CHÂTEAU DE LA TOUR & DOMAINE PIERRE LABET 2020 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR EXCLUSIVE TO CORNEY & BARROW IN THE UK AND SINGAPORE
CHÂTEAU DE LA TOUR & DOMAINE PIERRE LABET 2020
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“2020 was... agreeably surprising. Hot and dry for sure, yet fresh, concentrated and precise.” FRANÇOIS LABET, NOVEMBER 2021
CHÂTEAU DE LA TOUR & DOMAINE PIERRE LABET 2020
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Château de la Tour
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CHÂTEAU DE LA TOUR & DOMAINE PIERRE LABET The wines of these two Labet family estates reside in the historic cellars of Château de la Tour in the Clos de Vougeot. Château de la Tour, established in 1890, was passed down from François Labet’s mother’s family and is the largest proprietor of the Clos de Vougeot. Domaine Pierre Labet, whose origins date from 15th century Beaune, was founded in its current form by François’ father. The Labet family approach involves a high proportion of whole-bunch vinification of Pinot Noir, relatively early picking of Chardonnay and long élevage in barrel, in the fairy-tale Château de la Tour, one of only three buildings in the Clos-Vougeot. Will Monroe and I visited father-and-son team François and Édouard Labet last October for a thorough tasting of their 2020s, following up with a lunch and video interview [watch here] with Édouard a couple of days later. Beside his vigneron duties, François has been president of the Vins de Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB) since 2015 and was awarded the Légion d'honneur in 2019 for nearly 40 years of service to Burgundy. Édouard, son to François and Myriam Labet, is now a key team member, in the vines, the cellar, and increasingly as a face of the domaine. The highly regarded Sylvain Pataille is the family’s longstanding consultant winemaker. The 2020s of both estates are sensitively made wines, which showcase their terroir characters whilst retaining a highly impressive sense of elegance. The Clos can produce prodigiously long-ageing, powerful wines, yet these 2020s have a beguiling lightness of touch. Corney & Barrow is exclusive agent for both Château de la Tour and Domaine Pierre Labet in the United Kingdom and Singapore. As of the 2020 vintage, we are proud also to represent both domaines in mainland China.
GUY SEDDON January 2022
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CHÂTEAU DE LA TOUR & DOMAINE PIERRE LABET 2020
THE 2020 SEASON, IN THE WORDS OF ÉDOUARD LABET 2020 appears to be following a new standard: two seasons made of a long autumn/no winter, and a long and hot spring/ summer. We had a lack of water from early spring through to harvest, but fortunately, the nights remained cool, which might explain how the vines coped well with the dry and hot conditions.
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We did have some vines that suffered hydric stress, particularly in Gevrey, but elsewhere we didn’t have significant problems. Most of our vines are ‘vieilles vignes’, which is to say at least 60 years old, with developed root systems and therefore did not suffer as much as we would have expected. Perhaps the biggest issue was that flowering didn’t go particularly well. This, more than any other factor, accounted for the generally lower yields that we had in 2020. They were similar to 2019, which is to say about 30 hl/ha. Whole cluster fermentation has been part of our winemaking DNA since the late ‘80s, when my father started work on replicating the domaine’s pre-war wines. In these ripe ‘solar’ vintages, it makes even more sense as the stems, when picked ripe enough, bring freshness, very fine herbaceous notes such as mint and liquorice. Of course, each plot requires specific attention: this is how we vinified our Gevrey-Chambertin village, the wine that suffered the most from the drought, by reducing significantly the proportion of whole clusters as the synergy between grapes and stems needed to be carefully balanced (the stem character should not take over the fruit).
For me, the key factor to achieve what we wanted, which is to produce great wines, was to pick at the right maturity. With such an early season, we originally thought we might pick as early as 22nd August, but the heat and drought caused some of the vines to shut down, and particularly so in Gevrey, so the maturities – of the grapes and even more importantly, the stems – were delayed somewhat. We knew the grapes could start to shrivel but rains were forecast at the end of that week, which we knew could make a big difference. Ultimately, we began on the 27th and there was a small storm on the 28th that dropped around 20mm of rain – just enough to plump up the fruit. As such, our yields were reasonably good at 30 hl/ha, about equal to 2019, though less than the 35-38 hl/ha in 2018. Potential alcohols were very reasonable, ranging from 12.7 to 13.5%. The skins were extremely thick with many shot berries (millerandage), so we chose to do a very soft vinification, without sulphur, and 20-80% whole clusters while vinifying very softly. It was clear from the outset there was a high degree of extractability. As for the wines, they’re clearly structured and built to age but not so much so that they will be unapproachable after a few years of bottling ageing. They are rich, flattering, and have dense but fine and pliant tannins. We are extremely happy with the results, and we would gladly take this vintage every year (especially after what we have experienced in 2021).
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Édouard Labet
CHÂTEAU DE LA TOUR & DOMAINE PIERRE LABET 2020
CHÂTEAU DE LA TOUR Château de la Tour, established in 1890, is the largest proprietor of the Clos-Vougeot, with 5.5 hectares, or 11% of the appellation. The domaine is owned by François Labet and his aunt Nicole Déchelette. The majority of the vines are grouped in two parcels close to the château building, with another smaller holding higher on the slope, bordering Echézeaux. This has been recently replanted, using massal selection as always here.
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The vines have an average age of nearly 70 years, with a one hectare plot planted in 1910 at their heart. The domaine has been organic since 1992. Yields are controlled by rubbing out every second bud, which gives a well aerated canopy and which François and chef de culture Cyril Beutot prefer to green harvesting.
Father and son: François and Édouard Labet
Grape sorting with secateurs takes place once the grapes arrive from the vineyards, with whole bunches loaded into the fermentation vats and then cooled to around 6°C for a week. Fermentation starts spontaneously, following which a maximum temperature of 29°C is maintained. Once fermentation ends, the wine is racked off immediately into barrel to avoid any astringency in these most robust of Pinot Noirs. Around 50% new oak is used for the Cuvée Classique and Vieilles Vignes.
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THE WINES CLOS-VOUGEOT GRAND CRU, CUVÉE CLASSIQUE
CLOS-VOUGEOT GRAND CRU, VIEILLES VIGNES
The Cuvée Classique comes mainly from old vines in the upper sections of the Clos-Vougeot. Serene, elegant aromas of raspberry and rose petals – the Clos can do beguiling delicacy, you know... The palate is particularly refined on the entry, opening onto a resonant, mediumbodied palate, with fine, gently grippy tannins. 50-60% whole bunch fermentation translates into elegant exotic spices. 50% new oak.
This is a selection of old vines from the domaine’s two main parcels, including the 1910 plot at its heart. A minimum 70 years of age is the threshold here – over a third of the domaine’s holdings qualify. 70-80% whole cluster, which comes through in aromas of tea leaves and white pepper spice. The palate is cool and focused on the entry, with a spicy delicacy overlaying the rich raspberry, bitter cherry and wild strawberry fruit. Saline, textural and precise. Wonderful wine. 50% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2027 – 2039
Corney & Barrow Score 19 Recommended drinking from 2029 – 2041
£815/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £825/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
£1,395/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£575/CASE OF 1 JEROBOAM, IN BOND UK
£1,405/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK £965/CASE OF 1 JEROBOAM, IN BOND UK
CLOS-VOUGEOT GRAND CRU, VIEILLES VIGNES, HOMMAGE À JEAN MORIN Named for François Labet’s grandfather, this is a selection from the first bunches on the cane, from only the best vines. There is an additional layer of seductive sweet spice, evoking the small, thick-skinned, concentrated berries. The palate is pure-fruited and spicy, with deft, detailed tannins and impressively concentrated dark spicy berry fruit. Power and panache – so good. 7080% whole bunch fermentation. 50% new oak. Since the inaugural 2010, this has been made every year except 2011 and 2014. Corney & Barrow Score 19 Recommended drinking from 2030 – 2045 £1,895/CASE OF 3 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £1,275/CASE OF 1 MAGNUM, IN BOND UK £2,580/CASE OF 1 JEROBOAM, IN BOND UK
Tasting Guide Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. For the benefit of simplicity, wines are scored out of 20. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score. Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.
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CHÂTEAU DE LA TOUR & DOMAINE PIERRE LABET 2020
DOMAINE PIERRE LABET This domaine has obtained organic conversion as of the 2021 vintage. 600 years later, François Labet’s grandfather was mayor of Beaune between the two world wars. During this period, the holdings began to be expanded. Now, the domaine owns 10 hectares of vineyards in Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune, Chorey-lès-Beaune, Meursault and Gevrey-Chambertin.
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Given the geographical distance between Domaine Pierre Labet’s holdings, François has an operational hub in Beaune, a seven-person vineyard team and two permanent cellar hands, with another two during vinification. The wines are made at Château de la Tour. François started making wine in 1984, in the 1987 vintage changing from 100% destemming to 100% whole bunch handling. As he says, “you either do it or you don’t”. No sulphur dioxide is used at harvest, François choosing to protect the grapes using carbon dioxide (dry ice) at the top of the vats. Reds are given a short pre-fermentation maceration. There is no racking after malolactic fermentation. The wines are left to settle in vat after pressing. The white wines are given brief periods of lees contact following fermentation, but no bâtonnage (lees stirring). Whites are given a light fining, whereas there is none for the reds. None of the wines are filtered. The domaine is in the process of organic conversion.
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CHÂTEAU DE LA TOUR & DOMAINE PIERRE LABET 2020
THE WINES REDS
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BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR VIEILLES VIGNES
BEAUNE 1ER CRU COUCHERIAS
François and Édouard’s Bourgogne Pinot Noir is all about the lush Pinot fruit and delicate exotic spice from its whole bunch vinification. It comes from three different plots in Chorey-lès-Beaune, which has more clay than on the Côte. Beautiful sappy aromatics from the 70% wholebunch fermentation, with bright raspberry fruit. 20-25% new oak gives a roundness and texture.
1er Cru Coucherias is in the centre of the Beaune appellation, on the high slopes above Teurons, looking down on the city. It is a warm, south-facing site, just beneath the forest. Beautiful, firmly fruited, red-berried aromas lead into a palate of fleshy raspberry fruit and supple tannins. 40% new oak. 70% whole-bunch fermentation.
Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2027
Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2029
£165/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£315/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
BEAUNE CLOS DU DESSUS DES MARCONNETS
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN VIEILLES VIGNES
Dessus des Marconnets is at the northern end of Beaune, on the boundary with Savigny, beneath the Montagne de Beaune. Dried herbs on the nose, aromatic and beguiling, with raspberry and rose petals. The palate is cool-fruited, with wild strawberries and very supple, fruit-coated tannins. A third new oak. 70% whole-bunch fermentation.
Vieilles vignes here denotes well over 60 years of age. The domaine’s Gevrey village is made from three lieuxdits, which are co-vinified: La Justice (north-east), Les Crais (south-east) and La Jouise (south-west, just below Mazy-Chambertin), totalling 0.6 hectares. Peppery, darkberried, spicy aromas. The palate reverberates with energy and a blackberry-fruited, lusty verve. A third new oak. 20% whole-bunch fermentation.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2029 £245/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2025 – 2035 £325/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
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WHITES BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY VIEILLES VIGNES
MEURSAULT LES TILLETS
The domaine’s whites are acidity-focused, the goal being to pick Chardonnay grapes with a sense of freshness. François and Édouard’s Bourgogne Chardonnay comes from two plots in Chorey-lès-Beaune. Picked in the first week of September, it revels in citrus and crunchy pears, with a phenolic bite to the finish. Vinified in large 350 litre barrels.
Although Les Tillets sits in the middle of the commune, François describes it as “more Puligny than Meursault”, as it is particularly floral. The white marl soils tend to translate into a clipped precision, which this year is offset by fleshy and delectable peach fruit, with honeysuckle perfume. 30% new oak, around three quarters of which is large 350 litre format.
Corney & Barrow Score 16.5+ Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2024
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2028
£165/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£315/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
BEAUNE BLANC CLOS DU DESSUS DES MARCONNETS This plot borders Savigny, at the beginning of the wooded Montagne de Beaune. A substantial wine of ripe, fleshy generosity and flashes of grapefruit. It was racked off its lees almost immediately, for maximum freshness. 18 months ageing in 350 and 450 litre barrels, 30% of which were new, before four months in tank prior to bottling. Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2026 £245/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
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01875 321 921 sales@corneyandbarrow.com PLEASE NOTE These wines are released en primeur. Delivery dates to be confirmed. All prices are quoted in bond UK.
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CHÂTEAU DE LA TOUR & DOMAINE PIERRE LABET 2020
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