THE WINES OF ROBERTO CONTERNO CANTINA GIACOMO CONTERNO & AZIENDA VITIVINICOLA NERVI THE 2020 RELEASES
EXCLUSIVE TO CORNEY & BARROW IN THE UNITED KINGDOM & HONG KONG
THE VIEW FROM THE TOP OF VIGNA FRANCIA
INTRODUCTION Oh how I have missed the annual late spring trip to Piedmont to visit Roberto and taste both Conterno and Nervi. The world clearly has bigger concerns right now so no sympathy is required. So, this is new for us – combining Nervi and Giacomo Conterno into one Roberto Conterno special. It is logical as we are dealing in the most part with Nebbiolo and certainly we are experiencing the same fanatical attention to detail which makes Conterno the estate everyone, rightly, looks up to. Nervi, which I write about in more depth here, is fast gaining “on the rail”. It is certainly an exciting time to be a “Neb-head”.
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You can’t talk about either estate without talking about Roberto himself. He is a tour de force and much as I am sure we have all had our fill of Zoom and YouTube these last 6 months I must recommend to you the Vinous live that Roberto did with Antonio Galloni (click here). It is rare for a person’s character, energy, drive and desire to come across so clearly as it does in that long interview. In the above video, Roberto dropped the “bombshell” that there will be no Monfortino bottled from 2016 – a much lauded vintage, as I mention below. Not because it is not good, just because to be Monfortino it has to be distinct. In this offer though, we have Monfortino from 2014 – a vintage viewed as disastrous by many. Although Roberto certainly does not believe in the easy option, this is not as contrary a move as it may appear. There were producers who lost almost everything to hail in 2014 but the Francia vineyard was fortunate – and September and October were stunning. However, Monfortino 2014 was a minute crop – 50% down on the Monfortino production of 2013. Allocation of all these wines is difficult and will be even more so this year, so please be patient and do speak to any of the team for more details. I hope you enjoy the offer.
WILL HARGROVE Head of Fine Wine October 2020
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ROBERTO CONTERNO Foot note
THE ALLOCATION PROCESS We are often asked by customers for guidance on the quantities they should order. Due to the huge increase in demand for these wines over recent years, we will have to allocate all the wines in this offer.
This will be done as quickly and as fairly as possible. We will do our best to accommodate newer customers, however priority will be given to customers who have supported wines from Cantina Giacomo Conterno over time and Nervi more recently.
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1. Roberto Conterno and Corney & Barrow’s focus is on the private customer and as a consumer rather than a speculator. 2. The wines are bought on the clear understanding that they will be stored and delivered in the UK or Hong Kong only. 3. Should you wish to sell the wine in the future, do please offer Corney & Barrow first refusal, as this will ensure the integrity of secondary market distribution. May we please have your order by Tuesday 20th October. Allocations will be completed by the 27th October. Confirmation of your order will be through receipt of invoice and the wines will be delivered or put into your reserve on payment. As already outlined, all orders are conditional upon UK storage or Hong Kong delivery only. May we please request that invoices are settled within the usual terms. In the interests of being fair, we reserve the right to reallocate your order to other customers on the waiting list if payment is not received by this time. Do please speak to our sales team, who will be delighted to help you further.
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AZIENDA VITIVINICOLA NERVI It was so exciting when we heard of Roberto Conterno buying Nervi.
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With Roberto having expanded the great Cantina Giacomo Conterno estate by acquiring a part of the Cerretta vineyard (in 2008) and then Arione (in 2015), he has clearly been on the lookout for opportunities. An analogy can be drawn here between a man of Barolo buying in Alto Piedmont and the Burgundians who are now looking to Mâcon and Beaujolais. Those of you who know Roberto will understand that detail is his thing whether it is in the vineyard, in the winery or now, adding to the family’s holdings. Nervi was very much on my radar, from the two previous occasions I had tasted. Both times I was sufficiently intrigued and impressed to do a write-up on my own blog. I liked the wines very much but that crucial, human link just wasn’t there – YET. Adam and I then visited Gattinara back in May 2018 and again with Joe Muller in 2019. Roberto drove us the 90 minutes it takes from Monforte d’Alba to Gattinara! We went straight to the vineyards.
It is becoming something of a cliché these days to say that great wines are “grown and not made” but it is clearly the case here. The combination of the soils, the aspect, the light and the altitude is something of a delicious cocktail for the Nebbiolo grape. Ordinarily there will be three wines, all from the Nebbiolo grape. Gattinara itself is joined by two single vineyards – Valferana & Molsino. Roberto, however, doesn’t really do “rules” as you may know so he had already made a bold decision in blending the single vineyards with the Gattinara for the 2015 vintage. This is repeated for the 2017 offered here. We are offering Valferana 2016 and Molsino 2016 – the single vineyards - alongside the Gattinara 2016 and 2017. Below I have largely repeated our initial text on the history and geography as well as information on the crucial human elements of Nervi as I feel it is crucial to set out the stall clearly on this exciting area and estate.
A brief history of the Gattinara region The history of Azienda Vitivinicola Nervi dates back more than 100 years. The history of wine in the area goes back further still. The 10th century tower, Torre della Castelle, that still stands prominently above the town, was built to guard the vineyards. The Valferana vineyard, more about which below, can be traced back to 1242. In 1787, Thomas Jefferson stayed at the Hotel “Tre Re” in Vercelli and drank his first Gattinara. The wine made a lasting impression and was the beginning of his passion for Nebbiolo. From the evidence in his journals, it has been deciphered that this wine was most likely a sparking rosé: “There is a red wine of Nebiule made in this neighbourhood which is very singular. It is about as sweet as the silky Madeira, as astringent on the palate as Bordeaux, as brisk (sparkling) as Champagne. It is a pleasing wine”.
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Things have moved on since then! Until the end of the 19th century, Gattinara was held in far higher regard than either Barolo or Barbaresco. Phylloxera ravaged the vineyards, reducing the area from over 600 hectares to just over 100. In 1872, a relative of Luigi Nervi’s, Pietro Giovanni Nervi, helped establish Italy’s second oenological research station in Gattinara. The analysis performed at the centre resulted in the 1875 quality classification of North Piemonte’s terroirs. Gattinara was placed first, followed by Lessona, Grignasco, Ghemme, Cossato, Sizzano, Boca and Briona. The head of the research station, Giovanni Battista Cerletti commented: “The best wines of North Piemonte enter into the category of Grands Vins d’Italie and match the great wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy, particularly the latter to which the North Piemontese wines are similar. This conclusion is supported by the prices obtained by a good Gattinara or Ghemme.” Italo, the only son of Margherita and Luigi Nervi, was largely responsible for obtaining the official DOC classification for Gattinara in 1967, with the higher quality DOCG classification obtained in 1990. The wines must contain at least 90% Nebbiolo, known locally as Spanna, with up to 10% Bonarda di Gattinara and no more than 4% Vespolina. Ageing is in oak for a minimum of one year, two years for Riserva, plus two years in bottle.
NERVI – a brief history Azienda Vitivinicola Nervi. Founded by Luigi Nervi in 1906, Nervi is Gattinara’s oldest operating winery. Luigi’s son, Italo, grew the company by purchasing vineyards and expanding their cellars. Italo passed away in 1975 with no direct heirs and left his shares in Nervi to relatives. The company was then sold to Germano Bocciolone in 1991, a steel manufacturing entrepreneur, who embarked on a massive investment programme, including a stainless steel vinification plant, 40 new Slavonian oak barrels and the replanting of the Molsino vineyard. His sons sold the majority share to the Astrup family in 2011. Erling Astrup had asked Roberto Conterno for his opinion before buying, and after tasting older vintages, Conterno said it was wholly impossible not to make great wine here. In April 2018, Roberto Conterno, acquired 90% of Azienda Vitivinicola Nervi.
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THE VINEYARDS A series of seismic events has given the area of Gattinara a unique soil structure. 280 million years ago, volcanic rocks were created when the Valsesia super-volcano erupted. Then, when Africa collided with Europe to form Monte Rosa 60 million years ago, these rocks were forced to the surface as gravel. Most of this was washed away over time except for that of Gattinara’s higher slopes. This has created a unique mineral-rich terroir. The gravel is rich in iron, manganese, zinc and copper. In addition, the high clay content - paralleled by Serralunga d’Alba and an absence of chalk give rise to acidic soil conditions, perfectly suited to Nebbiolo. Nestled in the foothills of Monte Rosa, the vineyards are protected from northerly winds. There are currently 28 hectares (ha) under vine. Molsino, at 12ha, is Alto Piedmont’s finest southfacing amphitheatre. 7-8ha would ordinarily be considered for the Vigna Molsino bottling. The altitude is 350-420m. Valferana is 8ha in size and is particularly high in iron and manganese, up to six times that of other Nebbiolo producing regions. Around 3-4ha would, at the moment, be considered for the Vigna Valferana bottling. The remainder is for the Gattinara. The altitude is 320m. Garavoglie is 7ha and was replanted in 2015 with thirteen different Spanna (local name for Nebbiolo) clones, ensuring the original Nebbiolo clones of Alto Piedmont remain an integral part of Nervi vineyards. Casaccie is the last site, at a minute 1ha. Pruning and harvesting at all sites is carried out by hand.
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THE WINERY Enrico Fileppo is the chief oenologist and has been with the winery since 1983.
In the cellar, native yeasts are used. Roberto is now incredibly hands-on here, as one would expect. For the single vineyard wines - Vigna Valferana and Vigna Molsino - there is gentle destemming and crushing. Fermentation is in truncated conical oak vats, at controlled temperatures. Maceration lasts 3-4 weeks. The ageing that follows is for a minimum of 40 months in old wood. The sizes of that old wood varies from 10hl to 76hl; it is an extraordinary cellar.
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For the Gattinara, similarly, destemming and crushing is very gentle, followed by fermentation in stainless steel vats, again at controlled temperatures. The ageing here is for 30 months in large old wood. The typical production levels are Molsino - 1,325 cases (12x75cl), Valferana - 575 cases and Gattinara - 7,085 cases. The alcohol levels are typically 13.5%. Large oak casks, or botte, are used for ageing and are made of Austrian, French, German and Slavonian oak. More than 100 years of wine production have shown that only through a long and controlled ageing process can the high potential of Nebbiolo tannins be transformed into a well-balanced wine. For this reason, in the Nervi cellars, ageing time is lengthened to more than that required by the Gattinara DOCG. The minimum ageing required by the Gattinara DOCG is three years, two of which must be in cask. The wines of Nervi age, as above, for four years, at least 2.5 years of which are in oak. This explains Luigi Nervi’s motto: Nectar in tempore, which implies that patient ageing in the cellar transforming the Nebbiolo grapes into the precious elixir which made the Roman gods immortal - just in case you were in doubt. This year’s development has been a completely new winery, ready for the 2020 crop.
“Roberto Conterno’s acquisition of Nervi in 2018 made waves and has brought a whole new level of interest to Alto Piemonte. I visited just a few months after the purchase was complete and Conterno had already added temperature control to the cellar. Since then, Conterno has built a new winery and added the same state of the art bottling line he has at Giacomo Conterno. The range of wines is now streamlined to three Gattinaras; the straight Gattinara bottling plus the single vineyard Molsino and Valferrana.” ANTONIO GALLONI Vinous, April 2020
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CANTINA GIACOMO CONTERNO Whilst the acquisition of Nervi may have meant Roberto has to be in two places at once – I dread to think how many times he (and his team) have made that drive there has not been even a moment’s rest at Conterno. A brief recent history...
CERRETTA BUILDING
17 2008 – CERRETTA A new vineyard purchase. Planted with both Nebbiolo and Barbera. The first addition to the estate since the acquisition of Cascina Francia in 1974.
2015 – ARIONE Another new site, this time planted solely with Nebbiolo. Both Cerretta and Arione are of course in Serralunga so the addition is both logical and coherent. Arione is a southern extension of Cascina Francia with a more southern exposure. The 2016 offered here is the second Barolo Arione.
2017-2019 – SENSORY GLASSES (see pages 28-29) If one adds to this the incredible rigour with which Roberto has overhauled the inspection and treatment of corks and the development of the Cantina itself then it really has been an incredible run of projects. But then projects give you focus and drive one on. There are few places in the wine world where you feel you could literally eat off the floor of the winery. I can’t work out whether the facilities more resemble a car tuning workship (think Alpina or AMG) or a monastery. Either way the tranquillity and calm is a wonderful contrast to Roberto’s energy and dynamism. The interview I mentioned in the introduction picked up on a interesting point – having projects to work on and being restless is a sign of optimism – it implies that “tomorrow” will be better than “today”. With all that the world faces, now is a great time for this sentiment, however hard it may feel.
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THE NERVI WINES GATTINARA
VIGNA MOLSINO
Here, as Roberto did with the Gattinara 2015, the single vineyard wines have been included in this cuvée so there is one Nebbiolo wine in 2017. This is not a quality measure so much as a matter of definition. If the Molsino and Valferana are not distinct enough then the combination occurs. The wine is vibrant, a shade darker in colour than the Gattinara 2016 below. The nose is so attractive, lovely red fruits, a herbal sweetness, so pure and elegant. The nose here begs you to drink it. The palate has a real verve about it, succulent but not without a firm perfectly balanced structure. Bold and bright, this is so exciting.
An airy, lifted nose, with a strong hint at the succulence to come. The fruit character here is a little deeper and darker than the Gattinara 2016. This has nice “shoulders”, a broad appeal, glimpses of sweet, slightly decadent richness. There is a great feel to the palate, structure yes but rounded without losing energy. This has quite some future.
2017
2016
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2033
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2033+ £365/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £785/Case of 6 magnums, in bond UK
£195/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £425/Case of 6 magnums, in bond UK
GATTINARA
VIGNA VALFERANA
Tea, roses and red fruit with a shade of degradation (to borrow a François Mitjavile favourite phrase). This nose is elegant but manages to be persistently rich, maybe intense is a better word. The palate has a bright opening and then a very proper structure, sappy and seriously moreish. For me this is archetypal Nebbiolo.
In comparison to the more supple Molsino we have more “animal” here, a little leather and tobacco shows through. There is a core of fruit here – a paradox of more developed aromas but more vigour of youth at the same time. There is a real opulence to the palate, luscious but also reassuringly uncompromising. A kind of muscular harmony which promises so well for now and the future. Captivating.
2016
2016
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2030 £195/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £425/Case of 6 magnums, in bond UK
Corney & Barrow Score 18 - 18+ Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2034+ £365/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £785/Case of 6 magnums, in bond UK
Tasting Guide Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. For the benefit of simplicity, wines are scored out of 20. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score. Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.
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THE CANTINA GIACOMO CONTERNO WINES
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BARBERA - 2018 VINTAGE “2018 is certainly a cooler vintage and the Barbera in 2018 is much more elegant and has lots of finesse, completely opposed to 2017, which was extremely powerful and deep.” ROBERTO CONTERNO The Barbera was picked at the end of September so in its regular window. “Cooler” for me reminds me of the Barberas of 2012 and 2014. I have had these recently and they manage to combine the lusciousness of the variety with a drive given by the cooler weather. So, to the wines:
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BARBERA VIGNA CERRETTA
BARBERA VIGNA FRANCIA
2018
2018
I always love the way Cerretta stamps its signature on both Barbera and Nebbiolo. The site here, whilst in the same commune, has more clay than Francia, or Arione for that matter. The fruit feels more plush, more cherry with some cranberry. This 2018 has cooler fruit and a lovely drive, almost a crunch, vibrancy and succulence somehow combining. Classically Cerretta.
To many people “the Barbera” and until 2008 that was of course the case. Francia in 2018 has a little less fullness of colour, the trademark salinity is evident and slightly redder fruit than Cerretta. Whilst one might think this will drink earlier than usual the backbone of crunchy acidity and perfect tannins means you could keep this for some years. Cracking wine.
Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2026+
Corney & Barrow Score 17+ Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2027+
£260/case of 6 Bottles, in bond UK
£260/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £285/Case of 3 magnums, in bond UK
NEBBIOLO - 2016 VINTAGE As the below quote from Roberto suggests, he is not one for over-statement, instead measured, matter-of-fact comment.
“2016 is a very nice vintage, rather classic with direct and straight wines. The harvest was certainly not difficult, the summer in 2016 was extremely warm, but very dry. Harvest has taken place around mid-October, so very regular picking dates.” ROBERTO CONTERNO
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“In so many ways, 2016 is all about being in the right place at the right time for Barolo. An ideal growing season with all the prerequisites for a great vintage comes at a time when so many winemakers are in their primes, past the stage of experimentation and settled into their own personal styles. The result is a vintage full of truly spectacular, breath taking wines that captures all the pedigree that Nebbiolo and Barolo are capable of.” ANTONIO GALLONI Vinous, April 2020
BAROLO CERRETTA 2016
A different, clay-heavy soil, from that of Francia or Arione, which leads to a more lush, fruited style. A western exposure too. Drop dead gorgeous on the nose, this is so juicy and vivacious. There is such life here. As ever the fruit is a red-purple in character – cherry and wild strawberries, so very refined. As you get with this site the drinking window will be vast. The length is so fine…will be very exciting to follow this wine. Corney & Barrow Score 18 - 18+ Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2036+ £1,075/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £390/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK £875/Case of 1 double magnum, in bond UK
BAROLO ARIONE 2016
Whilst the soil here is contiguous with Francia the exposure is almost full south. A shade of tawny to the colour here, a lifted nose that takes the aromas to the air. An incredible elegance. There is some of the salinity from “round the corner” in Francia but also a herbal edge combined with some pretty red fruits and even a slightly floral edge. So very refined. Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2036+ £1,075/ case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £390/ case of 1 magnum, in bond UK
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BAROLO FRANCIA 2016
In Robert’s words a “combination of the traits of Cerretta and Arione”, merging the former’s aspect with the latter’s soil. To think this great site was planted to wheat when it was bought in 1974 and then produced the epic wine that is Monfortino 1978 is quite incredible. This 2016 is a quintessential Barolo and with no Monfortino to be made in 2016 you can see the slight change this has, a richer texture. The fruit and tannin in perfect balance, deep deep fruit but without feeling overly saturated in any way, there is such a long finish. A wine to repay the patient, of that there is no doubt. Superb. Corney & Barrow Score 18 - 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2036+ £1,075/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £390/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK
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“The climate conditions throughout the year 2014 can be defined as cold and wet, especially in the summer, but the months of September and October were very beautiful and sunny. Having this weather at the end of the growing season was very important for the perfect ripening of the grapes. The Nebbiolo was picked very late: at the very end of October, around two weeks later than normal dates.� ROBERTO CONTERNO
MONFORTINO 2014 “When it comes to comparisons of any kind, all bets are off with the 2014 Monfortino, a Barolo that enters the stratosphere of profound and utterly moving beauty” ANTONIO GALLONI Vinous, April 2020
TASTING NOTE2013 I am delighted to have tasted this wine over several years. It is a wine of superb focus and contrasting generosity. 2002 is the only previous vintage in which Monfortino was the only wine made from the Francia vineyard. In common with 2002, 2014 was a very tricky vintage, widely dismissed, and yet a year in which this vineyard shone. This is further tribute to Roberto’s patience and focused lack of restraint in his decisions. Crazy deep colour for Nebbiolo, brooding, a little soy on the nose and deep fruit, red and dark fruits. The long hang time and therefore late harvest really shows, you get a feel of layer upon layer of detail – it is almost a wine of intimidating multi-dimensionality. There is fruit of course but also youthful aging characteristics (if that makes any sense) – spice, leather, tobacco and then back to fruit and structure. Quite simply a stellar wine. The only downside is the pathetic quantity – half that of 2013. But then the greatest is arguably never abundant! Corney & Barrow Score 19 - 19+ Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2040+ £1,950/case of 3 bottles, in bond UK £1,395/case of 1 magnum, in bond UK
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WHEN, HOW & WHAT TO DRINK NOW This is not me telling you what to do. It is my view on how you might approach drinking these wonderful wines.
BARBERA
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In most vintages the Barbera wines show best at 4-9 years of age. They become more savoury over time and continue to age (a 2001 Francia with Roberto was superb and 2008 & 2012 Cerretta recently were both great) but, as you would expect, have a less defined character and energy. The 2013, 2014 and 2015 vintages are very good now. As these are unfiltered and Barbera is a thick-skinned grape variety, I would recommend standing the wines up for a few hours and decanting 15-30 minutes before serving. The perfect wine to have at home for when you just want something delicious without breaking the bank and knowing you’ll get a great experience.
BAROLO & Nebbiolo in general The warmer vintages drink very well when younger and served a shade cooler (13-15 degrees). The recent vintages in this bracket are 2005, 2007, 2009 and 2011. These will all improve but are ready to drink. I recommend continuing to cellar the 2004, 2006, 2008, 2010, 2012 &
2013 vintages. The wines from 2001 and before are ready to drink (according to your taste), though 2001 and 1999 continue to be youthful and are evolving gracefully. The Gattinara 2015, which like the 2017 in this offer contains the single vineyard wines, is delicious now though will age very well. Sediment is less of an issue than with Barbera so I would either allow the wine to breathe standing up with half a glass removed (i.e. drunk!) or decant gently before serving. I far prefer the wine to warm gently and develop aromas in the glass so I, personally, do not advocate extended decanting, although some people do.
BAROLO RISERVA MONFORTINO This is a wine with a vast drinking window, one of the most long-lived of all wines. The youngest vintages that I feel are drinking well now are 1997, 1998 & 2000. I would never put someone off drinking a younger vintage (especially 2002 because of the link to the 2014 offered here) as the enjoyment of watching a wine develop bottle by bottle from youth to full maturity is one of the real joys of wine. Younger vintages will require more time in the decanter.
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SENSORY GLASSES The Sensory glass project was first conceived in July 2017 as a result of a discussion between Roberto and Zwiesel Kristallglas. Roberto had been asked by them to design a glass. 29 This is a project born of Roberto’s fanatical obsession with detail and the desire for his wines, and happily others’ to be enjoyed to maximum effect. The glasses are NOT designed as purely a glass for Nebbiolo and/or Barbera but for all wines (with the exception of sparkling). They are designed to be very light but at the same time more sturdy than they may feel or look. They are available in both UK and Hong Kong. I have been extensively trialling the glass over the past year and think it is exceptional. Do not take my word alone for it though – you can see the glass being used more and more around the world – Charles Lachaux, another “detail man” insisted on it for the launch of his 2018s back in March. (We will be shipping more glasses in the coming months, pre-order now). £293.70 inc vat per 6 glasses HK$2,600 per 6 glasses
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