C&TH Great British & Irish Hotels - 2023/24

GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

Yasmin and Amber Le Bon wear Raindance

THE LIST

Editor’s LETTER

can hardly believe that a decade has sped by since we launched our rst Great British & Irish Hotels guide. Back in 2013 Country & Town House’s editor, Lucy Cleland, and publisher, Jeremy Isaac, realised that there was no annual, personally curated compendium of Britain’s best hotels and inns and asked me, as a longstanding hotel critic, to choose them. It’s been a pleasure to showcase my favourite places, especially as each edition has looked (thanks to creative director Parm Bhamra) so stunning and tantalising.

What a decade it’s been. With the pandemic nally behind us, the hospitality industry is able to focus on another huge challenge: that of climate change and the urgent need for sustainability. is year, we have launched our rst award, in partnership with EV marque Polestar, celebrating Britain’s most sustainable hotel. Read about the deserving winner, and a further ve particularly impressive contenders, on page 18.

To celebrate our tenth birthday, we asked ten friends of Country & Town House to share their favourite hotels. Among the varied choices, eo Fennell’s memories of Nansidwell House sums up the streak of glorious Fawltyesque eccentricity that has long been a feature of British hotelkeeping. In other features, Olivia Emily investigates the hotels putting accessibility rst, with luxurious results (p36); and I throw the spotlight on London, and why its hospitality star still burns the brightest (p84).

Our introductions to each region feature once more the winners of the Landscape Photography of the Year Awards, evocative images that represent the regions of the British Isles. And this year we ll the guide with useful curated lists of fun categories, such as family-owned hotels (p122); hotels that have featured on the silver screen (p142); and hotels with fabulous spas (p96). We also include, as ever, a useful selection of gorgeous private houses to rent, perfect for friends or family (from page 178).

Once again, I owe a huge debt of gratitude to writers Emma Love and Harriet Compston and to the entire talented team at Country & Town House. I do hope you enjoy this special tenth edition of our guide as much as we have enjoyed creating it.

Frozen Heart by Jethro Stebbings (Cornwall).

LPOTYA: Collection 15 (Ilex Press, £35); The Retreat at Elcot Park; The Artist Residence, Bristol; The Gilpin

CONTRIBUTORS

Favourite UK or Irish holiday destination? Scotland’s wilderness is as compelling to me as travelling to a far-flung destination. I absolutely love exploring close to home, to undertouristed destinations – try the beaches of Wales rather than Devon and Cornwall in peak season. A hidden cultural gem you love? The David Hockney artworks in the 1853 Gallery at Salts Mill in Saltaire drew me to one of the most special places I’ve ever visited. The Grade II-listed mill building started as a Victorian factory and now this little town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Favourite local/regional food? The world-class curries and bagels of Brick Lane, the Caribbean specialities of Notting Hill, Portuguese pasteis de natas at Lisboa off Portobello, Ethiopian coffee at Shepherd’s Bush Market.

Favourite UK or Irish holiday destination? The Causeway Coast in Northern Ireland. I spent some much time there as a child. The scenery is beautiful and beaches like Castlerock in County Londonderry are a great place to go when the weather is nice. My favourite time to visit is during the North West 200 week to watch the road racing.

A hidden cultural gem you love? If you’re visiting Ulster then a trip to Joey’s Bar in Ballymoney is must. It’s a bit of a Mecca for motorcycle racing fans.

Favourite restaurant? For a special occasions L’Enclume in Cartmel. We always rent the same little boat house on Ullswater to stay at for the weekend.

Favourite local/regional food? Irish soda farls. Preferably homemade by my late father.

OLIVIA EMILY

Favourite UK or Irish holiday destination? Whitby: it’s got that lovely British seaside feel, fish and chips, old winding cobbled streets, and it’s home to the gorgeous ruined abbey that inspired Dracula. What more could you want?

Hidden cultural gem you love? I’m a sucker for a canal or riverside walk. I love living close to Regent’s Canal, but wherever you are in the UK, the waterside transports you to another lovely, leafy world.

Favourite restaurant? No restaurant has ever topped Midsummer House in Cambridge for me. It’s so peaceful and homely, yet fresh and innovative. And delicious, of course.

Favourite local or regional food? Yorkshire puddings. As a Yorkshire lass, it has been my life’s mission (and greatest accomplishment) to make the perfect Yorkshire.

JULIET KINSMAN LISA YOUNG CHRIS KENNEDY LOOKING

Favourite UK or Irish holiday destination? I love the spectacular south coast, walking sailing or driving, because of the spectacular open landscapes and sea views, coastal farmland and ancient and quaint villages where friendly folk live. Hidden cultural gem you love? I love the village of Corfe Castle on the Isle of Purbeck. The castle ruins dominate the small village and inspired Enid Blyton. Favourite restaurant? I really enjoy The Pig – on the Beach near to where I live, not only for the locally sourced food, but for the views across the bay onto the chalky white Old Harry Rocks.

Favourite local or regional food? My favourite food is the locally sourced fresh fish, crab and seafood caught off the Dorset coast, plucked straight from the sea, cooked and plated within an hour of catching... tasty.

Sustainable hotels judge, p18

The Inclusion Revolution, p36

Captured Le Manoir, p18

A Greener Side of Scotland, p160

GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

FIONA DUNCAN EDITOR

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR LUCY CLELAND

EDITOR-AT-LARGE ALICE B-B

ASSOCIATE EDITOR CHARLOTTE METCALF

MANAGING EDITOR AMY WAKEHAM

FEATURES ASSISTANT & SUB EDITOR TESSA DUNTHORNE

SUB EDITORS KATIE BAMBER & RUBY FEATHERSTONE

FASHION DIRECTOR NICOLE SMALLWOOD

BEAUTY DIRECTOR NATHALIE ELENI

INTERIORS DIRECTOR CAROLE ANNETT

CULTURE EDITOR ED VAIZEY

EXECUTIVE RETAIL EDITOR MARIELLA TANDY

SUSTAINABILITY EDITOR LISA GRAINGER

PROPERTY EDITOR ANNA TYZACK

MOTORING EDITOR JEREMY TAYLOR

ONLINE CONTENT DIRECTOR REBECCA COX

DEPUTY ONLINE EDITOR ELLIE SMITH

ONLINE WRITERS CHARLIE COLVILLE, OLIVIA EMILY

ONLINE ASSISTANT MARTHA DAVIES

SOCIAL MEDIA EXECUTIVE ZOEY PHOON

CREATIVE & PRODUCTION DIRECTOR PARM BHAMRA

PRODUCTION DESIGNER MIA BIAGIONI

FILMMAKER TRACER ITAL

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER ELLIE RIX

HEAD OF FASHION EMMA MARSH

ACCOUNT DIRECTORS PANDORA LEWIS, SERENA KNIGHT

DIGITAL COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR ADAM DEAN

ACCOUNT MANAGER SABRINA RAVEN

SENIOR DIGITAL SALES EXE CUTIVE AISLING WHITE

SALES SUPPORT, OFFICE & JOINT B-CORP PROJECT MANAGER XA RODGER

TECHNICAL DIRECTOR MARK PEARSON

FINANCE DIRECTOR GARETH MORRIS

FINANCE CONTROLLER LAUREN HARTLEY

FINANCE ADMINISTRATOR RIA HARRISON

HUMAN RESOURCES CONSULTANT ZOE JONES

PROPERTY & MARKETING

ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR AND B CORP PROJECT MANAGER GEMMA COWLEY

CHIEF COMMERCIAL OFFICER TIA GRAHAM

CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER JAMES THROWER

MANAGING DIRECTOR JEREMY ISAAC

THE EDITOR editorial@countryandtownhouse.co.uk

FASHION fashion@countryandtownhouse.co.uk

ADVERTISING advertising@countryandtownhouse.co.uk

PROPERTY ADVERTISING property@countryandtownhouse.co.uk

ACCOUNTS accounts@countryandtownhouse.co.uk

SUBSCRIPTIONS subscribe@countryandtownhouse.co.uk

COUNTRY & TOWN HOUSE is a bi-monthly magazine distributed to AB homes in Barnes, Battersea, Bayswater, Belgravia, Brook Green, Chelsea, Chiswick, Clapham, Coombe, Fulham, Holland Park, Kensington, Knightsbridge, Marylebone, Mayfair, Notting Hill, Pimlico, South Kensington, Wandsworth and Wimbledon, as well as being available from leading country and London estate agents. It is also on sale at selected WHSmith, Waitrose, Marks & Spencer and Sainsbury’s stores and independent newsagents nationwide. It has an estimated readership of 150,000. It is available on subscription in the UK for £29.99 per annum. To subscribe online, iPad, iPhone and android all for only £24.99 visit: exacteditions.com/read/countrytownhouse. For subscription enquiries, please call 020 7384 9011 or email subscribe@countryandtownhouse.co.uk. It is published by Country & Town House Ltd, Studio 2, Chelsea Gate Studios, 115 Harwood Road, London SW6 4QL (tel: 020 7384 9011). Registered number 576850 England and Wales. Printed in the UK by Precision Colour Printing Ltd, Telford. Paper supplied by Gerald Judd. Distribution by Letterbox. Copyright © 2022 Country & Town House Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Materials are accepted on the understanding that no liability is incurred for safe custody. The publisher cannot be responsible for unsolicited material. All prices are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change. While every care is taken to ensure information is correct at time of going to press, it is subject to change, and C&TH Ltd. takes no responsibility for omissions or errors.

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LIGHT THE CANDLES

To celebrate GB&IH’s tenth birthday, we asked ten friends of C&TH to share their favourite hotels – and the unforgettable memories that go with them

CAROL BAMFORD

‘Lime Wood feels like a very special place to stay. It’s somewhere you can go to escape from the rest of the world; to truly disconnect and immerse yourself in nature. e New Forest is such a storied and breathtaking part of the country – wild and expansive with an array of vastly di ering landscapes – and I think Lime Wood has captured that beauty and used it to inspire and guide a stay at a hotel that feels deeply luxurious yet evokes ease and relaxation.’

‘My worst stay was the smart hotel in Wales that proudly announced its five star service. I arrived one minute late for its speciality, the afternoon tea, and the computer said “no”. In contrast, THE PIG in Brockenhurst. Arrived in the early hours after a night shoot. Next day, I hadn’t asked for a light tap on the door at noon, nor a boiled egg, but both were perfectly timed.’

‘After we won World’s Best Bar with Lyaness, we threw a massive party at SEA CONTAINERS. When we’d won this in the past, we didn’t get the chance to celebrate with the team, so this time round, we shut the space, packed the bar with champagne, canned cocktails from our pals at Whitebox, and threw a house party. We’ve done plenty of parties, but to be able to have everyone together, and to celebrate such an important milestone with our nearest and dearest was perfect. We forgot to order pizzas, so things inevitably got very loose.’

HUGH BONNEVILLE ACTOR

FOUNDER OF DAYLESFORD AND BAMFORD

RYAN ‘MR LYAN’ CHETIYAWARDANA BAR FOUNDER AND MIXOLOGIST

ANYA HINDMARCH

DESIGNER & BRAND FOUNDER

THOMASINA MIERS

CHEF, RESTAURATEUR, AUTHOR

‘My memories of Lucknam Park are sun-soaked and nostalgic. I took my eldest who was in the midst of tween angst; there was something about that glorious setting, being looked after by the wonderful team, fed delicious food, pampered, spoiled, cosseted; it was so good for us. Great hotels do that, they transport you far away from the daily grind.’

OLIVIA VON HALLE

‘I hosted my 30th birthday party at THE SAVOY, where my circle drank the bar dry, moving swiftly onto “shots” – they encouraged our host waiter to get involved. He unfortunately downed five shots in quick succession and then had to be escorted home by his boss...’

‘In lockdown, I was nine months pregnant and so fed up, so my husand and I went o to spend a couple of nights away from our two other children at the Connaught. Anyone with kids will know how horribly ruled you are by the routine so my husband and I decided to eat when we were hungry, sleep when we were tired and not worry at all about timings. ere were only six people staying there, and the restaurants and bars were shut but we could order room service. We had a bath all morning, slept all afternoon and ate dinner at 4am. e same man who had let us in delivered all our drinks and room service and seemed to be running the whole hotel single-handed. We loved every minute of it.’

JAMIE GILL

FOUNDER OF THE OUTSIDER’S PERSPECTIVE

‘What’s not to love about checking into CLARIDGE’S, even when you live in London? It makes you see your city afresh and there is nothing more spoiling than walking across that black and white floor and up that sweeping staircase.’

FASHION DESIGNER

AMELIA WINDSOR MODEL

‘My favourite hotel memory is staying at THE SWAN in Southwold in August, and going for a swim in the sea in the morning before breakfast – it was the most beautifully still and sunny morning. True bliss.’

SVEN HANSON BRITTS

CHEF

‘After months of lockdowns, isolating and a severe worry that hospitality would never return, May 2021 saw hotels re-open again. My wife Kae and I had booked dinner and a much-needed night away at Chiltern Firehouse on the very rst night of restrictions being lifted. We didn’t have high hopes for the most incredible or memorable experience, we were just really looking forward to someone else doing the washing up. I mean, how can anyone be expected to be brilliant, ve star or remarkable after not doing something for two years? Well, we were so completely wrong. We were knocked o our feet with the most incredible hospitality, kindness and genuine connection from the moment we walked to the front gate. We dined on incredible food, stayed in the most beautiful, pristine room and even visited a lookout tower for a night cap and dessert. We woke up late and were delivered even more champagne with breakfast. It was that moment I knew hospitality was never going to die, it never could, the people that make up our industry would never let that happen.’

THEO FENNELL JEWELLERY DESIGNER

‘My favourite hotel was Nansidwell House, an extraordinary and beautiful country-house hotel in Cornwall. It was run by the most adorable couple, Jamie and Felicity, that I had known for years. Jamie was adorable and side-splittingly funny but made Basil Fawlty appear the soul of reason.

Something ludicrous always happened whenever we stayed there, as unsuspecting guests were instantly given nicknames, o ered exotic cocktails at ten in the morning or treated to Jamie walking into the dining room and announcing that it was o cial trousers down day and drop his own and demand all the diners, male and female should do the same.

ese eccentricities were considered tame by those of us that who had known him in his pre-hotelier days and we took these things in our stride. Unfortunately, some of the more traditional guests were not at all prepared for this sort of outlandish and unexpected behaviour and took it quite badly.

We arrived there one late afternoon to see Jamie in a sort of half-drag involving a gingham apron and mop hat and clutching a rattling cocktail shaker berating a very anaemic looking couple outside a Volvo in the drive.

“If you didn’t ght, sir, you have no right to complain,” Jamie was shouting at this wire-rim bespectacled man in a fawn raincoat.

To give him his due the man stood his ground as his wife plucked at his sleeve and tried to usher him into the car.

“Go, sir,” Jamie made huge swooping motions with the cocktail shaker, “and never return. How dare you complain about our hygiene. Go back to your antiseptic little house and never come here again. Tell your little friends not to come here either.”

“I merely said…,” stammered the man as he and his wife got into the Volvo and began their bewildered trip.

‘Everything all right?’ I asked Jamie.

“ e cheek of the man,” he answered.

“What was wrong?” I said.

“He complained about the state of the bath.”

“And…?”I looked quizzically at him.

“A few hairs and a tennis ball in the bath and a couple of muddy pawmarks, I mean I ask you,” he answered, shaking his head. “Bloody perfectionists.” And we wandered in for a cocktail. n

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GREEN STARS ALL ROUND

CELEBRATING GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND’S MOST SUSTAINABLE HOTELS

We invited all British and Irish hotels to enter our inaugural sustainability in places to stay award, in partnership with EV marque Polestar, and the results are in. How rewarding, says LUCY CLELAND

Polestar is leading the way in EV technology and partnered with Country & Town House to shine a light on Britain and Ireland’s most sustainable hotels like Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, a Belmond Hotel

No one said sustainability was easy. But launching this award not only to nd a hotel that delivers both in terms of sustainability but also in what a great hotel should be – impeccable service, genuine hospitality and undeniable soul – has been immensely rewarding.

It has to be accepted that perfection in this area is challenging – most of the very bones of our vaunted hotels, whether city icons or country-house treasures, can make it hard to have zero carbon impact. Old listed buildings, under strict regulations, make the additions of solar panels or double glazing impossible, for example. But the hotels we celebrate here – from old to new, large to small, expensive to accessibly

priced – are making remarkable strides and creating blueprints that others should take note of, learn from and then use to progress their own journeys to doing better. For it is only in scaling up the good stu and dialling down the bad that we have a chance of enjoying these hotels – or any others for that matter – long into the future.

WHAT WERE WE LOOKING FOR?

Sustainability nowadays is about setting and tracking veri able carbon emission reduction targets; it’s about charity, philanthropy, and supporting your local community; it’s about protecting and regenerating nature and biodiversity; it’s about fair pay for sta . It’s about waste reduction (from no land ll

policies and composting to renewable energy and insulated buildings); it’s about, as far as possible, making a place that welcomes everybody (through consideration of those with both physical and mental needs). It’s also about being truly creative and inventive (such as making caramel out of local cheese by-product like they do at e Pig hotels, for example) and communicating all this transparently.

All this, plus creating a fantastic place to stay with hospitality at its heart. It is no easy task, but our formidable judging panel did nd a winner – though, we admit, it was very close and there were, encouragingly, plenty of positive things to say about many other hotels who didn’t make our nal six. But, judging demands rigour and consensus, so here we go…

THE JUDGING PANEL

FIONA DUNCAN

GB&IH’s editor, Fiona, has been writing about hotels for nearly 40 years; there’s little she doesn’t know about what makes an unmistakeably good place to stay.

JULIET KINSMAN

Juliet is a sustainability journalist, author broadcaster and consultant. She also runs purpose-led nonprofit communications consultancy Bouteco.

LISA GRAINGER

Times Luxx’s travel editor, Lisa, is a multi-award-winning journalist and a regular face on panels about conservation and philanthropic travel.

Petra is Polestar’s Inclusion Lead, as well as being part of the Sustainability team. She has previously worked with sustainability and human rights issues.

LUCY CLELAND

The Editorial director of Country & Town House has made it her mission to bring sustainability front and centre of every conversation we have about luxury.

PETRA PETTERSSON

Le Manoir takes ‘growing your own’ to new levels. A tour round its staggeringly impressive gardens is one for the bucket list

THE WINNER Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons

‘Le Manoir is committed to net zero by 2030, it has a zero waste to land ll policy and has carefully considered its emissions, including scope 3 [emissions that are not produced by the hotel itself] and the indirect e ects along its supply chain,’ says Petra, who studied the entries purely from the hard facts of what they were doing sustainably. On this alone, she rated Le Manoir top in her scoring system. ‘Plus, it has excellent supplier management and a seasonal menu.’

Le Manoir, with its two-Michelin-starred restaurant, e Raymond Blanc Cookery School and e Raymond Blanc Gardening School was, of course, born in 1991 from Chef-Patron Raymond Blanc OBE’s ethos around food seasonality, foraging, growing your own and avoiding waste. Other suppliers (99 percent of which are UK-based with an aim for them to be within a 50-mile radius) must have a recognisable certi cation from a third party certi er. Since 2012, Raymond has been president of the Sustainable Restaurant Association helping oversee a huge expansion in the SRA’s membership, and driving interest in food sustainability all over the world.

In its globally renowned gardens, it grows 250 di erent Soil Association-approved organic varieties of herbs and vegetables and have 2,500 heritage varieties of fruit trees in the orchard. What’s pleasing is that even if you can’t a ord the steep price of a stay (rooms start from £860 per night), you can book into the restaurant, e Raymond Blanc Cookery School or e Raymond Blanc Gardening School to get a tour of the gardens to see the sustainability and biodiversity work at rst hand. To help guests get there, Le Manoir has teamed up with Oxfordshire County Council to improve and re-introduce a local bus service to the hotel whether it’s for work or visiting. is alone has reduced combined

carbon emissions, saving around 1,932kg of CO2 and over 700 litres of fuel per week.

Sta wellbeing is a huge part of what it means to be a good leader in sustainability. At Le Manoir, 85 percent of sta are locals (the other 15 having relocated from other parts of the UK), 100 percent are paid over the Living Wage and 95 percent are full time, meaning there is job security, wage equality and sta don’t have travel far to work, which not only reduces emissions but ensures money is spent within the local community. Training sta in sustainability practices is headed up by Rhodri William, a dedicated facilities, environmental and sustainability manager, who expects every member of sta to have received this training by the end of 2023.

While it is challenging for a 15th century manor to be sustainable, its future build plans will have a quali ed BREEAM assessor auditing the building in accordance with the assessment criteria to achieve an ‘outstanding’ BREAAM rating. And where it can reduce carbon emissions it does. For example, in 2019, it installed 500 LED lights, which reduced its carbon emissions by 11,768 tonnes annually. Using sustainability software and scoring platform, Zellar, Le Manoir can not only tracks and measures its good progress but also communicates it internally and with the outside world, too.

‘Le Manoir is a wonderful winner,’ says Juliet, ‘for really demonstrating how a high-end heritage hotel can reinvent itself as sustainable in so many ways, interrogating its existing processes and adapting its back of house, while also delivering second-to-none service and making its supplychain processes part of the story. We think it’ll help disrupt the traditional luxury travel sector signi cantly. It is also a really happy hotel, which is often neglected when we talk about hotels.’

Raymond says, ‘For almost 40 years, I have worked hard to share my vision. My mum always taught me well: “Raymond, you shall waste not!” She used everything, nothing ever got thrown away and this is how we work here. My team and I are truly honoured that we have been recognised for our commitment to sustainability.’

A tting statement (and motherly tribute) from the dynamic, charismatic leader of this glorious hotel that delivers so much on every front. We look forward to it continuing its journey to net zero by 2030, but also to its warm welcome, exquisite food and celebratory feel. It’s a place to save your pennies up for – and savour every second.

belmond.com

‘Le Manoir is a wonderful WINNER for really demonstrating how a HIGH-END HOTEL can reinvent itself as SUSTAINABLE in so many ways, INTERROGATING its existing processes and adapting its back of house’

Le Manoir was born from Raymond Blanc’s (left) passion for seasonal eating, foraging and avoiding waste at all cost. His team – including Jose Dinis, (right), Suzanne Bladon (below) and executive head chef Luke Selby, with Raymond (below right) all share the vision of their founder

WE ALSO LOVED...

These places to stay also scored high in the sustainability stakes

Although perfection is too high a bar to attain at the moment, we have been thrilled to pinpoint the trailblazers who are making the right changes and commitments and shouting about them. More importantly, as guests, we have the power to choose where we want to stay and spend our money, so it’s important and empowering for us to support the hotels who are doing it best – for their sta , for their guests, for their community and for our planet. ese are the places that do good –and make us feel good too. Win-win.

1

THE PIGS (HOME GROWN HOTELS), VARIOUS

‘ e Pigs are forerunners in sustainable hotels and they’re very supportive of their local communities,’ says Fiona. ‘Robin Hutson is a champion of transparency in food supply and the rights of hospitality workers,’ adds Lisa. ‘He did a great job rallying the government during Covid to protect hospitality sta .’

ere is no doubt that e Pigs, which opened its rst hotel in 2011 (there are now eight) had sustainability in their DNA from the o . eir pioneering 25-mile menu concept, plus the fact that they all feature a huge kitchen garden at their heart is testament to this. ey are passionate around their sourcing too (from using second-hand and vintage furniture) to upcycling items, like turning an old walk-in fridge into a mushroom house. thepighotel.com

2

FFOREST, WEST WALES

What makes Fforest stand out is that its glamping accommodation grew from its landscape and natural surrounds, not the other way round. e only of our nalists to have any aspects that are newly built, in the stand-alone domes and cabins – even the Bwthyn pub is an original farm building, rebuilt on the site of a ruin, using locally quarried stone – has ensured that sustainable design has been integrated from the ground up. It’s low impact all the way down to the activities it o ers to its guests – walking, cycling, swimming, canoeing.

‘Fforest brings much needed employment to a deprived area in West Wales,’ says Juliet, ‘ e stylishly revived farmhouse is also a great destination for social celebrations or for team events and corporate away days.’ coldatnight.co.uk

3

WHATLEY MANOR, WILTSHIRE

‘Whatley has been doing sustainability well for a long time,’ says Lisa. ‘It has very good policies around food, energy and amenities and has transformed a historic building to be as sustainable as possible within the bones of a listed building.’

‘We admire the work and passion of Sue Williams, its general manager, who has overseen in-depth transformations throughout the hotel,’ adds Fiona. ese include reducing its energy emissions by 36 percent on gas and electricity since February 2019, achieving Silver accreditation with Earthcheck in September 2022, and employing a full-time Sustainability O cer and a part-time Supply Chain O cer. Keep up the great work. whatleymanor.com

4

KEYTHORPE HALL, LEICESTERSHIRE

For our private house entry, Keythorpe steals the crown, although it’s only been up and running for a year or so. Lisa says it is de nitely one to watch. ‘ e owners Giles Godfrey and Barbara van Tee elen purchased a derelict building and are doing it up slowly and ethically to an impressively high environmental standard,’ she says. ‘Plus, they’re being creative by doing things like growing owers on their land to sell to help fund renovation.’ Once again, the kitchen garden plays a central role in their philosophy, with menus re ecting the seasonal produce available. Being in an ‘unsexy’ part of the country is also hugely appealing, putting Leicestershire on the map for high-end sustainable hospitality. keythorpehall.co.uk

5THE BULL INN, TOTNES

‘ is is a plucky place, with a diverse leader in a seriously climate-aware part of the country,’ says Juliet, who is passionate about the work of founder, Geetie SinghWatson. ‘It is independently owned and has a strong mission around transparency in its food chain powered by managing director Phillipa Hughes,’ she continues.

It operates along its nine ‘No-Bull Rules’, along with the ‘Conscious Compromise’ which sees it constantly analyse all its impact areas around waste and energy, being rigorous in procurement and constantly questioning everything in order to get better in all areas. It’s not shy to communicate it either. It’s a refreshing, gutsy, heartfelt approach and it’s been noticed. Go and support them – the food is fantastic too. bullinntotnes.co.uk n

Frozen Heart by Jethro Stebbings (Cornwall).

£35)

DEVON & CORNWALL

Stories of myths and legends abound in this most compelling of regions. But, from the wind-swept stretches of sand to the heather-strewn moors, the reality is just as brilliant as the fantasy

BOVEY CASTLE DARTMOOR NATIONAL PARK, DEVON

First opened as a hotel and golf resort in 1930 by Great Western Railways, Bovey Castle is set in 275 acres of Devon countryside, surrounded by Dartmoor National Park. Choose from cosy, elegant rooms in the historic manor house or private mews across the courtyard. ere are also three-storey self-catering lodges in the grounds, ideal for families or friends travelling together who want independence while still being able to dip into all the hotel has to o er. is could include watching a complimentary falconry display, collecting eggs from the estate’s chickens or booking in for a massage at the Elan Spa (the lodges come with fully equipped kitchens, openplan living and dining, and housekeeping).

Executive head chef Mark Budd uses fresh ingredients from Devon and the South West to create seasonal menus for one-AA Rosette Smith’s Brasserie (in the summer, sit on the outdoor terrace that overlooks the River Bovey) and three-AA Rosette Great Western Grill, which reopens for dinner in June. Activities available include everything from golf to archery, and from o -road driving to y shing and cider making.

Doubles from £325 +44 (0)1647 445000; boveycastle.com

THE BULL INN

TOTNES, DEVON

is radically ethical pub with rooms at the top of Totnes high street is run with a people and planet rst ethos, and guided by a triumvirate of its own ‘No-Bull Rules’ for how to dine, trade and work in the most eco-minded way possible. at means organic beer and wine alongside simple, seasonal veg-led food (grown not own), day boat sh and ‘mindful meat’ for the daily changing menu in the restaurant. Nine sustainably designed and stylish rooms feature lime plastered walls, reclaimed furniture, reworked vintage fabrics, handmade tiles, organic mattresses and linens, and artisan-made lighting. None of this comes as a surprise when you learn that the owner is Geetie Singh-Watson, who opened the world’s rst o cial organic pub, e Duke of Cambridge, in Islington in 1998. For families, there is e Albatross, a four-bedroom, self-catering apartment across the road with a private terrace. Plus, there is an event space where all kinds of creative workshops (drawing, watercolours, making with willow), classes and talks are held.

Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1803 640040; bullinntotnes.co.uk

CARY ARMS & SPA BABBACOMBE BEACH, DEVON

Visitors descend a cli lane and dramatic views of the English Riviera unfold. Once ensconced in the cosseting welcome of Cary Arms & Spa – owned by Peter and Lana de Savary– you feel as though you’re in a Mills & Boon romance and Famous Five adventure rolled into one. Its delightful bedrooms, with echoes of New England style, are each supplied with a stick of rock on the snow-white pillows. Eat Devon beef and Lyme Bay lobster in the stone-walled bar, or on pretty terraces that hang over the bay. Bedrooms in the inn are sumptuous and seaside-fresh, while the beach huts and suites are beautiful and contemporary. Nine smart cottages sleep larger groups (including the latest addition, Foxes Walk, a real showstopper), each with their own gardens and sundowner spots. While you wouldn’t usually expect sybaritic luxury at a self-styled ‘Inn on the Beach’, there’s actually a state-ofthe-art spa with a hydrotherapy pool, steam and sauna, and holistic Gaia treatments. Romantic, family friendly, perfect for walkers and dog lovers, there’s something here for everyone.

Doubles from £295

+44 (0)1803 327110; caryarms.co.uk

DITTISHAM HIDEAWAY DITTISHAM, DEVON

For those who like to glamp, rather than camp, Dittisham Hideaway is the answer, with its collection of treehouses, shepherds’ lodges and an American Airstream. Just outside the village of Dittisham, a mile from the River Dart and ten minutes’ drive from Dartmouth, the back-to-nature setting lives up to its name. e only sounds at night are a gently babbling stream and the owls hooting in the trees.

e four cedar-clad treehouses are ideal for families (the welcome hamper has breakfast for the rst morning). New last year, the ve larger-than-usual shepherds’ lodges sit in a wild ower meadow; one has a neighbouring mini children’s hut, kitted out with bunkbeds, next door. e Airstream has been beautifully restored with burnt orange leather seats and a shiny space-like silver ceiling in the sitting area. All accommodation comes with a private deck, wood- red hot tub and BBQ, and the majority is dog-friendly too. When you’re not out exploring, hang out in the communal games barn playing chess or table football.

ere’s also a boules pitch, ping pong and a help-yourself vegetable garden.

From £195 for a Shepherds Lodge or the American Airstream. From £275 for a treehouse. +44 (0)1803 925034; dittishamhideaway.co.uk

DRIFTWOOD

ROSELAND, CORNWALL

ere’s no more fabulous vista than from cli top Driftwood. More Mediterranean than Cornish, it overlooks Gerrans Bay on the Roseland Peninsula and includes seven acres of gardens full of secluded, shady spots that lead to a perfect crescent of private beach. Halfway down is a restored cabin with two bedrooms and a sitting room, a magical place to stay in summer. A wild ower garden is home to bees that produce honey for the restaurant. e house itself, a 1930s building transformed with the aid of dusky blue clapboard, makes the most of the views. Whether relaxing in the bedrooms, drinking on the generous terrace or indulging in a delicious meal in the chic dining room, you’ll want to stay forever. Lunch on the sunny deck overlooking the bay is an absolute delight. Paul and Fiona Robinson opened Driftwood 19 years ago and Fiona’s interior designer skills, plus their hands-on approach and ease with guests, have created a delightful Cornish haven: stylish, seaside-fresh and devoid of pretension.

Doubles from £230 +44 (0)1872 580644; driftwoodhotel.co.uk

THE GURNARD’S HEAD

ZENNOR, CORNWALL

‘It’s about the simple things in life done well,’ say brothers Edmund and Charlie Inkin about their three delightful hostelries, e Gurnard’s Head and e Old Coastguard here in Cornwall and e Felin Fach Gri n in Wales (p35 & 153). Nothing could be closer to the truth nor more perfectly exempli ed than at this sunshine-yellow dining pub with rooms. Set in the wild landscape of Cornwall’s Atlantic coast between artsy St Ives and pretty St Just, its sweeping views stretch over the crashing waves and gorse-covered Penwith moorland, dotted with passing cows. It’s an unpretentious haven where, in the brightly painted bedrooms, you’ll nd luxurious beds, jam jars lled with fresh owers and Roberts radios. Our favourite is spacious Room 8 with its own log-burning stove and terrace. ere are no TVs or phones. But any panic at being cut o quickly gives way to a sense of peace and satisfaction, reinforced by head chef Max Wilson’s divine local and seasonal menu, changed daily according to what’s brought to the back door, be that sh from day boats or vegetables from nearby growers. Doubles from £155; from £235, inc dinner, B&B +44 (0)1736 796928; gurnardshead.co.uk

HOTEL MEUDON

NR FALMOUTH, CORNWALL

Steeped in history thanks to its association with the Fox family, who were in uential in the development of Falmouth in the 19th century, this Cornish hidden gem has nine acres of unique sub-tropical gardens that stretch down to a private beach, Bream Cove. An unspoilt paradise, it’s ideal for swimming, snorkelling, paddleboarding or picking up the South West Coast Path to go hiking. e hotel itself is fresh from an extensive, sympathetic refurbishment: expect contemporary, light- lled rooms with comfy beds, aromatic bath products and gorgeous views (choose from garden, sea or inland) from the balcony or terrace. e restaurant fully re ects its location and heritage, drawing in uences from French classic haute cuisine (Meudon takes its title from the nearby farmhouses built by Napoleonic prisoners of war who were from a village of the same name in France), simple dishes from the 1960s and the fresh herbs and vegetables grown in the garden. Ask for a table by the oor-to-ceiling windows and admire the blooms as you tuck in.

From £189 with £30 dining credit +44 (0)1326 250541; meudon.co.uk

HOUSEL BAY

LIZARD PENINSULA, CORNWALL

e UK’s most southerly hotel, this familyowned coastal retreat is ideal for nature lovers and foodies. Perched on the dramatic Lizard Peninsula cli top in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, it is the perfect bolthole to escape the crowds and soak up the wild, untouched landscape. e 23 restorative bedrooms have spectacular sea and countryside views. e three eating and drinking spots o er seasonal Cornish-led menus, celebrating fresh local produce. Treat yourself to a seven-course tasting menu and stunning vistas at awardwinning Fallow elds, headed up by bright young chef Joseph Fallow eld. Tipples can be found in Marconi’s Bar with its cosy re and kickstart the morning in the sea-facing Terrace. During the day, enjoy sea swimming, coastal walking and simply taking a breath while spotting Atlantic seals, wild ponies and Cornish choughs. e South West Coastal Path and a hidden beach can be accessed straight from the hotel’s garden, plus picturesque Kynance Cove is on the doorstep. ere’s fascinating ora and fauna, too, thanks to the Lizard’s microclimate. e hotel also hosts wellness retreats, making use of its new yoga studio.

Doubles from £115

+ 44 (0)1326 567500; houselbay.com

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The Best… Beach Escapes theLIST

Head to one of these beautiful locations for your next seaside break.

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The Gallivant

WEST SUSSEX

The gloriously wide swathes of Camber Beach can be found just over the road from The Gallivant, a wonderfully thoughtful and considered hotel. Fresh seafood and English sparkling wine are on the menu here, as is a Bamford spa cabin for indulgent treatments, and yoga – both indoors and al fresco. thegallivant.co.uk

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By AMY WAKEHAM

Polurrian On The Lizard

CORNWALL

This historic hotel’s spectacular clifftop setting offers panoramic views over the Lizard peninsula. Polurrian Cove is a mere ten minute stroll away, and if you fancy exploring further afield, then the South West Coast Path can be found at the end of the garden. polurrianhotel.com

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The Old Coastguard

CORNWALL

Charming Mousehole is the perfect place for a family-friendly escape, and The Old Coastguard is situated in the heart of it, with views of the ocean. Potter around the village’s cafes, galleries and ice cream shops, or set up a pitch on the sand in the harbour. oldcoastguardhotel.co.uk

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The Pig – At Harlyn Bay

CORNWALL

Housed in a 15th-century Cornish manor, the most south-westerly of The Pig’s litter is just a short stroll from the Harlyn and Constantine Bay beaches – paradises for surfers both new and experienced. It’s also ten minutes’ drive from Padstow’s famous harbour and restaurants. thepighotel.com

The Harper

NORFOLK

A stone’s throw from the salt marshes of Blakeney Nature Reserve, The Harper is the perfect base from which to explore this wild and beautiful part of Britain. Here, the beaches are wide and golden, tufted with grass and kissed by salty sea breezes. theharper.co.uk

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Seaham Hall

DURHAM

Colourful, characterful Seaham Hall is moments from wild and wonderful Seaham Beach, and the perfect spot for exploring the delights of County Durham. Discover the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Durham city, as well as the beautiful swathes of parkland and nature reserves nearby. seaham-hall.co.uk

7

The Relais Cooden Beach

EAST SUSSEX

Boasting its own private beach, this is a stylish retreat on the Sussex coast, offering a fun-filled beach club in the summer months, and reflective retreat in winter. Book a Seascape Room for uninterrupted views of the English Channel. therelaisretreats.com

9

The Nici

DORSET

On Bournemouth’s West Cliff, The Nici offers spectacular sea views and easy access down to miles of sandy beaches. All 80 of the rooms and suites have been luxuriously recently renovated with flair and a touch of fun, and the South Beach bar and restaurant is a stylish spot for lunch or afternoon tea. thenici.com

The White Hart Inn

ESSEX

A mere 250 yards from the steps to Mersea Island’s Monkey Beach, The White Hart Inn is the ideal location to explore Britain’s most easterly island. A popular holiday destination since Roman times, Mersea has tons to explore: beaches, creeks, boardwalks, oyster beds and more. whitehartinnmersea.co.uk

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Hotel Meudon

CORNWALL

Surrounded by acres of exotic gardens – palm trees aplenty thanks to Falmouth’s mild climate – Hotel Meudon has its own secluded cove to discover. Here you can wild swim, snorkel or paddleboard to your heart’s content. meudon.co.uk

11 The Cary Arms & Spa DEVON

Sheltered Babbacombe Bay in east Devon is the home of the Cary Arms & Spa, a chic coastal escape offering a choice of rooms, suites, cottages and beach huts. There’s plenty more hidden coves to discover along this sun-kissed stretch of coast. caryarms.co.uk

The Victoria at Holkham

NORFOLK

Moments from the golden sands of Holkham Beach (famous for its appearance in many Hollywood films), The Victoria is a traditional, dog-friendly inn with 20 bedrooms. Base yourself here to explore handsome Holkham Hall and the 9,600 acres of the wild and beautiful nature reserve. holkham.co.uk

THE IDLE ROCKS ST MAWES, CORNWALL

e Idle Rocks is an 18-bedroom idyllic coastal retreat located in the picturesque shing village of St Mawes, which was voted the UK’s best seaside town. Set on the harbour wall, o ering spectacular views of the water from its thoughtfully and individually designed bedrooms, the hotel o ers a luxurious escape that is also perfectly placed to explore the natural beauty of the Roseland Peninsula throughout the year. e Reef Knot Retreat treatment room is tucked away on the top oor for a moment of relaxation and rejuvenation with the option to choose from Aromatherapy Associates massages and facials. e awardwinning restaurant is a must-visit and a foodie haven, led by Executive Head Chef Dorian Janmaat. e carefully curated menus highlight the best of Cornwall’s produce, combined with unique and invigorating avour fusions to provide a re ned dining experience. e hotel’s sister property, St Mawes Hotel, is a short walk along the harbour and is equipped with a hidden cinema for dinner and movie nights. Both hotels are also available for private parties and takeovers, ideal for those looking for a unique location to celebrate in Cornwall.

Doubles from £260 +44 (0)1326 270270; idlerocks.com

LEWINNICK LODGE NEWQUAY, CORNWALL

Amid the craggy cli s of Pentire, this family-run foodie bolthole near Newquay started out as servants quarters to nearby Cove House. But, today, under the direction of owners Pete and Jacqui Fair, it’s a cool restaurant with rooms. It’s all about the breath-taking ocean views here, which can be enjoyed from nearly every inch of this lovely lodge. Served in the buzzy cli side restaurant, the exquisite seasonal menu ts right in, celebrating the best of Cornish ingredients with a tasty contemporary twist. Try the Lewinnick sh cake with sweet chilli jam and dressed rocket, followed by the seductive Cornish sea salt and fudge brownie. e 17 bedrooms are uncluttered and serene in Farrow & Ball pastel hues. All come with binoculars to soak up the staggering vistas. Book the super spacious Luxury Double, with its emperor-size bed, free-standing bath, lined with Bramley toiletries, and double windows that bring the outside in. Brought your four-legged friend? en plump for the dog-friendly Headland Double. And don’t forget to check out sister hotel e Plume of Feathers, a 16th century pub with rooms, a short drive away.

Doubles from £269 +44(0)1637 878117; lewinnicklodge.co.uk

THE NARE VERYAN, CORNWALL

Opened in 1989 by Bettye Gray, e Nare is Cornwall’s highest-rated country house hotel. It’s a ve-star country house renowned for its genuine comfort and stunning sea views over Carne Beach on Cornwall’s idyllic south coast. Proprietor Toby Ashworth upholds his grandmother’s vision of warm, traditional hospitality and many returning guests are drawn in by the enveloping kindness, door-to-door chau eur service and the ne food served in the hotel’s two sea-view restaurants. In the splendid, more formal dining room, waitresses dart about in white pinnies and the hors d’oeuvre, ambé and dessert trolleys are on hand. Children are embraced, dogs have their own menus, and there’s an indulgent spa with two pools. From coastal walks to visiting one of the many beautiful gardens, there is plenty to explore nearby. Plus the hotel has a tennis court, an artist in residence who o ers painting lessons to guests, and a classic wooden motor launch, Alice Rose, for guests to spend the day exploring the beautiful Fal and Helford Rivers. A place of great British comfort, perfect for extended families.

Doubles from £396 +44 (0)1872 501111; narehotel.co.uk

THE OLD COASTGUARD MOUSEHOLE, CORNWALL

Of Charles and Edmund Inkin’s collection of e ortlessly laid-back places to stay (see also Felin Fach Gri n and e Gurnard’s Head on p153 & 30), this has the best location: overlooking the sea in the enchanting shing village of Mousehole, noted for its artists, Christmas illuminations and invention of stargazy pie. A hotel since Victorian times, the 14 attractive sea-facing bedrooms have superb beds, Roberts radios, Bramley products, auction room nds and striped curtains (the best come with knockout views from the balcony). Downstairs in the openplan bar and dining room, you’ll tuck into superb dishes showcasing local ingredients, from Tregassow asparagus and dressed Newlyn crab to plaice and cod caught that morning – all cooked by head chef, Danny Garland. Making the most of the vista through picture windows, the sun- lled sitting area runs the length of the ground oor. Lazing there, looking through the palm trees and agapanthus, or reclining on the new sea-facing garden sun terrace, you’ll keep delaying your departure by another hour.

It’s that kind of place.

Doubles from £185; from £265, incl dinner +44 (0)1736 731222; oldcoastguardhotel.co.uk

People often overlook disability but hotels are beginning to get wise –just like the arts. In April 2023, Propel Dance, the UK’s first all-wheelchair professional dance company, performed its reimagined version of The Snow Queen at three venues across the Midlands

THE INCLUSION REVOLUTION

You’ve travelled several hours to your hotel for a welldeserved break. But questions linger: will the room be spacious enough? Will there be a lift, and a restaurant that can accommodate you? Will you feel welcome? For people with disabilities the answer to many of these questions is usually a resounding ‘no’. Not spacious enough, no lift, no restaurant equipped for accessibility – not welcome.

Pierre Mazurier, associate director of sales at London’s Great Scotland Yard Hotel, describes a guest with disabilities who stayed for a whopping 75 nights last year. ‘I made sure I was there when the client arrived. I wanted to ensure everything I said would happen [over the phone] actually happened,’ he says. At the time, Pierre was early in his journey toward total guest inclusion, which stretches beyond wheelchair and mobility accessibility to include anyone with additional needs, from people with hearing and visual impairments to neurodiverse guests; his team has since been fully trained by Inclu, the leading inclusive luxury travel consultant. ‘I remember saying to the front of house team and housekeeping, “ is is the knowledge I have. Take it. Embrace it. Distribute it to your team. We can do it!”’ e guest has rebooked for 2023, occupying one of the property’s 11 accessible rooms, which are equipped with subtle grab rails, luxurious marble wetroom bathrooms, and life-saving provisions like re alarms for guests with hearing impairments. e extra space for wheelchair access could be mistaken for the airy grandeur of a luxury hotel suite.

‘Pierre is the most knowledgeable director of sales in the country when it comes to inclusion,’ says Richard ompson, CEO of Inclu. We’re sitting in Great Scotland Yard’s afternoon tea lounge, sinking into sumptuously soft armchairs and sipping tea. ‘A lot of hotels have accessibility provisions, but the fact they don’t mention it is indicative of where the industry is generally. It’s a huge missed opportunity –and, also, let’s just say, not in line with equality legislation.’ In contrast, it’s only a small scroll down Great Scotland Yard’s website before you learn about its own provisions; there’s even a note about door widths in accessible rooms (32”). You feel it entering the hotel’s main entrance, where a lift conveys wheelchairs down to the reception area.

e provisions are essential for a chunk of the UK population: according to 2021 ONS data, almost 18 percent of Brits are disabled (de ned here as someone who has a physical or mental health condition or illness lasting 12 months or more that reduces their ability to carry out day-to-day activities). Globally, the WHO estimates over 1.3 billion people have a disability, while the UN reckons 70 percent of people are touched by it. ‘Everyone should be able to visit every country and enjoy amazing hotels,’ says Pierre. ‘But the only brands really showcasing it are budget hotels. Why would you want to stay in inexpensive hotels if you have amazing funds? You want to enjoy luxury.’

But nice gestures don’t make much economic sense when budgets are tight, managers face red tape from overarching consortiums, and the cost of living crisis bites. at said, the spending power of disabled people worldwide is thought to exceed $13 trillion, and VisitBritain reports accessible tourism in England is a £15.3 billion per year market. e real-world evidence is emerging: in February 2023, Hotel Brooklyn

Manchester revealed its 18 accessible Liberty Suites generated an additional £132,000 across 2022 (its rst full post-pandemic trading year). In the suites – devised by accessibility design specialist Motionspot – guests can nd ceiling track hoists concealed in light ttings, removable matte black grab rails and shower seats, wall-mounted basins with discreet hand grips, and electric curtains controlled from bedside panels. Embedding accessibility into the fabric of the hotel – with useable conference rooms, a restaurant and bar, and mini cinema – has amassed a further £85,000 through events like weddings, charity galas and award ceremonies.

‘We encourage businesses to incorporate accessible and inclusive design from the outset, because this enables the greatest exibility,’ says Rebecca Hillier at Motionspot. ‘However, signi cant improvements can still be made on refurbishment projects when the right advice is inputted at the right stage. ere are some clever ways – including wayfinding, signage, acoustics, lighting, interiors, and material choices – to make hotels accessible even in heritage buildings.’ Great Scotland Yard is one example, where the building’s listed status didn’t dissuade the hotel’s accessibility aspirations.

‘Disabled people spend more and stay longer,’ says Richard. ‘Rarely would you nd disabled guests with just one room. If you want to nd the perfect business model, it’s this one. Because once they nd somewhere they like, they’re coming back – it’s so damn hard to nd it in the rst place.’

THREE HOTELS GETTING IT RIGHT

Richard, who has a spinal cord injury, has been leading the charge for total guest inclusion for over two decades.

e culmination: Inclu, a consortium of hospitality venues and experiential service providers (from resorts to yacht charterers, villas to travel advisors). In 2022, Great Scotland Yard and Amilla Maldives Resort and Residences became the world’s rst Inclu-certi ed hotel and resort respectively. He cites the UN as the latest stimulus; accessibility is increasingly incorporated into its sustainable development goals. ‘ e UN is basically saying any meaningful sustainability strategy has to incorporate inclusivity,’ Richard explains. ‘It’s not “nice to have” anymore: this is a fundamental requirement plan. It’s just a case of who’s going to do it – and who’s going to do it right.’

But doesn’t the 2010 Equality Act mean hotels have to do all this anyway? ‘I don’t think it’s going to take much before someone launches a campaign against hospitality. e stories we hear are pretty shocking. It’s only a matter of time before hospitality is taken to task like the airline industry,’ Richard says, referring to TV personality Sophie Morgan’s #RightsOnFlights campaign, which demands that airlines are ned if they don’t provide adequately for people with disabilities. ‘I don’t want that to happen. I’d much rather the industry woke up and realised this is not as hard as they think it is. ey do most of the heavy lifting already – they just don’t know it.

‘Maybe one of the collections will step up and go all in for it. Whoever moves rst is going to get the publicity,’ he laughs. ‘ ere is that.’ n

LIME WOOD, HAMPSHIRE With ten rooms accessible for different disabilities, Pavilion Three (designed by Susie Atkinson) is flooded with natural light and features doors opening onto the forest. limewoodhotel.co.uk

THE ROYAL OAK, YATTENDON Two ground floor bedrooms – with pretty views of the village square or walled garden – feature walk-in showers designed for accessibility. royaloakyattendon.co.uk

BROWN’S, LONDON Rest your head in one of this Mayfair stalwart’s two accessible Executive rooms, after a sumptuous spa treatment and dining at Charlie’s (both designed with accessibility in mind). roccofortehotels.com

THE PIG – AT COMBE GITTISHAM, DEVON

As you approach this grade I-listed Elizabethan manor down the mile-long drive, surrounded by luscious meadows, it slips tantalisingly in and out of sight, building a sense of romance that’s utterly ful lled on arrival. Always a special place, its latest iteration is brimful of life, bonhomie and stylish informality. With the main bar installed in the historic Grand Hall, the fun starts the moment you walk in. ere’s a wonderful, double-aspect conservatory restaurant with bare wood oors, restored shutters and incredible views; cosy snugs with roaring res; a bar with a wood- red oven in the ‘derelict-chic’ Folly; huge raftered bedrooms in the attic; an atmospheric private dining room in the original Georgian kitchen and so much more. In the walled herb and infusion gardens, two potting sheds are now delightful, calming treatment rooms, beyond which stretches 3,500 acres of lush Devonshire countryside. Close by are the wide-open spaces of Dartmoor and the World Heritage coast to explore at your leisure. Just like all the other Pigs, this is a total joy of a hotel.

Doubles from £260 +44 (0)1404 540400; thepighotel.com

THE PIG – AT HARLYN BAY PADSTOW, CORNWALL

‘Which is your favourite Pig?’ I am often asked. at’s a tough question because I love them all, but it’s this one in the litter that comes trotting to mind rst. e hotel is a brooding, mysterious beauty overlooking sweeping Harlyn Bay near Padstow. It’s another sure- re hit, with gorgeous, dark, velvety interiors behind dramatic Cornish slate walls and heavy oak doors that were inspired, designer Judy Hutson says, by the stillness of Mark Rylance in Wolf Hall

Contrast these rich and opulent rooms with the airy bistro and separate Lobster Shed restaurant, lawns strewn with wooden easy chairs and wild owers, and a clutch of wonderful wagons to complement the bedrooms in the house and sympathetic new Stonehouse wing. It’s a special place with a special atmosphere, and one that will be as pleasing in winter as it is in summer. ough only opened three years ago, this Pig feels as if it has been there forever, with a burgeoning kitchen garden, two treatment huts, a great wine cellar and fabulous food from head chef Adam Bristow’s 25-mile menu.

Doubles from £255

+44 (0)3452 259494; thepighotel.com

POLURRIAN ON THE LIZARD MULLION, CORNWALL

Situated on Cornwall’s Lizard Peninsula with breath taking views across the Atlantic, Polurrian on the Lizard is a place where vintage glamour meets coastal-contemporary. Retaining an air of elegance in an unfussy yet friendly way, this spectacular cli top hangout is every bit as welcoming now as it was when it rst opened as a fashionable railway hotel in the 1890s. Boasting its own beach, this stylish property sits within attractive lawned gardens complete with a winding path leading down to secluded Polurrian Cove below. e restaurant specialises in Mediterraneaninspired dishes using the nest seasonal local ingredients and classic hand-stretched pizzas are made in the wood- red Gozney oven. Artisan drinks and enticing cocktails with a Cornish twist are perfect for sipping at the bar, as the sun sets or in the Vista Lounge, which has panoramic ocean views. With easy access to the South West Coast Path, a cli -top tennis court, indoor and outdoor pools and 12 acres of grounds, the hotel is ideal for anyone who loves the great outdoors. For total relaxation, head to the health club for Elemis treatments and yoga classes. From £149 with £27.50pp credit for dinner +44 (0)1326 240421; polurrianhotel.com

THE SEAFOOD RESTAURANT

PADSTOW, CORNWALL

Padstow is synonymous with Rick and Jill Stein. And if a restaurant can be a hub, then Rick’s famous Seafood Restaurant is just that, where red-aproned waiters whizz about in the airy, colourful dining room and a chandelier made of bobbing white sh creates an eye-catching start to your meal. Alternatively, you can eat at St Petroc’s Bistro, Rick Stein’s Café, Stein’s Fish & Chips, or spend the day at Rick’s cookery school, which o ers a perfect balance of chef demonstrations and hands-on learning. As for sleeping, choose from a variety of stylish lodgings, each designed by Jill and Kate Stein, and set in charming buildings around Padstow. ere are stunning rooms above e Seafood Restaurant, while the simplest can be found above the café and the most luxurious in St Edmunds House, which has oak oors, American shutters and views across the Camel Estuary. Plus, you’ll nd four sunny rooms in Prospect House and a further ten in St Petroc’s. For a romantic retreat, one-bedroom Bryn cottage has estuary views and a secluded garden. Finally, for the more adventurous, six warm shepherd’s huts o er beautiful countryside accommodation.

Doubles from £175

+44 (0)1841 532700; rickstein.com

ST MORITZ HOTEL & COWSHED SPA TREBETHERICK, CORNWALL

More than just a hotel, St Moritz and its Cowshed Spa has elements of a transatlantic beach resort, as be ts its name. In the quiet hamlet of Trebetherick, between Rock and Polzeath on the stunning Cornish north coast, it’s the ideal destination for a relaxing beach holiday, indulgent spa break or family get-together. e dramatic coastline, secret coves and St Enodoc links golf course provide the perfect backdrop at any time of year. Inside, whichever one of the rooms, suites, apartments, penthouses or villas you choose, it swiftly becomes your seaside sanctuary. Each has a chic, contemporary look, featuring modern furniture and spa goodies. Book a King Room and a stripy poolside beach hut is yours, too. In the leisure building you’ll nd a Cowshed spa (the only one on the coast and outside the Soho House properties) while the Shorecrest Restaurant o ers a tempting menu full of fresh, local, seasonal produce. e heated outdoor pool and Sea Side bar and café are open for the spring and summer months. e surrounding terrace, with loungers and sea views, is brilliant for people-watching and sunbathing.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1208 862242; stmoritzhotel.co.uk

TALLAND BAY HOTEL PORTHALLOW, CORNWALL

On the south Cornish coast between Polperro and Looe, Talland Bay Hotel is set in two lush acres of subtropical gardens, a pebble’s skim from the beach. From the outside it’s a long, low, white-painted building, and the interior packs a cool punch. You’ll nd sofas covered in zany zebra stripes, extravagantly high-backed chairs and quirky contemporary paintings and objets d’art. e gorgeous, panelled dining room is more classic, home to the hotel’s two AA Rosette restaurant, where Glen Merriott creates topnotch award-winning Cornish cooking, championing local produce. Don’t miss the incredible nine-course dining experience. A large terrace provides plenty of space for summer dining, while the brasserie-style conservatory o ers a more laidback alternative. e hotel prides itself on being dog-friendly, with pooches welcome in all the bedrooms (as well as all main areas of the hotel, with the exclusion of the restaurant). Choose to stay in one of the beach-chic rooms, perhaps one with a sleigh bed or four-poster draped in white fabric. For more space and privacy, the garden suites are ideal. It’s no wonder both Mick Jagger and Chris Evans are fans.

Doubles from £210

+44 (0)1503 272667; tallandbayhotel.co.uk

TREWORNAN MANOR WADEBRIDGE, CORNWALL

Paul and Lesley Stapleton are natural hosts –genial, welcoming and knowledgeable about the area. In 2014 they rescued this handsome Grade II-listed manor, set in 25 acres of mature gardens, from a state of dilapidation. ey have refurbished the place immaculately, retaining ne architectural features while bringing the house into the 21st century. e seven bedrooms have been beautifully and individually decorated, with emperor-sized beds and state-of-the-art bathrooms (the largest also have freestanding baths). e little things haven’t been forgotten either, with hot water bottles and robes upstairs and crackling res, delicious breakfasts and an honesty bar for help-yourself drinks downstairs. Homemade cakes are baked by Paul’s mother, while the large, airy sitting room is a real home from home. e location close to the Camel Estuary could hardly be better, within striking distance of some of North Cornwall’s best and prettiest towns, beaches, golf courses and restaurants, including Michelin-starred Nathan Outlaw in Port Isaac and Paul Ainsworth in Padstow. A great place to escape the kids.

Doubles from £160 +44 (0)1208 812359; trewornanmanor.co.uk

UNA ST IVES ST IVES, CORNWALL

Just outside St Ives in gorgeous, sandy Carbis Bay, Una St Ives is a collection of wood-clad lodges and luxury villas, each with chic coastalinspired interiors, a cosy log burner for chilly evenings, a well-equipped kitchen and a private garden or terrace with hot tub. When guests don’t feel like cooking, there’s award-winning Una Kitchen. Led by head chef Glenn Gatland (previous experience includes Hell Bay on the Isles of Scilly and a trio of restaurants on Tresco), it’s known for Mediterranean-inspired, wood- red cooking. Stand-out dishes include Cornish Sea bream with pea and lemon risotto, slow-cooked pork belly with Parmesan polenta and, of course, delicious hand-stretched pizzas.

New for 2023, Una Lido is a relaxed and family friendly space in which to spend your days. You’ll nd the best of the lido lifestyle: laid-back tunes, snazzy poolside cocktails and informal street food inspired dining. And, of course, there’s the lido itself: a heated outdoor pool, where you can oat, unwind and soak in the beautiful natural light. Don’t forget the spa, too, with its sauna, steam room and mustbook pampering Elemis treatments. From £480, for a three-night stay and unlimited use of the lido and spa +44 (0)1736 257000; unastives.co.uk

THE WEST COUNTRY

Head west for bucolic bliss and sun-kissed coves, as well as cutting-edge cities to explore and a burgeoning food scene to sample

Winter At Win Green by Jack Lodge (Wiltshire). LPOTYA: Collection 15 (Ilex Press, £35)

ARTIST RESIDENCE BRISTOL, SOMERSET

When Justin and Charlotte Salisbury were hunting for a site for their latest Artist Residence hotel they settled on an old boot factory in Bristol’s artsy St Paul’s community, a stone’s throw from the city’s buzzing centre. To start with, the building had all of the qualities the pair typically looks for – a nod to the past, original beams and exposed brick walls – to which they added their signature industrial-luxe style, an eclectic mix of vintage and boho furniture and a collection of original, speciallycommissioned artworks by local artists. e 23 rooms in the boutique hotel range from the super-cosy Shoe Box, which has arched oor-to-ceiling windows, to the vast Artist Suite – think Georgian cornicing, views over leafy Portland Square and a roll-top tub in the bathroom. e idea was to create a proper, vibrant neighbourhood hang-out so there’s a real emphasis on the social spaces that are open to everyone: a co ee shop, bar, casual all-day restaurant, intimate dining room o ering a seasonal menu, garden and event spaces for private hire.

Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1174 288440 ; artistresidence.co.uk

THE

BATH ARMS AT LONGLEAT

HORNINGSHAM, WILTSHIRE is is the latest thrilling venture by co-owners Dan Brod, Charlie Luxton and Matt Greenlees, whose portfolio of successful country pubs with rooms also includes e Beckford Arms (p45). Here, the trio has deliciously reinvented an 18th-century inn on the edge of the Longleat Estate, adding 16 simple yet stylish rooms in the main building and stable block. Countryside-inspired interiors feature a muted colour palette, cosy blankets on the beds and sink-into armchairs; the biggest rooms also come with modern four-posters and roll-top baths. Local is a priority so there is gin from nearby distilleries and beer from artisan breweries (it also has its own Horning Ale), as well as wine from the Beckford Bottle Shop in Bath, all served at the wood-panelled bar. In the kitchen, chef Andy Kilburn cooks up comforting, unpretentious favourites such as dry-aged Wiltshire steaks, hearty Sunday lunch and apple crumble to share. During the summer there’s nothing more lovely than settling down at cocktail hour on the sun-trap terrace looking out across the elds.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1985 844308; batharmsinn.com

THE BECKFORD ARMS FONTHILL GIFFORD, WILTSHIRE

On the Fonthill Estate, the stylish yet immediately welcoming Beckford Arms combines country pub, restaurant and comforting place to stay in equal measure. Eat in the animated bar, elegant dining room or pretty conservatory; there’s also private dining for 12 in the homely library or for 24 in the quiet sitting room, with its crackling log re, comfy antique chairs and tables piled with books. You eat well: pickled quail’s eggs and homemade sausage rolls at the bar, washed down with their own Beckford Phoenix ale, hearty but imaginative lunches and dinners as well as peerless breakfasts. You sleep well too: there are eight lovely bedrooms in the inn and two luxurious lodges ‘Spendens’ in the rolling park land – plus you can now bed down in the magni cent Grade I-listed Fonthill Arch, at the entrance to the Estate. Co-owners Dan Brod, Charlie Luxton and Matt Greenlees have thought of everything, from deeply comfortable beds to woolly hot-water bottles, pretty throws and all-natural Bramley products. ere’s an outdoor pizza oven, and delightful garden that frames vie ws of romantic Fonthill.

Doubles from £105 +44 (0)1747 870385; beckfordarms.com

THE EASTBURY SHERBORNE, DORSET

An early Georgian Grade II-listed gentleman’s residence in the charming historic town of Sherborne, e Eastbury Hotel & Spa is a multi award-winning ve-star hotel, fully refurbished in country house style. Guests keep returning for its understated charm, friendly sta , comfortable rooms and great location as a base to explore the glorious Dorset countryside. e 26 bedrooms are split between traditional luxury and contemporary chic, full of colour and abstract paintings. e fabrics are superb quality and the bedrooms all enjoy crisp Egyptian cotton bedlinen. Five Victorian Garden Potting Shed Suites are discreetly located within the lovely garden, as is its boutique luxury spa. Nestled at the bottom of the walled garden, away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, the luxury and exclusive garden spa, featuring skincare products from Gaia, is perfect for me time or spending time together with a loved one or friends. Expect local and seasonal dishes at Season’s (tuck in on the delightful leafy terrace). e most recent addition to e Eastbury is a renovated threebedroom cottage, complete with a private walled garden and terrace, ideal for family breaks.

Doubles from £140 +44 (0)1935 813131; theeastburyhotel.co.uk

LUCKNAM PARK COLERNE, WILTSHIRE

At the head of a double avenue of lime and beech trees, Lucknam Park is in a league of its own. It occupies a mellow 17th-century mansion, with gracious reception rooms and stylish bedrooms in the house and former stables. It’s impeccably run, with attentive yet discreet service. You’ll nd Hywel Jones’ exceptional Michelin-starred cooking in his eponymous formal restaurant and the cool, contemporary brasserie with open kitchen. en there’s the spa, including a sleek indoor and outdoor pool, sauna, salt room, eight treatment rooms and a social lounge with a skincare mixology bar. e impressive equestrian centre caters to all standards, from pony mad to down with dressage. For your own slice of the estate, book the chic cottages, ranging from one to four bedrooms, individually designed to give you the ultimate ve-star stay. Excellent facilities for children, including dedicated play areas, bicycles and a football pitch, make Lucknam as great a choice for families as for romantic couples, friends and celebrations.

Doubles from £295, room only Cottages from £1040, room only +44 (0)1225 742777; lucknampark.co.uk

THE NICI BOURNEMOUTH, DORSET

Opened last year on West Cli , a zig-zagging path away from Bournemouth’s seven-mile stretch of sandy beaches, e Nici is a globally inspired beauty. Rooms and suites feel modern and fresh, with palm tree print cushions and upholstery, cool contemporary artworks and fun touches such as a gold-edged drinks trolley. Some come with a sea view and private terrace, others overlook the garden and have an outdoor hot tub. On the ground oor is the South Beach Bar & Restaurant for all-day dining, from an indulgent breakfast, a light lunch or supper (dishes include sh and chips, Moroccan lamb shoulder and black tru e risotto).

Cabanas are arranged around the 30m heated outdoor pool, there is a lovely terrace for sundowners, daily cinema screenings and an activity centre where you can borrow body boards for the beach. Open spring 2023 is a membership programme and the spa. e latter includes an indoor pool, steam room and aromatherapy sauna, a treatment menu that ranges from bamboo massages to sound therapy, and group tness sessions such as boardwalk runs and paddle board yoga.

Doubles from £230 +44 (0)1202 018555; thenici.com

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theLIST

The Best…

Dog-Friendly Escapes

Hunt down the best destinations for your furry friends.

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Bodysgallen Hall

NORTH WALES

Set in 200 acres of parkland and woodland, with views of Snowdonia and Conwy Castle, Bodysgallen Hall is doggy heaven. Hunker down in a cottage – prepared with water bowl, dog bed and snacks – before venturing to nearby Llandudno for walkies amid classic seaside scenery. bodysgallen.com

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By OLIVIA EMILY

Sand & Stone Escapes

NATIONWIDE

Bring your dog on your next staycation adventure, with Sand & Stone Escapes’ abundance of unique cottages, apartments and homes across the UK. From romantic woodclad boltholes to spacious houses for all the family, you can even filter for dog-friendly escapes on the website. sandandstoneescapes.com

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Hart’s Hotel

NOTTINGHAM

Four-legged friends can luxuriate in Hart’s Hotel’s ground floor garden rooms, with French doors leading directly to the secluded private garden. Dine al fresco on your garden furniture, or venture further afield for a run around one of Nottingham’s award winning parks. hartsnottingham.co.uk

The Wellington Arms

HAMPSHIRE

This country inn sits on the Hampshire/Berkshire border, home to four lovely rooms and an unpretentious pub. Choose a tasty meal from the daily menu, pooch by your side chowing down on Lily’s Kitchen treats and hide chews. thewellingtonarms.com

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George & Dragon Clifton

CUMBRIA

With its rustic bar and wood-burning stoves, this 18th-century coaching inn sits on the edge of The Lake District. When it reopens this summer, 11 lovely rooms will make for the perfect retreat, with well-behaved dogs welcomed with open arms. georgeanddragonclifton.co.uk

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Wild Thyme & Honey

THE COTSWOLDS

Venture to this Cotswoldian idyll and make yourself at home: the country inn is nestled in Ampney Crucis near Cirencester, and features 24 beautiful boutique rooms with exposed stone, unique event spaces, and cosy pub, The Crown at Ampney Brook. wildthymeandhoney.co.uk

The Cat Inn

WEST SUSSEX

Set in the picturesque West Hoathly village, this 16th-century free house epitomises country pub charm, with an intimate four bedrooms above the pub and dining room. Nestle down in the oak-beamed pub by a cosy fireplace, dog by your side and real ale in hand. catinn.co.uk

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The Traddock YORKSHIRE

With beautiful Georgian and Victorian rooms in God’s own country, this family-owned country house hotel in Yorkshire welcomes dogs in all its rooms and suites. With two lawns onsite and the Dales on the doorstep, you’ll never be short on exciting walks. thetraddock.co.uk

Hare & Hounds

HERTFORDSHIRE

With 30 bedrooms set across four buildings, Hare & Hounds is countryside charming with a contemporary twist. Furry friends are welcome in all ground floor rooms, with a dog bed, bowl and ‘Bramley Dog Box’ ready in your room when you arrive. hareandhoundsnewbury.co.uk

Artist Residence Oxford

OXFORD

Artist Residence’s Oxfordshire outpost sits at the gateway to the Cotswolds, with seven dog-friendly bedrooms equipped with dog bed, water bowl and Lily’s Kitchen dog treats, along with luxurious beds, rainfall showers and inspiring decor for the humans. artistresidence.co.uk

The Rose & Crown at Romaldkirk

DURHAM

Next to a Saxon church in a picturesque village, this 18th-century coaching inn is surrounded by rolling rural landscapes. With 14 rooms to choose from, The Rose & Crown has ‘Welly-bix’ dog treats homemade in Romaldkirk and a special hosing/drying area for any muddy walks. rose-and-crown.co.uk

The Goodwood Hotel

WEST SUSSEX

Famed for its Glorious Goodwood and Revival festivals (as well as Goodwoof) and set across 11,000 acres of nature on the edge of the South Downs, furry friends are more than welcome at The Goodwood Hotel, with comfy beds, water bowls, tasty treats and dogfriendly dining. goodwood.com

NUMBER ONE BRUTON BRUTON, SOMERSET

Set in the thriving market town of Bruton, this Georgian townhouse turned hotel has 12 rooms set around a pretty courtyard (designed by Penelope Hobhouse). Somerset’s craft heritage is evident throughout: stay in the main house, with its rich colour palette, staircase that winds up to the eaves and aged elm oor; in one of the cottages, all warm stone oors and Morris textiles; or e Forge, which combines ancient beams and wooden cladding with cosy rugs and ticking stripes. ere is a welcome package of local, edible treats including Westcombe cheddar, cider (blended for Number One by e Newt) and apple juice. e small-batch, bespoke organic toiletries in the bathroom are made in-house. Don’t miss breakfast at Osip – the Michelin-star restaurant run by Merlin Labron-Johnson in the old ironmonger’s shop on the ground oor – where the highlights are creamy rice pudding, soft boiled eggs and freshly baked brioche (it’s worth booking a table in advance for dinner too). As well as the lovely shops in Bruton to discover, there is plenty to see close by: the Hauser & Wirth gallery, e Newt, Stourhead and Frome are all within a ten-minute drive.

Doubles from £160 +44 (0)1749 813030; numberonebruton.com

THE PIG – NEAR BATH PENSFORD, SOMERSET

is may be just one of several rural-themed Pig hotels, but its launch back in 2014 broke new ground for the Home Grown Hotels group: a proper, grown-up hotel that has all the country house attributes (space, proportions, dreamy views), but none of the drawbacks (staid, formal, eye-wateringly expensive). It’s fun and glamorous without ever losing sight of comfort. Once again Judy Hutson created the look: Belgian tiles, quirky wallpaper, velvet curtains, oil paintings and chandeliers, plus a wonderfully louche private dining room based on the Rolling Stones’ Beggars Banquet : ragamu ns feasting in a castle. As at all the Pigs (there are seven), the kitchen garden is central, with the gardeners and chefs working hand in hand to create plates brimming with seasonal avours. What they can’t grow on-site is sourced from the best local farmers, shermen and foragers, the foundation of their signature 25-mile menu. And keep an eye out for some honey- avoured dishes – the hotel celebrated the rst harvest in summer 2022 of their own honey.

Doubles from £260 +44 (0)1929 450288; thepighotel.com

THE PIG – ON THE BEACH STUDLAND, DORSET

With its wacky profusion of turrets, gargoyles, stone casements and overlapping tiles on steep roofs, this enchanting 18th-century house will bring an instant smile to your face and memories of tales of Hansel and Gretel. As for the views?

You’ll be entranced, especially looking across the sheep- ecked green elds and the sea to Old Harry Rocks. Built as a grand summer house, this Studland Bay delight is a much-loved seaside sibling in the drove of Pig hotels and it positively brims with charm. In addition to the usual conservatory restaurant (with signature 25-mile menu) and walled kitchen garden, there are quirkily di erent bedrooms. is includes two charming shepherd’s huts. Each has a bedroom and bathroom hut and a lounge hut with a sun deck, boasting the best views in the house. ere’s a buzzy outdoor bar with a wood- red oven for sourdough pizzas, a private dining room in a dreamy thatched hut (complete with its own ice cream cart), and essential beach bags, buckets and spades in every room. A thrilling, wildly popular hotel.

Doubles from £260 +44 (0)1929 450288; thepighotel.com

THE ROYAL CRESCENT  HOTEL & SPA BATH, SOMERSET

In the heart of beautiful Bath (as seen on screen in Net ix hit, Bridgerton) lies e Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa, a ve-star destination expertly combining rst-class service and meticulous attention to detail.

John Wood the Younger’s 250-year-old Georgian terrace remains truly magni cent to this day. e hotel’s 45 suites and rooms, most of which o er unrivalled views over the hotel’s pretty, herbaceous borders or the Crescent’s impressive lawn, are among the UK’s most memorable places to stay. Relax in the newly opened Montagu’s Mews, a contemporary restaurant and bar where guests can choose from afternoon tea, informal sharing and small plates, order à la carte or enjoy a gastronomic tasting menu by head chef Martin Blake. e chic bar serves crafted local botanicals and small batch spirits and there is a heated outdoor terrace with lush greenery for eating alfresco. e Spa & Bath House is another wonderfully atmospheric haven where you can unwind with a TempleSpa treatment, followed by a glass of rosé in the Taittinger Spa Garden.

Doubles from £375 +44 (0)1225 823333; royalcrescent.co.uk

THE TALBOT INN MELLS, SOMERSET

e owners of the excellent Beckford Arms in Wiltshire and e Bath Arms at Longleat (see p45 and p44), Dan Brod and Charlie Luxton, and their third partner, Matt Greenlees, scored an immediate hit with their second atmospheric inn with its lovely old stone buildings. Enter through the historic carriage arch, which leads to a cobbled courtyard backed by a succession of cosy dining areas – one a map room, another with a roaring re and yet another with a bar. ere’s also a separate sitting room, fashioned from a 500-year-old barn. As for food – there’s excellent pub grub, from dayboat-landed sh and chips to well-aged steaks. As for the eight bedrooms, they’re stylish and amazing value, with the extra touches you’d expect from e Beckford Arms, such as superb beds, rain showers and hot water bottles. e bathrooms come well stocked with luxurious, all-natural Bramley toiletries, created by the team at the Beckford. Explore the village and its exceptional church, go horse-riding, antiquehunting or explore local gardens like Longleat and the Hauser & Wirth. You’ll sleep in utter peace after all that. A real gem.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1373 812254; talbotinn.com

THE PRIORY HOTEL WAREHAM, DORSET

e setting of this former monastery and Grade II-listed country house hotel, surrounded by four acres of English cottage gardens, on the bank of the River Frome, is sublime. e history of the building, which dates to 809, is evident in each of the 17 charming rooms, many of which have original wooden beams (some have views of the Purbeck Hills, others overlook the gardens or inner courtyard). Choose between staying in the main house or the all-suite Boat House right by the water’s edge, with its vaulted ceilings, antiques and four-poster beds. Start the evening with an aperitif in the Drawing Room, the Cloisters Bar or, in the summer, on the terrace, before sitting down to try head chef Stephan Guinebault’s threecourse dinner menu in the Garden Room restaurant (you can also book in for lunch from Wednesday to Sunday). e peaceful gardens are ideal for drinking morning co ee while reading the newspapers or afternoon tea, after a day exploring the Dorset coastline. e hotel is in the market town of Wareham, with gorgeous Studland Bay and Lulworth Cove both a short drive away. Doubles from £220, room only +44(0) 1929 551666; theprioryhotel.co.uk

HAMPSHIRE & THE ISLE OF WIGHT

This slice of Britain is where sea and sky meet; where the fringes of ancient forest brush against white sandy shores. It’s wild and wonderful, and rich in unforgettable landscapes

© Neil Cooper / Unsplash

EAST END ARMS LYMINGTON, HAMPSHIRE

Welcome to the New Forest, 145 square miles of ancient heath and woodland where ponies, donkeys, pigs, cattle and deer still freely roam and where the East End Arms makes the perfect a ordable base. e owner is Dire Straits’ bass guitarist John Illsley. When he bought the pub in the mid-1990s, he received a letter from the regulars, saying: ‘Hands o our public bar!’ He says, ‘ ey wouldn’t even let me repair the hole in the ceiling and when we repainted, it had to be exactly the same colour. Fine by me!’ For a simple room with locals at the bar and real ales, turn right. For some of the best food in the New Forest – it has featured in Rick Stein’s television series, Food Heroes, and been nominated a top UK pub-with-rooms – in a charming dining room, enlivened by monochrome photographs of musicians and celebrities, turn left. For a comfy night, head upstairs to one of the ve cute and comfortable bedrooms with their king-sized beds dressed in crisp white sheets, Nespresso machines, Mulberry fabrics and walls decorated with John’s paintings. As you’d expect, breakfast is spot on.

Doubles from £110 +44 (0)1590 626223; eastendarms.co.uk

CAREYS MANOR HOTEL & SENSPA BROCKENHURST, HAMPSHIRE

When life’s cares start to pile up, escape to this New Forest bolthole for a weekend of spoiling and relaxation – it’ll be just the ticket. e spa hotel occupies a striking redbrick Victorian manor in neat gardens on the outskirts of Brockenhurst and is the sister hotel of e Montagu Arms (see p63). e reception room has oak-panelled walls and an open re to welcome you in. Seventyseven large, comfortable bedrooms combine modern amenities with traditional country house style. Some have four-poster beds and others with their own patio – ideal for soaking up the sun alongside your morning co ee. But what really makes Careys Manor stand out is its award-winning SenSpa, where you will be pampered with a mindboggling range of treatments, from a traditional ai massage to a gentle mud wrap to a thorough detox. As for food, there are three great options: Cambium, re ned yet relaxing and celebrating all that is best about New Forest produce; Zen Garden, serving delicious, authentic ai food; and informal French bar and bistro, Le Blaireau.

Doubles from £229 +44 (0)1590 624467; careysmanor.com

CHEWTON GLEN NEW FOREST, HAMPSHIRE

Chewton Glen is a true English original; a privately owned ve-star hotel and spa, situated on the edge of the ancient New Forest and a short walk from the beach in Hampshire. Choose from a variety of quintessentially English guestrooms and luxurious suites or spend the night among the trees, immersed in nature, in your very own secluded Treehouse Suite on stilts (they even come with al fresco hot tubs). Savour delectable cuisine (twice-baked cheese sou é say, or Wiltshire venison loin) and afternoon tea in e Dining Room, or enjoy a relaxed meal at e Kitchen, an exciting restaurant overseen by chef James Martin. Want to improve your culinary skills? ere’s also a cookery school o ering lessons from the chef himself. Within the 130 acres of grounds, you can enjoy all kinds of family-friendly activities: there’s a nine-hole golf course, tennis courts and a croquet lawn. Or simply unwind in the fabulous indoor and outdoor pools and the indulgent, award-winning spa –there’s something to satisfy everyone. Service is e ortless too. Without doubt, this is one of the country’s nest hotels.

Doubles from £485 +44 (0)1425 282212; chewtonglen.com

THE HAMBROUGH VENTNOR, ISLE OF WIGHT

Nestled on a pretty street in the coastal town of Ventnor, e Hambrough bene ts from both a village-feel location and fabulous sea views. is boutique island hotel has seven individually designed rooms; all are fresh, light and airy, some with balconies looking across the English Channel. If you are after something more private, there is also a charming cottage for four and a lovely town house, which sleeps ten, with original features but modern amenities. e appointment of multi award-winning executive chef Matthew Tomkinson is elevating e Hambrough’s reputation as one of the Isle of Wight’s top culinary destinations. Matthew brings with him a wealth of experience, as a Roux Scholarship winner and having previously been at two other restaurants awarded a Michelin star whilst he was Head Chef, his light, classical style menus have garnered a faithful following. e friendly sta add to its charm without compromising on service. On the southern tip of the Isle of Wight and sheltered by St Boniface Down to the north, this is one of the sunniest spots in the UK and perfect for a seaside escape.

Doubles from £160

+44 (0)1983 856333; thehambrough.com

THE GROSVENOR STOCKBRIDGE, HAMPSHIRE

is historic little gem, e Grosvenor, sits proudly at the heart of Stockbridge, the smallest town in England, and home to the River Test. e hotel is now run and has been lovingly restored to its former glory over the past few years by local resident Simon Henderson and his wife Teresa. It’s a delightful, relaxing hotel, where you can celebrate and unwind. ere are 34 beautiful bedrooms, which mix antiques with contemporary pieces – plus all boast pocket-sprung Visprung mattresses. Book the sumptuous Hayloft suite with its own sitting and dining area and Cook’s Corner. Or there’s one of the stunningly-designed Garden Rooms, opening onto the Walled Garden. ere’s also the lovely three-bedroom Tap Cottage. Dogs are welcome too. Headed up by Viraj Athukorala, there are four fantastic eateries, from the elegant Market Room Restaurant (complete with live music) to the River Room for private dining to the fabulous new 1822 bar. e Grosvenor o ers an abundance of sporting pursuits to boot, including y shing (ask the hotel for one of their delicious hampers), shooting, walking and cycling. What could be better?

Doubles from £180 B&B +44 (0)1264 810606; thegrosvenorstockbridge.com

HECKFIELD PLACE HOOK, HAMPSHIRE

Like the water lilies on its two lakes that unfurl in the afternoon sun, this country house hotel has elegantly blossomed into life. You can swim wild, picnic in the woods and wander around the hotel’s own certi ed biodynamic market garden and organic farm. Inside, there’s a sense of warmth and homeliness, with lime plaster walls in natural colours, linens, English oak oors, handcrafted furniture and matting woven from sweet-smelling River Ouse rush. Heck eld Place, once home to Charles ShawLefevre, who was Speaker of the House of Commons in the 19th century, is artistic ( ne 20th century English pictures from the owner’s private collection), literary (a library of interesting books in the Morning Room and bedrooms) and entertaining ( e Assembly is a curated programme of lms and events). ere’s also e Bothy by Wildsmith, the new 17,000 square foot home of wellbeing, and the delicious cooking of celebrated chef Skye Gyngell at the Green Michelin-starred Marle and open- red Hearth restaurants, where you can taste their fresh and seasonal estate grown ingredients. As for the bedrooms, they are simply lovely and include six distinctive and original room types.

Doubles from £550 +44 (0)118 932 6868; heck eldplace.com

LIME WOOD LYNDHURST, HAMPSHIRE

It’s all about attention to detail at this sumptuous New Forest hideaway, which has been refurbished over the last two years by renowned interior designer Susie Atkinson. Oak doors are thick, paint nishes fresh and  oor lights switch on as you walk into the bathroom from your quietly opulent, individually decorated bedroom (there are 33, in the main house and throughout the grounds). In the sybaritic Herb House Spa, you can do yoga on the rooftop herb garden, have bespoke treatments from brands such as Bamford and Ground Wellbeing, take in forest views from the sauna and eat nourishing food in Raw & Cured (look out for the newly launched Re-Wilding Retreats too).

Lime Wood is also home to Hartnett Holder & Co, the brilliant restaurant partnership between Angela Hartnett and Luke Holder which celebrates its ten year anniversary in 2023. Italian-in uenced dishes are served in gorgeous, laid-back surroundings. e glamour is there, but the sti ness of formal dining has been swept away. It’s how we want to live today, and Lime Wood perfectly captures the laid-back luxury mood.

Doubles from £495 +44 (0)2380 287177; limewoodhotel.co.uk

THE MANOR AT SWAY SWAY, HAMPSHIRE

In 2014, hotelier Tim Holloway and his wife Edlyn Cunill decided to swap London for the peace and quiet of the New Forest, with happy results for anyone looking for an a ordable yet stylish rural trip. In the village of Sway, surrounded by open heath and woodland that’s ideal for walking, horse riding and cycling, they found e Manor, built in 1906. With the help of interior designer David Bentheim they’ve given the solid brick Edwardian house a stunning makeover, its 15 beautifully coloured bedrooms decorated with prints from John James Audubon’s Birds of America , an openplan restaurant and bar and a sitting room that daringly pairs William Morris fruit wallpaper with lime green furnishings and black and white check carpets, to stunning e ect. e food, elegant, fresh and seasonal, from a constantly changing menu, is excellent (think harissa-spiced lamb rump say, or pea risotto), as are the wines. Best of all, the hotel overlooks ve acres of sloping wooded grounds, surveyed from a splendid terrace that’s perfect for outdoor dining on a warm summer’s evening.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1590 682754; themanoratsway.com

Best For… Escapes With History theLIST

Step back in time with some of Britain’s most historical stays.

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By TESSA DUNTHORNE

The Montagu Arms

NEW FOREST

The site of an inn since the 16th century, in the heart of Beaulieu village, the Grade II-listed building on the site today was completed in 1888 in the fashionable Arts & Crafts style, and since then it has hosted guests including Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, Henry Irving and Charles de Gaulle. montaguarmshotel.co.uk

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The Priory Hotel

DORSET

Older than the fall of the Byzantine empire, The Priory hotel and its Grade II*- listed building has sat on its site for over a millennium. It’s nestled in a conservation area, to boot, and its traditional guest rooms offer peeks of the River Frome and the Purbeck Hills. theprioryhotel.co.uk

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The Beckford Arms

WILTSHIRE

A traditional country inn with a fascinating history, The Beckford Arms was established in 1740 during the reign of George II. It even hosts a tiny library of Olympic rowing artefacts from the owner’s own collection of family heirlooms. beckfordarms.com

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The Talbot Inn

SOMERSET

This is steeped in history, holding secrets in its own eaves… Hidden tunnels from the Reformation hide in the inn’s flagstones, and it sits a stone’s throw away from the remains of a Roman village. A 30-minute drive from Bath, it’s the perfect base for exploring the area. talbotinn.com

The Peacock at Rowsley

DERBYSHIRE

This has hosted guests since 1820, and the history remains marked on the walls; pore over sketches by hotel owner Lord Edward Manner’s greatgrandmother. Here you’re also close to Chatsworth, Haddon Hall and Hardwick Hall. thepeacockatrowsley.com

The Bath Arms

WILTSHIRE

The village this pub sits in can be traced in the Domesday Book –but this pub was built in the 17th century, dubbed the Marquess of Bath Arms in 1850. It’s now a recently reopened 16 bedroom space adorned with old antiques, modern art and homely furnishings. batharmsinn.com

The Royal Oak

BERKSHIRE

Legend has it that in 1643, King Charles I stopped by for a quick bite to eat on his way to the battle of Newbury – and today it’s still home to excellent grub, twice named Berkshire Dining Pub of the year. royaloakyattendon.co.uk

Thornbury Castle

BRISTOL

A proper castle to call your own for a night – or longer, if you wish. Thornbury was once the country retreat of King Henry VIII, and remains beautifully preserved to this day. Dine in the dungeon, stay in the Catherine of Aragon Tower Suite, and go back in time with archery lessons and falconry demonstrations. thornburycastle.co.uk

The Feathered Nest

THE

COTSWOLDS

Set in the tiny, scenic Cotswolds village of Nether Westcote, this pub with rooms first opened in the 17th century, and started its life as a malt house. Perhaps for that reason, you should enjoy a cold beer by its stony fireplace or in its Michelin-starred fine-dining restaurant. thefeatherednestinn.co.uk

Brown’s Hotel

LONDON

As London’s first hotel, opened in 1837, Brown’s is steeped in history. Walk the same halls as Pulitzer Prize and Oscar winners – Rudyard Kipling also wrote The Jungle Book here – before cosying up in the effortlessly chic luxury hotel suites. roccofortehotels.com

The Mitre Hampton Court

KINGSTON UPON THAMES

The Mitre was reportedly originally built in 1665 at the direction of Charles II as a ‘hostel for visitors to the Palace’. Its location, a stone’s throw from Hampton Court, means it has had a front row seat to many royal shenanigans over the centuries. mitrehamptoncourt.co.uk

The Pig – at Bridge Place

KENT

The Pig at Bridge Place was potentially built on the site of an ancient hall dating back to the Abbey of Augustine – but the hotel as it stands today was erected in 1638. Its halls have seen society’s finest for centuries – from Sir Arnold to the knights of the day. Its period features have been charmingly restored. thepighotel.com

THE PIG, BROCKENHURST BROCKENHURST, HAMPSHIRE

Many hotels boast kitchen gardens, but few are as central to operations as that of e Pig at Brockenhurst. Here, the garden is an imaginative edible paradise from which the chefs source much of their daily produce, the rest coming from within a 25-mile radius. is local and seasonal food-centric ideal is the inspiration for the original concept of e Pig and its subsequent litter of hotels in the Home Grown Hotels sty, founded by British hotelier Robin Hutson in 2011. Here at Brockenhurst, the hotel, which is celebrating its 12th year, is located in a handsome Georgian shooting lodge that stands in a clearing in the New Forest, with walking, foraging and spa treatments on o er. ere’s a wonderful Victorian-style conservatory dining room, glamorous bar and outdoor courtyard. Calm, countri ed and deeply comfortable, the hotel’s seductive shabby chic aesthetic comes in a palette of soft greens and chalky greys. Bedrooms include rustic, romantic lodges tucked away in the woods. e walled garden leads to a lovely lily pond and wooden potting shed treatment room. Oh, and there really are pigs, too.

Doubles from £260 +44 (0)1590 622354; thepighotel.com

THE PIG – IN THE WALL SOUTHAMPTON, HAMPSHIRE

If e Pig, Brockenhurst is the country house, then this is its town cousin, just 20 minutes away in Southampton. Charmingly embraced by the city’s Medieval defensive walls, it’s gorgeous, a ordable and makes a great choice for a hassle-free short break, easily reached by train from London. Hole up in one of its faultlessly chic bedrooms with their retro radios, telephones and alarm clocks, rain showers and roll-top baths, superb beds, well-stocked fridge ‘larders’, bare oorboards, painted wood ceilings and pretty fabrics. In the morning, linger over pastries, cold meats, and boil-your-own eggs, and peruse the morning papers in the Edwardian country-style kitchen-cumparlour. For lunch, you can graze from the inviting deli counter, which acts as reception, too. Later you can do some serious damage in the Westquay shopping centre in Southampton (if you dare) and then, at cocktail hour, head back to e Wall for a delicious dinner of freshly-prepared salads, hearty plates (such as the pie of the day) and sweet treats, where you’ll be as happy as pigs in – er – manure.

Doubles from £215

+44 (0)2380 636900; thepighotel.com

THE MONTAGU ARMS BEAULIEU, HAMPSHIRE

Combining all the attributes of a traditional country house hotel – roaring log res, oak panelling, pretty gardens and comfortable bedrooms – with the pleasures of a picturesque village setting, e Montagu Arms makes an ideal base for a break. Browse Beaulieu’s pretty high street, take a riverside walk to Buckler’s Hard or explore the surrounding New Forest National Park. Back in the hotel you’ll nd a dark oak hall that contrasts with the bright, cream-panelled sitting room, leading in turn to a sunny conservatory and ower- lled gardens. ere are 33 bedrooms – 22 upstairs, the others located within the grounds – that stay true to the hotel’s heritage while enjoying contemporary colour schemes and designer fabrics. In the elegantly decorated and award-winning Terrace restaurant, a treat is in store. Tuck into modern, re ned cuisine, which uses the best of the New Forest and the hotel’s own produce to create dishes that take local provenance seriously, engaging all the senses and bringing an element of theatre to the table. Alternatively, there’s Monty’s, the hotel’s country pub, just next door, which o ers delicious heritage cooking and much-loved English classics.

Doubles from £229

+44 (0)1590 612324; montaguarmshotel.co.uk

THE WELLINGTON ARMS BAUGHURST, HAMPSHIRE

ere’s something pretty special about e Welly. ought to have originated as the Duke of Wellington’s hunting lodge on the edge of his Strat eld Saye estate, it’s now a real foodies’ pub, owned and run with great charm by Simon Page (front of house) and Jason King (award-winning chef). Set in countryside on the Hampshire/Berkshire border, it has a proli c kitchen garden and a eld where hens, bees, sheep, geese and pigs are kept. e dining room – there are just 12 highly prized tables – is delightfully informal. Jason uses homegrown ingredients in most of his carefully prepared, country-style dishes. ere are four bedrooms: the Apartment is a one-bedroom suite above the pub; there are two striking guest rooms tucked away in a converted 17th century oak-framed, brick and timber hay store; and the Cart House is a green oak barn. ey have all the extras, from rain showers with Malin+Goetz products to Nespresso co ee machines and excellent beds dressed in top quality linen. Breakfast is a feast, with eggs straight from their hens and divine tea cosies knitted by Simon’s mum.

Who could ask for more?

Doubles from £130

+44 (0)1189 820110; thewellingtonarms.com

THE HOME COUNTIES

From vineyards to funfairs, and chalk cliffs to cathedrals, these six unique counties are bursting with unforgettable things to see, do, eat and drink

ARTIST RESIDENCE

BRIGHTON, EAST SUSSEX

e story of the Artist Residence group began 14 years ago when Justin and Charlotte Salisbury rst met as students. Justin’s mum, who’d just bought a Brighton guesthouse in need of renovation, was seriously injured in an accident and 20-year-old Justin stepped in. Having no idea how to tackle the redecoration, he lled the listed townhouse with artists, asking them to decorate the rooms in return for free board. And so, the rst Artist Residence, successful and buzzy, was born. It was soon joined by four more, Oxford (below), and Bristol (p44). e Brighton original has sea views and retro-style bedrooms ranging from tiny crash pads to a huge suite. e newest editions include three fabulous apartments - one sleeping four guests, one with a balcony- and all with high ceilings, original features and sea views. Each individually decorated room also features vintage furniture, organic Bramley bath and body products, limited edition art prints and Nespresso co ee machines. ere’s also a relaxed neighbourhood hangout serving breakfast and cocktails.

Doubles from £95 +44 (0)1273 324302; artistresidence.co.uk

ARTIST RESIDENCE SOUTH LEIGH, OXFORDSHIRE

When it opened in 2017 this was a new departure for the burgeoning Artist Residence group of funky, art-themed hotels that have sprung up courtesy of enterprising owners, Justin and Charlotte Salisbury. is energetic couple, complete with a new baby, headed out of town to leafy Oxfordshire and took on the Mason Arms, a well-loved local inn in South Leigh, stamping it with their inimitable sense of style. ere are now ve stunning bedrooms upstairs and a further three suites in the stables and outbuildings, plus a cool shepherd’s hut in the garden. Original features have been retained and restored, auction houses and reclamation yards scoured and modern art set against William Morris wallpaper. e restaurant features art by e Connor Brothers, Ben Eine and Lucy Sparrow, while the kitchen produces hearty and rustic British food (think classic sh and chips, and rump steak) in a fun and friendly setting. If you’ve fallen for an Artist Residence in Penzance, Pimlico, Bristol or Brighton, then this cosy Oxfordshire escape is your next country hideaway.

Doubles from £145 +44 (0)1993 656220; artistresidence.co.uk

BAILIFFSCOURT CLIMPING, WEST SUSSEX

A short stroll from secluded Climping Beach (about halfway between Arundel and Chichester), Baili scourt is a gorgeous medieval-style house created by Walter Guinness, later Lord Moyne, and his wife Evelyn. It’s now a hotel with 39 bedrooms of all styles, spread throughout numerous charming houses and cottages in parkland.

e newest, in the Moat House and e Oaks, stand beside the old moat, overlooking the elds beyond. e more traditional –some with four-posters – and the series of interconnecting sitting rooms, stu ed with tapestries, oak chests and Knole sofas, all feel charmingly authentic. Lawns are dotted with more medieval-style outbuildings, owers, shrubs and peacocks, and there’s an airy spa, with indoor and outdoor pools. e charming courtyard and rose garden are the ideal spots for sipping wine, produced by a local Sussex vineyard, or for afternoon tea in the sunshine. e name Baili scourt recalls the monk who was sent over by the Abbess of Séez in Normandy to act as baili and watch over the 13th century chapel, which still stands in the grounds today.

Doubles from £325 +44 (0)1903 723511; hshotels.co.uk

BEAVERBROOK LEATHERHEAD, SURREY

Beaverbrook is a magni cent, must-visit country house hotel. We’ve been, we’ve seen, we’ve stayed, we’ve played (several times) and it’s fabulous. Originally Cherkley Court, the former mansion of Lord Beaverbrook has weekenders falling over themselves to revel in the 19th century wedding cake architecture and Susie Atkinson interiors: grand yet homely, romantic and fun – and underpinned by historical photographs of the newspaper magnate and famous visitors, like Elizabeth Taylor and Rudyard Kipling. ere’s Japanese cuisine in e Dining Room, stunning views of formal gardens, a 470-acre woodland estate with a treehouse and kids’ club. e separate brick and int Garden House, with interiors by Nicola Harding, o ers a bar, Anglo-Italian restaurant and 11 bedrooms. e Coach House

Suites are perfect for families, totalling the number of rooms at 35. e crowning glory is the nature-based Coach House Health Club & Spa, designed by stained glass artist Brian Clarke, which o ers an array of transformative wellness experiences curated by spa director René van Eyssen and her team. All this so close to London, in the heart of the Surrey Hills.

Doubles from £505

+44 (0)1372 571300; beaverbrook.co.uk

THE CAT INN WEST HOATHLY, WEST SUSSEX

A spell at e Cat will leave you purring with contentment. With its regulars chatting at the bar, its blazing re in the huge inglenook replace, its hops, pewter and mix of airy and cosy dining areas, this early 16th-century, timber-framed village inn exudes character and bonhomie. One of Britain’s greatest gastropubs, its landlord Andrew Russell, previously General Manager at nearby Gravetye Manor, mixes professionalism with a natural air for people. As for the food from chef Suphi Ergin, there’s no trumpeting and no fuss and, as a result, its superb quality is all the more delightful. ‘I recommend the pie and chips,’ says Andrew. And what a steak, mushroom and ale pie it is. Leave space for a homemade pud, too. Upstairs there are four attractive, luxurious, well-equipped bedrooms, one very large, another with a view of the pretty church. In the morning, after a sophisticated breakfast worthy of Gravetye, follow the path through the churchyard for a spectacular view across the valley or spend the day visiting the many beautiful gardens and vineyards nearby.

Doubles from £160 +44 (0)1342 810369; catinn.co.uk

CLIVEDEN HOUSE TAPLOW, BERKSHIRE

Built for the second Duke of Buckingham’s mistress in 1666, Cliveden House is an renowned English country estate famed as a ve-star setting for lavish entertaining and scandal. Standing in 376 acres of magni cent gardens and parkland (now owned by the National Trust), the hotel has 47 spacious rooms and suites in the elegant main mansion. Elsewhere, there’s Spring Cottage, a summerhouse on the banks of the River ames, which o ers guests the ultimate in luxurious privacy and escapism. e property has two outstanding restaurants: the opulent chandeliered Cliveden Dining Room, which is complemented by the relaxed informality of e Astor Grill. A luxurious spa, open to members and hotel guests is the spot for relaxation; unwind by the indoor pool before wandering into the garden where you will nd the Profumo pool – the last remaining listed outdoor pool in England. Cliveden is imbued with a palpable sense of history, for this is a house that, for over 350 years, has been dedicated to the pursuit of pleasure, power and politics.

Doubles from £580 +44 (0)1628 668561; clivedenhouse.co.uk

COWORTH PARK

ASCOT, BERKSHIRE

Just 45 minutes by car from central London lies e Dorchester’s bucolic cousin, a cream-coloured, 18th-century country house set within acres of immaculate parkland.

e hotel has its own stables, professional polo elds, and a wild ower meadow. e gorgeous spa o ers a plethora of massage techniques with brands such as Valmont and Ishga Organic. Retreat to one of the sumptuously light and airy suites, decorated in colour schemes that re ect the landscape, with swathes of cashmere, mohair and wool in natural pigments. Foodies are spoilt –in the main restaurant, Woven by Adam Smith the executive chef and his team have garnered a Michelin star and serve up bestof-British ingredients, while e Barn o ers more laid-back rustic dining (muddy boots welcome) and e Spatisserie is a perfect, airy spa restaurant. e grounds are vast, which means plenty of walking and jogging routes, croquet on the upper lawn and relaxing by the lake. Guests can also sign up for polo lessons or riding. Children are encouraged: there is a private kid’s club, including a teen den, and outdoor activities such as mini-Olympics.

Doubles from £479

+44 (0)1344 876600; dorchestercollection.com

THE GALLIVANT

RYE, EAST SUSSEX

Happiness is a place and you’ll nd it at e Gallivant. e sand between your toes. Sky and beach as far as your eyes can see. Wonderful food that celebrates the local area. Deeply comfortable beds in the 20 beautifully thought-out bedrooms. Relaxing yoga and wellness classes in the bright and airy yoga studio. Inspiring expert-led wine tasting and culinary experiences. But above all else, a warm and welcoming team with a clear mission: they want you to leave happy and inspired. e Complete Gallivant is a hotel package like no other (they’ve done their research). It includes energising breakfasts, all-day Elevenses, daily yoga classes, English wine and a delicious, seasonal dinner. Wanting to really unwind?

e Bamford Cabin at e Gallivant is a relaxing oasis o ering restorative massage and facial treatments using Bamford’s natural and organic skincare. Escaping from the city? Order from the new Drinks in the Dunes menu and you’ll get a world-class cocktail, conveniently packed with a beach blanket, so you can enjoy your sundowner on the beach in comfort and style.

From £235

+44 (0)1797 225057; thegallivant.co.uk

theLIST

Best For… Escapes with Swimming Pools

Whoever said Britain was too cold for a dip?

By TESSA DUNTHORNE

3 Una St Ives

CORNWALL

Una’s exceptional architect-designed villas and lodges host perfect views of idyllic Cornish countryside. It’s recently opened the Una Lido, a heated outdoor swimming pool, which comes complete with poolside bar and which will host a buzzing series of summer events. unastives.co.uk

1The Tawney Hotel

STOKE-ON-TRENT

Surrounded by striking Staffordshire countryside, a stay at The Tawney is a retreat to nature. Opt for a waterside stay in its romantic and secluded boathouses aside the lake, and seek total in its outdoor swimming pool, which has sensational views of the whole valley. thetawny.co.uk

4 The Nici DORSET

Having undergone a major recent refurbishment, The Nici is now all about colour. The resort’s outdoor swimming pool sees trendy striped sun umbrellas ranking the pool and its loungers, while the indoor swim offerings include both heated and hydrotherapy pools for a stay with some splash. thenici.com

5 The Merrion

DUBLIN

2 Grantley Hall

YORKSHIRE

This grand Yorkshire house is set in glorious English countryside – but its indoor swimming pool is set in a sort of Grecian opulence, all columns and sandstone. If you’re feeling especially adventurous, brave the brisk northern air for the 18m outdoor pool (don’t worry, it’s heated). grantleyhall.co.uk

At the heart of this hotel is its spectacular swimming pool. A whopping 18m infinity pool set in French limestone, and bookended by a tiled trompe l’oeil (depicting a neo-classical landscape), it’s a tranquil space to relax. Plus, a swim here can be followed by a visit to the two Michelin-starred restaurant. merrionhotel.com

The Blakeney Hotel

NORFOLK

This quayside hotel has a brilliant panorama of the Norfolk coast, and if you’re so inspired by the view of water that you simply want in, its pool is a fresh (and less salty) option. The stylish indoor swimming pool sits plum alongside the hotel’s Jacuzzi. Both are heated. blakeney-hotel.co.uk

Lowen at Trevear Farm

PADSTOW

Guests of this fabulous three-bedroom cottage have exclusive access to its outdoor (and heated) swimming pool. The space also has a full outdoor dining suite and BBQ, so it’s the ideal sunny weather stay. trevearfarm.co.uk

Ockenden Manor

WEST SUSSEX

Step onto the sublime (and vast) grounds of this Elizabethan manor house and you’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time or onto the set of Wolf Hall. Not so with the spa or pool, though, as these are state-of-the-art. The in-and-outdoor heated swimming pool means you’re able to swim yearround on your stay. hshotels.co.uk

Careys Manor

NEW FOREST

A classic English escape, Careys Manor is bordered by dreamy sloping trees and covered in twisting moss and vines – dreamier still, though, is its spa. The hydrotherapy pool is misty with its bubble jets and long, thin taps, and you can perch up with a book on its underwater benches. Magical. careysmanor.com

The Nare

CORNWALL

Panoramic views of the coast (plus sandy, sun-soaked beaches), The Nare is the ideal escape in Cornwall for the aquaobsessed and sociable swimmers. In addition to easy beach access, the hotel can brag about its three pools – indoor, outdoor and its hydrotherapy spa-pool. narehotel.co.uk

Talbooth House & Spa

ESSEX

Boasting an indoor-outdoor spa and its large, crystalclear pool, Talbooth House & Spa is a tranquil escape for R&R seekers. And with only 12 rooms in the whole hotel, you’ll have fuss-free pool access. milsomhotels.com

Cornwell Manor

THE COTSWOLDS

This originally Jacobean manor house hosts up to 24 guests of your choice. Make it a pool party in the heated swimming pool, which boasts its own poolhouse that comes well-equipped with a stylish sauna and a bar. cornwellmanor.com

GOODWOOD HOTEL CHICHESTER, WEST SUSSEX

Stay here, and everything that Goodwood has to o er is at your ngertips. Most famous for its Glorious Goodwood and motorsport festivals, the hugely impressive sporting estate has many di erent elements, and guests of the hotel e ectively become members of each one of them. us, the superb health club and spa is yours; also, elegant private members’ club, e Kennels; and the membership-only championship Downs golf course. But there’s more: you can visit Goodwood House itself and have a guided tour, followed by afternoon tea in the Ballroom. Plus, there are 19 days of racing a year at the prettiest of racecourses; the Motor Circuit where you can take a spin; and the historic aerodrome where you can y a Cessna. And the hotel? Sleek and sophisticated with characterful bedrooms and high standards of cooking in the light and airy restaurants. ese include the agship eld-to-fork Farmer, Butcher, Chef where the menu revolves around the organic, estate-grown meat. e hotel is also home to Goodwood’s wellness retreats, which includes a gut health programme plus a menopause and Wim-Hof retreat.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1243 775537; goodwood.com/hotel

THE GROVE, HERTFORDSHIRE CHANDLER’S CROSS, HERTFORDSHIRE

Set in 300 acres of Hertfordshire countryside, just 18 miles from London, e Grove is the ultimate ve-star retreat. Over the last few years, the hotel has undergone extensive refurbishment, and has 214 luxurious suites and bedrooms, elegant lounges and four unique restaurants (it also runs a series of dining pop-ups throughout the year). is spring, the historic mansion was given a fresh look by award-winning interiors studio Martin Hulbert Design, and now houses nine suites and 16 bedrooms. At the revamped Sequoia spa, a new treatment menu showcases rituals, massages and facials using heavenly skincare brand Bamford and beyond that, there’s the championship golf course which hosted the 2016 British Masters.

e grounds o er all manner of activities, including Asher’s Woodland Trails featuring axe throwing, bikes for hire, archery and laser clay shooting. e Grove’s hidden gem is its Walled Garden, complete with Ralph’s Beach (think sand, deckchairs, buckets and spades), a heated outdoor pool, Jemima’s Kitchen Garden, which provides produce for the chefs, and the Potting Shed, a plant- lled haven which houses the Italian-inspired Verde Kitchen restaurant.

Doubles from £420 +44 (0)1923 807807; thegrove.co.uk

HARE & HOUNDS, NEWBURY NEWBURY, BERKSHIRE

After many months of hard work, recently renovated 17th century pub Hare & Hounds is celebrating a new dawn. Located in the beautiful village of Speen, it’s the type of place that suits everyone – be it for a fun- lled weekend, romantic escape or simply passing through. Plus, Newbury Racecourse is only a stone’s throw away. Dogs are welcomed with open arms, too. e 30 individual bedrooms, some with gorgeous roll-top copper bath tubs, are housed in four stylish buildings ( e Stables, e Paddocks, e Hunter’s Lodge and e Coach House). Each, complete with racingthemed fabric, is packed with all the charm and character of a traditional coaching inn yet brought bang up to date with a contemporary twist. Settle down beside a crackling re in the barn dining room or in the garden for traditional afternoon tea, or choose from the menu of farm-to-table cuisine and impressive list of cocktails, craft beers and hand-picked wines. e Sunday roast is fantastic, too, which you can walk o afterwards on the Watership Down. Other nearby attractions include Highclere Castle, the Bombay Sapphire Distillery and e Watermill eatre.

Doubles from £125

+44 (0)1635 521152; hareandhoundsnewbury.co.uk

HARTWELL HOUSE VALE OF AYLESBURY, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

One of the great pleasures of visiting hotels is that they’re often very special buildings to which you’d never normally have access. One shining example is Hartwell House, a Grade I-listed stately home that was occupied from 1809 to 1814 by the exiled Louis XVIII. Inside, there are beautiful rooms with antique furniture and paintings. e Morning Room, for example, is a masterpiece of English design by Henry Keene, virtually unchanged since its completion in 1740, with a stunning rococo ceiling by omas Roberts of Oxford.

ere’s also an extraordinary Jacobean staircase, lined with statues of the knights of Europe, leading from the Great Hall. If you think all this grandeur means pomp and ceremony, worry not. As with fellow National Trust Historic House Hotels, Bodysgallen Hall (p152) and Middlethorpe Hall (p145), the hospitality is natural and attentive, the bedrooms as comfortable as they are grand, and the food as delicious as you would expect. An afternoon tea is served daily in the magni cent drawing rooms. And the hotel’s spa is a classically themed delight.

Doubles from £400

+44 (0)1296 747444; hartwell-house.com

THE HORSE & GROOM

EAST ASHLING, WEST SUSSEX

e Horse & Groom has again been included in the Michelin Guide for its delicious food, served in the dining room which has a backdrop of mid 20th century paintings, a handcrafted oak oor, and interesting collections of Italian sardine pots and vintage gardening books. is centuries-old former blacksmith’s shop turned pub was restored by jeweller Annoushka Ducas and her businessman husband John Ayton. ere are ten cosy rooms, all with traditional oak furniture, exposed wooden beams and a palette of soft, calming hues and original artwork from the owners’ collection. Guests can polish o dishes such as local Selsey crab or a Sunday roast with all the trimmings.

e locals’ bar feels like a proper boozer with stone oors, pine tables and a welcoming re. Beers on tap in the bar include Hophead, a golden pale ale from Dark Star brewers in Partridge Green. Located four miles west of Chichester, on the edge of the South Downs National Park and only two miles from the harbour, it’s very popular with walkers and those attending events such as Qatar Goodwood Festival and the Festival of Speed. Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1243 575339; thehorseandgroom.pub

HORWOOD HOUSE HOTEL

LITTLE

HORWOOD, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

Horwood House Hotel – the birthplace of famed gardener and television presenter Percy rower – recently became independent and underwent a £6 million refurbishment. e Grade II-listed manor house in the village of Little Horwood sits in 38 acres of grounds (the house was commissioned by a local businessman who loved gardens and at one point employed 16 gardeners to look after them). In fact, everything from the decoration of the modern bedrooms to the new restaurant, Harry’s Bar & Kitchen, is inspired by the gardens in some way. e latter is named after head gardener, Percy rower’s father, Harry, and excels in informal dining – from cocktails on the terrace to feasting with friends around a large country kitchenstyle table. A large portion of the menu centres around the grill; all meat is sourced locally from e Buckingham Butchers and steaks are aged in a bespoke Himalayan salt chamber. Hotel guests automatically have access to the pool and gym, part of the new H Spa, which also has a steam room, sauna and treatment rooms. ere are also 15 exible meeting and banqueting spaces.

Doubles from £109 +44(0)1296 722100; horwoodhouse.co.uk

LE MANOIR AUX QUAT’SAISONS, A BELMOND HOTEL

GREAT MILTON, OXFORDSHIRE

Winner of the C&TH x Polestar award for sustainability 2023, this is one of the bestknown manor house hotels in the country –and for good reason. With the unequivocal gastronomic vision of Chef Patron Raymond Blanc OBE, the restaurant here received two Michelin stars in the rst year of opening, in 1984, and has held them ever since. More recently, a Green Michelin Star has been added, acknowledging the seasonality, foraging and no waste approach that are integral to the dining experience. e good news is that guests staying overnight are guaranteed a table for dinner. Afterwards, retire to one of the 32 individually designed rooms and suites, each one drawing inspiration from Blanc’s travels - with it’s toile de jouy wallpaper that evokes a sense of France. Stroll through manicured gardens to discover the magni cent orchards, ponds and sculptures, or book into classes at e Raymond Blanc Cookery and Gardening Schools. ‘Everyone aspires to one moment of luxury: here is the place to have it,’ says Blanc. We couldn’t agree more.

Doubles from £995 +44(0)1844 278881; belmond.com/lemanoir

THE MITRE AT HAMPTON COURT

EAST MOLESEY, SURREY

Set on the banks of the River ames, overlooking the magni cent Hampton Court Palace, this three-year-old hotel is a rm favourite with those in the know. Its history is quite the draw: housed in a Grade II-listed building dating back to 1665, it was originally used as ancillary accommodation for guests of King Charles II. It is the sister property to e Retreat at Elcot Park (p80). Interior lovers will swoon at the design, too. Here, Nicola Harding has curated the most photogenic, individually styled bedrooms, all named after historical references linked to the hotel. Choose from views over the ames, palace or charming internal courtyards. en there’s the fantastic culinary o ering from the hotel’s kitchen team: choose from riverside brasserie 1665 for sh pie or roast venison, or new cafe e Coppernose for fresh pastries and brunch dishes. e Orangery has one of the largest riverside terraces on the ames, o ering a blissful space for sundowners as swans and little boats glide by. End the night with cocktails at the stylish Boat House bar.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)20 8979 9988; mitrehamptoncourt.com

1

The Best… Romantic Escapes theLIST

By ANOOP BHULLER

3

Wildhive Callow Hall

PEAK DISTRICT

With treehouses and bee hives, and a grand country-house hotel, this hotel offers up the glories of nature in abundance – with a great variety of accommodation. From outdoor copper baths to star-gazing loungers, and a deeply indulgent spa, you’ll soon rekindle your romance. wildhive.uk

THE PIG – at Combe

DEVON

Tucked away in the heavenly Otter Valley in Devon, THE PIGat Combe is a honey-coloured Elizabethan gem that oozes romance. Just 15 minutes from the sea, you can spend time exploring Devon’s coastal walks or the hotel’s on-site kitchen garden to get a peek at the fresh produce from the menu. thepighotel.com

2

The Cadogan, a Belmond Hotel

LONDON

Right on swanky Sloane Street, The Cadogan is the perfect base from which to explore the streets of London. Return with a headful of artworks and a handful of shopping bags. belmond.com

5 The Beaumont

LONDON

Return to the 1920s at this art deco splendour. Go for afternoon tea in Gatsby’s Room, dress up for cocktails at Magritte Bar; and end up for dinner in The Colony Grill Room. There’s also a chauffeur-driven car for use to hop around Mayfair. thebeaumont.com

4 Congham Hall

NORFOLK

Tucked away in the gorgeous North Norfolk countryside, this gorgeous Georgian manor house has a great spa with a hot tub, sauna, and pool, plus a fabulous restaurant with kitchen garden sourced ingredients. conghamhallhotel.co.uk

Ballynahinch Castle

CO. GALWAY, IRELAND

You can’t get more wondrous than an Irish Castle, set in 700 acres of woodland at the heart of Connemara. The estate runs daily guided walks, or pack your own picnic and take to beautifully scenic walking trails. ballynahinch-castle.com

7 Hazlitt’s

LONDON

You can’t get more romantic than Soho – just think of the historical figures who haunted its hallowed streets. Hazlitt’s exploits it to the max with rooms that feature original 18th century fireplaces and roll-top baths. Bliss. hazlittshotel.com

The Crown at Church Enstone

THE COTSWOLDS

This traditional country inn in a 17th-century Cotswolds village with low beams, country fabrics and fabulous artwork, offers a stylish, snug stay. Close to Chipping Norton and Woodstock, there’s lots to do before returning to enjoy a delicious seasonal menu. crowninnenstone.co.uk

8 11 Cadogan Gardens

The Rookery

LONDON

A stone’s throw from Sloane Street, Chelsea, 11 Cadogan Gardens is just next to romantic Pavilion Road with its array of independent shops and eateries. Expect individually designed rooms and some of the finest cocktails in London. 11cadogangardens.com

11 The Lamb Inn THE COTSWOLDS

If you like your romance rustic, come to The Lamb Inn with its charming British feel in the heart of the pretty market town of Burford. Think brick feature walls, wooden furnishings and candle-lit tables in the excellent restaurant. cotswold-inns-hotels.co.uk

LONDON

Love a quirky place to stay? Want to impress your date?

Come to The Rookery, an utterly charming hotel in lively area Clerkenwell. Featuring stone flagged floors and antique oak furniture, it’s a fabulously original choice for a naughty weekend away. rookeryhotel.com

The Bell Inn THE COTSWOLDS

A classic honey-coloured Cotswolds gem near Lechlade, The Bell Inn reopened in 2017 and is sought-after for its grub (just read the critics’ reviews). It’s a pub that has remained a pub but has raised the bar in every way. thebelllangford.com

THE PIG – AT BRIDGE PLACE CANTERBURY, KENT

Every Pig hotel in this magni cent litter has its very own personality. Bridge Place on the leafy outskirts of Canterbury has a rock ’n’ roll vibe that’s immediately evident. e 29-bedroom, Grade II*-listed, Queen Anne manor house is set in the luscious Nailbourne valley that’s part of the Kent Downs. It sports a handsome red-brick façade and ornate Jacobean interior, while also containing a colourful recent past. e likes of Eric Clapton and Pink Floyd have gigged and partied here, and now it’s your turn to have a ball, amid a wealth of period features, secret stairways, panelled rooms and endless nooks and crannies, all brought to life by Home Grown Hotels’ Chairman Robin Hutson and his renowned designer wife Judy, with her eye for e ortless, laidback chic. As with every other Pig, the kitchen garden and restaurant are the beating heart of this revitalised property. If you’ve pigged out on the others, this delightful locale (just 56 minutes by train from central London) should be next on your list: you’ll be seduced, charmed and ready to party, all at the same time.

Doubles from £215 +44 (0)3452 259494; thepighotel.com

THE PIG – IN THE SOUTH DOWNS MADEHURST, WEST SUSSEX

Set within the small hamlet of Madehurst, e Pig, high up on the South Downs in West Sussex, threw open its doors in September 2021 – complete with its own vineyard. And Pig owner Robin Hutson has done it again, creating a haven of rural bliss for his seventh hotel. Only four miles from Arundel and a short drive to the yachting playground of Chichester, it’s a brilliant base for exploring – but also great for hunkering down. e 28 lovingly-restored bedrooms are spread out between a higgledy-piggledy collection of traditional brick, int and timber clad stable yard buildings, together with Field and Garden Wagons. Each is unique and classically Pig – think indulgent fabrics, reclaimed wood, roll-top baths and locally-stocked larders full of goodies. e wagons, tucked away in the walled garden or in the elds, are super cosy with log burners. e food, with its 25-Mile Menu, is, as ever, terri c. It’s simple British food done well with a focus on local and homegrown produce – plus there’s a wide-ranging wine list and large kitchen garden.

Doubles from £225 +44(0)1234 974500; thepighotel.com

OCKENDEN MANOR CUCKFIELD, WEST

You get the best of both worlds at Ockenden. If you prefer reassuring, traditional comfort, look no further than this charming Elizabethan manor house. If you want slick, sophisticated modernity, that’s yours, too. As well as the elegant drawing room, there’s an oak-panelled bar (where the wine list boasts over 25 English wines, many produced by local vineyards), the Burrell Room for private dining, with its original Tudor ceiling, and an airy restaurant where Stephen Crane serves some of the nest food in Sussex. ere are 28 bedrooms, full of character; some with original panelling and four-posters, others fresh and pretty. And then there’s the spa, utterly modern on the outside, airy and natural inside, with an indoor-outdoor pool, hot tub, jacuzzi, walkthrough rain shower, steam room, sauna, gym, sun deck and guest lounge. As for the six knockout rst- oor spa suites –they pack a thoroughly contemporary punch, with shutters in the bathrooms that open onto the bedrooms, which in turn open onto a roof garden with marvellous views across to the South Downs.

Doubles from £245 +44 (0)1444 416111; hshotels.co.uk

THE RELAIS COODEN BEACH

BEXHILL-ON-SEA, EAST SUSSEX is elegant resort, on an untouched corner of the East Sussex Coast, is celebrating a new dawn, after being taken over in 2021 by seasoned hoteliers Grace Leo and Tim Hartnell. Sitting on a private beach with stunning panoramas across the English Channel, e Relais Cooden Beach, is a playful take on a seaside resort. e stylish coastal interiors are infused with international in uences – expect nautical stripes and lots of blues mingled with warm terracotta hues. e food celebrates local suppliers. e Rally Bar & Restaurant, with its spacious beachfront terrace and superb views, serves fresh and seasonal menus – the ‘catch of the day’, supplied by local shermen, is a must-order. Just a two-hour train ride from London Victoria, this is a restorative resort for all seasons. In winter, the cosy replace in the heart of the bar is the perfect place to warm up over a game of backgammon and nd a nook to read or go in the summer and hang out in the vibey Beach Club, which, just like everything in this resort, is pretty much perfect.

Doubles from £225 +44 (0)1424 842281;  therelaisretreats.com/coodenbeach

THE RETREAT AT ELCOT PARK NEWBURY, WEST BERKSHIRE

A newly reimagined 18th-century country hotel and spa set in glorious grounds between Hungerford and Newbury, e Retreat at Elcot Park is the sister property to e Mitre at Hampton Court (p70). Bedrooms are colourful and full of character, combining antiques with contemporary art and patterned textiles. Each suite is di erent: one has a copper roll top bath in a bay window; another has a separate room with bunk beds for children. e vibe throughout is laid-back luxury. For food, choose between 1772, a relaxed all-day brasserie or the smarter nedining Pan-Asian restaurant Yü (ideally nd time to try both). ere’s also a children’s play area, and a spa complete with hydrotherapy pool, treatment rooms, steam and sauna. In the courtyard, there’s chef and author Clodagh Mckenna’s Clodagh Store, plus a wine cave, hair and nail salon, and a monthly farmers’ market. Active types can play games of tennis or croquet but in the summer, the place to be is around the outdoor in nity pool. is is a new chapter for a country classic – and once you check in, there’s really no need to leave.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1635 800520; retreatelcotpark.com.

THE ROYAL OAK YATTENDON, BERKSHIRE

You’ll be greeted with a cheery welcome at this superb redbrick inn in the charming village of Yattendon. It’s all that a great pub should be, from the beamed ceilings to the stocky wooden bar with proper ales on tap. Beyond the main bar and dining room lies a large sitting room with inviting, deep sofas and a huge open re for chilly winter nights. On the other hand, in summer the suntrap garden is the sort of place where bottles of rosé disappear with merry swiftness. Best to soak it all up with some of head chef Nick MacGregor’s excellent, unfussy, locally sourced grub. You can also eat and drink in the fabulous glass-fronted orangery, whose bi-fold doors overlook the garden. Its centrepiece is a stunning open kitchen, with a three-tiered rotisserie, Argentine parrilla grill and pizza oven. And after a day of indulgence, where better to rest your sleepy head than in one of the ten light and airy bedrooms? A king-sized bed beckons, with luxury linens and gorgeous throws. e newly refurbished bathrooms are also stocked with beautiful Bramley products for that long soak in the roll-topped baths.

Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1635 201325; royaloakyattendon.co.uk

THE SPREAD EAGLE MIDHURST, WEST SUSSEX

e characterful Spread Eagle hotel and spa in historic Midhurst elegantly marries history, tradition and character with contemporary, spoiling treats. In the ne oak-beamed dining room, earthenware basins dangle from the ceiling as a tangible reminder that here puddings are still presented to guests every Christmas using a secret recipe that dates back decades, just as tradition dictates. Yet the same coaching inn also sports an on-trend gin bar, with more than 100 di erent brands and 12 di erent tonics, plus garnishes from the garden. While the hotel’s main building dates back to 1430 and is set in the middle of the boutiquelled market town of Midhurst, you will also nd an impressive spa and indoor pool beneath a contemporary Scandinavian-style roof. Plus, there’s a lovely lounge bar and conservatory where you can drink and dine, a terrace for relaxing and reading the papers, and bedrooms that are both chic and traditional, with crisp bathrooms. One sought-after room, the Queen’s Suite, has its own wig closet, while another has panelled walls hiding a secret passage reputedly used by eeing smugglers. Here, past and present live perfectly in-sync.

Doubles from £160 +44 (0)1730 816911; hshotels.co.uk

THE VINEYARD NEWBURY, BERKSHIRE

One man’s passion created this hotel. e man? Sir Peter Michael. His passion – wine. Celebrating the historic landmark of 25 years this year, e Vineyard in Stockcross is a spectacular wine destination, and a foodie one too. e Vineyard is not what you would expect from a luxury ve-star hotel – it’s relaxed, informal and contemporary, with a team that have individual personalities that shine through.

Drawing on its incredible cellar of more than 30,000 bottles, the restaurant’s outstanding wine list is guaranteed to keep you busy, while the incredible creations from executive chef Tom Scade and his new ve-course tasting menu will literally blow you away. Ever evolving, e Vineyard’s spa has recently collaborated with Irene Forte Skincare, a brand that prides itself on it sustainable ethos and zero waste products.

An avid art collector, Sir Peter has lled the hotel with paintings and sculpture, both in the plush public rooms and 49 bedrooms, each named after an iconic wine. e Grand Suites are the epitome of luxury and there are rooms in the house for furry friends, too. It’s only an hour from London… but a million miles from ordinary.

Doubles from £219

+44 (0)1635 528770; the-vineyard.co.uk

LONDON

Uplifting, yet exhausting. Enthralling, yet frustrating. The capital offers multitudinous experiences, yet never fails to cast its unique spell on visitors old and new

The City Never Sleeps by Barry Mayes (London). LPOTYA: Collection 15 (Ilex Press, £35)

CITY OF DREAMS

London’s hospitality star still burns the brightest, says Fiona Duncan

Feeling blue? Fed up with the risk of recession, the cost-of-living crisis, political upheaval, strikes and all the other problems that currently beset our country? Cheer up: think of London.

While Britain’s fortunes are in doubt, the trajectory of our capital city continues steadily upwards. It’s a world city for sure, many say the world’s greatest city; a recent survey carried out by global real estate and tourism consultancy Resonance has named it just that, trouncing Paris, New York, Singapore, Tokyo and the rest.

For locals and visitors alike, London throbs with life, a place of culture, innovation, good living and endless possibility. If you think only of escaping abroad this year, think again and consider staying put and allowing London to work its magic. Treat yourselves to a London hotel and you’ll nd enough glamour, con dence, charisma and fun to sweep you through the rest of the year.

Our capital’s bounce back from the shuttered, desolate days of the pandemic has been swift and consummate. e City remains a nancial powerhouse; hotels that had been just about surviving are now thriving, fuelled by tourists attracted – it must be said – by the weak pound; successful restaurants are

packed; theatre audiences, if not quite back to pre-pandemic levels, are healthy and growing and our role as a global cultural hub remains unmatched. But there’s something extra that has buoyed London up and made sure that its star still shines bright: this truly multicultural city of 11 million souls, famed for its history, architecture, food culture and theatre, its parks and gardens and distinctive neighbourhoods, is a magnet for the rich, the very rich and the unimaginably wealthy. Like it or not, it is they who are fuelling, for better or worse, London’s prominence among global cities and who are changing the face of the stately old lady.

Long-standing Londoners, myself included, have to pause and recalibrate when gazing on the soaring, ever-changing skyline and lavish redevelopments such as the Shard, Canary Wharf, Chelsea Barracks, King’s Cross, Nine Elms and Battersea Power Station. ey wouldn’t exist without lavish foreign investment; indeed, some see London becoming more of an investment market than a place where people actually live, an island for tourists, absentee billionaires, oligarchs and Saudi princes whose multi-million pound properties stand empty for much of the year. It’s as if the city had become a bank, some

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; JOSHUA ATKINS

FROM ABOVE: London’s beloved landmarks; the opulent Vesper Bar at The Dorchester

warn, where the towers of luxury apartments are simply blocks of gold.

All global cities attract wealth, but none more so than London. e Qatari royal family own more real estate here than our own royal family, with some quintessentially British landmarks to their name such as Harrods, Claridge’s and most of the Shard.

eir own London homes are, no doubt, contemporary palaces. But if most of us are never going to see inside the extraordinary central London residences, with their car parks, state-of-the-art gyms and swimming pools, of the mega-rich, then we can at least enjoy the luxury hotels, open to all, that their money has allowed to proliferate. ere’s no greater treat than a night in a riverside suite at the Savoy, owned by Prince Al-Waleed bin Talal, or you might choose the Dorchester (the Sultan of Brunei) or Claridge’s, the Berkeley or the Connaught (all Qatari).

As if to prove that London’s starry attraction, certainly where hotels are concerned, a Britishbased billionaire’s plaything opening this summer, is set to eclipse all the rest. Owned by the Hinduja brothers and managed by Ra es, the historic Old War O ce in Whitehall, a magni cent Ministry of Defence building previously closed to the public, is set to become a magnet for Londoners and visitors alike, with 120 rooms and suites, a Guerlain spa, vast ballroom and no less than nine restaurants and three bars. Of course, for the owners, the real pro t lies in the 85 residences, selling from £5 million to £30 million apiece, that form the major part of the redevelopment. It’s all about real estate these days.

But if Ra es London at the OWO is destined to be most glamorous new opening this year, it’s by no means the only one. Hot on its heels is the Peninsula, newly constructed on Hyde Park Corner and featuring an expansive

o -street courtyard in the style of a classic English garden; the Emory, an oblong of plate glass modernism in Knightsbridge from the Maybourne Group; the Mandarin Oriental Mayfair; 1 Hotel Mayfair; Sun Street in the City; the Broadwick Soho (designed by Martin Brudnizki); Art’otel Battersea; Ruby Zoe; the Chelsea Townhouse from Iconic Luxury Hotels… the list goes on.

e velvet touch of utmost luxury is felt nowhere more keenly than in Belgravia and Knightsbridge. Five-star hotels abound (the Peninsula and Emory are joining the Wellesley, the Berkeley, the Lanesborough, the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, the Hari and the Goring) and destination restaurants – Marcus, Muse, Petrus, Amaya, Dinner – bristle with Michelin stars. Not so very long ago, the area was one of elds and watercress beds until, in 1820, owner Robert Grosvenor commissioned the brilliant omas Cubitt to develop the site. anks to his streets and squares of classy, well-built homes, marshy Five Fields, as the area was known, became the most desirable neighbourhood in London.

From Belgravia, head for the ames, which has never looked more polished. Stand on the Millennium Bridge and the world metropolis that is London is spread out before you, the old and the new, the 17th century and the 21st, St Paul’s cathedral and the Shard and all its satellite skyscrapers, with those of Canary Wharf beyond. It’s a thrilling sight.

But if the injection of glass and steel and wealth-induced buzz is what makes London feel starry these days, the city’s real strength, its permanent, unwavering appeal is something di erent, less ephemeral and far more characterful: its web of intimate neighbourhoods and villages, including Belgravia, Knightsbridge and Mayfair but many others besides, each with a distinctive character, interspersed with generous swathes of park. Lose them, and London, however wealthy, would instantly lose its appeal. n

FROM ABOVE: The pool at the OWO; the new 1 Hotel Mayfair; a colourful suite in the Art’Hotel Battersea

11 CADOGAN GARDENS CHELSEA, SW3

Proudly individual and boutique, 11 Cadogan Gardens is the only Relais & Châteaux hotel in London. Expect ve-star luxury, quirky design, and a playful vibe. Spread across four interconnected redbrick Victorian townhouses, it has 56 guest rooms, including 22 suites that are as memorable as they are luxurious (one is especially amboyant and a little risqué). All have high ceilings and a wealth of natural light that oods through the bay windows. e hotel has a drawing room, the Chelsea Bar, and the popular Hans’ Bar & Grill, which has an all-day seasonal menu rooted in British produce –ideal locations for afternoon teas, late night cocktails, family breakfasts and everything in between. Looking for a little more privacy or a longer stay? Located a stone’s throw from the hotel, across the leafy garden square, are e Apartments by 11 Cadogan Gardens. Each oor features a one, two or threebedroom residence, o ering a true home from home in the heart of London. Summer 2023 will see the opening of the adjoining Chelsea Townhouse, a 35-bedroom addition that has been the subject of a sensitive restoration.

Doubles from £474 +44 (0)20 7730 7000; 11cadogangardens.com

BATTY LANGLEY’S SPITALFIELDS, E1

As you walk through the doors of this charming hotel, packed with character and Georgian detail, you feel as if you’re entering another era. In lively, gentri ed Spital elds, Batty Langley’s lives up to its unusual name.

Under the same ownership as the equally captivating Hazlitt’s and e Rookery (p94 & p101), it was inspired by the 18th-century architect and landscape gardener of the same name, who wrote guides to help his clients plan their houses and gardens in a grand style. e panelled interior, with its open res, countless books and ne paintings feels more like a private house than a hotel.

Cocooning their inhabitants in comfort and calm, the 29 bedrooms and suites are furnished with 17th and 18th-century carved oak beds or four-posters, heavy silk curtains and bathrooms with restored period ttings.

Nods to the 21st century are discreetly hidden. Your most di cult choice, though, will be which of the three warmly decorated sitting rooms to occupy. Our choice is e Tapestry Room, with an honesty bar stocked with local spirits and French doors that open onto a pretty courtyard.

Doubles from £325 +44 (0)20 7377 4390; battylangleys.com

THE BEAUMONT MAYFAIR,

W1

Overlooking a quiet garden square in the heart of Mayfair, e Beaumont has embodied the spirit of grand 1920s hotels – albeit on a more intimate scale – since it opened in 2014, with its chequerboard lobby oor, early 20th-century paintings and gleaming antiques. Social spaces on the recently renovated ground oor include the classy Magritte Bar; the award-winning afternoon tea lounge, Gatsby’s Room; and a terrace for light, al-fresco lunches and suppers among lush greenery. e striking muralled Colony Grill Room has a clubby atmosphere with red leather banquettes where guests can feast on timeless transatlantic classics. e 50 Art Deco-themed rooms and 22 suites have all been freshened up by French architect and interior designer ierry Despont (and another 29 will be added in an adjoining building later this year). All are handsome and supremely comfortable: the showstopper is Antony Gormley’s Room, a three-storey extension and public artwork on the outside, an extraordinary one-bedroom suite of dark-fumed oak within. Try the hammam treatments and spa, inspired by the Turkish baths at London’s RAC Club and the original New York YMCA.

Doubles from £520 +44 (0)20 7499 1001; thebeaumont.com

BEAVERBROOK TOWN HOUSE

CHELSEA, SW1

is sister hotel to Beaverbook in Surrey (see p67) opened two years ago in a pair of restored Georgian townhouses and quickly became a not-so-secret Sloane Street hit. e ground oor is all about socialising: sipping cocktails in the Art Deco-detailed Sir Frank’s Bar (named after Sir Frank Lowe, creative director and curator of the capital-inspired artwork that is displayed, gallery-style, throughout) and tucking into sensational Japanese food in e Fuji Grill where traditional sushi and sashimi is served up alongside Beaverbrook signatures such as Popcorn Shrimp Tempura. ere’s also e Butter y Room, a private dining room for up to 12 guests, that o ers access to an intimate, pretty terrace. Upstairs, each suite is named after a London theatre and has framed programmes of past productions on the walls. ey are designed by Nicola Harding (she was behind the rooms at Beaverbrook’s Garden House) who has combined her trademark cosy fabrics and printed textiles with modern four-posters, fringed velvet sofas and bold contemporary colour palettes. Ask at reception and sta will lend you the key to Cadogan Gardens opposite for peaceful afternoon meandering.

Doubles from £510

+44 (0)20 3988 6611; beaverbrooktownhouse.co.uk

BINGHAM RIVERHOUSE RICHMOND

Bingham Riverhouse began life as two Georgian townhouses and from 1899-1910 it was home to the poets Katherine Bradley and Edith Cooper. ‘I have rubbed myself against nature’s great warm hand,’ wrote Katherine, after a bout of gardening, ‘in a spirit of pagan delight’. Today, the friendly sta serve food, conjured up by Steven Edwards (winner of MasterChef: e Professionals) in the parlour, with its striking modern art and verdant views, and the library with its wall lined rows of nicely dog-eared old Penguin paperbacks. e drawing room bar has a spacious feel of a country house kitchen.  e Riverhouse has its own neighbourhood members club: including a tranquil ameside workspace, incredible events and private members space for its ever-growing community of local, likeminded individuals. ere are 15 rooms, with handmade Naturalmat beds and some with copper freestanding baths. But it’s the bucolic Richmond setting that adds that extra magic: the river is just at the end of the terrace with its pretty walled garden, and there’s a towpath by the water where rowing boats splash by all day.

Doubles from £135 +44 (0)20 8940 0902; binghamriverhouse.com

BROWN’S HOTEL

MAYFAIR, W1

Archetypally British, with a hint of the unexpected, Brown’s was founded in 1837 by Lord Byron’s butler as London’s rst hotel. Today, this ve-star delight is part of the Rocco Forte Hotels umbrella, with rooms and suites curated by Olga Polizzi for her brother, the brand’s founder and namesake. e Kipling Suite, for instance, pays tribute to Rudyard Kipling who penned e Jungle Book while staying here, while the new Sir Paul Smith Suite features custom furniture, hand-picked artworks and soft furnishings from the designer’s debut home collection. Find afternoon tea in e Drawing Room, where original wood panelling complements wallpaper of a Hogarthian 19th-century London. e Donovan Bar, in honour of photographer Terence Donovan, has a ‘Once Upon a Time’ cocktail menu by Salvatore Calabrese inspired by past guests, from AA Milne to Winston Churchill. Meanwhile, Charlie’s at Brown’s, helmed by head chef Adam Byatt of Michelin-starred Trinity, o ers a seasonal menu and live music including jazz on Sunday evenings. ere’s a luxurious subterranean spa with indulgent Irene Forte products too.

Doubles from £800

+44 (0)20 7493 6020; roccofortehotels.com

THE CADOGAN, A BELMOND HOTEL

CHELSEA, SW1

A standout on Sloane Street, e Cadogan’s sleek and glamorous good looks may recall well-heeled neighbouring Knightsbridge, but its many literary and artistic accents mean that boho Chelsea is in here too. ere are bold checked uniforms that reference Mary Quant, books and author talks curated by beloved Chelsea bookshop John Sandoe, specially commissioned art from young artists, and recollections of Oscar Wilde (famously arrested here) and his friend Lillie Langtry, whose adjacent house now forms a private entrance for hotel guests and a dining room of the caférestaurant, e LaLee. O ering delightful European dishes, the sophisticated menu, which features the very best of the season, re ects the re ned tastes that seduced Lillie on her travels. e Cadogan rst opened in 1887, but a recent makeover made the bedrooms and suites stylish yet homely, all velvet, silk, wood, marble and chrome, with circular tables doubling as desks and statement paintings from female British artists. It took its inspiration from the private gardens opposite – and so can you, as guests get keys, a wonderful perk.

Doubles from £750 +44 (0)20 7048 7141; belmond.com

CORINTHIA LONDON

WESTMINSTER, SW1

A luxury hotel for the 21st century, with the river and central London at its door. It doesn’t matter which entrance you use –Northumberland Avenue or Whitehall Place – you’ll be struck by the wow-factor elegance of the Corinthia’s Crystal Moon Lounge, lit by a dramatic Baccarat chandelier and a must for afternoon tea. Built in the 1880s as the Metropole Hotel and later home to government departments, it opened in its present incarnation in 2011 after a superlavish re t. Now there’s plenty to impress: modern British cuisine at e Northall; Michelin-starred chef Tom Kerridge’s rst London venture, Kerridge’s Bar & Grill; al-fresco drinking and dining in e Garden; and new cocktail and champagne bar, Velvet. Corinthia London also boasts some of the city’s most spacious hotel bedrooms and a multi award-winning spa covering. It includes a state-of-the-art tness centre, sleep pods, an amphitheatre sauna, a vitality pool and a Lab Room, where regenerative therapies and diagnostics take place as part of a new partnership with the London Regenerative Institute.

Doubles from £1,000

+44 (0)20 7930 8181; corinthia.com

Best For… Royal-Inspired Escapes theLIST

The British hotels with a royal connection.

By MARTHA DAVIES

3

Coworth Park

ASCOT

Here, the royal connections go all the way back to 1066, when Edward the Confessor gave the land to Westminster Abbey. In 1879 and 1883 the future Edward VII and Queen Alexandra were guests while they attended Ascot races. The Georgian manor was also The Duke of Sussex’s hotel of choice before his wedding to Meghan in 2018. dorchestercollection.com

1 The Goring

LONDON

Numerous prestigious guests have graced the halls of The Goring in the 113 years since its opening. Winston Churchill held meetings with allied leaders here during World War II, and foreign dignitaries met here during Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation in 1953. If you’re searching for a hotel with a remarkable story, look no further. thegoring.com

4

Middlethorpe Hall & Spa

YORK

Step inside Middlethorpe Hall and you’ll find the White Rose suite, which is named after the symbol adopted by the first Duke of York, fourth surviving son of King Edward III. Check in for a holiday packed with history. middlethorpe.com

5

Askham Hall

PENRITH

This grand country hotel was visited annually by none other than Prince Philip, who partook in the renowned Lowther Show, a competitive carriage driving event. If you fancy a stay in the suite that Prince Philip himself booked every year, choose the Admiral’s Room, which features a magnificent superking-sized four poster bed. askhamhall.co.uk

Hartwell House & Spa

AYLESBURY

In a previous life, Hartwell House was home to King John, who was crowned in 1199 following his brother, Richard the Lionheart. The present manor was finished in 1617, and Louis XVIII, King of France, held court here while in exile between 1809 and 1814. hartwell-house.com

7

The Grand Hotel Birmingham BIRMINGHAM

From Winston Churchill to King George VI, many notable figures have walked the halls of The Grand Hotel Birmingham. The place is brimming with history – but after a recent £50 million renovation, you’ll find plenty of modern touches, too. thegrandhotelbirmingham.co.uk

The Lygon Arms

THE COTSWOLDS

King Charles I met supporters on the grounds of the Lygon Arms during the English Civil War, and Oliver Cromwell also stayed here in 1651. Other guests included King Edward VII, who visited in 1905, and his grandson, future King Edward VIII, in 1913. lygonarmshotel.co.uk

The Seafood Restaurant CORNWALL

This charming seaside spot was visited in 2015 by King Charles III and the Queen Consort, then Duke and Duchess of Cornwall, who met with the Stein family to celebrate 40 years of its business. Visit and walk in the footsteps of the royals. rickstein.com

Knock House

ISLE OF MULL

Knock House dates back to the 15th century and was originally connected to King James IV of Scotland. Later, it became home to a number of Marquesses and Dukes including John Marquess of Lorne, the 9th Duke of Argyll, who married Queen Victoria’s fourth daughter, Princess Louise, in 1871. benmoreestate.co.uk/knock-house

The Spread Eagle

WEST SUSSEX

As one of England’s oldest coaching inns, The Spread Eagle certainly boasts a fascinating story. In 1533, the building was bought by Henry VIII’s Lord High Admiral, Sir William Fitzwilliam. Its handsome Queen’s Suite, with carved four poster, once reputedly hosted Elizabeth I. hshotels.co.uk/spread-eagle

The Dorchester LONDON

William the Conquerer gifted the lands that are now Mayfair to Westminster Abbey in the 11th century. Since the modern hotel was opened in 1931, it has been synonymous with royalty, with its 1940s charity balls attended by members of the royal family. In 1990, it was reopened after refurbishment by HRH Prince Philip. dorchestercollection.com

Langar Hall NOTTINGHAM

This illustrious estate lies 12 miles outside of Nottingham, near Sherwood forest, and has a rich history filled with intrigue and battles – it played a significant role in the English Civil War, with Charles I’s brother staying in nearby Wiverton Hall, then connected to Langar by underground tunnels. langarhall.com

THE DIXON LONDON BRIDGE, SE1

Once home to rascals and rogues, the Tower Bridge Magistrates Court has been skilfully restored into e Dixon hotel. Built in 1905 and named after its architect John Dixon Butler, this grande dame is celebrating a new chapter as part of the Marriott’s inspiring Autograph Collection. All of the key Edwardian details remain – however there is now a solid dose of contemporary, with an edgy and eclectic design inspired by the culture of SE1. ere are 193 stylish rooms and suites – many have original features with high ceilings and decorative coving, others are more modern with blackened steel and oak accents. Wake yourself up with a co ee, made from the hotel’s very own co ee brand, Shakedown, brewed just steps away from the jail cells. e restaurant Provisioners serves contemporary Italian classics, with pizza, pasta and Prosecco. For further delicious tipples, there’s the impressive Courtroom Bar, its walls decorated with historic mugshots of people who passed through the dock. And while it’s easy not to leave, there are some great spots nearby, with the Tower of London, Maltby Street Market and Shakespeare’s Globe all within walking distance.

Doubles from £199 +44 (0) 203 959 2900; thedixon.co.uk

THE DORCHESTER

MAYFAIR, W1 is legendary British hotel, which recently unveiled the results of an extensive renovation, has a real sense of self: it’s fun and magical, managing to retain ties to the past while keeping pace with the present. It is magni cent during the festive season, when e Promenade comes alive with sparkling Christmas trees (in other months, you can enjoy a vibrant dining experience in this sociable setting at the heart of the hotel). e Dorchester has an unrivalled selection of restaurants and bars, including modern British favourites at e Grill by Tom Booton, contemporary French cuisine at three Michelin-starred Alain Ducasse and authentic at Cantonese China Tang. e awardwinning team of alchemists dream up rst class cocktails in Vesper Bar, and the Artists’ Bar is a glittering spot for champagne, seafood and live entertainment. e spa o ers treatments by Valmont, ishga and Carol Joy London, while Cake & Flowers combines two of life’s most splendid delights in the prettiest of boutiques with its own entrance on the famous forecourt.  Bedrooms and suites are everything you’d expect from this Park Lane legend: classically opulent and exquisitely cosseting.

Doubles from £750 +44 (0)20 7629 8888; dorchestercollection.com

THE GORING BELGRAVIA, SW1

Impeccably English with a subtle streak of wit and wonder. Opened in 1910, it is grand and digni ed but never takes itself too seriously, possessing what so many smart hotels lack: a sense of humour. Where else does Noël Coward sing Mad Dogs & Englishmen while your call is being connected? Its rooms are world-renowned as some of the most luxurious in the city, pairing great comfort with undeniable wow-factor glamour. e Royal Suite’s master bedroom walls are lined with the same silk that graced the rst-class dining room of RMS Titanic, while the silk in the bathroom is a match for that adorning the rone Room at Buckingham Palace. Its huge private garden – larger than Wimbledon’s Centre Court – is e Goring’s secret glory. An exquisite oral oasis, over which many of the rooms and suites look out, it’s a soothing haven amid London’s hubbub, perfect for a glass of wine or a bite to eat, while the Michelin-starred Dining Room restaurant remains a favourite address for the nest ne dining. Head to the elegant Goring Cocktail Bar for an after-dinner digestif, accompanied by the live pianist.

Doubles from £800 +44 (0)20 7396 9000; thegoring.com

THE HARI, LONDON BELGRAVIA, SW1

Walking through the leafy streets of Belgravia, one of London’s smartest neighbourhoods, there’s one building that can’t help but catch the eye. e Hari’s striking façade, navy and glass, is adorned with cascading foliage and lush topiary, and is a taste of the peaceful sanctuary visitors will experience when they enter its doors. Laidback luxury permeates this boutique retreat, with 85 designer bedrooms including 14 suites, all decidedly chic with plush velvet upholstery, sleek marble bathrooms and contemporary art from the likes of Tracey Emin and Mario Testino. Art has long been at the centre of e Hari, and includes its newly launched annual art prize, in collaboration with A Space For Art, which has curated the hotel’s public areas since 2016. Enveloped in crawling ivy, the Garden Terrace is a hidden gem, perfect for a lazy lunch al fresco or afternoon aperitif, and with its retractable roof and cosy heaters, it’s the ideal spot come rain or shine. Il Pampero restaurant’s Italian-inspired menu is full of delectable homemade pasta dishes. All this just a stone’s throw from Hyde Park, Buckingham Palace, and the Royal Albert Hall, as well as the city’s most prestigious shopping districts.

Doubles from £490

+44 (0)20 7858 0100; thehari.com

HAZLITT’S SOHO, W1

Hazlitt’s is the real deal: as genuine, amusing and revealing a hotel as you could hope for, especially in bustling Soho. It’s named after the radical essayist and master of English prose, William Hazlitt. He died in poverty in 1830 at 6 Frith Street, one of three adjoining townhouses that the owners, experts on the Georgian era, fashioned into Hazlitt’s in 1986. A fourth building behind was converted to create a sitting room with an honesty bar and an additional eight bedrooms, reached by a lift. As be ts an establishment with such literary connections, the hotel is popular with authors, who leave signed copies of their works when they depart. e sloping, creaking oorboards have been retained and the rooms, decorated with antiques, busts and paintings, are individually furnished, with splendid bathtubs and Victorian ttings. Like the rooms in its distinctive sister establishments, Batty Langley’s and e Rookery (p86 & p101), they are delightfully di erent from other London hotels. And don’t forget to greet Sir Godfrey, the hotel’s resident cat, who still hasn’t checked out after 13 years. Doubles from £325 +44 (0)20 7434 1771; hazlittshotel.com

HENRY’S TOWNHOUSE MARYLEBONE, LONDON

Set in the former home of Jane Austen’s brother Henry, this discreet townhouse hotel is a home-from-home in Marylebone that also feels like a smart members’ club (you can take over the whole place if you wish). Full of Georgian glamour, original period features and sophisticated yet cosy spaces, it is the result of a collaboration between the owners and in-demand interior designer Russell Sage. Seven sumptuous bedrooms, all named after Jane Austen’s relatives, come with four poster beds, roll-top baths, oil paintings and antiques. Breakfast is served at the refectory table in Monsieur Halavant’s Pantry Kitchen (it’s also the spot for meetings and private dinners for up to 14) while Jane’s Sitting Room – reportedly where she penned some of Sense and Sensibility – is ideal for afternoon tea or simply curling up with a book. Don’t miss the rst- oor landing carriage snug, based on a railway carriage, where you can squirrel away for a glass or wine, or the outdoor terrace for morning co ee looking out over the neighbourhood below.

Doubles from £545 B&B henrystownhouse.co.uk

HOTEL CAFÉ ROYAL

LONDON

A landmark address on Regent Street for more than 150 years, this hotel has seen everyone from Oscar Wilde and David Bowie to Winston Churchill walk through its doors (the latter, apparently, came for the excellent steaks, stilton and champagne). Entering the sleek lobby – which was revamped in 2018 – a huge Murano glass chandelier hangs overhead. It sets the opulent tone for the rest of the interiors, including e Grill Room, a decadent, Grade II-listed gilded, mirrored space where afternoon tea is served to the sound of a pianist playing, and the speakeasy-like Green Bar that’s the ideal spot for pre-dinner cocktails. Rooms and suites feel calm, many panelled in English oak, with marble bathrooms and views of the bustling shopping street below. Equally sanctuary-like is the underground Akasha spa which o ers the full spectrum of wellness experiences from tness consultations to meditation and Watsu treatments. Don’t miss chef Alex Dilling’s tasting menus in the two Michelin-starred restaurant, which are a modern take on traditional French cuisine or Albert Adria’s Cakes & Bubbles, which specialises in tempting desserts and pastries.

Doubles from £795

+44 (0)20 7406 3333; hotelcaferoyal.com

INHABIT, QUEEN’S GARDENS

BAYSWATER, W2

Inhabit Hotels spans two urban wellness hotels in West London. Set within converted Victorian townhouses in Bayswater, Inhabit, Queen’s Gardens is a relaxing urban retreat, which opened in May 2022, taking healthy hotel stays to another level. Its sister hotel, on Southwick Street in Paddington, just certi ed as B Corp. Every detail has been carefully thought out with serene colour schemes, natural materials and nature-inspired artworks. Sustainable materials and the hotel’s work with social enterprises adds to its community feel. e 158 eclectic yet considered bedrooms are a fusion of contemporary Scandi style, Eastern philosophies and British design. ere are plenty of areas to hole up in – read a book in the peaceful library or indulge in a Gaia treatment in the subterranean wellness centre, Inhale at Inhabit. Guests can also enjoy daily yoga, pilates, guided meditation and the woodpanelled gym. e food hits all the right notes too. Inhabit has partnered with Devon wellness retreat Yeotown, which has curated a menu of inventive meat-free cuisine – just another example of why Inhabit is fast becoming a force to be reckoned with.

Doubles from £280

+44 (0)20 7479 2333; inhabithotels.com

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theLIST

Best For…

Spa Escapes

There’s nothing better for body and mind than a spoiling spa sojourn.

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By OLIVIA EMILY

Lime Wood

NEW FOREST

It’s all natural wellbeing at Herb House Spa, where all its three floors inviting the forest surroundings indoors. A sauna, hydro pool, Mud House, outdoor hot pool, and ten treatment rooms all instil calm and serenity, while a rooftop gym and indoor lap pool await the more energised. limewoodhotel.co.uk

Whatley Manor

THE COTSWOLDS

Reset and recharge at Whatley Manor’s Aquarius Spa, with its experiential thermal suite, hydrotherapy pool, heated stone recliners and salt scrub showers, with treatments utilising Gaia’s organic and beneficial products. whatleymanor.com

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St Moritz

CORNWALL

The only non-Soho House Cowshed Spa in the UK, this rustic-luxe spa brings a satisfying mixture of tranquility and indulgence, drawing on products with botanical ingredients straight from a country garden, with a choice of scents before your treatment begins. stmoritzhotel.co.uk

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Devonshire Arms

YORKSHIRE

The Secret Spa here epitomises the spa retreat: nestle into your private bell tent (complete with complimentary refreshments) and gaze across the Yorkshire Dales before hopping sauna, steam room and hydrotherapy pool at your leisure. devonshirehotels.co.uk

5 Bailiffscourt

WEST SUSSEX

Drawing on nature, this Sussex barninspired spa pulls the outdoors in through expansive windows. Limber up in the heated indoor and outdoor pools, take it easy in the relaxation rooms, and then indulgent in a restorative Temple Spa treatment. hshotels.co.uk/bailiffscourt

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Heckfield Place

HAMPSHIRE

Inhabit

LONDON

Take a breather… Inhale at Inhabit centres wellness across four key pillars: calm, balance, awaken and strengthen. Expect a soothing subterranean spa, with a gym, yoga, pilates and meditation studio, and tranquil treatment rooms offering organic Gaia treatments. queensgardens. inhabithotels.com

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Beaverbrook

SURREY

Nurture mind, body and soul at Beaverbook’s spa, where contemporary artwork inspired by nature is enhanced by vibrant furnishings and dappled light pouring through stained glass windows. Gaze across the Surrey Hills from the outdoor pool before your holistic, nurturing treatment. beaverbrook.co.uk

Corinthia

LONDON

Espa Life, Corinthia’s wellness spa, is rooted in restorative treatments, utilising the latest technology and science with ancient holistic methods to provide an innovative wealth of treatments, rituals and therapies. corinthia.com/london

Chewton Glen

HAMPSHIRE

A proper spa with superb facilities, you can easily while away a whole day dedicated to just you – in the indoor and outdoor pool, the hydrotherapy pool, the hot tub and a vast array of top-notch treatments with brands such as Oskia and Natura Bissé. chewtonglen.com

Dormy House Hotel THE COTSWOLDS

Feel fabulous at Dormy House Hotel’s House Spa, where an indoor-outdoor concept eases you between soothing therapies, from the serene pool to the terrace hot tub and Scandi-style thermal suite. dormyhouse.co.uk

The Retreat At Elcot Park

BERKSHIRE

With a recommended three hours’ visiting time, disconnect and return to simpler times at The Bothy By Wildsmith, hidden through Heckfield Place’s walled garden. A nature-fuelled, healing experience awaits. heckfieldplace.com 11

Relax, refresh and revive at Signet Spa, where residents can switch off in the hydrotherapy pool or salt flotation pod, detox Scandi style in Himalayan salt sauna, breathe deep in the aroma steam room, and indulge in a menu of ILA Spa treatments. retreatelcotpark.com

LIME TREE HOTEL LONDON, SW1

It’s rare to nd an a ordable hotel in central London; even more so in smart Belgravia. But the Lime Tree is just that, and what’s more, it has the air of a place in the country, with painted furniture and breakfast menus chalked jauntily on blackboards. Matt and Charlotte Goodsall took over the guesthouse, which is spread across two Grade II-listed townhouses, from Charlotte’s parents more than a decade ago. After a major six-month refurbishment in 2020, this delightful bolthole now has 26 simple, stylish and homely bedrooms, each with soothing colour palettes and pretty geometric patterned cushions, and Bramley goodies in the bathroom. ere’s also a cosy guest lounge and e Buttery, a café-style restaurant (open to the public) full of chatter where friendly sta serve up delicious breakfasts and an all-day brunch menu that includes homemade shrimp cakes, spicy shakshuka and Nutella French toast. When the weather allows, relaxing outside in the peaceful walled garden feels like having discovered a magical secret oasis, a whole world away from the heady bustle of nearby Sloane Square.

Doubles from £180 +44 (0)20 7730 8191; limetreehotel.co.uk

THE LONDONER LEICESTER SQUARE

When this super-boutique hotel opened in 2021, it was a much-needed boost for Leicester Square. Six years in the making and spread across 16 storeys, it’s all bellsand-whistles – from the two-screen cinema to the vast ballroom and the subterranean wellness oor where the tranquil pool is surrounded by cabanas (ideal for escaping the West End bustle). Sleek, serene interiors with a neutral palette come courtesy of international design studio Yabu Pushelberg (and those staying in the hotel also have access to e Residence, three guest-only socialising spaces). ere are also a handful of must-try bars and restaurants, including French ne dining Whitcomb’s with in uences from the Mediterranean; Joshua’s Tavern, inspired by 18th-century artist Joshua Reynolds, which specialises in terroir-led gins; and e Stage, which is the place for a grown-up afternoon tea or glass of champagne (there’s often live music at weekends). Perhaps the biggest buzz, though, is 8 at e Londoner, the izakaya rooftop bar with a terrace o ering top-drawer cityscape views.

Doubles from £ 555 thelondoner.com

LOST PROPERTY

ST PAUL’S, EC4L

e wonderfully named Lost Property is the latest addition to London’s buzzy Square Mile. Just 100 metres from St Paul’s Cathedral, this one-of-a-kind hotel, part of Hilton’s Curio Collection, is spot-on for both business and pleasure, with many of London’s landmarks a short stroll away. e interiors celebrate lost craftsmanship and innovative design, echoing the architectural forms found in the cathedral and neighbouring streets. It’s a visual spectacle – topped o with whimsical artworks, eclectic sculptures and eccentric touches such as ‘lost’ bowler hats decorating the space. e 145 sleek rooms feature marble bathrooms and industrial accents, with colour pops of red and blue re ecting the city’s heritage. Ask for a room with a cathedral view. e restaurant Found is equally impressive, using freshly foraged food from local markets to create hearty British dishes and French classics (don’t miss the coq au vin). But it’s the bespoke marbletopped bar, crafted from bright blue resin with stunning Murano glass pendants above, which will seriously stop you in your tracks – with colourful and theatrical cocktails to match. All in all, it’s fabulous.

Doubles from £199 +44 (0)20 4553 0555; lostpropertyhotel.com

MANDARIN ORIENTAL HYDE PARK

LONDON

e celebrated Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group is a byword for luxury and outstanding service – and this original London outpost is no exception. A multimillion-pound renovation of the redbrick Edwardian building was completed to designs by Joyce Wang ve years ago. She cited the beauty of Hyde Park, the hotel’s royal heritage and the glamour of the early 20th century’s golden age of travel as her inspiration. e reception areas have striking glass chandeliers that represent the di erent stages of an opening ower, and carpets that recall fallen leaves. e Art Deco-in uenced bedrooms are sanctuaries of calm, with curated artwork and bespoke furniture. New spa o erings include advanced facials in partnership with Oskia and Biologique Recherche, holistic health workshops and nutritional consultations with Clinique La Prairie, and the BodySpace Momentum Studio. For dining, there’s two Michelin-star Dinner by Heston Blumenthal and, the latest addition, e Aubrey, a Japanese restaurant, elevated izakaya and cocktail bar. Fans take note: the launch of Mandarin Oriental Mayfair is set to be one of the most exciting hotel openings of the year.

Doubles from £870

+44 (0)20 7235 2000; mandarinoriental.com

THE MAYFAIR TOWNHOUSE MAYFAIR, W1

Located on Half Moon Street, alongside Piccadilly, e Mayfair Townhouse sits across 15 Georgian townhouses, seven of which are listed. Rich in history and once a known haunt for colourful characters, it evokes a debonair Oscar-Wilde-meetsAlice-in-Wonderland aesthetic. Touches of whimsy combine with practicality in the 172 individually designed guestrooms and suites which range from cosy cabins to a Garden Suite that opens onto a walled courtyard garden, or the lavish Signature Suites with their panoramic views of London’s vibrant West End. e Dandy Bar is the heart and soul of e Townhouse; an intimate and sophisticated cocktail bar where style meets decadence, while e Lower Ground is a vibrant space to work, connect and eat. An expertly curated collection of over 550 pieces of art, including a Swarovski crystal peacock sculpture, is woven seamlessly throughout the hotel. Stepping out into the heart of Mayfair, there is a wealth of restaurants, boutiques, art galleries and museums on the doorstep; a short walk leads to Shepherd Market, Green Park and Buckingham Palace. Doubles from £515 +44 (0)20 8138 3400; themayfairtownhouse.com

ONE ALDWYCH

COVENT GARDEN, WC2

Housed in a beautiful heritage building that was once home to e Morning Post newspaper, One Aldwych is brilliantly positioned on the edge of bustling Covent Garden. Contemporary yet soothing suites and bedrooms feel like a real sanctuary and come with sweeping views of the cityscape below. Signature restaurant Indigo from chef Dominic Teague celebrates British producers in seasonal delicious dishes such as nutty beetroot salad or catch of the day, served in crisp beer batter. e Lobby Bar with its extensive list of the coolest craft cocktails is an institution; the Charlie and the Chocolate Factory-themed afternoon tea is huge fun for all ages, featuring snozzberry jam and chocolate swudge milkshake. e concierge has the inside track on everything from the best brunch spots and hottest theatre tickets to must-visit exhibitions. Upon return, settle down in the library with its comfortable sofas and piles of beautiful books. And, for pampering – whether a refreshing swim, a pick-me-up facial or an invigorating massage – you can while away a few hours in the deeply cosseting health club and spa.

From £700 for a Superior Room

+44 (0)20 7300 1000; onealdwych.com

THE RITZ LONDON

LONDON

One of the most iconic hotels in the world, with an enviable location on London’s Piccadilly overlooking the royal Green Park. Opened in 1906 by hotelier César Ritz, e Ritz quickly became a favourite home-from-home for Hollywood stars and royalty alike. It was also the rst hotel to be awarded a Royal Warrant in 2002 for banqueting and catering services. Ideal for families and couples alike, guests today can choose between lavishly decorated Louis XVI-style rooms and suites. In the exquisite Michelin-starred Ritz Restaurant, with its sparkling chandeliers and marble columns, executive chef John Williams MBE uses the nest seasonal ingredients. His famed signature dishes include Cornish turbot, beef wellington and langoustine à la nage. Or choose the theatrical four-course Arts de la Table dinner menu which showcases the harmony between the kitchen and front of house teams through the guéridon style of service. Guests may also enjoy the legendary afternoon tea in the Palm Court complete with a resident pianist ( e Ritz even has a certi ed tea master) or spend the evening sipping cocktails in the intimate Art Deco Rivoli Bar.

Doubles from £825 +44 (0)20 7493 8181; theritzlondon.com

THE ROOKERY

CLERKENWELL, EC1

ose in the know in London don’t lay their heads in the centre of town – they swerve east to its most fashionable districts. Luckily, we know of secret abodes beyond the reach of hipsters and tech geeks. One such hideaway is the deliciously unique Rookery, set in the heart of gastronomic Clerkenwell.

After eating top-class grub and partying hard, you can retreat to one of its 33 quirky bedrooms, none of which is the same. Each, though, shares gorgeous Georgian detailing, polished brass metalwork in bathrooms, antiques aplenty and shelves bulging with real books. In the 1800s, Clerkenwell was teeming with thieves, tarts and ne’er-dowells. A rookery was universally understood to mean a criminal area and many of the rooms are named after those local characters of ill repute. And you won’t worry about the wonky oors or the lack of things like a spa or a gym as you enjoy the hotel’s calm and mannered atmosphere – a bit like that of a private club – as you settle in the drawing room or courtyard garden with the papers. Plus, you’re only a stone’s throw from St Paul’s Cathedral.

Doubles from £325

+44 (0)20 7336 0931; rookeryhotel.com

ROSEWOOD LONDON HOLBORN, WC1

With its winning combination of English heritage and contemporary sophistication, Rosewood London sits rmly in the highest echelons of the capital’s luxury hotels. e Grade II-listed Belle Époque building has the feel of a stylish London residence; guests enter a grand, wrought iron gated former carriage arch, leading to the hotel’s historic central courtyard with its majestic stone façades, while the Grand Pavonazzo marble staircase soars to a dizzying 166-foot cupola. Inside, the hotel is the work of two designers: Tony Chi created the 263 glamorous rooms and 45 suites, splendid Rose Bronze Gallery entrance and the jewel box Mirror Room, which serves an innovative Art Afternoon Tea inspired by London’s latest exhibitions. Meanwhile, Martin Brudnizki designed both Holborn Dining Room – a bustling British brasserie with a trendy gin bar –and the popular Scarfes Bar, its walls decorated with paintings by satirical artist Gerald Scarfe. Don’t miss Holborn Dining Room’s Pie Room, run by Head Pie Maker Nokx Majozi, who was also named one of the 100 Most In uential Women in Hospitality. Suites come with a dedicated butler, and service is faultless.

Doubles from £500 +44 (0)20 7781 8888; rosewoodhotels.com/london

ROYAL LANCASTER LONDON

LANCASTER GATE, W2 is mid-century hotel is a legend for all the right reasons – particularly after its extensive £80 million renovation in 2017, which took the stunning property to another level. A footstep from Hyde Park, its contemporary splendour wows as soon as you walk into the sleek lobby with its chic armchairs, stylish glass co ee tables and bold lighting. e Insta-perfect interiors continue into the 411 sumptuous classically-styled rooms and suites and marble bathrooms, not to mention the breathtaking views of the London skyline. e food leaves you spoilt for choice. Tuck into authentic cuisine in Nipa ai, conjured up by an all-female, all- ai kitchen, or a modern international menu at Tony Page at Island Grill. ose with a sweet tooth can enjoy an indulgent afternoon tea in Hyde Café and, for later in the day, the intimate Park Lounge Bar knocks out tempting cocktails. ere’s a 24/7 gym but rent a Royal Lancaster bicycle for a pootle around Hyde Park or to explore the city. Bring your four-legged friend along, too – the hotel o ers a Paw-Cierge dog-sitting service.

Doubles from £369 +44 (0)20 7551 6000; royallancaster.com

THE SAVOY

THE STRAND, WC2

Set back from the Strand behind its own private road, the Savoy is heralded by its iconic Art Deco sign and gold statue of Peter II, Count of Savoy, whose palace once stood here. Step into the marbled Edwardian front hall and the feeling is one of reassuring tradition mixed with bold and lavish statement, reinforced by the winter garden gazebo beyond in the ames Foyer – the heart of the hotel where afternoon tea is served. Each part of e Savoy has its own atmosphere, from the sophisticated American Bar, the oldest surviving cocktail bar in Britain, to the chic Beaufort Bar and from the splendid original Red Lift or ‘Ascending Room’ to the majestic sweep down to the River Restaurant. With a very tangible sense of history combining with an age-defying air of glamour, e Savoy remains pre-eminent amongst London’s grande dame hotels, and its restaurants, including the classic Grill and the intimate Restaurant 1890, all run by Gordon Ramsay, are superb. For the colourful past of Britain’s rst luxury hotel, blended with every contemporary comfort, look no further.

Doubles from £680 +44 (0)20 7836 4343; thesavoylondon.com

THE STANDARD, LONDON

KING’S CROSS, WC1

is is e Standard brand’s rst hotel outside America – and a brilliant one. Set in a unique Brutalist building in thronging King’s Cross, its hip vibe ts right in with this cool regenerating part of London. e retro interiors sing of the Seventies: geometric shapes, colourful lighting, inviting leather armchairs and cream shagpiles. ere are 266 bright rooms, from snug Cosy Cores (perfect for catching an early Eurostar) to the huge, terraced suites with outdoor bathtubs and spectacular views over St Pancras station or the city.  e three restaurants are excellent. Chef Peter Sanchez-Iglesias, previously of the Michelin-starred Casamia in Bristol, serves Mexican and Spanish-inspired avour-packed dishes such as gambas rojas, mangalitza pork and a dramatically di erent tortilla. Next door, Sweeties serves playful cocktails under a disco ball. Downstairs, laidback Isla triumphs with its zingy seasonal menu while hearty fare and tasty cocktails can be found at Double Standard. And don’t plan on an early night – there’s a DJ in the Library Lounge for seeing out the small hours. And if that wasn’t enough, the seasonal Summer rooftop boasts 360-views of London.

Doubles from £299

+44(0)20 3981 8888; standardhotels.com/london

THE COTSWOLDS

Come for the chocolate box cottages and pastoral bliss; stay for the glorious local produce, thoughtful restaurants, and majestic ruins

Arlington Row, Bibury by Matthew J Thomas. © Getty Images

THE BELL INN LANGFORD, OXFORDSHIRE

Cotswold born and bred, Peter Creed and Tom Noest have the perfect pedigree to run an authentic 16th century country pub with rooms: Tom as cook and Peter running front of house. ey reopened e Bell – a much-loved local inn in a picturesque village – in December 2017, and were garnering rave reviews within weeks. ‘I had not just the best mouthful of the year, but the best mouthful of my life,’ remarked food critic Giles Coren after he visited. It’s a real foodies’ pub, with a no-nonsense, ever-changing menu concentrating on locally sourced, fresh, hearty British dishes – pub classics, roasts and wood- red sh, vegetables and pizzas, served in a cosy, beamed and agstoned room. e eight stylish, renovated bedrooms – some above the pub, others on the ground oor – have king-size beds and knock-out bathrooms. You’ll be hard pushed to nd a better value or more laid-back Cotswold inn and arrangements can be made for guests to take part in a range of sports, from stalking and shing to clay pigeon, driven and rough shooting.

Doubles from £80 +44 (0)1367 860249; thebelllangford.com

CALCOT & SPA TETBURY, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

Set within 220 acres of rewilded countryside, Calcot suits many occasions – honeymoons, family gatherings, spa breaks, country weekends – with equal success. With roots going back to the 14th century, the present stone manor became a hotel in 1984 and is the agship of e Calcot Collection, a small, eclectic hotel group, which includes Lord Crewe Arms (p145) and e Painswick (p114). Since then, the surrounding farm buildings have been revived and brought into appropriate play over the years. Today, it has 34 cream-hued rooms, refreshed and reinvigorated, a show-stopping spa, e Barn for private events, an Ofsted registered crèche a restaurant and a café/cocktail bar Rooms in the manor house are designed with couples in mind, while family rooms and suites are in converted cottages and barns; deluxe suites have their own private garden. Linger over imaginative seasonal dishes in the new Brasseries (the Brecon venison lasagne is superb) or graze in e Hive café, which transforms into a buzzy cocktail bar at night. It’s also only a stone’s throw from Highgrove and Gatcombe Park if you’re after a dose of royalty.

Doubles from £264 +44 (0)1666 890391; calcot.co

THE CROWN INN ENSTONE CHIPPING NORTON, OXFORDSHIRE

Set between Chipping Norton and Woodstock, in the pretty, peaceful village of Church Enstone, the sister pub to the Kingham Plough and e Hare, Milton-under-Wychwood, makes a brilliant base for exploring the Cotswolds. e market towns of Moreton in Marsh, Stow on the Wold and Stratford-uponAvon are all nearby, as is Soho Farmhouse, while Bicester Village is 20-minutes’ drive away. Above the pub, owners Matt and Katie Beamish, o er ve individually decorated ensuite rooms. Some have original oak beams and traditional wooden bed frames; others feel more contemporary, with colour palettes that complement the countryside views. ere’s also a renovated, two-bedroom cottage next door. e Crown’s agstone oor bar, is cosy in winter, while the sun-trap walled garden is lovely in summer. Monthly changing modern British dishes champion the best local produce available: for instance, lamb shank served with winter greens and garlic mash, con t duck leg with butterbean and smoked lardon cassoulet, and Guinness and cheddar pie. Keep an eye out for guest ales too, such as those from Hook Norton Brewery just down the road.

Doubles from £130 +44(0)1608 677262; crowninnenstone.co.uk

DORMY HOUSE BROADWAY, WORCESTERSHIRE

Standing proud on the sprawling 400-acre Farncombe Estate is Dormy House. Overlooking the picture-postcard village of Broadway, this 17th century farmhouse turned boutique retreat boasts cosy corners, open replaces and agstone oors. Its 39 cheerful bedrooms and suites are the exemplar of quintessential country living with a touch of Scandinavian style. Dormy House is also home to an internationally renowned spa, o ering utter relaxation in the form of thermal suites, lavender infusion saunas and an outdoor reside hot tub. e interactive 12-seat chef’s table restaurant, MO, boldly puts Dormy House on the Cotswolds’ food map, with chefs and a sommelier guiding diners through eight innovative courses. e Back Garden restaurant o ers a seasonal menu of local, high welfare meat and responsibly cultivated veg, whilst e Shed provides the perfect spot for a nightcap. You’re free to explore the beautiful Farncombe Estate, or a short drive takes you to the village of Broadway with its exquisite houses, manicured lawns, and art galleries. For spectacular views of the countryside, a short hike will take you to Broadway Tower.

Doubles from £309 +44(0)1386 852711; dormyhouse.co.uk

ELLENBOROUGH PARK CHELTENHAM, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

An outstanding address on the outskirts of Cheltenham, Ellenborough Park is an immaculately restored Cotswold-stone manor, parts of which date back to the 15th century. In the 1830s, it was home to the Earl of Ellenborough, former governor general of India – the in uence of his travels is visible in the Great Hall and Minstrels’ Gallery. Legendary British designer Nina Campbell reinvented the interior, and this year, all 61 bedrooms have been refreshed with a country chic style that combines antique furniture, rich fabrics, heavenly beds and roll top baths. ere’s an outdoor pool which is heated all year around, and an intimate spa, as well as a private path leading to Cheltenham Racecourse. Food is contemporary, serving British classics with a twist. Spring and summer months see an al fresco dining delight in quirky dining carriages, decked Cedar Pavilion and sunny Taittinger Terrace. Guests can enjoy a glass of house Champagne from the converted horse box trailer bar while watching the sunset across the racecourse. Dogs are very welcome, with treats and their own wash area – e Paw Spa.

Doubles from £249 +44 (0)1242 545454; ellenboroughpark.com

THE FEATHERED NEST COUNTRY INN NETHER WESTCOTE, OXFORDSHIRE

A beacon among the new breed of converted inns, e Feathered Nest is as comfortable, stylish and well-equipped as a ne hotel, but smaller and more relaxed. Attractively laid out and furnished, this handsome property is triumphing under owner, Adam Taylor. e four countri ed bedrooms, each with breathtaking views of the Evenlode Valley, blend the practical with the luxurious, kitted out with Nespresso machines, gleaming antiques, books and magazines. Plus, there’s a new super cosy one-bedroom cottage, with agstone ooring, exposed re mantle and wooden beams. In the rustic chic dining room or outside on the terrace, the modern British food is as impressive as the bedrooms. Head chef Matthew Weedon (who was previously awarded Michelin stars at Glenapp Castle in Ayrshire and Lords of the Manor in Gloucestershire) sources ingredients locally, and his menus change with the seasons – try the six-course tasting menu. ere’s an excellent wine list (one of the largest in the Cotswolds) to boot. ey are dog-friendly too – four-legged friends are welcome in e Cottage and e Bar.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1993 833030; thefeatherednestinn.co.uk

THE FISH HOTEL BROADWAY, WORCESTERSHIRE

Tucked away on Farncombe Estate in the Cotswolds, alongside Dormy House (p107) and Foxhill Manor (below), e Fish is a boutique property with some extraordinary features. Alongside country-chic rooms and suites in e Stables, e Outhouse and e Coach House, there are three show-stopping luxury treehouses accessed via a rope bridge (perfect for a family escape). Fifteen converted shepherd huts are also nestled within the grounds, with cosy double beds and freestanding baths – some have their own private hot tubs. A stroll down the hill leads to Hook, the restaurant helmed by Farncombe’s culinary director Martin Burge. With a focus on sustainable and seasonal cuisine, he’s introduced a delectable maritimeinspired menu. Eat on the large, paved terrace, or in the dining room, with an open kitchen for watching the skilled chefs at work. Large groups will love Feasting on e Deck, an outdoor deck where you can enjoy a three-course BBQ extravaganza. It’s a fabulous spot for families and dogs, with an array of activities available on the Adventure Field, children’s woodland play area, agility course speci cally for canines and –are you ready? – an outdoor ‘dogtub’.

Doubles from £220 +44(0)1386 858000; the shhotel.co.uk

FOXHILL MANOR BROADWAY, WORCESTERSHIRE

Nestled deep within the scenic woodland of Farncombe Estate in the Cotswolds, this majestic Arts & Crafts Grade II-listed property was originally a private home and retains the feel of a private manor house hotel to this day. e sister hotel to Dormy House (p107) and e Fish (above), Foxhill Manor operates with a ‘whatever you fancy, wherever you fancy’ attitude and showcases exemplary service. ere are eight glamorous rooms and suites to choose from, all individually designed and with views of the rolling countryside. Instead of a restaurant, you’re invited to chat through your foodie desires with the chef, who will make you a bespoke dinner to order, whilst cocktails can be mixed on demand, and wine fridges and pantries are available for guests to raid. On the estate, outdoor activities like hovercrafting and clay shooting can be arranged, and in the valley below lies the beautiful Cotswolds village of Broadway. Guests are o ered access to the fabulous spa at Dormy House, too. And for the ultimate in privacy, the property can be exclusively hired for a group to enjoy.

Doubles from £595 +44 (0)1386 854200; foxhillmanor.com

THE KINGHAM PLOUGH KINGHAM, OXFORDSHIRE

e Kingham Plough has always been far more than a traditional gastropub. Since being taken over by Matt and Katie Beamish in 2019, this 17th-century Cotswolds gem has had a sensitive renovation of its public spaces, courtyard garden and six en-suite bedrooms, which have a contemporary style (vintage furniture, soft mohair blankets) and beautiful bathrooms; two have roll-top baths, another two are dog-friendly. ere is also a two bed selfcatering cottage, Little Barn, located 150m from the pub, which sleeps four. e kitchen team champions local artisan produce and sources the best fresh, seasonal ingredients for the avourful modern British dishes with Mediterranean in uences on the all-day menus. Everything is made in-house except for the sourdough loaves, delivered daily by Marks Cotswold Bakery. Expect pub classics – sh and chips, Ploughman’s boards, cheeseburgers – alongside more innovative dishes such as Tamworth pork ribeye and pea and mint tortellini. Behind the bar, there’s seasonal cocktails, craft ales and traditional local beers by Hook Norton Brewery and, on its carefully curated wine list, 16 by the glass and 61 by the bottle. Eat well, sleep well.

Doubles from £150 B&B +44 (0)1608 658327; thekinghamplough.co.uk

THE LAMB INN SHIPTON-UNDER-WYCHWOOD,

OXFORDSHIRE

e third venture from Peter Creed and Tom Noest, who also own e Bell Inn Langford and run Little Bell at Soho Farmhouse, this is exactly what you might expect: a lovely, modern country pub with rooms that showcases the duo’s passion for classic British food. Relax in the cosy bar, or the large beer garden in the summer, before sitting down to eat in the restaurant. Tom heads up the kitchen, preparing traditional favourites ( sh and chips, double cheeseburgers, steaks) alongside interesting, simple dishes that celebrate seasonal ingredients, o al and game. ere are ten comfortable rooms have beamed ceilings, antique furniture and ensuite walk-in showers (the biggest also have roll-top baths) – they make an ideal sanctuary after a day exploring the Cotswolds. e pub itself is in the pretty village of Sh ipton-Under-Wynchwood and there is plenty to discover nearby, from Burford and Chipping Norton to the Batsford Arboretum and Cotswold Farm Park. e Lamb can also arrange all kinds of pursuit days, from deer stalking and pigeon shooting to coarse shing a nd simulated game.

Doubles from £89

+44 (0)1993 832116; thelambshipton.com

THE LYGON ARMS BROADWAY, WORCESTERSHIRE

Originally a 14th-century coaching inn, e Lygon Arms in Broadway has 86 unique guestrooms and suites and is located in the heart of the Cotswolds. Over the years it has played host to many famous guests: King Charles I met here with his supporters, giving his name to the impressive ‘Charles I Suite’ complete with four-poster bed and many original features. Further proving the hotel’s universal appeal, Oliver Cromwell also occupied a room here immediately before his victory at the Battle of Worcester in 1651. Relax next to a roaring re in one of the cosy lounges or book a table in the outstanding Grill or the relaxed Tavern, both venues overseen by the exceptionally talented chef James Martin (of Saturday Kitchen fame). A delectable afternoon tea can be enjoyed in the Russell Room, or you can unwind in e Lygon Spa which has a Victorian galleried swimming pool and a range of rejuvenating and blissful beauty treatments on o er. ere are four EV charging points too, so eco-minded guests are well catered for.

Doubles from £245

+44 (0)1386 852255; lygonarmshotel.co.uk

THE NEW INN COLN ST ALDWYNS, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

Baz & Fred, childhood friends and food duo, rst hit headlines for their cracking pizzas in Flat Iron and Brixton Market. e Stump (p115), a pub-turned-cool-foodiebolthole in Foss Cross followed in 2019. en, a year later, followed e New Inn, an ivy-clad 16th century coaching inn, in the picturesque village of Coln St Aldwyns. is atmospheric pub was an instant hit with muddy-booted locals and those in search for quintessential Cotswolds. e rustic yet re ned restaurant with exposed stone walls, agstone oors and beamed ceilings delivers over and above too. Mouthwatering, juicy burgers take pride of place on the seasonal menu alongside a seductive selection of constantly evolving small plates and main dishes for the non-burger lovers. e pub serves its own IPA beer from nearby brewery Deya plus classic cocktails (it does a smashing negroni), which you can enjoy on the sun-soaked terrace or by the re in the local’s bar inside. is pub is the perfect place for people who are looking to stay in an actual pub, not a hotel pretending to be one.

Doubles from £120

+44 1285 750651; thenewinncoln.co.uk

Best For… Escapes with Views theLIST

The places to stay with the most exquisite outlooks. By

AMY WAKEHAM

3 Breac.House COUNTY DONEGAL, IRELAND

Tucked away in Ireland’s remote and rugged north-west Donegal region, Breac.House is located on a dramatic headland overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. The modern house is designed to make the most of spectacular views from every room. breac.house

1

Twr y Felin Hotel

PEMBROKESHIRE

A former windmill, this Pembrokeshire escape is located on Wales’s far-western tip, meaning spectacular views over the Irish Sea – and, of course, unforgettable sunsets. And the views are great inside, too, with walls hung with a well-curated selection of contemporary art. twryfelinhotel.com

2

The Pig – On The Beach

DORSET

Situated on Studland Bay, with fabulous views of Dorset’s World Heritage Coast, this Pig hotel is truly one of a kind. Check into The Lookout for the best views, and tuck into the hotel’s signature 25-mile menu (featuring lots of seafood, naturally) in the sea-view restaurant. thepighotel.com

4

Penmaenuchaf Hotel

SNOWDONIA

A hotel that is well placed for exploring this beautiful part of Wales. It’s perched high above the Mawddach estuary at the foot of the rugged Cadair Idri, and offers views of its landscaped gardens and the rugged mountains of the national park. penmaenuchaf.co.uk

5 The Cley Windmill

NORFOLK

Perched in the salt marshes of the north Norfolk coast, Cley Windmill has breathtaking views of the reed-borded river Glaven, and down to Blakeney Point and the sea. It’s in easy walking distance of the pretty fishing village of Cley-next-the-Sea. cleywindmill.co.uk

7

The Hambrough ISLE OF WIGHT

The Isle of Wight is the UK’s sunniest staycation destination. Make the most of it at The Hambrough, offering beautiful beach views of Ventnor Bay and the English Channel beyond. They’re especially good from its fine dining restaurant, mentioned in the 2022 Michelin Guide. thehambrough.com

Talland Bay Hotel

CORNWALL

Endless sky and blue-blue sea await guests at Talland Bay Hotel, situated on Cornwall’s idyllic south-east coast. Take tea on the terrace overlooking the bay, and hunker down in the cosy rooms, scented with the sea breeze. tallandbayhotel.co.uk

The Cavendish Hotel

PEAK DISTRICT

Located in the picturesque Peak District village of Baslow, on the Chatsworth estate, The Cavendish Hotel has 28 luxurious rooms. Its newly refurbished Garden Room restaurant has a large outdoor dining terrace and views overlooking the glorious Chatsworth parkland. devonshire hotels.co.uk

Lewinnick Lodge

CORNWALL

This cliffside hotel just outside bustling Newquay is the perfect spot for watching the Atlantic waves crash on the rocks just below. Its headland location means great views from all angles, of either the ocean or rugged coastline. lewinnicklodge.co.uk

10

Lost Property St Paul’s LONDON

The hotel’s St Paul’s Junior Suite has unbeatable views over the cathedral just next door. It’s just around the corner from the Thames and the Millennium Bridge, offering the ultimate snapshot of London along the river. lostpropertyhotel.com

The Pig – In The South Downs WEST SUSSEX

High on the South Downs in West Sussex, this Pig hotel offers bucolic views of the surrounding rolling hills and luscious woodland. Wander its vineyard and kitchen gardens, or venture further afield to pretty Arundel and Chichester. thepighotel.com

Northcote

LANCASHIRE

Situated in the Ribble Valley, Northcote is surrounded by scenic countryside, and is on the doorstep of the Forest of Bowland AONB. Walking and cycling routes abound – perfect for working up an appetite for chef Lisa Goodwin-Allen’s creations in the Michelinstarred restaurant. northcote.com

NO 131

CHELTENHAM, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

is is the hip place to stay in Cheltenham: classic on the outside, fashionable on the inside. ere are 36 fabulous guestrooms, with quirky detailing, divine beds, stylish bathtubs, bold fabrics, original artwork from some of the UK’s biggest names, and period bathrooms for a touch of old-fashioned luxury. en there’s hangouts, hideaways and sun-dappled terraces aplenty with outdoor bars and al fresco dining. Streetside elegance abounds at 131 Terrace Restaurant and its exquisite food is complemented downstairs by the relaxed buzz of Cheltenham hotspot, Gin & Juice, where you can work your way through a list of 400 gins and dance the night away every weekend with its resident DJs. As for the seasonal, carefully sourced food, menus range from a xed price weekday menu and indulgent afternoon teas with bubbles to decadent suppers and the best ‘Rule the Roast’ lunch on Sundays. Don’t miss YOKU, the hotel’s fantastic new Japanese restaurant, where sushi meets style and fashion meets food, which serves mouth-watering Asian cuisine (order the ‘Underwater Kingdom’ with its incredible array of sashimi).

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1242 822939; no131.com

THE PAINSWICK STROUD, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

A glorious combination of eclecticism, heavenly food and creature comforts, all set in one of the Cotswolds’ prettiest towns, this picture-perfect Palladian house was renovated and relaunched by owner, e Calcot Collection, in spring 2016, and has been transformed into a relaxing, chic haven with ace cuisine and fabulous views over the Slad valley. e Calcot Collection is master of the art of creating laidback luxury, having developed Calcot & Spa (p106) and the Lord Crewe Arms (p145) at Blanchland. Now it has worked its magic on this 18th century mansion, conjuring an arty, subtly funky feel in the sitting rooms and furnishing the 17 bedrooms in pale, soothing tones, with characteristic attention to detail – splash out on George’s Suite, with its fabulous four-poster bed or, for families and groups of friends, the new neighbouring three-bedroom cottage. When it comes to food, Jamie McCullum has come up with brilliantly inventive and wonderfully seasonal à la carte and tasting menus in e Restaurant. Breakfast in the sunny restaurant is a delight too – as is the sumptuous Painswick afternoon tea in one of the cosy lounges or on the lovely terrace with valley views.

Doubles from £179 +44 (0)1452 813688; thepainswick.co.uk

THE STUMP PUB

FOSS CROSS, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

Food duo and childhood friends Baz & Fred have been slinging pizzas since 2012. ey made the jump to bricks and mortar by taking over and fully renovating their old local watering hole, a 17th-century coaching inn just outside Cirencester. It is a buzzing bolthole, with cosy bedrooms, a winning menu and a cheery team; Baz & Fred have nailed it once again. e ten bedrooms here feature king-size beds, walk-in showers and character galore. But really, it’s all about the food; this is no ordinary pub grub, but rather a completely unique and original foodie pub experience. Based on the founders’ love of Italian food the menu features simple and high quality small plates, delicious Neapolitan pizzas and fresh pasta served beside a roaring re, or on the terrace. Chris, who has helmed the bar for 20 years, serves the best beers in the West. For the perfect party, hire out Russell’s Barn, built by the local legend of the same name, which comes with its own private bar and barmen. is is the type of euphoric pub where you feel you’ll be in for a night to remember.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1285 707780; thestump.co.uk

THORNBURY CASTLE

THORNBURY, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

ornbury Castle is the real deal: so real that Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn stayed and Princess Mary, later Mary I, visited regularly. After centuries as a picturesque ruin, the Howard family transformed it in Victorian times into a splendid private residence. All the panelling and decorative features are either original or hand-crafted reproductions, including much of the furniture, the ornate carved ceilings and tapestry wall-hangings. Spiral staircases lead to 27 unique, romantic bed chambers, many with coronet or fourposter beds. eir baronial style has been cleverly updated with 21st-century luxuries: rooms are well heated with opulent bathrooms. e magni cent Tudor walled gardens have been restored to their full glory and comprise formal areas and a living statue of Henry VIII, along with a kitchen garden, Tudor herb garden, wild ower meadow and heritage orchard within the castle grounds. ornbury’s ne dining options include its three AA Rosette ne dining restaurant and the atmospheric Tudor Hall and Baron’s Sitting Room which are perfect for a private supper. Best of all, it’s an authentic, thundering castle.

Doubles from £249 +44 (0)1454 281182; thornburycastle.co.uk

TUDOR FARMHOUSE HOTEL CLEARWELL, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

In the heart of the Forest of Dean in the magni cent Wye Valley, surrounded by ancient woodland, Tudor Farmhouse Hotel is an utterly chic 20-room boutique retreat. All low ceilings, ancient wood beams and crackling res, the 17th century farmhouse and its converted outbuildings house luxurious rooms and particularly sumptuous beds, most with a freestanding tub. Its 14 acres of wild ower meadows are a protected site of Special Scienti c Interest, due to its rare plants, and foraging trips are one of many nature activities on o er from the hotel’s expert team. Head chef Gavin Roberts champions organic and hyper-local produce – try his fantastic 20-mile menu – including vegetables and herbs from the hotel grounds. Sunday lunch is also a real draw, and breakfasts are show-stopping – a real gastronomic getaway. If all that indulgence leaves you craving some fresh air, whether it’s canoeing on the river Wye, local salmon shing, visiting the nearby Clearwell Caves, endless bucolic walks, or wildlife safaris organised by the hotel, there’s something here for everyone.

Doubles from £159 +44 (0)1594 833046; tudorfarmhousehotel.co.uk

WHATLEY MANOR HOTEL & SPA MALMESBURY, WILTSHIRE

is beautiful, Grade II-listed Cotswold manor house hotel, set in 12 acres of gorgeous English gardens makes a popular choice for Londoners who crave a grown-up, gourmet getaway. e hotel is close to the quaint market towns of Malmesbury and Tetbury, as well as Prince Charles’ Highgrove and verdant Westonbirt, the National Arboretum. Quiet, cosy and dog-friendly, it has 23 elegant rooms and suites, a cinema, and large spa, featuring an indoor-outdoor hydrotherapy pool, a thermal suite (including a Himalayan salt cabin) and spa treatments by Gaia and Sothys. It’s great for foodies, too: in e Dining Room, executive chef Ricki Weston’s focus on British ingredients, innovative tasting menu (which can be paired with specially selected wines in three di erent ights) and heritage cooking techniques have earnt him a Michelin star. ere’s also Grey’s, which has a neighbourhood eatery-vibe, to try. Committed to sustainability, Whatley Manor has achieved silver accreditation with Earthcheck, as well as a Green Michelin star, and plans to achieve a 90 percent reduction of emissions by 2035.

Doubles from £379 +44 (0)1666 822888; whatleymanor.com

THE WILD RABBIT KINGHAM, OXFORDSHIRE

A beautiful old inn built from golden Cotswold stone, e Wild Rabbit is both a trendy hotspot and a haven of eco-elegance, all powered by renewable energy and part of the neighbouring Daylesford Estate. e moment you step inside the pub with rooms, the mellow space invites instant relaxation with its open res, comfy sofas and armchairs. It is sophisticated, convivial and informal and the 13 rooms are sanctums of rustic, low-key luxury (most are doubles, but the family-style Hedgehog room can sleep up to two small children as well). Downstairs, you can tuck into the pub’s ne dining seasonal menu, which celebrates the best organic local produce – most of which comes from Daylesford and its sister farms. Just a few elds away is the estate, which guests can explore via its walking trails, which take between 40 minutes and two hours. ere’s also the farm shop, café, deli and Bamford Wellness Spa, o ering massages and facials, plus yoga and pilates classes. Guests can then return to e Wild Rabbit to meet, eat, party, chill and – if they want – bed down for the night in great comfort.

From £200

+44 (0)1608 658389; thewildrabbit.co.uk

WILD THYME & HONEY AMPNEY CRUCIS, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

One of last year’s most exciting hotel openings, Wild yme & Honey, in the picturesque village of Ampney Crucis near Cirencester, has been lovingly restored from a 16th century inn into a relaxing retreat. Overlooking a babbling trout- lled brook, there are 24 incredibly comfortable bedrooms (many with standalone tubs) plus a lovely village pub, e Crown at Ampney Brook. Exposed Cotswolds stone, natural wood oors and lovely woolly textures blend seamlessly with a New York loft-style look and thoughtfully designed airy spaces that let nature in. Take a seat in the warming surrounds of e Crown to feast on the breakfast bu et, enjoy a traditional afternoon tea with sweet treats and savoury delights, or hunker down with a book and make yourself at home. Borrow wellies for a ramble or visit a National Trust property – Bibury, Lodge Park and Chedworth Roman Villa are all nearby. Come evening, sip one of the pub’s expertly crafted cocktails before getting stuck into the hearty farm-totable menus that roll with the seasons and use local produce – order from one of the delicious daily specials cooked to perfection. Dogs are welcomed with open arms, too.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1285 851806; wildthymeandhoney.co.uk

Plastic Fantastic by Josh Cooper (Herefordshire). LPOTYA: Collection 15 (Ilex Press, £35)

MID COUNTRY

From rolling fields and lush hidden valleys, to vibrant hubs of contemporary culture, you’ll find a rich mix of nature and metropolitan cool

THE CAVENDISH HOTEL BASLOW, DERBYSHIRE

For a warm Derbyshire welcome, this 250-year-old former coaching inn turned country house hotel on the Chatsworth Estate ticks all the boxes. Guests can walk across parkland, spotting the roaming semi-wild deer, towards Chatsworth House, resplendent after its ten-year restoration. e Cavendish maintains this personal touch, with interiors overseen by the Duchess of Devonshire, supremely comfortable bedrooms, walls crammed with artwork and a thrilling dining experience. With head chef Adam Harper at the helm, the elegant 3 AA rosette Gallery restaurant serves imaginative food, using the freshest local ingredients. Or there’s the Garden Room, transformed for this season with an enchanting botanical design that complements the wonderful views across the estate. Service is relaxed and it has an ever-changing menu of seasonal favourites (try the Chatsworth Gold Beer Battered Fish & Chips). For a theatre-style, private dining experience, book the Kitchen Table for up to four guests. Perfectly positioned for a behind-the-scenes look at the busy kitchen, diners can chat to the chefs while they prepare a ve-course surprise supper.

Doubles from £210 +44 (0)1756 718111; cavendishbaslow.co.uk

THE GRAND HOTEL BIRMINGHAM BIRMINGHAM, WEST MIDLANDS

Birmingham’s original grande dame has awakened. Following a £50 million makeover, which saw the hotel closed for nearly 20 years, e Grand Hotel relaunched in 2021 – and is back as glorious as ever. First opened by Isaac Horton in 1879 and designed by omson Plevins, the hotel has welcomed rock stars and royalty alongside hosting fabulous events in the breathtaking Grand Ballroom. e 185 rooms and suites are equally elegant – particularly the jaw-dropping Penthouse Suite with a super king four-poster bed and luxurious marble bathroom, not to mention its own bar, openplan dining and living room. e restaurant and bar have their unique identities too. Parisianchic Madeleine, with double-height windows, sparkling chandeliers and rich interiors, is one of the most recognisable bars in town, serving a glamorous menu of cocktails and champagne as well as afternoon tea. Isaac’s Restaurant boasts an informal New York-meets-Brum concept, serving exceptional steak and seafood alongside brasserie classics. e sta are delightful and there’s an inclusive atmosphere to boot.

Doubles from £149 +44 (0)1218 279600; thegrandhotelbirmingham.co.uk

HAMBLETON HALL OAKHAM, RUTLAND

Of all the luxury British country house hotels that have opened in the last half-century, just one, Hambleton Hall, has remained impervious to fortune and is as magical and enveloping as the day its owners, Tim and Stefa Hart, opened it in 1980. Contented but never complacent, it o ers sophisticated yet deeply comfortable classic English interiors, the brilliant, locally sourced cooking of executive chef Aaron Patterson and Head Chefs Charlie Jones and James Stone (the hotel has held a Michelin star for over 40 years – the record in the UK) and a joyous wine list curated by revered sommelier Dominique Baduel. For those seeking privacy, e Croquet Suite is a cottage for four, adjacent to the hotel. ere is also a swimming pool, tennis court, and views across Hambleton’s south-facing terrace and formal gardens that take your breath away. After an afternoon in the fresh air, Hambleton’s a cionados return to their haven, where loyal key sta – general manager, restaurant manager, chef, sommelier, housekeeper, receptionist, laundress – have notched up 200 years of service between them.

Doubles from £355 +44 (0)1572 756991; hambletonhall.com

HART’S HOTEL NOTTINGHAM

Hart’s is an award-winning 32 bedroom boutique hotel in Nottingham city centre with a private car park and secluded garden. One of the highest rated hotels in the region, it was purpose built on the old ramparts of Nottingham Castle in 2003, with striking lines, curved buttresses and a dashing yet welcoming lobby. Bedrooms are faultlessly equipped, with high ceilings and plenty of natural light. Six have private terraces with access directly into the garden, and most inward-facing rooms present an unexpected bonus: far- ung views across the city to the countryside beyond. In the foreground is the Park Estate, notable Victorian residences begun by the Duke of Newcastle in the 1820s and now a conservation area. Within the hotel the Hart’s Kitchen restaurant is a brilliant example of modern British cooking at its best, with menus created by executive chef Aaron Patterson from Hart’s sister hotel, the Michelin-starred Hambleton Hall (above). No extravagant ights of fancy, but rst class dishes such as gnocchi with wild garlic or whole grilled plaice, created using only the freshest seasonal ingredients

Doubles from £145

+44 (0)1159 881900; hartsnottingham.co.uk

Best For… Family-Owned Escapes theLIST

Have a staycation to remember at one of these stand-out independent hotels.

By ANOOP BHULLER

3

Rothay Manor

LAKE DISTRICT

Slap bang in the heart of the Lake District and a skip from Lake Windermere, this gem of a boutique hotel guarantees a sumptuous stay. Owners, Jenna and Jamie Shail, have designed the rooms to be as lavish and welcoming as possible. Bring walking boots, a book to read by the floor-toceiling window and your dog. rothaymanor.co.uk

4

The Hari LONDON

Owned by the Harilela family, this fabulous five-star retreat in the heart of Belgravia, opened in 2016 as the first hotel in the family’s group. It has an excellent Italian restaurant, a sunny terrace for an al fresco drink and a more laidback vibe than some of its neighbouring hotels. thehari.com

The Artist Residence

BRISTOL

Owned by Justin and Charlotte Salisbury, this eccentric Georgian townhouse (formerly a boot factory) has embraced its history, with room names such as the Workshop. It’s an all-day hang-out kind of place, with an ace café in the arty area of the city. The couple have four other hotels. artistresidence.co.uk

HAMBLETON HALL RUTLAND

The Kingham Plough

THE COTSWOLDS

Matt and Katie Beamish took over The Kingham Plough, Oxfordshire in 2019. With six spacious bedrooms furnished with beautiful antiques, the restaurant is the star, featuring the best local produce for its delicious BritishMediterranean menu. thekinghamplough.co.uk

A hotel renowned for its impeccable service and elegant rooms under four decades of ownership by Tim and Stefa Hart. Drink in the views of Rutland Water with a glass of bubbly on the terrace, or take a wander in the 17 acres of gardens. hambletonhall.com

7

The White House NORFOLK

Owned by Mark and Alison Thompson, this relaxing retreat focuses on embracing its north Norfolk coastal countryside setting. Rooms feature large windows which let the light and fresh sea air pour in, and swanky Burnham Market is a short drive away. stayatthewhitehouse.co.uk

Lime Tree Hotel

LONDON

This gorgeous boutique hotel is owned by Matthew and Charlotte Goodsall, who took over the Georgian townhouse in 2008. Located in Belgravia, its 26 bedrooms are the ultimate in comfort with open fireplaces and pure cotton linens. limetreehotel.co.uk

8

The Manor at Sway

THE NEW FOREST

The Edwardian house is owned by Timothy Holloway who has transformed it into a stylish country house hotel. Embracing its original period features, the design blends antique and modern features to create a cosy and warming environment. You can even enjoy an afternoon tea in the garden. themanoratsway.com

The Gunton Arms

NORFOLK

Art dealer and patron of contemporary art, Ivor Braka has created a quirky place to stay in an historic park in Norfolk, filled with fabulous artworks including a Tracey Emin, as well as photographs of previous occupiers, Lilly Langtry and King Edward VII. theguntonarms.co.uk

The Horse & Groom

WEST SUSSEX

Blacksmith’s shop turned pub with rooms, the Horse & Groom, owned by husband-and-wife team John Ayton and Annoushka Ducas, is a standout space to stay. Its ten guest rooms ooze rustic charm and promise a quiet, restful night on the edge of the South Downs. thehorseandgroom.pub

11 Idle Rocks CORNWALL

Former F1 boss David Richards and his wife Karen Richards opened Idle Rocks in 2013 with the vision of creating a space where guests could feel completely at home by the Cornish seaside. Expect window seating overlooking the harbour, log fires, bookcases and a relaxed atmosphere. idlerocks.com

Batty Langley’s

LONDON

Owners Douglas Blain and Peter McKay have worked hard to maintain this gorgeous building’s original character and period features. Inside, you’ll find 17th-century oak beds and vintage showers. The Earl of Bolingbroke suite includes a luggage lift that takes your bags straight to your room. battylangleys.com

LANGAR HALL

LANGAR,

NOTTINGHAM

irty years ago, when Imogen Skirving opened the doors to her apricot-washed Georgian house, she dreamt that people would feel as if they were in a home from home. Fast forward to today and Imogen’s granddaughter, Lila, and daughter Louise, are staying true to her vision. Set at the end of a lime tree avenue, this country oasis combines the charm and quiet eccentricity of an English country home with just the right amount of modern. e stylish bedrooms are a ne example –book the romantic Bohemia, once an artist’s studio, or bed down in e Agnews Chalet on the Croquet Lawn with its own veranda. e food (‘classic English with a twist’) is equally cosseting, lovingly cooked by longstanding executive chef Gary Booth. Local produce is the big thing, with dishes such as Belvoir pheasant, pancetta, BBQ swede and sloe berry. To top it o , the sta are fantastic, headed up by brilliant general manager Ben Rivett and maître d’hôtel, Michael Addison, who ensure ambiance and experience is top of the list. You feel like you have ‘come home’.

Doubles from £135 +44 (0)1949 860559; langarhall.com

THE PEACOCK AT ROWSLEY ROWSLEY, DERBYSHIRE

Charming and elegant, e Peacock at Rowsley is a stylish boutique hotel and celebrated gastronomic destination where guests can expect rst-class service, comfortable bedrooms and superb food. Built in the 1600s, and a former dower house for Haddon Hall, it’s been a hotel since 1820. Today, it showcases the perfect blend of traditional and contemporary design, with a sense of the family history of the hotel’s owner, Lord Edward Manners, including delightful sketches by his great-grandmother of the great and good of her day. ere are 15 distinctively decorated bedrooms with gleaming marble bathrooms (two have fourposters made locally on the Haddon Estate), a ne dining restaurant (look for the carved mice in the original Mousey ompson furniture) and a splendidly atmospheric bar. Food is at the heart of the place, with acclaimed head chef Dan Smith creating new menus each season, including a spectacular nine-course tasting menu and bar lunch – a favourite with the locals. It’s an ideal base for exploring the Peak District, with extensive dry y wild trout shing on the doorstep.

Doubles from £245 midweek

+44 (0)1629 733518; thepeacockatrowsley.com

THE TAWNY CONSALL, STAFFORDSHIRE

Set in the heart of Sta ordshire, e Tawny combines all the best bits from a traditional hotel – a fabulous restaurant, seamless service, amazing facilities and outdoor pool (heated all year round) – with your own private space. e result is a beautiful rural haven, deeply rooted in nature. Spread across the estate (which dates back to 1246), the 55 eco-conscious rooms, including wildwood huts, treehouses and romantic boathouses, are chic and cosy with superlative views – plus, all feature an outdoor bath on a private decking. ere’s also a lovely treatment room housed in a quaint thatched cottage. Headed up by head chef Andrew Watts, e Plumicorn, with its stunning vistas, serves an inspired menu, using the best of local produce. ere’s a delicious afternoon tea too. Guests can order a picnic to enjoy in the g,rounds – the hotel has 70 acres of undulating landscape, dotted with lakeside gardens, secluded dells and enchanting follies. e adventure continues in bordering Consall Nature Park or the winding local canals – and the Peak District is only a stone’s throw away. Sta are super friendly and dogs are welcome.

Doubles from £230 +44 (0)1538 787664; thetawny.co.uk

WILDHIVE CALLOW HALL ASHBOURNE, DERBYSHIRE

Surrounded by 35 acres of gardens at the edge of the Dove Valley, Wildhive Callow Hall recently emerged from a top-to-toe refurbishment (it’s the rst opening from Wildhive, a new hotel brand focusing on rural getaways). Stay in the main house where eclectic, playful rooms are the vision of interior designer Isabella Worsley, or in one of the 11 cosy, tucked-away woodland Hives. ere are also a pair of self-contained treehouses, each with two bedrooms and an outdoor copper bath on the deck. e wellness centre in e Coach House has a gym, pilates studio, courtyard sauna, botanical massages on the treatment menu and bicycles that guests can borrow to pedal along the scenic Tissington Trail. Picnic by the burbling Bentley Brook and take afternoon tea on the lawn but do leave room for the seasonal dishes using British produce at dinner – Dovedale Blue tortellini with wild nettle pesto, and a stu ed saddle of Derbyshire lamb with wild garlic, black olive, sun blushed tomatoes, spinach and garden chard – in the Garden Room restaurant. A gorgeous retreat, perfectly positioned at the gateway to the Peak District.

Doubles from £206 +44 (0)1335 300900; wildhive.uk

EAST ANGLIA

Prepare to be swept away by thrilling landscapes both ancient and modern, from bustling ports to thriving oyster beds, vast deserted beaches, and throngs of wildlife

Fully Loaded by Kevin Williams (Felixstowe, Suffolk). LPOTYA: Collection 15 (Ilex Press, £35)

BLAKENEY HOTEL

BLAKENEY, NORFOLK

Loved by generations of the same families, the Blakeney stands in prime position on the charming quayside of one of north Norfolk’s prettiest coastal villages, with wonderful views across the estuary and out to Blakeney Point, in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. e family-owned hotel, built in the 1920s, has been sensitively modernised in recent years and now has 60 rooms, all unfussy and seaside-fresh, with crisp white linens on comfortable beds. Many have balconies, or look out onto the southfacing garden; others come with their own patio. Panoramic vistas of the stunning salt marsh landscape can be seen from the bar, terrace and restaurant, where hearty breakfasts, light lunches and locally sourced, seasonal, à la carte and table d’hôte dinner menus are o ered, enhanced by prompt, polite, traditional service. When guests aren’t out walking the north Norfolk Coast Path, exploring beaches or visiting one of the charming nearby towns, there are two spacious lounges for relaxing. e indoor pool, steam room and sauna are, of course, another big draw for repeat guests, too.

Doubles from £348 +44 (0)1263 740797; blakeney-hotel.co.uk

CLEY WINDMILL

CLEY NEXT THE SEA, NORFOLK

Cley Windmill is one of the most memorable and enchanting places to stay in Britain. e singer James Blunt used to live here and Elizabeth Taylor lmed Conspirator at the property in 1949. In the late afternoon, when the wind whips across from the sea, there are few greater pleasures than stowing away hats, coats and binoculars (it’s birdwatching country) as you come home to this beautifully restored windmill, complete with sails. Echoes of children’s adventure stories ood back as you climb higher and higher, nally mounting the ladder to the Wheel Room. Downstairs, there’s a beamed, lived-in circular dining room with a blazing re and antiques, while the cosy lounge, complete with bar, is part of the original 1713 warehouse. ere are ten rooms to choose from, two of which, Dovecote and the new Old Cart Shed, are self-catering cottages in the old stables. e three circular bedrooms in the tower itself have bathrooms ingeniously tted into challenging nooks and crannies. All are charming and bursting with character, with views over the waving reed beds to the sea.

Doubles from £230 +44 (0)1263 740209; cleywindmill.co.uk

CONGHAM HALL

KING’S LYNN, NORFOLK

is calm and handsome Georgian house, beautifully cared for by owners Nicholas and Ruth Dickinson, sits just ve minutes drive from Sandringham and 20 minutes from the amazing stretches of Norfolk beaches. Inside, a lovely stone oor graces the elegant hall with its grey-green walls, antique furniture, sofas in front of the re and vases of fresh garden owers. To either side is a drawing room and library, and there’s also a slick bar. e Samphire Kitchen restaurant is airy and relaxed with locally sourced dishes such as pressed beetroot with goats’ curd followed by baked hake with parsnip velouté and rhubarb crumble tart. e bedrooms are all impeccable and comfortable, divided between the house (the top oor rooms are small but charming); the garden wing next to the pampering Secret Garden Spa; and ve orchard cabins with outside baths among the trees. e house rooms are cool and classical in style, making lovely havens in which to relax. Afternoon tea is a delight here; afterwards, walk it o exploring the 30 acres of gardens and woodland, among the best in England.

Doubles from £169, room only +44 (0)1485 600250; conghamhallhotel.co.uk

THE DABBLING DUCK

GREAT MASSINGHAM, NORFOLK

In picturesque Great Massingham, e Dabbling Duck is a successful village pub, run with great warmth by experienced, hands-on manager Mark Dobby and his wife Sally, a professional photographer, whose prints decorate some of the walls. As soon as you walk in, you’re struck by the cosy, rustic decoration: wooden oors, tables and bar, hops hanging from beams, and shelves of books. ere are eight bedrooms – including three garden rooms – plus the recently refurbished Duckling Cottage, a few doors away, which sleeps six. Sally and Mark have also just renovated the house next door to add four spacious bedrooms with roll-top baths and walk-in showers. e pub has a well-deserved reputation for its own Mucky Duck gin, real ales and curated wine list. e terri c food is made using local produce and prepared by skilful chef, Dale Smith. ere is a beautiful oak-beamed barn with a cosy wood burner, an outside bar and a kitchen serving street food and wood- red pizza. e barn opens up onto the pub garden, which has a play area for little ones.

Doubles from £110 +44 (0)1485 520827; thedabblingduck.co.uk

THE GUNTON ARMS THORPE MARKET, NORFOLK

Art dealer Ivor Braka’s recreation of a particularly delightful 19th-century coaching inn, with the help of designer Robert Kime, has been wowing guests ever since it opened in 2011. ‘In the words of Dolly Parton,’ Ivor says ironically, ‘it took a lot of money to look this cheap.’ Inside, the 16 bedrooms are decked out with sumptuous furnishings, printed wallpaper and traditional dark wood furniture, contrasting with the edgy, sexy art on the walls by all the big names: Tracey Emin, Damien Hirst, Lucian Freud... the list goes on. In the bathrooms, the marble was sourced in Egypt from derelict mansions in Alexandria. e hotel’s eclectic look is helped by the quirkiness of the gabled int building itself, which sits inside vast, deer- lled Gunton Park. In the kitchen Stuart Tattersall presides over delicious, imaginative dishes, including grills on an open re that guests tuck in to at sharing tables – the seafood and Cromer crab are all caught by local shermen and fresh organic produce is sourced from the hotel’s very own walled garden. If you stay in Ellis, don’t miss the old prints by the dressing table – but maybe not if you objected to Emin’s naughty plates above the bar.

Doubles from £99 +44 (0)1263 832010; theguntonarms.co.uk

THE HARPER LANGHAM, NORFOLK

Located in the pretty village of Langham, a mile inland from the coast at Blakeney in Norfolk, e Harper is a contemporary country escape with an irreverent feel. Housed in a brick-and- int barn that was once part of Langham Glass, unfussy yet re ned interiors nod to its industrial past with ashes of iron, copper, oak and slate. Rooms come with modern four posters, leather armchairs, under oor heating and lovely touches, including pre-mixed house cocktails in the fridge. At the heart of e Harper is e Yard for al-fresco dining and evenings around the re pit. ere’s also a cosy bar for comfort food lunches, Ivy’s lounge with arched windows and a wood-burning stove, and Stanley’s restaurant for ne dining without the frippery (try the Norfolk Estate ribeye from the wood- red Josper grill). Head to the spa for a massage or book an exclusive use pool slot. ere’s also e Den with its pool table and lm screenings. Alternatively, pre-order a picnic hamper and make your way to Holkham Beach, which is only a short drive away.

Doubles from £220 +44 (0)1328 805000; theharper.co.uk

MILSOMS KESGRAVE HALL KESGRAVE, SUFFOLK

With its exclusive collection of luxurious East Anglian hotels, the Milsom Group has the knack of creating sophisticated yet easy-going and contemporary places to stay. It showed how to do it with Talbooth House & Spa (see page 134), e Pier and Milsoms Dedham, and has done it again with Kesgrave Hall, opened in 2008. An impressive country house, built in 1812, it stands in 38 rambling acres of woods, elds and immaculate lawns. Its 23 rooms range from Standard to Best, with Superior, Deluxe and Principal in between: all supremely comfortable and well-equipped. Dining is particularly relaxed here – the family-friendly, all-day restaurant, with its rustic good looks, doesn’t take bookings or have a dress code, so turn up whenever and however you like. In summer, there’s dining on the glorious covered terrace with views over the lawns. e spa is also fantastic, boasting Elemis products, ve double treatment rooms, sauna and plenty of soothing space in a woodland setting to relax in.

Doubles from £160 B&B +44 (0)1473 333741; milsomhotels.com

THE SUN INN, DEDHAM DEDHAM, ESSEX

e Sun Inn on the Essex-Su olk border is a charming base from which to explore pretty Dedham Vale. Rent a boat on the River Stour or borrow bikes from the pub – they will even make you a picnic to take with you. e bright yellow façade of this handsome old coaching inn beckons you to an interior that manages to be airy, spacious and properly pubby with beams and wooden oors, open res and an elm bar lined with jolly locals and their dogs. ere are magazines and travel books to read, board games to play, and deep sofas to sink into, plus seven individually decorated bedrooms with centuries-old character and sumptuous beds – the perfect place to unwind. e restaurant’s seasonal food is big on avour and inspired by great local produce: think homemade pasta, excellent sh from east coast day boats, local meat, fruit and veg and game in season. Plus local ales and an eclectic wine list brimming with rare treats. is July, the inn celebrates its 20th anniversary under the ownership of Baker Hospitality, which also owns e White Hart Inn on Mersea Island (p134).

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1206 323351; thesuninndedham.com

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theLIST

Best For… Escapes

with Kids

Gather up for the troops for a child-friendly stay.

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By MARTHA DAVIES

The Mayfair Townhouse

LONDON

Timeless elegance meets British charm at the Mayfair Townhouse – and the kids won’t want to go home. The best of London is on your doorstep: head to toy Mecca Hamley’s or immerse yourself in movie magic at the Warner Brothers Studio Tour. themayfairtownhouse.com

Horwood House Hotel

MILTON KEYNES

With a labyrinth, large outdoor chess set and an old manor to explore, children will feel like they’re in Wonderland at Horwood House. Over 13s can make use of the pool facilities and even enjoy a selection of spa treatments, too. horwoodhouse.co.uk

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Lucknam Park

WILTSHIRE

Lucknam is made for families. Wander through woodland to The Hideaway, with its baby playroom, quiet room for reading, arts and crafts, and loads of dressing up costumes. Jump on bikes; have a ponyride; tuck into to family-friendly fare. lucknampark.co.uk

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Una St Ives

CORNWALL

From one to four bed architect-designed lodges to gorgeous villas, many of which come with a hot tub, families will find everything they need at Una St Ives, located just above Carbis Bay. Swim, spa, beach, walks and a big warm welcome. unastives.co.uk

5 Bovey Castle

DEVON

There are oodles of activities at Bovey Castle, located in Dartmoor National Park, including a dedicated play area, craft sessions, denmaking and falconry. They can even feed the hotel’s resident deer fawns after exploring the 275 acres of parkland. boveycastle.com

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One Aldwych LONDON

Little ones will love the games and treats provided for them by the team at One Aldwych. For an unforgettable experience, take them to the hotel’s Charlie and the Chocolate Factoryinspired afternoon tea or bring them down to the pool to gaze at spectacular projections of exotic fish. onealdwych.com

Ellenborough Park Hotel & Spa

THE COTSWOLDS

Kick on a pair of Dubarry boots from the boot room and get out into the 90 acres of countryside surrounding this five-star hotel. With interconnecting rooms available, mocktails, a milkshake bar, scavenger hunts and the Cotswold Farm Park nearby, you’ll have them sleeping like babies after a fabulous day. ellenboroughpark.com

The Fish Hotel

THE COTSWOLDS

From rooms and suites to woodland huts and tree houses, you’ll find the perfect spot for a family escape at The Fish Hotel on the glorious Farncombe Estate. Climb the hill to Broadway tower, enjoy a spot of falconry or archery or take to the hiking trails, there’s so much to do. thefishhotel.co.uk

Elsker

THE COTSWOLDS

This eight-bedroom luxury cottage on the Farncombe Estate is perfect for a family or two. Children can roam around the grounds or make a splash in the heated swimming pool, and if you want to venture further, you can head out into 400 acres of Cotswold countryside. hillsidehangouts.co.uk

Bibury Farm Barns

THE COTSWOLDS

With five beautifully renovated, self-catering barn conversions, this makes a great family-friendly escape. It’s ideally positioned in idyllic Bibury, with loads of activities on the doorstep – hiking, wildlife parks, country houses, farm shops, restaurants. biburyfarm.com

The Tudor Farmhouse Hotel MONMOUTH

Head to the Tudor Farmhouse Hotel for a no-fuss family holiday packed full of fun. A stone’s throw from Puzzlewood, Go Ape and the walking and cycling trails within the Forest of Dean, this is the ideal place for an adventure. tudorfarmhousehotel.co.uk

The Dabbling Duck

NORFOLK

Kids will love this charming village hotel, which is only a short drive from the glorious north Norfolk coast, with its huge swathes of sand. Settle into a cosy room after tucking into a hearty meal at the pub, or go self-catered in a Duckling Cottage if you prefer. thedabblingduck.co.uk

TALBOOTH HOUSE & SPA DEDHAM, ESSEX

Overlooking Dedham Vale in Constable country, Talbooth House & Spa (formerly Maison Talbooth) has established itself as the ‘go to’ spa in Essex. is lovely Victorian house is a super sophisticated place to stay and now includes Jack’s Bar as well as the spa facility (complete with Elemis products) with a swimming pool, hot tub and outdoor sauna as well as six treatment rooms. e hotel is an oasis of calm, where you can step back, relax and indulge. Its 12 uniquely decorated literary-themed bedrooms act as the accommodation arm of their nearby restaurant, now called Talbooth Restaurant. Both are owned by the Milsom family, who have run the restaurant since 1952, and whose portfolio also includes Milsoms Dedham, Idle Waters, e Pier at Harwich and Milsoms Kesgrave Hall. As with all their properties, dogs are welcome to stay. Breakfast can be served in your room or at Milsoms Dedham, while a courtesy car whisks guests to and from the Talbooth, a half-timbered building with a lm set location on the River Stour. In all, the hotel, spa and restaurant make for a winning combination.

Doubles from £315 +44 (0)1206 322795; milsomhotels.com

THE WHITE HART INN MERSEA ISLAND, ESSEX

is pub with rooms reopened after a nineyear closure in June 2022 following a seven month refurbishment. It is part of the same family as e Sun Inn, Dedham (p131) and Church Street Tavern, Colchester. It sits on England’s most easterly inhabited island, opposite the church green and minutes from the beach. Six cosseting, colourful rooms (one has a sea view, others look over the green) all have super king beds, huge walk-in showers and contemporary local art. e seasonally changing menu features local ingredients: oysters and seafood, fruit and vegetables grown on the island and meat from East Anglia. Highlights are Dover sole with nori and mussel sauce, swede and carrot agnoletti, wild duck with mulberries and Sunday roasts. Lighter dishes include a stunning seafood platter. Relax in the snug or head out to explore, from beach strolls to a circuit of the island (around four hours), boat trips to watersports and bird watching. Do check the hotel website before setting o –high tide cuts the island o from the mainland once a day.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1206 583212; whitehartinnmersea.co.uk

THE WHITE HOUSE BURNHAM MARKET, NORFOLK

Set in the countryside, yet just a few miles from the sea, this is a secluded, serene retreat. e renovated Georgian house has 12 tranquil bedrooms – many with freestanding baths and all with a Roberts radio, crisp white sheets and natural 100 Acres products. e reception rooms are decorated with rich colours, velvet sofas and artwork by local artists. ere’s a re for gathering around and an honesty bar for drinks. In the mornings, made-toorder dishes such as homemade wa es and proper porridge will set you up for the day whether you fancy a trip to Burnham Market or relaxing in front of the wood burner in the walled garden. Guests can play tennis, croquet or hire bicycles locally to explore the coast. Brancaster beach is nearby too, where walkers can pick up the Norfolk Coast Path. If you’re staying ursday to Saturday, book for dinner at new restaurant Acre at the White House, which specialises in Norfolk produce cooked in a classic French style. e hotel also runs art courses and can be taken over for house parties if you’re celebrating something special.

Doubles from £130

+44 (0)7785 439727; stayatthewhitehouse.co.uk

THE VICTORIA HOLKHAM, NORFOLK

One of the great pleasures in life is strolling on the beach at Holkham, an unspoilt and beautiful stretch of sand, memorably featured in the closing scenes of Shakespeare in Love. Behind it stands fabulous Holkham Hall and its 25,000-acre estate, home to the Earl and Countess of Leicester and their family, and rich in history, architecture and wildlife. Just a few minutes from the beach at the gates of Holkham Park, is the estate’s gorgeous brick and int hotel and restaurant, e Victoria, a ectionately known as e Vic. It has never looked better: a series of lovely sitting rooms, bar and dining room with an airy orangery where delicious, locally sourced, seasonal food is served. Heated by biomass with wood from the estate, and awarded Green Tourism Gold status, e Vic certainly has sustainability at its core. e bedrooms are lovely, too, and it makes a wonderful base for exploring the local area. From the stunning panoramic landscape of the nearby Holkham National Nature Reserve to the old-fashioned beach huts at Wells-next-the-Sea, there’s plenty of great walking to do right on the doorstep.

Doubles from £160

+44 (0)1328 711008; holkham.co.uk

Wild Goose Chase by John Ormerod (Langdale Valley, Cumbria). LPOTYA: Collection 15 (Ilex Press, £35)

THE NORTH

With its proper pubs, cutting-edge cultural hot spots and rugged landscapes, a trip to the north of England will revive mind, body and soul

ASKHAM HALL

ASKHAM, CUMBRIA

If you lean towards staying in homes rather than hotels, head for this magni cent corner of the Lake District, between Ullswater and the Eden Valley. Askham Hall’s mighty, yet approachable Grade I-listed ‘pele tower’ (forti ed house), was formerly the family home of the Earl and Countess of Lonsdale, whose son, Charlie Lowther, converted it into a hotel in 2012 after making a success of e George & Dragon in Clifton (in 2019 he also acquired Askham’s village pub, e Queen’s Head, p140 and p147). e romantic and quintessentially English 40-acre grounds are a joy; they include extensive kitchen gardens and elds of free-range chickens, goats and rare-breed pigs. A joy, too, is the house with its vast drawing room, panelled French room, antiques, contemporary paintings and 19 delightful bedrooms, plus a pool, hot tub and access to a nearby Health Barn. e icing on the cake? e Allium restaurant, where the sensational food of Richard Swale is dictated by the life cycle of those gardens and elds. No wonder it holds four AA Rosettes and a Michelin star.

Doubles from £180 + 44 (0)1931 712350; askhamhall.co.uk

AUGILL CASTLE

KIRKBY STEPHEN, CUMBRIA

Quirky and delightful, Augill Castle is a Victorian gentleman’s folly in the magni cent Eden Valley. It has the trappings of a neo-Gothic castle – tower, castellations and mullions – but in miniature. is year two generations of the Bennett family, who rescued it from dereliction and have created a very special, award-winning place to stay, are celebrating 25 years of ownership. It retains the atmosphere of a family home, bringing intimacy to its vast rooms with large replaces and a mix of antique and contemporary furniture. ere are nine charming bedrooms in the main castle and Orangery, with turrets for wardrobes, claw-foot baths and stainedglass windows. Separate estate houses with a more modern vibe are occasionally available to hire. e Music Room at Augill restaurant is run by Simon and Wendy Bennett who marry bold avours with the nest local ingredients. Meanwhile, e Great British Bar champions small distillers, brewers and artisan producers from the UK. Featuring prominently is the castle’s own 1837 hand-crafted dry gin. is is also a unique place for a wedding: you can have the castle to yourself with no set formula.

Doubles from £200 +44 (0)1768 341937; stayinacastle.com

BROCCO ON THE PARK SHEFFIELD, SOUTH YORKSHIRE

Brocco on the Park is very much in the heart of its community, independently owned and run with a ock of accolades, reviews and awards; local, regional and national. e mantra for the hotel is “eat well, sleep well, live well” and everything at Brocco has been thought about; if it can be home-made, hand-picked or personalised, it has been! e hotel and accompanying small plate restaurant is a perfect marriage of luxury chic and classic British comfort, with a stunning bird theme throughout, including the names of the eight pretty, carefully crafted rooms, including Robin’s Hollow and Swallow’s Rafter. Delicate, soft furnishings, high quality toiletries and homemade cakes await your arrival. Special touches include it’s honesty bar and hygge hour (including a complimentary glass of zz for guests), alongside the seasonally inspired menu, served in the award-winning Brocco Kitchen – including breakfast, afternoon tea, brunch and chef’s tasting dinners. ere is no doubt that a stay at Brocco on the Park is the epitome of enjoyment, romance and relaxation.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1142 661233; brocco.co.uk

THE DEVONSHIRE ARMS HOTEL & SPA

BOLTON ABBEY, YORKSHIRE

Set on the Duke of Devonshire’s Bolton Abbey Estate – 33,000 acres of prime Yorkshire Dales – this rural hotel o ers ultimate comfort and relaxation. Originally a 17th-century coaching inn, it stands in parkland, surrounded by an Italian box garden with the beautiful Dales beyond. Inside, artwork and antiques merge with classic contemporary interiors, chosen by the Duchess of Devonshire. Arrive to bedrooms and suites with individual touches, richly decorated sitting rooms and log res. e Secret Spa is a series of canvas bell tents featuring superb guest amenities; the spa itself is housed in a converted barn with a new state-of-the-art hydrotherapy pool featuring water beds and various jet therapies, therapy suites and a small gym. e three AA Rosette Burlington is a highlight for foodies, where carefully crafted dishes celebrate the bountiful home-grown fruit and vegetables from the kitchen garden, along with produce reared and caught on the estate. Each summer the hotel also creates a pop-up restaurant for al fresco dining, enticing guests to immerse themselves in the incredible wraparound views of the countryside.

Doubles from £240 +44 (0)1756 718111; thedevonshirearms.co.uk

GEORGE & DRAGON CLIFTON, CUMBRIA

A lovely place to stay, eat and relax, close to the Eden Valley. Part of the huge Lowther Estate, the village inn is owned by Charlie Lowther who is also behind nearby Askham Hall (p138) and e Queen’s Head Askham (p147). Last summer a re broke out here which has meant an extensive refurbishment. However, regulars have no need to worry. When the George and Dragon re-opens in early summer, it will still have the same authentic look and convivial feel. e rustic bar, with its wood-burning stoves and banquette seats strewn with kelim cushions, will be a delightful place to while away time. And on sunny days, there is still no better spot than at a chunky, weathered table in the courtyard. New menus are inspired by the estate-grown and reared produce. Head chef Gareth Webster creates just the sort of tasty, unfussy cooking one craves in the countryside. Speaking of which, anyone staying in one of the inn’s ten comfortable, renovated bedrooms should take advantage of its impressive shing and stalking opportunities. Families and well-behaved dogs are welcome.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1768 865381;  georgeanddragonclifton.co.uk

GILPIN HOTEL & LAKE HOUSE WINDERMERE, CUMBRIA

Family-run and fabulous. In 1987, John and Christine Cunli e bought John’s grandmother’s 1901 home and created a ve-bedroom B&B. Joined by their son Barney and his wife Zoë in 2001, the Cunli es have created a haven of calm, style and great comfort, a year-round retreat across two estates. Nowadays, Gilpin Hotel has an Arts & Crafts charm mixed with glossy, contemporary style; lots of luxury, but zero pretentiousness. Wellness is a big focus, with a gorgeous new Spa Space for all guests to enjoy. Twelve of the 30 rooms have hot tubs, and ten Spa Lodges and Spa Suites have hot tubs and private spas. A mile away is hotelcum-country-house Gilpin Lake House. Set in 100 acres of private grounds, six rooms share an indoor pool, sauna, outdoor hot tubs and spa treatment rooms. As for the food, you’ll be bowled over. Gilpin Hotel is home to Michelinstarred SOURCE at Gilpin Hotel, which o ers locally-sourced creations, and casual Pan-Asian restaurant Gilpin Spice. Knipe Grill at Gilpin Lake House is equally impressive, with playful dishes such as Kentucky fried pheasant. In short, a blissful hotel lled with love and laughter – even the resident alpacas look happy.

Doubles from £305 +44 (0)15394 88818; thegilpin.co.uk

THE GRAND, YORK YORK, YORKSHIRE

Originally built in 1906 as a ‘Palace of Business’ for the North Eastern Railway Company, e Grand, York, lives up to its name – retaining much of its Edwardian splendour. With its city centre location, unique experiential packages and exquisite food and beverage o ering, the hotel provides the perfect all-around escape. Today, there are 207 beautifully designed luxury suites and spacious rooms that occupy the two main wings. Guests can choose between the original building with its high ceilings, large windows and architectural quirks or the contemporary wing, a clever blend of heritage meets modern simplicity. e spa, housed in the former vaults, o ers a blissful escape, while diners can choose between ne-dining restaurant Legacy, with a tasting menu focused on seasonality, locality and sustainability, or modern British cuisine in AA Rosette Rise Restaurant – both are sure to delight epicureans. Don’t miss the award-winning afternoon tea either. In the evening, start with a cocktail ßon the terrace and nish o the night with a whisky at the 1906 Bar. And, as if all that wasn’t enough, e Grand has an awardwinning cookery school, too.

From £169

+44 (0)1904 380038; thegrandyork.co.uk

GRANTLEY HALL RIPON, NORTH YORKSHIRE

A shining north star, Grantley Hall is a real destination for luxury, fun and ne dining. Dating back to 1680s, this Grade II*-listed mansion house on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales boasts an English Heritage ornamental Japanese garden. Opened in 2019 following a multi-million-pound restoration project by owner Valeria Sykes, the Georgian mansion’s Palladian beauty has been restored to its former glory, capturing its elegant grandeur as well as adding several new buildings. Guests are spoiled rotten here, with 47 beautiful bedrooms, an indulgent spa o ering, an engaging programme of events and six drinking and dining venues including pan-Asian eatery, Restaurant EightyEight, stunning terraces for al fresco dining, and a glamorous late-night Champagne and cocktail bar, Valeria’s. Foodies will rub their hands with glee because the hotel’s principal Michelinstarred restaurant, overlooking the formal gardens, has menus by culinary maestro Shaun Rankin. Gastronomic delights, 17th-century splendour and contemporary design all add up to an unforgettable experience. Grantley Hall is currently the AA Hotel of the Year England.

Doubles from £500

+44 (0)1765 620070; grantleyhall.co.uk

Best For… As-Seen-On-Screen Escapes theLIST

Have a Hollywood-worthy holiday in one of these glitzy filming locations. By AMY

3

WAKEHAM

The Royal Lancaster

LONDON

Built on the fringe of Hyde Park in the Swinging Sixties, the Royal Lancaster is a mid-century masterpiece. The architectural landmark can be seen starring in The Italian Job with Michael Caine, and is where the lead character heads for his ‘coming out present’ after prison – cue a bevvy of scantily clad ladies. royallancaster.com

1The Standard

LONDON

From Sex & The City to Gossip Girl, Standard hotels worldwide are an industry favourite for filming locations. The London outpost is no different, with its bar starring in Killing Eve with Jodie Comer and Sandra Oh. standardhotels.com

4

The Savoy LONDON

One of the capital’s most famous and recognisable hotels, The Savoy is a cultural beacon, appearing in key scenes in films such as Notting Hill, and the BAFTA-nominated 2022 whodunnit, See How They Run, starring Sam Rockwell and Saoirse Ronan. thesavoylondon.com

2 The Victoria HOLKHAM

The Holkham estate in Norfolk has been a popular Hollywood filming location for decades, in particular the grand Holkham Hall (in The Duchess) and the windswept swathe of Holkham beach (as seen in Shakespeare in Love and Never Let Me Go). holkham.co.uk

5 Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons

OXFORD

The vision of Raymond Blanc, Le Manoir is a simply beautiful country house, surrounded by acres of carefully tended gardens. It’s featured in many TV series over the years, from cooking shows starring Raymond himself, to Strike: Lethal White, based on the Cormoran Strike series by JK Rowling. belmond.com

Brown’s Hotel

LONDON

London’s oldest hotel, over the years Brown’s has welcomed the great and the good, from royalty to Oscar winners. It has itself starred in many TV series over the years on the behind-the-scenes life of luxurious hotels. roccofortehotels.com

9

The Dixon

LONDON

The former Tower Bridge Magistrates Court, which was transformed and reopened in 2019 as a luxury boutique hotels. Last year its stylish restaurant, Provisioners, was the star of Ant & Dec’s Saturday Night Takeaway, in which it played a key role in one of the duo’s hidden camera prank. thedixon.co.uk

7

Slieve Donard

COUNTY DOWN, NORTHERN IRELAND

Northern Ireland is the location of choice for many blockbuster films and TV series. Explore recognisable backdrops from Game of Thrones, Dungeons |& Dragons, and The Northman from the luxury of Slieve Donard, nestled at the foot of the Mountains of Mourne. slievedonardhotel.com

Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa

BATH

The golden, cobbled Regency sweep of the Royal Crescent in Bath has graced our screens for decades, most recently in smash-hit Bridgerton The street’s only hotel is the perfect spot for a truly elegant stay worthy of any Austen heroine hunting for their Captain Wentworth. royalcrescent.co.uk

The Pig –Brockenhurst

NEW FOREST

Known for its groundbreaking 25-mile menu, it’s no wonder that foodie Fred Sirieux headed to the very first Pig hotel in Brockenhurst for his series Remarkable Places to Eat. There he samples oyster mushrooms and salt-baked celeriac in the hotel’s restaurant. thepighotel.com

Cliveden House

BERKSHIRE

This historic Italianate mansion has appeared many times over the years on our screens, from The Beatles’ Help to Cinderella with Lily James. Its ornate, romantic rooms and location on the banks of Thames are the perfect spot for your own fairytale to unfold. clivedenhouse.co.uk

Bovey Castle

DEVON

An imposing early-20th century mansion, Bovey Castle is a luxurious destination on the fringes of Dartmoor. It appeared on Channel 5’s four-part series Posh Hotels with Sally and Nigel, in which the duo experience life at the hotel as both guests and members of staff. boveycastle.com

DAMIEN HEWETSON

HEADLAM HALL COUNTY DURHAM

e Robinson family are exemplary hoteliers: not only have they created the quintessential English pub in the Rose & Crown at Romaldkirk (p147), but also the archetypal country-house hotel at Headlam Hall, located not far from Durham city. It helps that the hall is a ne-looking, 17th-century building of the palest stone with an idyllic setting in the rolling Durham dales. In its beautiful walled gardens, you can play tennis and croquet or just stroll around and admire the immaculate lawns and rose borders. Vegetables, herbs and fruit are also grown here to provide the excellent kitchen with the freshest possible ingredients. Inside, the exquisitely proportioned space has wood panelling and elegant, comfortable furnishings, and the 38 restful bedrooms and suites (plus a new stylish self-catering apartment with private hot tub) contain everything you could possibly need. With its own nine-hole golf course, fabulous spa and classic cars available for daily hire in the summer, this is a hotel that absolutely everyone will enjoy ... even the most dedicated of petrolheads.

Doubles from £145 +44 (0)1325 730238; headlamhall.co.uk

LINTHWAITE HOUSE WINDERMERE, CUMBRIA

Linthwaite House, built in 1900 as a sweeping private home, is in many ways the perfect Lake District hotel: understated, elegant and professional, but also warmly welcoming and deeply relaxing. And the views over Lake Windermere, with the sun slanting across the water, is simply unbeatable. e bedrooms are the last word in lakeside luxury and, for those wanting a more back-to-nature experience, there’s also a tarn with a secluded summerhouse and six Fell Suites in the wooded, gently sloping grounds. Back in the hotel, you’ll nd a crackling re in the hall’s carved mahogany replace, beyond which beckons an airy bar and conservatory, with those mesmerising views to drink in. Guests can dine in Henrock – both are overseen by muchadmired, multi-Michelin-stared chef Simon Rogan who makes sublime use of the freshest Cumbrian ingredients and his farm in Cartmel, known as Our Farm. Add a croquet lawn, pétanque and outdoor chessboard, as well as bicycles and rowing boats to borrow, and you have a Lake District hotel that ticks all the boxes.

Doubles from £215 +44 (0)15394 88600; leeucollection.com/uk

LORD CREWE ARMS BLANCHLAND, NORTHUMBERLAND

In 2014, this wonderfully characterful and historic inn was bought and superbly revamped by one of the best small hotel groups in the country, e Calcot Collection. In the honeystoned medieval village of Blanchland, amid the gorgeous countryside of the North Pennine moors, this posh pub-cum-hotel dates back to the 12th century. Even before you walk through the door, you’ll nd yourself smiling thanks to the warm welcome from Richard, aka ‘ e Beard of Blanchland’, who’s as much of a hit on Instagram as he is with guests. e hotel’s 26 bedrooms range from cosy doubles to suites ( ve of which were added last year), with relaxed eating areas displaying baronial and monastic touches as be t the building, originally part of Blanchland Abbey. e look throughout is spot on: English country calm mixed with cosmopolitan beat and pace. As for the honest, robust food, it’s in the excellent hands of Emma Broom. e restored 15th-century Gatehouse is now a slick spot for special events, culinary demos and private gatherings of up to 30 people. In short, a truly delightful haven in one of the loveliest spots in the country.

Doubles from £174 +44 (0)1434 677100; lordcrewearmsblanchland.co.uk

MIDDLETHORPE HALL YORK, NORTH YORKSHIRE

If the exterior of this gorgeous, mellow red brick 1699 house looks straight from a Jane Austen novel, the interior is no disappointment. You’ll nd a magni cent oak staircase, elegant sitting rooms each with a re and views of the ha-ha. e atmosphere is serene and there’s a tranquil spa across the road. Expect classic country house bedrooms, oral bedspreads, homemade shortbread and kind attention from the sta . For dinner, try the catch of the day: perhaps plaice or halibut landed at Whitby, followed by Yorkshire poached rhubarb crumble sou é with vanilla ice cream and white chocolate. A hotel, that is as alluring and comfortable in winter, as it is in summer, when you can stroll through the grounds and make friends with the resident deer. In 1878, Fanny Rollo Wilkinson – one of the rst women to make a professional career as a landscape gardener – moved here. It is where she began to devote her life to gardening, and the historic gardens are well worth a visit. It also makes the perfect base for visiting York. Rescued from decay in the 1980s, Middlethorpe Hall is a National Trust-owned Historic House Hotel.

Doubles from £270

+44 (0)1904 641241; middlethorpe.com

MIDDLETON LODGE ESTATE RICHMOND, NORTH YORKSHIRE

e Allison family has spent the past 16 years bringing this Georgian beauty back to life. Now a cool 200-acre estate, it welcomes couples, creatives, and families to kick back in the countryside. e Coach House is at its heart, with a bustling courtyard, treatment rooms, lounge area and a Michelin recognised ‘estate to plate’ restaurant serving hearty and sustainablyconscious dishes rooted in the two-acre walled garden (designed by Tom Stuart-Smith). In February, a second restaurant, Forge, opened o ering a sense evoking and atmospheric tasting experience created by head chef Jake Jones ( ursday to Sunday evenings only). irty bedrooms are dotted amongst the parkland, each individually designed, to re ect the original buildings, from the Dairy, to the Coach House, Walled Gardens and Orchard– with chunky beams, rough plaster walls and roll top baths. Some have private gardens and tin hot tubs (fed by the on-site spring), and one even opens into the kitchen garden. Larger groups can stay in the Farmhouse that sleeps 12, Hope House which sleeps 10 or the 16 bed Main House. Phase one of the Forest Spa with a heated outdoor pool will open early summer. Doubles from £235 +44 (0)1325 377977; middletonlodge.co.uk

NORTHCOTE HOTEL LANGHO, LANCASHIRE

Northcote is a luxury boutique hotel in the beautiful Ribble Valley. An oasis of gastronomic excellence, it has held a Michelin star for more than 27 years, with a chef’s table, cookery school and kitchen garden alongside its restaurant. One of the UK’s leading chefs, executive chef Lisa Goodwin-Allen, wellknown for her appearances on television (as a MasterChef judge and on James Martin’s Saturday Morning), creates fresh, modern avours, making the most of seasonal produce and the best local ingredients. Choose between the à la carte, ve course gourmet menu and plant-based menus. Managing director Craig Bancroft oversees a carefully-curated cellar of excellent wines. Twenty six spacious rooms and suites are divided between the original 1880 Manor House and the Garden Lodge. All are thoughtfully decorated with distinctive furniture, fabrics and wallpapers, and contemporary bathrooms. e hotel has plotted great walks and cycling routes from the doorstep, and the impressive façade of Stonyhurst College, the Jesuit school where JRR Tolkien wrote Lord of the Rings, is just a short drive away.

Doubles from £288 +44 (0)1254 240555; northcote.com

THE QUEEN’S HEAD ASKHAM, CUMBRIA

Part of the Askham collection since 2019, this 17th-century village pub has been lovingly renovated by the Lowther family. ere are just six rooms dotted about the premises; some come with classic wooden furniture and oral wallpaper; others feel more modern with mint green walls and pretty bedside lamps. e restaurant –which has an AA Rosette – is equally intimate, with nine tables for diners to tuck into the ‘posh pub grubbers’ menu or Sunday lunch (note: it’s closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, except for breakfast for residents). Produce is reared, foraged and grown on the farm, local hedgerows and kitchen gardens and whipped up into re ned dishes such as earthy tru e with creamy artichoke by head chef Anthony Amos –real talent who was previously part of the kitchen team at Askham Hall (also owned by the Lowthers, see p138). ere are fantastic walks right from the front door, including on the fells and along the river Lowther. Afterwards, head back to the pub for a pint of ale by the copper bar to rest your weary feet.

Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1931 712225; queensheadaskham.co.uk

THE ROSE & CROWN ROMALDKIRK, COUNTY DURHAM

For anyone seeking a quintessential English inn, loved by regulars and rst-time visitors alike for its warmth, character, comfort and good food, with beautiful surroundings, look no further than the wonderful Rose & Crown.

Run by the Robinson family, who also own the popular County Durham hotel, Headlam Hall (p144), this 18th-century coaching inn continues to do what it has always done so well: ne hospitality in an archetypal rural hostelry. ere are thick stone walls, beamed ceilings and stone res, with enough contemporary touches to blend old-fashioned charm with modern comfort. Great food is at the heart of the inn, showcasing local ingredients of good provenance: typical dishes might include homemade parsnip and apple soup or venison bourguignon pie. e 14 bedrooms display a faultless combination of contemporary country design (including modern bathrooms) and terri c character and charm. It’s also brilliantly placed for walking in the spectacular Dales countryside, mountain biking through Hamsterley Forest and y shing on the Tees (tuition can be arranged). Well-behaved dogs are very welcome, too.

Doubles from £135 +44 (0)1833 650213; rose-and-crown.co.uk

ROTHAY MANOR AMBLESIDE, CUMBRIA

Dating back to 1835, this handsome white stucco Regency house sits in the heart of the Lake District, at the northern tip of Lake Windermere. Husband and wife duo, Jenna and Jamie Shail, have breathed new life into the property, completing extensive, stylish renovations on the main house’s 15 rooms, some with private terraces, others with balconies overlooking the landscaped gardens and wooded grounds. You can also stay in e Pavilion, which has eight beautiful garden suites, designed with a colour palette of deep, luscious greens, peppered with opulent fabrics, sumptuous furnishings, and luxury amenities. In the restaurant, Head Chef Dan McGeorge draws inspiration from Scandinavian and Japanese cuisine, while ensuring that foods are sourced locally and seasonally, where possible. Already a culinary hotspot, there was even more excitement when Dan was crowned ‘Champion of Champions’ in the nal of the BBC’s Great British Menu TV series in 2020. A bucolic, boutique bolthole, perfectly situated for easy lake strolls and hilly hikes, and a ten minute walk from the pretty village of Ambleside.

Doubles from £200 +44 (0)15394 33605; rothaymanor.co.uk

SEAHAM HALL SEAHAM, COUNTY DURHAM

A Georgian country house hotel that’s rich in heritage and contemporary in style, Seaham Hall is known for its award-winning Serenity Spa. Drawing in uence from Far Eastern healing and wellness rituals, holistic treatments range from hypnotherapy to Ishga seaweed baths and soothing massages. Afterwards, grab a bite at the pan-Asian restaurant Ozone or book in for a ve-course seasonal British tasting menu in e Dining Room with its glittering chandeliers and portrait of one-time resident Lord Byron. At night, bed down in one of the lavish suites with super king size Hypnos beds; some come with a private hot tub and garden, whilst the split-level Ada Lovelace suite has twin slipper baths with an impressive view.

e hotel, which also boasts more spacious and private bungalow suites, recently launched its dog-friendly o ering, celebrating with a fabulous coronation package for furry friends. So, all in all, it’s no surprise that Seaham Hall is celebrating many awards: Small Hotel of the year at North East England Tourism Awards 2023, e Times North of England Hotel of the Year 2023 and Small Hotel of the Year in Visit England’s Awards for Excellence in 2022.

From £295 for a suite

+44 (0)191 516 1400; seaham-hall.co.uk

STORRS HALL BOWNESS-ON-WINDERMERE, CUMBRIA

An elegant Grade II*-listed Georgian mansion on the shores of Lake Windermere, surrounded by 17 acres of gardens and woodland. e main house is home to the lake view restaurant, drawing room and striking Victorian bar from Blackpool Tower. e bedrooms here are all di erent (and include spacious family rooms) as be ts the original architecture but all have modern bathrooms. e beautiful vistas from the south lawn are the backdrop to afternoon drinks and a leisurely lunch. ere are also six contemporary, self-contained Lakeside Suites set around a courtyard garden, with generous spaces and sliding glass walls that open to a private patio with a hot tub. e original Boathouse is the ultimate in secluded luxury: it has a hot tub, repit and seating on the edge of the lake. e interior is open plan, and there’s a steam room in the marbleclad bathroom. Take out the hotel’s vintage ames Slipperlaunch for a private lake tour or sta can arrange all kinds of activities from canoeing to ghyll scrambling. Ideally located for easy access from the M6, and exploring the Lake District national Park.

Doubles from £250

+44 (0)1539 447111; storrshall.com

THE TRADDOCK AUSTWICK, SETTLE

Owned and run by the Reynolds family for over two decades, this small, country house hotel is in the charming village of Austwick in Ribblesdale, just a few miles from Settle, and surrounded by the stunning scenery of the Yorkshire Dales National Park. Rooms are all individually decorated in a comfortable and homely style, with wooden headboards, sink-into armchairs and a mix of period and modern furnishings (the best have a rolltop bath as well as a walk-in shower). Local producers are key to the three AA-Rosette restaurant where head chef Ryan Shilton and the team o er the choice of a brasserie menu or an 11-course tasting menu for supper. e latter could include dishes such as mussel tikka masala, Wagyu brisket, and langoustines served with Mangalitza belly and sea buckthorn. As well as two dining rooms, there are a trio of lounges for afternoon tea, a bar and a glorious walled garden to relax in. Ask sta to prepare you a packed lunch for excellent walks from the doorstep such as the ree Peaks of Whernside or around the nearby market town of Kirkby Lonsdale.

Doubles from £125 +44(0)1524 251224; thetraddock.co.uk

WALES & THE MARCHES

From its emerald coast to its epic peaks, Wales is a glorious feast for the eyes and heart – and the local food isn’t bad either

The Sacred Garden by Gray Eaton (Anglesey, Wales). LPOTYA: Collection 15 (Ilex Press, £35)

THE BELL AT SKENFRITH SKENFRITH, MONMOUTHSHIRE

Contemporary and cosy rarely coincide, but this stylishly-converted 17th-century coaching inn is one place that convincingly combines the two. e Bell has been winning awards since 1999, when it was fully restored. Despite several major oods, committed owner Sarah Hudson has been busy since she took over in 2014, rebuilding and maintaining its warm atmosphere and enhancing its reputation for seasonal food. e hotel has a magni cent setting beside the River Monnow, with oak beams, antique furniture and comfy sofas beside the res inside, and a pretty garden terrace for warm weather. Dogs are always welcome and even have their own ‘pooch parlour’. In the candlelit agstone dining room, modern British dishes (with ingredients from the kitchen garden) are supported by a well-organised wine list. Many of the 11 sophisticated bedrooms, each charmingly named after a trout y, have beams, fourposters and billowing white duvets. Momouthshire is renowned for its miles of country walks and e Bell has created six of its own mapped circular walks in and around the Skenfrith area – a brilliant way to explore. Doubles from £185 +44 (0)1600 750235; skenfrith.co.uk

BODYSGALLEN HALL LLANDUDNO, NORTH WALES

Bodysgallen Hall is a digni ed, gentlepaced oasis of calm, only a short distance from Llandudno’s famous promenade and beaches. Climb its tower – the medieval core of the ne 17th-century mansion was allegedly built as part of the outlying defences of Conwy Castle – and you’ll be rewarded with a panoramic view that includes the mountains of Snowdonia National Park. e Grade I-listed house is lled with character, and boasts 15 bedrooms and 16 postcard pretty cottages within the estate’s 200 acres of wooded parkland. Grass terraces overlook the award-winning gardens, which include a walled rose garden, follies, a cascade and a rare 17th-century parterre of box hedges enclosing herbs. ere is a formal dining room in the main hall – Llandudno’s best restaurant, serving delicious, estate-grown and locally sourced ingredients. e former farmhouse now houses the luxurious spa, with a large indoor pool, spa bath, steam room, sauna and treatment rooms. All in all, Bodysgallen Hall is one of the most welcoming hotels in Britain.

Doubles from £260 +44 (0)1492 584466; bodysgallen.com

CASTLE HOUSE HEREFORD, HEREFORDSHIRE

is elegant Grade II-listed Georgian mansion, in a quiet, unrivalled location close to the historic Hereford Cathedral, is owned and run by the Watkins, a Herefordshire farming family. e 24 bedrooms and suites are stylish and individual, split between the main building and Number 25 Townhouse, where there are eight striking rooms. All o er an array of treats such as a decanter of Sherry and a hospitality box lled with local produce, to under oor heating in the bathrooms that are stocked with L’Occitane products. Light- lled public spaces include the beautiful Waterside Restaurant & Bar, with uninterrupted views over the hotel’s pretty garden and the old castle moat beyond. Head chef Gabor Katona creates seasonal menus featuring locally sourced and homegrown produce, some from the kitchen garden on the Watkins’ nearby Ballingham Hall Farm. e hotel is very popular with guests and locals, especially for its traditional Sunday roast with the farm’s homegrown Ballingham beef and seasonal vegetables. You absolutely mustn’t miss its famed afternoon tea either – the best in Hereford. is hotel ts perfectly into its surroundings and ticks all the boxes.

Doubles from £165

+44 (0)1432 356321; castlehse.co.uk

THE FELIN FACH GRIFFIN BRECON,

POWYS

is was the rst of Edmund and Charles Inkin’s three wonderfully unpretentious and enjoyable establishments (see also e Gurnard’s Head on p30 and e Old Coastguard on p35). Set amid magni cent scenery between the Black Mountains and Brecon Beacons, the old inn has become a sanctuary for food lovers, walkers and bookish visitors to nearby Hay-on-Wye, famed for its annual Hay Literary Festival that takes place each spring. ey all love the honest simplicity, the warmth of welcome, colour and comfort, both in ground oor rooms whose names say it all – Library, Tack Room, Aga Room – and in bedrooms where the beds and linens are second to none. Curl up here with one of the books that lie around and listen to your Roberts radio or simply gaze out at the hills, and you feel truly as though enveloped in a big embrace.

Room Eight takes over the top of the building – a glorious vantage point into the elds beyond. After a re ned dinner cooked up by head chef Nick Evans, based on the Welsh larder, you’ll head for bed with an equally big smile on your face.

Doubles from £175; from £255, incl dinner +44 (0)1874 620111; felinfachgri n.co.uk

theLIST

Best For… Remote Escapes

Get lost and find yourself again at one of these beautiful far-flung destinations.

By CHARLIE COLVILLE

3

The Gilpin

WINDERMERE

With a lovely perch in the hills of the Lake District, the Gilpin hotel is the perfect place to head if you’re after a countryside stay with luxurious creature comforts. Book a Spa Lodge, which are housed in individual cabins, and come with bubbling hot tubs and ensuite spas – so you can unwind in private. thegilpin.co.uk

Kip Hideaways

COUNTRY-WIDE

Small-scale escapes are a specialty for Kip Hideaways, which looks after over 200 holiday rentals scattered across the British Isles. Housing up to eight people, all its selfcatered hideaways, from treehouses to lakeside cabins, are off-thebeaten-path, for a true back-to-nature experience. kiphideaways.com

5

The Pierhouse ARGYLL

Located on the picturesque shores of Loch Linnh on Scotland’s wild west coast, The Pierhouse is a truly remote bolthole. After a day spent exploring the rugged hills and sparkling loch, you’ll fall into the deepest of sleeps in one of its 12 stylish yet comfortable rooms. pierhousehotel.co.uk

Kinloch Lodge

ISLE OF SKYE

This family-run hotel is known for its faultless Highland hospitality for over 50 years. Forage for local grub down by the shore, try nature-watching in the surrounding hills or while away the afternoon by one of the lodge’s roaring fires. kinloch-lodge.co.uk

4

The Grove Of Narberth

PEMBROKESHIRE

Expect the warmest of Welsh welcomes when you book a stay at The Grove of Narberth. This beautiful country house can be found nestled amongst rolling hills, quiet woodland and beautiful meadows; blink and you might just miss it. grovenarberth.co.uk

6

Grantley Hall

YORKSHIRE

A wellness retreat with all the trimmings, Grantley Hall offers the ultimate countryside getaway. Whether you spend your stay relaxing in the Three Graces Spa, tucking into Michelinstarred dishes or exploring the natural beauty of the Yorkshire Dales, you’re bound to come away feeling happily refreshed. grantleyhall.co.uk

Queen’s Head, Askham

CUMBRIA

Tucked away in a pretty village in the Lake District, The Queen’s Head is as cosy as a 17th-century pub with rooms can get. The perfect escape for foodies, you’ll find it hard to tear yourself away from the onsite AA Rosette restaurant (although your stunning surroundings will surely prove tempting). queensheadaskham.co.uk

11

7 Storrs Hall

LAKE DISTRICT

Historic luxury meets home comforts at Storrs Hall, the Grade II*-listed country house hidden away in the Cairngorms, England’s largest national park. You’ll be hard-pressed to find any kind of disturbance here, with 17 acres and a huge lake separating you from the rest of the world. storrshall.com

The Felin Fach Griffin

POWYS

This hotel boasts a coveted spot between the Black Mountains and the Brecon Beacons, with breathtaking views. This is the place to go if you crave a slower pace of life, with plenty of space to relax, places to explore in the local area and the delicious Welsh larder to tuck in to. eatdrinksleep.ltd.uk

The Gurnard’s Head

CORNWALL

Fancy a seaside getaway (without the crowds)? Your best bet is this quaint pub with rooms, high on a cliff on Cornwall’s Atlantic coast. It’s a fabulous spot from which to explore the area’s hidden coves. gurnardshead.co.uk

The Riverside At Aymestrey HEREFORDSHIRE

Nature enthusiasts will feel right at home in this inn, which has been welcoming guests since the 1600s. It has nine rooms, including three secluded Garden Lodges with private decked areas providing quick access to the nearby River Lugg valley. riversideaymestrey.co.uk

The Pig – Near Bath

BATH

This little piggy finds a home in the folds of the Mendip Hills, where it hosts 29 rooms with beautiful views. It’s recommended you bring your comfiest trainers, as the hotel sits near some must-see landmarks – like Cheddar Gorge and Glastonbury Tor – that are waiting to be explored. thepighotel.com

GROVE OF NARBERTH

NARBERTH, PEMBROKESHIRE

is striking country house was derelict when Neil and Zoe Kedward restored it in 2007. Today, it’s a charmingly luxurious hotel. Of the two main façades, one is three storeys high, gleaming white and many-windowed; the other is gabled, with arts and crafts elements that continue inside. ere are 25 beautiful bedrooms by top interior designer, Martin Hulbert. All have a view of the gardens, surrounding elds or Preseli Hills, while some of the cottage suites come with fabulous glass box garden lounges. Martin was also tasked with creating an inviting traditional Welsh-inspired look for the ground oor, with charming vintage and handcrafted elements. Dinners in the four AA Rosette Fernery restaurant, with stunning wallpaper made from ferns pressed by the team, are a highlight. You can also eat more simply in the relaxed, rustic-style Artisan Rooms brasserie or al fresco in the courtyard, surrounded by apple trees. Whichever you choose, the food is superb; executive chef Douglas Balish’s creations are imaginative, locally sourced and always incredibly delicious.

Doubles from £390 +44 (0)1834 860915; grovenarberth.co.uk

PENMAENUCHAF HOTEL

ERYRI, NORTH WALES

e fantastical landscape of Eryri (Snowdonia) National Park is spellbinding. e stone-fronted mountain hideaway of Penmaenuchaf Hotel  ts right in. Perched high above the Mawddach estuary at the foot of the rugged Cadair Idris, this grand country house is celebrating a new chapter, with new owners Zoe and Neil Kedward. e couple took over in June 2022, growing their Seren family business, a lovely collection of proudly Welsh hotels and restaurants. ere are 13 delightful individually designed bedrooms. Traditional style and textures mingle with contemporary touches, with a sprinkling of Welsh arts, crafts and antiques. In the kitchen, head chef Tom Hine (who cut his teeth at Gidleigh Park and Lympstone Manor) and his talented team do a cracking job, using high-quality seasonal ingredients, sourced locally or from the hotel’s kitchen garden. Tuck into avour-packed British cooking, such as exquisite Welsh lamb, accompanied by caramelised turnip, sheep’s curd, gem lettuce and lamb jus. Of course, all is topped o by the phenomenal views of Eryri –and this gem of a retreat is the perfect base for exploring this extraordinary region.

Doubles from £230 +44 (0)1341 212121; penmaenuchaf.co.uk

THE RIVERSIDE INN AYMESTREY, LEOMINSTER, HEREFORDSHIRE

Sitting on the banks of the river Lugg, this attractive black-and-white-timbered, 16thcentury inn o ers guests the perfect opportunity to unwind, either by sipping local real ales and cider on the riverbank and spotting wildlife, or by relaxing beside a roaring log burner. e six original bedrooms are homely and comfortable – we adore the three beautifully designed garden rooms, decked out with all creature comforts and full of character. Each has its own veranda overlooking the glorious, unspoilt Herefordshire countryside. e Riverside is ideally located for walkers as it’s on the central point of the scenic Mortimer Trail, as well as being perfectly positioned for shing and other country sports. But what people really come here for is the food. Chef/patron Andy Link, a star of the local Slow Food Movement, grows 50 di erent fruits and vegetables on site and specialises in cooking with local Herefordshire, Shropshire and Welsh-border produce. Andy is committed to being creative with local crops, and makes his own treats from foraged goodies – hay and meadowsweet ice cream and lavender fudge, anyone? Simply the very best and always fabulous value.

Doubles from £89.50

+44 (0)1568 708440; riversideaymestrey.co.uk

TWR Y FELIN PEMBROKESHIRE, WALES

is former 19th-century mill-turned-boutique hotel, on the spectacular peninsula of Britain’s smallest city, St Davids, has always had charm. But when renowned architect Keith Gri ths, who has a passion for renovating Pembrokeshire buildings, took over this bolthole in 2015, he upped the ante. Now Wales’ rst contemporary art hotel, it’s all about the visual here, the large walls decorated with over 150 works of art commissioned of the local area. ese impactful artworks take centre stage in the 39 minimaliststyle bedrooms (including two suites), with their super king beds, handcrafted furniture and sweeping coastal views. ree AA Rosette Blas restaurant serves an excellent seasonal menu, focusing on local produce – and don’t miss the portrait of Catherine Zeta-Jones by street artist Pure Evil. ere’s also Cornel bar, a cosy art lover’s snug, gallery lounge Oriel Lounge and a meeting room. During the day, stroll to stunning Caerfai Bay or explore Oriel y Parc, both a stone’s throw away. Leave time to drop by Twr y Felin’s sister venues – 12th-century Roch Castle and beautifully-restored Penrhiw Priory. Upon return, relax with a holistic massage in the calming treatment room.

Doubles from £180

+44 (0)1437 725555; twryfelinhotel.com

SCOTLAND

A land of freezing lochs and towering munros, ruined castles and pretty cottages, Scotland is exhilarating, wild and always captivating

A GREENER SIDE OF SCOTLAND

LISA YOUNG takes a low-impact tour of the Highlands, finding local wines and innovative cuisine along the way

At rst glance, the appeal of a sauna in a converted horse box on the edge of Loch na Dal, Isle of Skye, in the rain, may not be obvious. A sauna is typically enjoyed in the calming comfort of a spa.

Yet inside the warm horse box sauna, handcrafted with carefully sourced materials and heated by a Finnish woodred stove, it was not hard to reach a state of meditative calm. However, when cool-down time came, the thought of leaving the protected warm space and plunging into the cold loch was unappealing. We tripped our way to the water’s edge, stepping cautiously and breathing slowly, trying not to think about it, then surrendered ourselves to the bracing waters.

It had been a grey November day when we arrived in Scotland a few days earlier, rolling into Perth station from London Euston on the Caledonian Sleeper train, a fun, comfortable and lowerimpact way of reaching the Highlands.

We were on a ve-day, intricately crafted trip of contrasts, guided by specialist Wilderness Scotland (and its partners), staying at an inspiring range of historic castles and luxury hotels, and enjoying gourmet dining and adventure experiences, while connecting with nature in Perthshire and on the Isle of Skye. Wilderness Scotland is committed to sustainable tourism and its goal is to achieve true net-zero status by the end of 2030.

Working with carbon consultants eCollective, Wilderness Scotland has developed one of the world’s first carbon labelling schemes for travel. It can measure not only the carbon impact of its entire business, but also each trip, allowing travellers to make carbonconscious travel decisions.

Our rst night was spent at Murrayshall Country Estate, where fabulous views of the Perthshire landscape blend with golf greens and ancient woodland walking trails. e estate’s Eòlas restaurant (meaning ‘experience’ in Gaelic) o ers ne dining and innovative Highland cuisine from a larder of Perthshire’s nest ingredients. It is more than enough to tempt any foodie through their door.

A new masterplan was recently announced that will provide a viable, ecologically sound future for the estate, ensuring its resiliency for decades to come. Plans include introducing more outdoor pursuits, a sports ground, camping grounds (including a glamping pod), new lodges, plus a café, spa and leisure facilities.

At nearby Cairn O’Mohr, a characterful award-winning winery, we sampled excellent fruit wines, blossom-scented sparkling wines, ciders and bourtree (elderberry) juices on the winery tour. All the ingredients are foraged or produced within a 16-mile radius of the winery. Locals can be seen dropping o huge bags of home-grown apples to be used in the production of the winery’s unusual yet delicious beverages. e fun surroundings are colourful, creative and down to earth, and we were taken aback by the wealth of gourmet and avoursome food available in its café, the generous portions using locally grown produce, and served by friendly and attentive sta .

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Eilean Donan Castle; the Pickled Peacock cafe at Cairn O’Mohr winery; chocolate tasting with the Highland Chocolatier, Iain Burnett; a suite at Murrayshall Estate

I n the village of Grandtully, we experienced a private chocolate tasting session with world-renowned master chocolatier Iain Burnett, aka the Highland Chocolatier. Iain’s clients include Albert Roux, Gordon Ramsay and British Airways First. He uses only natural ingredients to create his famous unique Velvet Tru es, leaving out the usual arti cial preservatives and additives to create a luxurious ganache. Iain sources a sustainable rare cocoa from the island of São Tomé and combines this with fresh cream from local herds of Scottish Friesians, local heather honey, and fruit infused with natural spices, to create his mouth-watering avours and textures.

We drove to Scotland’s west coast through film-worthy Highland landscapes and atmospheric glens, past glass-plated lochs and one of the most iconic sights in Scotland –13th century Eilean Donan Castle – before driving for ten minutes ‘over the sea to Skye’ by bridge, to our home for the next few days, Kinloch Lodge.

is is where the aforementioned horse box sauna has its home, towed to Kinloch Lodge from Findhorn Bay, east of Inverness, by its creator, Rupert Hutchinson, co-founder of certi ed B Corp sustainability consultancy Living Alive. ‘ e premise of Living Alive is getting people into the outdoors and really facilitating spaces for personal, meaningful experiences outside,’ says Rupert.

‘ e sauna is one of our tools for nature connection; it’s an amazing thing to be able to put this on the back of the van and drive it to the most extraordinarily remote place, giving people access to the wild, while feeling warm and comfortable. It’s not so much about running a mobile sauna business, it’s about incorporating it into experiences in the outdoors and that’s very much related to our business.’

Kinloch Lodge sits on the shore of Loch na Dal at the foot of Kinloch Hill. It was originally a farm, then a shooting lodge for

the Macdonald family, until their home was opened as a family-run hotel in 1972 by Godfrey Macdonald (8th Baron Macdonald of Sleat) and his wife, Lady Claire. Today, it is run by their daughter, our friendly host, Isabella Macdonald.

e charming, rustic hotel combines the relaxed comfort of Highland hospitality with delectable, award-winning food, whisky on tap, and super kingsize beds. Surrounded by mirror-still lochs and soaring mountains, it is also a gateway for exploring the outstanding natural landscape of Skye.

W hen darkness fell, we retreated to the lodge’s intimate sitting room where, perched on brightly upholstered antique furniture, and under the gaze of historic Macdonald ancestral portraits, we sipped on creatively crafted pre-dinner cocktails.

e cosy restaurant embodies all that is best about Scottish produce and sources all its food from, or near, Skye. Dishes include Skye venison loin, organic Perthshire duck, Drumfearn mussels, Hebridean salmon and Lochalsh crab.

e following morning rain clouds threatened, but that didn’t dampen our enthusiasm to join the Skye Ghillie, aka Mitchell Partridge, an experienced guide, for an o -the-beaten track foraging experience, learning how to live o the land and reconnect with nature.

PHOTOS: © LISA YOUNG

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Trekking across the Cuillin Ranges on Isle of Sky; a suite in Inverlochy Castle; Kinloch Lodge; Mitchell Partridge, the Skye Ghillie; the sauna horsebox at Kinloch Lodge

On Loch na Dal’s rugged shoreline we waited patiently for a sea otter known to frequent the area. It was a no-show, but we did spot seals and birds of prey. Roe and red deer, porpoises, white-tailed and golden eagles are spotted regularly around the lodge.

We scrambled through nearby ancient Kinloch Forest in search of plants and, speci cally, wild edible chanterelle and sa ron milk cap mushrooms. Various wild plants were pointed out, some so poisonous they would kill a human in minutes if ingested. We collected a pile of orangecoloured chanterelles and our ghillie soon had a small re going, using birch bark ignited with traditional int and steel. From his backpack he produced a small pan and butter, and proceeded to fry the soft, sweet-tasting foraged food.

On our last day on Skye, we joined John MacRae of the John Muir Trust at the base of Blà Bheinn, overlooking Loch Slapin, where the Cuillin Range dominates the wild and rugged landscape. Wilderness Scotland is a supporter of the John Muir Trust, and its donations go towards protecting and maintaining this

popular hiking area, as well as wild land and peatland restoration, hiking trail maintenance and tree planting.

e John Muir Trust is a charity dedicated to the conservation, protection and restoration of the UK’s wild places. John Muir (1838-1914) is the Scots-born founder of the modern conservation movement. In 2021, the Trust launched a worldleading idea for a carbon emissions land tax in Scotland. With the climate crisis, this has become ever more urgent work.

Scotland’s fresh air and dramatic scenery are a tonic for the soul, whatever the weather. From castles to saunas, chocolate tasting to foraging, wild swimming to distillery tours and gin tasting, travelling with Wilderness Scotland and its partners is the perfect way to explore the best of luxury Scotland – and doing so sustainably.

BOOK IT: Wilderness Scotland o ers venight itineraries from £4,000pp, including accommodation, transportation within the itinerary, a guide, activities and all meals. wildernessscotland.com/luxury-travel.

For further information on Luxury Scotland hotels, visit luxuryscotland.co.uk, and for more sustainable trips to Scotland, visit visitscotland.com.

DON’T MISS...

Your travel cheat sheet to get the best from your trip

WHERE TO STAY & EAT...

Inverlochy Castle Hotel, Fort William

Nestled in the foothills of the mighty Ben Nevis, the 19th century Inverlochy Castle Hotel, near Fort William, endeavours to showcase fine dining through its wonderful Scottish larder with exceptional flavours and seasonality. It only uses produce and products found in the UK to minimise its food miles and carbon footprint, and works closely with local artisan producers and suppliers. The two-Michelin-starred Seasgair restaurant by Michel Roux Jr serves decadent delights including Cornish crab salad, Scottish venison Wellington and baked Tunworth, all served on antique furniture gifted to the castle by the King of Norway. inverlochycastlehotel.com

Fonab Castle Hotel and Spa, Pitlochry

Fonab is a magical Scots Baronial castle that has been lovingly restored into Pitlochry’s only five-star hotel and spa. Nestled in woodland above Loch Faskally, it perfectly combines comfort, style and breathtaking views. Every detail of its 42 bedrooms, two restaurants and spa have been beautifully designed. fonabcastlehotel.com

SLOW SCOTLAND: WHAT TO SEE & DO

E-biking

Join a Wilderness Scotland 23-kilometre e-bike ride from Inverlochy Castle Hotel to explore Old Inverlochy Castle and the Caledonian Canal. wildernessscotland.com

Yoga & Meditation with Rhona Coogan

Yoga at An Crübh (meaning The Hub) community centre, where Rhona Coogan offers yoga and meditation sessions in a luxuriously modern studio with the most spectacular views through vast windows overlooking the Sleat Peninsula. The centre offers a café, a shop selling local produce, and a post office and located beside the main road on the A851 at Camus Cross. skyeforall.co.uk/an-crubh

Photography with David Russell

David is a landscape photographer and offers photography tours and workshops where he gives tips and advice on getting the best from your camera, whether it be an SLR or phone camera. highlandwildscapes.com

GETTING AROUND...

Little’s Luxury Chauffeur Service including train station transfers

In 2022, Little’s were awarded Silver by Green Tourism in recognition of its sustainable approach to business. It uses the latest plug-in hybrid Mercedes saloons, offering a greener chauffeur service to clients, as well as having a dedicated Green Team who make it a priority to monitor their current sustainability measures, set action plans, research new initiatives to reduce environmental, water and carbon footprints. littles.co.uk n

THE BONNIE BADGER

GULLANE,

EAST LOTHIAN

Chef Tom Kitchin wowed the world with Edinburgh hotspot e Kitchin, which saw him become Scotland’s youngest winner of a Michelin star in 2007. Just over a decade later, in 2018, Tom and his wife Michaela opened e Bonnie Badger, a modern Scottish restaurant with rooms, in the enchanting coastal village of Gullane, on the outskirts of Edinburgh. And, once again, Tom has nailed it with his ‘From Nature to Plate’ philosophy, combining French techniques with East Lothian’s bountiful larder. ere’s an enviable range of dining options to showcase it, too, from à la carte dining at e Stables to exceptional pub classics at Broc Bar, seasonal favourites straight from the grill in the garden and carefully crafted afternoon tea. It’s no surprise that they are proud holders of both a Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand and 5 AA Gold Stars. But it’s not just about the cuisine here. ere are 12 lovely individually designed bedrooms and one master suite, spread across the main house and two cottages, adjacent to the beautiful garden. Bring the whole gang –children are warmly welcomed with a special ‘Scallie’s Corner’ and ‘Cubs’ menu and it is dog-friendly too.

Rooms from £225 +44 (0)1620 621111; bonniebadger.com

KINLOCH LODGE ISLE OF SKYE

Skye is one of the most spectacular places on earth and Kinloch sits in one of its most beautiful parts, the shores of Loch na Dal. Fittingly, given its history as a hunting lodge, it o ers the services of its own ghillie, Mitchell Partridge, for stalking, shing, foraging and wilderness walks – he’s very knowledgeable and known for providing great ‘craic’. Foodies ock here. Hardly surprising, since it belongs to cookery writer Lady Claire Macdonald and her husband, Lord Godfrey. Although no longer living here, their reputation for the best Highland hospitality continues with their charming daughter, Isabella, at the helm and inspirational head chef, Jordan Webb in the kitchen. Unfussy seasonal cooking has always been its hallmark, from seared north Skye venison and Broadford chard to llet of Lochalsh sea trout with fresh peas. Inside there’s a welcoming mix of the well-bred and unpretentious, with antiques, family portraits and a cosy whisky bar for a nightcap before guests head to bed in one of the attractive, seriously comfortable rooms. Kinloch is somewhere to relax and recharge, and always almost impossible to leave.

Doubles from £300

+44 (0)1471 833333; kinloch-lodge.co.uk

THE MACHRIE ISLE OF ISLAY, ARGYLL

What a spectacular setting, right by the dunes on the Isle of Islay. e Machrie has 47 cleanlined contemporary rooms, suites and lodges (the latter come with an open-plan living, dining and kitchen area). ere’s a championship golf course designed by former European Ryder Cup vice-captain DJ Russell, e-bikes for exploring and scenic coastal pathways on the doorstep leading to beaches or the hills. e hotel can arrange shing trips and guided sea kayaking to spot seals, pu ns, and other wildlife. For downtime, massages and facial treatments are available, and three cosy lounges provide the perfect retreat. Start the evening with a ne Islay malt whisky on 18 Restaurant & Bar’s terrace – with panoramic views across the green to the Atlantic Ocean – before tucking into dishes from the new ‘Essence of Islay’ tasting experience, which celebrates Scotland’s natural larder, such as Loch Gruinart Oysters paired with an Islay Ales stout reduction and foraged seaweed crumb. Just a 25-minute ight from Glasgow or two hours by ferry from Kennacraig, Islay is accessible yet feels perfectly remote. e Machrie o ers outstanding sea views and so much to explore on the island.

Doubles from £202 +44 (0)1496 302310; themachrie.com

THE PIERHOUSE HOTEL

PORT APPIN, ARGYLL

Surrounded by the raw, breathtaking beauty of western Scotland, e Pierhouse sits on the shores of Loch Linnhe. A relaxed hotel, it’s the ideal base for exploring this unforgettable part of the world and for sampling the very best of its local produce. e 12 bedrooms include several with loch views, which look out directly across to the islands of Lismore and Shuna, and the Morvern Peninsula beyond. Head chef Michael Leathley is in charge of the Michelin-recognised and two AA Rosetteawarded seafood restaurant, where he calls his cooking ‘bringing the outside in’ – in other words, the freshest west coast seafood such as creel-caught langoustines and Loch Creran oysters, plus Scottish meat, and vegetables, all prepared and cooked using classic, simple techniques. ere is a lounge, with a wood-burning stove, for relaxing in after a day spent hiking or biking, and e Ferry Bar (named after the foot passenger ferry from Port Appin that has been running since 1750) where you’ll nd an impressive selection of Scottish gins and more than 200 types of malt whisky to sample.

Doubles from £130

+44 (0)1631 730302; pierhousehotel.co.uk

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theLIST

The Best… Golf Escapes

These hotels offer a real hole-in-one for sports fans.

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Congham Hall Hotel

NORFOLK

Now we’ve all heard of a pub crawl, but how about a golf crawl? Congham Hall is a prime position for sporting enthusiasts, as it sits nearby six clubs on Norfolk’s golf coast. See if you can work your way through them without being lured away by Congham’s in-house spa. conghamhallhotel.co.uk

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By CHARLIE COLVILLE

Headlam Hall

COUNTY DURHAM

Find a slower pace of life at Headlam Hall, a 17th-century country house flanked by farmland, a luxury spa and its own (small but mighty) golf course. The nine-hole course is home to woodland, streams and ponds, setting golfers up for a game that will challenge their dexterity. headlamhall.co.uk

5

Ellenborough Park

CHELTENHAM

Fancy golf with a view? You’re in luck at Ellenborough Park, which is just five minutes away from Cleeve Hill Golf Course. Surrounded by views of the Cotswolds countryside, this is a course built into the natural landscape – with deep quarries, slopes and escarpments providing a fun challenge for players. ellenboroughpark.com

The Machrie

ISLAY

Scotland’s leading luxury golf hotel is the first point of call for any sporting enthusiasts booking a UK golfcation. Guests have been playing here since 1891, surrounded by stunning seascapes and glimpses of Beinn Bheigeir and the Paps of Jura. themachrie.com

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The Eastbury Hotel & Spa

DORSET

This Georgian townhouse is the perfect starting point for an activity-led holiday, making it an ideal stopover for the whole family (and the dog). Try your hand at horse riding, ballooning and quad biking, or choose from two local golf clubs nearby to practice your swing. theeastburyhotel.co.uk

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The Grove

HERTFORDSHIRE

Practise your drive on one of the UK’s most prestigious golf courses when you visit The Grove. Having hosted both the World Golf Championship and the British Masters, the course is now open to all who want to give the sport a go. thegrove.co.uk

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Castle House

HEREFORDSHIRE

Steeped in history from head to toe, it should be no surprise that Castle House would also have links to the county’s oldest golf club. Guests at the hotel can enjoy a discounted green fee at the Herefordshire Golf Club, which boasts fantastic views over the Shropshire Hills and Brecon Beacons. castlehse.co.uk

Slieve Donard

COUNTY DOWN

Slieve Donard is known as Northern Ireland’s favourite resort for a reason; set across six acres of private grounds, the Victorian hotel is host to 180 rooms, an award-winning spa and has a pretty perch over the world-famous Royal County Down Golf Course (a favourite for the likes of Tiger Woods and Rory McIlroy). slievedonardhotel.com

Ballyfin COUNTY LAOIS

Sitting at the foot of the Slieve Bloom Mountains, this fivestar hotel lets visitors get away from urban life with countryside sports, delicious food and stunning scenery. When you can pull yourself away, head over to the nearby K Club, Mount Juliet or The Heritage for a few rounds of championship golf. ballyfin.com

The Goodwood WEST SUSSEX

The home of countryside sporting, The Goodwood is especially well-versed in the art of golf. The hotel boasts two 18-hole courses designed to keep players of all abilities on their toes; opt for the flexible membership to get your fill of both and secure tickets to the Festival of Speed. goodwood.com

11 Linthwaite House

Northcote

LAKE DISTRICT

While many flock to Linthwaite House to explore the Lake District’s scenic trails, others use the hotel as a base for a golfing break. The hotel is located not too far from Windermere Golf Club, making it easy to spend days on the course and evenings curled up in a cosy room overlooking the hills. leeucollection.com

LANCASHIRE

When you’re not tucking into Michelinstarred grub or sinking into the plush beds at Northcote, we’d suggest exploring one of the three Open Championship courses nearby, like the Royal Lytham (above). Book onto one of the hotel’s bespoke gourmet golfing breaks to get the best of both worlds. northcote.com

THE THREE CHIMNEYS COLBOST, ISLE OF SKYE

Clued-up foodies have been ocking to this renowned three-AA Rosette restaurant with rooms on the shores of Loch Dunvegan for more than 35 years, attracted by its ethos of showcasing Scotland’s bountiful natural larder. It is part of e Wee Hotel Company alongside e Pierhouse in Port Appin. On the food front, virtually all ingredients are sourced from within a few miles, as well as the wider Scottish Highlands. Head chef Scott Davies collects fresh crab and langoustines from the shermen’s boats in Dunvegan’s harbour; lamb and beef come from nearby Vatten Farm, while double dived scallops are sourced from Sconser. For those who fancy a front-row seat watching the chefs in action, there’s also the Kitchen Table (bookable for groups of two to eight), where you can enjoy a journey through Skye’s bountiful larder. Next door, the House Over-By has six calming, beautiful rooms to choose from, all with luxury pampering products in the bathrooms. It really is the ideal place to stay after a truly unforgettable dinner. Doubles from £295 to £395, depending on the season.

+44 (0)1470 511258; threechimneys.co.uk

THE WITCHERY EDINBURGH

James omson’s Gothic conversion of this historic 16th century building – which is named after those burnt on the stake for being witches on Castlehill – is darkly mysterious and thrillingly exotic. At the top of Edinburgh’s historic Royal Mile, you enter through an ancient close into a amboyantly theatrical world, where ceilings are richly gilded and painted walls are hung with tapestries or panelled in oak, and rooms are decorated in jewel-like colours with swathes of velvet. Above the restaurant and in the adjacent Jollies Close, the nine suites are vast, sumptuous and wickedly romantic, furnished with four-posters or extravagantly curtained beds, antiques and oil paintings. A celebrity haunt, the Witchery restaurant not only looks magical, with its red leather seats, panelling and candlelight, but showcases the best produce Scotland has to o er. e Angus beef steak tartare is legendary. And the afternoon tea as decadent as you’d hope, featuring Edinburgh gin-cured salmon sandwiches and chocolate tarts. In summer, there’s al fresco dining on the private topiary- lled terrace of the hotel’s other restaurant, the Secret Garden.

Doubles from £595 info@thewitchery.com; thewitchery.com

The CHYPRÉ FragranceFamily

IRELAND & NORTHERN IRELAND

From its coasts’ wild beauty to its rich green mountains, the landscapes of Ireland and Northern Ireland are rich in history and culture

Howth, Dublin by Dawid Kalisinski

Photography © Getty Images

BALLYFIN BALLYFIN, COUNTY LAOIS

One of Ireland’s most important neoclassical houses, Bally n stands in its own 614-acre demesne, which includes a lake, Victorian fernery, Edwardian rockery and walled garden, not to mention the tower with panoramic views. A Downton-esque knot of sta await guests on the steps as they arrive, setting the tone for service that is old school, yet warm and friendly – Richard E Grant once quipped that it is ‘like stepping back in time, without the inconvenience of no electricity’. e reception rooms are lled with superb antiques and paintings, and there’s the fabulous indoor pool, vitality pool, sauna and treatment rooms. e 20 bedrooms are all gorgeous, in classic Irish country house fashion. ere is also a beautiful private Gardeners Cottage available to rent. As for the food, with the highly regarded Richard Picard-Edwards at the helm – he was previously at Lords of the Manor and Lucknam Park – it e ortlessly lives up to the surroundings. Standards are sky high at Bally n, and it’s the sort of place where one jarring note would spoil the show. Happily, it never does: this is one of Europe’s great hotels. Doubles from €750 +353 (0)5787 55866; bally n.com

BALLYNAHINCH CASTLE RECESS, COUNTY GALWAY

Set at the foot of the Twelve Bens on the Wild Atlantic Way, Ballynahinch Castle has a history as colourful as its riverside setting. Surrounded by 700 acres of rugged Connemara landscape, this Relais and Châteaux hotel has a big heart that captivates its many returning guests (it enchanted Seamus Heaney, who wrote his poem, Ballynahinch Lake, while staying here). Bedrooms are spacious, comfortable and recently redecorated with elegant oral wallpaper and artworks; some also come with modern four-poster beds. e big draw is the superb salmon shing (the atmospheric, wood-panelled pub is full of memorabilia and has a famous set of weighing scales) but other activities on o er include guided estate walks on woodland trails. In the ne dining restaurant, which is hung with superb 20th century Irish art, the best tables are those overlooking the Owenmore River. Stewarding the kitchen is executive head chef Danni Barry, who took over in January 2023, and has created a sophisticated seasonal menu championing local produce and ingredients plucked straight from the hotel’s walled garden.

Doubles from £270 +353 (0)95 31006; ballynahinch-castle.com

BREAC.HOUSE DUNFANAGHY, CO DONEGAL

Located on Donegal’s dramatic Horn Head overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, Breac.House was ten years in the planning but worth the wait. Opened in 2017 by Dubliners Cathrine Burke and Niall Campbell, this modern retreat triumphs, cleverly tting into the wild landscape. Designed by award-winning local architects and built by a team of local tradesmen, it’s about the very best of Irish design here. e four rooms, with spectacular panoramic sea and mountain views, are deliciously cosy, with super-king custom crafted oak beds, topped with pure Irish wool duvets, and bold terrazzo bathrooms. ings get even better when a scrumptious breakfast arrives through a hatch. During the day, explore the deserted beaches and ancient forests, hike in a national park, take a surf lesson, play a round of golf, visit art galleries and heritage buildings or just gaze at the ocean. Back at Breac.House, relax on the terrace, curl up in the library or beside a roaring re. ere is also a seaweed bath and wood- red sauna. ere is no restaurant but the pre-dinner drinks are fabulous as are the many excellent eateries nearby. Double rooms from €355 breac.house

DROMOLAND CASTLE

NEWMARKET-ON-FERGUS, COUNTY CLARE

e ancestral home of the O’Briens of Dromoland, whose lineage dates back 1,000 years to Brian Boru, one of the last High Kings of Ireland, this historic castle hotel has been welcoming guests since the 16th century. As you’d expect, it’s t for royalty, from the delightfully sumptuous bedrooms (the best suites each have a grand four-poster bed and a separate dressing room) to the ne-dining restaurant the Earl of omond, where chefs marry classical cooking techniques with the nest Irish local produce. e beauty of a stay here is that days are as relaxed or active as you wish. For those who want to take things slowly, why not spend the morning reading the papers by the re in the antique- lled gallery and drawing room, before booking in for pampering treatments in the spa? Meanwhile, the 450-acre estate o ers country pursuits galore, including archery, clay shooting, horse riding, biking and falconry. Dromoland Lough is excellent for trout shing, and boating, plus there’s an 18-hole championship golf course, tennis courts, swimming pool, walled gardens and nature trails to explore, and go-karting for the kids.

Doubles from €505 +353 (0)61368144; dromoland.ie

THE MERRION HOTEL DUBLIN

Dublin’s nest hotel is e ortlessly gracious. Everything feels right, from the location opposite Government Buildings to the twinkly doormen, polished service and classically elegant bedrooms. Four tall and sober Georgian townhouses – one of which was the birthplace of the rst Duke of Wellington – have been opened up to create a series of expansive, welcoming reception rooms with stucco ceilings, peat res, antique furniture and the owner’s outstanding collection of 19th and 20th century Irish art, which you can learn about in a discreet audio tour. Just as impressive is the formal garden, graced by Rowan Gillespie’s wonderful statue of James Joyce. e ne dining restaurant is the two Michelin-starred province of Patrick Guilbaud, with the Garden Room Restaurant available for a more casual dining experience. ere’s also a spa with a pillared in nity pool, luxurious spa treatment rooms and newlyopened Hair Salon. No surprise that the charming general manager, Peter MacCann, has been in place since e Merrion opened, but it’s quite a surprise to nd that was just 25 years ago. It feels timeless.

Doubles from €370 +353 (0)1603 0600; merrionhotel.com

SLIEVE DONARD NEWCASTLE, COUNTY DOWN

Originally built by the Belfast and County Down Railway in the 19th century as an end-of-the-line holiday destination, this Victorian hotel is anked by a golden beach on side and the worldfamous Royal County Down golf course on the other. Now part of Marine & Lawn Hotels & Resorts, it is midway through an extensive renovation that will include a reimagined lobby, rooms and restaurant concept. e Mountains of Mourne are on the doorstep and o er fantastic walking and climbing opportunities, while the breathtaking Tollymore Forest Park is a few minutes away by car (handily the hotel is also only 30 miles south of Belfast and 90 miles north of Dublin). Make sure you pay a visit to the state-of-the-art spa, a haven of escapism with a pool, steam room and sauna, plus a tness studio, Zen Studio (for classes such as yoga and tai chi) and Espa treatments. And there are three restaurants to choose from for relaxed drinking and dining – whether guests fancy light bites, cocktails or a sit-down supper.

Doubles from £220 +44(0)28 4372 1066; marineandlawn.com/slievedonard

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Best For… Small-Scale Escapes theLIST

You’ll be one of only a few guests in these small-but-mighty hotels.

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Trewornan Manor

CORNWALL

A boutique B&B set in the North Cornwall countryside, Trewornan Manor was restored from a 13th-century Grade II-listed building. You won’t want to leave seven bedrooms and their pocket-sprung beds and feather-filled bedding, but the 25 acres of mature gardens and historic water meadows will coax you out. trewornanmanor.co.uk

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By TESSA DUNTHORNE

The Sun Inn

SUFFOLK

The Sun Inn is a coaching inn on the Essex-Suffolk border with seven airy rooms that boast bright vistas of the Dedham Vale nature reserve. Its team is the perfect blend of informal and expert, so you’ll be well looked after – and you’re encouraged to rent a boat or borrow a bike. thesuninndedham.com

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Number One Bruton SOMERSET

Owners Claudia Waddams and Aled Rees have transformed this Georgian townhouse, medieval forge and row of cottages into this sought-after 12-bedroom hotel in uber-trendy Bruton. Be sure to also book a table next door at Osip. numberonebruton.com

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Beaverbrook Town House

LONDON

Ideally located for a weekend seeing the bright lights of the big city, the Town House is Beaverbrook’s London outpost. The 14 suites are named after celebrated London theatres, plus there’s a Japanese restaurant and glam cocktail bar to enjoy after dark. beaverbrooktownhouse.co.uk

The Witchery by the Castle

EDINBURGH

A small hotel with a grand concept, this flamboyant Gothic hotel has glamorous suites with sumptuous velvet, deep oak panelling – and more, more, more. Memorable meals champion the best of Scottish produce. thewitchery.com

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The Three Chimneys

ISLE OF SKYE

A world-renowned restaurant on the Isle of Skye, this is the place to head to, in order to taste the best of Scotland’s bountiful natural larder. The House Over-By, the hotel next door, has only six cosy rooms, designed with quiet elegance and comfort in mind. thethreechimneys.co.uk

Foxhill Manor

THE COTSWOLDS

Tucked away on the Farncombe Estate, eight-bedroom Foxhill Manor wants its guests to know that there are no rules. Roam the manor at any hour – with a helping host always on hand, and a very accommodating chef. foxhillmanor.com

The New Inn GLOUCESTERSHIRE

In 2020, Baz and Fred reopened the 16th-century New Inn after completing a full renovation. It now offers three luxurious ensuite rooms and two suites, one of which boasts its own patio. The restaurant menu, handcrafted by Baz and Fred, provides an array of delicious dishes. thenewinncoln.co.uk

Brocco In The Park

SHEFFIELD

Luxury on the edge of the city of Sheffield and bordering Endcliffe Park, Brocco on the Park offers eight bedrooms adorned with the most sumptuous furnishings. It’s designed with ‘living and sleeping well in mind’, and you’ll surely agree as you don its cotton robes after an indulgent soak in the penthouse suite’s freestanding bath. brocco.co.uk

The Pig-In-TheWall

HAMPSHIRE

Nestled within the medieval walls of Southampton, this bolthole has 12 chic bedrooms, which all boast retro radios – and self-described ‘higgledypiggledy’ layout. Adventure out to New Forest countryside and coast nearby. thepighotel.com

The East End Arms

HAMPSHIRE

THE COTSWOLDS

11 The Stump

A stylish ten-bedroomed hotel, The Stump is a rambling coach inn with flickering open fires and an impressive craft beer and pizza offering. The rooms are simple – yet comfortable – and perfectly located for trekking the fields which surround Circenster. thestump.co.uk

Although John Ilsley, the former bass guitarist of Dire Straits, co-owns The East End Arms with wife Steph, the hotel exudes more charm than rock-and-roll. A pub with rooms with a lot of heart, the five quaint bedrooms sit on top of the informal dining room, manned by Moray Cameron. eastendarms.co.uk

PRIVATE HOUSES

Searching for an escape just for you?

These beautiful private homes are perfect for holing up in sublime luxury with your nearest and dearest

BIBURY FARM BARNS BIBURY, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

In 2017, fourth generation farmer George Phillips and his wife Polly set about converting ve ancient stone barns on their land into a self-catering rural retreat. e result is a series of gorgeous hideaways suitable for everyone from young families to large gatherings, each combining contemporary style with rustic character: wood-beamed kitchens, open-plan living spaces with log burners and private courtyards for al fresco dining. Photographs and paintings by local artists adorn the walls; there are huge marble-e ect showers and verdigris bathrooms; snugs for lm nights and boot rooms for kicking o muddy wellies after walks – perhaps along the River Coln or around chocolate-box Bibury village, a ten minute walk away. e largest, e Grain Store, sleeps ten and has a large cedar hot tub; the smallest, the Cart Shed, sleeps six. e barns can be booked individually or together, and there’s a concierge service so anything from a fully stocked fridge to chef-cooked dinners can be arranged. Located between Burford and Cirencester, this is an ideal base from which to explore the Cotswolds.

From £1,200 for 3 nights mid-week, o -season +44 (0)1285 706188; biburyfarm.com

CORNWELL MANOR CHIPPING NORTON, OXFORDSHIRE

It’s not just the honey-coloured house, or the hazy views down to the lakes as you peak through the fronds of wisteria from the master bedroom, nor even the individually decorated bedrooms. No, it’s the constant allusion to the fact that Cornwell Manor is a beloved family home that makes it such a special place – the family silver in the dining room, the portraits hanging in the hall and the photograph albums in the drawing room. Ideal for large family gatherings (sleeping up to 24) – with a panelled dining room seating 14 and a ballroom seating 70 – it’s a home from home that has seamlessly become the perfect rural retreat, complete with a swimming pool, tennis court and croquet lawn. Charlotte at Cornwell Manor is particularly well known for her party planning prowess – to make a family weekend unforgettable, dine under the stars on the pretty terrace under the dappled light of the weeping pear trees or invite friends to a summer garden party. Cornwell Manor’s claim to fame is that it has been in a number of lms and TV series, including e Holiday, starring Jude Law and Cameron Diaz.

From £29,500 for 3 nights

Licensed for weddings

+44 (0)1608 698673; cornwellmanor.com

ELSKER BROADWAY, WORCESTERSHIRE

Part of the 400-acre rolling Farncombe Estate, Elsker is a beautifully decorated eight-bedroom house with views over the surrounding green woodland and Cotswold countryside. Sleeping up to 16 people, the self-catering house features seven double bedrooms, all ensuite, and one children’s twin bedroom, next to a family bathroom. e state-of-the-art, open plan kitchen and dining room has twin ovens and dishwashers, and an American-style fridge freezer, so you can cook up a feast for the whole family in style. Outside, there’s a private heated swimming pool for splashing in, a private hot tub, plus a barbecue and fully stocked bar for al fresco summer parties. Also in the house is a games room complete with vintage games such as Space Invaders and a pool table, and a cosy library. ere’s plenty of activities to keep everyone busy on the wider estate, too, from axe throwing and clay shooting to yoga and cocktail making. Or take a leisurely stroll to the nearby visit of Broadway, or on some of the nature trails across the estate. A great choice for a staycation with family or friends.

From £1,580 per night

+44(0) 1386 854300; hillsidehangouts.co.uk

FOWLER’S HOUSE KINGHAM, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

e original pioneer of sustainable luxury, Daylesford’s cottages encapsulate the brand’s ethos of beautiful, thoughtful design. Fowler’s House is the largest of the collection, sleeping up to eight adults and four children, with a spacious dining room, farmhouse kitchen with a large wooden table seating 12, two spacious sitting rooms and bunk beds in the attic room. Outside, the large sweeping terrace o ers uninterrupted views across farmland. Carole Bamford and her team of architects worked alongside local craftsmen and artisans to carefully renovate the historic buildings, restoring reclaimed timber beams and exposing the original Cotswolds stone walls. e surrounding countryside is celebrated throughout, with hazel branches felled from the Daylesford estate to form architectural features, hooks and rails, and wool from Daylesford Organic Farm’s sheep used to insulate the roofs and make woollen blankets. e interiors are a combination of antique pieces sourced from around the world, bespoke and furniture reupholstered with vintage fabrics, and Daylesford homewares.

From £7,000 per week

+44 (0)1608 658389; thewildrabbit.co.uk

KIP HIDEAWAYS NATIONWIDE

Looking for a weekend away that’s just a bit unique? We’ve got exactly the thing for you. Kip Hideaways o ers a curation of beautiful, boutique escapes across the country, all of which o er unforgettable experiences and have been handpicked by travel experts. Hunker down in a classic Airstream with incredible panoramic views in Skye or book the family-friendly Acorn Cabin in south Devon, a gorgeous riverside location that sleeps two adults and two children, and o ers private shing. Or check into the Author’s Escape cabin in north Devon, with its tranquil setting and sea views, or the Architect’s Hut in Dorset, with its conscience-salving eco design and personal hot tub. Wherever you end up booking, though, you can be sure that every rental is under-the-radar, and o ers a totally unique and memorable stay. Kip Hideaways works on a membership system, meaning you’ll also receive special o ers and gifts, as well as exclusive discounts, content and recommendations to get the most out of your stay, wherever that may be.

Membership from £3.99 a month or £19 a year kiphideaways.com

KNOCK HOUSE ISLE OF MULL, SCOTLAND

At the heart of the 32,000 acre Benmore Estate on the enthralling Isle of Mull sits Knock House, a classic Scottish country house that has everything you need for an unforgettable stay in the Inner Hebrides. e 12-bedroom house, sleeping up to 20, was originally a gift from the Duke of Argyll to his new wife, Queen Victoria’s fourth daughter Princess Louise – the Duke extensively expanded the existing structure on the site. Today, it remains full of historic charm and unique character, alongside all the modern amenities you need for a comfortable stay. At the heart of the house is its woodpanelled ceilidh hall; there’s also a dining room seating up to 20, a billiard room, and wine cellar stocked with Berry Bros. & Rudd’s nest bottles. Relax with a glass of ne Scottish whisky in front of the roaring re, or drink in the views of the rugged emerald hills. On the wider estate visitors can enjoy all kinds of eld sports – deer stalking, clay pigeon shooting and shing – as well as hill walking, pony trekking and golf. e ultimate escape, for people who really want that unique country house experience.

From £21,000 per week

+44 (0)1680 300 229; benmoreestate.co.uk

TREVEAR FARM WADEBRIDGE, CORNWALL

With all the luxurious amenities of a boutique hotel, but featuring the privacy of a private home, Trevear Farm on the beautiful North Cornwall coast is the perfect place to escape and unwind. ere’s four self-catering cottages to choose from here, including grand vebedroom Broadview, which has a hot tub, barbecue and garden room with a pool table, and cosy Barn Owl Roost, a cottage with two bedrooms, patio and wood-burning stove. O -site, there’s also Lowen, a fabulous threebedroom cottage with sweeping views over the Camel Estuary and a heated swimming pool, and four-bed Rockview, which features a magni cent sun deck to make the most of its position overlooking the same stretch of water. On site and available for all guests to use is an indoor swimming pool, steam room, gym and wellness room. e farm is ideally located for visiting nearby Padstow, with its restaurants and pretty harbour, and for accessing some of Cornwall’s most spectacular beaches. Farm tours are also available upon request, and the friendly team can organise everything from yoga classes to horse riding to water sports for you.

From £839

+44 (0)1872 553491; trevearfarm.co.uk

SAND & STONE ESCAPES NATIONWIDE

If you’re after a staycation with the ‘wow’ factor, then Sand & Stone Escapes has you covered. Born out of a passion for design, quality and unique holiday stays, the brand’s impressive portfolio of coastal, city and country hideaways and houses, can be found across the UK, including the Cotswolds, Devon, Norfolk, and Isle of Skye. Its managing director meets each property owner to determine whether their home is a suitable addition to the Sand & Stone family. As a result, the brand has curated an unbeatable selection of luxurious self-catering holiday homes to book. ere’s its agship property, Black Moon, a decadent oceanfront two-person bolthole situated on the shores of St Ives, perfect for romantic breaks. e Tree House in the Cotswolds – a real-life treetop cabin nestled in a pretty wooded valley, o ers a wood-burning stove and a freestanding bath in front of bifold doors, which you can push back for an incredible al-fresco bathing experience amid the leaves. Or, book one of their utterly charming cottages, from sweet 17th century 3 e Square to Lemons Cottage, a cosy thatched bolthole in Devon. A truly unique selection of escapes for your next weekend away.

Book from £125 per night

+44 (0)20 8740 3097; sandandstoneescapes.com

BRINGING ART TO LIGHT

Transforming Art Collections in the Finest Hotels, Great British Treasure Houses, Galleries and Museums, Private Collections, and Your Home.

Lighting design: Inverse Lighting Design Interior design: Yabu Pushelberg - Photography: Andrew Beasley