Cph visit post july2018 by The Copenhagen Post

SUMMER 2018 CPHPOST.DK

TAKE A DIP IN DENMARK The world’s best urban bathing areas are waiting for you to take the plunge

PHOTO: VISITDENMARK

SUMMER AT THE MOST BEAUTIFUL MUSEUM IN DENMARK MORE INFO AND OPENING HOURS: WWW.LOUISIANA.DK

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WELCOME

WELCOME TO COPENHAGEN - A GREEN AND DIVERSE CITY Several times now the Danish capital has been voted the world’s best city to live in – and with good reason.

I would especially recommend renting a bike and visiting the many different parts of the city: from diverse and multicultural Nørrebro to the natural beauty of Amager Fælled and the pretty routes alongside the harbour.

INFORMATION GALORE

PLENTY TO OFFER

Copenhagen has a great deal to offer: from green spaces and intimate public squares to excellent possibilities for biking and a wide range of exciting worldclass cultural and culinary experiences. Copenhagen is a popular tourist destination and, as deputy mayor for culture and leisure, I’m very pleased that so many people choose to visit our lovely city. There are masses of things to experience, whether it’s the classic tourist sights such as the Little Mermaid, relaxing by the harbour swimming baths at Islands Brygge, visiting art exhibitions, or enjoying delicious food in Kødbyen.

The staff of the Copenhagen Visitor Centre, the city’s official tourist information centre, are ready to point you, your family and friends in the direction of exciting experiences in Copenhagen and in the whole of the Greater Copenhagen area. Copenhagen Visitor Centre in Vesterbro is the only tourist information centre in Denmark where you can get a unique and experience-orientated understanding of the city through virtual reality. You can also obtain tourist information at the following places in town: ENIGMA, Frederiksberg Centret, Rådhusoplysningen, Denmark’s National Gallery SMK, the National Museum, Illum, Copenhagen’s main public library, Østerbro’s public library, Ørestad’s public library and Tivoli. In addition, you can access a digital tourist guide, Copenhagen Visitor Guide, on your mobile.

SUMMER IS HERE!

You might have heard it has been unseasonably warm so far this year, and the forecasters have assured us it will continue! Take advantage of the weather to enjoy our urban bathing spots (pages 12-13), which were recently named the world’s best by CNN. I’m very happy to bid you welcome to Copenhagen – a green and diverse city. Enjoy your stay! Niko Grünfeld Deputy mayor for culture and leisure

FIVE RECOMMENDATIONS Best place to relax: Amager Fælled or other green areas in the city Best place to eat: communal eating at Absalon’s Church on Vesterbro Best place to drink/go out: enjoy the view and atmosphere at Dronning Louise’s Bridge Best place to take the family: a trip around the canals in Copenhagen harbour. Copenhagen is really special when seen from the water. Insider’s tip: a tour around City Hall – a historic story about the city and its architecture.

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COPENHAGENCARD SEE M0RE. PAY LESS.

WWW.COPENHAGENCARD.COM

Free access to 86 museums and attractions Free transport by train, bus and Metro in the entire metropolitan area One adult can bring along 2 children under the age of 10 for free

COPENHAGEN CARD APP The Copenhagen Card guide is also available as an app for iPhone or Android. THE COPEN HAGE N P O ST TO UR I S M M AGAZ I N E â&#x20AC;¢ S U MME R 2 0 1 8

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AUTHOR: ANNA JUUL

48 HOURS IN CPH / Day One 9AM: CAFFEINE AND COMMENCE Grab a Danish pastry and coffee to wake up the right way – the Danish way. While there are many good locations around the city, one particular standout is this branch of Lagkagehuset (Frederiksberggade 21) on the main shopping street, Strøget. In addition to being a convenient starting point, the bakery offers some of the best pastries in the city. Take a number to order, and then pick from the many buns and cakes available for a sweet beginning to the day. 10AM: RETAIL THERAPY ON STRØGET From Lagkagehuset, embark down Strøget, which is one of Europe’s longest pedestrian shopping streets. Browse well-known brands like Prada, Gucci and Louis Vuitton, and look out for some of the big local names, such as Sand Copenhagen, Mads Nørgaard and Acne Archive. Among the many shops are dozens of winding side-streets, each leading to another row of boutiques begging to be explored. 12PM: SEAFOOD IN THE HARBOUR Just a minute’s walk from the end of Strøget is Nyhavn. As one of the most picturesque places in Copenhagen, it boasts a colourful row of colonial boathouses along a bustling harbour. Nyhavn is the perfect place to rest after a tiring morning of shopping and finding a cosy restaurant to sit in will not be a problem. If you’re looking for recommendations, Restaurant Gilleleje is an excellent choice. Open since 1876, the restaurant is still decorated with the items sailors used to pay for their meals. Or opt for the feel-good nostalgia of Heering Restaurant and Bistro, whose ‘Herring Platter’ is one of Copenhagen’s classic dishes.

PHOTO: ANNA JUUL

PHOTO: WIKIPEDIA.ORG

PHOTO: ANNA JUUL

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PHOTO: ANNA JUUL

2PM: PERUSING PARLIAMENT Now it’s time to turn around and follow the waterfront (or Strøget) back to Christiansborg Palace (Prins Jørgens Gård 1), a building with a rich history of firstly housing the Danish Royal Family and more recently the country’s Parliament and Supreme Court. Visitors are always welcome to tour parts of the building and explore the impressive collection of royal and national memorabilia. For just 150 kroner, take a look around the royal reception area (the rooms used for state visits by foreign leaders), the historic kitchens and stables, and the ruins beneath the palace. 5PM: A NIGHT AMONG THE LIGHTS From Christiansborg head to Tivoli Gardens (Vesterbrogade 3), the second-oldest operating amusement park in the world. There you can find innumerable restaurants and diverse entertainment, including amusement rides as well as live music. The winding paths in the park are lined with warmly-colored lights, creating an unmissable atmosphere. Entry costs 120 kroner (a ride pass costs a lot more) and lasts until the park closes at midnight. Take a tip from the locals: skip the overpriced restaurants within the park and opt for a picnic on the lush lawn. All you have to do is bring your own food and blanket.

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PHOTO: WIKIPEDIA.ORG

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48 HOURS IN CPH / Day TWO 10AM: ALTERNATIVE SIGHTSEEING Founded by squatters who took over an empty military barracks in the early 1970s, the ‘Freetown’ of Christiania is a bustling bohemian city within a city, distinct from Copenhagen thanks to its lackadaisical policy on street art and its open sale of cannabis. Don’t be put off by the name ‘Pusher Street’ as this commune has so much more to offer than drugs. The lively streets are brimming with personality, so make sure you take in some of the cosy cafes, inspired street music, and numerous art galleries. Guided tours are a great way to enjoy them – the Christianshavn Tour in English or Spanish leaves from Højbro Plads and lasts 90 minutes. This particular tour is highly rated – not only does it boast wonderful guides, but it’s free of charge, although you need to register in advance online. 1PM: ORGANIC LUNCH, HISTORIC CHURCH Grab lunch at one of the many organic cafes in Christiania before heading to the nearby Church of our Saviour (Sankt Annæ Gade 29) in Christianshavn. Built in 1696, the church has a view 90 metres above street level, allowing anyone who is brave enough to climb its 150 steps an amazing view of Copenhagen. The helix spire and paired winding staircase are famous not only for their unique look, but an urban legend that claims its architect killed himself by jumping off after realising it turned the wrong way (anticlockwise instead of clockwise). There is no truth to this myth, but it does serve to make the church that much more interesting to visit.

PHOTO: ARTOFTHEMOOC.ORG

PHOTO: ANNA JUUL

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48 HOURS IN CPH / Day TWO

3PM: KING’S JEWELS AND PRIVATES If you enjoyed Christiansborg, you’ll love Rosenborg Castle – a quick trek back across the water and into town. Set within the beautiful Kongens Have (King’s Garden), the castle holds 400 years’ worth of royal art and regalia, including the Crown Jewels – a must-see embellishment of table-cut stones, enamel, and gold ornamentation. Make sure you visit the Knight’s Hall, which holds the coronation thrones, as well as the King’s private quarters. And then take a stroll around the gardens. Beautiful in their own right, the peaceful gardens offer respite from a hectic day. It should be noted that Rosenborg Castle is part of the museum district Parkmuseerne, for which a 195 kroner ticket grants you access to six museums in the nearby locale. 7PM: NEW NORDIC NOURISHMENT For dinner, try to get a booking at one of Copenhagen’s famous New Nordic restaurants. Over the last decade the cuisine has taken the world by storm by using local, seasonal produce to reinvent Scandinavian dishes. It’s true that establishments like Noma are impossible to get a reservation for, but others are better bets. Try Manfreds in Norrebro, PONY in Vestebro, or Host in central Copenhagen, among many others.

PHOTO: ANNA JUUL

PHOTO: MANFREDS.DK

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9PM: AFTER-DINNER GLINTS If you still have the energy after a long day and dinner, explore Copenhagen’s diverse nightlife. If you are interested in clubs, try Chateau Motel (Knabrostræde 3), which is close to Strøget, or Hive (Skindergade 45), another within walking distance of the main street. If you are too tired to dance but don’t want to end your night just yet, a bar might be a good idea. The nearby BrewPub Copenhagen (Vestergade 29) offers good beer and a cosy ambiance – a great place to unwind and chat to friends.

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PHOTO: NICKYDIGITAL.COM

ICE CREAM

AUTHOR: HANS HERMANSEN

Quite simply the ‘is’ in Danish Presenting ten of the best ice cream parlours in Copenhagen Help stave off the summer heat and humidity with a cone of the cold stuff. There’s a host of top-notch Copenhagen creameries to sample – from Sicilian gelato to traditional Danish flødeis – and to stop the brain freeze, we’ve compiled the best of the bunch for you.

SICILIANSK IS Skydebanegade 3, Cph V open daily 12:00-21:00; sicilianskis.dk This old-school ice cream shop specialises in traditional Mediterranean gelato, importing most of their products directly from Italy to their Vesterbro parlour. Their special ingredients: coffee beans roasted in Palermo, pistachios from Bronte and lemons from Messina. There are also outlets at Christianshavns Kanal 2 in the city centre and at Rantzausgade 56 in Nørrebro. BON BON ICE Andebakkesti 4, Frederiksberg; open MonFri 13:00-21:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-21:00; bonbonice.dk Since last year, the staff have paid a working visit to Italy and revitalised their menu, and the nostalgia and goodies are dripping from every item. Savour the homemade cones, go Killer Vanilla with the adult milkshakes, and don’t, whatever you do, leave without trying the jumbo-sized Belgian waffle. ISMAGERIET Rued Langgaards Vej 6E, Cph S; open MonSat 09:00-23:00, Sun 10:00-23:00; ismageriet.dk Only organic milk and entirely natural ingredients go into creating the range of gourmet flavours at Ismageriet. Try the rhubarb sorbet for a fresh zing or the indulgent peanut fudge chocolate ice cream.

PHOTO: SICILIANSKIS.DK

SICILIANSK IS

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ISTID

PHOTO: ISTID

ISTID Jægersborggade 13, Cph N; open weekdays 13:00-18:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-18:00; istid.dk At Scandinavia’s first nitrogen ice cream shop you can choose from four distinctive flavours that change every month. Crème fraîche or strawberry with white balsamic are just some of the unusual tastes featured on ISTID’s menu. And don’t miss out on the boozy ice cream cocktails served on Friday evenings. This summer’s list includes Aperol Spritz and White Russians. VAFFELBAGERIET Tivoli, Vesterbrogade 3, Cph V; open SunThu 11:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00; tivoli.dk Vaffelbageriet – the family-owned business located within Copenhagen’s Tivoli amusement park – has used age-old recipes since 1906. The creamery has been tipped as the one of the world’s best ice cream parlours by the New York Times and National Geographic; ask for an Amerikaner and you won’t be disappointed.

IS À BELLA Stall B4, Torvehallerne, Frederiksborggade 21, Cph K; open on Mon-Thu 10:0019:00, Fri 10:00-20:00, Sat 10:0018:00, Sun 11:00-17:00; torvehallernekbh.dk Amongst the crowds of Torvehallerne food market, you will find the sweet treat Is à Bella. This creamery specialises in homemade Italian ice cream and has over 40 different flavours to choose from; there’s even delicious goodies for vegans, diabetics or those with gluten intolerance. ØSTERBERG ICE CREAM Rosenvængets Allé 7C, Cph Ø; open MonFri 12:00-21:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-21:00; osterberg-ice.dk Owner Cathrine Østerberg hails from a family known as a global superpower in the world of fruit – dragonfruit, jackfruit and pomegranate are two of the more exotic flavours – although we were more taken by the gooey bits in the cookie dough and chocolate brownie scoops. As the logo says: “Taste the world!”

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HANSENS MEJERI FORHANDLER Store Kongensgade 93, Cph K; open 11:0017:30 most days, Sat 10:00-14:00, closed on Sun; hansens-is.dk As the name suggests, this exclusively sells one of Denmark’s most popular family brands, which takes pride in its local, ethical product selection. The rum ‘n’ raisin is to die for. OLIVER’S GARAGE Kystvejen 24, Charlottenlund; open weekdays 08:00-18:30, Sat-Sun 09:00-18:30; oliversgarage.dk Not content with selling one of the world’s best burgers from Gasoline Grill, a former service station near Kongens Nytorv, some of the city’s best ice cream can be found at this garage, which is housed in a listed building. The ice cream is sourced from Vebbestrup Flødeis. NICECREAM Elmegade 30, Cph N & Enghave Plads 10, Cph V; open Mon-Thu 12:00-21:00, Fri-Sun 12:00-22:00; nicecreamcph.com Ice creams like they’ve been served by circus artists. Sandwiched, balancing, and creatively named, all the ingredients are organic. Nice to see you, to see you … gulp … gone.

BATHING

SPOTS

AUTHOR: HANS HERMANSEN

ISLANDS BRYGGE HARBOUR BATH

PHOTO: VISITCOPENHAGEN.COM

A city swimming with options Beaches, harbour baths and even a free public pool are among the many possibilities to cool off in the capital You probably wouldn’t dream of diving into the murky waters of London’s Thames for fear of catching some dreaded waterborne disease or coming face-to-face with an old crisps packet, but in Copenhagen – after a decade-long clean-up operation – the city’s waterways have been totally revamped and are now swimmable. In fact, Copenhagen was recently named the world’s best bathing city by CNN, over famous beach destinations such as Rio de Janeiro. The harbour baths and nearby city beaches are all open to the public and are free to use; since the opening of the first harbour bath back in 2002, the transformation has been met with great gusto from the locals, who flock to the baths come rain or shine.

ISLANDS BRYGGE HARBOUR BATH Islands Brygge 7, Cph S; open 24/7, lifeguards on duty 11:00-19:00; free adm The first of the baths to open, Islands Brygge Harbour Bath – designed by famed Danish architect Bjarke Ingels – has now become a crucial fixture on Copenhagen’s waterfront. Nestled just below Langebro bridge, bathers can take a rigorous plunge into the harbour’s depths whilst surrounded by the pulsing cityscape. FISKETORVET HARBOUR BATH Kalvebod Brygge 55, Cph V; open 24/7, lifeguards on duty 11:00-19:00; free adm If you’re looking to clock up some serious laps, visit Fisketorvet’s Olympic-size outdoor pool where there are designated swimming lanes and plenty of diving boards. There’s also a separate children’s pool and on duty lifeguards during opening hours.

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AMAGER BEACH PARK Amager Strand Stien, Cph S; free adm; amager-strand.dk Just 5km from the city centre and easily accessible by the Metro, Amager Beach Park is popular with Copenhagers and in the summer months is rammed with beachgoers. From its sandy shores you’re treated to an arresting view of the windmill park and the Øresund Bridge linking Denmark and Sweden. SVANEMØLLE BEACH Strandpromenaden 36, Cph Ø; free adm One of the newest additions to Copenhagen’s watering holes – finished in 2010 – is Svanemølle Beach. Its distinctive bay with a shallow gradient makes it perfect for families, and a 130m long pier provides access into deeper waters for any adventurous types.

PHOTO: DR.DK

BELLEVUE BEACH

PHOTO: DANCULTURE.DK

BELLEVUE BEACH Strandvejen 340, Hellerup; free adm; bellevuestrandbad.dk If you have a little more time and want to experience a bit of suburbia, then Klampenborg’s Bellevue Beach – about 10km from downtown Copenhagen – is the place to head to. The beach has several piers to jump from as well as watchful lifeguards and freshwater showers. Whilst you’re there, pay a quick visit to Bellevue Theatre – designed by Arne Jacobsen.

AMAGER BEACH PARK

BAVNEHØJ FRILUFTSBAD Enghavevej 90, Cph SV; open daily 07:0020:00; free adm From its 12 online reviews, it’s all fours and fives for this public swimming pool, which on hot summer days is all arms and legs as local Copenhageners flock to it to cool off. The large paddling area and 25-metre pool, which has cordoned-off lanes for serious swimmers, are situated next to a large grassy area with climbing frames for children and volleyball, which make it the ideal spot to picnic and laze around.

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KALVEBOD BØLGE Kalvebod Brygge, Cph K; free adm In the waters opposite Islands Brygge lies a snaky wooden promenade that at one point reaches a third across the harbour’s expanse, offering bathers a challenging swim several metres below their vantage point. Ideal for meeting friends and chilling, the 49 million kroner construction opened in 2013.

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AUTHOR: DAVE SMITH

PHOTO: AMALIENBORG.DK

Inside the palace complex

The royal residence of Amalienborg offers a mixture of regal experiences Amalienborg is the Danish Royal Family’s main residence and consists of four palaces built in the 18th Century. You can take a truly royal day out and enjoy three royal experiences at the palace complex. This includes accessing two of the palaces and watching the changing of the Royal Life Guard, which takes place every day at noon. FOR ASPIRING ROYAL CHEFS At Christian VIII’s Palace you can take a closer look at royal life past and present. The museum presents the private interiors of the recent kings and queens, as well as an exhibition on the monarchy today, which this summer features a room dedicated to royal meals. On most days, there is also access to the magnificent royal representation rooms, which includes the impressive Gala Hall. FOR ASPIRING ROYAL GUESTS Christian VII’s Palace is the queen’s guest palace, and you can be shown round the spectacular rooms and halls where many royal festivities take place, including the traditional New Year’s Banquet.

AMALIENBORG

Slotsplads 5, Mph K; open daily 10:00-17:00; 95kr, under-18s: free adm; amalienborg.dk

PHOTO: AMALIENBORG.DK

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F A M I LY

AUTHOR: BEN HAMILTON

E x p e r i m e n tal ly exhausting

PHOTO: EXPERIMENTARIUM.DK

PHOTO: CEBRA-ARCHITECTURE

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Experimentarium Tuborg Havnevej 7, Hellerup; open Mon-Fri 09:30-17:00, Sat-Sun 09:30-17:00; over-11s 195kr, under-12s 115kr, under-3s free adm; experimentarium.dk

09:31: ”Hi darling, just wanted to let you know that we got here at 09:30 as planned – easy to find from Hellerup Station. I don’t think we’ll be much longer than an hour, so we’ll see you at 11 for coffee!” 10:47: “We’re not going to make coffee. Young Jasper took one look at the ball-bearings on a rail contraption and he was off. I’ve never seen him look so excited. He’s still there now, scoring points for all the balls he can collect. At least he seems to understand the rules. And Tom and Sarah have been cycling, hopping, playing stepping stones and testing their reactions, strength and agility in every way possible. And we’re not even finished on the first floor. Restaurant at 1 looking more likely now.” 13:13: “We’re still on the first floor, I’m afraid. Once Jasper found out about the hopping, cycling and the rest, he wanted to try them all, and the others didn’t seem to mind. We’ll get something at the canteen. Seriously, 3 o’clock for coffee – I’ll drag ‘em out if I need to.” 14:55: “I’ve never seen the kids so fascinated. Even Jasper is reading most of the scientific explanations. Every time I suggest it’s time to move on, we find something that everyone wants to do – yeah … me included. Like did you know I have an amazing heartbeat recovery time, and the fitness of somebody aged 32! Next up is a team challenge on observation skills.” 16:55: “We’re on the roof! Games galore up here and what a view! The place closes in five minutes, so I guess this is finally it. Although I hear they’re opening a luxury cinema up here so next year we can stay even longer. The kids are tired as hell, but they’re already talking about coming back! And Jasper says he wants to be a nuclear physicist. Time to head down the insane spiral stairway.”

JAZZ-SERVICE IN ENGLISH in the heart of Vesterbro

JUly 1. and August 12. at 1 pm Experience a contemporary jazz-service in a Lutheran church. Join us for tea & coffee after the service. All denominations are welcome. www.eliaskirken.dk facebook.com/eliaskirken Tivoli

Eliaskirken Central Station

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Publisher: CPH POST Editor: Hans Hermansen Magazine designers: Thomas Missmahl & Roann Villarosa Journalists: Anna Juul, Oliver Raassina, Tess Westbrook, Douglas Whitbread Info: hans@cphpost.dk Tel: +45 2420 2411

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MUSEUMS

AUTHOR: TANIA-VALENTINA COCESIU

In the company of actors, architects and artists Head north of Copenhagen this season to make the most of the mild weather and longer days to embrace some culture. While there’s more than enough for a week’s worth of exploring, if you’re crafty you can first plot a course to the Karen Blixen Museum in time for its 10am opening. Then head to Helsingør and take in two of Denmark’s most compelling buildings – Kronborg Castle and the new Maritime Museum of Denmark – either side of a lunchtime of fish and chips perhaps. And then finally, dash along the coast to the fishing settlement of Gilleleje to admire Nakkehoved Lighthouse as the sun sets. Bon voyage!

BE A GUEST IN HAMLET’S HOME Kronborg Castle, Kronborg 2C, Helsingør; open daily 10:00-17:30, no admission in final 30 mins; 90kr, under-18s free adm; kongeligeslotte.dk Do you want to feel like travelling back in time by immersing yourself in a Shakespearian universe? At northern Europe’s largest Renaissance castle, Kronborg has been famously immortalised as Elsinore in the English writer’s play, Hamlet, and has plenty of cultural offerings. Enter the castle and admire the timeless beauty of the Kronborg Tapestries, a Danish royal family history woven in silk and yarn. Nevertheless, the highlight of the castle’s interior is represented by a 60-metre long ballroom, embellished with paintings, gildings, brass chandeliers and an elegant marble floor. Follow actor Beate Bille as the royal housekeeper on a guided tour as she inspects the castle before King Frederik II hosts a sumptuous party. This history lesson is not complete until you wander around the Casemates, dreary underground passages that saved the lives of many during wars, and gaze at the statue of Holger Danske, a Danish mythical hero who, as the legend depicts, lies asleep right under the castle. MARITIME HISTORY AND MODERN ARCHITECTURE Maritime Museum of Denmark, Ny Kronborgvej 1, Helsingør; open Tue-Sun 11:0017:00; 110kr, under-18s free adm; info@ mfs.dk; mfs.dk

PHOTO: CPHMUSEUMS.COM

Described as a cutting edge cultural venue by the New York Times, the Maritime Museum of Denmark sits in front of Kronborg Castle. The award-winning museum has been listed by the BBC and

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National Geographic among the world’s greatest new museums, and it’s an attraction that should be on the must-see list of every architecture and history enthusiast. None other than Bjarke Ingels Group was behind the majestic project, transforming an old concrete dry dock into a new type of urban composition. However, it is not only the mind-boggling architecture that will astound you, as its content will also certainly live up to your expectations. Its eight permanent exhibitions depict 600 years of Danish maritime history in an innovative and interactive way, from displaying the sailors’ most common items on board to presenting a world of navigational instruments and an exquisite collection of model ships.

PHOTO: CPHMUSEUMS.COM

WAY OUT OF AFRICA Karen Blixen Museum, Rungsted Strandvej 111, Rungsted Kyst; open Tue-Sun 10:0017:00, closed Mon; 75kr, under-14s free adm, guided tours by appointment; blixen.dk Have you ever wondered what the writer of Babette’s Feast and Out of Africa’s home and final resting place looks like? The Karen Blixen Museum, located about 30 minutes north of Copenhagen, is the beautiful dwelling where the Danish writer was born and to which she returned after her 17 years in Africa. Explore the life and work of Karen Blixen together with her original scripts – charcoal drawings and African paintings as well as biographies and letters are presented in a serene and intimate atmosphere. The rooms where Karen lived are almost intact, while some of the furniture was brought from her African farm, such as Denys Finch Hatton’s favourite chair and the chest she was given by her butler, Farah Designed according to Blixen’s wish, the site is a woodland bird sanctuary with a vast flower garden and grove. At the foot of a picturesque hill, you will find Karen Blixen’s grave beneath a large beech tree.

PHOTO: CPHMUSEUMS.COM

SPOT THE LIGHT BETWEEN THE SEAS Nakkehoved Lighthouse, Fyrvejen 25A, Gilleleje; visits by appointment; 6181 5803, erd@museumns.dk Travelling around the north coast of Zealand, in the area around the authentic fishing village of Gilleleje, you will discover the lighthouse of Nakkehoved. Learn about the rich history of the Danish lighthouse – its development from the era of Frederik II in the 16th century to its present automation. You will learn

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thought-provoking facts. Do not miss the chance to climb to the top: the view is absolutely spectacular! The elegant natural elements of the lighthouse were motifs for many artists throughout the ages. The slow sunsets over the sea are compelling, as crimson colours create a momentous atmosphere around the lighthouse. Come and discover with your own eyes why the idyllic scene from the lighthouse served as an artistic inspiration!

F A M I LY

AUTHOR: JOSEPHINE LAU JESSEN

Family adventures around the city Copenhagen is a family-friendly city. Everywhere you see parents with strollers playing with their kids at the local playgrounds, at coffee shops or on their way to one of the many activities the city offers for the entire family. It can be overwhelming assessing your possibilities, so allow Copenhagen Museums & Attractions to be your guide on a summer’s day dedicated to indulging your little ones!

09:00 − LOCAL GEMS IN NØRREBRO Start your day off on one of the most vibrant and trendy streets of the neighbourhood: Jægersborggade. In the morning, you can smell pastries being made at the little bakery Meyers Bageri (meyersmad. dk). Try out kanelsnurrer, a Danish cinnamon-bun pastry and local favourite. Enjoy breakfast outside and soak up the lively morning atmosphere on the street. Making a start on Jægersborggade is never complete without a visit to Assistensens Kirkegård (assistens.dk), the most famous cemetery in Copenhagen and a popular hangout spot for locals. Stroll through and visit the graves of renowned Danes such as the fairy-tale writer and father of the Little Mermaid, Hans Christian Andersen. 10:00 − LIVING AS A CIRCUS ARTIST Experience some circus magic and trace the steps of clowns and ballerinas at the Circus Museum (cirkusmuseet.dk). The museum is located a little outside the city, but it is definitely worth the travel. The staff are former circus performers and they will tell you stories about the animals and artists who shaped the history of Danish circus. On the first Sunday of every month, you can try out life as a circus artist and challenge each other in a variety of activities, like learning how to juggle, testing your strength with the trapeze, or walking on a tightrope. PHOTO: CIRKUSMUSEET.DK

TH E COPE NH AG E N POST TO U RI S M M AGAZI NE • SUMMER 2018

13:00 − LUNCH ON THE PIER On your way to your next cultural experience, stop by La Banchina (labanchina.dk) for lunch on the progressive island of Refshaleøen. Let your feet, big or small, take a rest on the pier, facing the sun and Copenhagen Harbour. The restaurant has lots of space to relax and it never gets boring to look at the many amazing ships sailing by. The menu is a simple yet creative mix of seasonal, organic vegetables and fish.

14:00 − ALL ABOARD THE SUB Have you ever wondered what it would be like to sleep or eat on a big ship or a submarine? Thanks to the National Museum, you can experience life on board three vessels that participated in the Cold War (natmus.dk). Try out the sailors’ bunks, sit in their kitchen and get an insight into their daily lives during what is a fascinating and historical experience for the entire family. The vessels are located at Holmen where the Navy still operates, so you might even see the sailors during their training. 17:00 − DINNER AT THE AQUARIUM Not far from Refshaleøen you will find the Blue Planet (denblaaplanet.dk). The unique location combined with its stunning architecture creates an all-encompassing experience for the senses. Watch the spectacular feeding of the sharks and let the evening pass by as you discover creatures of every colour and shape from the coral reef to the Arctic. End the day by having dinner at Restaurant Great Tang (greattang.dk) overlooking Øresund. Dine and relax after a long day of adventure. For more inspiration, visit Copenhagen Museums & Attractions at cphmuseums.com

PHOTO: DENBLAAPLANET.DK

THE COPEN HAGE N P O ST TO UR I S M M AGAZ I N E • S U MME R 2 0 1 8

PERFORMANCE

PHOTO: CPH OPERA FESTIVAL

PHOTO: HAMLETSCENEN.DK

PHOTO: VIKINGESPIL.DK

VIKINGESPIL

HAMLET LIVE Kronborg Castle, Helsingør; kongeligeslotte.dk Kronborg Castle’s immersive theatre production ‘Hamlet Live’ (ongoing until August 31) returns for a third successive year following popular and acclaimed performances since its debut in 2016. Visitors can walk through the castle and experience scenes played out in the actual places Shakespeare imagined them happening. (OR) VIKINGESPIL ongoing, ends July 15, Tue-Sat 20:00, Sun 16:00; Havnegade 5A, Frederikssund; 190kr; vikingespil.dk The Frederikssund Viking Village is putting on its annual Viking play to once again give visitors a glimpse of life during the Viking age. The main focus is a theatrical performance and this year’s theme is Harald Bluetooth’s conversion to Christianity. Since their debut in 1952, the performances have proved popular with all ages. (OR) COPENHAGEN OPERA FESTIVAL July 29-Aug 12; various venues; operafestival.dk The Copenhagen Opera Festival strives to find new spaces for the genre, inhabiting the urban landscape, spreading world-class arias across the streets, canals, transport routes and buildings of the city. And once again the organisers have put together a line-up consisting of both established and new opera acts. (OR) COPENHAGEN SUMMER FESTIVAL July 29-Aug 9; Charlottenborg Festsal, Kongens Nytorv, Cph K; copenhagensummerfestival.dk For 12 days gifted national and international musicians will perform classical and modern compositions at the Copenhagen Summer Festival. The festival brings together award-winning composers and musicians along with the most exciting young talents on the classical scene today. (OR) LA SYLPHIDE ongoing, ends July 20; Tivoli, Cph K; adm with entry to Tivoli; tivoli.dk Performed in Tivoli’s Pantomine Theatre, ‘La Sylphide’ is an intense ballet exploring the consequences of forsaking one’s duty and honour. This condensed version of the world famous performance is not one to miss. Check out Tivoli’s website for show times. (AJ)

COPENHAGEN OPERA FESTIVAL

PIERROT THE SORCERER ongoing, ends Aug 29; Tivoli, Cph K; adm with entry to Tivoli; tivoli.dk A fantastic tale of magic, love, and greed, this play is sure to please adults and children alike. Follow Pierrot on his quest to win Columbine’s heart, which is made all the harder by her evil father. (AJ) THE STEADFAST TIN SOLDIER ongoing, ends Aug 19; Tivoli, Cph K; adm with entry to Tivoli; tivoli.dk Tivoli’s fifth Hans Christian Andersen fairy-tale ballet, ‘The Steadfast Tin Soldier’, is the story of a one-legged tin soldier who loves a ballerina on the musical box next door. Immersed in a world of fantasy and adventure, audience members are sure to fall in love with this ballet. (AJ) SHAKESPEARE AND ME July 27-28, 19:00; Elsinore Play House, Stengade 51, Helsingor; 150kr Touching on issues such as politics, gender, and religion, ‘Shakespeare and Me’ follows the protagonist Agnes in her attempt to shake the misogynistic Hungarian theatre community. Feminist writer Rani Drew presents a play that critically examines what it means to be female in present day Europe as well as within the text of the Bard. (AJ) HAMLET: THE REVENGE OF PRINCE ZI DAN Aug 1-5; Kronborg Castle; 140-410kr; hamletscenen.dk; subtitles in English The renowned Shanghai Peking Opera Company brings Shakespeare’s ‘Hamlet’ to the stage at Kronborg Castle. Play-goers are sure to be entertained by the Chinese singing, acrobatics and comedy that sets this version of ‘Hamlet’ apart from the rest. (AJ) SEARCHING FOR WILLIAM Aug 5-8; Kronborg Castle; hamletscenen.dk; 140-410kr Acclaimed actor and singer Christian Freidel and the band Woods of Birnam perform ‘Searching for William’. Caught in between a concert and play, the characters of Hamlet, Macbeth, and Puck interact in a visual and poetic’ performance. (AJ) PASSAGE FESTIVAL July 27-Aug 4; Helsingør & Helsingborg, Sweden; free adm; passagefestival.nu This international street theatre festival is unique. Taking over various locations, in residential areas as well as on the main streets of the Danish and Swedish cities, the performers will turn the metropolis into one big stage.

HAMLET: THE REVENGE OF PRINCE ZI DAN

NEW YORK CITY BALLET Aug 15-19; Tivoli, Cph K; 335kr; tivoli.dk For the ninth time, the world-famous New York Ballet will perform in the concert hall of Tivoli. Work from 12 ballets will be shown for what is sure to be an unforgettable night. Be sure to book soon – tickets are selling out fast and this is sure to be a sellout. (TW) IN A NUTSHELL July 11-Aug 19; Marionet Theatret, Kronprinsessegade 21, Cph K; free adm; marionetteatret.dk Young children will love the young squirrel Svend, who is on a quest to find a friend in the forest. Check the theatre’s website for show times. (AJ) MACBETH AT ROSENBORG Aug 28, 18:00; Rosenborg Castle gardens, Cph K; 100-265kr; adg-europe.coms Enjoy more Shakespeare-in-a-castle when a Munich-based troupe, the American Drama Group Europe, performs ‘Macbeth’ in the grounds of Rosenborg Slot. It’s a pit-stop on their annual Castle Tour of theatrical performances at stunning settings across Europe. (AJ)

COPENHAGEN SUMMER DANCE Aug 9-11; Ofelia Plads, Cph K; 90kr; teaterbilleter.dk Copenhagen will once again welcome ‘worldclass contemporary dance’ this August. Among those in action are an American ballet star and a Cuban ballet company. (TW) BLAM! Aug 30-Sep 3; Refshalevej 167, Cph K; 340kr This august, Kristján ingimarsson Company’s internationally successful performance BLAM! will be back in Copenhagen for the first time in six years. Don’t miss this comedic tale of four office workers transforming themselves into action heroes. (AJ) SEEBACH ongoing, ends July 29; Gamle Scene, Kongens Nytorv 9, Cph K; seebachmusical.dk Taking the audience through 50 years of Danish music, this new Danish-language musical showcases the work and lives of father and son duo Tommy and Rasmus Seebach. (TW) GISELLE Aug 31-Nov 11; Gamle Scene, Kongens Nytorv 9, Cph K; kglteater.dk; 100-625kr First performed in Paris in 1841, this romantic ballet has everything audiences could ask for: mystery, adventure and a love story. (AJ)

TH E COPE NH AG E N POST TO U RI S M M AGAZI NE • SUMMER 2018

Int

PHOTO: JF WILLUMSEN MUSEUM

ARTS

PHOTO: ED RUSCHA & GAGOSIAN

PHOTO: DAKOTA HIGGINS

COLOURS AND STRIPES

COLOURS AND STRIPES ongoing, ends 13 Jan 2019; arken.dk The work of controversial Danish artist JF Willumsen is on display at Arken, portraying his strong use of colour and imaginative imagery. The exhibition will feature works from the artist’s seven-decade spanning career. (OR) LOVE STORY ongoing, ends Sep 9; arken.dk Candice Breitz’s latest video installation looks at the relationship between storytelling and empathy and how we as listeners interact with both a story and the person telling it. (OR) DEAR PLANET ongoing, ends Aug 26; arken.dk Arken launches its 2018 edition of the annual summer installation. This year the focus will be on the changing world and the effects of climate change, and it will feature work from Astrid Myntekær and Amalie Smith. (OR) VERY ongoing, ends Aug 18; louisiana.dk The work of Ed Ruscha focuses on symbols of post-WWII American society. The exhibition will feature the artist’s take on logos used in Hollywood and gas station signs. (OR)

VERY

SONG 1 ongoing, ends Dec 30; cphco.org Doug Aitken’s latest installation is a piece of video art centred around the jazz standard ‘I Only Have Eyes For You’. The hypnotic piece features Hollywood stars and singers offering their own interpretation. (OR) NEW ‘BAD’ PAINTING ongoing, ends July 7; v1gallery.com This group exhibition showcases works that explore the concept of ‘bad’ painting. Honouring the 40th anniversary of the first bad painting show, the art will challenge the existing notions of art. (OR) THE MAGIC OF VINYL, TERROR & HORROR ongoing, ends 19 Aug; denfrie.dk Using vinyl, hi-fi equipment and furniture, this exhibition looks at the process of deconstructing existing objects and creating something new. The exhibition is the work of Camilla Sørensen and Greta Christensen who have become known for their idiosyncratic approach. (OR)

SONG 1

IEROGLYPHS: SYMBOLIST DRAWINGS 1890-1910 ongoing, ends Aug 12; smk.dk This exhibition explores a period when symbolism became an important driving force behind art in Denmark. The works included will feature artists such as JF Willumsen, Jens Lund and Johannes Holbek. (OR) ULLA JOKISALO & HILLA KURKI: THE LOG LADY ongoing, ends Aug 12; fotografiskcenter.dk Two Finnish photographers from different generations come together for this collaborative work. The two combine to present works that intend to get a dialogue started. (OR) DECORATION OF THE MONTANA ROOM ongoing, ends Feb 2019; glstrand.dk Danish artist duo Randi and Katrine present their newest work, which aims to set a scene and narrative with a humoristic element. This time the two draw inspiration from the macaw. (OR)

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PHOTO: FACEBOOK PAGE

EVENTS PHOTO: KRISTOFFER JUEL POULSEN

CPH JAZZ FESTIVAL

THORVALDSEN MARKET every Fri & Sat, 08:00-17:00; Thorvaldsen Plads 2, Cph K This treasure trove of antiques and collectables is not very big, but fans of Danish design with a keen eye will certainly be able to seek out some gems here. If not, the setting alone is enough to visit. (TW) NØRREBROGADE MARKET every Sat 07:00-15:00; Nørrebrogade, Cph N Dubbed Denmark’s longest flea market, you are sure to find something along this 333-metre stretch, which runs alongside the famous Assistens Kirkegard graveyard. Typical goodies include vintage furniture, art and watches. (TW) GENTOFTE MARKET every Sun 08:00-14:00; Bregnegårdsvej, Gentofte Some 3,000 people flock to this market every Sunday in the hope they can nab some Royal Copenhagen porcelain or second-hand designer goods at a fraction of the price. Plenty of antiques and vintage pieces make this worth the trip. (TW) FREDERIKSBERG MARKET every Sat 09:00-15:00; Smallegade, Frederiksberg This sprawling market offers everything from clothing and books to furniture and antiques. Located near Frederiksberg’s city hall, it’s the perfect area for a Saturday wander and a great place to grab a bargain. (TW) COPENHAGEN JAZZ FESTIVAL July 6-15; multiple locations in Cph; prices vary; jazz.dk The city’s annual celebration of jazz returns, once again bringing some of the world’s finest musicians. Events will be spread throughout the city at a diverse range of venues. (OR) VALBY SUMMER JAZZ July 6-14; various locations in Valby; prices vary; cowbellmusic.dk Serving as a kind of side-festival to the larger Copenhagen edition, the Valby version aims to capture the same essence but on a more intimate level. (OR) FRIDAY NIGHT SKATE July 6, 13 & 27, Aug 10 & 24, Sep 7 & 21, 20:0022:15; starts at Solbjerg Plads, Frederiksberg; free adm; fns-cph.dk A fun way to experience the city on a summer evening, Friday Night Skate through 20km of Copenhagen is a great way to hang out with friends.

WAKEBOARDING CHAMPIONSHIP

PHOTO: GALOPBANE.DK

FC HELSINGØR VS CRYSTAL PALACE July 12; Nordre Strandvej 11, Helsingør; 100kr Although the football season may be over, there is still plenty to enjoy during the summer. Recently relegated FC Helsingør will face off against English Premier League outfit Crystal Palace. The Elite 3000 vs the Eagles! (OR) MOVE COPENHAGEN July 12-15; Refshalevej 151, Cph K; ticket prices vary; movecopenhagen.com Celebrating the diversity of movement over several days, the festival hosts over 100 workshops to teach subjects such as slacklining, yoga and parkour. (AJ) MULATU ASTATKE July 13-14; Alice, Nørre Allé 7, Cph N; from 300kr One of the great innovators of Ethiopian jazz returns to Copenhagen following a sold out show in March. Mulatu Astatke brings his vast catalogue of music to perform for two nights. (OR) JAZZ CRUISE July 6-15, times vary; Nyhavn 1, Cph K; 160kr Come and see some sights while listening to some great music on a boat. Canal tours offers up jazz while you navigate the canals and harbour waters of Copenhagen. (OR) RITA’S BLUE FLEA MARKET July 22 & Aug 19, 12:00-17:00; Kulturhuset Indre By, Cph K Rita’s market attracts a younger crowd searching for vintage and second-hand clothing. Fight your way through the crowds to seek out some of that Scandi style. (TW) GILLELEJE FESTIVAL July 27-28; beta.gillelejefestival.dk Located in Gilleleje in the very north of Zealand, this year music fans can look forward to a line-up headed by Carpark North and Burhan G. (TW) WAKEBOARDING CHAMPIONSHIP Aug 1-4; Kraftværksvej 24, Cph K; free adm The country’s finest wakeboarders are coming together to compete for the bragging rights and title of Danish champion. So drop by and enjoy some (hopefully) good weather and high-level water sports. (OR) STELLA POLARIS Aug 4; Frederiksberg Have, Egernvej 4; free adm; stella-polaris.dk Frederiksberg’s biggest park will again be transformed into one large outdoor chill-out zone, with relaxed electronic music played throughout the day. Bring a picnic or fine dine on a four-course menu for just 200 kroner. (TW)

DANISH DERBY

COPENHAGEN HISTORIC GRAND PRIX Aug 4-5; Hulgårdsvej 72, Bellahøj; 300kr, under-18s: free adm; chgp.dk The ‘flagship of Danish Motorsports’ will once again take place in Bellahøj this year, offering the thrills and spills of the track, a splendid range of vintage cars, and fun for the youngsters. (TW) COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK Aug 7-10; various venues; copenhagenfashionweek.com Scandinavia’s largest fashion week mainly consists of industry events. But running alongside the runway and trade shows, there are a number of events geared towards fashion lovers, from free goodie bag promotions to the fabulous events on Strøget. (TW) STRØM FESTIVAL Aug 8-11; various venues in Cph; stromcph.dk Strøm’s 12th edition will once again offer electronic music fans a wide choice of events featuring big names from Denmark and the US at a number of eclectic venues, from nightclubs to churches. Most are free entry. (TW) CRAFTS AND DESIGN FAIR Aug 9-11; Bredgade 66, Cph K; free adm; dkod.dk This crafts and design fair is now in its 35th year and showing no sign of slowing down. Professionals and amateurs from all over Scandinavia will be there to showcase their pieces, including jewellery pieces and graphic design. (TW) MALMÖ FESTIVAL Aug 10-18; malmofestivalen.se If you’re looking for a getaway from Copenhagen life, head across the Øresund to a festival that bridges music, art, food and culture. With over 1.4 million visitors a year, it is the largest culture festival in Scandinavia. (OR) CPH PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA Aug 10 & 12, 10:30; Bakkehuset Museum, Rahbeks Alle, Frederiksberg; admission included in museum entry; copenhagenphil.dk The first concert promises to be an intimate affair as a soprano takes on sophisticated pieces by Vivaldi and Handel. The second couldn’t be more different: brass, loud, Danish! (TW) DANISH DERBY Aug 12, doors open 12:00; Klampenborg Galopbane, Klampenborgvej 52; 110kr; galopbane.dk They’re under starter orders for the 108th running of the Danish ‘classic’. Held just north of Copenhagen near the deer park, this is a great event for the whole family to attend. (TW)

TH E COPE NH AG E N POST TO U RI S M M AGAZI NE • SUMMER 2018

EVENTS

PHOTO: JØRGEN J HENRIKSEN

CPH PRIDE

COPENHAGEN WORLD MUSIC FESTIVAL Aug 13-Sep 5; multiple locations; tickets available from locations; cphworld.dk Copenhagen World Music Festival is back with a stellar line-up of world music at locations all over the city. (TW) COPENHAGEN PRIDE Aug 14-19; various venues; copenhagenpride.dk The largest human rights festival in Denmark is mostly held at Pride Square and Rådhuspladsen, offering a week of free concerts and shows that accumulate in a huge parade on Saturday the 18th. (TW) ARABIAN NIGHTS FESTIVAL Aug 18-Sep 10; Cinemateket, Gothersgade 55, Cph K; 80kr; dfi.dk For the fourth consecutive year, this festival will be celebrating good storytelling, acting and scenery through the medium of film. Alongside the viewings, there will be lectures, debates, music and more! (TW) KMD IRONMAN COPENHAGEN Aug 19; Amager Strandparken, Cph S; 4300kr at eu.ironman.com Watch some of the country’s fittest athletes push themselves to the limit in this world championship qualifier on a route that takes in some of Zealand’s most picturesque tourist spots. (TW) LOUISIANA LITERATURE Aug 23-26; Gl Strandvej 13, Humlebæk; louisiana.dk Louisiana Lit is returning to celebrate the best in contemporary literature from around the world. Various authors will be positioned around the museum in different settings, taking part in readings, songs and discussions. (OR) COPENHAGEN COOKING Aug 24-Sep 2; multiple venues in Copenhagen; copenhagencooking.dk Definitely one for the foodies, this festival includes hundreds of events, classes and tours – you could say it has an emphasis on learning as you eat. Many of the events are already sold out, so book your tickets now. (TW) COCKTAILS AND CAKES Aug 24-Sep 9, 13:00-17:00; Skt Petri, Krystalgade 22, Cph K; 150kr Enjoy organic cocktails paired with Danish petit fours during the Copenhagen Cooking festival. Danish berries, chocolates and pies are unmissable, especially when paired with artfully crafted cocktails. (AJ)

PHOTO: KULTURHAVN

CPH HARBOUR FESTIVAL

COPENHAGEN YOGA FESTIVAL Aug 24-26; Tiøren, Amager Strand, Cph S; 595795kr; copenhagenyogafestival.dk Running over three days, the festival is the perfect time to either try yoga for the first time or enhance your ongoing practice. This is a festival to share the joy of yoga across all levels and nationalities. (AJ) COPENHAGEN HARBOUR FESTIVAL Aug 24-26; kulturhavn.kk.dk With its long coastline and checkered history at sea, waterborne activities come second nature to the Danes. This festival will shine a light on the best that the city’s harbour areas have to offer with activities, games, music, dancing and water sports galore. (OR) SWOOP FREESTYLE WORLD CHAMPS Aug 24-25; Dronning Louises Bro, Cph N; free adm The Copenhagen Lakes will once again serve as the setting for this freestyle parachuting competition. Competitors from around the world will fly in and show off their skills to prove who is the best in the world. (OR) MAGNIFICENT CRAYFISH PARTY Aug 24, 18:00, Aug 25, 12:00, 15:00 & 18:00; Hav2GO at Torvehallerne, Frederiksborggade 21, Cph K; 250kr Sisse & Co from Hav2Go invite you to enjoy a Scandinavian crayfish dinner, where you can indulge in fresh crayfish cooked right in front of you. Eat at long, decorated tables while conversing with a diverse group of people, all united by their love of crayfish. (AJ) LÆSK BREWERY OPEN HOUSE Aug 25, 12:00-18:00; Læsk Brewery, Holmetoften 17, Hørsholm; free adm Peak inside the Læsk Brewery, where guests can see how the latest health food fad, kombucha tea, is made. Participate in tastings, try the many creations from the bar, and buy Kombucha at an extreme discount. (AJ) FINDERS KEEPERS DESIGN MARKET Aug 25-26; Øksnehallen, Cph V; finderskeepers.dk This huge indoor market brings together designers and traders in one place with an emphasis on design. The vendors are carefully selected by a panel of experts. It’s a great place to find furniture, jewellery, photography and more. (TW) MAKE YOUR OWN SCHNAPPS Aug 28-31, 16:30-17:30; Torvehallerne, Frederiksborggade 21, Cph; 250kr Learn how to make your own schnapps while exploring Danish history. From this event, you

THE COPEN HAGE N P O ST TO UR I S M M AGAZ I N E • S U MME R 2 0 1 8

PHOTO: PRESS PHOTO

CPH COOKING

will take home your own handmade bottle of seasoned schnapps. (AJ) COPENHAGEN SONGWRITERS FESTIVAL Aug 29-Sep 2; Onkel Dannys Plads, Cph V; csf.dk Celebrating its 10th anniversary, this festival focuses on the craft of songwriting, both in Denmark and abroad. Cited as Denmark’s ‘most hyggelig event’, this is one for music lovers looking for something different. (TW) PRESENTING JOAQUIN PALMARES Aug 29, 19:30; Julius Thomsen Gade 1, Cph N; free adm; copenhagenphil.dk Great things are expected of this Royal Danish Academy of Music graduate, the violinist Joaquin Palomares, who has arranged this twohour concert himself, including works by Bach and Mendelssohn. (TW) COPENHAGEN SOUL WEEKENDER Aug 30-Sep 2; various locations; for tickets email cphsoul@gmail.com This year marks the second ever Copenhagen Soul Weekender. Spread over four days at four different venues, Copenhagen is treated to an international line-up of gifted DJs playing music late into the night. (AJ) ZULU COMEDY GALA Aug 30-Sep 9; multiple locations; ticketmaster.dk Now in its ninth year, Copenhagen’s funniest week is back with more shows than ever. Choose your favourite comedian or go with a ‘comedy surprise’ – either way you’ll be laughing. (TW) YOUNG ACADEMY TALENTS Aug 31, 19:30; Rosenørns Allé 22, Cph N; free adm, limited seats; dkdm.dk A showcase for young talents from the Royal Danish Academy of Music – don’t miss the marimba player and cellist take on Schnittke and Scarlatti. (TW) TRODHEIM SOLOISTS Sep 4, 20:00; Black Diamond, Søren Kierkegaards Plads 1, Cph K; kb.dk Alisa Weilerstein, an award-winning cellist backed by an orchesta, will be play music by Haydn and Schønberg. Given the setting, this one will be hard to resist. (TW) GOLDEN DAYS Sep 8-23; multiple venues in Cph; goldendays.dk Every year the Golden Days Festival takes us on an exploration through history to look at forgotten oddities. This year’s focus is history’s ‘B-sides’, which it will examine through music, film, literature, theatre and architecture amongst many others. (OR)

R E STA U R A N T

AUTHOR: MALENE ØRSTED

Meet your NEW Danish godmother Restaurant Fridas might be the closest you will ever get to eating dinner at a Danish grandmother’s place. They serve what the Danes refer to as ‘mormor mad’ (grandmother food), and believe me, that’s a compliment. The place was established as a bodega in 1954, but in 2000, mother and daughter Lene and Camilla Palmberg turned the place into a restaurant. I was not surprised to find out the place is family-run. The homey feeling is in every detail, like the colourful leaded windows next to the bar. The food is traditional Danish in a way only the older generations in a family seem to master. And with beer from Jacobsen, it’s win-win all round. HOMELY AND NO HIPSTERS For starters we ordered pickled herring with raw egg yolk, onion and capers on rye bread, and also tartlets with chicken in asparagus. The tartlets were great and creamy with a crispy patty shell. All in all, it was a thumbs up and very much like my grandmother would have made them – so no complaints! The pickled herring on rye bread is one of the most popular Danish dishes – if you’re going to a Danish lunch/dinner, you will probably get a chance to try it. It is as traditional Danish as it gets. Though located in Vesterbro, there’s nothing hipster about Restaurant Fridas, but that does not mean the place isn’t popular. It was packed on a Thursday night but sedate. The people who come here are not in a hurry; they take their time, enjoy their food and seem to be easily adapting to the homey feel of the place. SWEET ON SCHNITZEL Before going I had read some great reviews of the restaurant’s wienerschnitzel, so that was an obvious choice for one of our main courses. Apparently in Jutland,

PHOTO: MALENE ØRSTED

close to Esbjerg, they call it an ‘elephant’s ear’, or so my friend told the waiter and me. He had never heard the expression, and neither had I. But I have to admit that when I saw my companion’s actual dish, the nickname seemed to fit. It was huge. I had the dish of the day, and although the lamb loin was delicious, I did feel a little food envy, but luckily there was more than enough for me to have a few bites of the schnitzel. TROUSER-SPLITTINGLY GOOD One thing’s for sure: you definitely get value for money at Restaurant Fridas. None of us managed to finish our main course. Not because it wasn’t tasty, but apparently there is such a thing as too much ‘potatoes and gravy’. So sadly, I didn’t get the banana split I had been eyeing on the dessert page since my arrival. It would have been the perfect way to end a nostalgic evening. I will simply have to come back and visit ‘grandmother’ more often.

PHOTO: MALENE ØRSTED

Restaurant Fridas SGammel Kongevej 5, Cph V; open daily 11:0023:00; lunch 12:00-15:30, dinner 17:00-21:30; food 69-198kr; beers 60kr; reservation 3331 6510; restaurantfridas.dk

TH E COPE NH AG E N POST TO U RI S M M AGAZI NE • SUMMER 2018

BRUNCH

AUTHOR: DOUGLAS WHITBREAD

NO LONGER IN BANDIT COUNTRY Where a sublime visual appeal is matched with refreshing tastes Café Baryl first opened in November 2016 on Griffenfeldsgade in Nørrebro – a part of the district that Adam Ørskov, one of the café’s owners, acknowledges was “a bit rough”. Among their neighbours were the notorious Loyal To Familia gang, who at the time were fighting violent nightly pitch-battles with local rivals. Nevertheless, Ørskov and business partner Sarah Madsen embraced their surroundings to produce a stylish and eye-catching café menu – under a moniker that befitted their locality (‘Baryl’ translates as ‘bandit’). Café Baryl Århusgade 78, Cph Ø; open 09:00-17:00; brunch plate 119kr, lunch plate 129kr; baryl.dk

PHOTO: DOUGLAS WHITBREAD

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SUAVE AESTHETICS A little over six months ago, they decided to leave the community and move instead to Århusgade in the plush neighbourhood of Østerbro. Despite this transition, when I dropped by the new location in early March I was distinctly reminded of the old premises. The basic materials used to furnish the interior of the Nørrebro café, such as concrete, steel, wood and stone, have once more been adopted at the new site to create a functional yet alluring dining space. These minimalist industrial components are pleasantly broken up by the natural green hues of ferns and plantain leaves that line each of the café’s wide street-level windows. Collectively, the setting evokes the subtle elegance of a contemporary design studio. However, upon reflection this seems to have always been the clear intention of the owners. From the outset, Ørskov and Madsen have made careful aesthetic choices so that their food – harbouring what can only be described as true artistic merit – can take centre stage. EYE-WATERING CUISINE The menu is consciously limited to six different dishes served throughout the day. Each of these give prominence to an aspect of the café’s culinary repertoire. However, the ‘morgenbaryl’, costing 119 kroner, has been specifically crafted with brunch in mind. The arrival is guaranteed to send Instagrammers into a frenzy. But while it is an epic visual presentation, it tastes even better than it looks. The dish centres on a bowl of chia or skyr pudding, topped with a delicate coconut-infused soy whip and fresh fruit. Next to it sits sliced avocado layered on rye, upon which is spread a sublime homemade carrot humus – topped with a boiled egg. Alongside this is pulled hot smoked salmon on a mildly spiced crisp bread with accompanying raw pea shoots. The dish is finished with garnishes of almonds, olives, watercress, orange and pomegranate. This is, in essence, a beautifully executed and well-balanced celebration of modern healthy cuisine, which even those possessing a strong scepticism of contemporary food trends will find hard not to enjoy. BEST OF BOTH WORLDS The original concept behind Café Baryl’s menu was that the food should not only look incredible, it should also be delectable to taste. This is what made it so novel and exciting to many Copenhageners. At their new site, they’ve not only continued this mandate but been able to enhance it in a space where their customers are no longer required to rub shoulders with the local gangsters.

BAR

AUTHOR: BEN HAMILTON

PHOTO: TIPSY MERMAID

Admiral ale alchemy You’re sedately chugging down a canal in rural England, pipe in mouth and wheel in hand, keeping a wary eye out for hullabaloos; you’re traversing the white water rapids of the Zambezi under the gaze of natives on the river bank secretly hoping you’ll smash into smithereens; you’re nervously crouching in the cabin as a Messerschmitt Bf 109 looms into view on the horizon, quietly cursing your decision to head to France to rescue soldiers who are probably already dead. Okay, I stole the last scenario from ‘Dunkirk’, but you get the idea: sitting in a boat stirs the imagination, and mine goes into overdrive from the moment I step aboard this wooden hull fishing boat, which is now a floating mecca for connoisseurs of craft beer. Moored in Copenhagen Harbour, it is just around the corner from Nyhavn and a stone’s throw from the city’s busiest cycle bridge. Most bars use music to rock their establishments – but The Tipsy Mermaid doesn’t need a jukebox. Poseidon and his trident, an unmistakable maritime breeze and the occasional squawking seagull are here to ensure the seaborne symphony never stops. And who needs Stormzy when you’ve got a vibrating floor? SALUTING CAPTAIN DARBY The pub on a tub is the brainchild of Richard Darby, a Brit who arrived on the crest of the craft beer wave long before

it crashed on the beach amidst the discarded chalk of a zillion whiteboards. Darby launched the presciently-named The Lord Nelson in a dimly-lit premises on Hyskenstræde in 2005, from where it has served the finest Danish microbrews it can lay its hands on – including the hands-down best IPAs I’ve drunk anywhere in the world! But after all those years in a basement, it’s no wonder the publican who saw the light before his peers is seeking a little bit for himself. Onboard the Mermaid is a bracing, uplifting experience, and the energised barmaid on duty told me how pleased she was when the Nelson’s staff divided like the pieces on a chess board: to stay at home at the admiralty or embark on the Seven Seas. Their new workplace has led an active life since its construction in 1967, sailing the North Sea under a number of different aliases before settling on Molly – the name of the owner’s dog (a recipe for disaster in the case of the Dambusters). Renamed and permanently moored, Darby and his crew take pride in maintaining her seaworthiness – not least her 385 horsepower engine. ESCAPE FROM THE CAULDRON Like at the Nelson, the craft beer range are all produced at Danish microbreweries, and there’s an impressive 19 on tap (and three more at the onshore bar).

PHOTO: ANNA JUUL

Tipsy Mermaid Havenegade 50, Cph K open Mon-Thu from 14:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, Sun 12:00-22:00, beers 60-65kr

Given that it’s a hot day, we follow the landlord’s recommendation and opt for a Fynsk Forår, a wheat beer made with elderflower that wouldn’t normally be on my radar. It’s refreshing qualities are a revelation, although the airy deck also plays a part in the respiratory respite I feel from escaping the cauldron I have just escaped from. That in a nutshell is the allure of The Tipsy Mermaid: we are in the centre of this vibrant city in view of thousands of people, but detached from their reality courtesy of one step across a plank and (as Baldrick said) “the big blue wobbly thing that mermaids live in” beneath our feet. Refreshed we make a beeline for the pale ales – because we’re predictable and don’t know too much after craft beers. The Fopdoodle is a mango pale ale – fruity, feisty, fabulous – while the Flying Cloud IPA is another of those unmentionables that once partaken cannot be shaken. We settle in at our vantage point, surveying a harbour that bustles with life on summer’s day like these. For the kind of quick getaway that only a Bond villain knows how to make, and beers championing the very best of Danish, this pub is hard to beat. Whisper it, but it’s too late ... they’re going to need a bigger boat.

TH E COPE NH AG E N POST TO U RI S M M AGAZI NE • S UMMER 2018

REVIEWS

BRUNCH

PHOTO: FACEBOOK

BOWL MARKET Gasværksvej 3, Cph V; open daily 07:30-18:00; risotto: 80kr, porridge 75kr, acai is 80kr; 2482 6090 Monarch among the Instagrammable dishes is the bowl – the neat arrangement of an aesthetically garnished dish seems to hold as much value in social influence as it does physical sustenance. Bowl Market gets this. A look at its Instagram page evidences its understanding: a scrolling catalogue packed with a menagerie of manicured oatmeal, grains, fruits, nuts and healthy-leaning garnishes. We recommend the acai bowl featuring the new superfood from Brazil that everyone’s raving about. It’s like a thick smoothie topped with oatmeal and acai berries that tastes like ice cream. But it’s good for you. (AH) RESTAURANT

PHOTO: CAMILLE MAJA CHRISTENSEN

SIDECAR Skyttegade 5, Cph N; open Mon-Fri from 08:00, Sat-Sun from 09:30, open late Tue-Sun; breakfast/brunch (without drinks) 149165kr Sidecar’s hybrid culture sees it start the day as a cosy coffee and brunch spot, sell smørrebrød and salads at lunch, before finishing the day as a lively Asian street-food and cocktail joint. When we visited, it was for brunch (options include vegan), and we immediately felt at home among the light wood and bright colour tones that create an airy and palatial space. The beetroot pesto, homemade humus and chickpea waffle delighted with their elegance and simplicity, while the breakfast plate ‘with all the good stuff’ – eggs, sausages, crispy bacon – was unrecognisable from the standard fare at a greasy spoon. (DW) RESTAURANT

PHOTO: FACEBOOK

RESTAURANT MANGAL Flæsketorvet 50, Cph V; open Tue-Fri from 17:00, Sat-Sun from 10:00, until 24:00 Fri-Sat; mains 150kr; restaurantmangal.com A restaurant serving Turkish street food alongside cocktails in the Meatpacking District – I couldn’t wait to try it out! Modern and sleek inside, with comfortable seating on different levels and an open kitchen, Mangal has left its street food origins well behind. The menu consists of traditional charcoal grilled plates and refined dishes like the fish and artichoke stew. Start with the hummus – the smoothest I’ve had – and spicy sausage, and finish with the rice pudding. Don’t skimp on the cocktails; with names like ‘Sleepless in Istanbul’, they pack a punch to perfectly round off the evening at this sleek, modern restaurant. (TW) THE COPEN HAGE N P O ST TO UR I S M M AGAZ I N E • S U MME R 2 0 1 8

REVIEWS

CAFE

ICE CREAM

PHOTO: TESS WESTBROOK

BACCHOUSE CAFE Sølvgade 84, Cph K; open Tue-Fri from 08:30, until 20:00 most days, closed Mon; 89kr for four items Located on a perfectly sunny corner, this charming café oozes warmth with its décor of mismatched chairs and tables, comfy sofas and large windows. For brunch they offer a selection of around 20 items, from dairy to pastry to meat to vegetables to fruit. Choose four to eight items – perfect for those who are indecisive! The food comes on Victorian-style tea trays and is the perfect balance and amount. The avocado toast is particularly great, as is the fried eggs with asparagus. This is a great place to go if you are looking for variety – helpfully taking away that ordering dilemma of choosing the right thing. (TW)

PHOTO: FACEBOOK

BON BON ICE Andebakkesti 4, Frederiksberg; open MonFri 13:00-21:00, Fri-Sun 12:00-21:00; cones 30kr, coffees 28-38kr; bonbonice.dk Baby Bear couldn’t decide between the White Coffee Hazelnut, White Chocolate Basil or Belgian Callebaut Choc Stracciatella with Amarena cherries & dark chocolate, so she scoffed the lot. “I’m sorry Jægerspris, it’s not my fault, but this is better,” she said, licking her fingers. Teenager Bear was in agreement – for once. “Sometimes when you eat ice cream you can’t identify the flavour, but here you can really taste it,” she said. And Daddy Bear couldn’t resist the jumbo-sized Belgian waffle served with soft ice. But he hadn’t banked on his little bears transforming into Goldilocks and … we think you know how this ends. (BH)

NEXT DOOR CAFE Larsbjørnsstræde 23, Cph K; open MonFri 07:00-18:00, Sat-Sun 09:00-18:00; coffee from 30kr; nextdoorcafe.dk This small cafe located in the heart of the city, just a minute’s walk from Rådhuspladsen in the Latin Quarter, offers a great atmosphere, friendly service and perhaps even the best coffee in the whole of Copenhagen. You can come in, grab a coffee and sit by the street observing the lively neighbourhood the café calls home. Everything offered is homemade (except for the croissants!) with a variety of sandwiches, breakfast foods and baked goods that should be enough to keep you going throughout the whole day. If coffee is not your thing, they also have a large tea selection and make a variety of delicious juices. (OR)

RESTAURANT

RESTAURANT/BAR

CAFE

PHOTO: FACEBOOK

GASOLINE GRILL Landgreven 10, Cph K; open daily from 11:00; burgers from 75kr; gasolinegrill.com The debate surrounding the best burger in Copenhagen may finally be over. This small but popular establishment was recently named the best burger joint on AOK’s ‘Byens Bedste’ list, with Bloomberg even including it on its world’s best selection. Located in an old gas station, Gasoline Grill’s special take on the burger has generated long lines and a dedicated following. Its burgers sit somewhere in the middle of the homemade-gourmet spectrum, but they have that little something that gives them an edge over the competitors. The food is served until they run out, so make sure you get there early! (OR)

CAFE

RAMEN TO BIIRU Griffenfeldsgade 28, Cph N; open MonThu 12:00-21:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sunday 12:00-22:00; rammen from 100kr; ramentobiiru.dk Located in Nørrebro, Ramen to Biiru provides a Japanese-style dining experience focusing on expedience and, of course, delicious food. A collaboration between the brewer Mikkeller and the Bento restaurant and cocktail bar, this is a marriage of good quality ramen and the finest microbrews. You enter and are greeted by a ticket machine that takes your order off a menu offering a choice of four different ramen dishes. You can choose between pork, fish or vegetarian options, as well as something spicy. The restaurant does not accept reservations, but you are welcome to come and sit or collect. (OR)

SMAGSLØGET Nørregade 38, Cph K; open daily 10:0022:00, open Friday night 22:00-05:00; sandwiches from 85kr; smagsloeget.dk Located a stone’s throw away from Nørreport Station, this sandwich shop is a hidden gem, although its small location is easy to miss on the busy street it’s located on. But those few who decide to take a step inside will be met with high quality sandwiches and a charming atmosphere. The shop uses high quality bread and fresh ingredients to create something a little more special than your average sandwich. The menu includes traditional Danish fare such as flæskesteg as well as meats from all over the world and plenty of vegetarian options. Our recommendation is the ham and brie cheese with bacon and homemade salsa. (OR)

TH E COPE NH AG E N POST TO U RI S M M AGAZI NE • SUMMER 2018

BRUNCH

AUTHOR: ANNA JUUL

Worth knocking down walls for PHOTO: US DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE

There is no shortage of cafes in Copenhagen, but Europa 1989 easily rises above the fray, distinguishing itself as one of the best places in Denmark to start your day. Located in Amagertorv, the bustling central square of Strøget, the café is surrounded by high-end stores such as Louis Vuitton and Hermes, giving the location an air of luxury. The many mild mornings of summer in Denmark allow café-goers to sit outside where they can sip on their coffee and admire the pedestrian heartbeat of Copenhagen.

PHOTO: ANNA JUUL

Cafe Europa 1989 Amagertorv 1, Cph K; open Mon-Sat 07:45-23:00, Sun 09:00-22:00 brunch menu 169-269kr, open sandwiches 89-129kr, mains 149-229kr; europa1989.dk

COFFEE AND CHAMPAGNE The coffee is, on its own, enough to distinguish the café. The cappuccino is not only nice to look at, with its flowered foam top, but it is also impossibly rich, striking the perfect balance between bitter and creamy. The cappuccino is joined in its excellence by the café’s Americano – both are works of coffee art. If you do not subscribe to coffee culture, there are a number of different options to turn to. Four different types of champagne are available, as well as mimosas and ‘Bloody Marys’. The Danes don’t hesitate to begin drinking early and often, but if you find yourself averse to a midday hangover or hair of the dog, the café also offers orange and apple juice. A BRUNCH TO REMEMBER Among the highlights on the breakfast

menu are an eggs Benedict and muesli with yoghurt, berries and almonds. However, if one wants a really hearty breakfast, it is best to turn to the brunch menu. At my last visit to Europe 1989, I tried the brunch spread. It included skyr with fresh berries and maple syrup, cheese and quince marmalade, a mini omelette with bacon, Karl Johan mushrooms and lingonberries, a Nordic hotdog with mustard and glazed onions, smoked salmon with smoked cheese cream and rye crackers, and fresh fruit. The length of that sentence is reflective of the true strength of the brunch spread. Big enough to share between two, the spread offers a variety of tastes and textures that give a glimpse into a true Danish breakfast.

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SALTY AND SWEET The skyr with berries and maple syrup is sweet and simple – nothing unusual, but enjoyable nonetheless. The true adventures are found in the mini omelette and Nordic hotdog. The omelette combines bacon and cranberries – a truly unique combination that changed the way I want to make omelettes at home. Similarly, the Nordic hotdog is spectacular and innovative. Normally I would shrink from having a hotdog first thing in the morning, but this particular sausage made me reconsider my traditional brunch standards. Finally, I recommend finishing the meal with the fresh fruit—the sweetness of the bowl offers the perfect conclusion to a meal that was bursting with savoury richness.

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