Hiking
P AT R O N AT D E T U R I S M E D I P U TA C I Ó D E T A R R A G O N A
DE LA
Passeig Torroja, s/n · 43007 Tarragona Tel. +34 977 23 03 12 · Fax +34 977 23 80 33 www.costadaurada.info costadaurada@turisme.altanet.org
GB
E
very place has a soul, even if it is not
always easy to perceive. To enter into the intimacy of the landscape it is necessary to take your time, to approach it slowly. That is why the best way to come into contact with the countryside, its natural values, and its heritage, is on foot. Only then will the places open up their secrets Published by: the Tourism Board of the Provincial Government of Tarragona
to you and show you their true selves.
Coordination and texts: Rafael López-Monné Photographs: Rafael López-Monné, except for Castell d’Escornalbou (Jordi Tutusaus) and that of the bibliography (Joan Alberich). Graphic design: Elena Cruz • Disseny i comunicació Illustrations: Sílvia Civit i Elena Cruz Costa Daurada Map: Elena Cruz Illustration selection: Ferran Aguilar Translation: Paul Turner and Alphabet Photolithography: Foto & Croms Printing: Tàctil
Cover photo: Mola de Roquerola Back cover photo: Bosc de Poblet c texts, photographs and illustrations: the authors c publication: Patronat de Turisme de la Diputació de Tarragona.
Costa Daurada hiking El Montsant, Serra Major
D.L. T-67/2004
71 GR 1
8
5-5
-5 65 GR
Riu
GR 17 1
sant Mont La Morera de Montsant Scala Dei
e Ebr
a
e ll ar
Dual carriageways
Horta de St. Joan
GR 7
Arnes
Pa ls rr a
From Prades to the Tossal de la Baltasana
GR 171
Se
10 Whimsical Games of Water and Stone
Po ls
Path continues GR (Long Distance) Wrong direction GR (Long Distance) Path continues PR (Short Distance) Wrong direction PR (Short Distance)
On the Costa Daurada there is an extensive network of signposted Long Distance Footpaths (GR) marked in red and white and Short Distance Footpaths (PR) marked in yellow and white. Our itineraries often follow these footpaths, although they can also take other paths not specifically signposted as walking routes. In any case, the description and the map of each itinerary are sufficient for you to be able to follow them.
Mt.Caro
TORTOSA GR 192
Sª
LÕAmpolla
Deltebre
AMPOSTA Sant Jaume
MONTSIÀ
dÕEnveja
Delta de l’Ebre
AP-7
Ulldecona
Alcanar
La Mola de Colldejou N-340
tsià on
1 Sant Carles de la R pita
Les Cases dÕAlcanar
GR 19 2
C-32
M GR 92
BAIX CAMP 92 GR 1
Calafell
Creixell
Coma-ruga
Altafulla Torredembarra
TARRAGONA
GR 92 GR 9
2
Cambrils
Miami Platja
LÕHospitalet de lÕInfant
à r er
it
Roquetes
7 GR
GR
E
1 219
Roda de Bar
GR 172 / GR 92
4
BAIX EBRE
El M
From Poblet to the Mirador de la Pena via l’Alzinar
Mont-roig del Camp
TARRAGONÈS
LÕAmetlla de Mar
El Perell
GR 92
2
r ts
The Depth of the Mediterranean Woodland
92
From Capafonts to the Cova de la Grallera and the Roca Foradada
Colldejou
Vandell s GR
REUS
6
GR 92
EL VENDRELL
R7
Serra del C ard ó
GR 7
71 GR 1
3
9 The Heart of the Mountains of Prades
s dol àn
G
BAIX PENEDÈS
N-240
B o ix
Naturals Parks
Mountains of Prades
5
Tivissa Serra de Ti v
7
Duesaig es LÕArgentera Riudecanyes Escornalbou -3
a laberi eL .d
GR 7
del
From the Chapel of St. Antoni of Ulldemolins to the Chapel of St. Bartomeu
GR 171
Long Distance Footpaths
MORA DÕEBRE avalls eC re d . Eb Sª
a iss
8 Under the Serene Protection of Nature
N-420
GR171-3
Ri u
Secondary roads
GANDESA
Sª. de P
Main roads
Ascent of the Serra Major del Montsant through the Graus de La Morera
171
7 GR
3 117 GR
Beauty Spots and Landscapes for the Soul
GR
FALSET
TERRA ALTA
National highways
El Montsant
GR 17 4
RIBERA D’EBRE
-5
GR
Alforja
N-340
AP-7
72
e la
VALLS
La Mussara
PRIORAT
t Fa
Motorways
From Arnes to Els Estrets, Mas de la Franqueta and Mas de Quiquet
11
ad
65
GR 7
7
ny a
12
GR 1
Se rr
4-1
5-5
3 The Landscapes of Picasso
Proposed itineraries
17
Muntanyes de Prades GR Capafonts
fa g a
GR 175
ALT CAMP
10
Prades
Sª de Bru
tmell Mon El Santes Creus La Juncosa Aiguam rcia de Montmell
7 GR
171
GR 6
1
GR
9
GR
7
172 GR
GR 175
172 GR
Flix
Els Ports
GR1 71
GR 171
r tcla on
GR 175
Ma rM ed
El Montmell, the Churches of Sant Miquel, the Castle and La Talaia
7
GR 655
GR 65-5-1
Ascent to Escornalbou from Duesaigües, returning via Argentera
From the foot of Mount Caro to the Coll de Pallers and the Cova del Vidre
Vimbod GR Poblet R 175171 G MONTBLANC
4
The Castle and Monastery of Cornu Bovis
Serra La Ulldemolins
5 17 GR
LÕEspluga de Francol
11
GR 6
The Grand Mountain of Southern Catalonia
CONCA DE BARBERÀ
a L le n
GR 17
From Tivissa to the Ermita de Sant Blai, returning via the cliffs of La Llena
a ad ur Da
GR 7
Co sta
From Ametlla de Mar to Ampolla and the Ebro Delta
GR 1 75
AP-2
12 Reconquered Territories
2
171
A climb to the Roca Foradada of Sant Carles de la Ràpita
GR 17 4
6
Ca tal unya GR
5
On the Old Roads of Catalunya Nova
GR
For s
GR 171-4
4
The Essence of the Mediterranean
GR 171
5 517 GR
The Montsià, a grand balcony over the Ebro Delta
5
71-1
GR 175 17
Coastal Mountains 1
GR 171
GR
Sta. Coloma de Queralt
GR 1
Itineraries
a i n
Cunit
Surroundings of St. Gregori Hermitage, Falset
Serra de la Gritella
Hiking and trekking are synonyms for the activity of walking for the pleasure of discovering, of getting to know and of coming into direct contact with nature. For those with curious and sensitive spirits, the Costa Daurada has much to offer. Places full of history and nature, moulded over the centuries by the generations that have lived there. Mediaeval castles and Romanesque chapels combine with leafy woods and aromatic plants, naked crags poised in the sky, and hidden coves bathed by the gentle waters of the Mediterranean.
El Montsant, Serra Major
Worthy of special mention are highly emblematic natural spaces such as the Delta de l'Ebre and the massifs of els Ports and el Montsant (both of these now Nature Reserves), as well as the mountains of Prades, also soon to be a reserve. A countryside linked to an intense history like that of Poblet, the most significant Cistercian monastery on the Iberian Peninsula, or Scala Dei, the first Carthusian retreat built south of the Pyrenees. All this in a Mediterranean agricultural landscape of great scenic beauty and provider of exceptional olive oils and wines.
Cliffs of Siurana
To travel these areas, we have the privilege of being able to use the extensive network of traditional footpaths that, little by little, are being rescued from oblivion. Ancient horse and cart tracks, thousand-year-old trails of cattle herders and charcoal makers, paths often as humble as they are necessary to understand the past of this land. We are pleased to offer you twelve itineraries that are only a small sample of the natural and cultural attractions of the Costa Daurada - spots just waiting to be discovered by those who take pleasure in connecting with the soul of places. Surroundings of Els Estrets River
La Marquesa Woods, Tarragona Coast
La Bartra, Prades Mountains
Cross of Santos, Serra de Cardรณ
Description of the itinerary From Sant Carles de la Ràpita we take the Mata-redona track that runs alongside the football pitch and crosses the main road going around the town to continue up the Barranc del Solito gully. We recommend driving to the point where the asphalt ends and there is a small esplanade where you can park. From here we begin the itinerary on foot, following the old Mas de Mata-redona path indicated by the yellow and white markings of a short distance footpath (PR), and crossing one of the last redoubts of autochthonous holm-oaks left on the massif. It is worthwhile noting the painstaking construction of the path on its initial stretches and to see how the dry-stone walls elegantly withstand the passing of time on the slopes.
ura
da
Co
sta
Da
Sant Carles de la Ràpita
The Montsià from the Ebro Delta
A strategic lookout point to measure meridian lines
The Serra de Montsià epitomizes and concentrates, as do few others, the crude beauty of the Mediterranean limestone mountains. One is impressed by the extreme aridness, the violence of the ravines that reach down
to the bay of Els Alfacs, and the rich spread of colours – ochres, greys, and whites – of the limestone. So striking is the presence of the mountain, it has given the name to the county itself. Here, instead being a border between territories, it is the mountain that has found itself isolated, as if it were an island, by the plains that surround it, by
the river, by the sea, by the cultivated fields, and by the villages that have grown up around it. The fame of the Montsià as a lookout point is not recent. Its strategic position provided it with an important role in the geodesic work of measuring the Paris meridian. On its summit was placed one of the two vertices (five coinciding triangles) of the
long chain that linked Dunkerque with the island of Mallorca.
Juniperus oxycedrus Juniper
Direction GR
The encounter with the Roca Foradada (Holed Rock) (686m) is always a surprise. A large stone window frames a captivating view. Behind us rise the mountains of Els Ports and in front of us is the Ebro Delta, spread out like a sheet over the sea. We can return by the same path, but it is worthwhile taking the GR that brings us again to the Font del Burgar, passing by the ruins of the Mata-redona farmhouse, a testimonial to the efforts of previous generations to convince the mountain to let them live there. Recommendations: You can take water from the Font del Burgar spring. In summer during the middle of the day it can be very hot. Don’t forget to wear a hat. From the Roca Foradada, the fittest can tackle the exceptional full crossing of the massif, either by following the crest of the mountain or by flanking the southern slope just below the walls, keeping all the time to the PR 33 that leads to Mas de Mulet farm and Alcanar (approx. 8 hours). Further information: Tourist Information Offices in Sant Carles de la Ràpita (977 74 46 24, www.larapita.com) and Alcanar (977 73 76 39).
The Montsià from Els Ports
PR
92
Tarragona
Start
GR
A climb to the Roca Foradada of Sant Carles de la Ràpita
Itinerary
92
1
Farther on, after passing some zigzags, we come to the red and white markings of the GR 92 long distance footpath which we have to follow as far as La Font (spring) del Burgar. Once at the spring, we follow the yellow and white PR markings again as they turn off to the left. After a short time we come to the backbone of the mountain and continue climbing up old cultivated terraces. The path then gets steeper and joins up with the GR again a few metres from the end.
GR
Coastal Mountains
Cliffs of the coastal slopes
PR
33
Maps: Institut Cartogràfic de Catalunya (ICC)
Sant Carles de la Ràpita Scale: 1:50.000
Description of the itinerary From Tortosa and Roquetes we take the dramatic “El Port” road that climbs up to Mt. Caro (1.442 m). Having passed the most breathtaking zigzags, when the road begins to enter into the massif, we follow the road to El Mascar, a residential area below Mt. Caro, and continue along a forest track in the direction of Fredes. The itinerary follows the GR 7 footpath and starts shortly after the Coll de la Carrasqueta (1.060 m), where the GR turns off the track to the left towards the Coll de Pallers. You can either leave your vehicle here or farther back, in front of one of the restaurants.
Els Ports
2
From the foot of Mount Caro to the Coll de Pallers and the Cova del Vidre
sta
D
da
Co
Tortosa
Orió Gully
The Paradise of the Wild Mountain Goat
The Ports are without a doubt some of the wildest, untamed mountains on the Mediterranean coast of the Iberian Peninsula, particularly on their maritime slopes. The descent from the peaks to the plains that straddle the
majestic River Ebro is abrupt and violent. In just a few kilometres the mountains drop more than a thousand metres, forming deep, rugged ravines. Probably the extraordinarily steep slopes of these calcareous mountains is the reason why it is the only range in Catalonia that has retained a considerable number of wild mountain goats (capra pyrenaica),
Itinerary Start Direction GR
Els Ports from Mt. Caro
Despite its proximity to the sea, the vegetation is surprisingly rich and varied owing to the altitude - never less than a thousand metres above sea level. Holly trees, yews, maples, and bearberry bushes combine with fine examples of red pine (pinus silvestris) and Scotch pine (pinus nigra).
Tarragona ra au
After crossing the Coll de Pallers, the itinerary continues along the southeastern slope of the Marturi ridge. This is a mountain trail that constantly climbs and descends, following the uneven relief of the mountain. There are truly magnificent views of the fantastic ravines, the plains of the Baix Ebre region, the river, the Montsià mountains, and the immense Ebro Delta.
Cova del Vidre
that have survived even the most critical moments of human persecution. Since the creation of Els Ports National Hunting Reserve in 1966, the population has recovered spectacularly and its future now seems guaranteed. This natural area is also home to other species such as the genet, the badger and various types of eagle, falcon and vulture.
To the right of the path we come upon an impressive opening in the cliff – the Cova (cave) del Vidre, with a track running up to it. This is a cavern of surprising dimensions in which prehistoric remains have been found and which continues to be a magnificent shelter – the perfect place to stop and rest, or even to spend the night.
Recommendations: Experienced hikers with a map and guide can follow the GR from the Cova del Vidre to Font (spring) de la Llagosta and Casetes Velles (“Old Houses”). From there you can make a full circle by crossing over the Mola de Serrasoles, descending to Font de l’Avellana and returning to El Mascar. Capra pyrenaica Wild mountain goat
7 GR
Further Information: Roquetes Town Council (977 501 244), Tortosa Information Office (977 510 822 www.tortosa.altanet.org)
7 GR
Maps: Institut Cartogràfic de Catalunya (ICC)
Scale: 1:50.000
Description of the itinerary The itinerary follows the PR 185. You can start the walk in the village of Arnes, or drive to near the beginning of Els Estrets. From the viewpoint between the village’s church and the elegant Renaissance town hall we can clearly see the route we have to take, which starts just below the square. The yellow and white PR signs show the way (most of which is asphalted).
Els Ports
3
From Arnes to Els Estrets, Mas de la Franqueta and Mas de Quiquet
Tarragona
sta
Da
Co
Arnes
da ura
Riu dels Estrets
An exceptional gateway into Els Ports Natural Park A walk between the majestic walls of Els Estrets (“The Straits”) of Arnes is, without a doubt, one of the most evocative ways of entering the magnificent Els Ports mountains. Bare, rounded rocks introduce the visitor to one
of the sheerest and least-known of Catalonia’s mountainous areas, now soon to become a Natural Park. The pass between Les Moles (hills) del Don and Les Moles dels Vernets is truly impressive. In some places the polished rock walls give the sensation of being at the bottom of an immense slide. On this itinerary we also have the added attraction of
experiencing some of the landscapes that inspired Pablo Picasso in his youth. The famous artist spent periods in a cavern near the Mas de Quiquet farm in the company of Salvadoret, a friend from Horta, in search of the peace and inspiration that would signify, among other things, the beginning of his cubist period.
At Km 2.8 the PR turns to the right, but if we are driving we have to go straight on. We cross the river and a little farther on, where the asphalt ends, there is a fork in the road. We carry straight on until we reach a small flat area where we can park. This is the gateway to Els Estrets d’Arnes. At the bottom of a short descent we pick up the PR markers again and follow them until we reach the end of our trail. Once we have passed the most spectacular stretch, the path continues along the course of the river, through beautiful scenery, with areas of exuberant vegetation that contrast with the landscape we have just seen. After a time, the valley widens and we come to a picnic area next to the Mas de la Franqueta farm (accessible by car from Horta).
Els Estrets River Valley
Itinerary Start Direction PR
The Benet Rocks
PR 185
The “Ecomuseu dels Ports” has installed various informative panels with explanations about the different trades and occupations associated with the area, such as, for example, the work of a coalmine. Continuing up the path, we come to the recently-restored Mas del Quiquet farmhouse. It was here that Picasso and Salvadoret came to collect the provisions that were brought for them by donkey from Horta and which the artist immortalised in one of his paintings.
Recommendations: The villages of Arnes and Horta are both worth spending some time in. In the latter we recommend seeing the Picasso Centre (977 435 330) and the Ecomuseu dels Ports (977 430 018).
Ruscus aculeatus Holly
Further information: Tourist information from the Terra Alta County Council (Consell Comarcal) (977 420 018) Horta Information Office (977 435 600); www.arnes.altanet.org.
PR 185
Maps: Institut Cartogràfic de Catalunya (ICC)
Scale: 1:50.000
Description of the itinerary The itinerary follows the red and white markings of the GR 92 “Mediterranean Footpath”. Departing from Ametlla and passing by three coves, we reach the natural harbour of L’Estany Gros, where the fishermen of Ametlla used to anchor their boats, until the present-day harbour was built in 1920. The rich fishing grounds of this coast were what brought the first family of Valencian fishermen here in 1775, as they fled from the constant plagues that affected their city.
Coastal Mountains
4
Tarragona L’Ametlla de Mar da
Co
sta
ura
Further information: The Tourism Boards of Ametlla (977 456 477 www.ametllademar.org) and Ampolla (977 460 018 www.ampolla.com) The Office of the Ebro Delta Natural Park (977 489 679).
GR
l’Ametl de Ma
The itinerary crosses the area between the Barranc (gully) de Santes Creus and the Punta de l’Àliga, a protected nature reserve for, among other things, its fields of marine algae and endemic snail, the dendarus schsteri. The name Santes Creus was given by the monks of the Cistercian monastery who, for centuries, ran the mediaeval hospice of Font del Perelló on southern slopes of the Coll de Balaguer, the predecessor of another hospice located on the north slope of the hill and the origin of the present-day town of Hospitalet de l’Infant.
From Ametlla de Mar to Ampolla and the Ebro Delta
Da
Ampolla, on the other hand, had been a stop on the Royal Road that followed the ancient Roman Via Augusta to link Tarragona and Valencia. According to historical documents, th there were already families living from fishing here in the 16 th century, and at the end of the 19 century, the beaches became popular with the first bathers. Today the town is also an ideal starting point for a visit to the Ebro Delta Natural Park.
Recommendations: The itinerary can be divided into two trips, bearing in mind that the Àliga Cove is the approximate halfway point between Ampolla and Ametlla. Since the walk does not return to its starting point, you should arrange for some kind of transport. If you have a mobile phone you can call for a taxi (639 086 201 / 977 456 468 / 646 666 022), or, alternatively, you can turn back after walking half the time allowed for. Don’t forget to wear a hat and take water.
Traditional rice harvesting, Ebro Delta
Cliffs
L’Ampolla
Follow the ancient patrol paths and discover unexpected spots To walk the seashore and discover secluded coves and hidden beauty spots, along one of the most attractive and least-spoilt stretches of coastline on the Costa Daurada, is a genuine pleasure. In fact, the only way to
Itinerary
enjoy and capture the unsuspected beauty of this part of the coast is either from the sea or by following the old patrol paths. These tracks were used in centuries gone by to patrol the coast and reach the watchtowers from where observers scanned the horizon to warn of the approach of pirates or invading
armies. Today, these pathways, often simple tracks, have become excellent guides to some unexpected places of great natural beauty, while skirting around colourful cliffs at the gateway to the Ebro Delta. This itinerary links two seafaring towns with a long tradition of fishing Ametlla de Mar and Ampolla.
Start Direction GR Chamaerops humilis Palmetto
GR
92
Maps: Institut Cartogràfic de Catalunya (ICC)
Scale: 1:50.000
Description of the itinerary Our trip starts in the upper part of Tivissa, in front of the Fire Station. A signpost indicates the GR 7 that leads to the Chapel of St. Blai, following part of the old road to El Perelló. The GR 7 was inaugurated in this part of the Tivissa mountains because it was the hikers of Tarragona who plotted the route of what would be the first long distance footpath south of the Pyrenees. The hiking associations of Reus were particularly experienced in restoring ancient footpaths, having held an annual “Country Footpath Day” since 1965.
Coastal mountains
5
From Tivissa to the Ermita de Sant Blai, returning via the cliffs of La Llena
Tarragona Tivissa
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da
Co
sta
Da
Sant Blai path
The Birthplace of the Long Distance Footpaths
Tivissa has a long history, as is testified to by its prehistoric cave paintings, Iberian archaeological sites and Roman past. However, it was following the Christian reconquest of these lands that it became one of the most
important centres of colonization for Catalunya Nova. For hundreds of years Tivissa has played an important role as a commercial and agricultural centre for the lands of the Ribera d’Ebre region, a fact that explains the extensive network of traditional pathways linking the village with the numerous farms found within its
boundaries, true agricultural industries of days gone by. It was here, at the Chapel of St. Blai on 2 March 1975, that the first red and white GR sign in the whole of Spain was painted. Today there are more than 18,000 kilometres of marked Long Distance Footpaths on the Iberian Peninsula.
From the chapel we retrace our steps a few metres and at the Font (spring) de St. Blai we take the path that leads to the Coll (hill) de Monegret. From here we follow the yellow and white markings of the PR. The footpath crosses several tracks until it finally joins up with a wider path as far as the Coll de la Llena (560 m), also called the Collet dels Tormos de la Margarida on some maps. At this point we leave the main path and take a horse track to the left that flanks the hill as far as Coll de Picafocs. From here the old La Llena path descends between the walls of the limestone cliffs that enclose Tivissa to the south. The width of the footpath, the quality of the cobbled paving that still survives, and the size of the drainage channels that diverted the rainwater, all show the importance it must have had and the traffic that must have used it in the past. Some people still refer to it as the “mule drivers’ path” or the “path of the fish”, because it was along this way that fish was brought from Ametlla de Mar.
Recommendations: You can take water at the Font de St. Blai spring. In summer it can be very hot during the sunniest part of the day. Don’t forget to take a hat and a water canteen. Tivissa is a particularly attractive village and it is worth taking time to enjoy it. Erica multiflora Heather
Further information: Tivissa Town Council (977 418 014). Tourist Office (977 417 551, June - September).
La Llena path
Itinerary Start Direction GR PR
Hermitage of Sant Blai
GR
GR
7
7
Maps: Institut Cartogràfic de Catalunya (ICC)
Scale: 1:50.000
Description of the itinerary Our proposed itinerary starts at Duesaigües. At the side of the road to Argentera, to the left, there is a signpost indicating Escornalbou and the yellow and white markings of a PR (Short Distance Footpath), which we follow until we reach Argentera. We have to cross the gully and climb up the other slope, following a wide dirt track almost all the way, until we come to the road which leads to the castle.
Coastal Mountains
6
Start
Co
sta
a r ad
Direction GR PR
Escornalbou Castle-Monastery
7
u
Itinerary
GR
When we arrive at the first houses of Argentera, just at the spot where there is a sign indicating Escornalbou, we have to leave the PR and take the path that descends in the direction of the gully, passing alongside a poultry farm. This is the way to Duesaigües, a very pleasant walk.
Tarragona Da
Views from the summit of Santa Bàrbara
From Escornalbou the itinerary continues towards Argentera along the old horse track that leads off to the left from the parking area at the foot of the castle. The stone paving of this path is exceptionally attractive and although some parts are deteriorated, it is still one of the most interesting historical footpaths in the province of Tarragona.
Ascent to Escornalbou from Duesaigües, returning via Argentera
Duesaigües
The present-day appearance of the building is far removed from what it looked like as a monastery. The damage caused by war, the period of abandonment following the Disentailment, and even the effects of an earthquake, all caused it to gradually fall th into ruin. Luckily, at the beginning of the 20 century, Eduard Toda, a gentleman from Reus, saved it from total collapse and rebuilt it in the neogothic style of the period, with the aim of converting it into his personal residence.
PR
Path from Escornalbou to Argentera
A place full of scenery and history The ascent to an ancient Roman fortress converted into a mediaeval monastery and later into the residence a romantic diplomat, passing through veritable “tunnels” of Mediterranean woodland vegetation, with centuries-old cobble stones beneath your feet,
sounds almost like a dream. The villages of Argentera and Duesaigües are the starting points for two of the most delightful routes up to Escornalbou, a place full of fascinating history and beautiful scenery. Its advantages as an observation post and the proximity of the silver mines of Argentera could have been the reason the Romans built the fortress
of Cornu Bovis here. After them came Saracens, Christians, Augustinian friars, Franciscans, antiBourbon guerrillas, Napoleonic soldiers, Carlists, British consuls, philanthropic bourgeoisies, bankers, etc. Finally, a few years ago, the Catalan Autonomous Government and the Tarragona Provincial Government agreed to buy Escornalbou and open it to the public.
Recommendations: The tour of Escornalbou Castle should not be missed and also the climb to the peak of Santa Bàrbara, from where there are magnificent views. Visiting times: June - September: 10 – 13.30, 16 – 19.30. October - May: 10 – 13.30, 15 – 17.30. Closed Mondays and public holidays in the afternoons. You can make a shorter excursion by starting and finishing at Argentera, or you can make it longer by following the PR from Duesaigües to Riudecanyes, walking along the shores of the reservoir. The road up to Escornalbou starts in the village of Riudecanyes. Quercus suber Cork oak
Further information: Castell d’Escornalbou (977 834 007). Riudecanyes Town Council (977 83 40 05 www.riudecanyes.altanet.org).
PR
Maps: Institut Cartogràfic de Catalunya (ICC)
Scale: 1:50.000
Description of the itinerary The itinerary starts off at the village of La Morera de Montsant and brings you into contact with the Serra Major, a formidable wall that can only be overcome through a few passes known as “graus”. We depart from the upper part of the village, following the red and white markers of the GR 171 that goes to El Grau de l’Agnet. The path is straight in many stretches and ends up making its way through a small passage between the rocks to reach the summit of the Roca Falconera.
El Montsant
7
Ascent of the Serra Major del Montsant through the Graus de La Morera
Vines in the autumn
Tarragona ura
da
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The Serra Major from the Roca Falconera
The spirituality that emanates from a “holy mountain” The Montsant is the most symbolic mountain in the province of Tarragona. Its importance is not limited to natural values, although it is an area with a rich biodiversity. The great significance of this mountain, called by the
Els Graus de la Serra Major
Muslims gäbal al-barka, or “blessed mountain”, lies in the cultural values it treasures. The character of the area is profoundly linked with the hermits who, since th the 9 century, have lived in its caves, and fundamentally with the building of the Carthusian monastery of Scala Dei, a permanent symbol of reflection, spirituality and transcendence.
Furthermore, the Montsant is an oasis in the midst of a land that is changing from day to day at an alarming speed. The majority of this mountain is only accessible on foot – almost a luxury in a world that is ever more mechanized. No roads cross it, no electricity pylons, no communications masts – only hermitages and silence.
The GR follows the line of the main ridge, where it joins up with the GR 174-1. We have to follow the GR 171 in a westerly direction, leaving it when it starts to descend the right-hand slope. We continue across the main rump of the Serra Major until we come to the signpost indicating the Grau de la Grallera and La Morera de Montsant. The descent first crosses an extensive stony area and then files between the rocks of the Grau. This was the old footpath from La Morera to Ulldemolins that crossed the Montsant from one side to the other.
Recommendations: A tour of the Carthusian Monastery of Scala Dei is practically obligatory. Opening times: July - September: 10 – 13.30, 16 – 19.30. October - June: 10 – 13.30, 15 – 17.30. Closed Mondays. Tuesdays free entrance. Walking on the Montsant in foggy weather is not recommended – the hills and gullys can become an incredible labyrinth. You need to take water with you.
Aquila chrysaetos Golden eagle
Further information: La Morera Tourism Board (977 827 310 www.morera.altanet.org). Scala Dei Carthusian Monastery (977 827 006).
Carthusian Monastery of Scala Dei
Itinerary
GR 171
La Morera de Montsant
At the very top, the Montsant displays a beautiful and captivating nudity. In the words of the Alpine writers of the 19th century, it is one of those prized places where the soul can rest and be calm. From here you have a wide panorama. At the foot of the mountain you can see Priorat county with its vine-covered llicorella slate hills from which the exceptional Designation of Origin Priorat wines come. To the left is Siurana and the Mountains of Prades, and in the background, the Mediterranean.
Start Direction GR
GR 1 74-1
GR
1 17
Maps: Institut Cartogràfic de Catalunya (ICC)
Scale: 1:50.000
Description of the itinerary It is possible to start the trip by walking from Ulldemolins following the GR 65-5, which you keep to along the whole itinerary. Alternatively, you can drive to the chapel of St. Antoni along the “Camí de les Ermites”. From there you can take the forest track to the Font (spring) de la Gleva. The GR turns off the forest track in certain parts to avoid some of the detours it makes. From this point you continue along the old horse track that links Ulldemolins and Margalef, following the course of the River Montsant.
El Montsant
8
From the Chapel of St. Antoni of Ulldemolins to the Chapel of St. Bartomeu
Ermita de Sant Bartomeu
The valley scenery starts to become quite fantastic with the colours and the whimsical shapes taken on by the huge blocks of conglomerate rock that line the river and have been given names like “The Three Jurors”, “The Dancing Rock”, “The Kneading Trough”, “The Saddle”, and the “The Chair”. When you reach the height of the Barranc (gully) of St. Bartomeu, that comes down from the right, you cross the river on a small suspension bridge. The path that goes up the gully, sometimes along the (normally dry) bed of the torrent itself, takes you directly to the chapel of St. Bartomeu.
Itinerary Inicio Direction Bridge over the River Montsant
GR
Ulldemolins Tarragona da
The hermitage of Saint Bartomeu is the essence of the spirit that many people have found in the mountain of Montsant over the centuries. This small, hiddenaway Romanesque chapel stands out in a special way through the
important hermitic and religious tradition that makes this mountain unique. To lean against its walls and to allow yourself to be moved by the impressive curved rocks that protect and hide it can be an almost mystical experience, a veritable purification treatment. No vehicles can get here. From this spot all you can contemplate is
rocks, plants and serenity. Being here makes it a little easier to disconnect from the hectic pace of modern life and to slow down to a more natural “tempo”, where time passes more slowly, simply, and with the sun. Moreover, the path from St. Antoni takes you through one of the most attractive parts of the Montsant, the Congost de Fraguerau.
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-1
GR 65-5
Another way of measuring time
65
-5
Gully of St. Bartomeu
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This is the oldest hermitage on the Montsant. In the year 1160, Brother Guerau Miquel came to this spot to live in a cave close to where the chapel would be built some years th later. The last hermit lived here until the middle of the 19 century. Eventually, after years of abandonment, the people of Ulldemolins restored it during the nineteen-seventies. In the new, small belfry there now hangs a bell made from the remains of a civil war bomb - an evocative symbol of a place that for more than eight centuries has offered peace and reflection.
Recommendations: A few metres on from the Font (spring) de la Gleva there is a small gorge on the River Montsant, known as Les Cadolles Fondes. It is a lovely spot and an ideal place to swim in the summer. In the hermitage of St. Bartomeu there is an interesting rock that collects, drop by drop, the water that runs down the inside of the walls.
Rosa canina. Wild rose
Further information: Ulldemolins Tourism Board (977 561 578 www.ulldemolins.altanet.org).
71 GR 1
Maps: Institut Cartogràfic de Catalunya (ICC)
GR 1 71
Scale: 1:50.000
Description of the itinerary Our itinerary starts in the town of Prades, at the top of Colomers Street, by the side of the road to Poblet. The GR 171 goes up the street, but we have to take the road on the left in the direction of the Coll (hill) de Forquetes, following a PR (the markings of which are hard to see at present). This is a traditional footpath that went from Prades to Espluga de Francolí. The remains of the stone cobbles on some stretches testify to its past importance.
The Heart of the Mountains of Prades
Mountains of Prades
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From Prades to the Tossal de la Baltasana
On the Coll del Bosc there are various signs indicating the way to the La Baltasana. The path changes sides and gives us a wonderful view across the Barranc (gully) del Titllar and the woods of Poblet. We cross an area of autochthonous woodland that is one of the most beautiful forested parts of the Prades Mountains. We pass by the entrance to an abandoned barium oxide mine, just before reaching the crossroads that, to the right, takes us to the top of the mountain. From here, the itinerary follows the red and white markings of the GR 171 to Prades.
Path to La Baltasana
Itinerary Start Direction
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View over the Conca de Barberà
A forest island full of biodiversity
The combination of altitude, latitude and climate makes for a surprising biodiversity in certain areas. Climatic changes throughout the history of the planet have caused species to move farther north or farther
south depending on their basic needs for life. Likewise, the characteristics imposed by the altitude in mountainous areas have caused some places to become a type of refuge, islands if you like, for species that have disappeared from the surrounding territories. This is the case of the Prades Mountains where we find, for example, the
last redoubt in Catalonia of the Quercus pyrenaica, a type of oak mainly found in Atlantic regions. In the woods on the slopes of the Tossal de la Baltasana this tree grows harmoniously with holm oaks, red pines, holly trees, etc. giving rise to places of great beauty and creating unusual forest environments for these latitudes so close to the sea.
Summit of the Tossal de la Baltasana
PR
PR
The view from the 1,202 metre-high Tossal de la Baltasana is magnificent, surrounded as it is by a series of mountains that make up the area known as the Prades Mountains, with the Montsant mountain appearing almost within touching distance. On a clear day you can see from one side of Catalonia to the other, from the mountains of Els Ports to the Pyrenees.
GR 17 1
The path down to Prades starts right at the top of La Baltasana, passing by the weathervane that day after day ensures the message of “peace” written in the winds is spread silently over the land.
Recommendations: The town of Prades, capital of the old county of the same name and heart of the Prades mountains, is well worth spending some time in to explore its picturesque streets. GR 171
Quercus pyrenaica Pyrenean oak
Further information: You can get a small leaflet about the Tossal de la Baltasana as a nature trail and another general brochure on walks in the area from the Prades Town Council (977 868 302).
Maps: Institut Cartogràfic de Catalunya (ICC)
Scale: 1:50.000
Description of the itinerary Our itinerary begins at a hairpin bend just below Capafonts, on the road from Mont-ral. A signpost indicates the path to Font (spring) de la Llúdriga, the source of the River Brugent. From Font de la Llúdriga we retrace our steps a few metres to take a path that goes up the mountain to the cave of Les Gralles, one of the most captivating spots in these mountains. It is an enormous cave, almost like an auditorium, that creates an atmosphere of grandeur while at the same time being intimate – a place difficult to compare with any other.
Whimsical Games
Mountains of Prades
10
of Water and Stone From Capafonts to the Cova de la Grallera and the Roca Foradada
We also have to retrace part of the route to continue climbing up the valley and then make a diversion from the main path to turn off to the right and climb to the Pont de Goi to see one of nature’s whims. Eventually we arrive at the top of Els Motllats, a wide plateau of gently undulating terrain where aromatic plants cling to the layer of topsoil before taking root and turning this uncultivated land into a carpet of flowers and aromas every springtime.
La Llúdriga Valley
Itinerary Start
The route is flat as far as Font Nova, from where it heads towards the Barranc (gully) de la Pixera, passing close by the Cova (cave) del Grèvol. A little farther down it crosses below the remarkable Roca Foradada (“Holed Rock”) and continues descending towards Capafonts, following the ancient paths of woodchoppers and charcoal makers.
Capafonts
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La Llúdriga Spring
La Llúdriga Valley
An immense stone sponge
Els Motllats is a plateau of more than 800 hectares between La Mussara and Prades. The calcareous rock it consists of is easily eroded by rainwater that dissolves the calcium carbonates, transforming this apparently
compact rock into a veritable sieve. When it rains, the water runs through the fissures and holes to form real underground rivers that descend through the darkness until they come to layers of clay or impermeable rocks. In this way an extremely valuable aquifer is formed that acts as a store and a regulator of the water
that, for the rest of the year, feeds the numerous springs of the area. The name Capafonts probably derives from Capitum fontium, which translates as “head of springs”. The village is hidden away at the centre of an amphitheatre of mountains. On the summit of a hill surrounded by cultivated fields and nature, it is an
inseparable part of a harmonious landscape of great beauty.
Recommendations: The walk as far as the Font de la Llúdriga alone is lovely, although it is worth continuing to include the spectacular Les Gralles cave. To do the whole round trip you will need practically all day. Salamandra salamandra Salamander
Further Information: Capafonts Tourism Board (977 868 204, www.capafonts.com).
Maps: Institut Cartogràfic de Catalunya (ICC)
Scale: 1:50.000
Description of the itinerary We can start our walk at the monastery itself, following the red and white markers of the GR 171-4 towards Les Masies. After less than 1.5 km we leave the road to take the forest track of La Pena (the Latin word for “rock”), off to the right. After some 350 metres the itinerary leaves the track to continue straight on, following the GR along the old path to the Escolta quarry, where we can still see the scars made by the floods of 1994.
The Depth
Mountains of Prades
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of the Mediterranean Woodland
Poblet
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The Colom Way
The woods of the monks of St. Benet This is the most emblematic of the woodland areas in Tarragona province. To be sure, there are other woods of considerable natural value, but the history and the current reality of the Forest of Poblet are linked to those of the
most important Cistercian monastery on the Iberian Peninsula. Probably the long-term vision of the monastic interests was a key factor in guaranteeing a sustainable exploitation of the woods for many centuries. With the Disentailment, these lands passed into the hands of the State and we should remember that in th th the 19 and early 20 century,
forestry engineers were the pioneer conservationists in Spain. The fact that more good choices than bad ones were made means that today we can enjoy a Mediterranean woodland of great beauty, with communities of common oak, holm oak, and pine and the trails used by charcoal makers that invite us to come into intimate contact with the soul of the forest.
La Pena Holm-oak Wood
Itinerary
1 17
sta
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Abat Siscar Spring
GR
We come down the same way and take up the track again. On the outside of the first bend to the right we leave the GR and we continue along the Senda del Colom that, after an unforgettable detour, comes back to the track. Shortly after that, when we come to a fork, we take an overgrown path with a chain across it that leads us back to the GR.
Tarragona ura
Monastery of Poblet
We return to the track and, after passing the Casa Forestal, an old farm belonging to the monastery, we arrive at the Font (spring) del Deport, where we pick up a trail that goes up to the Mirador (viewpoint) de la Pena.
From Poblet to the Mirador de la Pena via l’Alzinar
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Next, the path enters the woods and the beauty of the oaks begins to show its presence. This path was used, among other things, to bring down the snow that was kept in the La Pena cold store, still visible and impressive for the size of its cavity (it was later used to build quarters of several floors for the forest guards).
GR
Start
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Direction GR GR
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Recommendations: A visit to the Monastery of Poblet is essential. Visiting times: 10 – 12.30, 15 – 17.30 (18 hrs in summer). Further information: Poblet-Vimbodí Tourist Office (977 871 247 www.concadebarbera.info www.vimbodi.altanet.org), Geneta geneta Genet
L’Espluga de Francolí Tourist Office (977 871 220 www.espluga.altanet.org).
GR
117
Maps: Institut Cartogràfic de Catalunya (ICC)
4
Scale: 1:50.000
Description of the itinerary Our trip starts at the new church of St. Miquel, located at the foot of the Collet (small hill) del Montmell, just above the forest recreational area of Montmell. To get there we have to take the road that, a little before it reaches La Juncosa de Montmell, indicates the recreational area. th
In the 16 century, the new church, now in ruins, was replaced as parish church by the small Romanesque church set against the rocks farther up. The church was the meeting point for the people from all the farms in the area. From the apse there is a path that leads to the Font (spring) del Montmell, located in a nook among some poplars.
Old church of St. Miquel del Montmell
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Reconquered Territories
Coastal Mountains
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El Montmell, the Churches of Sant Miquel, the Castle and La Talaia
From behind the apse a path leads to the Collet del Castellot. From here, following the line of the ridge to the left, after a few minutes we reach the ruins of Montmell castle, an archetype of rock-built castles and a scene of desolate beauty. The plains of the Camp of Tarragona and the Penedès spread out busily and noisily at its foot.
La Juncosa de Montmell
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Torrossolla Holm-Oak Wood
Places of silence and serenity In the centuries when Catalonia was being built, these were frontier lands. El Montmell was the first foothold of the Counts of Barcelona in the Camp of Tarragona, during the second half th of the 10 century. On the other side of the River Gaià was the
territory ruled by the Saracens. They were, without a doubt, difficult lands that courageous men, or those with nothing to lose, won over hill by hill, building castle after castle, church after church. Following the Christian reconquest, the population was organized on the basis of small villages and isolated farms. Within the municipal boundaries of El Montmell alone
The old church of St. Miquel appears to date from the 10 century. To get up to it we have to take a path that starts a little lower down from the new church. Its construction, in the middle of the intimidating slope that protects it, even taking advantage of the rock itself as a wall, gives it a special character that provides us with a good idea of the harshness of the times in which it was built.
there were 116 farms (1.6 per square kilometre), although the progressive rural exodus from the area has since meant that almost all of them have been abandoned. Today, in addition to its historical heritage, the area has places of rare harmony and beauty, valleys where vineyards combine with forests – spots where silence and serenity reign.
Bubo bubo Eagle owl
Winter heather
Nook of the Montmell Spring
Itinerary Start Direction
Going back down the hill and keeping to the ridge in a northeasterly direction, we arrive at the culmination of the Montmell Mountains, the Talaia or, as it is sometimes called, the Puig de la Dent (861 m). The views from here are simply marvellous.
Recommendations: A few kilometres from Montmell, on the banks of the River Gaià, is the Cistercian monastery of Santes Creus that, together with Poblet, became one of the moving forces behind the colonization of these territories of Catalunya Nova. Visiting times: 10 – 13.30, 15 – 16.30. Closed Mondays. Further information: Aiguamúrcia Tourist Office (977 638 301), Santes Creus (977 638 329).
Maps: Institut Cartogràfic de Catalunya (ICC)
Scale: 1:50.000
Recommendations and General Information
Hiking Bibliography
These itineraries are designed for those who enjoy walking in the countryside, without being so difficult as to require the skills and fitness of the specialist hiker.
• El Montsant, Antoni Cabré, Cossetània Edicions, 1999. • Per les serres del mestral (I), Antoni Cabré, Cossetània Edicions, 2000. • Per les serres del mestral (II), Antoni Cabré, Cossetània Edicions, 2000. • Muntanyes de Prades, paisatge i fauna, Màrius Domingo and Antoni Borau, Cossetània Edicions, 1998. • Muntanyes de Prades. Excursions naturals, Màrius Domingo de Pedro. Cossetània Edicions, 2000. • Serra del Montsant. Guia Itinerària, Rafael Ferrer, Centre de Lectura de Reus, 1999. • D’excursió. Les rutes de l’espai De Vacances de TV3, Griselda Guiteras and Mònica Huguet, Pòrtic, 1999. • Paths of Mediterrània, 10 itineraries on foot and by bicycle, Rafael LópezMonné, published by the tourism boards of Hospitalet de l’Infant (977 823 328), Ametlla (977 456 477) and Ampolla (977 460 018), 1998. In Catalan, Spanish, English, German, French and Dutch. • Els castells del Gaià, Marina Miquel, Josep Santesmases and Dolors Saumell, Cossetània Edicions, 1999. • A peu pel massís del Port, Vicent Pellicer, Cossetània Edicions, 2000. • L’Alt Gaià, entre la Segarra i el Camp, Ignasi Planas de Martí, Cossetània Edicions, 1999. • El Port, 40 rutes de senderisme, Joan and Josep Tiron and Mauro Ortiz, Editorial Piolet, 1998. • Itinerari per l’Alzinar de la Pena, Centre Excursionista de l’Espluga de Francolí. • La Capçalera del riu Brugent. Itinerari de natura autoguiat, by the Escola de Natura Cel Rogent and published by the Town Council of Capafonts (977 86 80 49), 2000. • Senders de Gran Recorregut GR 7, GR 171, GR 172 and GR 174, Senders de Catalunya and FEEC, 1998 (includes an English translation).
The timing of the itineraries is based on a pleasant walking speed, without taking into account any stops on the way. You should bear in mind that normally we spend the same amount of time resting, enjoying the view, eating, etc., as we do walking. You should wear good shoes and suitable clothing for the time of year. Remember that there can often be a big difference in temperature between the coast and the inland mountain areas. In summer the heat can be very intense and it is a good idea to start off early in the morning to avoid the midday sun. Don’t forget to wear a hat and take water with you. In winter, the occasional fall of snow is possible and when there is a mistral wind, the temperature can drop sharply. The risk of forest fires is extremely high in the Mediterranean and it is strictly forbidden to light any kind of fire. It is a good idea to bring some pruning shears with you so that you can help keep some of the more hidden pathways passable. The GR and PR signposted footpaths are maintained on a voluntary basis by hikers under the coordination and responsibility of the Catalan Federation of Hiking Associations (FEEC). Further information: www.feec.es At InfoSender you can find more information about the Catalan footpath network: www.euro-senders.com We shall be pleased to hear your opinions, comments, advice, criticism or appreciation of the itineraries and the information given here and also of any experiences you have in following them. Please help us to correct any inaccuracies and to improve future editions. You can contact us at: costadaurada@turisme.altanet.org or by post at the Patronat de Turisme de la Diputació de Tarragona, Passeig Torroja s.n., 43007 Tarragona. Surroundings of St. Gregori Hermitage, Falset
Information about tourism services on the Costa Daurada For the latest information on accommodation, restaurants, activities, guides, etc. and to request other brochures, specific information or a general map of the Costa Daurada, please contact: www.costadaurada.info costadaurada@turisme.altanet.org