CPH POST Vist Post Autumn 2018

AUTUMN 2018 CPHPOST.DK

TAKE A DIP IN DENMARK Its hidden depths will leave you hungry for more

PHOTO: CHRIS LAWTON

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WELCOME

WELCOME TO COPENHAGEN - A GREEN AND DIVERSE CITY Several times now the Danish capital has been voted the world’s best city to live in – and with good reason.

I would especially recommend renting a bike and visiting the many different parts of the city: from diverse and multicultural Nørrebro to the natural beauty of Amager Fælled and the pretty routes alongside the harbour.

INFORMATION GALORE

The staff of the Copenhagen Visitor Centre, the city’s official tourist information centre, are ready to point you, your family and friends in the direction of exciting experiences in Copenhagen and in the whole of the Greater Copenhagen area.

PLENTY TO OFFER

Copenhagen has a great deal to offer: from green spaces and intimate public squares to excellent possibilities for biking and a wide range of exciting world-class cultural and culinary experiences.

Copenhagen is a popular tourist destination and, as deputy mayor for culture and leisure, I’m very pleased that so many people choose to visit our lovely city. There are masses of things to experience, whether it’s the classic tourist sights such as the Little Mermaid, visiting art exhibitions, or enjoying delicious food in Kødbyen.

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Copenhagen Visitor Centre in Vesterbro is the only tourist information centre in Denmark where you can get a unique and experience-orientated understanding of the city through virtual reality.

You can also obtain tourist information at the following places in town: ENIGMA, Frederiksberg Centret, Rådhusoplysningen, Denmark’s National Gallery SMK, the National Museum, Illum, Copenhagen’s main public library, Østerbro’s public library, Ørestad’s public library and Tivoli.

In addition, you can access a digital tourist guide, Copenhagen Visitor Guide, on your mobile.

ONWARDS TO CHRISTMAS

Copenhagen is no longer a one-season tourist season. Thanks to the famous festive appeal of Tivoli and the extraordinary range of Christmas markets the capital has to offer, along with cold-weather activities such as winter bathing and skating in the park, we are now attracting visitors all year round.

I’m very happy to bid you welcome to Copenhagen – a green and diverse city.

Enjoy your stay!

Niko Grünfeld Deputy mayor for culture and leisure

FIVE RECOMMENDATIONS Best place to relax: Amager Fælled or other green areas in the city Best place to eat: communal eating at Absalon’s Church on Vesterbro Best place to drink/go out: enjoy the view and atmosphere at Dronning Louise’s Bridge Best place to take the family: a trip around the canals in Copenhagen harbour. Copenhagen is really special when seen from the water.

Insider’s tip: a tour around City Hall – a historic story about the city and its architecture.

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crazy christmas 2018 Vivienne McKee presents

Glassalen, Tivoli Nov 13th 2018 - Jan 5th 2019 Tickets: 3315 1001 Billetten.dk · billetlugen.dk · teaterbilletter.dk THE COP EN HAGEN PO ST TO UR I S M M AGAZ I N E • AU T U MN 2 0 1 8 LTT.Cph Post.212x288.250918.indd 1

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AUTHOR: MATHILDE ZAAVI

Copen‘haven’: taking a wander Where the locals find refuge away from the hustle and the bustle of city-life Copenhagen is certainly not short of amazing places to get a coffee or drink, take a break or meet friends – there are hundreds of places to choose from!

But given that most of them have already been described in a tourist guide, they tend to be pretty crowded.

Sometimes all we want to do, locals and tourists alike, is escape the hustle and bustle of the city.

Let’s go undercover

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PHOTO: NIELS ELGAARD LARSEN

With that in mind, we’re taking you to 11 special locations in and around Copenhagen, whose original charms have not been affected by the huge crowds – yet.

soft ones that grow into awkwardly wedding youngsters, to the self-confident adults chilling out all day long.

Included are some places that are practically secrets – even from those who’ve been living here for years.

Only locals walk here, so for those in the know it offers a great opportunity to take a break from the busy streets of Copenhagen once in a while.

Whether it’s exploration, recreation or refuge you’re after, this list has got you covered – in an undercover kind of way.

1: LAPPING IT UP BY THE LAKES

Do you like to spot squirrels and listen to woodpeckers in a natural green surrounding? Then take a half-hour bus ride from Nørreport to the nature area of Utterslev Mose!

The park contains three lakes (Vestermosen, Midtmosen and Østmosen) surrounded by a few football fields, playgrounds, lots of shrubbery and many different kinds of trees.

While the park shelters fish, birds, frogs, sheep and hawks, it is mostly dominated by geese. All year long, they can be watched at different stages of their lives depending on the season – from the fluffy,

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GETTING THERE: From Nørreport, take Bus 6A and get off at Emdrup Torv. From the square, walk down Grønnemose Allé for about 10-15 minutes and you’ll see the lakes and green areas. OR take Bus A2 and get off at the stop Husumvold Kirke/Åkandevej. You´ll see the lake right away.

2: BONDING WITH BIRDS

All year long, the Danish Ontological Society organises nature walks in the Danish forests and you can join them! Depending on the season, an enthusiastic and experienced birdwatcher will show you lots of different kinds of birds, telling you all about them, how and where they live, and much more.

MORE INFO: visit dof.dk and follow the links ’Oplev fuglene’ and ’Ture og Aktiviteter’. Contact guides to discuss your preferred time and day of the tour.

3: FANCY A CUPPA?

When icy winds turn your nose red and make your eyes water while biking to and from work, it is time to warm up with a good cup of tea. Open since 1835, the cosy AC Perch’s Tea Shop at Kronprinsensgade 5 welcomes everyone – that is if you can find a place! – serving tea of numerous flavours.

Hidden on a side road off busy Købmagergade, this shop serves more than 150 different quality teas from all over the world, cakes and scones, sandwiches, lunch dishes, and a range of sparkling white wines.

Their specialty, however, is – what else could it be – the Five O’ Clock Tea. 4: FAMILY FUN AT THE FARM

You love spending time around animals and enjoy the peace that comes with it, but are not allowed to own pets for whatever reason. Don’t worry, there is hope for you!

At a place about 15 minutes from Rådhuspladsen, called Børnenes Dyremark, kids and adults volunteer to take care of each other’s animals – big and small.

This secret place hosts rabbits, alpacas, horses, hens and sheep.

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2 Take your lunch from home and sit on a bench to watch lively antics in the city centre. Though it is not permitted to go into the animal cages, there are lots of petting opportunities. And if you fancy kicking a ball around for a change, there is a lawn (Karensminde) very close by.

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GETTING THERE: Take the ‘A’ or ‘E’ S-train to Sjælør Station, walk down Sjælør Boulevard and you will find Wagnersvej 19 on your left.

5: AT HOME WITH THE ARTISTS

If you’d like to have an intimate museum experience without having to endure screaming children and constant flashes and noises from mobile phones, the Hirschsprung Collection is a good alternative to bigger museums in Copenhagen. Hidden behind SMK, most people wouldn’t suspect there is a museum inside the building due to its quite neutral-looking facade, so if you didn’t know what it is, you’d walk right by it.

The museum’s huge art collection of Danish artists including works from, for instance, symbolist painters like Vilhelm Hammershøi, LA Ring and Ejnar Nielsen; Golden Age painters CW Eckersberg, JT Lundbye, PS Krøyer and Anna Ancher; and the Funen Painters. All the works were originally donated by art lover and tobacco manufacturer Heinrich Hirschsprung and his wife Pauline.

4 In addition to the paintings, the place is also furnished with items from the Danish artists’ own homes.

6: THE DANISH ‘OXFORD’

At Fiolstræde 1, there is a place, so hidden, so secret, that you’d have to be a student at the University of Copenhagen to know that it even exists, not to mention, how to get in.

In the library’s reading hall (Bogsalen), those seeking a calm place to study are not disturbed by other people looking for books or asking the libra-

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PHOTO: PXHERE

rian for help, and children playing.

The smell of old books, the high ceiling and classic green lamps take the visitor to back in time to when reading books still was a popular thing to do to pass the time.

If reading has made you hungry, Paludans Book Cafe is waiting for you just across the street. It has second-hand books on offer, but you can also read the ones on the cafe’s shelves.

MORE INFO: Bogsalen is open from Monday to Thursday 09:00-19:00 and Fri 09:00-18:00.

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8 7: PILGRIMAGE CENTRAL

Esrum Abbey has a mix of activities to experience. Historically, pilgrims came from Sweden to begin their pilgrimage in the north of Zealand near Helsingør, where the Danish Monastery Route begins in Græsted. The monks from Esrum Abbey organised and sponsored pilgrimages throughout Europe and in the Middle East.

The route goes through 49 medieval monasteries. From Helsingør Harbour, the route passes by St Mariæ Church, Teglstrup Hegn, Gurre Church, St Jacob’s Chapel and Gurre Lake, Klosterris Hegn to end at Esrum Abbey. Whilst on the road, it is possible to book hotels along the path, which you can either walk or bike to. The whole pilgrim trail is over 2,300 km long.

PHOTO: ANNA JUUL

8: CRADLE OF INDUSTRY Few visitors to Dyrehaven end up discovering the Millstream (Mølleå in Danish), possibly because it’s hidden in the north end of the park.

The Millstream helped drive the Danish industrial age as big companies used its power to produce textiles, metal merchandise, paper and armaments.

Production slowed and started to fizzle out in the 1950s, but many of the buildings from the industrial age still remain.

9: THE LOST TOWN

Just ten minutes on foot from the Fisketorvet shopping mall at Dybbølsbro Station, nestled in between Vesterbro and Kalvebod Brygge, lies a hidden Chinese town – the ‘Yellow Town’ as it is also called.

Built in 1909, the area used to be a DSB centre to repair trains, but now it has been turned into housing.

Don’t rush through when you visit. Take your time strolling through the graffiti-decorated tunnels and enjoy the lost town’s special atmosphere!

GETTING THERE: From Klampenborg Station, walk to Eremittagen and then around the golf course until you see the river and the old mill

Inside Esrum Abbey, you can see how the monks lived and explore an exhibition about the Reformation. Outside, on the other hand, you can admire the landscape around the abbey as well as the beautiful Abbey Garden.

But Esrum is not only a place for adults.

Children, too, can visit an exhibition about five kids from the Middle Ages and learn about the clothing they wore, their daily routines and what toys they played with in 1335. There is also a nature playground for kids and those adults still young at heart (both are free).

GETTING THERE: Take Kystbanen (the coastal train) from Copenhagen to Helsingør. Take Bus 390R and get off at Den Gamle Kro (the old tavern) in Esrum By. OR take the S-train to Hillerød. From here take the local train 940R to Gilleleje and get off at Mårum Station. From here take Bus 362 and get off at Den Gamle Kro (the old tavern) in Esrum By.

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PHOTO: WIKIPEDIA

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Your transport in COPENHAGEN

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10 10: THE SECRET GARDEN

After a long day of shopping on Strøget, you can take a break in the hidden Royal Library Garden right in the middle of Parliament (Christiansborg) and the old Børsen.

Between 1898 and 1906, the Royal Library was established near the harbour, and the garden soon followed in 1920.

The garden still contains some relics from the past, such as moorings on the wall it shares with Tøjhusmuseet (Danish War Museum).

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PHOTO: ARNE LIST

Located in the middle of the garden are a water sculpture by Mogens Møller, which belches out a cascade every hour, and a 1918 bronze statue of the world-famous philosopher Søren Kierkegaard.

Enjoy the gardens’ constantly-changing vegetation with a hot cup of cocoa, tea or coffee while sitting on one of the many benches under the trees along the main wall. The garden also combines both the backyard of the Danish National Archives and the entrance to the Royal Library.

GETTING THERE: From Copenhagen Central Station, take Bus 2A or 9A to Børsen (Børsgade).

Walk down Børsgade until you reach Slotsholmsgade on your right. After a short walk on this street, you will find Rigsdagsgården, also on your right. Walk down this street until you get to Proviantpassagen, again on your right. After a small walk, you will see the main entrance and exit of the garden.

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11 11: A SOLDIER’S LIFE AT SEA

Flakfortet is an artificial island built between 1910 and 1914 as a Danish defence post and used as such until 1968. Unattended between 1969 and 1975, the fort became subject to looting by fishermen and pirates, who stole everything that had not been bolted down.

The island’s fortifications stand 23 metres high and it covers an area 30,000 sqm in size. Its two-floor complex includes an

PHOTO: ELGAARD

armoury, repair shops and barracks that could hold 550 soldiers. Guests are welcome to live the life of a soldier by staying overnight at the fort. Bathroom facilities, pillows, duvets and linen are included in the price.

Thanks to donations from sailing clubs, foundations, Copenhagen Municipality and private individuals, the fort was saved from financial ruin, 3,600 wildflowers were planted and the piers rebuilt.

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The fort offers a wide range of activities, including guided tours, mini-golf, rappelling, lift shaft-climbing, kayak-polo, team building exercises, ghost hunts and scavenger hunts. Bring colleagues, family or friends and go wild. And it even has a restaurant.

GETTING THERE: From 10:00 it is possible to sail to the island from Nyhavn, but tickets have to be ordered prior to the trip. For later or earlier departures, a minimum number of 20 passengers is required to arrange a service.

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MUSEUMS

AUTHOR: KATHRINE MARIA AMANN

SLOTSHOLM: THE COUNTRY’S UNDISPUTED CULTURAL EPICENTRE The beauty of Denmark is that you’re invariably standing on an island without even knowing it. Sure, Zealand is one, as is Vendsyssel-Thy in north Jutland, along with the likes of Funen, Lolland and Falster, but they’re too big to merit the description that you’re actually standing ‘on’ them, as opposed to merely being ‘in’ them.

which opened in 1848 as the country’s first public museum.

But sometimes, particularly in the capital Copenhagen, you can happily traipse along a road or a path and suddenly find yourself completely surrounded by water. One such example is Slotsholmen, the home of Parliament and the Copenhagen cultural district.

The historical epicentre of the city is home to some of the best and most-visited museums and attractions in Denmark, as well as charming canals and urban hangouts. The political and royal history of the district makes it an exciting place to visit for the entire family.

Denmark’s oldest museum

Thorvaldsens Museum, Bertel Thorvaldsens Plads 2, Cph K; open daily 10:00-17:00, closed Mon; 70kr, under-18s: free adm; thorvaldsensmuseum.dk

Thorvaldsens Museum was built as a framework for a single artist’s oeuvre, the Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen (1770-1844). The museum is an architectural gem of bright colours, breathtaking corridors and stunning statues. In 1838, Thorvaldsen bequeathed his own work and art collections to his hometown of Copenhagen. The city in turn dedicated an entire building to his work,

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Architecture for all

Copenhagen Architecture Center, Bryghusgade 10, Cph K; open 10:00-18:00, until 21:00 on Tue; 110kr, under-18s: free adm; dac.dk

Copenhagen Architecture Center (DAC) is beautifully located on the harbour front in the new BLOX building.

DAC shows exhibitions on city development and Danish architectural history, as well as hosting lectures, talks and guided city walks. The exhibitions change every two to three months and typically have either an overarching theme or a special focus on a Danish or international architect. DAC also offers a variety of workshops for children of all ages and educational programs for schools.

Just stepped over

Great for family trips

H.G.F. Holm Udsigt over København fra Rundetårn

Treasure chest for bookworms All the world is a stage

Theatre Museum in the Court Theatre, Christiansborg Ridebane 18, Cph K; open daily 12:00-16:00, closed Mon; 40kr, under-18s: free adm; teatermuseet.dk

Christiansborg Castle, home to the Danish Parliament, until 1794 was the principal residence of the Danish monarchy, and in 1767 King Christian VII opened a court theatre. The auditorium, designed by French architect Nicolas-Henri Jardin, was done in a neoclassical style, decorated in pearlgrey and gold, with a balcony supported by 22 pillars. Since 1922 the theatre has been open to the public and home to the Theatre Museum.

The collection has increased significantly over the years, while the hallways and lobby present a selection of drawings, paintings, costumes, set design models, programs, posters and objects that tell the history of Danish theatre since the first half of the 18th century.

Royal Danish Library, Søren Kierkegaards Plads 1, Cph K; open 08:00-19:00, Sat 09:0017:00, closed Sun; Mon 15:00 library tour: 60kr, under-18s: free adm; kb.dk

The Royal Danish Library has an impressive view over the canal and Christianshavn. The iconic new part of the library, the Black Diamond, was designed by Schmidt Hammer Lassen and is itself worth a visit – particularly to view its 230 sqm façade of black glass and granite. The collection holds original manuscripts by Søren Kierkegaard and HC Andersen, as well as the letters of Karen Blixen.

PHOTO: WIKIMEDIA

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MUSEUMS

So much more than small beer The Jacobsen family have left their fingerprints on Danish culture, and they’re particularly visible in Copenhagen. And no, we’re not just talking about beer!

JC Jacobsen, the founder of the world-renowned brewery Carlsberg, along with his son Carl Jacobsen, maintained close relations with the great thinkers, artists and scientists of their time.

The Jacobsens were driven by a strong determination to give back to society in the shape of buildings, artwork and numerous sculptures. Let’s take a closer look at the Carlsberg Family’s contributions to the city of Copenhagen.

New Carlsberg Glyptotek

Dantes Plads 7, Cph K; open 11:00-18:00, until 22:00 on Thu, closed Mon; 115kr, under-18s: free adm; glyptoteket.com Carl Jacobsen (1842-1914) was one of the 19th century’s principal tycoons and patrons of the arts. He created one of his era’s greatest private art collections. The brewer was a passionate collector and nearly squandered his entire fortune on creating his exceptional collection of art and artefacts. At the New Carlsberg Glyptotek, Carl Jacobsen managed to bring together works from leading contemporary ar-tists, creating a magnificent collection of modern French and Danish art. As a consequence Glyptoteket houses one of the world’s largest collections of Impressionist art. The collection includes works

by Manet, Monet, Degas, Sisley, van Gogh, Cezanne, Rodin and Picasso. Particularly noteworthy is the Paul Gaugin collection, which is among the world’s finest.

PHOTO: WIKIMEDIA COMMONS

PHOTO: WIKIMEDIA COMMONS

Visit Carlsberg

Gamle Carlsberg Vej 11, Cph V; open daily 10:00-18:00; 100kr, under-18s: 70kr, under-5s: free adm; visitcarlsberg.com The Carlsberg family is renowned for the great Carlsberg brewery, which was founded in 1847. A tour with Visit Carlsberg is imperative to those interested in beer, history, art and architecture. The visit takes you through the history of the brewery and shares fascinating stories about JC Jacobsen’s lifelong journey to develop a world-class beer, Carlsberg’s unique role in research, and the Jacobsen family’s personal dramas – not to mention the iconic architecture of the brewery. You can also marvel at the world’s largest collection of unopened beer bottles, which have been sourced from all over the globe. See the original delivery vans on display in the exhibition and challenge your brain and sharpen your senses in the aroma room.

largest collection of Danish design and has established itself as a central exhibition forum for industrial design and applied arts in Scandinavia. The collection includes works by three major masters of Danish design: Arne Jacobsen, Poul Henningsen and Kaare Klint.

The Little Mermaid

Langelinie, Cph Ø In 1913, Carl Jacobsen donated The Little Mermaid statue to the city of Copenhagen.

The sculpture, designed by Edvard Eriksen, was reputedly mode-lled on royal solo ballerina Ellen Price de Plane. Visit the national icon at Langelinie.

For more inspiration from Copenhagen Museums and Attractions, visit cphmuseums.com

Designmuseum Danmark

Bredgade 68, Cph K; open 10:00-18:00, un-til 21:00 on Wed, closed on Mon; 115kr, under-26s: free adm; designmuseum.dk When Designmuseum Danmark was first founded in 1890, patron Carl Jacobsen was allegedly so excited that he climbed the ceiling of the newly built museum building on what is now known as HC Andersens Boulevard. Carl Jacobsen donated several pieces to the museum’s collection, along with a large sum of money. In 1926, Designmuseum Danmark was relocated to its current site, a former hospi tal on Bredgade.

Today, the museum exhibits the world’s

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PHOTO: PIXABAY

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Publisher: CPH POST Editor: Hans Hermansen Layout: CPH POST Journalists: Mathilde Zaavi, Whitney Miller, Ross McPherson, Laura Geigenberger, Sankriti Malik, Annaclaire Crumpton, Info: hans@cphpost.dk Tel: +45 2420 2411

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PHOTO: FACEBOOK EVENT PAGE

EVENTS PHOTO: PIXABAY

OKTOBERFEST AT BRUS

CULTURE NIGHT

PHOTO: GUIDO

IMPROV COMEDY COPENHAGEN NIGHTS weekly shows Wed-Sat 20:00, stand-up Sun 20:00; Frederiksholm Kanal 2, Cph K; 100-125kr The Byens Bedste winner Improv Comedy Copenhagen offers a staggering five English-language shows a week. The pick right now is ‘Murder of Crows’, a film noir-inspired show on Friday nights that includes Adrian Mackinder.

CPH ENGLISH COMEDY NIGHTS Oct 11, Nov 15 & Dec 6, 20:00; Dubliner Downtown, Ny Østergade 14, Cph K; 120kr at door A night of English-language comedy with compere Adrian Mackinder introducing headliners Adam Fields and Neville Raven (Oct 11), David Tsonos and Christian Schulte-Loh (Nov 15) and Justin Panks and Dave Ward (Dec 6).

SVALERNES MARKET Sat 10:00-15:00; Nattergalevej 6, Cph NV This year-round flea market is a favourite among locals. It offers a variety of goods from cute household items to retro clothing and art.

It is a great way to spend a Saturday exploring.

(WM)

CULTURE NIGHT Oct 12; 17:00-05:00; various locations; 95kr; kulturnatten.dk Copenhagen’s annual Culture Night kicks off the autumn break, offering children and adults hundreds of events over the course of just one night. Experience Copenhagen in a different light and see places you would not normally get access to, when hundreds of museums, churches, exhibition halls, art galleries, humanitarian organisations, and political and cultural institutions open their doors to host cultural events. (LG)

FREDRIKSBERG MARKET Sat 09:00-15:00, through Oct; Smallegade, Frederiksberg Located close to Frederiksberg City Hall, this flea market is a great place to spend time and find bargains. It offers a variety of items from clothing to antiques. (WM) GENTOFTE MARKET Sat 08:00-14:00, through Oct; Bregnegård 2, Charlottenlund This popular market is an amazing place to find great deals. Its collection of high-end brands sold at low prices includes clothing, antiques, furniture, books and toys. (WM) TORVEHALLERNE FOOD MARKET Mon-Thu 10:00-19:00, Fri 10:00-20:00, Sat 10:0018:00, Sun 11:00-17:00; Frederiksborggade 21, Cph K Torvehallerne’s 60 stands make it a great place to grab lunch. A popular destination among tourists, the market offers everything from fresh produce and delicious meals to gourmet sweets. (WM) BLUE HALL ANTIQUES MARKET Sat-Sun 10:00-16:00; Ved Amagerbanen 9, Cph SV The Blue Hall is an indoor flea market that includes a cute café. It is lined with stalls featuring furniture, jewellery, ceramics and art. It is a great way to spend some time wandering around looking for home decorations. (WM) NORDIC ART OF CREATIVE LIVING Oct 10, 19:00-21:00; Sofievej 1, Hellerup; free adm, must register Don’t miss American creative consultant Austin Salisbury present his new book ‘Nordic Art of Creative Living’

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HALLOWEEN AT TIVOLI Oct 12-Nov 4; Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00; Tivoli, Vesterbrogade 3, Cph V; tivoligardens.com Bring your children to Tivoli for Halloween and go exploring among the many beautiful decorations. The little ones can go on a treasure hunt and Halloween rides and whoop as Rasmus Klump creates Halloween fun on an open-air stage. (LG) OYSTER WEEK Oct 12-21; various venues; oysterweek.dk FOOD (Food Organisation of Denmark) invites you to take part in Oyster Week. This event celebrates the oyster, one of the exquisite ingredients of the rejuvenated Nordic cuisine, which are most commonly caught in Limfjorden and the Wadden Sea. BLACK NIGHT Oct 19, 23:00-05:00; Søhesten, Sølvgade 103, Cph K; ticket price TBC Enjoy a dense atmospheric mix of electronic percussion, synthesisers and late ‘70s postpunk at this party. Embarking on a journey through time and space, this DJ Club plays forgotten tunes from the synth era. (SM) MIX COPENHAGEN Oct 27-Nov 5; various cinemas; mixcopenhagen.dk A regular fixture since 1986, this LGBT film festival packs a rich schedule of Danish and international movies.

OYSTER WEEK

DANISH HISTORY FOR CHILDREN Oct 13-21, open Mon-Sun 10:00-17:00; Frederiksborg Slot, Hillerød; 75kr, under-15s: 20kr, under-6s: free adm The Museum of National History has a whole department especially for children called ‘Danish History for Children’ in the old wine cellar of the castle. Meanwhile, the exhibition ‘Christian IV – child and king’ tells the story of the famous king’s childhood. Other activities include learning to write with a quill and dressing up in costumes. (LG) COPENHAGEN DINING WEEK Oct 14-21; various locations; 120-1,500kr, diningweek.dk More than 25 Copenhagen restaurants are bringing their best food to the table in this dining week. From finger-food to grand six-course meals, the festival will display the diversity and range of Nordic cuisine. (AC) OKTOBERFEST AT BRUS Oct 20, 16:00-03:00; BRUS, Guldbergsgade 29F, Cph N; free adm Tyrolean music and schlager hits fill the room as people sip German beers served in half-litre glasses brewed specially for the occasion. This is a second chance to celebrate Oktoberfest in Denmark! (SM) COPENHAGEN BLUES FESTIVAL Oct 24-28; various times and venues; copenhagenbluesfestival.dk It’s autumn, and once again it’s time for ‘Blue Copenhagen’! Ahead of the festival’s 18th edition, blues fans are invited to visit the city’s many clubs and venues for a week of worldclass music, which will include the best homegrown artists from Denmark. (LG) BEETHOVEN AND SCHUBERT Oct 25, 19:30; DR Koncerthuset, Ørestads Boulevard 13, Cph S; 73-500kr, drkoncerthuset.dk The Danish National Symphony Orchestra is performing Ludwig van Beethoven’s ‘Piano Concerto no 4’ and Franz Schubert’s ‘Symphony no 4 in C minor’ at the picturesque DR Koncerthuset. (AC) KINK FILM FESTIVAL Oct 25, 19:30-22:30; Husets Biograf, Rådhusstræde 13, 2th, Cph K; 70kr A mixture of intimate, funny and hardcore short films celebrate all manner of kinkiness at this two-hour film festival. After your fix of gay orgy fantasies and rubber fetishist pioneers, you might be glad to know the bar will be open afterwards.

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EVENTS

PHOTO: STUDIO SARAH LOU, FLICKR

CHRISTMAS AT TIVOLI

PHOTO: STIG NYGAARD

HUBERTUS HUNT

RED BULL SILENT DISCO Oct 26, 20:30-03:00; Studenterhuset, Købmagergade 52, Cph K; free adm Choosing between two different channels, you and your friends can put your headphones on and dance the night away in a silent room filled with students from all over Copenhagen. (SM)

HALLOWEEN ON JÆGERSBORGGADE Oct 31, 17:00-19:00; Jægersborggade, Cph N; free adm Join in the fun at Jægersborggade for an evening of Halloween-themed events, bites, drinks, competitions and more. There’s plenty for both kids and adults to do! (LG)

COPENHAGEN BOOK FORUM Oct 26-28; Fri 10:00-19:00, Sat & Sun 10:0018:00; Bella Center Copenhagen, Center Boulevard 5, Cph S; 150kr, under 12s: 60kr (free on Friday); bellacentercopenhagen.dk Meet local and international authors and publishers and enjoy an exciting program of interviews, lectures, book signings and new book releases. (LG)

DANISH JAZZ MUSIC AWARDS Nov 12; 19:30; Bremen Teater, Nyropsgade 3941, Cph V; 145kr; brementeater.dk Join the country’s jazz stars at the old cinema hall to celebrate the year. Comedian Morten Lindberg, also known as ‘Master Fatman’, is compering. (LG)

SPOOKY SYMPHONY Oct 27, 19:30; DR Koncerthuset, Ørestads Boulevard 13, Cph S; 90-160kr, drkoncerthuset.dk Together with the Amager Children’s Choir, the Danish National Symphony is performing its take on centuries of music dedicated to Halloween. Experience the music of Harry Potter and the sounds of skeletons, trolls and spirits at this family-friendly event. (AC) COPENHAGEN COIN FAIR Oct 28; 10:00-16:00; Scandic Hotel, Vester Søgade 6, Cph V; 80kr, under-18s: free admn; cphcoinfair.dk The north’s biggest coin fair celebrates its 10th anniversary this year with coin dealers and participants from Scandinavia, Switzerland and Germany attending. (LG) J-DAY PARTY Nov 2, 21:00-05:00; Copenhagen Downtown Hostel, Vandkunsten 5, Cph K; free adm; copenhagendowntown.com To launch the Tuborg Christmas Brew, Carlsberg employees drive around the city’s bars and cafés singing a traditional Tuborg Christmas Brew song and handing out a free beer to the guests. And the hostel is a great place to celebrate. (SM) SEAFOOD BRUNCH Nov 4, 10:00-14:00; NIMB Hotel, Bernstorffsgade 5, Cph K; 1,395kr, dinnerbooking.com/dk The NIMB hotel’s upscale restaurant is serving an extravagant seafood brunch to display the riches of Denmark’s seas. Oysters, butter-poached lobster, steamed mussels and crispy brioche with crab salad are just a few options.

Each ticket comes with a half-bottle of champagne. (AC)

COPENHAGEN IRISH FESTIVAL Nov 2, 17:00-23:00, Nov 3, 17:00-23:00; Kulturstationen Vanløse, Jernbane Allé 38, Vanløse; irishfestival.dk A good mix of fun and tradition can be found at the Irish Festival where traditional and contemporary folk music will get your feet dancing to Irish jigs! Enjoy open jam sessions on Friday and Saturday and don’t miss the Irish céilí. (LG) HUBERTUS HUNT Nov 4, 14:00; Peter Liep’s House, Deer Park, Klampenborg; free adm At this annual event held north of Copenhagen, the hunt attracts up to 40,000 spectators and involves 160 horseback riders. Watch the riders fly over hedges and make deep landings – not least the crossing of the ‘Black Pond’. (LG) A ROMANTIC INTERPRETATION Nov 9, 19:30; DR Koncerthuset, Ørestads Boulevard 13, Cph S; 85-550kr, drkoncerthuset.dk Germany’s Christoph Eschenbach is believed to be amongst the greatest contemporary conductors. He will take the stage at Koncerthuset with American pianist Tzimon Barto to conduct Johannes Brahms’ ‘Klavervartet’. (AC) POETIC SOUNDS Nov 10, 19:30; Huset-KBH, Rådhusstræde 13, Cph K; free adm Siegmar Tonk, Jana Pulkrabek and Katrin Weisser are among the performers at this poetry concert to launch Move the North, a new cross-border-festival encompassing the cities of Hamburg, Copenhagen and Malmö in 2019.

This night of jazz, poetry-slam and songs includes Danish, German and English-language content.

THE COP EN HAGEN PO ST TO UR I S M M AGAZ I N E • AU T U MN 2 0 1 8

PHOTO: FACEBOOK

PARTY LIKE GATSBY

DANISH OPEN BELLY DANCE Nov 9-11, Fri 15:00-22:00, Sat 10:00-23:00, Sun 10:00-18:30; Glostrup Hallen, Stadionvej 80, Glostrup; 220-370kr; danishopenbellydance. wordpress.com Enjoy dazzling performances by hundreds of bellydancers to enchanting music in their bid to be the best this year in several different categories of dance. (LG) HILLERØD FOLK FESTIVAL Nov 10-11; Klaverfabrikken, Fredensvej 12A, Hillerød; 50-250kr; klaverfabrikken.dk The festival brings together international folk artists, offering a range of workshops on dance, singing and games. Performances include the Spanish due Fetén Fetén and the Swedish-Danish folk-band Spöket i Köket. (LG) CHRISTMAS AT TIVOLI Nov 17-Dec 31, open Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00, FriSat 11:00-24:00; Tivoli, Vesterbrogade 3, Cph V; tivoligardens.com Tivoli is rarely shut for long – particularly when it’s still got the rest of its 175th year to celebrate. And just 13 days after closing the doors on its Halloween season, it will be opening for Christmas. Don’t miss the firework festival at the end of the year.

AN EVENING WITH STRAVINSKY Nov 18, 19:30; DR Koncerthuset, Ørestads Boulevard 13, Cph S; 73-500kr; drkoncerthuset.dk The Danish National Symphony Orchestra is welcoming Dutch star violin soloist Janine Jansen to preform Igor Stravinsky’s famous ballet composition ‘Le sacre du printemps’. (AC) RUFUS GIFFORD: THE NEXT CHAPTER Nov 27 & Dec 12; Bremen Teater, Nyropsgade 39-41, Cph V; 249-299kr; brementeater.dk The former US ambassador to Denmark, Rufus Gifford, is returning to reflect on his life and future prospects following his failure to win the Massachusetts’ 3rd Congressional District Election on September 4.

PARTY LIKE GATSBY Dec 31, 21:00-04:00; Vega, Enghavevej 40, Cph V; partylikegatsby.eu With 20 world-class performers, a stunning live-band and Gatsby’s brilliant resident DJ, this party is an extraordinary spectacle dedicated to reliving the Roaring ‘20s. Dress in your finest attire and transport yourself into the glamorous world of Jay Gatsby. (SM)

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PERFORMANCE

PHOTO: THOMAS PETRI

PHOTO: MIKLOS SZABO

PHOTO: JOACHIM STENDER

THE WOMAN IN BLACK

SLAPSTICK & SLAUGHTER ongoing, ends Oct 13; Bådteatret, Nyhavn; tickets: 135kr, teaterbilletter.dk This touring British production performed by Desperate Men (actors Richard Headon and Jon Beedell) has been compared to Monty Python being performed by Statler and Waldorf from ‘The Muppet Show’. If portentous pomposity sounds like fun, you’re in luck.

PHANTOM OF THE OPERA ongoing, ends March 31; Det Ny Teater, Gammel Kongevej 29, Cph V; tickets: 209-748kr, detnyteater.dk; in Danish The sets in this historically huge production are of a big, bold, garish, gothic themepark aesthetic and they ably show a considerable budget exploited to its bloated potential. The overall effect is an eye-popping gothic sweetshop. (MW) CABARET ongoing, ends Oct13; Krudttønden, Serridslevvej 2, Cph Ø; 220kr; ctcircle.dk The CTC presents ‘Cabaret’, the 1966 John Kander musical made famous by the 1974 film starring Liza Minnelli. Traversing a 1930s Berlin rapidly filling up with Nazis, a young journalist discovers the seedy delights of the Kit Kat Klub.

THE MARRIAGE OF FIGARO ongoing, ends Oct 21; Gamle Scene, Kongens Nytorv 9, Cph K; 100-725kr; kglteater.dk Its tale of servants getting the better of their masters made Salieri cry tears of joy and sorrow in equal measure (or at least in the film). As Mozart explained to his rival: who wants to watch Italian operas about characters who “shit marble”.

CARMEN ongoing, ends Nov 1; Gamle Scene, Kongens Nytorv 9, Cph K; 100-725kr, kglteater.dk For those familiar with Georges Bizet’s opera, this should be a treat, as dancers under the watchful eye of Spanish choreographer Marcos Marcos give the passion a balletic interpretation.

IL TRAVATORE ongoing, ends Nov 20; Operaen, Ekvipagemestervej 10, Cph K; 150-925kr, kglteater.dk Initially more popular with the public than the critics, Verdi’s thrilling opera delivers revenge, anger and desire with (Blackadder will be pleased) some hot gypsies thrown in. This new staging gives it a contemporary edge.

TEATER TAPAS Oct 28 & Nov 25, 16:00-20:00; Teaterøen, William Wains Gade 18, Cph K Artists stage 15-minute performances of any style/genre in English, Danish or without words. Every monthly get-together tends to

16

CRAZY CHRISTMAS CABARET

have its own theme. And yes, tapas are served.

BABETTE’S FEAST ongoing, ends Nov 10; Republique, Østerfælled Torv 37, Cph Ø; tickets: 1,495kr, osterbroteater.dk; in Danish Make no mistake, this is an experience that will stay with you forever. Karen Blixen’s novel, the source material for Gabriel Axel’s 1987 Oscar-winning film, is the inspiration for this lavish feast. Sure this might involve a few Danish phrases disappearing over your shoulder, but not as quickly as the delectable courses.

OLIVER! Oct 12-24; MusikTeatret Albertslund, Bibliotekstorvet 1-3; 195-245kr, billetlugen.dk; in Danish SceneKunst’s English co-founder Russell Collins is again bringing us some Dickensian magic this children’s half-term: Lionel Bart’s ‘Oliver!’ The show features his students, pros playing the adults and a nine-piece pro band.

DANS2GO Oct 23-March 18; Gamle Scene, Kongens Nytorv 9, Cph K; 200-260kr; kglteater.dk This trio of short ballet pieces is a perfect introduction to beginners. Jiří Kylián’s ‘Symphony of Psalms’ set to music by Igor Stravinsky is inspired by biblical texts, while ‘My Daddy Loves Sugar So Much He Eats It With His Nose’ is a new piece by Oliver Starpov.

THE WOMAN IN BLACK Oct 24-Nov 24; Krudttønden, Serridslevvej 2, Cph Ø; 175kr; that-theatre.com Just five years after its last triumph with this Susan Hill chiller, That Theatre is back for its third outing, again with Ian Burns and Benjamin Stender in the main roles, with Barry McKenna at the helm. As That Theatre urges: “Don’t come alone!”

THE SANTALAND DIARIES Nov 27- 29, 20:00; LiteraturHaus, Møllegade 7, Cph N; 150kr, tickets@houseofinternationaltheatre.dk The House of International Theatre presents David Sedaris’ tale of a slacker’s ill-advised decision to take on a holiday job as Santa’s elf at Macy’s department store. Down the Rabbit Hole members Jeremy Thomas-Poulsen and Jens Blegaa direct and act.

GHOSTING Oct 26-Nov 10; Gamle Scene, Kongens Nytorv 9, Cph K; 200kr; kglteater.dk Inspired by the online practice of never interacting with somebody close to you again, Corpus asks how internet creatures such as ghosts and trolls manifest themselves physically. For this interactive piece, it is advised each audience member has a smartphone.

PHANTOM OF THE OPERA

NAPOLI Oct 31-March 7; Gamle Scene, Kongens Nytorv 9, Cph K; 80-625kr; kglteater.dk Nikolaj Hübbe and Sorella Englund have updated August Bournonville’s 1840s ballet to 1950s Italy, taking inspiration from the films of Federico Fellini.

CRAZY CHRISTMAS CABARET Nov 13-Jan 5; Tivoli Glassalen; tickets: 170385kr, londontoast.dk Get in the mood for Christmas at Vivienne McKee’s Crazy Christmas Cabaret, which this year is called ‘Fogg’s Off’ – a departure from the Donald Trump-inspired romps that have delighted audiences for the past two years.

THE NUTCRACKER Nov 23-Dec 23; Tivoli Koncertsal; tickets: 275635kr, tivoli.dk Little Marie’s magical journey into the Land of Sweets accompanied, of course, by Pyotr Tchaikovsky’s iconic music, has become synonymous with the festive season. Tivoli’s version places the action firmly in the themepark, including cameos from a few famous faces of yesteryear.

DIE FLEDERMAUS Nov 24-March 3; Operaen, Ekvipagemestervej 10, Cph K; 125-725kr, kglteater.dk Few satires encompass as many tiers of society as ‘Die Fledermaus’: from the nobility and nouveau riche to servant girls and state officials.

And it still has time to fit in an erotic journey of seduction, alcohol, love, betrayal and tears.

ALICE’S ADVENTURES IN WONDERLAND Dec 2-22; Gamle Scene, Kongens Nytorv 9, Cph K; 100-760kr; kglteater.dk This production has a distinctly Anglo feel thanks to its British choreographer (Christopher Wheeldon), music (Joby Talbot) and set (Bob Crowley). Expect bright colours, crazy effects and pure theatrical magic in this co-production with the Royal Swedish Ballet.

LA BOHEME Oct 20-Nov 20; Operaen Ekvipagemestervej 10, Cph K; 150-925kr, kglteater.dk As one of the world’s most popular operas, performances of this Puccini classic never fail to elicit heavy emotion, so bring a spare hankie!

CARMEN Nov 6-7; Gamle Scene, Kongens Nytorv 9, Cph K; 100-725kr; kglteater.dk The sultry señorita is back! Georges Bizet’s classic opera − full of steamy Spanish passion, eroticism, raucous stage scenes and familiar songs that will have you swaying on your haunches was first performed in Paris in 1875 and it’s been wowing audiences ever since.

TH E COPE NH AG E N POST TO U RI S M M AGAZI NE • AUTUMN 2018

ARTS

PHOTO: MAISONDUDANEMARK.DK

PHOTO: LOUISIANA.DK

PHOTO: DAKOTA HIGGINS

HOMAGE TO PER KIRKEBY

WADE IN THE WATER ongoing, ends Oct 28; v1gallery.com Devin Troy Strother’s latest solo exhibition uses painting, drawing, collage, assemblage and sculpture to explore the turbulent relationship between black people and water, beginning with the 16th-century Atlantic slave-trade journeys. (SM)

SONG 1

THE MOON

THE SAME DIFFERENT ongoing, ends March 3; modernamuseet.se Rosemarie Trockel, an artist challenging societal standards and transforming the meaning of art, presents an exhibition featuring more than 40 pieces from 1988 to the present. The exhibition follows Trockel’s career as she tackles topics such as feminism, animal ethics and artistic processes. (WM)

HOMAGE TO PER KIRKEBY ongoing, ends Oct 27; bjerggaard.com A tribute to the life of Per Kirkeby, a great experimenter of the neo-expressionist style of painting, this exhibition covers the whole gallery, featuring large charcoal drawings, bronze models, silkscreens and watercolours. (SM)

AFTERBEAT ongoing, ends Jan 13; Horsens Art Museum; v1gallery.com Rose Eken’s first solo exhibition examines the cultural impact of rock music. She uses a variety of different mediums including oil, ceramics and embroidery to capture the aura of the topic. (WM)

MI JU: WITHIN BLUE ongoing, ends Nov 10; gallerypoulsen.com This exhibition by Mi Ju features an absolute boom of colouristic dimensions that exist in living organisms. Using psychedelic art, the South Korean artist brings narrative and intricacy into natural elements. (SM)

YŌKAI PANDEMONIUM ongoing, ends Nov 10; formatartspace.dk Knowledgeable of the visual culture of Japan, Danish artist Martin Askholm has created a series of woodcuttings and watercolours depicting yōkai, demons and ghosts as illustrated in the book ‘The Illustrated One Hundred Demons from the Present and the Past’ by Gazu Hyakki. (WM)

WRITTEN IN LIGHT ongoing, ends Jan 2019; modernamuseet.se This exhibition showcases Moderna Museet’s collection of the most prominent 19th century works of photography. It focuses on how the history of photography impacts contemporary photographic culture and shapes ‘vernacular photography’. (SM)

SONG 1 ongoing, ends Jan 2019; cphco.org Doug Aitken’s latest installation is a piece of video art centred around the jazz standard ‘I Only Have Eyes For You’. The hypotonic piece features Hollywood stars and singers offering their own interpretation. (SM) THE MOON ongoing, ends Jan 20; louisiana.dk Louisiana Museum celebrates the upcoming 50th anniversary of Neil Armstrong’s ‘giant leap for mankind’ with an exciting exhibition focused on the fascination, importance and power of the Moon. More than 200 pieces are displayed that examine historical interpretations through to the present day. (WM) ONE TWO THREE SWING! ongoing, ends Dec 30; cphco.org SUPERFLEX, the Danish artists’ collective, addresses social apathy in current society through their large-scale installation. Viewers are able to interact with the piece in the hope that they will then reflect on ideas of democracy and citizenship, empowering a more collaborative society. (WM)

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XMAS

MARKETS

AUTHOR: ANNACLAIRE CRUMPTON

Best of the festive markets No Christmas is complete without a trip to one of the many wind-swept squares in the capital to stock up on presents, gløgg and seasonal cheer As we approach the darkest days of the winter, these Christmas markets bring much needed light to this time of the year.

Copenhagen is home to some of the best ones in the country. So bundle up and get cosy with some spiced gløgg (mulled wine) in a warm atmosphere.

Whether you’re visiting or you live here, these markets will give you a true feel for what the hyggelig Danish Christmas experience is all about!

RITA BLÅ’S XMAS DESIGN FLEA MARKET Dec 10-11, 10:00-18:00; Centralpostbygningen, Tietgensgade 37, Cph V; free adm Next door to Copenhagen Central Station in the old post office building area, this market specialises in crafts, design and vintage clothing. Expect bargains galore and the chance to pick up a nice Christmas tree.

CHRISTMAS MARKET IN TIVOLI ends Dec 31, open Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00, FriSat 11:00-00:00, Dec 24, 11:00-16:00; Dec 25, 11:00-23:00; Dec 31, 11:00-00:30; Vesterbrogade 3, Cph K; 120kr, under-8s: free adm; tivoli.dk The city’s biggest Christmas market will teleport you into a fairy-tale. Besides the obvious rides and games, try appetising culinary delicacies and hot drinks, get inspired by great gift ideas, or just simply walk around an astonishing place that is always surrounded by laughter.

ROYAL CHRISTMAS MARKET AT KRONBORG CASTLE Dec 3-4 & 10-11, open 10:00-17:00; Kronborg Castle, Helsingør; 50kr; under-4s: free adm; kongeligeslotte.dk Treat yourself like royalty and enjoy all of the magical festivities, such as horse-drawn carriage rides and watching the Fairy Tale Theatre in the great ballroom. Find special, handmade Christmas products from the 100 stalls at the market and participate in the excellent gift-making workshops. Guided tours are also provided.

LYNGBY CHRISTMAS MARKET Dec 3-4 & 10-11, open daily 10:00-16:00; Lyngby Nordre Mill, Lyngby Who said Tivoli was the only themepark with a Christmas market?! Bakken, the oldest in the world (founded in 1583), is moving some of its Christmas stands to Lyngby.

18

PHOTO: YURI YUDELEVICH

INTERNATIONAL CHRISTMAS MARKET IN HØJBRO PLADS ends Dec 23, open Mon-Wed 11:00-19:00, Thu 11:00-20:00, Fri 11:00-21:00, Sat 10:0021:00, Sun 11:00-18:00; Højbro Plads 9, Cph K; free adm; julemarked.nu Experience an old-fashioned Christmas like in the good old days with decorated trees, 80,000 sparkling lights, elves, reindeer and Santa’s sleigh. Don’t miss out on the delicious German grilled sausages and gløgg.

CHRISTIANIA CHRISTMAS MARKET Dec 9-20, open 12:00-20:00, last day 12:0018:00; Grey Hall, Refshalevej 2, Christiania; christiania.org The Grey Hall in Christiania is transformed into a Christmas market that offers untraditional experiences when you get tired of the crowded shopping malls. Instead, enjoy the cosy and warm atmosphere, gløgg with less familiar flavours and the pleasant smell of roasted almonds.

DRAGØR CHRISTMAS MARKET Dec 3, open advent weekends 10:00-16:00; Dragør Borgerforening; free adm Since 2014, the market has been celebrating with a ‘time travel’ theme that they borrowed from ‘Tidsrejsen’, the DR1 julekalendar. Enjoy the charm of the beautifully decorated Borgerforeningen hall, while, sipping on gløgg and tasting the market’s classic fritters. And take part in the Santa lottery! ØSTERBRO’S HYGGELIGSTE XMAS MARKET Dec 3-4, 10:00-16:00 (Santa 13:00); Remisen, Blegdamsvej 132, Cph Ø; 10kr; under 16s: free adm Named by Antik & Auktion magazine as one of Copenhagen’s best, the Christmas

edition of the well-known flea market will serve up countless possibilities for presents. As the organisers proudly proclaim, it’s the “market where people meet”.

HC ANDERSEN XMAS MARKET ends Dec 22, open daily 11:00-19:00; Fri-Sat 11-20:00; Axeltorv, Cph K; julemarked.co After a successful opening year in 2014, the carousels are returning to the centre of Copenhagen. So jump onboard HC Andersen or Santa Claus – all kids’ ages are catered to.

NYHAVN CHRISTMAS MARKET ends Dec 23, open Sun-Thu 11:00-19:00, FriSat 11:00-20:00; Nyhavn, Cph K; markedskalendaren.dk Can you imagine a more beautiful place in Copenhagen for a Christmas market than Nyhavn? Swing by the charming harbour and taste local treats such as æbleskriver and gløgg, whilst listening to traditional Danish Christmas hits.

CARLSBERG XMAS MARKET Dec 2-4, 10:00-17:00; Visit Carlsberg, Gamle Carlsberg Vej 11, Cph V Hop aboard for what is probably the best Christmas market ever arranged for Dad. Sample special beer, stock up on your festive brew and tick off the chore of buying a tree while you’re nicely sozzled. And if your kids behave, treat them to a horse-drawn carriage and æbelskiver.

CHRISTMAS AT KØDBYEN Dec 10-11, 10:00-18:00; Kødbyen, Flæsketorvet, Cph V; koedbyensmadogmarked.dk Kødbyen’s down-to-earth yet edgy urban atmosphere gives way to Christmas dishes and treats. There will also be lots of live music to enjoy while sipping your hot cocoa.

TH E COPE NH AG E N POST TO U RI S M M AGAZI NE • AUTUMN 2018

XMAS

MARKETS

AUTHOR: ROSS MCPHERSON

JUST Like gold, frankincense, myrrh: unique prezzies for your chosen one A trip to one of the city’s arty Christmas markets is rarely a wasted journey It is a mathematical certainty that as Christmas gets closer more people are looking for presents, so why not start your hunt early and beat the rush?

Perfectly timed for this purpose are what we like to call the arty Christmas markets – included here with a few other pretenders this year. Miss them at your peril!

The next Faberge

Starting in mid-November – please note that the New Designers’ Market, a fixture over the last eight years, is not taking place this year – a trip to these markets is rarely a wasted one.

Among the affordable, unique offerings are gems that could even accumulate in value. So make sure you get the name of the designer, as in a few years’ time, s/he could be the talk of the town, or even the world.

DESIGN XMAS MARKET Dec 2-4, Fri 12:00-19:00, Sat & Sun 12:00-17:00; Victoria Ceramic Studio, Vesterbrogade 24B, Cph V; free adm Normally the home of six potters, Viktoria Ceramic Studio will for the sixth year in a row transform into a shopping wonderland where you can purchase goodies such as Copenhagen’s finest ceramics, jewellery, leather, knitwear and more unique items. Source sample products that you will not be able to find anywhere else, including work by designers such as Kasper Kasper and Tina Marie, while CPH Handmade offers exquisite ceramic products. As well as shopping, you can visit the cosy café and enjoy some fresh pastries, hot drinks, and mulled wine.

SKAGERAK DENMARK Nov 24, 11:00-18:00; Indiakaj 2 Cph Ø, Skagerak is a traditional Danish design company that holds an annual Christmas market called the Skagerak Design Universe. This market will bring together a wide range of small brands and passionate artists to present an exclusive selection of crafts. And the market is well-known for its range of tea and Christmas trees.

DESIGNERS MARKET Nov 30-Dec 2 & Dec 7-9, open Fri 12:00-17:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-17:00; Bredgade 68, Cph K The Danske Kunsthåndværkere & Designere will be holding their annual Christmas crafts market in large heated tends at Designmuseum Danmark, where more than 70 independent artists will exhibit their products. As well as free entry to the market, attendees can buy tickets to the museum at a 50 percent discount.

PRISMEN DESIGNERS MARKET Dec 15, 11:00-17:00 ; Holmbladsgade 71, Cph S Over 60 artists and designers from around the country will be selling handmade arts and crafts at this cosy market. With great food and drinks to go with the unique designs, this is a great chance for a day out with the family to take care of some Christmas shopping.

BJÆLKEN CHRISTMAS MARKET Bjælken, Bjælkevangen 71, Kongens Lyngby; Nov 11, 11:00-14:00 This cosy local Christmas market will be the perfect opportunity to pick up personal, handmade presents for your loved ones. The coffee and cake on sale will surely stoke the Christmas spirit as you explore the knitted clothes, jewellery, decorations and art.

PHOTO: FACEBOOK

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PHOTO: FACEBOOK

BALLERUP KUNSTFORENING XMAS MARKET Nov 17-18, 10:00-15:00; Skovlunde Kulturhus, Skovlunde This free local market will see all of the local community coming out and enjoying the start of the Christmas. There will be æbleskiver, beer and gløgg for all. In 2017, 900 local people came to enjoy the festivities – some of which sold handmade crafts that are great for presents.

FLID’S XMAS MARKET Dec 3-4, 11:00-17:00; Nørrebrohallen, Cph N; over12s 30kr, under-12s free adm: flidmarked.com Entrepreneurs, craftsmen and other exhibitors will be selling their one-off knick-knacks.

Prints, jewellery and ceramics will heavily feature. Cards and Mobilepay accepted! Check the website for a list of the 100-odd stall holders.

BAGHUSDK XMAS MARKET Dec 13-14 & 20-21, 10:00-16:00; Vesterbrogade 107B, Cph V; free adm The Danish furniture, ceramics and jewellery designers at BaghusDK sell prototypes, discontinued goods, samples and exhibition products – all of their own creation. Look out for the discounts in their big Christmas sale and check out their range on the Facebook page.

PHOTO: CHRISTOFFER ASKMAN

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REVIEWS

COFFEE HOUSE

RESTAURANT

RESTAURANT

PHOTO: JOKUTI.COM

PHOTO: FACEBOOK

PHOTO: FACEBOOK

JUNO THE BAKERY Arhusgade 48, Cph Ø, closed Mon & Tue, open Wed-Sat 07:30-18:00 & Sun 09:0015:00; pastries: 25kr The moment you turn onto Århusgade you are struck by the nostalgic smell of fresh bread and sweet pastries – a smell that attracts people to queue up outside at every moment of the day. Byens Bedste award winner Juno the Bakery specialises in fresh treats that are sure to get foodies’ mouths watering. It is the perfect place for a coffee and pastry in the morning before a long day out in town. All of their products are organic, including their signature kardemomme snurrer, a fragrant, light pastry that will almost certainly leave you wanting more. As city blogger Purple Foodie said after snaffling the viennoiserie: “Juno the Bakery, you are absolutely incredible.” (RM)

DISTRICT TONKIN Dronningens Tværgade 12, Cph K, open SunWed 11:00-09:30, Thu-sat 11:00-23:00; mains 58-120kr; district-tonkin.squarespace.com It is seldom a restaurant is as authentic as District Tonkin. Close your eyes and you could be on a small Vietnamese street enjoying some pho. The authenticity goes as far as the small outside plastic chairs characteristic of Hanoi’s busy streets and markets. The baguettes are light, well baked and filled with spicy meat and fresh Vietnamese flavours. I would recommend the pho, a Vietnamese noodle soup. Vietnam’s national dish is spicy and full of flavour, and with some rare beef and bean-sprouts you can’t go wrong. For those concerned about eating healthily, there are noodle salads that bring the flavours, smells and feelings of Vietnam right into Copenhagen. (RM)

COFFEE HOUSE

BRUNCH

COFFEE HOUSE

PHOTO: FACEBOOK

PHOTO: GROED.COM

PHOTO: MEYERSMAD.DK

DEMOCRATIC COFFEE BAR Krystalgade 15, Cph K, open Mon-Fri 07:3019:00, Sat-Sun 09:00-17:00; coffee and food from 25kr Democratic Coffee Bar lies in a prime location for students, businessmen and tourists alike to get top quality morning coffee, breakfast or even sit working alongside a cappuccino and the best croissants outside of Paris. The bar oozes a love of good coffee and pastries unparalleled around the city. All the pastries are made in-house, and you can tell.

Democratic always has great music playing, from jazz to modern hip-hop and everything inbetween, making it hard to find a better atmosphere to take a break or work around the city. The refreshing feel is only helped by the tall glass windows flooding the room with natural light from busy Krystalgade. (RM)

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TOMMY’S BURGER JOINT Hørkerboderne 21-23, Cph V, open SunThu 11:00-21:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-22:00; burger/fries/soda: 99kr; burgerjoint.dk There are many great burger places in Copenhagen, but few exude the charm, love and quality of this small energetic Icelandic joint. Its location in the lively district of Kødbyen makes it the perfect choice before a busy night out or a quick lunch stop while traversing the small streets. The restaurant is cosy and offers several menu deals consisting of a burger, fries and drink. The burgers are simple but succulent and filled with flavour, the fries crispy and crunchy.

The sweet potato fries are truly special: sweet and salty in all the right ways. All of this can be washed down by a massive chocolate or strawberry milkshake or a craft beer brewed in Iceland. (RM)

GRØD Jægersborggade 50, Cph N; open Mon-Fri 07:30-19:00, Sat-Sun 09:00-19:00; porridge dishes from 45kr; groed.com On a chilly day in Copenhagen, GRØD supplies delicious porridges, oatmeal, and risottos to warm the soul. GRØD’s primary location sits in a very hygge space in Norrebro decked out with wooden tables and plush pillows. The Havegrod is absolutely delicious: warm oatmeal with fresh apple slices and caramel. At lunch, it has an outstanding chicken congee filled with clusters of crunchy peanuts coated in soy sauce accentuated by the taste of ginger. GRØD also has a location in Torvehalleren and serves its porridge in white paper cups to a constant line of hungry customers. GRØD seems to always be busy – a reflection of the quality of their food. (AC)

MEYERS BAGERI Store Kongensgade 46, Cph K; open Mon-Fri 07:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 07:00-14:00; pastries from 25kr, bread from 45kr, cakes from 90kr With multiple locations around town, Meyers Bageri bakes excellent pastries.

Their cinnamon rolls are flaky and crisp and drenched in a pool of warm dark chocolate – ask for napkins when you order it. Another cinnamon roll features denser dough, twisted in a pleasing swirl that overflows with a brown sugar cinnamon filling. The bakery offers a whole range of traditional Danish pastries, including a Spandauer with croissant-like dough surrounding a delicious vanilla custard.

The cappuccinos are admirably balanced with a bitter finish. Their pastries go fast, particularly at their Nørrebro location, so get there early to experience their best baked goods. (AC)

TH E COPE NH AG E N POST TO U RI S M M AGAZI NE • AUTUMN 2018

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BAR

DUDES Vesterbrogade 55A, Cph V; open Mon-Thu 15:00-00:00, Fri 15:00-02:00, Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-00:00; special offer: 30 percent off weekend beer & pizza before 16:00; dudes.bar

AUTHOR: TESS WESTBROOK

Dude, where’s my favourite bar?

Many places in Copenhagen do good pizza. And many places in Copenhagen do good beer. Dudes, which opened six month ago in the heart of Vesterbro, set out to offer both.

PRIME LOCATION Our first impression is that Dudes has it all worked out. The exterior is clean and modern, with huge, open windows overlooking outdoor seating in Vesterbro Torv.

A second outdoor area in the centre of the square offers a vantage point to watch people walking to and from the Meatpacking District.

But with Dudes now sneaking onto the radar, people might begin stopping here instead of Mother (pizza) or Warpigs (beer). And I would recommend you do so.

INTERNATIONAL AND LOCAL The first thing that stands out is the staff. Huge smiles and a warm welcome greet us, before they jump right in with helping us pick out a pint from the impressive 24 beers on tap they offer.

Despite the international feel of the bar, all of them are from Danish breweries and they rotate every week – it’s clearly important to Dudes to work hard to promote local brews and interesting new pints.

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The staff’s diversity really stands out when a Spanish-speaking family arrives for lunch. Sebastian the bar supervisor was able to guide them through the menu in Spanish so they could order comfortably and enjoy the meal.

It was a little touch that made all the difference.

Meanwhile, Mick, one of the bar’s three co-owners, has a warmth that radiates through the establishment, and his passion is clearly visible in the food and drinks that it serves.

Through his experience working alongside breweries, as well as at several city bars, he learned that if you use quality ingredients, you’ll attract customers, whether it’s families, after-work crowds, tourists or locals.

DELICIOUS DIPS With our beers chosen – one citrus IPA from Brus and one pilsner from Hancock – our attention turns to what wood-fired pizza we’re going to choose.

Having only six options does not make the choice easier. With many of the ingredients shipped in from Italy and the crust made using beer – plus the chefs being the crème de la crème of pizza chefs – the temptation to have one of each is huge.

The options range from classics like

prosciutto and arugula to unique creations such as the pickled apple with smoked cheese and pork.

Don’t, whatever you do, miss out on the dips accompanying the pizzas. As far as Dudes is concerned, the base is as important as the topping, and it offers four custom-made dips to accompany your crust.

We had two: the truffle, and the thyme and balsamic. I was held back from licking out the containers at the end, they were that good. Meanwhile, the pizzas were uncomplicated and delicious.

WHAT MICK SAID Ever interested in promoting their local produce, Dudes have begun rolling out a ‘Tap Takeover’, which allows a different brewery to come in and take over all 24 taps with their brews. This has proved a huge hit, meaning people can interact directly with a brewery in the comfort of Dudes.

This place is not fussy. You order at the bar and pick up your food when it is ready. Most major sports games are shown inside on one of the big screens, and there is live music two nights a week. Rock star memorabilia serves as decoration.

As Mick says, why have fussy when you can have a small menu and do it really well? I wholeheartedly agree.

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REVIEWS

RESTAURANT

PHOTO: @ANDERSPIHLOLSEN

SLURP RAMEN JOINT Nansensgade 90, Cph N; open Tue-Sun 12:00-14:30 & 17:00-22:00, closed Mon; mains: 135kr; slurpramen.dk

Slurp Ramen Joint takes a traditional Japanese comfort food and transforms it into an exciting, modern dinner out, perfect for groups looking for a quick but exciting dining expe-rience. The menu is focused and offers a small variety of starters like gyoza and even crispy fried chicken, good for sharing with your foodie friends. The star of the show is the ramen. Traditional, yet experimental, each dish offers a different kind of soup and protein, and there is even a delicious shitake mushroom based vegetarian option. The top-quality food and great atmosphere amplified by the fantastic modern music choices make this a must for Copenhageners. (RM) RESTAURANT

PHOTO: @BAESTCOPENHAGEN

BÆST Guldbergsgade 29, Cph N; open Mon-Wed 17:00-22:00, Thu-Sun 12:0014:30 & 17:00-22:30; pizzas 100-145kr; baest.dk

Bæst is a dining experience designed to be shared with friends and family. The sharing platters of charcuterie, homemade cheeses and exceptional unique pizza will bring any crowd together. All the ingredients are locally-sourced – mostly from their own farm 40 km away where their 16 cows produce milk for the variety of hand-stretched cheeses (the stracciatella is a must-try). The pizzas are cooked in a 500-degree wood-fired oven, resulting in a crispy dough. Each pizza has its own unique personality and ingredients, perfect for photos. Pick a variety and share with your friends over an excellent bottle or two of sustainable, organic red wine. (RM) RESTAURANT

PHOTO: MAHALLE.DK

MAHALLE Birkegade 6, Cph N; open Mon-Sun 10:00-18:00; dishes 25-115kr Nestled in Nørrebro, this Lebanese restaurant has a charming white tile interior that is dwarfed by the quality of its food. Mahale’s Sunday brunches include some of the best hummus I have ever tried. A pool of saffron olive oil interrupted by juicy pomegranate seeds sitting in the middle of the dip waits eagerly to be disrupted by freshly-baked pitas and sliced vegetables. The hummus is accompanied by a vibrant citrus salad with sweet pomegranate seeds, fresh mint and crumbled walnuts. The roasted meats are also a great choice. Kebabs and the beef and lamb selection provide a great lunch for someone looking for an easy meal. (AC) THE COP EN HAGEN PO ST TO UR I S M M AGAZ I N E • AU T U MN 2 0 1 8

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