DOMAINE COMTE GEORGES DE VOGÜÉ 2020 VINTAGE EXCLUSIVE TO CORNEY & BARROW IN THE UNITED KINGDOM
"Exceptionally early, the 2020 vintage is one of concentrated, dense and rich wines, with deep tannic structures" JEAN LUPATELLI, NOVEMBER 2021
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DOMAINE COMTE GEORGES DE VOGÜÉ 2020 VINTAGE “The 2020s are fresh, vibrant, energetic, well-delineated and terroir driven. Cool nights luckily helped preserve acidities and provided a welcome underlying tension.” JEAN-LUC PÉPIN, NOVEMBER 2021 Established in 1450, the domaine is owned today by Comtesse Claire de Causans and Marie de Ladoucette, descendants of the late Comte, who died in 1987. The domaine owns some two thirds of the Musigny Grand Cru vineyard, binding inextricably the names Comte Georges de Vogüé and Musigny. Its other grand cru is Bonnes Mares, the geographical outlier at the northern end of the village, beside Clos de Tart. 2020 is the last vintage of François Millet, who was the domaine’s Technical Director since 1986. His successor is Jean Lupatelli, who started in spring 2021 and will be ably assisted by Eric Bourgogne and Jean-Luc Pépin, longtime Vineyard Manager and Sales & Marketing Director respectively. We are proud to have been the exclusive UK agent of Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé since 2003.
GUY SEDDON March 2022
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HISTORY In the 15th century, Jean Moisson, a wealthy Burgundian, began to acquire vineyards and started construction of the current domaine buildings, as well as the nearby church of Chambolle-Musigny. Several artworks in the church depict members of the Moisson family, ancestors of Comte Georges de Vogüé. The Vogüé family’s name was first recorded in Burgundy in 1766, when Catherine Bouhier de Versalieu married Cerice François Melchior de Vogüé, originally from the Ardèche, where there is still a commune named Vogüé. Keeping the domaine in family ownership through the French Revolution of 1789 cannot have been easy. Certainly the domaine stands out as one of the few which managed this.
THE DOMAINE TODAY In 1925, Comte Georges de Vogüé inherited the vineyards from his father Comte Arthur de Vogüé, since when the domaine has been known as Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé. Comte Georges’ daughter, Elisabeth de Vogüé, married Baron Bertrand de Ladoucette. The couple had two daughters, Claire and Marie de Ladoucette, the current owners of the domaine. Comte Georges de Vogüé died in 1987. In 2002, Claire and Marie de Ladoucette, following the death of their mother, inherited the vineyards and became comanagers of the domaine. Commercial Director Jean-Luc Pépin has been at the domaine since 1988 and Vineyard Manager Éric Bourgogne since 1996. As mentioned above spring 2021, Jean Lupatelli replaced François Millet as Technical Director.
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THE 2020 VINTAGE AT DOMAINE COMTE GEORGES DE VOGÜÉ The below is based on Jean-Luc Pépin’s detailed overview of the 2020 growing season at the domaine. Apart from a few night and morning frosts, January and February were particularly mild, with temperatures well above normal for both months and low rainfall in January.
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March started with disrupted weather followed by a significant warming at mid-month. This led quickly to the phenological ‘bud in cotton’ stage. Luckily, the second half of the month saw the return of a significant cooling, slowing down the bud burst. Following morning temperatures close to 0°C in early April, spring settled. De-budding started very early, on 20th April, and the vegetative cycle speeded up significantly. May was as wet as April had been dry. There were summerlike temperatures at mid-month. Flowering started on 11th May, the mid-point being reached less than a week later, confirming the precocity of the season. Fruit-set occurred soon after. The weather was unstable during first three weeks of June, resulting in coulure (shatter) and millerandage (shot berries). A heatwave caused some scalding of the grapes before more seasonal temperatures returned.
July was generally summery but not scorching, with a gradual véraison observed from early in the month. This reached 50 to 80%, depending on the plot, by month-end. The lack of precipitation over the last three weeks of the month, along with scorching temperatures from the 27th, led to further grillure damage to the berries. The first two weeks of August were scorching, with no rain, and the health of the vines remained optimal. Some shrivelled berries were observed in all sectors, due to scalding in the last days of July; these had to be eliminated. When tasting the berries, the sugars were immediately present in the mouth, with a dominant tangy note. The skins were thick, with juices which started to release well in the mouth. Harvest took place from 24th to 31st August. Conditions were good until the 27th, with some disturbances the following days. Due to the lack of rainfall and heatwaves, yields fell dramatically compared to the previous vintage, by 40-50% for some appellations.
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Jean-Luc Pépin (left) and Jean Lupatelli (right)
2020 VINTAGE TASTING NOTES
MUSIGNY BLANC GRAND CRU
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY
Newly installed winemaker Jean Lupatelli endeared himself to us immediately by offering us a taste of this rarest of white grands crus. Joyful aromas of green citrus, freshly cut grass and green melons which, with time in the glass, reveal a more classical white stone-fruit core. The palate is crunchy and textured, with fine white peach, honeysuckle and apricot. Magical. Just seven barrels have been made.
This comes from two premiers crus vineyards – Les Baudes (0.13 hectares) and Les Fuées (0.15ha) – plus 1.8ha of villages vines, in Les Porlottes, Les Jutruots and La Taupe. These last three are clustered together, to the south of the village. A darkly berried, intense nose leads into a precise palate with an impressive depth of briny blackcurrant and bitter cherry fruit, all framed by supple tannins. You can feel the warmth of 2020, yet this comes with a fresh counterbalance of acidity.
Corney & Barrow Score 18 - 19 Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2035 £920/Case of 1 bottle, in bond UK
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2036 £600/Case of 3 bottles, in bond UK £410/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK
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CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 1ER CRU
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 1ER CRU LES AMOUREUSES
This wine, made from the ‘young’ (up to around 25 years old) vines of Musigny, is a favourite. Age is against us here, as growing numbers of young vines warrant inclusion in the grand cru every year, meaning it now comes from under half a hectare. Aromatically, this has a winning lightness of touch, red fruited and elegant. The palate revels in raspberry and wild strawberry, with plushly fruit-coated tannins. Tender and luminous, with chalky minerality and a long, perfumed finish. Sensual, très Chambolle.
Most of the domaine’s 0.56 hectares of Amoureuses are in one parcel (planted 1964) below Musigny, at the southern end of this nearly pure-limestone vineyard, with a smaller plot to the north (planted 1974). A more dark-fruited Amoureuses on the nose this year. The palate is rich on the entry before beguiling rose perfume reveals itself, alongside the fine chalky mineral tension of the limestone. Silky, crystalline, ethereal, a spirit of the air… Only three barrels have been made.
Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2038+ £875/Case of 3 bottles, in bond UK £595/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2040 £600/Case of 1 bottle, in bond UK
BONNES-MARES GRAND CRU
MUSIGNY VIEILLES VIGNES GRAND CRU
Jean Lupatelli suggested we taste Bonnes Mares after the Chambolle-Musigny villages, which makes sense stylistically. A deeper purple colour here transports us to the other end of the village, to the “place of woods and mountains”, as François Millet (winemaker 1986-2021) referred to it. Darker forest fruits, with heather and bramble, cherry and bright violet aromas. The tannins are powerful and work together with a dark stony minerality and a briny finish. I jotted down ‘aristocratic’ – which, come to think of it, sums it up quite well…
The domaine owns 7.12 hectares of Musigny’s total 10.85. Deep, profound ruby colour. Powerful dark berry aromas, with bitter cherry and rocky minerality. The palate is cool and focused on the entry, with a building sense of perfume, volume and – most crucially – a firm chalky grip, the tannin and mineral bedrock somehow fused. Powerful and assertive, with wonderfully fresh acidity. Jean Lupatelli, in a nice nod to his predecessor, whose last vintage this was, summed it up as “a cool lake – as François would have said”.
Corney & Barrow Score 18+ Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2038+
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2032 - 2042
£1,825/Case of 3 bottles, in bond UK £1,230/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK
£2,625/Case of 3 bottles, in bond UK £1,760/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK
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Tasting Guide Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. For the benefit of simplicity, wines are scored out of 20. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score. Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.
cr u s
To Morey-Saint-Denis
To Dijon
s gra nds
N
Rou te d e
LES BONNES MARES LES VÉROILLES
LES DRAZEY
LES LAVROTTES
LES FUÉES
LES FREMIÊRES
LES NOIROTS
LES FUÉES
LES GAMAIRES
LES BUSSIÈRES
LES BAUDES
2020
LES CRAS
RN74
LES SENTIERS
LES HERBUES
LES CHARDANNES
AUX BEAUX LES BRUNS GROSEILLES
LES CRAS
LES ATHETS
AUX ECHANGES
LES CHATELOTS
AUX COMBOTTES
AUX CROIX LES MALADIÈRES
LES PLANTES LES CLOS
LES FEUSELOTTES DERNERES LE FOUR
LES JUTRUOTS
LES ECHÉZEAUX LES GOÉRIPPES
LES PORLOTTES LA TAUPE
LES CREUXBAISSANTS
LES PAS DE CHAT LES CHARMES LES FOUCHÈRES
LES ARGILLERES
LES DANGUERRINS
LES MOMBIERS
LES CLOS DE I’OME
LES CHARMES
LES BORNIQUES
LES MAI CARRÉES
LES SORDES
LES BARBILLÈRES LES CONDEMENNES LES NAZOIRES
LES CHABIOTS LES AMOUREUSES
LES MUSIGNY
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To Citeaux
2020 To Beaune LES PETITS MUSIGNY
LA TAUPE
To N uits-Saint-Georges
2020
LA COMBE D’ORVEAU
LA COMBE D’ORVEAU 500m
0
Vineyard Holdings 2020 Vintage
Average Age of Vines
2020 Production (doz)
Yield (hectolitres per hectare)
Vineyard Holdings (hectares)
Musigny Blanc Grand Cru
25 years
148
20.49
0.65
Chambolle-Musigny
40 years
253
10.89
2.09
including Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
62/53 years (Les Baudes/Les Fuées)
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
20 years
237
36.15
0.49
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses
40 years
71
11.41
0.56
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru
43 years
312
10.56
2.66
Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru
46 years
733
11.22
5.88
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THE ALLOCATION PROCESS We are often asked by customers for guidance on the quantities they should order. All of the domaine’s wines are allocated. Our suggestion is that you simply order what you would ideally like to receive. To order, please call or email your usual sales contact.
• The domaine’s and Corney & Barrow’s focus is on the private customer and as a consumer rather than a speculator. • The domaine’s wines are bought on the clear understanding that they will be stored and delivered in the UK only.
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• Should you wish to sell the wine in the future, do please offer Corney & Barrow first refusal as this will ensure the integrity of secondary market distribution, something which is of great concern to the domaine. • Priority will be given to the domaine’s and Corney & Barrow’s best, most loyal and most regular customers. • We will do our best to accommodate newer customers. To help in this, we have a range of older vintages in stock to help begin a collection. • May we please have your order by Friday 18th March. • Allocations will be completed by Friday 25th March. Confirmation of order will be through receipt of invoice and the wines will be delivered or put into your reserve on payment. • As outlined, all orders are conditional upon UK storage only. • May we please request that invoices are paid in full by Wednesday 27th April. In all fairness, we reserve the right to re-allocate your order to other customers on the waiting list if payment is not received by this time. • Do please speak to our sales team, who will be delighted to help you further.
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RECOMMENDED DRINKING DATES We are regularly asked for more specific drinking dates for Burgundies, in particular from the great domaines. Here, therefore, are specific recommendations on every vintage since and including 2003 when we took on UK representation for Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé. For your interest and reference we have included our original recommendations made at the launch of the new vintages. Of course taste is an extremely personal thing, but having tasted and analysed these wines extensively over the last few years, we believe that opening them at the dates indicated will ensure maximum enjoyment. REVISED DRINKING DATES
* Musigny Blanc
ChambolleMusigny
ChambolleMusigny 1er Cru
ChambolleMusigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru
Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru
2003
Now
Now
Now
Now
Now
Now
2004
Now
Now
Now
Now
Now
Now - 2024
2005
Now
Now
Now
Now
Now - 2026
See below
2006
Now
Now
Now
Now - 2025
Now - 2025
See below
2007
Now
Now
Now
See below
See below
See below
2008
Now
Now
Now
Now - 2026
See below
See below
2009
Now
Now
See below
See below
See below
See below
2010
Now
Now - 2025
See below
See below
See below
See below
2011
Now
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
2012
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
2013
Now - 2023
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
2014
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
2015
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
2016
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
2017
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
2018
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
2019
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
ORIGINAL DRINKING DATES
* Musigny Blanc
ChambolleMusigny
ChambolleMusigny 1er Cru
ChambolleMusigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru
Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru
2003
From 2008
From 2009
Now - 2009
From 2010
From 2014
Now - 2015
2004
2010 - 2013
2009 - 2011
2011 - 2015
2013 - 2016
2015 - 2020
2017 - 2021
2005
2009 - 2015
2012 - 2015+
2012 - 2017+
2013 - 2018+
2015 - 2020+
2018 - 2025
2006
2009 - 2014
2011 - 2014
2011 - 2017
2013 - 2020
2015 - 2020+
2017 - 2025
2007
2011 - 2015
2010 - 2012
2013 - 2016+
2016 - 2025
2015 - 2025
2015 - 2025
2008
2012 - 2016
2014 - 2018
2016 - 2020
2018 - 2020
2017 - 2022
2020 - 2030
2009
2013 - 2020
2014 - 2020
2018 - 2025
2019 - 2025+
2022 - 2025
2022 - 2030+
2010
2015 - 2020+
2016 - 2024
2015 - 2028
2020 - 2025
2022 - 2030
2022 - 2032+
2011
2016 - 2021+
2017 - 2025
2016 - 2030
2020 - 2026
2023 - 2030+
2022 - 2033
2012
2017 - 2022
2018 - 2026
2018 - 2030
2021 - 2030
2020 - 2035
2024 - 2040
2013
2017 - 2021
2017 - 2025
2017 - 2027
2019 - 2028+
2020 - 2030+
2025 - 2035
2014
2017 - 2023
2018 - 2026
2018 - 2030
2019 - 2028+
2025 - 2035+
2016 - 2035+
2015
2018 - 2024
2019 - 2027+
2019 - 2030+
2020 - 2030+
2020 - 2036+
2027 - 2037+
2016
2018 - 2024
2021 - 2030
2022 - 2030+
2027 - 2035+
2030 - 2040
2030 - 2040+
2017
2019 - 2025
2022 - 2030
2023 - 2030+
2027 - 2034+
2025 - 2035+
2030 - 2040+
2018
2021 - 2031
2023 - 2032
2024 - 2032+
2028 - 2035+
2026 - 2036+
2032 - 2042+
2019
2022 - 2032
2024 - 2034
2026 - 2036+
2029 - 2039
2027 - 2037+
2033 - 2043
* Bourgogne Blanc pre-2015
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CONTACT US
LONDON 1 Thomas More Street London E1W 1YZ T +44 (0)20 7265 2400 sales@corneyandbarrow.com
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