BURGUNDY 2018 VINTAGE, EN PRIMEUR
BURGUNDY
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2018 VINTAGE
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CHABLIS
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
THE C&B BURGUNDY FAMILY
CHABLIS 14 DOMAINE VINCENT DAMPT 15
CÔTE DE NUITS 18 GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 19 DOMAINE TRAPET 19 DOMAINE ROSSIGNOL-TRAPET 20 DOMAINE DES VAROILLES 24 DOMAINE JOSEPH ROTY 25 MOREY-SAINT-DENIS 26 CLOS DE TART 26 DOMAINE PERROT-MINOT 27 CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 28 DOMAINE COMTE GEORGES DE VOGÜÉ 28 VOUGEOT 29 CHÂTEAU DE LA TOUR 29 VOSNE-ROMANÉE 30 DOMAINE DE LA ROMANÉE-CONTI 31 DOMAINE ARNOUX-LACHAUX 32 NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 34 DOMAINE DE L’ARLOT 34 DOMAINE GILLES JOURDAN 38
VOLNAY 44 DOMAINE MARQUIS D’ANGERVILLE 44 DOMAINE MICHEL LAFARGE 46 DOMAINE GEORGES GLANTENAY 50 MEURSAULT 52 DOMAINE JACQUES PRIEUR 53 DOMAINE PIERRE MOREY 53 DOMAINE PATRICK JAVILLIER 54 DOMAINE MATROT 56 DOMAINE HENRI DARNAT 58 PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 60 DOMAINE LEFLAIVE 60 DOMAINE FRANÇOIS CARILLON 61 OLIVIER LEFLAIVE 62 SAINT-AUBIN 64 DOMAINE HUBERT LAMY 64 SANTENAY 68 DOMAINE JUSTIN GIRARDIN 68
CÔTE CHALONNAISE 70 BOUZERON 72 DOMAINE DE VILLAINE 72
BEAUNE 42 DOMAINE PIERRE LABET 42
MÂCONNAIS 74 DOMAINES LEFLAIVE 75 BEAUJOLAIS 76 FLEURIE, CHIROUBLES & BROUILLY 78 DOMAINE LAFARGE VIAL 78
POMMARD 43 DOMAINE CYROT-BUTHIAU 43
MOULIN-À-VENT 80 DOMAINE LABRUYÈRE 80
CÔTE DE BEAUNE 40 CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE & CORTON 41 DOMAINE BONNEAU DU MARTRAY 41
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BURGUNDY
4
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2018 VINTAGE
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
WELCOME ‌to our 2018 Burgundy release. An exciting time of year, coming hot on the heels of Christmas festivities and reminding us that even in these dark winter months, there is an abundance of vinous enjoyment to be planned. If you have rashly committed to dry January and are in need of some vicarious enjoyment, read on – this is a wonderful vintage, one of light and warmth, which we will get to know and no doubt love over the years to come.
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BURGUNDY
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2018 VINTAGE
VINTAGE OVERVIEW “The 2018 weather was perfect. The vines were splendid, with healthy foliage, no water stress and beautiful grapes.” Frédéric Lafarge, Domaine Michel Lafarge
Following a parched 2017 summer, autumn was very wet. As Olivier Lamy said, “it rained almost one day in two – we had our feet in water!” Unsurprisingly, this fully replenished the soil water reserves. January 2018 was mild; winter ‘proper’ started late, culminating in a cold snap in February.
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Spring: The cool weather lasted until late March, meaning vine growth was slow. Early April sunshine finally ushered in spring and budbreak. Mid-April onwards was dry and increasingly warm, heralding a surge in vine growth. Very little frost damage, phew! Early May has become the danger zone for this (2016 and 2017 were badly hit) but 2018 largely escaped unscathed. However, the mildew pressure caused by warm, moist weather demanded vigilance and anti-fungal sprays (many of which are now organic, thankfully). Hail in Puligny- and Chassagne-Montrachet on 8th May fortunately did little damage. This was followed by several late spring thunderstorms. The first flowers appeared in mid-May on the Chardonnay. By month-end, flowering was already well underway. It generally went smoothly, although Géraldine Godot at Domaine de l’Arlot remarked on “some blossom drop in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits area”, due to rain. Summer: Just after the grape bunches closed, two violent localised hailstorms struck southern NuitsSaint-Georges, on 3rd and 15th July. Affected growers include Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux, Domaine de l’Arlot
and Domaine Gilles Jourdan. The latter two were hit hard sadly, although Gilles’ wonderful monopole, La Robignotte, fortunately escaped. Véraison (colour change) started in early July and lasted for nearly six weeks in places where temperatures were unusually high or water scarce, such as the Mâconnais and Chablis. From this point onwards, the character of the vintage began to reveal itself… 2018 was sunny: Depending on where the readings were taken, summer saw between 150 and 260 more sunshine hours than average. 2018 was warm: Temperatures were almost 2°C above average – warm but not scorching. The winter and spring water reserves tempered this, although younger vines with shallower roots suffered. 2018 was dry: August had just 20-30mm of rainfall, versus an average of 60mm. This made for thick skins and many small millerand berries, ensuring 2018 would be rich in polyphenols. April to September saw 285mm of rain, versus an average of 403mm. 2018 was (mostly) early: Potential alcohol levels were approaching desired levels by late August, but conditions were so good that some waited for greater phenolic maturity. As Vincent Dampt put it, “the crucial question was when to attack”. Some light rain and morning dews in early September loosened any lingering blockages in maturity.
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
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BURGUNDY
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2018 VINTAGE
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For most, harvest took place in the first week of September, although some started in August, such as Domaine Matrot (24th – the earliest ever here), Domaine Leflaive (26th), Domaine Javillier (30th) and Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé (30th). Monday 3rd September was busy, Domaine Vincent Dampt (Chablis), Domaine Rossignol-Trapet (Gevrey) and Domaine Justin Girardin (Santenay) all starting on this day. For the high-acidity Aligoté grape, there was clearly no rush: Domaine Lafarge’s Aligoté Raisins Dorés came in between the 22nd and 24th September. At Domaine Gilles Jourdan, the hail in July slowed down growth, meaning Gilles’ harvest did not start until 25th September.
2018 was healthy: Many growers, such as Volnay’s Guillaume d’Angerville, commented that there was barely any need for grape selection on the sorting tables. The health of the berries meant that anything sub-standard could quite easily be eliminated in the vineyard. This encouraged Domaine Rossignol-Trapet to retain 50-60% whole clusters, whilst Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux used 100% almost across the board (the only exceptions being the hail-affected parcels in Nuits-Saint-Georges). Perhaps the best example of the health of the season is that, just for fun, Domaine Pierre Morey made a late harvest (sweet) Chardonnay from its Bourgogne Blanc parcels, picked on 25th October with no botrytis!
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
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BOURGOGNE
A word on acidity: We assume warmer vintages will be lower in acidity. While this is true to an extent, it is not the whole picture. The heat of August did burn off some precious malic acid, especially where leaf cover was sparse. However, the spring rains had brought reserves of tartaric acid. The best 2018s also have a mineral tension which brings its own freshness to the party. Olivier Lamy also pointed out that white Chardonnay skins absorb less UV radiation than black Pinot Noir ones. The wines: The whites are juicy and, for the most part, with excellent definition and freshness. The reds are beautifully, richly pigmented, with expressive red
berry aromas and succulent mid-palates, without the excesses of fruit density seen in more prosaically “warm vintages�. 2018 is a beguiling meeting of ripeness and precision, which deserves a place in every Burgundy collection.
GUY SEDDON January 2020
BURGUNDY
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2018 VINTAGE
WINES OFFERED IN THIS RELEASE CHABLIS
See Page
Case size
£/Offer IB price per case
DOMAINE VINCENT DAMPT Chablis
16
12
£145
Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons
16
12
£225
Chablis 1er Cru Les Lys
16
12
£225
Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet
17
12
£225
Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet '350'
17
12
£310
Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
20
12
£355
Beaune 1er Cru Les Teurons
20
12
£395
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Prieur
20
12
£740
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Petite Chapelle
20
12
£740
Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
22
6
£745
Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru
22
6
£745
Chambertin Grand Cru
22
6
£1150
Gevrey-Chambertin Clos du Meix des Ouches Monopole
24
6
£255
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Champonnet
24
6
£310
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru La Romanée Monopole
24
6
£365
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos des Varoilles Monopole
24
6
£350
Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
24
6
£545
Nuits-Saint-Georges Blanc La Gerbotte
36
6
£235
Nuits-Saint-Georges Blanc 1er Cru Clos de l'Arlot Monopole
36
6
£425
Côte de Nuits-Villages Clos du Chapeau
36
6
£165
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Cuvée Mont des Oiseaux
36
6
£310
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos de L’Arlot Monopole
36
6
£395
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos des Forêts Saint-Georges Monopole
37
6
£410
Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots
37
6
£595
CÔTE DE NUITS DOMAINE ROSSIGNOL-TRAPET
10
DOMAINE DES VAROILLES
DOMAINE DE L'ARLOT
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CÔTE DE NUITS continued...
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
See Page
Case size
£/Offer IB price per case
DOMAINE GILLES JOURDAN Bourgogne Chardonnay
39
12
£160
Côte de Nuits-Villages Blanc
39
12
£230
Bourgogne Côte d’Or Vieilles Vignes
39
12
£165
Côte de Nuits-Villages
39
12
£230
Côte de Nuits-Villages La Robignotte Monopole
39
12
£275
Bourgogne Pinot Noir
43
12
£120
Maranges 1er Cru Les Clos Roussots
43
12
£225
Volnay
43
12
£295
Pommard
43
12
£295
Pommard 1er Cru Les Arvelets
43
12
£445
CÔTE DE BEAUNE DOMAINE CYROT-BUTHIAU
11
DOMAINE MICHEL LAFARGE Bourgogne Aligoté Raisins Dorés
46
6
£85
Meursault
46
6
£195
Meursault Vendanges Sélectionnées
46
6
£215
Beaune Blanc 1er Cru Clos des Aigrots
47
6
£300
Bourgogne Passetoutgrain L'Exception
47
6
£85
Bourgogne Passetoutgrain L’Exception Anthologie Magnum
47
3
£100
Bourgogne Pinot Noir
47
6
£100
Côte de Beaune-Village
47
6
£145
Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Aigrots
48
6
£295
Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves
48
6
£335
Pommard Les Pézerolles
48
6
£510
Volnay
48
6
£220
Volnay Vendanges Sélectionnées
49
6
£245
Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans
49
6
£515
Volnay 1er Cru Les Pitures Magnum
49
3
£515
Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets
49
6
£510
Volnay 1er Cru Clos Des Chênes
49
6
£560
Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Château des Ducs
49
6
£590
BURGUNDY
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2018 VINTAGE
WINES OFFERED IN THIS RELEASE CÔTE DE BEAUNE continued...
See Page
Case size
£/Offer IB price per case
DOMAINE GLANTENAY Monthelie Blanc 1er Cru Les Champs Fulliot
51
6
£230
Volnay
51
6
£160
Volnay 1er Cru Le Ronceret
51
6
£265
Volnay 1er Cru Les Brouillards
51
6
£280
Pommard
51
6
£205
Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens Hauts
51
6
£415
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes
51
6
£645
Bourgogne Côte d’Or Cuvée des Forgets
54
6
£95
Bourgogne Côte d’Or Cuvée Oligocène
54
6
£125
Meursault Les Tillets
55
6
£235
Meursault Les Clousots
55
6
£275
Meursault Cuvée Tête de Murger
55
6
£365
Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Serpentières
55
6
£170
Saint-Romain
56
12
£250
Meursault 1er Cru Blagny
56
12
£575
Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes
56
12
£625
Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières
56
12
£775
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes
56
12
£775
Maranges 1er Cru La Fussière
57
12
£250
Auxey-Duresses
57
12
£265
Meursault Rouge
57
12
£275
Blagny 1er Cru La Pièce sous le Bois
57
12
£525
Meursault Clos du Domaine
58
12
£315
Meursault 1 Cru Clos Richemont Monopole
58
12
£515
Montagny 1er Cru Bonneveaux
62
12
£230
Pernand-Vergelesses
62
6
£142
Chassagne-Montrachet Les Blanchots
62
6
£236
Puligny-Montrachet Les Meix
62
6
£278
Pernand-Vergelesses Rouge 1 Cru Fichots
63
6
£170
Pommard
63
6
£275
DOMAINE PATRICK JAVILLIER
DOMAINE MATROT 12
DOMAINE HENRI DARNAT er
OLIVIER LEFLAIVE
er
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
See Page
Case size
£/Offer IB price per case
DOMAINE HUBERT LAMY Saint-Aubin La Princée
66
6
£170
Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière chez Édouard
66
6
£225
Saint-Aubin 1er Cru en Rémilly
66
6
£295
Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge La Goujonne Vieilles Vignes
66
6
£195
Santenay 1er Cru Beauregard
69
6
£140
Santenay 1er Cru La Maladière
69
6
£130
Santenay 1er Cru Clos Rousseau
69
6
£130
Pommard
69
6
£190
Bouzeron Bourgogne Aligoté
73
12
£215
Rully Les Saint-Jacques
73
12
£240
Rully 1er Cru Montpalais (2017)
73
12
£395
Rully 1er Cru Grésigny (2017)
73
12
£395
Rully 1er Cru Les Margotés (2017)
73
12
£395
Mercurey Les Montots
73
6
£145
Mâcon-Verzé
75
12
£275
Mâcon-Verzé Les Chênes
75
12
£310
Mâcon-Verzé Le Monté
75
12
£320
Mâcon-Igé
75
12
£275
Chiroubles
79
12
£250
Fleurie
79
12
£260
Fleurie Joie du Palais
79
12
£275
Fleurie Clos Vernay
79
12
£290
Côte de Brouilly
79
12
£290
DOMAINE JUSTIN GIRARDIN
CÔTE CHALONNAISE DOMAINE DE VILLAINE
MÂCONNAIS DOMAINES LEFLAIVE
BEAUJOLAIS DOMAINE LAFARGE VIAL
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BURGUNDY
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2018 VINTAGE
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CHABLIS Located some 100 miles north of the Côte d’Or, Chablis sits apart from the rest of Burgundy, separated from the Côte d’Or by the Morvan Mountains. Geologically, it shares characteristics with the Loire and Champagne.
N
YONNE Chablis Auxerre
DOMAINE VINCENT DAMPT
CHABLIS & AUXERRE YONNE CÔTE D’ OR Chablis
14
Tonnerre
Auxerre
Historically, the region benefited from its proximity to Paris and being able to transport these popular wines by river to the capital. The advent of the railways had the opposite effect as more regions, with cheaper wines, became accessible.
Tonnerre
DOMAINE VINCENT DAMPT CÔTE DE NUITS
Nuits-Saint-Georges
CHABLIS & AUXERRE
CÔTE DE BEAUNE Beaune
CÔTE D’ OR
RN74
Dijon
A6
CÔTE CHALONNAISE
Châlon-sur-Saône
Nuits-Saint-Georges Saône-et-Loire
CÔTE DE NUITS
CÔTE DE BEAUNE Beaune
MÂCONNAIS
A6
Mâcon
CÔTE CHALONNAISE
Châlon-sur-Saône
Beaujeu Saône-et-Loire
BEAUJOLAIS
Today, being so far north, the main adversary is the climate, yet it is in fact this marginal location, along with the famous fossil-rich soils, which lie at the heart of Chablis’ quintessential flinty mineral style.
RN74
Dijon
A6
Villefranche-sur-Saône 0
50 km
MÂCONNAIS
GRANDS CRUS, PREMIERS CRUS, VILLAGES
A6
Mâcon
LYON
Beaujeu
BEAUJOLAIS Villefranche-sur-Saône 0
50 km
GRANDS CRUS, PREMIERS CRUS, VILLAGES
LYON
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
DOMAINE VINCENT DAMPT These 2018s are Vincent Dampt’s fourteenth vintage. We have represented the domaine as exclusive UK agent since Vincent established it, in the 2005 vintage. Chablis’ famous Kimmeridgian soils consist of calcareous clay, limestone and marlstone, with embedded marine fossils. Many attribute Chablis’ hallmark minerality to this link with the sea. The village and premiers crus bottlings see no oak, with the exception of 1er Cru Côte de Léchet ‘350’, named after the 350 litre barrels in which the wine is aged. Half of the barrels come from the François Frères cooperage and half from Seguin Moreau. Vincent’s wines will drink early but also repay cellaring brilliantly, with age becoming more silky in texture, with a caramelised, golden edge to the fruit.
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VINCENT DAMPT
BURGUNDY
DOMAINE VINCENT DAMPT CONTINUED... CHABLIS This was the first wine we tasted at this domaine, on our very first visit of the 2005 vintage. A glimmer of hope of a new relationship dramatically lit up the faces of the assembled tasters. We left with a new exclusivity. Since then, if anything, the wines have simply gone from strength to strength and this 2018 vintage is exemplary, a tremendous ambassador for the region and for the domaine. The nose and palate show effortless poise, a balance of ripe orchard and stone fruit, fine acidity and seashell minerality – so lovely. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2026 £145/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
CHABLIS 1ER CRU VAILLONS
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Vaillons is known for its generous fruit, power and poise, due to its favourable south-eastern aspect, as well as its Kimmeridgian soils. The vineyard lies southwest of Chablis, to the west of the Serein river. Vincent’s parcel is particularly rich in clay, with vines averaging over 35 years old. Pale white-gold, this is rounded and opulent, rich and ripe, with a profusion of orchard fruit, buttered, honeyed toast and compote of apples. This has a tension and an elegance, with a long, layered, floral finish. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2026 £225/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
CHABLIS 1ER CRU LES LYS Les Lys is a small climat within Vaillons, planted around 60 years ago by Vincent’s grandfather. It faces northeast, towards the grands crus across the valley. Yields are very low and, with less afternoon sunlight, the grapes take longer to ripen. Often more reticent than Les Vaillons, this 2018 bucks the trend with an ebullient nose of rich apple compote, lemon drizzle cake and cream. A complex wine, with an even greater depth to come, combining underlying richness with a bracing mineral reserve. Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2019-2025 £225/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
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2018 VINTAGE
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
CHABLIS 1ER CRU CÔTE DE LÉCHET This is a special site, again on the western side of the Serein river, just above the village of Milly. With its 38% gradient and 40 year old vines, the yields here are small. Exposure to morning sunshine allows the vines to benefit from luminosity, rather than heat, making for heightened mineral precision. This presents a very fine, noble nose of orchard fruits, white-fleshed stone fruits and melon, complemented by flashes of citrus zest and a taut mineral focus. Driven and focused, it is nonetheless a perfect charmer – bring on the seafood. Corney & Barrow Score 18+ Recommended drinking from 2019 – 2026 £225/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
CHABLIS 1ER CRU CÔTE DE LÉCHET ‘350’ A selection from the best vines of this vineyard, planted in 1964 by Vincent’s grandfather. Just as he separates Les Lys from the rest of Vaillons, of which it forms part, Vincent recognises that there are certain site-specific attributes here to be celebrated. Vincent produces two 350 litre barrels of this wine. Côte de Léchet’s precision and focus is retained, within a more exotic frame. Green apples and pears have given way to pineapple, papaya and melon, Danish pastries and vanilla – quite hedonistic, yet that Côte de Léchet focus prevails. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2019 – 2026 £310/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
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BURGUNDY
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2018 VINTAGE
CÔTE DE NUITS N
The Côte de Nuits forms the northern half of the Côte d’Or, running from the outskirts of Dijon to the villages of Prémeaux and Corgoloin, south of NuitsSaint-Georges.
To Dijon
MARSANNAY-LA-CÔTE
MARSANNAY COUCHEY FIXIN
RN74
BROCHON
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The region is around 20 kilometres long and between 200 and 800 metres wide. It covers 3,600 hectares. Driving south from Dijon, looking to the right, you will see slopes adorned with vineyards, broken up periodically by barren, rocky outcrops. Brilliant green in summer, intense gold in autumn and starkly barren in winter.
DOMAINE JOSEPH ROTY DOMAINE TRAPET GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN DOMAINE DES VAROILLES
MOREY-SAINT-DENIS CLOS DE TART DOMAINE PERROT-MINOT DOMAINE COMTE GEORGES DE VOGÜÉ CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY
CHÂTEAU DE LA TOUR
VOUGEOT
FLAGEY-ÉCHÉZEAUX DOMAINE DE LA ROMANÉE-CONTI VOSNE-ROMANÉE DOMAINE ARNOUX-LACHAUX RN74
CHAUX
The Côte de Nuits, with few exceptions, is red wine country. It is, quite simply, home to some of the greatest Pinot Noirs in the world.
DOMAINE ROSSIGNOL-TRAPET
NUITS-SAINT GEORGES DOMAINE DE L’ARLOT
VILLERS-LA-FAYE
PRÉMEAUX
COMBLANCHIEN MAGNY-LES-VILLERS CORGOLOIN DOMAINE GILLES JOURDAN To Beaune
0
1 km
GRANDS CRUS, PREMIERS CRUS, VILLAG
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN Gevrey-Chambertin is a large commune comprising 410 hectares, stretching from Brochon in the north, to Morey-Saint-Denis in the south. A mix of terroirs, with patches of limestone contributing to the complexity of the best Gevreys and to the great variety of styles. Only red wines may be labelled Gevrey-Chambertin.
DOMAINE TRAPET Jean-Louis Trapet is a cousin of the Rossignols, of Domaine Rossignol-Trapet. The domaines are a stone’s 19 throw from one another. Following the union by marriage of the Rossignols and the Trapets, the Trapet holdings were split, as related on page 20. The domaine is biodynamic and practises partial destemming. Jean-Louis, the seventh winemaking generation, is married to Andrée, from Alsace. They now split their time between Alsace and GevreyChambertin, also running Andrée’s family domaine in Alsace, Domaine Trapet Alsace, along with their sons Pierre and Louis. Corney & Barrow is the exclusive UK agent for Domaine Trapet. The 2018 vintage will be released as a standalone offer.
GES
DOMAINE TRAPET
BURGUNDY
DOMAINE ROSSIGNOL-TRAPET The Rossignols of Volnay were linked by marriage to the Trapet family when Jacques Rossignol married JeanLouis Trapet’s aunt, Mado. The original Trapet holdings were split when the sons of both families – David and Nicolas Rossignol and Jean-Louis Trapet – returned from their studies. Domaine Rossignol-Trapet was established in 1990. In 2005, Nicolas and David began the conversion to biodynamic viticulture. The wines of today are imbued with a greater purity and concentration and the vines themselves are healthier and stronger. The vineyards were officially certified organic and biodynamic in 2008. These are classical Gevreys, approachable relatively early, especially suited to the lovely ripe fruit of 2018, with admirable ageing potential. The cellar, which is partly subterranean, was built in 1983. A row of lights around the cellar walls indicate ground level. The water table lies almost immediately beneath the cellar, perhaps explaining the 95% humidity level.
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The domaine does not rack the wines off their fine lees after the malolactic conversion, which is always finished by the end of November. The proportions of new oak are around 25% for the premiers crus and 40-50% for the grands crus. Barrels, from François Frères, Rousseau and Chassin, are given a medium-long toast and dried for 36 months. Nicholas does less and less punching down, indeed there was none at all in 2018, preferring to extract as gently as possible.
BEAUNE 1ER CRU LES TEURONS
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2018 VINTAGE
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN VIEILLES VIGNES This is a selection from just over five hectares of 4585 year old vines, planted in eight different parcels, on light gravelly soils. 50% whole bunch vinified in 2018, conferring a really attractive sappy lift to the aromas and a fresh zip to the brightly-fruited palate. Raspberry, red cherry and blackberry, with a spicy, exotic edge. 15% new oak. This is the domaine’s highest production cuvée: around 20,000 bottles per year are made. Excellent wine. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2030 £355/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CLOS PRIEUR This comes from a 0.25 hectare plot planted in 1986, just down the slope and across the road from MazisChambertin. Really pretty rose petal perfume here, elegantly red berried. Firm, finely detailed tannins add to the sensation of finesse, bringing the finish to a precise point. Around a half whole bunch vinification was used. This is an over-performer in 2018, really good. Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2034+ £740/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU PETITE CHAPELLE
This 1.2 hectare plot, planted in 1978, is on the high part of Teurons, a well-sited parcel close to the woods, next to Aux Cras. A stony, iron-rich red soil, with a cliff on the western side of the slope, which reflects the sun and along with the trees, serves to protect the vines, makes for early ripening. Black pepper spice and with a briny seam, this is a very linear wine, with fine, fruit-coated tannins. Ferrous and salty on the finish, good traditional fare. 15% new oak, with 50% whole bunch vinification.
Petite Chapelle has a 1.5m deep layer of top-soil and, in Nicolas’ words, is “full of clay”. This is a 0.5 hectare holding, from which ten barrels have been made in 2018. Darker-berried than Clos Prieur, with more violet perfume and wonderfully ripe, supple tannins and a little peppery spice. Around a half whole bunch vinification and a quarter new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 16.5-17 Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2030
£740/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5-18+ Recommended drinking from 2025 – 2040
£395/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
“2018: ample and energetic” Nicolas Rossignol, October 2019
NICOLAS ROSSIGNOL
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
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DOMAINE ROSSIGNOL-TRAPET
BURGUNDY
DOMAINE ROSSIGNOL-TRAPET CONTINUED... LATRICIÈRES-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU Latricières tends to be the most aromatically expressive of the grands crus when tasted young, perhaps due to its breezier, less protected aspect. One parcel here dates from the 1930s and another was planted after the 1956 frost. As so often, this is elegantly perfumed, violets and crushed rose petals, with dark rocky minerality. The palate is insinuatingly fine, the tannins lattice-like, with a stony energy running through to a long finish. Beautiful wine. 40-50% whole bunch vinified in 2018. Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2037 £745/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
CHAPELLE-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU
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The domaine’s Chapelle-Chambertin comes from two parcels – En la Chapelle (planted in the 1960s) and Les Gémeaux (planted in 1924). Both are warm sites, directly below Clos de Bèze, with a mere 50 centimetres of soil above the rock. It is slightly earlier-ripening than the other grands crus. The soil consists of layers of rocks, with holes into which the roots can penetrate. This was just under 50% whole-bunch vinified in 2018. Toastier and riper than Latricières on the nose, with sweet and exotic spices – clove and tea leaf. The palate is fleshy and more shaped by the 2018 warmth. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5-18 Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2038 £745/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU This comes from two parcels in the centre of Le Chambertin, imaginatively referred to as ‘north’ (a third) and ‘south’ (two thirds), at around 300 metres of altitude. The soil here is a metre deep. Powerful and expansive on the nose, this is no shrinking violet. The ripe blackberry fruit is kept in check incredibly well, allowing a fine seam of crushed rock minerality to emerge. The palate is sweetly fruited, with just enough sappy tension to give a sense of lift and elegance which works so well with the innate power of this superlative vineyard. This saw a half whole bunch vinification in 2018. Corney & Barrow Score 18+ Recommended drinking from 2027 – 2047+ £1,150/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
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2018 VINTAGE
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
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DOMAINE ROSSIGNOL-TRAPET
BURGUNDY | 2018 BURGUNDY | 2018 VINTAGE
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DOMAINE DES VAROILLES
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU LA ROMANÉE MONOPOLE
Domaine des Varoilles combines a number of spectacular vineyards from village to grand cru level. The arrival of Gilbert Hammel in 1990 marked a turning point for the domaine. Gilbert, of Swiss descent, has made Domaine des Varoilles a go-to producer of a succulent, rounded and supremely approachable style of Gevrey-Chambertin. The Varoilles holdings include two very special premiers crus monopoles, La Romanée and Clos des Varoilles.
This, the highest of the domaine’s vineyards, just above the Clos des Varoilles, comprises one hectare of vines, with an average age of over 60 years. The soil is very shallow here – just 50cm – over a gravel and limestone bedrock, naturally low-yielding. As darkly-fruited as usual, this is redolent of winter berries and has a driving power, length and an elegant briny finish. 20% new oak in 2018.
The 2018 harvest here started on 8th September, finishing on the 16th. Gilbert Hammel commented, “The sanitary state was perfect and the potential alcohol excellent, which allowed us to vinify the wines in optimal conditions.”
Corney & Barrow Score 17+ Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2032
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN CLOS DU MEIX DES OUCHES, MONOPOLE
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CLOS DES VAROILLES MONOPOLE
This small parcel, just one hectare of ‘village’ wine, is a monopole, solely owned by the domaine. The soil here resembles 1er Cru Champonnet, its neighbour, from which it is separated by a narrow road. Bright, dark fruits of the forest and a lovely dense structure, without being overbearing. Finishes briny and precise. There is 10% new oak here, as usual.
Just down the slope from La Romanée and neighbouring Lavaux St-Jacques, this six hectare vineyard of 45-50 year old vines produces a more red-fruited, aromatic style of wine. Upliftingly, ripely red-berried, with a backbone of crisp acidity, all framed by firmly sculpted tannins. The richness of the vintage really works here – as good as we had hoped. 25% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 16.5-17 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2026+
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2034+
£255/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£350/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CHAMPONNET
CHARMES-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU
This is a 0.7 hectare plot which is even more stony than neighbouring Clos du Meix des Ouches. Tender and supple, this is brightly, sweetly fruited, showing dark berries and a nicely sculpted tannic chassis. There is 15% new oak here. Good wine, good value.
The domaine’s holding in Charmes is a single 0.8 hectare parcel, opposite Latricières-Chambertin, on a gentle slope. This delivers the upfront pleasure of Charmes, the dense blackberry fruit showing itself to excellent effect against the palate’s firm tannic chassis. A wine with long cellaring potential, although the loveliness of the fruit surely means this will drink early enough to satisfy the impatient. 50% new oak, from the Rousseau cooperage.
Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2029 £310/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£365/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2027 – 2037+ £545/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
DOMAINE JOSEPH ROTY Domaine Roty releases its wines once in bottle, so our upcoming standalone offer will be of the 2017 vintage. This is a tiny estate in the heart of Gevrey-Chambertin whose hallmark is elegance, richness and underlying, understated power. These wines fly under the radar – surprising considering how good they are! The late Joseph Roty was succeeded by his son Philippe in 2008. Philippe himself died in 2015, aged just 46. His younger brother Pierre-Jean is now firmly in charge of the domaine, backed up by the rest of the Roty family, including his sister Patricia and their mother. We tasted the 2017s with Pierre-Jean, his third vintage fully at the helm.
PIEERE-JEAN ROTY
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GILBERT HAMMEL AND HARVESTERS, DOMAINE DES VAROILLES
BURGUNDY
MOREY-SAINT-DENIS After Vougeot, Morey-Saint-Denis is the smallest village of the Côte de Nuits, with just 150 hectares of vines. Perhaps less well known than its neighbours, GevreyChambertin to the north and Chambolle-Musigny to the south, it displays some of the power of Gevrey, as well as a kinship with Bonnes-Mares, which starts just beyond the southern wall of Clos de Tart. The grands crus here are Clos des Lambrays, Clos de la Roche, Clos Saint-Denis and Clos de Tart. The abundance of walled vineyards echoes the self-contained nature of this alluring but enigmatic village.
CLOS DE TART The walled vineyard of Clos de Tart is situated at the very heart of Morey-Saint-Denis, one of four grands crus within the village and, under sole ownership, a monopole. Its sloping 7.53 hectares overlook the village. Created in 1141, Clos de Tart was owned by the Bernardines de Tart (an order of Cistercian nuns), the Marey-Monge family (post-French Revolution) and then the Mommessin family from 1932. At the end of 2017, the Clos was sold to François Pinault.
26 Monsieur Pinault’s company, Artemis, also owns
Vosne-Romanée’s Domaine Eugénie, Château Latour in Bordeaux, Château Grillet in the Rhône and Eisele Vineyard in Napa. Alessandro Noli, previously of Château Grillet, became the new Régisseur in March 2019. Clos de Tart is one of only seven grands crus monopoles in France, five of which are in Burgundy (the other Burgundian vineyards being Romanée-Conti, La Tâche, La Romanée and La Grande Rue). Corney & Barrow is Clos de Tart’s exclusive UK agent. The 2018 vintage will be released in April 2020.
ALESSANRDO NOLI, CLOS DE TART
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2018 VINTAGE
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
DOMAINE PERROT-MINOT We have worked with Christophe Perrot-Minot since the 2016 vintage, making this our third vintage release. The domaine is based in Morey-Saint-Denis, although Christophe’s offering also includes Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanée and Nuits-SaintGeorges. The estate, which covers 12.5 hectares, is an amalgam of two sources. The original holdings, inherited from Christophe’s maternal grandfather, were bolstered significantly by the acquisition of Domaine Pernin-Rossin in 2000. In addition, the grands crus of Chambertin, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze and Chapelle-Chambertin are made from purchased grapes, without the word ‘Domaine’ on the label. According to Christophe, the Perrot-Minot style reached a crossroads in 2001, with the 2005 and 2006 vintages onwards being made very much in the current vein of elegance and finesse. The domaine has worked organically for years, with certification expected in 2022. The domaine’s holdings stretch from Gevrey-Chambertin in the north, to Nuits-Saint-Georges in the south. These fabulous wines, which are now firmly on the radar of 27 Burgundy collectors the world over, will be released as a separate offer.
CHRISTOPHE PERROT-MINOT MOREY-SAINT-DENIS
BURGUNDY
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2018 VINTAGE CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY The village of Chambolle-Musigny, its back to the limestone cliff faces, feels isolated from the rest of the Côte. Its wines are an amalgam of soaring perfume and tannic structure: Chambolle at its best reconciles the ephemeral and the earthly. Its two grands crus are Musigny and Bonnes-Mares, at the southern and northern extremes of the village respectively. The principal premier cru – which many believe to be of grand cru calibre – is Les Amoureuses.
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DOMAINE COMTE GEORGES DE VOGÜÉ
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé is the largest holder of the Musigny vineyard by some distance, owning 7.12 hectares of the total 10.85. De Vogüé is a producer of reference in Chambolle-Musigny, making a weightless yet flavour-packed style. Established in 1450, the current owners are Claire de Causans and Marie de Ladoucette. comprises the poetical François Millet director), Eric Bourgogne (vineyard manager) Luc Pépin (sales and marketing director).
Comtesse The team (technical and Jean-
The 2018s will be released in March 2020. Corney & Barrow is the exclusive UK agent of Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé.
JEAN-LUC PÉPIN & FRANÇOIS MILLET
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
VOUGEOT Located in the village of Vougeot, the Clos de Vougeot is a historically important 50 hectare plot, which is also home to the famous Château du Clos de Vougeot. The Clos is bestowed with grand cru status in its entirety. Beneath this rather broad-brush approach to classification lie nuances of quality, meaning here even more than elsewhere in Burgundy, ‘grower is everything’.
FRANÇOIS AND EDOUARD LABET
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CHÂTEAU DE LA TOUR
Château de la Tour, established in 1890, is the largest proprietor of the Clos de Vougeot. Family owned, it boasts six hectares of vines, some 12% of the appellation. The vines are in two parcels, close to the château building, which is one of only three buildings in the Clos de Vougeot. Average vine age is 50 years. Château de la Tour is run by François Labet, who, as of last year, has been joined by his son Edouard. Corney & Barrow is the exclusive agent for Château de la Tour in the UK and Singapore. The wines were released in December. Click here to see the offer.
EDOUARD LABET
BURGUNDY
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2018 VINTAGE
VOSNE-ROMANÉE The most prestigious address in the Côte de Nuits? La Romanée-Conti is the bull’s-eye of this charmed village, with a gaggle of grand cru vineyards clustered around it, including La Tâche, Les Gaudichots, La Grande Rue, La Romanée, Les Richebourgs and Romanée-Saint-Vivant. The adjacent commune of Flagey-Échezeaux houses the Échezeaux vineyards before giving way to Clos de Vougeot to the north.
THE DOMAINE
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AUBERT DE VILLAINE
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
DOMAINE DE LA ROMANÉE-CONTI Located in the wonderfully named Rue du Temps Perdu, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti is part of the fabric of Burgundy. It is often referred to as simply “the Domaine”, the definite article sufficing for a property to which so many aspire. The Domaine’s co-directors were Aubert de Villaine and Henry-Frédéric Roch, until the latter’s death in November 2018. In January 2019, Perrine Fénal, daughter of Lalou Bize-Leroy, was appointed as co-director. All of the holdings are grands crus, although a premier cru is also released in certain years, made from voluntarily declassified grapes. Corney & Barrow has been the Domaine’s exclusive UK agent since 1991. Following the confiscation of the vineyards of the Prince de Conti during the French Revolution, the Domaine was acquired by Monsieur Duvault-Blochet in 1869. La Tâche was acquired in 1933. Romanée-Saint-Vivant was managed from 1966, being purchased outright in 1988. Domaine de la Romanée-Conti now owns in their entirety the vineyards of La Romanée-Conti and La Tâche, half of Richebourg, more than half of Romanée-Saint-Vivant, a third of Grands-Échézeaux and a seventh of Échézeaux.
TASTING IN THE BOTTLE CELLARS
At present, its only commercially produced white wine is Le Montrachet, but in 2018 it was announced that the Domaine had secured, from Domaine Bonneau du Martray, a long-term lease in Corton-Charlemagne. This will sit alongside the red Corton, which has been produced since the 2009 vintage, from three plots on which the Domaine also has a long-term lease. In addition, some Bâtard-Montrachet is produced for private use.
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The Domaine is totally biodynamic. When vines need replacing, cuttings are taken from a selection of vines within the Romanée-Conti vineyard. To minimise soil compaction, horses cultivate the vineyards of RomanéeConti and Le Montrachet. In the cellar, an average of 60% whole bunches is used, along with 100% new oak. There is no filtration and barely any fining. The two Échezeaux are generously fruited, whilst Romanée-SaintVivant has a trademark perfumed elegance. Richebourg is rich and dark-fruited and broadly structured. La Tâche has even greater depth of flavour and colour. RomanéeConti itself combines intensity and supreme elegance. The Domaine’s Montrachet is both extrovert and tense. In certain years, a young vine cuvée is made, VosneRomanée 1er Cru, Cuvée Duvault-Blochet. The wines of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti are released once bottled, meaning 2017 will be the next en primeur vintage release, in late January 2020. Due to very high levels of demand, these wines are on strict allocation.
LA ROMANÉE-CONTI
BURGUNDY
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2018 VINTAGE
DOMAINE ARNOUX-LACHAUX This domaine is going places. We were appointed exclusive UK agents in the 2016 vintage, making the 2018s our third annual release. Previously called Domaine Robert Arnoux, this familyowned estate was founded in 1858. Today, it is run by Charles Lachaux, the sixth generation, alongside his mother Florence Arnoux-Lachaux. Charles, the eldest son and a man of apparently limitless energy, joined the domaine in October 2011, taking over in both the vines and the cellar in 2015. Since then, he has shaken things up, totally overhauling the vineyard approach, most visibly by introducing the long arching vine canes, as practised by his neighbours Lalou BizeLeroy and Jean-Yves Bizot. The former has become something of a mentor to Charles. In the cellar, he is now approaching his desired level of 100% whole cluster fermentation across the board and uses diminishing quantities of new oak.
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CHARLES LACHAUX
Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux has 14.5 hectares of vines, all Pinot Noir, spread over six villages and 15 terroirs. These comprise four grands crus, five premiers crus, five villages and a regional wine, the excellent ‘Pinot Fin’. These are wines of perfume and elegance, soaringly pretty. The 2018 vintage will be released in March. In addition, Charles has this year started a new négociant project, called Charles Lachaux. We released the inaugural 2018 vintage in December. Click here to see the offer.
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
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VOSNE-ROMANÉE PREMIER CRU PICTURE CREDITS @DOMAINE_ARNOUX_LACHAUX
BURGUNDY
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES Nuits-Saint-Georges is the most southerly of the famous Côte de Nuits appellations. It is also the town from which the Côte de Nuits takes its name. As is the way in Burgundy, the town of Nuits appended the name of the best-known local vineyard, the premier cru Les SaintGeorges. Nuits-Saint-Georges has extremely varied soils and aspects, comprising a substantial 300 hectares of vines, 142 of which are premiers crus. This is an appellation without grands crus, perhaps surprisingly. Known for red wines, there are in fact seven hectares dedicated to white wine production.
DOMAINE DE L’ARLOT Domaine de l’Arlot is a fourteen hectare property in the commune of Prémeaux, just south of the town of NuitsSaint-Georges. It has been biodynamic since 2003. Technical Director Géraldine Godot has, over the past four vintages since she took over, established herself as an accomplished and detail-driven winemaker. Domaine de l’Arlot is in safe hands.
34 The domaine is owned by AXA Millésimes, the wine division of the insurance company, as part of a portfolio which also includes Quinta do Noval in the Douro and Bordeaux’s Pichon Baron, Petit-Village and Suduiraut.
The flagship here is Clos de l’Arlot, a wholly owned monopole adjacent to the domaine, planted with both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
2018 AT DOMAINE DE L’ARLOT, IN THE WORDS OF GÉRALDINE GODOT, TECHNICAL DIRECTOR After a very rainy winter and early spring, bud break arrived fast with the return of fine weather in midApril. Water reserves were significant and the high temperatures led to extremely rapid growth. This heralded early development. Flowering took place very quickly, starting on 28th May and ending on 2nd June. However, it occurred during a rainy two-week period and these poor conditions caused some blossom drop in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits area. Prémeaux-Prissey was struck by two large hailstorms on 3rd and 15th July. The vines were heavily impacted and dramatic mudflows left their mark. The season ended serenely, with a sunny August. Harvest lasted from 1st to 7th September, in excellent conditions.
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2018 VINTAGE
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
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© GERALDINE GODOT
BURGUNDY
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2018 VINTAGE
DOMAINE DE L’ARLOT CONTINUED... NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES BLANC LA GERBOTTE
CÔTE DE NUITS-VILLAGES CLOS DU CHAPEAU
This comes from the vines behind the domaine (beside the swimming pool!), planted in 1992 and 1993. It is a voluntarily declassified premier cru although it could form part of Clos de l’Arlot Blanc. Grown on white limestone, it is a refined, mineral driven wine. Fermented in barrel then aged in just under 20% new oak. Green citrus and white peach fruit, with crisp, taut acidity and a stony mineral texture. Waxy viscosity on the precise finish.
This comes from 1.5 hectares of vines in Comblanchien, on the plain. Savoury red berries on the nose, with herbaceous leafiness and a touch of peppery spice. The palate is nicely weighted, pure and mineral driven – no sense of the heaviness which might be expected from a warmer year. Forest fruits and confit raspberry, pretty and delicate. All destemmed this year. It was bottled in August 2019.
Corney & Barrow Score 16.5-17 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2025 £235/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
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Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2026 £165/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES BLANC 1ER CRU CLOS DE L’ARLOT MONOPOLE
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 1ER CRU MONT DES OISEAUX
There are two hectares of Chardonnay planted in Clos de l’Arlot. This is from grapes grown on the steeply sloping amphitheatre, a site which provides structure. Pink limestone, which contributes to this wine’s exuberant, broad, long-ageing character. The habitual 20% new oak adds further texture. More breadth and greater power than the young vines Gerbotte. Grapefruit, pineapple and apricot fruits contrast nicely with salty minerality, thanks to those complex limestone soils. Hints of Meursault here!
This plot is located inside Clos de l’Arlot, at the top of the slope. It is named after the little passageway at the top of the vineyard, from which you can hear birdsong. The vines are around 20 years old. Previously called Le Petit Arlot, it has now reached an age to be worthy of premier cru status. Tasted from barrel, as were all the reds. A savoury, pared-back nose, just biding its time. The medium bodied palate is once again measured and polite, poised.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2027 £425/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
Corney & Barrow Score 16.5-17 Recommended drinking from 2022-2031 £310/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 1ER CRU CLOS DE L’ARLOT MONOPOLE There are two hectares of Pinot Noir grapes here, alongside the two of white. Clos de l’Arlot is in Prémeaux, adjacent to Domaine Mugnier’s Clos de la Maréchale, both having prominent signage which you pass on the Route Nationale. There is much more density and sweetness of red berry fruit on the nose here. The palate has both an immediacy of pure raspberry fruit and a pliancy, an extra level of cushioning compared to the other wines. This is entirely destemmed in 2018 and is maturing in 40% new oak. Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2032+ £395/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 1ER CRU CLOS DES FORÊTS SAINT-GEORGES MONOPOLE Clos des Forêts Saint-Georges is a 7.2 hectare monopole, owned exclusively by Domaine de l’Arlot. The ‘SaintGeorges’ suffix was added in the 1930s, presumably to reinforce the link with Nuits-Saint-Georges – more deeply coloured and more immediately expressive, versus the more ephemeral style of Prémeaux. It has a lovely brightness and spicy character to the nose. The palate is sweetly fruited (raspberries and cream) with a fine grip from the mid-palate onwards. This is a substantially proportioned wine, “complete and complex” in Géraldine Godot’s words, which will repay cellaring. 45% new oak. All destemmed. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2025 – 2034+ £410/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
VOSNE-ROMANÉE 1ER CRU LES SUCHOTS The 40% whole cluster fermentation here has brought a spicy, sappy quality to the domaine’s 2018 Suchots, which works beautifully with the supple fine tannins and bright raspberry fruit. There is a sweetness of fruit here which is delightful. Sixteen barrels were made in 2018. Around a third new oak. Geographically this sits apart from the domaine’s other holdings, but what a wine! Géraldine Godot’s light touch works a treat here. Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2024-2034 £595/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
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BURGUNDY
DOMAINE GILLES JOURDAN Gilles Jourdan established his eponymous domaine in 1998, having looked after the family holdings since 1970, whilst making wine at Bichot in Beaune. The domaine’s cellar is located in the quiet village of Corgoloin, on the eastern side of the Route Nationale. There are just five hectares, including a monopole, La Robignotte, which is a blue marl slope, adjacent to the small track which winds its way up into the Hautes-Côtes. Gilles’ chai is tiny. A central garage-like space is crammed with bottling equipment and a small tasting table, with a bottle cellar to one side and a barrel cellar to the other. Gilles has 40 pickers to call upon at harvest. He tends to harvest later than his neighbours, as demanded by his older, low production vines.
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GILLES JOURDAN
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2018 VINTAGE
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THE 2018 VINTAGE AT DOMAINE GILLES JOURDAN As mentioned, the domaine’s holdings were sadly hit by the July hail, although La Robignotte, Gilles’ top wine and a perennial C&B favourite, fortunately escaped. Harvest here was late, 25th September, growth having been slowed down as a result of the hail. Average yields were a low 27hl/ha in the regional wines and a better 35hl/ha on the hillside villages crus, which were less affected.
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
CÔTE DE NUITS-VILLAGES This is a blend of three sites, making for a good overview of Gilles’ style. There is a pleasing sucrosity of fruit here, dense forest fruits, with a fresh backbone of acidity and a raspberried richness lingering on the finish. This speaks of the ripeness of the 2018 summer and will make a joyous earlier drinker. Corney & Barrow Score 16.5-17 Recommended drinking from 2021-2025 £230/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
The grapes were given a cool pre-fermentation maceration for the week of harvest.
BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY Gilles’ Bourgogne Chardonnay is an attractive meeting of ripe stone-fruit and fresh acidity, with a nicely textured mid-palate and a hint of flinty struck-match definition. At this price, it’s a no-brainer for straightforward early drinking. Corney & Barrow Score 16 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2022 £160/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
CÔTE DE NUITS-VILLAGES LA ROBIGNOTTE MONOPOLE Gilles Jourdan is the sole owner of this jewel-like 0.96 hectare holding of blue marl. His first vintage of this wine was 1999. There are two parcels here, one over 70 years old, the other over 40. Very happily, this was one of the few of the domaine’s holdings which was not hit by the hail. Firm tannins and a dense coating of fruit make for a powerful, age-worthy wine this year. Kirsch, dark forest fruits and grippy tannins. This is a longstanding C&B favourite and a wine which consistently punches above its level. 25% new oak. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2022-2030 £275/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
CÔTE DE NUITS-VILLAGES BLANC This is a young vineyard – just over a decade old – planted mid-slope on limestone, with a little clay in the mix. A year maturing in oak (around a third new) gives a touch of richness to the ripe white peach fruit. The most assertive vintage I have seen of this wine, impressive. Corney & Barrow Score 16+ Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2022 £230/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
BOURGOGNE CÔTE D’OR VIEILLES VIGNES This is the second vintage that this wine has been made under the new Côte d’Or appellation (it was previously called Bourgogne Pinot Noir). It comes from a 2.5 hectare parcel of around 70 year old vines and is 10% wholebunch vinified in 2018, with ageing in two year old barrels. Crunchy red berry fruit, with a nice precision and fruitcoated tannins. Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2024+ £165/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
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2018 VINTAGE
To Nuits-Saint-Georges
CÔTE DE BEAUNE
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The Côte de Beaune is almost twice the size of the Côte de Nuits, with around 6,000 hectares under vine. Whereas the Côte de Nuits is an elongated strip of eastfacing slopes, the gradient rising steeply into the hills above, the Côte de Beaune has several side valleys, making for a broader shape on a map opposite.
DOMAINE BONNEAU DU MARTRAY PERNAND-VERGELESSES LADOIX ALOXE-CORTON
SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE
CHOREYLÈS-BEAUNE
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DOMAINE PIERRE LABET BEAUNE
DOMAINE CYROT-BUTHIAU POMMARD DOMAINE MARQUIS D’ANGERVILLE SAINTROMAIN
VOLNAY DOMAINE LAFARGE
MONTHÉLIE
DOMAINE GLANTENAY
AUXEY-DURESSES
Travelling north to south, the Côte de Beaune starts just before the city of Beaune itself, in the shape of the iconic Hill of Corton. This southern region is the more rugged and picturesque half of the Côte d’Or. Whilst the Côte de Nuits encroaches on suburbia at its northern extreme and marble quarries in the south, the Côte de Beaune feels like proper countryside. The appellation covers both white and red wines.
DOMAINE PATRICK JAVILLIER DOMAINE JACQUES PRIEUR DOMAINE MATROT DOMAINE HENRI DARNAT MEURSAULT
DOMAINE PIERRE MOREY
DOMAINE FRANÇOIS CARILLON OLIVIER LEFLAIVE PULIGNY-MONTRACHET LA ROCHEPOT SAINT-AUBIN DOMAINE LEFLAIVE DOMAINE HUBERT LAMY
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CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET CORPEAU DOMAINE JUSTIN GIRARDIN DEZIZE-LÈSMARANGES
CHAGNY SANTENAY REMIGNY
SAMPIGNYLÈS-MARANGES CHEILLY-LÈS-MARANGES
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0
5 km
GRANDS CRUS, PREMIERS CRUS, VILLAGES
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE & CORTON Three villages lay claim to the Grand Cru CortonCharlemagne and Corton appellations: Aloxe-Corton, Ladoix-Serrigny and Pernand-Vergelesses. Corton-Charlemagne is a white wine appellation, half of which consists of the Le Charlemagne and En Charlemagne vineyards. Corton is a red wine appellation. Growers may attach the name of a specific lieu-dit (such as Corton-Bressandes or Corton Clos du Roi), or can make a generic Corton from a blend of vineyards.
DOMAINE BONNEAU DU MARTRAY Look at almost any image of the unmistakable hill of Corton and you will, essentially, be looking at the Bonneau du Martray estate. With 9.5 hectares in one 41 block, this is the largest single vineyard holding in the Pernand-Vergelesses village and is the same piece of land which was given to the Abbey of Saulieu by Emperor Charlemagne in 775. Having been owned by the Le Bault de la Morinière family, only the third owners in twelve centuries, the domaine was bought in January 2017 by Enos Stanley Kroenke, known for iconic California wines Screaming Eagle, Jonata and The Hilt, as well as Arsenal Football Club. In 2018, it was announced that a lease over part of the domaine’s holdings had been agreed with Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, meaning that both domaines will produce a Corton-Charlemagne from the 2018 vintage. Domaine Bonneau du Martray makes just two wines, both grand cru: Corton-Charlemagne (white) and Corton (red). Corney & Barrow is the exclusive UK agent for Domaine Bonneau du Martray. The domaine’s manager is Thibault Jacquet, pictured left. The 2018s will be released later this year.
THIBAULT JACQUET
BURGUNDY
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2018 VINTAGE
BEAUNE Beaune is a large appellation and, sharing its name with the Côte d’Or’s main city, tends to confuse people. Add to that the nearby appellations of Savigny-lès-Beaune and Chorey-lès-Beaune (the ‘lès’ signifying ‘close to’) and you can see Beaune’s unfortunate image problem. Luckily for us, however, this means that there are still some relative bargains here. In the present offering, the Beaune wines of Domaine Rossignol-Trapet and Domaine Lafarge should not be missed (see pages 20 and 47-48 respectively), whilst Domaine Jacques Prieur and Domaine Pierre Labet, released separately in December, also have extensive Beaune holdings.
DOMAINE PIERRE LABET
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DOMAINE PIERRE LABET In addition to overseeing Château de La Tour in the Clos de Vougeot, François Labet owns holdings in Beaune, Meursault and Gevrey-Chambertin. These wines are produced organically and although François has an operational base in Beaune, élevage takes place in Château de la Tour’s cellars in the Clos de Vougeot. Corney & Barrow represents these wines exclusively in the UK and Singapore. They were released in December – click here to see the offer.
FRANÇOIS LABET
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
POMMARD
VOLNAY
Pommard used to be the fashionable sibling of nearby Volnay, its clay soils making for a more corporeal, muscular style than Volnay’s delicate, ephemeral wines. Changing tastes meant the tables have turned somewhat, but a handful of quality producers are making exciting wines. As a red wine enclave in white wine country, Pommard is underrated and well worth exploring.
This wine comes from four plots, two of which were purchased in 1995, sited in the middle of the appellation: Les Lurets and Les Famines. In 2010, two further plots were added, another in Les Lurets – this is a parcel divided into village and premier cru – and one in Les Paux Bois. Ripe, candied red berries, with supple tannins and a gentle grip. 100% destemmed. Corney & Barrow Score 16 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2027 £295/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
DOMAINE CYROT-BUTHIAU Marc-Emmanuel and Olivier Cyrot are the fourth winemaking generation of this family domaine. They own six hectares of vines across Pommard, Volnay, Santenay and Maranges. The cellars of Domaine Cyrot-Buthiau are dug into the side of a rocky escarpment, beside Pommard 1er Cru les Arvelets, the final wine below. The wines are harvested by hand, de-stemmed and cold-macerated before fermentation.
BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR This comes from five plots, which before the 1937 reclassification of Pommard lay within the appellation. This is vinified half in stainless steel, half in old oak barrels. Lush, very ripe raspberry fruit, juicy and bright. 100% destemmed. Bottled at the end of August 2019. Good value. Corney & Barrow Score 16 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2023 £120/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
MARANGES 1ER CRU LES CLOS ROUSSOTS This half-hectare holding was inherited from MarcEmmanuel and Olivier’s mother. It is just over the border with Santenay – indeed, this plot is split between the two appellations. Ripe, sweet dark berries, with lots of matter. The skins were particularly thick this year, Marc reminded us. This was cold macerated, with very gentle punching down. 25% new oak. Corney & Barrow Score 16 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2025 £225/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
POMMARD The domaine owns 3.5 hectares of Pommard in total. This village cuvée is a blend of 15 parcels on the Volnay side of Pommard. Very attractive raspberry perfume, with some good characterful Pommard tannic bite and structure. 25% new oak barrels. There is no punching-down here, to keep the tannin extraction gentle. Corney & Barrow Score 16.5+ Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2028 £295/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
POMMARD 1ER CRU LES ARVELETS Les Arvelets is a 0.5 hectare south-facing sloping vineyard beside the domaine’s cuverie, whose red clay soils give high ripeness levels. Dense blackberry and forest fruits, rich in phenolics. The tannins are nicely fruit-coated, with a broad grip on the finish. Honest and immediate, this is the pinnacle of the line-up. Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2030 £445/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
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2018 VINTAGE
VOLNAY Silky, seductive, beguiling and ethereal. Volnay can be all of these things. Despite being surrounded by Chardonnay, this outpost of Pinot Noir has many parallels with the perfumed elegance of Chambolle-Musigny. A relatively small commune, Volnay lies between Pommard and Meursault. The vineyard slopes, facing east and south, descend steeply, before inclining more gently towards the road below - the photo opposite, of Marquis d’Angerville’s holdings, illustrates this well. The soils are marls, with a bedrock of limestone.
DOMAINE MARQUIS D’ANGERVILLE This domaine, once part-owned by the Dukes of Burgundy, lies at the very heart of Volnay, both geographically and emotionally. Guillaume d’Angerville, the current Marquis, took over the domaine upon the death of his father Jacques in 2003. The d’Angerville Pinot Noir clones are unique, producing particularly small grapes. These are long-lived Volnays, of the very highest quality. The 2018s will be released in March 2020.
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GUILLAUME D’ANGERVILLE
DOMAINE MARQUIS D’ANGERVILLE
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
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BURGUNDY
DOMAINE LAFARGE Michel and Frédéric Lafarge are Domaine Lafarge’s renowned father and son team. Michel worked with his father from 1949, with Frédéric starting in 1978. As of 2018, they have been joined by the next generation, Clothilde Lafarge, daughter of Frédéric and Chantal. The domaine traces its history back to the early 19th century, the iconic Clos du Château des Ducs having been bought in 1900 by Michel Lafarge’s father. The first wines bottled at the domaine in 1934 included Clos des Chênes, the domaine’s largest Volnay premier cru holding and one of the village’s flagships. Red wines are 100% destemmed. Michel and Frédéric converted to biodynamic viticulture in 1996 and the domaine is now at the forefront of the movement. There is nothing showy here, as a visit to the mould-covered cellars will confirm. The wines are pure, age-worthy and yet quite beautifully delicate.
THE 2018 VINTAGE AT DOMAINE LAFARGE 46
Frédéric Lafarge described 2018 as “hot and dry, with just enough water.” Flowering was “very fast”. Harvest started on 1st September, with Clos du Château des Ducs, then restarted on the 4th. There was no hydric stress here. 13.3% abv was the highest alcohol level at the domaine in 2018 – not many can say that... The malolactic went through in January 2019. The wines will stay on their fine lees until bottling.
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2018 VINTAGE
BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ RAISINS DORÉS This comes from a parcel of 80 year-old vines of Aligoté doré, the superior Aligoté clone. It shows bright apple and pear fruit, with an uplifting freshness of acidity (notwithstanding that it was picked relatively late, on 22nd and 23rd September). It will be bottled in March. 12.5% abv. Corney & Barrow Score 16.5-17 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2023 £85/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
MEURSAULT This comes from one of the three Lafarge parcels in the village of Meursault, all of which lie in the north of the appellation. Very bright and open, with a just-so level of maturity, firmly in the stone-fruit range, without any excess. There is a real sense of ease about this, a lovely wine. When tasting it, Frédéric Lafarge remarked that the vinifications were very “calm and assured” this year. Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2026 £195/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
MEURSAULT VENDANGES SÉLECTIONNÉES This is from two parcels of 70 and 75 year old vines in the northern part of the village, beneath Santenots du Milieu. There is a greater sense of stony minerality here compared to the regular cuvée, reflecting the power of this terroir. Frédéric expects the 2018 whites may repay a slightly longer period of cellaring than usual, due to the greater phenolic content this year. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2028 £215/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
FRÉDÉRIC LAFARGE, IN THE CLOS DU CHÂTEAU DES DUCS
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
BEAUNE BLANC 1ER CRU CLOS DES AIGROTS
BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR
The domaine’s holdings in premier cru Clos des Aigrots, from which both a white and a red are made, date back to 2005. The 2018 Aigrots is medium bodied, with a fabulously open wet-stone mineral texture, enhanced by cool citrus fruit. Very elegant. 10% new oak.
This wine is from four low-lying plots of vines between the village of Volnay and the road. Very pretty red berry fruit here, with freshness and crunch, as joyous and vibrant as ever, indeed more so in this year of lovely fruit ripeness. Aged in used oak barrels.
Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2020 - 2025
Corney & Barrow Score 16.5-17 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2026
£300/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£100/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
BOURGOGNE PASSETOUTGRAIN L’EXCEPTION
CÔTE DE BEAUNE VILLAGE
This is 50% Pinot Noir, 50% Gamay, inter-planted. The two varieties tend to reach maturity at the same time. These are very old vines – 90 years old. Bright, spherical red cherry fruit, reflecting its Gamay component. There is a phenolic crunch which works beautifully with the acidic energy of this wine. This will be bottled in April. Aged in used oak barrels. Really good this year. It also continues to be an absolute bargain...
This is a tiny 0.28 hectare holding, meaning that in loweryielding years, it goes into the Bourgogne Pinot Noir. Darker forest fruits here, with an insistent maturity. Blackberries, hedgerow, with a firmer tannic chassis, without losing that charming purity of fruit. Aged in used oak barrels.
Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 - 17 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2025
£145/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£85/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
BOURGOGNE PASSETOUTGRAIN L’EXCEPTION ANTHOLOGIE The first time this has been made. It was a decision of Clothilde Lafarge’s, being a selection of the best of the Passetoutgrain. So there is 50% Pinot Noir, 50% Gamay, as in the previous wine, coming from the same 90 year old vines. Compared to the normal cuvée, there is an extra density and a spicier, darker-fruited character. A more serious wine, with greater ageing potential, which appropriately has been bottled in magnum. Aged in used oak barrels. Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2026 £100/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2026
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2018 VINTAGE
DOMAINE LAFARGE CONTINUED...
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BEAUNE 1ER CRU CLOS DES AIGROTS
POMMARD LES PÉZEROLLES
The domaine has a plot of 45 year old vines in Aigrots. This bears more than a passing resemblance to Volnay, although it has a more forthright, grounded character, with overt fruit on the mid-palate and then a very mineral, tapering finish. 20% new oak, which is the maximum at the domaine.
This is a 0.15 hectare plot, making just one 350 litre barrel. As Frédéric Lafarge has said, Pézerolles is a particularly elegant style of Pommard. Lifted sweet red cherry fruit, very immediate and with a building sense of volume in the mouth. The tannins here are more structured, but with a charming red-berried fruit coating.
Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2033
Corney & Barrow Score 16.5-17 Recommended drinking from 2026 – 2035
£295/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£510/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
BEAUNE 1ER CRU LES GRÈVES
VOLNAY
Frédéric Lafarge has commented that Grèves is the greatest terroir in Beaune. The vines here were planted in 1921: the oldest in the domaine but still perfectly healthy, producing a respectable 38hl/ha in 2018. They lie at the heart of this gravelly vineyard, a part of which was replanted in 2017, having been grubbed up in 2014. Phenomenal purity here, with a rich sucrosity of fruit but somehow an even greater sense of fine, rocky minerality. Excellent wine. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2025 – 2034 £335/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
DOMAINE LAFARGE (ON THE LEFT)
This comes from four lower-lying parcels, located at opposite sides of the appellation (three in the north and one in the south), totalling 1.5 hectares. As Frédéric Lafarge explains it, the aim is to give an overview of Volnay. The tannins here are silky, the fruit is pure and red-berried, the aromas of rose petals to the fore. A benchmark Volnay. Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2028 £220/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
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VOLNAY VENDANGES SÉLECTIONÉES The Vendanges Sélectionnées is a blend from four parcels at the centre of the village, just below the line of premiers crus, totalling one hectare. It could therefore be said that this represents the heart of Volnay. Lovely rose petal perfume, with an extra level of density to the bright raspberry fruit. Along with its very fine tannins, this is a highly classical Volnay. 10% new oak. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2023-2028 £245/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
VOLNAY 1ER CRU LES MITANS Mitans was totally destemmed in 2018. In Frédéric Lafarge’s words, “Mitans is the Volnay that we all imagine – finely perfumed, with power and tannic presence in the mouth”. Wonderful sucrosity of pure raspberry fruit, with a real, almost plush, cushioning to the tannins. Bright, brilliantly bright. 20% new oak. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2034 £515/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
VOLNAY 1ER CRU LES PITURES This is a 0.17 hectare holding. The climat Pitures Dessus borders Pommard to the north east and Domaine Marquis d’Angerville’s Clos des Ducs to the south west, perhaps explaining its firmer build. It has whiter (more chalky) soil, giving firm tannins. There is a darker fruited aspect this year, with that trademark Lafarge transparency of fruit, giving a wonderful direct view of the fine but muscular tannic structure beneath. This will repay cellaring. 20% new oak. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2027 – 2034 £515/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
VOLNAY 1ER CRU LES CAILLERETS Caillerets lies to the south of the village, with Champans to the north east and Clos des Chênes to the north west. The vines here were over 60 years old in 2018. Following the 2017 vintage, the domaine grubbed up half of this vineyard (0.14 hectares). Since then, the land has been worked by Clothilde Lafarge by horse. There is a direct communion with the soil here, a supreme clarity of red berried fruit, more perfume than weight in the mouth. Ethereal and lovely. 20% new oak. Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2034 £510/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
VOLNAY 1ER CRU CLOS DES CHÊNES Always shown in tastings before Clos du Château des Ducs, but in many ways the quintessential wine of the domaine, Clos des Chênes is always the most forceful and assertive of the premiers crus. A very complete nose, of flinty dark minerality and pretty red fruits, leading into a palate of fine but impressively built tannins – not grippy, but lending a sense of power, of majesty even, to the long, virile finish. Goes on and on after spitting… 20% new oak. Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2025 – 2035 £560/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
VOLNAY 1ER CRU CLOS DU CHÂTEAU DES DUCS The vineyard behind the domaine (see the photo on page 46) and a monopole. Hand destemmed again this year, by family and friends of the Lafarges. It took 35 hours to hand-destem 3,000 bottles-worth of grapes in 2018. Horses were used to bring in the grapes from the Clos, following which the family held a harvest party to mark the vintage. There is a beautiful, disarming purity of rich raspberry fruit here, a transparency which I doubt is matched almost anywhere in the Côte. The tannins are superlatively fine, lattice-like, with a stunning freshness and poise. 20% new oak. Corney & Barrow Score 19 Recommended drinking from 2024-2037 £590/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
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2018 VINTAGE
DOMAINE GEORGES GLANTENAY
THE 2018 VINTAGE AT THE DOMAINE
An exciting new addition to the C&B family. Guillaume and Sarah Glantenay are a young brother and sister team who, having taken over from their father Pierre in the 2013 vintage, are beginning to make a name for themselves in the region and beyond.
Sarah Glantenay spoke of 2018s “particularly rainy spring, followed by a very hot and dry period, meaning flowering was fast and harvest early.”
This family-owned Volnay domaine traces its roots to the 17th century. It has eight hectares, spread over Volnay, Pommard and Chambolle-Musigny. The estate is an amalgam of origins, with the Chambolle holdings having been passed down from Guillaume and Sarah’s grandmother. Stylistically, Volnay and Chambolle have lots of similarities, both villages majoring on perfume and aromatic charm in youth. 27 year old Guillaume is in charge of viticulture and winemaking, whilst Sarah is a great ambassador for the estate. Over the past few years, they have made – and continue to make – significant improvements to the cellars. This is a domaine firmly on the up. Viticulture is lutte raisonée, involving ploughing, with no pesticides or herbicides. In the cellar, the grapes are almost all destemmed, then given a short cool maceration, following which fermentation occurs using natural yeasts. Extraction mainly consists of pumping over, with a little punching-down. The premiers crus see 30% new oak on average, the village wines 20%.
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90% of the domaine’s production is red wine. Fine, silky tannins are the key here, making for elegant, refined wines which are also age-worthy.
GUILLAUME AND SARAH GLANTENAY
The domaine’s whites maintained good levels of tartaric acid, which really comes through in these wines’ excellent zippy backbone. Harvest started on 27th August for whites, 29th August for reds, with everything being safely in the cellar by 4th September – quick work and even earlier than 2017. Vinification took a month, with 12 months’ ageing in oak barrels for the whites and up to 15 months for the reds. The domaine’s 2018s are encapsulated by Sarah as “wines of pleasure.” The whites were bottled on 3rd September 2019, just before the 2019 harvest. The others will be bottled during February and March 2020.
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MONTHÉLIE BLANC 1ER CRU LES CHAMPS FULLIOT Sarah and Guillaume’s parents bought this plot in 2008. It is located just above Santenots. After replanting it to Chardonnay – an excellent move – the first proper vintage was 2015. The only other grower producing white wine from this vineyard is Domaine Roulot. There is a fabulous energy and amplitude here, the 50% new oak adding body and tannin and working well with the natural minerality. Long, focused salty finish. A pick!
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
POMMARD This comes from three plots within the village of Pommard. Fine peppery spice, a nice meeting of poised forest fruit with dark minerality. The medium bodied palate is very deft – an effortlessly elegant rendition of a Pommard village. Corney & Barrow Score 16.5-17 Recommended drinking from 2021-2026 £205/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2021-2025 £230/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
VOLNAY This is made from eleven different plots in the village of Volnay. Really attractive red berry and rose perfume, with a pleasingly juicy, ample palate. The tannins are supple, with just the merest grip on the finish. A fabulous early drinker, with all the elegance of Volnay. 20% new oak. Corney & Barrow Score 16.5-17 Recommended drinking from 2021-2025 £160/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
VOLNAY 1ER CRU LE RONCERET This is a 0.45 hectare plot in the centre of the village, just below Champans, although half of it is now being replanted and will be out of production until the 2022 harvest. The name is thought to come from ronce, meaning blackberry. This is the most accessible and early-drinking vineyard, with small, sweet red fruits. Excellent freshness here, with a clipped acid backbone setting off the rounded, ripe red berry fruit. 35% new oak. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5-18 Recommended drinking from 2022-2031 £265/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
VOLNAY 1ER CRU LES BROUILLARDS At 1.10 hectares, Brouillards is the domaine’s largest premier cru holding and is essentially the flagship. It is on the Pommard side of the village, to the north of Mitans and across the road from Les Angles. 20% whole bunch vinification here, which has been very sensitively done, coming through as a gentle sappy spice. The tannins are firmer, adding a seriousness and rigour to the raspberry fruit. 45% new oak. An impressive wine for longer term cellaring. 14 barrels have been produced. Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2024-2035+ £280/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
POMMARD 1ER CRU LES RUGIENS HAUTS This comes from a steeply-sloping 0.21 hectare plot, on the Volnay side of the village. Along with Épenots, Rugiens enjoys the best terroir in Pommard; there is a move to upgrade both to grand cru status. Aromatically detailed, with dark berries and peppery spice. Excellent wine. The name Rugiens derives from ‘ferruginous’, reflecting its irony soil. This sees 50% new oak, the highest amount used at the domaine. Just five barrels were made in 2018 – the same as last year, generous vintages! Corney & Barrow Score 18+ Recommended drinking from 2022-2035 £415/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 1ER CRU LES FEUSSELOTTES We now move to the Côte de Nuits and ChambolleMusigny. Les Feusselottes sits in the middle of the appellation, just above Les Charmes. Finely red-berried, this has a hugely attractive delicacy of fruit and aromas, weightless, with very fine tannins and a tapering long finish, of lingering salinity. It sees 50% new oak – only two barrels are made, so one old, one new! Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2023-2035 £645/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
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BURGUNDY
MEURSAULT The largest village of the Côte de Beaune, Meursault sits in the centre of the appellation, with Volnay to the north and Puligny-Montrachet to the south. Although we have come to expect volume and ‘butteriness’ from Meursault, there is in fact a lot of limestone in the soil and corresponding nervy tension in the wines. The best Meursaults need little makeup. Meursault is primarily Chardonnay country but there are islands of Pinot Noir, notably Les Santenots, which sits on the boundary with Volnay and can be labelled VolnaySantenots. As with Nuits-Saint-Georges, it is surprising that a village of this renown has no grands crus. Meursault has perhaps suffered historically by comparison with Puligny and Chassagne from not having ‘Montrachet’ appended to its name. Whatever the reason, the best Meursault premiers crus approach grand cru calibre.
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2018 VINTAGE
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com/burgundy
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
DOMAINE JACQUES PRIEUR Domaine Jacques Prieur belongs in the Meursault section by virtue of the location of the domaine buildings, but its holdings comprise a pantheon of great names stretching the length of the Côte. This is an expansive roll-call of some of the best terroir in class, assembled over the years and now back at the very highest level. The recent history of the domaine saw the purchase of the majority share from the Prieur family by the late JeanPierre Labruyère in 1988. Nadine Gublin was appointed head winemaker in 1990. Jean-Pierre Labruyère’s son Edouard took over the management of the estates in 2008. We are proud to be exclusive UK agents and will release the 2018s shortly.
DOMAINE PIERRE MOREY We knew Pierre Morey during his two decades as Régisseur of Domaine Leflaive, from 1988 to 2008. He combined this high profile position with running the eponymous family domaine in Meursault. We have long wanted to work with these fabulous wines and finally secured our first allocation in the 2017 vintage. This was swiftly followed by our appointment as exclusive UK agent from the 2018 vintage. Pierre remains a constant presence here but it is now his daughter, Anne Morey, who runs the domaine and its associated négociant operation, Morey-Blanc. The latter is only distinguishable in that these vines are not owned by the family – handling and ageing are identical, taking place in the domaine’s cellars. Winemaking is protective, with 100% destemming of the reds. The wines have an astonishing sense of purity and hit that sweet spot of fruit expression and terroir nuance. We are hugely proud of this newest addition to our Burgundy family. We will do a combined launch of the 2017s and 2018s shortly.
MEURSAULT TOWN HALL
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BURGUNDY
DOMAINE PATRICK JAVILLIER Another domaine in the process of a generational handover, the face here is increasingly Patrick’s daughter Marion. Patrick took over from his father in 1974. He expanded the domaine’s holdings to today’s ten hectares. Marion is now responsible for vinifying the red wines and for the commercial aspects of the domaine, whilst her brother-in-law Pierre-Emmanuel has made the whites alongside Patrick since 2011. 80% of the domaine’s production is white wine and 20% red wine. Marion carried out a green harvest on the Pinot Noir in 2018. The white wine harvest stared on 30th August – relatively early, but then this is always among the first domaines to pick.
BOURGOGNE CÔTE D’OR CUVÉE DES FORGETS Named after the Rue des Forges, where the domaine is based, this comes from a number of parcels on the Volnay side of Meursault, on clay-rich soil which delivers density. This is nicely textured, with bright orchard fruit and a gentle phenolic grip. Vibrant and juicy, a good early drinker and fantastic value. 22% new oak.
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Corney & Barrow Score 16.5+ Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2023 £95/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
BOURGOGNE CÔTE D’OR CUVÉE OLIGOCÈNE This is named after the Oligocène geological epoch, from which these limestone-rich plots date. The vines are on the Puligny (southern) side of the village, below Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes Dessous. There is an additional level of tension and limestone nerviness here, which comes out in a flinty minerality and a hint of matchstick reduction. As always, excellent value. Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2024 £125/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
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2018 VINTAGE
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com/burgundy
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
MEURSAULT LES TILLETS Les Tillets is a large vineyard, high on the slope, southwest of the village. The domaine has almost two hectares here. The rocky limestone soils are very poor, making for a mineral style of wine. A lick of new oak rounds out the white peach fruit nicely. Fine grip on the finish and a sense of dry extract. Lovely wine, proper traditional Meursault. 30% new oak. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2026 £235/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
MEURSAULT LES CLOUSOTS This comes from two sites: the deep clay soils of Les Clous and the limestone-rich Crotots. The latter, south of the village, is just beneath 1er Cru Les Poruzots. This is possibly a more complete wine than Tillets, having both the clay and limestone elements. Very nicely poised between power and nervy tension, with white peach fruit and a little pithy grapefruit. It is vinified in one year old oak – no need for makeup here. Around 2,400 bottles were made. Corney & Barrow Score 17-17.5 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2027 £275/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
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MEURSAULT CUVÉE TÊTE DE MURGER This is another blend of two sites, vinified separately, Murger de Monthélie and Les Casse-Tête (literally “broken heads” [of the stones], limestone-rich). There is a real juiciness and electric energy here, white peach, grapefruit, pithy orange zest. All vinified in 1-2 year old oak. This will be even longer lived than Clousots, fabulous. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5-18 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2028+ £365/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE 1ER CRU LES SERPENTIÈRES Serpentières is located at the beginning of the village of Savigny as you approach it from Beaune. The lieu-dit is rather unique in that it contains the village’s cemetery. There is more limestone than clay here, underscoring the tension of this wine. This has the plush raspberry fruit of Savigny in 2018, with an additional element of nervy tension. 30% new oak, 100% destemmed. Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2026 MEURSAULT LES TILLETS
£170/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
BURGUNDY
2018 VINTAGE
DOMAINE MATROT
MEURSAULT 1ER CRU CHARMES
Adèle and Elsa Matrot are now at the helm of this family owned estate, having taken over from their highly respected father Thierry Matrot, who had made the wines here for over three decades. Thierry is still very much present at the domaine, further evidence that Burgundian vignerons never actually retire… 2018 is Adèle and Elsa’s third vintage in charge.
This comes from four sites, totalling just over a hectare. 80% Charmes du Dessus (more mineral in style) and 20% Charmes du Dessous (broader in style). Tasted after the Blagny, this is more opulent on the nose, whilst the palate is steely and beautifully sculpted, with apple and quince. A rich, focused style. This spends 12 months in old oak and then 6 months in tank.
The domaine has been totally organic since 2000, making both reds and whites. In recent vintages it has been hit particularly hard by hail and frost, which makes the more normal yields this year particularly gratifyin. We tasted with Gaёl Fouré, chef de cave. The 2018s were Gaёl’s 25th vintage here – quite an achievement! He described the wines as having similarities with the warm vintages of 2003 and 1999. The domaine started picking on the 24th of August, the earliest ever!
Corney & Barrow Score 17-17.5 Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2027
SAINT-ROMAIN
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This comes from two plots in Saint-Romain and has been made by the Matrot family since the early 2000s. A nice coming-together of citric fruit, stony minerality and coffeed oak spice. The 25% new oak gives a broad, toasty aspect to the elemental mineral character of Saint-Romain.
£625/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
MEURSAULT 1ER CRU PERRIÈRES This has the chiselled mineral structure of Perrières – quite bracing at present. That trademark textural finesse appears on the attack and then again on the finish, whilst the mid-palate is fleshed out with weightier apple, lime and pear fruit. This needs some cellaring to find its feet but will be really good. No new oak. Tasted from tonneau. Corney & Barrow Score 17++ Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2027 £775/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
Corney & Barrow Score 16.5+ Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2025 £250/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
MEURSAULT 1ER CRU BLAGNY The white soils here – limestone and light clay – contribute to a fine chalky texture. The attack is very fresh, with green citrus and white flowers, enhanced by crisp acidity. More flesh on the mid-palate, which reveals more generous pear fruit and a creamy weight. Tasted from tonneau. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2027 £575/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU LES COMBETTES This is the smallest holding of the domaine: only five or six barrels are made. It was the first site to be harvested in 2018. Very open on the nose, it has the elegance and power of Combettes. The palate is taut and textured, white flowers, quince and a more exotic grapefruited element, with that innate power beneath the surface. Hazelnuts and delicate perfume on the finish. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2027 £775/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com/burgundy
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
MARANGES 1ER CRU LA FUSSIÈRE
MEURSAULT ROUGE
This consists of nearly two hectares of vines. Very bright, almost candied raspberry fruit here, with a touch of milk chocolate and coffee beans. Blackberry compote and figs on the palate, quite rich but framed by welldefined tannins, finishing crunchy and precise. 10 barrels were made.
Deep ruby colour, surprisingly intense. Dark, bitter cherries, kirsch, some cedar and peppery spice. On the palate, it is gratifyingly dense and immediate, with a touch of leather countering the admirable purity of strawberry and raspberry fruit. This is not a wine we buy every year, but when Joe Muller and I tasted it at the domaine, we were so impressed we decided to make an exception. Great surprise here, an over-performer.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2028 £250/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2026 £275/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
AUXEY-DURESSES This comes from one parcel near Les Meix Chaveaux and one higher up the steeply sloping side-valley, on the border with Saint-Romain. Again, this is a wine which really benefits from the 2018 fruit weight, which puts flesh on its bones. The tannins are muscular, but nicely extracted, making for a wine which will repay a few years’ cellaring. Corney & Barrow Score 16.5-17 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2026 £265/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
BLAGNY 1ER CRU LA PIÈCE SOUS LE BOIS From a plot just above Sous le Dos d’Âne (as cultivated most notably by Domaine Leflaive) and directly beneath the wood of Blagny, hence the name. This has intense forest fruits and dark cherries, with a touch of undergrowth and nutmeg – complex and spicy. The tannins are firm but fine and nicely fruit-coated, lending a suppleness which works well with the sucrosity. It bears the mark of the fleshy 2018 fruit, in a good way. 20% new oak. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5-18 Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2031 £525/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
CELLARS AT DOMAINE MATROT
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BURGUNDY
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2018 VINTAGE
DOMAINE HENRI DARNAT
MEURSAULT CLOS DU DOMAINE
Henri Darnat’s aim is to make wines which are both drinkable in youth and age-worthy. He is inquisitive and hugely energetic, always striving to innovate. Henri’s relationship with oak is illustrative of this studied avoidance of fashion. Having eliminated new oak barrels from his wines at the same time as he received organic certification over a decade ago, he is now experimenting once more. These wines will drink relatively early and will repay medium-term cellaring.
This is a blend of five parcels in Meursault. Expressive citrus fruit, with good salty mineral Meursault character, rocky limestone tension and a little phenolic crunch on the finish. Fermented and aged in around a third new oak, in 600 litre demi-muids. Bottled September 2019. Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 Recommended drinking from 2021-2025 £315/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
MEURSAULT 1ER CRU CLOS RICHEMONT MONOPOLE Located just above Santenots, on the border of Meursault and Volnay, in that curious zone of both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Its neighbour to the north is Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets. This is a monopole, Henri being the only producer of Clos Richemont. Surprisingly linear and stonily mineral-driven, the 100% new large oak demimuids integrating very nicely. A full bodied wine, with a hint of oak tannin, great for food pairing. Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2022-2027
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£515/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
HENRI DARNAT
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com/burgundy
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
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DOMAINE HENRI DARNAT
BURGUNDY
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2018 VINTAGE
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET
DOMAINE LEFLAIVE
For many the pinnacle of white Burgundy, the name Puligny-Montrachet is universally recognised and a stamp of quality. Laser-like, linear, precise, steely, floral – these are the adjectives we hope to write when we taste the wines of Puligny. The village shares the Montrachet vineyard with its neighbour, Chassagne, entitling it to its cherished suffix. We work with three Puligny growers, who between them cover a broad spectrum of styles and sites.
Among the most famous white wine domaines of Burgundy, Domaine Leflaive is now run by Brice de La Morandière. The domaine dates back to 1717, with Joseph Leflaive (1870-1953) bringing the wines to the world’s attention. Following his death, his two sons Vincent and Jo took over, followed by Anne-Claude Leflaive, who assumed sole control in 1994, until her death in 2015. Corney & Barrow is the exclusive agent of Domaine Leflaive in the UK and Singapore. The Domaine Leflaive 2018s were among the first wines released, in December 2019. Click here to see the offer. Please also see Domaines Leflaive on page 75.
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DOMAINE LEFLAIVE
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com/burgundy
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
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DOMAINE FRANÇOIS CARILLON François Carillon is the sixteenth generation of a winemaking family which traces its Burgundian roots back to 1520. Despite this rich heritage, the domaine in its current form was established in 2010, following the retirement of François’ father Louis Carillon. François and his brother Jacques decided to go their separate ways, as is so often the case due to the Napoleonic succession laws which divide inherited estates between siblings. Corney & Barrow is the exclusive UK agent of Domaine François Carillon. The 2018s will be released shortly.
FRANÇOIS CARILLON
BURGUNDY
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2018 VINTAGE
OLIVIER LEFLAIVE
MONTAGNY 1ER CRU BONNEVEAUX
In the three decades since Maison Olivier Leflaive was established, this Burgundy house has quietly forged an impressive reputation. The standard, consistency and depth of Olivier Leflaive’s offering are bound to the relationships with 100 or so small growers, from whom Olivier Leflaive sources grapes. These relationships lie in the hands of Franck Grux and Philippe Grillet, who run the vineyards and cellars.
Bonneveaux is a sunny, bright, sloping vineyard. Year after year, it produces a remarkably consistent white Burgundy, unfailingly uplifting in spirit. This is a C&B exclusivity – we buy the whole production. Enticing jasmine scent, supple orchard fruit and lemon-cream layers: satisfying and refreshing.
For many years now, Olivier Leflaive has made special wines exclusively for Corney & Barrow from particular vineyards to which we – customers and staff alike – have become loyal over time. We commit to purchase early in the year in order to secure allocations, as well as preferential prices. This arrangement is testament to the long relationship between Corney & Barrow and Olivier Leflaive.
£230/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £257/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
The 2018s were released in June 2019, as always the leaders of the pack by some distance. Click here to see the offer. In addition, we have secured an additional allocation of the wines below, including some of the lesser-known (but equally noteworthy) Pinot Noirs.
In this warm year, Pernand is expressive yet refined, weaving magic with its alluring white flower scent and tangy thrill of fruit. True to its high, chalky terroir, the wine is precise and taut, an exercise in balance. Not to be missed.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2019-2021
PERNAND-VERGELESSES
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2020-2023 £142/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
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CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET LES BLANCHOTS Blanchots has a refined bone structure and uptown allure, a reflection of its exceptional site – a continuation of Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet. Fine in texture, smooth as silk, this is a wine of grace and race, with toned orchard fruit, fresh macadamia nut layers and firm, stony acids to finish. Corney & Barrow Score 17-18 Recommended drinking from 2020-2024 £236/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET LES MEIX Les Meix is a vineyard parcel just yards from premier cru Les Pucelles and in richer vintages, can yield wines of real exception. Ripe yet ballerina-fine this year, Les Meix offers lively, upbeat orchard fruit and gentle hazelnutcream layers, leaving a scent of white flowers in its wake. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5-18 Recommended drinking from 2019-2023 £278/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com/burgundy
PERNAND-VERGELESSES ROUGE 1ER CRU FICHOTS
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
POMMARD
The premier cru Fichots is located at the base of the hill of Corton, on cool clay soils. This is a blend of two parcels, whose vines are 40 years old on average. Vibrant red cherry fruit on the nose, soaring rose petal aromatics. The palate is deft and fruit-driven, with candied raspberry fruit and very supple, fruit-coated tannins. A great early drinker. 100% destemmed, with 25% new oak. 13% abv.
This is a blend of seven plots in Pommard. The vines are 50 years old on average. Dark and spicy on the nose, black pepper and cedar, with a zesty grapefruit lift. The palate is upbeat, buoyed by fresh acidity and deft tea-leaf spice from the 15% whole bunch fermentation. The grippy tannins of Pommard exert themselves on the finish, pointing to a wine which will benefit from 3-4 years’ ageing. 30% new oak. 13% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 17+ Recommended drinking from 2022-2026
Corney & Barrow Score 16.5-17 Recommended drinking from 2023-2028
£170/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£275/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
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OLIVIER LEFLAIVE
BURGUNDY
SAINT-AUBIN Saint-Aubin lies in a side-valley in the hills to the west of Puligny- and Chassagne-Montrachet, at over 300 metres above sea level. The road to Saint-Aubin is flanked by forest; the air feels fresher. The appellation dates from 1937. The soils are clay-heavy; white wines tend to come from the lighter clays, with high limestone content, with the reds thriving on the heavier brown clay soils. Previously seen as a source of value relative to adjoining Puligny and Chassagne, the best wines from Saint-Aubin now rival those from its more famous neighbours.
DOMAINE HUBERT LAMY It is not too much to say that Domaine Hubert Lamy put Saint-Aubin on the map and, in doing so, established itself among the top echelon of white wine domaines in Burgundy. We were delighted to add these brilliant wines to our roster in the small 2016 vintage, making the 2018s our third vintage release.
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The domaine has 18.5 hectares of vines, 80% of which are planted to Chardonnay and 20% to Pinot Noir. Although the domaine is based in Saint-Aubin, it also has holdings in Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay. There are 20 appellations in total and around 110,000 bottles per year are produced. The Lamy family has been making wine in Saint-Aubin since 1640. However, it was not until 1973 that Hubert Lamy established the domaine. At the time of its founding, the estate consisted of around eight hectares of vines. The domaine blossomed during the 1990s, acquiring several new plots. Olivier Lamy, son of Hubert, joined the domaine in 1995. With understated assuredness, he has taken these wines to a new level and is without a doubt one of the leading winemakers of his generation.
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2018 VINTAGE
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com/burgundy
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
THE 2018 VINTAGE, IN THE WORDS OF OLIVIER LAMY
OLIVIER LAMY
Olivier Lamy described 2018 as a “really complex vintage”, backing this up with an impressive array of meteorological data. One fact which stuck in my mind was that there was 30% more light than normal in 2018, with the same amount of water. More than a warm vintage, 2018 was a vintage of light. Harvest started with the young vines on 22nd August and finished on 12th September. Some plots were harvested in 2, 3 or even 5 passages for maximum precision and depending on the age of the vine, soil type, rootstock and massal selection. The whites, with a beautiful level of maturity, have retained impressive acidity and balance for a ‘solar vintage’. There is between zero and 5% new oak. The reds are more influenced by the sun, with black fruits, high concentration and substantial tannins. 50% of whole bunches has brought finesse to the reds, as well as a floral side. The yields are at the level of 2013 or 2014 – relatively low, due to the low moisture levels.
CELLARS AT DOMAINE HUBERT LAMY
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BURGUNDY
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2018 VINTAGE
DOMAINE HUBERT LAMY CONTINUED...
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SAINT-AUBIN LA PRINCÉE
SAINT-AUBIN 1ER CRU EN REMILLY
This is a “sous-lieu-dit”, in Olivier Lamy’s words. La Princée is in fact the domaine’s name for this blend of ten different plots covering three hectares around SaintAubin. The vines here were planted in 1985 and 2000. This has a flintier nose, with a touch of grapefruit, really precise and currently quite stark, as is the way with Olivier’s wines when tasted young. Given a chance to flesh out, this will be fabulous.
This is a blend of two parcels within En Remilly, one of the top sites in Saint-Aubin, located just above ChevalierMontrachet, where Puligny meets Chassagne. The vines here were planted by Hubert Lamy in the 1990s. Flinty, struck rock minerality to the fore, with a beguiling amplitude of citrus and stone-fruit on the mid-palate, before finishing super clipped and precise, leaving a sense of grippy dry extract. Great wine.
Corney & Barrow Score 17+ Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2025
Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2026
£170/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£295/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
SAINT-AUBIN 1ER CRU DERRIÈRE CHEZ EDOUARD
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET ROUGE LA GOUJONNE VIEILLES VIGNES
This is a 1.68 hectare lieu-dit planted in 2000 at a density of 14,000 vines per hectare (the so-called Haute Densité cuvée is from a plot planted at 30,000 vines per hectare). Always the most linear of his whites, according to Olivier, this is quite beautifully textured, with Chablis-esque oyster shell minerality complementing the cool white peach and pear fruit. Excellent intensity on the palate, driving through to a long, delineated finish. So much energy here.
Red Chassagne-Montrachet harks back to the origins of the village. This comes from a 1.05 hectare holding in the centre of the appellation. Very bright, dense red cherry fruit, with a pleasing crunchiness of texture. 50% whole bunch vinification accentuates the freshness and brings a touch of exotic spice. Olivier produced 20% less red wine overall in 2018 than 2017, due to the dryness of the season.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5-18 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2026 £225/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
Corney & Barrow Score 17+ Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2028 £195/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com/burgundy
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
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SAINT-AUBIN 1ER CRU
BURGUNDY
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2018 VINTAGE
SANTENAY
DOMAINE JUSTIN GIRARDIN
Sitting at the southernmost tip of the Côte d’Or, Santenay’s plantings consist of around 90% black grapes and just 10% white. Its history dates back to pre-Roman times, when it was prized for its thermal waters, rich in mineral salts.
Domaine Justin Girardin is a 17 hectare estate, based in Santenay, with holdings stretching north to Pommard and Savigny.
The vineyards are marked out by the windmill which sits in the premier cru Beauregard vineyard. The village itself, home to little more than 1,000 inhabitants, has a pretty central square which always seems strangely deserted. With the steady march of prices further north in the Côte, this is an appellation which is fast establishing roots in the minds of Burgundy lovers.
For the fourth year now, we are very pleased to include these wines in this offer. We started working with Justin in the 2015 vintage, his inaugural solo year at the helm of this family domaine and the first vintage labelled under Justin’s own name. The Girardin family traces its Burgundian roots back to 1570, with Justin Girardin being the 13th generation. Following studies in Beaune and Bordeaux, plus a vintage in Tasmania, Justin returned to the domaine in 2010. He worked alongside his parents, Valérie and Jacques, who had bought the domaine from his uncle, Vincent Girardin, at the same time as Vincent shifted his focus to Meursault. We are offering our usual three premiers crus Santenays and a village Pommard. The latter is juicy and delectable, from an appellation that doesn’t usually abound in these traits – highly recommended. How to choose between the Santenays though? The two extremes are Clos Rousseau, for age-worthiness and substance, and Beauregard, for delicacy and approachability, with Maladière sitting between the two stylistically. The wines are 100% destemmed.
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Justin said that 2018 was a dream vintage to make, which comes through in these wines’ absolute ease.
JUSTIN GIRARDIN
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
SANTENAY 1ER CRU BEAUREGARD
SANTENAY 1ER CRU CLOS ROUSSEAU
Beauregard, with its distinctive windmill (the Moulin de Santenay) in the vineyard, is the highest-lying of Justin Girardin’s Santenay holdings, around 50 metres above the others, on the Chassagne side of the appellation. The soils here are the poorest of the three sites. This tends to be the most immediately attractive, suited to earlier drinking. A deep ruby colour, with a very bright, attractive nose of forest fruits, leading into a pretty red berried palate. 22% new oak adds a little body. 13% abv.
Clos Rousseau has deeper, heavier clay soils and its vines’ roots have dug further, which seems to confer a greater profundity, concentration and age-worthiness on the resulting wine. Justin has almost one hectare here. The nose combines some of the pretty perfume of Beauregard with the weight and flinty minerality of Maladière. There is an additional layer of sucrosity and sweetly berried forest fruits on the palate, with fine grippy tannins. This needs some time to meld but will be fantastic. 13% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2022-2028
Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2023-2030
£140/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£130/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
SANTENAY 1ER CRU MALADIÈRE
POMMARD
The name Maladière derives from the nearby Maladière of Chagny, a hospital. This is a sunny, warm site and this tends to be spicier, with darker berries than Beauregard. It is a south-east facing vineyard, with deeper soils, located in the centre of the appellation. Justin has 0.7 hectares here. Great sucrosity of fruit, with an extra layer of power. The 2018 fruit weight suits Maladière’s dark fruited character down to the ground. 20% new oak. 13% abv.
The domaine’s Pommard is made from four parcels, two in Les Vignots, one in Les Cras and another in Les Combes. Surprisingly, gratifyingly red berried, with a delicious lift of cherry fruit and firm yet fine tannins. 25% new oak. Of his approach here, Justin says “There is great terroir here for sure – I don’t want to make a big, masculine style of Pommard”. To this end, this gets no pigeage, just regular pumping over, three times a day at the beginning of vinification. Really good wine.
Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2023-2029
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2022-2028+
£130/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£190/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
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BURGUNDY
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2018 VINTAGE
N
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CÔTE CHALONNAISE
70
YONNE Chalbis
Tonnerre
Chalbis
Tonnerre
Auxerre
The Côte Chalonnaise is an undulating landscape to the south of the Côte de Beaune, stretching from Bouzeron to Montagny. The soils are similar to the Côte de Beaune: a mixture of limestone, gravel and clay. Although further south and therefore enjoying fractionally more sunshine, it is actually more exposed than the Côte d’Or. Five villages stand out: Givry, Montagny, Mercurey, Rully and Bouzeron.
YONNE CÔTE D’ OR
Auxerre
RN74
Dijon
A6
Nuits-Saint-Georges CÔTE D’ OR
CÔTE DE BEAUNE
Dijon
Beaune
A6
CÔTE DE NUITS RN74
DOMAINE DE VILLAINE Nuits-Saint-Georges CÔTE CHALONNAISE CÔTE DE BEAUNE
CÔTE DE NUITS
Châlon-sur-Saône
Beaune
SAÔNE-ET-LOIRE
CHÂLON-SUR-SAÔNE DOMAINE DE VILLAINE CÔTE CHALONNAISE A6
SAÔNE-ET-LOIRE
CHÂLON-SUR-SAÔNE
Beaujeu A6
BEAUJOLAIS Villefranche-sur-Saône
Beaujeu
BEAUJOLAIS LYON Villefranche-sur-Saône
0
50 km
GRAND CRUS, PREMIERS CRUS, VILLAGES
0
50 km
GRAND CRUS, PREMIERS CRUS, VILLAGES
Châlon-sur-Saône
LYON
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
71
DOMAINE DE VILLAINE
BURGUNDY
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2018 VINTAGE
BOUZERON Bouzeron is the sole Aligoté-only appellation in Burgundy. This rather overlooked grape variety finds its finest expression here. Plantings here are of the superior Aligoté doré clone.
DOMAINE DE VILLAINE Domaine de Villaine is co-owned by Pamela and Aubert de Villaine and their nephew, Pierre de Benoist, who has managed the domaine for the past 20 years. Aubert de Villaine is of course also the co-director of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. The oldest Aligoté vines at the domaine are 150 years old. From these, Pierre has created a nursery for replanting. Domaine de Villaine also produces wines from neighbouring Rully and Mercurey. The estate has been managed organically since 1986 and was certified in 1997.
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The new cellar, finished four years ago, was designed along Roman architectural lines. The cellar’s brick walls were chosen by Pierre for their porosity and the consequent natural accumulation of yeast cultures. The wines are vinified in barrel and large oak foudres, with practically no new oak. Pierre spoke of “incredible levels of maturity” in 2018. An exciting development here is the recent acquisition of Domaine Saint-Michel in Rully, which will see a host of new Rully premiers crus released next year. Watch this space… The vintage here is 2018, unless otherwise stated.
BOUZERON, DOMAINE DE VILLAINE
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
BOUZERON BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ
RULLY LES SAINT-JACQUES
The domaine’s 17 parcels of Aligote doré vines cover nine hectares. Aligoté, which Pierre describes as having an “ancestry in aromatic varieties”, also has higher acidity than Chardonnay, particularly useful in a warmer year such as 2018. This has attractive orchard fruit and apple blossom, with a taut line of acidity countering the fuller body this year. A serious Aligoté and one which will doubtless age beautifully.
This is a 1.7 hectare plot, on the plain, in the north of the appellation, south-east facing, on deep, rich soils. Flamboyant and exotic on the palate, with ripe peach and zesty grapefruit, it is juicy – a pleasure-giver. Very low yields here, this being a hard plot to work, as Pierre explains it. It is vinified in one foudre and eight barrels, all old oak. Recommended, for slightly earlier drinking.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5-18 Recommended drinking from 2019 – 2023+
Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2025 £240/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£215/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
RULLY 1ER CRU MONTPALAIS 2017
RULLY 1ER CRU LES MARGOTÉS 2017
The premiers crus are all released once in bottle, therefore are from the 2017 vintage. This is a very small plot within Montpalais, less than 0.5 hectares, with 10 year old vines. It is planted with Chardonnay and Chardonnay Muscaté, the latter a clone which gives a floral, exotic edge, bringing a certain flamboyance. There is a strong sense of salinity here, which sits nicely alongside the supple white peach fruit. The finish is honeyed and with yellow flowers, with some phenolic grip from the skins. Youthful and vibrant. 10 barrels were made.
Margotés is a one hectare site in the far south of Rully, with a core of 80 year old vines, surrounded by plantings from the 1960s. This has a white pepper spice, white peach fruit and a pithy grip on the finish, with that lovely saline tang that so characterises Pierre’s wines. Vinified in large foudres. A wine of incisive personality, which should develop nicely in bottle.
Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2025
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2025 £395/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£395/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
RULLY 1ER CRU GRÉSIGNY 2017
MERCUREY LES MONTOTS
A 0.54 hectare plot, bought by Pierre in 2011, sight unseen, such is its reputation! This area is called Les Fiards and forms part of Bouzeron. It is planted with 80 year old vines, which have developed an extensive root system. This is a massal selection, one part being from Puligny. Again, this has a yellow flower, honeysuckle character in 2017, with a strong dry-stone sense of minerality. 10 barrels were made.
Following the first vintage of this wine in 1991, the domaine replanted this iron-rich plot in 1999 with top quality clones from Nuits-Saint-Georges. 60% whole bunch fermentation, with five days of cold pre-fermentation maceration. Bright red cherry fruit, with a crunchiness of texture and pretty rose petal perfume. The firm tannic chassis demands a little patience.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2021-2027 £395/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
Corney & Barrow Score 16.5-17 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2027 £145/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
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BURGUNDY
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2018 VINTAGE
N
MÂCONNAIS
74
Mâcon lies 45 minutes by autoroute to the south of Châlonsur-Saône. It is closer to Lyon than Beaune. For a style of white wine sometimes confused with Chablis, it is worth noting that there are 219 kilometres between the two cities, making for real differences in climate. In simple terms, there is greater fruit ripeness here and less piercing acidity.
N
CHÂLON-SUR-SAÔNE MÂCONNAIS
A6
DOMAINES LEFLAIVE MÂCON
Beaujeu
DOMAINE LAFARGE VIAL BEAUJOLAIS
DOMAINE LABRUYÈRE
Villefranche-sur-Saône
LYON CHÂLON-SUR-SAÔNE
The quality hierarchy in the Mâconnais starts with generic Mâcon, which may be red or white. Mâcon-Villages is a step up, applying to white wines only.
MÂCONNAIS 0
A6
DOMAINES LEFLAIVE
50 km
MÂCON
GRAND CRUS, PREMIERS CRUS, VILLAGES Beaujeu DOMAINE LAFARGE VIAL BEAUJOLAIS
DOMAINE LABRUYÈRE
Villefranche-sur-Saône
LYON
The top status, again for white wines only, is conferred on the 26 communes who may use their village name after Mâcon.
0
50 km
GRAND CRUS, PREMIERS CRUS, VILLAGES
BRICE DE LA MORANDIÈRE
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
DOMAINES LEFLAIVE
MÂCON-VERZÉ LES CHÊNES
Domaines Leflaive (note the ‘s’) is Domaine Leflaive’s operation in the Mâconnais. The domaine’s first vintage here, of Mâcon-Verzé, was in 2004.
Just three hectares in size and lying about half a mile north-northwest of Le Monté, this has what I can only describe as a more Puligny (rather than Meursault-rich) quality and refinement. The nose is tightly perfumed, with shades of gold and white fruit, a drier more mineral palate than the Verzé but with a subtly rich concentration to the finish. Really stylish this wine.
The original holdings totalled 9.3 hectares, consisting of five plots: Les Chênes, En Perret, Le Monté, Escolles and Les Muses. Last year saw two of these plots – Les Chênes and Le Monté – produced as single vineyard cuvées and this year, a new wine was introduced, from Mâcon-Igé, the village to the immediate north. Corney & Barrow is the exclusive agent for these wines in the UK and Singapore. The 2018 was released in the main Domaine Leflaive offer in December. Click here to see the offer.
Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2023 £310/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £340/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
MÂCON-VERZÉ LE MONTÉ MÂCON-VERZÉ Last year we noted that this, ‘the least expensive fine wine in the world’ had gone plural with two – and now three – tiny plots – now being offered separately. This is helping to redefine both the specificity and quality of a massively underestimated part of Burgundy and also sadly means that an already small production of this ‘village’ wine now becomes even rarer despite the domaine’s judicious purchase of another few hectares. We will be doing a vertical tasting of each vintage going back to 2004 later next year to show just how good this wine is. Full yellow green colour. The nose is floral, with a zesty, lemony perfume and a latent buttery richness. The palate is delectably fresh, subtly rich, with clean, pure flavours and a supple, easy finish. A lovely Verzé. Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2023 £275/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £305/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
One hectare. The rarest of the single vineyards and the southernmost plot in Verzé. The nose is consequently weightier, with a floral rich perfume which reminded me (absurdly perhaps) of Puligny-Montrachet’s Clavoillon. The palate is creamier than Les Chênes, with a sweet, supple half-richness but a balancing, light minerality to the finish. Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2023 £320/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £350/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
MÂCON-IGÉ This is offered for the very first time. Lying to the north of Verzé, it is the polar opposite of Le Monté in taste and offers a delectable contrast between the nose and the palate. The nose is Folatières-like, with sexy, silken fruit. The palate is perhaps the driest of the four wines, elegantly concentrated, beautifully fresh and full with an insinuating and surprising length. Quite a debut. Corney & Barrow Score 17-18 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2023 £275/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £305/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
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BURGUNDY
BEAUJOLAIS We now enter the world of Gamay. Beaujolais is thriving as never before, with quality-focused producers making some brilliant wines, with more friendly price tags than Côte d’Or Pinot Noir. Long gone is the predominance of Beaujolais Nouveau!
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Our two producers featured here include a Moulin-à-Vent family, the Labruyères, who now also own Domaine Jacques Prieur in Meursault and a Volnay family, the Lafarges, whose holdings now stretch to Fleurie. Along with the Côte Chalonnaise and the Jura, the individual crus of Beaujolais have benefitted from increasing interest from established Burgundian producers. In the same way that the Labruyères stress that they make Moulin-à-Vent rather than Beaujolais, for the Lafarges, Fleurie and Chiroubles are very much centre-stage.
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2018 VINTAGE
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
77
DOMAINE LABRUYÈRE
BURGUNDY
FLEURIE, CHIROUBLES & BROUILLY The evocatively named village of Fleurie produces a wine every bit as delicate as its name. One of the ten Beaujolais crus, it is the palest, the prettiest and the most finely perfumed. Sandy soils produce the lightest bodied wines, whilst towards Moulin-à-Vent to the east, clay creeps into the mix, with wines of consequently greater structure. To the other, western, side of Fleurie is Chiroubles, joyfully luminous in character. Côte de Brouilly is further south; its soils are the remains of an ancient volcano.
DOMAINE LAFARGE VIAL Frédéric Lafarge and his wife Chantal established Domaine Lafarge Vial in the spring of 2014. They managed to secure several parcels of vines within Fleurie and one small adjoining parcel of Chiroubles, with buildings within the lieu-dit Bel-Air, in the commune of Fleurie.
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In the course of 2014, Frédéric and Chantal Lafarge were able to make an immediate impact. All of the vineyards are trained in the traditional gobelet method and planted on degraded granite. The Lafarges have practised biodynamics from the outset, mirroring their approach in Volnay, and working towards biodynamic certification in Beaujolais, with the entire estate due to be certified later this year. 2018 yields at the domaine averaged a respectable 32hl/ha – “bien”, as Frédéric Lafarge said. The wines were racked in April and October, before being bottled at the beginning of November.
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2018 VINTAGE
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
FLEURIE
CHIROUBLES
This is a blend of two parcels, Bel-Air and Cercillon, totalling 1.7 hectares. It is delicately structured, with pretty rose aromas, bright raspberry and winter berry fruit and a nice pliancy. Vinified in 350 litre barrels and a large oak foudre, with 25% whole bunch vinification. A joyful, uplifting wine.
Chiroubles is Fleurie’s next door neighbour. Despite being a different cru, this plot lies alongside Bel-Air, which itself is opposite the domaine buildings. This is a tiny parcel of 0.35 hectares. The average vine age is over 45 years. Sweet blackberry fruit, with a lovely purity and a crunch. Brightly fruited style.
Corney & Barrow Score 16.5-17 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2024
Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 Recommended drinking from 2020-2025
£260/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£250/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
FLEURIE LA JOIE DU PALAIS
CÔTE DE BROUILLY
This plot of 60 year old vines is trained in the gobelet method, as is traditional in the region, which Frédéric believes to be the best method. This is a steep 1.2 hectare parcel. Apparently the name alludes to the historical charm and elegance of the site. There is a 50% slope here – almost Mosel levels of steepness! 25% whole bunch vinification. Salinity and a marked mineral tension, above the prettiness we all expect from Fleurie. Aged in 8-9 year old oak.
This is a 0.66 hectare plot of 65 year old vines, planted on very hard blue granite soils. Brouilly is a more structured, forceful cru. This has less of the upfront perfume and aromatic charm of the Fleuries, but more intricacy of structure and evident ageing potential.
Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2026 £275/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £285/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
FLEURIE CLOS VERNAY This is a south-east facing parcel of 1.33 hectares sited higher up, on the first slope in Fleurie, approaching from Moulin-à-Vent. It is quite steep (20% gradient), the vineyard surrounded by a hectare of meadow and woodland. The vines, which range from 36 to 46 years, are planted on granite and quartz soils, perhaps contributing to the mineral tension which pervades this wine. The 25% whole bunch vinification seems to be a little more marked, giving a very bright red cherried aspect. Corney & Barrow Score 16 Recommended drinking from 2020–2026 £290/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £300/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
Corney & Barrow Score 16.5+ Recommended drinking from 2021–2026+ £290/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £300/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
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BURGUNDY
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2018 VINTAGE
MOULIN-À-VENT
DOMAINE LABRUYÈRE
The only commune in Beaujolais which belongs administratively to Burgundy rather than the Rhône. A bureaucrat’s splitting of hairs perhaps, but growers here would claim a difference in mind-set and indeed the wines can appear uncannily Pinot Noir-like. Here, granite meets heavier, clay-based soils, contributing to wines of greater structure and ageing potential.
Domaine Labruyère is the oldest estate in Moulin-à-Vent, dating back to 1850. The original ten hectares have been added to over the years. The most significant acquisition was that of Le Clos du Moulin-à-Vent, the appellation’s only monopole, situated beside the iconic windmill. Since 2008, the property has been run by Édouard Labruyère, the seventh generation. Édouard grew up here and now works alongside winemaker Nadine Gublin and cellar master Michel Rovere. Five wines make up the core of the domaine: Cœur de Terroir, Champ de Cour (arguably one of the greatest terroirs of Beaujolais and the only one to be 100% whole bunch vinified), Le Carquelin and Le Clos du Moulin-àVent, with the addition last year of a regional Bourgogne Gamay. Corney & Barrow has been the exclusive UK agent for Domaine Labruyère since the 2013 vintage. The 2018s will be released shortly.
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MOULIN-À-VENT
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
81
ÉDOUARD LABRUYÈRE EDOUARD LABRUYÈRE
BURGUNDY
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2018 VINTAGE
CONTACT US
Our Locations
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