2022 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR
CORNEY & BARROW UK EXCLUSIVITY LAUNCH
Juliette & Jean Orsoni
THE BEAR, THE WELL, THE WINE
« Ce qui embellit le désert, dit le petit prince, c’est qu’il cache un puits quelque part... »
“What makes the desert beautiful,' said the little prince, 'is that somewhere it hides a well.”
Puy de l'Ours. It may not roll off the Anglophone tongue but there is a story here. Combining their surnames, Juliette Puyperoux and Jean Orsoni have created something that is both new and evokes a fantastical world of legend.
Now, I am guessing here. I’m sure Juliette and Jean will set me straight when we see them in London soon. But Puy is pronounced the same as puits, a well. And one of the domaine’s wonderful labels draws its inspiration from Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, whose Little Prince speaks of a well, in the quote above. Then we have Ors, or ours, a bear. So a bear in search of a well… a well of wine, of course.*
Domaine du Puy de l'Ours was established in 2019 by Juliette and Jean. Following successful careers in Paris, their desire for a simpler, rural lifestyle and their mutual love of wine ultimately led them back to Juliette's family’s winemaking roots in Burgundy.
In Puy de l’Ours, they have created a 7.5-hectare domaine centred on the pretty village of Savignylès-Beaune. Following a recommendation (see below) and having read an intriguing article in Le Figaro, Adam Brett-Smith and I visited Juliette at her family’s bucolic 19th century home and winery.
The domaine’s first vintage was 2021. A tricky year, thanks to the now-infamous spring frost. Juliette and Jean were quite rightly highly selective and so made a tiny amount of wine in their first year – just 5,000 bottles. Happily, I came across one of those bottles in a wine bar in Beaune, with a customer who had ordered it for lunch and texted to say that I had to try it.
We feel fortunate to have discovered Puy de l'Ours and can’t wait to introduce it to our customers. The wines are already in the UK and available for delivery. Quantities of this launch vintage are small but this is, without doubt, a name to watch.
GUY SEDDON HEAD OF FINE WINE BUYING
JULY 2024
* Also possible is Puy: a geological term used in Auvergne for a volcanic hill. (As in Puy de Dôme on the Tour de France 2024 route.) But I prefer the bear and the well…
THE VINEYARDS
The Puy de l’Ours wines are made from 100% domaine-owned fruit. Most of the vineyard holdings came from Juliette’s family, who in the past had sold the grapes.
Planting density is the Burgundy standard of one vine per square metre, or 10,000 vines per hectare. Pruning is done as late as possible, to protect against spring frosts. Most of the vines are cane pruned using the traditional single Guyot method. However, Clos des Godeaux & L'Absurde Blanc de Noirs (which come from the same parcel) are pruned shorter, using the Cordon Royat method, to limit vigour. Juliette and Jean aim for yields in the range of 4045hl/ha. 2022 fell within this range.
Environmental concerns are clearly close to Juliette and Jean’s hearts. They have secured AB Organic certification and practice minimal intervention in both the vineyards and the cellar. They are also committed to reducing their ecological impact through carbon footprint analyses. This dedication to sustainability not only informs their wines but comes from a desire to preserve Burgundy's heritage for future generations.
Next on the agenda are trials with cover crops and an even greater viticultural focus. Juliette and Jean produced just 5,000 bottles in their inaugural (and frost-affected) 2021 vintage. 2022 is over three times that size. They are still in the process of getting the vineyards where they want them and that inevitably means selling off grapes and being highly selective on the sorting table.
L'Absurde Blanc de Noirs
Côte de Beaune Les Monsnières
Savigny-lès-Beaune Clos des Godeaux
Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Follettes
Savigny-lès-Beaune
* remainder sold off as grapes
/ 0.24ha
/
THE CELLAR
Whites
White grape bunches are whole-cluster pressed, with 24-48-hour cold settling. The two Chardonnays go through full malolactic in barrel, whereas the Blanc de Noirs’ malo is halted at around two-thirds, in order to preserve malic acid and therefore freshness. White wines are aged for 9-15 months in 228L and 400L barrels, with occasional bâtonnage
Reds
Fermentation lasts 16-24 days. Use of whole bunches ranges from zero for Clos des Godeaux, to 50% for Les Follettes, to 100% for 1er Cru Les Lavières. Reds receive light daily pump-overs and just two foot punch-downs at the end of fermentation. Ageing takes 10-12 months in barrel. There is no fining, an occasional light filtration and minimal sulphur additions where needed.
20% new oak is used for Côte de Beaune Blanc Les Monsnières and Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Follettes, 10% for Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Lavières and none for L'Absurde Blanc de Noirs, Savigny-lèsBeaune Les Goudelettes or Savigny-lès-Beaune Clos des Godeaux. Oak
THE 2022 VINTAGE
From the extremes
The weather in 2022 was described by Juliette as "once again extreme". After a winter that was milder and drier than usual, the first green shoots were observed in the early days of April. A mass of cold air from the north caused temperatures to drop across Burgundy.
Juliette and Jean said they briefly feared the worst but shortly after, the weather warmed up. In midApril, summer-like temperatures and a sustained dry spell encouraged rapid growth through to flowering, which took place between 19th and 26th May, two weeks earlier than average.
Summer was very hot, with low rainfall. Sugar levels across the estate progressed slowly and sometimes paused. Rain finally fell in mid-August, allowing the vines to finish ripening and produce their juice. Harvest began slowly on 26th August, finishing on 10th September.
As Juliette put it, although 2022 was a year without frost, oïdium (powdery mildew) pressure required constant vigilance, and was felt in particular in Côte de Beaune Les Monsnières. There was also hydric stress, of varying degrees, particularly in the Petits Picotins parcel, the main constituent plot of Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Follettes.
Alcoholic and malolactic fermentations at the domaine were relatively quick. As the end of September and beginning of October were warm, it was important to be vigilant during vinification and monitor bacteria and volatile acidity levels. With endearing understatement, Juliette commented that the newly fermented wines had “a nice balance between concentration and fresh fruit.”
TASTING NOTES
WHITE WINES
L'ABSURDE BLANC DE NOIRS
A white wine from 100% Pinot Noir grapes – different, yes, but not so absurd. Soil expert Claude Bourguignon advised that this terroir would work well for whites. 0.24 hectares in Clos des Godeaux, the same vineyard as the first of the reds, planted in 1968. A surprisingly (or perhaps not) Pinot-like nose! Substantial aromas of fleshy apricot and peach, with creamy intensity and peppery spices. The palate has a citric energy – zesty orange. Textured and medium-to-full bodied, with some grip and a bitter phenolic twist on the finish. Two-thirds malolactic fermentation is followed by 10 months’ ageing in old oak barrels, with occasional lees stirring. 12.5% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 17+
Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2027
£180/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE BLANC LES GOUDELETTES
Les Goudelettes is a 0.33 hectare plot in the hills to the north of the village of Savigny, planted in 1990. Pure and brightly fruited aromas of white and yellow peach, with jasmine perfume. The full-bodied palate is both exuberant and fine, the rich fruit held in check by a clear stony purity and definition. A tactile wine of extract and presence, which comes to a well-defined salty finish. Full malolactic in barrel followed by ageing for 15 months on lees in 300L barrels, with occasional stirring. No new oak, no filtration. 12.5% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+
Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2028
£235/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
CÔTE DE BEAUNE BLANC LES MONSNIÈRES
Monsnières comes from 1.49 hectares of Chardonnay vines on the west-facing high slopes of the Montagne de Beaune, at 350m elevation. Half of these vines date from 1992 and the other half from 2015. A vibrant lemon-amber colour in the glass. Bright, intense aromas of yellow peach and apricot, with tangerine zest and honeysuckle, which carry through onto the medium-full bodied palate. A tactile, potent white, sustained by fresh acidity. Picked in early September 2022. This started its fermentation in stainless steel tank and finished in 400L barrels. Full malolactic in barrel and 10 months’ ageing, with occasional bâtonnage. 20% new oak. 12% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5-18
Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2027
£225/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
RED WINES
SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE CLOS DES GODEAUX
Planted in 1968, Clos des Godeaux comes from 1.61 hectares of south-facing vines, at around 300m elevation. Fine raspberry and rose aromas, with bitter cherries. The palate is crunchy and deft, offering red cherry and berry fruit, framed by fine supple tannins and with excellent purity. Light on its feet, with good precision –lovely near-term drinking, but with enough substance to develop over five years and more. 100% destemmed. One light pump-over per day, with two foot punch-downs at the end of fermentation. Aged in barrel (no new oak) for around 10 months. The yield here in 2022 was 30hl/ha. 12.5% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 17+
Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2030
£225/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE 1ER CRU LES LAVIÈRES
2022 is the first vintage of Les Lavières, the domaine’s only premier cru (so far). This 0.8 hectare holding is close to Serpentières, which we know from Domaine Patrick Javilier. 100% whole-bunch fermentation introduces intense exotic spices and incense to the dark berry aromas. The palate has a sappy focus, ushering the blackberry and dark forest fruit into a long, driving finish, all framed by deftly fruit-coated tannins. A wine of impressive ageing potential. 10% new oak. Bottled unfiltered in November 2023. 12% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+
Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2036
£265/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE LES FOLLETTES
This comes from four plots in Savigny: Petits Picotins (55%), Grand Picotins (5-10%), Aux Fourches (30-35%), Saucours (5%). 0.78 hectares, planted between 1960 and 1979. In a sense, Les Follettes sits in the middle of the other two reds. Whilst Clos des Godeaux is totally destemmed and Lavières 100% whole-bunch fermented, this is halfand-half. 50% stems makes for a spicy nose, and there is more blackberry fruit in the mix – this is darker and riper than the playful Clos des Godeaux. The palate is supple and exotically spiced, the pretty raspberry and wild strawberry fruit lifted by fresh acids and finishing sappy and focused. Excellent – lovely wine. 20% new oak. 12.5% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5-18
Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2032
£225/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
Tasting Guide
Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. For the benefit of simplicity, wines are scored out of 20. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score.
Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.
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