Great British & Irish Hotels 2017/18

GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2017/18

250 PLACES

to stay

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Editor’s Letter

164 116

W

elcome to this special fifth anniversary edition of Country & Townhouse’s Great British & Irish Hotels guide, now firmly established as an invaluable, independently selected showcase of the best hotels and inns in the land. Of course we all search for hotels online these days and physical guide books, once so prolific, are now rare, but we’ve found that people love having this book, both to use as a search tool and to display, for it is as beautiful as it is, I hope, practical. Over the past five years I’ve found it fascinating to see how the landscape – hotel-wise – has changed during that short time.

Change, but no change. Many of the hotels in this year’s guide are stalwarts that, year after year, I have had no hesitation in including because they purr along like well-oiled Bentleys – places like The Goring (page 123), Lime Wood (page 83), Hambleton Hall (page 155) and many more. Others are new, some of them brand new, such as The Rectory (page 68), The Mash Inn (page 105) or Beaverbrook (page 98). They will be tomorrow’s stalwarts, but in the meantime they are exciting, edgy, even disruptive additions to the ever-evolving hotel scene.

Once again, the evocative images that represent the regions of the British Isles are the work of the talented winners of the Landscape Photography of the Year Awards. This year’s front cover was shot at Chewton Glen (page 79), a hotel that sums up all that is best in luxury British hospitality and set between the New Forest and the sea, the part of the world in which I live. Inside, you’ll find descriptions of over 250 hotels, each one handpicked. We also include, as ever, a useful selection of gorgeous private houses to rent, perfect for friends or family.

But there’s more. This year, the guide is packed with extra features. Some are practical, such as recipes and seasonal ideas for outings in each region, plus Henrietta Green’s interviews with local suppliers, from chocolatiers to seaweed producers. Others are inspirational, such as Emma Love’s fascinating feature on hotel design, Anastasia Bernhardt’s on the importance of the farm to fork tradition and Fergus Beeley’s on the wonderful nature weekends he conducts at some of the country’s best-placed hotels.

So here it is: the fifth Great British & Irish Hotels guide, full of ideas for indulgent, genuine and relaxing places to stay, all bundled up in a guide that, I hope you will agree, is nothing but a pleasure to peruse.

123

26 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The Blakeney Hotel; Fortnum & Mason’s rose summer pud; The Goring; The Rectory at Crudwell; the success story of British fizz

68

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

Contents 209 96

172

Features 14 19 26 29 32

34

THE HUMAN TOUCH Fiona Duncan on the people at the heart of our greatest hotels SLEEPING BEAUTIES How to get the look of your favourite hotel at home RAISING THE BAR Why we should be popping the corks of British fizz HOW DOES YOUR GARDEN GROW? Hotels with the most gorgeous of gardens FIVE-STAR SUSTAINABILITY Anastasia Bernhardt on the places putting provenance at the top of the menu NATURE IN OUR BACKYARD Documentary producer Fergus Beeley on listening and looking for British wildlife

Directory 36 54

DEVON, CORNWALL & THE ISLES OF SCILLY

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Artist Residence Brighton; Killiecrankie Hotel; David Webb's ‘Enchanting Skies over Bamburgh Castle’; farm to fork; Llangoed Hall

32

THE WEST COUNTRY Dorset / Somerset / Wiltshire

74

HAMPSHIRE & THE ISLE OF WIGHT

90

THE HOME COUNTIES

112

LONDON

134

THE COTSWOLDS

Berkshire / Buckinghamshire / Kent / Sussex

ON THE COVER Clara Paget @ Next Models wearing Temperley London dress and Jimmy Choo boots Photographer: Christine Kreiselmaier Fashion Editor: Nicole Smallwood @ Adrenalin Management Hair and make-up: Camilla Hewitt @ Frank using Tom Ford beauty and Bumble and Bumble Photographer's assistant: Daniel Hack

Gloucestershire / Oxfordshire / Warwickshire / Wiltshire

148 MID COUNTRY Derbyshire / Lincolnshire / Nottinghamshire Rutland / Warwickshire / West Midlands

158

EAST ANGLIA Cambridgeshire / Essex / Norfolk / Suffolk

172

THE NORTH

LOCATION With thanks to Chewton Glen, Hampshire (chewtonglen.com)

200

County Durham / Cheshire / Cumbria / Lancashire / Northumberland / Yorkshire

190 WALES & THE MARCHES 202 SCOTLAND 214

IRELAND

226 PRIVATE HOUSES 232 INDEX

LANDSCAPE PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR The landscape photography in this guide is from the Take a View: Landscape Photographer of the Year Awards; the annual competition that showcases images of Britain’s most beautiful locations by some of today’s best landscape photographers. The Awards are held in association with VisitBritain and the GREAT Britain #OMGB campaign. Winners will be announced at the end of October and the Awards book, Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 10 (AA Publishing) is available from 24 October 2016. An exhibition of the best entries will be held in London at the end of the year. take-a-view.co.uk

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COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS

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EDITOR/WRITER Fiona Duncan EDITOR IN CHIEF Lucy Cleland FOOD WRITER Henrietta Green CONTRIBUTING FASHION EDITOR Nicole Smallwood CONTRIBUTORS Fergus Beeley, Anastasia Bernhardt,

Wigmore Street W1 · Harrods SW1 · Chelsea Harbour SW10

Harriet Hirschler, Alice Lascelles, Emma Love LUXURY SALES DIRECTOR Maya Monro-Somerville PROPERTY MARKETING MANAGER Gemma Cowley RETAIL EDITOR Rosalyn Wikeley SALES EXECUTIVE Olivia Milligan CREATIVE DIRECTION & PRODUCTION Parm Bhamra PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Chloe Smith DIGITAL CONSULTANT Lucy Kirkness ONLINE EDITOR Rebecca Cox DIGITAL ASSISTANT Hollie Bell IT MANAGER Mark Pearson CREDIT CONTROLLER Penny Burles OPERATIONS & ACCOUNTS MANAGER Millie Mountain ACCOUNTS CONTROLLER Jane Todd

From £7,500 to £125,000

FINANCE DIRECTOR Jill Newey PUBLISHER Julia Carrick MANAGING DIRECTOR Jeremy Isaac

GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS 2017/18 is an annual supplement distributed with Country & Town House magazine to AB homes in Barnes, Battersea, Bayswater, Belgravia, Brook Green, Chelsea, Chiswick, Clapham, Coombe, Fulham, Holland Park, Kensington, Knightsbridge, Marylebone, Mayfair, Notting Hill, Pimlico, South Kensington, Wandsworth and Wimbledon, as well as being available from leading country and London estate agents. It is also on sale at selected WHSmith, Waitrose and Sainsbury’s stores and independent newsagents nationwide. GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS will also have an exclusive international distribution through British Airways, American Airlines, Cathay Pacific, Singapore, and Emirates into First Class and Private Jet lounges throughout the US, Europe, Middle East and Far East. It has an estimated readership of 200,000. Country & Town House is available on subscription in the UK for £29.99 per annum. To subscribe online, iPad, iPhone and android all for only £24.99 visit: exacteditions.com/read/countrytownhouse. For subscription enquiries, please call 020 7384 9011 or email subscribe@countryandtownhouse.co.uk. It is published by Country & Town House Ltd, Studio 2, Chelsea Gate Studios, 115 Harwood Road, London SW6 4QL (tel: 020 7384 9011).

Registered number 576850 England and Wales. Printed in the UK by William Gibbons and Sons Ltd, West Midlands. Paper supplied by Gerald Judd. Distribution by Letterbox.

Copyright © 2017 Country & Town House Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Materials are accepted on the understanding that no liability is incurred for safe custody. The publisher cannot be responsible for unsolicited material. All prices are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change. Whilst every care is taken to ensure all information is correct at the time of going to press, it is subject to change, and Country & Town House Ltd. takes no responsibility for omissions or errors.

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The Human Touch Michelin stars, high thread counts and 24-hour room service are all very well but it’s the characters behind a good hotel that really makes it great.

Fiona Duncan profiles some of the most worthy

ABOVE & LEFT: The Gurnard’s Head in Cornwall

make a great team and both learned about hospitality and good food from their parents while growing up in Wales.

Charlie Luxton and Dan Brod were friends before they became business partners and launched first The Beckford Arms in Wiltshire and then The Talbot Inn in Somerset, both highly acclaimed and both stylish, genuine and affordable. They are on the look out for a third inn, but it has got to be right; in the meantime they launched the Beckford Bottle Shop in Tisbury to keep themselves busy.

Humour is key to their approach. ‘Let’s face it,’ says Dan, ‘in hospitality, however professional, things are bound to go wrong at times and it’s really only humour that can paper over the

Brothers Edmund and Charles Inkin – different though they may be – make the perfect pair

THE REFINED COUNTRY PUBLICAN

ABOVE & BELOW: The Old Coastguard

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK

Among the owners of dozens of inns across the country that have been restored and revived to suit the millennium, two pairs stand out. Neither take themselves too seriously, but both are passionate about their desire to provide places to eat, drink and sleep that are authentic and never pretentious or false – the fate of too many of our recently ponced-up pubs.

Eat, Drink, Sleep is precisely the name of Edmund and Charles Inkin’s group of three delightfully down to earth hostelries, each with exceptionally good food: The Felin Fach Griffin in Wales and The Gurnard’s Head and The Old Coastguard, both in Cornwall. Edmund – ex-City – oversees The Griffin and the business side of the group, while Cornwall-based Charles, a shoe-in, with his rakish looks, for the dastardly but dashing squire in a Barbara Cartland romance, can often be found pulling pints at The Gurnard’s Head and The Old Coastguard. His favourite dish is a dozen oysters and a Bloody Mary; Edmund’s is côte de boeuf for two and a glass of northern Rhône red. They are different but they

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Lila Arora is just 22 and now at the helm of Langar Hall The Beckford Arms

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK

cracks. And an amusing encounter with a waiter is much more telling than the speed with which the plates were Dan Brod and Charlie Luxton like to cleared off the inject some humour into proceedings table.’ Charlie dispenses his irreverent wit from behind the bar at The Beckford, while Dan pens their laugh-out-loud newsletters. One announced that they were introducing new technology to improve hospitality, with drone table service and a fully robotic barperson (gender neutral of course), embedded with 52 regional accents to make customers feel at home.

Another, informing customers that an exact replica of The Beckford Arms was to be constructed in rural China, elicited a call from the BBC asking if they could discuss a documentary.

The two men spar constantly, ‘Dan will not let me write the newsletters,’ Charlie wrote to me. ‘I have a BA, am older – read wiser – and have better jokes. He wants all the glory. Typical self-absorbed London intellect. Regards, Bitter, Wiltshire.’

THE COUNTRY HOUSE WHIZZ KID

When Anglo-Indian Lila Arora was eight years old, she told her beloved granny, owner of the delightful, idiosyncratic restaurant with 12 rooms Langar Hall, ‘I want to run it when you are old and rule it myself when you are dead.’ Fine by granny, the marvellous Imogen Skirving, who had turned her Georgian, apricot-washed family home into a hotel in the 1980s. They shared the same Leo star sign and were equally single-minded and determined. ‘She should be just the ticket,’ said Imogen.

And indeed Lila is. Imogen was tragically killed, aged 78, in June 2016 in a road accident in Menorca. Lila, now just 22, is the new, dynamic, enchanting châtelaine of Langar Hall, which stands next to a honey-coloured church in the Vale of Belvoir. A delicately beautiful pocket rocket, her first action was to put up a huge, compelling photograph of Imogen in the pillared hall; otherwise nothing has changed and aficionados will find the same charming interiors, the same relaxed party atmosphere and the same key staff, including Michael the maître d’hôtel and Gary and Ross, the superb chefs. Lila knows very little of other hotels, but it doesn’t matter a jot: she knows her beloved Langar Hall inside out, what makes it tick and how to keep it flourishing. It’s so rare to find any hotel passed on to the next generation these days, but to find someone like Lila, so young and determined, with her whole life ahead of her, is thrilling.

Delightful Langar Hall

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS The Goring

THE GRAND LONDON GENERAL MANAGER London’s grande dame hotels have had a roll call of characterful general managers. Rudolph Richard ran The Connaught like a private country house, while Hugh Wontner, Giles Shepherd, Willy Bauer and Anthony Lee have all put indelible stamps on The Savoy, Grosvenor House, Hyde Park and The Connaught respectively, and there are others whose names live on. But if today’s impeccably turned out lords of their marble lobbies tend to be more concerned with career paths than the hotel in hand, there is one larger than life exception: David Morgan-Hewitt, who has presided over The Goring hotel for the past quarter of a century.

The forcible ejection of a drunken interloper from The Goring while the Queen was hosting a staff Christmas lunch last December was a mere warm-up act for the sight that greeted onlookers later on, when Morgan-Hewitt escorted Her Majesty down its marble front steps and waved her off in her Bentley.

As much of an institution as the hotel itself, he became – thanks to his impressive proportions, beautifully tailored suit, trademark blue gingham shirt, silk pocket handkerchief and evident flamboyance – front page news, even stealing the limelight from his illustrious guest, who looked tiny beside him.

Those who know The Goring well were not surprised either by the arresting individuality of its managing director nor by its royal patronage. Indeed, eccentricity and humour mixed with Britishness, tradition and a love of the monarchy are the most distinct characteristics of the hotel, privately owned by the Goring family since 1910. There are many royal associations, not least the recent addition of a team of red-liveried footmen. ‘Everyone has butlers,’ says David Morgan-Hewitt, ‘but people with real style have footmen.’

And style is what Morgan-Hewitt brings to London’s most characterful five-star address: that, plus a very British sense of fun and a fine singing voice (he was a choral scholar), which he is apt to demonstrate anywhere, at the slightest opportunity. No wonder that the Queen, known for her sense of humour, is drawn to the hotel and to its flamboyant, clever, funny, slightly anarchic and splendidly singular general manager.

David Morgan-Hewitt has been with The Goring for around 25 years

THE OLD TIMER Some things never change; not many to be sure, but you really do feel that Jacqui Baldry and her beloved Jacqui Baldry has kept the fires burning at Howtown Hotel, Howtown Hotel for 57 years a delightful time warp set back from the shores of Ullswater with breathtaking views, will simply go on forever. After all, Howtown began taking guests as a ‘licensed farmhouse’ 117 years ago and Jacqui has been at the helm for the past 57, alongside her son David. It would be impolite to ask her age, but whatever it is, her continued dedication is remarkable. Impervious to the vagaries of fashion, her standards are nevertheless so high and her house, filled with pictures and flowers and gleaming with polished wood and silver cutlery, is so adorable that staying here feels like the greatest luxury and we can only pray that the gong, which rings at 7pm for Colin Akrigg’s famous cheese soufflés and other treats in the duck egg blue dining room, will never Howtown Hotel ever fall silent. n

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

Sleeping Beauties Getting hotel design right is crucial – which is why the biggest names in interiors go to extraordinary lengths to be original. Emma Love looks at how this approach has shaped some of our favourite hotels in the UK

A bedroom at The Hospital Club

‘Y

ears ago, I remember being in a well-known London hotel, picking up an object from a table and seeing that it had John Lewis written underneath,’ recalls interior designer Russell Sage, whose landmark projects include The Goring hotel, the bedrooms at The Hospital Club and the Zetter Townhouse, ‘but the myth of a hotel should be about creating something that people can aspire to, without quite knowing how to achieve it. That’s why clients come to us – because they want something different.’

For Sage, who employs a team of 40, that means using bespoke lighting, carpets and fabrics (he is creative director of the Gainsborough Silk Weaving Company), mixing his own paints and – this is a real trademark – going to great lengths to source original antiques which are then often altered in some way to make them totally

The Zetter Townhouse Marylebone

The Goring

unique. ‘I’m currently buying £6m worth of antiques for different jobs, which are then mixed with contemporary pieces,’ he says of his current projects, which include a new Zetter Townhouse in Manchester and working with art dealers Iwan and Manuela Wirth Russell Sage has sprinkled his design on restoring a historic hotel in Scotland. magic over hotels such as The Goring ‘I have three people procuring the most extraordinary stuff and I get to look through photographs picking out the best. The buying of antiques has always been something very personal to me and it matters a great deal about every single piece that goes into a hotel.’ His team are ‘banned from looking at Pinterest’ because he can’t bear to repeat anything that has been seen before and, he says, how a hotel functions is key. ‘Take the Zetter Townhouse as an example. It looks like it shouldn’t function properly because you can’t see the usual reception desk but it’s completely set up to look after guests as soon as they walk in the door.’

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Martin Hulbert has worked on some of the UK’s most famous country hotels

Another company renowned for its originality is Martin Hulbert Designs, whose list of past project reads like a Who’s Who of gorgeous English country-house hotels: The Grove, Coworth Park, Cliveden, the treehouse suites at Chewton Glen and Barnsley House.

‘Clients don’t employ us to shop from the high The dining room at Cliveden street,’ says Hulbert. ‘We are very creative; we design and make many of the objects that go Soho Farmhouse into our interiors so they are individual.’

No.15 Great Pulteney, a 22-room hotel which opened in Bath at the end of 2016, is the latest example of his approach. It has a soft, powdery palette inspired by the building itself and one-off pieces such as a chandelier in the entrance hall made from thousands of lost earrings. ‘The previous occupants had covered up most of the Georgian interior so we stripped it back to reveal all this wonderful plasterwork. We’ve kept the walls more or less as we found them, so the soul of the building is still intact. For me, it was a possibility to shake things up and create something different with a client who has an open mind.’ Hotel design hasn’t always been so unfettered by rules though. ‘When I started 25 years ago clients would say I want the Ralph Lauren look or a traditional Victorian scheme. Now, interior design is more free and The Grove was a milestone for that. Until then Kit Kemp is known for her bold most country-house hotels were very stuffy and traditional colours and use of pattern and print but with The Grove we challenged the design norm.’

PHOTOS: JAMES MCDONALD

The Lovage Living Room at The Grove of Narberth

In contrast to one-off hotel projects, for Linda Boronkay, design director for UK and Europe at Soho House, it’s important to retain aesthetic consistencies between properties. ‘We start with the geographical location and the building and the design evolves from that but we always try to create a home from home by using a mix of reclaimed materials, bespoke furniture and vintage finds.’ At Soho Farmhouse in the Cotswolds, for instance, that translates to layering textures such as linens, raffia, rattan and mohair. ‘Lighting is important too: we love a lot of low level lighting,’ she continues.

‘And if we’re using a Chesterfield sofa, we’ll reupholster it with an interesting fabric pattern to combine styles and keep it fresh.’

Just as a Soho House hotel has an instantly recognisable look, so Firmdale Hotels such as Ham Yard and Charlotte Street Hotel have been given their own stamp by design director Kit Kemp (think plenty of colour and carefree pattern), who might work with Wedgwood on a dinner service one day and pair Provençalinspired fabrics by Christian Lacroix or Pierre Frey denim walls the next. ‘I love design of all kinds and all periods. It doesn’t matter to me if it is Swedish 17th-century, English Georgian or French Empire; what does matter is whether there’s a connection that runs through the work,’ explains Kemp in her book on the subject, Every Room Tells a Story.

Then there’s Georgie Pearman who, together with her husband Sam, is behind the Cotswold-based Lucky Onion restaurant and hotel group, and finds herself constantly returning to familiar, favourite colour palettes to achieve a homely feel.

‘I am drawn to earthy, country colours,’ says Pearman, who is in the process of adding 18 bedrooms to The Wild Duck, a 16th-century coaching inn in Newham. ‘I’m not a fan of overly designed spaces and because we’ve always gone for quirky old buildings, we’ve had

The Drawing Room at Ham Yard Hotel

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

The Tamburlaine in Cambridge

Dining at The Lucky Onion’s No. 131 in Cheltenham

to be pretty flexible with all the nooks and crannies.

I’m quite relaxed about putting a sink or a bath in the bedroom, for example.’

Newer names to watch on the hotel design scene include duo Maria Constantinou and Eris Koutsoudakis of Meraki Design, who are behind the interiors at Lympstone Manor in Devon, the first hotel from chef Michael Caines; Bryan O’ Sullivan Studio, a collaborative of architects and designers set up four

Soho Home vintage wooden stacking chairs, £75. sohohome.com

Eris Koutsoudakis and Maria Constantinou are names to watch

years ago whose first hotel project was the front of house spaces for the just-opened Tamburlaine in Cambridge and design agency 93 who are in charge of the interiors at The Pilgrm, a new hotel, café and lounge bar opening in Paddington this summer.

What unites these hotels is that each one has its own story, whether that’s an interior inspired by views of the Exe estuary at Grade II-listed Lympstone Manor; the eponymous play by Christopher Marlowe that was the starting point for the look of The Tamburlaine; or the craftsmanship that has gone into The Pilgrm. Ultimately, it’s the job of an interior designer to tell a tale through carefully considered, original design.

GET THE LOOK

Three interior designers reveal the secrets behind their style Newgate Knightsbridge wall clock, £60. johnlewis.com

Soho Home Tilney dining table, £725. sohohome.com

PHOTOS: JAMES MCDONALD

Octagonal Imari vase, £997; empire cream silk lampshade, £354. vaughandesigns.com

Soho Home James armchair, £1,495. sohohome.com

LINDA BORONKAY

Arlo & Jacob Darcy Snuggler sofa, £1,425. arloandjacob.com

THE MAIN BARN AT SOHO FARMHOUSE The chairs and tables are all antique, and mostly sourced locally from places such as Lorfords Antiques in Tetbury. The bespoke sofas are upholstered with vintage kilim rugs. All the antique rugs were picked up at Karsa Rugs in Kentish Town. The space is big so we tried to make it cosy by using a warm palette: we chose Farrow & Ball’s Hague Blue for the bar to create something punchy. In keeping with the industrial, rustic aspect of the barn, reclaimed cobbled stones (sourced locally) were used on the floor.

Feather & Black velvet cushion, £30. featherandblack.com

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Innermost Lighthouse shade with tripod base floor lamp, £345. heals.com

Lindsey Adelman cherry bomb radial chandelier, POA. nilufar.com

KIT KEMP THE LIBRARY AT HAM YARD The library has a traditional feel with my Ozone fabric on the walls, a Tabriz carpet with 17th-century Persian characteristics, a curated library

by Philip Blackwell and a hand-block printed Mrs Monro fabric on the sofa and armchairs.

Oka Ashurst sofa side table, £235. oka.com

Mangal copper jug, £54.95. selfridges.com

Sofa workshop Miss Firefly sofa, from £1,540. sofaworkshop.com

Abthorpe brass light, £205. christopherwray.com

MERAKI DESIGN

Button & Sprung Camelia double bed, £1,045. buttonandsprung.com

KINGFISHER BEDROOM AT LYMPSTONE MANOR This room is named after the kingfisher, which in turn inspired the colour scheme. All the furniture, from the buttoned blue velvet headboard to the sofas, has been designed by Meraki Design and manufactured by 2install Furniture in Glasgow. The bath is from Hurlingham.

There is original artwork by Devon-based artist Rachel Toll either side of the fireplace, and to the right of the bed we have created a collage of prints with Surface View. n

Jan Kath hand knotted Ferrara Cloud Tibetan wool rug, £19,850. frontrugs.com

Saarinen dining table, £3,683. conranshop.co.uk

PHOTOS: LINDSEY ADELMAN © LAUREN COLEMAN

Swoon Editions Isabelle marble bedside table, £169. swooneditions.com

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Raising the Bar No longer is a decent bottle of fizz necessarily French. Alice Lascelles charts the rise of the British bubbles that are turning our tastebuds and the hotels at which to drink them

‘Y

ABOVE: Gathering grapes at Gusbourne BELOW: Wiston has 16 acres of vineyards

ou must try this, it’s made by a lovely little winery just down the road!’

For the greater part of my drinks writing career I have dreaded hearing these words, which invariably preceded the sound of a cork popping on some acidic gargle from the British Isles.

Lately, though, they’ve made me prick up my ears – because English sparkling The award-winning wine has come a long way in the last Gusbourne Blanc de Blancs few years. Thanks to a combination of global warming, heavy investment and clever planting of the big three grape varieties – pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier – wineries across southern England are now producing fizz to rival serious champagnes.

‘I think people are really starting to get to know their vineyards and the good sites are now really standing out,’ says Charlie Holland, winemaker at the awardwinning winery Gusbourne in Kent. Situated in a lush spot about 40 miles from the coast, Gusbourne specialises in vintage sparkling wines with an elegant, slightly saline character that makes for a wonderful apéritif. A fine example is its flagship Blanc de Blancs, which won them the trophy for Best English Wine at the Decanter World Wine Awards in 2016 – crisp and apply, with a touch of

Wiston House in Sussex

Langham’s Rosé 2013 is tart and fruity

nuttiness, this is just the ticket for drinking with oysters or a hunk of bread spread with a mild and creamy goat’s cheese.

The big challenge for winemakers in the British Isles is keeping that acidity under control Wiston Blanc de Blancs NV is – in our cool climes, there’s always walking the line exceptionally pure between making wines that are uniquely structured, zesty and vivid, and plonk that’s just plain unripe and sour.

‘It’s a style that’s on its toes,’ agrees Dermot Sugrue, winemaker at Wiston in Sussex, another winery now making extremely classy fizz. Planted by the Goring family in 2006, this 16-acre vineyard on the slopes of the South Downs boasts the same chalky soil as Champagne – something that Sugrue believes is key to the exceptional purity of Wiston’s Blanc de Blancs NV. ‘It helps to preserve that delicacy of fruit, those high-toned Chardonnay flavours,’ says the voluble Irishman, who also played a big part in establishing Nyetimber as one of England’s leading wine makers.

Sugrue is not afraid to use a bit of oak when it comes to ageing his wines though, resulting in vintage fizz with a more full-bodied, buttery character reminiscent of more mature champagne – this really comes through in Wiston’s Blanc de Blancs 2010.

English wineries also seem to have a knack for making good rosé. Two favourites of mine are the pared-back rosé by Gusbourne and the rhubarb-pink Langham Rose 2013, a fizz from Dorset as tart and fruity as a summer pudding. For something more substantial try the richly textured Classic Cuvée Rosé from the

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

ON THE GRAPEVINE HOTELS FOR LOVERS OF ENGLISH FIZZ

THE PIG Brockenhurst, Hampshire

Nyetimber’s Tillington Single Vineyard 2010 will set you back £78

New Forest idyll serving fruit and veg from a glorious kitchen garden and fizz by local wineries Hambledon and Cottonworth. thepighotel.com

ABOVE: Chapel Down’s vineyard on the North Downs BELOW: Hambledon’s prized Hampshire vines

Hampshire winery Hambledon (a winery which also caused a stir last year when its Première Cuvée Brut trounced several top champagnes in an industry blind tasting).

Up until recently, you’d be hard-pushed to find an English sparkling wine that cost much more than £40. But lately both Nyetimber and Kent’s Chapel Down have upped the ante by launching sparkling wines priced on a par with prestige cuvée champagnes.

And the French have been In Chapel Down’s case, that wine is Kit’s Coty eyeing up our terroir, too.

Coeur de Cuvée 2013, a single-vineyard, 100 In late 2017 Champagne per cent chardonnay sparkling wine priced Hambledon’s Pommery will launch its just shy of £100. Limited to a run Première Cuvée Brut first English sparkling wine of just 1,600 bottles, it’s part of a trio surpassed better-known produced in partnership of new wines which were all made with brands in a blind tasting with Hampshire’s Hattingley fruit from Kit’s Coty, Chapel Down’s most Valley, a pinot-driven cuvée prized vineyard on the North Downs. by the name of Louis Nyetimber’s answer to this is their Pommery. 2017 is also the site-specific Tillington Single Vineyard year Champagne Taittinger 2010, a pinot-driven, single vineyard begins planting vineyards in sparkling wine with meadow-like Kent, with a view to launching notes of clover and citrus – this will a sparkling wine under the name Domaine set you back about £78.

Evremond in about eight years’ time.

Long the butt of jokes, English And visiting these often picturesque sparkling wine now looks in serious wineries has never been easier. Chapel danger of acquiring some gravitas.

Down, Wiston and Gusbourne have all It’s served at 10 Downing Street, Chapel Down Kit’s unveiled plush new tasting rooms and in British Airways First Class and Coty sets you back visitor packages ranging from twoby Michelin-starred restaurants nearly £100 hour tours for £15 a head through up and down the country. to bespoke experiences combining At Simon Rogan’s L’Enclume behind-the-scenes winery visits with in Cartmel, they now list vineyard picnics and private wine 11 English sparkling wines dinners by top chefs. including Gusbourne, Nyetimber You may want to visit one of these, and Sussex’s Ridgeview. As of but then again, you may know a lovely this spring, they will also pour little winery just down the road. the sparkling wines of Welsh In which case, lucky you. n winery Ancre Hill Estates.

SPREAD EAGLE Midhurst, Sussex Charming English coaching inn serves sparkling wine from Wiston and a gin bar with more than 70 gins. hshotels.co.uk/spread-eagle

THE MILK HOUSE Sissinghurst, Kent Near the gardens of Sissinghurst, this village pub prides itself on serving the wines of Kent’s nearby Chapel Down. themilkhouse.co.uk

CLARIDGE’S London Fera’s homegrown wines include Davenport and Welsh winery, Ancre Hill Estates. claridges.co.uk

THE GALLIVANT Camber, East Sussex This tiny hotel on the dunes of Camber Sands has one of the best English wine lists in the country – choose from more than 20 types. thegallivant.co.uk

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

GRAVETYE MANOR, West Sussex

How Does Your Garden Grow?

Some of our hotels not only offer us exquisite interiors but also the most gorgeous gardens. Fiona Duncan finds her favourites

William Robinson, pioneer of natural planting, created the ground-breaking and surpassingly beautiful gardens at Gravetye Manor in the late-19th century. In recent years, they have been comprehensively restored and, thanks to head gardener Tom Coward and his team, are glorious once more.

Most recently the Victorian peach house has been replanted, while the magnificent walled kitchen garden is a model of its kind. The hotel is a haven of traditional comfort, good food and good taste, but it’s outside that you will most want to be. gravetyemanor.co.uk

I

t’s a funny thing, but when hotels boast their facilities – spa, gym, indoor pool and so on – they rarely trumpet their immaculately kept, flower-filled grounds, however beautiful, however special. But what better way to relax and unwind than in a British garden at its magnificent best? As they say at Hotel Endsleigh, with its Humphry Repton-designed borders and arboretum: ‘no, we don’t have a spa; a cup of tea in the garden is our spa’.

From wildflowers (above) to manicured lawns, Gravetye also boasts a divine walled kitchen garden

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HOWARD’S HOUSE, Wiltshire

ASKHAM HALL, Cumbria

What better than to hunker down in a charming house, surrounded by the prettiest of gardens set in the heart of an idyllic but littleknown village far from main roads? Sitting on the lovely wide terrace at Howard’s House, in a garden protected by an undulating topiary hedge and containing a magnificent ornamental crab apple among other trees, the only sounds you are likely to hear are of birdsong and the knock of croquet mallet on ball. Here is the gentle English country garden at its finest. howardshousehotel.co.uk

The Grade II-listed gardens that surround Askham Hall, previously the home of the Countess of Lowther, are so special that they are open to the public, with a Kitchen Garden Café for visitors. There are colourful terraces, rare species, a 230ft-long double herbaceous border, formal lawns, woodland, meadows and ponds. There are also edible plants and kitchen gardens for the chefs at Askham Hall and its sister hotel the George and Dragon at Clifton, and animal trails to see shorthorn cattle, rare breed pigs and boer goats. askhamhall.co.uk

BELMOND LE MANOIR AUX QUAT’SAISONS, Oxfordshire

BARNSLEY HOUSE, Gloucestershire

It’s not just a hotel and restaurant: it’s another country, a land of magnificent inter-connecting gardens, ponds and sculptures: the accomplished, munificent realm of one fervent Frenchman, Raymond Blanc. There’s so much to see: vegetable garden; herb garden; mushroom valley; Japanese tea garden; orchard (over 800 apple and pear trees alone); English water garden. Only Le Manoir’s food will lure you back inside. belmond.com/le-manoir-aux-quat-saisons-oxfordshire

Until 2003, when it became a hotel, Barnsley House was the home of renowned horticulturist Rosemary Verey. Nowadays, instead of paying to visit her celebrated four-acre garden for an hour or two, you can stay in her former home, now chic and luxurious, and enjoy at leisure the richly complex yet natural and abundant garden that she created during her lifetime. There are knot gardens, ornamental fruits and vegetables and much more, all melting into the surrounding Cotswold landscape. barnsleyhouse.com

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

BODYSGALLEN HALL, Conwy

MILLGATE HOUSE, North Yorkshire

Snowdonia is the stunning backdrop to 200 acres of award-winning gardens and parkland, featuring follies, a walled garden, lily-pad ponds and a rare 17th-century parterre of box hedges filled with colourful sweet herbs. Guests can follow a trail with their own map and discover prize specimen trees, including a marvellous Stone Pine and a Commemorative English Oak. The extensive kitchen garden is in constant use by the hotel’s chefs and you can survey all from the top of the medieval lookout tower. bodysgallen.com

‘Guests,’ say Tim Culkin and Austin Lynch, proprietors of this exceptional guesthouse ‘are like cushions. They arrive a bit pummeled but we try to send them off plumped up again.’ They also leave delighted by the beauty of the small but sensational garden, featured on Alan Tichmarsh’s Britain’s Best Gardens. In spring, many species of hellebore, snowdrop, aconite, crocus and narcissus carpet the ground. In summer, it’s awash with harmonious colour, including several varieties of rose. millgatehouse.com

CONGHAM HALL, Norfolk

KILLIECRANKIE, Perthshire

Anyone interested in culinary plants should make a beeline for Congham Hall, where the hotel’s renowned Herb Garden contains a collection of almost 400 varieties, including rare medicinal ones and many that can be used in cooking, including by the hotel’s chefs. Stroll around the Herb Garden (open to the public during the day) at dusk, when heady aromas scent the air.

It’s also part of a trail of the Magnificent Seven local gardens. conghamhallhotel.co.uk

Overlooking Soldier’s Leap in the stunning Pass of Killiecrankie, this charming hotel has a relaxing and delightful garden that matches the setting. In five acres of wooded grounds, the pretty, whitewashed 1840s house is surrounded by lawns, with a showpiece herbaceous border and a rose garden to the west of the house. ‘Please shut the gate to keep out the rabbits,’ reads a sign at the entrance to the old-fashioned, abundant kitchen garden. killiecrankiehotel.co.uk n

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Five-star Sustainability Hotels can’t get away with paying provenance mere lip service. Rare breed farms and extensive kitchen gardens are all part of the facilities these days, says Anastasia Bernhardt Chickens rule the roost at Coombeshead Farm

W

hat does a chef with a Michelinstarred New York restaurant have to do with pig farming in deepest darkest Cornwall? Any foodie worth their salt will tell you that the chef in question is April Bloomfield and the farm is Coombeshead Farm near Launceston, a working farm-cumdining destination with rooms she opened with Tom Adams of Pitt Cue Co, and one of the most eagerly anticipated openings of last year.

And with good reason: the 66-acre farm presents one of the most all-encompassing weekend-away experiences: the chance to reconnect with where our food comes from in the most literal sense.

Bedrooms are inclusive of breakfast and dinner, which is a communal celebration of whatever is being grown at that time, which, in turn, makes the team work in a more creative way by necessity. ‘You don’t have the luxury of food at your fingertips,’ says Tom Adams. ‘You have to preserve, cure, smoke and pickle to create a menu that isn’t feast or famine throughout the year.’

For places such as Coombeshead provenance is everything.

And these days restaurants can’t get away with just paying lip service to it – especially not in hotels, which live or die by their ability to create a distinct sense of place. Whether or not you’re seduced by the apparent eco credentials of sourcing produce from nearby, you can’t fail to be charmed by the stories.

Take Tommy Banks for instance, who turned around his family’s restaurant with rooms, The Black Swan in Oldstead,

North Yorkshire, by placing emphasis on their own-grown produce, as suggested by legendary vegetable grower Ken Holland.

Not that it was without difficulties: ‘We had a few acres out the back of the pub but we hit bedrock straight away,’ says Banks. ‘It turned out it used to be quarry, which was not ideal growing conditions. My dad had to bring in 650 tonnes of soil. Now it looks like a vineyard with steps. It’s magical.’

What makes the hard work so rewarding is that it helped him to develop his own style, Tom Adams and April Bloomfield

Coombeshead Farm

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

Raising rare breed pigs at The Pointer at Brill

whereby the ingredients dictate the dishes. His most famous dish is beetroot cooked in beef fat. ‘We use crapaudine beetroot – it means toad in French.

It’s an ugly vegetable, but it’s really good for storing through winter. We cut them into steaks and cook them really slowly in beef fat, so they end up really sweet and smoky.’

The ethos translates just as well at grand hotels too. Raymond Blanc allegedly planned his vegetable garden at Le Manoir before he’d sorted out the electricity; The Torridon on the north-west coast of Scotland breeds Highland cattle and Tamworth pigs (which, to guests’ delight, roam the land freely between May and October) to supply its 1887 restaurant.

‘It is very important to bring the animal into the kitchen as a whole beast,’ says The Torridon’s head chef David Barnett. ‘Not only David Barnett and his team does the nose-to-tail approach at The Torridon reduce waste but I can teach the junior chefs the skills of butchery, an art form that is being lost.’

There has also been a shift towards preserving rare breed animals. ‘We want to avoid mono farming,’ says Tom Adams. ‘Rare breeds have inherent qualities and idiosyncrasies that need to be preserved, for example the ability to produce fat has not been bred out of them in favour of yield, like it has in commercial breeds. We need to incentivise farmers to continue this and we can only do that by using more in the kitchen.’

David and Fiona Howden began breeding English longhorn cattle and rare breed pigs, which soon expanded into a thriving restaurant, butcher and – recently – a hotel business, The Pointer at Brill, which is now at the centre of the local community.

They supply meals to the local schools and take schoolchildren on tours of the farm to help them

reconnect with the source of their food.

This re-education of guests is at the heart of food destinations such as Caryn Hibbert’s Thyme in the Cotswolds, whose cookery school instructs on seasonal, produce-led cooking. Sustainability extends from the kitchens through to the restored manor where guests stay, which has been kitted out with eco-tech, from ground source heat pumps to wood chip boilers.

While it appears rather bucolic on the surface, sticking to your guns is not without its problems. Earlier this year, a late frost destroyed a week’s worth of produce for Coombeshead’s asparagus producers. ‘In other circumstances, we could order from elsewhere but that’s not an option for us,’ says Adams.

‘We are invested in the people we work with and can only create a sustainable food system by sticking by them.’

‘The real strain shows when a crop fails that you had planned to sustain a dish on the menu for six weeks,’ says Banks.

‘It’s a nightmare because you have to buy in ingredients, so you’re making no money, plus you invested time and resources into that crop in the first place. Some things would be cheaper to buy in, but people come here because they buy into the ethos. You can’t put a price on that.’

Of course, eating from fi eld to table is not new, Tommy Banks having gained ground in America in the ’60s and ’70s in reaction to the increasingly aggressive nature of farming. The UK’s best and most established hotels, such as Gleneagles, Ballyvolane and Ballyfin for instance, have put sourcing at the top of the agenda for decades. What is notable now though is that customers have come to expect responsible sourcing as standard, not as an added luxury.

And those hotels that harness it most effectively are working in increasingly and excitingly creative ways to add an extra layer to the experience. n

Chicken, hen of the woods and lovage at the Black Swan

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24/05/2017 11:17

Nature in our Backyard Sometimes it takes an expert to point out what is right in front of your eyes, which is why documentary maker Fergus Beeley is heading up some wonderful nature weekends at some of the country’s best-placed hotels

FROM TOP RIGHT: Bailiffscourt in West Sussex is one of the hotels where Fergus hosts his wildlife weekends; Fergus Beeley; Hotel Endsleigh is a fantastic location for spotting British wildlife

grabs it by the neck and continues the big drag. I so admire these brave little predators.

I stop bothering it and let it take its kill into cover where it must be feeding kits.

I’ve been very fortunate with the wildlife I’ve seen in my life while producing films, travelling all over the world to the most remarkable places and witnessing dramatic encounters. But the wonderful thing is that these incredible encounters can be met at home, too.

I can revel in the intricate markings of the grey partridge or the splendor of an emperor dragonfly. I can listen to the deep croak of a high-flying raven or to the heart-stirring song of a thrush.

Even in our gardens and parks we can see interesting wildlife if we look carefully – 13,000 other species share the city of London alone. I’ve seen peregrine falcons hunting over Hyde Park, suddenly stooping down vertically, accelerating faster than free fall, and intercepting an unsuspecting pigeon in a collision that leaves a cloud of feathers trailing high, high in the sky.

It’s possible to train your senses to hear and see more wildlife. It’s easy to miss things, but with practice you can enjoy a walk in the park or the countryside so much more.

Remember that, like us, a bird or an animal of any kind is always doing something, and if at the moment you spot something it doesn’t appear to be that active, that doesn’t mean that in a few seconds or minutes it might not suddenly become a remarkable spectacle.

On the larger ponds in the park you might see a variety of ducks, swans and grebes. If you are there in spring and spot a duck-like bird with rather large grand, purple-coloured ear tufts, then hang around for a bit. You’re

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PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK; LAURENCE ARNOLD

I

’m standing on the gravel driveway at Hotel Endsleigh. My head turns up to the cawing of jackdaws high in the trees above. These highly intelligent birds are forever calling to each other with messages of love, warning or panic. This particular clattering of jackdaws tells a story of kinship, friendship and seasons – not one that I will ever fully understand, but one that I appreciate and accept.

Just then, a series of very high pitched squeals comes from the undergrowth a hundred or so metres away from the car park up on the bank under the trees.

I turn and realise that though other people are busy packing cases into their cars, they do not appear to have heard it.

They are certainly not responding.

This is a sound I know well. It is the call of a rabbit in huge distress, nearly always associated with an attack by a stoat or weasel. I grab my camera and trying to look as normal as possible, run like hell up the bank. I must look quite demented, but I’m sorry (to any bystanders that might have seen me and are reading this!), this is just too great an opportunity to be missed.

And, I wasn’t wrong. I see a stoat, just a foot long, dragging a fully grown dead rabbit (six times its own weight) along the ground. I know from experience that I can now test the patience of the stoat and close my distance to ten metres. I lunge in wide strides toward it, moving as if playing grandmother’s footsteps, until the stoat, now wholly aware of my presence, breaks free from the rabbit and bolts towards thick cover. I stop and then retreat a few metres. The stoat dashes back to the rabbit,

C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK; LAURENCE ARNOLD

FROM ABOVE: The great crested grebe exhibit extraordinary courting rituals; Lucknam Park in Wiltshire; the splendid emperor dragonfly; a common lizard found at the Wetland Centre in Barnes

looking at a great crested grebe, and their extraordinary courtship rituals are as delightful in their way as those of any bird of paradise.

The most difficult thing for us in this day and age is to appreciate and respect that we are part of the same natural world, even in cities. And contact with nature soothes our souls.

We all become entranced looking out over water. If we get close to any kind of wildlife, even feeding the ducks, we feel a connection restored. It’s a one that we’ve had for millions of years, so we can’t suddenly ignore it or pretend it’s not relevant to our souls or to our lives.

The emperor dragonfly buzzes over the water like a small drone. A great place to see them is at the London Wetland Centre at Barnes in high summer. The males have a brilliant sky blue sheen. If you spot one in flight, keep your eye on it.

It’ll move at speed, patrolling the same small area of water, zipping from point to point until it returns to a hover right beside you. You may think you are ‘eye to eye’ with this creature, but you are not. He has 30,000 beady eyes, giving him a panoramic view as he looks out for intruding males.

And if you think for a second he is not worth a second look, just contemplate the fact that dragonflies haven’t changed much in design for 300 million years (that’s older than many of the dinosaurs), and so yes, they are goddamn near perfect, thank you very much.

And though most people miss them, standing on the same wooden bridge at the Wetland Centre, take a very careful look at the end of the bridge as you walk off. You are not looking carefully enough. It’s completely still, basking in the sun, just an arms-length away from you, sitting on the wood. It’s a lizard.

Scaled with exotic patterns and streaks of green and grey it’s so easy to miss. You need to be looking for the shape of a lizard before your mind tunes to the shape and your eye focuses correctly. How many times have you stared into an aquarium at a zoo wondering what you are meant to be looking at? You glance at the picture, and look back, but you still can’t make out anything like the picture.

Well, in nature it’s even harder. The secret is to stop and

look really carefully just in one area. I like to sit in the long grass and look and listen.

Wait for a few minutes and start to look for any movement at all, and any sounds. It’s remarkable how even in a small patch of grass beetles will become apparent. Don’t worry that you can’t identify these things. Neither can I. There are 4,000 different kinds of beetles in the UK and only a handful of them are easily recognisable and distinguishable. One of these is the stag beetle, which is a magnificent creature and can be found living in Peckham.

You might well see grasshoppers and crickets (the difference only being the length of the antennae, which extend back, arched down over the body on the crickets and are short and forward facing on the grasshoppers). They’re difficult to catch without leaping out of your hand before you’ve had to time to close it, but do try.

Then, raise your hand closer to your eye and open it. You’ll get a good five seconds in which to look at it in awe.

The world around us is amazing and we desperately need to be more connected to it if we humans are to have any kind of long-term future on the planet. I believe it’s in our DNA to be attracted to animals, to watch them and understand them.

To deny them the chance to live with us and among us is ignoring a plea in our souls to be enriched. n If you want to get back to nature, join one of Fergus’s private nature retreats, which take place at Hotel Endsleigh, Devon (hotelendsleigh. com), Bailiffscourt, West Sussex (hshotels.co.uk/ bailiffscourt) and Lucknam Park, Wiltshire (lucknampark.co.uk)

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Devon, Cornwall & the Isles of Scilly The UK’s own little riviera attracts holidaymakers in their thousands to enjoy its balmy microclimate, spankingly fresh seafood and watersports aplenty

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Damian Shields, ‘Sailing’, St Michael’s Mount, Marazion, Cornwall, England (Landscape Photographer of the Year – Living the View 2011) . damianshields.com

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS Buy bouquets of Cornish flowers that have been selected for their meaning. As such, no two bunches are ever the same. recipeforflowers.co.uk

Nervous about tides? How about going half-wild swimming. There are many tidal sea pools dotted around the coastline, from Bude’s 91m sea pool to the lido-sized rock pool at Treyarnon. Most impressive is Penzance’s newly restored Art Deco Jubilee pool.

SUMMER

SPRING Step back to a simpler time on Lundy Island in the Bristol Channel. Here you’ll find puffins, seals… no cars. Bliss. You can stay in castles, old school houses and lighthouses through the Landmark Trust. landmarktrust.org.uk

Four Seasons

Wild swimming, Shakespeare on the rocks and the UK’s oldest pub to Jersey milk ice cream and a car-free island Hole up in Hawksfield on the Atlantic Highway between Padstow and Wadebridge, where you’ll find vintage film posters at Goose Shed, proper coffee at Strong Adolfos and local produce at The Arc Food Store. hawksfield cornwall.com

AUTUMN Pack a picnic and head for the dramatic clifftop Minack Theatre. Rowena Cade created the stage in the 1930s for local Shakespeare enthusiasts to perform The Tempest by moving tonnes of boulders with the help of her gardener.

Without doubt the most magical place in the country to go to the theatre. minack.com

WINTER Grab a pint at The Cridford Inn. The longhouse dates back to 825AD, making it one of the UK’s oldest pubs. thecridfordinn.co.uk

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK; STORYTRAVELERS; VISITBRITAIN

Sample some of the best fish in the country at the English Riviera’s biggest event of the year.

Fishstock Brixham is held every September in aid of the Fishermen’s Mission, which supports the welfare of active and retired fishermen. fishstockbrixham.co.uk

Scoop an ice cream from Roskilly’s near Helston, made using Jersey milk from the farm’s 125 cows.

They make everything from wild cherry with chocolate flakes to ownmade toffee flavours, but the vanilla is still the best. roskillys.co.uk

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26/05/2017 10:01

DEVON, CORNWALL & THE ISLES OF SCILLY

Blending tea

LIVE LIKE A LOCAL JONATHON’S TOP TIPS FOR CORNISH TRIPS

PUB The Kings Head in Ruan Lanihorne serves great local beers and sparklingly fresh local fish. kings-head-roseland.co.uk

Turning a New Leaf

Meet Jonathon Jones, who runs Britain’s first and only tea plantation – in the depths of Cornwall How difficult is it to grow tea in England?

Jonathon Jones

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK

What gave you the idea to start a tea plantation? Tregothnan has been home to the Boscawen family since 1335 and I joined as head gardener over 20 years ago. The gardens are the largest in Cornwall and are of huge importance because of their historic collections.

My challenge was to find a way to sustain and support them. We didn’t want to go down the route of opening them up to the public and charging entry fees – it changes the nature of a place, so we felt it wasn’t appropriate, but we had to find a way of earning an income.

Slowly the thought of growing tea developed.

After all, camellias were first grown wild here – so we thought, why not give it a whirl. We started trials with camellia sinensis, the species whose leaves and leaf buds are used to produce tea.

I still can’t believe that no one had tried it before us. We have proved that it can be done.

Winston Churchill suggested we should grow our own tea during the war but it’s not easy, even after 20 years, because it doesn’t always perform.

In essence, it is like the plant wants to die every year, so making it commercially viable has its challenges. Historically, the British have led the world in their tea tasting and blending skills but, as we have this reputation as a nation of tea drinkers, it’s right we should grow it as well.

What has been your biggest challenge? Apart from getting the tea right, changing the perception of tea to a quality, luxury product.

The actual process of harvesting involves picking or plucking the leaf, withering, rolling, oxidisation and drying. This is what affects the flavour and the nature of the tea. Getting customers to understand the processes, appreciate the differences and, of course, pay the price for that is not always easy.

What has been your biggest triumph? Would you believe it – selling tea to the Chinese.

What’s your favourite tea? It depends on the time of the day. At breakfast time, I’m a breakfast blend man but by mid-afternoon I’ll sip one of our new matcha teas, a wonderfully vibrant green tea. We now produce so many that I’m spoilt for choice. There’s also our smoked earl grey or our new green tea flavoured with saffron and cardamom. tregothnan.co.uk

FOOD Visit the fish market in Falmouth for great the freshest catch and, in late summer, look out for road-side stalls laden with Kea plums, a variety unique to Cornwall. falmouth.co.uk

SHOP Great Cornish Food, a new grocery store in Truro – next to Waitrose – is filled with exceptional local food and drink. greatcornishfood.co.uk

GARDEN You can visit the private historic gardens and arboretum at Tregothnan by appointment. This year the gardens are also open for charity. tregothnan.co.uk

WALK For a great walk, follow North Cornwall’s coastal path. One of my favourite routes is to walk from Rock to Port Isaac.

2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 39

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For the mash, peel the potatoes and cut into even-sized chunks.

Place in a large pan of salted water and bring to the boil.

Lower the heat to a simmer and cook for about 20 minutes until tender.

Drain the potatoes and let them sit in the colander for a few minutes, then return to the pan. Mash until smooth and beat in the butter and milk. Season with salt and pepper to taste and set aside.

Preheat your oven to 180°C/ Fan 165°C. For the filling, dice the INGREDIENTS smoked haddock, cut the smoked salmon SERVES EIGHT into strips and cut FOR THE FILLING the smoked mackerel » 600g smoked into bite-sized pieces, haddock, skinned » 150g smoked salmon checking for any pin » 150g smoked bones; set aside. Bring mackerel fillet the milk to a simmer » 1 litre whole milk » 100g unsalted butter in a large pan. Melt the » 100g plain flour butter in a smaller pan » 3 tbsp chopped and stir in the flour. spring onions » 2 tbsp small capers Cook, stirring, for a » 1 tbsp English mustard couple of minutes; don’t » 5 tbsp chopped let the roux brown. curly parsley » Sea salt and freshly Gradually stir in the ground black pepper hot milk, bring to a simmer and cook the FOR THE MASH TOPPING » 1.5kg floury potatoes, sauce over a low heat, such as Maris Piper stirring occasionally, » 100g unsalted butter for 20 minutes. » 200ml whole milk » 150g Parmesan, Take the pan freshly grated off the heat and stir the spring onions, capers, mustard and parsley into the sauce. Season to taste. Add the fish and toss to combine. Tip the fish and sauce into a large baking dish.

Spoon the mashed potatoes on top, then scatter over the grated Parmesan. Stand the dish on a baking sheet and bake in the oven for 25–30 minutes until piping hot through to the middle and golden.

Serve the pie straight away, with a tomato and cucumber salad or buttered leeks tossed with a little mint on the side.

Catch of the Day Nathan Outlaw’s not so humble pie demands the best quality fish caught off the South West coast

SMOKED FISH PIE

I admit I’m a little particular about fish pie and I don’t really like to mess about with the original, but smoked fish pie is a whole new kettle of fish (sorry!). Good quality smoked fish needs to be cooked very simply to appreciate its fine flavour and this recipe works a treat. If you come across smoked mussels or oysters, add a handful – it will take your pie to another level.

Nathan Outlaw

Extracted from Nathan Outlaw’s Home Kitchen by Nathan Outlaw (Quadrille, £20)

PHOTOS: DAVID LOFTUS

METHOD

40 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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DEVON, CORNWALL & THE ISLES OF SCILLY

ARTIST RESIDENCE PENZANCE, CORNWALL

It’s not surprising that Justin and Charlie (Charlotte) Salisbury turned to Cornwall with its vibrant art scene for their second venture.

In the charming old quarter of Penzance, they have converted a handsome, 17th-century house into a delightfully eclectic hotel, decorated with works of art from top to toe. In the airy bedrooms, walls are adorned with funky murals painted by British artists, original canvases and limited-edition prints. From sleigh beds to packing crate tables, the carefully chosen furniture has panache, and now six new house bedrooms have been unveiled, plus the fabulous Lookout, a luxe retreat complete with roof terrace, and a self-catering cottage sleeping up to six. In the Cornish Barn restaurant, overlooking historic Chapel Street, there are reclaimed wooden walls and bar, metal tables and more art. The look is a cross between kooky and industrial. Drinks and snacks are on tap all day, but don’t miss the outstanding cooked breakfast or sharing dishes served in the evening.

NAME TO KNOW... Jimmy – a born and bred Cornishman. Ask him where to get the tastiest cream tea or the best spot for a dip in the sea.

Doubles from £85 +44 (0)1736 365664; artistresidencecornwall.co.uk

THE BEACH AT BUDE BUDE, CORNWALL

The hottest of Cornish hotspots, The Beach at Bude is a skilfully updated Victorian house, retaining its original character, but with decoration that feels fresh and modern and looks the epitome of seaside chic. The groovy Beach Bar positively hums at weekends, with its inventive cocktail menu and summer terrace drawing a young crowd. The hotel has a resplendent position, with views over Summerleaze Beach and the spectacular scenery around Bude. There are four types of room: Classic, Classic Plus, Superior and Deluxe. Opt for one in the top two categories if you can – they have the sea views. All are decorated in a breezy New England style, furnished with Lloyd Loom chairs, limed-oak furniture and Vispring beds. Don’t miss lunch or dinner in the Beach Restaurant, where head chef, Joe Simmonds has a passion for developing menus that use fresh local ingredients. Not surprisingly, fish is the highlight.

NAME TO KNOW... Bar manager and mixologist extraordinaire Rudi West. Ask for one of his delicious blends with a Cornish twist. His espresso martini is also knockout.

Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1288 389800; thebeachatbude.co.uk 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 41

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

BLUE HAYES ST IVES, CORNWALL

Set high on a bluff, with panoramic sea views, yet only a short walk from St Ives, Blue Hayes has much to recommend it, but it’s the personality of this exceptional boutique hotel that really makes it stand out. The interior of the imposing granite house was re-designed a decade ago with stunning results and now makes an airy, contemporary, light-filled space in which to relax and soak up the views. The bar and dining room lead to a fine balustraded terrace shaded by Monterey pine and Cornish palm, while a smaller sitting room has a television and a cosier feel.

Several of the sophisticated bedrooms also have terraces and they are almost all notably spacious, with excellent bathrooms. Housekeeping is second to none, the food (including light suppers) delicious and the staff, including owner Malcolm Herring, delightful. This is a place for an extra spoiling treat: perhaps breakfast in bed or champagne on the terrace.

NAME TO KNOW... Jade, who you can tell you about walks from St Ives, the Monterey pine tree and the history of Godrevy lighthouse (which probably inspired Virginia Woolf’s novel To the Lighthouse).

Doubles from £210 +44 (0)1736 797129; bluehayes.co.uk

BOSKERRIS ST IVES, CORNWALL

Fancy a trip to the Med? Then nip down to this chic Cornish bolthole because the feeling, once settled in, is much the same.

Set in leafy grounds on the edge of St Ives, its fabulous decking terrace has stunning ocean views, with the promise of the beautiful Carbis Bay beach below. Inside, all is light and airy and floor-to-ceiling windows make the most of the sea views in both the inviting, spacious and stylish lounge and in the principal bedrooms. All 15 cool and cosseting rooms are different in size and decoration, though they share a soft palette of creams and off whites, accented with splashes of vibrant colour. Breakfast is a relaxed affair, with plenty of choice and there’s delicious afternoon tea and a simple, unfussy supper menu. For extra relaxation, take a massage in the hotel’s treatment room, or simply soak up the rays lounging on that unforgettable Mediterranean terrace. A delight.

NAME TO KNOW... Front of house member for nearly a decade, Sam, who knows where the locals go for lunch and the best stretch of coastal path to walk.

Doubles from £155 +44 (0)1736 795295; boskerrishotel.co.uk 42 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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DEVON, CORNWALL & THE ISLES OF SCILLY

CARY ARMS & SPA BABBACOMBE BEACH, DEVON

Its location is nothing short of spectacular, approached by a steep lane that descends the cliff. Once ensconced, the Cary Arms feels like a setting from a Mills & Boon romance and a Famous Five adventure rolled into one, its delightful bedrooms each supplied with a stick of rock on snow-white pillows. Eat Devon beef and Lyme Bay lobster in the stone-walled, slatefloored bar, or on pretty terraces that hang over the bay. Bedrooms in the house are sumptuous and seaside fresh and now there are beautiful beach huts and beach suites to choose from as well. Just when you don’t expect such sybaritic luxury at an ‘inn on the beach’ – there’s a stateof-the-art spa offering indulgent marine Thalgo treatments. Romantic, family (and dog) friendly, for walkers, fishermen and sailors, or just for fun: the Cary Arms has something for everyone.

NAME TO KNOW... Head chef Ben Kingdon, who can talk you through his recommendation of Lobster thermidor with garlic roasted new potatoes and lemon buttered samphire.

Doubles from £245 +44 (0)1803 327110; caryarms.co.uk

CHAPEL HOUSE PENZANCE, CORNWALL

Owned by an ex-banker with an aesthetic as sharp as her mind, Chapel House is an airy Georgian marvel, idyllically positioned over Penzance’s harbour and steeped in maritime history. Susan Stuart washed the once imposing home of an admiral in airy white, bringing this grand canvas into the modern world.

Waterfall-showers and Nordic chairs sit alongside opulent marble fireplaces and mahogany chests, the six-bedroom house is as elegant as it is relaxed. Guests who bag the top floor room can bathe under the stars – a glass roof opening above their heads. Bruce Rennie’s infamous The Shore seafood restaurant is just a stone’s throw away, as is Penlee House Gallery and Museum. Chapel House’s walls themselves are awash with modern pieces from Newlyn School of Art. And despite the local antique shops, galleries and otherworldly beaches to explore, this elegant haven’s exceptional wine list and cuisine, its crispy linen and books galore beg the question: ‘Why ever leave?’

NAME TO KNOW... Susan Stuart, an oracle whose speciality is recommending excursions that are off the beaten track.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1736 362024; chapelhousepz.co.uk 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 43

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE CIDER HOUSE BUCKLAND ABBEY, DEVON

Bertie and Bryony Hancock are enchanting: young, enthusiastic and determined to succeed.

And they have created an equally enchanting guesthouse, in a beautiful old house in the grounds of National Trust’s Buckland Abbey.

Once the home of Sir Francis Drake, it’s as delightful as it is historic and house guests are free to wander in the wild flower-filled Cider House Garden and the immaculate monks’ kitchen gardens and beehives; all maintained by the National Trust. At the Cider House there are four sophisticated yet homely bedrooms, with all the right touches, including flowers, Roberts radios, magazines and Ren products. Breakfast is a feast cooked by Bryony and served by Bertie, and although dinner isn’t provided, they do offer gorgeous hampers full of goodies. And there’s something else: a ten-minute walk from the Cider House, in the most glorious unspoilt countryside with views down to the Tamar estuary, are two quite exceptional and luxurious shepherds’ huts.

NAME TO KNOW... Owners Bertie and Bryony, who are passionate about all things Cider House. They always ensure guests have a relaxed and personal experience.

Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1822 259062; cider-house.co.uk

DRIFTWOOD ROSEVINE, CORNWALL

There’s no more fabulous vista, more Mediterranean than Cornish, than from clifftop Driftwood. Overlooking Gerrans Bay on the Roseland Peninsula, it includes seven acres of gardens full of secluded, shady spots, leading to a perfect crescent of private beach. Halfway down is a restored cabin with two bedrooms and a sitting room: a magical place to stay in summer. A wildflower garden is home to bees that produce honey for the restaurant. The house itself, a ’30s building transformed with the aid of dusky blue clapboard, makes the most of the views. Whether in the bedrooms, relaxing on the generous terrace, or indulging in the Michelinstarred cooking of chef Chris Eden in the chic dining room, you find yourself rooted to the spot. Driftwood was opened by Paul and Fiona Robinson 15 years ago; neither were hoteliers but Fiona’s skill as an interior designer, plus their hands-on approach and ease with guests, have created a delightful Cornish hotel, stylish and seaside-fresh but devoid of pretension.

NAME TO KNOW... Executive chef Chris Eden. Ask him the origins of his Thunder and Lightning Tart.

Doubles from £190 +44 (0)1872 580644; driftwoodhotel.co.uk 44 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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DEVON, CORNWALL & THE ISLES OF SCILLY

THE GURNARD’S HEAD ZENNOR, CORNWALL

‘The simple things in life done well,’ say brothers Edmund and Charlie Inkin about their three delightful hostelries: The Gurnard’s Head and The Old Coastguard here in Cornwall (see page 49), and The Felin Fach Griffin in Wales (see page 198). Nothing could be closer to the truth, or more perfectly exemplified than at this sunshine-yellow dining pub with rooms, its name writ large on its tiled roof. Set in the wild landscape of Cornwall’s Atlantic coast, it’s an unpretentious haven. In the brightly painted bedrooms, you’ll find luxurious beds, jam jars filled with fresh flowers and Roberts radios but no TVs. Or phones, despite the fact that mobile signals don’t have so much as a nodding acquaintance with the skies in these parts.

But panic at being cut off quickly gives way to a sense of peace and satisfaction, reinforced by head chef Max Wilson’s divine local and seasonal menu, changing daily according to what’s brought to the back door.

NAME TO KNOW... Josh Spencer, number two at The Gurnard’s Head, who previously worked at sister inn, The Felin Fach Griffin. Ask him about his love of Greek wines.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1736 796928; gurnardshead.co.uk

HELL BAY BRYHER, ISLES OF SCILLY

California meets the Atlantic Ocean at this terrific hotel on Bryher, the smallest community in the Isles of Scilly. It takes commitment to get there by ferry and jeep but, when you do, you’ll find nothing but grass, golden sand, a jumble of rocks and the vast ocean between you and America. It’s the creation of Robert DorrienSmith, hereditary owner of neighbouring island Tresco. He has filled the seaside-fresh hotel with modern art, all with a regional connection.

The 25 beautiful, airy suites – many of which can be divided into two – can each sleep up to four with huge double beds and attractive armchair beds for children, and are decorated with Malabar fabrics and Lloyd Loom furniture. There’s also a pool, tennis court, play area, games and fitness rooms, as well as a sumptuous spa treatment room. Delicious, colourful dishes, including local produce, such as Bryher crabs and Tresco beef, are served in sunny weather on the wide terrace, where you can drink in the astonishing views.

NAME TO KNOW... Jasper, the resident spaniel, who will show you the best spots to walk and Bryher, his favourite beach to play ball on.

Doubles from £270 +44 (0)1720 422947; hellbay.co.uk 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 45

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE HORN OF PLENTY TAVISTOCK, DEVON

One of Devon’s best restaurants – 50 years old this year – is housed in this gracious, peaceful country manor hotel, where the modern British food is locally sourced, beautifully presented and of superb quality.

Many other pleasures await you here, not least the views. The Tamar makes a silver dash as it flows through its deep, rocky gorge, and among the thick woods that rise above it, several curious chimneys poke above the trees, a reminder of the area’s copper mining past. In fact, the house was built in 1866 for the Mine Captain, James Richards. Then there are the pretty gardens, where tea is served in summer, and the house itself: airy and elegant with wooden floors and picture windows. There are 16 stylish bedrooms (six in a sleek new wing, most with stunning views) and gracefully simple reception rooms, with stripped floors and fine pictures. A much loved address, in the best of hands.

NAME TO KNOW... The gardener Martin. You can ask him for the Latin name of any plant in the garden and he’ll know exactly what it is.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1822 832528; thehornofplenty.co.uk

HOTEL ENDSLEIGH MILTON ABBOT, DEVON

This delightful Regency cottage orné is set down a mile-long drive in its own secret valley.

Built for the Duke and Duchess of Bedford, its gardens were designed by Humphry Repton, who also hid chimneys in the woods so that they could see smoke curling prettily above the trees.

Today, over a delicious meal, you can gaze upon the same view from lovely terraces. Repton’s Yew Walk, the River Tamar and the tumbling woods beyond are a mesmerising sight. With its wooden floors and doors, Endsleigh brings to mind an endearingly old-fashioned Scottish shooting lodge, but one artfully blended with contemporary luxury and owner Olga Polizzi’s stunning eye for design. The sitting room is fabulous and two new suites, one perfect for families, the other for honeymooners, have been created in the stable block, bringing the total number of stylish and unfussy bedrooms to 18.

As for the grounds, they are a fantasy of dells and grottos, cascades and crags.

NAME TO KNOW... Head gardener Ben Ruscombe-King, who can take you on a tour of the grounds, which were designed

by Humphry Repton 200 years ago.

Doubles from £190 +44 (0)1822 870000; hotelendsleigh.com 46 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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DEVON, CORNWALL & THE ISLES OF SCILLY

HOTEL TRESANTON ST MAWES, CORNWALL

With fabulous views over Falmouth Bay, Tresanton became a landmark when hotelier Olga Polizzi created the first truly fashionable and chic British seaside bolthole. Eighteen years on, it effortlessly holds its own without any of the pretension of more recent, glossier addresses. Indeed, with its new Beach Garden for lounging in the sun or eating gourmet burgers, it has never been better. Bedrooms are engaging and stylish, and there’s a ship’s deck of a terrace. But the hotel also has cosiness, underpinned by professional service from waiters in white, silver-buttoned jackets. As well as the bedrooms in the main house, furnished with antiques and Cornish art, there are three each in separate Rock Cottage and The Nook. These fabulous suites are perfect for families, while the master suite in Rock Cottage has a wood burner and crow’s nest terrace. As for the locally sourced food, it’s served in a magical Mediterranean room, sunlit by day, candlelit by night.

NAME TO KNOW... Gilbert, the head barman of the Dogs’ Bar, who will reveal the secret ingredients in his legendary Tresanton Bloody Mary, if you ask nicely.

Doubles from £210 +44 (0)1326 270055; tresanton.com

LYMPSTONE MANOR EXMOUTH, DEVON

This handsome country-house hotel is the culmination of the experience gleaned

by Michael Caines over the course of an exceptional career. Once the playground of the Baring banking family, it has now opened with 21 glamorous guestrooms that take their names from the birds of the Exe Estuary below.

The soul of the place is pinned around the Exe, from the staircase wallpaper featuring all 21 birds, hand-painted by local artist Rachel Toll, to the impeccable choice of art on the walls depicting the surrounding Devonshire scenery by British artists like Kurt Jackson (and available to buy). But the reason you come here isn’t really for the deep bathtubs that overlook the estuary, or for the complimentary G&T tray in your room – it’s to experience Michael’s exquisite and intelligent food, informed by South West England’s larder and two decades at the helm of a two Michelin-starred restaurant.

This is the future of the country-house hotel.

NAME TO KNOW... Head sommelier Marko Mägi, who can show you Lympstone Manor’s wine room and is the man to guide you through an exceptional list of 600 bins.

Doubles from £255 +44 (0)1395 202040; lympstonemanor.co.uk 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 47

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE NARE VERYAN, CORNWALL

Opened in 1988 by Bettye Gray, whose family has been central to the Cornish hotel scene since 1908, The Nare was the county’s first luxury establishment. Today, owner Toby Ashworth continues, superbly, to uphold his beloved grandmother’s vision of warm, traditional hospitality and his many regular guests are drawn by the enveloping kindness, the offer of collection by car from their home, the location on stunning Carne Beach and the good food in the splendid dining room, where waitresses dart about in black skirts and white pinnies and the flambée trolley is on hand. Children are embraced. Dogs have their own menus.

There’s a fine spa with two pools. No bothersome advance booking is required for activities: in fact, Toby likes nothing better than to suggest a sail in his Cornish Crabber, picnic stowed, or to visit some of the many gardens nearby. The hotel also has its own motor launch, Alice Rose.

A unique address, perfect for extended families.

NAME TO KNOW... Ken Cracknell, the head barman, who has been with The Nare for over 30 years and is considered ‘Father of the House’. Ask him anything.

Doubles from £290 +44 (0)1872 501111; narehotel.co.uk

NONSUCH HOUSE DARTMOUTH, DEVON

Run with great care and commitment

by Kit and Penny Noble, Nonsuch House is a tall, slim building that stands high above the Dartmouth ferry at Kingswear.

The views, looking across the river towards Dartmouth, are superb and can be seen from all the windows. The four fresh, pretty bedrooms, named after shipping forecasts, are comfortable and well equipped. The sitting room is decorated in rich, warm colours and furnished with comfy sofas and an open fire. Award-winning breakfasts – it is hard to imagine better – and delicious, locally sourced dinners, prepared by Kit, are served in the modern conservatory that also has stunning views over the river to the sea. This, in turn, leads down the hill to a lovely little garden for residents to use. Kit and Penny will organise any of the varied activities around Dartmouth, such as sailing, river trips or bracing walks.

A perfect guesthouse, and one that has been quietly and genuinely green for many years.

NAME TO KNOW... Kit Noble, owner and chef, who you should ask about all things local, such as food, walks, sailing and what to see nearby.

Doubles from £135 +44 (0)1803 752829; hoteldartmouth.co.uk 48 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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DEVON, CORNWALL & THE ISLES OF SCILLY

THE OLD COASTGUARD MOUSEHOLE, CORNWALL

Of Charlie and Edmund Inkin’s collection of effortlessly laid-back places to stay (see pages 45 and 198), this has the best location: overlooking the sea in the enchanting fishing village of Mousehole, noted for its artists, Christmas illuminations and legend of ‘Stargazy Pie’. A hotel since Victorian times, the 14 sea-facing bedrooms have happily submitted to Charlie’s penchant for tongue and groove panelling, pale blue or mustard yellow walls, auction room finds and striped curtains. Downstairs, in the open-plan, woodfloored bar/dining room, you’ll tuck in to head chef Matt Smith’s superb dishes. Making the most of the view through picture windows, the sun-filled sitting area, embellished by striped armchairs and handsome sofas, runs the length of the ground floor. Lazing there, looking across the palm-filled garden to the shining sea, you’ll keep delaying your departure by another hour. It’s that sort of place.

NAME TO KNOW... Junior sous chef Yvonne Trembath. Her father runs the neighbouring farm to sister inn, The Gurnard’s Head, where she started as a kitchen porter in 2007.

Doubles from £140 +44 (0)1736 731222; oldcoastguardhotel.co.uk

PADSTOW TOWNHOUSE PADSTOW, CORNWALL

The lovely fishing town of Padstow has an astonishing knack for food and hospitality.

Not only does it harbour Rick Stein’s restaurants and guesthouses but also young Paul Ainsworth, the most friendly, grounded Michelin-starred chef you could hope to meet.

He has two restaurants: at No 6 enjoy creative, fun, delicately flavoured meat and fish dishes, while Rojano’s is for cut-above pizza, pasta and burgers. And it’s for elegant breakfasts, if you are lucky enough to stay at Paul’s handsome six-bedroom guesthouse, run with great kindness and set high in the pretty old town (their electric BMW will transport you in inclement weather). The astonishing attention to detail includes a superbly stocked ‘honesty’ pantry, a flat roof turned ‘lawn’ and bedrooms overflowing with thoughtful extras, such as flasks of hot chocolate at bedtime. Each one is a haven of gorgeousness, created with love and care. Spoiling Wave Therapy spa treatments are available too.

NAME TO KNOW... Lucinda Bayne, who runs the townhouse and adores Cornwall, ask her where to visit, be it walks, gardens or art galleries.

Doubles from £280 +44 (0)1841 550950; padstowtownhouse.co.uk 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 49

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE PIG – AT COMBE GITTISHAM, DEVON

Combe House breathes romance. As you approach down the mile-long drive, surrounded by meadows, the Grade I listed Elizabethan manor slips tantalisingly in and out of sight.

It has always been a special place but now it’s brimful of life, bonhomie and informal, stylish character, having become the latest – and most exciting yet – PIG hotel. With the main bar installed in the historic Great Hall, the fun starts the moment you walk inside.

There’s a wonderful double aspect conservatory restaurant with bare wood floors, restored shutters and incredible views; cosy snugs with roaring fires; a derelict chic garden folly with wood-fired oven; huge rafter bedrooms in the attic; an atmospheric private dining room in the original Georgian kitchen and so much more. In the walled infusion garden, two potting sheds are now delightful treatment rooms, beyond which lie 3,500 acres of lush Devonshire countryside.

Close by are the wide open spaces of Dartmoor and the World Heritage coast. A total joy.

NAME TO KNOW... Alex Coutts, who keeps three of the kitchen gardens flourishing, which are the beating heart of any PIG hotel.

Doubles from £145 +44 (0)1404 540400; thepighotel.com

POLURRIAN BAY HOTEL MULLION, CORNWALL

If you want to take your kids on a bucket-andspade holiday, but need a break from time to time, Polurrian Bay provides the solution.

Perched on the cliffs of the Lizard Peninsula, this one-time Victorian railway hotel, now attractively updated, offers an Ofsted-registered crèche with experienced staff for children over three months, indoor and outdoor play areas and pools, a games room, cinema room, gym and spa. It also has a lovely quiet beach, perfect for building sandcastles, comfortable good-sized family rooms (some interconnecting) and special kids’ meals.

The hotel’s interior is pared down, Scandi style, with blonde wood floors and furniture. Colourful chairs and sofas fill the pleasant conservatory space, which opens out to a sunny terrace. The dining room doesn’t just cater for children: the menu usually features organic beef reared on nearby Goonhilly Downs and locally caught mackerel. And there’s surfing, kayaking, horse riding, golf and walking, on the doorstep.

NAME TO KNOW... House manager Steve Cobbin, who has been with the hotel for the past six years. He lives locally, so is able recommend the best spots to visit.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1326 240421; polurrianhotel.com 50 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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DEVON, CORNWALL & THE ISLES OF SCILLY

THE SCARLET MAWGAN PORTH, CORNWALL

Overlooking romantic Mawgan Porth beach, this scintillating eco hotel blurs the boundaries between inside and out, with glass walls, flat roofs covered in sea thrift and infinity pools that seem to reach to the sea. At its heart is the womb-like Ayurvedic spa, with tented pods suspended in the dark for deep relaxation.

There’s also an indoor pool and reed-fringed, rock-strewn outdoor pool, plus two cliff-top hot tubs perched between boulders overlooking the ocean. Bedrooms are in clusters on several levels, soothing, with funky touches, excellent lighting, gorgeous beds and sea and sunset views. As for the delicious food, executive chef Tom Hunter oversees with an air of calm, kindness and mutual respect for his staff that makes The Scarlet kitchen the warm and welcoming hub of the hotel. The Scarlet may be thoroughly green but there’s no sense of a hair shirt approach: once inside this adults-only sanctuary, the feeling is one of soothing, sybaritic luxury.

NAME TO KNOW... The house managers, Jenny and Leanne, who work in the beautifully designed relaxation spaces and love to help guests with any questions that they might have.

Doubles from £240 +44 (0)1637 861800; scarlethotel.co.uk

THE SEAFOOD RESTAURANT PADSTOW, CORNWALL

Padstow is synonymous with Rick and Jill Stein.

And if a restaurant can be a hub, then Rick’s famous Seafood Restaurant is just that, where red-aproned waiters whisk about in the airy, colourful dining room and a chandelier made of bobbing white fish creates an eye-catching start to a memorable meal. Or you can eat more simply at Rick Stein’s Café, St Petroc’s Bistro or Stein’s Fish & Chips, which are all equally fun. As for sleeping, choose from a variety of stylish lodgings, designed

by Jill Stein, and set in charming, white-painted village houses. There are lovely rooms above The Seafood Restaurant, while the cheapest are those above the Café and the most expensive in St Edmunds House, with oak floors, American shutters and views across the Camel Estuary.

There are also four sunny rooms in Prospect House, situated behind St Petroc’s, which has a further ten. The one-bedroom cottage in the heart of Padstow, Bryn Cottage, has estuary views, secluded garden and a kitchen.

NAME TO KNOW... Jack Stein, executive chef, who oversees the company’s restaurants.

Ask him what is his favourite dish.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1841 532700; rickstein.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 51

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

STAR CASTLE HOTEL ST MARY’S, ISLES OF SCILLY

Fashioned from a perfect, star-shaped, 16thcentury castle set on a headland above Hugh Town, this hotel is a stellar find. Stretching out behind are the modern Garden Rooms, perfect for families, plus an indoor pool and conservatory dining room, all set in lush grounds. It was once the most secure defence post in the British Isles but, nowadays, this castle has the charm and intimacy of a Cotswold cottage. As well as the cosy bar (formerly the dungeon), first-floor sitting room and stone-walled dining room, there are eight charming bedrooms in the castle itself, plus three in former guardrooms embedded in the castle walls. As for food, you can indulge in owner Robert Francis’s two passions, fishing and wine, by eating a steamed lobster that he has caught himself and drinking a fabulous bottle from his carefully selected wine list. At breakfast, Robert’s son, James, arranges guest outings along with the hotel’s boatman, Tim. A family affair, and a special one at that.

NAME TO KNOW... Sarah Whittaker, head receptionist, who has been with the hotel for 29 years. Ask her anything, she will even book flights to the islands for you.

Doubles from £157.50 +44 (0)1720 422317; star-castle.co.uk

ST ENODOC ROCK, CORNWALL

Well-heeled British families have flocked to Rock for their bucket-and-spade holidays for generations, but it wasn’t until the emergence, in the late 1990s, of classic seaside hotel St Enodoc, following a total makeover, that they had somewhere to stay that was both stylish and relaxed, as well as just right for all ages.

Today, James Nathan is in charge of the food at the brasserie-style restaurant and its Mediterranean feel, clean lines, easy-going comfort and wide terrace for outdoor dining are in perfect harmony with its location.

Modern European dishes are fresh, healthy and locally sourced. Upstairs, the bedrooms – many with views across the water – are brightly painted, with original art on the walls. St Enodoc Hotel and Spa makes the ideal seaside base, with surrounding sandy beaches, the ferry to Padstow and St Enodoc golf course on the doorstep. There’s fine walking too: don’t miss hidden St Enodoc Church, resting place of Sir John Betjeman, who loved this area.

NAME TO KNOW... Jane on reception.

Ask her where to find the best walks on the moors or on the coast paths.

Doubles from £200 +44 (0)1208 863394; enodoc-hotel.co.uk 52 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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DEVON, CORNWALL & THE ISLES OF SCILLY

TALLAND BAY PORTHALLOW, CORNWALL

On the South Cornish coast between Polperro and Looe, Talland Bay Hotel is set in two lush acres of subtropical gardens, a pebble’s skim from the beach. From the outside, it is a quite conventional, long, low, white-painted building, partially covered in creeper, but the interior packs a cool punch. You’ll find sofas covered in zany zebra stripes, extravagantly high-backed chairs and quirky contemporary paintings and objets d’art. The gorgeous panelled dining room is more classic, an appropriate setting for Nick Hawke’s top-notch Cornish cooking.

A large terrace provides plenty of space for summer dining, while the conservatory-style brasserie offers a more laid-back alternative.

The hotel prides itself on being dog-friendly, with pooches welcome in most bedrooms as well as the cottages on the grounds.

Choose to stay in one of the 22 beach chic rooms, perhaps with a sleigh bed or fourposter draped in white fabric. Or for more space and privacy, the cottages are perfect.

NAME TO KNOW... General manager Stephen Waite. Ask him which gin to have from the extensive selection.

Doubles from £160 +44 (0)1503 272667; tallandbayhotel.co.uk

TREWORNAN MANOR WADEBRIDGE, CORNWALL

Paul and Lesley Stapleton are natural hosts – genial, welcoming and knowledgeable about the area. In 2014, they rescued this handsome, Grade II-listed manor house with an eight-acre garden from dilapidation (it dates from 1211, making it one of the oldest in Cornwall). The Stapletons have refurbished it immaculately, retaining its architectural features but bringing it tastefully into the 21st century. The five bedrooms have been beautifully and individually decorated, with emperor-sized beds and state-of-the-art bathrooms. The little things haven’t been forgotten either: baked goods and cream teas home-made by Paul’s mother, hotties and robes upstairs; crackling fires, delicious breakfasts and an honesty bar downstairs. The large sitting room is a real home from home, and the location could hardly be better, within striking distance of some of North Cornwall’s prettiest towns, best beaches, most famous golf courses and most lauded restaurants. A boutique B&B just for adults – a great place to escape the kids.

NAME TO KNOW... Paul, one of the owners.

Ask him about the best local eateries in the area. He knows all the local best-kept secrets.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1208 812359; trewornanmanor.co.uk 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 53

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The West Country Dorset, Wiltshire and Somerset offer everything from dramatic Jurassic coastline, cider apple orchards and the beauty of genteel Bath to an increasingly cool arts scene and the world’s most famous musical festival, Glastonbury

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Ken Leslie, ‘Grazing Cattle’, Marleycombe Hill, Wiltshire, England (Landscape Photographer of the Year – Classic View 2012). kenlesliephotography.co.uk

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS When Stourhead Garden opened in the 1740s it was regarded as ‘a living work of art’. Amble down paths that lead to classical temples, over a Palladian bridge and around the glorious lake. nationaltrust.org.uk/stourhead

See Bristol from the water and float up the Avon Gorge, beneath the Clifton Suspension Bridge and through the famous Bristol floating harbour.

SPRING

Lyme Regis Jazz and Blues Festival during the May bank holiday is a great way to see live, traditional and modern jazz. The backdrop of the pretty Dorset coastal town makes it even better.

SUMMER

Whether it’s fish and chips or oysters and champagne, head to Weymouth and sample its amazing seafood while looking out over the old harbour.

Old Sarum is a historian’s heaven.

See the site of Salisbury’s first cathedral, the Royal Castle built

by William the Conqueror, and the Iron Age hillfort erected in 400 BC.

Camp Bestival, the family-friendly sister of Bestival held at Lulworth Castle, likes to call itself a ‘festi-holiday’. There is entertainment from DJs and a whole host of fun activities for all ages. campbestival.net

Four Seasons

Glorious gardens, family festivals and that most gorgeous of Georgian draws, the lovely city of Bath

The Roman Baths in Bath are the remains of one of the greatest religious spas of the ancient world and well worth a visit. The baths still flow with natural hot water from the thermal springs that lie beneath the city. thermaebathspa.com

WINTER From Golden Cap, which is part of the Jurassic Coast, there are breathtaking views of the English Channel and surrounding countryside. Search for fossils on the beach.

This year is Longleat Safari Park’s 50th anniversary, and its annual Festival of Light will not disappoint. See Beatrix Potter characters come alive with light. longleat.co.uk

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK; VISIT BRITAIN; © ENGLISH HERITAGE

AUTUMN Regarded as one of the most important historical ships in the world, SS Great Britain was a feat of engineering. For nautical enthusiasts, the ship docked in Bristol is a must-see. ssgreatbritain.org

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THE WEST COUNTRY

Apple fun in Somerset

LIVE LIKE A LOCAL JULIAN’S WEST COUNTRY HAUNTS

ART

The Brandy Man Can

Single-handedly, Julian Temperley of The Somerset Cider Brandy Company, has transformed the world of cider by creating a range of smooth and sophisticated drinks

PHOTOS: MATILDA TEMPERLEY; © GUILLERMO KUITCA (2013); THINKSTOCK; MATT AUSTIN

Julian Temperley

Where are you based? Kingsbury Episcopi on the edge of the Somerset Levels. Episcopi means ‘of the bishop’, so tithes were paid to the Bishopric of Bath and West – this area is studded with history.

How did it all start? I had bought and was running a mixed farm in the ’70s but I had a dream: I wanted to create something to honour the great tradition of Somerset cider. By the late-’80s, the laws about setting up an artisanal distillery were relaxed, so suddenly I was allowed to buy and run a distillery. And so Somerset Cider Brandy was born.

What has changed since then? We’ve grown considerably. But the essence of the craft remains the same. About half our production is sold as cider, the rest is distilled. We now sell three, five, ten, 15

and 20-year-old bottles of brandy, plus Somerset Pomona. Similar to a Pineau des Charentes, it’s an apéritif made with apple juice blended with spirit and aged in cider brandy barrels.

What has been your biggest challenge? The world of cider is very old fashioned and full of mystique’. But when it comes to it, the mystique is wrapped up in the history of the villages, the orchards, the extraordinarily named cider apples and the general foulness of ‘proper’ cider. My challenge was to create a great drink that was smooth, sophisticated, full of ‘appleness’ that would stand up fair and square anywhere in the world.

How is Somerset Cider Brandy different from Calvados? Calvados producers are our friendly cousins but we make ours with different apple varieties, grown in different soils, in different climates and using different maturing techniques.

But like all craft cider production, the base must be blended from 100 per cent fermented apple juice – no concentrates allowed.

Hauser & Wirth is a superb gallery. The Roth Grill, its on-site restaurant, holds barbecues in the courtyard. hauserwirthsomerset.com

FOOD The Trading Post, Lopenhead sells own-grown organic fruit and vegetables and much more. tradepost.plus.com

PUB The Devonshire Arms, Long Sutton – crackling fires and comfy armchairs in winter and charming garden and terrace in summer. thedevonshirearms.com

VILLAGE South Petherton, one of the last villages packed with independent shops – butcher, baker, greengrocer and deli – it has them all.

What has been your proudest moment?

Julian’s farm produces many ciders and brandies

When I received my first order from Noma – one of the world’s leading restaurants – for my Somerset Pomona.

It put it out there as one of the jewels of the British drinks industry. ciderbrandy.co.uk

RESTAURANT Hix Oyster and Fish House boasts stunning views across the Jurassic coast and, of course, fresh fish cooked in a relaxed style. hixrestaurants.co.uk

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THE WEST COUNTRY

Drunk Birds This dish makes the most of the local ‘sauce’. It will leave you in fine feather, says Gill Meller

ROAST PARTRIDGE WITH SAGE, THYME AND CIDER

For me, partridge is every bit as good as pheasant. I always enjoy cooking it, and it seems to punch above its weight when it comes to flavour and texture. A brace carefully roasted will make a fine supper for two.

Heat the oven to 200°C. Place the partridges in a small roasting tray, then tuck the herbs in and around the birds.

Add the two halves of the garlic bulb and season well.

Drizzle the olive oil over the birds, place a knob of butter on top of each, then put the roasting tray in the oven. Roast the partridges for 20–25 minutes, until the skin is golden brown.

Remove the roasting tray from the oven and remove the birds to a clean plate, INGREDIENTS positioning them upside SERVES TWO down and » 2 oven-ready partridges leaving them » 1 bunch of sage to rest » 1 bunch of thyme sprigs » 1 garlic bulb, halved somewhere around its circumference warm. » 1 tbsp extra-virgin Meanwhile, olive oil » 2 large knobs of butter place the » 100ml cider roasting tray » 150ml double cream directly over » 1 tsp Dijon mustard » Salt and freshly ground a medium heat. black pepper To make the sauce, add the cider and bring the contents of the tray to the boil. Add the cream and stir in the mustard. Bring the sauce back to the boil, then lower the heat and simmer gently for about five minutes, until nicely reduced and beginning to thicken. Season the sauce.

Return the birds to the roasting tray along with any juices left on the plate. Bring to the table in the tray, then place one bird on each plate and spoon over plenty of sagey, cidery sauce. Serve with buttery mash.

Gill Meller

Recipe Extracted from Gather

by Gill Meller (Quadrille, £25)

PHOTOS: ANDREW MONTGOMERY

METHOD

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There’s more to discover Beach boutiques, luxe lodges, intimate inns, city grand dames.

Check out the extraordinar y collection of hotels included in A&K’s tailor-made holidays, it will guarantee you’ll want to check in.

abercrombiekent.co.uk | Tel: 01242 546 619 | #EscapeExplore

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

10 CASTLE STREET CRANBORNE, DORSET

Delightful Alex and Gretchen Boon used to own the King John Inn at nearby Tollard Royal. There they gained a huge following, so much so that they decided to create a private club for their many friends.

This is the result, and the good news is that the gorgeous ground-floor restaurant, bar, drawing room and outdoor terrace, and the nine gracious bedrooms are open to all, while the first floor is reserved for members, including Londoners seeking a cool but homely weekend retreat. Though it sounds humble, 10 Castle Street is in fact a glorious early 18th-century mansion set in stately gardens, whose scale and beauty is a thrill.

The ethos of head chef, Alex Fulluck, is ‘field to plate’ and here they rear pigs (named Desmond and Gladys), produce vegetables and shoot their own venison.

The atmosphere is laid back and fun, a spa is soon to come and it has quickly become one of the most sought-after country boltholes.

NAME TO KNOW... Anita, who creates the most delicious cocktails will happily give anyone a lesson or two.

Doubles from £195 +44 (0)1725 551133; 10castlestreet.com

ABBEY HOTEL BATH, SOMERSET

Bath hotels are not generally given to fun.

By and large, they are a sedate bunch, where if you spied an Austen-esque character in bonnet and petticoats slipping through their Georgian front doors, you wouldn’t be too surprised.

The Abbey, by contrast, delivers, not least because its owners Ian and Christa Taylor have forged close community ties, including with Bath Rugby Club and local art students, some of whose work adorns the walls. With a city centre location, relaxed, sassy looks and affordable prices, the place has energy and a great mix of guests: you might encounter an Austrian walking party, a visiting choir or a clutch of Radio One DJs. An animated year-round pavement terrace with sofas, tables and trees in tubs stretches the length of the three townhouses that make up the hotel, and the vaulted Igloo bar is just the place for a private party. As for the romantic Allium restaurant, it’s now the province of local talent Rupert Taylor – watch this space.

NAME TO KNOW... Beverage manager Tim, who is passionate about booze in all its forms and is pretty handy with a Boston tin.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1225 461603; abbeyhotelbath.co.uk 60 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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THE WEST COUNTRY

BACKWELL HOUSE BRISTOL

There’s an exclusive feel to this independently owned hotel, opened in 2016 in a stunningly refurbished Georgian Bath-stone house, without it being the slightest bit stuffy. Despite large grounds and impressive proportions, it only has nine bedrooms. And, with its acres of woodland stretching to rolling hills, ornamental walled garden, immaculate lawns and ha-ha, it’s hard to believe that edgy Bristol is only a 15-minute drive away. Inside, it is a delight, a host of humorous design touches, from a chandelier created with antlers to basins set into suitcases.

The imaginatively decorated bedrooms are masterclasses in upcycling, with reclaimed timber headboards, reconditioned vintage baths and bakelite telephones. Other treats include inroom massages, reiki and reflexology, a cinema room, fun bar and brand new restaurant (open for lunch and dinner Wednesday to Sunday), showcasing Josh Hutson’s ingredients-driven, seasonal cooking. A grown-up retreat, which also lends itself to weddings and private parties.

NAME TO KNOW... Guy Williams, general manager and creator. Ask him about the renovation works and design process.

Doubles from £145 +44 (0)1173 251110; backwellhouse.co.uk

THE BECKFORD ARMS FONTHILL GIFFORD, WILTSHIRE

On the Fonthill Estate, founded by the eccentric William Beckford in the 18th century, the stylish yet immediately welcoming Beckford Arms combines country pub, restaurant and comforting place to stay in equal measure.

Eat in the animated bar, elegant dining room, pretty conservatory, private dining room in the library or quiet sitting room, with log fire, sofas and table piled with books and magazines. You eat well: pickled quail’s eggs and homemade sausage rolls at the bar; hearty but imaginative lunches and dinners; peerless breakfasts. You sleep well: owners Dan Brod and Charlie Luxton have thought of everything for the sophisticated guest: luxurious beds; woolly hot water bottles; digital radios with iPod docks; pretty lamps and throws; garden flowers; great selection of DVDs; Chloë Luxton’s lovely Bramley toiletries. There’s an outdoor pizza oven and the garden rambles towards a boules piste and the stone arch leading to romantic Fonthill and its lake is right opposite.

NAME TO KNOW... Patricia, who has been a waitress here for eight years. Ask her at breakfast for great local recommendations which sound even better in her Parisian accent.

Doubles from £95 +44 (0)1747 870385; beckfordarms.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 61

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

BOWOOD HOTEL, SPA AND GOLF RESORT CALNE, WILTSHIRE

There are 43 spacious, contemporary bedrooms in this fine estate hotel, but it’s the stunning reception rooms, designed by Lady Lansdowne, that make the place: soft grey hall, book-lined library and sweeping Shelburne Bar and Restaurant, made for elegant but informal dinners. Stay here – within 2,000 acres of Capability Brown parkland – and enjoy one of the finest championship, allweather golf courses in the South West.

Alternatively, take over the four-bedroom Queenwood Lodge, perfect for special occasions. Bowood House and Gardens, just a mile away from the hotel, has been home to the Lansdowne family since 1754. Tour the house and grounds and, in spring, don’t miss the rhododendrons. Alongside the hotel, enjoy a spot of lunch in the airy Clubhouse Brasserie, a spell in the spa and infinity pool, or 18 holes of golf. So much to do, in such a lovely place.

NAME TO KNOW... Head chef of the Shelburne, Ed Fortune. He recommends using sherry vinegar for seasoning meat sauces, slow cooking tomatoes or adding to fresh strawberries.

Doubles from £155 +44 (0)1249 822228; bowood.org

THE GAINSBOROUGH BATH SPA BATH

Recalling local 18th-century artist Thomas Gainsborough, Bath’s first new five-star hotel in 30 years opened in July 2015 in a ravishing Grade-II listed building. It is the only hotel in Britain to have access to natural hot springs.

An arresting design builds on the hotel’s Georgian features, sympathetically blending the traditional and the contemporary. In its stateof-the-art Spa Village, with Roman columns, a glass roof and replica mosaic, you can take to the waters in a sequence of three thermal pools of varying temperatures, be reinvigorated afterwards in the sauna or steam room, and take your pick of numerous treatments. Decorated in muted Georgian tones, the 99 alluring rooms and suites have every luxury imaginable, including baths in the Bath Spa rooms that let you choose between mains or mineral water.

In the sophisticated yet understated restaurant guests can enjoy outstanding, locally sourced food, inspired by fresh, seasonal ingredients.

NAME TO KNOW... Hotel manager Brian Benson, who is a fount of knowledge. Ask him for his top tips on what to see during your stay.

Doubles from £240 +44 (0)1225 358888; thegainsboroughbathspa.co.uk 62 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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THE WEST COUNTRY

THE GROSVENOR ARMS SHAFTESBURY, DORSET

In the picturesque market town of Shaftesbury, The Grosvenor Arms has been an inn since medieval times, originally a timberframed staging post, given a handsome facelift by the Grosvenor family in Georgian times and now revitalised by the Stay Original group.

Like its sister hotel, The Swan at Wedmore (see page 70), it is at the heart of its community, relaxed and buzzy, more ‘restaurant-withrooms’ than hotel. Downstairs, it has a countrychic dining room, convivial panelled bar and airy conservatory. In summer the courtyard is a sunny, romantic spot for eating and drinking. Dishes from executive chef Tom Blake’s kitchen are simple but inventive: try his signature slow-cooked shoulder of pork or one of the excellent wood-fired thin-crust pizzas. The 16 bedrooms are smart and stylish with large beds, top-quality linen and extras including Tassimo coffee machines. For those that can’t be without their beloved pooch, dogs are welcome in all the rooms.

NAME TO KNOW... General manager Elly Alexander, who is also a cocktail expert.

Ask her for a personal recommendation.

Doubles from £90 +44 (0)1747 850580; grosvenorarms.co.uk

HOWARD’S HOUSE TEFFONT EVIAS, WILTSHIRE

Built in 1623 from attractive mellow stone and tucked away in an unspoilt Wiltshire village deep in the Nadder Valley, Howard’s House blends into the landscape, reassuringly timeless and quintessentially English. A hotel since 1989, it offers an oasis of calm away from the bustle.

In the glorious flower-filled garden, protected by an old topiary hedge, and with a lovely terrace and croquet lawn, the only sounds you’re likely to hear are birdsong and the knock of mallet on ball. In the hands of Simon Greenwood and his team, Howard’s House is superbly run. The upgraded interior looks fresh and pleasing, and the nine comfortable bedrooms all sport fresh paint, floral fabrics and crisp white bedspreads.

One of the highlights of staying here is the food.

Head chef and co-owner Nick Wentworth uses only the finest, freshest seasonal ingredients, skilfully combining them to release their true flavours in delicate, imaginative dishes.

A hotel full of unpretentious charm.

NAME TO KNOW... Head chef Nick, whose meat and fish are not to be missed. You can also join him for a ‘foraging lunch’ to discover local edible treasures.

Doubles from £190 +44 (0)1722 716392; howardshousehotel.co.uk 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 63

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

LANGFORD FIVEHEAD LOWER SWELL, SOMERSET

Is this the perfect restaurant with rooms?

We think it comes pretty close: the food is divine, the rooms are amazing and, crucially, it feels like a home, albeit a magnificent preTudor manor house of a home, set in seven acres of glorious grounds. Remodelled in Arts and Crafts style, it numbers a Civil War Royalist, a famous harpsichord maker and a film director among its previous owners.

It is also tucked away in a fascinating, lesserknown part of the country: the Somerset Levels.

The six bedrooms are gorgeous and impeccably furnished with antiques, and with names that recall the colourful history of the house, such as Nathaniel Barnard (with a beautiful ceiling), Jessie de Mowbray and 10 July 1645. Olly and Rebecca Jackson offer the warmest of welcomes and Olly’s cooking is exceptional: delicate and full of flavour, using home-grown fruits, vegetables and herbs and local produce. In the morning, the secrets of this enigmatic part of the world await discovery.

NAME TO KNOW... Chef and owner Olly, who is warm, welcoming and happy to share his creative secrets.

Doubles from £195 +44 (0)1460 282020; langfordfivehead.co.uk

LITTLE BARWICK HOUSE YEOVIL, SOMERSET

White painted and early Georgian, with a Victorian addition, a huge cedar tree on the lawn and a working farm behind, Little Barwick House is a quiet delight. It’s one of those highly accomplished yet soothing and unpretentious small hotels, where stress levels fall back to zero and tired guests, once installed by the fire, perhaps with a G&T and the prospect of a bottle of Givry to go with dinner, are comforted, mollified and altogether pepped up. Tim Ford’s uncomplicated, highly enjoyable, locally renowned cooking (perhaps saddle of wild roe deer or Cornish red mullet with saffron sauce) is at the heart of the operation, matched by his wife Emma’s superb wine list, helpfully divided by taste. Their enjoyment in what they do, and the ease with which they do it, generates the calm, contented atmosphere. Friendly helpers wear their own clothes, aiding the feeling of being in a private, if beautifully orchestrated, home and the bedrooms are similarly domesticated and tranquil, with deliciously comfortable beds.

NAME TO KNOW... Emma. She will be full of ideas about which wine to have from a well-sourced and impressive list.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1935 423902; littlebarwick.co.uk 64 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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THE WEST COUNTRY

LUCKNAM PARK COLERNE, WILTSHIRE

At the head of a double avenue of 400 lime and beech trees, Lucknam Park is a countryhouse hotel in a league of its own. It occupies a mellow 17th-century mansion, with gracious reception rooms and stylish bedrooms, both in the house and former stables. It is impeccably run, with attentive yet discreet service. You’ll find Hywel Jones’ exceptional Michelin-starred cooking in his eponymous formal restaurant and the cool, contemporary brasserie, with open kitchen. Then there’s the spa, with sleek indoor/outdoor pool, sauna, salt room and separate Well-being House, an oasis of relaxation. And horses: an impressive, superbly run equestrian centre caters to all standards.

And, finally, there is the innovative Cookery School, where you can learn ‘Michelin-starred cookery at home’ among its many courses.

With facilities for children too, Lucknam is as good a choice for families as for romantic couples, groups of friends and celebrations.

NAME TO KNOW... Executive chef Hywel Jones, who has held a Michelin star at Lucknam Park for 12 consecutive years. Ask him how he creates his signature dishes.

Doubles from £305 +44 (0)1225 742777; lucknampark.co.uk

NO.15 GREAT PULTENEY BATH, SOMERSET

A fabulous, on-the-pulse new address from seasoned hoteliers Ian and Christa Taylor (see The Abbey Hotel, page 60). With a small spa and an informal café, it offers light dishes, afternoon tea and cocktails (each one described on a playing card, so you can knock back Negronis while playing Racing Demon) in both the ground floor Bar 15 and basement Cafe 15. But what really distinguishes No.15 is its quirky looks, magnificent attention to detail and engaging collections: kaleidoscopes, shells, snuff bottles, jewellery, chandeliers and much, much more. And check out the Ladies and Gents – fabulous. It’s all rather spicy for Bath, in a lighthearted and playful way. As for stately Great Pulteney Street, it’s one of the neoclassical wonders of the Georgian city. Bedrooms, many designed by Martin Hulbert (and others by the Taylors themselves), are fun and romantic, and Cafe 15, done up to resemble an old apothecary, is an engaging spot for breakfast.

NAME TO KNOW... Andrea, the trusty pair of hands in charge of food and drinks, who can mix you a tipple chosen from the eclectic and creative cocktail list.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1225 807015; no15greatpulteney.co.uk 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 65

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

NUMBER 38 CLIFTON BRISTOL

Having been brought up on Tresco in the Isles of Scilly and dedicated to the business of upmarket hospitality (see Hell Bay, page 45), brothers Adam and Michael Dorrien Smith are well placed to run a luxury guesthouse, and at Number 38, they do so with aplomb. The double-fronted Georgian townhouse stands on the edge of chic Clifton village with fabulous views over the Downs and the city. You enter straight into the elegant sitting room, where superb breakfasts and cream teas are served at tables in the huge bay windows, and sofas and armchairs are grouped around an open fire (there’s also a sun-trap terrace). The nine gorgeous bedrooms range through four floors, each with attractively panelled walls painted in soothing shades, all with panoramic park and city views. Two further suites are soon to be unveiled, plus an expanded lounge and library/meeting room, thanks to the recent purchase of the house next door.

NAME TO KNOW... Polly Bailey. Ask her anything, she’s an all-rounder and extremely helpful.

Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1179 466905; number38clifton.com

THE PIG – NEAR BATH PENSFORD, SOMERSET

This may be just one in the group of five rural-themed PIG hotels (see opposite and pages 50 and 87) but its 2014 advent broke new ground: a proper, grown-up, country-house hotel that has all the attributes (space, proportions, dreamy views), but none of the drawbacks (staid, pretentious, eye-wateringly expensive). It’s fun and glamorous, though it never loses sight of comfort.

‘THE PIG on steroids,’ says owner Robin Hutson.

Though not the price: the opposite of pumped up. Once again Judy Hutson created the look: Belgian tiles, quirky wallpaper, velvet curtains, oil paintings, chandeliers, plus a wonderfully louche private dining room, based on The Rolling Stones’ Beggars Banquet: ragamuffins feasting in a castle. As at all the PIGS, the kitchen garden is central and its abundant produce appears in the lovely conservatory. This is also a great venue for one of the PIGS’ fantastic Smoked and Uncut festivals, when you can take a room or glamp in a bell tent if the mood takes you.

NAME TO KNOW... The Mangalitsa pigs at the bottom of the garden. Their striking, long, curly hair and friendly welcome for visitors is just as enchanting for adults as it is children.

Doubles from £165 +44 (0)1761 490490; thepighotel.com 66 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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THE WEST COUNTRY

THE PIG – ON THE BEACH STUDLAND, DORSET

With its wacky profusion of turrets, gargoyles, stone casements and overlapping tiles on steep roofs, this enchanting 18th-century house will bring an instant smile to your face and thoughts of Hansel and Gretel. As for the views, you’ll be entranced, especially looking across the sheep-flecked fields and the sea to Old Harry Rocks. Built as a grand summer house, this Studland Bay delight is in the litter of PIG hotels’ (see opposite and pages 50 and 87) much-loved seaside branch and it positively brims with charm: the conservatory restaurant and walled kitchen garden, of course, but also the many original features; the quirkily different bedrooms, including ones fashioned from garden pavilions and, even, a shepherd’s hut; the happening outdoor bar with woodfired oven; the private dining room in a cute thatched hut, complete with its own ice cream cart; and the beach bags, mats, buckets and spades in every room. A thrilling, wildly popular hotel: for fun in the sun, look no further.

NAME TO KNOW... Head chef Andy Wright, who has access to the freshest local fish, which always features on his refreshing menu.

Doubles from £145 +44 (0)1929 450288; thepighotel.com

PLUMBER MANOR STURMINSTER NEWTON, DORSET

How do staff at Plumber Manor make their guests feel cosy? ‘Oh, that’s easy,’ says owner Richard Prideaux-Brune. ‘We settle them into squashy sofas around a roaring fire, which we light at 3pm every afternoon. The labrador falls asleep and we serve homemade shortbread and fruitcake for tea. We just tuck them up really.’ In the same family – one of the oldest in Dorset – since the 17th century, Plumber Manor is for anyone who loves places that are timeless, even faded, with portraits in gilded frames. Think of your favourite great aunt. She is tweedy and stout, set in her ways, a bit eccentric, and though opinionated, a softie at heart. As is Plumber Manor, one of this country’s most endearing and loved country-house hotels, with beautiful riverside gardens. Bedrooms are staunchly traditional, floral and homely, but the real joy here is the marvellous cooking of Brian Prideaux-Brune. Whatever you do, leave room for the pudding trolley.

NAME TO KNOW... June, who has been at Plumber Manor for 26 years and is a source of much knowledge in the local area.

Doubles from £160 +44 (0)1258 472507; plumbermanor.co.uk 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 67

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE RECTORY HOTEL CRUDWELL, WILTSHIRE

Just inside the Cotswolds, in a village that dates back to the Domesday book, The Rectory Hotel has always been a lovely place to stay. Now though, it’s a very special one. After sensitive and thoughtful refurbishment, it has just reopened. If you yearn for a place to stay that has all the attributes of a stylish hotel combined with the easy-going pleasures of staying in the gorgeous country-house home of a much-loved friend or relative, then it’s for you. Imagine a sitting room with log fire, bundles of newspapers and piles of glossy magazines, and a drawing room where guests meet for after-dinner drinks or settle down to watch a film together. In the elegant wood-panelled restaurant, facing the pretty garden, menus are old school, updated for modern tastes, unpretentiously presented.

The 18 bedrooms are simple but beautifully furnished, as is the whole house, and the owners’ own delightful pub, The Potting Shed, stands just across the road.

NAME TO KNOW... New general manager, Neil Fincham-Dukes. Ask him to recommend a good ramble such as the nearby ancient Roman Fosse Way. Doubles from £175 +44 (0)1666 577194; therectoryhotel.com

RED LION FREEHOUSE EAST CHISENBURY, WILTSHIRE

A quintessential English pub – à la mode.

The Red Lion continues on a roll, having launched its glamorous bedrooms and gained – and retained – a Michelin star in 2012. Best of all, it’s run with unpretentious warmth by its committed owners, Guy and Brittany Manning, plus a close knit team, rescue hens in the garden and Stowford the springer spaniel. Guy is the superb head chef, preparing wonderful dishes, often using garden produce – don’t miss local Wiltshire truffle season (Sept to Dec). Brittany (American: they met while both working in a New York restaurant) is a talented pastry chef and is responsible for Troutbeck, the converted bungalow along the lane containing five stunning bedrooms. They sport chic furnishings, bespoke beds and Egyptian cotton linens, each with a terrace overlooking the idyllic Wiltshire Avon, where you can fish for trout. Thatched and pretty as a picture, the Red Lion makes an exceptional bolthole in unspoilt countryside.

NAME TO KNOW... Long-standing restaurant manager Mike, with whom you can strike up a conversation about anything.

A guaranteed friend for life.

Doubles from £180 +44 (0)1980 671124; redlionfreehouse.com 68 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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THE WEST COUNTRY

THE ROYAL CRESCENT HOTEL & SPA BATH

In the heart of historic Bath, The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa combines heritage, fabulous service and meticulous attention to detail.

The 45 suites and rooms are among England’s most special places to stay, and John Wood the Younger’s classic and iconic Georgian terrace is magnificent. The majority of the rooms offer unrivalled views over the hotel’s one acre of secluded gardens or of the impressive lawn.

There’s a choice of not one but five afternoon teas, to be taken in either the gardens or The Dower House Restaurant. Alternatively, enjoy a beautifully creative cocktail in The Montagu Bar & Champagne Lounge. The recently renovated, Spa & Bath House is another atmospheric haven and, after a treatment, why not relax in the Taittinger Spa Garden with a glass of rosé and delicious lunch, think superfood salads and smoked salmon sandwiches. Bath deserves this hotel and this hotel deserves Bath.

NAME TO KNOW... Sommelier, Jean-Marc Leitao, who is a true connoisseur of fine wines and a real character. You won’t be disappointed with his wine choice.

Doubles from £330 +44 (0)1225 823333; royalcrescent.co.uk

SUMMER LODGE EVERSHOT, DORSET

Summer Lodge stands in Hardy country; indeed, Thomas Hardy himself, as a local architect, enlarged the 18th-century manor for the Earl of Ilchester in 1893. Today, the gracious house is filled with beautiful fabrics and a generous profusion of patterns and objects: never has a country hotel felt more like an elegant lady, coiffed and perfumed, about to go to the ball. As for the bedrooms – oh, the comfort – they lack for nothing: there are even fleece-covered hot water bottles to warm your bed. For connoisseurs of drink, it’s hard to beat.

Sommelier Eric Zwiebel’s cellar, noted for its energetic eclecticism, is stocked with well over 400 whiskies, armagnacs and cognacs, plus 1,500 wine bins. Steven Titman’s cooking squares up perfectly, and his tasting menu is delightful.

There are many reasons to choose Summer Lodge, but if you are planning a celebration, from four people to 70, then look no further: they orchestrate such occasions quite beautifully.

NAME TO KNOW... Cellar master and twice runner-up in the Best Sommelier in the World competition, Eric Zwiebel, who has an encyclopedic knowledge of wines.

Doubles from £215 +44 (0)1935 482000; summerlodgehotel.co.uk 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 69

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE SWAN WEDMORE, SOMERSET

A bustling pub at the heart of pretty Wedmore in the engrossing Somerset Levels. It began life in the early 1700s as a beer house, and a century later was given its present grand Georgian appearance and enlarged to include rooms, stables and coaching yard. Part of the award-winning portfolio from boutique hotel and pub brand, Stay Original and sister of The Grosvenor Arms (see page 63), the pub is a haven of easygoing comfort, with wood floors, leather sofas, woodburners, open fires, real ales and great food served all day.

Upstairs, the seven rooms elicit ‘oohs’ and ‘aahs’ for their striking good looks, generous beds and furniture and objects that include charming auction room finds. As for the food, it’s the Swan’s raison d’être: hearty country cooking just the way we like it from executive chef Tom Blake. Rare-breed pork from the village butcher is a specialty, but there’s much else on the menu to enjoy.

NAME TO KNOW... General manager Kirsty Schmidt, who knows all the best walks from the hotel doorstep through the atmospheric Levels.

Doubles from £75 +44 (0)1934 710337; theswanwedmore.com

THE SWAN HOTEL WELLS, SOMERSET

Hotels with memorable views are hardly lacking in Britain, but few can match the sight that greets you from The Swan Hotel in Wells. In England’s smallest cathedral city, the glorious 13th century west front of Wells Cathedral – almost as wide as it is high and encrusted with nearly 300 statues – directly faces the hotel, and if you stay in one of the front bedrooms, or best of all the huge and amazing Cathedral Suite, then the sight that greets you in the morning will stay long in your memory. In front of The Swan’s elegant Georgian façade, is the divine Swan Terrace, also with that view, open during summer for drinks and snacks. Another al fresco café, the Walled Garden, is tucked away at the back.

Inside, named after the extraordinary story (yours to discover) of the historic coaching inn is Restaurant 15c A.D, noted for its excellent seasonal menus, and 50 romantic, individually designed, luxurious bedrooms. A gem.

NAME TO KNOW... General manager, Mark Tobin, who has been at the hotel for over 20 years. What he doesn’t know about The Swan isn’t worth knowing.

Doubles from £148 +44 (0)1749 836300; swanhotelwells.co.uk 70 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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THE WEST COUNTRY

THE TALBOT INN MELLS, SOMERSET

The owners of excellent The Beckford Arms (see page 61), and third partner, Matt Greenlees, scored an immediate hit with their second atmospheric inn, this one in Mells, with its lovely old stone houses. The cobbled courtyard makes a charming entrance, backed by a succession of cosy dining areas – one a Map Room, another with roaring fire, another with a bar – a separate sitting room, fashioned from a 500-year-old barn, and the impressive Coach House Grill Room.

Here, at weekends, meat and fish are grilled on a huge open fire and served at long wooden tables. As for the eight bedrooms, they are both stylish and amazing value, with all the extra touches you would expect from The Beckford Arms, such as superb beds, rain showers and woolly hot water bottles. Explore the village and its exceptional church, full of poignant World War One memorials; enjoy excellent pub grub, from day-boat landed fish and chips to well-aged steaks; and sleep in utter peace. A gem.

NAME TO KNOW... Head barman Floyd.

Ask him what his tattoos symbolise. Or, better yet, get him to mix you a great cocktail or pull the perfect pint.

Doubles from £95 +44 (0)1373 812254; talbotinn.com

VILLA AT HENRIETTA PARK BATH

Like its sisters, the Abbey Hotel (see page 60) and No.15 Great Pulteney (see page 65), Villa is a breath of fresh air on the Bath hospitality scene. An impressive Victorian house on a peaceful road, it’s close to the centre yet with its own car park – gold dust in Bath.

Owners, Ian and Christa Taylor, have all the right instincts about what makes a successful boutique hotel. The decoration is light, bright, contemporary and occasionally quirky. There’s a predominance of grey and white in the 21 bedrooms, enlivened by touches of colour and each with one wall papered in a jazzy design.

The rooms are furnished with a happy mix of antique and modern pieces, huge, supremely comfortable beds and many have fabulous views. Feather-light duvets and Egyptian cotton bedlinen are hidden delights. A glass of complimentary Buck’s Fizz comes with breakfast, taken in an elegant room under the beady eye of Morris the stag, whose head adorns the wall above a wood-burning stove.

NAME TO KNOW... General manager Caroline Browning. She makes extraordinarily good cakes.

Doubles from £144 +44 (0)1225 466329; villahenriettapark.co.uk 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 71

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Furniture makers - Redefining bespoke Visit your nearest London showroom Chelsea 84 Fulham Road SW3 6HR T: 020 7584 5736 NEW Notting Hill 102 Westbourne Grove W2 5RU T: 020 7243 2315 Clackersbrook Farm Bromham Wiltshire SN15 2JJ T: 01380 859299 E-mail: enq@mccarronandco.com www.mccarronandco.com

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David Baker, ‘The New Forest’, Hampshire, England (Landscape Photographer of the Year – Your View 2012). milouvision.com

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Hampshire & the Isle of Wight With 2017 marking 200 years since the death of Jane Austen, Hampshire is alive with celebration, while the Isle of Wight offers an easy and delightful off-shore break

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS Avoid the crowds and the summer heat and get fit at the same time by taking part in the Isle of Wight’s annual walking festival each May. For those up for the challenge, you can walk round the whole island (72 miles) in 24 hours. New for 2017 is a running festival too, in June. visitisleofwight.co.uk

Two-hundred years ago saw the death of one of our greatest writers Jane Austen. Having spent most of her life in Hampshire, summer 2017 sees a series of celebrations of her life and work. There’s even a world premiere of a specially commissioned orchestral version of Jonathan Dove’s Mansfield Park at the new Grange Festival in September. janeausten200.co.uk

SPRING

SUMMER July 2017 sees the return of the Vineyards of Hampshire Wine Festival, a one-day knees-up on 23 July where you can taste fizz from seven wineries around the county. vineyardsof hampshire.co.uk

Four Seasons

Each autumn, the New Forest native breed ponies are rounded up on horseback for branding and worming. It’s fast, it’s furious and not a spectator sport but if you hear a load of hollering and the thunder of hooves, make a quick getaway.

From riots of rhodos and designer gin palaces to celebrations aplenty for Jane Austen

AUTUMN

Get into the real spirit of Keats’ Ode To Autumn by literally following in the poet’s footsteps on an easy two-mile walk that was his inspiration for his unforgettable ‘season of mist and mellow fruitfulness’, starting next to King Alfred’s statue in Winchester and taking in the Hospital of St Cross. visitwinchester.co.uk

You don’t need a sunny day to go back in time to 1545. In fact, a stormy, wintry day is much the best setting for a visit to the Mary Rose in Portsmouth, which sank that fateful year after 34 years’ service. This magnificent new museum will take you to a Tudor treasure trove and teach you a history lesson so much more exciting than one in the classroom. maryrose.org

WINTER

Gin bunnies and design aficionados, take note. What could be more warming than a tour and tasting around the Thomas Heatherwick-designed Bombay Sapphire Distillery at Laverstoke Mill, which produces around 25 million litres of gin a year.

Bottoms up! distillery. bombaysapphire.com

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK; © IWAN BAAN

See winter shake off its torpor and the year really come alive at Exbury Gardens, the vision of Lionel de Rothschild, who planted copious colourful rhododendrons and azaleas, which are best seen in May. exbury.co.uk

76 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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HAMPSHIRE & THE ISLE OF WIGHT

Wasabi grows rather like watercress

LIVE LIKE A LOCAL NICK’S GUIDE TO HAMPSHIRE

MODERN DINING Housed in a building in Winchester dating back to the 1700s, The Black Rat has a modern approach with its vegetable plot and its own forager. theblackrat.co.uk

Way Out Wasabi

SUSHI

Nick Russell runs Hampshire’s The Wasabi Company, Europe’s only commercial growers of the fiery root Nick Russell

What is Wasabi? Wasabi is a member of the brassica family, which includes cabbages, horseradish and mustard.

Its rhizome from the stem is grated to make a hot and pungent paste that is an essential condiment in Japanese food and its flowers can be used as garnish for various dishes, including sushi. In Japan, it grows wild along the river banks of the mountain streams.

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK

Why did you start growing Wasabi?

It was totally serendipitous. We’re part of The Watercress Company and, one day, a chef who was visiting us happened to say we should grow wasabi as it grows in the same way as watercress. And so we thought, why not? We started trialling in 2010 and had our first crop for sale in 2012.

Using fish from the local day boats, Kyoto Kitchen, in Winchester, specialises in sushi and sashimi dishes. kyotokitchen.co.uk

How difficult is it to grow Wasabi in Hampshire? Very challenging here and possibly

anywhere in Britain. It’s probably one of the hardest crops to grow. It doesn’t tolerate direct sunlight and the water flow should be modified according to the time of year as would happen in the wild. It took a lot of trials to recreate the right environment, temperature, humidity and so on.

We are always tweaking the process, it is amazingly complex.

What is your biggest triumph? We are the first – and I think still the only – commercial growers in Europe. The advantages are that we can have it out of the ground and at the doors of a Japanese restaurant within a day as opposed to flying it halfway round the world. And wasabi must be fresh and, for maximum strength, freshly grated, the ‘real stuff’ loses its pungency within 20 minutes. The wasabi you see in packets that lasts forever is actually a very small part of wasabi mixed with horseradish, mustard and colouring.

How do you use wasabi? I use it very simply. I grate a small amount over a steak or a piece of venison just before it is served. It adds a complexity The Wasabi Company of flavour, a sweetness and nuttiness also sells Japanese ingredients and a bit of heat all rolled into one. thewasabicompany.co.uk

OLD FAVOURITE Occupying a 600-year-old grade IIlisted medieval house that claims to be the oldest in Winchester, The Chesil Rectory is a relaxed, friendly restaurant run by a group of foodloving friends. chesilrectory.co.uk

FARM SHOP Danestream Farm Shop sells local producers from in and around the New Forest. With a bakery and butchers, check out the intense floral honey. danestreamfarmshop.co.uk

AFTERNOON TEA In summer, enjoy a ‘proper’ afternoon tea in The Montagu Arms’ charming secluded garden in Beaulieu. montaguarmshotel.co.uk

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When selecting courgettes, make sure you choose the freshest you can find, which will help to avoid the metallic flavour that can develop when they are stored. If you can find them, courgettes with their flowers still attached are great for this recipe. Finely shred the flowers and add them at the same time as the basil, allowing them to wilt just a little.

Slice the courgettes lengthways into manageable strips about 8mm thick.

INGREDIENTS Heat the butter and SERVES TWO olive oil in » 4 courgettes a large, heavy(preferably with based frying flowers attached) » 50g butter pan. Once the » 1 tbsp olive oil butter begins » Pinch of saffron to bubble strands » 2 tbsp water and foam, lay » Handful of basil leaves the courgette » Juice of ½ lemon strips in the » Sea salt and black pepper pan and cook over a medium heat for a few minutes until they start to brown.

Turn them over, season and continue to cook for a minute.

Add the saffron and water and cook for a couple of minutes longer, until the butter has taken on the golden colour of the saffron. Tear in the basil leaves, pour the lemon juice over the top and serve immediately with rice.

Buttered Up Treat courgettes with butter, say Jane Scotter and Harry Astley

COURGETTES IN SAFFRON AND BASIL BUTTER

It is hard to believe that 40 years ago, courgettes were hardly ever grown in Britain. Our vegetable gardens were stuffed with marrows and unless you had travelled abroad, you were unlikely ever to have eaten a courgette. We have visionary vegetable gardener Peter Barfoot from Hampshire to thank for their introduction – and we haven’t looked back since.

Harry Astley and Jane Scotter

Extracted from Fern Verrow: Recipes from the Farm Kitchen by Harry Astley and Jane Scotter (Quadrille, £25)

PHOTOS: TESSA TRAEGER

METHOD

78 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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HAMPSHIRE & THE ISLE OF WIGHT

CAREYS MANOR BROCKENHURST, HAMPSHIRE

When life’s cares start to pile up, escape to this New Forest bolthole for a weekend of spoiling and relaxation. It occupies a red brick Victorian manor in kempt gardens on the outskirts of Brockenhurst, and is the sister hotel of The Montagu Arms (see page 86). The welcoming reception room has oakpanelled walls and an open fire. The 77 large, comfortable bedrooms combine modern amenities with traditional country-house style, some with four-poster beds and some with their own patio. What really makes the hotel stand out is its award-winning Thai SenSpa, where you can be pampered with a mindboggling range of treatments, from a gentle mud wrap to a thorough detox. As for food, you are spoiled for choice with Cambium, refined yet relaxing and celebrating all that is best about New Forest produce; Zen Garden, serving delicious, authentic Thai food; and informal French bar and bistro Le Blaireau.

NAME TO KNOW... Head concierge Colin Parkes, who has worked at the hotel for over 30 years and has extensive local knowledge. Ask him about the best forest walks from the hotel.

Doubles from £189 +44 (0)1590 624467; careysmanor.com

CHEWTON GLEN NEW MILTON, HAMPSHIRE

One of the country’s finest hotels, Chewton Glen has seamlessly moved with the times since it opened over 50 years ago. The eight-bedroom house, where Captain Marryat wrote Children of the New Forest, has gradually expanded to become a 70-room family-friendly bastion of luxury, with gorgeous bedrooms, lavish spa, indoor and outdoor pools, tennis centre, nine-hole golf course, croquet lawn and children’s club. With an open format grill menu that ranges from light dishes to splendid silver trolleys bearing meats and cheeses, The Dining Room stretches across five delightful rooms. 2017 saw the opening, in association with James Martin, of The Kitchen, an informal restaurant and purpose-built cookery school within the 130-acre estate. Also in the grounds, the extraordinary, tranquil Treehouse Suites, built on stilts, appearing to float above their secluded valley. After breakfast, delivered through a hatch for maximum privacy, stroll through the woods to the Solent coast.

NAME TO KNOW... Darren Venables, estate manager. Ask him about what’s growing in the walled kitchen garden and about the new cookery school and eatery, The Kitchen.

Doubles from £325 +44 (0)1425 282212; chewtonglen.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 79

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

EAST END ARMS LYMINGTON, HAMPSHIRE

Welcome to the New Forest, 145 square miles of ancient heath and woodland, where ponies, donkeys, pigs, cattle and deer still freely roam and where the East End Arms makes the perfect affordable base. The owner is Dire Straits’ bass guitarist John Illsley.

When he bought the pub in the mid-1990s, he received a letter from the regulars: ‘Hands off our public bar’. ‘They wouldn’t even let me repair the hole in the ceiling and when we repainted, it had to be exactly the same colour. Fine by me.’ For a plain room with locals at the bar and real ales, turn right.

For some of the best food in the whole New Forest, in a charming dining room enlivened by monochrome photographs of musicians and celebrities that get everyone talking, turn left. For a comfy night, head upstairs to one of the five divine bedrooms. You’ll find crisply sheeted, king-size beds, Nespresso machines, Mulberry fabrics and walls decorated with John’s paintings. Breakfast is spot on.

NAME TO KNOW... Danielle. Ask her for the best walks in the area. There are many coastal and forest strolls to enjoy, all close to the pub.

Doubles from £110 +44 (0)1590 626223; eastendarms.co.uk

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL HAMPSHIRE DOGMERSFIELD, HAMPSHIRE

It’s hard to believe you are only an hour from London at the Four Seasons’ only UK country hotel. Set amid 500 acres of luscious green fields, you can watch the hotel’s horses frolicking in paddocks from the gorgeous, coolly sophisticated bedrooms in this 18th-century manor. It’s easy to lose yourself in the grounds, playing croquet, clay-pigeon shooting, fishing or canal boating, while children can be kept busy at the Kids’ Club, or even with an ‘own a pony’ experience.

A large, light-filled spa, offering Sodashi, Natura Bissé and Swiss Perfection therapies, occupies the original stable block, from which a glass-encased 20-metre pool extends. Service is exemplary, and the cuisine is everything you would expect from Four Seasons, whether cocktails in the bar, delicious cuisine in the restaurant, or tea in the newly refurbished library made with honey from their own bees. Sunday lunch is a highlight, an interactive Farmers’ Market feast featuring entirely local produce. Go on, treat yourself.

NAME TO KNOW... Manager of the hotel’s equestrian centre, Adrian Evans, who has worked around the world coaching international riders.

Doubles from £290 +44 (0)1252 853000; fourseasons.com/hampshire 80 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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HAMPSHIRE & THE ISLE OF WIGHT

THE GEORGE YARMOUTH, ISLE OF WIGHT

The location could not be more stunning: on the water’s edge between the castle and the pier in bustling Yarmouth. In the panelled hall hangs a portrait of Admiral Holmes, the island’s governor for whom the house was built in 1670. Isla’s Restaurant is noted for its fine cuisine, while the airy Conservatory has a distinctly Mediterranean feel and opens onto a waterfront lawn, perfect for summer dining. The 17 bedrooms are stylish and relaxing, with large fabulous beds, crisp white cotton linen, plump pillows and well-equipped bathrooms as well as designer furniture and charming touches – a sailboat, a bowl of shells, scented candles – that make all the difference.

Many have spectacular sea or harbour views and two have wide wooden terraces, from which you can soak up the view: a canon on a battlement, the charming pier (perfect for a stroll after dinner) and the Solent, stretching across to the Lymington River, with its needlelike forest of masts bunched in the distance.

NAME TO KNOW... Dame Dianne Thompson, proprietor and former CEO of Camelot. She’s passionate about the island and The George, and has a home in Yarmouth.

Doubles from £160 +44 (0)1983 760331; thegeorge.co.uk

THE HAMBROUGH VENTNOR, ISLE OF WIGHT

Nestled on a pretty street in the coastal town of Ventnor, The Hambrough benefits from both a village-feel location and fabulous sea views. This boutique island hotel boasts seven individually designed rooms, all are fresh, light and airy with splashes of colour, some with balconies looking across the English Channel. The Molton Brown smellies in the bathrooms and Nespresso coffee machines in the rooms are a nice touch. If you are after something more private then there is a cottage and a lovely coastal town house available to you, with original features but modern amenities. Although the restaurant is currently closed, the award-winning breakfasts are not to be missed and drinks in the gorgeous bar are a must, plus the small local restaurants are just a few minutes away. The small number of friendly staff gives a family-run feel, which adds to its charm, without compromising on service. A great place for a seaside escape.

NAME TO KNOW... General manager, Danielle Anderson, who has lived on the Isle of Wight all her life and has incredible local knowledge.

Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1983 856333; thehambrough.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 81

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

HANNAH’S WINCHESTER, HAMPSHIRE

Not many, if any, hotels are named after their owners, but then not many hoteliers are quite as much of a selling point as Hannah McIntyre. Not that she craves limelight – quite the opposite – but her youth (mid-twenties), warmth and enthusiasm do set the tone for her equally stunning guesthouse. Two things alone make it the current go-to address for this absorbing cathedral town, whether for visitors (she also serves afternoon teas to non-residents), bridal couples or honeymooners: it’s got wow factor and Hannah is committed to doing the finest possible job. In a former livery, then dancehall, a huge arched front door leads into a lofty, dramatic living space, complete with antique piano, sofas around a wood burner, bookshelves and honesty bar. The three exciting bedrooms have huge comfy beds and baths on mezzanines reached by almost vertical wooden steps. Hannah’s breakfasts are special and her B&B an unalloyed delight.

NAME TO KNOW... Hannah McIntyre, the 27- year-old friendly and welcoming owner, who does her utmost to ensure that her guests enjoy their stay down to the last detail.

Doubles from £185 +44 (0)1962 840623; hannahsbedandbreakfast.co.uk

HILLSIDE VENTNOR, ISLE OF WIGHT

‘We are wary of accolades,’ says Gert, the Danish owner of Hillside. ‘We prefer to give people happy surprises rather than expectations.

We know we are only as good as the last guest who left contented.’ The 12-bedroom, all-white Scandinavian guesthouse – with Danish designer furniture and CoBrA-inspired abstract paintings – offers breakfast, dinner and a wonderful night’s sleep. Hillside’s kitchen team is proud to offer a daily changing set menu of French cuisine with a Scandinavian twist inspired by home-grown produce from its walled garden together with island specialties. All the bedrooms, including the two apartments, are coolly contemporary, with colourful vintage Welsh wool throws.

Hillside’s past – it was the home of the poet John Sterling and visited by Thomas Carlyle, as well as Dickens – is charmingly displayed in photographs and documents on the walls of one of the lounges. A one-off delight, in a delightful place.

NAME TO KNOW... Or not in this case. Avoid the grumpy Danish owner, Gert, who comes armed with seriously bad Danish humour.

When he offers you Gammel Dansk at breakfast, look the other way!

Doubles from £156 +44 (0)1983 852271; hillsideventnor.co.uk 82 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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HAMPSHIRE & THE ISLE OF WIGHT

HOTEL TERRAVINA WOODLANDS, HAMPSHIRE

At the edge of the lovely New Forest, yet conveniently close to Southampton, TerraVina is a stylish boutique hotel in a fine red-brick Victorian building. It has 11 bedrooms, heated outdoor swimming pool and a massive wine cellar. Here, in the neat new brick vaults, the carefully labelled bins are central to the hotel’s raison d’être. It’s all about wine. Brainchild of Gerard Basset OBE (world-class sommelier and co-founder of Hotel du Vin), TerraVina has an outstanding, wide-reaching wine list and regularly hosts wine events. A relaxed, open kitchen produces California-style food that is both delicious and beautifully presented. From the distinctive staircase to the natural toiletries, Gerard and his wife, Nina, have furnished the interior with products made by local craftspeople. Standards are high throughout, but particularly in the handsome, reasonably priced bedrooms, many of which have walk-in showers, plus separate roll-top baths and secluded patios.

NAME TO KNOW... Gerard, the most titled sommelier in the world. Ask him about the extensive and carefully selected range of wines, beers and spirits sourced internationally.

Doubles from £160 +44 (0)2380 293784; hotelterravina.co.uk

LIME WOOD LYNDHURST, HAMPSHIRE

It’s all about attention to detail at this ravishing, deeply luxurious New Forest lair. Oak doors are thick; paint finishes lush; soft floor lights switch on as you walk into the bathroom from your quietly opulent bedroom; stylised sitting rooms melt one into another, pale lemon into lilac, into sage green, each with an open fire. In the sybaritic Herb House Spa, you can do yoga on the rooftop herb garden, take in the forest views from the massive sauna and eat inspired raw food in the Raw & Cured café. Lime Wood is also home to Hartnett Holder & Co. In a brilliant partnership with that most grounded of celebrity chefs, Angela Hartnett, and the hotel’s own Luke Holder, Italian-influenced forest dishes and sharing plates are served in gorgeous, warmly coloured, laid-back surroundings, centred on a sparkling circular bar. The glamour is there, but all the stiffness of formal dining has been swept away. It’s how we want to live today, and Lime Wood has captured the mood.

NAME TO KNOW... Cookery school chef, Iain Longhorn, who positively encourages a little bit of chaos and a lot of creation in his kitchen.

Doubles from £330 +44 (0)2380 287177; limewoodhotel.co.uk 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 83

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE LITTLE GLOSTER GURNARD, ISLE OF WIGHT

On a small bay overlooking the Solent, an outstanding restaurant with rooms run by islander Ben Cooke and his wife Holly with verve and passion. The name harks back to the prestigious, now closed, Gloster Hotel in nearby Cowes, owned by Ben’s British grandfather and Danish grandmother, fondly known to all as Mormor. Ben can be found managing all areas of the restaurant, kitchen and notable wine list. Head chef Jay Santiago, who has been with them since launching, produces excellent, unfussy dishes in an open kitchen within the simple, glass-encased dining room. Don’t miss the home-cured gravadlax, served with Danishstyle caviar. Holly, energetic and warm, is in charge of the many events held in this beautiful spot, as well as the office and three bedrooms.

A Scandinavian elegance defines the rooms and all, including the stunning Garden Suite with private terrace, huge bathroom and separate sitting room, have wonderful sea views.

NAME TO KNOW... Front of house manager Emma. Ask her about the wine list, developed by owner Ben. It boasts delicious varieties, almost all of which are organic.

Doubles from £115 +44 (0)1983 298776; thelittlegloster.com

THE MANOR AT SWAY SWAY, HAMPSHIRE

Three years ago, young hotelier Tim Holloway and his wife Edlyn decided to swap London for the peace and quiet of the New Forest: with happy results for anyone looking for an affordable yet stylish countryside bolthole. In the village of Sway, surrounded by open heath and woodland, they found The Manor, built in 1906. With the help of interior designer David Bentheim, they’ve given the solid brick house a stunning makeover, its 15 beautifully coloured bedrooms decorated with prints from Audubon’s The Birds of America, an open-plan restaurant and bar and a sitting room that daringly pairs William Morris fruit wallpaper with lime green furnishings and black and white check carpets to stunning effect. The food, elegant, fresh and seasonal, from a constantly changing menu, is excellent, as are the wines.

Best of all, the hotel overlooks five acres of sloping wooded grounds, surveyed from a splendid terrace, perfect for outdoor dining.

NAME TO KNOW... Marge Etheridge, who has been welcoming and assisting guests since 1991. Ask her for the best places to eat, walk or be entertained.

Doubles from £100 +44 (0)1590 682754; themanoratsway.com 84 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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HAMPSHIRE & THE ISLE OF WIGHT

THE MASTER BUILDER’S BEAULIEU, HAMPSHIRE

The Master Builder’s House is much more than just a hotel. Thriving and in its prime, this famous, romantically located hostelry fulfills many roles, for both visitors and locals alike. Its rustic bar with open fire is a natural meeting place for yachties, while the airy, pale green restaurant, with views over the Beaulieu River, makes a fine setting for informal dining, and there is a lovely, cleverly terraced garden, justifiably popular for summer lunches. This is the perfect estate inn, maintaining a close relationship with Lord Montagu’s Beaulieu fiefdom.

And the location is stunning: wake on a sunny morning in one of the charmingly quirky yet luxurious main house bedrooms and watch the river coming to life... it’s hard to think of a more captivating view. No problem, though, if you have a room in the Henry Adams wing: they are smartly decorated and seaside chic. After breakfast, take the riverside walk to charming Beaulieu.

NAME TO KNOW... Bar manager James, who knows everything there is to know about a good pint from local brewers in the New Forest.

Doubles from £99 +44 (0)1590 616253; themasterbuilders.co.uk

THE MILL AT GORDLETON LYMINGTON, HAMPSHIRE

Set between the charming Georgian sailing town of Lymington and the unspoilt open spaces of the New Forest, this immediately welcoming restaurant with rooms is full of hidden delights. A cosy sitting room with roaring fire, a bar and a spread of open-plan dining areas leads onto enchanting riverside terraces and gardens, so tucked away that a casual passerby would never guess they existed. The mill, the core of which is 400 years old, sits beside the wide and peaceful Avon water. Crossed by pretty bridges, the river flows alongside a wisteria-covered dining terrace and through delightful gardens, dotted with sculptures, that ramble into the distance. As for the modern British food, it is all homemade, from bread to ice cream, and very good. The eight bedrooms are as pretty and individual as the location demands. The Mill is now in the capable hands of the Upham Pub Company.

NAME TO KNOW... Henry in the reservations team, who can provide you with any information you need and arrange a multitude of delights on your behalf during your stay.

Doubles from £129 +44 (0)1590 682219; themillatgordleton.co.uk 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 85

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE MONTAGU ARMS BEAULIEU, HAMPSHIRE

With all the attributes of a traditional countryhouse hotel – roaring log fires, oak panelling, pretty gardens and warm, comfortable bedrooms, some stylishly contemporary, others charmingly traditional – which just so happens to be set in the heart of Beaulieu, the New Forest’s picturesque riverside village, The Montagu Arms makes an ideal base for a weekend away.

Browse the high street, visit the National Motor Museum, Beaulieu Abbey and the ruins of its Cistercian monastery, or take a riverside walk.

Back in the hotel, you’ll find a dark oak hall that’s contrasted by a light and stylish, cream-panelled sitting room, leading in turn to a light-filled conservatory and the flower-filled gardens outside. In the recently elegantly redecorated Terrace restaurant, a treat is in store: the cuisine – elegant and unusual yet unpretentious – of chef Matthew Tomkinson. The excellent sommelier recommends imaginative and delicious wines.

NAME TO KNOW... Head gardener Barry Daniel, who is passionate about wildlife.

You’ll often see him hand-feeding the robins that regularly visit the garden. Ask him how to grow seasonal fruit and vegetables.

Doubles from £149 +44 (0)1590 624467; montaguarmshotel.co.uk

THE PEAT SPADE INN LONGSTOCK, NR STOCKBRIDGE, HAMPSHIRE

One of the country’s best fishing inns, The Peat Spade is as good for shooting parties as it is for idyllic, bolthole weekend getaways. It’s a favourite meeting place for enjoying good food and ales from Hampshire’s Upham brewery, the inn’s impressive owners. The spacious dining area is furnished with wooden tables and a pretty assortment of chairs. A charming extension, opening on to the garden, with flagstone floor and chandelier, creates yet more space for the much-admired food. The inn is solid and reassuring, standing in the dreamy valley of the Test with its footbridges and slowmoving chalk streams. It has been welcoming fly fishermen since the 19th century, with ghillies and managers on hand to chat, advise and make arrangements. The eight stylish bedrooms in the main house and the old peat house behind are named after members of a Victorian fraternity of fly fishermen, the Mayfly Mess, a nostalgic photograph of whom hangs in the private dining room.

NAME TO KNOW... General managers Liza and Richard. Ask them about the local surroundings and where to visit.

Doubles from £79 +44 (0)1264 810612; peatspadeinn.co.uk 86 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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HAMPSHIRE & THE ISLE OF WIGHT

THE PIG BROCKENHURST, HAMPSHIRE

Many hotels boast kitchen gardens, but few are as central to the operation as that of THE PIG. Here, it’s an imaginative edible paradise from where the chefs take much of their produce, the rest sourced within 25 miles. From this abundant patch comes the inspiration for THE PIG itself – and, indeed, the four further PIG hotels now in the rustic Home Grown Hotels sty (see below and pages 50, 66 and 67) – seductive and shabby chic, with a palette of soft greens and chalky greys, a wonderful Victorian-style conservatory dining room; a glamorous bar; billiard table; and outdoor courtyard. Bedrooms are calm, countrified and deeply comfortable, including fun family rooms with bunk beds for the children. The handsome Georgian shooting lodge stands in a clearing in the New Forest, with walking, foraging, tennis and spa treatments on offer. The walled garden leads to a lovely lily pond and a wooden potting shed. Inside? You will be charmed. Oh, and there are pigs too.

NAME TO KNOW... Ollie Hutson, who oversees all THE PIG gardens. He helps to ensure that every dish served in each hotel is touched by the kitchen garden.

Doubles from £175 +44 (0)1590 622354; thepighotel.com

THE PIG – IN THE WALL SOUTHAMPTON, HAMPSHIRE

If the PIG (see above) is the country mouse, then this is its town mouse cousin, just 20 minutes away in Southampton, charmingly embraced by the city’s defensive walls. It’s gorgeous, affordable and makes a great choice for a hassle-free short break, easily reached by train. Hole up in one of its faultless shabby chic bedrooms (retro radios, telephones and alarm clocks, rain showers and roll-top baths, superb beds, well-stocked fridge ‘larders’, bare floorboards, painted wood ceilings, pretty fabrics). In the morning, linger over pastries, cold meats, boil-your-own eggs and the papers in the Edwardian country-style kitchen/parlour, and later graze from the inviting deli counter (which acts as reception too) for lunch. Perhaps do some damage in the West Quay shopping centre and then, in the evening, jump into the hotel’s Land Rover for a free ride to dinner at THE PIG. Back at The Wall for the night, you’ll be as happy as pigs in – er – farmyard manure.

NAME TO KNOW... Jamie Banner, who is director of THE PIG – In the Wall, and has grown with the PIG group. He has gone from barman to hotel director in just a few years.

Doubles from £135 +44 (0)2380 636900; thepighotel.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 87

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE ROYAL VENTNOR, ISLE OF WIGHT

The seaside resort of Ventnor is a delightful time warp with a host of off-beat arty shops and its own subtropical microclimate.

The Royal, built in 1832 overlooking the Esplanade, complements it to perfection, with solidly traditional values and service but updated amenities and rooms. It is one of the only establishments in the country to have been listed in every Michelin Guide since its first publication in 1911, and has held two AA rosettes for its excellent food since 1998. As well as a refined, formal dining room, there’s a sleek, relaxed bar and brasserie, an airy conservatory and the Geranium Terrace, an original wroughtiron veranda backed by a riot of pink climbing mountain flowers. But for the best al fresco views, head for the clifftop Riviera Terrace. The nearby beach, heated outdoor pool and daily high tea make this a great choice for families.

NAME TO KNOW... Head of reception Donna Reed, who has been with the hotel for over 20 years. Ask her anything, including why you should book direct.

Doubles from £195 +44 (0)1983 852186; royalhoteliow.co.uk

SEAVIEW SEAVIEW, ISLE OF WIGHT

Whereas charming seaside Seaview village has remained unchanged for decades, the longestablished Seaview Hotel – stylish and relaxed – has evolved with the times. There are endearing echoes of the past in both the Pump Room, with traditional wood panelling and roaring log fire, and the Naval Bar, modelled on a wardroom and filled with memorabilia, while the Restaurant has a contemporary, if nautical, feel.

Here the affordable, creative cooking of Bruce Theobald has won a Michelin Bib Gourmand.

The lounge now occupies the front of the hotel and displays a collection of razzle-dazzle camouflage used in both wars to disguise craft.

As well as the13 neat, pretty bedrooms and one apartment in the main house, there are seven in a designer annexe, The Modern, immaculately furnished and with state-of-the-art equipment.

There are also five large suites in the lovely neighbouring Old Bank, plus self-catered Myrtle Cottage. Dogs are particularly welcome.

NAME TO KNOW... Breakfast waitress for over 20 years, Philippa Meeres, who knows everything about Seaview’s history and the local arts scene.

Doubles from £95 +44 (0)1983 612711; seaviewhotel.co.uk 88 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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HAMPSHIRE & THE ISLE OF WIGHT

THE THOMAS LORD WEST MEON, HAMPSHIRE

It’s all change at The Thomas Lord, titled after the man who gave his name to Lord’s Cricket Ground. This much-loved pub and restaurant in the picture-postcard village of West Meon is now offering comfortable, contemporary accommodation in five luxury cabins. Along with The Station House in Haslemere (see page 109), this is one of The Upham Group’s traditional but reinvigorated country inns at the heart of their Southern English communities. You feel the warmth the moment you cross the threshold into the delightful bar, with its wooden and leather furniture, half-panelled walls, cosy log fire and range of excellent ales. In the dining room, done out in similarly rustic style, food is a highlight.

In summer, fresh pizzas are cooked in an outdoor oven and you can eat in the lovely, large garden whenever it’s warm enough.

Locals tend to the kitchen garden, which adds to the friendly village-pub atmosphere.

NAME TO KNOW... General manager, Tabitha Money, who is the face of the business. Ask her about the history of the pub and the local scenic walking routes.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1730 829244; thethomaslord.co.uk

THE WELLINGTON ARMS BAUGHURST, HAMPSHIRE

There’s something pretty special about ‘The Welly’. It’s a real foodies’ pub, owned and run with great charm by Simon Page (front of house) and Jason King (award-winning chef).

Set in countryside on the Hampshire/Berkshire border, it has a burgeoning kitchen garden and a field where hens, bees, sheep and pigs are kept. The dining room – there are just 12 highly prized tables – is delightfully informal. Here, Jason uses home-grown ingredients in most of his carefully prepared, country-style dishes.

There are four bedrooms: the Apartment is a one-bedroom suite above the pub. Then, tucked away in a converted 17th-century, oakframed hay store are two striking guest rooms, all exposed brickwork and timber beams, and outside a green oak barn, the Cart House.

They have all the extras from rain showers with Aesop products to Nespresso coffee machines and excellent beds, dressed in topquality linen. Who could ask for more?

NAME TO KNOW... The gardener, Angela, who will be able to tell you anything you could possibly want to know about the beautiful grounds.

Doubles from £110 +44 (0)1189 820110; thewellingtonarms.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 89

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The Home Counties It’s amazing where a quick trip out of London can take you – whether it’s Kent, Sussex, Berkshire or Buckinghamshire, you’ll find rural gems aplenty

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Steve Barker, ‘Field of Bales’, South Downs, West Sussex, England (Landscape Photographer of the Year – Classic View 2008)

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS Count counties from Leith Hill Tower in Dorking on a clear morning. It’s the highest point in south-east England, which means you might even spot a boat on the Channel.

Party like Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild at Waddesdon Manor, Buckinghamshire. Every June, foodies flock to the stately home for Feast festival, a celebration of artisan food and drink. waddesdon.org.uk

SUMMER

SPRING

Tower over Bekonscot in Beaconsfield, the oldest original model village in the world and a riot of colour during the summer.

Between April and May, follow the woodland path on the Ashridge Estate in Hertfordshire, admiring the springtime carpet of bluebells as you go.

Get fired up for Sussex bonfire season by following torch-lit processions along Eastbourne seafront. Then make the trip to Lewes on 5 November for tar barrel rolling, marching bands and topical effigies.

Make for Margate and gaze out across the same beach, sea and skies that inspired more than 100 of JMW Turner’s works from the seafront gallery sharing the painter’s name. turnercontemporary.org

Four Seasons

From Turner’s skies to blankets of bluebells, along with model villages and views spreading for miles

AUTUMN

Blow away the holiday cobwebs with an invigorating walk around Bedgebury National Pinetum and Forest in Kent. bedgebury pinetum.org.uk

WINTER

Fall in love with Hever Castle in Kent (the setting of Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn’s courtship), best experienced in the autumn sun when the Boston Ivy adorning the front of the castle turns a vivid shade of red. hevercastle.co.uk

Retreat to the warmth of the artist’s studio at West Dean College and let the surrounding landscape inspire you on one of the college’s weekend creative courses. westdean.org.uk

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK; STORYTRAVELERS; VISIT ENGLAND

Pick up a book at the Charleston Festival, held each May at the Bloomsbury Group’s spiritual home. charleston.org.uk

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THE HOME COUNTIES

Ridgeview vineyard

LIVE LIKE A LOCAL SIMON’S TOASTS OF THE TOWN

PUB The Bull at Ditchling has won awards for its locally sourced food and its garden has great views over the South Downs. thebullditchling.com

Brit Pop Simon Roberts is beating Champagne at its own game at Ridgeview Wine Estate

Simon Roberts

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK; © SPRINGS’ SMOKERY

How did the vineyard start? My parents

BAKERY

How has the business developed? We’re a family business. My father is no longer with us but my sister Tamara is the CEO and I am the wine-maker. We now produce around 200,000 bottles a year.

What kind of wine do you make? We have different sparkling wines made from different blends – Bloomsbury is around 60 per cent chardonnay with a blend of pinot noir and pinot meunier, whereas Cavendish is one third chardonnay and two-thirds pinot noir. We produce a rosé – Fitzrovia – and a 100 per cent single estate chardonnay.

All our wines are made according to the traditional Champagne method.

bought the land in 1995. It was my father’s idea, he loved champagne and loved England and decided to combine the two. Way back What has been your biggest challenge? then, there was only one other vineyard Making wine in a cool climate is but it wasn’t rocket science to figure out never easy. A late frost can damage that the nearest wine growing region was the new growth on the vines. Then Champagne and that we had a similar variable weather during the flowering chalky soil and climate – so chances season can cause problems and, were it would work. How right he was, of course, we need warmth and recently even Taittinger has bought sunshine for the grapes to ripen. land nearby. My father then took But in a good year, we get such himself off to Plumpton College full and interesting flavours and to study wine-making, planted a wonderful balance of acidity a mixture of pinot noir, pinot meunier that it makes it all worthwhile and chardonnay vines – the classic What has been your greatest triumph? grape varieties for champagne – and set In 2010 we were awarded the best Bloomsbury uses around 60 per cent about it. The first wine was released in sparkling wine in the world by chardonnay 2000. There were around 20,000 bottles.

Decanter magazine. ridgeview.co.uk

Flint Owl Bakery bakes slow fermented sourdoughs, various cakes and pastries and runs a charming café in Lewes. flintowlbakery.com

PRODUCE Beal’s Farm Charcuterie specialise in the production of salami, coppa, even lardo made from pork from the mangalitza pig, a heritage rare breed. bealsfarmcharcuterie.com

BREWERY Bedlam Brewery, based near Brighton, brews four different cask beers on draft or by the bottle, powered by solar energy. bedlambrewery.co.uk

SMOKERY Springs’ Smokery smokes a range of fish and poultry over oak sourced from the forests around Arundel for a distinctive flavour. springssmokedsalmon.co.uk

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THE HOME COUNTIES

INGREDIENTS SERVES FOUR

Boozy Berries

METHOD

Melt the butter in a large frying pan, then add the cherries and any juices that came out of them when you were pitting them. Toss the cherries around in the pan over a medium heat, adding the sugar and stirring gently to help it dissolve. Next add the lemon juice. Keep tossing the cherries and cooking until they have a thickish syrup around them.

Add the grappa (you can now flambé the cherries if you want, but it’s not necessary if you’d rather not) and you’re done. Take to the table and serve cold ice cream with the hot cherries.

Diana Henry’s last-minute pud is best made with fat, juicy dark cherries found in Kentish orchards

HOT CHERRIES WITH GRAPPA AND ICE CREAM

This is a last-minute pudding and some people hate serving those – they like to have everything sorted before their friends arrive – but it takes very little time and there’s something lovely about taking warm cherries to the table in a frying pan. I ate this in a restaurant in Norcia in Umbria. I travelled most of the day to get there because Claudia Roden, writing in The Observer, had recommended it. The owners had no idea that Claudia had recommended them and were so thrilled that they thanked us with more grappa than we could drink.

25g unsalted butter 450g pitted cherries 100g caster sugar Juice of 1/2 lemon 3–4 tbsp grappa Vanilla ice cream, to serve

Diana Henry

Extracted from Simple: Effortless Food, Big Flavours by Diana Henry (Mitchell Beazley, £25)

PHOTOS: LAURA EDWARDS; CHRIS TERRY

» » » » » »

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CATCHPOLE & RYE KENT ENGLAND

EXCLUSIVE

LUXURY

BATHROOMS

L O N D O N • T U N B R I D G E W ELL S • A S H F O R D

T. 020 7351 0940

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www.catchpoleandrye.com

23/05/2017 12:58

C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

ALBION HOUSE RAMSGATE, KENT

The advent of Albion House is a story of triumph over adversity, and hope over experience – or rather inexperience. Arguably the most beautiful of all of Ramsgate’s unsurpassed collection of Georgian and Regency buildings, it was rescued from neglect and is now a successful business run by Ben and Emma Irvine, who created a boutique hotel and restaurant from its shell.

None had any experience of hotel-keeping but sheer hard work, determination, good humour and bravery have seen them through. Albion House, which was the subject of an episode of Alex Polizzi’s The Hotel Inspector while it was being transformed, is now the stand-out place to stay in this fascinating yet often overlooked town, and a perfect weekend getaway. There’s a huge, stylish bar, characterful restaurant, Townley’s, serving uncomplicated seasonal, locally sourced dishes, and elegant bedrooms, some with breathtaking views across the Royal Harbour. A triumph for Ben and Emma and a great address for us.

NAME TO KNOW... French head waiter, Yannick, a man with 25 years’ experience in both Paris and London. Ask him about cheese and wine pairings.

Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1843 606630; albionhouseramsgate.co.uk

ARTIST RESIDENCE BRIGHTON, EAST SUSSEX

Justin and Charlie (real name Charlotte) Salisbury met as students, and when Justin’s mum – who had bought a run-down Brighton guesthouse – was seriously injured in an accident before she had renovated it, 20-yearold Justin stepped in. Having no idea how to tackle the redecoration, he filled the listed town house with artists and gave them a free hand.

The first Artist Residence, successful and buzzy, was born, soon to be joined by three more in Penzance (see page 41), Pimlico (see page 118) and Oxford (see opposite). This one has sea views and retro-style bedrooms, from tiny crash pads to a huge suite, with bespoke or vintage furniture, hand-picked artwork, entertaining murals and excellent beds. Artists Maria Rivans, Charlie Anderson, Fox Fisher and Jessica Albarn have designed four fabulous new rooms this year. There’s the sparky Cocktail Shack for drinks, easy-going Set Café for snacks and The Set Restaurant for Dan Kenny and Semone Bonner’s stunning seasonal tasting menus.

NAME TO KNOW... The Set’s chefs, Dan and ‘Bonner’, who you should ask how to make their famous cereal milk panna cotta.

Doubles from £95 +44 (0)1273 324302; artistresidencebrighton.co.uk 96 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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ARTIST RESIDENCE SOUTH LEIGH, OXFORDSHIRE

Something different. Different, that is, for the burgeoning Artist Residence group of funky, art-themed hotels that have sprung up in Brighton (see opposite), Penzance (see page 41) and Pimlico (see page 118), courtesy of its enterprising owners Justin and Charlie (Charlotte) Salisbury. Now this energetic couple have headed for leafy Oxfordshire and the former Mason Arms, stamping it with their inimitable look. There are five stunning bedrooms upstairs, and another seven planned for within the stables and outbuildings. Original features have been retained and restored; auction houses and reclamation yards scoured; modern art set against William Morris wallpaper. The restaurant features art by the Connor Brothers and their fictional character Mr Hanbury (a nod to the Mason Arms’ famously eccentric landlord Mr Stonhill), while the kitchen is run by rising star Leon Smith. It’s early days, but you can be sure that Justin and Charlie have another hit on their hands, richly deserved.

NAME TO KNOW... Leon, the head chef. Chat to him about his love of foraging and cooking with the best locally sourced ingredients.

Doubles from £130 +44 (0)203 1981066; artistresidenceoxford.co.uk

BAILIFFSCOURT CLIMPING, WEST SUSSEX

A stroll across meadows from the secluded Climping beach, Bailiffscourt is an engaging, medieval-style house created in the 1920s by Walter Guinness, later Lord Moyne, and his wife Evelyn. Both the traditional bedrooms in the house – some with four posters – and the series of interconnecting sitting rooms, stuffed with tapestries, oak chests and Knole sofas, feel charmingly authentic. Others among the 39 bedrooms, ranging from medieval to contemporary in style, are spread among a series of charming houses and cottages in the parkland; the newest, in the Moat House and The Oaks, stand beside the old moat, overlooking the fields beyond. Lawns are dotted with toy-town medieval outbuildings, flowers, shrubs and peacocks, and there’s an airy spa, with indoor and outdoor pools. The name, Bailiffscourt, recalls the monk who was sent over by the Abbess of Séez in Normandy to act as bailiff and watch over the 13th-century chapel, which still stands in the grounds today.

NAME TO KNOW... Helen, one of the gardeners, who will tell you all about the grounds and their newest addition – two delightful peacocks.

Doubles from £265 +44 (0)1903 723511; hshotels.co.uk 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 97

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE BARROW HOUSE EGERTON, KENT

The Milk House (see page 105) was an instant hit and now its owners Sarah and Dane are at it again. In Egerton, with a fine 13thcentury church and thriving community spirit, they have created a new kind of social hub at the old George Inn and now the pretty weatherboard 1576 building constructed of timbers from sailing ships, traditional cob and straw plaster, has an interior that’s stylish and airy, with walls painted in pretty, chalky shades of blue and a stone floor. There’s a large, elegant dining room, leaving the L-shaped bar area for drinking and relaxing in front of open fires: calming and pleasing to the eye. Dane’s food is, as at the Milk House, the sort you want to tuck in to, with sharing plates on the varied menu. Upstairs there are three attractive bedrooms whose names, like the new name of the old inn, recall the ancient bowl barrow that rises from a field nearby.

NAME TO KNOW... Dane Allchorne, owner and head chef, who was born in New Zealand and is trained in classical French cuisine. Ask him about his travels (he has cooked all over the world) or local Kentish produce.

Doubles from £80 +44 (0)1233 756599; thebarrowhouse.co.uk

BEAVERBROOK LEATHERHEAD, SURREY

As we go to press, Britain’s most exciting new country-house hotel is about to fling open its stately doors. We’ve been, we’ve seen, and it’s fabulous. The former home and estate of newspaper magnate Lord Beaverbrook, Cherkley Court will have weekenders falling over themselves to stay and revel in the stylish yet relaxed interiors. Top notch food, a gorgeous sybaritic spa and formal gardens that lead to the wider estate incorporating extensive woodland and a magical treehouse overseen by Sharky & George’s kid’s club. Meanwhile, the separate Garden House, former home of Lady Beaverbrook after the death of her husband in 1964, has been open for some months, with bar, restaurant (great food, English with an Italian twist, from chef Kaz Suzuki), cookery school and 11 oh-so-pretty bedrooms. The brick and flint house mixes cosy cottage charm with understated boutique hotel luxury and heralds great things to come from the grand châteaustyle main house. All this, so close to London.

NAME TO KNOW... Head chef, Kaz Suzuki.

Don’t be shy about popping in to the kitchen to ask for a personal favourite dish.

Doubles from £280 +44 (0)1372 571300; beaverbrook.co.uk 98 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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THE CAT INN WEST HOATHLY, WEST SUSSEX

A spell at The Cat will leave you purring with contentment. With its regulars chatting at the bar, its blazing fire in the huge inglenook, its hops, pewter and a mix of airy and cosy dining areas, this early 16th-century timberframed village inn exudes character and bonhomie. One of our greatest gastropubs, its landlord Andrew Russell, previously GM at nearby Gravetye Manor (see page 102), mixes professionalism with a natural flair for people. As for the food, from chef Alex Jacquemin, there’s no trumpeting and no fuss and, as a result, its superb quality is all the more delightful. ‘I recommend the pie and chips,’ says Andrew. And what a pie. Leave space for a homemade pud too. Upstairs, there are four attractive, luxurious, well-equipped bedrooms, one very large, another with a view of the pretty church. In the morning, after a sophisticated breakfast worthy of Gravetye, follow the path through the churchyard for a spectacular view across the valley.

NAME TO KNOW... Owner Andrew Russell, who can suggest beers to suit all tastes.

His personal favourite is Harvey’s.

Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1342 810369; catinn.co.uk

CLIVEDEN HOUSE TAPLOW, BERKSHIRE

Few, if any, grand country house hotels can match Cliveden. Set high above the Thames, in 376 acres of National Trust-owned land, the stately home was built in 1666 for the second Duke of Buckingham and became the home of the Astor family in 1893. Today, Cliveden is under the same ownership as Chewton Glen (see page 79), and a sympathetic programme of restoration and redecoration has left it looking quite ravishing.

Its 48 bedrooms range from spectacular suites to deluxe doubles and include four with their own hot tubs. There’s even the three bedroom Spring Cottage, which is perfect for families. As for the food, it’s a choice of gourmet dishes in the amazing André Garrett Restaurant or informal ones in the charming former stables, now the Astor Grill, both courtesy of talented chef André Garrett. And now – drum roll – there’s a fabulous new spa. Cliveden was built for entertaining and no one, from Churchill to Chaplin, could resist an invitation – and nor should you.

NAME TO KNOW... André Garrett, head chef of both the André Garrett Restaurant and The Astor Grill. Ask him what inspires his dishes, he is very passionate about seasonal produce.

Doubles from £445 +44 (0)1628 668561; clivedenhouse.co.uk 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 99

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

CRAB & LOBSTER SIDLESHAM, WEST SUSSEX

A place for all seasons, this delightful hideaway and sibling of Halfway Bridge (see page 103) is stunningly located at Sidlesham Quay, a grassy expanse on the banks of Pagham Harbour nature reserve once occupied by a tidal mill. Its views stretch to the distant sea across salt marsh and woodland with a tracery of creeks. The four attractive, comfortable bedrooms in the renovated 16th-century pub, plus the two-bedroom Crab Cottage next door, are all decorated with stylish simplicity in restful shades. In the top-floor eyrie, there are binoculars for a closer look at that remarkable view, and plenty of extras in all the rooms, from fridges to fresh flowers. Downstairs, you’ll find slate floors, cream painted and bare brick walls, smart contemporary furniture and an open fire. And dishes that are just right for the location: perhaps spiced monkfish loin or sweet potato and black olive gnocchi and a crisp white wine – perfect.

NAME TO KNOW... Helen Totton, the general manager of ten years, who knows everything about the menu and wine list.

Doubles from £175 +44 (0)1243 641233; crab-lobster.co.uk

FIVE BELLS INN BRABOURNE, KENT

There was a time when the remote hillside location at the Five Bells Inn meant that Brabourne village locals were joined only by pilgrims, who stumbled across the beautiful 16th-century country inn seeking food and a bed for the night. Now the inn has been renovated in gorgeous modern-rustic style by local company Ramblinns and offers a warm welcome to locals seeking great locally sourced food and drink from the extensive menu, as well as good company. Unique touches abound across the playfully upcycled interiors designed by owner John Rogers.

Guests can choose one of the four sumptuous suites, each named after Kentish hops and grapes, from the copper-bathed luxury of Ortega to the bohemian artisan’s loft that is Fuggle, all with open fires or woodburners.

The Five Bells Inn is located in a glorious rural setting from which to enjoy the tranquility of Kent’s North Downs or explore the many delights of the local area.

NAME TO KNOW... Inn-keeper Wentzel Coetzer, who can tell you all about the many fantastic walks in the area such as the Pilgrims’ Way. Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1303 813334; fivebellsinnbrabourne.com 100 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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THE GALLIVANT RYE, EAST SUSSEX

Don’t you love the name? The dictionary informs us that ‘to gallivant’ is to ‘wander about, seeking pleasure’ and indeed, this place started life in the 1960s as the Blue Dolphin Motel, when it no doubt saw its fair share of gallivants and their girls. It’s still immediately identifiable as a motel, (some of California’s coolest hotels have been fashioned from them, so why not here?), but in its current incarnation, it’s also chic, seaside fresh, buzzy and fun. The relaxed and airy restaurant, with a Nordic/New England vibe, takes centre stage and here the modern British cooking ticks all the boxes. As for the 20 bedrooms, they are calm, cute havens with wonderful beds dressed with the finest linens, and for yet more relaxation, there’s the Beach Hut treatment room in the garden. Best of all, that extraordinary expanse of dunes and beach, Camber Sands, is directly over the road, and charming Rye is five minutes by car.

NAME TO KNOW... Receptionist Katie, who is an expert in all things sporty – if you’re a keen tennis player, she may even challenge you to a set. For something more gentle, however, there is early morning beach yoga.

Doubles from £95 +44 (0)1797 225057; thegallivant.co.uk

THE GOODWOOD HOTEL CHICHESTER, WEST SUSSEX

Stay here, and everything that Goodwood has to offer is at your fingertips. Most famous for its Glorious Goodwood and Revival festivals, the hugely impressive sporting estate has many different elements, and guests of The Goodwood Hotel effectively become members of each one of them. Thus, the superb health club and Waterbeach spa is yours; also elegant private members’ club, The Kennels; and the membership-only, championship Downs golf course, with its divine retro buggies, complete with ice box for that all-important bottle of champagne. But there’s more: the pay-andplay Park golf course and Goodwood House itself. Plus, 19 days of racing a year at the prettiest of racecourses, perched on its ridge; the motor racing circuit where you can take a spin; and the historic aerodrome where you can fly a Cessna. And the hotel?

Sleek and sophisticated with characterful bedrooms and high standards of cooking in the light and airy restaurants.

NAME TO KNOW... Executive chef Darron Bunn who created the Farmer, Butcher, Chef restaurant.

Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1243 775537; goodwood.com/hotel 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 101

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

GRAVETYE MANOR WEST HOATHLY, WEST SUSSEX

One of England’s greatest country-house hotels. A classic of its kind since 1958, when Peter Herbert took on the Elizabethan manor and its famous William Robinson gardens.

‘Change but no change,’ commented owner Jeremy Hosking, as he completed his multimillion pound renovations. Indeed, today’s furnishings look elegant, fresh and attractive, but the feel remains the same: the unhurried calm; the polite, chatty staff (maids in neat black dresses with white aprons); the profusion of naturally arranged flowers; the smell of linseed oil and wood smoke from the great open hearths. Andrew Thomason is the consummate general manager, while in the stunning yet relaxed dining room, George Blogg’s Michelinstarred food is an accomplished delight. Best of all, the gardens have been restored to former glory, with seven full-time gardeners headed

by Tom Coward, who came from Great Dixter.

They are quite wonderful and lunch on the terrace is an unforgettable treat.

NAME TO KNOW... Head chef George Blogg.

Ask him for his salted caramel fondant recipe, which was featured in an episode of MasterChef.

Doubles from £260 +44 (0)1342 810567; gravetyemanor.co.uk

THE GREAT HOUSE AT SONNING SONNING, BERKSHIRE

In his book, Three Men in a Boat, Jerome K Jerome described the village of Sonning on Thames as ‘the most fairy-like little nook on the whole river’. Still a magical place, it’s now home to this riverside boutique hotel in a former Elizabethan coaching inn. It recently reopened after a complete refurb, with a striking new look. The 49 stylish, contemporary bedrooms are split into five categories: Cosy, Relaxed, Deluxe, Riverside Deluxe and Suites. Home comforts include fresh milk in fridges, retro radios, cloudlike duvets and power showers. For food and drink, head to the on-trend Coppa Club restaurant, which is open-plan, with a long, curved pewter bar, wood and tiled floors, exposed brickwork and picture windows overlooking a wide terrace and lawn leading down to the river. The menu focuses on nononsense European food, from sharing plates and salads to grills and sourdough pizzas.

NAME TO KNOW... House manager, Katherine Sage, who is an expert on Sonning and Berkshire, and knows the hotel than anyone.

Doubles from £60 +44 (0)1189 692277; greathouseatsonning.co.uk 102 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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HALFWAY BRIDGE LODSWORTH, WEST SUSSEX

If you love the Crab & Lobster at Sidlesham (and who doesn’t?), then make tracks for its younger sibling. Near Petworth, it stands back from the graceful, swooping A272, the only road we know to have had a book written about it: Ode to a Road. Like the Crab & Lobster (see page 100), the old inn has been immaculately restored by owners Sam and Janet Bakose, with seven exceptional bedrooms, fashioned from a beamed stable block that overlooks a sunny lawn, with woods (watch out for deer) to the rear. The three standard rooms are just as alluring as the more expensive ones, of which No. 5 is particularly lovely, with its part-timber, part-brick back wall. Back at the handsome inn, superior pub grub is served in a choice of intimate nooks that circle the central bar, with exposed brick walls, newly revealed parquet floors, open fires and woodburners.

Put simply, Sam and Janet have what it takes: good taste mixed with warmth, common sense and an assured, professional touch.

NAME TO KNOW... Billy, the general manager, who you can ask anything. From wine and real ales to the local attractions, he knows his stuff.

Doubles from £145 +44 (0)1798 861281; halfwaybridge.co.uk

HARTWELL HOUSE NEAR AYLESBURY, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

One of the great pleasures of hotels is that they are – sometimes – very special buildings to which ordinary mortals would never normally have access. One such shining example is Hartwell House, a Grade I listed stately home that was occupied for five years by the exiled Louis XVIII. Inside, there are beautiful rooms with Rococo ceilings, antique furniture and paintings, and an extraordinary Jacobean staircase, lined by statues of the knights of Europe guarding the way.

The King’s wife, Marie Joséphine of Savoy, had them removed because their candlelit shadows frightened her. But worry not, if you think all this grandeur means pomp and ceremony. As with its fellow National Trust-owned Historic House Hotels, Bodysgallen Hall (see page 197) and Middlethorpe Hall (see page 185), the hospitality is natural and easy-going, the bedrooms as comfortable as they are grand and the food as delicious as you would expect. And the hotel’s spa is a classically themed delight.

NAME TO KNOW... Martin Pike, the long-standing head porter, who is known for his historical knowledge about Hartwell House, its estate and the surrounding area.

Doubles from £240 +44 (0)1296 747444; hartwell-house.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 103

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

HURLEY HOUSE HURLEY, BERKSHIRE

It’s the friendly, laid-back atmosphere of this boutique hotel, not at all at odds with its immaculate, stylish decoration, that impresses you as soon as you enter.

A sensitive new build of 2016, it stands on the site of an old inn just outside the pretty riverside village of Hurley, with the perfect garden for outdoor dining. At the back, the ten country-chic bedrooms in pale greys are spotless but with a cosy feel, enhanced by floorboards, beams, blankets and fresh flowers. They have freestanding roll-top baths and plenty of little luxuries; one Superior Room has its own patio. But what really makes Hurley House tick is the superb cooking of Michelin-starred chef Michael Chapman, whose menus feature the freshest ingredients from Berkshire’s best producers and seafood brought daily from Brixham.

Either eat in the rustic bar or the more formal restaurant, both done up using granite, leather, oak and natural brick.

NAME TO KNOW... Michelin-starred chef, Michael Chapman. Ask him about his love affair with food.

Doubles from £170 +44 (0)1628 568500; hurleyhouse.co.uk

THE LAMB INN WARTLING, EAST SUSSEX

It sounds a bit fictional, The Lamb Inn at Wartling, like something from a TV comedy, which is fitting, since the owner is on telly himself, and full of humour too. On Antiques Road Trip, James Braxton nips round the country in an open-top car, searching for bargains, but this pretty corner of Sussex, overlooking Pevensey Levels, is home. When the village pub came up for sale, he and his wife bought and decorated it beautifully (plenty of antiques), including the five simple, charming and inexpensive bedrooms upstairs.

It’s run by their sons, Charlie, 26, and Ned, 23, who cheerfully preside over a place full of warmth and atmosphere, with good food courtesy of an equally young kitchen team. Charlie’s collection of vinyl records gets aired on a turntable in an alcove; milk churns double for stools along the bar; there are cosy and elegant eating areas, including a courtyard. A great spot, full of fun.

NAME TO KNOW... Head chef Nelson Prudencio, who is passionate about using local produce on his menu. The fish comes from just a few miles away off the South coast Doubles from £95 +44 (0)1323 832116; lambinnwartling.co.uk 104 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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THE MASH INN RADNAGE, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

Deep in the Chilterns, yet just 42 miles from London, here’s something different, delightful and refreshingly honest. ‘I want folks,’ says owner Nick Mash, ‘to come here, return to nature, eat nature and get back to hiking through fields and living without frills.’ How so? ‘By removing barriers between chef and diner, de-formalising, paring down.’ Walk into the diminutive pub, past cosy corners and a tiny bar, then into the airy, vaguely Scandinavian dining area, and you’ll find a solid wood workstation groaning with ingredients beneath a ceiling rack dripping with pots and pans. Here, in front of an open rotisserie fire, cheery chef Jon Parry cooks up a storm for guests at communal or separate tables. Outside: immaculate kitchen gardens; a blazing firepit on the terrace; and a stirringly beautiful Chilterns view. Upstairs: five cute rooms in the eaves with divine beds and hip baths. Nick’s formula for ‘simple, sociable hospitality’ is a winning one.

NAME TO KNOW... Head chef Jon Parry. Ask him about his belief in making everything from scratch and where he foraged the ingredients on today’s menu.

Doubles from £100 +44 (0)1494 482440; themashinn.com

THE MILK HOUSE SISSINGHURST, KENT

A great Kent address. Perfect for visiting Vita Sackville-West’s famous garden at Sissinghurst Castle, it’s a brilliant bolthole for Londoners, with superb food, delicious bedrooms, a lovely terrace and garden, as well as prices you can afford.

The Milk House recalls Sissinghurst’s former name, Milkhouse Street, which changed after a local 19th-century smuggling gang brought it unwanted notoriety. Owners Sarah and Dane have gone for the dairy angle: paintwork in creamy white and the palest mossy green; bedrooms called Dairy, Churn, Byre and Buttery – and Udderly Private. The all-day dining pub looks cool and sophisticated, with a great buzz, and the menu ranges from imaginative dishes to the best of pub grub. The staff are young and frisky; Sarah and Dane have created a contented cow and they should be proud of themselves.

There’s live music on Wednesdays and even an annual summertime music and food Milk Fest.

NAME TO KNOW... Dane Allchorne, owner and head chef, who was born in New Zealand and is trained in classical French cuisine. You’ll often find the kitchen’s local suppliers drinking in The Milk House bar, ask Dane to introduce you.

Doubles from £80 +44 (0)1580 720200; themilkhouse.co.uk 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 105

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

OCKENDEN MANOR CUCKFIELD, WEST SUSSEX

You get the best of both worlds at Ockenden.

If you prefer reassuring, traditional comfort, look no further than this charming Elizabethan manor. If you want slick, sophisticated modernity, that’s yours too. As well as the elegant drawing room, there’s an oak-panelled bar, the Burrell Room for private dining with its original Tudor ceiling, and an airy restaurant where Stephen Crane serves some of the finest food in Sussex. There are 28 bedrooms, some full of character with original panelling and four posters, others fresh and pretty. And then there’s the spa, utterly modern on the outside, airy and natural inside, with indoor/outdoor pool, hot tub and Jacuzzi, walk-through rain shower, steam room, sauna, gym, relaxation area, sundeck, guest lounge and café. As for the spa’s six knockout, first-floor bedrooms, they pack a thoroughly modern punch, with shutters in the bathrooms that open on to the bedrooms that in turn open on to a roof garden with marvellous views across West Sussex.

NAME TO KNOW... Restaurant manager, James. Ask him about English sparkling wines, the Sussex bottles in particular.

Doubles from £199 +44 (0)1444 416111; hshotels.co.uk

PARK HOUSE BEPTON, WEST SUSSEX

A hotel for today that was created yesterday.

In the same family after well over 60 years, it has all the graciousness, tranquility and atmosphere of a privileged family home, where children and dogs are welcome; honesty bar; one wall plastered with family photographs and celebrated past guests; the clink of china teacups in the garden outside. There are 12 bedrooms in the main house (plus a further nine in three adjacent cottages), which look down on to a leisurely, almost Edwardian scene: flower-covered pergola, two lawn tennis courts, croquet lawn, testing six-hole golf course and emerald putting green, all perfectly maintained. Beyond the lawns are long views onto a lovely wooded section of the South Downs with not another house in sight. Add a sleek spa with indoor and outdoor pools, and fine food in the elegant dining room, and Park House, perfectly placed for Chichester and the Sussex Downs, is hard to beat.

NAME TO KNOW... Michael O’Brien, son of the founder and father of the current owner, who has a wealth of knowledge on all things Park House.

Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1730 819020; parkhousehotel.com 106 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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THE PHEASANT INN SHEFFORD WOODLANDS, BERKSHIRE

Looking for a stylish yet cosy weekend bolthole that’s easy to reach from town?

Here it is. Opened last year by charming young Jack Greenall, the Pheasant ticks all the boxes. Though just moments from the M4, the old drovers’ inn stands alone, with uninterrupted views across the Berkshire Downs, and feels properly rural. Inside, thanks to the spot-on taste of Jack and his interior designer, Flora Soames, it is smart and sophisticated yet intimate and warm, in racing green and red (the inn is much frequented by trainers and jockeys) with a constant buzz at the bar and plenty of comfy corners for quiet dining. Upstairs: 11 immaculate, spoiling, incredibly good value bedrooms, full of thoughtful extras.

As for chef Andy Watt’s superior pub grub, it’s spot on too: Scotch eggs like you’ve never tasted before; chateaubriand of Wiltshire beef to share; Dover sole; fabulous puddings.

Has Jack got a hit on his hands? You bet.

NAME TO KNOW... Debbie, who has worked in the building for 24 years. Ask her anything and you’ll get an interesting answer.

Doubles from £100 +44 (0)1488 648284; thepheasant-inn.co.uk

THE ROYAL OAK YATTENDON, BERKSHIRE

You’ll be greeted with a cheery welcome at this superb pub in charming Yattendon village. It’s all that a great pub should be, from the beamed ceilings to the stocky wooden bar with proper ales on tap. Beyond the main bar and dining room lies a large sitting room with deep sofas and a huge open fire. In summer the sun-trap garden is the sort of place where bottles of rosé disappear mysteriously swiftly. Best to soak it all up with some locally sourced grub.

How about game from the Yattendon estate, meat from Vicars Game in Ashampstead and eggs from Beechwood farm? Ingredients that don’t need messing with and that are perfectly suited to head chef Nick McGregor’s unfussy approach. After a sunshine session, where better to rest your weary head than in one of the ten light, airy bedrooms, where a king-size bed beckons, all dolled up in Josephine Home’s finest linens?

NAME TO KNOW... Andrea, one of life’s great hostesses who has worked here for 25 years and provides the warmest of welcomes.

Doubles from £99 +44 (0)1635 201325; royaloakyattendon.co.uk 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 107

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

SOPWELL HOUSE ST ALBANS, HERTFORDSHIRE

In 1665, the Duchess of Dudley fled the plague on the site of Sopwell House, just as Anne Boleyn found refuge at the nunnery here before her marriage to Henry VIII a century before. And you too can find solace in the same stunning countryside. Just one mile from the M25/M1 junction, you could be prone on a deckchair in the spa garden within an hour of leaving London, dripping head-to-toe in ESPA oil, or savouring a buffet lunch in the Brasserie or seasonal canon of salt marsh lamb for dinner in the Restaurant.

Sopwell House, in the Bejerano family for 30 years, is bright and contemporary in style, with corridors lined by an eclectic mix of old French fashion magazine covers and animal giclée prints by artist Dan Hillier. There’s a tempting choice of rooms and suites to suit all budgets; most spoiling are the gated Mews Suites, set apart from the rest of the hotel in a heavenly, superbly landscaped garden.

NAME TO KNOW... The hotel’s host Tony, a real character – and part of the furniture and the family – who is an expert on the hotel, its history and St Albans.

Doubles from £144 +44 (0)1727 864477; sopwellhouse.co.uk

THE SPREAD EAGLE MIDHURST, WEST SUSSEX

Once the most celebrated coaching inn of its age, The Spread Eagle elegantly marries history, tradition and character with contemporary spoiling treats. In the fine, old-fashioned dining room, earthenware pudding basins dangle from the ceiling, a tangible reminder of the past when they were presented to guests every Christmas. Yet the same inn also sports an on-trend gin bar, with more than 70 different gins, 12 different tonics and garnishes from the garden. And what an unexpected treat to find, in a building that dates back to 1430 and is set in the middle of a historic market town, an impressive spa with indoor pool beneath a contemporary Scandinavian-style roof. There’s also a lovely conservatory, where you can eat and drink.

Bedrooms are chic, traditional and charming, with fine bathrooms. In the two best, one has a secret passage, while the other is panelled, with an original wig closet. Past and present united.

NAME TO KNOW... Horace, who will guide you through the impressive collection of gins and tonics, some more unusual than others. Guests can even create their own gin cocktail.

Doubles from £119 +44 (0)1730 816911; hshotels.co.uk 108 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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THE HOME COUNTIES

THE STATION HOUSE HASLEMERE, SURREY

Upham Pubs are on a roll – or should we, in this case, say ‘on a fast track’? Latest in the successful pub group’s portfolio is The Station House, which opened its doors in autumn 2016 and is already a steaming success. Food and drink, of course, take pride of place, with a centre-stage, doublesided bar, a lovely brasserie-style restaurant in the original Victorian part, a café and bar on the first floor and even an outdoor terrace for open-air dining. Expect really good food: perhaps pan fried foie gras with port and grape compote, followed by honey and herb-crusted shoulder of lamb and a delicious warm almond torte to finish. As for the 16 bedrooms, they’ll do very nicely as a lovely base for exploring the rolling Surrey hills and beyond, with stylish furnishings and splashes of bold colour. Half are in the original Victorian building, the rest in the new coach house. Quick, jump aboard.

NAME TO KNOW... John in the reservations team, who can provide you with information on the hotel and arrange any delights for you during your stay.

Doubles from £79 +44 (0)1428 776560; thestationhousehaslemere.co.uk

STOKE PARK STOKE POGES, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

If you don’t know it, privately owned Stoke Park provides one delightful surprise after another. First of all, it’s an historic house, built in the 1790s by James Wyatt for soldier, scholar and poet John Penn. Secondly, it’s set in 300 acres, including beautiful water-filled grounds designed by Humphry Repton, featuring a romantic bridge, just 40 minutes from central London. Thirdly, it’s where the famous golf match from Goldfinger and the mini-break in Bridget Jones were filmed. Fourthly, it’s two hotels, not one: choose from splendid traditional bedrooms in the Mansion or contemporary ones in the newly built Pavilion. Fifthly, it comes with a championship golf course, amazing tennis facilities (the pre-Wimbledon Boodles Challenge is played here annually) and a quite wonderful spa. And last but not least, the staff are very welcoming and the food excellent.

Stoke Park became Britain’s first country club in 1908; now it is open to all. And the church of Gray’s Elegy fame is just a stroll away.

NAME TO KNOW... General manager, Giammario Ragnoli, who is a treasure trove of information on the history of the estate.

Doubles from £250 +44 (0)1753 717171; stokepark.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 109

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE WATERSIDE INN BRAY, BERKSHIRE

For 45 years (of which, they have held three Michelin stars for 33), this restaurant with rooms, owned by the celebrated Roux père et fils and run by Alain Roux, has purred contentedly beside the Thames, with its waterfront terrace and an electric launch at guests’ disposal. The placid river, with boats skulling by, instantly soothes, and the sense of occasion, as waiters prepare for the evening’s seamlessly orchestrated performance, reminds you of a bygone age.

As well as the unashamedly haute yet delicate cuisine, the bedrooms and suites are beautifully kitted out: feminine and elegant, in the French manner, and kept up to the mark by The Waterside’s general manager, Diego Masciaga, with the same dedication he has employed in the restaurant for the past quarter century (‘I don’t live here, but this is my home’). ‘Dedication and consistency,’ Michel Roux has said, ‘are the two qualities that make a great chef and a great restaurant,’ The Waterside Inn certainly has both.

NAME TO KNOW... Head bartender and mixologist Valentino Baú. Ask him about the classics served with a modern twist using carefully researched ingredients.

Doubles from £250 +44 (0)1628 620691; waterside-inn.co.uk

THE WHITE HART OVERTON, HAMPSHIRE

The Upham Pub group just seems to get better and better. Take this spot-on example in the quaint Hampshire village of Overton.

The pub has been a presence there for over five centuries and today, restored by Upham, it feels truly cared for and rather special, its character and charm enriched with quirky and lavish touches. There are plenty of choices for a convivial drink: the warm and cosy snug, the village bar or the sun-trapped garden patio. As for dining, an excellent classic yet modern menu is served in the pretty wood-floored dining room. The 12 bedrooms are a cut above too: individually designed, comfy and attractive, with colourful throws on luxurious beds. And this is such an appealing part of Hampshire, with attractions such as Odiham Castle and Whitchurch Silk Mill close at hand. Jane Austen fans, take note: the village of Steventon, where she was born and raised, is three miles away and guided tours can be arranged.

NAME TO KNOW... Stevee in the reservations team, who can provide you with any information you need during your stay.

Doubles from £104 +44 (0)1256 771431; whitehartoverton.co.uk 110 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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THE HOME COUNTIES

THE WINNING POST WINKFIELD, BERKSHIRE

From the outside, The Winning Post looks like a modest cottage, but inside it’s surprisingly spacious and immediately welcoming. Warmed by an open fire and a wood-burning stove, with exposed brick walls, timber beams and wooden furniture, it has plenty of cosy charm.

Like The Station House (see page 109) and The Peat Spade Inn (see page 86), it belongs to The Upham Group’s stable of pubs and inns, all with character and first-rate service.

The Winning Post is in prime polo and horse-racing country (hence its eye-catching collection of racing photographs) and has swiftly become a favourite watering hole for people from these worlds. Chief among its attractions is the excellent food, which focuses on honest flavours and clean presentation in distinctive seasonal British dishes. Once you have dined, with ten bedrooms in a modern annex and an excellent breakfast to wake up to, there’s no reason not to stay the night.

NAME TO KNOW... General manager, Brandon, who brings charm and character to the business with his extensive knowledge. Ask him about the local surroundings and where to visit.

Doubles from £79 +44 (0)1344 882242; winningpostwinkfield.co.uk

WOOLPACK INN WAREHORNE, KENT

Located directly opposite the picturesque church in the tiny village of Warehorne, the Woolpack is an historic inn that has been beautifully restored by the Ramblinns group, who have created a small collection of luxurious rustic inns near the coast. Relax by the fireside or outside on the timbered terrace or get cosy in the sheep-shack chic tap bar before retiring to a room with its own open fire or woodburner.

Fantastic local fare from the Marshes, nearby farms and the sea is available all day and into the evening. You can lay your head in one of the five lovely bedrooms upstairs. Choose from the romantic opulence of Honeychild to the reputedly haunted Frederick, both with deep slipper baths and quirky décor, or opt for the charming Josephine suite (so called after Napoleon’s first wife, who once waited in vain for him beside the nearby canal).

The smaller yet perfectly formed Niddy and Noddy also contain freestanding baths, all creature comforts and beautiful rural views.

NAME TO KNOW... Tommy Jolly, who can fill you in about the history of the Marshes and tell tales of smuggling and skulduggery.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1233 732900; woolpackinnwarehorne.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 111

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Neil Williams, ‘Battersea Power Station from Victoria’,London, England (Landscape Photographer of the Year – Classic View 2008). neilwilliams.co.uk

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London The greatest city in the world with first-class food, culture and the best places in which to lay your head

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

Who said you needed to leave London to soak in some nature? Deptford Creek is one of the last natural creeks in the UK and it’s bursting with 120 species of wild flowers. creeksidecentre.org.uk

Brand new London winery Renegade London in Bethnal Green features London’s first wine ‘tap room’, open on Fridays and Saturdays. Cheers in the good weather with London-made sauvignon blanc, bacchus, chardonnay and pinot noir. renegadelondonwine.com

Take in some sweet, sweet jazz in Soho.

While the headline gig at Ronnie Scott’s will set you back a few bob, the late night shows cost under a tenner. The Pizza Express on Dean Street is another cheap way to dip your toe into the scene. ronniescotts.co.uk

SUMMER

Four Seasons

For one weekend in May, London’s best art institutions throw open their doors to showcase their collections in unusual and innovative ways. museumsatnight.org.uk

October is the best time to visit for food as 350 restaurants come together for the London Restaurant Festival. londonrestaurant festival.com

From afternoon tea and mean martinis to fabulous festivals of food and culture

AUTUMN Order a martini at Dukes Bar, Sir Ian Fleming’s bar of choice.

Allegedly it was here that he coined the phrase ‘shaken not stirred’, but whether that’s true or not, Alessandro Palazzi still makes the meanest martini in town. dukeshotel.com

Afternoon tea at Fortnum and Mason is an art form. While its scones are a huge draw, here it’s all about the tea. With over 300-years’ experience, their on-hand ‘tearistas’ will help you find the perfect blend. fortnumandmason.com

WINTER Turner’s wintry skies were some of his most dramatic. Bet you didn’t know you can flick through his sketchbooks and preparatory watercolours at Tate Britain Prints and Drawings Room? Just book in advance. tate.org.uk

PHOTOS: JMW TURNER (1775-1851)ENGLAND: RICHMOND HILL, ON THE PRINCE REGENT’S BIRTHDAY EXHIBITED 1819OIL PAINT ON CANVAS, COURTESY THE TATE

SPRING

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LONDON

The chocolate master at work

LIVE LIKE A LOCAL PAUL’S LONDON CHEAT SHEET

SHOP I’d like to think we have something to suit just about every palate. paulayoung.co.uk

WINE

Sweet Talk

Paul A Young is leading a wave of cutting-edge craft chocolatiers, who are working in a truly artisanal way of Rococo and she asked me to create a new chocolate for her for the launch of Chocolate Week. This was the moment when I saw there was an opportunity to capture the imagination of chocolate lovers everywhere. And so Paul A Young was founded.

Forest Wines stocks a particularly well chosen range of organic and biodynamic wines, craft beers and spirit. Sign up for a wine tasting. forestwines.com

PUB The Village Pub, Walthamstow, set in the heart of E17, serves a fantastic range of British beers and freshly cooked British classics – fish ’n‘ chips, sausage ’n‘ mash and roasts. village-walthamstow.com

What do you enjoy most about your job?

Paul A Young

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK; MAXINE KIRSTY SAPSFORD; PAUL WINCH-FURNESS

What do you do make? We make all sorts of chocolate, from bars to individual chocolates, truffles, brownies and drinking chocolate.

We are craft chocolatiers working in a truly artisanal way. That means we take a lot of care sourcing all our ingredients with great attention to detail.

Compounds, concentrations, essences, preservatives are all banned – only fresh ingredients are used.

I’m known as the Flavour Alchemist, so I’m always looking for new flavour combinations – something original, experimental, daring.

Have you always been a chocolate fan? I’ve always loved food, especially chocolate. I remember, from a very early age, baking with my granny and chocolate was always involved. I went to catering college and eventually rose to be Marco Pierre White’s head pastry chef at Quo Vadis and The Criterion – from then I was totally hooked on chocolate. I consulted for Chantal Coady

For me, the most important aspect is to be innovative and creative – it’s incredibly challenging – but such huge fun. I opened my first shop 11 years ago and now we have three.

Tell us about the sort of chocolates you make? From sweet truffles filled with fruits or caramels to ones with whisky or even Marmite – yes, Marmite! The ambition is to excite our customers’ tastebuds every time they walk into our shop. One of my favourites is my sea salted caramel truffle. It has won Gold in the chocolate awards twice. I have to have one every day. You know – for quality control, of course.

What has been your biggest triumph? Opening the first shop was a huge highlight. I’d been looking for the right location for years, walking the streets of London, looking at many properties that weren’t right or were too expensive, but then I found the store on Camden Passage in Islington and friends and family helped me to turn a run down and unusable space into a beautiful new chocolate shop. paulayoung.co.uk

RESTAURANT A mixture of comfy classics and modern British food, The Ivy is one of the most fun places to eat. the-ivy.co.uk

BRUNCH The Providores and Tapa Room on Marylebone High Street offers exciting and innovative fusion food in its allday café and in a more formal dining area. theprovidores.co.uk

QUICK BITE For a modern, informal version of Marcus Wareing’s food, try Tredwells in the Seven Dials – it serves great cocktails too. tredwells.com

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Put the berries in to a saucepan with the sugar, cornflour, vanilla pod and orange zest and mix well.

Heat gently, then bring to a simmer and cook for one to two minutes. Remove from the heat and add rosewater to taste. Set three to four tablespoons of the compote aside, then drain the rest of the fruit, reserving the liquid.

Line a one-litre basin with cling film and allow enough overhang to cover the whole pudding once the basin is filled. Cut a circle out of one slice of bread to fit the bottom of the basin. Dip it in the juices from the compote and put it into the basin. Cut the remaining slices in half on the diagonal and use them to line the sides of the basin, dipping each one in juice as you go. Be sure to overlap them INGREDIENTS slightly as you fit them around the SERVES SIX edge of the basin, » 750g seasonal berries so there are no gaps. » 110g caster sugar Fill the bread» 10g cornflour » 1/2 vanilla pod lined basin with the » Grated zest of 1/2 berries, removing orange the vanilla pod. » 1–2 tbsp rosewater » 7–8 slices from a large Cut a final piece white loaf, crusts of bread to fit the removed top and dip it in » A few fresh, unsprayed rose petals, to decorate the juice. Pour the remaining juice into the basin and top with bread. Cover with the cling film then with a plate that just fits inside the basin, then put a weight on top – a tin of beans will do nicely.

Leave in the fridge overnight.

To serve, run a knife around the edge of the pudding, turn it out on to a plate and pour over the reserved compote. Scatter a few rose petals over the top.

It’s good served with plenty of thick cream.

Petal Power Fortnum & Mason is one of London’s great institutions. Its cook book by Tom Parker Bowles includes its most classic recipes from the last 300 years

ROSE PETAL PUDDING

A rosewater-flavoured summer pudding, decorated with rose petals. If the months are more autumnal, swap strawberries for blackberries and currants. This dessert can’t fail to conjure up images of the English rose garden, so why not pack it into a hamper to take to Queen Mary’s one in Regent’s Park?

Tom Parker Bowles

Extracted from Fortnum & Mason: The Cook Book

by Tom Parker Bowles (4th Estate, £30)

PHOTOS: DAVID LOFTUS

METHOD

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LONDON

THE APARTMENTS

BY THE SLOANE CLUB CHELSEA, SW1

If you know and love the reassuringly traditional Sloane Club (see page 133), then you will be amazed by its apartments on Sloane Gardens.

In a nearby late 19th-century red brick and stucco building, a mix of studios, one and twobed apartments, 18 in all, have been created for both long and short stays. Expecting something nice and sensible? Even the most stiffly coiffed Sloane Club lady would find her hair standing on end at the shebang that Rosemary Earl, in-house interior designer, and EG Newell Interiors, based in San Francisco, concocted together: modern Art Deco with four different colour schemes of red, blue, aqua and taupe.

With state-of-the-art streamlined, fully equipped Poggenpohl kitchens and hotel services (porter, concierge, room service, housekeeping), these apartments are for city slickers. Apartments by Sloane Club? More like Apartments by Beverly Hills. They are different and snazzy and will make you feel glam, for sure.

NAME TO KNOW... The concierge Enrico, who has encyclopedic restaurant knowledge and is always able to pull strings.

Studios from £264 +44 (0)20 7730 9131; clubapartments.co.uk

THE ARCH LONDON MARBLE ARCH, W1

Occupying eight neighbouring townhouses north of Marble Arch, The Arch lies close to that excellent shopping and dining thoroughfare, Marylebone High Street.

But, if it’s central and urban, it’s certainly not predictable; better described as one of the new breed of townhouse hotels rather than that 1990s phenomenon, the boutique hotel. It’s luxurious alright, but it’s not grand.

Public spaces are art-filled, smart and glossy, but intimate too. The 82 striking bedrooms have been superbly executed and, for their quality and location, offer great value for money.

The heart of the place, and its cleverest feature, is the subtly curtained champagne lounge that flows into a zinc-topped bar area and on into the Hunter 486 (that’s the 1950s dialing code for Marylebone, in case you were wondering), with open-to-view kitchen and wood-fired oven. You could almost be in New York. Dine or breakfast anywhere in these three areas and enjoy the ambience – buzzy but relaxed.

NAME TO KNOW... The hotel’s Golden Key concierge, Theo, who has been at The Arch since it opened and has a wealth of local knowledge.

Doubles from £282 +44 (0)20 7724 4700; thearchlondon.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 117

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

ARTIST RESIDENCE PIMLICO, SW1

The third hotel in the hands of dynamic duo Justin and Charlie (Charlotte) Salisbury – opened after their Artist Residences in Brighton (see page 96) and Penzance (page 41) – used to be a down-at-heel local boozer. Together, with enthusiasm, hard work and artistic flair, they’ve transformed it into a charming, affordable London hotel with bags of character. On three elegant floors, it has eight comfortably rustic bedrooms and two fabulous suites, all imaginatively decorated and furnished with quirky, cleverly sourced finds. There’s also a laid-back sitting room, a glamorous cocktail bar and, taking centre stage on the ground floor, the Cambridge Street Kitchen. A welcoming social space by day serving brunch, cold-pressed juices and Allpress coffee, it transforms into a modern restaurant at night. A separate entrance for hotel guests means there’s no awkward check in at the bar. A former pub is now a proper, much appreciated, if diminutive, hotel.

NAME TO KNOW... General manager Liam is a Pimliconian who will happily wax lyrical about the area and the most scenic ways to see London.

Doubles from £180 +44 (0)20 7931 8946; artistresidencelondon.co.uk

BATTY LANGLEY’S SPITALFIELDS, E1

Walk through the double doors into this charming hotel, packed with character and Georgian detail, and you might be entering another era. In lively, gentrified Spitalfields, Batty Langley’s lives up to its unusual name. Inspired by an 18th-century architect and landscape gardener, who wrote guides to help his clients plan their houses and gardens with taste, it’s in the same ownership as the equally captivating Hazlitt’s and The Rookery (see pages 125 and 131). The panelled interior, with its open fires, countless books, mellow antiques and fine paintings, feels more private house than hotel.

Your most difficult choice will probably be which of the three warmly decorated sitting rooms to occupy. Cocooning their inhabitants with comfort and calm, the 29 bedrooms and suites are furnished with antique carved beds or four posters, heavy silk curtains or wooden shutters and bathrooms with restored period fittings.

Nods to the 21st century are discreetly hidden.

NAME TO KNOW... Test the knowledgeable staff on the history behind Batty Langley’s and the origin of the hotel name, Batty by name and batty by nature.

Doubles from £249 +44 (0)20 7377 4390; battylangleys.com 118 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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LONDON

THE BEAUMONT MAYFAIR, W1

It was always going to be great. The first hotel from restaurant supremos Corbin & King (that’s Chris Corbin and Jeremy King, founders of The Wolseley and many of London’s most fashionable restaurants) was a glossy, stylish hit from the moment it opened in 2014. What’s more, its advent has put North Mayfair firmly on the map; and, courtesy of Antony Gormley’s inhabitable sculpture Room, it has given London both a magnificent public artwork and an extraordinary one-bedroom suite inside it. The Beaumont harks back to the pre-war elegance of Mayfair hotels. It is classy (chequerboard lobby floor, early 20th-century paintings, gleaming antiques) yet intimate and its circular, muralled Colony Grill Room is Corbin & King at their best, here serving American classics in animated, retro-stylish surroundings. The 73 Art Deco-themed rooms and suites are handsome, sensible and supremely comfortable, with gleaming bathrooms in marble and chrome.

NAME TO KNOW... Bhart Shemar, the resident osteopath, naturopath and medical acupuncturist. He’s a veritable miracle worker, ask him to work his magic on your back.

Doubles from £395 +44 (0)20 7499 1001; thebeaumont.com

THE BINGHAM RICHMOND, TW10

This glamorous, intimate riverside hotel began life as two Georgian townhouses, later joined together by Lady Anne Bingham, a forebear of Lord Lucan. By 1899, two poets, Katherine Harris Bradley and Edith Emma Cooper, were writing there under the nom de plume of Michael Field. ‘I have rubbed myself against nature’s great, warm hand,’ wrote Katherine, after a bout of gardening ‘in a spirit of pagan delight’. Crikey. Today’s owner, Samantha Trinder, ably assisted by brilliant general manager Erick Kervaon, has created a special place in which to stay and dine. Slick and contemporary, the hotel has the friendliest staff, a fun cocktail bar and a beautiful restaurant, a Richmond hotspot where natural modern British cuisine excels. But it’s the setting that adds the extra magic here, and the view: the river right there at the end of the expansive terrace and pretty walled garden, with the towpath and the water, rowing boats and pleasure craft beyond. And London on the doorstep.

NAME TO KNOW... Francesco Pani. Ask him about the connecting of the two Georgian townhouses and their uses through the ages.

Doubles from £164 +44 (0)20 8940 0902; thebingham.co.uk 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 119

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE BLOOMSBURY BLOOMSBURY, WC1

A cherished member of The Doyle Collection, an exclusive Irish hotel group, which also includes The Kensington (see page 125) and The Marylebone (see page 129) in London, and The River Lee and The Westbury (see page 225) in Ireland. The Bloomsbury is a sympathetic conversion of a Grade II-listed building, originally designed in the 1930s in neo-Georgian style by that most English of architects, Sir Edwin Lutyens. His signature is in the impressive stone entrance, striking double-height lobby and wonderfully quirky ironwork. There’s a sense of calm here, and an understated elegance.

You feel shielded against the outside bustle, particularly in the refined bedrooms, decorated from a smart, mainly neutral palette, with headboards and fabric motifs that recall Lutyens’ work. And then there’s Dalloway Terrace, an enchanting, vine-strewn outdoor restaurant, and the wonderful wood-panelled Bloomsbury Club Bar, a must for a pre or post-prandial drink.

NAME TO KNOW... Senior guest relations Sebastian Annandale, who can create a child’s wonderland in your suite, complete with a teepee and famous Bloomsbury bear.

Doubles from £261 +44 (0)20 7347 1000; doylecollection.com

BROWN’S HOTEL MAYFAIR, W1

A five-star hotel with history and gravitas, but none of the pomp or flashness of some of its rivals. Brown’s was founded in 1837 by Lord Byron’s butler. In 2005, Olga Polizzi revamped the interior for her brother, Rocco Forte, lifting its Victorian looks with an injection of contemporary sophistication. Nowhere is the fusion of styles more evident than in the award-winning English tea room, where original panelling sits easily with modern art. Queen Victoria herself was an early fan of afternoon tea at Brown’s. Mark Hix’s menu for the celebrated restaurant, Hix Mayfair, focuses on big British flavours, deftly handled. The restaurant, lounge and Donovan Bar effectively form one large, contemporary art-filled space, devoted to eating, drinking and entertaining. Bedrooms display Olga Polizzi’s style, not least the fabulous Kipling Suite, named after Rudyard Kipling, who stayed at Brown’s and penned The Jungle Book here.

Downstairs, there’s a spoiling subterranean spa.

NAME TO KNOW... Head concierge David Young, who is one of London’s best, and creates unrivalled experiences and tailored itineraries for guests.

Doubles from £475 +44 (0)20 7493 6020; roccofortehotels.com 120 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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LONDON

THE CAPITAL KNIGHTSBRIDGE, SW3

A compact Knightsbridge hotel with all the sumptuousness and service of a rare five-star, but much more intimate and personal. Within high-heeled range of Harrods, The Capital is a real family affair, founded by David Levin and still run by his daughter Kate. From the moment you encounter the concierge team, headed by the renowned Clive Smith (aka Superman), you know you’re staying somewhere special, where every element of the hotel is fine-tuned, beautifully presented and perfect. In the dining room, Michelin-starred Outlaw’s at The Capital, Nathan Outlaw and head chef Tom Brown create an everchanging menu of dishes, while one of London’s great barmen, Cesar Da Silva, presides over the elegant Capital Bar. Roomy and cosseting, the 49 bedrooms are decorated in classic, elegant style and have superlative beds and marble bathrooms. If you prefer your luxury English and understated, then The Capital is for you.

NAME TO KNOW... Cesar Da Silva, The Capital’s resident whisky expert and youngest UK Keeper of the Quaich. Ask him what it is that makes a Davidstow Cheddar work so well with a dram of Aberlour whisky.

Doubles from £315 +44 (0)20 7591 1200; capitalhotel.co.uk

CLARIDGE’S MAYFAIR, W1

Do you love giving special gifts to special people? Then pop Claridge’s in a presentation box, tie it up with a red ribbon and give it – for a night or maybe two – to someone you love. It has always had a cachet. But while it used to be the staid and stately base for visiting royalty, today it is, as part of the Maybourne Group that includes The Connaught and The Berkeley, a spirited mix of glittering and gracious, hip and dignified, underpinned by superb service. It’s the details that count: pushing through the revolving door, past photographers waiting for a celebrity guest, into the glacial, marble-floored Front Hall; the wrought-iron lift complete with attendant and comfy seat; the Art Deco bathrooms; the 1930s jewel box of a bar, the Fumoir, not to mention fabulous, arboreal Fera restaurant – and so much more. If ever there was a hotel that felt like a present, it is this, now at the pinnacle of its 200-year history.

NAME TO KNOW... Head concierge, Martin Ballard, also known as Lord of the Lobby, who has been at Claridge’s for more than 30 years and whose knowledge of London is unrivalled.

Doubles from £570 +44 (0)20 7629 8860; claridges.co.uk 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 121

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COMO THE HALKIN BELGRAVIA, SW1

Can a hotel corridor be seductive? It can be here. Leave the lift, and you navigate a graceful arc of black-painted vertical strips of wood in which bedroom doors are all but invisible. In a city centre hotel built on a former parking lot, these gently curving walls give an impression of infinite length and create a Zen mood of calm. More than COMO The Halkin’s airy lobby, more than its Armani-clad staff, the corridors define its atmosphere. You tread softly and even when the hotel is full, it feels unhurried and those anonymous doors, some with red dots of light denoting ‘do not disturb’, speak silently of privacy, contentment and calm amid the storm. After 25 years, COMO The Halkin remains effortlessly cool and stylish, and those casting about for a spoiling, impeccably designed London base should look no further. In-room COMO Shambhala treatments are available, as well as yoga, and for sustenance, there’s the Michelin-starred Basque restaurant Ametsa with Arzak Instruction, with its unique ceiling.

NAME TO KNOW... Head concierge Stefano Trovo, who has been working at the property since 1991 and is a member of the Golden Keys.

Doubles from £ 39 0 +44 (0)20 7333 1000; comohotels.com

DORSET SQUARE HOTEL MARYLEBONE, NW1

The first of Firmdale’s sexy yet welcoming city hotels, owned and run by multi-talented husbandand-wife team Tim and Kit Kemp, opened in 1985. Like their Knightsbridge Hotel (see page 126) and Number Sixteen (see page 129), it’s a beautiful London townhouse, this one Georgian, with some gentle decorative reminders that it occupies the site of Thomas Lord’s first cricket ground. There are bats arranged like works of art, tiny cricket balls as wardrobe doorhandles, photographs and cartoons of famous cricketers and other memorabilia, all incorporated into Kit’s sophisticated interiors. Her style is witty, contemporary and bold, combining strong colours and contrasting fabrics, enhanced by exciting modern art. There’s an elegant drawing room with an honesty bar, and 38 seductive bedrooms, many overlooking the Dorset Square garden, to which guests have access. The Potting Shed restaurant serves exceptional modern British food, with a clever lighting installation by Martha Freud as a backdrop.

NAME TO KNOW... Reception manager, Charlotte Crampton Smith. Ask her for tips on local shopping and what’s on at the theatre.

Doubles from £276 +44 (0)20 7723 7874; firmdalehotels.com 122 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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LONDON

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL LONDON AT TEN TRINITY SQUARE TOWER HILL, EC3

The latest addition to the Four Seasons’ dazzling portfolio is this exquisitely restored former HQ of the Port of London Authority. Built in 1922 in arresting Art Deco style, it is as striking inside as out. The sweeping Rotunda all-day barrestaurant, with its original wall reliefs and dome, will make you gasp with delight. Light dishes are served here, but there are also two destination restaurants: La Dame de Pic, showcasing the food of triple Michelin star holder, Anne-Sophie Pic, and Mei Ume, serving Chinese and Japanese cuisine. You will want for nothing in any of the 100 gorgeous bedrooms, spread over the hotel’s first three floors. Those above are dedicated to 41 apartments and a private members’ club.

A spacious 24-hour fitness centre, yoga studio, indoor pool, hammam and sleek Romaninspired spa add to its appeal. The group’s reputation for tip-top luxury hotels is as evident here as in its Hampshire outpost (see page 80).

NAME TO KNOW... Jan Konetzki, director of wine, who oversees the lists for La Dame de Pic London and the hotel’s other dining outlets.

Doubles from £430 +44 (0)20 3297 9200; fourseasons.com/tentrinity

THE GORING BELGRAVIA, SW1

Opened in 1910, and still in the same family, The Goring is gloriously British. But although it is a grand and dignified institution, it never takes itself too seriously, possessing what so many smart hotels lack: a sense of humour. Where else does Noël Coward sing Mad Dogs and Englishmen while your call is being connected? Who else has an ‘Ooh!’ light setting in each bedroom?

And these days, as well as great comfort, it has undeniable wow-factor glamour, thanks to a top-to-toe redecoration triumphantly capped by the wonderful, hand-painted wallpaper that now graces the Front Hall. The Bar, redolent of colonial grandeur, is a hub, where afternoon tea is London’s best, while in the scintillating Linleydesigned dining room, head chef Shay Cooper’s Michelin-starred modern British cuisine causes many a lip to smack. As for the 69 bedrooms, they encapsulate the quintessentially English feel; the Royal Suite is particularly delectable. And then there’s The Goring’s secret glory: its huge private garden, complete with croquet lawn.

NAME TO KNOW... Expert concierge Big John and his team, who will tell you all you need to know about what’s going on in London.

Doubles from £435 +44 (0)20 7396 9000; thegoring.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 123

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THE GRAZING GOAT MARYLEBONE, W1

The name of this stylish gastropub and hotel comes from the fact that it occupies land once used to graze goats. Tucked away in Marylebone’s upmarket Portman Village, it’s also handy for the shops on Oxford Street and the leafy spread of Hyde Park. There’s a rustic chic look to the interior. The lantern-lit restaurant downstairs is all pale oak, a look that carries on into the first-floor dining room, which has an atrium ceiling and open fire. Both rooms serve seasonal British food: tasty grills and rôtisseries, classic and modern dishes, all far superior to standard gastro fare. Spread across the top three floors are eight large bedrooms, simply but captivatingly decorated in subtle shades and furnished in contemporarycountry style. Enjoy a rainforest shower and a huge sleigh bed made up with crisp cotton sheets. The Grazing Goat belongs to Cubitt House, the same excellent small group that owns The Orange in Pimlico (see page 130).

NAME TO KNOW... Mariusz, who knows the breakfast menu like the back of his hand and will be able to make some recommendations and tell you his personal favourite.

Doubles from £210 +44 (0)20 7724 7243; thegrazinggoat.co.uk

GREAT NORTHERN HOTEL KING’S CROSS, N1

King’s Cross has emerged as one of the most vibrant and culturally rich quarters of London and the ‘back to the bricks’ restoration of this once weary, Grade II listed, 1854 railway hotel is testament to the first-class design and exemplary standards of hospitality we enjoy today. The GNH, with its packed cocktail bar, glamorous restaurant and beautiful yet affordable bedrooms, appeals to a far wider market than just the UK rail and Eurostar traveller. The restaurant, Plum + Spilt Milk, is one of London’s finest and a destination in itself. On each of the five floors of bedrooms, at the end of wide, gracious and gently curving original corridors, you’ll find a charming complimentary pantry stocked with homemade cakes, iconic candies and an industrial-sized Nespresso machine. The bedrooms are chic and elegant, with bespoke furniture. Most fun are the petite Couchette rooms, designed to resemble railway sleeping cars and instantly likeable. An excellent address.

NAME TO KNOW... Head bartender, Harry Nikolaou, who knows how to balance unique flavour combinations to create one-off, memorable cocktails, suiting every mood.

Doubles from £249 +44 (0)20 3388 0800; gnhlondon.com 124 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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LONDON

HAZLITT’S SOHO, W1

Hazlitt’s is the real deal: as genuine, amusing and revealing a hotel as you could hope for, especially in seething Soho. It’s named after the radical essayist and master of English prose, William Hazlitt. He died in poverty in 1830 at number six Frith Street, one of three adjoining townhouses that the owners, experts on the Georgian era, fashioned into Hazlitt’s in 1986. A fourth building behind was converted to create a sitting room with an honesty bar and an additional eight bedrooms, reached by a lift. As befits an establishment with such literary connections, the hotel is popular with authors, who leave signed copies of their works when they depart.

The sloping, creaking floorboards have been retained and the rooms, decorated with antiques, busts and prints, are individually furnished, with splendid bathtubs and Victorian fittings in the bathrooms. Like the rooms in its distinctive sisters, Batty Langley’s and The Rookery (see pages 118 and 131), they are delightfully different from other London hotels.

NAME TO KNOW... All rooms are named after people who lived either in the hotel or locally.

Ask the staff about the colourful Teresa Cornelys.

Doubles from £269 +44 (0)20 7434 1771; hazlittshotel.com

THE KENSINGTON SOUTH KENSINGTON, SW7

What an exciting address, and in an attractive, central part of London that has never been noted for its hotels; not spot-hitting ones like this, anyway. The Doyles are Irish hoteliers, headed by three sisters who also own The Marylebone (see page 129) and The Bloomsbury (see page 120) in London, and The River Lee and The Westbury (see page 225) in Ireland. One sister, chairman Bernie Gallagher, oversaw the interior design of The Kensington and her personal charm and attractiveness is reflected in her creation. The result is comfortable, liveable, sophisticated, but never try-hard, with a series of public rooms that are stylish yet undemanding, putting the guest first. Eat and drink wherever you like, including in the homely Town House restaurant and the K Bar, for signature cocktails and bar bites. There are 150 beautifully decorated bedrooms and, if you want to explore, there are Pashley bikes with baskets for a picnic – another great touch.

NAME TO KNOW... Head concierge Vincent Peach, who is a fountain of knowledge about what’s happening at the nearby Victoria & Albert Museum, Natural History Museum and Royal Albert Hall.

Doubles from £240 +44 (0)20 7589 6300; doylecollection.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 125

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KNIGHTSBRIDGE HOTEL KNIGHTSBRIDGE, SW3

Tim and Kit Kemp, owners of Firmdale Hotels, have the knack of creating places to stay that not only look fabulous but are easy-going and smoothly run. Knightsbridge Hotel is no exception. An imposing house in a quiet cul-de-sac makes the ideal home for it. As with its London townhouse siblings, Dorset Square Hotel (see page 122) and Number Sixteen (see page 129), Kit has designed the interior with panache, using vivid colour, specially designed fabrics, original British art and statement furniture. There are two public rooms downstairs, the drawing room and library, both with a working fireplace.

Here, a fireside tea is a winter treat. Upstairs, there are 44 bedrooms and suites, all fresh and as lovely to look at as to sleep in, with thoughtful extras such as iPod docking stations. If it’s a special occasion, book the stunning open-plan Knightsbridge Suite, with its triptych of floor-length windows.

No restaurant, but there is 24-hour room service.

NAME TO KNOW... The concierge, Per. What he doesn’t know about the Knightsbridge area isn’t worth knowing.

Doubles from £306 +44 (0)20 7584 6300; firmdalehotels.com

THE LANGHAM MARYLEBONE, W1

London’s first purpose-built ‘grand hotel’ opened its doors in 1865 and has never looked more ravishing, with stunning public areas and wonderfully comfortable and newly renovated bedrooms. From Superior Rooms through to The Sterling Suite, they evoke the comfort of a private residence, but it’s the sugar-pink touches – flowers, stationery, chocolates – that really appeal. Descend to the glittering, spacious, marble-pillared ground floor, where afternoon tea in the Palm Court is a real treat.

Take a spell in the sparkling new and coolly beautiful Chuan Body + Soul, a sanctuary of physical and spiritual healing. Go on to cocktails in the award-winning Artesian bar or a drink in the just-opened modern British tavern, The Wigmore, then dinner at Roux at The Landau, overseen by father and son, Albert and Michel Roux Jr. In the morning, you might choose the Palm Court once more for breakfast: even the pot of coffee is a thing of beauty.

If you really want to indulge, upgrade for entrance to The Langham Club Lounge.

NAME TO KNOW... Albert and Michel Roux, the father-son team, who scarcely need introducing.

Doubles from £350 +44 (0)20 7636 1000; langhamhotels.co.uk 126 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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LONDON

THE LASLETT NOTTING HILL, W2

Spread across five beautiful white stucco Victorian townhouses in buzzing Notting Hill, The Laslett is part of Tracy Lowy’s Living Rooms collection of elegant, superbly located London addresses. Inspired by the neighbourhood’s rich cultural heritage, it takes its name from Rhaune Laslett, an activist who organised the original Notting Hill Festival, forerunner of the famous Carnival. The interior, its walls hung with carefully chosen photographs and paintings, features a dynamic ground floor, more local chill area than hotel lobby, with a library, an eclectic antiques shop and the Henderson bar and coffee shop. Called after Russ Henderson, the well-loved Trinidadian musician who helped to found the Carnival, it offers a daily evolving menu of simple, seasonal dishes, home-made cakes and tip-top cocktails. Rooms and suites are classic but cool, looking and feeling like a very stylish private home, where Penguin Classics for bedtime reading rest comfortably beside Britishdesigned furniture and works by local artists.

NAME TO KNOW... The local antique dealer, Jerome Dodd, who supplies the hotel’s pop-up shop. Ask for his local recommendations.

Doubles from £199 +44 (0)20 7792 6688; thelaslett.co.uk

THE LEVIN KNIGHTSBRIDGE, SW3

Here’s a well-kept secret, one that combines the luxury of a top hotel with the intimacy of a guesthouse. Ladies, solo or otherwise, love it.

Why wouldn’t they when it’s a designer bag’s swing from Harrods and Harvey Nichols? The Levin is the baby sister of The Capital, almost next door (see page 121). If The Capital is small, The Levin is tiny: 12 bedrooms arranged around a staircase that spirals through five floors, with a dramatic, shimmering installation, mimicking a chandelier that cascades down the stairwell.

The lobby has beautiful duck-egg blue walls, with a feel of the 1930s, and the minute lift is a nostalgic throwback. The bedrooms are the sort you may never want to leave: suave, with particularly good lighting, a selection of interesting paperbacks and – best of all – the champagne bar, with all the ingredients, including recipes, for the perfect champagne cocktail. Tucked away in the basement is The Metro, the hotel’s elegant little bistro.

NAME TO KNOW... Front of house manager Lorena Somera, who works to offer the guests a little something extra. Ask her to recommend the best boutiques in the area.

Doubles from £245 +44 (0)20 7589 6286; thelevinhotel.co.uk 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 127

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LIME TREE HOTEL BELGRAVIA, SW1

It’s rare to find an affordable hotel in central London; even more so in smart Belgravia.

But the Lime Tree is just that, and what’s more, it has the air of a place in the country, with painted furniture and breakfast menus chalked jauntily on blackboards. Matt and Charlotte Goodsall took over the guesthouse from Charlotte’s parents and, after extensive renovation and redecoration, have created a delightful bolthole, with the added bonus of a garden, complete with lawn and potting shed. There are 25 simple, stylish and homely bedrooms, with pretty fabrics and personal touches. One has a small terrace and garden access; another has ‘bookshelves’ wallpaper across one wall that hides the door to the bathroom. Staff are notably friendly and helpful, and single travellers are particularly well looked after. There’s a cosy sitting room, awash with the latest glossy magazines, and breakfast is served at your table in a room full of chatter that feels like home.

NAME TO KNOW... Front of house manager Laura. Ask her what to see and do to get the most out of your time in London.

Doubles from £185 +44 (0)20 7730 8191; limetreehotel.co.uk

MANDARIN ORIENTAL HYDE PARK, LONDON KNIGHTSBRIDGE, SW1

The celebrated Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group is a byword for luxury and exceptional service.

Its London outpost, in an exuberant red-brick Edwardian building, is no exception, currently undergoing a comprehensive, multi-million pound renovation, with a stunning design by interior designer Joyce Wang. She has drawn her inspiration from Hyde Park’s natural beauty, the hotel’s royal heritage and the glamour of the early-20th century’s Golden Age of travel, and the finished look is fabulous. The new reception areas have striking glass chandeliers that represent the different stages of an opening flower, and carpets that recall fallen leaves.

The revamped art deco-influenced bedrooms have carefully curated artworks and bespoke furniture. The coming months will see the opening of two sumptuous penthouse suites, with private terraces and park views, and the newly renovated spa featuring an exclusive Mandarin Oriental express studio concept.

NAME TO KNOW... Head concierge Nigel Bowen, who has access to some of the best experiences that London has to offer.

Doubles from £550 +44 (0)20 7235 2000; mandarinoriental.com/london 128 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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LONDON

THE MARYLEBONE MARYLEBONE, W1

Which born and bred Londoners could have dreamed that Marylebone, once dusty and overlooked, could have become such a chic, lively quarter, full of quirky, stylish shops, restaurants and cafés? And now this cosmopolitan community has The Marylebone, a great place for breakfast, lunch or dinner in its sassy 108 Brasserie, or simply a drink with friends at the bar. Sister to The Bloomsbury (see page 120) and The Kensington (see page 125) in London, as well as The River Lee and The Westbury (see page 225) in Ireland, The Marylebone is a prime example of a successful new wave of hotels, where it’s fun not just to sleep in one of the calm, contemporary bedrooms, but to while away time in the smart, snappily decorated reception rooms, with their changing contemporary art displays. Add the gym, indoor pool and spa, and you have it all.

Stay in the penthouse Marylebone Suite, and you may refuse to leave.

NAME TO KNOW... Food and beverage manager, Tanya Yilmaz. Ask her what the dish of the month is and why the homemade Guinness bread is so popular.

Doubles from £264 +44 (0)20 7486 6600; doylecollection.com

NUMBER SIXTEEN SOUTH KENSINGTON, SW7

Part of a mid-Victorian white stucco terrace, Number Sixteen is one of Firmdale’s collection of London townhouse hotels, together with Dorset Square Hotel (see page 122) and Knightsbridge Hotel (see page 126). Inside, it is imaginatively decorated by Kit Kemp in her inimitable contemporary, eclectic style, full of bold colours, joyful collisions of pattern and hand-picked artworks. The ground-floor rooms are flooded with light from floor-to-ceiling windows, and include two drawing rooms, a library with that Firmdale trademark, an honesty bar, and an orangery leading to a leafy garden. On warm days, this is the spot for relaxing, drinking, eating or meeting friends. It only has 41 rooms, but all the facilities you’d expect from a larger luxury hotel are in place – 24-hour room service, valet, concierge and spoiling in-room Soholistic treatments. It’s also a stylish place to eat: breakfast, lunch, dinner and afternoon tea are all served in the orangery and the garden in summer.

NAME TO KNOW... The concierge, Arthur, who has been at Number Sixteen for ten years and can book restaurants, theatre tickets, tours and football tickets, and he never forgets a face.

Doubles from £312 +44 (0)20 7589 5232; firmdalehotels.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 129

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THE ORANGE PIMLICO, SW1

A Pimlico local, with top-notch food and four boutique hotel rooms housed in a handsome white stucco building looking out onto Orange Square, The Orange is part of Cubitt House, which also includes The Grazing Goat (see page 124).

Inside you will find wooden floors, a bright and airy interior, high ceilings and open fires. You can dine on the ground floor and in the first-floor restaurant, where modern British dishes are created using locally sourced seasonal ingredients. Try the sharing Sunday roast or one of the ‘local loved’ wood-fired pizzas packed with flavour.

The sunny bedrooms (two standard, two superior) are on the second floor. Best is the ‘Pimlico’ room, charming in a homefrom-home way, with original floorboards, lofty beamed ceilings and sash windows dressed in sage linen. The beautifully presented breakfast, including housemade granola, won’t fail to impress.

NAME TO KNOW... Germain, who will tell you his favourite breakfast dish, and make some personal recommendations.

Doubles from £205 +44 (0)20 7881 9844; theorange.co.uk

THE PORTOBELLO HOTEL NOTTING HILL, W11

In room 16, Kate Moss and Johnny Depp filled the Victorian bath with champagne; Alice Cooper kept his snakes in it; and Tim Burton flooded the room by leaping from the bed into the bath and back. The Stones, U2, Tina Turner and many other starry names, from music, fashion and show business, also stayed at The Portobello in its heyday. Now, more than 40 years after it first opened, it has been given a new lease of life by Peter and Jessica Frankopan of A Curious Group of Hotels, which includes Cowley Manor (see page 141), L’Hôtel in Paris and Canal House in Amsterdam. Today’s look encapsulates the hotel’s bohemian spirit and that famous bed and bath are still there, among many other items from the hotel’s decadent past. Rooms, however, have been brought forward and the decoration judiciously updated using bold colours.

Even the minute attic rooms have been cleverly enlarged. At The Portobello today, past and present mix happily together.

NAME TO KNOW... General manager Douglas Cooper, who knows everything.

Doubles from £195 +44 (0)20 7727 2777; portobellohotel.com 130 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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LONDON

THE PRINCIPAL LONDON BLOOMSBURY, WC1

Bloomsbury rolls to the beat of literary London.

Although just a hop and a skip from the spit and polish of Mayfair, it’s a little rougher around the edges and there’s a more eclectic mix of people, thanks to its abundant educational institutions. It’s also distinguished by a host of gorgeous garden squares and the latest hotel to land a prime position on one of them is The Principal London, flagship of the new group of hotels headed up by David Taylor of Hoxton and Edition renown, which opens in summer 2017. Occupying a fabulous Charles FitzroyDoll-designed building on Russell Square (just around the corner from the British Museum), interiors come courtesy of two of the hottest names in hotel design: Tara Bernerd and Russell Sage. It’s big (334 rooms and suites) but not intimidating and you can while away hours drinking coffee at Burr & Co., taking tea at Palm Court before moving on to cocktails at Fitz’s bar.

That is after you’ve discovered London’s literary and cultural heart on the doorstep.

NAME TO KNOW... Head bartender at Fitz’s bar, Sean Fennelly, who will ensure your evening is a tonic to remember.

Doubles from £329 +44 (0)20 7123 5000; theprincipalhotel.com/london

THE ROOKERY CLERKENWELL, EC1

Those in the know don’t lay their heads in W1, they head east to London’s most fashionable districts. Luckily, we know of secrets beyond the hipster clientele and tech geeks. One such hideaway is the deliciously individual Rookery.

Set in the heart of gastronomic Clerkenwell, where you can eat top-class grub and party hard, you can then retreat to one of its 33 quirky bedrooms, none of which are the same. Each, though, share gorgeous Georgian detailing, polished brass metalwork in bathrooms, antiques aplenty and bookshelves bulging with real books.

You won’t worry about wonky floors nor the lack of things like a spa or a gym, you’ll enjoy the calm and mannered atmosphere of a private club as you settle in the drawing room or in the perfectly formed courtyard garden, weather permitting, with the paper. On the doorstep? Well, you’re just moments away from St Paul’s Cathedral and then it’s only a walk over the wobbly bridge to Tate Modern. Just brilliant.

NAME TO KNOW... Rooms are all named, as they do not believe in numbering their guests. A particular favourite is the Mary Lane with its exposed beams and vaulted ceiling.

Doubles from £250 +44 (0)20 7336 0931; rookeryhotel.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 131

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

ROSEWOOD LONDON HOLBORN, WC1

Rosewood London combines English heritage with contemporary sophistication in the heart of the capital. The Grade II-listed, Belle Époque building has been sensitively renovated with the feel of a stylish London residence. The highlight of the interior is the Grand Pavonazzo marble staircase, which soars to a dizzying 166-foot high cupola. Other features include rare marble pillars and panels, and Cuban mahogany fittings. Two designers are responsible for the hotel’s fabulous look. Tony Chi created the splendid Rose Bronze Gallery entrance, the jewel box Mirror Room restaurant and 262 glamorous rooms and 44 suites. Martin Brudnizki designed Holborn Dining Room, a bustling British brasserie with reclaimed oak, red leather banquettes, innovative locally sourced cuisine and a trendy gin bar, and the wildly popular Scarfes Bar, its walls decorated with a collection of paintings by satirist Gerald Scarfe.

Every suite comes with a dedicated butler, and service throughout is as faultless as you’d expect.

NAME TO KNOW... Chief concierge, Ashley Harman, who knows London better than anybody and is a master at recommending places.

Doubles from £380 +44 (0)20 7781 8888; rosewoodhotels.com/london

THE SAVOY COVENT GARDEN, WC2

Its Art Deco front facing The Strand, its Edwardian back to the river, the iconic Savoy was Britain’s first luxury hotel. It was built in the 1880s by Richard D’Oyly Carte, who produced Gilbert and Sullivan operas at his Savoy Theatre next door. Now a Fairmontmanaged hotel, it underwent a multi-million pound restoration between 2007 and 2010, which not only restored its former glory but brought it bang up to date. The 267 gorgeous rooms and suites – some Edwardian, others Art Deco in style – hit all the right notes; the most romantic have views of the Thames. Its restaurants have always been integral to The Savoy and there has never been more choice than there is today, from the relaxed Kaspar’s Seafood Bar and Grill to Gordon Ramsay’s splendid Savoy Grill and the recently restored Simpson’s-in-the-Strand. Tea is served in the Thames Foyer, and cocktails in the legendary, louche American Bar or the glossy, black and gold Beaufort Bar. A hotel for the 21st century and still the byword for luxury.

NAME TO KNOW... Head butler, Sean Davoren, whose mantra is: ‘To meet a guest’s every need... as long as it’s legal.’ ‘No’ is not in his vocabulary.

Doubles from £450 +44 (0)20 7836 4343; fairmont.com/savoy-london 132 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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LONDON

THE SLOANE CLUB CHELSEA, SW1

A London home from home for legions of well-heeled country folk, The Sloane Club is as cosmopolitan as cucumber sandwiches and as hip as tea on the vicarage lawn, but also as calm, elegant, well-run and reassuringly welcoming as you could wish to find. A private members’ club in a fabulous location, it’s open for overnight stays in its comfortable bedrooms and new, very smart bathrooms, plus spoiling treatments in The Sloane Club Spa. Downstairs, you’ll find inviting sitting rooms and a splendid restaurant, both clubby and contemporary, which sparkles under its glass roof. Tuck in to the best of British food with your fellow diners: squires from the shires, perhaps a covey of vicars and boho daughters dining with their dads. In the morning, enjoy a generous breakfast in the garden room and inspect the dozens of affectionate caricatures of toffs at rest and play – with their dogs and guns, their G&Ts, their gardeners and their village fêtes. You are one of them now.

NAME TO KNOW... Sommelier Leandro, who has infinite knowledge of complementary pairings. Ask him to create a bespoke wine flight for your meal.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)20 7730 9131; sloaneclub.co.uk

THE STAFFORD LONDON ST JAMES’S, SW1

Tucked away in the heart of St James’s, The Stafford has history, hidden delights and personality, not least thanks to master sommelier Gino Nardella, head barman Benoit Provost and head concierge Frank Laino – all characters, all long serving. Its beautifully presented wine cellars are 380 years old and contain 8,000 bottles of the finest wines. It also has its own secret mews off St James’s, a wonderful spot for summertime meals and drinks on the cobbles.

It is here you will find both the gorgeous Mews Suites and the new Carriage House suites designed by Alexandra Champalimaud. Eat at newly opened The Game Bird for stylish British comfort food and drink at the adorable American Bar. Encrusted with mementos donated by guests, it was a favourite of US servicemen during the war and remains a bastion of the Manhattan, the Sidecar and the Martini.

And then there’s the tale of wartime heroine Nancy Wake... stay, and all will be revealed.

NAME TO KNOW... Master sommelier Gino, who has overseen The Stafford’s 380-year-old cellars wine cellars for over 40 years. Ask him for a private tour.

Doubles from £394 +44 (0)20 7493 0111; thestaffordlondon.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 133

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The Cotswolds You can’t fail to be seduced by its chocolate-box charm but there’s a lot more to the area than just its picture-postcard veneer

David J White, ‘The Manager and Dragon Hill’, Uffington, Oxfordshire, England (Landscape Photographer of the Year – Classic View 2008)

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It’s got to be all about the great outdoors.

There are endless trails to choose from, whether you fancy a potter or a serious hike.

Visit nationaltrail.co.uk/cotswold to find the ones to suit you.

The Cheltenham Festival heralds the start of the British Social Season. While it doesn’t have the pomp and ceremony of Ascot, it’s a serious sporting event and you can always wear a hat if you wish (but you may prefer a flatcap). thefestival.co.uk

SPRING

SUMMER If you’re visiting with children, don’t miss one of the Cotswolds’ loveliest attractions, Giffords Circus, a proper, old-fashioned, village green affair that travels from site to site. There’s not a gimmick in sight. giffordscircus.com

Four Seasons Cheese rolling and an old-fashioned circus to buying antiques and Prince Charles’ gorgeous gardens

The best place to see autumn leaves in all their orange, red and golden glory, Westonbirt Arboretum has over 15,000 tree specimens in around 600 acres, plus a host of annual events and workshops, from pop concerts to chair-making. forestry.gov.uk/westonbirt

AUTUMN How about a bit of autumn antique shopping?

We suggest you head to Tetbury for a browse and a buy – there are over 20 dealers in the centre of town, plus you can combine it with a private visit to Prince Charles’ fabulous Highgrove Gardens if you book in advance (until midOctober). highgrove gardens.com

Just as your typical Cotswolds villages are divine in summer, they’re just as compelling in winter even if you just stay in the car. Our favourites are Chipping Campden, a former wool trading centre, Bourton-on-the-Water, known for its model village and railway, and Bibury, said to be the most beautiful village in England by William Morris.

WINTER

Hunker down in one of the area’s loveliest pubs. To order a pint next to Kate Moss, head to the Swan at Southrop; for Prue Leith’s favourite foodie pub, head to The Fox Inn at Lower Oddington and for Laurie Lee’s old haunt, choose The Woolpack in Slad.

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK; REX FEATURES

Ever rolled a cheese down a hill?

Perhaps not, but each May health and safety goes out the window and runners hurtle down the exceedingly steep Cooper’s Hill in Gloucestershire after a 7lb Double Gloucester. You may well ask… cheese-rolling.co.uk

136 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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THE COTSWOLDS

Rapeseed fields

LIVE LIKE A LOCAL CHARLIE’S COTSWOLDS HOTSPOTS

FESTIVAL Broadway has the best food festival.

Only producers within 30 miles can take stalls and all the local chefs attend. broadway-cotswolds.co.uk/ food-festival

Anointing Oil

Meet Charlie Bedlam, one of the new breed of young farming entrepreneurs who is making a difference

What is Cotswold Gold? It’s a cold pressed

Charlie Bedlam

Where are you based? On the family farm just outside Broadway in the heart of The Cotswolds, where I grew up. I knew I’d never work in an office. I’m dyslexic and always wanted to come back to work on the farm but I had to find a point of difference, a way in which I could add value.

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK

What proved to be the answer to your dilemma? In my final year at Cirencester Agricultural College we were tasked with creating diversification projects and I looked at adding value to crops we were already growing. At the time we were growing rape, then for animal feed, but I saw the opportunity for creating a business on the farm producing rapeseed oil. It made sense, the business could run in parallel with the farm. And so Cotswold Gold was born.

extra-virgin rapeseed oil – the English equivalent of olive oil. A gleaming golden colour, it has a low acidity level and a light nutty flavour. It’s great for cooking because it has a high temperature point, or for adding to sauces or salad dressings. We also add various infusions – garlic, chilli, rosemary, basil or lemon.

How has the business grown? I started in 2010 at the age of 23. Back then we were using four per cent of the farm’s rapeseed. Now we use 40 per cent. It was crushed off the farm at the beginning but now I run three presses and act as a contract press for other producers.

What has been your biggest challenge?

Starting up and running a small business is not for the faint-hearted.

When you make mistakes you’re on your own but when it goes right, then you feel really proud. Getting our name out there and building the product into a brand that customers ask for has been tough.

What’s your favourite way of cooking with the oil? Nothing beats it for roasting potatoes. Heat the oil – plain or garlic infused – then add the potatoes.

I like to use Maris Piper and roast in a hot oven for about 45 minutes.

They come out crisp and gorgeous. cotswoldgold.co.uk

INGREDIENT Between April and mid-June I find locally grown asparagus everywhere.

Steam it lightly and dribble over a little lemon-infused Cotswold Gold – naturally – for a real treat.

PIT STOP Gloucester Services on the M5 between Junction 11A and Junction 1 sell local produce. It’s worth stopping off and, of course, they stock our oil! gloucesterservices.com

HOTEL Dormy House has a luxurious spa and really good locally sourced food.

There’s both a more formal restaurant and the more relaxed Potting Shed.

It’s a great treat. dormyhouse.co.uk

SHOP Robert Welch has a shop in Chipping Campden, which makes and sells superb cutlery, kitchen knives and cookware. robert welch.com

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THE COTSWOLDS

Pre-heat the oven to 170°C. Season the lamb shanks. Place a large casserole dish on a medium heat, add the oil and then the lamb. Colour the lamb all over until golden-brown, which will take about 8–10 mins, then remove from the dish onto a tray.

Cut the carrots, shallots and onions into 2½ cm pieces, keeping them separate. Add the butter to the oil in the casserole dish and, when it melts, add the carrot. Colour this up for five minutes then add the split garlic cloves and thyme. Keep colouring these up for a INGREDIENTS few more minutes, then add the shallot, onion, SERVES FOUR one teaspoon of salt and » 4 lamb shanks a few turns of pepper. » 150ml vegetable oil After another » 6 large carrots, peeled » 5 banana shallots, 5–8 minutes, when peeled the vegetables are » 4 onions, peeled all coloured, turn the » 25g butter » 8 cloves garlic, peeled heat down and add the and split in half tomato paste. Cook for » 2-3 sprigs fresh thyme a further two minutes, » 20g tomato paste » 20g plain flour then add the flour and » 1 litre white chicken stock cook again for two more » 6 plum tomatoes, minutes. Add the stock quartered » 60g pearl barley and tomatoes, turn the heat up and bring FOR THE HONEY this to a slow simmer.

ROAST GARLIC » 100 ml olive oil Skim off the scum. » 20g unsalted butter Add the pearl barley » 3 whole bulbs garlic, and the lamb back to split in half » 1 small sprig fresh thyme the casserole dish. Cover » 40g clear honey and cook in the oven for 2½ hours.

Meanwhile, you can make your honey-roast garlic.

Place a small sauté pan on a very low heat. Add the olive oil and butter and, when the butter has just melted, add the garlic, cut-side down, with the thyme.

Add a little salt and then cook very slowly until the garlic starts to colour. After about 15 minutes, add the honey and keep cooking until the garlic is soft (approximately 15 to 20 minutes).

Once the lamb is cooked, serve a shank on each plate with some of the pearl barley and vegetables, and a half garlic bulb.

Lambing Season Whether cooked traditionally or with a modern twist, Cotswold lamb is a great treat, says Tom Aikens

BRAISED LAMB SHANKS WITH PEARL BARLEY AND HONEY ROAST GARLIC

I love this dish because it’s very simple. Everything is cooked in one pot, so you get the lovely flavour of the lamb combining with the aromatic vegetables and the braised pearl barley. This is very much a sharing dish for family and friends.

Tom Aikens

Extracted from The Really Quite Good British Cookbook (Nourish Books, £25)

PHOTOS: LIZZIE MAYSON

METHOD

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The LaLiT London is an exceptional new luxury boutique hotel, restaurant and spa located in a spectacular Grade II-listed property, a stone’s throw from London’s Tower Bridge

181 Tooley Street, London SE1 2JR | +44 (0) 20 3765 0000 | london@thelalit.com

thelalit.com/the-lalit-london

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

BARNSLEY HOUSE NR CIRENCESTER, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

If you dream of somewhere not too large, but not too small, somewhere effortlessly chic yet close to nature; if you fancy a hotel with a discreet spa, an intimate cinema and a famous garden, then look no further than this gorgeous Cotswold retreat. The handsome 17th-century manor house, surrounded by the complex yet natural garden created by renowned horticulturist Rosemary Verey, has never looked more stunning since it became sister hotel to the admirable Calcot in 2009 (see below). No two bedrooms are the same, but all are cool and comfortable, blending classy furniture and state-of-the-art facilities (such as home cinema surround sound and plasma screens in the bathrooms) that blend with traditional elements like old beams, stone fireplaces and wooden floors. As for the lovely Potager Restaurant, elegant, fresh and unfussy food is served in a cleverly mirrored white and cucumber green room, which leads to a pretty terrace overlooking that entrancing garden.

NAME TO KNOW... Head gardener Richard Gatenby. Ask him how the five-year restoration project of the iconic laburnum walk is progressing.

Doubles from £209 +44 (0)1285 740000; barnsleyhouse.com

CALCOT MANOR NR TETBURY, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

Calcot suits many events – honeymoons, family gatherings, celebrations, spa breaks, country weekends – with equal success. With its roots going back to the 14th century and Cistercian times, the present stone manor became a hotel in 1984. Since then, the surrounding farm buildings have been revived and brought into appropriate play over the years: Calcot is brilliant at moving with the times. Today, it has 35 guest rooms, refreshed and reinvigorated, a gorgeous spa, The Barn for private events, an Ofsted-registered crèche and two restaurants.

Rooms in the manor house are designed with couples in mind, while family rooms and suites are housed in converted cottages and barns; deluxe suites come with their own private garden. As well as the the open fire cooking of The Gumstool Inn, the hotel’s principal restaurant, The Conservatory, cuts a scintillating dash for more of an occasion. The sweeping, open-plan space is a buzzing, easy-going, all-day arena, with a diverse menu to match.

NAME TO KNOW... The spa’s Francesca Rowland, who is Calcot’s guru on anti-ageing and can advise on skincare dos and don’ts.

Doubles from £209 +44 (0)1666 890391; calcot.co 140 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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COWLEY MANOR CHELTENHAM, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

From the outside, it’s a stunning Italianate manor house in classical lake and cascade-filled grounds; inside, a flawlessly hip hotel, with 21stcentury good looks. And although the style is cool, the welcome is warm from the ever-helpful staff. After checking into your state-of-the-art room – in six categories with plenty for families – you can while away time playing pool in the padded leather Billiards Room, drinking in the funky bar or relaxing on the elegant stone terrace, a suntrap with fabulous views.

If you’re inclined to go walking, there are wellies by the front door, or bicycles for those who want to feel the wind in their hair.

Although the restaurant, Malt, is a magnificent panelled room, the atmosphere is relaxed and the menus (including for children) concentrate on honest, seasonal British food. Star of the show, however, is the modernist spa, C-Side, and its two pools. Contemporary bliss-out and stone grandeur, seamlessly blended. Cowley Manor has never looked or felt better.

NAME TO KNOW... Chef James Graham, who always forages around the grounds.

Ask him what to look for while out walking.

Doubles from £195 +44 (0)1242 870900; cowleymanor.com

ELLENBOROUGH PARK CHELTENHAM, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

An outstanding address on the outskirts of Cheltenham, Ellenborough Park is an immaculately restored, sumptuous Cotswold stone manor. Parts date back to 1500, bristling with turrets and towers. In the 1830s, it was home to Lord Ellenborough, who became Governor-General of India. The feel of the Great Hall and the Minstrels’ Gallery recalls the exoticism of India and the scandalous behaviour of Ellenborough’s beautiful wife Jane Digby.

The designer responsible for reinventing the interior is the masterly Nina Campbell, whose 61 classically English bedrooms are furnished with antiques and heavenly beds. In the Beaufort Dining Room, the service is discreet and the food contemporary, sophisticated and delicious, while in the relaxed Brasserie, it’s classic British and Cotswold based. There’s also an outdoor pool, an intimate spa and a private path leading to Cheltenham Racecourse. During race meetings, where better to stay?

NAME TO KNOW... One of the concierges Jonathan Bennett, who is the hotel’s very own historian. With a wealth of knowledge on Ellenborough, ask him for a guided tour.

Doubles from £159 +44 (0)1242 807720; ellenboroughpark.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 141

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE FEATHERED NEST NETHER WESTCOTE, OXFORDSHIRE

A beacon among the new breed of converted inns, the Feathered Nest is as comfortable, stylish and well-equipped as a fine hotel, but smaller and more relaxed. Attractively laid out and furnished, it reflects the passion and professionalism of its owners, Tony and Amanda Timmer. The four countrified bedrooms (Cuckoo’s Den, Cockerel’s Roost, Pheasant Nest and Dove Cote) perfectly blend the practical with the luxurious, kitted out with Nespresso coffee machines, gleaming antiques, DVDs, books and magazines.

And waking to the breathtaking view of the Evenlode Valley is guaranteed to soothe even the most frazzled nerves. In the rustic chic dining room or outside on the shady terrace, the modern British food is as impressive as the bedrooms. Wherever possible, head chef Kuba Winkowski sources ingredients locally, and his menus change with the seasons. Tony wins awards for his wine list, which reflects his interest in ‘boutique’ growers.

NAME TO KNOW... Carl at the bar, who will tell you anything you want to know about his hops, malts and barleys.

Doubles from £245 +44 (0)1993 833030; thefeatherednestinn.co.uk

THE KINGHAM PLOUGH CHIPPING NORTON, OXFORDSHIRE

Who can resist popping into a traditional English pub on a village green? Upon entering The Kingham Plough, you would think so far, so traditional – there’s real ale on tap, real locals on the wooden benches, Scotch eggs and chips on the blackboard menu, and steak and kidney pie on the specials. Except, there’s a twist – dining here is not your typical pub, or gastro-pub, fare. Co-owner Emily Watkins, formerly with Heston Blumenthal at the Fat Duck, is in the kitchen with numerous awards under her belt. Foodies flock here for her highly creative interpretations of bygone British dishes, often based on old Cotswold recipes and inspired by local produce. They then stay for the relaxed and welcoming atmosphere she and her husband, Miles Lampson, have maintained throughout the pub – in the bar and dining room, as well as the charming bedrooms upstairs, which are all equipped with hotelstyle comforts. Eat well, sleep well.

NAME TO KNOW... Front of house manager, Michal. Ask him for a wine recommendation, his knowledge is second to none.

Doubles from £145 +44 (0)1608 658327; thekinghamplough.co.uk 142 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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LORDS OF THE MANOR UPPER SLAUGHTER, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

In a dreamy mellow stone village, surrounded by undulating woods, formal gardens and parkland overlooking lake and sheep-grazed fields, the Lords of the Manor is one of the Cotswold’s most luxurious hotels. It’s also one of its most gastronomic, having held a Michelin star for eight consecutive years. Whether you regard the handsome manor house – parts of which dates from the mid-17th century – as a hotel with a notable restaurant, or a restaurant with delightful rooms (26 of them, with either village or garden views and soft lighting), you will appreciate the gentle, quietly indulgent experience of staying here, looked after by staff who are efficient, kind and unfailingly polite.

As for the food, expect wonderful tasting menus from head chef Charles Smith, who creates inspired seasonal dishes and cites Wye Valley asparagus as his favourite summer ingredient. At breakfast, don’t miss the Burford Brown eggs, poached, boiled or fried.

NAME TO KNOW... Concierge Andy, who is something of a legend at Lords. Everyone benefits from his unrivalled knowledge of the hotel and surrounding area.

Doubles from £195 +44 (0)1451 820243; lordsofthemanor.com

NO.38 THE PARK CHELTENHAM, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

As well as The Wheatsheaf in Northleach (see page 146), the brilliant Lucky Onion hotel and pub collection possesses not one but two fabulous addresses (see No.131 on page 144) in vibrant, elegant Cheltenham. Tucked into a discreetly genteel and leafy part of town, this fine Georgian house has been converted into a 13-room B&B (dine at No. 131). Here, everything is sexy and textured, from over-stuffed, velvet-padded headboards and mohair throws to over-sized lamps and vast log baskets. Bathrooms are heaven, with underfloor heating, freestanding zinc baths and some boast double showers. The attention to detail is outstanding and the turn-down the best ever: you’ll find a hot water bottle under your duvet and a mini flask of milk with chocolate dipping sticks. Breakfast in the contemporary light-filled dining room is equally original: devilled kidneys or smashed avocado, bulgur wheat and poached egg. Berocca tablets even sit in a jar on the buffet for an instant hangover cure.

NAME TO KNOW... General manager Lee Anna and her dog Peggie. With her extensive knowledge of food and drink in Cheltenham, her recommendations are fabulous.

Doubles from £110 +44 (0)1242 822929; theluckyonion.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 143

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

NO.131 CHELTENHAM, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

The hip place to stay in Cheltenham, No.131 is a restaurant with rooms that opened in 2013 in a white-stucco Georgian villa. It was rescued from dereliction by husband and wife duo, Sam and Georgie Pearman, dedicated, talented hoteliers who also own The Wheatsheaf at Northleach (see page 146) and No.38 The Park, also in Cheltenham (see page 143). The Pearmans refurbished No.131 with flair, paying particular attention to detail but never forgetting its 18thcentury heritage. The elegance of the upstairs restaurant is complemented by the relaxed buzz of the downstairs restaurant and bar, Crazy Eights. Food is seasonal and mainly organic, from a menu that focuses on prime cuts of outstanding local beef and fresh seafood.

Georgie’s bedrooms, in three different categories, are heavenly cocoons with glorious Egyptian cotton linen on divine beds, original British paintings, reconditioned antique radiators and, in some, Rogeat Lyon baths. Nothing has been overlooked – not even hot water bottles.

NAME TO KNOW... Head chef Alan Gleeson, whose passion for food – its seasonality and origins – is second to none.

Doubles from £110 +44 (0)1242 822939; theluckyonion.com

THE PAINSWICK PAINSWICK, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

A glorious combination of eclecticism, heavenly food and creature comforts, all set in one of the Cotswolds’ prettiest towns. Renovated and launched by the new owners, The Calcot Collection, in spring 2016, it has been transformed into a relaxingly chic haven with ace cuisine and fabulous views over the Slad valley.

The Calcot Collection are masters at the art of creating laid-back luxury, having developed Calcot (see page 140), Barnsley House (see page 140) and the Lord Crewe Arms at Blanchland (see page 184). Now they’ve worked their magic on this 18th-century mansion, conjuring an arty, subtly funky feel in the sitting rooms and furnishing the 16 bedrooms in soothing tones and characteristic attention to detail. The Painswick is billed as a restaurant with rooms, so expect a strong focus on delicious food: menus are brilliantly inventive and wonderfully seasonal.

Breakfast in the sunny restaurant is a delight too; don’t miss the zinging apple and ginger tonic.

NAME TO KNOW... Head barman Dan Smolarek. Ask him to suggest his favourite cocktail, which says all you need to know about Painswick.

Doubles from £129 +44 (0)1452 813688; thepainswick.co.uk 144 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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THE COTSWOLDS

THE SHEEP ON SHEEP STREET STOW-ON-THE-WOLD, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

In the heart of beautiful Stow on the Wold, The Sheep is a fine example of Brakspear’s elegantly updated inns. With 22 homely bedrooms, it now manages to be a traditional, warm and hearty inn yet with a fresh, contemporary, Soho House feel. Like most of the buildings in Stow, the inn dates back to the 17th century, while the cool blue and green tones of its 2016 refurbishment lend a welcome splash of colour, freshness and modernity. Nowadays, The Sheep draws in guests from near and far and it’s easy to see why: there’s an immediately open atmosphere, perfect for relaxed dining for parties, large or small, all the while looking on to the open kitchen and wood-burning oven under soft lighting. The Sheep also ticks the boxes in summer, with a sun-trap outdoor dining area built around a feature fireplace.

Here’s a rural home-from-home that will soften even the hardest of city-dwelling hearts.

NAME TO KNOW... Resident bartender and talented mixologist Robin Stransky. Order a seasonal cocktail using Robin’s blends of fresh juices and local ingredients.

Doubles from £90 +44 (0)1451 830344; thesheepstow.co.uk

THYME SOUTHROP MANOR ESTATE, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

Paradise in glorious Cotswold countryside, Thyme offers luxurious, flexible accommodation in a collection of fine stone buildings. It’s classy, understated and far more than just a hotel. Food is its raison d’être, with first-class chefs, a highly regarded cookery school and produce from its own kitchen farm and gardens. Breakfast is in the stunning Tithe Barn: lunch and dinner in The Swan, Thyme’s charming restaurant and village pub, while The Baa is equally stylish for coffee, lunch, tea or botanical cocktails.

Pamper yourself with a range of Aurelia facials and body rituals in the new spa, opening this year. Rooms (‘Cosy’, ‘Elegant’ or ‘Divine’) are found in the exquisitely renovated Farmhouse, Lodge and Courtyard buildings, all decorated with great attention to detail and furnished with every conceivable comfort. For more independence, go for one of the two cottages (if you are bringing children and dogs, Old Walls welcomes both).

NAME TO KNOW... Seek out chef, gardener and beekeeper Daryll Taylor in the cookery school. Talk to him about the food ethos.

Doubles from £270 +44 (0)1367 850174; thyme.co.uk 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 145

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

WHATLEY MANOR HOTEL & SPA MALMESBURY, WILTSHIRE

This beautiful Cotswold country manor hotel, set in 12 acres of gorgeous English gardens, makes a popular choice for Londoners who crave a sybaritic weekend away (and a haven for grown ups – no children under 12). Close to the quaint market town of Malmesbury, it offers 23 individually designed, luxuriously furnished rooms, in warm colours, with a mix of antique and contemporary furniture and sound and vision by Bang & Olufsen. Unwind in the Aquarias Spa, where features include an indoor/outdoor hydrotherapy pool, a series of heated relaxation experiences and spoiling treatments. Relax in the 26 stunning garden areas or watch a film in the 40-seat cinema.

There’s a refreshing lack of pomp in The Dining Room, where new executive chef Niall Keating’s innovative, seasonal cooking draws inspiration from many different cuisines including Korean, Japanese and classic French. His outstanding creativity is on display with every dish.

NAME TO KNOW... Executive chef, Niall.

Ask him if you can visit the kitchen, he loves to welcome guests.

Doubles from £350 +44 (0)1666 822888; whatleymanor.com

THE WHEATSHEAF INN NORTHLEACH, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

This stylishly decorated former coaching inn serves as a hub for the local community around handsome Northleach. It combines an informal, warmly welcoming atmosphere, courtesy of its delightful, dynamic owners Sam and Georgie Pearman, with the attributes of a fully fledged hotel, including glamorous private dining room, relaxing sitting room, charmingly rustic treatment room and English bath and body range, 100 Acres, in every bathroom. Locals crowd into the Game Bar for coffees, drinks and light meals, or dine under the beady eyes of the doughty Wills tobacco family, whose early 20thcentury portraits, bought at auction, decorate one wall of the dining room, gleaming with polished wood. The 14 bedrooms, imaginatively decorated by Georgie herself, are beautifully equipped, with deeply comfy Hypnos beds, Egyptian cotton linens, lovely wallpapers from Lewis & Wood and original artworks. As for head chef Devon Boyce’s locally sourced, simple rustic food, it doesn’t miss a beat.

NAME TO KNOW... Peter Creed, the country director. He puts you at ease and knows The Wheatsheaf and surrounding area inside out.

Doubles from £95 +44 (0)1451 860244; theluckyonion.com 146 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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THE COTSWOLDS

THE WILD RABBIT KINGHAM, OXFORDSHIRE

Heralded by two endearing, floppy-eared topiary bunnies flanking the entrance, The Wild Rabbit is both a Cotswold hotspot and a haven of eco-elegance. Just a few fields away from sister enterprise Daylesford, the organic farm shop, café, deli and Bamford Haybarn Spa – the wellness retreat of Carole Bamford, it draws wellheeled locals and weekenders in equal measure to meet, eat, party, chill and – if they want – bed down for the night in great comfort. The moment you step inside, the mellow space invites instant relaxation with open fires, comfy sofas and armchairs. The restaurant – think boho-chic farmhouse kitchen – lies behind, with its pewterhung dresser, long wooden tables and busy chefs in view. Tim Allen is the culinary mastermind and his food takes diners on a gourmet taste adventure. This Wild Rabbit is sophisticated, convivial and informal and the 12 bedrooms and three cottages – symphonies in designer cream and taupe – are sanctums of rustic-chic.

NAME TO KNOW... Executive chef Tim Allen, who won a Michelin star in October. He can answer your questions about all the delicious and nutritious ingredients on your plate.

Doubles from £175 +44 (0)1608 658389; thewildrabbit.co.uk

WOOLLEY GRANGE BRADFORD ON AVON, WILTSHIRE

A fine Jacobean manor house with 18th-century additions, Woolley Grange is part of the Luxury Family Hotels group. The hotel’s wood-panelled interior – all open fires, antique furnishings, artwork – is impressive but not a showpiece.

Children and dogs are positively welcomed and couldn’t be catered for better. The 14acre garden is one big adventure playground, sporting a climbing frame, fishing pond, heated outdoor swimming pool (in summer) and much more. There’s also an indoor pool, the Woolley Bears Den children’s club and Hen House, filled with games galore. Adult treats include a croquet lawn and a luxurious spa, roaring log fires in the winter and a relaxed tea or champagne terrace in the summer. The bedrooms are not just family friendly but also full of character.

After high tea at 5pm followed by play time in the garden, tuck the children up, don your glad rags and head for a superb, sophisticated dinner, prepared using fresh produce from the kitchen garden and the best local suppliers.

NAME TO KNOW... Head gardener, beekeeper and head of the gardening club, Eliza. Ask her what’s going on in the garden today.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1225 864705; woolleygrangehotel.co.uk 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 147

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Mid Country Once at the forefront of the industrial revolution, these gracious counties are often overlooked – but at your peril, we say. You’ll find some of the most beautiful and least populated places to visit in peace and tranquility

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Scott Wilson, ‘Rojo’, near Mansfield, Nottinghamshire (Landscape Photographer of the Year – Your View 2012)

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS Forgo the long-haul flight to Kyoto and head to the Japanese gardens at the Birmingham Botanical Gardens instead. The Cherry Blossom Festival in March is not to be missed. bbgardens.org

Toast England’s finest stone town – 2017 marks the 50th anniversary of Stamford’s award as Britain’s first urban conservation area. New town trails, talks and events will take place in and round town this summer, along with the creation of a themed beer.

SPRING Pay tribute to the Bard on his birthday at Shakespeare’s Birthplace Trust in Stratfordupon-Avon, where you can tread the floorboards of the home where he was born and admire the gardens of Anne Hathaway’s cottage. shakespeare.org.uk

SUMMER

Pig out on Melton Mowbray’s most famous export at the Great British Festival of Pies, held in the town centre each March.

Pitch up for Also festival in June, which brings debate to the Capability Brown-designed gardens of Park Farm, Compton Verney, an 18th-century mansion in Warwickshire. also-festival. com

Four Seasons Shakespeare country and conker competitions, the home of ceramics to Atlantic seals

Wax lyrical at Newstead Abbey, Nottinghamshire, the ancestral home of Lord Byron.

The grounds of this historic house make for a perfect picnic spot in the summer, just mind the peacocks. newsteadabbey.org.uk

Witness a wildlife show like no other at Donna Nook nature reserve, Lincolnshire. Each year between November and December, a colony of grey Atlantic seals deliver their pups in the dunes. lincstrust. org.uk

Follow the ceramics trail in Stoke-on-Trent, an area that has been shaped by the pottery industry for over 200 years.

The renowned British Ceramics Biennial, showcases emerging talent at the historic Spode factory between September and November. britishceramicsbiennial.com

AUTUMN

Walk the shores of Rutland Water to Normanton church, which was saved from certain destruction by the community in 1970 when plans to flood the area were set into motion. Thankfully, the structure still stands, appearing to float on the water from a distance – it’s the stuff of fairytales in the winter.

Hard-nut players go head to head at the World Conker Championships in Southwick, Northamptonshire.

The 52-year-old event takes place on the second Sunday in October. worldconkerchampionships.com

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK; VISITBRITAIN

Celebrate National Cheese Week in September at Chatsworth, Derbyshire, which hosts talks and tastings in its farm shop. chatsworth.org

WINTER

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MID COUNTRY

Julian finds baking inspiration in the past

LIVE LIKE A LOCAL JULIAN’S DOORSTOP BLOOMERS

RESTAURANT Hambleton Hall on the shores of Rutland Water where Julian once cooked, still serving the best food in the area. hambletonhall.com

Rising Star

Meet Julian Carter who bakes with passion, integrity and an eye for the future at Hambleton Bakery years, we have had to spread our wings and source further afield as the local Whissendine Mill can’t supply all our needs but you have to supplement English with French flour as our flour lacks the protein. It just isn’t hard enough to make really good bread.

Where do you find your recipes?

Julian Carter

How long ago did you start Hambleton Bakery?

In 2008, since then we’ve grown from myself, two staff and a rickety old van to a team of 69.

Why did you start the business? I’ve always been fascinated by bread, I was a sous chef at nearby Hambleton Hall and made the bread there, so when I decided to leave and start a bakery – my dream – Tim Hart, Hambleton Hall’s owner, started the business with me.

What do you think is the secret of your success?

Never compromise on quality. I want everyone to be prepared to pay. Eat less but eat better is what I say. We use the best ingredients sourced locally whenever possible, so the money stays in the local economy. Our cheese, for example, comes from a local farm who rear Red Poll cattle, the native breed. We don’t use additives or improvers and if we do use machinery, we make sure that it is as an aid rather than dictating the process. Over the

There are ten generations of bakers in my family and I‘ve always believed that you should look back to go forward. Elizabeth David and her magnificent book on bread did half the work for me, and from her I learnt about all kinds of long forgotten rolls and buns that we have reintroduced, plus others we are inventing.

What are your favourite products? Our Rutland Shuttle apparently hasn’t been made since the 1800s. It’s a yeast leavened bun enriched with butter and currants and flavoured with ginger and caraway seeds. Oval-shaped and large enough to fill a hand, the shape mimics the shuttle used by the weavers in the Vale of Belvoir. Then we make Manchets – light and fluffy white rolls, proper muffins that are now really popular for brunch – and the Rutland Pippin, an apple-shaped crusty dough filled with ham hock, sausage meat, Colston Bassett Stilton and a handmade Bramley apple purée. You can’t get much more local than that! hambletonbakery.co.uk

PUB The Olive Branch, an awardwinning gastropub that grows its own vegetables and herbs and makes a point of sourcing locally. theolivebranchpub.com

BEER The Grainstore Brewery in Oakham, which brews a variety of beers on site, including the legendary Rutland Panther. grainstorebrewery.com

MARKET Oakham Farmers Market brings the local farmers, growers and producers into the centre of town in Gaol Street on the third Saturday of each month.

PRODUCE Belvoir Ridge Creamery, where the Hewson’s Red Poll cattle produce great milk and the soft, almost curdlike Colwick cheese that can also be ripened. belvoirridgecreamery. wordpress.com

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MID COUNTRY

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

Pre-heat oven to 160°C fan. Line the baking » 225g soft margarine, tin with baking paper. plus extra for greasing Make the topping first » 4 cooking apples, peeled, cored and by putting sliced apples thickly sliced in a bowl and adding » 80g clear honey, plus honey and cinnamon. extra to drizzle » 3 heaped tsp ground Mix until apples are cinnamon well coated. Set aside. » 225g caster sugar Using an electric » 275g self-raising flour » 4 eggs mixer, beat margarine, sugar, flour, baking powder and eggs for two minutes on full speed. Pour into prepared tin, then lay the honey and cinnamon covered apple slices in rows on top of the batter.

Bake on a baking sheet for 40–50 minutes or until golden and cooked through – test this by prodding the cake with a skewer: if it comes out clean, it’s ready. Cover with tinfoil if the top is getting too brown.

Remove from the oven and allow to cool in its tin. Once cool, carefully lift out, remove the paper and place on a cooling rack. Slice before or after you do this, and drizzle generously with honey.

Hot Cakes Beekeeper Mary Case has a delicious use for leftover apples

GRANNY’S HONEY AND APPLE CAKE

When a recipe calls for cooking apples, Bramleys are everybody’s favourite. Apparently the first tree was grown from pips planted by Mary Ann Brailsford in her garden in Southwell, Nottinghamshire in 1809.

The tree survives and still bears fruit, the house is marked with a plaque and there is even an annual Bramley Apple Festival in the town in October.

Mary Case

Recipe extracted from The Really Quite Good British Cookbook (Watkins Media, £25)

PHOTOS: LIZZIE MAYSON

SERVES FOUR

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9 WA LTON ST R EET, LO NDO N SW 3 2JD

T EL: 020 7225 1011

C H E L S E A H AR B OU R , GRO UND FLO O R , DESIGN CENT R E EA ST

T EL: 020 7352 9518

W W W.N INAC AMPB ELL.CO M

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

BARNSDALE LODGE OAKHAM, RUTLAND

On the north shore of Rutland Water, Barnsdale Lodge makes an exceptional base for exploring the area, whether by foot, boat or bike. Formerly a farmhouse, it stands on the Exton Park estate of the Earls of Gainsborough, and was converted by the Honourable Thomas Noel in 1989. Today it’s run with great passion by managing director Ed Burrows and, for the quality of the rooms, food and location, represents superb value for money. The 46 bedrooms are individually furnished with views of the countryside or on to the pretty courtyard garden that lends the hotel both charm and a sense of spaciousness.

The ground floor is engaging, warm and welcoming, with a long, cosy flagstone hallway with original cast iron stove; picture-filled, warm red sitting room; conservatory dining room; relaxing garden room, perfect for a coffee or drinks, and another dining room that has a clubby feel fit for the hotel’s aristocratic owner. A terrific address.

NAME TO KNOW... Member of the restaurant team Roberto Pinto, who always offers guests a warm Portugese welcome and knows the wine list like the back of his hand.

Doubles from £100 +44 (0)1572 724678; barnsdalelodge.co.uk

THE CAVENDISH HOTEL BASLOW, DERBYSHIRE

For a warm Derbyshire welcome, gracious bedrooms and an exceptional setting, this 250-year-old coaching inn, overlooking the Chatsworth Estate, ticks all the boxes. Stroll across fields dotted with Limousin cows, and stately parkland, to the great house, resplendent after its restoration with gleaming scrubbed sandstone, gilded windows and carvings.

The Duke of Devonshire owns the Cavendish Hotel, which is run by Peak Hotel Management, maintaining personal touches: marmalade to take home; walls crammed with pictures and a divinely glamorous chef’s table amid the bustle of the kitchen. In the elegant dining room, head chef Alan Hill’s admirably fresh and simple cooking mixes classic French cuisine with a modern English twist – don’t miss his Dorset crab mayonnaise served with chicory or his mum’s recipe for lemon tart. One thing is for certain, once ensconced in this fine building in beautiful surroundings, you won’t want to leave.

NAME TO KNOW... Tim Kirby, the hotel porter, who has been at The Cavendish for over 30 years.

There isn’t much he doesn’t know about the hotel, Chatsworth estate and surrounding area.

Doubles from £215 +44 (0)1246 582311; cavendish-hotel.net 154 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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MID COUNTRY

HAMBLETON HALL OAKHAM, RUTLAND

Of all the luxury British country-house hotels that have opened in the last half-century, just one, Hambleton Hall, has remained impervious to fortune and is as fresh, magical and enveloping as the day its owners, Tim and Stefa Hart, first welcomed guests nearly 35 years ago.

Contented but never complacent, it offers no more than sophisticated yet deeply comfortable classic English interiors, the brilliant locally sourced cooking of Michelin-starred chef Aaron Patterson, and a joyous wine list curated by revered sommelier Dominique Baduel. There’s a swimming pool, tennis court, kitchen garden and views across Hambleton’s south- facing terrace and formal gardens that catch the breath.

The house surveys Rutland Water, perfect for all manner of activities such as fishing and bird watching. After an afternoon in the fresh air, Hambleton’s many aficionados return to their haven. For absolute peace, take the wonderful new croquet pavilion 40 metres from the house.

NAMES TO KNOW... Sommelier Dominique Baduel, for his wine cellar tour, and head gardener, Rob Skinner, for anything and everything to do with the gorgeous garden.

Doubles from £290 +44 (0)1572 756991; hambletonhall.com

HAMPTON MANOR HAMPTON-IN-ARDEN, WEST MIDLANDS

Give yourselves a treat and spend a night or two at this brilliant address. Run by a creative, hard-working and determined young couple, with an equally motivated team behind them, Hampton Manor is refreshingly full of life and imagination. In the vein of The Pig hotels, James and Fjona Hill have created a place that’s laid back, fun and full of stylish, thoughtful touches, including spoiling bedrooms. There’s spacious and glamorous The Parlour, where you can indulge in a memorable afternoon tea or sip an inventive cocktail, while Michelin-starred Peel’s restaurant is set in a gem of a panelled dining room, decorated with beautiful handpainted Fromental wallpaper, with food to match. Staff are dressed casually in chinos and tweed waistcoats... indeed it’s the little touches that count: firepits on the terrace; a Lalani & Co tea bar; handsome waiters who are funny too; spirited room information; spa treatments.

All in all, Hampton Manor is the business.

NAME TO KNOW... General manager Craig, who helps guests make the Manor their home. Ask him about his recent trip to Dom Pérignon in Champagne, France.

Doubles from £190 +44 (0)1675 446080; hamptonmanor.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 155

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

HART’S NOTTINGHAM

It was in 1997 that Tim and Stefa Hart, owners of the sublime Hambleton Hall (see page 155), transformed the old A&E department of Nottingham’s former Victorian hospital into Hart’s Restaurant. Refurbished in 2015, it is a light and airy space serving superb modern British dishes with a cosy bar area.

Next to the restaurant is Hart’s hotel, purposebuilt in 2003, with striking lines, curved buttresses, a dashing yet welcoming lobby and softly furnished, light-filled residents’ bar.

Bedrooms are faultlessly equipped, with high ceilings and plenty of natural light. Eight have private terraces, and all but eight inward-facing rooms present an unexpected surprise and a great bonus: far-flung views across the city to the countryside beyond. In the foreground: remarkable The Park residential estate, begun by the Duke of Newcastle in the 1820s and preserved today. In the distance: the cooling towers of the Ratcliffe-on-Soar power station.

NAME TO KNOW... Sally Martin, the weddings and events manager, who has been a vital asset to the team since 1999. She divides her spare time between her family and wine training.

Doubles from £134 +44 (0)1159 881900; hartsnottingham.co.uk

LANGAR HALL NOTTINGHAM

Langar Hall was the creation of Imogen Skirving.

Over 26 years, she transformed her apricotwashed Georgian house, in the family since 1860, into an instantly likeable home from home that perfectly mixed personality with country house charm. Though Imogen died, aged 78, last year, all is not lost: she lives on – in the terrific portrait of her in the gracious, pillared hall and in her granddaughter Lila, who, aged just 22, has taken over and is making sure that nothing, including the vibrant atmosphere, has changed. The food (‘classic English with a twist’) from long-standing executive chef Gary Booth is better than ever, and Michael, the maître d’, remains an integral part of Langar’s appeal. With 13 adorable bedrooms, the house stands next to the village church, surrounded by a mature garden and overlooking medieval carp ponds. Imogen’s aim was to allow her magical house to survive in to the 21st century... it continues to do so.

NAME TO KNOW... Head chef Ross Jeffery, who started cooking when he was 14.

He’s hugely talented, dedicated and passionate, and is responsible for the exciting dishes on Langar Hall’s menu.

Doubles from £100 +44 (0)1949 860559; langarhall.com 156 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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MID COUNTRY

THE OLIVE BRANCH CLIPSHAM, RUTLAND

On the edge of a neat stone village, this charmingly rustic pub was created from three farm labourers’ cottages that were bought and revived in 1999 by friends and colleagues from Hambleton Hall (see page 155). They have been remarkably successful, winning many accolades, and Sean Hope and Ben Jones continue to run their oasis of good food and good living with aplomb, the homely mix of antique and pine furniture, open fires, logs piled high, books, blackboards and wine bottles lending a laid-back vibe.

As well as terrific versions of pub classics, there are plenty of innovative dishes on Sean’s menus, and the food is wholesome and delicious. In winter, eat lunch by the fire; in summer, order an imaginatively stocked picnic basket and take it to Rutland Water.

Opposite the pub, in the pretty Georgian Beech House, are six bedrooms, all different but equally captivating. Breakfast is served in an attractively decorated barn next door.

NAME TO KNOW... One of the chefs Chris, who hosts kitchen masterclasses and gives tours of the kitchen paddock.

Doubles from £115 +44 (0)1780 410355; theolivebranchpub.com

THE PEACOCK AT ROWSLEY ROWSLEY, DERBYSHIRE

With charmingly eclectic decoration, The Peacock is a hybrid: part fishing inn (on the River Wye); part serious hotel (well-trained staff); part hip hangout (it has sheltered Keira Knightley and Scarlett Johansson). Once the dower house for Haddon Hall, it was built in 1652 and has been a hotel since 1820. Today, it combines modern luxuries with a sense of the family history of its owner, Lord Edward Manners, including delightful sketches of the great and the good of the day by Lord Edward’s great grandmother. Put the hotel into context by visiting captivating Haddon Hall, and then return to the Peacock, whose bedrooms are delightful and the food outstanding. Chef Dan Smith’s creative and beautifully presented dishes are served both in the handsome restaurant and the more intimate Wye Room, with simpler food in the atmospheric traditional bar. The hotel’s aim is to make everyone feel at home, and it does.

NAME TO KNOW... Dan Smith, head chef, who you should ask about his favourite seasonal ingredients as each dish served uses quality, local – where possible – produce.

Doubles from £205 +44 (0)1629 733518; thepeacockatrowsley.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 157

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East Anglia With big skies redolent of Africa and pretty pink villages, plus windswept beaches that go on for miles and cultural hotspots like Cambridge and Aldeburgh, this area has eastern appeal

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Gary Horner, ‘Winter Sunrise’, Herringfleet Smock Mill, Suffolk, England (Landscape Photographer of the Year – Classic View 2016). eastcoastimages.co.uk

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS Crabbing season starts in late April. While Cromer is the obvious choice, gillying in Blakeney Quayside and Wells Harbour is also popular. Wait for high tide and use bacon as bait if you’re using a line.

Don’t let appearances be deceiving, while the quaint village of Snape might be small, it packs a mighty cultural punch.

Thanks mostly to Snape Maltings, the creative arts campus that is home to the internationally renowned Aldeburgh Music programme and one of the most unique concert halls in the country. It’s at its best in June, during Aldeburgh Festival. snapemaltings.co.uk

SPRING

SUMMER

Hop in a boat to Havergate Island in the middle of the River Ore to spot wading birds. It’s best-known for breeding avocets and terns at this time of year. The boat goes at 10am on the first Saturday of every month, taking just 12 people, so plan ahead for a birdwatching experience that’s far away from the crowds.

Four Seasons

From fresh crab baguettes and winding waterways to spring days spent gillying and chasing birds

AUTUMN 2017 marks the 50th anniversary since the author of Swallows and Amazons died, so this is the year to take the Arthur Ransome walking trail along the Shotley Peninsula. He moved here from the Lake District so that he could sail here, immortalising life on the river in We Didn’t Mean to Go to Sea.

The Norfolk Broads are busy throughout the summer but the world and his wife are missing a trick, this spot is undoubtedly at its most dramatic in winter, when only a handful of brave souls wind between the frost-covered banks. Keep your eyes peeled for the otters.

WINTER

Pick up your Christmas turkey from Peele’s. The farm has reared the prized Norfolk Black breed since 1880, at about the time that turkey was overtaking goose as the yuletide dish of choice. Despite its name, the bird was introduced to the UK from South America by a Spanish explorer. peeles-blackturkeys.co.uk

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK; STORYTRAVELERS; VISITBRITAIN

Join Suffolk’s best producers for the annual Aldeburgh Food and Drink Festival at the end of September, you’ll find everything from raw milk to cider, street food to award-winning spirits, plus live demonstrations. aldeburghfoodanddrink.co.uk

You can’t beat a soft baguette crammed with crab caught fresh that morning off the very same shore you are eating it from. The Crab Hut at Brancaster Staithe Harbour will certainly satisfy on that front. Open April to October. It’s brought to you by the same people behind Letzers Smokehouse, which supplies most of the local restaurants. letzersseafood.co.uk

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EAST ANGLIA

Baron Bigod is similar to a Brie de Meaux

LIVE LIKE A LOCAL THE CRÈME DE LA CRÈME OF EAST ANGLIA, ACCORDING TO JONNY AND DULCIE

FESTIVAL The Aldeburgh Food and Drink Festival takes place every year towards the end of September at Snape Maltings and only local producers are able to take stalls. aldeburghfoodanddrink.co.uk

Big Cheese

Jonny and Dulcie Crickmore are copying the French to create great British culinary traditions at Fen Farm Dairy

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK

Jonny and Dulcie Crickmore with their children

How long have you been a dairy farmer? I’m a third generation farmer but was fast becoming disillusioned with the industry. Like most dairy farmers in Britain, it was a tremendous struggle. It was tough and soul destroying. Each day you’d send off the milk – there was no price control, no sense of quality, so I was looking around for a new project, something to excite me, that I could be proud of.

I had an idea of getting the public on board, and slowly but surely we turned the business around.

What did you do? First off, we started selling raw milk from the farm, direct to the public. Not easy as there are all sorts of tests, rules and regulations but it went well. From there we thought we would make cheese but we needed different, protein-rich milk. On the advice of a French cheese consultant, who’d only work with us if we got the right cows, we decided to go for the Montbéliarde, an ancient breed native to the Jura region. Their milk is used

to make Comté, Vacherin Mont d’or and Reblochon. They produce great milk and are happy to feed on grass. Our first cows arrived in 2013. I went over with a lorry to collect them and settle them into our fields.

What do you produce? We sell our own raw milk, raw cream and, occasionally, buttermilk. On the farm we make Baron Bigod, an unpasteurised brie similar to Brie de Meaux. Baron Bigod (pronounced by-God) was the Earl of Norfolk in the 12th century and he owned the land on which Fen Farm stands. As he originally came from Normandy, it’s a good connection.

We also make butter in the French style using full fat milk that has been cultured and left for two days to ripen before it’s churned. It’s very expensive, a great luxury, but everyone loves it! And as the culture is what the French use for crème fraîche, we plan to start making that too very soon.

What’s your biggest triumph? There’s no denying it has been tough but well worth it. The cheese was voted best British soft cheese at the Melton Mowbray Cheese Festival, and we won Business Action Entrepreneur of the Year. But the feedback we get from our customers and the sense of community I feel we’re building around good practices and great food is incredibly rewarding. fenfarmdairy.co.uk

PRODUCE Truly Traceable Pies not only make great venison and game pies and sausage rolls but also deerstalk, shoot and butcher themselves. trulytraceable.com

VINEYARD New kid on the block, Flint Vineyard has released its Bacchus and Pinot Blanc.

They also run an interesting wine club for their more unusual wines. flintvineyard.com

RESTAURANT Recently opened, The Boarding House Dining Rooms in Halesworth offers local food, wonderful wines, great beer and friendly service. boarding househalesworth.com

GARDEN CENTRE Darsham Nurseries describes itself as a ‘work in progress’.

As well as selling interesting plants, it runs a café, cooking own-grown vegetables and herbs and local produce. darsham nurseries.co.uk

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EAST ANGLIA

METHOD

INGREDIENTS SERVES FOUR » 4 heads red chicory » 3 heads white chicory » 2 tbsp pomegranate molasses » Olive oil, for cooking » Sea salt and black pepper

Light the barbecue and set for direct cooking. Cut each head of chicory into quarters lengthwise. The yellow chicory will likely be bigger with a thicker stalk, so trim any excess stalk before cooking.

Rub the chicory with olive oil, season well and then place on the grill in the direct heat zone and cook for three minutes on each side to soften and char. Don’t be afraid to blacken the leaves here – chicory really benefits from this depth of flavour.

When the chicory has softened, you should be able to splay out the leaves like a fan. Cook like this for a further two minutes on each side. Drizzle with the pomegranate molasses before serving.

Extracted from Grill Smoke BBQ by Ben Tish (Quadrille, £25)

Salad Days Chicory is grown in the sandy soils of East Anglia. Ben Tish’s recipe for both red and white chicory is oh-so simple

I find chicory to be much underrated. It is generally used raw in salads – which is no bad thing – but cooked over charcoal, it is a revelation. I think it’s something to do with the layers of leaves being exposed to charring and the natural bitterness being tempered. Sweet, sticky pomegranate molasses is the perfect accompaniment.

Ben Tish

PHOTOS: KRIS KIRKHAM

CHARCOAL-GRILLED CHICORY WITH POMEGRANATE MOLASSES

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

BANK HOUSE KING’S LYNN, NORFOLK

Overlooking King’s Staithe Square and the Great Ouse River in the fascinating, historic centre of King’s Lynn, Bank House is a glorious Georgian merchant’s townhouse. It was here in the 1780s that Joseph Gurney, later a founder of Barclays, set up his first bank, and in 2008 owners Anthony and Jeannette Goodrich opened their stylish, relaxed and exceptionally good value hotel. Upstairs, 12 chic, individually decorated bedrooms comfortably blend old and new with antique furniture and modern art. Downstairs, the brasserie restaurant occupies Gurney’s purpose-built Counting House, now a buzzing local favourite serving highly recommended food. The adjacent bar, once the Bank Manager’s office, is open all day for tea, coffee and cakes, as well as drinks and cocktails. There’s also a large sunny room with sofas and comfy seating, as well as the Billiards Room and the Boardroom, ideal for private parties. If it’s warm, the riverside terrace offers the chance for al fresco drinks.

NAME TO KNOW... Deputy manager Paula Jackman, who knows all about King’s Lynn.

Ask her about True’s Yard Museum, which tells the history of the town’s fisherfolk.

Doubles from £115 +44 (0)1553 660492; thebankhouse.co.uk

BLAKENEY HOTEL BLAKENEY, NORFOLK

Loved by generations of the same families, the Blakeney stands in a prime position on the charming quayside in one of the North Norfolk coast’s prettiest villages, with wonderful views across the estuary and salt marshes to Blakeney Point. The family-owned hotel has recently undergone an extensive refurbishment and is now full of pretty fabrics in rooms that are white, light, stylish and very comfortable. There are panoramic views from the bar, terrace and restaurant, where hearty English or Continental breakfasts, light lunches and locally sourced, seasonal à la carte and table d’hôte dinner menus are offered, enhanced by prompt, polite, traditional service. Many of the 60 rooms (including singles) also have wonderful views.

Some have balconies or south-facing garden views, others patios leading onto the hotel’s gardens. They are charming: unfussy and seaside fresh, with crisp white linens on excellent beds. There is also an elegant indoor pool, steam room, sauna, spa bath and mini gym.

NAME TO KNOW... Managers Kay Scanlon and James Spalding, who can answer any questions you may have.

Doubles from £208 +44 (0)1263 740797; blakeneyhotel.co.uk 164 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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EAST ANGLIA

CLEY WINDMILL CLEY-NEXT-THE-SEA, NORFOLK

Cley Windmill is one of the most memorable and enchanting places to stay in Britain. In the late afternoon, when the wind whips across from the sea, there are few greater pleasures than stowing away hats, coats and binoculars (this is bird-watching country) and coming home to this beautifully restored old windmill, complete with sails. Echoes of children’s adventure stories crowd in as you climb higher and higher in the mill, finally mounting the ladder to the lookout room. Downstairs, there’s a beamed, lived-in circular sitting room with blazing fire, antiques and comfortable sofas; and a cosy dining room, part of the original 1713 warehouse. Candlelit dinners are just right: convivial affairs with proper country cooking. There are three circular bedrooms in the tower itself, their bathrooms ingeniously fitted into challenging nooks and crannies, and six rooms in other parts of the building. All are charming and full of character with views over the waving reed beds to the sea.

NAME TO KNOW... Manager Simon, who is loved by everyone, staff, guests and suppliers alike. There isn’t much he doesn’t know about local life and what to do in the area.

Doubles from £159 +44 (0)1263 740209; cleywindmill.co.uk

CONGHAM HALL KING’S LYNN, NORFOLK

Set in 30 acres of gardens and woodland, this calm, handsome Georgian house has a special feature: its acclaimed herb gardens, containing almost 400 varieties, plus orchards and a kitchen garden. Owner Nicholas Dickinson has swept away the previously dated furnishings and a lovely stone floor now graces the elegant hall with grey-green walls, antique furniture, sofas in front of the fire and vases of flowers from the garden. To either side is a drawing room and library, and there’s also a slick bar. The airy dining room works both for smart gatherings and relaxed, informal meals. The bedrooms are all impeccable and comfortable, divided between those in the house (the smallest top floor rooms are charming) and those in the garden wing, next to the pampering Secret Garden Spa. The house rooms are cool and classical in style and make lovely havens in which to relax.

What else? Why not treat yourself to a private falconry experience, including afternoon tea.

NAME TO KNOW... General manager Julie Woodhouse, who celebrated 20 years at Congham in 2016. Julie has lived in Norfolk all her life and knows it inside out.

Doubles from £135 +44 (0)1485 600250; conghamhallhotel.co.uk 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 165

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE GREAT HOUSE LAVENHAM, SUFFOLK

In the market place of one of England’s finest medieval villages, with a striking perpendicular ‘Wool Church’ and a high street of irresistible antique shops, the 14th- and 15th-century Great House was modernised in the 18th century and, today, the exterior appears more Georgian than Tudor. In the 1930s the poet Stephen Spender lived here and, in 1985, Régis and Martine Crépy turned it into a boutique restaurant with rooms. The predominantly French food draws diners from far and wide and won the 2017 AA Inspectors’ Choice Gold Award among other accolades. The restaurant is only one of two in Suffolk to boast three AA Rosettes. In the five stylish, light bedrooms you’ll find large beds – including one majestic Jacobean four-poster – and plenty of spoiling extras and period charm. There’s even part of a 14th-century chimney in one room. Back downstairs, French windows open on to a delightful, stone-paved courtyard for summer dining.

NAME TO KNOW... General manager Thierry, who has been with the property for 15 years.

He will give you a warm welcome and answer any questions you may have.

Doubles from £160 +44 (0)1787 247431; greathouse.co.uk

THE GUNTON ARMS THORPE MARKET, NORFOLK

Art dealer Ivor Braka’s recreation of a particularly delightful 19th-century coaching inn, with the huge help of interior designer Robert Kime, has been wowing guests ever since it opened in 2011. ‘In the words of Dolly Parton,’ Ivor says ruefully, ‘it took a lot of money to look this cheap.’ The look is helped by the quirkiness of the gabled flint building itself, which sits inside vast, deerfilled Gunton Park. Chef Stuart Tattersall presides over delicious, imaginative dishes, including grills on an open fire, and guests tuck in at sharing tables. There’s a divine residents’ sitting room decorated with paintings by seriously famous artists, courtesy of Ivor. Indeed, the whole place is filled with edgy, sexy art: Tracey Emin, Damien Hirst, you name it. As for the bedrooms, they are enchanting. If you stay in Ellis, look twice at the old prints to the left of the dressing table, but not if you objected to Tracey Emin’s naughty plates above the bar.

NAME TO KNOW... General manager Tracey Manning. Ask her for tips on the best places to visit locally.

Doubles from £95 +44 (0)1263 832010; theguntonarms.co.uk 166 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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EAST ANGLIA

MAISON TALBOOTH DEDHAM, ESSEX

Overlooking Dedham Vale, in Constable country, this handsome Victorian house has a sophisticated interior. Its 12 luxurious bedrooms act as the accommodation arm of the nearby restaurant Le Talbooth. Both are owned by the Milsom family, who have run the restaurant since 1952 and whose portfolio also includes The Pier at Harwich (see page 169). There’s a lightly applied poetry theme to the smartly decorated bedrooms: each bearing a poet’s name and stocked with his works. There’s also a breakfast room, heated pool, in-house spa and a house-party atmosphere. Maison Talbooth, with its courteous, personal service, particularly suits groups of friends, perhaps gathered for a celebration. Breakfast, lunch and a spectacular afternoon tea are served in the Garden Room, while a courtesy car whisks guests to and from Le Talbooth, a half-timbered building with a film-set location on the River Stour. Hotel and restaurant make a winning combination.

NAME TO KNOW... Emily Crane, the spa manager, who gives the best massages and facials in Essex, and has been awarded the coveted prize of ‘Milsom Hotels Employee of the Year’.

Doubles from £260 +44 (0)1206 322367; milsomhotels.com/maisontalbooth

MILSOMS KESGRAVE HALL KESGRAVE, SUFFOLK

With its exclusive collection of East Anglian hotels, the Milsom Group demonstrates the knack of creating sophisticated yet easy-going and contemporary places to stay. They achieved it with Maison Talbooth (see above) and The Pier (see page 169), and have done it again with Kesgrave Hall, opened in 2008. An impressive country house built in 1812, it stands in 38 rambling acres of woods, fields and immaculate, sweeping lawns. Its 23 rooms, ranging from ‘Standard’ to ‘Top’, with ‘Superior’, ‘Deluxe’ and ‘Principal’ in between, are all supremely comfortable and well equipped. Dining is particularly relaxed. The family-friendly, all-day restaurant, with its rustic good looks, doesn’t take bookings or have a dress code. Turn up whenever you like: hotel guests are guaranteed a table. In summer, there’s dining on the glorious covered terrace with views over the lawns. A separate building, the Hangar, can accommodate up to 300 people for weddings and private parties.

NAME TO KNOW... Josh Vartan, the bar manager, who is both a barista and mixologist and really loves to share his knowledge of seasonal cocktails. Ask him about his ‘latte’ art.

Doubles from £130 +44 (0)1473 333741; milsomhotels.com/kesgrave-hall 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 167

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

MORSTON HALL MORSTON, NORFOLK

A long-established jewel of the North Norfolk coast, Morston Hall is the mellow, intimate, beautifully presented fiefdom of Tracy and Galton Blackiston. A five-minute walk from the quay at Morston, the starting point for seal trips, and two miles from Blakeney, the brick and flint 17th-century country house is embellished by airy conservatory extensions that overlook the pretty gardens. Inside, all is calm, the sofas are squashy and the welcome warm. The relaxing, stress-free bedrooms, in country-house style, are spacious and comfortable, with pampering extras, and include six stylish suites in a garden pavilion, a short walk from the main house. As for Galton’s much-loved food (he has held a Michelin star for the past 18 years), it remains the principal draw of Morston Hall, and dinner here is always a memorable event. His signature dishes include braised belly of pork with apple soup and garlic purée and fresh cherry clafoutis... you may have your own favourites.

NAME TO KNOW... Owner and chef Galton Blackiston. Ask him where his favourite place in Norfolk is or what is currently growing in the kitchen garden.

Doubles from £350 +44 (0)1263 741041; morstonhall.com

THE NORFOLK MEAD COLTISHALL, NORFOLK

Three cheers for this sophisticated yet gentle address, brilliantly placed for exploring both the Norfolk Broads and Norwich. With a lovely walled garden, perfect for summer dining, and a wildflower mead that borders a pretty tributary of the River Bure, this fine Georgian house is a real haven. And it comes with its own boat for exploring the Broads: book the launch, for up to six people, for a half or full day, with a picnic from the hotel; add a tailor-made massage or a facial in the hotel’s treatment rooms and you have the ingredients for a perfect yet affordable break. Husband and wife Anna Duttson and James Holliday are responsible for the new look Norfolk Mead, with 16 contemporary rooms and suites. And Anna’s background at the helm of a successful catering company, which numbers the McLaren racing team among its clients, means that the two AA rosette food is as refined as the rest.

NAME TO KNOW... Anna and James, the proud owners of The Norfolk Mead, who are on hand for anything you require during your stay.

Doubles from £135 +44 (0)1603 737531; norfolkmead.co.uk 168 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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EAST ANGLIA

THE NORTHGATE BURY ST EDMUNDS, SUFFOLK

It doesn’t take long to detect a palpable sense of energy at the recently opened Northgate, previously, and for many years, a genteel, family-run guesthouse called Ounce House.

It’s certainly not a guesthouse anymore. With its spacious, moody and amatory cocktail bar, arrestingly decorated dining room, elegant chef’s table in the kitchen and nine glamorous bedrooms, The Northgate is hard to categorise, which is exactly owner Philip Turner’s intention.

He wants to avoid the standard classifications of pub, hotel, restaurant, guesthouse for his properties but to be ‘simply synonymous with a great experience’. And since his young, sneaker-wearing staff are enthusiastic and professional; the food, from highly experienced chef Daniel Grigg, a couple of cuts above; and the rates for the individually designed, deeply comfortable bedrooms extremely fair, a great experience is just what you’ll get.

NAME TO KNOW... Reception manager Genevieve, who has lived at The Northgate for 35 years before its purchase by The Chestnut Group. She knows everything about its history and the surrounding area.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1284 339604; thenorthgate.com

THE PIER HARWICH, ESSEX

Designed to resemble a Venetian palazzo, the striking Pier Hotel was built in 1864 to accommodate passengers departing from Harwich for the continent. The diminutive Ha’penny Pier, so called for its admittance charge, is still intact opposite. The Pier Hotel sports a light and airy interior with a fabulous bar and terrace, and a relaxed first-floor restaurant, with five sought-after tables on the balcony. The views from here are mesmerising and the setting perfect for champagne, oysters, local lobster and the freshest Dover sole. Bedrooms are either upstairs or in a building next door. All are breezy, attractive and very good value, and from six of them you can soak up the view: the Stour and Orwell estuaries snaking into the distance, the pier at your feet and boats beetling about on the water. Owned for over 30 years by the Milsom family (see Maison Talbooth and Kesgrave Hall on page 167), The Pier makes an absorbing and delightfully different spot for a break.

NAME TO KNOW... Caroline, who has been working at The Pier for over 12 years. Originally from Scotland, she now lives next door and is adored by both guests and staff alike.

Doubles from £125 +44 (0)1255 241212; milsomhotels.com/thepier 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 169

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE ROSE & CROWN SNETTISHAM, NORFOLK

If you love to be cosy, to snuggle down in a bed dressed in white linen and listen to the wind as it whips along the coast, knowing that in the morning a famous Great British Breakfast awaits, then you will surely love The Rose & Crown.

Upstairs, the bedrooms are full of uncomplicated charm, yet lack for nothing. Downstairs, the quintessential English inn, drenched in character, is full of hidden corners, old beams, log fires and pamment floors, with two centuriesold bars, one with original penny seat and bread oven, the other home to the Snettisham Cricket Club, complete with honours board. The highly regarded food is served in three attractive dining rooms, where the regularly changing menu includes local seafood, samphire, asparagus, strawberries and game in season. Outside, discover magnificent Snettisham Beach, home to thousands of migrating birds, including huge ‘V’ formations of geese that fly overhead, morning and evening, throughout winter. Magical.

NAME TO KNOW... Manager Kim Tinkler, who has been the right-hand woman for the last 14 years. Ask her to find you a table when the restaurant is full, she always will.

Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1485 541382; roseandcrownsnettisham.co.uk

SALTHOUSE HARBOUR IPSWICH, SUFFOLK

When the Gough family opened Salthouse Harbour in 2003, they brought a slice of chic and sunny Mediterranean life to Ipswich and neither the hotel nor the city has looked back. In a prime spot on the resurgent waterfront, it mixes compelling and uplifting maritime views with contemporary yet characterful style and the two combined, plus high standards, lovely bedrooms and just-right food, make this the sort of hotel that induces a happy, sunny feeling just by stepping inside. The hands-on family ownership filters through to the confident, upbeat, friendly and relaxed service, especially in the easy-going, highly popular Eaterie restaurant, which focuses on modern dishes ‘with a twist’ and the freshest of locally sourced produce. Bedrooms are either in the former warehouse or the modern extension; all are individually designed, great fun and very comfortable. For a truly spectacular harbour view, opt for a Sail Loft Marina, perhaps one with a balcony and a copper bath.

NAME TO KNOW... General manager and keen wine connoisseur, Diogo Abreu, who can select the perfect wine for all occasions, many of which are served by the glass.

Doubles from £166 +44 (0)1473 226789; salthouseharbour.co.uk 170 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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EAST ANGLIA

TUDDENHAM MILL TUDDENHAM, SUFFOLK

A boutique hotel with a bucolic setting, this late 18th-century clapboard and brick watermill marries the historic and the state of the art in a new, exciting way. In a careful restoration, the original timbers, cast-iron water wheel and millstone have been sympathetically incorporated into its stylish decoration, in which pale painted or exposed rosy brick walls offset smart, mostly black and grey Italian furniture.

Atmospherically lit behind glass, the water wheel is the focal point of the captivating bar, while the millstone is on show in the beamed restaurant. Here, talented chef Lee Bye’s contemporary menus favour local seasonal produce, garnering many fans as well as three AA rosettes. The 20 bedrooms are split between the mill house and outbuildings, all with king-size beds, Bose sound systems, Missoni robes and Espa toiletries. The largest are the loft suites; the most romantic are the five rustic meadow nooks, one with its own hot tub.

NAME TO KNOW... Head chef Lee Bye. Ask him about the seasonal dishes on the menu.

Doubles from £145 +44 (0)1638 713552; tuddenhammill.co.uk

THE WHITE HORSE BRANCASTER STAITHE, NORFOLK

A mysterious grey-blue sea; a vast, flat sky; a jigsaw of muddy tidal creeks and saltmarsh dotted with little boats; Scolt Head Island in the middle distance. The view from The White Horse is elating, and the inn itself is the perfect match for its coastal setting, with an informal conservatory dining room and deck terrace beyond. Sit here and gaze at the view, eating buttery local samphire or asparagus in your fingers, alongside Cromer crab, lobster, oysters or whatever happens to be fresh that day.

Indeed, if the tide and season is right, you’ll be able to see the local fishermen bringing home their catch, or Cyril and Ben, the local ‘mussel men’, cleaning and netting their molluscs, grown and harvested at the bottom of the garden and delivered to the kitchen door. The 15 Nantucket-style bedrooms are divided between those in the main house and those in the flint-fronted annexe that snakes towards the water, with a ‘living’ roof, thick in summer with sedum, thrift and wild herbs.

NAME TO KNOW... Reception manager, Katie Harman, who is Norfolk born and bred and can direct you anywhere in north Norfolk.

Doubles from £110 +44 (0)1485 210262; whitehorsebrancaster.co.uk 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 171

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The North Come and see the powerhouse it’s becoming with Hull as 2017’s city of culture. Beyond there’s the bleakly beautiful Yorkshire Dales, the sublimely awe-inspiring Lake District and the rugged wilderness of Northumberland

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David Webb, ‘Enchanting Skies over Bamburgh Castle’, Northumberland, England (Landscape Photographer of the Year – Classic View 2011) davidwebbweddingphotographer.co.uk

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS Visit the stunning formal gardens of Alnwick Castle, redeveloped by the Duchess of Northumberland, which has its very own poison garden and a fantastic restaurant in a treehouse. alnwickcastle.com

Grab an ice cream and wander round the harbour and quaint coastal village of Staithes, North Yorkshire, which used to be one of the largest fishing ports in the North East of England.

SUMMER

SPRING

Manchester International Festival, a cultural event like no other that showcases artists from a spectrum of art forms and has previously exhibited the likes of The XX and Marina Abramović. mif.co.uk

Yorkshire Sculpture Park, set in the glorious parkland of Bretton Hall estate, displays works by leading sculptors of the 20th century and is an absolute must-see. ysp.co.uk

Go birdwatching at Bempton Cliffs while the seabird breeding season is under way.

Visit between April and July to spot the famous puffins.

Four Seasons

High Force Waterfall in County Durham is a sight to behold, follow a path through the woodland to the base of the falls where the River Tees drops 21 metres into a plunge pool below.

Walk through the Yorkshire Dales to the ruins of Fountains Abbey, the largest monastic ruins in the country.

Sculpture set in landscape, The Beatles’ birthplace and a slap up Yorkshire tea

AUTUMN

WINTER

Step inside the family homes of Beatles’ members John Lennon and Paul McCartney. See the places in Liverpool where they were born, grew up and practised their earliest music together.

The afternoon tea at Bettys in Harrogate is legendary. Go and see what all the fuss is about and you won’t be disappointed by their selection of sandwiches, scones and cakes. bettys.co.uk

The National Railway Museum in York is said to be one of Britain’s finest museums. View over a million objects spanning 300 years of railway history. nrm.org.uk

Castle Howard, recognisable from Brideshead Revisited, is spectacular both inside and out. At Christmas time the house is decorated with thousands of decorations and hosts a fantastic Christmas market. castlehoward.co.uk

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK; © HENRY MOORE, COURTESY YORKSHIRE SCULPTURE PARK; © ANDY BULMER; © RICHARD TYMON

Step back in time on the Holy Island of Lindisfarne, Northumberland, and marvel at all that has been preserved.

From ponies to seals, the wildlife on the island is also spectacular.

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THE NORTH

The botanicals used in Hepple Gin reflect Northumberland’s landscape

LIVE LIKE A LOCAL VALENTINE’S TOP PICKS

CHEESE Berwick Edge cheese from Doddington Dairy is strong and fruity and made in the Gouda-style with unpasteurised milk. doddington cheese.co.uk

Northern Spirit Valentine Warner’s Hepple Gin draws upon the landscape of the Northumberland National Park

Valentine Warner

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK; © FLYNN WARREN

How long have you been producing Hepple gin for?

There are four partners that developed Hepple Gin – Walter, who owns the estate on which it is distilled in the Simonside Hills in the Northumberland National Park, Nick Strangeway – one of the most celebrated bartenders in the world, Cairbry, a bio-chemist, and myself. We got together in 2013, had several, meetings and discussions and, of course, tastings but didn’t produce gin to sell until 2015 – it took a while until we felt we had got it right and we could launch it on the world.

What is the character of your gin? What we were looking for was a gin that reflected its landscape – a drink that was clear, clean bright and dancing. Up where it is made are four of the UK’s cleanest rivers, so we wanted to reflect its purity but also the endless wild plants and the scents and tastes they offer –

the ‘botanicals’ as they’re often described. You’ll find there’s juniper, bog myrtle, Douglas fir as well as lovage and blackcurrants from the garden so they are all included.

What was your biggest challenge? I thought when we launched that the clink of all those bottles of new gins was as noisy as the old-fashioned milk bottle – since then it has got even noisier as more gins have come to market. Since the relaxation of the distillery laws, there are so many artisanal producers who, like us, buy in neutral grain spirit and then set about transforming it – attempting to develop their own personality and flavour. So it was all about finding our niche and we knew we had to establish a real point of difference.

Luckily for us, it soon developed a following and you can drink it in the smartest bars in London – such as the Connaught, 45 Jermyn Street, The Wolseley, Hawksmoor, where it is part of their three-Martini lunch, and Boisdale. We’ve also just won the Double Gold award at the San Francisco Spirits Awards.

What’s next? We’re working on a vermouth – it may be a while yet but we hope to have it ready and on sale by the autumn. It has to be the next step as then we will produce all the ingredients for the perfect martini. hepple-gin.com

SMOKERY L. Robson & Sons is a unique family business producing some of the world’s finest smoked Craster kippers for almost 100 years. Stop by in Craster for a proper kipper tea. kipper.co.uk

BUTCHER Rothbury Family Butchers take huge pride in sourcing as locally as possible – their local hill lamb is much recommended. rothburyfamilybutchers.co.uk

RESTAURANT Chef/owner Kenny Atkinson cooks up an exquisite storm at The House of Tides in Newcastle – it’s worth the journey. houseoftides.co.uk

BOOKSHOP Barter Books in the station at Alnwick is one of the largest secondhand bookshops; be sure to stop by for a cup of tea in the former buffet. barterbooks.co.uk

2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 175

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THE NORTH

INGREDIENTS SERVES SIX

Preheat the oven to 200°C. Toast the bread on both sides and cut out two rounds from each slice to fit the bases of a six-hole muffin tin. Use the oil to brush around the tin, pop in the toast rounds and season with salt and a few pepper flakes or ground pepper. Grill the bacon for about a minute on each side so it’s not quite cooked but still pliable. Arrange two of the bacon rashers around the edges of each hole of the muffin tin to make cosy nests for the eggs.

Divide the cheese between them, press down and crack an egg into each. Add the chives and pepper flakes and bake in the oven for around ten minutes until the eggs are set to your liking.

Scatter with salt as you eat.

Breakfast Bites How do you like your eggs in the morning? Northumbrian-born Linda Tubby shares her favourite fuss-free recipe

TOAST, EGG AND BACON MUFFIN TIN BAKES

A mini breakfast in a muffin tin – what’s not to love? Especially as it can be prepared the night before. All you have to do come morning is to add the eggs, scatter over the chives and bake. Easy peasy. If you’re feeling extra posh, use pancetta instead of bacon.

METHOD

Linda Tubby

Recipe taken from Cracked by Linda Tubby. Published by Kyle books, £16.99

PHOTOS: ALI ALLEN

» 3 large slices of good bread » 1/2 teaspoon olive oil » 12 thin smoked streaky bacon rashers or pancetta » 45g vintage Cheddar cheese, finely grated, or a hard goat’s cheese » 6 medium eggs » 8 chives, finely snipped » pul biber red pepper flakes or freshly ground black pepper » Sea salt crystals

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File Notes:

Photo taken by co-founder Tim. View from the quinine plantations in the Democratic Republic of the Congo.

WE GO TO THE ENDS OF THE EARTH FOR THE PERFECT G&T Gin is only as good as the tonic it’s paired with.

While most tonics mask the delicate flavours of gin with ar tificial sweeteners like sickly saccharin, at Fever-Tree it’s all about taste. In fact, one might say our founders Charles and Tim are a little obsessed.

In their quest for the perfect tonic, Charles and Tim spent days in the British Librar y researching quinine sources before travelling to some of the most remote par ts of the world in search of the finest natural ingredients, venturing as far as the Democratic Republic of the Congo to find the world’s purest quinine. It’s this unique ingredient that gives our tonic its essential bitter flavour, and when balanced with botanicals like natural orange oils, makes for a gin & tonic that’s crisp, clean and like no other.

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

ASKHAM HALL ASKHAM, CUMBRIA

If you lean toward staying in homes rather than hotels, and warm to ‘boho chic but professional’, then head for Askham Hall. It stands in a magnificent corner of the Lake District, between Ullswater and the Eden Valley. The mighty yet approachable manor house, Grade I listed, was the family home of Charlie Lowther and his parents, the Earl and Countess of Lonsdale. Having made a success of the George and Dragon at nearby Clifton (see page 182), Charlie has now given Askham Hall a new lease of life. Its wonderful romantic and edible gardens are open to the public, plus an atmospheric Kitchen Garden Café and a barn and medieval hall for private parties. Its 15 individual bedrooms are best described as country-house style, without rules, and there’s a pool and small spa. And, in the rustic yet lavishly comfortable Garden Room, chef Richard Swale’s fromthe-land cooking is little short of marvellous, matched by sommelier Nico Chieze’s wines.

NAME TO KNOW... French-born Nico Chieze, the maître de maison (or ‘house manager’), is a classically trained sommelier. Ask him which paired wines he recommends with your meal.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1931 712350; askhamhall.co.uk

AUGILL CASTLE KIRKBY STEPHEN, CUMBRIA

Quirky and delightful, Augill Castle is a Victorian gentleman’s folly in the magnificent Eden Valley. It has the trappings of a neoGothic castle – tower, turrets, castellations and mullions – but in miniature. Its wonderfully warm owners, Simon and Wendy Bennett, rescued it from dereliction and have lovingly created an award-winning and very special place to stay. It retains the relaxed atmosphere of a family home amid its vast rooms, with large fireplaces and antique furniture. There are 15 charmingly eclectic bedrooms, with four-poster baths as well as beds, turrets for wardrobes and splendid views. You’d be hard pushed to find a family-friendlier castle, with treehouse, playground, 12-seat cinema and children’s cookery school. It’s also a splendid place for a wedding. You can have the castle to yourself and there’s no formula: every guest is as unique as the place itself. Simon gives an honest glimpse of life at Augill in his books, Undressed for Dinner and Stop for Breakfast.

NAME TO KNOW... Head housekeeper Faye, who knows everything about local life, where to shop and especially what to do on a rainy day.

Doubles from £200 +44 (0)1768 341937; stayinacastle.com 178 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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THE NORTH

THE BAR CONVENT YORK

Hotel locations are wonderfully varied; you can find them in stately homes, prisons, windmills and castles. And, in York, you can find a hotel in England’s oldest living convent. Dating from 1686, it is still home to its apostolic members of the Congregation of Jesus, an Ignatian order founded in 1609 by an extraordinary woman called Mary Ward at the height of Catholic suppression postgunpowder plot. As you might expect, it makes a tranquil and affordable place to stay, and you can even sleep in one of two attractive rooms designed by Olga Polizzi (see Hotel Endsleigh, page 46, and Hotel Tresanton, page 47), who is a supporter of the sisters and their work.

Recent refurbishment has ensured simple but spotless and well-equipped bedrooms.

There’s an all-day café, an oasis of a garden, the Baroque chapel to visit and a superb exhibition on the history of the convent and the story of its remarkable founder. Uplifting.

NAME TO KNOW... Colin, whose free guided tour on Tuesday mornings will tell you more about the 18th-century chapel and the history of this impressive Grade I listed house.

Doubles from £90 +44 (0)1904 464902; bar-convent.org.uk

BROCCO ON THE PARK SHEFFIELD

Appearances can be deceiving, but once you get inside this restaurant with eight rooms beside leafy Endcliffe Park and close to Sheffield’s upmarket Nether Edge district, Brocco on the Park is a shining example of how imaginative yet practical design can lift a place far above the rut. Its owner and creator, Tiina Carr, is half Finnish and the hotel – once the Peace Guest House where Picasso is believed to have stayed on his trip to the Peace Congress in 1950 – is now a perfect marriage of pared-down Scandi chic and British comfort. Tiina’s theme, executed with the lightest of touches, is birds (think Picasso and his dove); her mantra is ‘sleep well, eat well, live well’ and in her pretty, carefully-crafted interiors that is just what you do. The ground floor, with honesty bar for hotel guests, is given over to a stylish indoor/outdoor ‘neighbourhood kitchen’ for relaxed all-day dining (‘seasonal, a little bit Scandinavian and unmistakably Sheffield’) with plenty of choice.

NAME TO KNOW... Tiina, Brocco’s owner and manager, who you should ask for the lowdown on what to do in the local area, from independent boutique shops to hip galleries.

Doubles from £100 +44 (0)1142 661233; brocco.co.uk 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 179

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE CHESTER GROSVENOR CHESTER, CHESHIRE

It could be the setting for a film, an upstairsdownstairs saga about a glossy, old-school hotel that’s set in a provincial city but aims ‘to match anything you might find on the ChampsElysées’. And it certainly does. The pleasant sense of fantasy begins, for many, in the taxi; only accredited hotel guests can be driven to its door in Chester’s pedestrian quarter. Then there’s the larger-than-life doorman, swathed in liveried coat, to greet and usher you into a lobby worthy of Claridge’s, with its vast staircase and glittering chandelier that once hung in London’s Junior Carlton. You’ll find a perfect example of a grande dame European hotel, glossy and plump. The bedrooms live up; the food in Simon Radley at The Chester Grosvenor is Michelin starred, and the shopping outside is to die for. There’s even a Parisian bistro, La Brasserie, in the hotel. Paris? You can keep it.

NAME TO KNOW... Resident sommelier Derek Scaife, who tends to over 750 bins within The Cellar, a private dining space serviced by the team behind Simon Radley. He is on hand to provide wine tasting sessions and advice.

Doubles from £170 +44 (0)1244 324024; chestergrosvenor.com

THE COACH HOUSE AT MIDDLETON LODGE RICHMOND, NORTH YORKSHIRE

This perfectly proportioned Georgian country retreat (on the estate of Middleton Lodge, a superb private hire house and wedding venue) is just about the coolest hotel in Yorkshire. Restored and launched by its owner, James Allison, with relaxed yet stylish interiors by his architect partner Rebecca, The Coach House is now a characterful, buzzy boutique hotel with nine sexy, sophisticated bedrooms, a curated shop, laid back lounge, cocktail bar – complete with a top flight team of mixologists and a brick-walled, unfussy yet comfortable restaurant. Plus soothing Ren and Voya facials and massages in The Treatment Rooms. And now an 18th-century Farmhouse, a wild meadow away from the Coach House, set in its own garden, is yours too: with open plan, eat-in, kitchen, dining area and lounge, masses of natural light and five bedrooms, available for private parties or individually. Think of Middleton Lodge as a sleeping beauty, which James and Rebecca have conjured back to life.

NAME TO KNOW... Head chef Gareth Rayner.

Ask him to create a dish using ingredients he has foraged from the garden.

Doubles from £170 +44 (0)1325 377977; middletonlodge.co.uk 180 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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THE NORTH

EASBY HALL RICHMOND, NORTH YORKSHIRE

A one-mile walk along the River Swale from Richmond, John and Karen Clarke have turned their classic Georgian country house into a charming, friendly B&B. Although the architecture is grand, the flower-filled interior is homely, and the welcome warm.

The magnificent drawing room seems to cry out for a party: it has an open fire, grand piano, good antiques and paintings, roomy sofas and large windows to take advantage of the sensational view of the romantic ruins of Easby Abbey. The snuggest place to sit is beside the fire in the stone-walled garden hut and, in summer, the glorious and profuse walled garden is perfect for afternoon tea. For extra pampering, in-house treatments are on offer and as for the three bedrooms, they are luxurious and madly romantic, each with stunning fabrics, open fire or log burner and champagne fridge.

There’s also a two-bedroom, self-contained cottage. At breakfast, soft fruit, compotes and jams all come from Easby’s organic garden.

NAME TO KNOW... John, who will lend you his maps and guide books and help you plan a stunning drive or walk in the Yorkshire Dales.

Doubles from £180 +44 (0)1748 826066; easbyhall.com

FOREST SIDE GRASMERE, CUMBRIA

A gem. As with its sibling, Hipping Hall (see page 183), its owner, Andrew Wildsmith, and experienced operations director, Tom Lewis, have ensured not just a haven of luxury but a memorable gastronomic experience in this handsome Victorian mansion that surveys the landmark rock formation, the Lion and the Lamb. Opened in 2016, it had a great deal of both money and, crucially, attention to detail lavished on it, from herbal infusions for your bath to the amazing new gardens – perfumed, ornamental and edible. These have been created with the talented chef, Kevin Tickle, with his passion for foraging in mind. He has rewarded them with an immediate Michelin star, hugely deserved. His dishes, brimming with ingredients such as scurvy grass, curds and whey are clean, modern and precise. They taste earthy, yet are wonderfully light, perfectly accompanied by the cellar of organic and biodynamic wines.

NAME TO KNOW... Forest Side’s head sommelier Charles Brown, who has assembled an enviable wine list with gems from around the world and closer to home, such as Silent Pool rosé from Albury organic vineyard.

Doubles from £189 +44 (0)15394 35250; theforestside.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 181

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

GEORGE AND DRAGON CLIFTON, CUMBRIA

Close to the Eden Valley and part of the huge Lowther Estate, the George and Dragon has been imaginatively revamped by Charlie Lowther, who also owns Askham Hall (see page 178). The ground floor is a triumph of conviviality and authenticity. The wood-topped bar, wood-burning stoves, banquette seats strewn with kilim-covered cushions and the sightline that allows you to see all the way through to the slate-floored, duck egg blue panelled restaurant, create a delightful place in which to while away time. As for the food, almost all the produce comes from Askham Hall’s gardens and the Lowther Estate, and it’s just the sort of tasty, unfussy, locally sourced cooking one craves in the countryside. Talking of which, anyone staying in one of the inn’s 11 comfortable bedrooms should take advantage of its impressive sporting ties. As well as fishing on the idyllic River Eden or the Lowther, there’s stalking, led by the family’s splendid, kilted head keeper, Gregor Cattanach.

NAME TO KNOW... Head chef Ian Jackson, who uses produce from the Lowther Estate, creating modern British dishes with a classical influence. Ask him which dish is most seasonal.

Doubles from £100 +44 (0)1768 865381; georgeanddragonclifton.co.uk

GILPIN HOTEL & LAKE HOUSE WINDERMERE, CUMBRIA

Family-run and fabulous. In 1987, John and Christine Cunliffe bought John’s grandmother’s former home and created a five-bedroom hotel. In 2001, their son Barney and his wife Zoe joined them. Nowadays, the 1901 house, seamlessly expanded by their other architect son, Ben, has 14 bedrooms, six wildly popular hot tub Garden Suites, and five luxurious Spa Lodges with private en suite spas. A mile away at Gilpin Lake House, six rooms enjoy a private lake, boat house, pool, hot tubs, saunas and spa. As for the food, you’ll be bowled over by the Michelinstarred, locally sourced creations – modern British with a twist of Asia – of Hrishikesh Desai in his restaurant Hrishi and the tapas-style panAsian fusion dishes in laid back Gilpin Spice.

Gilpin is warm and welcoming, but also very glamorous – a mix of Arts and Crafts charm and glossy, contemporary design – with the sense of a journey as guests wander through.

NAME TO KNOW... Sarah Redmayne and Richard Marriott, who have both been at the Gilpin for over 27 years.

Ask them anything about the hotel.

Doubles from £225 +44 (0)1539 488818; thegilpin.co.uk 182 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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HIPPING HALL KIRKBY LONSDALE, CUMBRIA

At Hipping, even the simple things are done well: the welcome is warm, the rooms comfortable and the food is outstanding.

The restaurant occupies a 15th-century Great Hall with a congenial atmosphere, where the staff wear contemporary yet utilitarian aprons marking the building’s past as a smithy.

Head chef is prodigiously talented 29-year-old Lancastrian, Oli Martin, whose passion is to produce dishes with strong rustic flavours and finesse; wine is taken equally seriously. As for the gorgeous bedrooms, local interior designer James Mackie has worked his magic and kept things local, again reflecting the smithy of old. Walls are painted with pigments exclusively created by local artists Pip Seymour and Rebecca Wallace who have made use of minerals from within 15 miles of Hipping.

Owner Andrew Wildsmith and his dedicated team are bursting with creativity and enthusiasm and it shows.

NAME TO KNOW... Head chef Oli Martin, who will be able to suggest one of the local gins, with choices from Lancashire, Yorkshire and Cumbria, before enjoying his tasting menu.

Doubles from £169 +44 (0)1524 271187; hippinghall.com

HOWTOWN HOTEL ULLSWATER, CUMBRIA

Howtown is set back from the shores of Ullswater and set back in time. Jacqui Baldry has run it, latterly with her son, David, for nearly 60 years. Jacqui has never had a computer; when you phone for a room, you are asked to confirm in writing; she then acknowledges by hand. It may be old-fashioned, but there’s nothing hair shirt about this truly special hotel (open March to November). Warmly lit, red-carpeted corridors, lined by watercolours and prints, lead to the 12 bedrooms, spacious and neat as a pin, with wonderful views. No newfangled toiletries (bring your own shampoo) but a bar of Imperial Leather soap, plentiful hot bath water and large towels. At 7pm, a gong sounds for dinner from well-known chef Colin Akrigg in the duck egg blue dining room, gleaming with silver cutlery.

At 8am: tea and biscuits brought to your room. Sounds regimented? This is the warmest, kindest hotel in the world.

NAME TO KNOW... One of the owners, David Baldry. Ask him to take you for a spin (or swim) in his amphibious car.

Doubles from £208 +44 (0)1768 486514; howtown-hotel.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 183

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THE INN AT WHITEWELL FOREST OF BOWLAND, LANCASHIRE

Charlie Bowman is the third generation of his family to run this charming 23-bedroom inn. Their taste for antiques is evident, with an eclectic mix, from Victorian bathing machines in some bathrooms to the pictures and prints that line the bedroom walls. With roots in the 14th century, the inn is full of character; bookcases groan with travel and cookery books for sale, while the reception doubles as a well-stocked wine shop. Modern day pampering has not been forgotten, with a new SkinSense treatment room. The unfussy food, from head chef Jamie Cadman, now in his 19th year there, is locally sourced. Bar meals are served in the spacious sitting room, while, in the elevated restaurant, the window-seat views are so compelling that it’s almost impossible to maintain a conversation.

The road leading to tiny Whitewell descends through the wild, steep-sided Trough of Bowland, and into a natural amphitheatre of meadows and hills, with the River Hodder, where fishing is available, running by.

NAME TO KNOW... Jonty Haighton, who runs Vintners Wines from the inn and can organise tastings and recommend wines to take home.

Doubles from £134 +44 (0)1200 448222; innatwhitewell.com

LORD CREWE ARMS BLANCHLAND, NORTHUMBERLAND

In 2014 this wonderfully characterful and historic inn was bought and superbly revamped by one of the best small hotel groups in the country.

In the medieval village of Blanchland, amid gorgeous countryside, the Lord Crewe Arms reopened following a £1.5m renovation by The Calcot Collection, owners of Calcot, Barnsley House (see page 140) and The Painswick (see page 144). Dating back to the 12th century, the posh pub-cum-hotel now comprises 21 bedrooms with relaxed eating areas displaying baronial and monastic touches as befit the building, originally part of Blanchland Abbey. The look throughout is spot on: English country calm mixed with cosmopolitan beat and pace. As for the honest, robust food, it’s in the excellent hands of Simon Hicks, formerly head chef at Hix Soho. The restored 15th-century Gatehouse is now a slick spot for special events and private gatherings of up to 30. Readers: this haven, in one of the loveliest spots in the country, is a true delight.

NAME TO KNOW... Reservations manager Linda Geddes. Pick her brains about the more recent history of the village and its surroundings.

Doubles from £119 +44 (0)1434 677100; lordcrewearmsblanchland.co.uk 184 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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THE NORTH

MIDDLETHORPE HALL YORK

If the exterior of this gorgeous, mellow red brick 1699 house looks straight from a Jane Austen novel, the interior is no disappointment.

You’ll find a magnificent oak staircase, quaint sitting rooms, each with a roaring fire, and even a ballroom, should you fancy a waltz.

The atmosphere is serene and there’s a tranquil spa across the road. Expect four-poster beds, floral bedspreads, homemade shortbread and kind attention from the staff. For dinner, try the catch of the day: perhaps plaice or halibut landed at Whitby, followed by poached Yorkshire rhubarb with white chocolate and pistachio.

A hotel that’s as alluring in winter – all cosy and snug – as it is in summer, when you can stroll through the grounds and make friends with the resident deer. It also makes the perfect base for visiting York. Rescued from decay in the 1980s, Middlethorpe Hall is a National Trustowned Historic House Hotel (see Bodysgallen Hall, page 197 and Hartwell House, page 103).

NAME TO KNOW... Michael Fawcett, the longstanding head concierge, who is known for his warm Yorkshire welcome, wealth of knowledge about the region, enthusiasm and positivity.

Doubles from £205 +44 (0)1904 641241; middlethorpe.com

MOOR HALL AUGHTON, LANCASHIRE

A new gastronomic hotspot – with fabulous bedrooms – destined to reach the stars. It’s the joint venture of Andy and Tracey Bell and Mark Birchall. The former are responsible for the transformation of the 16th century Moor Hall into an opulent restaurant with rooms; the latter, for nine years executive chef at L’Enclume, is the self-effacing culinary genius responsible for creating a temple of gastronomy à la mode. And what a temple. And how mode.

You could put a baby to bed on the cushioned carpets in the huge, gorgeous bedrooms (think silver, glass, purple, white leather, satin), while the new wood and glass dining room might easily transport you to Cape Town, Sydney or California. Mark’s food, served on local, specially designed pottery, is nothing short of sensational, with wines to match. But that’s not all: the converted medieval barn is a showcase for local produce, with a brasseriestyle restaurant above, and the fulsome walled kitchen garden a wonder to behold.

NAME TO KNOW... Chef patron Mark Birchall.

Ask him about the Moor Hall restoration project and his delicate produce driven menus.

Doubles from £195 +44 (0)1695 572511; moorhall.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 185

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NORTHCOTE BLACKBURN, LANCASHIRE

Northcote’s notable success is thanks to a formidable double act: general manager Craig Bancroft and chef Nigel Haworth. When they met in 1983, Craig didn’t know that Nigel would become one of the most highly regarded Michelin-starred chefs in the north; Nigel didn’t know that Craig had a gift for wine, as well as being a consummate hotelier and host. ‘We weren’t friends when we started. But we became friends.’ The brilliant food, rooted in the north, is produced with panache by the dream team of Nigel, his Executive Head Chef Lisa GoodwinAllen and Head Chef Nick Evans. And it is richly complemented by the ambience. It feels like a treat to stay here, and it is a beacon of excellence among the stunning hills and valleys of rural Lancashire. The solid Victorian house, built for a wealthy spinster, now glows with good living, with supremely comfortable bedrooms. And then there’s the Cookery School: unsurprisingly, one of the finest in the country.

NAME TO KNOW... Gardener Phil, ask him about the biodynamic kitchen garden. His wealth of fascinating agricultural knowledge includes how the moon can affect produce cultivation.

Doubles from £280 +44 (0)1254 240555; northcote.com

ODDFELLOWS CHESTER, CHESHIRE

Fancy a spot of retail therapy? A day at the races? Then hop on a train and head for Chester, whose compact medieval city centre, with its roots in Roman times, is graced by its cathedral and encircled by its city walls, which you can walk right round. If you feel like some fun, head for Oddfellows, which makes a perfect base for any age, but especially the young at heart. Set in a beautiful neo-classical mansion house, the decoration is nicely zany, with old typewriters crawling up the wall, huge appliqué birds and foxes on panelled walls in the bar and an indoor/outdoor courtyard, with water feature, artificial turf, booths, firepits and oversized lamps. The comfortable, wellequipped bedrooms are stylish, full of curios and fun accessories, and good value (great housekeeping here). There are also cool, spacious self-catering apartments. Downstairs, you’ll find great cocktails in the glamorous bar, and the food in the pretty, countrified restaurant is very good indeed.

NAME TO KNOW... Mixologist Sean, ask him to prepare you a bespoke cocktail using your favourite ingredients and flavours.

Doubles from £162 +44 (0)1244 895700; oddfellowschester.com 186 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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ODDFELLOWS ON THE PARK CHEADLE, GREATER MANCHESTER

Just opened, this handsome Oddfellow is the sister (or should that be brother?) of Oddfellows in Chester (see page opposite), and the second in a burgeoning new hotel collection headed

by Jonathan Slater, who for 30 years ran The Chester Grosvenor Hotel. Once again, a distinctive building has been reimagined as a chic and happening hotel, this time within the glorious Gothic mansion, Bruntwood Hall, surrounded by 120 acres of mature woodland of Bruntwood Park. Inside, the Hall’s Victorian Gothic roots and history have been allowed to shine, employing a rich palette of petrol greens, brass and gold, but as at Oddfellows in Chester, a light-hearted twist is also in evidence and names such as The Galloping Major (the restaurant, remembering a famous former owner) and The Pigsty (a salon de beauté complete with mud room where guests can slap the detoxifying mud on each other), give an idea of the sense of fun at this fine new hotel.

NAME TO KNOW... Jodie, the reception manager. Ask her to talk you through Bruntwood Hall’s magnificent potted history.

Doubles from £155 +44 (0)1616 973066; oddfellowsonthepark.com

THE PRINCIPAL MANCHESTER MANCHESTER

A recent truism: London excels at happening flagship hotels while the rest of our cities fall behind. It was so, but no longer. New York hotels supremo Barry Sternlicht is rolling out his new brand, Principal, and David Taylor, formerly GM of two innovative London addresses, Hoxton and Edition, is in charge. The results are impressive, not least in Manchester where the former Palace Hotel, which began life in the 1890s as the landmark HQ of Refuge Assurance, has been given a massive injection of life. Now the former typing pool is Refuge, a fabulous, fluid all-day space for eating, drinking, meeting, work and play, curated

by Mancunians Justin Crawford and Luke Cowdrey. The bedrooms make the most of the original features, but best of all is Principal’s attitude to hospitality, interest in the building’s history and the commitment to the local community. A fabulous new hotel for the city.

NAME TO KNOW... Front of house director, Adrian Wright, who can mostly be found entertaining guests in the hotel lobby. He is all seeing, all knowing and a pleasure to meet.

Doubles from £119 +44 (0)1612 881111; theprincipalhotel.com/manchester 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 187

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THE PRINCIPAL YORK YORK

A cool £15m was spent on restoring one of Britain’s greatest Victorian railway stations to its former glory and we have Principal hotels to thank for the thoughtful update that this landmark building deserves. Once a stopover for Queen Victoria en route to Balmoral, The Principal York perfectly blends the grandeur of late-Victorian architecture with the comforts of modern travel – how many hotels can be accessed straight from the train platform?

You couldn’t be better placed to explore historic York, with the impressive Minster and ancient city walls just a short stroll away.

Retreating from the city is just as easy: at the heart of the hotel are two large, light-filled open spaces – the lobby lounge, which contains the hotel’s dramatic staircase, and The Garden Room beyond, which looks out over the hotel’s manicured gardens. Needless to say, this fine addition to the Principal portfolio aspires to be your final destination.

NAME TO KNOW... Yorkshire lass and meeting and events manager Denise Walker.

A visit to the hotel isn’t complete without a smile or chat with her.

Doubles from £139 +44 (0)1904 653681; theprincipalhotel.com/york

THE ROSE & CROWN ROMALDKIRK, COUNTY DURHAM

For anyone seeking a quintessential English inn, loved by regulars and first-time visitors alike for its warmth, character, comfort and good, honest food, all set in beautiful surroundings, then you need look no further than the wonderful Rose & Crown. Run by the excellent Robinson family, who also own the popular County Durham hotel, Headlam Hall, the inn is in the best possible hands and continues seamlessly to do what it has always done so well: offer honest hospitality in an archetypical rural hostelry – with thick stone walls, beamed ceiling and stone fires, but with enough contemporary touches to blend old-fashioned charm with modern comfort and expectation. In the two AA rosette restaurant, you’ll find locally made oak tables and gleaming silver; in each of the 14 inviting bedrooms (Main House, Courtyard and Monk’s Cottage) expect good books and a Bose soundsystem. Well-placed for walking in the spectacular Dales countryside and fly-fishing on the nearby Tees (tuition can be arranged).

NAME TO KNOW... Cheryl. Ask her about where to go for a great walk, she has done almost all of them and knows the best watering holes too.

Doubles from £115 +44 (0)1833 650213; rose-and-crown.co.uk 188 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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RUDDING PARK HARROGATE, NORTH YORKSHIRE

A glorious, privately-owned gem and one of Yorkshire’s finest hotels, Rudding Park has a new feather to add to its rather well-endowed cap; the recent opening of a swishy destination spa. It offers a UK first in the form of its rooftop spa garden, designed by horticulturist Matthew Wilson. When you’re not bobbing about in the hydrotherapy infinity pool, in the sauna infused with herbs from the kitchen garden or having a Carita facial, there’s plenty else to do within the 300 acres of landscaped park and woodland, including an 18-hole golf course. The accommodation is in two wings, which offer a range of bedrooms, from doubles to luxuriously lavish spa suites complete with steam room and private garden. The personal touch seamlessly runs throughout and with the spa addition, Rudding Park has created a hotel splash whose ripples will reverberate throughout the country and beyond.

NAME TO KNOW... Kitchen gardener, Adrian Reeve, who grows hundreds of different herbs, salads, edible flowers and fruits. The herbs’ essences are used in the herbal steam room in the spa.

Doubles from £172 +44 (0)1423 871350; ruddingpark.co.uk

THE SWAN HOTEL & SPA NEWBY BRIDGE, CUMBRIA

In an idyllic riverside spot at the southern tip of Lake Windermere, The Swan started life in the 17th century as a coaching inn, but has evolved dramatically since then. Today, it has plenty to recommend it – stylish decoration, delicious food, a spoiling spa and health club (including a pool) and children’s indoor and outdoor play areas. After suffering flood damage in December 2015, it underwent a stunning refurbishment and reopened in 2016, with walls freshly painted in vibrant colours or covered in jazzy statement paper. The look is elegant country style, with wood floors and rustic furniture. The distinctive bedrooms range from the cosy to spacious suites; most sumptuous is the Fabulous loft, with a marble bathroom and an in-room roll-top bath.

The home-cooked gastropub food is served in The Swan Inn pub and the classy River Room, while light lunches are on offer at The Fruity Fish juice bar or on the terrace in the sun.

NAME TO KNOW... The Harrison brothers, Lee, Craig and Jordan, who are all members of the management team. Ask them what and where to eat and drink.

Doubles from £142 +44 (0)1539 531681; swanhotel.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 189

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Wales & The Marches As well as its stunning national parks, epic coastline and castles aplenty, Wales and the border country are making very strong foodie names for themselves too

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Lukasz Warzecha, ‘Running Crib Goch’, Snowdonia, North Wales (Landscape Photographer of the Year – Living the View 2016). lwimages.co.uk

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

At the end of every May, join the literati at the UK’s favourite book festival in Hay, where the small town, with more than its fair share of bookshops, attracts names as diverse as Eddie Izzard, Miriam González Durántez (and her husband Nick Clegg), Helen Fielding and Colm Toíbín. hayfestival.com

Whovians (that’s Dr Who fans to the uninitiated), listen up. Head to Porth Teigr in Cardiff Bay and immerse yourself in the world of one of television’s most famous creations.

Book now. 2017 will be its last year. doctorwho.tv

SPRING

SUMMER

Celebrate Wales’ most famous literary son on International Dylan Thomas day also in May. As well as a whole series of events, do make sure you visit his boathouse in Laugharne, where he wrote many of his most famous works.

For something eccentric, get a showside seat (or even take part!) in a curious range of events such the Man vs Horse race over 25 miles. The horse has only been beaten twice. Or why not try stone skimming, bog snorkeling or a cider cycle. Steady now. green-events.co.uk

Four Seasons Fabulous food, wild walks, bog snorkeling and the last season of the Dr Who Experience

Welsh castles – as romantic as they are – can be a wee bit chilly which is why we suggest visiting ones where you can grab a hot cuppa and maybe a Welsh cake afterwards, so do check out Cardiff, Powys, Pembroke, Carew and Penrhyn.

Cardiff is at the vanguard of a new Welsh foodie scene.

Check out gems like 100 per cent vegan Anna Loka (annaloka.com), or the splendid Chapel 1877, where you might dine on roast rump of welsh lamb with parmentier potatoes (chapel1877.com).

AUTUMN

WINTER

Good walks are de rigueur in Wales, but have you been to the tip of Worm’s Head? This serpentine promontory will take you to the most westerly tip of the Gower Peninsula. But do check the tide times. You can get stuck out there like Dylan Thomas once did.

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK

This year the Brecon Beacons celebrates 60 years of National Park status. The movie Jurassic World 2 (released in 2018) will also be shot on location there, so get outside and discover it for yourselves especially at night (it has Dark Sky status and winter is the best time to see the brightest stars). breconbeacons.org

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WALES & THE MARCHES

Porky products from Pontnewydd

LIVE LIKE A LOCAL ILLTUD’S TOP WELSH TIP-OFFS

PIZZA Once a pop-up, Dusty Knuckle Pizza has a permanent site in Cardiff and a soon-to-come one in Swansea.

It makes great pizzas with as much locally sourced as possible. dustyknucklepizza.co.uk

Welsh Bangers

Illtud Dunsford left a career in film and photography to make charcuterie in Wales

Illtud Dunsford

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK

How did you come to make charcuterie in Wales?

It’s a long story with various twists and turns. The farm near Pontnewydd, Llanelli was my uncle’s but we spent all our holidays there. As a child, I remember the annual killing of the pigs and the making of the products – the brawn, sausages and so on. He sold his herd in the early noughties, renting out the land and I had a career in film and photography but the pull was always to the farm.

A few years ago, I decided to return and build a sustainable business based around charcuterie products – mostly pork but also beef and lamb.

How easy has it been? It has been hard but thoroughly rewarding. We got the land back and slowly built up a herd of pedigree Welsh pigs, although we also buy in from other producers now.

I then set about learning the processes.

How did you develop your products? The vision was to mix the old Welsh (and other) traditions

with the new, so I travelled to places where the products are made. I wanted to watch and to be hands-on so I could learn thoroughly. I also spent time studying a leading industrial course in a meat lab in Iowa. In order to make good tasting and safe products, you have to know how and what happens. It’s all about knowledge, understanding, touch, feel and taste. I’ve travelled everywhere from the Faroe Islands, to Italy and North America – always looking, learning and, of course, tasting.

What do you make? At the beginning on 2015, we opened a new, modern processing unit where we make a range of products from fresh British sausages – all made with natural skins – to Italianstyle using fennel. There’s German Bratwurst and frankfurters, French boudin blanc and boudin noir, salt beef pastrami and pepperoni for pizzas.

We cure bacon, chorizo, Italian-style salamis and have just starting producing lardo – pork fatback cured with rosemary and other herbs, which originates from Tuscany.

What has been your biggest triumph? Winning the BBC Food and Farming Award – it blew us away as it recognised the ethos of our business – the importance of sourcing the right standards in order to create good products. There’s a growing trend for British-based charcutiers producing traditional British and continental products. And we are proud to be part of this movement. charcutier.co.uk

PRODUCE Look out for Rhosyn lamb from Carmarthenshire, they pop up at various markets.

MARKET Uplands Market takes place on the last Saturday of every month and sells a huge range of Welsh produce from crafts, hand-made items to fresh food. uplandsmarket.com

FARM Visit Blaencamel Farm for great vegetables, walks and to learn about growing organically. blaencamel.com

SHOP Watson & Pratt’s is a great food shop in Lampeter and will mail order Charcutier’s products. watsonandpratts.co.uk

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WALES & THE MARCHES

METHOD

Mussels that aren’t rope grown can come with barnacles and mud attached, also long unappetising beards that need to be tugged out before cooking.

Cleaned mussels will have a much shorter shelf life but involve a lot less effort.

Bring the mussels to the boil with the white wine in a covered saucepan.

In a separate pan, melt the butter and then fry the shallots and garlic. Add the curry paste and saffron, then stir in the flour.

Add the cooking liquor INGREDIENTS from the mussels, one-third at SERVES SIX a time, stirring » 2kg mussels, to the boil. preferably cleaned: Add the discard any broken ones or those that refuse to crème fraîche, close when tapped on lemon juice the work surface and parsley, » 300ml white wine » 60g butter then season. » 100g shallots, chopped Mix in the » 1 garlic clove mussels and serve. » 2 tsp curry paste » » » » »

Pinch of saffron threads 35g plain flour 200ml crème fraîche 1 tsp lemon juice 1 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley » Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Extracted from Salt is Essential

by Shaun Hill (Kyle Books, £25)

Mussel In Chef-owner of The Walnut Tree in Abergavenny, Shaun Hill is one of our great British chefs. This dish allows Welsh-coast mussels to sing This curried mussel dish can be used as a backdrop to some prime specimen like turbot or bass. Just grill the fish and lay it on top of the mouclade. It’s rather fine just as it is though and an interesting change from moules marinières. Mussels have a full and distinctive flavour that can stand up to most treatments and win.

They are also tasty breadcrumbed and deep-fried with a dip, maybe just tartare or tomato sauce. Shame to lose the glorious mussel stock, though.

Shaun Hill

PHOTOS: TAMIN JONES

MOUCLADE

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Beautifully illuminated life size trees For sales or rental enquiries sales@enchantedtrees.co.uk |

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www.enchantedtrees.co.uk

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE ANGEL ABERGAVENNY, MONMOUTHSHIRE

With fine views from its once mighty castle, the bustling market town of Abergavenny plays host to two special places that, paired together, make for a memorable – and affordable – gourmet break. The centrally located Angel hotel is the smart, yet relaxed and welcoming town hub. Locals pop in for a drink in The Foxhunter Bar, others dine in the popular Oak Room restaurant, and throngs of people indulge in delectable, award-winning afternoon teas. The bedrooms upstairs are calm and stylish with snow-white beds dressed with pretty Welsh-wool throws and elegant bathrooms.

Or choose a room in one of the nearby cottages, including one in the castle grounds.

Just outside town at Llanddewi Skirrid is The Angel’s sister restaurant, The Walnut Tree, where the uncomplicated yet sublime, Michelinstarred dishes of Shaun Hill are many a foodie’s idea of perfection, served with a refreshing lack of pomp in simple, attractive surroundings.

NAME TO KNOW... Tea sommelier, Ana Wood, is happy to advise on which of the many carefully selected teas to enjoy with your high tea.

Doubles from £101 +44 (0)1873 857121; angelabergavenny.com

THE BEAR HOTEL CRICKHOWELL, POWYS

The Bear and Crickhowell go hand in hand, like Welsh cakes and bara brith: hardly surprising when you know that the former coaching inn has been offering hospitality to the people of the delightful Brecon Beacons town and weary travellers alike since 1432. The Bear brims with character; low beams, antiques, roaring log fires and most of all bonhomie, you couldn’t ask for more. Outside, the attractive white and black beamed building drips with hanging baskets, with a cobbled forecourt and archway into the inner courtyard. In the bar, a 19thcentury stagecoach timetable is still on display. The oak-beamed bedrooms in the main house are charming, comfortable and a step back in time, while there are larger, more modern rooms in the converted stables and coach house. Best of all is the highly regarded food. ‘Eat at the Bear and leave satisfied, that’s our aim,’ they say. And you will.

NAME TO KNOW... Co-owner of The Bear, Steve Hindmarsh, whose family has been running it for over 40 years and are veritable experts on the area.

Doubles from £107 +44 (0)1873 810408; bearhotel.co.uk 196 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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WALES & THE MARCHES

THE BELL AT SKENFRITH SKENFRITH, MONMOUTHSHIRE

Contemporary and cosy rarely coincide, but this stylishly converted 17th-century coaching inn is one place that convincingly combines the two. The Bell has been winning awards since 1999, when it was fully restored, and committed owners Sarah and Richard have been busy since they took over in 2014, maintaining its warm atmosphere and enhancing its reputation for seasonal food. The Dog and Boot Bar is a flourishing meeting spot for locals, where both mutts and wellies are equally welcome, and food and drink are served all day (don’t miss Sarah’s homemade cakes). The inn has a magnificent setting beside the River Monnow, with comfy sofas beside the fires. In the candlelit, flagstone dining room, modern British dishes (with ingredients from the kitchen garden) are supported by a well-organised wine list.

Many of the 11 sophisticated bedrooms, each charmingly named after a trout fly, have beams, four posters and billowing white duvets.

NAME TO KNOW... Jim, the gardener and general factotum, who can usually be found in the kitchen garden. He can tell you all about what’s growing at the moment.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1600 750235; skenfrith.co.uk

BODYSGALLEN HALL LLANDUDNO, CONWY

One of three National Trust-owned Historic House Hotels, Bodysgallen Hall is a dignified, gentle paced island of calm, close to Llandudno’s famous promenade and beaches. Climb its tower, built as a lookout for Conwy Castle – the medieval core of the fine 17th-century mansion – and you’ll be rewarded with a panoramic view. The house has enormous character, with 15 antiques-filled bedrooms and 16 postcard-pretty cottages scattered around the estate’s 200 acres of wooded parkland.

Grass terraces overlook the award-winning gardens, which include a walled rose garden, cascade and rare 17th-century parterre of box hedges filled with herbs. There is a formal dining room in the main hall: Llandudno’s best restaurant, serving delicious locally sourced dishes. The former farmhouse now houses the spa with a large indoor pool, plus steam room, sauna and solarium. All in all, Bodysgallen Hall is one of the loveliest hotels in Britain.

NAME TO KNOW... Head gardener Robert Owen, who has a wealth of knowledge about the continuing development of the original garden plans conceived by the Mostyn family.

Doubles from £185 +44 (0)1492 584466; bodysgallen.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 197

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

CASTLE HOUSE HEREFORD, HEREFORDSHIRE

Castle House hotel is an elegant Grade II-listed mansion, with an unrivalled location, owned by the Watkins family. Hereford is a tranquil city, whose fine cathedral houses the world-famous Mappa Mundi and Chained Library. Peace reigns in the hotel’s enchanting terraced garden, overlooking the old castle moat. Of the lightfilled public rooms, the smart sitting room and restaurant have French doors leading on to the garden. The latter is the domain of one of the country’s top female chefs, Claire Nicholls, whose imaginative food has won a clutch of awards. For light meals and cocktails, there’s the Ballingham Bar and Bistro. The 24 bedrooms and suites are all stylish and individual, split between the main building and Number 25 Townhouse, where there are eight striking rooms, each offering an array of treats, from a hospitality box filled with local produce to underfloor heating in the bathrooms. A hotel that fits perfectly into its surroundings and ticks all the boxes.

NAME TO KNOW... George Watkins. When he’s not on the farm, in the kitchen garden or tending his pedigree herd, he’s working at the hotel and is happy to answer any questions.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1432 356321; castlehse.co.uk

THE FELIN FACH GRIFFIN BRECON, POWYS

This is the first of Edmund and Charlie Inkin’s three wonderfully unpretentious and enjoyable establishments (see also The Gurnard’s Head, page 45 and Old Coastguard, page 49). Set amid magnificent scenery between the Black Mountains and Brecon Beacons, the plain but pleasing old inn has become a sanctuary for food lovers, walkers and literary visitors to the nearby book town of Hay-on-Wye. They love the honest simplicity, the warmth of welcome, colour and comfort, both in ground floor rooms whose names say it all – Library, Tack Room, Aga Room – and in bedrooms whose beds and linens are second to none. Curl up here with one of the books that lie around the building, listen to your Roberts radio or simply gaze out at the hills. You are truly ‘enveloped with a big cuddle’ here and after a surprisingly refined dinner based on the Welsh larder, you’ll head for bed with an equally big smile on your face.

NAME TO KNOW... Gardener Phoebe Boulanger, who has been running The Griffin’s organic kitchen garden for three years and is happy to speak to guests on all gardening matters.

Doubles from £135 +44 (0)1874 620111; felinfachgriffin.co.uk 198 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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WALES & THE MARCHES

GLIFFAES CRICKHOWELL, POWYS

Standing above the River Usk and crowned by two quirky campaniles, Gliffaes was built in the 1880s in Italianate style. There are lovely grounds and, for fishermen, five salmon and trout beats along the river.

For the last 60 years it has been in the same family, and now Susie and James Suter run it with hands-on dedication. It’s hard to imagine a more peaceful hotel. Sitting on the wide stone terrace with nothing but the sound of birdsong and the rushing riverbelow certainly helps, but for peace to really take hold, the hotel itself has to be genuine, unpretentious, satisfying for its guests and loved by its owners. There are 23 bedrooms, four of which have superlative views over the river and the sky-high hill that rises beyond it. With country-house fabrics and comfortable bathrooms, they are traditional and pretty. There are copious afternoon teas, James Suter’s knockout martinis and, in the dining room, satisfying dishes that hit the spot.

NAME TO KNOW... Man in charge James Suter, who’s a dab hand at cocktails.

Doubles from £140 +44 (0)1874 730371; gliffaeshotel.com

GROVE OF NARBERTH NARBERTH, PEMBROKESHIRE

This striking country house was a wreck when husband-wife duo Neil and Zoe Kedward, took on the challenge of restoring it in 2007.

They opened nine months later as an instantly relaxing restaurant with rooms. There are two main façades: one is three storeys high, gleaming white and many windowed; the other gabled, with arts and crafts elements that are continued inside. This most charming of destinations now has 26 beautiful bedrooms and suites, each with a view of the lovely gardens, surrounding fields or Preseli Hills, including six stunning cottage suites by leading interior designer Martin Hulbert. In the main house, cosy sitting rooms spread out on either side of the front hall, there’s a separate cocktail bar and a light-filled garden room for breakfast.

Dinners in the spacious restaurant or on the terrace are a highlight. Executive Chef Allister Barsby has an outstanding pedigree and his food is imaginative yet uncomplicated, grown in the garden, locally sourced and quite superb.

NAME TO KNOW...Head gardener, Jerry. Ask him about the kitchen garden which provides over 70 varieties of fruit, veg and herbs.

Doubles from £190 +44 (0)1834 860915; thegrove-narberth.co.uk 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 199

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

LLANGOED HALL LLYSWEN, POWYS

One of the best country-house hotels in Britain, with numerous awards to prove it, Llangoed Hall has never felt better. It was Sir Bernard Ashley, widower of Laura, who bought and restored the Jacobean mansion – redesigned by Clough Williams-Ellis in 1912, which was once lost in a card game – as a showcase for his wife’s fabrics and wallpapers. Today it is still managed by the excellent Calum Milne and still filled with Sir Bernard’s furniture and fine collection of mainly early 20th-century British art. The bedrooms are particularly lovely, full of personal touches and pretty things, with views of the Wye Valley and Black Mountains. And dinner is a real treat, courtesy of head chef Nick Brodie: imaginative and intricately presented, yet rooted in local produce, much of it from his burgeoning kitchen garden, where there are also ducks, hens, quail, bees and even a maze. Wander the hotel, playing snooker, admiring the paintings, tinkering on the piano, feeling thoroughly at home.

NAME TO KNOW... Head gardener Mandy, who can show you the hotel’s path to sustainability and why it was awarded Condé Nast Eco Hotel of 2017.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1874 754525; llangoedhall.com

PENALLY ABBEY TENBY, PEMBROKESHIRE

Penally Abbey exudes bonhomie. Many hotels claim it, but few can truly pull it off: you instantly relax and feel at home. Owners Lucas and Melanie Boissevain have brought the lovely late 18th-century Strawberry Gothic House, with characteristic ogee head doors and windows, stunningly back to life; now you enter a spacious hallway with wood-burning stove; there follows a bar that opens on to a pretty conservatory, an elegant yet homely sitting room and a glamorous candlelit dining room set with white-clothed tables. Melanie’s look – she is an interior designer – mixes an appropriately traditional feel with judiciously stylish touches, and the 11 bedrooms are equally charming: restful and comfortable spaces, most with sea views, in which it’s a pleasure to while away time. Each one includes a delightful hand-illustrated guide of things to do and see in the area. It sums up the charms of this exceptional hotel and its lovely gardens where, by the way, the food is very good too.

NAME TO KNOW... Receptionists Lizzie and Alison, who are always full of great ideas for things to do. Head to the cosy reception and plan your Pembrokeshire adventure.

Doubles from £160 +44 (0)1834 843033; penally-abbey.com 200 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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WALES & THE MARCHES

PLAS BODEGROES PWLLHELI, GWYNEDD

It’s nearly 30 years since Plas Bodegroes first opened as a hotel and restaurant, and mercifully very little has changed. Chris Chown still dons his chef’s whites every day, and still cooks breakfast under the stewardship of head chef Hugh Bracegirdle. His wife Gunna remains the picture of elegance, though nowadays a delightful manager, Holly, allows her to take time off. Their home (the English translation is Rosehip Hall) is a charming Georgian manor with a delicate frill of a veranda smothered in wisteria and roses in summer. With its flowery courtyard and heart-shaped swathe of lawn leading to a 200-year-old avenue of beech trees, it’s a truly romantic place. The bedrooms are pretty and comfortable and the food in the delightful dining room some of the best in Wales. Try fragrant Welsh lamb or line-caught local sea bass, accompanied by kindly priced wines and served by a dedicated local team. Perfection.

NAME TO KNOW... Head gardener, Julia Thomas, who has been with the hotel for 23 years. Ask her whatever you like, she knows all there is to know about Plas Bodegroes.

Doubles from £110 +44 (0)1758 612363; bodegroes.co.uk

YNYSHIR RESTAURANT & ROOMS MACHYNLLETH, POWYS

Ynyshir is a special place and it harbours Wales’s most exciting restaurant, spearheaded by young chef patron Gareth Ward, who achieved a Michelin star in under a year of his arrival four years ago. Ynyshir’s former owner knew that Gareth was destined for success and, together, their vision made the restaurant with ten vibrant yet soothing bedrooms, into a prime foodie destination, which Gareth maintains today. Among his menus, simple but flavour-packed dishes are presented on two extended three-hour dinner menus, with some unexpected culinary fireworks, including fun with liquid nitrogen and superb wines to match. Nearby Ynyslas beach and the dramatic mountains and valleys surrounding Ynyshir are perfect for stretching the legs after a delicious meal. It is in the surrounding area that the chefs forage ingredients that are used in the kitchen and upon which lambs graze.

NAME TO KNOW... Chef patron, Gareth.

Ask him for his insight into modern cooking techniques and the best places to forage in the local area.

Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1654 781209; ynyshir.co.uk 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 201

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Scotland From the lowlands to the highlands and the islands beyond, go here to escape and lose yourself in its raw and visceral beauty

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Robert Fulton, ‘Winter Field’, Stirlingshire, Scotland (Landscape Photographer of the Year – Overall Winners Adult Class 2011). rfultonphotos.com

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS The Callanish Stones on the Isle of Lewis were placed there in the Neolithic era where it was a site for Bronze Age rituals. In folklore, the stones were petrified giants who resisted converting to Christianity.

Hop aboard a steam train and take in the Scottish landscape from the comfort of a railway carriage. Harry Potter fans will be delighted to cross the Glenfinnan viaduct, recognisable from the films. westcoastrailways.co.uk

SPRING

SUMMER

Beltane Fire Festival marks the changing seasons with drums, fire and theatre atop the iconic Calton Hill in Edinburgh. Watch the May Queen as she makes her way around the hill and through the great arch of fire. beltane.org

Admire the Queen’s former yacht, The Royal Yacht Britannia, berthed in Edinburgh. Book in for a private tour to enjoy a glass of champagne on deck and avoid the crowds. royalyachtbritannia.co.uk Jupiter Artland, set in the grounds of a Jacobean manor house, is an eclectic and fascinating collection of modern art, great for a day out with a difference. jupiterartland.org

Said to be the most beautiful castle in Scotland, Glamis in Angus looks spectacular with leaves on the ground and is famed as being the setting for Shakespeare’s Macbeth and the childhood home of The Queen Mother. glamis-castle.co.uk

In Sutherland, a four-mile walk through unruly heather takes you to Sandwood Bay and a mile-long stretch of remote beach. Bring a cricket bat and ball, or your swimsuit if you’re feeling brave.

Four Seasons Islands, Highlands, whisky tours and wonderful walks in complete seclusion

AUTUMN

WINTER

The Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh is still blooming marvellous in autumn. Enjoy the flora and fauna housed in impressive glasshouses and lovely gardens. rbge.org.uk

Take a tour of the Strathisla distillery, the oldest working one in the Highlands. Long or short, all tours are rounded off with a tutored tasting of the drams. chivas.com

Go for a ski at Glenshee where there are 22 lifts and 36 runs to take advantage of, with something to suit all abilities. ski-glenshee. co.uk

Head to the House of Bruar for a spot of Christmas shopping and a delicious lunch. The House of Bruar prides itself as the leading Scottish country clothing provider in the UK, and is situated at the gateway to the Highlands. houseofbruar.com

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK; © MARC QUIIN,. COURTESY JUPITER ARTLAND

Walk to the summit of Arthur’s Seat in Edinburgh for spectacular views of the city and snow-capped mountains in the distance. Then head to the Sheep Heid Inn for a warming hot chocolate and a game of skittles.

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SCOTLAND

Fishing for seaweed

LIVE LIKE A LOCAL ON XA’S RADAR…

DRINK The Isle of Harris Distillery produces an extraordinary gin. What makes it very special is the additional flavour from sugar kelp that is hand harvested by a local diver. Apparently, it is best drunk on the rocks with their sugar kelp water. harrisdistillery.com

Celtic Kelp Xa Milne at Mara Seaweed is changing perceptions of Scottish seaweeds

PHOTOS: ANGUS BREMNER; THINKSTOCK

Xa Milne

How did you get started? Fiona Houston and I were playground mums and we used to talk about our hobbies and interests. We both loved wild foods and so decided to write a book on foraging. Mara Seaweed grew from there.

Why seaweeds? Seaweeds contain lots of iodine but less sodium than salt. Think of Japanese food – seaweed introduces umami, the much discussed fifth, savoury taste.

And we’re not talking leaf seaweed but the whole plant – which not many people use because they can be difficult to cook. We’ve concentrated on dried then flaked or powdered seaweeds – red dulse, kombu and shony – they’re great

MARKET

for cooking with. Use them in exactly the same way as you might salt or any spice.

Who inspired you to cook with seaweed? First off, Scotland, with its long coastline and clear waters, is the obvious place to gather seaweed.

We’ve worked with local chefs who have helped us develop the products so they are very user friendly. My real hero is Prannie Rhatigan, an Irish medical doctor who has spent a lifetime harvesting, cooking and gardening organically with sea vegetables.

What has been your biggest challenge? Changing peoples’ perceptions. Most people still think of seaweed as wet, slimy and smelly. If only they knew what a treasure chest of flavours lies there... but slowly, slowly – we’ll get there.

What’s your favourite way of using seaweed? I make a quick lunch by slicing a ripe avocado and adding sliced cucumber and tomato, then pouring over a little olive oil and a squeeze of lemon before shaking over some powdered dulse. And what a difference it makes. It lifts and intensifies the flavours. maraseaweed.com

Eddie’s Seafood Market – where Scotland’s waters provide most of the fish and shellfish – is a relatively new addition and supplies many of Edinburgh’s restaurants. eddiesseafood.co.uk

RESTAURANT Chef Patron Roy Brett of Ondine in Edinburgh cooks and serves the finest seafood and shellfish from the east coast of Scotland and beyond. ondinerestaurant.co.uk

SHOP With three branches in and around Edinburgh, Earthy is a great sustainable grocer stocking as much local-grown produce as is possible. earthy.co.uk

INGREDIENT Visit Anstruther Harbour in Fife for the freshest lobsters. They’ll cook them for you to take them home, or down to the beach for a picnic.

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SCOTLAND

A Cut Above Gleneagles’ Executive Chef, Warren Brown knows how to treat proper Scotch beef

PAN-SEARED TENDERLOIN BEEF

It doesn’t get better than a sizzling pan-seared tenderloin of Scottish beef. A cut this delicious doesn’t warrant too much fuss, simply add a crust of capers, red pepper, cucumber and celeriac.

The red wine and balsamic glaze finishes off the dish, which is best served with asparagus, depending on the season.

Heat the oven to 180°C. Trim the beef tenderloin and wrap in cling film. Put in the fridge until firm. Meanwhile peel the red pepper, celeriac and cucumber, and dice in to small squares. Next remove the capers from the brine.

Place balsamic into a small saucepan and reduce by half (the more you reduce, the sweeter it will be). Put the beef jus in a pan and reduce until it can coat the back of a spoon. Add the reduced balsamic to taste.

Place the butter and a little olive oil in to a pan to sauté off the diced celeriac INGREDIENTS until soft, then remove and SERVES ONE do the same » 160g beef tenderloin for the » 10g cucumber rest of the » 10g red pepper » 10g celeriac, peeled ingredients. » 10g pickled capers Remove » 100ml beef jus your beef » 50ml balsamic vinegar, reduced by half so it cut from the becomes sweet fridge, season » 20g unsalted butter and place in » 10ml olive oil » 2 sprigs of thyme a frying pan with butter and a little olive oil and the sprigs of thyme. Brown the beef on both sides before placing in the oven for seven minutes or until your liking. Rest the beef for ten minutes.

Finish off the sauce with a little butter, which will give it a nice shine. Reheat the sautéed vegetables, season, then add the capers and cucumber on top of the beef.

Drizzle the finished sauce on the plate, place the beef on top and garnish with asparagus blanched Warren Brown in salted water.

PHOTOS: MACNEILL PHOTOGRAPHY

METHOD

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JOURNEY TO THE HEART OF THE HIGHLANDS EXPLORE THE WILD WONDERS AND UNIQUE HERITAGE OF SCOTLAND ABOARD THIS INTIMATE, LUXURY TRAIN ON JOURNEYS OF TWO TO SEVEN-NIGHTS. DISCOVER ANCIENT CASTLES, GLORIOUS GARDENS AND FAMOUS DISTILLERIES, OR RELAX IN THE NEW ONBOARD BAMFORD HAYBARN SPA.

HOTELS | TRAINS | RIVER CRUISES | JOURNEYS | BELMOND.COM

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

ARISAIG HOUSE ARISAIG, INVERNESS-SHIRE

Handsome, greystone Arisaig House was designed in the 1860s as a shooting lodge

by Philip Webb, ‘father of the Arts and Crafts movement’, and its position, surrounded by 19 acres of landscaped gardens in the wild wooded landscape of the West Highlands, is dramatically beautiful. The ultimate place to get away from it all, it is family owned and run, and has a reassuringly friendly feel. Chef-manager Sarah Winnington-Ingram and her husband Peter go to great lengths to make their guests feel at home. Downstairs, there are open fires, deep sofas and contemporary paintings (which are for sale); upstairs, the bedrooms are wonderfully comfortable, adorned with flowers, books and well-chosen ornaments. Sarah is a passionate cook and her food is seasonal, locally sourced and memorably good. There’s plenty to occupy you here too – croquet, tennis and billiards for starters, or you could sign up for one of Arisaig’s residential painting or photography courses.

NAME TO KNOW... Richard, the kilted gardener, who has worked at Arisaig House for over 20 years. Ask him about the garden’s collection of rhododendrons and azaleas.

Doubles from £175 +44 (0)1687 450730; arisaighouse.co.uk

FORSS HOUSE THURSO, CAITHNESS

Caithness is compelling: eerie landscapes, enigmatic standing stones, the enchanting Castle of Mey, light-filled night skies in summer, amazing stars and northern lights in winter – and much more. At Forss House, close to Britain’s most northerly point, Dunnet Head, you’ll find easily the best base from which to explore, plus excellent and comfortable salmon fishing on the River Forss, which flows in a picturesque arc around the hotel. Sabine and Ian Richards have owned Forss House for the past dozen years and have decorated it in a way that respects tradition yet also feels fresh. You’ll find tartan carpets, a malt whisky bar, a sunny conservatory for breakfast and an elegant ripple of a shallow Georgian staircase from the light and spacious first-floor master bedrooms. The food is exceptional: don’t miss the Mey Selections beef or Halkirk raspberry soufflé. In short, Forss House is a gem, whose best asset is its manager Anne Mackenzie, the life force here for 30 years.

NAME TO KNOW... Anne. Ask her why you should have a teardrop with your dram.

Doubles from £135 +44 (0)1847 861201; forsshousehotel.co.uk 208 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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SCOTLAND

ISLE OF ERISKA HOTEL ISLE OF ERISKA, ARGYLL

Eriska is magical: a private island where peace wraps around you like a tartan blanket.

A wonderfully rumbly old bridge connects the mainland to the island and its Scottish Baronial Big House, built in 1884. Staying here is much like visiting a grand, oldfashioned private house, with its panelled great hall and roaring log fires. In the librarycum-bar you can browse the books with a malt whisky in hand, or play the piano.

After a fine dinner, served in the smart dining room, morning room and adjoining conservatory, guests gather for an Eriska exclusive: badgers feeding on bread and skimmed milk right in front of them on the terrace. There’s plenty to do: a nine-hole, professionally designed golf course, a spa and leisure centre and – perfect for rainy days – a gleaming multi-purpose sports hall. But, above all, there’s the island itself, all yours, with its seals, otters and dreamlike views.

NAME TO KNOW... Head chef of the Michelin starred restaurant, Paul Leonard. Ask him about his kitchen garden and the sourcing of ingredients from the island and local suppliers.

Doubles from £350 +44 (0)1631 720371; eriska-hotel.co.uk

KILLIECRANKIE HOTEL PITLOCHRY, PERTHSHIRE

‘We believe in good old-fashioned hospitality,’ says owner Henrietta Fergusson, ‘and always welcome guests with a complimentary afternoon tea.’ And there lies the secret of this adorable hotel: the down-to-earth, very Scottish warmth and hospitality extended by Henrietta and her tartan-trousered staff. With direct access to the beautiful Pass of Killiecrankie, the whitewashed 1840s house has been a hotel since 1939 and, despite constant upgrades and redecoration, its traditional, homely feel has been retained.

A four-course table d’hôte dinner is served at white-clothed tables in the dining room, with lighter dishes available in the Bar Conservatory.

The ten bedrooms are elegant and overlook what is perhaps the most memorable feature of Killiecrankie: its enchanting, old-fashioned garden. ‘I don’t want this to be a “treat” sort of place,’ says Henrietta, ‘I just hope people might say, “Let’s go to Killiecrankie and unwind for a couple of days”.’ Absolutely.

NAME TO KNOW... Calum Robertson, manager and so much more, who will advise on everything from walks to the perfect wine to accompany dinner.

Doubles from £275, including dinner +44 (0)1796 473220; killiecrankiehotel.co.uk 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 209

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

KINLOCH LODGE ISLE OF SKYE, ROSS-SHIRE

Foodies flock to Kinloch Lodge. Hardly surprising, since it belongs to the cookery writer Lady Claire Macdonald and her husband, Lord Godfrey, and boasts Michelin-starred Marcello Tully in charge of the kitchen. Brazilian-born Marcello, who arrived in 2007, has kept Kinloch’s culinary reputation very much alive since Claire stepped back; her charming daughter Isabella now runs the hotel. The former hunting lodge stands on the peaceful shores of Loch na Dal. Inside: an immediately welcoming mix of wellbred and unpretentious, with antique furniture, family portraits and, of course, a cosy whisky bar you may never leave. A feeling of good living pervades, and soon it’s time for dinner and Marcello’s fabulous tasting menu, a showcase of his finest dishes such as quail, vegetable and Perthshire honey mousse and chocolate and basil espuma with raspberry sauce. A nightcap, perhaps, and then bed: you will sleep well in your strikingly decorated, very comfortable room.

NAME TO KNOW... Chef director for the last ten years Marcello Tully, who is the man responsible for the hotel’s Michelin star. Ask him if you can take part in a cookery workshop.

Doubles from £260 +44 (0)1471 833333; kinloch-lodge.co.uk

KNOCKINAAM LODGE PORTPATRICK, DUMFRIES AND GALLOWAY

The former Victorian hunting lodge is an awardwinning, small luxury hotel, located on its own beach, with lawns sweeping down to the sea.

There are ten individually designed bedrooms, one of Scotland’s finest restaurants and a woodpanelled whisky bar, home to more than 100 malts. Historically significant, this stunning spot was a secret meeting place of Winston Churchill and General Eisenhower during World War II and continues to offer the perfect tonic for those wishing to escape the limelight for a slower pace of life. Fresh produce from the hotel’s kitchen garden and local suppliers provide head chef Tony Pierce with the perfect ingredients for his delectable tasting menus, presented over five courses. Scotland’s National Book Town, the UK’s first Dark Sky Park, the pretty fishing village of Portpatrick and an abundance of beautiful gardens, including the Royal Botanic Garden at Logan, offer plenty to see and do in this wonderful corner of the country.

NAME TO KNOW... Head chef Tony Pierce. He invites you to experience his exceptional culinary skills with a five-course tasting menu and gourmet weekends.

Doubles from £175 +44 (0)1776 810471; knockinaamlodge.com 210 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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SCOTLAND

PRESTONFIELD HOUSE EDINBURGH

Let’s face it, they don’t make hotels like Prestonfield anymore. Not usually. It’s romantic, it’s opulent and it’s shamelessly seductive. The mansion, in a quiet location, gives no hint of what lies inside. Minimalism be damned. There are swags and columns, brocades and velvets, rich colours and intimate corners. Bedrooms are better described as boudoirs, where velvet, silk and antiques mix with high-tech playthings, and surfaces are scattered with flowers, fruit and candles. Suites are even more lavish: a Gothic day bed, a velvet-hung four-poster, silk toile wallpaper, a silver chariot bath. The two ovalshaped dining rooms become a candlelit Gothic fantasy at night, and the food and the hotel’s impressive wine cellar live up to the ambience.

Staff are relaxed and friendly, and will track you down in whatever intimate sitting room (there are at least four) you are curled up in. And, once you manage to uncurl, Edinburgh awaits.

NAME TO KNOW... Sir Alexander Dick, who owned Prestonfield in the 18th century and was responsible for introducing rhubarb to Scotland. Hence the Rhubarb Restaurant found at Prestonfield today.

Doubles from £355 +44 (0)131 225 7800; prestonfield.com

THE PRINCIPAL EDINBURGH CHARLOTTE SQUARE EDINBURGH

Walk the length of George Street in downtown Edinburgh from the recently renovated Principal Edinburgh George Street (see overleaf), and you will reach another grand hotel sporting a new look. The people behind this masterful revamp are new brand on the block, Principal, who pride themselves on reviving heritage hotels. Ultra-modern facilities lie behind The Principal Edinburgh Charlotte Square’s Georgian façade and all 199 bedrooms and suites have been given a chic new look.

On the ground floor, the restaurant and bar have been completely refurbished. Some things never change, though, like the prestigious address. It is said that the story of Charlotte Square – a fundamental feature of Edinburgh’s New Town – is the story of the rebirth of the city.

How apt then, that one of the city’s oldest hotels should be given a new lease of life.

NAME TO KNOW... Head concierge, Gavin Stirling, who is Edinburgh-born and the treasurer for the Clefs d’Or’s Scottish region.

There is little he doesn’t know about Edinburgh.

Doubles from £209 +44 (0)131 240 5500; theprincipalhotel.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 211

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE PRINCIPAL EDINBURGH GEORGE STREET EDINBURGH

George Street was built in the 18th century as the showpiece street for New Town, and this grand city hotel certainly lives up to the road’s prestigious history. While the pillared entrance hall feels palatial, the rooms are anything but austere, with softly glowing glass pendants by the bedside, Bute blankets in tasteful grey at the foot of the bed and a soft colour palette taken from 19th-century Scottish landscape paintings.

Downstairs is The Printing Press Bar & Kitchen, once home to novelist Susan Ferrier and John Oliphant, whose decendents founded one of Scotland’s most famous publishing houses.

It is here you’ll find the finest Stornoway black pudding at breakfast and Tweed Valley Scotch beef cooked at night. This isn’t the sort of place you forget which city you are in once through the front door, this hotel has a true sense of itself – even the guest services team wear kilts.

NAME TO KNOW... Guest relations manager, Chiara Candiano, who can point you in the direction of Edinburgh’s best sights, like the Water of Leith running through Stockbridge.

Doubles from £189 +44 (0)131 225 1251; theprincipalhotel.com

THE TORRIDON TORRIDON, WESTER ROSS

A former and still very grand shooting lodge, The Torridon has one of the Highlands’ most stunning locations. It stands on a beautiful sea loch in 58 acres of parkland, with breathtaking views all around. The staff are charming and its interiors particularly fine – the public rooms have been meticulously restored to their former glory and the 18 lovely bedrooms combine the elegantly classic with an upbeat contemporary look. In the pretty sitting room, relax in a window seat perfectly positioned for that view. In the 3 AA Rosette restaurant, head chef David Barnett combines Scottish ingredients with French flair; his stand-out dishes include venison, grouse, razor clams and John Dory. After dinner, head for the whisky bar, stocked with more than 365 malts. There are various outdoor activities on the doorstep, from cycling and bird watching to kayaking and sea loch cruises. You’ll find 12 simple rooms at the cosy Torridon Inn, or for a spoiling and private experience try the two-bedroom Boat House (weekly lets).

NAME TO KNOW... Head chef David Barnett.

Ask him about his cured Parma ham, sourced from the Torridon Farm.

Doubles from £255 +44 (0)1445 791242; thetorridon.com 212 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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SCOTLAND

WINDLESTRAW WALKERBURN, PEEBLESSHIRE

The name alone piques your interest, and once found, nothing at this delightful Tweed Valley bolthole dampens it. If you love the outdoor life, but also returning each day to a place that manages to be both chic and convivial, then head for the Scottish Borders and this Edwardian country house, with lovely interiors, where absolute peace and tranquility are guaranteed. Hidden in a sheltered garden, with views over the River Tweed and the hills beyond, Windlestraw is now owned by John and Sylvia Matthews, who have created a six-bedroom haven for their guests, with the added pleasure of highly accomplished, locally sourced food.

The contemporary country-house bedrooms are cosseting, some with a chaise longue, perfect for lounging, all with gorgeous, spotless bathrooms. Chat with fellow guests, play the grand piano, admire the original features of the house, warm yourself by the fires, take tea on the suntrap terrace or walk from the door into the beautiful countryside. Heaven.

NAME TO KNOW... Owner, Sylvia, who is passionate about the Scottish Borders. Ask her where to visit, be it walks, gardens or abbeys.

Doubles from £175 +44 (0)1896 870636; windlestraw.co.uk

WITCHERY BY THE CASTLE EDINBURGH

James Thomson’s Gothic conversion of this 16th-century building is as darkly mysterious and thrillingly exotic as Prestonfield House, his other hotel (see page 211). At the top of Edinburgh’s historic Royal Mile, it’s named after the hundreds of witches that were burned nearby. You enter through an ancient close into a flamboyantly theatrical world, where ceilings are richly gilded and painted, walls are hung with tapestries or panelled in oak, and rooms are decorated in jewel-like colours with swathes of velvet. Its nine suites are vast, sumptuous and wickedly romantic, furnished with four-posters or extravagantly curtained beds, antiques and oil paintings. A celebrity haunt, the Witchery restaurant not only looks magical, with its red leather seats, panelling and candlelight, but showcases the best produce Scotland has to offer. The Angus beef steak tartare is legendary. In summer, there’s al fresco dining on the private terrace of the hotel’s other restaurant, The Secret Garden.

NAME TO KNOW... Thomas Lowthian, the merchant for whom the building was built in 1595. You’ll still find his initials and motto above the entrance.

Doubles from £345 +44 (0)131 225 5613; thewitchery.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 213

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Ireland If you haven’t visited the Emerald Isle, prepare to be utterly charmed by both Northern Ireland and Éire’s natural beauty and utter lack of pretension, plus some of the finest country-house hotels in the world

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Stephen Emerson, ‘Ballintoy’, Northern Ireland (Landscape Photographer of the Year – Living the View 2008). captivelandscapes.com

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS Take a jaw-dropping walk 100 feet above the sea to Carrick-a-Rede Island, home to a single building – a fisherman’s cottage, in County Antrim. Each March, the National Trust holds an open day with free access to the rope bridge and free guided tours of the lone fishery.

Saddle up for ‘the other Galway races’, which takes place on the sands of Omey Island; a tidal island on the western edge of Connemara.

SPRING Go wild on The Burren – the lunar landscape in County Clare is a sight to behold year-round, but particularly arresting in April when the wildflowers begin to poke through its stony crevices.

SUMMER

Abandon all table manners and get stuck in at the Dublin Bay Prawn Festival each March, which overlooks Howth’s stunning harbour. dublinbayprawnfestival.ie

Catch the last of the purple heather (July to October) on the Wicklow mountains – the hills in which the Irish rebels once hid – then shoot off across The Sally Gap for views of the surrounding blanket bog.

Follow the flock of puffins that make their way to Skellig Michael, a rocky island crop some 12 km off the coast of south-west Ireland, for their summer holidays.

Four Seasons From opera, pub gigs and bogs to prawns, puffins and ponies

Take a trip to the seaside. It may not sound like the most wintry activity but Strandhill beach in County Sligo is both surreal and sublime when the snow tops the Knocknarea Mountain looming from behind the waves.

WINTER Attend the most ancient light show of all time at the neolithic Newgrange monument, County Meath, on the winter solstice.

Discover lesser-known masterpieces at the annual Wexford Festival Opera, which, in 2017, opens with Medea by Luigi Cherubini, directed by Fiona Shaw. wexfordopera.com

Rock up to Dingle, west Kerry, with a bevy of artists for Other Voices, a live music series held every December. If you aren’t lucky enough to nab a ticket to one of the gigs at St James’ Church, there are live streams at pubs around town. othervoices.ie

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK; STORYTRAVELERS; VISIT IRELAND

AUTUMN

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IRELAND

Beef is aged in a Himalayan salt chamber

LIVE LIKE A LOCAL PETER’S PICKS

MARKET St George’s Market, the last surviving Victorian covered market in Belfast was voted best market by the Observer Food Monthly with Fridays being the day to visit for local producers.

Where’s the Beef?

COOKERY SCHOOL

Peter Hannan, a butcher whose search for excellence knows no boundaries

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK

Peter Hannan

How long have you been in the meat trade? I’ve worked in the meat business for more years than it’s polite to remember. As a child, I was involved in taking the animals from the family farm off to the abattoir and I couldn’t wait to leave school and start work properly. From then, I worked for large scale meat processors, and even went to Chicago to the meatpacking houses but somehow running various businesses just wasn’t enough.

What happened next? I was about 28 and I had this feeling I wanted to make a difference. Working in the commercial meat world was about volume and profit with no attention to detail, no passion for food. I wanted to get out of the fast lane and carve out a niche where I could do something different.

Meat was being dry-aged but the process was all about controlling the temperature. I had this vision, I wanted to create meat that was really special. So in 1989 I founded Hannan Meats. It started slowly

but over the years we have built up the business.

We do what we are good at and we work in partnership with the farmers and abattoirs who understand what we want, creating trusting partnerships with integrity so we get the best meat possible. And this has allowed us to grow – we work with 122 farmers in Northern Ireland who produce just for us.

What’s so special about your meat? With our Glenarm beef, we cherry-pick for quality, using the right breeds that are ‘properly’ reared and slaughtered and then the carcasses, joints and cuts are dry aged. Our hanging units provide not only the right temperature, but also the right humidity, light and air flow. We spent a long time researching the possibilities and developed our Himalayan salt chambers that we use for bacterial control – I’ve got ribs hanging there that are nearly 700 days from slaughter in great condition.

The average length of hanging is about 40 days.

It tenderises it. Like concentrating down a jus or stock – most people can tell the difference – and it’s the same with our meat. It makes a substantial difference and gives it a superb intensity.

Where can you buy the meat? Most of our meat goes to supply restaurants. Mark Hix was an enthusiastic, early-day supporter. We have two retail outlets; Fortnum & Mason, which sells our 80-day aged beef – which is as good as it can get – and we have a shop attached to our plant in Moira in Northern Ireland. hannanmeats.com

Mourne Seafood Cookery School in Kilkeel covers all the options as it teaches how to fillet, shell and cook fish as well as meat, sauces and vegetables. mourneseafoodcookeryschool.com

CASUAL SUPPER The Bull & Ram, Ballynahinch serves the best of local produce from County Down from a lovingly restored Grade I listed Edwardian butcher’s shop. bullandram.com

CHEF Danni Barry, at the helm of Eipic, is the second female chef in Ireland ever to have gained a Michelin star. Her food is described as progressive, flavoursome and honest. deaneseipic.com

FINE DINING Ox serves modern British food with a seasonal bias and boasts a fantastic Irish gin collection. oxbelfast.com

2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 217

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IRELAND

Comfort Food You can’t beat Darina Allen’s ultimate Irish stew

BALLYMALOE IRISH STEW

In her Ballymaloe Cookbook (1977), Myrtle Allen made Irish Stew like this: ‘Originally, we made it by putting alternate layers of onions, carrots, potatoes and meat in a pot. It was seasoned, covered with water and stewed gently for two hours. Very simple and enjoyable.’ Later on when my children were small, a good woman called Madge Dolan came to cook for us and brought us a new and better version, which is the basis of our current recipe.

Cut the chops in two or three pieces, if large, and trim off some of the excess fat. Place the trimmed-off fatty pieces in a heavy pan and cook over a gentle heat so that the fat runs out. Discard the solid bits that remain.

Peel the onions and scrape or thinly peel the carrots. Cut the carrots into large chunks or, if they are young, leave them whole. If the onions are large, cut them small; if small, they are best left whole.

Toss the meat in the hot fat in the pan until it is slightly brown. Transfer the meat into a casserole, then quickly toss the onions and carrots in the fat. Build the meat, carrots and onions up in layers in the casserole, carefully seasoning each layer with INGREDIENTS pepper and salt. Pour the stock into the pan, stir SERVES FOUR TO SIX to dissolve the caramelised » 1.35kg mutton or lamb deposits and pour into the chops (gigot or rack casserole. Peel the potatoes chops), not less than 2.5cm thick and lay them on top, » 5 medium or so they will steam while 12 baby onions the stew cooks. Season » 5 medium or 12 baby carrots the potatoes. Add a sprig » Salt and freshly of thyme and bring to the ground pepper boil on top of the stove. » 600ml stock (mutton or lamb stock Cover and transfer to if possible) or water a moderate oven (180˚C) » 8 potatoes, or allow to simmer on top or more if you like » sprig of thyme of the stove until the stew » 1 tbsp roux is cooked. This will take » 2 tbsp chopped about one to one and fresh parsley » 1 tbsp chopped a half hours, depending fresh chives on whether the stew is being made with lamb or mutton. The meat should be fork tender and almost falling off the bone.

When the stew is cooked, pour off the cooking liquid and skim off the fat. Reheat the liquid in another saucepan. Slightly thicken it with a little roux if you like. Check the seasoning, then add the chopped parsley and chives and pour it back over the stew.

Bring it back up to boiling point and serve direct from the pot or in a large pottery dish.

Darina Allen

Extracted from Irish Traditional Cooking by Darina Allen (£25, Kyle Books)

PHOTOS: KRISTEN PERERS; PETE CASSIDY

METHOD

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

ASHFORD CASTLE CONG, COUNTY MAYO

This majestic 800-year-old castle on the edge of Lough Corrib is more resplendent than ever following the completion of a $75m investment.

The one-time home of the Guinness family is now a prestigious Red Carnation Hotel and a Leading Hotel of the World. Located on a 350-acre estate, the castle features grand rooms, gorgeous antiques, oil paintings and, even, suits of armour. The 83 bedrooms combine traditional elegance, modern luxuries and meticulous attention to detail, and there are four restaurants serving exceptional food, from the sophisticated George V Dining Room to the atmospheric bistro, The Dungeon.

You can also enjoy private wine tastings or dinners in the 16th-century cellars. Daytime activities range from horse riding, fishing and shooting to golf, cycling and kayaking.

The peerless sporting estate is also home to Ireland’s first School of Falconry and has an award-winning spa.

NAME TO KNOW... Room divisions manager, Catherine Kenny, who has been working at the castle for over 20 years. She has many tales to share about life at the historic Guinness castle.

Doubles from €595 +353 (0)9495 46003; ashfordcastle.com

BALLYFIN BALLYFIN, COUNTY LAOIS

One of Ireland’s most important neo-classical houses, Ballyfin stands in its own 614-acre demesne, including lake, Victorian fernery, Edwardian rockery and walled garden, not to mention the tower with panoramic views.

A Downton-esque knot of staff awaits guests on the steps as they arrive, setting the tone for service that is old school, yet warm and friendly. The reception rooms are filled with superb antiques and paintings, and there’s a fabulous indoor pool, vitality pool, sauna and four treatment rooms. The 20 bedrooms are all gorgeous, in classic Irish country-house fashion; perhaps the loveliest is the Lady Caroline Coote, with its graceful Empire-style ceiling, but each one is appealing in its own distinctive way. As for the food, it effortlessly lives up to the surroundings.

Standards are very high at Ballyfin, and it’s the sort of place where one jarring note would spoil the show. Happily, it never does.

NAME TO KNOW... Glenn Brophy, a member of the butler team, who went to school at Ballyfin when it was a college and joined the day it opened as a hotel. Take his house-tour to learn how the property has changed over the last four decades.

Doubles from €590 +353 (0)5787 55866; ballyfin.com 220 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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IRELAND

BALLYNAHINCH CASTLE RECESS, COUNTY GALWAY

Set at the foot of the Twelve Bens, Ballynahinch Castle has a history as colourful as its riverside setting is stunning. Surrounded by 700 acres of rugged Connemara landscape, it’s a hotel with a big heart that captivates its many returning guests. It enchanted Seamus Heaney, who wrote his fine poem Ballynahinch Lake while staying here, and it captivated delightful General Manager Patrick O’Flaherty, who has been at the helm for 20 years and lives with his family on the estate. Don’t worry – no spa or heliport here, just superb salmon fishing (the atmospheric, wood-panelled pub is full of memorabilia and has a famous set of weighing scales), spacious bedrooms, good food, comfort and kindness.

In the elegantly redecorated restaurant, hung with superb 20th-century Irish art, you will kill for a table overlooking the Owenmore River.

Stewarding the kitchen is head chef Pete Durkan, under whose watch Ballynahinch has earned two AA rosettes. He ensures that dining is a highlight of your stay, one that you will only want to repeat.

NAME TO KNOW... Des, who has been at the hotel for over 30 years and is passionate about its history and literary and art connections.

Doubles from €1 8 5 +353 (0)95 31006; ballynahinchcastle.com

BALLYVOLANE HOUSE CASTLEYONS, COUNTY CORK

Imagine a grand, Italianate, Georgian, Irish country house, gorgeous but lived-in, run as a guesthouse by its old-school owners since the mid-1980s. Imagine their son growing up there, then leaving to work at the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong and later as general manager at Babington House. Imagine that he then returns, takes over the reins and runs the hotel his way.

You are imagining Ballyvolane. Filled with antiques, oozing atmosphere, it’s also – thanks to deft touches introduced by Justin Green – somewhere that’s cool and stylish too. It’s that hard to achieve thing: a place where one can unwind, but makes its guests feel glamorous and special. There are Persian rugs, antiques, quirky retro tables, roaring fires and a lavishly stocked honesty bar, with Justin’s own delicious gin, Bertha’s Revenge, taking pride of place.

The bedrooms are lovely and the food, eaten communally, unless you specify otherwise (you won’t), delicious. There’s glamping too, in the lovely gardens and grounds, and fishing.

NAME TO KNOW... Fly-casting instructor and former casting world champion, Glenda Powell, who can show you how to hook a salmon.

Doubles from €1 9 8 +353 (0)25 36349; ballyvolanehouse.ie 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 221

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

CASTLES AND THE CRAIC THE FIRST LUXURY RAIL EXPERIENCE OF ITS KIND IN IRELAND, BELMOND GRAND HIBERNIAN EXPLORES THE UNSPOILT LANDSCAPES, FASCINATING HISTORY AND STUNNING VISTAS OF THE EMERALD ISLE ON JOURNEYS OF TWO TO SIX-NIGHTS.

HOTELS | TRAINS | RIVER CRUISES | JOURNEYS | BELMOND.COM

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CLIFF HOUSE HOTEL ARDMORE, COUNTY WATERFORD

A good hotel in an unusual location is such a joy, not only because it offers spoiling things – including, in this case, a fabulous building, all glass, steel, slate and ‘living’ roofs. Cliff House Hotel drops to the sea in a series of levels, connected internally by a lift and a spiral staircase, with all rooms facing the water. It has fabulous bedrooms, an airy restaurant, jazzy bar and semicircular, lime green spa, and as for the Michelin-starred food, it’s courtesy of hugely talented 6’8” Dutchman Martijn Kajuiter. But it’s the clifftop waterside setting, the views and the charming local staff that really make it special. Ardmore is special too: Ireland’s earliest Christian settlement, founded by St Declán in 1416; nowadays a summertime seaside resort, its charms include a famous 12th-century round tower and a gently curving beach. Here, you are guaranteed to rest, explore, make friends and eat well in equal measure. A delightful spot.

NAME TO KNOW... Sommelier Thierry Sauvanot, who will help ensure that you find a wine that perfectly complements your meal.

Doubles from €200 +353 (0)2487 800; cliffhousehotel.ie 222 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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IRELAND

CURRAREVAGH HOUSE LOUGH CORRIB, COUNTY GALWAY

‘Things have always stayed the same here,’ says Henry Hodgson, fifth generation of his family to run their home as a guesthouse. ‘It would be rude to change them now.’ And that’s the joy of this Victorian country house. Beautifully set on Lough Corrib, with huge sash windows and original shutters, the house was built in 1840, though the family has lived here since the 17th century. Inside, you are transported to a calmer, more dignified time (Wifi is the only modern concession), where a gong heralds dinner and the breakfast coffee is served in original ’50s glass Cona receptacles, warmed by methylated spirit burners. Henry is charming and funny and totally at ease; his wife Lucy (they have three young daughters) is a marvellous cook and dinner is always delicious. You feel completely relaxed: what more could you possibly want?

Room keys? ‘We don’t have them,’ says Henry, ‘your things will be perfectly safe.’ And you know, without doubt, that he speaks the truth.

NAME TO KNOW... Anne Marie, who knows everyone and everything within a 50km radius.

Doubles from €1 6 0 +353 (0)9155 2312; currarevagh.com

DUNBRODY HOUSE ARTHURSTOWN, COUNTRY WEXFORD

The great and good of Ireland and beyond make their way to this delightful countryhouse hotel not only for its sublime location – a perfect spot from which to soak up rugged and wild natural beauty and tranquility – but also the warm Irish welcome of husband and wife owners Kevin and Catherine Dundon. They set the bar high for excellence – from the first-class seasonal, local food (well, Kevin is a celebrity TV chef, and you can take lessons too if you fancy it) – think rack of Wexford lamb with confit shoulder in the main Harvest Room restaurant or perhaps Kilmore Quay crab cocktail from the Champagne Seafood Bar – to each of the individual rooms and suites, all of which are luxurious with gorgeous fabrics and furniture. You might also fancy a steam and an Aromatherapy Associates massage in the spa – which amazingly also serves up delicious but healthy food and snacks. There’s also a guesthouse that sleeps six.

NAME TO KNOW... Gardener, Emmet, is only too happy to chat about Dunbrody’s kitchen garden, truffle trees, herbs and, of course, the wonderful collection of trees.

Doubles from €95 +353 (0)5138 9600; dunbrodyhouse.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 223

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

THE K CLUB STRAFFAN, COUNTY KILDARE

Whether you’re a golfer or an art lover, a family or a fly fisher, there’s something for everyone at this stunning country mansion hotel. It was built in 1832, modelled on a French château, in 550 tree-filled acres through which the River Liffey runs. In 1991 it opened as a luxury hotel, becoming Ireland’s first AA five red star property. There’s fly fishing with resident ghillies, horse riding and clay pigeon shooting among other country pursuits, but golf is the sport that dominates. It has two Arnold Palmer-designed courses and hosted the 2006 Ryder Cup and 2016 Irish Open. The sumptuous interior is furnished with antiques, chandeliers, swagged curtains and fine paintings, including an impressive Jack Yeats’ collection. Culture vultures will enjoy the regular art talks and tours and seeing its rare replica of the Book of Kells. Choose between four restaurants, including top-notch fine dining in the Byerley Turk, and relax in the fabulous pool and spa.

NAME TO KNOW... The award-winning sommelier, Lisa O’Doherty, who can assist in selecting a bottle to accompany dinner.

Doubles from €229 +353 (0)1601 7200; kclub.ie

THE MERRION DUBLIN

Dublin’s finest hotel is effortlessly gracious.

Everything feels right, from the location opposite the Government Buildings and the twinkly doormen, to the polished service and the elegant, classic bedrooms. Four tall, sober Georgian town houses – one of which was the birthplace of the first Duke of Wellington – have been opened up to create a series of expansive, welcoming reception rooms with stucco ceilings, peat fires, antique furniture and the owner’s outstanding collection of 19th and 20th-century Irish art, which you can learn about in a discreet audio tour. Just as impressive is the lovely formal garden, graced by Rowan Gillespie’s wonderful statue of James Joyce. As for the restaurant, it’s the province of two Michelin-starred Patrick Guilbaud, and there’s a spa with pillared infinity pool. No surprise that the charming general manager, Peter MacCann, has been in place since The Merrion opened, but quite a surprise to know that was less than 20 years ago. It feels timeless.

NAME TO KNOW... Head concierge since the hotel’s opening in 1997, Sean Lally, whose favourite thing about Dublin is the Dubliners with their great gift of the gab.

Doubles from €250 +353 (0)1603 0600; merrionhotel.com 224 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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IRELAND

THE RIVER LEE CORK

Where better to stay in Cork than this stunning modern hotel, as exciting and hip as the city itself? Part of The Doyle Collection and sister of The Westbury in Dublin (see below) and London’s The Kensington (see page 125), The Bloomsbury (see page 120) and The Marylebone (see page 129), it’s on a picturesque bend in the river just outside the centre, with compelling views. Cork is a popular destination for foodies and the hotel’s riverside all-day bistro, Terrace On The Weir, is a local favourite for everything from brunch to late-night cocktails. It’s a relaxed place, where you can enjoy good food and the view, with Donegal tweed blankets if it turns chilly and an extendable roof if it rains.

Inside, the river is on show through floor-toceiling windows in the grown-up Weir Rooms, also open all day for deliciously simple dishes.

Fabulously comfortable rooms, a pool, gym and friendly staff put the icing on the cake.

NAME TO KNOW... Business excellence manager Helena Haliniak, who has a wealth of local Cork knowledge. Ask her where to go for a classic Irish tipple.

Doubles from €160 +353 (0)2142 52700; doylecollection.com

THE WESTBURY DUBLIN

Standards are always high at The Doyle Collection. Never more so than at The Westbury.

Like its sisters, The River Lee (see above) and, three London hotels, The Kensington (see page 125), The Bloomsbury (see page 120) and The Marylebone (see page 129), it has a sleek design, intuitive staff and luxuriously comfortable rooms.

It has an unrivalled location overlooking Grafton Street, with its galaxy of consumer delights. After a long day, your room will seem like the answer to a prayer – enveloping and soothing in shades of taupe, with custom-woven Irish wool carpets, mohair-covered chairs and underfloor-heated marble bathrooms. For food, there’s Balfes, a contemporary cross between a New York eatery and Parisian brasserie, where the dishes match its edgy decor, or haute cuisine at the sophisticated, upmarket Wilde. Don’t miss afternoon tea at The Gallery, overlooking the throngs of Grafton Street, surrounded by one of the country’s finest private art collections – an Irish institution.

NAME TO KNOW... Guest relations manager Joseph Downing, who will have you captivated by his vast knowledge of art history and the beautiful works on display in the hotel.

Doubles from €320 +353 (0)1679 1122; doylecollection.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 225

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Private Houses For celebrations – big or small – or just a wonderfully spoiling holiday far from the madding crowd, taking over a private property can be the perfect answer

Sibton Park at Wilderness Reserve, Suffolk

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

BOCONNOC HOUSE LOSTWITHIEL, CORNWALL

This stunning Grade II* listed manor house can trace its history back to Norman times and the Pitt diamond, which was once set into the coronation crown of Louis XV – at least until Marie Antoinette got her mitts on it for a hat. The Fortescue family spent 12 years transforming the property to create a quiet retreat, with sweeping landscapes that include the bubbling River Lerryn. Accommodating up to 40 guests, you can treat the place as if it were you own, whether you want to host a chandelier-swinging dinner party or merely want to escape the real world to play cricket on the estate’s pitch, watch deer in the park or knock back sundowners by the lake. If your idea of a good time is more horizontal, they can arrange for a local masseuse or yoga teacher to tend to your needs. If you can tear yourself away from the estate, the nearby Cornish coast beckons for long walks on sandy beaches and Daphne du Maurier fans can’t miss a stroll across Bodmin Moor. But by twilight we guarantee you’ll be tucked up watching films in the library. This is the sort of place that lightens your spirit from the moment you pull up the drive. +44 (0)1208 872507; boconnoc.com

CARNELL HOUSE AYRSHIRE, SCOTLAND

Want to play at being a laird? This 2,000-acre estate will provide the right staging. Run by Michael Findlay and his partner Adrienne Eastwood (formerly at Skibo Castle), the sprawling historic house strikes that fine balance between stately and snug, decorated traditionally with antiques, oriental rugs and thick eiderdowns. With two dining rooms, drawn out dinners played out in front of roaring fires are par for the course. But what makes supper so special is that the rib of beef on your plate comes from their home-bred herd, served with horseradish plucked fresh from the walled garden. You’ll never be short of things to do here, from golf at internationally renowned courses to the estate’s established shoot, which is highly regarded for high-flying pheasants. That being said, you’d be equally content just to roam the spotless ten-acre garden, which has featured in numerous books and publications. It is managed

by Shuggy, who has been working there for over 50 years and will happily show you around. The main house sleeps up to 20 but the smaller and no less magnificent Garden House has four bedrooms and mimics the layout of the main house, which is just 250m away. +44 (0)1563 884236; carnellestates.com 228 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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PRIVATE HOUSES

DEANS COURT WIMBORNE, DORSET

Some things never change, and they are all the better for it. The Hanham family have lovingly cared for Deans Court since the Reformation, maintaining the surrounding land and the elegant redbrick Georgian house, as well as the Serpentinewalled kitchen garden – the first of its kind to be accredited by the Soil Association.

Guests are invited to experience a slice of the sustainable lifestyle promoted on the estate from the comfort of two recently renovated farmers’ cottages located within their own walled garden and adjoining orchard, or just outside the main entrance is the seven-bedroom gate house. Altogether, the accommodation can sleep up to 26 – handy if you’re planning a large get-together.

Those that have the fishing bug will be pleased to hear that, just a short walk from your temporary abode, Deans Court has a beat on the River Allen, home to wild brown trout. Best of all, produce from the garden – think eggs, honey, fruit and vegetables – can be pre-ordered for your arrival. Isn’t it nice when you have everything in one place, or estate for that matter? +44 (0)1202 849314; deanscourt.org

LETTEREWE ESTATE ROSS-SHIRE, SCOTLAND

Stretching over some 17,500 hectares of Wester Ross mountain and loch, Letterewe Estate has maintained its status as the ‘last great wilderness’ of Scotland by eluding modern developments like surfaced roads, thereby providing an undisturbed habitat for some of Europe’s rarest species of animals and plants.

You too can unwind here, alongside the golden eagles and red deer, undisturbed.

Unless, that is, you’d prefer to bring a great big party along with you. Letterewe Lodge, the largest of the estate’s self-catering properties, can house up to 17 guests so is ideal for a family get-together or stag party and is only accessible by boat across Loch Maree. Two smaller lodgings are also dotted around the sprawling estate. Ardlair Lodge looks over the majestic Torridon mountains, while Carnmore shares its name with the dramatic crag towering above it. Venturing to this remote area of the Highlands may not be the easiest of feats, but the journey is well worth it. You couldn’t be better based for fishing and stalking, or indeed a peaceful and quiet retreat into the wild. +44 (0)1445 760 207; letterewe-estate.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 229

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

MINGARY CASTLE KILCHOAN, ARDNAMURCHAN

Before its painstaking excavation and renovation, Mingary Castle was in danger of collapse, which shouldn’t come as a surprise given its 700-year history. Sitting proud above the Sound of Mull in its own rocky outcrop, the 13th-century hexagonal keep has not only endured the harsh elements of the Ardnamurchan peninsula, but has been at the centre of bitter feuds between kings and clans.

It was even the target of a three-day long siege by the ship San Juan de Sicilia of the Spanish Armada. Highly skilled craftsmen swept in like knights in shining armour to make good the crumbling stonework, as well as the long-lost roof and floors, and in 2016, the drawbridge was lowered for guests. Play king of the castle and hire all five bedrooms, each boasting a four-poster bed, making use of the dining room for creative, locally-sourced food cooked by in-house chefs and the drawing room for a glass of whisky, distilled on the estate. Even your canine companion is welcome. Picture it now, after a long day of walking over the rugged landscape, sitting in front of a wood burning stove with a well-deserved cup of tea and a good book. Heaven. +44 (0)1972 510715; mingarycastle.com

RUTLAND RETREATS OAKHAM, RUTLAND

It’s hard to imagine that the old villages of Nether Hambleton and Middle Hambleton lie somewhere at the bottom of the stunning Rutland Water. But, we’re thankful for their sacrifice, for it means we can escape to the beautiful, eco-build timber Rutland Retreats for a wonderful, peaceful holiday. Not to worry if you haven’t put your name to one yet, they are available for holiday lets, too. Available as two or three beds, all have tri-light windows opening onto private patios and smart finishes throughout, as well as WiFi, log burners and moss sedum roofs. On the doorstep there’s shooting, biking, boating and fishing trips, as well as riding, walking and stately homes to visit. Just down the road is Burghley House, a spectacular Elizabethan pile which is open to the public for the summer months. Keep an eye out too for red kite, deer, partridge and osprey which are regularly spotted in the area.

Or ask the concierge at the adjacent hotel, Barnsdale Lodge (see page 154), to arrange picnics, barbecues, dinner parties, you name it – or pick up food hampers or breakfast trays (if you’re in need of a long lie-in, they will deliver all of this straight to your door). +44 (0)1572 725971; rutlandretreats.co.uk 230 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 2017

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PRIVATE HOUSES

STANFORD HALL LUTTERWORTH, LEICESTERSHIRE

It’s been in the Cave family for years, since 1430 to be precise. The current Hall is an imposing Queen Anne-style manor, which once played host to Queen Mary in the South East bedroom.

Ideal for a big celebration, there are 15 tastefully themed bedrooms and a magnificently restored ballroom with eye-averting golden frescos, where up to 90 guests can dine under the watchful gaze of the Stuart kings of England. Butler and Gurkha stewards are optional. Ten bedrooms are located in the Stables Courtyard, complete with a self-catering kitchen, dining area, two large reception rooms and a dance floor. And then there are the gardens; with 900 acres to roam, a secluded walled rose garden and oaklined approach, guests can play at being lord of the manor. For those interested in botany, the grounds have been named a Site of Special Scientific Interest due to the species of lichen found. Go the whole hog and take all rooms.

Simon Jenkins once described Stanford as, ‘The perfect William and Mary house. The south front floats like a palace of romance across a distant meadow,’ and, when that palace is just a 50-minute train ride from Euston, we should be knocking on its door in droves. +44 (0)1788 860250; stanfordhall.co.uk

WILDERNESS RESERVE SIBTON, SUFFOLK

Set amid a splendid 5,000-acre estate, with the Suffolk coast and its crowd-drawing villages of Southwold and Aldeburgh mere moments away, is a stunning collection of properties to rent, from charming cottages – such as the heavenly thatched former forester’s one-bedroom home Hex – to the grand manor Sibton Park, which this year opens its orangery, a perfect spot for a wedding reception. In between, you have the eight-bed Walled Garden, which comes with an acre of private grounds, sauna and hot tub.

What comes as standard across all properties though is the immaculate quality combined with being immersed in an authentically rural location, which is being nurtured and cared for from the roots up. Hundreds of thousands of trees have been planted, new lakes dug and many acres being returned to parkland, woods and lakes, which in its turn, provides an environment ideal for attracting wildlife.

As well as exploring locally, there’s heaps to do on site, from rowing boats and Pashley bicycles to fishing, clays, wine tasting and activities with Steve Piotrowski, Wilderness Ranger. Who could ask for more? +44 (0)20 7484 5700; wildernessreserve.com 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK/GREAT-BRITISH-AND-IRISH-HOTELS | 231

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C&TH GREAT BRITISH & IRISH HOTELS

Index 10 Castle Street

A

The Abbey Hotel Albion House The Angel Hotel The Apartments by the Sloane Club The Arch Arisaig House Artist Residence Brighton Artist Residence London Artist Residence Oxfordshire Artist Residence Penzance Ashford Castle Askham Hall Augill Castle

B

Backwell House Bailiffscourt Ballyfin Ballynahinch Castle Ballyvolane House Bank House The Bar Convent Barnsdale Lodge Barnsley House The Barrow House Batty Langley’s The Beach at Bude The Bear Hotel The Beaumont Beaverbrook The Beckford Arms The Bell at Skenfrith The Bingham Blakeney Hotel The Bloomsbury Blue Hayes Boconnoc House Bodysgallen Hall Boskerris Bowood Hotel Spa and Golf Resort Brocco on the Park Brown’s Hotel

C

Calcot Manor The Capital Careys Manor Carnell House Cary Arms & Spa Castle House The Cat Inn The Cavendish Hotel Chapel House The Chester Grosvenor Chewton Glen The Cider House Claridge’s Cley Windmill Cliff House Hotel Cliveden House The Coach House at Middleton Lodge COMO The Halkin Congham Hall Cowley Manor Crab & Lobster Currarevagh House

D

60

Deans Court Dorset Square Hotel Driftwood Dunbrody House

E

60 96 196 117 117 208 96 118 97 41 220 178 178

Easby Hall East End Arms Ellenborough Park

F

The Feathered Nest The Felin Fach Griffin Five Bells Inn Forest Side Forss House Four Seasons Hotel Hampshire Four Seasons Hotel London at Ten Trinity Square

G

61 97 220 221 221 164 179 154 140 98 118 41 196 119 98 61 197 119 164 120 42 228 197 42 62 179 120

140 121 79 228 43 198 99 154 43 180 79 44 121 165 222 99 180 122 165 141 100 223

The Gainsborough Bath Spa The Gallivant The George George and Dragon Gilpin Hotel & Lake House Gliffaes The Goodwood Hotel The Goring Gravetye Manor The Grazing Goat The Great House The Great House at Sonning Great Northern Hotel The Grosvenor Arms Grove of Narberth The Gunton Arms The Gurnard’s Head

H

Halfway Bridge Hambleton Hall The Hambrough Hampton Manor Hannah’s Hart’s Hartwell House Hazlitt’s Hell Bay Hillside Hipping Hall The Horn of Plenty Hotel Endsleigh Hotel TerraVina Hotel Tresanton Howard’s House Howtown Hotel Hurley House Hotel

229 122 44 223

181 80 141

142 198 100 181 208 80 123

62 101 81 182 182 199 101 123 102 124 166 102 124 63 199 166 45

103 155 81 155 82 156 103 125 45 82 183 46 46 83 47 63 183 104

I The Inn at Whitewell Isle of Eriska Hotel

K

The K Club The Kensington Killiecrankie Hotel The Kingham Plough Kinloch Lodge Knightsbridge Hotel Knockinaam Lodge

184 209

224 125 209 142 210 126 210

L

The Lamb Inn Langar Hall Langford Fivehead The Langham The Laslett Letterewe Estate The Levin Lime Tree Hotel Lime Wood Little Barwick House The Little Gloster Llangoed Hall Lord Crewe Arms Lords of the Manor Lucknam Park Lympstone Manor

M

Maison Talbooth Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, London The Manor at Sway The Marylebone The Mash Inn The Master Builder’s The Merrion Middlethorpe Hall The Milk House The Mill at Gordleton Milsoms Kesgrave Hall Mingary Castle The Montagu Arms Moor Hall Morston Hall

N

The Nare No.15 Great Pulteney No.38 The Park No.131 Nonsuch House The Norfolk Mead Northcote The Northgate Number 38 Clifton Number Sixteen

O

Ockenden Manor Oddfellows Oddfellows on the Park The Old Coastguard The Olive Branch The Orange

P

Padstow Townhouse The Painswick Park House The Peacock at Rowsley The Peat Spade Inn Penally Abbey The Pheasant Inn The Pier The Pig The Pig – at Combe The Pig – in the Wall The Pig – near Bath The Pig – on The Beach Plas Bodegroes Plumber Manor Polurrian Bay Hotel The Portobello Hotel Prestonfield House

104 156 64 126 127 229 127 128 83 64 84 200 184 143 65 47

167 128 84 129 105 85 224 185 105 85 167 230 86 185 168

48 65 143 144 48 168 186 169 66 129

106 186 187 49 157 130

49 144 106 157 86 200 107 169 87 50 87 66 67 201 67 50 130 211

The Principal Edinburgh, Charlotte Square The Principal Edinburgh, George Street The Principal London The Principal Manchester The Principal York

R

The Rectory Hotel Red Lion Freehouse The River Lee The Rookery The Rose & Crown at Romaldkirk The Rose & Crown at Snettisham Rosewood London The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa The Royal The Royal Oak Rudding Park Rutland Retreats

S

Salthouse Harbour The Savoy The Scarlet The Seafood Restaurant Seaview The Sheep on Sheep Street The Sloane Club Sopwell House The Spread Eagle The Stafford London Stanford Hall Star Castle Hotel The Station House St Enodoc Stoke Park Summer Lodge The Swan Hotel & Spa The Swan, Wedmore The Swan Hotel, Wells

T

The Talbot Inn Talland Bay The Thomas Lord Thyme The Torridon Trewornan Manor Tuddenham Mill

V

Villa at Henrietta Park

W

The Waterside Inn The Wellington Arms The Westbury Whatley Manor Hotel & Spa The Wheatsheaf Inn The White Hart The White Horse Wilderness Reserve The Wild Rabbit Windlestraw The Winning Post Witchery by the Castle Woolley Grange Woolpack Inn

211 212 131 187 188

68 68 225 131 188 170 132 69 88 107 189 230

170 132 51 51 88 145 133 108 108 133 231 52 109 52 109 69 189 70 70

71 53 89 145 212 53 171

71

110 89 225 146 146 110 171 231 147 213 111 213 147 111

Y

Ynyshir Restaurant & Rooms 201

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SKIMMING STONE RINGS

STRATFORD-UPON-AVON 01789 267 072 WWW.PRAGNELL.CO.UK

BY APPOINTMENT AT: BERKELEY SQUARE, LONDON.

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