I AM the Nikon 1 AW1 - Capture every moment with the world’s first waterproof, shockproof and freeze proof interchangeable lens system*. Featuring a 14.2-megapixel CX-format CMOS sensor, ISO range of 160- 6400, Advanced Hybrid Autofocus System and the EXPEED 3A image-processing engine, you will never miss a precious moment again. nikon.co.nz *Among digital cameras with interchangeable lenses available as of September 19, 2013. Statement based on Nikon research.
DPS VOYAGER
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A timeless experience...
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timeless experience awaits guests of the Iconic Santorini, a unique boutique cave hotel located in the picturesque Greek island village of Imerovigli. Situated on a spectacular hillside setting and literally carved from Santorini’s volcanic caldera wall, this tranquil retreat offers breathtaking views of the azure waters below from each of the five hotel levels. Every room and suite is distinct and all provide personal veranda seating high above the majestic wonders of this ancient volcanic island rising from the Aegean Sea below. First class service and luxury amenities combine with unparalleled serenity and magnificent views to create a truly unforgettable experience. iconicsantorini.com
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CONTENTS Happening 18.
Travel bites from around the world
International 22.
World Expeditions Turning dreams into realities
28.
The street spirit of Cuba Thai Neave steps into the shadows
28
SHADOW BOXING IN CUBA
40.
48.
The Jordan of T.E. Lawrence Glenn A. Baker’s unfolding theatre An Awakening in Arizona Brian Furbush peers through the lens
56. The Vikings’ secret paradise
64.
Andrew Allen explores Iceland
A world of efficiency Rowena Bahl’s Tokyo timeout
Cuisine Culture
22
WORLD EXPEDITIONS TURNING DREAMS INTO REALITIES
70. How the tables have turned
Michael Hooper on the menu of life
74. A culinary adventure All the fun of the fare
76.
87.
Northern New Zealand Sampling Auckland, Hawke’s Bay & Wellington Southern New Zealand Dining out on Christchurch’s recovery
96. Australia
Four states of cuisine
48
102. United States ARIZONA Awakening
The world’s cuisine in New York & Chicago
CONTENTS 114. South America
The distinctive taste of Peru
116. Europe
The dramatic dishes of Greece
118. Asia
Bali, Japan & China
South Pacific Feasting 124. Cook Island creativity A cuisine on the rise
106
130. Sampling Samoa
Heaven from the earth
ELEVEN MADISON New YORK, USA
134. Vanuatu on a plate
A gourmet adventure in the South Pacific
138. Niue’s dining delights
Nature’s freshest gifts
Cocktail Quest 140. Mixology magic
118
Green T. House BEIJINg, China
116
FUNKY GOURMET GREECE, EUROPE
140
For him & her
Summer by the sea 150. Ferries for fun
A voyage to nirvana
COCKTAIL QUEST NEW ZEALAND
A global reputation for creating automotive art
J AG UA R
|
B E N T L E Y
1424 MARAEKAKAHO ROAD, HAWKES BAY (06) 878 2997 | 027 449 9860 alex@beacham-jaguar.co.nz
|
R O L L S
R OYC E
|
A S TO N
BEACHAM.CO.NZ
MA R T I N
930 GREAT SOUTH ROAD, PENROSE (09) 526 5421 | 027 816 8004 warren@beacham-jaguar.co.nz
OUR WORD Awakening to nature’s beauty We have come a long way as humans. From periods where we were so occupied by survival we hardly had time to think about how pretty the piece of fish was that we were about to devour, to our technological advancements and intrigue with that era of “fast food”, which we started to notice was not very good for us, as our waist lines grew. Our world moved faster and our bodies grew slower and then we did that predictable thing we do all the time - just like fashion, we recycled. The difference, however, is that each time a cycle touches its tail, we reach a new era. We are now in a period where our years of mis-use and mass consumption are catching up with us and we are tracking through the forests of our past and learning again about the earth that was once a lot closer to our hearts. Over years our notions on beauty have also developed as we learn that the land and the water is where the beauty always lay. Rowena Bahl Editor
PUBLISHER Bruce Laybourn bruce@destinationsmagazine.com EDITOR Rowena Bahl rowena@destinationsmagazine.com DESIGNER Jessie Yeung jessie@destinationsmagazine.com SUB-EDITOR Mark Barratt-Boyes mark@destinationsmagazine.com EDITOR AT LARGE Glenn A. Baker CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Michael Hooper EDITORIAL Hermine Banks - Writer Andrew Allen - Writer Kathy Cunningham - Writer Brian Furbush - Writer/Photographer Thai Neave - Writer/Photographer Aleksandra Winters - Artist Bill Winters - Photographer Tanveer Badal - Photographer Alfie Goodrich - Photographer Geoff Steven - Photographer Paulus Romjin - Video director Nadeesha Godammune - Illustrator Williams Photography Anne Liu - makeup Cocktail Quest
ADVERTISING Kerry Cattrall kerry@destinationsmagazine.com Cola Larcombe cola@destinationsmagazine.com DISTRIBUTION International - Newspaper Direct 33,000 online subscribers. World Expeditions - 10,000 online Australia & New Zealand - Airport Lounges, Direct Post to Key Business, Bulk Contract Delivery, Retail direct delivery to key bookshops.
DESTINATIONS MEDIA Destinations publishes four times each year. The
contents
are
copyright
and
cannot be reproduced without the written consent of the Publisher. Most articles are commissioned but quality contributions may be considered. Destination’s acceptance of all contributed material – words, images and illustrations – is on the basis that these will be used internationally in all forms of the magazine’s distribution and marketing, be that print, digital or social networking.
Subscriptions magzter.com (launches mid December 2013) iSubscribe.co.nz subs@destinationsmagazine.com
All articles, images and illustrations
PRINT MHP Group
accepted on this basis only.
ON THE COVER A creation for Arizona by Aleksandra Winters “Raw Tacos Stuffed With Raw Zucchini Salad” - see page 54. Photography by Bill Winters. Aleksandra and Bill, creative duo, collaborated on this amazing cover and all destination-inspired dishes in the international section of the magazine.
Fax +64 9 360-4097
submitted will remain open for reading, reference, retrieval without time limit through all forms of distribution, be that print, digital or social media. All material is
Tel +64 9 360-4096
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Email: mail@destinationsmagazine.com Web: http://destinationsmedia.com Online edition: newspaperdirect.com/ epaper/viewer.aspx Destinations will also be availble in the Apple store mid December, 2013. Keep in the loop on our facebook page. facebook.com/destinationsmedia
que Voyage My Magnifi
f Th e C h e
isin e Th e Cu
Th e Restau rant
Experience Lava Dining. Executive Chef Scott Brown delivers flavour and flair with an innovative menu, tastefully blending the best local produce with a refined French touch. Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days, Lava Dining offers a contemporary dining experience and breathtaking views.
www.sofitel.com
FoLLow us on
TALK TRAVEL
What's our destination dish? We asked our fellow travel troopers about their favourite destination dish and drink.
Bill Winters
Andrew Allen
Glenn A Baker
- The Visual Composer
- The Impulsive Expedition Man
- The Poet
What is your ultimate
What is your ultimate
What is your ultimate
What is your ultimate
food destination?
food destination?
food destination?
Oh man, that is a tough one. I love
My favourite destination for just
food. Ultimate food destination has
about anything is Cinque Terre
to be Italy. The entire country is based
in Italy, and I would be enjoying
on food. Everything is delicious. I
fresh risotto and limoncello.
guess I like the pizza as well as the
Mmm.
If you’d like a different answer to last
food destination? In Europe it pays to flee south of the Scandinavian horror of pickled herring roll mops. By the time you cross the Italian border you’re pretty much safe. They rarely get it wrong. Africa rarely gets it right, but South America rewards venturers, particularly Argentina, where vegetarianism may well be a capital
time, I would have to say Amman
offence.
Mexico is guacamole and blue corn
spaghetti and meatballs. When I am there I drink whatever red wine they recommend, often a chianti or a valpolicella. France is up there, too. The brunch at the Intercontinental Hotel is a killer. Can’t beat the croissants. France is an amazing food country.
Favourite destination dish and drink? Two random dishes I would hop on
Favourite destination dish and drink?
in Jordan, where I had the most delicious lamb of my life, followed by an amazing lemon mint drink.
- The ARTIST
Favourite destination dish and drink? Not sure if it’s still there but there was this tin shed near Kuala Lumpur Airport where you could sit at long benches and tuck into chilly prawns of almost obscene length while
a plane for are Bialy Borscht (aka
landing aircraft drowned out the
Zurek) in Poland, as well as Zywiec
trundling ceiling fans. They were
Beer. Yum. Also, the sushi next to
almost as delectable as the steaming
the Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo is
garlic crabs under tents down by the
the best in the world. I drank sake
Saigon River in Ho Chi Minh City in
there, I don’t know what kind, but
Vietnam. The Los Nazarenas steak
it was amazing.
house in Buenos Aires has a hold
The most unique food destination
on me and I wish I’d noted down
I have been to was China. I ate grasshopper fajitas, bumblebee on a stick, and bird’s nest, which was really expensive. I passed on the snakes and dog face and ran for cover from the kitten soup.
Aleksandra Winters
that place in Mumbai that has an unrivalled recipe for mango lassi. Oh and, on the subject of fiery prawns, Uncle Lim’s up a mountain walk at the Pankor Laut Records in Malaysia gave the KL shed a run for its money, though it required somewhat more – money, that is. Sate sticks sold by street vendors in Bangkok, like Turkish street kebabs, are hard to resist.
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My ultimate food destination is Mexico. They have so many varieties of fresh fruit and vegetables that can be made into amazing salads and juices.
Favourite destination dish and drink? My favourite destination dish in tortilla chips. I eat this for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Of course the guacamole and chips must be enjoyed with a frozen margarita, my favourite drink.
No 1 Family Estate
Marlborough Methode Traditionelle
ADÈLE
CUVÉE
TALK TRAVEL
What's our destination dish? We asked our fellow travel troopers about their favourite destination dish and drink.
Hermine Banks
Thai Neave
Michael Hooper
Brian Furbush
- The Conversationalist
- The THOUGHT PROVOKER
- THE Cuisine Connoisseur
- The Observer
What is your ultimate
What is your ultimate food
What is your ultimate food
What is your ultimate food
food destination?
destination?
destination?
destination?
Spain. The Spanish have a penchant
I have been staring at my screen
Auckland, because the influx of
My dream food destination is
for turning meal times into a session
the last 30 minutes trying to answer
Asian people especially has added
Marrakech, Morocco, to visit Jamâa
of sharing, socialising and drinking.
this seemingly simple question be-
great richness and variety to
El F’na and sample the wealth of
Who wouldn’t want to be a part
cause I love eating everywhere in
our food. We have some of the
delicacies from the food vendors
of that?
the world (except ironically Cuba). It
most heartfelt Japanese (Cocoro,
in the square. If I had only one
comes down to Mexico Vs Thailand
Kazuya, Soto), subtle French/Kiwi
restaurant I could try, it would
Vs Italy Vs New York.
amalgam (Vinnies, French Cafe),
be Sukiyabashi Jiro in Tokyo, after
unpretentious fine dining (No 5
watching Jiro Dreams of Sushi -
Favourite destination dish and drink? Tapas in Alicante and Granada,
Favourite destination dish
and The Grove) and numerous
the man behind the craft is a living
seafood at Arzak (Spain’s first
and drink?
funky food outlets. Why would you
legend who is completely dedicated
Michelin three-star restaurant)
I had a steak in Argentina that
go anywhere else?
to his art.
in San Sebastian and Zarzuela
I’m still drooling over a decade
(Spain’s signature fish stew) in
later. I’ll wash it down with a
Favourite destination dish
Favourite destination dish
Barcelona, all washed down
Cococado from Melvin’s Juice Box
and drink?
and drink?
with some Basque wine or cold
in SoHo, New York.
Favourite destination dish and
My favourite destination dish is the
drink: Baduzzi’s tripe lasangette
incredible carbonara pasta at Piazza
with orange crumb is a stunner. A
Margherita in Genzano di Roma,
glass of bubbles at The Sugar Club
Italy - I would fly back just for that
at sunset is hard to beat.
one meal. My favourite drink would
sangria. I’m salivating already.
be any sundowner at Richard’s Place in Providencia, Colombia, a bare bones beach shack perched on the edge of South West Bay. Let Richard make you a potent cocktail of his choice with fresh local fruit and you won’t regret it.
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HAPPENING EICHARDT’S VOTED WORLD’S BEST SKI RESORT HOTEL Queenstown’s international reputation for skiing received a boost when Eichardt’s Private Hotel was voted world’s best ski resort hotel at the 2013 World Luxury Hotel Awards. The hotel’s owner, Andrew Cox, said it was “a huge honour” to receive the award. “Queenstown has evolved into one of the best ski resorts in the world. The award is not only superb recognition for Eichardt’s, but also fantastic news for Queenstown and New Zealand tourism,” Cox said. The director of the awards, Marinique de Wet, said excellent service was the most critical factor in a hotel’s measure as a luxury hotel. “Ultimately the awards should enhance performance levels across the board,” Ms Wet said International tour operators, travel agents and hotel guests were all eligible to vote. Eichardt’s has been named one of the top eight “forever fabulous hotels in the world“ by Tatler Magazine, and one of the “Top 10 bars with a view” by the Times of London.
CHILE’S NATIONAL PARK VOTED 8th wonder of the world
AFRICA NEEDS 1000 PLANES
The attraction of the rugged peaks of Torres del Paine National Park in Chile has international appeal, with the travellers’ website VirtualTourist declaring it to be their Eighth Wonder of the World after a poll by five million worldwide voters. Earlier this year, VirtualTourist asked visitors to nominate their eighth wonder. Torres del Paine, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve known for its lakes, glaciers, waterfalls and granite peaks towering up
Airbus says Africa will need 970 new passenger aircraft by 2032, with a value of U$126 billion, according to its latest global market forecast. This estimate includes 729 single-aisle aircraft, 213 twin-aisle aircraft and 28 very large aircraft. Airbus says Africa will achieve average annual passenger growth of 5.7 percent in future, compared with a world average of 4.7 percent.
to 2884 metres above sea level, was chosen from more than 300 entries around the world. “We always believed Torres del Paine had the natural qualities to win, due to its exceptional beauty and breath-taking landscapes,” said Chile’s secretary of tourism, Daniel Pardo. In 2012 the park received 15 percent more visitors than previous years, with more than 139,000 trekkers.
SPAIN OR THE CARIBBEAN - perhaps omarama is a safer bet When Lamenda Kingdon booked a trip from Gatwick Airport in London to the Spanish city of Granada, on a BA flight, she discovered on the plane that her flight was in fact heading for the Caribbean island of Grenada on the
other side of the Atlantic Ocean. Granada is a two-hour flight from London, but Grenada takes about 10 hours. The sympathetic BA flight crew ushered Kingdon into first class, and organised a
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flight home. BA staff at Gatwick arranged a hotel and contributed enough bonus points for Kingdon to book her next dream trip – Christmas at Omarama in the South Island of New Zealand.
DESIGNING DISHES FOR ‘CUISINE CULTURE’ CIRCUMNAVIGATION
leksandra Winters has prepared the range of dishes for this “Cuisine Culture” edition of Destinations to accompany our culinary voyage around the world. New York-based Aleksandra designed each dish through her artistic interpretation of the destinations. She describes her food as “simple, plant-based and nutritious.” Aleksandra uses vegan and raw food and is inspired by the colours and shapes of nature, her travels, art and her love of cooking. “I use pure, organic, healthy, unprocessed ingredients and prepare my meals with minimal intervention, to create unconventional flavours and food recipes. “I am a professional multimedia artist and an art teacher who loves delicious taste of fresh homemade meals and great presentation.” Aleksandra’s culinary masterpieces were photographed by her husband Bill Winters, an award-winning director of photography and cinematography. For recipes and creative ideas visit olenkoskitchen.com
THE GIRL WITH THE SUPER-PENCIL POWERS
A self portrait of Nadeesha. nadeesha-godamunne.com
adeesha Godamunne is the talented young lady behind the human evolution illustration for the opening story of “Cuisine Culture” (see p70). Originally from New Zealand but now based in New York, Nadeesha is collaborating with editors and fashion houses to create not only illustrations, but hand drawn textile prints for the apparel market. Her latest clients and projects have included working with Calvin Klein, and Ralph Lauren.
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25 individually designed rooms in the heart of Auckland’s fashion & business district - Rated No1 hotel in Australasia on Expedia Insider’s Select List 2013.
High St Auckland hoteldebrett.com
HAPPENING Global travel winners ‘coming home’ The American winners of a worldwide travel contest are “coming home” to New Zealand to reunite with their Kiwi family. Alex and Marko Ayling from San Diego, who won MyDestination.com’s “Biggest, Baddest, Bucket List” competition, are spending six months travelling to 25 destinations around the world on an all-expenses-paid trip, based on their own wish list. They will earn US$50,000 for their
sector will start in Queenstown on December 13 and includes Wellington, Auckland and Rotorua, where they complete their journey on December 24. They have lined up bungy jumping, sailing an America’s Cup boat and a Maori hangi and cultural show. “We’re also looking forward to meeting the locals.” The brothers will be showcasing New Zealand to the world via social media,
efforts. Their father, Robert Ayling, was a law student before travelling the world, where he met Jill, a Californian stewardess, on a train in Switzerland. They have lived in California since 1980. Ayling has been honorary consul of New Zealand in San Diego since 1995. The brothers’ 12-day New Zealand
including blogs and videos. Mike Watt, the New Zealand managing director of MyDestination, says the site taps into local knowledge to highlight quirky places and activities. “I can’t wait to see what the boys come up with.” Marko and Alex beat off competition from 640 destinations and more than 110 countries.
Boeing 737 - up to 47 a month for this best seller At almost every international airport, ranks of Boeing 737s will be lined up waiting to take passengers on short or medium-haul flights. It is the best-selling aircraft in history and demand continues to rise. Boeing is to increase production from the current 38 planes per month to 47 planes per month in 2017, or more than 560 per year, the highest ever. “We’re taking this step to make sure
our aeroplanes get into the hands of our customers when they need them,” said Beverly Wyse, vice president and general manager, 737 Programme, Boeing Commercial Airplanes. “This increase will lay a solid foundation as we bridge into production on the 737 MAX.” First deliveries of the 737 MAX are on track for the third quarter of 2017, 50 years after the plane first flew.
Nudist beach plan runs foul of locals Protests have greeted the proposal by a South Korean province for the country’s first nudist beach in an attempt to boost tourism. A government department in the eastern province of Gangwon initiated the idea. The proposal envisages opening a nudist area by 2017 to attract more foreign visitors to a province known for its sandy beaches. “We see this project as part of our
efforts to promote tourism,” an official said. Despite its rapid modernisation, South Korea remains a largely conservative country and the official said the plan would need the approval of local residents. “Without their consent, it will be difficult to push ahead,” she said. “In fact, we’ve already received protest calls from some residents”. The idea of a nudist beach was earlier suggested in 2005 but was rejected.
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Marko, Jill, Alex and Robert Ayling.
London lures affluent Chinese shoppers Luxury retailers in London are hoping to cash in on the growing numbers of wealthy Chinese travellers in the wake of relaxed visa application rules announced in October. Representatives from the London Luxury Quarter, a collection of 42 streets in Mayfair, Piccadilly and St James where some of the world’s top luxury retailers have showrooms, flew to China recently to court affluent Chinese travellers. As part of the campaign, 20 brands, including Cartier, Ralph Lauren and Giorgio Armani, will open their private museums, design rooms, vaults and archives to the wealthiest shoppers for the first time. Options will include a tour of the Floris Museum, a viewing of the Ritz Jewellery Collection, or being fitted with a bespoke pair of shoes from Foster & Son. Chinese tourists spent a total of $102 billion globally last year according to United Nations World Tourism Organization.
The Lakes Resort International Championship Golf course offers 18 holes of world-class golf. This unique course blends perfectly with a surrounding ecology that includes bellbirds and tuis. he course, nestled in a unique valley setting, meanders its way through picturesque natural wetlands and lakes. The Lakes Restaurant Cafe and Bar overlooks the 18th green at the Lakes Resort, Pauanui, on the Coromandel Peninsula, one of New Zealand’s leading International championship golf courses. The resort promises some of the finest, innovative cuisine on the Coromandel Peninsula, complemented by the sweeping views across tranquil lakes and manicured fairways.
Lakes Restaurant, Café & Bar was architecturally designed to take full advantage of the natural surroundings while providing a warm, casual atmosphere in which to relax at the end of a great day’s golf. The restaurant is open for all to call in for a coffee, glass of wine, lunch or dinner. Guests can dine alfresco on the patio or choose indoors where they can enjoy the ambience and warm glow from the fire, matched with a glass of wine from the extensive cellar. The restaurant and The Gallery offer spacious dining for up to 120 guests and can be booked exclusively for special occasions.
Lake Resort is a superb wedding venue – the perfect location for an indoor-outdoor occasion, just five minutes drive from Pauanui beach. The resort has an experienced wedding planner to take care of the details and assist with florists, marriage celebrants, music, hair and makeup artists. Lakes Resort is also a relaxing alternative for business conferences, the Heron Room being able to seat up to 70 theatre style. The conference can be combined with a leisurely round of golf followed by an evening at the restaurant. www.lakesresort.com
100 Augusta Dr, Pauanui 3579, New Zealand Phone: +64 7-864 9999 www.lakesresort.com
Turning dreams into
realities World Expeditions And Destinations Invites Readers To Taste An Exclusive Menu Of Travel BY KATHY CUNNINGHAM
ost travellers secretly harbour a list of special places they would like to experience in their lifetime, mixing lofty and simple goals into a “one of these days” agenda. World Expeditions prides itself on responsible tourism, unique destinations and taking people on “paths less travelled”, and has partnered with Destinations to turn at least some of these dreams into realities, to inspire and guide, and show the best time to travel is “now”, not “one of these days”. Destinations’ photographers and editors will host a series of niche World Expeditions tours that cater to different types of travellers. Perhaps our traveller is a “photo phantom”, an enthusiastic
photographer who sees the beauty of the world through their lens. Perhaps we have adventure addicts who crave their next hit of adrenalin, spiritual seekers who would like to embrace body, mind and soul through their travels, or taste trekkers who trot around the globe with their taste buds. Whatever it is we seek, these special tours will help make it happen in a small group of people who share our values. Travellers’ goals may range from climbing Mount Kilimanjaro to planting a vegetable garden, from learning to cook Thai dishes in Phuket to volunteering at the local library. Whatever destinations and “to do’s” are on the list, consider the following scenario. Natalie Tambolash, the manager for World Expeditions, the active travel
– 22 –
company that specialises in interesting itineraries to more than 800 different locations on every continent, asked me where I would like to go. “Really,” I exclaimed with quiet trepidation, since she was preparing to depart for the Base Camp at Mount Everest. I was nervous that since my colleague Kerren was to climb the foothills of Mont Blanc, I would be sent on a mountaineering expedition far, far away. “Yes, really, and I want your top five destinations upon my return.” Until then I hadn’t realised how hard it is to capture the top five destinations across the entire world that I want to travel to? It is too difficult, so I noted seven Peru, Portugal, Petra, Cuba, Croatia and Cambodia as well as The Grand Canyon.
Destinations’ photographers and editors will host a series of niche World Expeditions tours that cater to different types of travellers.
I’m not sure why I have so many Ps and Cs listed, but this is my first attempt at trying to describe where in the world I would like to travel with World Expeditions. Natalie returns to share her idea about where I will go. “Mount Kinabalu in Borneo!” she exclaims. That was definitely not on my list, but since everyone in the office is climbing, I had some research to do. World Expeditions is a respected expert in active travel and organises a myriad of different types of active holiday adventures, including walking from chateau to chateau in Bordeaux, cycling along the canals of the River Danube, trekking the Himalayas, sailing the Baltic, kayaking in Antarctica and walking the steps up the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. Perhaps others have a secret desire
to walk the Compostela Trail in northern Spain, hike the Great Wall of China, camp under the stars on the Larapinta in central Australia, or enjoy a night in a castle sipping a beverage or two in Portugal. Although World Expeditions was founded in Sydney in 1975 by organising treks to Nepal, it’s not just about climbing and hiking. The company has grown since then to have offices around the world. Along the way, it has learned a lot about responsible travel and helping the communities it visits with community projects and the Sherpa protection programme. Charity travel and specialised cycle tours and school groups are also part of World Expeditions’ mix. World Expeditions and Destinations magazine have formed a partnership to
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offer a special and exclusive menu of travel, including: Snapping It Up in the Sub-Continent - a photographic exploration through India and Sri Lanka, An Ancient Awakening - immersing our spirits in Cambodia, Florals of France - following food and wine in France, and Where the Wild Things Are - letting the adrenalin rush. All are designed to be fun, with expert guides. On the following pages are details of the next tours on offer and an introduction to the hosts. The tours can be booked directly through the link provided under each destination. We encourage our readers to register expressions of interest early, as spaces are limited. Email enquiries@worldexpeditions.co.nz Visit: worldexpedtions.co.nz Phone: 0800 350 354
Snap it up in the sub-continent with BRIAN FURBUSH
Take your lens to two stunning parts of the world with one of Destinations’ favourite international travel photographers Brian Furbush. This remarkable journey encompassing two exciting destinations highlights how trade, imperial conquests, religious and cultural interaction have all played their part in these mystic lands where the ancient and contemporary exist side by side. Our journey begins in India’s tropical
south where Cochin is a jewel in the crown of Kerala with its European heritage and true cosmopolitan temperament. Enjoy meandering upriver on a private houseboat through the spectacular backwaters, where the languid pace and lush tropical scenery is interrupted only by close‑up glimpses of traditional village life. Dropping south from India is the teardrop-shaped island of Sri Lanka, a tapestry of culture and nature. Explore its rich heritage of past colonisation and its spiritual roots while wandering through spectacular city ruins. Brian Furbush, International Photographer is there to guide you along the way and offer photographic advice to enable you to capture lifelong images on this amazing journey. Brian loves nothing more than to take his camera around the world to capture amazing images ‑ and hopefully by the end
SAMPLES FROM BRIAN’S PHOTOGRAPHY PORTFOLIO
Brian is a composition artist. Each of his photographs has a measured set of ingredients, creating work that expresses the emotion sparked by the destination through his eyes.
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of the trip, you will too! Whether you are a seasoned traveller, novice photographer or want to take both your travels and photography to a new level, you can’t go past these two enchanting parts of the world.
MEET YOUR HOST Watch Brian’s introduction video online.
Scan over using your QR code reader
Enjoy meandering upriver on a private houseboat through the spectacular backwaters of Kerala.
Tour date: February 16 - 28, 2014
At a glance
What’s included
Day 1 Depart Auckland and arrive at Cochin. Day 2 Sightseeing in Kochi, then drive to Munnar Day 3 Sightseeing in Munnar Day 4 Munnar to Periyar Day 5 Periyar to Alleppey Day 6 Alleppey to Colombo Day 7 Negombo to Habarana Day 8 Sightseeing in Habarana Day 9 Habarana to Kandy Day 10 Kandy to Nuwara Eliya Day 11 Nuwara Eliya to Colombo
• Return Economy flights with Malaysia Airlines from Auckland • 11 breakfasts, 10 lunches, 11 dinners • Airport transfers (as per the itinerary) • Four or five star accommodation on a twin-share basis • Overnight twin-share accommodation on a premium houseboat • Entrance to all the sites listed in the itinerary • Boat safari, village experience, catamaran experience, bullock cart ride • Elephant riding • Two bottles of water per person, per day (in Sri Lanka) • Expert local guides
Day 12 Colombo to Negambo Day 13 Depart Colombo for the return flight to Auckland
One all-inclusive cost covers air fares, four to five star accommodation and meals (land-only options are also available). Please email enquiries@worldexpeditions.co.nz for more information, costs and itinerary for this adventure.
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AN ANCIENT AWAKENING with BRUCE LAYBOURN
Come on a journey of Ancient Awakenings, from a sunrise balloon flight over the glorious ancient jungle temples of Angkor to the lush mangroves of the Peam Krasop Wildlife Sanctuary. Our adventure begins in Siem Reap and the magnificent Angkor, with time to explore the less frequented temple complex of Banteay Srey, where few visitors go. Visit the largest fresh water lake in South East Asia by taking to the water and
cruising along at a leisurely pace exploring the landscape, taking photos and enjoying viewing Cambodian life on the shores. Take in the history of Cambodia at Phnom Penh and the Killing Fields, now a peaceful countryside compared to its atrocious past. The Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda are stunning and a photographer’s dream and for those who love cuisine, we take part in a Khmer cooking class. Beautiful beaches, stunning national parks, ancient ruins, timeless villages, Cambodia has them all. Bruce Laybourn, publisher of Destinations magazine and travel journalist with over 20 years of experience is on hand to enjoy, marvel at and experience this remarkable place with you and to take you on a special journey. Impressive archaeological sites, diverse ecosystems and wildlife, remote hideaways
and of course people whose hospitality is hard to compare. What are you waiting for? Tour date: May 6 - 29, 2014
MEET YOUR HOST Watch Bruce’s introduction video online.
Scan over using your QR code reader
One all-inclusive cost covers air fares, four to five star accommodation and meals (land-only options are also available). Please email enquiries@worldexpeditions.co.nz for more information, costs and itinerary for this adventure.
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COMING SOON. DATES TO BE CONFIRMED...
THE FLORALS OF FRANCE with GRAHAME HAGGART
We know we are in good hands when we tour France with Grahame Haggart, aka Haggie, wine guru and “Cork Puller In Chief”. Haggie’s fascination with wine started at the age of 20 when he joined a local wine group. By age 29 he was in the United Kingdom finals for British Young Wine Taster Of The Year. Several years later he became managing director of the Hugh Johnson Collection, working for his wine hero and mentor, Hugh Johnson. Tour date: September, 2014 TBC
WHERE THE WILD THINGS ARE with ROWENA BAHL
Run wild with Rowena Bahl, editor of Destinations magazine and Wedding Destinations magazine. Also known as “Mowgli”, this wild child is always up for an adventure. Tour date: 2014 TBC On the drawing board: Borneo, Africa, Costa Rica or Oman.
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BAM WHACK THUD Shadow Boxing In The Back Streets Of Old Havana STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHy BY Thai Neave
“Cuban fighters smell fear in their opponents. If they can intimidate you, they've got you. They psychologically steamroll guys.” Michael Bentt, former WBO heavyweight champion
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A COFFEE IN CUBA Cuban coffee with raw chocolate
Coffee instructions • 1 stovetop espresso maker (Moka pot) • finely ground Cuban coffee (Bustelo or Pilon) • raw sugar Place the coffee grounds into the Moka pot. If you can’t get any authentic Cuban coffee, use dark-roasted Colombian coffee instead. Mix coffee grounds with raw sugar. Assemble Moka pot, place onto stove, and brew using low heat.
Raw chocolate instructions • 1 cup of organic cacao butter or coconut oil • 1 ½ cup of organic cacao powder • pinch of Kalahari Salt or Himalayan Pink Salt • 2 tablespoons of organic agave nectar or coconut palm sugar • pinch of cayenne pepper • handful of walnuts • handful of raw pistachios Cut one cup of organic cacao butter or tempered cacao paste into small pieces and melt on the stove, preferably in a glass pan. The temperature should be 35 degrees Celsius and not too hot to your touch. Alternatively, pour hot water into a large, heatproof bowl, put the cacao butter or paste into a smaller bowl in the hot water and melt the chocolate that way. Add the cacao powder and keep mixing with a wooden spoon. Mix well. When the texture is smooth turn off the stove. Add the salt, the agave nectar or coconut palm sugar and the cayenne pepper and mix well. Pour the mixture into a chocolate mould. Top it with the walnuts and dried pistachios and put it in the freezer for 20 - 30 minutes. The chocolates can be stored in a refrigerator for up to eight weeks. Visit: olenkoskitchen.com
DESTINATIONS WORLD EXPEDITIONS JORDAN
Jordan
an unfolding movie with T. E. Lawrence and Indiana Jones STORy BY Glenn A. Baker PHOTOGRAPHY BY TANVEER BADAL
JUICY IN JORDAN Dates stuffed with orange almonds
• • • • •
2 cups of freshly squeezed orange juice 1 cup of almonds 13 Medjool dates pinch of cardamom pinch of cinnamon
Place a pinch of cardamom and cinnamon into a bowl of freshly squeezed orange juice. Soak the almonds in the mixture for four to six hours (or overnight) in a refrigerator. This will activate the enzymes in the almonds and they will be infused with amazing orange, cardamom and cinnamon flavours. Drain the almonds and place in a dehydrator for 12 hours at 43 degrees Celsius or until completely they are dry and crunchy. (If you don’t have a dehydrator, place the almonds in an oven on a very low setting with the door cracked open until the are dry and crunchy.) When the almonds are ready, slit the dates open neatly down one side and remove the pits. Fill each date with two or three dried almonds. They will keep for a few weeks in an airtight container and make a great snack, appetiser or dessert. Visit: olenkoskitchen.com
ARIZONA A Photo essay by Brian Furbush
Sedona BY night The Native Americans call Sedona “The land where Mother Earth’s energy, which gives eternal life comes out”.
Exploring the intrigues of VikingS’ secret paradise STORY and photograPHy by Andrew Allen
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THE NEW ERA -AN
EVOLUTIONARY LEAP Oh HOW THE TABLES HAVE TURNED STORY by MICHAEL HOOPER ILLUSTRATION by Nadeesha Godamunne
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First there was Australopithecus robustus, then there was Homo habilis, followed by Homo erectus, Homo neanderthals, Homo blobus... and now here comes the latest edition of the human species. Perhaps nameless, bred from human trial and error and with no attachment to past or future.
n the beginning there was no table. Survival required that little evidence was left to reveal a human’s vulnerable time and habitual place of eating and sleeping. This same
crumbs by anthropologists studying the rituals of civilisation. Centuries before business class, the difference in what was offered on the table distinguished the classes. In medieval
begun, nothing could slow the advance of special-purpose tools, from corn forks to fish knives, butter knives, steak knives and even cake forks. Individual napkins swept in, lamb chops were dressed in ruffled panties,
cautionary sense, now absent from the DNA of teenagers, still leads humans to make their beds and clear the table each day. However, there came a time when one brave cave dweller staked his place and hewed out the first surface to use as a table. Being different, this ancestor became a leader and inevitably surrounded himself with others who thought all his ideas rocked. Thus, the table stretched out its legs into society. Long before the Druids, the table had become the high place or “altar” of religion. In Hebrew scriptures it was where Abraham called his son Isaac for sacrifice. For Jews, the Passover centres around the family table, where tradition and rites are recalled and kept alive. Plans, verbal histories and ceremonies all found their way to the table, and its evidence has been gathered like
England, meat went only to the nobles who sat above the salt cellar, while bread and cheese fed those “below the salt”. The philosopher Erasmus, in his treatise On Civility in Children, declared chewed food should not be returned to the platter and that only three fingers should delve into the bowl, perhaps reserving the remaining digits for other activities or gestures. Gradually, mostly because of pestilence, eating was separated from other bodily functions, and by the 16th century dining rooms arose and tableware was placed on a cloth over the wood of the table. By 1669, Louis XIV had outlawed the carriage of pointed knives, and soon the survival rate of the nobility was increased by blunting knife points, presenting a knife only with the handle thrust forward, and through a ban on lifting the knife to a face. Once the gentrification of the table had
and by the 1950s even the rural picnic was to the manners borne. The table, however, survived all these changes until recently. Certainly the cunning diplomacy of King Arthur remains echoed in the round Cabinet table, statutes are “tabled” in parliament, and heads of state wishing to make a formal address tend to sit behind a desk. But the dining table itself has become periodic, no longer revered as the font of knowledge, kinship and courtesy. “Could you please pass the salt?” has been superseded by “Would you like fries with that?” Chef Peter Gordon, in Auckland to open his latest restaurant, The Sugar Club, has banned the table cloths that might traditionally be expected in the classy, Italianate, 53rd floor of the Sky Tower. From the kitchen, with its panoramic view
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ONE OF THE FEW AT FISH AUCKLAND VIADUCT // NEW ZEALAND
A city like Auckland with two harbours and a vast coastline should have a wide range of restaurants specialising in seafood, but Fish is one of the few.
The Philosophy A city like Auckland with two harbours and a vast coastline should have a wide range of restaurants specialising in seafood, but Fish is one of the few. Chefs Simon Gault and Shane Yardley take the best of the catch the local fishing boats land each day at the wharves within sight of the restaurant, along with seasonal specialties like scallops and Bluff oysters, and meat dishes that reflect New Zealand’s landscape and traditions in a new light. The Fare Tarakihi is not the usual fish Aucklanders would expect to find in a top restaurant, but Fish serve it pan-roasted with a cauliflower couscous and prosciutto crumb. The scallops are served with a black garlic salsa. The barrel-cut eye fillet comes with truffle parmesan cream, while the lamb is accompanied by an eggplant lasagne. The desserts are another highlight. The deconstructed menu shows off Fish’s gastronomy skills with the nitro-freezing of the mascarpone. The menu has three different sections with a range of prices. The Design As Auckland warms up for the summer, the windows are opened to allow gentle harbour breezes to bring a tang to the atmosphere. When the wide views of Auckland’s harbour and waterfront fade in the twilight, the staff bring out the candles to match the glittering lights of Devonport.
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AUCKLAND VIADUCT // NEW ZEALAND
CHEF CHAT SHANE YARDLEY What is one piece of advice that you would give an emerging chef? Something that you wish you had known when starting out perhaps?
trevally. There is a lot more fish out there than just snapper. In the dining experience, how much
Starting this career requires constant hard work, commitment and sacrifice. Young chefs do not know or expect this job to be so hard. Public holidays? You have got to work. Weekends? You have got to work. Celebrations? You have got to work. It is part of our job. When I started I was told but I didn’t imagine I had to sacrifice so much.
value would you place on food quality, presentation, ambience and service? Can you rate them in order of importance? Food quality and service come equal first in value at 10 out of 10, with ambience and service both equal in second place at eight out of 10. When national dishes have been transplanted can they be as authentic as they are in their homeland? For me they always get lost in translation. I think in a lot of cases food tastes great in its country of origin simply because you are there eating it, and taking in that particular culture and seeing the people from that country going about their daily routines. What are your thoughts on fusion food? Can it work without diluting culture? All food has different influences. It doesn’t matter where you are from, the food in the north of a country can be very different from the food in the south. However, if the culture and religion are the same north and south, so there will always be a specific natural fusion, which is great. It is when you cross the boundaries of a culture and food culture that there’s no justice to anyone. What is the next evolution in the cuisine world? More casual food and dining spaces. People are social and I think food and dining will reflect that.
What are your thoughts on molecular gastronomy? The food critic John Mariani recently said it was all “smoke and mirrors”. Why do you think the style has received so much criticism? Molecular gastronomy has taught chefs a lot. It is a series of techniques that are based on food science and it has taught people how food behaves in different ways. While some of the combinations that can cumulate from this can be wacky, I think the knowledge that is gained from all the research from the introduction of molecular cuisine far outweighs that. How has your heritage influenced your food? My grandmother is a great cook and my grandfather is a great fisherman and hunter. Having a restaurant named Fish is apt because of all the fresh fish I used to catch, with him and my grandmother cooking it. What makes your menu unique? Using a wider variety of fish than people are familiar with, for example hake and
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Molecular gastronomy has taught chefs a lot. While some of the combinations that can cumulate from this can be wacky, I think that the knowledge that is gained from all the research from the introduction of molecular cuisine far outweighs that.
FROM LAOS WITH LOVE AT KHE-YO NEW YORK // USA
PHOTO BY NOAH FECKS
NEW YORK // USA
NEW YORK // USA
THE Philosophy The menu at Khe-Yo, engineered by chef Soulayphet Schwader, is culturally grounded with a modern flair. It combines traditional Laotian cuisine with unique presentation, locally grown organic produce and spicy, savoury sauces that distinguish each main dish individually. Schwader was born in Laos and took his family’s culinary heritage to Kansas and eventually to New York city, where he sought to fill a gap in a city already rich with South East Asian cuisine. Khe-Yo is said to be the city’s first true Laotian restaurant and has been embraced by diners eager to delve into the unknown. THE Fare Diners begin the meal with a basket of sticky
THE Design When a space opened in early 2013, Schwader and his business partner Marc Forgione capitalised on the opportunity, embracing its exposed walls and high ceilings. The result is an intimate, inviting space with a dangling wire chandelier in the centre of the dining room, greenery accenting the rich, exposed brick walls, and a family of bare wooden tables enhancing the casual, laid-back atmosphere.
PHOTO BY PAUL WAGTOUICZ
rice, which they are meant to eat with their hands, and two sauces. One is a seasonal, chunky puree of organic roasted eggplant, the other, called bang bang sauce, is a fiery mix of red chillies, cilantro, fish sauce and lime juice. The bang bang sauce also complements the crunchy coconut rice, providing a necessary punch of heat. The pork belly and shrimp rolls are inventive and a treat to eat, again without cutlery or chopsticks, with diners adding ingredients into lettuce wraps to create their preferred combination of flavours. The black bass is served whole and deboned at the table, with the tender flesh melting away from the skin, while the crispy beef special is accompanied by fresh black kale and a sweet and tangy peanut sauce. Try the lao-lao as a nightcap. The traditional Laotian rice whiskey is a fitting end to the meal.
Khe-Yo is said to be New York city’s first true Laotian restaurant and has been embraced by diners eager to delve into the unknown.
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NEW YORK // USA
It seems we are moving beyond the classification of cuisine by nation into a focus on regional cuisine within a given country.
CHEF CHAT Soulayphet Schwader What brought you to New York City? The idea is that if you can make it here, you can make it anywhere. The natural level of intensity and competition, and the variety of people and food in this city was a natural attraction. What is your favourite food memory? Gorging with my family and friends. When I travel back to Kansas, I call my mom and lay out a five-day schedule of what I want her to make for me. Dinner is all about being with my friends and family in the traditional Laotian style – eating on the floor, with your hands, and just sitting and enjoying the small things in life. You can have a meal for two hours and just enjoy the food and relax – that’s the best kind of meal you can have. When did you know you wanted to become a chef? I attended culinary school and still didn’t know what I wanted to do. When I came to the city in 1999, I realised that you had to be driven to stick with this. I was lucky to work with chefs who really showed passion. If you want to make it in this city, you better love what you do and sacrifice everything to try to make it. How has your heritage influenced your food? I grew up eating traditional Laotian food, and my goal is to incorporate the flavours from home in a modern dish. I try to shop at all the local markets and buy all the ingredients I can. The whole thought behind the menu is to display what I grew up eating, while sourcing out really high quality local ingredients. What makes your menu unique? The menu is traditional Laotian cuisine presented in a way that’s unexpected but carries the soul of the dish.
In the dining experience, how much value would you place on food quality, presentation, ambience and service? Can you rate them in order of importance? Each guest goes out to eat for a different reason, so it’s about emphasising whatever is most important to each individual who joins us. It’s not for us to decide what aspect is most important to the person at the table. We just do our best to make sure all the elements are well thought out, and then we tailor the experience to each guest. When national dishes have been transplanted, can they be as authentic as they are in their homeland? Absolutely. It is possible to source local, seasonal ingredients and still maintain the soul of a dish. What are your thoughts on fusion food? Can it work without diluting culture and identity? Fusion, by definition, combines two different things and dilutes each of them, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing. The United States is a “melting pot,” so it’s a country of fusion when it comes to many things besides food. Fusion can bring an otherwise unknown cuisine or ingredient to the forefront by incorporating it with a better known or approachable counterpart. What is the next evolution in the cuisine world? We have had many eras, what’s next? It seems we are moving beyond the classification of cuisine by nation into a focus on regional cuisine within a given country. Rather than Chinese or Italian cuisine, people learn to appreciate the differences between Yunnan and Szechuan, or Piemontese and Tuscan.
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ROOTS OF REINVENTION AT ELEVEN MADISON NEW YORK // USA
Don’t focus only on what other chefs or restaurants are doing, but look to other artists, other brands and other people you respect.
The Philosophy At Eleven Madison Park there is a strong emphasis on balancing the classic and the modern, on being precise, but also being fun, and on constantly looking forward and finding ways to reinvent. An experience at the restaurant is innovative and interactive, while also being approachable and rooted in a place, in New York. The Fare The food focuses on the extraordinary agricultural bounty of New York and centuries-old culinary traditions that have taken root here. Seasonality plays a role in everything that is served and each course contributes to the greater narrative of the meal. Ingredients are sourced from local farmers and artisans and everything that is conceived in the kitchen is done so with precision, simplicity, and a respect for the ingredients being showcased. The Design Eleven Madison Park is set in the historic Met Life building, an Art Deco space that was once a grand meeting hall, and features 12 metre ceilings and views of Madison Square Park. Many elements from the original space remain, including the marble detailing, fluorescent light fixtures, and intricate design work. In recreating the space it was integral to preserve these elements and weave others from that time with modern touches to create a cohesive, comfortable, and truly unique space. The result is a timeless room that is both majestic and intimate.
PHOTOS BY FRANCESCO TONELLI
CHEF CHAT DANIEL HUMM How would you define American cuisine? American cuisine is so hard to define. After much thought, I believe it’s focused on the products that can be sourced across the country and the way in which the seasons dictate the ingredients. Cooking what is around us and what is available to us is now commonplace and is the backbone of this country’s cuisine. Yes, there are regional elements that come into play and intensely cultural dishes that remain integral to a certain city, but overall the cuisine is about showcasing the ingredients available in one’s own back yard. Your interest in cooking started around the age of 14, is that correct? What is one piece of advice you would give to an emerging chef, something you wish you had known when you first started out, perhaps. Yes, I found cooking to be a real passion of mine at a young age. The profession has certainly changed over the years, but one bit of advice I always share with our young cooks and staff is that you must look for inspiration in unexpected places. Don’t focus only on what other chefs or restaurants are doing, but look to other artists, other brands and other people you respect. What is the key to restaurant longevity? Always look for ways to evolve and reinvent. We’ve created a culture that embraces change and that has really allowed us to maintain relevance while constantly pursuing excellence. How has your heritage influenced your food? Growing up in Switzerland, I was exposed to the beauty and bounty of food at a very young age. I would join my mother at the farmer’s market almost every morning. We ate seasonally, locally, and I’d lend a hand in the kitchen preparing ingredients and getting meals on the table. I learned about the importance of quality ingredients and of developing a relationship with the hardworking farmers we bought our goods from. That’s certainly had a lasting impact on my career and how I approach each and every dish. What makes your menu unique? The inspiration behind the menu comes from so many places, from so many different industries, and brands we respect. It also comes from New York, our home, and from the deep culinary and cultural roots here.
This allows us to create a narrative and build an experience for our guests that is unique, but also familiar at the same time. You have a sense of place here at Eleven Madison Park that’s truly New York. In the dining experience, how much value would you place on food quality, service, presentation and ambience? Can you rate them in order of importance? For a dining experience to be truly great, all these factors need to come into play. They need to work in harmony. The quality of the food is the first thing most diners will notice, but if the service is lacking, or the ambience is off, food quality is only so important. Balance is key. Teamwork is key. There is no such thing as back of the house or front of the house in our restaurant, as it’s all seamless support. When national dishes have been transplanted, can they still be as authentic as they are in their homeland? Absolutely. What it comes down to is the quality of the dish and the ingredients it is prepared with. Once those things are in place I believe a dish can travel around the world and be just as delicious as where it came from. It’s the ability of chefs to succeed in transplanting dishes around the world that helps cuisine as a whole spread and evolve. What are your thoughts on fusion food? Can it work without diluting culture and identity? I think that so much of food is about bringing ideas together and finding ways to develop concepts and dishes, as well as utilising and revering local ingredients. Some people might call that fusion, others may not. I do believe that having roots in a cuisine or a culture is important, but that it’s also important to look forward and to reinvent. What is the next evolution in the cuisine world? We have had many eras and many trends. What do you think is next? Many great chefs, ideas and restaurants in South and Central America are bringing a lot of indigenous ingredients and recipes to the attention of the culinary world. Just like the emergence of Nordic cuisine and its influence, I believe we are seeing something similar with the cuisines and ingredients of South and Central America. I’m excited to see what’s next.
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You just viewed a preview of Destinations Volume 1, 2014 To view this magazine in print you can order your copy or subscribe subs@destinationsmagazine.com Or You can go to our facebook page to keep updated on our upcoming launch in the Apple store. facebook.com/destinationsmedia Happy travelling