Manly’s Arc de Triomphe at Bistro Manly

words by: mark smith photography: novotel sydney manly pacific

It is always hard in any hotel space to completely transform a restaurant. The Novotel in Manly took on this challenge opening the new Bistro Manly recently, and they have triumphed.

TThe COVERED. crew made the journey to the famous Manly icon during yet another heatwave, and were happy with the immediate comfortable surroundings overlooking the beach.

The entrees are skewed towards seafood, which is always a great way to start a meal on a balmy afternoon.

As there were six of us, we were able to sample all of the choices, plates being passed around, in need of a ‘Lazy Susan’. Freshly shucked Sydney rock oysters are a bargain at $3.80 a pop, served with a tangy finger lime mignonette. The crispy school prawns with lemon myrtle salt and aioli were a hit with everyone, and probably the winner. The prawn bisque had a strong flavour, while the chilli prawns with linguine had the perfect balance of garlic and cherry tomatoes. The sourdough with beautifully salty prosciutto, macadamia puree and caramelised figs was a good way to round out the first course.

Onto the mains, and once again we ordered everything so we could get a complete picture of the journey the kitchen wanted to take us on.

Not being a duck fan, I was hesitant to try the confit leg with mushroom risotto, but if I was ever going to try duck, I’m glad this was it. Tender and light, and nowhere near as oily as I’d heard confit can be, it was complemented well by the risotto. I have however, always loved chicken, so my expectations were high, and I was not disappointed at all by the corn fed breast. Served with celeriac puree, portobello mushrooms, baby leek and porcini jus, I could have eaten another portion. I didn’t get to taste the salmon, mainly because one of my colleagues pretty much kept it all to herself. The 120 day dry aged sirloin with café de Paris butter and truffle salted handcut chips was taken apart like seagulls at the beach. Manners were thrown out the window, when it came to the goats cheese gnocchi, green peas, roast shallots, watercress cream and pangrattato, with only forks and a spoon left on the plate.

There is an excellent, and varied selection for dessert. Everything bar the cheese plate was asked for, and delivered.

The four remaining desserts were all exceptional. A classic crème brulee was certainly that. Light, fluffy and accompanied by sable and fresh berries. It was the ideal way to finish. The apple tarte tatin and flourless chocolate cake were devoured with an equal lack of decorum. My pick, however, was the vanilla pecan and strawberry bombe Alaska. I hadn’t had this dessert for years and was stoked to see it on the menu. I will admit that I kept this one virtually to myself, and enjoyed every last mouthful.

The wine we had was the 2018 AIX Rose from Provence, France ($65), and the 2017 Cockfighters Ghost Single Vineyard Pinot Gris from the Adelaide Hills, SA ($60), and complimented the food and the mood. Our illustrious ‘astrologer’ tried several whiskeys, including an Old Fashioned, and assures me they were top notch.

As for the staff, one can only be impressed. Most new ventures have kinks that need to be ironed out, but at Bistro Manly, they seem like seasoned veterans. Attentive without being overbearing, the team here deserve credit for their professionalism so early in this new restaurant’s life.

Overall, we had a great night.

Food, drinks and service, all delivered with aplomb. Premium, without the price tag, Bistro Manly looks to become the jewel in the Novotel Manly crown. •