EXCLUSIVE TO CORNEY & BARROW IN THE UNITED KINGDOM
“Rearranged my inner pantheon in the way that truly great wine can.”
“Make no mistake about it, this is a very special wine made on a very special estate.”
Jancis Robinson
Andrew Jefford
The Matrix – so many quotes to choose from, and one of the great film soundtracks, at the centre of which is Australian musician Robert Dougan’s 1995 track, ‘Clubbed to Death’
For our purposes, Robert, along with his wife Karine Ahton, are the owners of La Pèira. In his words, “You could say La Pèira was bought for a song”
The first vintage of La Pèira was 2005. The estate, in Karine’s native Languedoc, was purchased by the couple in 2004. As journalist David Schildknecht wrote of Robert’s inaugural 2005 vintage, this is a property to which “instinct led him, either with remarkable prescience or remarkable luck.”
Whichever it was, the successive decade and a half has seen the estate forge a reputation as one of the most exciting Languedoc newcomers since the arrival of neighbouring Grange des Pères and Mas de Daumas Gassac. Critical praise has been so glowing, we are spoilt for choice.
TheTerrassesduLarzacappellation,inwhichLaPèirasits,isa place of Bordeaux-like gravels. This is a tough Mediterranean land, in whose hilly villages the French of nearby Montpellier gives way to the Occitan language, binding it to that ancient cultural thread which stretches from northern Italy, through southern France and into Catalonia. It is also the home of Roquefort cheese…
We can’t wait to get started with this new UK exclusivity. There are two reds and two whites – a first and second wine of each. The reds are classic Rhône blends (Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre…) and the whites combine Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne and the local Clairette. The reds, especially the grand vin, will repay cellaring, whilst the whites can be enjoyed in their youth.
Robert and Karine, thank you and here is to putting La Pèira firmly on the wine map, where it deserves to be.
GUY SEDDON Head of Fine Wine Buying July 2023In 2004, Robert Dougan and his wife Karine Ahton, who was born in neighbouring Montpellier, took over La Pèira. Robert had, some ten years earlier, emigrated from his native Australia to London, starting as a dishwasher and working his way up to a career in music.
Fast forward a few years and he was a Grammy nominee, signed to a record label as an artist, with his orchestral music heard in films and on record.
Speaking of the Terrasses du Larzac, Robert describes “a region that’s unfolding before our eyes, in our lifetime. The idea that we can make history now, and be a part of that, is exciting.”
In a journey once considered extraordinary, but now less uncommon, winemaker Benjamin Lureau's travels in wine have ranged from Burgundy to Barossa, from Tibetan terraces in the foothills of the Himalayas to La Pèira’s Terrasses du Larzac - itself in the foothills of the Causse du Larzac and the Massif Central. His experience includes a period working with C&B's longstanding friend Sylvain Pitiot, previously of Clos de Tart.
La Pèira is located between the villages of Sainte-Brigitte and Jonquières, in the Terrasses du Larzac appellation, at 120 metres above sea level. Although the appellation dates from just 2005, this is a region with a long winemaking history.
The Romans were the first to plant vines here. The land around Lodève was especially attractive, stretching along the Roman Way, which would have been very busy at that time, connecting Cessero (known today as Saint-Thibéry) to Segodunum (Rodez).
The appellation lies in the north of the Hérault department and includes the old villages of Montpeyroux and SaintSaturnin. Here, the summers are hotter and longer, the
winters harsher than on average in the region. There tends to be rapid warming in spring with prolonged good weather in early autumn.
Terrasses du Larzac rises to more than 800 meters of elevation, but the AOC-classified vineyards range from 50300 meters, planted on the hillsides of causse (an Occitan word meaning ‘limestone plateau’) and the area’s old terraces.
As the Terrasses du Larzac appellation is for reds only, the whites are labelled as Pays d'Hérault IGP.
“These are the first extensive vineyards in France we can be certain about.”
Hugh Johnson, The Story of Wine
La Pèira has 15.3 hectares under vine, spread over various parcels dotted around the estate buildings.
Notable parcels include Bois de Pauliau, Belle Fiolle (Bellefeuille) and Les Pointes.
Soils are quaternary alluvium, the alluvial subsoil dating from the Pliocene age. Walking through the vineyards, it is mainly clay underfoot, with stony deposits which originate from the north, from the 150-million-year-old Jurassic limestone mountains. A gravelly mixture of sand, silt and clay is deposited in the bed of streams and in what are known as alluvial cones.
Black grape varieties include Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Carignan. The whites are a blend of Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne and Clairette.
This corner of the Languedoc has a long history of white wines. As Robert Dougan said, I suspect with a dose of modesty, “We knew absolutely nothing [of this] when we first stumbled upon several rows of white grape varieties on the Belle Fiolle parcel which we had previously thought to be a plot of young Syrah vines.” La Pèira’s first white was made from these initial rows of Viognier and Roussanne.
Viticulture follows organics, without certification. Soils are ploughed by tractor, with debudding carried out on all plots. The Syrah and the white grape varieties are trellised on three wires, whilst the other red wine varieties are trained in goblet form.
Manual harvest is followed by 100% destemming. Grapes then pass through a vibrating sorting table, followed by a sixperson manual sorting table.
Annual production is 4-6,000 bottles of the grand vin, La Pèira (red) and 6-8,000 bottles of the second red wine, Las Flors de la Pèira. There are around 600-1,000 bottles of La Pèira Blanc and 3,500-4,500 of the second white, Deusyls de la Pèira Blanc.
Many
• Very early budburst.
• The year began with a cold and rather dry spring which constrained the vegetative development of the vines.
• June heatwave, which broke France’s historical record (since beaten by 2022, I suspect…).
• The very dry growing season led to significant drops in volume from the previous year which itself was lower than the norm (down by 20%-30%).
• Dips in temperatures at night during September and some beneficial rainy episodes helped ripening continue.
• An extended summer period made for a concentrated vintage with tannic force and lower acidities.
The 2019 reds are exuberant, powerful and deeply coloured, with silky tannins (“almost oily in the texture”, as Robert says) yet with beautiful freshness.
• Generous autumn rains led into a very mild December (2°C above the long-term average).
• A warm February (the warmest since 2001 in Hérault).
• Early budburst.
• Frost risk but no significant damage, unlike 2021.
• Warm conditions in April and May, leading to successful flowering.
• Unusually heavy rain in May, which caused some downy mildew (less severe than 2018).
• Cool, stormy weather in early June, followed by a hot, dry summer, without heatwaves.
• Early harvest with an average-to-good volume of juicy grapes and well-balanced musts.
• Dry, hot weather from mid-June.
The 2020 whites of La Pèira balance acidity and richness rather brilliantly.
thanks to Robert for these notes on the two vintages in our offer.
“A very dry and warm vintage, similar in some ways to 2009”
“Elegant, fresh and aromatic whites, with the wonderful typicity of white Rhône varieties – an excellent vintage for the whites”
Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection.
Wines are scored out of 20. Customers seem to like it and it has the benefit of simplicity.
We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score.
Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine.
A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.
Las Flors is the second wine of La Pèira and is a blend of Syrah (30 years old), Mourvèdre (28-35 y.o.) and Grenache (28 y.o.), with supporting performances from Cinsault (42 y.o.) and Carignan (56 y.o.). It comes from a vineyard called Belle Fiolle in Occitan (Bellefeuille in French). A lifted nose of elegant dark berries with blood orange, iodine, hot-earth minerality, garrigue and lavender. The palate has an imposing presence of succulent, spicy raspberry and blackberry fruit, framed by firm, finely extracted tannins. Lingering stony minerality, garrigue spices and leather on the finish. 30% new oak. 14.5% abv. 8,400 bottles were produced.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2023 - 2028
£235/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
La Pèira is predominantly Syrah (from 25-year-old vines), with some Grenache (28-year-old vines). It comes from a plot called Bois de Pauliau, adjacent to the estate buildings, in the Terrasses du Larzac appellation. Darklyfruited aromas of blackberry, cassis and bitter cherry, with a beguiling Rhône-like waft of white pepper and lavender, and a hint of the sauvage. The full-bodied palate is textural, with juicy raspberry and a core of pure, dark fruit, underpinned by slaty (for want of a better word…) minerality and herbaceousness. A unique wine, whose striking mineral dimension draws you in. As Robert said, with almost abashed pride, “it’s like a found object”. 14.5% abv. 6,000 bottles were produced.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18
Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2034
£395/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
Deusyls is the estate’s second white. 40% Roussanne, 25% Grenache Blanc, 25% Clairette and 10% Marsanne. This is a blend of two sites: Belle Fiolle (replanted 2009) and Les Pointes (replanted 2011). Aromas of pear and white peach, with apple skin, cream and blanched almonds. The medium-bodied palate is crunchily textured, with hay and pâtisserie lingering. The finish is bitter (in a good way) and gently grippy, which adds precision. A fabulous food-friendly white which can be drunk immediately. 14.5% abv. 3,600 bottles were produced.
Corney & Barrow Score 17+
Recommended drinking from 2023 - 2025
£175/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
La Pèira Blanc is a blend of Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier, in equal parts. It comes from two sites: Belle Fiolle and Les Points. The Roussanne and Viognier here are much older than in the second white, Deusyls, having been planted in 1994, whilst the Marsanne vines date from 2009. Pale amber colour in the glass. Aromas of fresh citrus and apricot. The palate is full-bodied, a saltygranular line balancing out the rich stone-fruit. A joyous wine, whose grape varieties of course conjure the Rhône valley, but which somehow also brings white Bordeaux to mind. Fermented at 18°C. 50-60% new oak. 14.5% abv. Just 600 bottles were produced.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2023 - 2026+
£395/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
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