DANISH NEWS IN ENGLISH CPHPOST.DK VOL 23 ISSUE 10 3 July - 13 August 2020
Enjoy 24 pages of news, features, opinion, events and community focus. This week’s cover story considers the impact and future of the Wolt delivery service
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HOLIDAY
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WITH HOLIDAY PROSPECTS THIS GOOD, IT’S A WONDER THAT ANY OF US EVER GO ABROAD – WEATHER-PERMITTING OF COURSE It’s just occurred to me that the song ‘Holiday’ isn’t even about a holiday. All these years and I thought Madonna was making a profound commentary on how Americans are content to ‘holiday’ at home and never experience the big wide world outside their borders. Yeah baby: “In every nation/It’s time for the good times/Forget about the bad times/One day to come together” – deep like ‘Imagine’ I always thought. A little vacuous But Madonna’s American, innit! She’s singing about a day off work, not a trip abroad – she would have called it ‘Vacation’ otherwise, which doesn’t quite have the same ring to it. Not sure I like that word. It implies you’ve vacated somewhere, and that somewhere was infested by insects. And then when you vacation somewhere else, you take them all with you.
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The dreaded ticks Sadly, that is increasingly becoming true of ticks. Nordic forests are swarming with them these days, and you really are well advised to check yourself and one another after a long day foresting – if that’s appropriate, as the groin is one of their favourite holiday destinations. Aptly perhaps, they’re particularly pesty in Bornholm, the country’s number one destination for holidaying Danes this year due to the coronavirus. So, while you might have had to make do with Gladsaxe, at least you didn’t get tickborne encephalitis. Urban pursuits Accordingly, we haven’t gone to town about the Sunshine Isle, as it is mostly booked out for July, although you will find some information on pages 18-19 – a two-pager dedicated to some of the best islands to go to.
But before you jump on a ferry, remember that often the best option is staring you in the face and, with that in mind, pages 8-13 are dedicated to culinary and cycling options in the capital. Summer loving For a while it looked like none of us would make it abroad this summer, but as the borders slowly open, our neighbours Sweden and Germany are again teeming with possibilities, and a few countries further afield as well (pages 20-22). But we hope 2020 ends up being the year in which you discover your new favourite travel destination in Denmark. As pages 4-7 and 14-19 demonstrate, there really is so much choice. Weather-permitting, this could be the summer of your dreams.
VISIT DENMARK/ROBIN SKJOLDBORG
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FEATURE
IT’S A WELL TESTED ADAGE THAT NOBODY KNOWS DENMARK BETTER THAN THE NATIVES, ESPECIALLY WHEN THEY’RE AS WELL VERSED AS ESBEN AND TOBIAS. HERE ARE SOME INSIDER TIPS! BY SOMA BIRÓ When you’re confronted with writing a top 10 travel tips piece, you try to make it original. But if I’m being perfectly honest, the creative work angle of this piece emerged almost completely by accident (although the barrel was perhaps scraped a little bit in Nørrebro when it transpired that most recent Danish gangster films have been set in Nordvest). Firm friends to country’s end My editor turned to me because I have more than ten years of Denmark in the rearview mirror. But despite the longevity of my stay, my first instinct was to reach out to some relatives and Danish friends, all of whom have their favourite spots in this small country. So eclectic it’s electric So what follows is an idiosyncratic list with the occasional mainstream suggestion: from the ‘madhouse’ island of Sprogø to the moving desert in northern Jutland, a lot’s in here. You’ll also find eateries and a hotel, as well as the aforementioned creative works that’ll expand your knowledge of the places you’ll discover.
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NØRREBRO’S ANSWER TO PUSHER
lassi, if that’s what you’re looking for).
Since you’re reading this, you’re most likely in Copenhagen – the single greatest place to be in all of Denmark, in my opinion (and I’ve lived or studied in all three main parts of this country).
Where the spirit of ‘69 lives on If you’re down for a literary adventure while discovering Nørrebro, pick up Jesper Stein’s thriller ‘Unrest’: it begins with the discovery of a dead body – a man in a ski mask and military boots – in Assistens Cemetery, on the night after the police cleared Ungdomshuset (the youth house) in 2007.
Not long ago, an anthropologist told me that Denmark is more diverse than it likes to think so. One place, he said, where you can see this quite starkly is Nørrebro. Begin your journey down Dronning Louises Bro (Queen Louise’s Bridge), traversing the Copenhagen Lakes, and let the perception of blonde Denmark unravel… a bit, at least.
There was, in fact, such a house on Jagtvej 69 in Nørrebro: it used to be a meeting point for the underground scene, including for musicians as well as autonomist and leftist political groups.
Make sure you visit the Superkilen urban park (which consists of The Red Square, The Black Market and The Green Park) and Assistens Cemetery, where you can pay your respects to Søren Kirkegaard, Hans Christian Andersen and Niels Bohr, among others.
After the Christian sect Faderhuset acquired the building – the occupants of which refused to be evicted – demonstrations broke out, including a riot on the day the police cleared the building (molotov cocktails flew, Nørrebrogade was blockaded, fires were set and windows were broken).
Nearby eateries include La Neta (authentic Mexican street food served with Mikkeller beer from the famous local microbrewery of the same name), Durum Bar at Nørrebrogade 195, Cicchetti (Italian antipasti restaurant) or Punjab Cuisine (an Indian place where you’ll find some great curry and mango
If you’re taken by the first novel of the former law and crime journalist, you can move on to the second instalment in the Axel Steen series, ‘Die for Me’, about a serial rapist in Nørrebro. (And if you still want more, read the remaining four books in the series in Danish.)
AKTC / KRISTIAN SKEIE
GETTING BY WITH A LITTLE HELP FROM MY (FICTIONAL) FRIENDS
FEATURE
Situated between Zealand and Jutland (Jylland), you probably know that Funen includes Odense, Denmark’s third-largest city and the home of its most famous ever son, Hans Christian Andersen. But no, this is no fairy-tale jaunt with a happy ending. JOHAN WIELAND/FLICKR
Instead, take a train from Zealand to Funen and make sure you look out of the window as you cross the bridge, as you’ll notice a small island with a lighthouse on it just before you glide inland towards Nyborg station. This is your first stop: Sprogø. Where Jussi got his juices If you’re looking for a very Scandinavian adventure, read Jussi Adler Olsen’s crime novel ‘Journal 64’ while discovering Sprogø.
PAGE-TURNER IN SPROGØ It might surprise you to learn that Denmark’s three largest islands – Zealand (Sjælland), the North Jutlandic
Island (Vendsyssel-Thy) and Funen (Fyn) – only account for a third of the country. Nevertheless, they account for a fair proportion of my inclusions here, starting with the latter.
Part of the book is based on what happened on Sprogø between 1923 and 1961 at the infamous girl’s home: it served as a de facto prison for women who were deemed ‘morally corrupt’ (though they often hadn’t done anything criminal). Being labelled promiscuous was enough to land an indefinite sentence on Sprogø – a fate shared by about 500 girls during the time the facility was operational.
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FEATURE
STIG NYGAARD/FLICKR
BINGE-FEST IN NORTH JUTLAND The male counterpart of Sprogø was Livø – an island in the Limfjord in northern Jutland – but you’re better off heading up there to spend some time in the two largest cities of the peninsula: Aarhus (number two in DK) and Aalborg (number four). A friend of mine, Tobias Lausten, visits Aarhus often – his Brazilian girlfriend lives there at the moment – and he told me he’d recommend roaming the hyggelige little streets that surround Aarhus Cathedral (at 93 metres, it’s the longest church in Denmark with space for about 1,200 people, if you’re into that sort of thing – personally, churches have always bored me). To the south of the city, take a tour in Marselisborg Dyrehave (Marselisborg Deer Park), where you’ll find sika and fallow deer as well as some wild boar – these are hedged in though, don’t worry. You can get up close to the deer and feed them if you like (apples and carrots only). Nearby, you’ll find Marselisborg Palace (the summer and Christmas residence of the royal family – when they’re not home, you can explore the palace grounds, including the Queen’s rose garden) and the Infinite Bridge (a circular-shaped ‘bridge’) at Aarhus Bay.
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A plantation to be proud of Moving on from Aarhus, let’s turn to another friend, Esben Madsen. The guy’s a Jutland native, originally from Aabybro, a small town in Jammerbugt Municipality and Esben told me to tell you: visit Svinkløv Klitplantage! Svinkløv Dune Plantation is a 700 hectare (read: very large) area in northwestern Jutland with hiking routes (designated either red or yellow) that will lead you through beaches and forests alike. Mountain-bikers will be happy to hear that there’s a 19 km route laid down just for them. “The area is known for its fishing industry and you can buy fresh fish from markets in Fjerritslev, Thisted and Hanstholm. Klim Strand is also close by, with long white beaches and a huge camping ground for family-friendly camping,” enthused Esben. If you fetch some fish in Hanstholm, check out one of the largest German fortresses built in Denmark during World War II and couple that with a museum dedicated to the German impact on the area. Finally, in Danish fashion, Esben also added a few extra nearby spots because, well, they are hyggelige: Blokhus (home of the Fårup Sommerland themepark, it’s a town of 494 that sees about one million visitors a year) and Hjortdal (has about 130 inhabitants).
Bally good times at Badehotellet Where to stay if you visit Svinkløv Klitplantage? Esben’s answer: unequivocally Svinkløv Badehotel. The hotel has 36 rooms, each somewhat different from the others. There’s no wi-fi, nor are there phones in any of the rooms – this place is meant to be an escape from the digital tumult of your everyday life. The hotel’s restaurant changes the menu on a daily basis and uses ingredients from the surrounding areas to concoct organic dishes. If you’ve learned Danish, you can pick up a copy of the ‘Svinkløv Badehotel mood- and cookbook’ coauthored by Kenneth Toft-Hansen, who won the 2019 Bocuse d’Or – the world chef championship – and runs the hotel with his wife Louise. While you’re there, or before you go, start watching the Danish series ‘Badehotellet’, which takes place in a similar hotel in the first half of the 20th century. It’ll probably teach you a thing or two about Denmark. According to Esben: “A Badehotel (literally ‘bathing hotel’) used to be a holiday location for rich individuals from the city.” Although, beware, you might need to do some research to gain full understanding of all the nuances of the story: “It’s very Danish. You’d have to know Danish history and culture to really understand what’s going on,” Esben told me.
FEATURE
PERIOD PIECE IN SKAGEN
VISIT DENMARK/ ANNE-SOPHIE ROSENVINGE
From Svinkløv Klitplantage, head further up north and discover Råbjerg Mile – a sand dune formed in the 16th century. It’s basically a desert in Denmark. Interestingly enough, it’s a desert on the move: it migrates towards the northeast about 15 metres each year. So hurry up and check it out before it relocates to Sweden. On your way, make a stop in the city of Hjørring and try the restaurant Bryghuset Vendia. One of the best meals I’ve had in my life is their ‘confit de canard’ (duck with sauce jus). After that, a great dessert choice is the ‘creme brulée’ with sorbet on top. Ay-up! As north as it gets! In case you hadn’t figured it out, you’re heading to the absolute tip of Denmark. First, head to Skagen – a small town populated by an array of yellow houses and white sand beaches – and do some shopping and dining. If you’re interested in the Skagen painters – a group that moved to Skagen in 1870 to portray local life, including the hardships faced by fishermen – and other artists whose work was inspired by the place, then visit Skagen’s Museum as well. (The most famous painter of the aforementioned group is PS Krøyer – see the film ‘Marie Krøyer’ for more about his life and marriage).
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Then, keep moving north and continue on until you finally arrive in Grenen. This is where you’ll reach Denmark’s northern edge. Step over it and into the sea – or seas, I should say, as this is where the Baltic Sea and the North Sea meet, literally, crashing into each other from opposite directions in front of your very eyes and below your very feet. END CREDITS Yes. That’s it. If you meet Esben along the way, make sure to ask him what he thinks about Zealand and Copenhagen (hint: he calls it ‘djævleøen’, or ‘the devil’s island’, a nickname born out of a longstanding internal rivalry between those on the peninsula and those on the island). And say hi to him for me. And as Esben mentioned Zealand again, I’ll add a little sidenote from Tobias, born and raised in Frederikssund at the north of the island: if you’re in his home-town, do check out Tarzan Skrænten (the Tarzan Slope), which emerges from Jægerspris forest and drops onto the shore by Roskilde Fjord. He didn’t explain why ... Now get out there and enjoy. And, in the meantime, if you need some more suggestions, visitdenmark.com is always a good place to start.
Visit the King’s Crown this Summer
CAPITAL CYCLING
MAGICAL MYSTERY TOUR: COPENHAGEN ON TWO WHEELS
A 48-HOUR BIKE TRIP STRAIGHT TO THE HEARTBEAT OF THE CAPITAL BY LAUREN BEAUCHAMP
First, find a bike. Remember, unlocked ones tend to be the property of drunks, and borrowing one is a gamble. With the journeys we’ve got planned for you, a recently serviced bicycle is your best bet of getting from A to B. The rental service Donkey Republic takes pride in the condition of all its bicycles and in Copenhagen you’re never more than a short walk away from finding one, as they’re pretty much on every street corner in the capital! Download the app at donkey.bike to locate your nearest bicycle, purchase a two-day rental for 175 kroner (or take advantage of a new offer this summer to lease the bike for a whole week) – helmets for just 25 kroner a day are available to Donkey Republic customers via becopenhagen.dk/#find– and let’s get started!
DAY ONE 9 AM Upscale Østerbro is a family-orientated neighbourhood. Rent a bike in the vicinity of Østerbrogade near the ‘eastend’
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side of the famous Copenhagen Lakes (Søerne). The city’s largest park, Fælledparken, is easy to find and cycling on its paths is legal, making it a great place to practise if you have a few unsure members on your tour. Look up into the sky and you can see Parken Stadium – home to FC Copenhagen and also the national football team. 10 AM Once you’re up to speed, cycle down two of the Lakes to Dronning Louises Bro, the turn-off for Nørrebrogade. Later in the day, the bridge will become a hive of activity – yes, even in this post-Corona Age – with a distinctly hipster vibe, but for now your best bet for quality sight-seeing is the Assistens Kirkegård cemetery, which can be found barely a kilometre away (as ethnic flavours drown out the hipster ethos) on the left. Anybody who was somebody is buried here, including Hans Christian Andersen and Søren Kierkegaard. Once again it’s permissible to cycle, as long as you don’t go too close to the graves ... or the mourners. 11 PM Continue down Nørrebrogade to the end of the cemetery and head left down
CAPITAL CYCLING 2 PM Just west of Fredriksberg is Vesterbro, one of the most popular neighborhoods in Copenhagen. Istedgade is still home to the ‘red light district’ of Copenhagen, but it is ever shrinking under an onslaught of boutiques and vintage shops, stores selling antiques and knick-knacks, galleries and fancy restaurants. It’s time for some serious shopping! 6 PM One block away is Halmtorvet, the road that runs alongside Kødbyen, the city’s Meatpacking District. Greeting you are an array of bars and upscale takeaway restaurants.
Nordre Fasanvej until you reach Frederiksberg Have. Either enjoy a walk through the gardens or head straight to Copenhagen Zoo. While there are some pretty extraordinary animals to see, including two giant pandas that arrived from China in 2019 (one of them recently managed to escape from its enclosure!), the true stars are the buildings. The elephant and hippo enclosures are jaw-dropping, and those pandas weren’t going to arrive unless they had a pad fit for an emperor to live in (and slip out of). 1 PM At Sløjfen 6 grab some lunch at the traditional Danish eatery Café Lindevang. Established in 1938, it is one of the most authentic food spots in Frederiksberg.
8 PM Before the Coronavirus Crisis, Kødbyen used to be a hot spot for nightlife, but this city has been pretty much dead past midnight these past few months. While things are improving slightly, with all the cycling we’ve got planned for you tomorrow, you’ll probably best off finding a wine bar (Alfonsvinbar. com) or craft beer establishment (Fermentoren.com) and having an early night.
DAY TWO 8 AM If you ignored our advice and over-indulged, we’ve got a perfect cure for the mini jungle rumbling inside your head. We command you to head over Langebro, a bridge a mere hop and a skip from where Rådhuspladsen and Tivoli meet. 9 AM Barely before the end of the bridge, take a sharp right down
Fabulous. Fascinating. Fabergé. amalienborg.dk
50% ticket discount 27.06.–09.08.20 The Fabergé Chamber at the Amalienborg Museum
CAPITAL CYCLING
to Islands Brygge and find a spot not covered in broken glass to whip off the improvised cycling gear and jump into the waters blue of Copenhagen Harbour. Technically this is the Baltic, but at the Islands Brygge Harbour Baths heavy netting ensures there’s no danger of nasty intruders – stinging jellyfish are surprisingly common the further you go out to sea. Ask yourself, as you paddle around, how many other capital cities have harbour waters you can legally swim in! 10 AM Take a quick detour east towards Christianhavn, a small area of islands worth driving around. With freetown Christiania a few wheelies away, you won’t be short of sights to see. From the Opera House to the Playhouse just opposite the waterfront, it’s Copenhagen architecture and design at its finest. 11 AM If you’re feeling the vibe and like what you see, then keep pedalling all the way to Refshaleøn where you can try out La Banchina or the food trucks at Reffen for an early lunch. Hands down, this is the best street food market in the country, with easily the most exotic line-up. Jujus serves Jamican jerk, Fuego Street Food dishes up the finest steaks from Argentina, Nomames whisks you off to the streets of Mexico City, and Big Easy packs them in with New Orleans soul food – and that’s just scraping the surface of the Americas. Don’t get us started on Thrilla in Manila’s Filipino bar-
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becue, the panzerotti at PastaLab and the fried flatbreads at Malawa Truck. 12 PM Fuel up, because this is the big one: we’re heading to the wilds of Amager. Not only is it a city district, but it is also the name of the entire island and it contains two other municipalities: Dragør and Tårnby. A third of the 96 sq km island is made up of protected nature areas and we’re taking you to the biggest, Kalvebod Fælled (20 sq km). Heading away from Langebro, we challenge you to lose yourselves in the pretty massive wilderness that is Amager Fælled. As long as you keep a sense of direction, you’ll realise it’s mostly flanked by straight roads leading you to the city’s biggest shopping centre, Field’s.
be the middle of nowhere. Look to the left and you might spot one of the rare planes landing or taking off from Copenhagen Airport. It’s a lot to take in, but in a nutshell it’s the very essence of Copenhagen, and if you’re lucky, you’ll be so alone you’ll feel secluded. 3 PM A timely left will take you into the woods. Don’t venture too far as you don’t want to get lost, but if you’ve got camping gear, there are plenty of places to pitch up, along with municipal fireplaces to cook on, as long as you adhere to the social distancing guidelines.
1 PM Stock up on drinks, and maybe find time for some shopping, but your biggest challenge lies ahead. Continuing in the same direction, head to the Den Røde Port, the gateway to Kalvebod Fælled, and opt for the middle road, Granatvej (where, as the name suggests, they found some unexploded grenades in mid July!).
5 PM On your way back, opt for Bryggebroen as your way back to the mainland – easily found near the corner of Amager Fælled and not further than 1 km from Island Brygge – as it leads almost directly onto the famous Bicycle Snake, a mesmeric elevated, spiraling construction with incredible vistas. Or maybe stop off between bridges for another swim at the Fisketorvet harbour baths and have a quick snack at the shopping centre of the same name.
2 PM Cycling down gloriously flat Granatvej might seem rather innocuous, but don’t forget that you’re in an urban area. Look to the right and you’ll see rather futuristic residential buildings, and perhaps the odd bemused local who still can’t believe they ended up living in what appears to
6 PM You’re back and after two days of exploring you’re finally ready to venture into the city centre. There’s Tivoli, of course, and Nyhavn as well – the first two places tourists tend to visit in Copenhagen. But why follow the crowd when you can hop on a bike and discover so much more.
CAPITAL CUISINE
CAPITAL CUISINE
SOMETHING IN THE WAY IT TASTES …
ATTRACTS ME LIKE NO OTHER LOVER! BY ELLA NAVARRO
This summer, explore the city and treat yourself to some unbelievable foodie experiences. Here’s a list of cool spots you can enjoy to discover what Copenhagen’s food scene is all about. Bon Bon Ice Suddenly we weren’t in Frederiksberg, but the plains of Africa, as earthy, velvety notes, rhythm and bass of course, sang the praises of Bon Bon Ice’s epic ‘Black Vanilla’ flavour. Dyed volcanic dark by the ash of coconut shells rich in antioxidants, this is a treat for all the senses. No wonder Bon Bon Ice has rapidly become everyone’s favourite. From the palate-cleansing mango sorbet to the beautifully aromatic pistachio served on a cone made just minutes earlier, every single flavour oozes creamy Italian sophistication – a testament to the owner’s frequent inspiration trips to the motherland of ice cream. With flavours clearly marked out as suitable for vegans, the glucose-intolerant and those with nut allergies – and updated every day on Instagram – the locale puts you in charge. As regular visitor Martin Bergmann puts
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it: “It’s worth walking the extra distance for homemade ice cream this good.” Andebakkesti 4, Frederiksberg; open MonFri 12:00-21:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-21:00; @ bonbonicedk Avobaren If you are an avocado lover, this is your place in town, as every dish contains a slice of green pleasure. There’s avocado smoothies, salad bowls with avocado, avocado on toast, avocado burgers, and even desserts with avocado, such as their take on banana split. Opt for their popular double avocado on toast or choose a healthy falafel bowl. For drinks, we recommend one of their homemade lemonades – they are a sour-sweet delight! Falkoner Alle 38, Frederiksberg; open Thu-Fri 10:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-17:00; @avobaren Heaps Good Cafe Solely run by a woman from Australia, she mixes her homeland into some delicious breakfast and lunch dishes with a few Danish influences. Adorned quirkily with a variety of ornaments and furniture, it is the cutest cafe you’ll ever see. The food is perfect in every sense, size, price, and taste. Most of their mains come with their delicious sourdough bread, which is freshly baked daily. Try
CAPITAL CUISINE dipped in browned Danish butter, and their latest hit: the double-baked dream cake croissant with the coconut caramel filling and toasted flake exterior – it’s out of this world, and you certainly don’t want to share. Whatever they bring is always a hit. They are constantly reinventing themselves and finding new inspirations. They’ve teamed up with other restaurants and producers to bring us specialties such as grilled sandwiches with kimchi and unique pølsehorns; and they have donuts on Tuesdays. They are open every day of the week and bake everything fresh from the early morning. Pop by and enjoy a taste of paradise. Gammel Kongevej 109, Frederiksberg; open Mon-Sun 08:00-17:00; @hartbageri
the ‘fucking fancy eggs’ laid on top of two slices of bread with a green salad, cheese, and toasted hazelnuts. A recent addition to the menu is the ‘Barack Burrata’. With soft roasted red onion, heirloom tomatoes and an oregano infusion on grilled bread, it is one of the popular at the moment. Whatever you choose, you’ll appreciate the homemade touches and the details in every dish, and that is why we love it heaps. Fensmarkgade 23, Cph N; open Mon-Fri 08:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 09:00-16:00; @HeapsGoodCafe Donuts aplenty Since the beloved Donut Shop closed in 2018, there haven’t been many places especially dedicated to donuts – until now, as they seem to be popping up in every neighbourhood. These circles of dough are popular for their sugary goodness, giving us instant happiness after every mouthful. There’s My Donut Copenhagen (Frederikssundsvej 43, Cph NV; open daily 15:00-21:00; @mydonut-
copenhagen) and Bronuts (Vesterbrogade 37, Cph V; open daily from 10:00; @bronutsdk) – which was in fact founded by one of the stars of reality show ‘Paradise Hotel’ – whose style is to top the donuts with store-bought candies and chocolates: from crunchy Ferreros to Hakuna, M&Ms, Kinder Bueno, Oreo, toffees ... you name it, they’ve got it. They also sell filled and sour-frosted donuts – every day there’s a special, so make sure you check their Instagram. Bronuts also has shops in Aarhus and Åbyhøj, and it is coming soon to Aalborg. The third donut place on our list is Dough Girls (Frederiksborggade 50, open again from mid-July; @ doughgirlsdoughnuts), a shop run by a family of German-Australians: the parents bake the donuts, the daughters run the shop. Located in Nørreport, just a few steps from Dronnes Louises Bro, they bring donuts to a fancy level with creative ideas such as the lamingtons donut, which takes inspiration from a traditional Australian cake, a raspberry Berliner and classic Danish drink. All the donuts are baked fresh every day using organic and the highest quality ingredients. They are top-notch! Hart Bageri Hart Bageri by British baker extraordinaire Richard Hart opened its doors two years ago after an invite from Noma’s head chef René Redzepi. Forget every pastry you’ve ever tried, because once you go to Hart your heart belongs to them forever. Let’s start with their take on the Danish cinnamon roll. Topped with lemon glaze this roll melts in your mouth with crunchy bits of cinnamon caramel – our absolute favourite. Then there’s the cardamom bun made with the same dough as their croissant and
Queen’s Delight This French delicatessen is newly opened, and it is the only shop dedicated solely to eclairs in Copenhagen. A young Romanian couple from Bucharest, with a passion for sweets and especially eclairs, decided to move to the Danish capital to open up their dream shop. Rasia and Sebastián studied the craft and have become the ultimate eclair makers. They are the best eclairs you will ever try – better than the French ones! Made freshly every day early in the morning – passers-by can testify that they never sell second-day eclairs, which is actually their motto. Opposed to the traditional eclairs that tend to be made with a moister dough, Queen’s Delight has its own take on the pastry, which is more crunchy. Add creative flavours such as crunchy hazelnuts, salted caramel and tiramisu, and we’re talking about eclair perfection! Lookout for their monthly flavour. Grønnegade 37, Cph K; open Wed-Fri 11:00-18:00, Sat 12-20:00, Sun 12:00-18:00 or until sold out; @queensdelight.dk Juno the bakery Bakeries like Juno make you love living in the city. Queuing for the loaf is one of those heavenly pleasures in life. You get it warm right from the oven and you barely wait 15 minutes. Their croissant is definitely the very best in town: caramelised, crunchy, buttery, gooey inside – everything you want. Other mouthwatering choices include the hazelnut cream puff, the popular cardamom bun (completely different to Hart’s but more like a Swedish fika), and the pistachio and rose croissant. Juno is always introducing new items and special editions, so make sure you follow them on Instagram to see what’s going on. Although queuing is guaranteed in the mornings, they tend to be well stocked and only risk selling out in the afternoon. Århusgade 48, Cph Ø; open Wed-Sat 07:3018:00, Sun 08:00-15:00; @juno_the_bakery
HOLIDAY Summer 2020
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NORTH ZEALAND BY NATHAN WALMER Just a hop, skip and a jump from the Greater Copenhagen area, north Zealand has much to offer anyone looking to venture out of the city for a day or two, or find an idyllic holiday spot.
DAY TRIPPER:
A QUICK-STEP FROM THE CAPITAL VISITNORDSJÆLLAND/DANIEL OVERBECK
The region has been a favourite escape for Danish royalty for generations and is still frequented by the queen of Denmark today – and for good reason. Beyond the Riviera While it is perhaps best known for its stunning coastline, the ‘Danish Riviera’, there are also fantastic sites of historical significance, as well as prominent art collections. Catering to both the thrill-seeking and those in need of relaxation, there’s more than enough to satisfy tourists of all tastes and stripes.
Hamlet’s home The imposing stronghold of Kronborg Castle in the city of Helsingør was immortalised as the setting for Shakespeare’s ‘Hamlet’. Overlooking its strategically important view since the 1420s, some 6.5 km to Sweden, it has been destroyed by fire, captured by the enemy and enjoyed several reincarnations. The castle and its grounds are open to tour year-round, and in the summer live performances of ‘Hamlet Live’ are held as well as the Shakespeare Festival.
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In the harbour of Hundested Slightly off the beaten path is the harbour town of Hundested. Located at the entrances to both Isefjord and Roskilde Fjord, it has a bustling waterfront featuring modern restaurants, breweries, art workshops and fantastic ice cream parlours. A popular site for wind and kite surfing, make sure you visit Liseleje Beach, which is considered one of Denmark’s finest. History buffs are well served by the scenic walk that takes in gorgeous views and the home of legendary polar explorer Knud Rasmussen. Let loose at Louisiana The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art at Humlebaek is very much deserving of being Denmark’s most visited museum. Elegantly built into the coastal landscape, it showcases the works of contemporary Danish and international artists with both permanent and rotating exhibitions. It is easy to spend a whole day simply wandering its expansive grounds whilst taking in the spectacular view of the Øresund – and that’s without factoring in its immersive, thoughtprovoking, mind-bending and bizarre modern art!
LOUISIANA MUSEUM OF MODERN ART/ ULRIK JANTZEN
Denmark’s Versailles One of Denmark’s most impressive castles is Frederiksborg Castle in Hillerød – the largest Renaissance castle in Scandinavia. Its baroque palace gardens and grandeur have earned it the nickname ‘the Versailles of Denmark’. It was home to royal families for nearly 100 years after its completion in the 1600s. Frederiksborg is open every day throughout the year to visitors, with opening hours varying between winter-spring and summer-autumn.
Historic Helsingør This historic city of Helsingør has been revamped over the years into a dynamic hub for festivals and performing arts as well as outstanding food at its shipyard Street Food Market and restaurant scene. For a look at Denmark’s seafaring past, head over to the National Maritime Museum in the old dry docks – an architectural wonder in and of itself. And then unwind at both indoor and outdoor spas .
VISIT DENMARK/MARK GRAY
Daisy’s deluxe den North Zealand is a popular place for posh vacation homes, and there are arguably none grander than the historic Fredensborg Palace, where Queen Margrethe typically resides in the spring and autumn. ‘The Palace of Peace’ often plays host to foreign dignitaries and important royal events. In July and the first week of August, visitors can take a guided tour to visit parts of the palace, while its magnificent surrounding gardens are open year-round to the public.
SIX SHORT SOJOURNS TO CONSIDER NORTH OF COPENHAGEN THAT CAN EASILY BECOME WEEK-LONG
SOUTH ZEALAND
TICKET TO RIDE: RINGSTED, RØDBYHAVN AND ROSTOCK TOO
FACEBOOK/ CAMP ADVENTURE
IT MAY BE THE COUNTRY’S BEST CONNECTED REGION, BUT THERE ARE PLENTY MORE REASONS TO STAY VISIT DENMARK/NICLAS JESSEN
with travel options: from heading west to Funen to opting south to Møn and Falster. The latter, of course, provides the ultimate escape route as it leads on to Lolland and its southerly port of Gedser, which provides a regular ferry service to Rostock in northern Germany. Denmark’s Eiffel Tower The newly-erected Camp Adventure is ideal for all ages. A 3.2km trek along a wooden boardwalk takes you through an enchanted forest setting to and from the Forest Tower, where a large-scale spiralling walkway takes you to the top of an architectural wonder. Some 95 metres above sea level and overlooking the forest canopy, the views are stupendous. On the way in, it’s possible to book Junior into the extensive ten-course climbing park, where tricky obstacles and zip line exultation await in abundance.
BY AMBIKA VENKATESH Just about an hour’s drive from central Copenhagen, the south of Zealand has numerous activities and places to visit over the summer period. It offers a wide range of activities, from museums and geocenters, to castles, hiking trails, and even a UNESCO world heritage site. Escape routes It’s also an area of Denmark teeming
Cretaceously speaking There’s more to the Stevns Klint UNESCO World Heritage Centre than its picture perfect chalk cliffs and the 17 km coastline trek and bragging rights that come with its completion. The area was marked out by UNESCO in 2014 because in amongst its cliffs is perhaps one of the best exposed Cretaceous-Tertiary boundaries in the world – the closest we’ve got to documentary evidence of the meteor that led to the extinction of the dinosaurs. Unlike all the big meteors since that fateful day 65.5 millions years ago, this is an attraction you cannot miss! Bunkering down It’s funny to think that just 30 years ago
there was barely 800 km of uninterrupted water between the southeastern coast of Denmark and the Soviet Union (modern day Lithuania). Thus, when Stevensfortet was built on the Stevens Klint cliffs, the fort was very much located on the very frontline of defence during the Cold War. Today it is a museum complete with 1.7 km of secretive corridors carved out of the limestone of the cliffs, which were built to withstand the fallout of a nuclear war. Make sure you take the guided tour 18 metres below ground level to check out the underground bunkers. Fossil finding in Faxe Some 63 million years ago, the Faxe Limestone Quarry was completely covered by water, and today you can still find remnants of this period when you visit. At the Geomuseum of Faxe, you can borrow a hammer and chisel and go hunting for fossils hidden within the limestone. The geomuseum also offers guided fossil hunts. The limestone quarry is often used in films and, because of the special lighting and the clear blue waters, the limestone quarry is also a popular destination for professional photoshoots. Fairy-tale fortress The beautiful castle in South Zealand built over 600 years ago offers a fairytale experience for all. Take the tour around Gavnø Castle, where among other things, you will find Scandinavia’s most colourful church room in the castle chapel. Not only can you visit the castle, but also the park, the church, the brewery and the Go Fly courses. Hotel of hygge Built back in the 1800s, Hotel Frederiksminde has since been restored in its original romantic style. You must go, even if only to sample the view from its Michelin star restaurant – it is truly breathtaking. Better still, stay the night. Surrounded by its own forest, Hotel Frederiksminde oversees Præstø Fjord – upon entering the hotel you’ll quickly understand the Danish ‘hygge’ that everyone is constantly talking about. Tale of the trail The Camøno, also known as ‘the kingdom’s friendliest hiking trail’, extends over 175 km across Møn, Bogø and Nyord. You pass through the area’s beautiful scenery, along breathtaking coastlines, through cosy little villages and past several breathtaking sights. This trail was created in 2016 and is well known by most hikers. This trail is suitable for families, friends and for skilled hikers.
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WEST COAST OF DENMARK BY VALMIRA GJONI Boasting enormous white beaches, often interrupted by grass-crowned sand dunes, the extraordinary beauty of the west coastline of Jutland’s peninsula is striking.
THE LONG AND WINDING SHORE: YOU’LL BE COMING BACK FOR MORE
RIBE VIKING MUSEUM
Overlooking the strong surf of the North Sea, the mostly open area offers ample trails for nature lovers and wildlife enthusiasts to explore. An extraordinary line-up From the south to the north, west Jutland’s shoreline has more than enough to keep you entertained for days. From the one-of-a-kind Wadden Sea National Park and ‘festival island’ of Fanø, to the culinary fare of the beach town of Henne and historic settlements of Ringkobing, Ribe and Hvide Sande, this is one journey you won’t regret taking.
Country’s oldest town More than 1,300 years old, Denmark’s oldest town, Ribe, has a fascinating medieval past as an important trading centre that brought merchants from western Europe into contact with Scandinavia. Walking along cobble-stoned narrow streets lined with well-preserved houses, it feels as if time has stood still in Ribe. No visit is complete without a bit of shopping in and around the Viking marketplace – the very point where the longboats would leave to trade and slay a thousand years ago – which each May hosts the largest crafts market of that era in Denmark. The island of festivals Despite its size and small population, the island is a popular destination as several festivals take place during the course of the year, including a seal safari, knitting festival, international kite meeting, oyster festival and international dragon-
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fly festival, as well as an international golf tournament, Fanø Golfuger. History buffs will be drawn to the Atlantic Wall, a huge defensive system built by Germans during WWII to prevent an invasion from western allies, and the 300 bunkers still along its western coastline. While watersports fans will love its broad sandy beaches, which are perfect for all kinds of activities.
NATIONALPARK VADEHAVET
Denmark’s inner beauty Begin your journey at the Wadden Sea National Park, which in 2014 was added to UNESCO’s World Heritage List. Extending along 500 km of coastline in the Netherlands, Germany, and Denmark, this unique nature reserve is one of the world’s largest tidal flats. The best way to explore the area is either a combination of hiking and island-hopping or via two wheels, as it includes one of the longest bike trails in the world: the North Sea Cycle Route. As well as the wildlife, the ancient natural scenery, shaped by the wind and sea over millions of years, hides tales of woe in its hazardous shallows as many seamen have lost their lives in shipwrecks in areas such as Horns Rev – the Devil’s Horn.
(ENCOUNTER WILDNESS AND WINDSWEPT NATURAL BEAUTY ALONG DENMARK’S MOST WESTERLY COASTLINE)
Stars and strand Notable for its white sandy beaches, shaded dunes, and trails for hiking and wildlife viewing, Henne Strand was listed by CNN as one of the best places in Europe to visit in 2019. If you feel like splashing out on land as well as at sea, check out Henne Kirkeby, a two-star Michelin restaurant that has been serving food since 1790. Hygge dialled to eleven In the middle of the Holmsland Klit (Holmsland Dune), a narrow ribbon of sand formed by the wind and tides that separates Ringkøbing Fjord from the North Sea, is the harbour town of Hvide Sande. Turn the hygge dial up to eleven as it doesn’t get much better than eating fresh fish hooked in nearby Ringkøbing Fjord, smoked or not, on rye bread with a cold beer in your free hand. The picturesque scenery of an endless horizon coupled with the impressive sand dunes and heather-covered hills leave you with no other choice than to just belong to the moment. Gateway to your palate At the northern end of the Holmsland Klit, you’ll find the small town of Søndervig. Nicknamed ‘the gateway to the North Sea’, this tiny town has been a
popular holiday destination since 1800. On top of its stunning, wide white beaches, it offers epic culinary experiences. Top tip: find a farm-shop that has its own kitchen and go wild on the fresh ingredients and local specialities. Candy capital Heading inland in west Jutland will bring you to the oldest town in the area, Ringkøbing, which is famed for its distinctive red-brick houses. While this idyllic town, which is often referred to as west Jutland’s little capital, was founded in the 13th century, its name actually means ‘the market town near Rindum’, a nearby village with settlements dating back to the 6th century. A firm upholder of traditions, Ringkøbing has for centuries been well known for its production of naturallyflavoured, hand-made candies, called ‘bolcher’.
FUNEN
MAGPIE FLY! GEMS APLENTY ON STORYTELLER’S HOME ISLE
VISIT DENMARK/MICHAEL FIUKOWSKI & SARAH MORITZ
ODENSE AND FUNEN HAVE A WEALTH OF OPPORTUNITY, SO KEEP THOSE PERISHING BIRDS AWAY BY ANNA MARYAM SMITH Despite our slightly limited summer travel choices, this is a great chance to explore more of the country we call home. In particular, the region of Funen has lots of awesome activities to do and places to go. Best known for its main city Odense, the home-town of Hans Christian Andersen, the region has an almost magical quality.
VISIT DENMARK/KIM WYON
A short journey away Located to the west of Zealand, it is a very manageable distance to travel for most Copenhageners Whether you are into staying in nice hotels and spas, or going on hikes and exploring, there is something for everyone. Here are six diverse summer options for you or your family to experience in Funen.
VISIT DENMARK/KIM WYON
Founded with magpies! Upon the 75th anniversary of Odense Zoo’s foundation in 1930, the humble beginnings of the establishment were recalled with much amusement. Apparently it started life with just two apes, a deer, a mule, several guinea pigs, two peacocks and an assembly of magpies. Magpies! With their reputation for pilfery, it could have all ended before it started. Today it boasts nearly 150 species and just short of a half million visitors a year. Make sure you check out ‘Oceanium’, a section dedicated to South
American animals, from the Amazon Rainforest to Antarctica. Birth of a maestro Visit the world renowned author’s birthplace at the Hans Christian Andersen Museum in Odense. As Denmark’s third largest city, there are also lots of other things to do if you wish to make it a day excursion. The museum also provides an opportunity to look into the history of the area as well as the conservation. Going down a storm The Arkaden street food market in the centre of Odense isn’t bad, but experience has taught us to be suspicious of smaller establishments – a quality that nearby Storm Pakhus, housed in a warehouse big enough to contain the Spruce Goose, doesn’t suffer from at all. With the exception of Reffen in Copenhagen, this is the best street food oasis you’re likely to visit in Denmark. With mouthwatering fare (no Billy no mates, from what we could see, which is always a good sign) and drink tastings galore, be warned as this crowd really know how to salsa! Denmark’s favourite beach? If you enjoy sand, sun and the ocean, Kerteminde Beach is the perfect fit. Hugely popular with the locals, thousands flock there for relaxation and fun. With its shallow bathing area on pristine sand, Nordstranden is particularly childfriendly. For nearby places to stay, Rødkærgård Bed & Breakfast (co-owner Pia makes amazing scones) and Kerteminde Bed & Breakfast Hotel come heartily recommended. The Great Northern Golf Course, one of Denmark’s best golf courses, is handily located nearby. Clay duties in Middlefart On the northwestern tip of Funen, where the island is linked to Jutland by the Little Belt Bridge (Den Nye Lillebæltsbro), is the aptly-named Middlefart – a town whose sign is a favourite of most visiting Instagrammers. No visit is complete without checking out Keramikmuseum Danmark. Exquisite views, stunning exhibits and an intriguing statue park combine to make it an unforgettable experience. Walk, gaze and play If you are into learning about Danish history and nobility, a tour of Egeskov Castle (located in Kvaerndrup) and its grounds might be exactly what you need! The options are endless: you can tour the castle and the grounds, take a look at the beautiful exhibitions, or even enjoy the large playground and take a zip-line through the middle of the forest.
HOLIDAY Summer 2020
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DANISH ISLANDS BY ROSELYNE MIN It astounds many new arrivals to learn that Denmark, the 130th largest country in the world (with Greenland onboard, it gallops into 12th place), has the 17th longest coastline.
HEJ DUNE:
WHERE LONG COASTLINES EQUALS LOTS OF SAND VISIT DENMARK/METTE JOHNSEN
At 7,314 km long, it’s longer than the coastlines of infinitely longer countries such as Chile, Argentina, Thailand and Spain, for example. And there’s no doubt that its 406 islands play a large role in this. They come in all shapes and sizes: from massive Zealand, which includes the capital and 40 percent of the country’s population, to the other 300-plus that are inhabited, they are all surrounded by water and unspoilt beaches.
But come the summer, the hordes arrive – from the cities and Germany mostly – although their number is never too many to overcrowd the shorelines and leave a lasting impression. Most Danish beaches outside the cities – yes, they have them too – are just as God intended. Picture driftwood, freshlyarrived seashells and nature generally doing its thing. And the very nature of islands means they tend to have more of them! Here are eight of the best handpicked for our CPH POST readers. Samsø Located in the Kattegat, 15 km off the Jutland Peninsula, Samsø (population 3,724) is one of the most beloved destinations for Danish holiday-goers. Its tranquil atmosphere can be found in every one of its 22 settlements, which all have their own distinctive character and charm. If you don’t know where to start, here’s a fool-proof plan: take a bottle of wine from Carlos Corner and the island’s best burgers (from Madsnedkeri in Tranebjerg) to Nordby Bakker, a nature area, or Sælvig Strand, a child-friendly beach with shallow water. And then work it off with a visit to the Brattingsborg Gods castle, its nearby woods and, heading due south, the quaintest lighthouse you’re ever likely to see. For a good local pub, check out Ræven, a værtshuse where all walks of life come to drink.
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FROM BIG BROTHER BORNHOLM TO EENY ENØ: EIGHT OF THE BEST ISLANDS DENMARK HAS TO OFFER Bornholm For a sense of really getting away from Denmark yet staying in it, you can’t beat the sunshine isle of Bornholm (population 39,662). Although finding a place in July will be hard given its popularity, this could be the perfect August destination for island-hoppers seeking slightly more than good beaches and quaint villages. Bornholm has it all: new Nordic cuisine, compelling history and outstanding nature. Located closer to Sweden, Germany and Poland than Denmark, it has had its fair share of different owners over the years – most recently the Soviets from 1945 to 1946. And today, its more welcome visitors flock to its beaches, ice cream parlours and smokehouses, where you can enjoy all manner of herring, smoked salmon and seafood galore – normally for a reasonable all-you-can-eat price. Top tip: time-travel to the 13th century ruins of Scandinavia’s largest medieval fortification at Hammershus Castle and take a dip or zip-line across Opalsøen, the old quarry in the island’s granite heyday lined with precipitous cliffs. Møn Most people go to Møn (population 9,385) to visit its impressive white chalk cliffs at Møns Klint. But while the views are impressive, and the water just as turquoise as you see it in the pictures, there’s a lot more to enjoy on the island. If you are looking to do some hiking and reconnect with nature, Møn is perfect. Similar to Camino de Santiago in Spain, you’ll find Camønoen, a 175-km hiking trail taking in the three islands of Møn, Bogø and Nyord. The routes are for both experienced and unskilled hikers with magnificent natural landscapes that range from forests and large planta-
VISIT SAMSØ/JEAPHILIPSEN
Dreaming of driftwood With so much coastline at their disposal, most rustic-living Danes are used to having their own private beach to walk along for eight or nine months of the year.
tions, to fields populated by Hereford cows and fantastic sandy beaches. Along the trails, you’ll find plenty of benches, toilets and shops to re-energise after your long walk. A good point to start your journey is at Stege, where you’ll find Møn’s main museum. Here you can get a map of the trails and recommendations from the staff. Stege is a beautiful town with charming restaurants and small shops where you can buy local products such as gin or honey. For a long sandy beach, visit Rytsebæk – it’s ideal for sunbathing and swimming. Also visit Klintom Havn for a stroll in the harbour and to sample great seafood and ice cream.
DANISH ISLANDS vehicles, blokarts and kite-buggies can be rented to ‘sail’ it.
VISIT DENMARK/NICLAS JESSEN
– in total, it takes about 3.5 hours. Once on the island, explore great beaches such as Søby and Vester Strand, which are ideal if you are travelling with children. For the traditional colourful beachside cabins, you have to go to the shores of Eriks Hale, near the town of Marstal, where there is a charming marina. This beach is an isthmus. On one side of the bay, you can enjoy the calm, shallow and warm water, while on the other one you’ll find the refreshing waters of the Baltic Sea. Ærø is certainly best enjoyed by bike. With 150 km of biking trails, the best option to experience the island to the fullest is to rent a bike and explore. To indulge in some local tastes we recommend you stop by Den Gamle Købmandsgaard. They sell local products and serve an unforgettable brunch. Also, try smoked specialties at Ærøskøbing Røgeri and don’t forget to try Ærø’s famous thick pancakes, Løvtens Paa’kar – surely the island’s masterwork! VISIT DENMARK/NICLAS JESSEN
Ærø Love birds travel to get married on the ‘Wedding Island’ – and for good reason. But even if you are not attending a wedding on Æro (population 6,058), it is well worth a visit for its colourful and quaint houses and its peaceful environment. It looks like something out of a Danish fairy-tale. To get there from Copenhagen, you can either drive or take a train and then the ferry to Ærøskøbing Havn
Rømø Right in the middle of the Wadden Sea and rich in geology, Rømø (population 584) is a great place for getting lost in sand dunes and letting the wind take you in the most unexpected of directions. Lakolk Beach is one of Europe’s widest sand beaches – the notorious local winds keep pushing the coastal line towards the west. Rent a horse or a pony to wander around the beach, or take a walking tour at Spidsbjerg for magnificent views of the forest and dunes. Havsand Lå, a naturally created swimming pool, is best enjoyed in the summer as its tidal water gets much warmer than the open sea. The 4kmwide Sønderstrand is not a usual beach – three-wheeled and wind-powered
Fanø The 12-minute ferry journey to Fanø (population 3,495) from Esbjerg introduces you to some of their most exuberant inhabitants: the seals. And really, who better to learn about island life from? Bask in the sun and occasionally bop your head. Located in the centre of the Wadden Sea National Park, the nature options are outstanding. For example, did you know that you can become an official Fanø mountain climber? Certificates are issued to those who conquer ‘The Big Five’ … hang on, they’re not really mountains, are they – more like trails across the dunes. Still, that hasn’t stopped the locals from having a bit of fun. Learn more at geocaching.com! In total, there’s almost a summerhouse for every inhabitant. For those in search of luxury, rent Sønderho Kro, which is one of Denmark’s oldest lodgings, and visit the Fanø Art Musuem in Sønderho, which is undeniably one of Denmark’s quaintest towns. Læsø In the southwest corner of Læsø (population 1,786), Denmark’s largest island in the Kattegat, you’ll find one of Denmark’s most special bathing beaches at Stokken. Famed as a great location to go wading out to collect clams and mussels, you are also permitted to bathe freely in the nude. With a gastronomy taken directly from the sea, forest and field, make sure you gobble up some freshly-caught lobsters, chick fish and chanterelles. Kayaking and windsurfing are popular on the island, but remember to take your own surfing equipment as it cannot be rented on the island. Meanwhile, the course at the Læsø Seaside Golf Club course has been named one of Europe’s best by the Peugeot Golf Guide. Enø For a spot of culture and history on Enø (population 297), head to Karrebæksminde – an idyllic fishing village situated between a fjord and bay of roughly the same name. Otherwise you’ll have to make do with the endless fun on the water. Enø Vandsport specialises in Stand Up Paddleboard (SUP) and kayaking, and visitors can rent boards, kayaks, kites and life jackets. While its best beach, Enø Strand, is known for its top-notch quality water. With bathing, camping, minigolf and a healthy number of places to eat – Fiskehuset Enø and Enø Bageri are the top picks – this is an island proud to serve. After all, you’ve probably already noticed that all the businesses tellingly have Enø in their name.
HOLIDAY Summer 2020
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UP NORTH BY NATHAN WALMER The natural phenomenon known as the ‘Midnight Sun’ is often depicted in film as driving people into delirium.
HARD DAY’S NIGHT
IN THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN
FSHOQ.COM/
It has set the stage for psychological thrillers and horror movies such as last year’s ‘Midsommar’ and the Norwegian film ‘Insomnia’ starring Stellan Skarsgård and its US remake in which he was replaced by Al Pacino. Pack a mask! The Midnight Sun in the northern hemisphere refers to the consecutive 24-hour periods of sunlight that shine north of the Arctic Circle due to the tilt of the Earth’s axis, though the effect of a midnight sun can be felt well south of that latitude.
Svalbard Islands If you can brave visiting the northernmost year-round settlement on Earth on an island archipelago so far-flung that it is rumoured polar bears outnumber humans, then look no further than Svalbard. On this Norwegian group of islands, the Midnight Sun doesn’t set for an astonishing four months between April 20 and August 22. The archipelago is positioned between the North Pole and Norway’s northern tip and can be reached by either flying into the town of Longyearbyen or via an Arctic expedition cruise. Aside from polar bears, adventurers can find Arctic foxes, reindeer, walrus, seals and whales – even the occasional great blue whale in its fjords. Kayaking, glacier hikes, fossilhunting, dog sledging and sea excursions are all popular activities on this wild Arctic outpost. Hammerfest, Norway If you feel more comfortable sticking to continental Europe, go and visit one of the oldest towns in northern Norway, which is located in Hammerfest, a region they called ‘The Land of the Midnight Sun’. Hammerfest enjoys 76 days of around-the-clock Midnight Sun from May until the end of July, so you can set out on ‘night-time’ sightseeing cruises from its ice-free port. Cycling and kayaking are popular activities here and there is also a 4.5 km zigzag hike to the top of closeby Mount Salen, where you can take in spectacular panoramic views of the landscape and of Hammerfest. Within striking distance of Hammerfest is the world’s
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IT’S NOT TOO LATE IN THE SEASON TO CHASE ETERNAL LIFE UP NORTH, BUT YOU’LL HAVE TO HURRY! most northerly golf course in Repparfjord where you are welcome to do the back nine at 9 pm at the all-hours course through the months of July and August.
FLICKR/ALMASSENGALE
If you wish to experience the magnificent and mesmerising qualities of the Midnight Sun in the following locales, be sure to pack a sleeping mask and to book yourself into accommodation equipped with effective blinds!
Swedish Lapland The northernmost province of Sweden, Lapland, is better known for its winter offerings and views of aurora borealis, though its midnight summer season from late May to mid-July is not to be missed either. Swedish Lapland is often referred to as ‘the last wilderness of Europe’ thanks to its vast, sparsely populated landscapes, ancient forests, and wildlife. You might have missed last month’s Kiruna Festival, but there will still be plenty of midnight sun-related partying. Otherwise, go hiking, whitewater rafting or on a moose safari. And don’t forget its world famous ‘Icehotel’, which is now open year-round. Finnish Lapland Finnish Lapland, which offers 70 consecutive days of Midnight Sun, gives its Swedish counterpart a run for its money in the partying stake. You might have missed the Finnish midsummer celebration of ‘Juhannus’ – where cookouts, alcoholic beverages and bonfires come in abundance – but you can still encounter merriment by waking up Father Christmas in his official hometown of Rovaniemi, which is known to host all-night sporting events, markets and parties. Reykjavik, Iceland Though a few degrees latitude below the Arctic Circle, the Icelandic capital offers plenty of nighttime daylight and events, such as the Secret Solstice Festival and Midnight Sun Run, whilst affording you extra time to take in the island’s spec-
tacular landscapes, geothermal pools and coastal excursions. The three-hour period between sunset and sunrise (from midnight to 3 am) is known locally as ‘civil twilight’. Faroe Islands The effects of the Midnight Sun can still be felt on the Faroe Islands, where the evening light is said to give the islands’ stunning natural features a dream-like hue. Take in the picturesque towns, rugged landscapes, coastlines, and pristine lakes and waterfalls, and make sure you toast the Midnight Sun at the idyllic lighthouse on the southernmost point of the island of Nólsoy.
GERMANY
LET IT BE GERMANY:
DREAM GET-AWAYS ON YOUR DOORSTEP
PIXABAY
WE DON’T TEND TO ASSOCIATE OUR NEIGHBOUR WITH SUMMER HOLIDAYS, BUT MAYBE IT’S TIME WE APPRAISED THAT
PIXABAY
Baden-Württemberg The best news about Baden-Württemberg is that it is the sunniest region of Germany: with 1,607 sunshine hours a year, tourists stand a great chance of enjoying good weather during their trip. With that being said, it is not surprising that many treat the state as a resort and travel to Baden-Baden, where mineral spas, casinos and hiking through the Black Forest are mixed together to create the ultimate summer destination. This southwestern German state is also famous for its rich landscape: the forest, the Swabian Alb area and the Neckartal Valley. One visit is all that’s needed to find a special place in the hearts of naturelovers. Other places to visit include the historic cities of Heidelberg and Tübingen, which lie alongside hectic urban centres such as Stuttgart.
BY DARIA SHAMONOVA Germany might look like a vapid summer destination, but in these coronavirus times of half-opened, half-closed borders, unobvious choices might be the right ones. Unlike some others (is that the tit for tat of pettiness, we can hear), our neighbouring country to the south is open to all Danish residents. Vast choice And it’s no exaggeration to claim that it can surprise tourists with a vast list of holiday options to choose from. From spa resorts and hiking routes to magical castles and old-fashioned towns, Germany is multi-dimensional, intriguing and worth being discovered.
The Romantic Road (from BadenWürttemberg to Bavaria) The Romantic Road starts south from Würzburg and flows to the small city of Füssen, and then down to the Bavarian Alps. It is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Germany, and it makes complete sense: the picturesque landscape makes tourists feel like they are driving through a Disney movie set. This feeling reaches its climax when one drives by the Neuschwanstein Castle, which – as it is claimed – served as an inspiration for Walt Disney’s architectural approach to his amusement parks. Do not hesitate to explore small cities that surprise tourists with their folksy charm and long-held traditions.
Berlin and Potsdam In light of all the coronavirus-related restrictions, maybe this summer is not the perfect time to visit Berlin – a city whose magical nightlife tends to cast a spell on visiting tourists. However, the city still has something to offer: hundreds of museums, lakes and beaches, historic landmarks and so much architectural variety that it is often remarked upon that Berlin looks like five different cities merged into one. Top tips: venture outside Berlin to explore parts of Brandenburg, the federal state that Berlin belongs to, and its capital, the UNESCO World Heritage City of Potsdam, where the Renaissancestyle Sanssouci Palace is the perfect place to start. Thuringia Thuringia is known for being the home state of Goethe, Schiller and Bach, and also the birthplace of the prominent German art school Bauhaus, which makes it the perfect travel destination for history and art geeks. However, the state also offers a range of activities for active tourism enthusiasts. Germany’s best-known hiking trail, Rennsteig, is located here. Thuringia is the country’s ‘green heart’, and its medieval fortress ruins and surrounding rivers and forests have always been highly popular among tourists. Saxony Although Saxony is filled with lovely historic towns such as Görlitz, Bautzen, Freiberg and Pirna, the main tourist destinations are Dresden and Leipzig, Germany’s cultural centres. While Dresden is famous for its architectural treasures, such as the Baroque-style Zwinger Palace and a Lutheran church that defines the city’s skyline, Leipzig is more likely to attract music lovers as it is the home of Thomanerchor, the prominent boys’ choir. Lake Constance Lake Constance lies where Austria, Germany and Switzerland meet and does not legally belong to any of these countries. However, from a coast point of view, Germany has the best part: the lake’s beautiful northern rim. Such cities as Lindau or Konstanz are the best picks if one is looking for a beach holiday in Germany and, as the lake is framed by the Alps, it is also an astonishingly scenic location for summer get-aways. The boat trip on the Bodensee is the main tourist attraction. It takes visitors to the Rhine Falls, one of the biggest waterfalls in Europe, along with islands of Mainau and Reichenau, which are preserved by UNESCO.
HOLIDAY Summer 2020
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EUROPE BY AYEE MACARAIG The sunbeds are out and the beach umbrellas are properly distanced. You may need to swap scarves for face masks, but much of Europe is already open for travel.
ACROSS THE UNIVERSE
OR AT LEAST EUROPE ... BUT WHO KNOWS NEXT YEAR!
HARRYGOUVAS
The world’s most visited continent was initially a patchwork of reopenings with air bridges and travel bubbles. But many European countries are now luring in tourists and there is greater clarity on travel rules thanks to the Reopen EU platform. Crowdless fun It’s Europe like travellers have never seen before, and it’s devoid of crowds.
Bid adieu to the Louvre and save your coins for a later trip to the Trevi Fountain. Many of these stops are not your usual attractions. Greece The Mediterranean nation is emerging as a rare coronavirus success story. With a strict and early lockdown, Greece kept deaths and cases low and presents itself as the safest European destination. Starting July 1, direct international flights to the country will resume. The city of Preveza is a must-visit for family holidays with sumptuous cuisine and sejours in a villa or tourist apartment. It also has one of Europe’s longest beaches, Monolithi Beach, which makes social distancing an easy feat. There is also the idyllic island of Corfu, which offers pristine beaches, wine-tasting excursions and a private palace tour. Croatia Among the European countries least affected by the coronavirus and with the highest number of hospital beds per inhabitant, Croatia is not just a safe option but also a cultural gem. Its capital Zagreb offers thousands of terraces, gorgeous parks, cobblestone streets and ancient towers. Next stop is the port city of Rijeka, the 2020 European Capital of Culture. It has a diverse collection of medieval castles as well as clean, blue beaches. There too is the southernmost resort of Cavtat, famous among celebrities, lovers and families. Visitors can enjoy hidden coves, long walks by the sea, dancing and ATV safari.
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HOLIDAY Summer 2020
SOME OF EUROPE’S LEAST-INFECTED COUNTRIES PROMISE HOLIDAYS OFF THE BEATEN TRACK, FREE OF MASS TOURISM AND CLICHÉ STOPS Romania Those into slow, stress-free tourism can find solace in Romania, which took quick measures to manage the coronavirus impact. Head to the city of Oradea, one of Europe’s best medieval destinations. It is a capital of art nouveau architecture and has a wide array of museums, craft workshops and restaurants. Families can enjoy the Nymphaea Aqua Park with slides for children and turkish baths for adults. The city of Sibiu, meanwhile, is home to walls from its 12 century past as a former Germanic citadel. Awarded three Michelin stars, the gastronomic destination draws history buffs and fans of outdoor activities. Poland EU citizens can enter Poland without any hassle, and its capital Warsaw also boasts a low crime rate. Trendy cafes, bars and an old town renovated from the Second World War are just some of its attractions. Lovers of classic music, particularly of Chopin, will relish their time in museums, tours and manors dedicated to the celebrated pianist. Tourists cannot skip Gdansk, the Pearl of the Baltic. The city has historic districts of rare beauty complete with patrician houses. There are also sandy beaches and parks for those who prefer being close to nature. Austria Travellers from Denmark can enter or leave Austria without restrictions. Vienna is ideal for history buffs and fans of jazz, waltz and classical music as live concerts have resumed in time for Beethoven Year 2020. The city’s art hotels make guests feel like they are living in a museum and spending the night with Andy Warhol. The coffee house tradi-
PIXABAY
Working with local tourism offices, travel website European Best Destinations has named the safest destinations based on COVID-19 cases and hygiene protocols.
tion is also back and tourists can hit Hotel Sacher to take a slice of the Sacher Torte, known as the world’s most famous chocolate cake. Nature parks and wine hills offer an escape for those tired of city life. Slovenia Slovenia welcomes tourists from Denmark. The Alpine valley of Bohinj is its green lung, considered one of Europe’s best sustainable destinations. Its hiking and mountaineering trails attract trekkers, while the Triglav National Park has thousands of animal and plant species, including wild flowers of magnificent colours. The blue-green waters of Lake Bohinj are a haven for those who want to chill out or go kayaking, canyoning and paragliding. A country known for healthy waters and spas, Slovenia provides a soothing experience in the only European country where the Alps, the Mediterranean and the Pannonian Plain can all be found.
REVIEW
Bandholm Hotel Havnegade 37, Bandholm, Lolland; room for two with breakfast: 1,360kr, with four-course dinner & wine pairings: 3,680kr; bandholmhotel.dk
COME TOGETHER:
SALUBRITY, SUMMER SPECTRES AND SAUCERERS
BY BEN HAMILTON The enduring popularity of TV2 series ‘Badehotellet’ reminds the nation of how much they loved to be beside the seaside in more innocent times. FACEBOOK/BANDHOLM HOTEL
Long before the days of Spies package tours, Danish families would aspire to spend a few days at a jolly coastal hotel – like the Marienlyst Strandhotel in Helsingør, for example. And when Svinkløv Badehotel burned down recently – it was like the nation had lost a favourite aunt, such is their affection for the coastal buildings. It’s almost as if there’s a collective nostalgia in Denmark, regardless of whether you personally experienced it. Sun’s always shining Walking through the various dining and lounge areas of the Bandholm Hotel in darkest winter made me feel like the caretaker in ‘The Shining’. On every wall, photographs told of a thousand occasions – faces from a multitude of eras stared back and for an eerie second or two I sensed I had company. Off-season hotels are in this way haunted by their other half: the summery, warmer version when conversely they’re just as empty during the day but bursting with life in the morning and evening. Located on the island of Lolland a 90-minute drive south of the capital, it’s the ideal weekend away break – regardless of the season. On the occasion of our visit, the rain was lashing down, and high winds were racing across the waters of Lindholm Dyb – it was positively bracing. For a businessperson wanting to escape the big smoke for some respite or an author seeking inspiration for their next book, it’s a wonderful way to recharge. Cosy like Christie Entering Bandholm Hotel was like opening the portal to another world – a smaller version of Bertram’s Hotel, if you’re familiar with the Agatha Christie novel. Bertram’s, like Bandholm, longs for a past that might not have even existed –
WELCOME TO BANDHOLM, A HOTEL SO ENTRENCHED IN HOLIDAY VIBES WE FELT ITS GUESTS’ PRESENCE IN DEEPEST WINTER
From the creaky floors, to the ornamental lamps on bedside tables not built into walls, to the physical room key – even the Great Northern in Twin Peaks uses cards these days – it’s pure escapism.
In fact he didn’t put a foot wrong all night. Every dish, in a sense, was a marriage of two sauces as the wine pairings beautifully accentuated the rich flavours of the food on our palates. From the light, foamy delight of the lobster and pumpkin (it was that time of year!) soup to the drippings that accompanied the confit of chicken, it’s hard to recall a meal that brought so many intense flavours.
And with the wind whistling Wagner outside, it was hard to resist the urge for a pre-dinner nap. Besides, we had reservations at nearby Bandholm Wellness.
Breakfast bliss Breakfast the next day, as we woke up to panoramic, wind-swept, ocean expanses, was another memorable affair.
Just over half a kilometre’s walk from the hotel, the health centre is like a Buddhist temple, and our hosts for the night, Naomi and Eric, while not priests, had Zen-like temperaments and hand skills to match.
Everything was homemade! From the hazelnut chocolate spread to the delicate pastries and enormous chunks of granola, we had the sense of a higher being looking over us as if the food itself was charmed.
and everything about the check-in had a yesteryear vibe, as the cheery, wisecracking receptionist welcomed us in (his Irish counterpart in Christie’s novel is swiftly murdered, I recall).
Following a relaxing spa, it was time for a massage, as strong hands brought relief to weary muscles and urban-life hypertension. Eric the Viking (did I mention he had big, powerful hands?) is particularly knowledgeable about the human body, and the available services are accordingly varied, offering both therapeutic and clinical options. Delighted at dinner Any suggestion the dining room might be a bit empty on this rainy night were immediately quelled as we took our seats at a charming table by the window. Ambience levels were at a high, not least thanks to a family enjoying a birthday party on the adjoining table – and the sommelier got off to a splendid start by serving us a splendid 2008 champagne.
There was barely anyone else with us to enjoy the feast – maybe they’d set off earlier for a day at the nearby Knuthenborg safaripark – but it was with great contentment that we appreciated the solitude. Soon we would be back in the bright lights of the city, courtesy of our affordable car rental (GoMore), but the memories of our night at Bandholm will live long in the memory. So thank you, Cheeky Check-in Chappy, so long, Sommelier Smarty-Pants Saucerer, cheerio Eric the Viking, and here’s to you, the gods of nature, for ensuring it was an unforgettable experience. This review was originally published in CPH POST in February 2020
HOLIDAY Summer 2020
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BY GITHA SCHULTZ Danish concepts and ambiances can be very difficult to pin down. They cover moods where enjoyment, nature, day and evening ambiances closely combine to add up to a love affair and end on a higher plane of intimacy in twilight, candlelight or daylight.
A DAY IN THE LIFE
Radishes and residences It can be difficult to define the Danish expression ‘hygge’ (very roughly ‘cosiness’), but once you have experienced it, you are in no doubt when you meet it again. The ultimate Danish summer hygge has to be allotment hygge. Originally called a kitchen garden, the allotment became a sort of recreational area for working-class families from the inner cities. It was a little piece of ground you could rent where you could grow fruit and vegetables – a good and healthy supplement to a poor worker’s diet. Not least, it provided a feeling of having a bit of nature – a haven away from all the hard work, and at a price a worker could afford. Allotments can be found everywhere in the suburbs of Copenhagenand other cities, and in 2020 it is quite normal to find a house on one of these plots. Today, it is more often middle-class people rather than workers who rent these allotments, and it’s quite normal that houses and other facilities are built on them. The capital came first Copenhagen’s oldest allotments, which date back to 1893, are the ‘Vennelyst’ in Christianshavn. While Frederiksberg, not far from the centre of Copenhagen, hosts the almost equally old Haveforeningen Grænsen. A cosy little gravel path between Peter Bangs Vej and Finsensvej hosts a myriad of different types of houses and plants – gardens full of beautiful flowers and almost in bonsai format. There are three other allotment associations along the same path in addition to Haveforeningen Grænsen. Within the rules In order to establish an allotment area you need at least five plots that on average shouldn’t exceed 400 square metres. Additionally, it is only permissible to stay there during the period from April to October. Living there permanently is, in principle, not allowed by any of the allotment associations. Allotment associations can be independ-
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HOLIDAY Summer 2020
MOST INVARIABLY INVOLVE ‘HYGGE’ AND THE ‘KOLONIHAVE’ IN DENMARK ent but can also be members of the Kolonihaveforbundet allotment federation. You can’t own an allotment – only buy the right to rent the plot with house and garden. Allotment life is a very cheek-by-jowl affair, encompassing as many different types as can be found on a plane on the way to New York or Tokyo for example. People are often reflected in the creative way they furnish the house and its appearance behind the hedge. There is everything from super luxurious huts to tents, or houses that remind you of the buildings in the Free State of Christiania. Each allotment association has its own rules in addition to those set out by law. But it is a free area where you can paint your house yellow and your fence green. People with allotments improve the quality of their lives by getting to grips with the earth and attaining a very relaxed – and not least ‘hyggelig’ – ambiance and lifestyle. Easy to rent There are at least 65,000 allotments in Denmark, if not more. Allotments were originally owned by the state and municipalities, but DSB Ejendomme, the property arm of the Danish national railway operator, owns a significant amount of allotments, although it operates them under different rules. In addition, other
allotment associations can be privately established. Should you come past one of these cosy small houses you can often see the Danish flag flying in the blue sky and smell the coffee brewing. There is a strawberry tart on the table and the buzz of both bees and people in the gardens. It may even be possible for you as a tourist or temporary resident of Denmark to rent one of these sought-after allotments. You can walk down the path and, with luck, find the association’s secretary or talk to some of the residents over the hedge. The people who live in these houses are open and welcoming, enjoy their allotment life to the full and, not least, are sociable; you have to be when the hedges are close and you are living on top of each other.
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