‘‘Je vous parle d’un temps que les moins de 20 ans ne peuvent pas connaître.’’
“I’ m talking to you about a time [or weather…] that the under-20s have never known.”GUILLAUME D’ANGERVILLE, QUOTING CHARLES AZNAVOUR
While pouring us his Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets during our visit in November 2022, Guillaume d’Angerville announced, “This is my only barrel of Caillerets so please concentrate…”
Urbanity aside, this underscores the truly tiny quantities we are dealing with in this frost-struck vintage. Caillerets and Clos des Angles have been made in individual magnum format only, and Pommard 1er Cru Combes Dessus not at all…
Guillaume d’Angerville succeeded his father, the highly respected Jacques d’Angerville, who died in 2003. Returning to the domaine from a career in banking, Guillaume represents the family’s fifth generation.
Guillaume works alongside his brother-in-law, Renaud de Villette, who assisted Jacques d’Angerville for many years and François Duvivier, the domaine’s Régisseur. The domaine began the conversion to biodynamics in 2006, with certification obtained in 2009.
The d’Angerville family’s close involvement with Burgundy beyond the domaine has been continued by Guillaume. He is president of the Climats du vignoble de Bourgogne, which successfully applied for the vineyards of the Côte d’Or to be recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The notes in this offer are from the above-mentioned tasting in November 2022 at the domaine and a second showing with Guillaume d’Angerville in London in March 2023. Beautiful wines – if only we could clone them somehow…
GUY SEDDON, HEAD OF FINE WINE BUYING April 2023
Domaine Marquis d’Angerville has been owned by the same family for more than two centuries and, over the previous three centuries, by the Dukes of Burgundy and Kings of France.
The first record of the estate, in the village of ‘Vollenay’, was in 1507.
In 1804, Baron du Mesnil acquired the Clos des Ducs and the surrounding plots – Taillepieds, Caillerets and Champans – which, in the 12th century, had formed part of the famous holdings of the Dukes of Burgundy.
In the second half of the 19th century, the estate passed to Baron du Mesnil’s son, Eugène du Mesnil. On his death in 1888, Eugène du Mesnil, without direct heirs, bequeathed it to his nephew and godson, Sem, Marquis d’Angerville, then aged 15.
Sem took possession almost 20 years later, after the phylloxera crisis that ravaged the vineyard at the end of the 19th century. From 1906, the recently renamed Domaine Marquis d’Angerville began to reconstruct its vineyards, replanting them with what are now the prized Pinot d’Angerville clones.
Sem d’Angerville was an early adopter of estate bottling and exports, initially focused on the United States. He was also a founding member of the National Institute of Appellations of Origin, the INAO. When he died in 1952, his son Jacques took over the domaine.
As quality-driven as his father, Jacques d’Angerville expanded the domaine’s reputation and did much to raise the image of Volnay. He held positions on several Burgundian bodies, including as chairman of the BIVB predecessor. He died prematurely in July 2003, leaving behind 52 vintages and a magnificently maintained estate.
Jacques’ son Guillaume d’Angerville took over the domaine in 2003. He is supported by his brother-in-law, Renaud de Villette, who worked alongside Jacques d’Angerville for 15 years, thereby ensuring the family-run continuity of the estate.
GUILLAUME D’ANGERVILLE
November 2022
Winter 2020-21 was very mild again, like the two preceding vintages. Temperatures remained generally positive from December to March, except in the first half of February, when the lowest temperature was circa -8°C. But with the end of the month spring-like warm, February’s average temperature ended 2°C above historical averages. Winter rainfall was fine. By the beginning of March, we had excess water reserves of approximately 100mm compared to historical averages.
The beginning of March was rather cold, which was helpful to cool off the vines after the warm temperatures of late February, but the last few days of the month were very warm (with a peak of 27°C), and the vegetative cycle was at full speed again. Timing of budbreak (end of March/ early April) was in line with 2020, which was one of the most precocious vintages in living memory. Things looked good, and at that point, anyone would have signed up for a repeat of 2020.
Then it all unravelled.
Temperatures dropped from 25-27°C to below zero in just a few days. The frost hit three nights in a row (5th, 6th and 7th April), with 6th April the most brutal. We saw temperatures of -4° to -6°C, and it snowed around midnight on the 6th. Humidity combined with negative temperatures is lethal. Five years after the previous frost-affected vintage (2016), damage was considerable, especially in the premiers crus, where budbreak was almost complete. Game over. We were now working for a quarter of a crop, at best.
April and May were both quite cold. The vines, stressed by the frost, took a while to recover and resume progress. We sprayed our first biodynamic preparation (500P) on 5th May. The vegetative progression was uneven until June when the weather finally returned to normalcy. We estimated the flowering to have taken place around 12th June. The plants decided to accelerate, helped by high temperatures.
In contrast with the previous vintages, July was not particularly warm and quite wet. Progress was slower, and the rain meant that véraison (when the grapes turn red) was delayed until August, which was also colder than usual. In terms of sun hours, the 2021 growing season was below average in every month except April (July and August together were 17% below average). Rainfall was in line overall, but a lot of the rain came in July and August. Summer looked like fall. Another expression of climate disruption. Unsurprisingly given the weather, mildew and oidium had a field day in 2021. Disease pressure was high from late June and into August.
A cool vintage was to be expected.
September started beautifully: good light, warm temperatures, and a gentle North wind to concentrate the berries after the August rain. It was good to have three weeks in September before the harvest. The increase in sugar concentration is slower later in the season, and selecting the correct harvest date was therefore much easier than in 2020. We started on 20th September. The rain stopped us almost immediately but did not last. The season was difficult until the very end. On average, yields were down in the low teens, but the premier crus were harder hit than the regionals, where budbreak had not happened when the frost came.
‘‘Je vous parle d’un temps que les moins de 20 ans ne peuvent pas connaître…’’ Just like in the Charles Aznavour song, those who got interested in Burgundy 20 years ago or less may find the wines of the 2021 vintage disconcerting because they are so different from what we have produced over that period. Yet for us, they bring a welcome reminiscence of the wines of 40 years ago: subtle, crystalclear, lower in alcohol (we decided against chaptalisation), vibrant, joyous almost, with a very precise definition, and exceptional drinkability. We wish we had more.
“1985, 2016 and now 2021: the frost strikes back”
GUILLAUME D’ANGERVILLE ON THE 2021s
November 2022
The Marquis d’Angerville Pinot Noir clones are unique, producing particularly small grapes. These make for a high ‘skin to juice ratio’ and rich tannins, affording the wines a natural substance and presence.
The domaine’s holdings were replanted following phylloxera by Guillaume d’Angerville’s grandfather, Sem, shortly after his arrival at the domaine in 1906.
A century later, in 2006, the domaine began conversion to biodynamic viticulture. It is now wholly biodynamic. In our recent tasting last December, Guillaume mused, “The wines are more spherical as a result of biodynamics.”
THE VINEYARDS IN NUMBERS:
The domaine has 16.5 hectares (ha) of vines …or 6% of the total 280ha in Volnay
Of these, 12.9ha are premier cru …which is 12% of Volnay’s total 110ha premier cru vineyard
November 2022
The grapes are 100% destemmed and transferred to vats. They are cooled before fermentation, which lasts 15-18 days, with a gradual and controlled rise in temperature, reaching a maximum of 30-32°C. Extraction focuses on remontage (pumping over) rather than pigeage (punching down).
Once fermented, the must is gently pressed and the wine descends by gravity into oak barrels, in the cellars directly beneath the cuverie. The maximum proportion of new oak has declined and is now around 20% for the premiers crus.
The wines remain in barrel for around 18 months, with malolactic conversion occurring in spring or early summer following harvest.
Several weeks before bottling, the wines are transferred to tank to blend and settle. Fining and filtration are only used when absolutely necessary and only ever on a small proportion of the wine. The wines are bottled using corks from Trescases.
“Cool, late vintages like 2021 are good for yeasts and better for vinification.”
GUILLAUME D’ANGERVILLE
This is a special bottling for C&B which, for only the second time, will bear our own label. It comes from 0.6 hectares below the village of Volnay, in Monpoulain. A lovely nose of rocks and oyster shells. The palate begins with greengage and gooseberry, opening to reveal green apples and pears. A wine of balance and purity, very impressive. Vinified in stainless steel.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2023 - 2025
£80/case of 3 bottles, in bond UK
This comes from vines in the clay-rich Grandes Terres, just below Volnay. A generous nose, open and with ripe stone-fruits. The palate has a waxiness of texture, with a nice weight to the finish. Lithe but persistent. This receives 12 months of ageing in 350 litre barrels and six additional months on its lees in vat, the second winter in the cellar bringing out a little extra richness.
Corney & Barrow Score 17 - 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2023 - 2026
£115/case of 3 bottles, in bond UK
This is from the lieu-dit Les Plures, the largest section of Santenots, which may be labelled Volnay for Pinot Noir or Meursault, as here, for Chardonnay. The vines here are just over 30 years old. A gorgeous nose, of expressive stone-fruit, with a certain lushness. The white peachfruited palate is waxy and stony-mineral, with fabulous tangy zip and lift.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2028
£340/case of 3 bottles, in bond UK
Half Gamay, half Pinot Noir, as is permitted in a Passetoutgrains. As Guillaume d’Angerville has said, “I love the Passetoutgrains for several reasons – it is crisp and easy to drink, plus it is a typically Burgundian wine.” The holdings here have been slightly enlarged thanks to an acquisition from a neighbouring estate. Cedar and crushed rock minerality, with pretty rose petal perfume and deft red berries. The palate is mid-weight and crunchy, with fine raspberry flavours. Ferrous and grippy on the finish.
Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 - 17
Recommended drinking from 2023 - 2025
£80/case of 3 bottles, in bond UK
£60/case of 1 magnum, in bond UK
This comes from a plot on the other side of the Route Nationale, called Grandes Terres, opposite Volnay. Red berried and with a gratifying weight and intensity of flavour, framed by fine, perfume-infused tannins. Everything a Bourgogne Rouge should be, with the elegant delicacy of the 2021 vintage.
Corney & Barrow Score 17
Recommended drinking from 2023 - 2027
£115/case of 3 bottles, in bond UK
£80/case of 1 magnum, in bond UK
Frémiet has just one foot of limestone-rich topsoil over the bedrock – which perhaps explains its intensely mineral nature. It is a mid-slope site, bordering Pommard. Dark berries and dark rocky minerality, with cedary spices. The palate is polished and so fine on the entry, opening onto a mid-palate of translucent fruit, which allows a clear view of the textured mineral base.
Corney & Barrow Score 18+
Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2038
£315/case of 3 bottles, in bond UK
£215/case of 1 magnum, in bond UK
Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection.
Wines are scored out of 20. Customers seem to like it and it has the benefit of simplicity.
We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a „+" is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score.
Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine.
A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.
Marquis d’Angerville is the principal owner of Champans, with four hectares in two plots. This is also the domaine’s largest holding. Whilst the soils at the top resemble the mineral-rich Caillerets, the bottom is deeper and more ferrous, making for a riper style. Intense, sweetly fruited aromas of raspberry and rose petals, with cedary spices. The palate is poised beautifully between the fleshy and the ethereal, wanting to taking off but ultimately staying in the earthly realm of pleasure. As Guillaume d’Angerville said to us last year: “I view this as the ultimate Volnay Premier Cru (Clos des Ducs is apart).”
Corney & Barrow Score 19
Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2037+
£365/case of 3 bottles, in bond UK
£250/case of 1 magnum, in bond UK
A high, exposed slope to the south of the village. Taillepieds’ white marl sub-soil brings mineral tension, with 30cm+ of brown earth lending a lightness of touch. Blackberry and deep, shiny fruit, with pristine cedary spice. The palate is pure and resonant, so refined. As Guillaume d’Angerville has said, Taillepieds is “more like JS Bach” – elegant yet reserved, a wine you have to work harder to understand…
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2038+
£365/case of 3 bottles, in bond UK
£250/case of 1 magnum, in bond UK
CLOS DES DUCS MONOPOLE
The 2.15 hectare monopole Clos des Ducs stretches away from the domaine buildings on a steep south-tosouth-east-facing slope. This is a warm site thanks to its reflective white marl soils, with underground springs providing water. Aromatically closed for a long time in the glass, it eventually came out of its shell, showing the most beguiling dark berry perfume. Super mineral on the palate, with a fabulous brightness of acidity and flinty, chalky-mineral charge.
Corney & Barrow Score 19
Recommended drinking from 2029 - 2040+
£695/case of 3 bottles, in bond UK
£470/case of 1 magnum, in bond UK
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