Fly Tyer 2018 Winter Issue by Cowboy Publishing Group

BLUE DEVIL CUSTOM

VOLUME TWENTY-FOUR

GENERAL PRACTITIONER

ISSUE FOUR

DOC’S DAREDEVIL

GRAY HACKLE YELLOW

KRAKEN

QUILL-BODY CDC EMERGER

AL’S SPECIAL

CARNIVORE CRAYFISH

WINTER 2018

Table of

Contents

WINTER 2018 • VOLUME 24, NUMBER 4 • WWW.FLYTYER.COM

Features 20 Steelhead of the Old West 16 Guide-Tested Patterns

Columns 2 Editor’s Bench DAVID KLAUSMEYER

AL RITT

Take an angling adventure down the Deschutes River featuring wild horses, beautiful water, and great fishing. Tie these flies before you go!

Go for the Gold

26 Take the FFI Fly

Fly Tyer Joins Forces with Fly Fishers International

3 First Wraps RYAN SPARKS

The Monstrous Creations of Steve Yewchuck, finding a lost fishing map, and more.

Tying Challenge AL RITT

Fly Fishers International’s noncompetitive Fly Tying Skills Awards Program is a great way to get expert advice for improving your flies.

Practical Tips for Tying Better Trout Flies

34 Going Wild with Quills

14 Creative Tying JAY “FISHY” FULLUM Jumping Frog

16 Beginner’s

Masterclass

NICOLE MARCH

Stripped peacock quills make great bodies on smaller patterns, but they are tough to use. Learn the tricks for mastering this common ingredient.

Big Bass Love This Fly

42 The Carnivore Crayfish DREW CHICONE

One of fly fishing’s hottest pattern designers shares his latest imitation that is crushing Mr. Bucketmouth.

TIM FLAGLER

Tips for Tying Small Flies

62 Traveling Tier JERRY DARKES

Tying One On—Grayling, Michigan, Style

72 Reader Favorites DAVID KLAUSMEYER

Keep the Passion Alive

50 A Fly Tying Journey into the Unknown

BARRY CLARKE

Our author says that making new styles of patterns is a great way to keep fly tying fun and exciting.

Make Your Flies Come Alive

56 Fan Tail Perfection AL & GRETCHEN BEATTY

Hair-wing flies are fun to tie, but they lack lifelike action in the water. Our authors solve this problem using simple fly tying techniques.

WINTER 2018 | 1

EDITOR’S BENCH

by David Klausmeyer GROUP

PUBLISHER

John Lunn

FLY TYER JOINS FORCES WITH FLY FISHERS INTERNATIONAL

ly Tyer magazine is proud to announce our support of Fly Fishers International and the Fly Tying Group of the FFI. The FFI is taking a lead in fly tying education, and it has a lot of great opportunities for you to get involved, meet new friends, and learn to tie better flies. I recently chatted with Jerry Coviello, the chairperson of the Fly Tying Group. It’s impossible to hear Jerry talk and not become excited about the future of our craft. “I’m happy to say we have a lot going on, and more great things are coming up in the future,” Jerry said. “For example, if you’re looking for new patterns to tie, be sure to check out the FFI’s Fly of the Month. “The Fly of the Month includes patterns that cover all species of fish and types of fishing: trout, salt, and warm water. Each fly comes with complete step-by-step tying photography, and the instructions are downloadable so they can be printed and used in classes.” The FFI website contains one of the largest libraries of fly tying videos, Jerry said. “We have a couple hundred fly tying videos, and it’s growing all the time. And there are about sixty tying videos on our Facebook page. Everyone has access to this material.” Find a Fly Tyer is another new effort of the Fly Tying Group. This is a great place to find a tier to lead a class or give a demonstration. “The Find a Fly Tyer database is a list of individuals who want to teach or give fly tying demos. If someone would like to list their name on the database, they go to the web-

site, fill out and return an application, and we’ll add their name. Project Healing Waters, for example, uses this to find tiers in the areas where they hold retreats. Another fellow who wanted to start a fly fishing expo used the database to find tiers in his area.” While you’re at the FFI website, be sure to check out the quarterly newsletter called Tying Times. This resource contains news about the world of fly tying, articles about the history of tying, how to frame and photograph flies, and of course, more flies to tie. In addition to the FFI’s Fly Tying Skills Awards Program (to learn more, flip to page 26 and read Al Ritt’s article about this program), the Fly Tying Group is preparing to hold a wonderful fly tying contest featuring great prizes. Fly Tyer magazine is thrilled to be a sponsor of this contest. “We’re calling it the Fly Fishers International Fly Tying Challenge,” Jerry said. “We are at the final approval step, and then we’re off and running. There will be an ‘open’ group in which anyone may enter, and also a contest for tiers aged sixteen years and younger. We’ll do the judging next summer at the FFI Fly Fair in Bozeman, Montana. Stay tuned to Fly Tyer or visit our website to learn all the details. “We are trying to take a lead in fly tying education,” Jerry said. “It’s a terrific pastime, and we want more people to try it. It’s said all the time because it is true: It’s more rewarding to catch fish using the flies you tie.” To learn more about the FFI and the FFI Fly Tying Group, go to www. flyfishersinternational.org.

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FIRST WRAPS

Edited by David Klausmeyer

The MONSTROUS CREATIONS OF STEVE YEWCHUCK

Big fish eat big flies, right? These innovative patterns catch the largest fish in the river. by Ryan Sparks

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CONTINUED

ike many who dream about being on the water rather than at work, I sometimes visit the internet to scratch the itch. Videos of exotic expeditions, expert tips for every angling problem, and the latest fly patterns are all at our fingertips. Yet, in an age of content for content’s sake, you quickly realize this stuff is sometimes repetitive. Fly tying especially falls into this trap. The truth is that fly tying often becomes variations on the same thing: a basic principle with a new twist, a material substitution, or a slight variation in technique. There are, after all, only so many ways to attach materials to a hook—or so we think. Recently, while looking through the usual fly tying blogs, I came across a photograph of an immense rat fly unlike anything I’d ever seen. I took the bait, clicked the link, and found videos showing both how the fly looked and swam. A guy named Steve Yewchuck created this crazy pattern. I kept digging and found more of his monstrous creations: bats with articulated wings, sputtering foam ducklings, squids with undulating fins, lizards that kick and wobble, lifelike cicadas with perfect profiles, and forearm-length muskrats that swim like the real thing. These flies aren’t your standard fly shop fare, and they’re certainly not for the faint of heart. Using his gonzo style of tying, Steve Yewchuck creates patterns that push the boundaries of modern fly design.

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Design, Tie, Test, Repeat

Yewchuck has the mind of an engineer and the soul of an artist. Looking at his past, it’s easy to see where they come from. He grew up in Narrowsburg, New York, and as a kid, he fished for smallmouth bass and walleyes. The trout in the Delaware River, however, spurred his love for fly fishing and tying. He went to college for art and photography, but after graduation took a job as a high-end machinist. He now rebuilds airplanes for Reese Aircraft, a career that allows him to pursue fishing, guiding, and filling fly orders for his company, Envision Fly Works. Yewchuck applies the same intense precision required in airplane restoration to his tying. When I first encountered his work, I noticed a reoccurring checkerboard background in every photo. When I asked him about it, he said he uses the mat to constantly check the sizes and profiles of his flies. This attention to detail leads to repeatability. Each of Yewchuck’s flies is identical to the next, a mark of a true craftsman. This precision ensures every fly casts and swims the same. This assembly-line production method is the outcome of arduous design and testing. “My thought process is focused on function. I sketch flies before I tie them, and plan them out one hundred percent before I sit down at the vise. At the beginning, I mainly focus on how a fly moves; I think movement is a huge trigger point. I like a pattern to be realistic, but it has to be functional, and a big part of that is movement. I usually see how a fly will take shape in my mind, but it doesn’t always work. I once spent two months working on a sculpin pattern and eventually had to put it on hold. I’ll come back to it someday, but I can get most flies to where I want them fairly quickly. It’s hard to come up with new ideas in fly tying, but when you do, it’s really rewarding.” Part of Yewchuck’s ability to innovate lies in his vast knowledge of materials that extends beyond fly tying catalogs and fly shop shelves. “In both airplane restoration and fly tying, knowing your materials is critical. There are always new materials coming out in both fields, so it’s important to stay on top

of it. I have a vast knowledge of different materials. For example, the resins and glues I use in restoration cross over into my tying. I find materials in my everyday life and think how I can incorporate them into my flies.” Once Yewchuck has worked through a pattern on paper and in the vise, it’s time for testing. “I send my flies out to about a dozen anglers around the country who I know well. These guys are great anglers, and I get detailed notes on what they liked, what they didn’t, and stuff to improve. Not only are my flies tested by anglers who know their stuff, but that testing happens on different water types and in different environments. I think it makes my flies relevant throughout the country instead of specific to one body of water.”

A Mind for Mice

Steve Yewchuck’s Ring Leader Rat is what initially got my attention, but I soon dis-

KingKray Steve Yewchuck says: “I love to fish this pattern for big territorial browns. I wanted a crayfish pattern with a ton of movement that would get down quickly. This fly is intended to be worked along the bottom like a fleeing crayfish. I designed a jig shank for the abdomen that helps the fly sink quickly and gives it the correct motion when stripped. When the fly stops, the foam cephalothorax stands up in the water, acting like a crayfish in defense mode. The maribou claws add to this effect with a ton of movement. This pattern has been a deadly for me and a lot of guides.”

Abdomen: 30-millimeter-long custom jig shank. Tail: Marabou. Rib: Large Ultra Wire. Shell: Wapsi Thin Skin or Kiley’s Exo Skin. Body: EP Tarantula Brush. Hook: Allen SW004, size 2/0. Body: Two Flymen Fishing Company Double Barrel Popper Heads, sizes small and extra small, glued together and colored with permanent marker. Legs: Hareline Magnum Predator Legs. Antennae: Hairline Buggy Nymph Legs. Eyes: Melted 40-pound-test monofilament. Claws: Marabou plumes wrapped with gel-spun thread.

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FIRST WRAPS

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Articulated Emperor Mouse Steve Yewchuck says: “The Articulated Emperor Mouse and its smaller cousin, the Emperor Mouse, are what I consider my signature patterns. Over the last few years, they have proved to be among my best flies. I designed the head to push water and the body to stick to the surface film when struck by a big fish. It floats for a long time and is very durable. This articulated version took a while to dial in, but it’s now one of my top patterns. I have many requests for flies with stinger tails, and I found that coreless paracord is the perfect material for the job. It’s stiff enough to stop the stinger hook from fouling when casting, and it helps push the stinger away from the fish so it doesn’t get foul hooked.”

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Stinger hook: Partridge Nordic Tube Single, size 8. Tail: 2½-inch-long piece of coreless paracord with braided backing run through the center, and a small foam tail. Rear hook: Allen SW004, size 2/0. Underbody: 2-millimeter-thick foam. Body: Montana Fly Company 35-millimeter offset shank and Montana Fly Company Bunny Brush. Body shields: Three 2-millimeter-thick pieces of shaped foam. Head: Montana Fly Company 15-millimeter offset shank and a Montana Fly Company Bunny Brush. Ears and face: 2-millimeter-thick foam.

Ring Leader Rat Steve Yewchuck says: “I wanted to design a rodent fly that had a realistic profile and natural swimming action. The Ring Leader is meant to be fished for big predatory fish like pike, muskies, golden dorado, taimen, and Murray cod. One of the problems with large rodent flies is fouling. I addressed this by connecting all the sections with shanks to keep the fly aligned while casting. Note, the middle shank is tied and glued to the top of the hook with the rear loop extending just past the rear of the hook. I use this method with any articulated fly that has a center hook because it keeps the rear sections from twisting and fouling. The next concern was to keep the fly light enough so it would cast easily and absorb very little water. I did this with synthetic brushes. The great thing about synthetic brushes is they don’t absorb water, and they shed residual water with one false cast. The fly is colored with Copic markers.” 6 | W W W . F LY T Y E R . C O M

Rear shank: Montana Fly Company 80-millimeter Big Game Shank. Tail: Foam tip glued to a leather strip. Underbody: 2-millimeter-thick foam. Body: EP brush. Rear legs: 550 paracord. Hook: Ahrex PR350 Light Predator S/E, size 6/0. Midshank: Montana Fly Company 80-millimeter Big Game Shank. Underbody: 2-millimeter-thick foam. Body shields: 2-millimeter-thick foam. Body: EP brush. Front legs: 550 paracord. Head: Flymen Fishing Company Double Barrel Popper on a 40-millimeter shank, EP Brush, and foam ears. Whiskers: Round rubber legs. Eyes: Flymen Fishing Company Dragon Eyes.

covered it was only one fly in a series of rodent-inspired creations. “There isn’t a single mouse pattern that does everything. Sometimes you want a mouse that sits high in the water and pulls itself up quickly for skating. Other times you want a mouse that dives and sticks to the surface film so it doesn’t fly off when a fish slashes at it. I’ve got a rodent box that contains probably sixty different patterns I’m playing with. I weed out the bad ones and experiment with different materials and body shapes. In the process, I’ve come up with a handful of patterns that I use consistently.” I asked Yewchuck how he became so fascinated with tying and fishing rodents. “Believe it or not, my rodent fishing started during the day. I tied my first mouse six or seven years ago to fish on the West Branch of the Delaware River. It was something different the fish hadn’t seen before and it worked—right in the middle of the afternoon when everyone else was playing match-the-hatch and getting skunked!” “Mousing” soon became an obsession for Yewchuck, and like many dedicated mousers, he carried his obsession into the dark. “It really took off when I started fishing at night. I did so much night mousing that I started making a glow-in-the-dark silicone to put on the top of my flies. You charge it with a UV lamp, it’s durable, and it has a lifelike texture that fish hold on to.” These types of innovations draw many rodent-fishing aficionados to Yewchuck’s work. He’s constantly trying new things to improve his rodent patterns. Another example of Yewchuck’s creativity is his original approach to stinger tails. “I didn’t like the way most stinger tails were tied, because they foul-hook fish. I started playing around with paracord, and I found that if I stripped out the core, I could run backing through it to the hook. I tied a piece of foam on the stinger hook to keep it upright so when a fish takes the front hook, the stinger gets pushed out of the way and stays above the fish. It has excellent movement but is stiff enough to keep from foulhooking fish. Trying to fix a problem like that is a good way to be inventive.”

Echo Steve Yewchuck says: “Most bat patterns I’ve seen are tied with fixed wings, which makes them difficult to cast. I articulated the wings on the Echo so they fold back when casting. This makes the fly aerodynamic and easier to cast. The articulated wings and head also create movement in the water like a distressed bat that has crashed into the water. I placed an Exo Skin strap between the wings for stability and to prevent fouling.”

Hook: Ahrex PR350 Light Predator, size 6/0. Wing attachment: Montana Fly Company 35-millimeter shank. Body: Flymen Fishing Company Double Barrel Popper, flocked with Montana Fishing Company Flocking Kit, stacked and trimmed deer hair, and a Montana Fly Company Bunny Brush. Wings: Flymen Fishing Company 80-millimeter Big Game Shank with Kiley’s Exo Skin laminated to a preshaped foam wing frame. Head: Montana Fly Company 20-millimeter shank, Montana Fly Company Bunny Brush, preshaped foam ears, and pieces of shaped foam for the face and ears.

An Art Degree at Work

Yewchuck’s rodent patterns are so impres-

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sive, it’s easy to overlook how skilled he is in other areas. I was blown away by his unique take on a crayfish. There are thousands of crayfish patterns, but Yewchuck’s KingKray toes the line between form and function with a creative intensity not seen elsewhere. And Yewchuck not only ties a bat imitation, but designed a complete foam wing structure using Kiley’s Exo Skin as wing webbing. “The wings are articulated so they move in the water, and it makes casting easier because they lie back while you’re casting. That was a fly that came out exactly like I wanted it on the first try.” Yewchuck is a mad scientist with an eye for detail, and a tier who can be as selective as the fish he is trying to catch. In the last three years, he’s become interested in muskies and other apex predators, and his flies have grown in proportion. “I tie a huge articulated muskrat and throw it on a ten-weight rod. I’ve transitioned to synthetic materials because they don’t absorb as much water. With these materials, you can tie some beast-size flies that still cast great. They even cast with a stiff eight-weight, but they aren’t cheap to tie. I probably use twenty dollars in brushes plus hooks, shanks, and other materials. They take an hour or more to tie.” Yewchuck’s skills haven’t gone unnoticed. He guides in the Great Lakes

and Catskill regions, using his flies to put clients onto migratory brown trout and steelhead in New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, and Canada. He has designed several patterns for the likes of Flymen Fishing Company and the Montana Fly Company. Recently, he was featured in Tony Lolli’s book, The Art of the Fishing Fly. Yewchuck has been tying for 28 years, but it’s clear he’s only getting started. “I guess, in a way, I’m putting my art degree to use,” he says. “Fly tying isn’t a traditional artform, but it’s pretty badass.” Regardless of what he’s tying, the unifying theme at the heart of Yewchuck’s flies is the intersection of form and function. They look fantastic, have realistic action, and are durable enough to withstand the rigors of big predatory fish. There are tiers who design imitations using standard ingredients, and then there are tiers—like Yewchuck—who create unique and innovative flies using new materials in unconventional ways. These pattern designers keep pushing the boundaries of what’s possible. Ryan Sparks writes, fishes, hunts, cooks, and talks nonsense to his English pointer, Tippet. You can follow his writing and photography at www.flywatermedley.com. To see more of Steve Yewchuck’s incredible flies, go to his Instagram page: @envisionflyworks.

Kraken Steve Yewchuck says: “A few years back, I was invited to fish for stripers on Martha’s Vineyard during the squid run. I gathered as much information as I could to design a squid fly. The Kraken is the result of that process. It’s weighted in a unique way with paracord and split shot to give it realistic motion. The articulation and free-flowing tentacles add to this realism. One of my favorite materials to use is Kiley’s Exo Skin. It’s very flexible and can withstand a ton of punishment. I use it to imitate the characteristic fins of a squid.”

Head: Flymen Fishing Company Double Barrel Popper, airbrushed for color, with 8.8-millimeter Flymen Fishing Company Living Eyes. Hook: Gamakatsu Round Bend, size 2/0. Body: Spun deer hair and Hairline Chocklett’s Body Wrap. Arms: Ostrich herls and dry fly hackle. Tentacles: Hairline Micro Pulsator Strips. Mantle: Montana Fly Company 55-millimeter shank, EP Tarantula Brush, and Hairline Chocklett’s Body Tubing. Fins: Preshaped Kiley’s Exo Skin. Tail: EP Fibers over paracord filled with two size 3 shots. Melt and close the end of the paracord.

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In Search of Ed Shenk’s Map by Jerry Plaaten

I was on a quest. It began when I read Ed Shenk’s book, Fly Rod Trouting. I have been at this trout-fishing game for 55 years, and have gone through the various stages most of us experience: wanting to catch any trout, wanting to catch a lot of trout, wanting to catch big trout, and then only wild trout, and so on. Recently, I started reading the most important fly fishing books I had missed while growing up. Ed Shenk was one of the authors. In the very first chapter of his book, he describes the LeTort Spring Run that he knew while growing up in Pennsylvania. This was an eye-opener for me as he details the stream’s twists and turns, the holes, the names of the various areas, the physical surroundings, and where to find fish with a wealth of detail that I had never run across before. It was totally captivating. And I thought: someone has got to get Ed Shenk to make a map of the LeTort as only he knows it. That was the beginning of my quest.

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Opening Hagn’s LeTort Log mailbox was like stepping back in time. The weathered log book contained a vital clue to finding a copy of Ed Shenk’s map of the stream.

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Having a good map isn’t a random thought. When discovering a new area, one of the first things I do is look for a map. I have piles of them. They show me how to get to a stream’s access points. If it’s a topographical map, I can get a good idea of the gradient of the different areas of the stream, hiking trails, and forest service roads that might be useful for accessing the area. When I was younger, I fished all over New England and New York, and I logged an impressive number of days on the water. It was my one love and favorite pastime, and I was at it every chance I got. In 1996, I relocated to Florida, the only state in the Union with no freshwater trout. That was the end of my trout fishing, until 2007, when I found myself with the time and means to once again do what I love so much! I began taking fishing trips to northern Georgia and North Carolina. And then I began to make annual pilgrimages to the hallowed waters of Pennsylvania and the Catskills, where I had spent so much time in the past. On each trip, I spent a few days in the Cumberland Valley, exploring the spring creeks and streams. I had read Vince Marinaro’s books and experimented with his fly patterns, and now I was finally on the waters he and Charlie Fox had devoted so much time to analyzing and preserving. For some reason, I always fished up near Bonney Brook and the quarries. I was thrilled to catch the ultra-wild, 8- to 10-inch brown trout—the best was 13 inches long—using my sulfur imitations.

A Knock on the Door

Floating in the back of my mind, I knew there was a place on the LeTort called Marinaro’s Meadow. Early on, maybe around 2010, I made a stab at finding it. I stopped at an old farmhouse and knocked on the door. An old guy in his underwear answered my knock, and I was a little flustered. I tried explaining what I was looking for, but the fellow wasn’t much help. So, I put finding Marinaro’s Meadow on the back burner until 2014. That’s when I got serious with my quest. Using good maps and better directions, I located the general vicinity of

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Marinaro’s Meadow on Spring Garden Street, in Carlisle. It was wonderful: a nice parking area and a big sign saying, Private Property, Cumberland Valley Trout Unlimited, Members and Visiting Fly Fishermen Use Only! There were beautiful commemorative bronze plaques dedicated to anglers Vince Marinaro and Charlie Fox. And there was a short path leading through the substantial vegetation to the stream. In a way, however, it was anticlimactic. With shoulder-high grass and vegetation, brush, and trees to my right, and something of a path cutting into this jungle to the left, I now understood why this place has a reputation for being so difficult to fish! And where was this famed meadow? That was the end of my curiosity.

The Quest Continued and the Plot Thickened

By the first of this year, I decided that I must have missed something on my prior visit to the LeTort. Armed with better details and a map from the excellent entry on the LeTort in the book Keystone Fly Fishing, I took another crack at finding the hidden meadow. On this trip, I went to the end of the path and looked around, especially to the right in the direction of the trees and brush. To my surprise, I found a somewhat hidden path, and I took it. It quickly opened into a meadow offering extensive access to some of the best-looking water on the LeTort. I was beside myself with delight, and I wandered downstream. Here is where the plot thickens: I was not only in the meadow, but I also found a nice wooden bench and Hagn’s LeTort Log mailbox! I saw this oddity four years earlier, but from the other side of the stream. Now it was right in front of me. I opened the mailbox and discovered its hidden contents—a very old and weathered notebook. Curiosity killing me, I took it out and carefully flipped through the pages. One entry made my heart pound. It read, “Ed Shenk’s map of LeTort Spring Run (revised 3-7-03) is now in the box—feel free to take one courtesy of Ed.” Fred Bolhs, president of the Cumberland Valley Chapter of Trout Unlimited, had

made the entry, and it gave his contact information. My plan instantly changed from getting Ed Shenk to re-create his map to finding one that already existed. I concluded my trip and returned home, and the idea for finding his lost map was placed on the back burner. I eventually decided to resume my quest for Ed Shenk’s map of the LeTort; it was a bit of historical angling memorabilia worth saving. I still had that phone number, copied from Mr. Bohls’s entry in the log, so that seemed a good place to start. I reached out to Mr. Bohls several times but received no response. I also contacted the Cumberland Valley Chapter of Trout Unlimited to see what they knew about the map, and began exchanging emails with its current president, John Leonard. What a great guy! At first, he said he knew nothing about the map, but seeing that I wasn’t going to give up and would probably become a nuisance, he contacted

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fellow fly fishers in the area. Today, attached to an email, I received a copy of Ed Shenk’s hand-drawn map of the LeTort Spring Run. What a thrill! It connects a lot of dots for me about the LeTort’s different areas, and also shows the location of the spring hole I stepped into a few years back! John Leonard had contacted Mike Klimkos, a local historian and author, about the map. Mike had a copy of the map in his files. Mike emailed a copy to John, and John forwarded it to me. I just can’t thank these guys enough for all their help. Now, hopefully, this artifact will be preserved for all anglers to enjoy. We thank Jerry Plaaten, who lives in Florida, for this terrific story.

See Ed Shenk’s Map

Ed’s hand-drawn map of the LeTort Spring Run is a unique part of fly fishing history. To see his map, go to our website, www.flytyer.com.

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New ON THE BENCH

Stay Organized with TyWheel

Proper organization of your fly tying tools and materials is one of the first steps to getting more out of your time at the vise. The TyWheel provides a magnetic work surface that installs directly on your vise, instantly putting tools, hooks, and materials conveniently in front of you. In addition, you can customize your TyWheel workstation using its modular attachments. There are several TyWheel kits ranging in price from $99.99 to $299.99. Explore the entire line of TyWheel products at www.tywheel.com.

Loon Ergo Fly Tying Tools

Flip through the articles in this magazine, and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll see that many of our authors mention Loon products. In addition to finishes, Loon also offers a line of great fly tying tools. The Ergo Comb ($12.95) and Ergo Hackle Pliers ($9.95) are two examples of Loonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s well-thoughtout and well-engineered fly tying tools. To see the full line of Loon Ergo tools, go to www.loonoutdoors.com.

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Renzetti Makes Rod-Building Equipment, Too

Renzetti is renowned for its fine fly tying vises, but did you know it also makes rod-making equipment? And just like its vises, the Renzetti Craftsman Rod Lathe is among the best you can buy. The Renzetti Craftsman Rod Lathe is engineered to meet the needs of all creative rod builders. It can power-wrap single and multiple threads with precise tension control. The Renzetti Rod Lathe is made of aluminum to ensure quality and a lifetime of use. With an MSRP of $799.95, the Renzetti Craftsman Rod Lathe is aimed at serious hobbyists and small commercial rod builders. To learn more about the Renzetti Craftsman Rod Lathe, go to www.renzetti.com.

From the state of the Ark

...to the state of the Art

The bobbin has finally evolved − iBobbin T: 613 - 822 - 1930

Uni-Products Adds More Axxel Colors

Uni-Products, a world leader in spooled fly tying materials, has added two new colors to its popular line of Axxel Flash. With these new colors—orange and salmon—you now have 22 colors of Axxel for creating attractive bodies, wings, and tails on your best fish-catching flies. A spool of Axxel costs about two bucks at your local fly shop. W I N T E R 2 0 1 8 | 13

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E V I T A E CRying T

JUMPING FROG

by J ay

Big bass eat frogs, and they will devour the author’s newest frog imitation.

’ve created things that look like frogs since I was a kid. Recently, I returned to this challenge, attempting to make legs that kick when retrieving the fly. The legs had to have action, but they also had to be easy to construct. As usual, the first set of legs didn’t make the frog come alive when retrieved in short strips, and they were far too complicated and time consuming to make. After a dozen prototypes and many hours on the pond, I finally came up with the Jumping Frog. At first, I glued together layers of materials for the legs, but they were too stiff and lifeless. To eliminate the glue, I stuck everything together using 2-millimeter-thick, adhesive-backed foam. A layer of thin leather, and the sticky foam evolved into a set of good-looking legs, but what about the action? On the first few casts, the new creation didn’t show much movement on the water, but as soon as the leather softened, the legs kicked like the real thing. The only remaining test was whether the frog would hold up after catching a few bass. I wasn’t sure that the leather would remain bonded to the foam, but it not only held up after catching a dozen bass, it also survived an attack from a rather large pickerel. Making the legs takes a while, but the steps are not difficult. The body requires a foam fishing float, a little superglue, epoxy, paint, and a pair of doll eyes. This frog is worth the effort; the bass and other fishy critters love it. The Jumping Frog isn’t the easiest thing to cast; a large one requires a very heavy outfit. If you create a smaller frog, however, you can easily use lighter tackle, and the fish will love it. A frog with a 1 1/4-inch-long body and 3 1/2-inch-long legs is big enough to temp even larger fish using a 6-weight outfit. Jay “Fishy” Fullum is a master at creating unusual fish-catching flies using common household ingredients. For more information about his speaking appearances, classes, innovative patterns, books, and more, go to www.fishyfullum.com. Fishy lives in New York State. 14 | W W W . F L Y T Y E R . C O M

TYING THE JUMPING FROG

MATERIALS LIST

1 2

Make a paper template of a frog leg. Trace the outline twice on the leather with a ballpoint pen. Cut out a pair of legs using strong hobby scissors. Cut a length of the adhesive-backed foam wide enough to accommodate one of the leather legs. Remove the paper backing from the foam. Place the foam on your tying bench with the sticky side facing up. Position the leather leg on the foam, and press the two together. (Note that a small tab of leather extends beyond the leading edge of the foam. This will become important later!) Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t stretch the leather when placing it on the foam, or the finished leg will curl. Cut the excess foam using scissors. Create a second leg.

3 4 5

Fold the leg together at the knee joint. Make several wraps of tying thread around the joint, tie off, and snip the thread. Apply a drop of superglue to the thread.

Fold the ankle joint. Wrap the joint with thread, tie off and snip, and apply a drop of superglue. The finished leg should form a Z shape. Make the joints in the second leg. Cut a foam fishing float in half crossways.

HOOK: A 2X-long hook large enough to extend about half an inch beyond the rear of the foam body. THREAD: Green 3/0 (210 denier). LEGS: Green or tan 2-millimeter-thick adhesive-backed foam and leather chamois. BODY: 3-inch-long foam fishing float. EYES: Large doll eyes. MORE STUFF: Superglue, epoxy, and fingernail polish in your choice of colors.

6 7

Cut one of the pieces in half lengthways. Remove a little of the front to shorten the body to fit the hook.

Wrap the hook shank with thread. Apply superglue in the grove in the foam, and press the hook into the groove and glue. Allow the superglue to dry. Next, fill the grove and coat the bottom of the body with epoxy.

8 9 10

Coat the face and top of the body with epoxy. When the epoxy starts setting, press eyes into the thick glue.

Paint the body with your choice of fingernail polish. Have fun and be creative!

Tie on the leather tabs extending from the legs; fold the leather back along the hook when positioning the legs. After the legs are tied in place, remove the excess leather and make several wraps around the area. Place a couple of drops of superglue between the legs.

W I N T E R 2 0 1 8 | 15

Sometimes the trout rise to tiny dry flies like this size 22 Parachute Adams.

TIPS FOR TYING SMALL FLIES With the right techniques, you will make flies that match the tinest insects on the water.

aking small flies—say size 20 and smaller—is intimidating for tiers of almost all skill levels. There are some tips and tricks, however, that make doing this easier. First, you can’t tie what you cannot see, and the better you can see, the better you will tie. Unless you have extraordinary eyesight, you might need some type of magnification in order to tie nice small flies. I prefer wearing glasses—readers or cheaters, whatever you prefer calling them—as opposed to peering through a big lens suspended above the fly. Purchasing a selection of inexpensive reading glasses in a range of magnifications is the easiest way to determine which pair will work best for you; this experiment will cost no more than a few dollars, and it is money well spent. Place

a size 22 or 20 hook in your vise, and try each pair of glasses until you find the one that puts the hook in the sharpest focus and places you a comfortable working distance from the vise. Make a note of the magnification, and head to the local drugstore to get a better quality pair of glasses in the same power. You might end up using your new glasses for all your tying. Having plenty of good-quality light is also essential for tying flies, especially small patterns. Modern LED, daylight-balanced lamps are usually bright, throw off almost no heat, are somewhat diffuse so they don’t cast harsh shadows, and aren’t too expensive. Purchasing a good lamp for your tying bench is a terrific investment.

More Simple Tips

Another tip—unfortunately one that usually falls on deaf ears—is to scrub

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIM FLAGLER

16 | W W W . F L Y T Y E R . C O M

your hands with soap, warm water, and maybe even a nail brush before tying. This practice definitely helps with fingertip sensitivity, and it keeps dirt and natural oils from transferring to delicate tying materials. Try it once, and I think you’ll agree. Using high-quality, thin-diameter thread, such as Veevus 16/0, makes all the difference when tying small flies. It and similar fine threads are strong, grip well, and because they are so thin, they don’t build up bulk on the hook; avoiding excess bulk is especially critical when making small flies. And in terms of tying technique, don’t use too many thread wraps. You’ll be surprised how few wraps are actually needed to firmly secure materials to a hook. Get accustomed to using minuscule amounts of material, particularly dubbing. If the tying instructions say to just “color”

HOW TO TIE A

MINIATURE PARACHUTE ADAMS the thread one hook-eye width behind the eye. Make a 1 Start few wraps and snip the thread tag. 2Tie on a few coq de Leon fibers for the tail. your choice of parachute post material. Clip the excess 3 Tieat anonangle. 4 Apply a drop of light-cured adhesive to the base of the wing post.

(Continued next page)

MINIATURE PARACHUTE ADAMS

Hook: Regular dry fly hook, sizes 22 to 18. Thread: Black Veevus 16/0 or another brand of extra-fine thread. Tail: Coq de Leon or other mottled hackle fibers. Body: Gray beaver dubbing. Wing post: Polypropylene yarn or your favorite wing post material. Hackles: Brown and ginger.

the thread with dubbing, they mean it! Sometimes you can secure materials to the hook using a small drop of superglue or light-cured resin instead of thread wraps. In the video that accompanies this article, titled Tying a Parachute Adams in Size 22, I post up the parachute wing using lightcured resin. Also, rather than tying off the parachute hackle, I tie it in place with a drop of resin. This technique makes tying easier, and making fewer thread wraps offsets any additional weight from the adhesive. Use the tips in the accompanying tying instructions and the companion video to make a flotilla of diminutive dry flies.

Tim Flagler is a master angler and fly tying instructor. He offers some of the very best fly tying instructional videos you will ever see at his website, www.practicalpatterns.com. Tim lives in New Jersey. W I N T E R 2 0 1 8 | 17

BEGINNERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S MASTERCLASS

CONTINUED

HOW TO TIE A

MINIATURE PARACHUTE ADAMS

the wing post upright and twist it clockwise. Turn on the 5 Pull blue light to cure the adhesive. a tiny pinch of beaver dubbing on the thread and wrap 6wingSpin a slender body. The thread is now hanging in front of the post. a grizzly and a brown hackle to match the size of the 7eachSelect hook you are using. Strip the excess fibers from the base of feather. Remove a couple extra fibers from the sides that will face against the wing post.

8 a very tiny pinch of dubbing on the thread and wrap a short 9 Spin head between the base of the wing post and the hook eye. a firm four- or five-turn whip finish and cut the 10 Make thread. 11 Wrap both hackles clockwise twice around the wing post. a small drop of light-activated resin where the hack12 Apply le stems contact the wing post. the resin with the light. This secures the hackles to 13 Cure the fly without using thread wraps. 14 Carefully clip the excess hackle tips. 15 Trim the parachute post to length. sure the hook eye is clear so you can easily tie your 16 Make tiny Parachute Adams to a tippet.

Tie both hackles to the hook shank in front of the wing post with the shiny sides facing up.

WATCH THE VIDEO Each installment of Beginnerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Masterclass features an accompanying video showing how to make the fly. To see how to tie a Parachute Adams on a size 22 hook, go to www.flytyer.com. Read the article, watch the video, tie the fly, and catch more fish!

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W I N T E R 2 0 1 8 | 19

Steelh of the Old PHOTOGRAPHY BY AL RITT

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head West Al Ritt takes us on an adventure down the Deschutes River featuring wild horses, beautiful water, and great fishing!

AS I WATCHED THE CREST OF THE HIGH BANK, I saw motion warning me of their approach. I reached into the bottom of the boat for my camera. Not suspecting my presence, they came confidently down the embankment to the edge of the Lower Deschutes River. I did my best to line up my shot from the moving drift boat, mentally crossed my fingers, and snapped several photos. I’m no historian, but I am fascinated by stories about the Old West. We were floating the eastern boundary of the reservation for Oregon’s Confederated Tribes of Warm Springs, and these were wild horses. I felt completely justified classifying this band of beautiful animals as wild Indian ponies.

The Lay of the Land

Although the Lower Deschutes River holds many species of terrific game fish, we were targeting the steelhead. First, let me give you the lay of the land; fishing the world-famous Deschutes isn’t as easy as just walking up to the water, stringing your rod, and casting. You have to work a bit to get to the fish, but it’s well worth the effort. The Warm Springs Reservation, populated by the Warm Springs and Wasco peoples, was established in 1855. The first Paiutes arrived from the Yakima Reservation and Fort Vancouver in 1879. In 1937, the three tribes formed the Confederated Tribes of the Warm Springs. Today, their beautiful land, from the town of Maupin upstream to Pelton Dam, borders about 20 miles of the west bank of the Deschutes River. The only vehicle access to the river on the west bank, from Pelton Dam downstream to the end of the tribal lands, requires a permit issued by the Confederated Tribes. The east bank of the river is accessed at the Warm Springs Boat Ramp State Park just below Pelton Dam. A small campground is accessible by road a little less than two miles downstream from the ramp. Below the Mecca Flat campground, access is limited to walking. The difficult access, and the fact that the Deschutes River is far too large to wade across (and even if you could cross the river, you would not be able to utilize the bank on the reservation side), means fishing consists mostly of float trips, but even these excursions are subject to restrictions. First, permits to float this stretch of the Deschutes are limited and carefully controlled. Second, from the Warm Springs Boat Launch, there is no take-out point for roughly 30 miles until you reach Devil’s Canyon Campground; if you’re going to spend any appreciable time fishing, plan three days floating and two nights camping on the river. And finally, be prepared to run Class II, Class II+, Class III, and even Class III+ rapids, some of which can be very technical and treacherous; unless you’re experienced at shooting whitewater rapids, it is better to let a professional guide take the tiller.

W I N T E R 2 0 1 8 | 21

AL’S (AL KNUDSON) SPECIAL Hook: Partridge M2, sizes 8 to 2. Thread: Black 8/0 (70 denier). Tag: Medium oval silver tinsel. Tail: Red saddle hackle fibers. Body: Yellow wool yarn. Rib: Medium oval silver tinsel. Hackle: Red saddle hackle. Wing: Bleached bear hair. Cheeks: Jungle cock or a substitute.

Although I expect to see other fishermen on the water when I make this trip, there is plenty of elbow room, enough productive runs for everyone, and sufficient fish populations to support the angling pressure. Although the Deschutes no longer offers the same desolation the first European immigrants found when they arrived early in the 19th century, you’ll enjoy enough solitude to give you the feeling that you are in the Old West.

Lots of Fish ARF MARA-TRUDER Tube: Black Pro Sportfisher. Thread: Black 8/0 (70 denier). Rear prop: Purple Pro Sportfisher Pro Soft Sonic Disc. Rear hackle: Purple blood marabou and black saddle hackle. Body: Pearl flat Diamond Braid. Front prop: Purple Pro Sportfisher Pro Soft Sonic Disc. Front hackle: Purple blood marabou and black saddle hackle. Flash: Pink Krinkle Mirror Flash. Collar: Purple mallard flank.

ARF MUPPET Tube: Pink Pro Sportfisher. Thread: Purple 8/0 (70 denier). Rear prop: Deep purple saddle hackle. Rear hackle: Purple-barred fuchsia blood marabou. Body: Hot pink UV Polar Chenille. Rib: Deep purple saddle hackle. Front prop: Deep purple saddle hackle. Front hackle: Purple-barred fuchsia blood marabou. Flash: Purple Krinkle Mirror Flash. Topping: Hot pink Amherst pheasant. Head: Purple Senyo’s Laser Dub.

ARF PRINCESS DI Hook: Partridge M2, sizes 6 to 1. Thread: Black 8/0 (70 denier). Tail: Yellow arctic fox. Butt: White ostrich herl. Rib: Small oval gold tinsel. Body: Yellow sparkle yarn and purple peacock herl. Body hackle: Purple grizzly saddle hackle. Wing: Yellow bear hair. Topping: Purple Amherst pheasant tail fibers. Collar: Purple mallard, teal, or gadwall flank.

22 | W W W . F L Y T Y E R . C O M

While the Deschutes River holds a large population of native redband rainbow trout, salmon, and even brown and bull trout, the primary draw for me, as well as many other anglers, is the steelhead. I’m very fortunate that a good friend, Rob Crandall, owns Water Time Outfitters. Rob runs fishing trips year-round for trout, steelhead, and shad on the Clackamas, Willamette, Wilson, Trask, North Fork Nehalem, and other coastal rivers. But, if you want a unique experience floating, fishing, and camping on an historic western American river, look to his multiday options on the Deschutes. Water Time Outfitters has possessed a permit to float and guide on the lower 100 miles of the Deschutes for more than 20 years. These permits are tightly controlled, which is part of why there is limited angling pressure and little competition when fishing this river. Rob has many returning clients who have fished with him since his first year of operation, a testament to the quality of his services. Although you can certainly create your own do-it-yourself fishing trip on the Deschutes (see the sidebars for more information), I am privileged that Rob has offered me an annual window to accompany a hosted group of anglers each October. The wide diversity of fish species in the Lower Deschutes creates exciting angling opportunities throughout the year. Redband rainbow trout are always available. If you target these robust, hard-fighting fish, carry a selection of salmonfly, golden stone, and October caddis imitations. The Deschutes also has midges, blue-winged olives, March browns, little yellow stoneflies, pale morning duns, green drakes, and a multitude of caddisflies. Even if your goal is catching steelhead, you’ll want to have some trout flies if you encounter a hatch and rising fish. Two runs of chinook salmon utilize the Lower Deschutes. A spring run of salmon shows up at the mouth of the river around April or May. (The Deschutes flows into the Columbia River.) These fish progress quickly to

Sherars Falls in mid-May, and they are at the fish trap below Pelton Dam by June. The most productive stretch for fishing is around Sherars Falls, where the salmon are concentrated while attempting to navigate the white water. The second run of salmon, the fall chinooks, may arrive at Sherars Falls as early as the beginning of July. The best fishing, however, usually occurs from August through September. This run of fish spawns in the Deschutes from the mouth of the river to Pelton Dam. Prior to completion of the Pelton Round Butte Hydroelectric Project, the Deschutes hosted runs of sockeye salmon. Beginning in 2009, sockeye smolts from Lake Billy Chinook were transported downstream of the hydro project so they could migrate to the Pacific Ocean. The first sockeyes returned to the river in 2011, and returning adults are now captured below the hydro project and transported to Lake Billy Chinook to complete their upriver migration. Adult sockeyes begin arriving at Pelton in mid-July, and the run peaks in August. Steelhead are in the river virtually all year. The Lower Deschutes traverses about 100 miles, so once they are in the river, the fish migrate more slowly and hold longer than they do in smaller, shorter river systems. The first of the new runs appear in the mouth of the Deschutes in June or early July, and there are typically good numbers of fish in the first 23 miles of the river—up to Mack Canyon—by late July. By August, there are fishable numbers of steelhead throughout the stretch from Mack Canyon to Buckhollow. In mid-August, steelhead appear in the area around Maupin, but the peak number of fish navigating this stretch usually arrive in September. The big runs of steelhead traverse the river from Maupin to the Warm Springs access beginning in September and continue throughout the fall. The final 10 miles of the Lower Deschutes, from Warm Springs to Trout Creek, fish well from October through December. Deschutes steelhead are a mix of wild and hatchery fish. Many wild steelhead spawn in the main river, and after spawning they return to the Columbia River and eventually back to the ocean. These returning steelhead extend the amount of time they are in the river and provide anglers a second chance at the fish on their downstream migration.

The Author’s Favorite Time to Fish

I prefer floating the Lower Deschutes in early October. The water has cooled a bit, and the

ARF TURBO GURGLER Tube: Orange Pro Sportfisher. Thread: Fluorescent fire orange 8/0 (70 denier). Tail: Orange Faux Fox. Skirt: Hot orange Baitfish Emulator Flash. Rubber legs: Bonefish pink Loco Legs. Shellback: White foam. Body: Orange polypropylene yarn. Rib: Hot pink saddle hackle, trimmed flat on the bottom. Hackle: Hot orange saddle hackle, trimmed flat on the bottom. Cup: Orange Pro Sportfisher Pro Soft Sonic Disc, trimmed flat on the bottom.

BIRD’S ORANGE STEELHEADER Hook: Partridge M2, sizes 8 to 2. Thread: Black 8/0 (70 denier.) Tail: Black saddle hackle. Body: Black and orange chenille woven with the black on top. Hackle: Black saddle hackle. Wing: Black bear hair.

COAL CAR Hook: Partridge M2, sizes 8 to 2. Thread: Black 8/0 (70 denier). Tag: Medium oval gold tinsel. Tail: Black saddle hackle. Body: Orange, red, and black wool. Rib: Large flat gold tinsel. Hackle: Black saddle hackle. Wing: Black bear hair.

CRANDALL’S DEVILS CANDY Shank: Flymen Fishing Company 35millimeter-long articulated shank. Hook: Partridge Attitude Extra, size 4. Thread: Black 8/0 (70 denier.) Eyes: 1/8-inch or 3/16-inch weighted eyes. Tail: Black marabou. Tail flash: Opal Mirage tinsel, fuchsia Flashabou, and deep blue LiteBright tied on top of the black marabou. Body: Black Polar Chenille. Thorax: Black seal dubbing substitute and ruby red Lite-Brite. Collar: Red guinea fowl. Wing: Black marabou tips. Topping: Purple Lite-Brite, red LiteBrite, blue Lite-Brite, and opal Mirage. Beard: Black marabou. Second wing: Black marabou over the topping. W I N T E R 2 0 1 8 | 23

GENERAL PRACTITIONER Hook: Partridge M2, sizes 4 to 1/0. Thread: Orange 8/0 (70 denier). Tail: Orange bear topped with hot orange Krinkle Mirror Flash. Pinchers: Golden pheasant tippet. Rear body: Coarse orange dubbing. Rear rib: Medium oval gold tinsel. Rear hackle: Orange Whiting Farms Spey Hackle spiral-wrapped over the body. Rear carapace: Golden pheasant flank. Front body: Coarse orange dubbing. Front rib: Medium oval gold tinsel. Front hackle: Orange Whiting Farms Spey Hackle spiral-wrapped halfway up the body. Front carapace: Golden pheasant flank. Collar: Orange mallard flank. GREEN BUTT SKUNK Hook: Partridge M2, sizes 8 to 2. Thread: Black 8/0 (70 denier). Tag: Medium flat silver tinsel. Tail: Red golden pheasant tippet. Butt: Coarse fluorescent chartreuse dubbing. Body: Coarse black UV Dubbing. Rib: Medium oval silver tinsel. Hackle: Black saddle hackle. Wing: White calftail. Cheeks: Jungle cock or a substitute.

MOORISH OCTOBER CADDIS Hook: Tiemco TMC3769, sizes 12 to 6. Thread: Black 8/0 (70 denier). Body: Orange closed-cell foam. Rib: Tying thread. Skating lip: Tan closed-cell foam. Wing: Opal Mirage tinsel and tan Widow’s Web. Hackle: Coachman brown and trimmed flush on the bottom.

POLAR SHRIMP Hook: Partridge M2, sizes 8 to 2. Thread: Orange 8/0 (70 denier). Tail: Red saddle hackle. Body: Hot orange Polar Chenille. Hackle: Orange saddle hackle. Wing: Bleached bear hair.

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steelhead become more bottom oriented. While this means there are fewer topwater fishing opportunities, the runs are usually near their peak and the weather is still very enjoyable. Daytime temperatures are typically in the mid 50 to high 60 degrees Fahrenheit, the nights cool off, and you may find frost or possibly a dusting of snow in the morning. Usually, however, the weather is moderate and mostly dry with plenty of blue skies and sunshine. The Lower Deschutes is a large river. Some anglers opt to fish with single-handed rods and dead-drift or swing flies through the current. For me, however, this fishery cries out for using a two-handed Spey rod. Not all holding water is far from shore and many fish are caught on very short lines, but some runs offer opportunities to air out your best longdistance casts. With the amount of casting done over three days, my body appreciates the power of a two-handed rod, and this style of casting eliminates the thousands of false casts required when using a single-handed rod. I use a 13- to 14½-foot-long rod capable of throwing a 525-grain Skagit head. And, for catching strong steelhead on this large, swift river, you’ll want a reel with a very smooth drag and the capacity to hold at least 250 yards of backing.

FISHING THE DESCHUTES / ASK THE PROS THE STRETCH OF THE DESCHUTES RIVER THE AUTHOR fishes is sparsely populated. The town of Maupin, Oregon, is one of the few points for accessing the river. The nearest large airport to Maupin is in Portland, about a two-hour drive away. There is a municipal airport in The Dalles, about 45 minutes north of Maupin. Maupin is located literally on the banks of the Deschutes. State Highway 197 runs north to south through town. The Dalles is north of Maupin on the south bank of the Columbia River at the junction of Highway 197 and Interstate 84. While Water Time Outfitters (www.watertimeoutfitters.com) is the author’s outfitter of choice, other guides and outfitters also fish the Deschutes. Once you are in the area, drop into a local fly shop for an up-to-date fishing report, check out the hot local flies, pick up any last minute supplies, and purchase a fishing license. And while this article is about fishing the world-renowned Deschutes River, ask about other local fly fishing opportunities. • Deschutes River Outfitters (503) 539-9784 • Deschutes River Fly Fishing (541) 993-5393 • The Fly Fisher’s Place (541) 549-3474 • River Borne Outfitters (541) 647-2584 • Deschutes Angler (541) 395-0995 • Deschutes Canyon Outfitters (541) 395-2565 • River City Fly Shop (503) 579-5176

I also carry a 12½-foot-long rod that will cast a 350- to 425-grain shooting head. This rod is for swinging Caddis Skaters and wet flies for catching the numerous redband rainbow trout and also steelhead when smaller flies are required.

The Fun of New Flies

Discovering new flies is one of my favorite things about taking a destination fishing trip. This type of adventure features new fishing situations and possibly new species not available at home, and tying new patterns is an important part of the preparation. Earlier in the season, before the water begins cooling on the Deschutes, there are more opportunities to catch fish on the surface; this is when skating patterns are productive. It’s my opinion that when using skating flies, motion and presentation, rather than the specific patterns or color, have more to do with their success. I carry surface flies such as the Moorish October Caddis, Bomber, ARF Turbo Gurgler, and Royal Wullf. By mid-October, most fishing is done subsurface, and Spey, Intruder, and rabbit-strip leech flies are effective. A great many classic steelhead patterns have proved effective over the years. Many were developed specifically for the Deschutes. I carry a selection of these flies, usually in smaller sizes, as they work well in low, clear water when the fish may want a more subtle approach. Finally, make sure to pack a camera and even a pair of binoculars. The Lower Deschutes offers more to see than just fish and water. There are beautiful rock formations, rolling hills, and tight canyons. This variety of habitat supports a wide array of wildlife. In the cliffs and hills, you might see deer, elk, bighorn sheep, wild horses, and turkeys. Golden and bald eagles frequent the canyon walls. The river is home to a variety of ducks, geese, mergansers, herons, beavers, and otters. The abundant wildlife and undeveloped surroundings, combined with the opportunity to catch the same species of fish Lewis and Clark saw when they passed by on the Columbia River not far to the north, make this adventure feel like an excursion into the Old West. Al Ritt, who lives in Colorado, is a regular contributor to our magazine. He also oversees the manufacturing of the Peak Vise. To follow Al, go to his website, www.alrittflies.com. Al sent far too many photographs to include in this article. To see more wonderful photos of fishing the Deschutes River, go to www.flytyer.com.

PURPLE PERIL Hook: Partridge M2, sizes 8 to 2. Thread: Black 8/0 (70 denier). Tag: Medium flat gold tinsel. Tail: Purple saddle hackle. Body: Coarse purple dubbing. Rib: Medium oval gold tinsel. Hackle: Purple saddle hackle. Wing: Black bear hair.

RUSTY RAT Hook: Partridge M2, sizes 6 to 1. Thread: Red 8/0 (70 denier). Tag: Small oval gold tinsel. Tail: Peacock sword fibers. Body: Yellow silk floss and peacock herl. Rib: Medium oval gold tinsel. Veil: Yellow silk floss. Wing: Fox squirrel tail. Hackle: Grizzly saddle hackle.

UNDERTAKER Hook: Partridge M2, sizes 6 to 2. Thread: Black 8/0 (70 denier). Tag: Small oval gold tinsel. Tail: Golden pheasant crest. Butt: Fluorescent green and fluorescent red floss. Body: Peacock herl. Rib: Small oval gold tinsel. Hackle: Black saddle hackle. Wing: Black bear hair. Cheeks: Jungle cock or a substitute.

WINTER’S HOPE Hook: Partridge M2, sizes 8 to 2. Thread: Black 8/0 (70 denier). Body: Medium flat silver tinsel. Hackle: Silver Doctor blue and deep purple saddle hackle. Wing: Yellow and orange saddle hackle tips.

W I N T E R 2 0 1 8 | 25

4 Al Ritt

Take the FFI Fly Tying Challenge Practice makes perfect, and this is especially true with fly tying. In this special report, Al Ritt says the Fly Tying Skills Awards Program, sponsored by Fly Fishers International, is the perfect way to make better flies that will catch the attention of fellow anglers and the fish.

noticed the fly out of the corner of my eye, but my feet were a full step ahead before my brain sent the message to stop walking. This pattern was immaculate and deserved its place in the display. We’ve all seen special flies; I’ve certainly seen my share of them. I’m not talking about only complicated patterns, like full-dress salmon flies; even standard trout flies can be special. If it is a dry fly, the hackle fibers stand straight out from the hook; if it is a wet fly, the softer fibers sweep enticingly to the rear. The tails are exactly on top of the hooks and in line with the shanks. And the body proportions are spot on. If we were fish, we would eat these flies! When executed precisely, even very basic patterns—such as a Hare’s-Ear Nymph, Pheasant-Tail

Nymph, a simple soft-hackle, or a basic dry fly— become works of art. Although fly tying is rarely a competitive activity, there are competitions, and these perfect flies win the awards. These patterns catch your attention and illustrate what the art of tying flies can be. For the majority of us, tying flies is a means to an end—to help us catch fish. Sure, most of us enjoy tying, but do our flies have to be perfect? Our handiwork only needs to be good enough to attract fish, right? Well, there are reasons we should up our game. First, a well-tied fly is more durable and lasts longer. We’ve all heard that a scruffy fly has a buggy appearance and is more effective, but a well-tied fly is still a better bet; remember, a scruffy fly can also be well tied. A properly hackled dry fly floats better; the

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BRONZE-LEVEL FLIES The Fly Tying Program of Fly Fishers International features the following great fish-catching patterns. For instructional materials, fly tying videos, and more, go to the program’s website: www.flyfishersinternational.org.

Hare’s-Ear Nymph

Hook: Standard nymph hook. Weight: Nontoxic wire, approximately the diameter of the hook shank. Thread: Black 8/0 (70 denier). Tail: Guard hairs with underfur from a hare’s mask. Abdomen: Dubbing made from the lighter tan area of a hare’s mask with no guard hairs. Rib: Small oval tinsel. Thorax: Dubbing made from the darker area of a hare’s mask with guard hairs. Wing case: Mottled turkey tail fibers.

Partridge & Orange Soft Hackle Hook: 1X-long nymph hook. Thread: Orange 8/0 (70 denier). Abdomen: Orange floss. Rib: Fine gold wire. Thorax: Hare’s mask dubbing. Hackle: Hungarian partridge.

Pheasant-Tail Dry Fly Hook: Standard dry fly hook. Thread: Rusty brown 8/0 (70 denier). Tail: Badger dry fly hackle fibers. Body: Pheasant tail fibers. Rib: Fine silver wire. Hackle: Badger dry fly hackle.

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TIE AN AWARD-WINNING

WOOLLY BUGGER 1 1

Mount the hook in the vise. Start the thread on the hook about one hook-eye width behind the eye. Wrap a solid thread base. Stop wrapping the thread at the end of the hook shank.

Tie on a bundle of marabou fibers for the tail. Keep the tips even; the finished tail should equal the length of the hook. Use four or five tight thread wraps, moving the thread forward as you work. Make sure the tail stays directly on top of the hook and is parallel to the shank.

Wrap forward over the butt ends of the tail fibers to a point about two or three eye widths behind the hook eye. Cut the butt ends off as close to the hook as possible, and cover the trimmed ends with thread wraps. This method creates a level underbody.

4 5 6 7

Tie in the wire for the rib along the side of the hook. Wrap the thread over the tag end of the wire to the end of the hook shank.

Clean the fibers from the end of a piece of chenille. Tie on the clean strings of the chenille. Wrap the thread forward to a point two hook-eye widths behind the eye.

Neatly wrap the chenille forward to form the body of the fly. Tie off the chenille two hook-eye widths behind the eye. Clip the excess chenille and cover the butts with as few thread wraps as possible. If we carefully created a level underbody, the finished chenille body will also be level with no unsightly bumps. This is a key attribute of a properly tied, award-winning Woolly Bugger!

Tie on a saddle feather one hook-eye width behind the eye. (Have you noticed that we are not crowding the hook eye? Crowding the eye is a real rookie mistake.) I like the length of the hackle fibers at the base of the feather to equal 11/2 times the width of the hook gap. Select a hackle that is long enough to spiral-wrap all the way to the end of the fly and does not have a stem too thick to wrap without splitting.

Make two wraps of hackle tight against the front of the chenille body; then spiral-wrap the feather to the end of the fly. Hold the tip of the hackle straight up using hackle pliers.

10 11

Wrap the wire rib once over the hackle at the back end of the fly. Wrap the rib in the opposite direction as the hackle.

Break off the excess wire. Wrap a very neat thread head. Whip-finish the thread and snip. This is an example of a bronze-level Woolly Bugger.

Continue spiral-wrapping the rib forward in evenly spaced turns; the rib crosses over the hackle stem as we work. Bring the wire just forward of the last wrap of hackle. Tie off the rib using a minimum number of thread wraps.

Classic Woolly Bugger

Hook: 3X-long nymph hook, sizes 10 to 4. Thread: Olive 8/0 (70 denier). The color of the thread typically matches the body color, but you may also use black thread. Tail: Olive marabou. Body: Olive chenille. Rib: Copper wire. Hackle: Grizzly saddle hackle dyed olive.

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MASTER THE

GREY GOOSE

Place the hook in the vise; position it so you can tie well into the bend. Start the thread on the hook about one hook-eye width behind the eye. Wrap a smooth, solid thread base down the shank. Stop the thread well into the bend.

Tie in the tips of about four goose wing fibers on top of the hook. When tying a smaller fly, you may wish to use fewer fibers; when making a larger pattern, use one or two more fibers. Tie on the end of the wire on the far side of the hook. Note the small space between the goose fibers and the wire; this empty space equals the width of the fibers. Attach each material using only one or two firm thread wraps.

Wrap the thread forward to a point equal to three hook-eye widths behind the eye. The thread underbody should be smooth with no gaps or lumps. Also, make sure the back end of the fly, where the wire and fibers are tied in, is no wider than the rest of the abdomen.

Wrap the goose fibers forward to the hanging thread. The fibers should lie flat and form a thin abdomen. Tie off the butt ends of the fibers using two thread wraps, and then make one wrap in front of the fibers on the hook shank.

Trim the butt ends of the fibers as close to the hook as you can. Counterwrap the wire rib forward past the tie-off point of the abdomen. Make sure the wire wraps are evenly spaced and consistently angled. Tie off and break the excess wire. Note: Do not tie any of these materials on the bare space of hook behind the eye. Reserve this small space for whip-finishing the thread.

Clip a section of six fibers from a goose wing feather for the wing case. The goal is to form a wing case matching the width of the thorax; adjust the number of fibers to match the size of fly you are tying. Trim the tips of the fibers even, and lay the section flat on top of the hook with the butt ends extending toward the rear of the fly; the tips should not extend beyond the front of the thorax into the whip-finishing area. Tie the section flat on top of the hook. Wrap toward the back of the fly to the rear of the thorax area. The thorax should be one-third the overall length of the fly body.

Tie in the tips of two to four strands of peacock herl at the back of the thorax; use more pieces of herl for a larger fly, and fewer pieces for a smaller pattern. Do not let the tips extend beyond the front of the thorax.

Wrap the peacock herl forward to form the thorax. You may wrap the herl straight onto the hook, or twist the pieces of herl together and then wrap the thorax. Tie off the thorax using two firm thread wraps, and then make one thread wrap in front of the excess herl.

Trim the peacock herl as close to the hook as possible. Pull the wing case forward over the top of the thorax; keep the goose fibers flat and directly on top of the thorax. Tie off the wing case using two or three wraps of thread immediately in front of the thorax.

Trim the wing case fibers as close to the fly as possible, cover the trimmed ends with a minimum number of thread wraps, and wrap a neat head with your whip finish. Snip the thread.

Grey Goose

Hook: Scud hook, sizes 14 to 10. Thread: Black 8/0 (70 denier). Abdomen: Canada goose wing fibers. Rib: Fine silver wire. Thorax: Peacock herl. Wing case: Canada goose wing fibers.

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8 4 Al Ritt

Excited Student 4

W I N T E R 2 0 1 8 | 31

“buggiest” fly in the world won’t float well if it’s tied poorly. A properly constructed wet fly with an appropriately sized hackle is more lively and lifelike in the water, and it will allow you to make a more effective presentation. A good streamer will have an accurate silhouette and good movement in the water, the wing won’t foul around the hook when casting, and it will track straight when retrieved. Let’s face it: Most of us like to challenge ourselves. Whether we have a chance to win an award or just catch a few more fish, we should want to tie better flies.

The FFI Challenge Fly Fishers International has long been acknowledged as an outstanding educational fly fishing organization. Its fly casting instructional program is highly respected. Workshops on fly casting, tying, and fishing are offered at local FFI council events and the annual International Fly Fishing Fair. Several years ago, a group of FFI members formed what they call the Fly Tying Group. The goal of the FFI Fly Tying Group is to advance the art of fly tying. Making fly tying instruction available to all tiers is one of these goals, and this brings us to the relatively new Fly Tying Awards Program. The FFI Fly Tying Awards Program isn’t about headto-head competition between tiers. Instead, the Fly Tying Group is challenging all tiers to improve their skills, and to earn three levels of awards: bronze, silver, and gold. It’s easy to participate, and it is fun to do. Tiers complete each level of the program incrementally. Specific patterns were selected for each level that will best allow a tier to practice and demonstrate specific skills. The required skills become more advanced as you progress through the program levels. The program includes a detailed manual for completing the flies, and features information about proper proportions, material selection, and tying techniques. The FFI website also contains many videos showing how to construct every fly. You can continue practicing each pattern until you are happy with your work, and then submit your flies for evaluation. The evaluation process determines if an applicant’s

LEARN MORE ABOUT THE FLY TYING SKILLS AWARDS PROGRAM The Fly Tying Skills Awards Program of Fly Fishers International features instructional guidebooks and videos that will help you tie better flies. Once you feel you have mastered making the patterns, you can submit your flies to an expert tier for evaluation. It’s fun, you compete only against yourself, and you will become more proficient at the art of fly tying. To learn more about the Fly Tying Skills Awards Program and Fly Fishers International, go to the organization’s website: www.flyfishersinternational.org.

flies meet the criteria of the program. Flies are evaluated on overall appearance and consistency, proper proportions, material selection, and placement of materials on the hook. Feedback is provided to each applicant about his or her flies. Unsuccessful applicants will find the feedback helpful and are encouraged to continue working to complete that award level. Incorporate the necessary changes into your flies, practice some more, and submit another batch of flies for evaluation. You work at your own pace, using the input of experienced tiers, and in the end, you will tie better flies! I have completed the bronze and silver levels, and I recently submitted my gold-level patterns; one of those flies did not pass muster the first time around, and I have taken into account the comments of the evaluator and retied them. Hopefully, I will earn my gold-level status. Even after tying flies for more than 30 years, I have improved all my tying skills. Going through the program has reminded me to focus on details, proportions, and consistency. Working through the gold level, I found room to improve my consistency and proportions.

It’s as Simple as Tying a Woolly Bugger I am a better tier for going through the program, and I am looking forward to the feedback on my gold-level flies. I bet you, too, would enjoy taking your tying skills to an award-winning level without the pressure of entering a contest. Let’s get started with the bronze-level flies. Yes, it’s as simple as tying a Woolly Bugger. But you can’t tie just any old Woolly Bugger; even a novice attending the first evening of a fly tying class can construct— although sometimes painfully—this basic pattern. Your award-level fly must have perfect proportions, you must select the right materials, and you must demonstrate that you know how to tie them to the hook. And you must be able to consistently tie similar-looking Woolly Buggers. Are you up these challenges? I am including the tying steps for two bronze-level patterns; the first is the basic Woolly Bugger. (Note that all the tying photos show the patterns as though you were sitting across the tying bench from an instructor. Pretend you are in a fly tying class!) The second pattern, the Grey Goose, is not commonly encountered on American rivers; the FFI, after all, is an international organization. The Grey Goose, however, is a productive addition to any fly box, and tying it requires some of the most utilized and basic tying skills. Once you master making the ordinary Grey Goose and win your bronze level, alter the recipe using dyed feathers to create patterns to match a wide variety of small nymphs. The Fly Fishers International Fly Tying Skills Awards Program isn’t about competition; it is about self-improvement. You compete against yourself and improve your skills. In the end, you will tie flies that catch more fish. Al Ritt has contributed many articles to our magazine. Al also sits on the board of the FFI Fly Tying Group, and he is one of the evaluators of the bronze-level patterns.

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BRONZE-LEVEL FLIES Biot Emerger

Hook: Curved-shank scud hook. Thread: Black Benecchi 12/0. Abdomen: Light gray goose biot. Rib: Fine blue wire. Thorax: Hareâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s-mask dubbing. Wing case: Duck wing slip.

Gray Hackle Yellow Hook: Standard dry fly hook. Thread: Gray 8/0 (70 denier). Tail: Red stiff hackle fibers. Body: Yellow Super Fine Dubbing. Rib: Medium gold tinsel. Hackle: Grizzly dry fly hackle.

Pheasant-Tail Nymph

Hook: Standard nymph hook. Thread: Rusty brown 8/0 (70 denier). Tail: Rooster ring-necked pheasant tail fibers. Abdomen: Rooster ring-necked pheasant tail fibers. Rib: Small copper wire. Wing case: Rooster ring-necked pheasant tail fibers. Thorax: Peacock herl. Legs: Butt ends of the wing case fibers, three fibers per side.

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Wild

GOING

WITH

QUILLS Stripped peacock quills are a traditional fly tying material, but most tiers think using them is too difficult. Nicole March shares her tricks for creating realistic insect bodies with this common ingredient.

SUMMER DRIFT, BY ADRIANO MANOCCHIA

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It takes only one fleeting glance at those perfect strippedpeacock-quill bodies, and you’re hooked. You can’t stop staring. They are so awesome. In fact, you’ve been looking at the framed flies on the wall for so long that you’re beginning to look like a weirdo. Quick, just pay for the peacock eyes and get out of there! To some folks, this scenario sounds a little strange; to others, it’s just another day in the life of a fly tier. One minute you’re driving home with visions of quill-bodied Catskill dry flies and soft-hackles dancing in your head, and the next thing you know, you have a jumble of brittle, bleach-burnt quills lying discarded on your tying bench. Your dreams were short lived, but it doesn’t always end like this. Some stories have happier endings. You can make your own stripped quills; Al Beatty described how to do it in the Spring 2017 issue of this magazine. You spend an hour with an eraser, carefully rubbing the fibers from the herl stems; if you want a lot stripped quills, you can submerse a batch of herls into a solution of bleach and water to burn off the fibers. But that’s only the beginning; even if you successfully make stripped quills, other problems can arise. You might wrap the bodies of your flies, but the stripped quills keep sliding around the hook shanks. Or maybe you do everything right, but your finished flies just look wrong. This happens to a lot of tiers, but don’t give up just yet.

POLISH QUILLS TO THE RESCUE

Whether you’ve abandoned the idea of stripping your own quills, are looking to improve your techniques using this material, or this is something totally new to you, set aside your past frustrations or newfound doubts. Let’s start simple with a package of pre-stripped peacock quills made by Polish Quills. Polish Quills are one of my absolute favorite fly tying materials. Use them for making segmented bodies on dry flies, nymphs, and wet flies. Once you get the hang of them, using Polish Quills is a blast. (Fly shops are beginning to carry Polish Quills, but if there isn’t a shop near you, go to www.jstockard.com.) The company that manufactures Polish Quills handstrips their quills as opposed to immersing them in a bleach bath to remove the fibers. As a result, you use Polish Quills right out of the package; bleached quills usually require soaking and softening in water before use. Polish Quills come in a good selection of dyed colors for matching the insects on your local stream. Polish Quills come from the eyes of peacock feathers and are fine for tying flies from size 22 to 12. You can often use a single quill for making more than one small fly. Because you will cut the quill in half to make the two flies, the spacing between the segmented quill bodies might not exactly match, but the fish will never notice. If you were frustrated with your quill bodies in the past, I’m going to give you a few pointers that I hope will help you in the future.

Once you’ve decided to take the leap into the wonderful world of quill bodies, you need to acquire some stripped peacock quills. You can make your own or buy a package of stripped quills. Polish Quills come in a wide range of useful colors. More fly shops across the country are carrying Polish Quills, and you can find them at many online fly tying supply houses, including www.jstockard.com.

IMPORTANT TIPS

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What’s the difference between using hand-stripped quills and Polish Quills? I tied the emerger on the left using a quill I stripped myself, and I made the one on the right using a pre-stripped quill. Both flies look good, but using the Polish Quills is just easier; I spend less time prepping materials, and more time tying flies. You can wrap a stripped quill using your fingers or hackle pliers. I cannot stress enough the need for using lightweight hackle pliers. These pliers, made by TyFlyz Toolz, are great for gently grasping fine materials such as stripped quills. Look for these and other lightweight hackle pliers in your local fly shop. Here’s a detailed photograph of a “flat” fly tying thread. The fibers of some threads are wound tight and bonded together; the fibers of flat thread are spooled with little twist and no bonding agent. As a result, the fibers come off the spool straight and lie smooth on the hook. Using flat thread is critical to creating a smooth underbody.

Wrapping a Neat Thread Underbody You can just lash materials to the hook and hope for the best, but it usually requires no more effort to tie a great fly. When making a pattern featuring a stripped-quill body, it starts with wrapping a smooth underbody. Here’s how.

1 2 3 4 5 6

Start the thread one hook-eye width behind the eye. Make a few wraps down the shank and snip the thread tag. Wrap the thread to the end of the hook shank. Here we have wrapped the first layer of the thread underbody.

Wrap the thread back up the shank. I spin the bobbin counterclockwise every 10 or so wraps to remove any twist from the thread. Notice that the fibers are aligned and the thread is lying flat on the hook. There are no rules! If you have trouble wrapping the thread on a curvedshank hook, repositioning the hook in the vise might make this easier to do. Let’s be honest: Flat fly tying thread has its own issues. If you see the fibers of your thread spacing out like this, remove two or three wraps and try again. Here we are—a smooth and tapered thread underbody.

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How to Wrap a Great Quill Body

Do you get frustrated tying stripped-quill bodies? Does this material seem difficult to use? Follow these tips and master the art of making great stripped-quill bodies.

Wrap a smooth layer of thread on the hook shank. Remove a stripped quill from the package, or prepare your own stripped quill; the tying steps and results will be pretty much the same. First, clip the remaining piece of herl from the tip of the quill.

2 3 4 5

The quill will have one dark edge. This is important!

Position the quill at the base of the hook on the side closest to you with the dark edge facing up. Secure the quill in place with one thread wrap.

Gently pull the quill to shorten the waste end. (A righthanded tier pulls the quill to the left.)

Lift the quill vertical to make sure the dark edge is on the left; notice how the quill folds when it is lifted. If the dark edge is on the right, we will cover it when wrapping the quill up the hook and lose the segmented appearance. If the dark edge is not on the left, remove the quill and start again.

6 7 8 9 10 11

Wrap a smooth and tapered thread underbody.

Grasp the end of the quill with gentle hackle pliers.

Begin wrapping the quill up the hook. Slightly overlap the wraps as you work up the shank. You can now see why the dark edge of the quill must be to the left. Rotating the hook might make it easier to wrap the quill onto the end of a curved-shank hook.

Continue wrapping the quill up the hook shank. Our quill body is taking the shape of the smooth, tapered underbody. Once youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve reached the front end of the abdomen, tie off the quill. Add a two-turn whip-finish or half-hitch knot so you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t lose thread tension on the quill. Cover the butt end of the quill with thread wraps and clip the remainder.

Coat the quill body with a drop of light-activated adhesive or cement. Wow, what a realistic-looking abdomen! Allow the cement to dry, and tie the nymph or emerger of your choice. Make a stripped-quill abdomen on a dry fly hook, and create a good-looking floating pattern.

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FIRST STEP: WRAP A GOOD UNDERBODY

A finished body made using chenille, dubbing, and Estaz doesn’t need a perfect underbody. These thicker materials usually hide any lumps and bumps in the underbody. Wrapping a smooth, tapered underbody, however, is the first step in making a nice stripped-quill body. Using a thread that lies flat on the hook is critical to making a smooth underbody; a thread that does not lie flat will create small, round ridges in the underbody that will cause the quill to slide into the ruts when wrapped on the hook shank. I am partial to Lagartun 150D, but there are quite a few good, fine threads on the market; test some of them until you are happy with the results. The main feature you are looking for is a thread that lies flat and creates smooth wraps when layered on top of each other. Also, spinning the bobbin counterclockwise after making every 10 or so wraps removes any twist in the thread and will keep it lying flat. There’s no denying the fact that hand-stripped peacock quills are more fragile than other materials for making bodies on trout flies. I recommend sealing wrapped quill bodies with some sort of light-activated adhesive or thick head cement. A product called Solarez Thin-—Hard Formula is a great choice because it cures in seconds with no tackiness. It is also very durable; you will catch several fish using a single fly before the body begins to show signs of wear. Some tiers smear a drop of glue on an underbody before wrapping the quill up the hook, but I do not. This is just personal preference. If you are new to working with stripped quills, I recommend skipping this step because you may want to reposition some quills and the glue would make this difficult to do.

QUILL-HAMMER

HOOK: Partridge Klinkhammer, size 12. THREAD: Tan 6/0 (140 denier). POST: EP Trigger Point Fibers, golden sulfur. UNDERBODY: Gold holographic tinsel. BODY: Ginger stripped peacock quill. THORAX: Peacock herl. HACKLE: Ginger. NOTE: I was blown away the first time I saw this technique for making the body on a fly. Holger Lachmann, who runs the blog www.theonefly.com, spiral-wraps the quill over the holographic tinsel underbody. The results are outstanding!

THERE’S A WRONG WAY, AND A RIGHT WAY

A lot of tiers ask me why their quills wrap in the “wrong” direction even though they do it “the right way.” They follow the instructions, but their flies still don’t look correct; the bodies on their flies don’t have the desired natural segmentation. If this happens to you, don’t get upset; just take a deep breath and look at the way you wrap the quill starting with the first turn. First, you must tie the quill to the hook so the dark edge is exposed after wrapping the body. Also, each new wrap should lie slightly over the previous wrap. Do it the right way, and your fly will take on a natural-looking segmentation right before your eyes. Don’t become frustrated with your first handful of flies tied using stripped peacock quills. Instead, put them in your fly box and take them fishing. Let the trout judge the quality of your handiwork. I bet you’ll be pleasantly surprised with their decision.

QUILL-BODY RUSTY SPINNER

HOOK: Regular dry fly hook, sizes 18 to 12. THREAD: Black 6/0 (140 denier). TAILING: Cream Microfibbets. ABDOMEN: Red stripped peacock quill. WINGS: EP Trigger Point Fibers, pale spinner. THORAX: Rusty brown Super Fine Dry Fly Dubbing.

Nicole March is very involved with the Catskill Fly Tyers Guild, Kids on the Fly, and Project Healing Waters. Be sure to visit her website, www.thequiltedtyer.com. Nicole lives in New Jersey. 40 | W W W . F L Y T Y E R . C O M

QUILL-BODY FLYING ANT

CADDIS QUILL JIG

QUILL-BODY SOFT-HACKLE

QUILL-BODY CDC EMERGER

HOOK: Regular dry fly hook, size 14. THREAD: Black 6/0 (140 denier). UNDERBODY: Tying thread. ABDOMEN: Red stripped peacock quill. WING: Pearl Baitfish Emulator Flash or Krystal Flash. HACKLE: Grizzly dry fly hackle. HEAD: Black thread.

HOOK: Partridge Barbless Jig Hook, size 14. THREAD: Tan 6/0 (140 denier). BEAD: 7/64-inch copper tungsten slotted bead. TAIL: Wood duck flank or mallard. BODY: Brown or ginger stripped peacock quill. THORAX: Brown SLF Squirrel Dubbing.

THREAD: Black 6/0 (140 denier). HOOK: Regular wet fly hook, sizes 16 to 12. BODY: Brown stripped peacock quill. THORAX: A blend of black Ice Dubbing and a few squirrel guard hairs. HACKLE: Partridge.

HOOK: Curved-shank emerger hook, sizes 18 to 12. THREAD: Olive or tan 6/0 (140 denier). BODY: Brown stripped peacock quill. SHUCK AND WING: Tan cul de canard. THORAX: Sybai Super Fine UV Dubbing, claret. (You may substitute another brand of UV dubbing.)

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The

Carnivore Crayfish BIG BASS LOVE CRAYFISH. Drew Chicone shares his newest easy-to-tie imitation for catching trophy fish. 42 | W W W . F L Y T Y E R . C O M

The trick to catching a crayfish—if you do want to catch one—is to lift the end of a rock off the streambed very slowly so you don’t disturb the bottom too much. When I was a kid, if I could muster the strength to pry it loose from the muddy creek bed, a large flat rock was always the most fruitful. By the time I was old enough to fish by myself, I was an expert at capturing the minuscule crustaceans hiding under those rocks. With Grandma’s mop bucket in tow, I quickly pounced on the primo bass bait using a three-finger kung fu grip before they could dart away backwards and vanish. If you distract them with one hand, the more aggressive crayfish will fight and put their claws up in a defensive posture. Although they are only a few inches long, if one of these little savages gets hold of you, you will know it! Once I had a half dozen or so crayfish in my bucket, I would march to the end of the dock in my soggy Chuck Taylors, hook one of my quarry through its tail, and launch it toward a nearby weedbed. I was always amazed by how fast they rocketed toward the bottom and how quickly they found new rocky hiding places.

Drew Designs a New Fly The process of designing a new fishcatching fly can take weeks, months, and sometimes years. Selecting the right hook, materials, and essential components to give the fly the desired presentation and action typically requires a lot of trial and error, and usually one of the pieces to the puzzle isn’t quite right at first. After analyzing the characteristics, colors, and behaviors of crayfish for the better part of my childhood, however, conjuring up an imitation seemed like second nature. Like any other bottom-dwelling critter, a crayfish displays coloration unique to the water in which it lives. In my neck of the woods, crayfish are muddy brown with highlights of brick red or baby blue on the legs, tail, and claws. You can divide this miniature lobster into two main pieces: the head plus appendages, and a large segmented tail. When held up to the light, the tail of a real crayfish comprises five pairs of swimmerets that give it a semitranslucent appearance. Oversized claws are this little guy’s main defense mechanism, and they are a key attribute to any good imitation. I create the cone-shaped head of my fly using long, translucent Finnish raccoon guard hairs. The 7/32-ounce brass Dazl-Eyes look like overkill, but I find that this much weight is necessary to get the fly to the bottom quickly and offset the buoyancy of the rubber claws. Once on the bottom, the fly remains stationary while the claws float upward into the fighting position. Four- to 6-inch-long rubber legs lend the fly good action when stripped through the water and then quickly settle to the bottom, giving this imitation a very natural flight-andfight posture. A single-strand weed guard is usually enough to keep this pattern snag-free, but you can use a double-post weed guard for fishing around heavy structure and thick grass. The Carnivore Crayfish is ideal for catching big bass and many other species of freshwater game fish. This pattern is easy to tie and a hoot to fish. Add the Carnivore Crayfish to your fly box and get ready for some great fishing. Drew Chicone is a regular contributor to this magazine. He is a leading designer of terrific saltwater flies, but as this article shows, he also enjoys tying—and catching—hawg bass. Drew lives in Florida. W I N T E R 2 0 1 8 | 43

Step 1

Starting the

Carnivore

Crayfish 1 2 3

Start the thread at the hook. Make 10 to 12 wraps down the shank. Tie on the dumbbell using a series of tight figure-eight wraps.

Wrap the thread to the end of the hook shank. Fold a strand of black and a strand of tan Krystal Flash around the thread. Wrap the thread (about 8 to 10 turns) down the hook bend, securing the Krystal Flash to the hook. Trim the Krystal Flash to approximately twice the length of the hook.

Tie a matchstick-sized section of Finnish raccoon guard hairs around the base of the Krystal Flash using two loose thread wraps. Tighten the thread and cover the butt ends of the fur with a series of firm wraps.

Crimp the posts on a pair of EP Crab & Shrimp Eyes. The flattened segments will cause the eyes to flare away from the body when tied in place.

Tie the first monofilament eye on the near side of the hook, angling slightly downward and extending just beyond the bend.

7 8

Tie the second eye to the far side of the hook.

Examine the fly from the top. Make sure the eyes align evenly down the sides of the fly.

44 | W W W . F L Y T Y E R . C O M

Step 2

Making the

Nose and

Claws 1

Wrap the thread forward, covering the monofilament eye posts; continue wrapping until the thread is hanging opposite the hook point. Cut the excess ends of the monofilament posts. Covering the posts helps build up the body of the fly and keeps the eyes from pulling out when fishing.

Select a lure skirt or about 10 rubber legs for the claws in the color of your choice. Tie a knot approximately one inch from each end of the material.

Fold the rubber legs over the thread. Tie on the material perpendicular to the hook shank using a series of figure-eight wraps. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t apply too much tension on the thread, or you might cut through the rubber.

Select a matchstick-sized bunch of Finnish raccoon fur. The length of the material is approximately equal to the length of the hook.

Turn the hook over in the vise. Tie the fur directly on the base of the eyes and claws. Cover the butt end of the fur with several tight thread wraps.

Make a dubbing loop at the base of the rubber claws, and advance the thread approximately Âž inch in front of the hook point.

Whip-finish and cut the thread.

W I N T E R 2 0 1 8 | 45

Step 3

Tie the HEAD of the

Carnivore

Crayfish 1

Fill four to five inches of the dubbing loop with Finnish raccoon fur. Spread the fur evenly in the loop; the material should look sparse, not bunched together. The trimmed butt ends of the hair stick out approximately Âź inch beyond the loop, and the tapered tips equal the length of the hook. Once you are satisfied with the length of the hair, spin the loop closed.

2 3

Comb and tease out the fur using a dog brush or dubbing needle.

Spiral-wrap the dubbing loop forward to opposite the hook point; stroke back the hairs between each wrap. Leave a slight gap between each wrap or the fly will be too bulky and have difficulty sinking.

After wrapping the fur dubbing up the hook, let the loop unwind and remove any excess material. Whip-finish both the thread and loop. Cut the thread and remaining portion of the loop.

Place your scissors against the hook shank at a 45-degree angle. Carefully clip the fur into a tapered cone that widens toward the eyes.

Continue trimming the fur all the way around the head of the fly; be careful not to cut the antennae or claws. There should be approximately Â˝ inch of untrimmed fur left to cover the hook bend and eyes of the fly.

The Carnivore Crayfish is ideal for catching big bass and many other species of freshwater game fish. This pattern is easy to tie and a hoot to fish. 46 | W W W . F L Y T Y E R . C O M

Step 4

Tie the BODY of the

Carnivore

Crayfish 1 2

Restart the thread next to the fur head.

Turn the fly over in the vise with the hook point on the bottom. Tie the tip of a piece of yarn to the hook.

Wrap the yarn to the dumbbell eyes and back to the hanging thread. Tie off the yarn. You may make a few extra wraps of yarn next to the fur head to give the body a more natural-looking taper.

If you are satisfied with the appearance of the underbody, cut away the excess yarn.

Make a 10-inch loop of olive brown Polar Chenille. Tie on the tips of the chenille in front of the fur head.

Fold three or four rubber legs around the thread. Tie on the legs perpendicular to the hook shank using several figureeight wraps.

7 8 9 10

Spiral-wrap the thread to the dumbbell to create a segmented body.

Make two or three figure-eight wraps of chenille over base of the legs. Spiral-wrap the chenille over the body.

Spiral-wrap the chenille up the body to the dumbbell. Brush back the fibers in the Polar Chenille after each wrap. Tie off the remaining chenille with several tight thread wraps. Cut away the excess chenille.

W I N T E R 2 0 1 8 | 47

Carnivore Crayfish Hook: Mustad 60403NP-TX TitanX Wacky Neko Hook, size 1. Thread: Olive 3/0 (210 denier). Antennae: Black Krystal Flash. Eyes: Extra-large EP Crab & Shrimp Eyes. Weight: 7/32-inch, black nickel Dazl-Eyes. Legs and claws: Living Image Molting Craw Dalmatian lure skirt or rubber legs. Head: Olive brown Finnish raccoon. Body: Olive brown Polar Chenille. Weed guard: 20-pound-test hard Mason monofilament. Adhesive: Loon Outdoors Fly Finish (Flow).

Read Drew Chicone’s Newest Book

Fly Tyer author Drew Chicone is well known for his saltwater flies, but did you know that he also designs terrific patterns for catching bass and other warmwater species? In his latest book, Largemouth Bass Flies, Drew turns his attention to tying patterns for catching one of our favorite game fish. To learn more about all of Drew’s books, check out his website, www. saltyflytying.com. And while you’re there, be sure to sign up for Drew’s informative e-newsletter.

48 | W W W . F L Y T Y E R . C O M

Step 5

Completing the

Carnivore

Crayfish 1

Turn the hook over in the vise with the point on top; this is how the fly will appear in the water. Now you may tie on a weed guard. For this pattern, I prefer a single post of 20-pound-test hard monofilament.

2 3

Whip-finish and snip the thread.

Apply a thin coat of Loon Outdoors Fly Finish (Flow) to the exposed thread wraps. This light-activated acrylic finish penetrates the thread wraps and creates an extremely durable fly. You may, of course, substitute your favorite brand of adhesive.

Turn the fly over in the vise with the point on the bottom. Trim the Polar Chenille fibers along the top of the hook at a 45-degree angle; remove more fibers closest to the dumbbell eyes. This gives the fly a naturally tapered look.

5 6

Tie a knot in each leg approximately ½ inch from the body.

7 8

Cut the ends of the claws ¾ inch beyond the knots.

Gather all the legs together. Trim the legs approximately ¾ inch beyond the knots.

Here is our completed Carnivore Crayfish, ready for fishing action!

W I N T E R 2 0 1 8 | 49

ny job has a monotonous side. Chores that you are not particularly fond of doing, but must do, help maintain this sense of monotony. This sometimes happens with our fly tying. If you’re down in the dumps or become bored with your tying, trying something new might be just the pickme-up you need to get your creative juices flowing and bring excitement to your time at the vise. I have been tying flies, and writing articles and books about the subject, for several decades. I’ve been working at it full-time for the past 25 years. Unfortunately, with all this effort, a lot of people label me as an expert. The truth is, however, I am still a novice at many types of fly tying. Sure, I have a decent knowledge of materials and techniques that help with all my tying, but when I start making a style of fly that is unfamiliar to me, it’s like starting one of those books that you just can’t put down. Every now and then, I embark on one of these fly tying journeys. Once upon a time, I got hooked on making adult caddisflies. I tied as many patterns as I could find, from the well known to the obscure. Another time it was saltwater patterns using exotic materials. These endeavors not only expanded my tying skills and knowledge of materials but also breathed new life into all my tying. I was trying something new! This Is One of Those Journeys

The first things that attracted me to classic streamers were their sheer elegance and length. I have had Alcock, Mustad, and Partridge long-shank streamer hooks in my fly tying bench for many years. On several occasions, I have taken them out, examined them, and considered what I could tie with them. I have occasionally tied flies on them, but not classic freshwater streamers. These long, streamlined flies are beautifully constructed and come in amazing colors. They are true American gems! As I started looking more closely at the different patterns by Carrie Stevens, I found that, unlike classic Atlantic salmon flies, her patterns contained a minimum of exotic materials. The majority of the ingredients she used consisted of homegrown American hackle and bucktail. This sent me off on another tangent: Was her selection of materials by choice or through necessity? I had so many questions, and from where I live in Norway, I could find hardly any authoritative literature. I did, however, have the Internet. After finding various pattern recipes, I started tying the flies. I posted a few images on Facebook and received pointers from several knowledgeable tiers, including Chris Del Plato. I quickly understood that Chris has vast knowledge about how to make Mrs. Stevens’s patterns, and he became my online resource. After asking many questions, I received a bunch of photocopies in the post—all the way from the United States—of articles Chris had written on the subject, including how to select hackles, construct the wings, proper proportions, and more. I had everyHOOK: Partridge CS15, size 4. (You may thing I needed to get started. Thank you, Chris! substitute another brand of 6Xto 8X-long streamer hook of your choice.) Although I am only a humble apprentice in the art of tying feather-wing THREAD: White gel spun. streamers, let me share with you a little of what I have learned. Maybe this style TAG: Flat silver tinsel. of tying will inspire you to tie some of these wonderful streamers. Maybe you BODY: Red silk floss. will become inspired to begin a fly tying journey of your own.

Blue Devil Custom

Barry Clarke is a regular contributor to our magazine. Although he is being humble in this article about his abilities, believe me, he is an expert tier; I am envious of his talents at the vise. Barry lives in Norway, but you’ll find him on his website, www.thefeatherbender.com. If you’d like to learn more about tying historic streamers, be sure to read Sharon E. Wright’s book titled Tying Heritage Featherwing Streamers (Stackpole Books). Sharon has occasionally contributed articles to our magazine, and her book has been hailed as the definitive source of how-to information on making this style of fly.

RIB: Flat silver tinsel. THROAT: White bucktail and a reddish-orange hen hackle. WING: Eight to 10 strands of peacock herl, two reddish-orange hackles, and two blue hackles. SHOULDER: Brownish-gray partridge hackle. CHEEKS: Jungle cock.

50 | W W W . F L Y T Y E R . C O M

A Fly Tying Journey into the Unknown Fly tying guru Barry Clarke says making new styles of patterns will reinvigorate all your time at the vise.

W I N T E R 2 0 1 8 | 51

STEP 1 Tie the Body

of the Streamer 1 2

Clamp your streamer hook in the vise with the shank horizontal to the bench top.

Start the tying thread on the hook shank opposite the point. White thread is best for tying the underbody because it won’t affect the color of the finished floss body. Spin the thread clockwise so it lies flat; this will reduce or eliminate any unsightly bumps. A typical Carrie Stevens-style streamer has a slim body.

Tie on a short length of flat silver tinsel. Make six or seven neat touching wraps of tinsel to form the tag of the fly. Wrap the tinsel edge to edge, not overlapping. Tie off and clip the excess piece of tinsel.

Tie a longer length of flat silver tinsel at the end of the tag on the back side of the hook shank. Wrap the thread neatly up the shank. Take your time and work carefully; if you create an uneven underbody, it will affect the appearance of the finished floss body. Tie on a length of red floss a little distance behind the hook eye.

Before wrapping a floss body, let the material hang vertically. Lightly pinch the floss between your forefinger and thumb at the hook shank. Gently slide your fingers down the floss. (Be sure to wash your hands before doing this because even the natural oils on your fingers might discolor the bright floss.) Repeat this a few times to remove any twist and flatten the material. Carefully wrap the floss down the hook to the tag, and then back up the hook to the thread; make these wraps as neat and flat as possible. Tie off the floss with a whip finish. You can now burnish the floss body by rubbing something hard and smooth gently up and down body. If you don’t have a burnishing tool, use the concave side of a teaspoon.

Carefully spiral-wrap the tinsel rib over the body. Make evenly spaced wraps. Next, tie off and trim the surplus tinsel. Secure the thread with a single whip finish a little behind the hook eye.

Clean and stack a bunch of long, straight-fibered white bucktail for the throat. Select this hair from the top half—not the base—of the tail. The hair from the base will flare under thread tension, but the material from the top of the tail will lie flatter. The completed throat extends about one hookgap length beyond the end of the hook. Tie on the throat using a couple of loose thread wraps. Next, pinch the base of the throat to the hook and gradually tighten the thread. Secure the throat with a couple of tighter thread wraps. Carefully—I said carefully—trim off the butt ends of the bucktail at a slight angle toward the hook eye. Make a whip finish.

Select 8 to 10 straight strands of nice peacock herl. To tie a really beautiful fly, avoid strung herl because these are often bent or broken. Choose full-bodied herl with nice tips and good iridescent color. Align the tips and lay the pieces parallel to each other. Tie the bunch of herl to the top of the hook shank. Don’t worry if any of the herls flare a little because you can position them later when tying on the wings.

Select a throat hackle. Prepare the hackle before tying it to the hook: strip the fluffy fibers from the base of the feather, and brush the remaining fibers together so they will wrap neatly on the hook. Tie the tip of the hackle to the top of the fly.

10 11 12

Wrap the collar hackle around the hook shank. Brush the fibers back between each wrap. Tie off and clip the remaining piece of hackle. Moisten your fingers, and brush the hackle fibers to the top and bottom of the fly. I brush a few more fibers into the hackle throat.

Clamp the hackle between a small piece of foam and your hackle pliers. This holds the hackle in the correct position and shape. Now is a good time to stretch and get a cup of coffee. 52 | W W W . F L Y T Y E R . C O M

W I N T E R 2 0 1 8 | 53

STEP 2

A Brief Lesson in Making Classic Feather Wings 1

Now it’s time to construct the wings of our streamer. Each side of the wing requires four components: a red hackle, a blue hackle, a partridge body feather, and a jungle cock neck feather. First, select matching red hackles from the left- and right-hand sides of a cape. If you select feathers from a package of strung hackle, place a pair of hackles back to back to see that they have a similar droop and shape. Measure the hackles against the hook shank; the completed wing should extend at least one hook-gap length beyond the bend. Strip fluffy fibers from the base of both feathers until they are the correct length. Note that the blue hackles are slightly shorter than the red feathers, and the partridge and jungle cock feathers are about one-third the length of the hackle wings.

Glue the components together to construct each half of the wing. Use thick cement that won’t wick into the feather fibers. I used a regular bottle of Veniard’s Cellire Varnish that I left open for about a week. This made the varnish evaporate by about half and resulted in thick, sticky cement. Place a small bead of cement along the base of the convex side of the red hackle stem. Apply cement only in the area that will be covered by the blue hackle.

Place the blue hackle directly on top of the red hackle; make sure that the stems are aligned. When you’re happy with the position and alignment of the feathers, pinch them together lightly. The thick cement glues the hackles together.

Select two hackles from the right and left of a gray partridge skin. These feathers are of a similar size and have similar colors and markings, but they curve in opposite directions. Strip fibers from the base of both feathers until they cover about one-third of the hackle wings.

We’ll first add the partridge feather to the right half of the wing. Smear a small bead of cement along the stem of the blue hackle of the right wing. Place the partridge feather you selected from the right side of the skin on top of the hackle. Carefully align the stems and lightly press the feathers together. Repeat these steps to add the partridge feather to the left wing.

Now we’ll add the jungle cock cheeks to the wings. Select two identical jungle cock feathers. Strip the fluffy fibers from the base of both feathers until they equal one-third the length of the hackle wings. The gluing process for adding these feathers to the wings is different from the previous steps. First, place a drop of the cement on the back side of the jungle cock feather, not the stem of the partridge hackle. Place the jungle cock feather on top of the partridge feather; once again, carefully align the stems. Press the feathers together, and set this half of the wing aside to dry. Repeat this step to complete the other half of the wing.

The completed matched wings look beautiful and are well balanced. You can spend an evening just constructing wings. Store them in an envelope until you are ready to tie the flies. 54 | W W W . F L Y T Y E R . C O M

STEP 3 Finish the Blue Devil Custom 1

Tying on the wings and wrapping a neat thread head are always a challenge; all tiers have their little tricks. I cut the excess feather stems at an angle. The longer red stem almost equals the length of the finished head.

We shall tie the wings of our Blue Devil Custom on top of the hook. First, smear a bead of thickened cement on the concave (back side) of one of the constructed wings. Place the cement in the area behind the jungle cock feather; the shoulder and cheek feathers hide the cement. Place the two wings together back to back. Carefully align the stems, and adjust the wings so the tips match. Lightly pinch the wings together and allow the cement to dry. Next, place the wings on top of the hook. Hold the wings in position using two or three light thread wraps, and examine your work. Adjust the wings so they sweep along the top of the fly; if things look terribly wrong, simply unwrap the thread and try again. When you are pleased with appearance of your streamer, make a couple more tight thread wraps, and then pull your bobbin up to firmly secure the wings.

Now we’ll make the black thread head without changing threads! Rather than changing threads and perhaps disturbing the position of the wings, I simply swiped the white thread coming out of my bobbin with a black marker. Wrap a neat thread head. A slender, tapered head is a sign of a well-tied fly.

Whip-finish the thread and snip. Coat the head of the fly with thin—not thickened—cement. The thin cement absorbs into the thread and locks together the components of the fly. Allow the cement to dry, and apply a second coat.

W I N T E R 2 0 1 8 | 55

SQUIRRELS, BY BOB KUHN. COURTESY OF REMINGTON ARMS.

All fly shops carry squirrel tails. Al and Gretchen Beatty offer great ideas for tying better flies using this common and inexpensive fly tying material.

Fan Tail PERFECTION 56 | W W W . F L Y T Y E R . C O M

ur family has had a long love-hate relationship with squirrels. Gretchen’s father, Dub Evans, often used squirrel tails in his commercial fly tying business in the 1940s and 1950s, eventually passing his love of the material onto his fly tying daughter. As a farm kid living in Iowa, Al soon learned that squirrel-tail hair is a great tying material. In the 1950s, there were no fly shops near his home, but there were plenty of squirrels living in his backyard. Squirrel tails were readily available, and Al harvested and used a lot of them. The availability of so many squirrels was both good and bad. It was handy to have squirrels available for tying flies, but those cute little critters could quickly tear up a granary in their zeal to get to the corn, beans, and grain. Keeping those destructive rodents in check was a never-ending chore. While Al loved having so much tying material right out the back door, his father became quite concerned for the safety of his crops and buildings. About the same time, many miles to the west in Idaho, Gretchen’s father experienced a similar problem with the local squirrels that wanted to steal the crop from his favorite walnut tree. In the end, when we got married in the early 1990s, we had far more squirrel tails than we could ever use, so we donated many of them to a local fly tying club.

Birth of a Good Idea

One of the fun things about sitting together every day while tying flies is you have a lot of time to brainstorm new ideas. We often discuss designing flies using the excess materials we have on hand. If you haven’t guessed by now, squirrel tails keep coming into our conversations. We still remember our first order for flies requiring squirrel-tail hair; it was for 30 dozen Squirrel-Tail Spruce Fly Streamers. We were pleased to find a use for some of our excess squirrel tails, but getting the flies to the shop was a bit of a journey. This is where the word “fan” comes into the title of this article. One of Al’s all-time favorite streamers is the Spruce Fly tied with a set of furnace hackles for the wings. Fox squirrel tail hair makes a similar looking wing, but while the new fly looked great on the hook, the hair wing didn’t produce much action in the water. It took us the better part of a summer to

figure out how to put more motion into a squirrel-tail wing. The idea to tie the hair wing in the shape of a fan so it would move in the water came from an unlikely source. One day, while at the vise, Al told Gretchen about an interesting-looking, hand-operated cooling fan he had seen in Southeast Asia many years before. The fan featured several squirrel tails lashed together with long palm leaflets. Gretchen thought about it for a minute and then asked if the same idea would work for tying the hair wing on a fly? Could we, she wondered, make the wing on a Spruce Fly using small bunches of squirrel tail fibers? That was the solution to our problem, and over the years we have created other patterns using this technique.

A Lot of Possibilities

Of the five species of squirrels found in the United States, three natural colors are most useful for tying flies: red, black, and gray. Of those three colors, we have more red squirrel tails in our supply cabinet; this is probably because it’s the color of the little cuties living in our back yard when squirrel season comes around each year. Keep in mind that our tying technique also works using dyed squirrel tails, so you have a lot of possibilities for improving older pattern and creating new, fish-catching flies. We’ll demonstrate two different tying methods. In the first method, we’ll use thread to divide and conquer a squirrel-hair wing. As an alternate method, we’ll then use hackle instead of thread. Follow along and see how to increase the action of a hair-wing streamer. In addition to making streamers, squirrel tail hair is great for tying wings on larger dry flies. We will offer two of our favorite methods for using this common ingredient for crafting dry fly wings. If you don’t have any squirrel tails in your fly tying kit, your local fly shop certainly stocks this useful material. If you do not have a nearby fly shop, we bet there are a few squirrels living in your backyard. Al and Gretchen Beatty have contributed many articles to our magazine. They are also busy leading fly tying classes across the country, writing books, and much more. Be sure to visit their website, www.btsflyfishing.com. Al and Gretchen live in Idaho.

W I N T E R 2 0 1 8 | 57

Tying the Squirrel-Tail Spruce Fly Streamer

1 2 3

Place the hook in the vise and start the thread. Rather than using tying thread, we have placed a spool of red floss in the bobbin. Wrap a layer of floss on the back half of the hook shank, and tie on a piece of wire for the rib.

Tie several peacock herls to the hook, leaving enough material protruding from the back to form the tail of the fly. Clip the tail equal to the width of the hook gap.

Start a spool of black thread over the tag end of the red floss, and snip the floss; if you have only one bobbin, tie off the floss, snip, and then switch to the black thread. Wrap the butt ends of the peacock herl up the hook to form the front half of the body. Tie off and clip the excess herl. Counter-wrap the wire rib over both halves of the body. Tie off and cut the surplus piece of wire. Our thread is now hanging in front of the body well back from the hook eye.

4 5

Fold the fibers on a furnace hackle so they are on the same side of the stem. Tie the tip of the feather to the hook, and wrap a wet fly-style collar. Tie off the clip the excess piece of hackle. Clip a small bundle of squirrel tail hairs. Tie the bundle to the hook to form the wing. Adjust the length of the wing so it extends to the end of the tail. This step illustrates the problem: the tight bundle of hair will have little motion when stripped through the water.

Squirrel-Tail Spruce Fly Streamer Hook: 3X-long nymph or streamer hook, sizes 8 to 4. Thread: Black 6/0 (140 denier). Tail: Peacock herls. Abdomen: Red floss. Rib: Fine copper wire. Thorax: Peacock herl. Hackle: Furnace. Wing: Squirrel tail hair.

Squirrel-Tail Charlie

Hook: Regular saltwater hook, size 6 or 4. Thread: Red 3/0 (210 denier). Eyes: Dumbbell or bead chain. Body: Krystal Flash, red or color of your choice. Wing: Squirrel tail hair. Wing topping: White calftail.

For this photograph, Al switched to a brightly colored thread so you can better see the process, but when tying your flies, use black thread; regardless of the color, the tying steps are identical. It’s important to anchor the thread as far forward on the hook as possible; we’ll call this position the “pull point.” Separate the wing into fourths, and hold the top three-quarters up while making one thread wrap between the two layers. In the photo, Al is pulling the thread forward and preparing to anchor it at the pull point. The amount of tension Al places on the loop of thread determines the width of the separation in the wing.

Make two thread wraps between each layer of hair; the wing looks wild, but in the water, it’s dynamite! Note: It’s important to also adjust the squirrel hair side-to-side because this tying method creates a wing with width as well as height. If you’ve followed along so far, you must know how to wrap a neat head, so we’ll let you complete your fly and snip the thread. In the following steps, we’ll show you how to perform the same technique using the hackle.

In this example, Al is tying a steelhead version of the Spruce Streamer. He has tied the tail and body, added a very small bundle of squirrel tail fibers for the first part of the wing, tied on a folded hackle, and made one wrap of hackle. He keeps the wrapped feather in place using only one thread wrap. Next, he adds a second very small bundle of squirrel tail hair to the wing.

9 10

Make another wrap of hackle, and tie on a third, smaller bunch of squirrel hair; if you wish, you may repeat this step and add a fourth layer of hair. Finally, wrap a neat head, and whip-finish and snip the thread. Here are our two flies. The pattern we tied using the featherloop method (on the left) looks good and has a smaller head. Try both techniques and see which one you prefer. The wings of both flies will have more action in the water.

Squirrel-Tail Fan-Wing Parachute Adams Hook: 1X-long dry fly hook, sizes 18 to 10. Thread: Gray 6/0 (140 denier). Tail: Red squirrel tail hair mixed with grizzly hackle fibers. Parachute wing: Squirrel tail hair. Body: Gray muskrat dubbing. Hackle: Grizzly and brown. Comments: If you want to go crazy with the fanned wings, do it with a parachute post! 58 | W W W . F L Y T Y E R . C O M

10 W I N T E R 2 0 1 8 | 59

How to Make a quirrel ail ayfly

If you have some experience at the vise, you’ll be able to make this pattern. First, start the thread on the hook, wrap a layer of thread on the shank, and tie on the tail. Next, clip, clean, and stack a small bunch of deer hair; these are also fairly basic tying skills. Tie on and spin the deer hair behind the hook eye.

Spin a pinch of dubbing on the thread and wrap it over the back half of the hook shank to form the body of the fly. Next, clip a clump of squirrel hair from the tail. Even the tips of the hair in a hair stacker, and tie the bundle of material to the top of the hook to form a Trude-style wing.

1 2

Now we’ll learn the point of this exercise: how to make a fanned dry fly wing using the anchor-loop tying method. In this photo, we stood the hair up in four separate bunches just like when we tied the wing on the Spruce Fly. We applied more tension to the thread because the wing of this dry fly is more perpendicular to the hook shank than it was for the streamer wing.

Fold the deer back to form a bullet-shaped head; in our article about tying bullet heads that appeared in the Autumn 2018 issue of Fly Tyer, we folded back the material using a small piece of tubing. Next, wrap a neat thread collar, whip-finish, and snip.

quirrel

ail Bullet

ead

Hook: 1X-long dry fly hook, sizes 18 to 8. Thread: Brown 6/0 (140 denier). Head: Deer hair. Tail: Squirrel tail hair. Body: Hare’s-ear dubbing. Wing: Squirrel tail hair. Hackle: Deer hair.

quirrel

ail an

ing

Hook: 1X-long dry fly hook, sizes 18 to 10. Thread: Brown 6/0 (140 denier). Tail: Squirrel tail hair. Wings: Squirrel tail hair. Body: Hare’s-ear dubbing. Hackle: Grizzly and brown.

ere

ayfly

ulff

3 4

Squirrel-Tail Sofa Pillow

Hook: 3X-long dry fly hook, sizes 10 to 6. Thread: Red or orange 6/0 (140 denier). Tail: Red yarn or dyed calftail. Body: Red or orange floss. Wings: Squirrel tail hair. Hackle: Brown.

60 | W W W . F L Y T Y E R . C O M

Tying the SquirrelTail Compara-dun

Start the thread on the hook. Wrap a thread base over the back two-thirds of the shank. Tie on a squirrel-hair tail. The length of the tail equals the overall length of the hook. Notice that the butt end of the tail extends only to the middle of the hook shank; we are leaving plenty of room to tie on the wing.

2 3

4 5

Select, clean, and stack a small bunch of squirrel tail hair. Tie the hair to the top of the hook with the tips pointing forward; the finished wing should equal the length of the hook shank. Clip the butt end of the wing at an angle. Push the bundle of hair up and perpendicular to the hook shank using your thumbnail. Select, clean, and stack another small bundle of squirrel tail hair. Tie it tight against the front of the first bunch on the near side of the hook. Notice Al has made two loose thread wraps around this bundle and is preparing to trim the butt end even with the bottom of the hook shank. Tighten the thread. Tightening thread causes the second bundle of hair to slide from the side to the top of the hook. Firmly anchor this bunch of hair to the fly using several firm thread wraps. Here is a detailed photo of the two bunches of hair pressing together. The opposing force of the two bundles positions the wing straight up and perpendicular to the hook shank.

Fan the wing across the top of the fly using your fingers. Apply a drop of superglue to the base of the wing.

Apply a body of dubbing. Whip-finish and snip the thread. Check the fly from the front to make sure the wing fans evenly across the top of the hook.

Squirrel-Tail Compara-dun

Hook: 1X-long dry fly hook, sizes 18 to 12. Thread: Gray 6/0 (140 denier). Tail: Squirrel tail hair. Body: Gray muskrat dubbing. Wing: Squirrel tail hair.

6 7

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TRAVELING TIER

by Jerry Darkes

At 75 years old, Jerry Regan still ties commercially and attends numerous fly fishing shows. His patterns have withstood the test of time— and fish!

TIE ONE ON—GRAYLING, MICHIGAN, STYLE Often overlooked for their historic importance, the AuSable River and nearby streams have played a key role in the development of fly fishing and tying. PHOTOGRAPHY BY PORTER HOUSE

62 | W W W . F L Y T Y E R . C O M

he history of American fly fishing has been well documented. The Catskill, Adirondack, and Pocono regions played prominent roles in the early development of our sport. There is another area that has also been a focal point for fly fishing and tying since the late 1800s, and it is going strong today. Grayling, Michigan, has had a profound impact fly fishing. Numerous contributions in fly design, trout conservation, and more have come from this region. Today, although often overshadowed by western trout fisheries, Grayling continues to influence fly fishing everywhere.

What’s in a Name?

The town of Grayling was named for the now-extinct Michigan grayling, a species of fish that once thrived in several local rivers including the AuSable and Manistee. A huge underwater aquifer supplied a steady stream of pure cold water, and the white pine forest covering the area provided abundant shade to keep the rivers cool. When the railroads reached Northern Michigan in the 1870s, prominent eastern American fly fishers, including Thaddeus Norris and Theodore Gordon, traveled to the Wolverine State to fish for these grayling. There are descriptions of anglers enjoying immense catches of fish. An angler might use three or four wet flies at a time—fishing with more than one fly is nothing new—and it was common to hook a fish on each fly. Grayling were so abundant, in fact, that they even supported a fly-caught commercial fishery. Unfortunately, this era was short lived. As the pine forests were logged, several things happened. With the loss of the tree canopy, river waters warmed beyond the tolerance of the fish. Logs driven downriver during the high water in spring wiped out most of the suitable spawning habitat. In combination with overfishing, the grayling could not survive. Around 1910, these fish became extinct. Oddly enough, brook trout were not native to the rivers around Grayling. These fish were introduced into the Manistee

Jerry Regan’s Spinners Jerry Regan has developed a great family of spinner imitations. They are lifelike, durable, and catch fish. It’s hard to believe, but he ties his intricate patterns without the aid of a bobbin. RUSTY SPINNER

Hook: 2X-long dry fly hook, size 14 or 12. Thread: Dark brown 6/0 (140 denier). Tail: Ring-necked pheasant tail fibers or black moose hair. Body: Rusty brown deer hair. Wings: Dun hen hackle tips. Hackle: Brown and grizzly.

FEMALE HENDRICKSON SPINNER

Hook: Mustad 94840, size 14. Thread: Reddish brown 6/0 (140 denier). Egg sac: Yellow polypropylene yarn. Tail and wing post: Dark moose body hairs. The butt ends of the hair form the wing post. Body: Turkey tail feather fibers. Add the butt ends to the wing post. Wings: Dun hen hackle tips. Hackle: Dun.

PALE EVENING DUN/SULFUR SPINNER

Hook: Mustad 94840, size 16 or 14. Thread: Yellow 6/0 (140 denier). Tail: Dun hackle fibers. Tail and wing post: Deer body hair parallel to the hook. The butt ends of the hair form the wing post. Wings: Dun hen hackle tips. Hackle: Dun.

BROWN DRAKE SPINNER

Hook: Mustad 9672, size 10. Thread: Dark brown 3/0 (210 denier). Tail: Ring-necked pheasant tail fibers. Body and wing post: Yellow polypropylene and deer hair. The butt ends of the hair form the wing post. Wings: Dun hen hackle tips. Hackle: Brown.

W I N T E R 2 0 1 8 | 63

HEX SPINNER

Hook: Mustad 9672, size 6. Thread: Yellow 3/0 (210 denier). Tail: Pheasant tail fibers. Body and wing post: Deer hair. The butt ends of the hair form the wing post. Wings: Grizzly or dun hen hackle tips. Hackle: Brown. Notes: The same pattern tied in a size 8 works well during the day when the Hex hatch is on.

BAT FLY

Hook: Mustad 94840, size 14. Thread: Gray 6/0 (140 denier). Tail: Dun hackle fibers. Body: Deer hair. The butt ends of the hair form the wing post. Wings: Dun hen hackle tips. Hackle: Dun. Notes: This pattern imitates several different species of Baetisca mayfly spinners.

GRAY DRAKE SPINNER

Hook: Mustad 9672, size 10. Thread: Green 3/0 (210 denier). Tail: Moose body hairs. Body: Dun deer. The butt ends of the hair form the wing post. Wings: Dun hen hackle tips. Hackle: Yellow grizzly and grizzly.

TRAVELING TIER

CONTINUED

Tying a Regan Spinner

1 2

Place the hook in the vise and start the thread. Cover the shank with a layer of thread.

Tie on a half-dozen pheasant tail fibers at the end of the hook shank for the tail. The tail extends 1 to 1Â˝ times the length of the hook shank. Wrap over the butt ends of the fibers halfway up the shank and trim the surplus.

Cut a bunch of natural deer body hair about the diameter of a pencil. The hair should be longer than the hook shank. Clean out any short hairs and underfur. Even the tips of the hair by hand or using a hair stacker. Tie the hair to the hook with the tips extending slightly past the end of the shank. Spiral-wrap the thread to the end of the shank, and then spiral-wrap the thread forward.

Pull the butt ends of the deer hair straight up to form the wing post. Wrap the thread in front of and around the base of the hair to hold the post upright.

Select two dry fly hackles with fibers measuring twice the width of the gap. Tie the hackles on in front of the post and extending to the rear of the fly with the shiny sides facing up.

6 7

Select two hen hackles for the wings of the fly. Place the feathers together and even up the tips.

Separate the fibers of the hen hackles so the wings will equal the length of the hook shank. (On a larger pattern, such as size 8 or 6, make the wings slightly shorter to minimize the fly from spinning when casting.) Tie on the two feathers together in front of the parachute post with the shiny sides facing up.

Trim the butt ends of the hen hackles. Separate the hackles to form a wing on each side of the hook shank. Secure the wings using figure-eight wraps.

Wrap both hackles at the same time around the post. Start at the top of the thread wraps on the post, and then wrap the hackles down toward the body. Make four to six wraps of hackle.

Tie off the hackle and clip the excess. Wrap a neat thread head, whip-finish, and snip. Here we see our spinner from the troutâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s point of view.

Clip the post to length, and your spinner is ready for fishing.

64 | W W W . F L Y T Y E R . C O M

W I N T E R 2 0 1 8 | 65

TRAVELING TIER

CONTINUED

River system in the mid-1870s and the AuSable in the mid-1880s. They were an acceptable replacement for the diminishing grayling and were caught using the same type of equipment and multi-fly rigs. Eventually, the brook trout suffered from the same problems that eliminated the grayling—loss of habitat, logging, and overfishing. Fishing for brook trout in Michigan was closed from 1925 to 1933.

Try, Try Again

Rainbow trout were first introduced in Michigan in 1873 at the mouth of the AuSable River near Oscoda, and more stockings of these fish took place around the state. Many of these trout were of an anadromous strain and they ventured into Lake Michigan and Lake Huron; these fish were eventually labeled as steelhead. Today, rainbow trout are not found in significant numbers in the waters around Grayling. Brown trout were first introduced in the United States in Michigan’s Baldwin River, a tributary to Pere Marquette River, in 1884. They were then planted in the AuSable in 1889. Being more difficult to catch, and more tolerant of warmer water and sediment, brown trout slowly became the dominant fish in these systems. Also, since brown trout spawn in the fall, they were less affected by springtime log drives. As equipment and fly patterns became more sophisticated, anglers slowly transitioned their fishing from brook trout to brown trout. Catskill-style patterns came into the area and local guides began incorporating them into their fishing. Anglers gradually learned to catch the wary brown trout, and by the 1920s, it was the primary trout species in Michigan’s Lower Peninsula.

A Time of Fly Pattern Development and Tying Innovation

Catskill-style dry flies worked well on the waters around Grayling. Some early AuSable patterns, such as John Stefan’s Cabin Coachman and Ernie Borcher’s Drake series, reflect this style of tying, and these flies still catch fish today. Nearby on the Boardman River, Len Halladay conceived the Adams dry fly, perhaps the most well-

known dry fly in existence. Even in its current form, the standard Adams echoes the Catskill style of tying. There were a few problems for continuation of the Catskill designs. First, the materials for these flies were hard to get. It was difficult to find quality ingredients in Northern Michigan in the 1920s. When the Depression hit, there was little money to buy anything, and tiers made do with what they had on hand, such as strands of wool and silk and hackle from barnyard chickens. Furs and hair came from animals harvested in the area by hunting and trapping. Throughout the 1930s and 1940s, tiers created several techniques and patterns we still use today. Around 1930, William Avery Brush developed a style of wrapping hackle around a wing post; today we call this the “parachute” method of tying. Brush even patented a series of hooks made with posts built in for wrapping hackle. Clarence Roberts may have been one of the first to tie deer hair parallel to the hook shank for making a body, and white belly hair for a wing post. The deer-hair body provides both a good silhouette and flotation. The white deer hair provides both a post for wrapping hackle and increased visibility on the water. With a change of hook sizes, his Yellow Drake imitates a number of light-colored Michigan mayflies. Ann Schweigert’s Stickfly uses deer hair for the tail, back, and head of the pattern to provide flotation. This simple fly likely imitates various emerging insects. Tie it in different sizes and with various colors of dubbing to imitate a wide range of bugs. Earl Madsen was a true innovator and developed a number of wet and dry flies. He popularized the well-known Michigan Skunk. This was likely the first fly to incorporate rubber legs. Madsen collected strings of white rubber from various sources, such as truck seats, to tie his Skunk. Madsen is also well known for his Buzz Saw streamer. This is one of the first streamers designed with a rear stinger hook. Madsen receives dual credit, with Clarence Roberts, for being one of the first tiers to place deer hair parallel to the hook shank and use white deer belly hair as a parachute hackle post. Many other guides, anglers, and tiers 66 | W W W . F L Y T Y E R . C O M

contributed to the fly tying and fishing of this region. Art Winnie, with his Joe’s Hopper, brought us one of the earliest terrestrial-specific flies. Griffith’s Gnat, another pattern found in every trout angler’s fly box, was named after the founding father of Trout Unlimited, the great conservation organization born on the banks of the AuSable River.

Going Strong Today

There are still a few people alive who provide a direct connection to the golden age of fly tying in the Grayling area. Jerry Regan is a retired barber from Swartz Creek, Michigan, and at 75 years old, he is still fishing and tying. He grew up in the region and has owned a house on the AuSable River for many decades. Regan met a number of the tiers and guides I have mentioned. He is a font of information about the river and its history. Regan worked as a guide on the AuSable and tied flies commercially to supplement his barbering income. He still ties for Grayling-area shops, and you’ll see him at local shows and events, keeping the fly tying traditions of the region alive. You will find Regan wearing an apron and with a green mat across his lap covered with trimmings of deer hair and hackle. He sits at his table surrounded by several shadow boxes showing the various patterns that have come out of the area. Each fly is labeled with the pattern’s name and the creator or tier. Regan may be best known for his series of spinner imitations. These flies went through several stages of development, and were finalized in the late 1980s after thorough testing by guides and anglers. They have been available in Grayling fly shops for nearly 40 years. He developed a unique way to tie on the hackle and wings, creating a parachute-style fly that led to his spinners. A body is deer hair tied parallel to the hook shank with the color of the thread influencing the final color of the body. Excess body hair is posted up at a 90-degree angle to form the wing post. This gives the wing visibility on the surface, even in the fading light of an evening spinner fall. The crossing thread wraps securing the body

make the fly very durable. It is a great imitation of a spinner, and when tied properly, it lasts for multiple fish. Regan dyes most of his materials. He primarily uses Danville threads, and ties without a bobbin. Years of experience have taught him exactly how much tension to use to form the deer-hair bodies on his flies. He is also very particular about the deer hair he uses for the bodies; once again, years of experience help him pick the proper hair for a given pattern and size. Regan admits his patterns are not always the first choice when anglers buy flies; they often select newer flies tied with modern synthetics, but his patterns are usually the “last resort” that catches stubborn fish when they have refused all other offerings. Regan’s flies have stood the test of time and continue catching trout around Grayling and beyond. He still ties commercially and is keeping the Grayling tying tradition alive, one fly at a time. So much fly fishing and tying history comes from this part of the country that we can’t cover it all. Many anglers and tiers either came from or spent time in this part of Michigan. Ernie Schweibert, Rusty Gates, Bob Linsenman, Carl Richards, and Doug Swisher helped lay the foundations of modern fly fishing. Kelly Galloup, Russ Maddin, Jac Ford, and Alex Lafkas, plus others, have Michigan roots and are keeping the tradition of fly fishing innovation moving forward. Lyle Dickerson, Morris Kushner, and Paul Young made some of the finest bamboo fly rods, and Bob Summers continues splitting cane and making rods. Finally, we have to remember that Trout Unlimited was formed on the banks of the AuSable River more than half a century ago. Tie some flies from this area and try them on your local waters; I know they will catch fish. Or visit Michigan and enjoy some memorable angling. Jerry Darkes is well known for his knowledge of fishing in the Great Lakes region. His book Fly Fishing the Inland Oceans: An Angler’s Guide to Finding and Catching Fish in the Great Lakes is one of the best on this subject. Jerry lives in Ohio.

ROBERTS YELLOW DRAKE

Hook: Mustad 94831, sizes 20 to 8. Thread: Yellow 6/0 (140 denier). Tail: Ring-necked pheasant tail fibers. Parachute post: White deer hair. Body: Light-colored deer hair. Hackle: Brown.

MADSEN’S SKUNK DRY FLY

Hook: Regular streamer hook, sizes 12 to 8. Thread: Black 8/0 (70 denier). Tail: Gray squirrel tail. Body: Black chenille. Legs: White rubber legs. Wing: Natural or white deer hair. Note: The wet fly version of this pattern is the same but without the wing.

ANN SCHWEIGERT’S STICKFLY

Hook: Mustad 94840, size 12 or 10. Thread: Black 6/0 (140 denier). Body: Gray, black, or yellow dubbing. Top: Light-colored deer hair tied on top of the body to also make the tail and clipped head.

HALLADAY’S ADAMS

Hook: Standard dry fly hook, size 10 or 8. Thread: Black or gray 8/0 (70 denier). Tail: Golden pheasant tippets. Body: Coarse gray wool. Wings: Barred Plymouth Rock hackle tips, tied oversized and 3 /4 spent. Hackle: Barred Plymouth Rock and Rhode Island red. W I N T E R 2 0 1 8 | 67

STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIP, MANAGEMENT AND CIRCULATION (required by Act of August 12, 1970: Section 3685, Title 39, United States Code). 1. Fly Tyer 2. (ISSN: 1082-1309) 3. Filing date: 10/1/18. 4. Issue frequency: Spring, Summer, Autumn, Winter. 5. Number of issues published annually:4. 6. The annual subscription price is $21.95. 7. Complete mailing address of known office of publication: MCC Magazines, LLC, PO Box 936, Augusta, GA 30903-0936. Contact person: Kolin Rankin. 8. Complete mailing address of headquarters or general business office of publisher: MCC Magazines, LLC, PO Box 936, Augusta, GA 30903-0936. 9. Full names and complete mailing addresses of publisher, editor, and managing editor. Publisher, John Lunn, PO Box 936, Augusta, GA 30903-0936, Editor, Ben Romans, PO Box 936, Augusta, GA 30903-0936 , Managing Editor, . 10. Owner: MCC Magazines, LLC; Wholly-owned subsidiary of Questo, Inc., W.S. Morris III, , Mary E Morris, W.S. 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Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 26,067. C. Total Print Distribution (Line 15f) + Paid Electronic Copies (Line 16a). Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 27,858. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 26,699. D. Percent Paid (Both Print & Electronic Copies) (16b divided by 16c x 100). Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 97.7%. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 97.6%. I certify that 50% of all distributed copies (electronic and print) are paid above nominal price: Yes. Report circulation on PS Form 3526-X worksheet 17. Publication of statement of ownership will be printed in the Winter 2018 issue of the publication. 18. Signature and title of editor, publisher, business manager, or owner: Scott Ferguson. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanction and civil actions.

READER FAVORITES C O N T I N U E D F R O M PA G E 7 2

DOCâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S DAREDEVIL

Hook: 8X-long streamer hook, sizes 8 to 2. Thread: Red gel spun. Body: Silver holographic Axxel. Belly: White bucktail. Back: Red bucktail. Eyes: 3-D holographic eyes. Reversed-head streamers are nothing new. Carrie Stevens produced a saltwater fly with a reversed head many decades ago, and Keith Fulsher popularized these flies with his book Tying and Fishing the Thunder Creek Series. I tie most of his patterns and added several more, including this one. Dr. Myron T. Weiner Concord, New Hampshire

FOAM FROG

Hook: 3X-long dry fly hook, sizes 8 to 4. Thread: Yellow 6/0 (140 denier). Tail: Chartreuse marabou and strands of Krystal Flash. Body: Green and yellow closed-cell foam colored with permanent markers. Legs: Chartreuse barred rubber legs. I have a couple of tricks when tying this fly. First, cover the hook point to avoid nicking or tearing the foam. Second, place the marabou on top of the shank so the tail comes straight out of the body. Dan Wagner Saint Louis, Missouri

FLY PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVE KLAUSMEYER

68 | W W W . F L Y T Y E R . C O M

HIGHLANDER SPEY

Hook: Mustad SL53UBL, size 2/0. Thread: Black 8/0 (70 denier). Tag: Flat silver tinsel. Tail: Golden pheasant crest and tippet feathers. Butt: Black ostrich herl. Body: Yellow floss and light green SLF Dubbing. Rib: Oval silver tinsel. Hackle: Burned chartreuse goose and yellow schlappen. Wing: Orange, yellow, and green goose shoulder, and orange bronze mallard. This fly is my favorite color scheme. It adds a splash of color among the other Spey patterns in my fly box. Jason Dobbs Conway, Arkansas

LATEX NYMPH

ORANGE FLASH

Hook: Tiemco TMC300, size 5. Thread: Orange 6/0 (140 denier). Tail: Black and orange yarn. Body: Gold Flashabou Accent. Underwing: Pearl Flashabou Accent. Wing: Orange Ice Dubbing and marabou, and black bucktail. Throat: Orange marabou. Flash: Silver Flashabou and gold Accent. This streamer proved itself on Iowa’s muddy creeks. Fishing it on the swing, I caught a lot of brown trout. David Halvorson Northfield, Minnesota

SQUIRMY GRUB

Hook: Mustad 9671, size 10. Thread: Brown or black 6/0 (140 denier). Tail, legs, and antennae: Brown or black biots. Abdomen: Brown or black latex over dubbing. Thorax: Brown or black dubbing. Wing case: Brown or black latex.

Hook: Scud/caddis hook, size 12. Head: Black or black nickel bead. Thread: White 6/0 (140 denier). Body: Neon Squirmy Worm.

I learned to tie this fly in the 1970s reading Poul Jorgen’s fly tying book; my use of latex might be a giveaway. This fly fishes well along the streambed. John Bennick Plattsburgh, New York

The translucent quality of neon Squirmy Worm allows you to alter the color of the fly by changing threads. Fish this pattern with a dead drift. John Randall Racine, Wisconsin

W I N T E R 2 0 1 8 | 69

READER FAVORITES

OH MY GUINEA

PHEASANT BOO BUGGER

I fish this pattern on small lakes throughout the year. Add wraps of wire under the body to fish the fly deeper in the water. Gretchen Dora Telka Indian Land, South Carolina

This fly came about during a fly tying class at Great Feathers Fly Shop in Sparks Glencoe, Maryland. The instructor said hen pheasant marabou is a good material for tying the tail on a Woolly Bugger. When I got home, I tied this fly. I tested it, and it catches trout. Jack Walsh New Britain, Pennsylvania

CDC CADDIS

THE JESTER SHRIMP

This pattern is very effective for catching trout in lakes. It has excellent flotation. Jacques Demers Nicolet, Quebec

The only time I replaced this fly on my leader last spring was when it became chewed beyond recognition. I switched to a fresh copy of the pattern. I fish this fly with an intermediate-sinking line and short strips. Dennis Pelletier Narragansett, Rhode Island

Hook: Mustad 79580, size 8. Thread: Wine 6/0 (140 denier). Tail: Golden pheasant tippet. Body: Pearl Mylar tinsel. Throat: Orange guinea fowl. Sides: Silver Doctor blue guinea fowl. Wing: Chartreuse guinea fowl. Collar: Natural guinea fowl.

Hook: Mustad 9672, sizes 12 to 6. Bead: Copper. Thread: Gray 8/0 (70 denier). Tail: Hen pheasant marabou and strands of root beer Krystal Flash. Body: Dark tan Senyoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Laser Dub. Hackle: Dun Cree saddle hackle.

Hook: Mustad 9672, size 12. Thread: Black 6/0 (140 denier). Tail: Pearl Krystal Flash. Body: Pale yellow dubbing. Back: A loop of brown cul de canard. Collar: Brown cul de canard, mallard flank, and brown partridge.

Hook: Regular saltwater hook, size 1/0 or 2/0. Thread: Fluorescent red 6/0 (140 denier). Tail: Fluorescent pink marabou and pink or pearl Krystal Flash. Body: Pink Glitter Eyelash yarn or Estaz. Belly: White bucktail. Wing: Green Flashabou.

70 | W W W . F L Y T Y E R . C O M

CARIBOU MUDDLER

FIVE MILE WALK

I came up with this dressing by accident. Interestingly, size 10 seems to be the only size that catches trout. Warren Singer Rome, Pennsylvania

I have been using purple in my flies for more than 15 years. I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know if the fish really see purple or if the refraction of the light changes the color in the water. What I do know is many species of fish love purple. Bill Fett Cascade, Montana

DRAGON TAIL

SONIC MAYFLY SPINNER

You can substitute a white, purple, or black Dragon Tail. I fish the beaches here in Florida for snook, jacks, ladyfish, and in the summer, tarpon. This pattern has been working extremely well. Mr. Roetman Hobe Sound, Florida

This is my generic pattern for matching large mayfly spinners. The hackle helps the fly float, and the splayed wings allow it to land upright. Chris Silvis Midland, Michigan

Hook: 3X- or 4X-long streamer hook, size 10. Thread: Red 6/0 (140 denier). Tag: Gold Mylar tinsel. Body: Fawn-colored dubbing. Rib: Gold Mylar tinsel. Wing: Barred wood duck flank. Collar and head: Caribou hair.

Hook: Dai-Riki 135, size 10. Head: Silver cone. Thread: Black 8/0 (70 denier). Body: Purple Lite Brite dubbing. Legs: Gray Centipede Legs.

Hook: Tiemco TMC600SP, size 1. Thread: White 3/0 (210 denier). Wing: White bucktail, silver Flashabou, and a fluorescent green magnum Dragon Tail. Collar: Pearl Hareline Emulator. Eyes: Montana Fly Company blue steel, 10 millimeter.

Hook: Daichii D1110, size 8 or 6. Thread: Olive 6/0 (140 denier). Tails: Microfibbets. Abdomen: Thread covered with a dark moose mane hair. Wings: DNA Frosty Fish Fiber. Hackle: Grizzly. Thorax: Brown dubbing.

W I N T E R 2 0 1 8 | 71

READER FAVORITES

Recipesn start o ! page 68

Reader Favorites

heck out this great selection of flies. Once again, our readers prove that they are among the best tiers in the world! You play a key role in preparing each and every issue of this magazine. We enjoy hearing your ideas and suggestions for articles, and we always love receiving your flies. Your favorite flies become our favorite flies. Send a copy of your favorite fly, along with the complete pattern recipe and a brief description of how you tie or fish it, to: Reader Favorites, Fly Tyer magazine, P.O. Box 131, Ellsworth, Maine 04605. Good tying and fishing, and send your favorite fly soon!

72 | W W W . F L Y T Y E R . C O M

F I S H PA R T N E RÂ® ANGLING TOURS WWW.FISHPARTNER.COM

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Flying Ant

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Madsenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Skunk

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