DOMAINE DE LA ROMANÉE-CONTI 2019 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR EXCLUSIVE TO CORNEY & BARROW IN THE UNITED KINGDOM
“Pour le vigneron, chaque millésime, jusqu’à ce que le vin ait été écoulé dans les fûts où il va être élevé, est une énigme, un peu comme l’attente de la naissance d’un enfant qui ne laisse rien deviner de ce qu’il sera. Plus qu’aucun autre, ce nouveau millésime sera venu au monde sans avoir livré à l’avance aucune référence permettant de le comparer à des millésimes antérieurs.”
For vignerons, each vintage remains a mystery until the wine is run off into barrels where it will age. It is somewhat like waiting for a child to be born without being able to predict its future. More than any other, this 2019 vintage was born without providing clues to make comparisons with previous vintages. Aubert de Villaine, end of harvest report, 30th October 2019
Photo © Château de Versailles, Dist. RMN-Grand Palais / Christophe Fouin Fête donnée par le Prince de Conti Feast given by the Prince of Conti to the Hereditary Prince Charles Guillaume Ferdinand of Brunswick-Lüneburg, under the tent, in the forest of Cassan, at Isle-Adam in 1766
INTRODUCTION Grace under pressure
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You have to go back some 154 years – a blink of an eye in the Domaine’s world, perhaps – to find a reference vintage to 2019. Jacques-Marie Duvault Blochet, an ancestor of the de Villaine family, in his pamphlet “De la Vendange” published in 1870, records that the 1865 vintage, a very great year in the 19th century, offered intense heat, extreme sugar concentrations and a harvest around the 20th September. Even more eerily, the previous year, 1864, was very similar to 2018… The magic of the Domaine’s 2019s, however, is how wines of such profundity and power should offer equally such sublime grace and freshness and above all, transparent fidelity to the quality and characteristics of each vineyard. It is as if the 2019 sun-sign and north wind born and tempered by drought, is worn effortlessly by these wines, so deceptively easy to taste but whose present quality, I believe, is only a glimpse of what is yet to come. This is a very great vintage.
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© Olivia Zinovieff
Perrine Fenal and Aubert de Villaine
Winter 2018 was mild and not particularly wet at a time when actually rain is positively desirable as it fills and balances any deficiencies in the water table. Spring, with the prevailing wind from the north, offered beautiful weather which was to continue almost uninterrupted throughout the growing season. This made the usual spring viticulture – ploughing, pruning and de-budding – easy and biodynamic treatments were reduced to a historical minimum. Vegetative growth was quite phenomenal and even a hot May, lacking in any sort of rainfall, seemed to have no effect on this whatsoever. Flowering began early at the very beginning of June. This was protracted however, not because of the conventional reasons of cold or wet but because of hydric stress. This caused significant coulure (or fruit shatter of the tiny, nascent grapes) and millerandage (small undeveloped grapes). This was when potential yields were hit most as the flowering spread out over more than 15 days. An approximate harvest date of 20th September was now anticipated. With the wind remaining stubbornly from the north and with consequentially little or no chance of rain, fabulously hot weather set in, but with mercifully cool
nights that are good for complexity of flavours and offered vital respite for the vines. The first heatwave, however, from June 24th-30th offered little comfort to the vines which in a number of cases, more in the second heatwave of the end of July (both waves reaching or exceeding 40°C - 104°F) went into a vegetative lockdown or survival regime until more seasonal temperatures returned. A few berries were literally roasted, to be removed at harvest time. Intriguingly and overall, temperatures in 2019 were actually higher than in 2003, a clear sign of how, in less than 20 years, the Domaine’s vines have adapted - expressed stylistically of course but also in yields which were to be comfortably higher than in 2003. In 2019 the vineyards remained resolutely green, a feature that the Co-Directors, Aubert de Villaine and Perrine Fenal (Perrine’s first vintage), put down to the high proportion of vines that are consequently deeprooted, resultant low yields (vines fight better when they are carrying fewer grapes) and a re-enforcement of the principals of biodynamic cultivation.
© Laurent Darmon
Bertrand de Villaine, co-gérant from 2021, Perrine Fenal, co-gérante, and Aubert de Villaine
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Nicolas Jacob, Chef de Culture
© Olivia Zinovieff
Alexandre Bernier, Chef de Cave
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Aubert de Villaine and Nicolas Jacob
Véraison (when the grapes change colour from green to red) began at the end of July and the maturity of sugars rose very fast in August, with a potential of 11% on the 26th, 12.5% one week later, reaching 13% in the younger vineyards aided by some vital light showers. After a brief pause the following week, this maturity accelerated again to reach 13.5-14% and even more in Chardonnay (CortonCharlemagne, Montrachet). The Domaine waited, however, for greater phenolic maturity (skins, stalks, pips) before beginning the harvest on 14th September with the younger vines only of La Tâche and Romanée-Saint-Vivant. On 15th September, it was the turn of Montrachet, which had enjoyed a less hydrically stressed June with some beneficial rain and a wonderful, albeit low yielding crop was harvested. Thereafter and over the next 11 days (see table) the vintage was brought in, under the expert supervision of Chef de Culture (Vineyard Manager), Nicolas Jacob and his team as, cru by cru, each vineyard tripped into full maturity. Only sun-roasted berries were eliminated. Once again, his team effected an “haute couture” job, meticulously cutting the tails of the grapes in order to diminish the volume of stalks that were put into the vat. 90-100% whole clusters were used for all the red crus, with the exception of Romanée-Saint-Vivant (80%). The grapes were fabulously ripe, thick skinned, intensely sweet, with a low ratio of juice to skin without the slightest sign of botrytis or any other diseases. 2019 represents the first vintage of the Domaine’s newly leased Corton-Charlemagne vineyards (see notes), harvested on 22nd and 25th September. A beautiful golden crop, ripe and healthy, was brought in - clearly under an auspicious star… Maître de chai (cellar master) Alexandre Bernier and his team effected the traditional long “whole cluster” vinification with the wines being put to barrel in October 2019. Bottling was effected in February/March 2021. My tasting notes are taken from one cask tasting in 2020 and the final tasting from bottle in November 2021. I hope they convey a little of the “soul” of this extraordinary vintage. The allocation process (page 17 ) was put together with your help and guidance and is therefore particularly relevant. As always, please speak to your individual salesperson for further assistance or to our Sales Team on 020 7265 2430.
ADAM BRETT-SMITH February 2022
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VOSNE-ROMANÉE
Chambolle-Musigny N Dijon
N74
Les Grands Échézeaux
Vougeot
Échézeaux
Flagey-Echézeaux
10
Les Richebourgs
La Romanée
Romanée Saint-Vivant
La RomanéeConti
La Grande Rue
La Tâche
Vosne-Romanée
Nuits-St-Georges
Beanne
Grands Crus du Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
N74
CORTON & CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE
N
En Charlemagne
D115d
Bois de Corton
Le Charlemagne
Les Pougets
11
Le Corton
Les Languettes
ALOXE-CORTON Les Perrières
Le Clos du Roi
Les Renardes
Le Rognet-Corton Les Bressandes
Les Meix Les Fournières
Les Chaillots
Les Valozières Les Caillettes
Les Bruyères
D115d
Les Morais
Les Marèchaudes
Les Lolieres
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Photo © Château de Versailles, Dist. RMN-Grand Palais / Christophe Fouin
THE ALLOCATION PROCESS We always aim to make our allocation process utterly transparent and fair. This is necessarily painstaking as each order is dealt with in minute detail – as it should be. We ask for your patience as we do this and, once again, thought it would be useful to set out the Domaine’s and, by extension, Corney & Barrow’s allocation criteria. • The Domaine’s focus is on the private customer and as a consumer rather than a speculator. • The Domaine’s wines are bought on the clear understanding that they will be stored and delivered in the UK only. Should you wish to sell the wines in the future, it is expected and understood that you please offer Corney & Barrow first refusal as this will ensure the integrity of secondary market distribution. • Should customers wish to sell their allocation (or part of it) within two years of initial release, it can be fairly assumed that the wines were bought with speculation in mind rather than future drinking. This may very well impact the level of future allocations to those customers. • Priority will be given to the Domaine’s and Corney & Barrow’s longstanding and best customers. • We will do our best to accommodate newer customers. To help
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in this, we have a range of older vintages in stock to help begin a collection. • May we please have your order by Thursday 17th February 2022. • Allocations will be completed by Friday 25th February 2022. • Confirmation of order will be through receipt of invoice and the wines will be delivered or put into your reserve upon payment and once the wines have arrived in the UK. All orders are conditional upon UK storage only. We keep for the Domaine’s benefit a record of bottle numberings to help you in this. • May we please request that invoices are paid in full by Friday 25th March 2022. In all fairness, we reserve the right to reallocate your order to other customers on the waiting list if payment is not received by this time. • Do please speak to our sales team, who will be delighted to help you further.
Provenance Once again we continue to bang the drum on provenance and I can do no better than quote the Domaine’s own words: “We would like to take this opportunity to insist on something important that concerns all wine lovers – trade or private customers – it is imperative that, without absolute certainty as to the authenticity and origin of the bottles they are offered, they buy wines only through our official distributor or from the merchant and wine shop that the distributor has appointed. This is the only way to secure the guarantee of integrity, authenticity and proper storage of our wines!” Enough said!
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TASTING NOTES CORTON Three little jewels, Clos du Roi (0.57 hectares), Les Bressandes (1.2 hectares) and Les Renardes (0.5 hectares) are set into this, the 11th vintage since the Domaine acquired an extended lease from the family of the Prince de Merode. Auspiciously, 2009 was an easy, beautiful vintage for the new child, but 2019 fits this great cru like a glove, rising above the torrid conditions of the growing season to produce something that is both true to itself and to the uncanny grace of the Domaine’s interpretation of the vintage. Limpid, firm ruby colour. The nose is darkly fruited, spicy, fruit-caked and yet the perfume is curiously atmospheric, very pure, almost haunting… The palate is more grounded, cloaking that characteristic mineral Corton quality in beautifully extracted fruit, rich, full, sweetly flavoured but with a freshness and elegance that seems, against all the odds, to be one of the hallmarks of the Domaine’s 2019s. Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2036
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£1,100/Case of 3 bottles, in bond UK £745/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK
ÉCHÉZEAUX This was the last of the Domaine’s great reds to be harvested, tripping into absolute ripeness on the 22nd/ 23rd September. Profound, virtually opaque ruby colour. The nose is spicily fruited, still slightly carapaced with flashes only of mint, woodsmoke and old vine sap. The palate is utterly gorgeous, chocolate rich, with layered, sweetly succulent flavours, effortless extraction and density and with a lifted, fresh power to the finish. Even more than usual, this is a “heart on sleeve” Échézeaux but serious with it, a sort of younger (but not that much younger) brother of Richebourg. Corney & Barrow Score 18 - 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2036 £1,350/Case of 3 bottles, in bond UK £910/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK
GRANDS ÉCHÉZEAUX Slightly paler in colour than Échézeaux, but still profoundly deep. This is even more coiled, restrained on the nose, a sense of power to the perfume, earthy, mineral with that same “reverse of the slope”* quality that it shares with 2018. The palate is compressed, clenched even but with a lithe, even graceful quality to the power and a chewy, dry extract density and richness and an eerie purity and freshness to the finish. Very powerful, very Grands. Corney & Barrow Score 18+ Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2038 £2,050/Case of 3 bottles, in bond UK £1,380/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK * tactic, usually military, used to conceal the strength of a resource behind a hill or slope
RICHEBOURG The first great growth to be harvested (15th-16th September), this has a bright, limpid ruby colour, slightly paler than La Tâche. The nose offers that characteristic Richebourg richness but is darker, tighter, less showy in its unquestionably masculine power, with a mineral cast to the sweet red perfume. The palate is extraordinary with wave after wave of firm, supple, layered sweet fruit, clenched (that word again) extract and rich, with densely powerful flavours. “Super refined thug” I wrote in the margin which, on reflection, is probably lèsemajesté but it will (for me) make this wonderful wine even more memorable. Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2029 - 2039 £3,240/Case of 3 bottles, in bond UK £2,170/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK
ROMANÉE-SAINT-VIVANT Deep ruby colour. The nose offers a delectably plump red and blue fruit perfume with flashes of that characteristically lacy, intricate mineral refinement, rooty and berried. The palate is both grounded with the vintage’s density and richness and lifted with an infinitely subtle but insinuating extraction that carries the weight beautifully. Very fine with a touch of claw to the finish. Lovely wine. Corney & Barrow Score 18 - 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2040 £3,300/Case of 3 bottles, in bond UK £2,210/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK
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LA TÂCHE
CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE
This great vineyard was harvested the afternoon of the 16th, the morning of the 17th and all day on the 18th with the young vines only brought in on the 14th. I thought the 2018 to be the greatest young La Tâche that I had ever tasted but if this 2019 lives in the shadow of 2018 then it is a very, very small one. Deepest ruby colour. The nose is rich, creamily red and black fruited, dense and dark and yet, ridiculously, almost atmospheric in its perfume. There is an absolute confidence, a calm about the palate that is richly extracted for sure but silken with it, with effortlessly ripe tannins, layered power and density to the structure and a calm flair of freshness and purity on the finish. I scribbled in the margin, “This wine is not shackled by the vintage, on the contrary it wears it like a cloak”.
A moment in history. This is the first vintage of the Domaine’s Corton-Charlemagne, a tiny 2.9 hectare holding leased in 2018 from Domaine Bonneau du Martray and which lies in the two greatest locations, Le Charlemagne (Aloxe-Corton) and En Charlemagne (Pernand-Vergelesses). And what a wine it is. Golden yellow in colour. The nose is quite beautiful with creamily rich but zesty fruit, with an ethereal, haunting mineral stony perfume. The palate is silken on entry, yet lush but the sensuality is refined with a delectable lean grip and fan of freshness and light to the finish. How wonderful to begin this chapter with such a vintage and with such a wine. Ridiculously exciting to see this appellation wearing the Domaine’s label for the first time.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 - 19 Recommended drinking from 2031 - 2040 £3,750/Case of 3 bottles, in bond UK £1,250/Case of 1 bottle, in bond UK £2,510/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK
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Corney & Barrow Score 18.5+ Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2030 £2,200/Case of 3 bottles, in bond UK
ROMANÉE-CONTI
MONTRACHET
“To be swallowed” is the tradition of the Domaine when tasting Romanée-Conti, after you have shuffled the other Grands Crus into some sort of comparative order and prepared yourself for this, the most subjective, mythical, adjectively elusive of all wines. Unlike last year when, for reasons of Covid restrictions we tasted here, at 1 Thomas More Street, we heard faintly once again, the 12-noon tolling of the Angelus bell in the church at Vosne-Romanée above the near-silent cellar room at the Domaine.
There is an eerie quality to the Domaine’s 2019 Montrachet, shared with 2018. Both are hot vintages of course but 2019 has given so much and taken away nothing. By this I mean that the vintage is worn effortlessly by a wine that is naturally profound and rich. Here though, from its green cold colour to is super refined, even racy, zesty, perfume is a Montrachet utterly at ease with the frequently torrid conditions that characterised so much of this growing season or perhaps it was the cooler, fresher nights that gave both succour and complexity? Whatever, this palate dances beautifully, silken and supple for sure but with a wonderful elegance and lifted freshness to the finish. A beautiful wine. “We are not displeased” – Perrine Fenal and Bertrand de Villaine.
Firm, dense ruby colour. The nose is muted at first, then opens up to reveal that characteristic old vine fruit, touched by wild rose perfume and subtly spiced red fruit, both atmospheric but at the same time grounded and terrestrial. The palate is sweetly silken, effortlessly extracted with a delectable, layered pure but physical power and a beautiful, elegant purity to the finish. Terrific poise, terrific length, terrific wine. Corney & Barrow Score 19 - 19.5 Recommended drinking from 2033 - 2043 £3,600/Case of 1 bottle, in bond UK
Corney & Barrow Score 18 - 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2032 £2,100/Case of 1 bottle, in bond UK
THE 2019 VINTAGE IN NUMBERS AVERAGE AGE OF VINES (YEARS)
Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Duvault Blochet
TOTAL PRODUCTION (DOZ)
YIELD (HECTOLITRES PER HECTARE)
HARVEST DATES
BOTTLING DATES
493
n/a
n/a
March 4th, 2021
Corton
55
367
15 hl/ha
September 19th
January 6th, 2021
Échézeaux
35
871
23 hl/ha
September 22th and 23rd
January 7th and 8th, 2021
Richebourg
60
678
21 hl/ha
September 15th and 16th
March 30th and 31st, May 3rd, 2021
Grands Échézeaux
30
884
28 hl/ha
September 19th and 20th
March 1st and 2nd, 2021
Romanée-St-Vivant
45
1,351
18 hl/ha
September 20th and 21st
March 2nd, 3rd, 29th and 30th, 2021
La Tâche
50
994
23 hl/ha
September 16th, 17th and 18th
June 1st and 2nd, 2021
Romanée-Conti
60
409
22.5 hl/ha
September 17th
May 28th, 2021
506
26 hl/ha
September 22nd - 25th
December 2nd and 3rd, 2020
184
24 hl/ha
September 15th
December 4th, 2020
Corton-Charlemagne
Le Montrachet
60+
Tasting Guide Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. For the benefit of simplicity, wines are scored out of 20. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score.
Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.
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RECOMMENDED DRINKING DATES We are regularly asked for more specific drinking dates for Burgundies, in particular from the great domaines.
20
REVISED DRINKING DATES
Vosne–Romanée 1er Cru Cuvée Duvault Blochet
Échézeaux
Grands Échézeaux
1995
N/A
Now
Now
1996
N/A
Now
Now
1997
N/A
Now
Now
1998
N/A
Now
Now
1999
Now
Now
Now
2000
N/A
Now
Now
2001
N/A
Now
Now
2002
Now
Now
Now-2022+
2003
N/A
Now
Now
2004
N/A
See below
See below
2005
N/A
See below
See below
2006
Now-2022
Now
Now
2007
N/A
Now
See below
2008
Now-2023
See below
See below
2009
Now-2025
See below
See below
2010
N/A
See below
See below
2011
N/A
See below
See below
2012
N/A
See below
See below
2013
N/A
See below
See below
2014
N/A
See below
See below
2015
N/A
See below
See below
2016
N/A
See below
See below
2017
N/A
See below
See below
2018
N/A
See below
See below
ORIGINAL DRINKING DATES
Vosne–Romanée 1er Cru Cuvée Duvault Blochet
Échézeaux
Grands Échézeaux
1995
N/A
From 2003
From 2005
1996
N/A
From 1999
From 2000
1997
N/A
From 2002
From 2003
1998
N/A
From 2004
From 2005
1999
From 2003
From 2006
From 2008
2000
N/A
From 2004
From 2006
2001
N/A
From 2005
From 2006
2002
From 2006
From 2008
From 2009
2003
N/A
From 2008
From 2009
2004
N/A
From 2013
From 2015
2005
N/A
From 2015
From 2020
2006
2010-2015
From 2011
From 2012
2007
N/A
From 2012
From 2015
2008
2015-2020
From 2016
2018-2025+
2009
2015-2020
2018-2025+
2020-2030
2010
N/A
2019-2025+
2021-2030+
2011
N/A
2018-2024
2020-2028
2012
N/A
2020-2025
2020-2030+
2013
N/A
2019-2025+
2021-2030
2014
N/A
2020-2030
2022-2030+
2015
N/A
2022-2030+
2024-2035
2016
N/A
2028-2035+
2030-2040+
2017
N/A
2029-2035+
2030-2035+
2018
N/A
2024-2035
2026-2038+
2019
N/A
2025-2036
2028-2038
Here therefore, are specific recommendations of drinking dates for every recent vintage. Of course taste is an extremely personal thing but having tasted and analysed these wines extensively over the last few years, we absolutely believe that opening these wines at the dates indicated will ensure maximum enjoyment. For your interest and reference we have included our original recommendations made at the launch of the new vintages below. Richebourg
Romanée–St–Vivant
La Tâche
Romanée–Conti
Le Montrachet
Now
Now
Now
Now-2025+
Now
Now
Now
Now
Now-2025+
Now
Now
Now
Now
Now-2024
Now
Now-2022+
Now-2023+
2012-2022+
2015-2030+
Now
Now-2022+
Now-2023+
2012-2024+
2015-2030+
Now
Now
Now
Now-2023+
Now-2027+
Now
Now-2022+
Now-2023+
Now-2023+
Now-2029+
Now
Now-2023+
Now-2023+
2012-2023+
2015-2028+
Now
Now
Now
Now-2023+
Now-2025+
Now
See below
See below
See below
See below
Now
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
Now-2026
See below
See below
Now-2028
See below
Now-2027
See below
See below
Now-2029
Now-2028
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
Now-2025+
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
See below
Richebourg
Romanée–St–Vivant
La Tâche
Romanée–Conti
Le Montrachet
From 2006
From 2005
From 2006
From 2008
From 2007
From 2003
From 2001
From 2004
From 2006
From 2004
From 2005
From 2005
From 2005
From 2007
From 2004
From 2006
From 2005
From 2008
From 2008
From 2003
From 2010
From 2009
From 2012
From 2015
From 2006
From 2009
From 2007
From 2009
From 2009
From 2007
From 2007
From 2007
From 2008
From 2010
From 2008
From 2009
From 2009
From 2012
From 2015
From 2010
From 2011
From 2010
From 2011
From 2012
From 2009
From 2017
From 2016
From 2018
From 2020
From 2012
From 2020
From 2020
From 2020
From 2025
From 2014
From 2015
From 2013
2016-2022
2017-2025
From 2015
2016-2021
From 2016
2017-2022
2020-2025
From 2012
2016-2021
2017-2022
2018-2026+
2020-2030
From 2018
2022-2030
2020-2028
2025-2035
2025-2035
2015-2025
2023-2030+
2022-2029+
2025-2035
2026-2035+
2016-2025+
2022-2030
2021-2020
2020-2030
2025-2035
2017-2022
2025-2032+
2025-2032+
2026-2035+
2027-2035+
2017-2025+
2022-2032
2020-2030
2023-2030+
2024-2034+
2019-2025
2023-2033+
2021-2031+
2025-2035+
2025-2037+
2019-2029
2025-2035+
2023-2030+
2027-2035+
2030-2040+
2020-2035+
2029-2040+
2028-2035+
2030-2040+
2030-2040+
N/A
2031-2037+
2029-2036+
2031-2040+
2030-2040+
2022-2032
2028-2040+
2027-2040
2030-2040+
2032-2042+
2025-2030
2029-2039
2028-2040
2031-2040
2033-2043+
2026-2032
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CONTACT US
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“Demain, c’est l’Automne. Il a plu légèrement hier. Aujourd’hui le soleil est revenu. La vigne, soulagée de ses grappes, a pris une allure légère, une sorte de transparence, depuis la chute des premières feuilles… Elle est, sous le soleil, d’une beauté renversante qui dépasse tous les souvenirs que nous pouvons garder de millésimes antérieurs. Cette année le feuillage n’a pas été du tout touché par le mildiou, ce qui est rare, il change de couleur doucement, lentement et chaque matin on dirait vraiment qu’un peintre est passé pendant la nuit pour raviver les sublimes aplats de rouges, d’oranges ou de jaunes qui font de la Côte viticole une mosaïque chaque jour changeante… On se dit parfois que la vigne, après avoir fait naître son enfant, le raisin, qui va donner un grand vin admiré, veut, par cette beauté qui est fugace, mais éclatante, nous rappeler à nous, vignerons, que c’est parce qu’elle est belle que le vin sera beau, que sans elle le grand vin ne serait pas et qu’il faut donc la choyer pour qu’elle s’endorme tranquille et se réveille heureuse au printemps prochain, prête pour les nouvelles aventures que le ciel de l’année - et le vigneron – vont lui réserver…”
“Tomorrow, Autumn will be here. We had some rain yesterday. Today, the sun has come back. The vineyards, relieved of their grapes, look light and transparent since the first leaves have fallen… In the sun, their beauty is amazing and surpasses all the memories of previous vintages. This year, the leaves were not attacked by mildew, which is rare, and they are softly and slowly changing colour. Every morning we have the feeling that a painter has come overnight to revive the wonderful tints of red, orange and yellow that make the Côte look like a mosaic that changes every day. Sometimes we have the impression that the vineyards, after giving birth to grapes that will produce a great, admired wine, want to remind us that it is thanks to this short-lived but startling beauty that the wine will be beautiful too. Vineyards seem to remind us also that without them, there would be no great wine and that is why we must coddle them so that they can quietly fall asleep and wake up with happiness next Spring…. And be ready for the new adventures the sky - and the vigneron - hold in store for them…” Aubert de Villaine, end of harvest report, 30th October 2019
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