Opposite: Ploughing by horse, the church of Gevrey-Chambertin in the background
"A domaine that has been on one of the hottest hot streaks in contemporary Burgundy in recent years."
WILLIAM KELLEY, JANUARY 2022
The Dugat family have been growers in Burgundy’s Gevrey-Chambertin since the early 17th century. Loїc Dugat, son of Bernard Dugat, is the 13th generation.
The family’s 15 hectares of vines include four of the great grands crus of the village: Chambertin, Mazis-Chambertin, Charmes-Chambertin and Mazoyères-Chambertin. Several wines are labelled “Très Vieilles Vignes”, in recognition of the estate’s particularly old vines, some of which are well over a century old. The average vine age across the estate is over 70 years.
The domaine has been organic since 2003 and follows the lunar calendar, both in the vineyards and the cellar. Several vineyards have recently been converted to the high-trellised tressage system of vine training.
The domaine buildings are located in the historic centre of GevreyChambertin, at the foot of the Combe de Lavaux. Ageing of the wines takes place in the stunning 11th and 12th century cellars beneath the domaine.
Even more importantly than the historical resonance of the Dugat-Py name are Loïc’s recent initiatives, principally in the vineyard but also in the cellar. This could be summed up as detail-focused viticulture and sensitive cellar management, the results of which are just beginning to be seen.
The tenderness and elegance of recent vintages marks the beginning of the next chapter of Dugat-Py, and one which we are thrilled and honoured to be a part of. In general terms, the 2014 vintage could be seen as the start of the new era at the domaine, with the 2017 and 2018 vintages really stepping up to another level.
With over 30 wines from just 15 hectares, the wines are inevitably in rather short supply! We expect demand to be high: please let us know what you would ideally like and we shall do our best.
Well this is extremely exciting. As recently announced, we are delighted to have been appointed exclusive UK agent for Domaine Dugat-Py.
HEADOF FINE WINE BUYING MARCH 2023
Adam Brett-Smith & Loïc Dugat, March 2022
1645: Birth of Hugues Bollenot, son of Étienne Bollenot, vigneron in Gevrey-Chambertin.
1923: Marriage of Fernand Dugat and Jeanne Bolnot, resulting in the creation of Domaine Dugat.
1972: Pierre and Michèle Dugat, parents of Bernard Dugat, win the Tasse d'Or, awarded by Alexis Lichine for the best 1972 red grand cru, with their Charmes-Chambertin.
1975: First vinification of Bernard Dugat. The domaine begins to expand.
1994: Creation of the name Domaine Dugat-Py, appending the maiden name of Bernard’s wife.
1996: Loïc joins the estate while studying at university and doing internships.
1999: First year of conversion to organic viticulture in Chambertin and Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée Coeur de Roy.
2003: Conversion of the whole estate to organic viticulture. Acquisition of two plots in Côte de Beaune, Pommard and Meursault Blanc.
2004: Renovation and creation of new cellars. Acquisition of a Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc 1er Cru Morgeot parcel.
2005: Purchase of 50% of the domaine by Loïc Dugat. Loïc makes various wines solo for the first time.
2006: Horses introduced for ploughing in various plots: Chambertin, Mazis-Chambertin, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fonteny and Les Évocelles.
2009: Acquisition of new parcel of Gevrey-Chambertin Les Évocelles.
2011: Two new parcels on the hill of Corton: Corton-Charlemagne and Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Sous Frétille.
2013: Three Gevrey-Chambertin premier crus made separately for the first time: Fonteny, Les Corbeaux and La Perrière.
2014: Loïc Dugat and his wife Marie-Amélie responsible for all management and winemaking at the domaine.
2015: Organic certification granted.
2016: Loïc Dugat and his wife Marie-Amélie own 100% of the domaine. First vintage of Fixin Clos de Fixey Monopole.
2017: First vintage of Chorey-Lès-Beaune and planting of new parcel in Hautes-Côtes de Nuits.
2018: Change of trellising in four grand and premier cru parcels to 2.2m height, with six wires. This greater height allows the domaine to ‘arch’ the vines, using the tressage technique.
2019: The domaine acquires a number of plots formerly managed by Domaine Newman: Beaune Les Beaux Fougets, Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Avaux, Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves, Pommard La Levrière, Pommard Les Vaumuriens-Hauts and Monthelie. First vintage of Fine and Marc de Bourgogne, and Crémant de Bourgogne.
2022: Acquisition of two new parcels: Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Gain and Aloxe-Corton Les Paulands. Organic certification granted from the 2022 vintage for new holdings: Beaune Les Beaux Fougets, Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Avaux, Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves, Pommard La Levrière, Pommard Les Vaumuriens-Hauts and Monthélie.
Domaine Dugat-Py's holdings are blessed with particularly old vines, many of which are over 100 years old. The oldest vines of the estate were planted in 1905.
The domaine has 15 hectares, spread over more than 20 appellations, from which over 30 wines are made. The aim, as Loїc puts it, is “to obtain the quintessence of each terroir.”
The roots of the old vines reach 5-10 meters deep, contributing to the marked differences in terroir expression from plot to plot here. Soils are cultivated to enable deep rooting. In 2018, Loїc began to convert four parcels (grands and premiers crus) to the tressage method whereby untrimmed vines are ‘arched’, so as to encourage root growth and energy flow.
By raising the height of the trellis to 2.2m, using six wires in total, it is possible to ‘braid’ the long vine canes back into
the canopy. Loïc explained that tressage causes less stress to the vines and has totally changed the tannic profile of the domaine’s wines.
The domaine embarked on its first organic trials 20 years ago. Loїc stresses that it has always been obvious to him that “nature must be preserved” – an approach which also happens to result in the best quality wine. The team follows the lunar cycle for vineyard work and cellar operations, “as our ancestors did”, as well as using biodynamic preparations.
Two hectares are now ploughed by horse – including, as Adam and I saw when we visited in summer 2022, in the steep Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Sous Frétille. Loїc harvests significantly earlier than his father. The domaine has been among the first to start picking in recent vintages.
“The point of working with old vines is having a concentration and natural quality of wine.”
LOÏC DUGAT
With over 30 wines from more than 20 appellations, we thought a table might be useful…
The historic Dugat-Py cellars are the only remaining part of a 9th century abbey called the Aumônerie. Built in the 11th and 12th centuries they are, according to Loїc Dugat, Burgundy’s oldest.
The abbey itself belonged to the St-Bénigne order in Dijon. Aumônier (Abbot) Halinard was responsible for its construction, at the foot of Gevrey-Chambertin’s Combe de Lavaux.
Of particular note are the Aumônerie’s gothic vaults and Byzantine style. Its six-metre height is extraordinary, lending a quasi-religious character. Indeed, in its early years, it would have been the monks who tended to both the vineyards and the cellar.
The cellar contains bottles made by Loїc’s father, grandfather and great-grandfather. All vintages since 1950 are represented, as well as some even older bottles. This large area of natural cellar space, with no need for air conditioning, is a rare luxury in the region.
Cellarage and ageing is clearly close to Loїc’s heart. He stresses, “the great terroirs only wake up after 5-10 years in bottle.” Élevage tends to be between 13 and 20 months.
Loïc has reduced the percentage of new oak. His father Bernard tended to use 100% new oak for all premiers and grands crus, and sometimes for communal appellations too. The Petite Chapelle 1er Cru now sees around 50% new oak, and the Vosne-Romanée just 30%. Loïc has also refined his selection of forests, seasoning and toast. The domaine’s cooper is François Frères.
Since 2018, Loïc has aged the premiers crus, other than Petite Chapelle, in Italian terracotta vessels. This change was made without fanfare – as Loïc says, “I do things and only talk about them 5-10 years later.”
The domaine’s Bourgogne Rouge comes from 5-6 parcels, totalling around a hectare. The average vine age is 35 years. A bright, vibrant colour. Lovely, cherried red fruit which Adam described as “pungently perfumed” and “alive” when tasted in January 2023. The palate is a joy – fresh red fruit and perfect balance. Humble it may be, but it’s seriously good.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+
Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2029
£350/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
Les Beaux Fougets is a village lieu-dit in the south of the Beaune appellation, a stone’s throw from the border of Pommard. The domaine’s holding is a tiny 0.26 hectares, planted with 55-year-old vines. This is a wine of fine raspberry fruit and gentle creamy density, with sweet spice aromas. Bright and energetic, with a pliant sucrosity to the fine-boned mid-palate and a crunchy definition on the finish, showcasing that 2021 freshness.
Corney & Barrow Score 17+
Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2030
£525/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
Chorey lies to the north of the city of Beaune, before you get to the hill of Corton. 90-year-old vines, planted on less than 0.3 hectares. Bright, shimmering crimson colour when tasted in January 2023. Taut, tight and spicy, with a gentle grip to the fresh red fruit. Will Hargrove called this “a wine with a cheerful side –lifted, crunchy and bright.” Fruity and sherbet-fresh, a delight.
Corney & Barrow Score 17 - 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2030
£525/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
2019 was the first year of the domaine’s Monthélie, making this only the third vintage. The domaine has just over a hectare here; the average vine age is 70 years. A wine of cranberried ripeness, joyously fruity and with a seam of liquorice and dark pepper. The palate is tender and open, with a fabulous immediacy of blackberry and raspberry fruit, framed by fine, fruitcoated tannins. Cropped at just 5hl/ha in 2021, making for a mere two barrels.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2030
£525/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
La Levrière is downslope from Pommard’s Les Grands Épenots. This is a wonderfully aromatic style of Pommard, roses and peonies rising from the glass. The palate is juicy and supple on the entry, with creamy density and a cushioned mid-palate, framed by notably fine tannins. A wine of great purity, with bright red berries persisting on the finish.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+
Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2032
£795/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
Les Vaumuriens-Hauts is at the top of the slope, close to the woods. A deep ruby colour, with aromas of bitter cherries, liquorice, cedary spices and caramel. The palate is sweetly fruited, with pliant sucrosity and dark cherries, framed by fine tannins and shot through with a driving energy. Really good.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2032
£875/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
Clos des Avaux sits in the centre of the swathe of Beaune premiers crus, just beneath Champs Pimont. The domaine has half a hectare here, of 45-year-old vines. I would envisage a similar drinking window to the Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves, below.
£725/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
Grèves is considered by many to be the greatest site in Beaune. Dark, spicy aromas, attractively floral and lifted. The darkly-berried palate is pure and immediate, with sucrose-laden fruit delineated by chalky minerality. A firmer tannic chassis of admirable precision. Lean and focused on the finish, with dark perfume and sweet spices persisting.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2037
£1,075/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
“I work with the vines, rather than making the vines work for me.”
LOÏC DUGAT, JANUARY 2023
Clos de Fixey is a 0.29 hectare walled vineyard, planted with 45-year-old vines, on the slopes above the Route des Grands Crus. The domaine being the sole owner, it is a monopole. This was one of the few wines we were not able to taste.
£475/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
This is the domaine’s only offering from Vosne-Romanée and, although it is a village-level wine, it is labelled “Très Vieilles Vignes” to relect the 80-year-old average vine age. It also comes from very grown-up terroir. Half is from Quartier de Nuits – a village climat wedged between Grands Échézeaux, Suchots and Clos de Vougeot – and half from Échézeaux. Dark and strident, with fresh berry fruit and grilled meats on the nose. The palate is initially firm and shy, before opening onto a flawless, generous and frankly gorgeous mid-palate. Really very good.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2038
£995/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
The Gevrey VV and the following wine, Coeur de Roy, are in a sense the heart of the domaine. Certainly not plentiful but they are, let’s say, less tiny (3-4,000 bottles per year). This Vieilles Vignes cuvée is made from 1.3 hectares of 40-50-year-old vines. A pure, vibrant nose of full, deep, dark berry fruit, very Gevrey in character. The palate opens clenched and precise, developing a spicy richness and a gourmand, cherried, cola-fruited sweetness and generosity, whilst retaining real elegance. A wine of supple texture and charm.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18+
Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2038
£745/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
Named after the family who previously owned the vineyards around the domaine, Coeur de Roy is made from 50-110-year-old vines. It is a selection from four plots, spread over three hectares and is the ‘largest’ volume cuvée at the estate (all things are relative…) Dark, peppery aromas, revealing exotic spices with time in the glass. The palate is cool, focused and deeply fruited on the entry –pure, dark cherry fruit framed by fine, chalky tannins. The transition from mid-palate to finish sees an explosion of energy and freshness. Eight barrels have been made in 2021. To be bottled in March 2023.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2040
£845/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
Évocelles, although a village vineyard, is the continuation of the line of premiers crus that runs from Clos SaintJacques to Cazetiers and on to Champeaux. Loïc Dugat described it as “one of the greatest lieux-dits of GevreyChambertin.” The domaine has three quarters of a hectare of 65-year-old vines here. More deeply, darkly fruited than the preceding Gevreys. A few choice tasting quotes: “seductively serious” (Will) and “heady perfume, sexy palate, with a creamy, supple, rounded finish” (Adam). You get the idea – succulent, verging on hedonistic. Five barrels are normally made, but there were only two in 2021.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2040
£995/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
La Perrière lies just downslope from Mazis-Chambertin grand cru, on the other side of the Route des Grands Crus. There are just 0.08 hectares of 60-year-old vines here. A total contrast to Évocelles, in that Perrière had its cards close to its chest when tasted in January 2023. Full and dense, with fresh acidity and a clenched twist of fine tannin currently keeping things under wraps. Glimpses of great things to come, once this overcomes its youthful sulk…
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2037+
£1,695/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
Corbeaux is directly beside Mazis-Chambertin. The oldest vines here are 90 years old. Profound red berries, with sappy spices and crushed-rock minerality. So pure. The palate is cool-fruited and brisk on the entry, quite shy when tasted in November 2022, taking its time to unwind on the mid-palate, and slowly revealing small blackberries, crunchy raspberries, elegant dark spices and chalky, fine, powerful tannins. Just two barrels were made in 2021.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2037
£1,695/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
Champeaux is the northernmost premier cru, before Gevrey-Chambertin gives way to Brochon. This is a 0.33 hectare parcel, whose vines range from 55 to 80 years old. Bright aromas, with a hint of gloss and toffee on the nose. The palate is spicy, peppery and dark-fruited, with a core of concentrated, vibrant old-vine raspberry fruit. A wine of energy, drive and freshness.
Corney & Barrow Score 18 - 18.5
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2037
£1,695/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
We are often asked by customers for guidance on the quantities they should order.
All of the domaine’s wines are allocated. Our suggestion is that you simply order what you would ideally like to receive. To order, please call or email your usual sales contact.
• Should you wish to sell the wine in the future, do please offer Corney & Barrow first refusal as this will ensure the integrity of secondary market distribution.
• May we please have your order by Friday 31st March.
The domaine’s holding in 1er Cru Petite Chapelle is just 500m from its Charmes-Chambertin. Dark, sweet-fruited cherry and berry fruit, with hints of liquorice and bitter chocolate. Chalky-mineral on the attack, luminous and brimming with nervy energy, expanding into a more voluminous mid-palate. Patience required here – this will blossom into a forceful, driving wine, kept in check by its fine, chalky tannins. The oldest vines here are almost 90 years old. Only four barrels were made in 2021.
Corney & Barrow Score 18+
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2037
£2,095/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
The domaine’s tiny 0.14 hectare holding here comprises two south-facing parcels, 100 metres apart. The vines are between 45 and 65 years old. As Loïc described it, it is a wine “of grand cru quality, defined by the combe” – the Combe Lavaux side valley which brings cooling breezes from the hills. If Champeaux and Petite Chapelle are strident and forceful, Lavaux St-Jacques is pure elegance. So classy, the almost effortless perfumed dark berry fruit delineated by fine stony minerality.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2040
£2,095/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
Fonteny is just above Mazis- and beside RuchottesChambertin. It is a warm site, nestled in a dip in the slope where the line of great Gevrey grands crus meets the Combe Lavaux side valley. The domaine has a miniscule 0.09 hectares here, whose vines are between 56 and 80 years old in 2021. The planting density here is 15,000 vines per hectare. Not tasted due to the truly tiny volumes.
£2,095/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
Seven barrels were made in 2021 from the domaine’s 0.47 hectare holding in Charmes. The vines here are over 70 years old. Loïc Dugat introduced this as “un vin discret”. Insinuating sweet dark fruit aromas, with a hint of coffee bean and cedary spices. The palate is compressed, tightly packed with flavours of red and deep dark fruits, framed by fine, grippy, potent tannins, all lifted by fresh, tensile acidity. Coiled and brooding at present, this wine’s famously charming side just biding its time.
Corney & Barrow Score 18+
Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2040
£1,450/Case of 3 bottles, in bond UK
Mazoyères, with its prominent minerality, could be called the intellectual sibling of Charmes. The domaine has just 0.23 hectares here. Pale ruby colour. What a wonderful nose – spices, roses and liquorice. Then that chalky minerality, accompanied by ripe red berries. The palate is cool and precise on the entry, quickly opening onto a kaleidoscopic mid-palate of raspberry and wild strawberry fruit – shockingly pure, with stony-mineral texture beneath. Wow. Just three barrels were made in 2021.
Corney & Barrow Score 19
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2040
£1,625/Case of 3 bottles, in bond UK
This tiny 0.22 hectare plot of 70 year-old vines was one of the first vineyards to which Loïc Dugat took us when we visited last summer. I have a feeling it is particularly close to his heart. He described the wine as aérien –that wonderful French word which is almost impossible to translate (ethereal, soaring, airborne…) Rose petal and blue flower aromas, with wispy red berry perfume. Spicy too, almost the entirety having been fermented as whole bunches. The palate is sappy and cohesive, tightly coiled whilst allowing fine red berry flavours to seep from its depths. A rare 2021 more of the air than the earth. As my colleague Joe Muller put it: “a stunner”.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 - 19
Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2040
£2,100/Case of 3 bottles, in bond UK
The domaine’s Bourgogne Blanc was the surprise hit of a recent dinner. I won’t wax too lyrical as we have next to no availability but, for what is a humble Bourgogne and a young vines cuvée by Dugat-Py standards (just 20-year-old vines), this punches way above its weight. It comes from two parcels – one in Gevrey-Chambertin and the other in Puligny-Montrachet, so is an intriguing blend of the two Côtes. Rich green-yellow colour. Salty and oyster-shell-mineral, the nose is so expressive. Focused green citrus on the textured palate.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2027
£350/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
Sous Frétille is a steeply sloping premier cru overlooking the village of Pernand-Vergelesses and opposite the En Charlemagne lieux-dits of CortonCharlemagne. We visited when it was being ploughed by horse in summer 2022, which really underscored the gradient. Pears and crushed-rock minerality on the nose, with a dash of yellow fruit. The palate is generous and full, with that distinctive Corton whiff of chalk, before coming to a supple, silken finish.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18
Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2030+
£795/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
The vines here are an impressive 90 years of age, hence the Très Vieilles Vignes suffix. This 0.21 hectare plot was acquired by the domaine in 2003. So small we did not get to taste it in 2021, alas.
£945/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
Morgeot lies at mid-slope, towards the south of the Chassagne-Montrachet appellation. This is a 0.24 hectare plot of 80-year-old vines, acquired by the domaine in 2004. Golden-yellow colour. Tasted after Sous Frétille (see previous note), this is much rounder and fuller, with golden fruit. The palate is rich, generous and nutty, with a nicely poised sense of weight.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+
Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2030
£1,595/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
The domaine’s 0.24 hectare plot of Corton-Charlemagne is in the En Charlemagne sector, on the PernandVergelesses side of the hill. Golden-white colour. Aromas of lemon zest, flint and salty minerality, leading into a generous, energetic palate of richness and silky texture. This combines richness and austerity brilliantly. Just four barrels were made, although ‘only’ 25% was lost to the frosts. Bottled in early January 2023, just before our tasting.
Corney & Barrow Score 19
Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2032+
£2,850/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. For the benefit of simplicity, wines are scored out of 20. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score.
Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.
LONDON
1 Thomas More Street London
E1W 1YZ
T +44 (0)20 7265 2400 sales@corneyandbarrow.com
EAST ANGLIA
1 Rous Road
Newmarket, Suffolk
CB8 8DH
T +44 (0)1638 600 000 newmarket@corneyandbarrow.com
NORTH OF ENGLAND
4 Park Square East Leeds
LS1 2NE
T +44 (0)1748 828 640 northofengland@corneyandbarrow.com
EDINBURGH
Oxenfoord Castle by Pathhead Midlothian, Scotland
EH37 5UB
T +44 (0)1875 321 921 edinburgh@corneyandbarrow.com
AYR
8 Academy Street, Ayr Ayrshire, Scotland
KA7 1HT
T +44 (0)1292 267 000 ayr@corneyandbarrow.com
FACEBOOK @corneyandbarrow
TWITTER @corneyandbarrow
INSTAGRAM @corneyandbarrow
www.corneyandbarrow.com