ETS. JEAN-PIERRE MOUEIX 2018 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR EXCLUSIVE TO CORNEY & BARROW IN THE UK
“2018’s record sunshine in Bordeaux offered little shade, thus inducing wines of opulent brilliance.” CHRISTIAN MOUEIX June 2019
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THE 2018 VINTAGE: STAND OUT OF MY SUN What do Alexander the Great, Diogenes of Sinope and Bordeaux 2018 have in common? One of the smaller pleasures of our annual Moueix tasting in Libourne is pondering the family’s choice of quote for their carefully prepared tasting booklet…
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“Stand out of my sun” Diogenes of Sinope, to Alexander the Great
Alexander magnanimously offered to grant a favour to the philosopher Diogenes, of whom he had heard positive reports. Resting in the afternoon sun, the ancient Greek, who was also known as Diogenes the Cynic, is said to have replied with these words.
vineyards to avoid a spring frost. A successful flowering period from 23rd to 30th May heralded a potentially large crop. Volume expectations were then lowered by the onset of downy mildew, a fungus-like growth on grapes and leaves which damages them and blocks photosynthesis.
You don’t have to be Sherlock Holmes to make the connection with the 1,136 hours of sun between June and September 2018 – a fifty year record. This prolonged sunshine came after a miserably moist spring, which caused severe outbreaks of mildew, only staved off by heroic vineyard work.
Having successfully battled the mildew and as rain gave way to sunshine, the 60-strong Moueix vineyard team turned its attention to crop-thinning, fine-tuning the vines’ productivity levels to their specific ages and terroirs. Across the Moueix properties, a total 16,800 hours of painstaking vineyard work went into the 2018 vintage.
These 2018 are wines for the long term. There is no heaviness though – the tannins are ample but beautifully supple and there is an uplifting freshness. Christian Moueix, who is not given to hyperbole, says 2018 will rank among the best vintages he has made. Praise indeed.
The split personality of the season can be seen from the rainfall figures. From April to June, 183mm of rain fell in Pomerol and 237mm in Saint-Émilion. In Édouard Moueix’s words, “not more rain than usual, but constant rain.” By contrast, July to September saw 104mm in Pomerol and just 98mm in Saint-Émilion. If ever the well-worn “game of two halves” were appropriate… This was, after all, the summer of France’s World Cup victory.
The one saving grace of the cool, rainy winter and spring was that bud-break came late, on 9th April, allowing the Moueix
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They say that “août fait le moût” – the month of August determines the quality of the grape must (and so of the vintage). 2018 can be seen as a clear example of this. The ripeness and suppleness of tannin, the boldness of structure of these wines can be traced, it is tempting to imagine, directly to the nurturing warmth and sunlight of August 2018. Harvest began on 14th September in Pomerol and on the 18th in Saint-Émilion, finishing on 3rd and 4th October respectively, picking only in the mornings in order to avoid the afternoon heat. It was, according to Édouard, “a very easy harvest, ‘Californian’ in the sense that we had the luxury of being able to wait for ripeness.” When pressed by Adam to compare the vintage to a film (do watch our interview online), Édouard suggested Lawrence of Arabia – “a crossing of the desert.”
And so what of the wines themselves? They are chock-full of personality, the structural components cranked up to 10 but, crucially, there is a sense of harmony, or at least an indication of balance to come. The tannins are beautiful – polished and supple, despite the heady phenolic levels. Of recent vintages, it has more in common with 2016 (the “thinking man’s 2010”, as we called it) than 2015. It is certainly in the same quality bracket. Perhaps most importantly, the character of each estate leaps from the glass: the volume and sweet succulence of Hosanna, the perfume and drive of La Fleur Pétrus, the limestone tension of Bélair-Monange and the nuanced muscularity of Trotanoy. The same is true at the other end of the spectrum: our go-to Saint-Émilion Barry White (Barrail du Blanc) and the pure, unadorned De Sales, to name just two. All joyously true to type, starting out on lives which will give great pleasure in years to come.
GUY SEDDON June 2019
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EDOUARD MOUEIX Credit to Benjamin Duvignac
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THE ALLOCATION PROCESS The nature of En Primeur means stocks are limited. We use our exclusive relationships to secure as much as possible. You can always order with confidence from Corney & Barrow.
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• The focus of Éts. Jean-Pierre Moueix and Corney & Barrow is on the private customer and as a consumer rather than a speculator.
• Priority will be given to Éts. Jean-Pierre Moueix and Corney & Barrow’s best, most loyal and most regular customers.
• These wines are bought on the clear understanding that they will be stored and delivered in the UK only.
Confirmation of your order will be through receipt of invoice.
• Orders should be balanced across the range of wines.
As detailed above, all orders are conditional upon UK storage only.
• Should you wish to sell the wines in the future, do please offer Corney & Barrow first refusal as this will ensure the integrity of secondary market distribution, something which is of great concern to Ets. Jean-Pierre Moueix.
Do please speak to our sales team, who will be delighted to help you further.
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2018 TASTING NOTES By Adam Brett-Smith Wines tasted at Ets. J-P Moueix, Quai du Priourat, Saturday 30th March 2019
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Château Barrail du Blanc
Clos La Madeleine
We thought the 2016 was the best ever “Barry White”, better even than 2015, but this 2018 trumps both. It is a delight. Just 7 hectares in size, located in Saint-Sulpice de Faleyrens and with a mixture of light gravel and clay this has an impressively dense colour and what I described as a “fat” vinous nose of plumpest, bright red fruit. The palate is sweet, densely ripe with a startling fresh purity and concentration and super length. Delectable, the best Barry White to date and everything you could ever expect from a Grand Cru Saint-Émilion. Oh, and it is ridiculous value.
Released for the first time last year (the Moueix family acquired it in September 2017), this is a spectacular vintage to mark their purchase. Just 2.3 hectares (5.6 acres) in size it lies immediately below the old Château Magdelaine vineyard and of course neighbours the great 1er Cru Bélair-Monange. Firm ruby colour. The nose is sweetly fruited but subtly refined, vinous (that word again). The palate has a silken density, a lovely medium weight concentration and an appealing lift and freshness on the finish. We are proud to have the largest allocation of this minute property.
Corney & Barrow Score 17-18 Recommended drinking from 2021 - 2025
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5++ Recommended drinking from 2022 - 2026
£199/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£360/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£209/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
£370/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
Saint-Émilion Grand Cru
Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé
£108/CASE OF 1 DOUBLE MAGNUM, IN BOND UK £209/CASE OF 24 HALVES, IN BOND UK
Vineyard size : 2.3 hectares (5.6 acres)
Vineyard size :
Soil types:
7 hectares (17 acres)
Clay on limestone
Soil types:
Vineyard grape varietals:
Gravel and clay
76% Merlot
Vineyard grape varietals:
24% Cabernet Franc
70% Merlot 30% Cabernet Franc
To Order LONDON
020 7265 2430 EDINBURGH
01875 321 921 sales@corneyandbarrow.com PLEASE NOTE These wines are released en primeur. Delivery dates to be confirmed. All prices are quoted in bond UK.
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Clos Saint-Martin
Château de Bel-Air
Our relationship with this even smaller (1.3 hectare-3 acres) property goes back to 1987 and Sophie Fourcade is an old friend of us all. Here the soil is classic clay on limestone as befits a vineyard that neighbours both 1er Grand Cru Beau-Séjour Bécot and Beauséjour DuffauLagarrosse and gazes at Angélus on the plains below. This is a big wine that wears its weight well and ages beautifully. Profound, opaque ruby colour. Soaked black and red fruits on the nose touched by mint and earth. The palate has terrific rich dry extract and density, sweet concentration and a fine, chewy weighted finish. Great wine.
We really like this satellite Pomerol, one of the very, very few to have Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend alongside the more traditional Cabernet Franc and of course Merlot. This gives the otherwise plump profile a lift and a freshness that this 2018 particularly seems to relish. Bright ruby colour. The nose is charming (why does that sound patronising when it is so lovely?) with a bright, bubbly red fruit perfume with a hint of mint. Sweet on entry, the palate is plump with excellent medium weight concentration and chewy, fresh length. A snip.
Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé
Lalande-de-Pomerol
Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 - 17 Recommended drinking from 2020 - 2024
£475/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £485/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
£195/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £97.50/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2030
£205/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK Vineyard size :
12
Vineyard size :
15 hectares (37 acres)
1.3 hectares (3 acres)
Soil types:
Soil types:
Quaternary gravel on clay, iron-rich subsoil
Clay on limestone
Vineyard grape varietals:
Vineyard grape varietals:
73% Merlot
75% Merlot
19% Cabernet Franc
15% Cabernet Franc
8% Cabernet Sauvignon
10% Cabernet Sauvignon
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Château Lagrange
Château Plince
We love this property, acquired by the Moueix family in 1959 and given a massive increase to an always delectable quality by the incorporation in 2015 of some 4 hectares of the fabled La Fleur-Pétrus. It is also 100% Merlot which is very, very rare in Pomerol. This is the best ever Lagrange, better than 2015 and 2016. Deepest ruby in colour. Fresh, summer pudding wine, with arterially dark, inky, richly vinoused nose. “Happy” I wrote in the margin which does little to describe the beautifully rich, coated palate which is both supple and concentrated and of fine, fine length. Quite lovely.
This is another beautifully resolved, reasonably priced Pomerol, neighbour of both Château Nenin and Château La Pointe. Deep ruby colour. The nose is earthily fruited, with a dark almost gun oil perfume nicely framed in oak. The balance of the palate is almost perfect with a creamy density matched by beautifully extracted structure and a lift of freshness to the finish. Lovely wine.
Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2022 - 2026
£345/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
Pomerol
£375/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £385/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK £187.50/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK Vineyard size : 9 hectares (22 acres) Soil types: Gravel on clay and old, deep, blue clay Vineyard grape varietals: 100% Merlot
Pomerol
Corney & Barrow Score 17 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2022 - 2026
£172.50/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £355/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK Vineyard size : 8.5 hectares (21 acres) Soil types: Dark soil on iron pan Vineyard grape varietals: 79% Merlot 21% Cabernet Franc
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L’Hospitalet de Gazin
Château La Grave
Made from the young vines of Petrus’s immediate neighbour Château Gazin and owned by the ancient de Bailliencourt dit Courcol family this has been another Corney & Barrow exclusivity for many, many years. In a sense tasting this wine after the seductive Plince takes us into a more serious, even sonorous level. Here the nose is subdued, even carapaced at first with only later a honeyed, almost toffee-rich perfume flashing intermittently through. The palate is really well extracted with a supple, chewy density that builds alongside a really quite profound structure – this is a serious wine after all with a noble lineage – to an almost brawny concentration and that characteristic 2018 freshness to the finish. This is a big L’Hospitalet, half monster indeed but wholly impressive.
This is the best La Grave that I can remember, that finesses both the 2015, 2016 and even 2009 which is my favourite vintage. Full, deepest ruby colour. The nose is utterly gorgeous, summer pudding with red, red, red creamy fruit, supple, sexy and proud (well, that’s what I wrote), achingly lovely. The palate is seamlessly reflective of the nose, with rounded, swellingly supple fruit, a medium dense concentration, perfect balance of structure and a fresh sweet burst of flavour to the long finish. Gorgeous wine.
Pomerol
Pomerol
Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2030 £470/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £485/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2028
£242.50/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK £205/CASE OF 1 DOUBLE MAGNUM, IN BOND UK
£399/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
Vineyard size :
£409/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
8 hectares (19.5 acres)
£175/CASE OF 1 DOUBLE MAGNUM, IN BOND UK
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Soil types: Gravel and fine clay
Vineyard size :
Vineyard grape varietals:
26 hectares (63.7 acres)
85% Merlot
Soil types: Gunzian gravel; subsoil of green and blue clay with iron oxides
15% Cabernet Franc
Vineyard grape varietals: 90% Merlot 7% Cabernet Sauvignon 3% Cabernet Franc
Tasting Guide Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. For the benefit of simplicity, wines are scored out of 20. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score. Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.
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Château Bourgneuf
Château Latour à Pomerol
I cannot think of a greater contrast to Château La Grave than this brooding Bourgneuf, situated on the slope of the Pomerol plateau and very close to Trotanoy itself with whom it shares some of that gravel–clay soil. But there is some elegance as well from the lighter, sandier parts of the lower vineyard, and this balances the almost brutish power of the blend. Opaque ruby colour. The nose is inky-dark, almost camphorous and high-toned. The palate is sweet on entry then massive, almost brutish (that word again) in its concentration with a real attack in its chewy, fresh, powerful flavours to a finally sweet, gustily long finish. This is an ambitiously powerful Bourgneuf which may just tip into greatness.
This is another magnificent result for this fabled property, managing to shade both the 2015 and 2016 and once again in the running for the best young Latour that I have ever tasted. Deepest ruby colour. The nose offers flashes of profoundly dark, inky, cool cavern fruit, so vinous, so latent with power. The palate is gorgeous, effortlessly silken, coating the mouth with layered, dry rich velvet fruit, concentrated, profoundly flavoured and with a lovely flare of freshness to the finish. This is a very great Latour.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2030
£445/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
Pomerol
£460/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £470/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK £235/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK Vineyard size : 9 hectares (22 acres)
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Soil types: Gravel and clay, iron-rich subsoil Vineyard grape varietals: 80% Merlot 20% Cabernet Franc
Pomerol
Corney & Barrow Score 18 (18+) Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2030+
£455/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK £345/CASE OF 1 DOUBLE MAGNUM, IN BOND UK Vineyard size : 8 hectares (19.5 acres) Soil types: Deep gravel and clay (2/3) Clay and loam (1/3) Vineyard grape varietals: 100% Merlot
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Château Gazin
Château Certan de May
After the excellence of L’Hospitalet this takes us further into the latent (I wrote tip of the iceberg in the margin) power of a Grand Vin. This is truly carapaced on the nose with only an intermittent perfume of tarry, tightly packed red fruit, with flashes of toffee/coffeed richness. After Latour this offers a more earthly density, a sort of nonchalant grace of sweet, supple concentration but with a finish that hints at profundity and greatness. My score may be conservative.
The legendary Jean-Claude Berrouet (father of Olivier Berrouet of Petrus and of course himself winemaker at that greatest of Pomerols from 1964 to 2008) has been consultant at Certan de May since 2013 and it shows. The Scottish de May family were gifted this ancient property by the French crown in the 16th Century for services rendered – the precise nature of those services is not clear, but may indeed have been against perfidious Albion. The vineyard is beautifully sited on Pomerol’s famous central plateau surrounded by both Vieux Chateau Certan and La Fleur-Pétrus. Just 5.5 hectares (13.5 acres) in size and with high Cabernet (30%) content this is perhaps the most distinctively perfumed of Pomerols. So it is in 2018 with a stylish, inky black scent touched by leaf and mint tea. The palate is a delight, supple, creamy and freshly concentrated, with beautifully layered flavours and a chewy, long finish. The best Certan de May that I have tasted.
Pomerol
Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2029 £380/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £385/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK £295/CASE OF 1 DOUBLE MAGNUM, IN BOND UK Vineyard size : 26 hectares (63.7 acres) Soil types: Gunzian gravel; subsoil of green and blue clay with iron oxides Vineyard grape varietals:
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90% Merlot 7% Cabernet Sauvignon 3% Cabernet Franc
Pomerol
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2030 £520/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £530/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK £395/CASE OF 1 DOUBLE MAGNUM, IN BOND UK Vineyard size : 5.5 hectares (13.5 acres) Soil types: Clay and deep gravel Vineyard grape varietals: 70% Merlot 25% Cabernet Franc 5% Cabernet Sauvignon
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Château Hosanna
Château La Fleur-Pétrus
In the ‘golden triangle’ of Vieux Château Certan, Certan de May and what was Certan Giraud, Hosanna, acquired in 1999 is on the highest part of the Pomerol plateau and is the heart of that vineyard, the remaining plots been sold off. In 2016 I referred to the ‘heart on sleeve’ quality of this tiny estate and this 2018 possesses that same effortless grace, perhaps more so, particularly on the nose which has a leafy, blackcurrant and cream perfume, cool and summery yet plump and seductive. ‘Awesome really’ I scribbled in the margin. The palate is… lush, with an achingly beautiful sense of effortless extraction, is ripe, perfectly ripe and with a casual profundity to the finish which is delectably fresh, pure and long. Gorgeous.
This wine rivals the memorable 2015 (my favourite recent vintage) without that great wine’s sense of calm. Instead we have a sense of compressed profundity a super-rich vinous red fruited perfume of impossible refinement. This continues on the palate with silken dense fruit, powerful in a way rarely seen at La Fleur-Pétrus and yet possessed of an extraordinarily concentrated, effortless purity. The finish flares (or should that be flames) brightly, almost fiercely and lasts seemingly minutes. Lovely, lovely wine.
Pomerol
Corney & Barrow Score 18+ Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2030 £625/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £635/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK £460/CASE OF 1 DOUBLE MAGNUM, IN BOND UK Vineyard size : 4.5 hectares (11 acres) Soil types: Blue clay on red gravel, iron-rich subsoil Vineyard grape varietals: 70% Merlot 30% Cabernet Franc
Pomerol
Corney & Barrow Score 18 - 18.5+ Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2030+ £995/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £1,005/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK £715/CASE OF 1 DOUBLE MAGNUM, IN BOND UK Vineyard size : 18.7 hectares (46 acres) Soil types: Deep gravel and clay on iron-rich subsoil Vineyard grape varietals: 91% Merlot 6% Cabernet Franc 3% Petit Verdot
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2018 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR
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Château Bélair-Monange
Château Trotanoy
I cannot think of a more fabulously different wine to taste alongside (or in my case before) Château Trotanoy. At first you think it is just light, despite its almost shockingly pure, inky, silken black red fruit perfume but then you realise that the power is held in a ‘Superleggera’ structure of such refinement that that power is suborned into an effortless elegance. All rather fanciful perhaps but these Moueix wines are tasted in one long, continuous flow of absolute concentration – and silence. The palate coats the mouth with that same silken concentration, a density that is not massive but very pure with super refined rich/dry power and a finish that is sustained and stunningly fresh. Great wine.
2018 does not impose itself on Trotanoy, rather does this great vineyard embrace all the very finest qualities of a growing season that was made in heaven (along with some 16,800 hours of meticulous vineyard husbandry by the Moueix team). It is as if the wet winter and spring, so vital for the water table and so beautifully metered by Trotanoy’s dense soil during the hot, dry and sunny summer conspired to produce a wine that will doubtless pass into legend.
Premier Grand Cru Classé, Saint-Émilion
Pomerol
Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2035+ £700/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £710/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
Huge ruby colour. The nose is massive, latent, cloaked in darkest, profoundly rich, red fruit perfume. ‘Wine from another era’ in the very best sense. Extraordinary. The palate is deceptive, silken, supple, coated with fruit but with profound extract underneath with a dry, dense power that builds seemingly endlessly. This wine and its mass are not so much fresh as lifted so that the weight is borne in perfect balance. This is a majestic Trotanoy, pretty much incomparable in stature to any other great wine I tasted in this vintage.
Vineyard size : 23.5 hectares (57.5 acres)
Corney & Barrow Score 18 - 19 Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2035+
Soil types: Asteriated limestone on the plateau, blue clay on limestone in the slopes
Château Trotanoy will be released later, separately.
Vineyard grape varietals: 90% Merlot
Vineyard size :
10% Cabernet Franc
7.2 hectares (17.5 acres) Soil types: Gravel on clay and black clay on iron pan Vineyard grape varietals: 90% Merlot 10% Cabernet Franc
To Order LONDON
020 7265 2430 EDINBURGH
01875 321 921 sales@corneyandbarrow.com PLEASE NOTE These wines are released en primeur. Delivery dates to be confirmed. All prices are quoted in bond UK.
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2018 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR
CONTACT US Our Locations
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