Scottsdale, Arizona

‘The West’s Most Western Town’ enters its Super Season

by Kris Grant

I hope you’ll make a New Year’s resolution to visit Scottsdale at least once this year. It’s good for your soul, and will probably lower your blood pressure a notch or two.

I’ve visited Scottsdale many times in all four seasons and as recently as last month, when the city celebrated the holidays in splendid style. Scottsdale is now preparing for its “Super Season” of golf tournaments, rodeos, the world’s largest car auction, Major League Baseball Spring Training, and more.

But there’s more than just events that pull me over to Scottsdale. Tops on my list is the awesome Sonoran Desert landscape.

The mountains that rise throughout this desert are a stark contrast to coastal Southern California. Boulders and majestic cacti accent earthen hues of rich red iron and creamy sandstone. It’s a photographer’s delight.

First, a little history

Scottsdale is about eight miles wide and 32 miles long. The city began as a small farming community when Rhode Island banker Albert G. Utley subdivided 40 acres of virgin desert land into town lots in 1894. Surprisingly, agriculture, particularly cotton, flourished in this desert region, made possible from rainwater runoff from the surrounding mountains. Canals dug by the ancient Hohokum tribe, which occupied the area from about 300 to 1500 AD, first harnessed the rainwater. Today’s modern waterways follow roughly the same pathways. Today, Scottsdale has a five-year supply of water in its underground aquifers. Its central canal runs through Old Town and taps into the Salt River. The Scottsdale Waterfront is a popular tourist destination with restaurants, boutiques and upscale residences bordering both sides.

The town was named Scottsdale to honor U.S. Army Chaplain Winfield Scott, whose untiring efforts brought most of the early settlers to the new community. In 1888, he purchased 640 acres in what is now downtown Scottsdale.

The city was incorporated in 1951 with a population of 2,000. Today, Scottsdale is home to 244,000. Wisely, city planners set aside land to be left in its natural state. The McDowell Sonoran Preserve in the city’s northern reaches, is the largest urban wilderness area in the United States. It was once the location of a 44,000acre cattle ranch, whose cowboys would annually drive the cattle to stockyards on city streets. That’s what prompted the city’s chamber of commerce in 1947 to adopt the moniker, “Best Western Town in the West,” the precursor for the city’s motto today.

Our media group was transported to a remote spot in the Sonoran Desert where we and the saguaros watched the sun go down. Then Cloth & Frame event group presented us with a beautiful wine-paired dinner (wines by Arizona Stronghold Vineyards).

Photo by Kris Grant.

Desert Beauty Forever

At the McDowell Sonoran Preserve, you’ll find more than 215 miles of trails through diverse and scenic desert terrain. It’s a permanently protected area where hawks soar, deer roam and boulder fields reach to the sky.

Further south, Camelback Mountain is so named because it resembles a camel at rest, the “head” of the camel composed of red sandstone; its hump of granite rising to the peak of 2,704 feet.

It effectively separates Scottsdale and Paradise Valley from Phoenix, collectively known as “The Valley of the Sun.”

Hiking Camelback is a popular activity, with two trails that are both challenging: Echo is shorter but steeper (so steep that there are handrails in certain sections) while

Cholla is longer. Figure you’ll be out on the trail for two to three hours. If you choose to hike Camelback, take plenty of water and keep an eye on temperatures; each year the fire department rescues approximately 250 hikers on the mountain. Rescues are usually for heat-related illnesses in the hotter months. In the winter, hikers sometimes get caught in the dark when the sun sets earlier than expected.

A Prickly Pear Margarita hit just the right notes in the Sonoran Desert.

Part of the beauty of Scottsdale’s desert is the flora that is found here, some of which only grows in this Sonoran wilderness, such a the majestic saguaro. Many saguaros grow several arms that seem to reach up to the sky in almost human-like forms. I think of them as stalwart guards of the desert, with many standing at their posts for up to 200 years or even more. Saguaros are generally 50 to 75 years old before they grow their first arm. Other distinctive desert flora includes the ocotillo, which blooms with bright orange-crimson flowers in spring, and the palo verde, which can grow up to 25 feet in height. The Spanish translation for palo verde is “green stick” and indeed, this entire tree including its trunks, limbs and branches are a vibrant green. From afar, they appear lacy but, beware, close up their leaves are actually sharp and prickly. Palo verdes are among the most drought-tolerant of trees and can live up to 150 years.

Saguaros grow only in the Sonoran Desert.

Palos verde.

Fabulous Resorts

Scottsdale boasts many four and five diamond luxury resorts that are destinations unto themselves, with architecture and landscapes that meld with and celebrate the surrounding Sonoran desert. You’ll find that the spa experiences and culinary offerings at these resorts will tempt you to stay “on property” for your entire stay.

Do consider driving, not flying, over to Scottsdale. You’ll save a bundle on airfare, airport parking, Ubers and shuttles. Instead, bank that money for spa treatments, golf or other resort experiences! Driving over might also save you time when you consider the two hours you need to arrive before your flight, the flight itself, the transfer to your hotel – it adds up to about five hours, the same amount of time it takes to drive over. Plus. you won’t have to worry about flight delays or cancellations, and you’ll have your car at the ready.

The Phoenician, a Luxury Collection Resort

Photo by Kris Grant

On my latest trip to Scottsdale, I stayed at the AAA Five Diamond Phoenician, located just two miles from Old Town and all its restaurants and shopping. It was one of four resorts that hosted 31 writers on an early December press trip organized by Experience Scottsdale, the region’s Destination Marketing Organization.

I had last stayed at the Phoenician in 1994, when I was representing our city’s visitor bureau. My traveling companion was Toni Gaylord, who we all miss very much. Toni later became the city’s Main Street director, and captured the Great American Main Street Award in the year 2000. Toni and I were in Scottsdale to promote our city at a travel show. (Remember, this was way before the Internet and even cell phones, so travel shows were very popular!) Our work was fun but grueling – for each show we had to ship a large crate that we called “The Coffin.” In it was our Coronado booth that Toni and I assembled, peg by peg, to its ten-foot glory, and then arranged all our Coronado brochures on a front table. Then we’d stand (never sit!) for eight hours a day, chatting with thousands of Scottsdale and Phoenix residents who would be more than ready to visit our Coronado shores by the time June rolled around.

I remembered the Phoenician fondly, but it was really eye opening to discover how it had grown even better, a “Phoenician rising,” if you’ll pardon the pun. Here are some of the highlights:

In Spring 2007 following a $5.5 million renovation, The Canyon Suites debuted as Arizona’s only boutique resort within a resort. Today the Canyon Suites at the Phoenician is Scottsdale’s only Five Diamond, Five Star property.

In 2016, The Phoenician began a three-year $90 million transformation, the largest renovation since its 1988 opening. Following the redesign of its 585 guestrooms, all public areas were remodeled in 2017, including the pool complex, main lobby and retail corridor. In addition, the restaurant Il Terrazzo was redesigned to become the trendy, Mowry & Cotton. The J & G Steakhouse, a rooftop restaurant with panoramic Valley of the Sun views, debuted.

Camelback Mountain rises behind The Phoenician Resort and its multi-level pool complex.

Photo by Kris grant

I was impressed with the operation of the elevators in the four-story main building. Instead of pressing a button to call a car, I selected my floor from a screen displaying what’s on each floor. Then I was directed to board Car A. Once inside, there were no buttons to push; it was pre-programmed. It was jarring at first, but I quickly got used to the convenience.

I was struck by how the three-year renovation so intelligently incorporated the beauty and history of Scottsdale and Camelback Mountain into its design. The design firm of Parker-Torres consulted the Arizona Museum of Natural History to research the people who had inhabited the land – the Hohokum and Pima tribes, the Spanish Conquistadors, and later the ranchers – with a goal of instilling a character into the resort that had been missing in earlier years. Examples include bronze screens by the check-in area that were inspired by Pima basket designs and carpeting inspired by rattlesnake textures. The concierge desk’s custom leather art panel was inspired by the area’s topography and fabricated in cowhide, paying homage to Scottsdale’s cattle ranching heritage.

The Thirsty Camel at the Phoenician features panoramic views of the resort and the Valley of the Sun beyond. The venue features an exceptional selection of premium spirits and handcrafted cocktails as well as light fare.

The resort’s new three-story, 37,000 square foot spa – let me repeat that – 37,000 square feet! – features 24 treatment rooms, a couple’s suite, a 600-square foot tranquility suite and a variety of daily classes. There’s also a separate yoga room, a rooftop pool with eight private cabanas, healthy dining, a popular drybar for complete hairstyling services and a nail salon. At the spa’s 1,400 square-foot shop, you can handcraft your own aromatherapy oil.

The renovation also added a separate twostory fitness center.

A multi-tiered pool area includes an upper level for aquatic recreation a lowerlevel tranquil Mother-of-Pearl pool, and an adult only center pool. The upper level Kids Zone features a tree house with swaying bridge, a splash pad with shooting waterspouts and a 197-feet twisting water slide.

And in the category of bigger doesn’t necessarily mean better, the former 27-hole golf course was downsized. The new more cohesive 18-hole course was designed by golf course architect Phil Smith. It showcases the beauty of Arizona’s Sonoran Desert and has no surprise bunkers or blind hazards. Complementing the course is a new golf shop, locker rooms and 19th Hole dining venue.

Then there was my room, all 600 square feet of it, with a spacious balcony and marble bath that featured double sinks, a large shower and separate oversized oval tub. The spacious elegance, the signed artwork on the walls, the sumptuous Italianate bedding... It all was in a single word, luxurious.

The Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale at Troon North

A meditative Zen hike with yoga poses is part of ‘Desert Bathing’ at the Four Seasons Scottsdale.

Photo courtesy of Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale.

In the foothills of Pinnacle Peak, Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale is another AAA Five-Diamond property, set on 40 acres of vibrant desert blooms. It’s where we held round-robin meetings with representatives of Scottsdale’s attractions, and where I found time to wander the property and visit its 12,000-square-foot spa.

Four Seasons Scottsdale is where I would head if I were seeking a few days of utter tranquility. It’s about 30 minutes north of Scottsdale’s Old Town area.

Each week, there’ a rotating schedule of fitness and wellness offerings at the resort’s spa. One is called “Desert Bathing.”

“Many cultures have long recognized the importance of immersing oneself in the natural world as a benefit to human health,” explained Senior Spa Director Jaana Roth. “Desert Bathing invites our guests to spend more time in our natural setting, connect with the outdoors and experience a true sense of place.”

The experience begins with intention setting, along with a mindfulness and grounding exercise. Guests then embark on a meditative Zen Hike, where they are encouraged to stop, breathe and take in the beauty of nature. The hike incorporates intentional yoga poses along the way, allowing deeper connection to place and the natural desert beauty. The experience concludes at the spa with cooling, aromatherapy-scented towels and a brief re-centering exercise.

The experience is designed to help participants unplug from technology and slow down. It is thought to help promote more energy and better sleep, as well as provide mood-boosting effects for a more relaxed state of mind. “The key to Desert Bathing is to engage the five senses, letting nature enter the ears, eyes, nose, mouth, hands and feet,” Roth said. “Take the time to listen to the birds chirping, see the different varieties of cacti and native plants, and smell the rich scent of creosote bushes and desert sage. Taste the freshness of the air and feel the desert sand beneath underfoot.”

The spa also offers an extensive array of seasonal, indigenous and innovative skin and body treatments, scrubs, clay wraps, facials and massages. I’d like to try the Nopal Massage, with warm cactus gel applied using cactus paddles placed directly on the skin. The nopal cactus, more commonly known as the prickly pear cactus, is famous for offering health benefits due to its high antioxidant, vitamin, and mineral content. Guests can choose either a prickly pear or turquoise sage massage oil to be used during the treatment.

The Tranquility Room provides a restful space for guests as they await spa treatments at Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale.

Photo by Kris Grant.

There’s lots more experiences at the Four Seasons. For example, I noticed a sign in the lobby that stargazing sessions with a local astronomer would be offered later that night. The resort also has a partnership with REI, offering seasonal adventure programming, among them Stand-up Paddle boarding at Lake Saguaro, and a Pedal-to-Peak experience with easy e-biking and hiking the Tom Thumb trail in the McDowell Mountains.

What I particularly like about the Four Seasons is that its accommodations are laid out in one-and-two story adobe-style buildings with meandering pathways bordered by natural flora throughout the property. It’s where I encountered a roadrunner that didn’t seem at all bothered by my presence as he pecked away at the ground, seeking an insect or two. I later learned that it’s good luck to run into a roadrunner and that they rarely fly but can definitely run. It was a good omen.

Beep beep! A frisky and friendly roadrunner ran across my path at Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale.

Photo by Kris Grant.

The Scott Resort & Spa

The Canal Club at The Scott will transport you to 1930s’ Havana with Cuban-inspired handcrafted cocktails and delicious cuisine that can be enjoyed indoors or out.

Photo by Kris Grant.

For a bit of luxury at a lower price point close to the Old Town heart of Scottsdale, The Scott is a good choice. At our opening reception held here, overlooking its lagoon pool, I sampled several Caribbean-inspired appetizers and cocktails that are also offered at the Scott’s signature restaurant, The Canal Club. One was its Seasonal Squash Salad featuring goat cheese, roasted butternut squash, a dusting of pistachio and a pomegranate vinaigrette. I happily juggled that tasty dish with a Sin and Santeria cocktail of citrus vodka, strawberry, lemon, a minty Jelinek Fernet liqueur and basil. The tastes melded well for a spirited welcoming libation.

In addition to the lagoon pool with private cabana, the resort also features a pool with a sand bottom, perfect for families.

In keeping with its Cuban theme, the Scott’s La Vidorra Spa features six treatment rooms. I think if I were to order a spa treatment here, it would be the Havana Herbal Salt Stone Massage. I love a hot stone massage, and this massage incorporates the warm salt stones with a Cuban-inspired aromatherapy oil.

Sanctuary Camelback Mountain

Photo courtesy of Sanctuary Camelback Mountain.

Located on the backside of Camelback Mountain, the Sanctuary is high on my list of future resort stays, particularly because of its emphasis on wellness, and the fact that all of its accommodations are free-standing casitas, suites or private villas.

But there are two more reasons I must visit the Sanctuary. I want to sample Chef de Cuisine Samantha Sanz’s Mexican-inspired cuisine at Element. While with the Four Seasons Scottsdale, Sanz was named a Rising Star by the James Beard Foundation. And then there is Sanctuary’s bar chief, Christiann Rollich, a celebrity mixologist. He was the stunt double for Brad Pitt in Oceans 11. Say no more; I’m on my way!

Venturing out to Old Town

Monica and Kirk Nicodemus, our JoyRidesAZ hosts, took a break to ride high inside the Scottsdale Rodeo Museum.

Photos by Kris Grant

As tempting as it might be to never leave your resort, you simply must! Plan at least one day to visit Old Town. We met our tour guides, husband and wife team Kirk and Monica Nicodemus of JoyRides AZ at the Scottsdale Waterfront, to tour Old Town in a little under three hours, via a combination of golf cart rides and walking.

You know you’ve arrived in Old Town, when you encounter a statue of a cowboy on a bucking bronco in the center of Main Street and on one corner a colorful sign of a cowboy twirling a rope, with the message “Welcome to Historic Old Town Scottsdale.”

Photo by Kris Grant

At the Scottsdale Rodeo Museum, I learned that both the sign and the sculpture pay homage to Gerbacio (“Harvey”) Noriega, a descendent of one of the 25 first families to Scottsdale.

On Main Street, you’ll find the street lined with 40 art galleries, many featuring art of the Southwest, that hold Open Houses on Thursday nights, often with artists in residence.

There are countless restaurants in Old Town and our group sampled several, which I can heartily recommend, among them Hulu’s Tiki, Piccolo Virtu and Sel.

Our guides pointed out the Rusty Spur Saloon, which years ago was a bank, but the bank vault now holds liquor. The small bar plays country music nightly and you never know when a country star will show up unannounced. It’s a rollicking place.

Hula’s Modern Tiki brings innovative island fare and a new twist to Scottsdale’s Old Town.

Our final stop on the Old Town tour was at Western Spirit: Scottsdale’s Museum of the West. It is currently hosting a fascinating exhibit, Light and Legacy: The Art and Techniques of Edward S. Curtis. For three decades, backed by the public blessing of President Theodore Roosevelt and with financial backing from financier J. Pierpont Morgan, Curtis traveled the entire length and breadth of the American West, Western Canada and Alaska. He took thousands of photographs on glass plates. Curtis’s project became 20 volumes of The North American Indian. Hurry, the exhibit ends on April 30!

Edward S. Curtis compiled the most extensive photographic record of the American West ever undertaken.

Chief Red Cloud, leader of the Oglala Lakota, portrait by Edward Curtis, 1905.

Super Season Events!

Scottsdale Western Week and Arizona Indian Festival

Jan. 28 – Feb. 5

During Western Week, Old Town Scottsdale transforms into an authentic old-west experience. Events include historic parades, Native American festivals, spirited art walks, the Hashknife Pony Express ride and cultural exhibits at Scottsdale’s Museum of the West and the Old Town Scottsdale Rodeo Museum.

Held in conjunction with Scottsdale’s Western Week, the Arizona Indian Festival (Feb. 4 and 5) provides a platform for tribal tourism and awareness of Arizona’s indigenous communities. Most of Arizona’s 22 tribes attend the festival, sharing traditional foods, arts, crafts, dancing and singing. Visitors may buy directly from Native American artisans. Food vendors sell such traditional treats as frybread, but also all-American kettle corn and hamburgers. Admission is free.

Old Town Scottsdale

Scottsdale Civic Center

3939 North Drinkwater Blvd. www.arizonaindiantourism.org www.scottsdalewesternweek.com

Barrett-Jackson Collector Car Auto Auction

Named America’s No.1 attraction for car lovers in the 2019 USA Today Readers’ Choice contest, the Barrett-Jackson auction is widely regarded as a barometer of the collector car industry. The auctions have evolved over its 50 years into world-class automotive lifestyle events where thousands of the world’s most sought-after, unique and valuable automobiles cross the block in front of a global audience ‒ in-person and on live national and international television.

Guests may also immerse themselves in a variety of other experiences, including luxury shopping within the Exhibitor Marketplace, learning from industry leaders during the “Behind the Hobby” Collector Car symposiums. The auction features food trucks, craft beers, cocktails, outdoor fire pits, thrill rides, and a live music stage. Admission begins at $25; $21 for seniors, military and first responders.

WestWorld of Scottsdale

16601 North Pima Road, Scottsdale www.barrett-jackson.com

WM Phoenix Open

Feb. 6 – 12

Known as “The Greatest Show on Grass,” the WM Phoenix Open is one of the PGA Tour’s most exciting stops. The event has gained legendary status for combining great golf, great weather, and a festive atmosphere, unlike any other tournament. It features the largest onsite attendance of any golf tournament in the world, with a record 719,179 attendees (pre-covid). It’s made possible by the unique construction of the TPC Scottsdale’s Stadium Course.

The tournament has become infamous for its large and rowdy crowds. By far the most popular hole for spectators is the 16th hole. The par-3 hole also is one of the easiest shots. The site of several holes-in-one, spectators cheer on those who do well here. Those who perform badly are loudly booed; objects have known to be thrown. It’s a totally raucous environment, quite in contrast to most PGA events, and probably the most fun event on the PGA circuit.

TPC Scottsdale, 17020 North Hayden Road www.wmphoenixopen.com

Scottsdale Arabian Horse Show

Feb. 16 – 26

The annual Scottsdale Arabian Horse Show is known as the largest Arabian horse show in the world. After the show’s beginnings in 1955 at the Arizona Biltmore, Arabian horse owner and show co-founder Ann McCormick bought 150 acres in Scottsdale and made it into the horse facility known as Paradise Park that served the needs of the show for many years. Since 1989, the show has been held at Westworld in Scottsdale.

It has grown from 50 horses to nearly 2,400 horses bringing top owners, trainers and breeders from around the world competing for a chance at winning. Approximately 1,200 classes for youth, amateur, and professional exhibitors put the athleticism of this breed on full display. Six show rings run throughout the 11-days, showcasing a wide variety of classes from Western and hunter pleasure, driving, jumping, dressage, ranch riding and more.

Westworld

16601 N Pima Road, Scottsdale www.scottsdaleshow.com

Major League Baseball Spring Training

Feb. 25 – March 28

Spring Training baseball under the warm Arizona sun has been a tradition for devoted fans since 1947. Of the Cactus League’s 10 stadiums, Scottsdale is home to the San Francisco Giants, who play at Scottsdale Stadium, and the Colorado Rockies and Arizona Diamondbacks, who both play at nearby Salt River Fields. The San Diego Padres play at Peoria, Arizona, about 23 miles west of Scottsdale.

I attended a couple of Cactus League games back in 2014, watching the Padres play at Peoria and at Salt River Fields. You’re much closer to the action here, and the players often visit with the fans.

www.cactusleague.com

If You Go...

Visitor Information

Experience Scottsdale

The city’s destination marketing bureau has a complete list of resorts and hotels, activities, itineraries, special events and more. www.experiencescottsdale.com

Courtesy of Hotel Valley Ho

Resorts

Here’s a starter list. Find more at www.experiencescottsdale.com

Adero Scottsdale Resort www.AderoScottsdale.com

The Boulders Resort & Spa Scottsdale www.theboulders.com

Camelback Inn Resort & Spa www.marriott.com

Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale at Troon North www.fourseasons.com/scottsdale

Hotel Valley Ho www.HotelValleyHo.com

The Phoenician www.thephoenician.com

Royal Palms Resort & Spa, Unbound Collection by Hyatt www.hyatt.com

Sanctuary Camelback Mountain, A Gurney’s Resort & Spa www.gurneysresorts.com

The Scott Resort & Spa www.thescottresort.com

Senna House, Curio Collection by Hilton www.thesennahouse,com

W Scottsdale www.marriott.com

Dine & Drink

Arizona Stronghold Vineyards

Family-owned and the largest winery in Arizona, the vineyard prides itself on being pioneers and farmers first. Tasting rooms are in Old Town and Cottonwood. www.azstronghold.com

Hula’s Modern Tiki www.HulasModernTiki.com

Huss Brewing www.HussBrewing.com

Piccolo Virtu www.piccolovirtu.com

Sel www.selrestaurant.com

Sugar Bowl Ice Cream Parlor & Restaurant www.sugarbowlscottsdale.com

The Rusty Spur www.rustyspursaloon.com

Museums & Gardens

Desert Botanical Gardens www.dbg.org

Scottsdale Rodeo Museum

www.scottsdalerodeomuseum.com

Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art

12 rotating exhibitions a year of contemporary art, architecture and design. www.smoca.org

Taliesen West www.franklloydwright.org

Western Spirit: Scottsdale’s Museum of the West

www.scottsdalemuseumwest.org

Courtesy of Rainbow Ryders

Arizona Boardwalk

An entertainment destination with eight marquee attractions including OdySea Aquarium and Butterfly Wonderland. www.arizonaboardwalk.com

Cloth & Frame

The company produces hundreds of customized events, such as wedding receptions, in unconventional spaces, including the Arizona desert. www.clothandframe.coom

Desert Dog Offroad Adventures www.azadventures.com

JoyRidesAZ

Sharing Downtown Scottsdale’s hidden gems via golf cart and walking tours yearround.

www.joyridesaz.com

MacDonald’s Ranch Scottsdale’s premier horseback riding and Western adventure operation. www.macdonaldranch.com

McDowell Sonoran Preserve www.mcdoowellsonoran.org

Rainbow Ryders, Hot Air Balloon Ride Company www.rainbowryders.com

REI Co-op Experience

www.destinations.rei.com/arizona