THE WINES OF ROBERTO CONTERNO
INTRODUCTION
If I ever write a book (an intention) and it touches on wine in any way, then Roberto will feature.
I adore visiting each year. The time of doing that has varied from May to September. My chosen path is Milan Malpensa to Nervi (45 minutes or so). Visit the vineyards, if possible, see the cellar and taste before a brilliantly elegant lunch in Cucina Nervi. Post lunch is the twohour drive to Monforte. Then either a tasting and cellar visit in Monforte or vineyard visit in Serralunga. Dinner will follow at any one of the many great ristoranti in the region. Discussion flows and all topics are discussed in a melange of Italian and English the latter for my benefit alone. The following morning, whichever of the tasting or the vineyard visit had been missed is done. With that I am always left with a strange mix of awe, excitement, respect and a shattering feeling that I have achieved so little in life. The drives between Nervi and Monforte and then back to Milan give time for reflection. My conclusion is almost always the same:
A great man:
Brilliant wines:
Impressive projects:
Roberto Conterno & Nervi
To this offer - the notes on the wines are taken from two tastings, one at each winery. I would like to draw your attention to two particular sections in this offer:
When, how and what to drink now – I tweak this each year, it draws on my experience of drinking Nebbiolo and Barbera. Any feedback or questions are welcomed.
Cucina Nervi, Ristorante Bovio, the glasses 3
Monfortino - what’s coming and more interestingly what’s not! In this section I cover the fact there is no Monfortino in 2017 & 2018 before a possible trio thereafter. The devil is in the detail so please have a read.
Enjoy the offer.
WILL HARGROVE Head of Fine Wine
October 2024
A TIMELINE OF ROBERTO CONTERNO
Whilst the acquisition of Nervi means Roberto often needs to be in three places at once, there has not been even a moment’s rest at Conterno. A brief recent history…
2008 – Cerretta
A new vineyard purchase. Planted with both Nebbiolo and Barbera. The first addition to the estate since the acquisition of Cascina Francia in 1974.
2015 – Arione
Another new site, this time planted solely with Nebbiolo. Both Cerretta and Arione are of course in Serralunga so the addition is both logical and coherent. Arione is a south facing (and therefore earlier ripening) extension of Cascina Francia.
2017-2019 – The Sensory Glass (See Page 32)
2019-2021 – Complete re-building of Nervi winery & cellars
2021 – Opening of cucine Nervi www.cucinenervi.com
2020-2022 – The Symphony glass (see page 32)
2024 – Bovio restaurant
A wonderful site in La Morra. January saw the ink dry on this purchase. Having been to Bovio a few times it is very exciting. Amazing views. Refurbishment is due to be completed in October (2024).
If one adds to all this, the incredible rigour with which Roberto has overhauled the inspection and treatment of corks and the development of the Cantina itself, then it really has been an incredible run of projects. There are few places in the wine world where you feel you could literally eat off the floor of the winery. I can’t work out whether the facilities more resemble a car tuning workshop (think Alpina or AMG) or a monastery. Either way the tranquillity and calm is a startling contrast to Roberto’s energy and dynamism. (Oh, and he designed and launched a vineyard Robot and his own ski as well).
AZIENDA VITIVINICOLA NERVI
“Conterno and his team have made a series of stellar wines”
ANTONIO GALLONI
It was so very exciting when we first heard of Roberto Conterno buying Nervi. With Roberto having expanded the great Cantina Giacomo Conterno estate by acquiring a part of the Cerretta vineyard (in 2008) and then Arione (in 2015), he had clearly been on the lookout for opportunities. Those of you that know Roberto will understand that detail is his thing, whether it is in the vineyard, in the winery or adding to the family’s holdings. Back before 2018 Nervi was very much on my radar, from the two previous occasions I had tasted. Both times I was sufficiently intrigued and impressed to do a write-up on my own blog. I liked the wines very much, but that crucial, human link just wasn’t there yet.
It is becoming more than something of a cliché these days to say that great wines are “grown and not made” but it is very clearly the case here. The combination of the soils, the aspect, the light and the altitude is something of a perfect storm for the Nebbiolo grape. There are three wines in this offer, all from Nebbiolo. Gattinara 2021 itself is joined by two 2020 single vineyard bottlings – Valferana & Molsino.
Below I have largely repeated our initial text on the history and geography as well as information on the essential human elements of Nervi as I feel it is crucial to set out the stall clearly on this exciting area and estate.
NERVI A BRIEF HISTORY
Azienda Vitivinicola Nervi. Founded by Luigi Nervi in 1906, Nervi is Gattinara’s oldest operating winery. Luigi’s son, Italo, grew the company by purchasing vineyards and expanding their cellars. Italo passed away in 1975, with no direct heirs and left his shares in Nervi to other relatives.
The company was then sold to Germano Bocciolone in 1991, a steel manufacturing entrepreneur, who embarked on a massive investment programme, including a stainless steel vinification plant, 40 new Slavonian oak barrels and the replanting of the Molsino vineyard. His sons sold the majority share to the Astrup family in 2011. Erling Astrup had asked Roberto Conterno for his opinion before buying, and after tasting older vintages, Conterno said it was wholly impossible not to make great wine here.
In April 2018, Roberto Conterno, acquired 90% of Azienda Vitivinicola Nervi. Between early 2019 and mid 2021 Roberto has embarked on and completed a brilliant re-organisation and rebuilding of all the wine making, maturation and cellaring facilities as well as the addition of a new restaurant.
As you would expect it is not just any restaurant – strongly recommended and under an hour from Milan Malpensa. The restaurant has a great team and two wine lists (Contero wines and everything else – including a great range).
THE GATTINARA REGION
Azienda Vitivinicola Nervi dates back more than 100 years. The history of wine in the area goes back even further. The 10th century tower, Torre della Castelle, that still stands prominently above the town (at a similar height to the top of the Molsino vineyard) was built to guard the vineyards. The Valferana vineyard, can be traced back to 1242.
In 1787, Thomas Jefferson (remember that name for a new wine mentioned later) stayed at the Hotel “Tre Re” in Vercelli and drank his first Gattinara. The wine made a lasting impression and was the beginning of his passion for Nebbiolo. From the evidence in his journals, it has been deciphered that this wine was most likely a sparkling rosé: “There is a red wine of Nebiule made in this neighbourhood which is very singular. It is about as sweet as the silky Madeira, as astringent on the palate as Bordeaux, as brisk as Champagne. It is a pleasing wine.” Things have moved on since then!
Until the end of the 19th century, Gattinara was held in far higher regard than either Barolo or Barbaresco. Phylloxera ravaged the vineyards, reducing the area
from over 600 hectares to just over 100. In 1872, a relative of Luigi Nervi’s, Pietro Giovanni Nervi, helped establish Italy’s second oenological research station in Gattinara. The analysis performed at the centre resulted in the 1875 quality classification of North Piemonte’s terroirs. Gattinara was placed first, followed by Lessona, Grignasco, Ghemme, Cossato, Sizzano, Boca and Briona. The head of the research station, Giovanni Battista Cerletti commented:
“The best wines of North Piemonte enter into the category of Grands Vins d’Italie and match the great wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy, particularly the latter to which the North Piemontese wines are similar. This conclusion is supported by the prices obtained by a good Gattinara or Ghemme.” Italo, the only son of Margherita and Luigi Nervi, was largely responsible for obtaining the official DOC classification for Gattinara in 1967, with the higher quality DOCG classification obtained in 1990. The wines must contain at least 90% Nebbiolo, known locally as Spanna, with up to 10% Bonarda di Gattinara and no more than 4% Vespolina. Ageing is in oak for a minimum of one year, two years for riserva, plus two years in bottle.
THE VINEYARDS
A series of seismic events has given the area of Gattinara a unique soil structure. 280 million years ago, volcanic rocks were created when the Valsesia super-volcano erupted. Then, when Africa collided with Europe to form Monte Rosa 60 million years ago, these rocks were forced to the surface as gravel. Most of this was washed away over time, except for that of Gattinara’s higher slopes. This has created a unique mineral-rich terroir. The gravel is rich in iron, manganese, zinc and copper. In addition, the high clay content - paralleled by Serralunga d’Alba - and an absence of chalk, give rise to acidic soil conditions, perfectly suited to Nebbiolo. Nestled in the foothills of Monte Rosa, the vineyards are protected from northerly winds.
There are 28 hectares (ha) under vine:
Molsino, at 12ha, is Alto Piemonte’s finest southfacing amphitheatre. 7-8ha would ordinarily be considered for the Vigna Molsino bottling. The altitude is 350-420m.
Valferana is 8ha in size and is particularly high in iron and manganese, up to six times that of other Nebbiolo producing regions. Around 3-4ha would, at the moment, be considered for the Vigna Valferana bottling. The remainder is for the Gattinara. The altitude is 320m.
Garavoglie is 7ha and was replanted in 2015 with thirteen different Spanna (local name for Nebbiolo) clones, ensuring the original Nebbiolo clones of Alto Piemonte remain an integral part of Nervi vineyards.
Casaccie is the last site, at a minute 1ha. Pruning and harvesting at all sites is carried out by hand.
THE WINERY
Enrico Fileppo, now ably assisted by Matteo Gioioso, is the chief oenologist and has been with the winery since 1983.
In the cellar, native yeasts are used. Roberto is incredibly hands-on here, as one would expect. For the single vineyard wines - Vigna Valferana and Vigna Molsinothere is gentle destemming and crushing. Fermentation is in truncated conical oak vats, at controlled temperatures. Maceration lasts three to four weeks. The ageing that follows is for a minimum of 40 months in old wood.
The sizes of the old wood vary up to 76hl; it is an extraordinary cellar. For the Gattinara, similarly, destemming and crushing is very gentle, followed by fermentation, again at controlled temperatures. The ageing here is for 30 months in large old wood. Large oak casks, or botti, are used for ageing. More than 100 years of wine production have shown that only through a long and controlled ageing process can the high potential of Nebbiolo tannins be transformed into a well-balanced wine. For this reason, in the Nervi cellars, ageing time is lengthened to more than that required by the Gattinara DOCG. The minimum ageing required by the Gattinara DOCG is three years, one of which must be in cask. The wines of Nervi age, as above, for four years, at least two and a half years of which are in oak. This explains Luigi Nervi’s motto: “Nectar in tempore”, perfection with time.
Two other wines are currently produced, the Rosato, which is now joined by a sparkling Nebbiolo called Jefferson – offered for the first time last year.
THE WINES
Il ROSATO
2023
A vibrant pink in the glass – nothing pale and Provençal here. The nose has masses of red fruit, when served cooler there is focus with some grip. As the temperature rises the nose is more generous and opulent, with sweeter red fruits. The palate has a great balance of extrovert ripeness and a little tension. Don’t be afraid to leave this out of the fridge (or ice) once you start drinking.
Corney & Barrow Score 17+
Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2026
£159/Case of 6 bottles, inc duty and VAT
£116.48/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
JEFFERSON
2019 (disgorged April 2024)
VINO SPUMANTE DI QUALITA, ROSATO, METODO CLASSICO
Roberto Conterno is a big fan of quality sparkling wine and Nervi has given him this opportunity. Made from 100% Nebbiolo it does say “Zéro Dosage” but in fact there is around three grams added (as is permitted). About 8590% of the fruit for this wine is sourced from outside the estate’s own holdings. The first bottling was the 2017 –miniscule quantities. Sadly 2018 was not much larger. I said last year that the production was unlikely to ever exceed 2,000 bottles BUT Roberto is so enjoying this project that from 2023 the production should be around 20,000 bottles. Still tiny.
The 2019 is in a rather splendid bottle that reminds one slightly of one of his favourite Champagne producers (buy a bottle to find out which…). The nose is of red berries with that telltale Nebbiolo salinity, very moreish. I found this delicious over the course of 30 minutes or so, changing in the glass with air and temperature. Perfect alone or with lighter dishes.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18
Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2030
£300/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
GATTINARA
Bottled in June this year. The 2021 season in Gattinara was good and really showed the normal evolution, an exception being a very hot week in June followed by hail. This resulted in a drop in production of the Gattinara from a normal 40,000 bottles to just 14,000 bottles. A combination of the direct damage of the hail and a savage selection thereafter. Hail makes for a loss of crop and hard work but does not have a qualitative effect.
Powerful nose, there is both a savoury deep side and a lovely fruit character, red and brown fruit. This fruit dimension comes out more and more with air. The palate presents rich long tannins. There is a creaminess that comes from these tannins being so ripe. The saline edge is a joy. This takes you on a real journey, there is a spice as well as the fruit and tannins – quite something.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2026 – 2036+
£340/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
GATTINARA ‘VIGNA VALFERANA’
2020
The two Crus – Molsino and Valferana - always enjoy an extra year in bottle before release, both having been bottled in June 2023.
Striking to the eye, bright. Plush, rich, full with some degraded fruits on the opening. This rolls out the flavours in quick time, darkish fruit with a red fruited lift. The tannins are there but so well integrated that they are stealthy rather than obstructive. This is long and decadent – good luck keeping this once you have a case at home.
Corney & Barrow Score 18 - 18.5
Recommended drinking from 2025 – 2038
£595/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£1,295/Case of 6 magnums, in bond UK
£490/Case of 1 double magnum, in bond UK
GATTINARA ‘VIGNA MOLSINO’
2020
A little shyer than the Valferana. The impression is of clarity and precision. The palate in contrast is silken, cashmere like. It has cherry and darker fruits on the palate, a length that lasts minutes, not seconds. The nose starts to open just as the palate leaves you profoundly impressed. Serious wine.
Corney & Barrow Score 18 - 18+
Recommended drinking from 2025 – 2036+
£595/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£1,295/Case of 6 magnums, in bond UK
£490/Case of 1 double magnum, in bond UK
Tasting Guide
Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. For the benefit of simplicity, wines are scored out of 20. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score. Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Fiat with a Ferrari, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.
CANTINA GIACOMO CONTERNO
A Brief History of Cantina Giacomo Conterno
Representing the third generation, Roberto Conterno, is very much at the helm of this legendary estate. Roberto has a palpable love and profound respect for his inherited terroir.
In 1974, Giovanni Conterno, Roberto’s late father undertook the fortuitous and massively courageous investment in the fourteen-hectare monopole of Cascina Francia, in the commune of Serralunga d’Alba. At 400 metres above sea level, there are fourteen hectares here, 4.6ha of seriously good Barbera and 9.4ha of Nebbiolo – an outstanding site.
In 2008, Roberto stamped his mark on the family history, acquiring 3ha of Cerretta, 1ha of very lovely, forward Barbera and 2ha of Nebbiolo, also in Serralunga d’Alba.
Then, in 2015, he added the stunning, highly prized, 9 hectare vineyard of Arione, next to Cascina Francia, to the family holdings. Increasing and advancing the estate for the second time, under Roberto’s tenure, this exhibits tremendous commitment to the future by the Conterno family and a major coup.
Two years ago I said that 2016 was in Piedmont, and much of Europe, lauded as a great vintage. It is exactly that. Why then was there no Monfortino 2016? I put this to Roberto and the answer is clear.
There is always one botti (large barrel) that is earmarked to be designated as Monfortino and the intention is always to release it as such, unless you get vintages like 2013 and 2014 where the entire crop fits the bill. In the case of 2016 Roberto simply felt that the Monfortino barrel did not stand out as being Monfortino, so it was combined with the Barolo Francia that was released four years ago.
Well, the bad news for lovers of Monfortino is that this year there is no 2018 (as there was no 2017 either). But we are at the end of a trio of “Nonfortinos”. The good news is that the quality of 2019, 2020 and 2021 Nebbiolo is incredibly high. Next year we should see the release of the 2019 Monfortino which will include all the Nebbiolo (for Barolo) from both Francia and Arione – a feast after a famine. To follow there should also be a Monfortino in the 2020 and 2021 vintages. I hope that’s clear, any problems just ask the team.
BARBERA 2022 VINTAGE
I am an unreserved fan of these serious Barberas. The 2022 vintage was one that in many ways suited the earlier ripening, darker Barbera more than Nebbiolo. Like much of Europe in 2022 Piedmont was very dry with intense heat.
BARBERA ‘VIGNA CERRETTA’ 2022
A deep dark cranberry fruit to the nose, quite extrovert in expressing itself. The cranberry gives way to a fleshy cherry fruit. There is both an intensity and freshness to this structured beauty.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18
Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2033+
£345/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
BARBERA ‘VIGNA FRANCIA’ 2022
A serious almost sinisterly dark fruit with the tell-tale saline edge alongside a mineral, wet stone and graphite coolness to the nose. This is complimented by a more open, dark fruited and lush palate. Quite a kaleidoscope of dimensions here. Super!
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18.5
Recommended drinking from 2027 – 2035
£345/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
NEBBIOLO 2021 VINTAGE
As alluded to above there isn’t much to split 2019, 2020 and 2021.
NEBBIOLO D’ALBA ‘VIGNA ARIONE’
2021
A real insider’s selection this – a wine for the aficionado. This is from the part of the Arione vineyard that lies outside the commune of Barolo. My note starts “so pretty, lovely fruit, clean and poised”. This is a wine of great elegance but don’t be fooled there is profound stuffing. The palate balances the fruit of the nose with a salty and gently spiced finish. Grab it!
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2037+
£875/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£335/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK
NEBBIOLO 2020 VINTAGE
“Conterno fans will find a lot to like in the 2020 Barolos”
ANTONIO GALLONI
I asked Roberto for a comment on the trio of 2019, 2020 & 2021 from a Nebbiolo standpoint. His answer was an interesting one. He likened the trio to the 1999, 2000 & 2001 vintages. The thinking being:
1999/2019 - Structured - therefore more traditional.
2000/2020 - Elegance - more open earlier and a little plusher.
2001/2021 - A combination of the above.
It is interesting to note that in both trios there were Monfortinos produced every vintage. I will present the 2020 Barolos in the order that they were tasted, which as it happens is in South-North order. Arione and Francia are continuous with each other then there is a 5 minute drive to Cerretta, all with Serralunga of course.
BAROLO ‘ARIONE’
2020
Serious, taut, poised. This has a real beauty to it, a sort of firm elegance. The power is all there but presented in a perfectly tailored suit. Wines with such balance are always hard to define with straightforward adjectives. It is hard to believe that Roberto hasn’t always made this wine.
Corney & Barrow Score 18 - 18.5
Recommended drinking from 2029 - 2040+
£1,175/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£435/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK
£905/Case of 1 double magnum, in bond UK
BAROLO ‘FRANCIA’
2020
This is more insular, more breadth and bigger shoulders, more minerality and salinity and less overt fruit. As with Barbera, the fruit is a palate thing. It has everything there, tightly packed but darker fresh fruit that will redden later. Some spice and an awesome length. Everything this wine should be. I don’t know whether I’ve done it justice in words - you should buy it.
Corney & Barrow Score 19
Recommended drinking from 2030 - 2044+
£1,175/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£435/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK
BAROLO ‘CERRETTA’
2020
Always more open with it’s showing of fruit on the nose. Pungently perfumed with a crunchy but succulent redder fruit character. There is an opulence here that speak to the higher clay element on the soil. A crowd pleaser with hidden depths. Very Cerretta.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5
Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2042+
£1,175/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£435/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK
£905/Case of 1 double magnum, in bond UK
WHEN, HOW & WHAT TO DRINK NOW
BARBERA
In most vintages the Barberas here drink best, in my view, at four to nine years of age. They become more savoury over time and continue to age (a few years ago 2001 Francia with Roberto was superb and 2008 and 2012 Cerretta last year were both great) but, as you would expect, have a less defined varietal character and energy. The 2017, 2018 and 2019 vintages are very good now. In fact I had a bottle of the Cerretta 2017 with Roberto’s son Gabriele and assistant Stéphanie only last month. As these are unfiltered and Barbera is a thick-skinned grape variety, I would recommend standing the wines up for a few hours and decanting 15-30 minutes before serving. The perfect wine to have at home for when you just want something delicious without breaking the bank and knowing you’ll get a great experience.
BAROLO & NEBBIOLO IN GENERAL
The warmer vintages drink very well when younger and served a shade cooler (14-15°C). The “recent” vintages in this bracket are 2007, 2009, 2011 & 2017. These are all ready to enjoy. I recommend continuing to cellar the 2004, 2006, 2008, 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015 & 2016.
This is not me telling you what to do. It is my view on how you might approach drinking these wonderful wines. The wines from 2001 and before are ready to drink (according to your taste), though 2001 and 1999 continue to be youthful and are evolving gracefully. Sediment is less of an issue than with Barbera so I would either allow the wine to breathe standing up with half a glass removed (drunk!) or decant gently before serving. I far prefer the wine to warm gently and develop aromas in the glass so I, personally, do not advocate extended decanting, although some people do. As you may also find with younger serious pinot noir wines there is often a stellar window to enjoy the wines in the first 12-18 months after bottling.
BAROLO RISERVA MONFORTINO
This is a wine with a vast drinking window, one of the most long-lived of all wines. The youngest vintages that I feel are drinking well now are 1997, 1998 and 2000. I would never put someone off drinking a younger vintage (especially 2014 because of the link to the 2002) as the enjoyment of watching a wine develop bottle by bottle from youth to full maturity is one of the real joys of wine. Younger vintages will require more time in the decanter.
I had a very interesting chat with Roberto about the fact that some of the hotter vintages of Nebbiolo oddly (to my mind) seem to have less colour than the longer cooler vintages and he said it is all related to the pigment Malvidin. Malvidin is an O-methylated anthocyanidin so if you fancy exploring this then Google away!
GLASSWARE
The Sensory glass project was first conceived in July 2017 as a result of a discussion between Roberto and Zwiesel Kristallglas. Roberto had been asked by them to design a glass.
This is a project born of Roberto’s fanatical obsession with detail and the desire for his wines (and happily others) to be enjoyed to maximum effect. The glasses are NOT designed as purely a glass for Nebbiolo and/or Barbera but for all wines. They are designed to be very light but at the same time sturdier than they may feel or look. They are available in both the UK and Hong Kong. I have been extensively trialling the glass (it’s all part of the service!) over the past years and think it is exceptional. Do not take my word alone for it though – you can see the glass being used more and more around the world.
Symphony - Last year I was delighted to try Roberto’s other new glass – the Symphony – which is designed for sparkling wines. It is a joy and is also available in the UK and Hong Kong. Feel free to order and we will deliver asap.
SENSORY GLASS SYMPHONY GLASS
£340.50 inc VAT per 6 glasses
£363 inc VAT per 6 glasses
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