Japan is a world apart

Travel and photographs by Dean and Maureen Eckenroth, as told to Travel Editor Kris Grant

Last summer, 17 days in August to be precise, the Eckenroth family – Dean K. Eckenroth, Jr., (our esteemed editor of Eagle Newspapers that includes Coronado Magazine), his wife Maureen and their son Conner went on vacation to the Land of the Rising Sun, Japan.

That’s quite an ambitious trip, I thought, especially for Dean, who, now well into his fifth decade, had never left the country. In fact, he confessed, even on their honeymoon in New York City in 2013, he brought his laptop along to continue working on the weekly paper. Maureen was understanding then, but on this international trip they agreed: no work allowed. (Though, in a twist of fate, it was Maureen who found herself doing work this time.)

I travel a lot, but must admit that I’ve been timid about visiting Asian countries where

English isn’t the norm and the culture is remarkably different. But after chatting with Dean and Maureen, and learning about how they not only successfully navigated their way around Japan, but thrived in an entirely foreign environment I feel much more confident in heading halfway around the globe to the “land of the rising sun.”

Japan owes that moniker to the mythology that it’s the first country to see the sun each day. Well, technically that would be New Zealand, but Japan’s the country that claims the distinction, especially with the crimson sun on its flag.

Here’s the Eckenroths’ travel tale, in which they freely admit to a misstep or two (so we can all learn from them), and all of which were greatly outweighed by unexpected and joyous experiences, so much so, that they’re already planning a return trip.

Shibuya Crossing: Shibuya (in Tokyo) is famous for its scramble crossing, the “world’s busiest pedestrian crossing”, with upwards of 3,000 people at a time. A major commercial center, it also houses two of the busiest railway stations in the world, Shibuya Station and Shinjuku Station.

KG: How did you decide upon Japan for your summer vacation?

Dean: Conner graduated from Coronado High School last year and he has developed quite a love for the Japanese culture. He loves Japanese food, and anime, which is hand-drawn and computer-generated animation. He also taught himself to speak a little Japanese. I said to Maureen, “Why don’t we surprise him with a trip to Japan? And that’s when she surprised us!

Maureen: I had been squirreling money away over the past year and it was a blast to tell Dean and Conner that all we had to do now was figure out where we wanted to go and what sites we wanted to see. (Maureen works as a bookkeeper/accountant for Coronado Island Realty.)

KG: Did you use a tour company or figure out an itinerary on your own?

Maureen: No, we did it all ourselves. I did a lot of research online. We watched a lot of YouTube videos. We would type in “Japan: first-time visitors/must see places.” And then we’d go deeper on certain cities and regions. If we liked a particular video, we’d look for more videos or posts from that person.

Ginza Mitsukoshi: The flagship store in Ginza, Tokyo, traces its roots back to 1673.

Tokyo ... an introduction to a new culture

The Tomb of Toda Musui (above): Toda Musui (1629-1706) a poet of the Genroku Period. He served the Honda family before becoming a Buddhist priest living near Sensoji Temple. Sakuradamon Gate (below): Imperial Palace Grounds, Tokyo. Completed around 1620, it is the largest remaining gate of Edo Castle

Dean: We flew over on ANA (All Nippon Airways); the round trip for the three of us was $3,300. We flew from San Diego to Seattle on American, an ANA partner, and then on ANA to Tokyo’s Haneda International Airport. On the return trip, we flew to San Francisco on ANA and on to San Diego on American.

Maureen: Dean made all our airline reservations through the Travelocity website and all our hotel reservations through Booking.com.

Dean: We were satisfied with the airline, but I now see that Japan Airlines offers a direct flight, roundtrip, from San Diego to Narita Airport, also in Tokyo, for $748. That’s good news, as we plan to go back next January, when Conner is on semester break from San Diego State.

Dean: We definitely prefer not to go back in August! That was our first shock. We stepped off the plane in Tokyo and it was 90 degrees Fahrenheit and very humid at 10 p.m.

Maureen: Needless to say, after a tenhour flight, we were tired. We took a taxi from the airport to our first hotel, (Voga Corte Chidoricho), kind of a combination of condominium, Airbnb and upscale hostel. We didn’t know how to pronounce its name so we showed our I-phone to the cab driver and he nodded his head up and down in agreement and soon we arrived.

And then came our second surprise. Japan is very electronically savvy and instead of having a lobby with a staffed check-in desk, we stepped inside a closet-sized cubicle and were greeted by an I-Pad with a camera. To gain admittance, we had to enter our confirmation number and passport number. It took us nearly an hour to figure it out; we didn’t realize until the next day that there was a button to push for English.

Asakusa Shrine (below): a Shinto shrine in the Asakusa district of Tokyo, Japan, also known as Sanja-sama (Shrine of the Three Gods). An example of the gongen-zukuri style of architecture, the shrine was commissioned by Tokugawa Iemitsu and built in 1649 during Japan’s Edo period.

Dean: At the door to our room, a notice read “Please remove your shoes” with a shoe rack just inside the door. This was the practice in all our hotels and most provided slippers for us to wear in the room. The room itself was very clean and quite small, as was the case with all five of the hotels where we stayed. The photos on the Booking.com app made them all appear larger.

Maureen: All of our hotel bathrooms were “wet rooms,” meaning you could get everything wet. All featured a separate room for the commode, outside the shower and sink area. Their “toto” toilets are quite luxurious by American standards. They all had seats that warmed up plus a bidet function.

Dean: They’d light up and one of them played music! Hilarious!

Dean: The next morning when we woke up, we didn’t know where we were or how to get to Shibuya – Tokyo’s equivalent to Times Square. We were walking around and around, not knowing where to get a train or bus, nor how to pay for it, and we were all getting “hangry.” Finally, we asked a cab driver for help. He tried to help but didn’t speak English.

Maureen: Thank goodness for Google Translate! We also started to use Google maps, which gave us directions and approximate times we’d arrive. We made it to the train station where we purchased IC Cards and were soon on our way to Shibuya. (IC Cards are prepaid, contactless cards widely used across Japan for public transportation and shopping.)

Dean: Shibuya is filled with people and it has the busiest intersection in the world. We found some wonderful restaurants there and the food is just a fraction of what we pay to eat out here. As a result, many Japanese eat out frequently, much more so than in America.

Maureen: Tokyo is an exciting place, filled with neon lights, and we spent time here upon our arrival and also on our last two days before heading home. Speaking of eating, it is very much frowned upon to eat and walk. The custom is to sit and eat inside the restaurant. Portions are smaller than in American restaurants, therefore, the very thought of getting a “take out” bag is considered gauche.

Tokyo Station: a major gateway to the capital for visitors. The red-brick facade, built in 1914, gives way to a bustling underground city of train tracks, shops, and restaurants. Boasting an area of 182,000 square meters, Tokyo Station serves over 450,000 passengers every day.

Japan, and especially its megacities, are scrupulously clean; you don’t find trash strewn anywhere. You’ll find them next to food vending machines, at public restrooms and at “conbinis,” like 7/11s, which are everywhere in Japan. But chances are, if you have trash, it has to go inside your own bags until you get back to your hotel room.

Dean: Japan, especially Tokyo, is a shopper’s paradise, with a very favorable exchange rate; it was 163 yen to the dollar when we were there. This T-shirt I’m wearing would cost about $20 here; I got it for $4.99 in Japan. One of the most popular stores is Don Quijote. Its flagship store, called the “Megastore” is in Tokyo (Shibuya), with 12 stories, each level carrying different merchandise ranging from cosmetics to luggage to electronics.

Maureen: There’s an entire floor that sells merchandise with characters like Pokeman, Hello Kitty, Sanrio and lots of America’s iconic cartoon figures, like Snoopy. In most stores if you show your Passport and spend more than 5,000 yen on a purchase, there’s no tax. But they securely seal your package and you can’t use it until you’ve left the country. Pet stores are big in Japan as well; some even have cafes. And there are lots of cosmetics and skin care. Sun block and umbrellas are sold everywhere -- anything to protect your skin.

Dean: Many of the stores in Tokyo are tall and skinny -- several stories with skinny escalators. And in the Don Quijote store while you ride the escalator, you hear one song played over and over on a continuous loop:

“Don, Don, Don, Don Quijote! Don, Don, Don, Don Quijote! …”

It’s catchy and cute at first, but then it starts to drive you nuts.

The Ginza District (top left), a popular upscale shopping area of Tokyo, closes its major streets on weekends and holidays, setting up covered tables for pedestrians to enjoy their time while strolling and shopping. Don.Quijote (top right), often called just “Donki,” is a major discount chain store in Japan which is famous for crowding its stores floor-to-ceiling with an incredible variety of merchandise. This colorful Asakusa branch has all that, plus restaurants, karaoke facilities and a live music theater too, all spread out across seven floors.

On to Kanazawa ... Japan’s West Coast

Kanazawa Train Station: The wooden Tsuzumimon Gate outside the east exit is modeled after traditional Japanese drums called tsuzumi. The gate’s unique style has become a contemporary symbol of Kanazawa. The gate is connected to a large, contemporary-style glass structure called the Motenashi Dome.

KG: Tell us about riding on Japan’s famous bullet train, the “Shinkansen.”

Dean: We boarded at Tokyo Station, an impressive structure with a redbrick façade that was built in 1914. The station has 28 platforms and serves about 450,000 passengers a day. So it’s not surprising that the station has evolved into a bustling underground city connecting several massive shopping malls. The train traveled up to 175 miles per hour and we went from the east coast to west coast in about two and a half hours. The views gradually transitioned from Tokyo’s urban sprawl to rolling hills, rice paddies and to the mountain ranges of the Hokuriku region.

Maureen: It was a relaxing ride, with reclining seats and lots of room for luggage, both above our seats and near entry doors for larger luggage. It was immaculately cleaned prior to boarding. Passengers were always considerate, with subdued conversations. Any cell phone calls had to be taken in designated areas. Even the train glides smoothly along the tracks, adding to the quiet.

It was hot in August: Dean, like many locals and tourists, survived with a cold compress under his sunhat. He was thrilled when cool coastal breezes provided relief in the evenings.

Old And new side-by-side: The Japanese have thoughtfully preserved shrines and historic manors throughout their neighborhoods of modern high rises.

Dean: It also had free wifi; in fact just about everywhere we went wifi was free.

KG What makes Kanazawa especially notable?

Maureen: Kanazawa is a beautiful city known for its rich history, traditional crafts and stunning gardens. It traces its history back 442 years when the Maeda family began building their home, Kanazawa Castle, and an entire castle town around it. The Maedas were wealthy samurai nobility who ruled for fourteen generations until 1869. Much like Italy’s Medici family who supported such artists as Michelangelo and Botticelli during the Renaissance, the Maedas fostered Japanese arts from buildings and gardens to culinary arts and a culture of hospitality.

We knew this was a special place upon our arrival at Kanazawa Station, which is an architectural gem that combines history and modernity. Its famous wooden gate, Tsuzumi-mon, is shaped like Japanese hand drums. Just behind the gate is a glass-andsteel canopy that resembles a giant umbrella. Its name is the Motenashi Dome, which symbolizes “welcome.”

Dean: We really enjoyed touring Kenrokuen Garden with its koi ponds, pagodas and teahouse. The name Kenrokuen means “combined six” and refers to six characteristics for perfection derived from 11th century Chinese design theory: seclusion, spaciousness, artificiality, antiquity, abundant water and broad views. It was still hot and humid during the day, and the garden’s trees and waterways provided welcome relief.

Maureen: Kanazawa Castle is a national historic landmark with beautifully restored gates, turrets and gardens. Over the centuries, this peace-loving town avoided the ravages of war. It was not bombed during World War II, and so much of the ancient architecture has remained.

Dean: We took time to walk through residential neighborhoods here and were surprised to see blocks that included shrines and old manors surrounded by modern high rises. The country’s respect for tradition was evident everywhere and made for a richer overall experience.

Maeda Madam Palace (above): The 13th Lord of Kanazawa, Maeda Nariyasu, built a retirement villa for his beloved mother, Lady Maeda Takako, (later known as Lady Shinryuin,) within the grounds of the superb Kenrokuen Garden, adjoining the Maeda clan’s Kanazawa Castle in 1863. The palace, known as “Seisonkaku” is now designated an Important National Cultural asset.

Hisagoike PondKenrouken Garden (right): Kenrouken originated from this spot. This pond has a gourd-like shape, the waterfall in the background was made in 1774.

Oyama Jinja Shrine And Garden: The last garden the Maeda family built during the Edo period. The garden is known for its rare and uniqe landscaping, such as its central island whose deisgn was inspired by the shapes of musical instruments used in the Imperial Court.

Miyagawa River (above): The Wide View Hida train is a limited express service between Nagoya – Takayama and Toyama. The route starts at Nagoya station and follows the Miyagawa river into the Japanese alps. Along the way are there are plenty of scenic views from the Japanese countryside to the mountain landscape of the Alps. Street Canals of Takayama (below): A system of drainage canals dating back centuries line the streets of Takayama and serve to channel the rainfall into the Miyagawa River, which is home to large schools of Koi Carp.

KG: Did you buy a Kewpie doll, Maureen?

Maureen: (Laughing) No, I did load up on all sorts of very cute, small items at the Showa-Kan Museum Store. Everything was priced 25 to 50 cents, and I was going wild. When you walk in, they give you a basket and I filled it up with so much stuff for the grandkids.

Dean: (Also laughing) When we came home we had to pay $100 extra (each) for three pieces of overweight luggage!

- Handy Japanese Phrases -

For proper pronunciation, just ask Google. It’s best to practice and memorize before you go.

Konnichiwa – Hello

Sumimasen – Usually means Sorry, but also can mean Excuse Me

Arigato gozaimasu – Thank you

Ohayou gozaimasu – Good morning

Konbanwa – Good evening

Sayonara – Goodbye  Hai – Yes

Ie – No

Toire wa dokodes ka? – Where is the toilet?

Eigo hanashi masuka? – Do you speak English?

Osaka ... one day was not enough

Dotonburi (above): The Ebisubashi Bridge crosses the Dotonbori Canal and connects two of Osaka’s most lively neighborhoods, Shisaibashi and Dotonbori.

Maureen: We did a day trip to Osaka, again by train, which we came to realize is the best way by far to get around in Japan. Osaka was primarily a shopping trip. But we liked the city so much that we plan to fly into this city next year. It has a less formal, more down-toearth vibe than Tokyo.

Dean: Shinsai bushi is the major shopping district in Osaka. It covers an area bigger than Coronado. You can find anything and everything here. Conner needed a new backpack and we got him one at BIC Camera, which is kind of like a Best Buy.

Maureen: Secondhand stores selling designer merchandise are big in Japan. I splurged on a gift for myself, a “pre-loved” bag.

Dean: At nighttime the happening place to be is Dotonbori where visitors can get the full effect of the neon and LCD signage that brightens the night sky such as the Glico “running man” sign and the mechanical Kani Doraku Crab that moves its legs up and down both mounted on sides of building.

Maureen: Dotonbori is also the place to experience Osaka’s inexpensive food culture that includes the city’s local specialties. Many of the restaurants are open 24 hours a day.

The Glico Man: The Glico “running man” sign is a highlight of the Dotonbori night sky.

Shin Sai Bashi (right): The entrance to Shinsaibashi-suji, a covered shopping street in the center of the main shopping district in Osaka.

The Culinary Scene ...

Dean: If I have one regret on our trip, it’s that we didn’t schedule enough time for eating, and that’s a shame because the food is so good and so diverse throughout Japan. We often had breakfast or lunch at railway stations, where there are three and floor stories of shops and restaurants. Technology has made its way into much of the food service in Japan, but in a good way. You’ll find vending machines, displaying and dispensing some excellent dishes. We would buy a meal ticket at the entrance to a restaurant and the ticket would be handed over to the staff who would then prepare and serve the meal.

Maureen: Of course, we had wonderful sushi throughout the country, beginning in Tokyo. Osaka has more regional dishes that we didn’t get to experience, but we plan to on our next visit. One is kushikatsu, a dish of skewered, battered and deep-fried foods ranging from chicken or beef, or vegetables and there are even dessert versions. Another is takoyaki, which are grilled balls of batter with octopus inside. And okonomiyaki, which is like a savory pancake made with cabbage, scallions and a choice of meat or seafood.

Dean: We ate at an Italian restaurant in Tokyo, where I had the best pork chop I’ve ever had. But we learned that foods that are not Japanese are far more expensive there, especially pizza!

Maureen: One of the most memorable dishes we had was Hida beef in Takayama. We ate it raw and smoked, in beef stew and in sushi. It was like wagyu beef, with lots of marbling, so it melted in your mouth like butter.

Dean: A sushi shop owner in Kanazawa stopped by our table and talked with us and was so impressed we were from California. We got that a lot. California holds a special appeal for many Japanese. It made us almost a little homesick!

Dining In Takayama: “Hida” beef is the well-known attraction of dining in Takayama: In one restaurant, we dined in the traditional zashiki style at a low table where we sat on the floor (left), with a sunken area under the table. (“I could hardly get my legs under it" - Dean).

Starbucks Reserve: The location in Ginza (Tokyo) occupies two floors, with the second floor open only to members and offering extensive foods and pastries.

In Osaka, we enjoyed a pork ramen we ordered from a vending machine. After ordering, the machine printed out a ticket that we handed to an attendant beind the counter and our food was brought to us at the bar. Above right: A raspberry shaved ice was a refreshing treat in the middle of the daytime heat while visiting the Kenrouken Garden in Kanazawa.

... When You Go

Dean: Japan is a very safe country. You could leave your computer or phone – even money -- unattended at a restaurant and they would be there when you got back. Not that we recommend doing that!

Maureen: Several of Conner’s classmates from Coronado High School were planning solo trips to Japan after graduation. I was concerned at the time, but now I realize they couldn’t have picked a safer destination. Japan has one of the lowest crime rates in the world. I think it’s largely because its people pride themselves on respect, social harmony and honor.

Passport

You must have a valid passport and an onward destination or return ticket for tourist/business FOR “visa free” stays of up to 90 days.

Websites

Japan National Travel Bureau www.japan.travel

Japan-Guide www.japan-guide.com

A private website established in 1996 by predominantly English speaking writers and editors from Switzerland, Australia, France, the UK and Sweden, most of whom now live in Japan.

Some of the primary YouTube travel channels we used in preparing for our trip:

HarbLife - (destination guides)

Sam and Victor - (destination guides) Maurice Moves - (travel tips)

Kensho Quest - (travel tips)

Money

Dean: We recommend bringing yen with you because many of the more rural areas (and many smaller food shops) don’t accept electronic payments. Many major international airports have currency exchange services. It’s surprising for such a computersavvy country, but Japan is still predominantly a cash country. Cash is still king.

Maureen: You go shopping; you don’t order on Amazon in Japan.

Getting There

Japan Airlines

Japan Airlines has a direct flight to Narita’s Airport from San Diego. Round trip economy is currently $748. (There are two international airports associated with Tokyo: Narita, and Haneda Airport. Haneda is located in central Tokyo, itself, with Narita being about 40 miles outside Tokyo proper.)

www.jal.co.jp

ANA (All Nippon Airlines) www.ana.co.jp

Getting Around

IC Card

Maureen: We are planning our next trip next January and instead of staying in five hotels, we’ll limit ourselves to just two, because you can get to and from destinations so easily and inexpensively by train. Simply get an IC Card.

IC cards are rechargeable cards that were introduced in 2001. They can be used to conveniently pay fares on public transportation and to make payment at many vending machines, shops and restaurants. You simply tap the card on a reader.

You need to book a ride on the bullet train (Shinkansen) separately.

You can purchase an IC Card at the airport where you land or at ticket counters and ticket machines at railway stations, with an initial deposit of 2000 yen (about $12). Or, you can download the app to your smart phone and recharge it through the phone electronic payment system

Trains, not Taxis

Trains are the main public transportation throughout Japan. We didn’t see any Ubers, only taxis, which can be quite expensive.

Lessons Learned

Maureen: Between the three of us, we ended up with six pieces of luggage, and we had to transport them not only to and from the airport but also to our five hotels. That

won’t happen next time. My advice is to underpack. You’ll want to do a lot of shopping in Japan, so pack an expanding bag for your return trip or, better yet, plan on buying luggage when you are there to bring back. Do your biggest shopping on your last two days of your trip.

Maureen: The next time we go, we’ll stay at just two hotels, one in Osaka and one in Tokyo, one north and one south, now knowing how easy it is to travel by train to nearby and not-so-nearby destinations.

Hello Kitty (right): Sanrio’s beloved “Hello Kitty” is truly everwhere in Japan, including rail promotions and painted on the side of “themed” trains. Shinkansen (below): The Shinkansen (or bullet train) arrives in Kyoto, before boarding for the return trip to Tokyo.