CPH Post RELOCATION Summer 2020

WONDERFUL COPENHAGEN

WONDERFUL COPENHAGEN

WELCOME TO COPENHAGEN A SAFE, GREEN AND FRIENDLY CITY

First, I would like to thank you for making the decision to move and relocate to our beautiful city of Copenhagen.

For some of you, it is the intention to pursue your future career here in Denmark that draws you to us. For others, you may come here as a spouse or a student in order to support your family or to study.

Either way you are most welcome.

We need you!

As Danish society and Copenhagen return to normal following the Coronavirus Crisis, they need eligible international labour to fill the vacant positions in many of our companies.

International labour creates growth and more jobs, and we cannot afford to lose the progress and development in which foreign labour plays such an important part.

As mayor of employment and integration, I wish to thank you for your future contribution to the Danish welfare state in which you are about to live.

Without you, we would be a poorer society.

Make the most of it Once you are here, I recommend that you make use of all the opportunities that an open and friendly city like the Danish capital has to offer.

Copenhagen is ranked as one of the safest cities in the world, and you can easily enjoy

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a nighttime stroll in the inner city or a picnic watching the sun set over the King’s Garden (Kongens Have). Within walking distance are many museums, castles and other cultural highlights.

Green city, good food, cold weather We are also amongst the greenest cities on the planet, so do use our excellent bike paths as much as you can. And go see for yourselves what the different neighbourhoods of Copenhagen have to offer. When it comes to cultural and culinary experiences, your brain and stomach will be full, I’m sure of it.

Be warned that the weather can be unpredictable during the Danish summer, so remember to bring clothes (and an umbrella!) for all kinds of situations. But trust me, the sun will come out eventually, and you will feel the warmth and pleasant atmosphere of Copenhagen on your face and body.

Use our many sports clubs, churches and other religious places, the social gatherings at your workplace or university, or a course at an education association, and don’t give up if your first try fails. A Dane is a friend you haven’t met yet!

You can also engage in local politics or the democratic institutions at your child’s school or at your place of education.

Remember, we Danes take pride in the fact that Denmark is a society concerned with the well-being of all our citizens.

So, observe and learn from the Danish way of living while you’re here, and we would love to enhance our lives and society by doing the same with all the fine and enriching elements of life you bring to us.

I’m very happy to bid you welcome to Copenhagen and I wish you a great stay.

So, go out and visit our many green spaces and the clean harbour where you can take a dip; try our city bikes and the street kitchen where you will most likely find food from your own home country.

The way of the Dane Danes are warm and open-minded people, but sometimes we need to be unlocked from our Nordic coolness. On the outside we can seem a little distant, but if you make an effort you will get friends for life and experience the world-famous Danish ‘hygge’.

CECILIA LONNING-SKOVGAARD Mayor of employment and integration

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I think we can all agree that you can indeed find Danes who are welcoming, Danes who respond well when you reach out, and Danes who become your loyal friends for a long time. Confirmed.

But, as an expat more than 10 years in the making, I could also tell you about cold temperaments, xenophobia, and the subtle arrogance produced by the combination of the Janteloven code and the belief that Denmark really is the best country on this planet. But I don’t want to discourage you!

The word I’m looking for is … proactive Relocating will be full of challenges, though certainly nothing you can’t handle.

After all, you’ve just survived a global pandemic.

As the mayor said, observe and learn from the Danes, who will do the same with you if they’re smart. It can be easy to lose sight of the wealth of knowledge you can gain from this experience, so don’t.

Whatever happens, always remember the bottom line shared by all expats: no matter what adversaries we might face, we are still one culture, one language and one challenging endeavour richer than we

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would’ve been without relocating.

Best of luck, my expat friend!

So what’s this all about?

This supplement is jam-packed with guides to help you master your relocation: we bring you a five-part series that maps the journey of relocation with tips on landing a job in Denmark, making the actual move, sending your kids to school and helping your spouse settle in as well as possible; comprehensive overviews of the healthcare system and public transportation; tips for building or kickstarting your social life; and suggestions for outdoor activities to embark on during the summer.

Now let us get started with a quick overview of the coronavirus situation in Denmark.

Indeed, this supplement can also be a useful tool for those of you who have been here for a while but are looking for new opportunities or bits of knowledge.

We also include an intriguing conversation with an anthropologist on Danish society and the act of relocation, so if you’re simply here for an interesting read, we’ve got you covered.

And there is more. So go ahead, read the supplement, use it and make the most of your new life in Denmark.

SOMA BIRÓ - Editor Publisher: CPH POST • CEO Hans Hermansen • Editor: Soma Biró • Layout: CPH POST • Info: hans@cphpost.dk • Tel: +452420 2411

WONDERFUL COPENHAGEN

HIT THE GROUND RUNNING

schools for older children to open up.

Professional sport also returned, but with an audience lending their support via Zoom, and the distancing rule was halved from two metres to one.

Sans Sweden After three months, Denmark is easing its border restrictions from June 15 for tourists from Germany, Iceland and Norway.

LIBERATED FROM A LOCKDOWN … AGAIN

By Ayee Macaraig But unlike in 1945, Denmark has been cautious to reopen everything at once, and it’s bad news for clubbers, fitness fanatics and big crowd event fans As new arrivals in Denmark, you find yourself in a newly liberated land, ironically perhaps just 75 years after the lockdown under the Nazis was lifted. But while the end of the German Occupation during World War II was celebrated by tens of thousands of Danes taking to the streets, there will be no such gatherings for the foreseeable future.

Because one thing is for sure: no major ‘superspreader’ events can go down, so goodbye

Distortion (street festival), Copenhagen Jazz Festival and Roskilde Festival, we’ll see you in 2021. Mange tak coronavirus.

Swift reopening Phase 3 of the reopening ushered in an easing of gathering sizes, raising the permissible number from ten to 50, along with new guidelines for wedding and confirmation celebrations.

But in truth, most establishments were given the green light to open as part of Phase 2 in May, which allowed, amongst others, cinemas, theatres, bars, restaurants, cafes, museums, churches, shopping centres and

Tourists must show documentation upon arrival of a valid booking of at least six nights (five nights during the first week of reopening).

They cannot however stay in the municipalities of Copenhagen and Frederiksberg due to the high prevalence of the virus.

As for Sweden, dialogue is ongoing for a possible reopening before August 31. Sweden drew international headlines for its relaxed, no-lockdown approach, which has resulted in the highest death rate in the Nordic region.

But entry for the rest of the world is unlikely before August 31, which has prompted couples with locked-out lovers to urge Parliament to allow their partners to visit after months of separation.

The numbers As of June 9, Denmark has recorded 593 deaths from the virus and 11,962 cases, according to Statens Serum Institut.

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FACEBOOK/MENY

A QUARTER OF A CENTURY OF SERVICE Meny, the flagship store at Rotunden – Hellerup Foodmarket since 2014, is continuing a long-held tradition of giving internationals a taste of home Empire film magazine delights in asking people in the film industry how much a pint of milk costs – regardless of whether they grew up in a country that uses the metric system.

In Denmark, though, a more fun game is to ask how much a bumper bag of PG Tips costs from one of the ethnic grocery shops commonly found in the likes of Vesterbro or Nørrebo.

Their upbringing in a country where tea bags generally cost a krone a dunk (somebody has been making serious money in that domain!) – and additional boiling water will set you back 20-30 times that much – has left them completely out of touch with the reality that tea has been cheaply imported for centuries.

Marmite messiahs PG Tips is just one of the many Anglo brands that internationals pine for after moving to Denmark. Marmite, Branston Pickle and Monster Munch crisps, along

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with French’s mustard and Jack Daniel’s barbecue sauce, are just some of the many staples they struggle to do without.

Fortunately, over the last two decades, things have got a lot better. Long gone are the days when you couldn’t find cheddar cheese, back bacon or baked beans in your local supermarket.

And we have three crusaders to thank for this, of which two no longer have physical premises: Dave Darlington of Food From Home, who started a home delivery in the 1990s before becoming a wholesaler, and Abigail’s, a Copenhagen city centre shop that is now completely online.

This leaves us with the Rotunden centre in Hellerup, the unofficial capital of expats in Denmark, which since 1995 has ensured its flagship supermarket, Rotunden – Hellerup Foodmarket, includes a special section with all manner of goods from the US, UK and other Anglophone countries.

Already a firm favourite Since late 2014, the spot at Rotunden has been filled by Meny, the Norwegian highend chain that has quickly made its presence felt in the Danish market despite only

operating here for just five years.

By 2018, it was already regarded as the country’s third most popular supermarket – notably behind non-Danish operators Rema 1000 and Lidl! – and part of its appeal has always been catering to diverse tastes, as Hellerup is not the only store that sells Anglo goods.

Charlottenlund and Østerbro, which also have their fair share of internationals, also have clearly marked sections.

But Meny in Hellerup is far from being a one-trick pony, as it is equally popular with Danish shoppers in the area, offering 5,000 organic products and specialties from all over the world The supermarket takes pride in its ability to overcome challenges, whether it is informing a customer which wine goes best with barbecued food, or delivering four crates of chilled drinks to the party of your choice.

Perhaps this was best exemplified during the Coronavirus Crisis when it solved the problem of hoarding by offering one bottle of hand-sanitiser for 40 kroner – and two bottles for 1,000 kroner!

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THE JOURNEY OF RELOCATION YOUR GUIDE TO SETTLING IN DENMARK THE BEST WAY POSSIBLE

BY NATHAN WALMER With its humble population size, Denmark has long punched above its weight in many respects from its education system to its successes in the pharmaceutical industry and in green technology.

As a small country however, companies of all sizes are increasingly turning to international talent to fill job gaps and to spark innovation in their workplaces.

The Danish economy is also heavily reliant on its burgeoning export industry and companies have a need for candidates who are native to the foreign markets they service and who are fluent in the local language.

For these reasons and more, Denmark has been a popular draw over the years for

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international workers and students.

Organisations, both governmental and non-governmental, have helped facilitate the recruitment of international talent and promote Denmark as a great place to live and work.

Accompanying this trend is a growing relocation industry that works to simplify the process of relocating to Denmark.

So, what all goes into relocating to a country like Denmark anyway? And what resources are available to those in their relocation journey?

A guide that’s here to help You’re looking at a five-part series that charts some of the necessary steps in

a relocation journey: from finding the right job, applying for it, planning your relocation and getting assistance, to finding the right school for your children and helping your partner or spouse land a job as well.

Contributors to the series cover many aspects involved in a move to Denmark and include representatives from non-profits, national government and commune organisations, educational institutions, and the relocation industry.

Whatever your reasons for moving to Denmark, knowing what resources are available to you and others will make for a smoother relocation journey. So let’s get going!

and LinkedIn page for jobseekers in English.

Events and seminars Apart from their use of digital platforms for recruitment and job search advice, Angelo and her colleagues also host events and meet jobseekers in person.

“We visit around 40 international job fairs yearly. Mainly in Europe,” notes Angelo.

- Ida Maria Angelo

GETTING STARTED No two relocation journeys are the same. Many, however, begin with a job offer from a company in Denmark.

Companies of all sizes in Denmark are increasingly turning to international candidates to fill roles, and agencies like Workindenmark are helping to facilitate this process.

Living and working in Denmark Work in Denmark’s mission, as part of the Ministry of Employment, is to assist Danish companies in recruiting highly qualified foreign candidates in the sectors where companies face skills shortages, such as in IT, life sciences and engineering.

However, they also provide information, tools and guidance to international jobseekers of all work backgrounds and experience.

Their website (workindenmark. dk) offers a free e-learning course and video tutorials on searching for a job in Denmark, as well as a wealth of information on moving to, living in, and of course, working in Denmark. This includes

For international jobseekers already in Denmark, there are typically plenty of opportunities to attend an event. “I do a lot of career counselling and I hold motivational speeches for internationals, and I advise on where to go and how to target a CV to a Danish employer,” says Angelo. She also hosts monthly job search seminars that cover everything from how to approach your job search to what to focus on when writing an application. At the moment, she is hosting job search webinars instead of physical seminars to adjust to the current situation.

Some good advice and a hint of PR “You should show your personality and see it as a full-time job to look for a job in Denmark. Really try to tell them why you’re the perfect fit for that company, and not just what you have done in the past – which is a mistake a lot of people make,” asserts Angelo.

Part of her job is to highlight the good things about Denmark to attract international talent: “Denmark is quite popular. We talk about our work-life balance and that most of us have only 37-hour work weeks. We also have five weeks of holiday – and this is quite unusual in many other countries.” Angelo’s last bit of advice? “Just get used to the bad weather. No, I’m kidding!”

Also visit newtodenmark.dk to find the most up-to-date information on the rules and schemes available to EU, non-EU, EEA and Swiss citizens seeking to live and work in Denmark.

information on all necessary steps and practical matters involved toward being allowed to live and work in Denmark as a foreign national – EU, non-EU, EEA and Swiss citizens alike.

A tale of two databases Perhaps most importantly, Workindenmark maintains both an online public database of all English-texted job vacancies from Danish companies as well as a CV database currently used by 3,500 companies seeking candidates for positions in their company. “We have a CV database of approximately 14,000 CVs currently,” says Ida Maria Angelo, an international recruitment consultant for Workindenmark. “We contact people in the database that match with open positions and encourage them to apply.”

Workindenmark partners with more than 240 companies, which include world-class firms like Microsoft and Maersk. Anyone who visits the website is free to create a personal profile and upload their CV to the database.

Workindenmark also has a LinkedIn page for employers in Danish as well as a Facebook

A focus on learning

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RELOCATION SUMMER GUIDE 2020

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PIXABAY

- Michele Bramstoft

MAKING THE MOVE

Relocating to a new country can be an enormous undertaking with many variables to consider: How do I obtain a work permit? What paperwork do I need to immigrate lawfully? Where can I find a suitable place to live for me and my family? Which school should I enrol my children in? What paperwork should I be armed with in order to bring our dog Furdinand into the country?

Copenhagen Relocations to the rescue The number of things to think about in preparation for leaving and upon arrival can be overwhelming. There is however a growing industry that caters to transferees and whose job it is to reduce the task list before, during, and after the move.

“We’re doing everything we can to make the process easier so the client can focus on their job. That is the purpose of relocation services, lightening the relocation load and helping to reduce the stress related to moving,” says Michele Bramstoft of Copenhagen Relocations.

Bramstoft is the managing director and owner of Copenhagen Relocations and has been in the industry for 22 years. She is an American expat to Denmark herself, living in Copenhagen for the last 25 years, and has witnessed the industry evolve and flourish over time.

Bring in the innovators

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“Denmark is a small country and we need extra, outside talent to fill in the job gap.

Companies are looking for innovation and diversity. I think that most people have understood that you get an explosion of innovation when you bring together different inputs,” Bramstoft contends.

complicated process,” says Bramstoft.

“I think the main reason our industry has grown over the last 10 years is because big companies have a need to be able to bring in their international talent more easily.”

Depending on the needs and circumstances of the transferee, they can perform services like school and child care searches, vehicle and pet importation, and ‘settling in’ services that cover an array of necessities like getting a CPR number, opening a Danish bank account and getting your TV and wifi operational.

Most clients of Copenhagen Relocations have already received a job offer in Denmark and had their relocation arranged by their company. Copenhagen Relocations has also performed services for people simply seeking to move to Denmark, and for students with things like home-finding.

Mounting immigration On the immigration front, Copenhagen Relocations has a team of specialists dedicated to finding solutions and navigating transferees through Denmark’s often rigid and complicated immigration processes.

This can involve everything from filing visa or family reunification applications, to obtaining a work and residency permit, to document procurement and legalisation.

“The bulk of our work is filing applications for non-EU citizens and home-finding.

Immigration as a whole too – but mainly non-EU because it’s a longer and more

Honey, the wi-fi’s down again!

While home-finding constitutes the bulk of their work on the relocation side of things, there are many more services involved in the process.

Orientation tours are also typically a part of the relocation experience where the client can ask questions and get a preview of the new city, its neighbourhoods, and sample housing.

But where will we live exactly?

“We do an unbiased and thorough search of the entire housing market to find what is suitable for our client and their budget – and that market has changed over the years too,” Bramstoft continues.

“The whole relocation industry has evolved and for the better. A lot of things are easier now and there are a lot more options on the market, though it may take a little longer to sift through them all – but that means happy transferees so it’s a win-win!”

For more information, see relocate.dk

PIXABAY

FEET ON THE GROUND - Karey-Anne Duevang

Suppose you have just arrived or are already residing in Denmark as an international and you just can’t find a job.

Where can you turn to for support?

One place to start is ‘English Job Denmark’ – a non-profit organisation whose aim is to provide information, guidance, and advice geared specifically for internationals in Denmark searching for English-speaking jobs.

A community, some podcasts and a bunch of jobs It is primarily an online, communitybased organisation with a website (englishjobdenmark.dk) that hosts Q&A sessions and podcasts as well as provides useful web links and articles. In addition, they maintain and moderate a Facebook group of close to 13,000 members that has daily job postings for different job categories each day.

“Although we help moderate the group, it’s very much the community members that are at the heart of this group because they help one another,” says Karey-Anne Duevang, director of English Job Denmark.

Duevang works as a career strategist, drawing on both her expertise with the Danish work culture and recruitment processes as well as her own first-hand experience living 17 years in Denmark as a British expat in order to help others.

Networking is key Duevang stresses the importance of networking when looking for work in Denmark. “Expand your network on LinkedIn, with people such as yourself, and try and meet people. Network is key here. When you arrive in another country, if you have a limited network, it limits the

opportunity you have to gain employment.”

The public employment service Work in Denmark supports this claim, estimating that over 50% of jobs are filled by networking, not from job ads. English Job Denmark, through its Facebook page, workshops, and networking events, intends to provide the platform and tools necessary for the international community in Denmark to grow their network and for companies and recruiters to find them.

“Being prepared to help other people in order to help yourself – that goes a long way in Denmark and people really remember that, and that also goes a long way in building your network,” explains Duevang.

Cultural understanding The work culture in Denmark is as unique as ‘hygge’ or smørrebrød and is part of why the country is so revered by many expats.

Duevang contends that without a proper understanding of Danish work values and what companies and recruiters are looking for, it can be very difficult for internationals to compete in the Danish job market. “The biggest challenge is cultural understanding.

People can arrive in Denmark with the best, most accomplished CV and some wonderful experience, but unfortunately unless you understand how to communicate that to a Danish workplace then you’re not going to succeed. So sometimes we have to align people with what they’ve achieved personally to the Danish market.”

English Job Denmark supports internationals through this challenge with guidance and information on tailoring your CV, cover letter, and LinkedIn to suit the

Danish job market. Duevang also adds: “It’s not just about the salary at the end of the month here. What recruiters in Denmark are looking for are people that are committed to their values – their mission as a company.”

Businesses looking to internationals There are many reasons companies in Denmark turn to internationals to fill roles – one of which can be the cultural understanding and perspective they bring from outside Denmark. Duevang elaborates on this point in noting: “Understanding what you have and what you can offer can also be where you come from. Denmark’s all about innovation, it’s about entrepreneurial spirit, so these new ways of doing things and understanding business goals are very attractive to Danish recruiters here.”

In a word, Duevang describes the job market for English-only or non-Danish speakers as: “Tough”. But she also thinks that the resources available to international job-seekers in Denmark are better and more expansive than ever before.

“That’s also what we use ‘English Job Denmark’ for: a platform to communicate and motivate to stay focused on what your end goal is, and that you will get there. The benefits you reap will be absolutely worth it. Just keep going,” says Duevang.

A piece of advice To send you off, here’s a final nugget by Duevang as you embark on the quest to land the dream job: “We call these the ‘three golden rules’: one, prove that you can deliver on the job; two, prove that you can fit in with the existing team; and three, prove that you will stay once you get that position.”

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Deciding to pick up and move your family to a foreign country is a major life decision that requires deep care and thought. And one of the most impactful decisions in this process is finding the right school for your child to attend.

One option to turn to are the several international schools in Copenhagen that are experienced in teaching and accommodating children from all over the globe who have relocated to the city.

Copenhagen International School Copenhagen International School (CIS) is one such school that has a student body of around 950 students from close to 80 different countries and teaches children from the age of 3 on through high school.

“Our mission at CIS is to learn and to build a community,” says CIS middle school principal Karen Rohrs.

“We’re an international school, so we bring people from different cultures together. The students bring a diversity of experiences to our community and I think that blended community helps strengthen who we are as a school.”

A community that understands Rohrs adds that many students are in a transitional phase and are used to fellow students coming and going and can more easily empathise with each other in that

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respect. Even the families of incoming students are often extended a welcoming hand.

“We have a very active parent-teacher association and new families are generally buddied with a family that has already been in Copenhagen for some time.

They’ve helped with things like getting families acclimated with the city, where to find groceries, and they even produced a transition booklet with information for when you move here,” says Rohrs.

An international curriculum Classes at CIS are taught in English – though Danish language is also taught – and the curriculum focuses on skills and values that are transferable across cultures like critical thinking, problem solving, and being a resilient learner.

Rohrs explains: “We’re an International Baccalaureate (IB) school which is a program that other schools across the world have in place, and I think that helps with the transition. Some of the students coming in from other countries have been in IB schools before and so they’re already familiar with it.”

Getting orientated There is an online process in applying to CIS, though Rohrs and the admissions team make an effort to present their school as openly as possible and to create a dialogue with the families of incoming and potential students.

“Tours are ongoing at our schools. We have quite a number of people who are in-country who will take a tour, or they might come do a visit if they’re moving to Denmark in the future,” says Rohrs.

“Another thing that’s available are taster days. Students will come in, we’ll meet them in the morning, they’ll have a buddy that they’ll shadow for the day, and then meet at the end of the day with either the counsellor or myself.”

Relocation specialists will often refer clients to Copenhagen’s international schools for tours as well, and for good reason. The schools offer a unique learning environment for the children of internationals to gain new perspectives on life from their peers and to feel more comfortable in a land that might not yet feel like home.

- Karen Rohrs

PIXABAY

CHILDREN CONCERNS

Some come to study, while others take the plunge in following their loved ones to Denmark. For these individuals, the city has made a conscious effort to help assimilate them into the workforce and make them feel welcome.

PIXABAY

There is a lot to love about Copenhagen – as it turns out, not everyone journeys here exclusively for the cycling and the rugbrød slathered with pickled fish.

AND THE SPOUSE TOO

Copenhagen Career Program “We’ve seen statistically that if one family member has relocated due to gaining employment here in Denmark, very often there is a spouse or accompanying partner who will remain home or is unable to find employment,” Karey-Anne Duevang with English Job Denmark explains.

It is for this reason that the City of Copenhagen launched the Copenhagen Career Program (CCP): it offers a 5-day job search course for relocating partners.

“The primary focus of the course is to provide participants with knowledge about the Danish job market and with tools for their job search,” says Dorthe Vesterlund, project coordinator for the CCP and Greater Copenhagen Career Program (GCCP).

“Also, we arrange matchmaking events and company visits to facilitate meetings between the Danish businesses and the international talents.”

The service is free and is also available to the accompanying spouses/partners of those in the greater Copenhagen area studying at Danish schools. Monthly meetings are held at International House Copenhagen where they discuss the program and other job search resources in greater detail.

Greater Copenhagen Career Program The GCCP is a six-month program with the aim of helping international students and recent graduates of Danish schools find work in Denmark. The course includes a

combination of seminars and workshops covering everything from job interview, presentation, and phone call techniques to CV, cover letter, and LinkedIn tailoring for the jobs you are pursuing.

spouses and students in Copenhagen that she mentors: “Don’t let the rejections, insecurities or negativity get the best of you. Know your value and remind yourself of it regularly,” says Foote.

Each participant will learn under the wing of a personal career mentor throughout the program and will have their work preferences, strengths and weaknesses evaluated to identify what areas can be improved upon toward landing the right job in the Danish job market.

Foote adds that presenting your value to companies is key toward any job hunt: “How will your knowledge, skillset, abilities, or goals create value for a company? Don’t assume that a company can figure you all out based on your degree title or your last job. You are more than a degree or a CV,” Foote explains.

The program is completely free and sees around 80-100 enrolees in each six-month session twice a year. It is also unique to Denmark and was first developed in 2012 to promote Copenhagen and Denmark broadly as a viable place to stay and work post-graduation for the international talent that progress through its schools.

Know your value Akilah Foote, a business consultant for both programs, sees a common pitfall among the international partners/

Welcome to Sustainable Copenhagen Did you know that your new home has one of the world’s most ambitious climate policies with a goal of being the first carbon-neutral capital city by 2025?

Let us help each other keep our city on the green track by making eco-friendly choices.

“Allow them to see what they can get from you. Failure to do so could cost you some opportunities.”

Transitioning to the workforce after graduation or finding employment after following a partner or spouse to Copenhagen is an all too common struggle among new arrivals and the CCP and GCCP are here to make the transition easier. See cphcareerprogram@bif.kk.dk for more information.

Explore by bike

Use public transport

Refill, again and again

Stop plastic

Return and earn

Bin it, don’t sling it

Shop sustainably

Splash, don’t trash

Eat locally

Discover beyond

IN CONVERSATION WITH AN ANTHROPOLOGIST

BY SOMA BIRÓ Danish society can certainly be a mystery sometimes. It’s such a popular place, yet many expats feel isolated and lonely, and a significant percentage decide to up and leave again.

Enter Heiko. From his first name you’d think he’s Japanese. As an anthropologist at the University of Copenhagen, Heiko Henkel’s job is to examine societies and the cultures they create – to unveil their underlying structures and mechanisms.

That’s exactly what I aimed to achieve with Denmark and the expat experience when I called him on a rainy Thursday afternoon.

“I tell you what,” he said with an audibly German accent. “Let me make a cup of coffee and you call me back in ten minutes.

Is that ok?” Ten minutes later, with coffee in hand, we were off to the races: Can you give me a quick beginner’s guide on how anthropology views relocation?

As both an anthropologist and a person who has relocated many times, I would start by saying: people are never just themselves, but live in communities, and much of their happiness and wellbeing has to do with being rooted in that community. But, of course, it also limits

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people – who they can be, what they can hope to achieve and so on. So the communities that people are embedded in are both sources of happiness and limitation. As a result, relocating has a double potential: on the one hand, you are in danger of losing your community, including the resources and the certainty that come with it, as well as its potentiality to give meaning to your life; on the other hand, new horizons emerge, new social relations become possible – it’s an opportunity to remake yourself, to expand who you are. So there’s a loss and a potential gain.

Going a bit more into detail, what are some of the crucial factors in the beginning of a relocation journey?

Well, one of the big questions is: how do you land? How do you find a place in the new community? That depends enormously on what resources you bring to it and how valued you are. Is there a place for you in that new context? For many professionals there is by definition a place, otherwise they would not have moved to begin with.

If you already have a valued position in the community you move to, that’s a good starting point. But e.g. when couples move, often only one person has this valued position but not the other.

But even when you land well, you can still step outside the bubble – in which some might appreciate you – and head down to Netto where the cashier lady has no idea you moved here because there is an aching shortage of doctors in this country. All she knows is that you look different, act different and have a thick accent and ‘oh why can’t they learn Danish’, and now she makes a face.

Yes, that’s true. And Denmark has a really bad retention rate. I’ll give you an example: I work at the university. And the university is very interested in attracting good international researchers. So there is, in principle, a valued place for them to land in Denmark, and yet many international colleagues leave again … very soon.

So what is it that makes it so difficult?

That’s a really good question and there’s a whole plethora of answers. A good one to start with is: relocation is never easy.

What other answers can you think of?

Another answer would be … I’ll give you an example: there’s an enormous difference between arriving at an American university and a Danish one.

An American university is all geared towards receiving new people – there is

WONDERFUL COPENHAGEN

EXPLAINING DENMARK:

WONDERFUL COPENHAGEN

a whole apparatus of welcoming: giving people housing, childcare, health benefits, spousal hire, the whole nine yards. The University of Copenhagen has almost none of that. But why does this happen?

It’s not because they’re evil. The normal employee is from Denmark and mostly from Copenhagen – people who have lived here all their lives. They’re already at home, so they don’t need any of this.

But in the US, the typical employee at Princeton University does not come from Princeton. They basically all come from somewhere else. So the whole university infrastructure is built for receiving them.

Some big companies in Denmark are doing a little better than the university, but I would say that it’s generally true. And I’m sure arriving for a job in Milan is not very easy either. So there’s something about European cities: these are places where many people live their entire lives and so it’s particularly difficult to come from the outside.

Also, Copenhagen is a very white city, although Copenhageners don’t like to think about it like that. I don’t mean there aren’t people of colour living in Copenhagen, because of course there are, lots of them, but the established society feels very white for people of colour. It seems to them as if there’s very little space for those who are not white. That always astonishes Danish colleagues and friends of mine because they don’t perceive themselves as having prejudices.

When you say they feel there is very little space for those who are not white, you mean they feel looked down upon?

Not necessarily looked down upon. But seen as an anomaly.

And the thing is that Copenhagen is by no means homogenous. But it perceives itself as being homogenous. If you ask many Danes, they would answer yes, Denmark is very homogenous as a population. And that is true to some extent, but it is also a self-perception because Copenhagen especially has a very diverse population.

But it’s not so much seen as being in the DNA of the place.

What advice would you give expats about tackling Denmark and relocation in general?

It is important to seriously understand that this takes a very long time. For most people, arriving takes years, if not forever.

The idea that you’ve arrived after 6 months or a year … I know very few people for whom that is the case.

Also, learn Danish. Really try to learn Danish from day one. And send your kids to Danish school or at least to some Danish activities.

Finally, get involved. The more active, the better. It’s much easier to appreciate Danish society if you participate in it. Even if you don’t feel appreciated and you’re fed up. I think, to the extent relocation gets better, it happens by getting involved. If you don’t find the theatre very appealing, the solution, however counterintuitive, is actually to go to the theatre more – to get into the logic of it – and not to go less.

friends from Hellerup to come to Nørrebro and experience it. Nørrebro or Nordvest.

To experience the cultural multiplicity of Copenhagen – it’s not homogenous. And it certainly isn’t dangerous.

How does relocation affect Danish society?

I think it presents Denmark with a real paradox, a real challenge. On the one hand, many Danes really cherish international newcomers and value their input, experiences, and the variety they bring. I think that’s certainly true for the metropolitan part of Denmark. On the other hand, the presence of these newcomers constantly challenges the way that Danes do things. Because, when people come from other places, they often think that one could do things differently.

So there is this ambivalence, and it is this ambivalence that Danish society hasn’t addressed very well: we want people to come and we want to be metropolitan but what do we do with the fact that these newcomers want to do things differently from us?

UNIVERSITY OF NAVARRA

It’s a difficult topic in Copenhagen. Danes are often quite perplexed and even offended if one points that out. Because many, especially the urban middle class in Copenhagen, think of themselves as very welcoming. But in practice they are often experienced as the opposite. I think this is a tension particular to Denmark and Copenhagen – a discrepancy between self-perception and how others perceive you. They think of themselves as cosmopolitan and open minded, but foreigners often view Denmark as exceptionally closed.

And I guess it’s a whole other discussion why Danes think so highly of themselves.

Well, I think part of it is simply that it is a very successful society. It works pretty well.

So don’t expect that Danish society will come to you?

I think that’s a very good way of putting it.

Can I be a bit brutal and just say it? Nobody waited for you here. Get involved. Again and again and again.

Any myths or stereotypes you would like to dispel about Denmark?

I know expats who live in Hellerup and who think that going to Nørrebro is dangerous. And I would invite my expat

Heiko Henkel is a German anthropologist at the University of Copenhagen. He moved with his family from Canada to Denmark in 2007.

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The International Supermarket in Copenhagen Meny Rotunden in Hellerup welcomes Copenhagen’s international community. Already 25 percent of our customers are expats so we are used to international needs. At Rotunden we are constantly striving to be the best supermarket and we are doing our best to fulfill your wishes.

At Rotunden you will find Denmark’s best and most vast assortment of goods, spiced up with a variety temptations for your taste buds. Furthermore, we aim to deliver extraordinary service, making your shopping experience smooth and inspiring.

Free parking, polite customer service, no queuing at the counters and we gladly accept the challenge: Could you please deliver 50 bottles of chilled white wine tomorrow ? We are throwing a barbeque - what kind of wine would you recommend? Can you prepare my crown of lamb?

Online orders and home delivery are available at Rotunden.dk We mean it when we say we are here for our customers.

Rasmus Vejbæk-Zerr, Owner and Sommelier

MENY Rotunden - Hellerup Foodmarket, Strandvejen 64, 2900 Hellerup tlf. 4190 9052, mail 045110@meny.dk www.rotunden.dk Open: Monday-Friday 09-20 · Saturday 09-18 ·Sunday 09-18

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PROBABLY DENMARK’S BEST BUTCHER AND DELI

HERE WE HAVE FRESH TRUFFLES EVERY WEEK!

The specialties in the deli and butcher department are a rare sight and the staff is well educated and provide a high level of customer service.

You will be guided, tempted and inspired.

In Rotunden’s fruit and vegetable department you will find the city’s largest selection of fruits and vegetables from all over the world, with a large selection of organic produce as well as specialty items and a wide selection of fresh herbs, like you won’t find elsewhere.

FRESH LOBSTER AND 6 DIFFERENT KINDS OF OYSTERS

WINE LOVER’S PARA ADISE

Since 1999 Fiskerikajen has delivered high quality fresh fish and seafood. We have an opinion about the fish we sell and we know where it comes from. We are educated in handling seafood and will send you home with only the best.

At Rotunden you will find Denmark’s largest in-store wine department with a wide assortment of high quality wine from every corner of the world - and we know how they all taste. We will help you find just what you need to pair with dinner, which our customers really appreciate.

IF THE MOON WAS MADE OF CHEESE YOU WOULD FIND IT HERE

WE CREATE UNIQUE FLORAL EXPERIENCES

Our cheese department has a selection of over 700 different cheeses.

From soft Italian gorgonzola to cheese produced by small Danish dairy producers. We have cheese from all of the large cheese producing countries along with rare specialty cheeses.

Throughout four generations Gamst Blomster has been driven by the love of plants and flowers, where nothing is imported and cut flowers come directly from the field to your vase, which is your guarantee that these are fresh products.

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PIXABAY

YOUR GUIDE TO THE DANISH HEALTHCARE SYSTEM

DENMARK HAS A COMPREHENSIVE TAX-PAYER FUNDED PUBLIC HEALTH SERVICE

BY STEPHEN GADD Under the Danish healthcare system medical treatment is usually free of charge.

However, dentistry and any medicines prescribed may be charged to the patient, though these costs are often subsidised to some extent by the government National health insurance card All permanent residents in Denmark are eligible to use the healthcare system.

Permanent residents receive a national health insurance card from their local authority which acts as an identity card and must be shown on visits to doctors, emergency rooms and hospitals. Anyone acutely ill is entitled to free hospital treatment, and this also applies to visitors from other countries.

Interpreter If you do not speak or understand Danish, the staff can call in an interpreter to assist you. Likewise, if you need an interpreter at an appointment with a doctor, midwife, health visitor or visiting nurse you should indicate this when you make the appointment. This service is free of charge.

Interpreters are neutral and bound by the rules of professional secrecy.

General practitioners

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Anyone resident in Denmark is entitled to be registered with a general practitioner (GP). Your own GP will normally be able to find out what is wrong with you and how to treat you, but in some cases, may refer you to a specialist or a hospital. The name, address and telephone number of your GP is written on your national health insurance card. In order to see a GP, you will have to make an appointment by phone or via the internet.

If you are dissatisfied with your GP, you can change to another one. Changing a GP without moving to a new address at least 15 kilometres from where your current GP is will incur a 190 kroner fee. If you change GP as a result of moving, that is free of charge.

If you need medication, your GP will prescribe it for you. Prescription medicines can only be bought at pharmacies.

Specialist doctors If your GP deems it necessary, you may be referred to a specialist. Some specialists require no referral, such as eye specialists and ear, nose and throat specialists.

Out-of-hours services

If you become ill outside your own GP’s service hours, you can call the out-of-hours service.

In most cases you will have to go to a treatment centre yourself to see an outof-hours doctor. The out-of-hours service is open from 4 pm to 8 am on weekdays, weekends, and on public holidays.

Emergency Rooms Located at hospitals, emergency rooms are for serious injuries that your own GP cannot treat. At some hospitals you have to phone the emergency room in advance to let them know that you are coming.

Alarm 112 If you need an ambulance, call the emergency centre at 112, stating your name and explaining what has happened, where and when it happened, and where you are calling from.

Pregnancy If you are pregnant, you may be examined several times during the pregnancy by your own GP and a midwife. Ultrasound scanning is also available in hospitals to make sure that all is well with you and the baby and to identify any potential

PIXABAY

problems as early as possible in your pregnancy.

When you are pregnant, the first examination in your pregnancy will be carried out by your GP, who will create a maternity record that you must bring along to all subsequent appointments.

Your GP will notify a midwife of your pregnancy. The midwife will then contact you to make an appointment. Together with your GP you can decide at which hospital you want to give birth to your child. You can also elect to give birth at home with the assistance of a midwife.

Termination In Denmark all women have the right to opt for termination of the pregnancy at a hospital in the first twelve weeks. In order to obtain a termination you must contact your GP, who will then refer you to a hospital.

Childcare in Denmark You will receive assistance from a health visitor in your home when your child has been born up to the age of 2. In addition to examining your child, the visitor can answer any other related questions you may have.

Health checks and child vaccination All children can be examined and vaccinated free-of-charge.

All children in Denmark are also entitled to free dental care until they reach the age of 18.

Upon reaching school age, local authority doctors and nurses will perform preventative examinations of children in their first and last years of schooling, and children will receive automatic appointments with the school dentist. If your child encounters problems at school, you can talk to the school psychologist about them.

Help and care in your own home Special services are offered to elderly people who need care and assistance. Elderly people may apply for home help for personal care, cleaning and assistance with shopping. You can also apply for help if you are very ill.

Elderly people and those who are very ill can also request a district nurse to come to their home

to provide care and administer medication. A doctor will assess your needs in this respect. If you have been hospitalised you may need home help or a nurse to help you when you return to home. Normally, the hospital will contact your local authority to make sure you will be given the help and assistance you need.

Read more The information in the above article is taken from a brochure issued by the Danish Health Authority and the Danish Cancer Society. The easiest way to obtain this brochure is to visit cancer.dk/international/english, click on ‘Cancer prevention’ and find the link that reads: The Danish healthcare system.

For information about the coronavirus in Denmark, see the Health Authority’s website: sst. dk/en/English For seniors, more information about your rights and opportunities can be found at the DaneAge Association (ÆldreSagen): call +45 33968686 or aeldresagen.dk (but fire up Google Translate because the website is Danish-only).

RELOCATION SUMMER GUIDE 2020

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THE SOCIAL ASPECT

Society of Solitude? Game on!

Often considered to be the home of the happiest people in the world, Denmark appears to be ideal for a seamless transition.

However, the majority of expats struggle to break into the social sphere. According to a survey by InterNations, Denmark is the third worst country for making friends. In fact, 79% said it was difficult to make local friends, while 57% struggled to make new international friends.

So yes, it can be tough, but don’t give up – take it as a challenge. And, by the way, people have made friends in Denmark before and so can you. Below, we give you a few useful tips for building the kind of social life you want.

Getting Started The most important aspect of developing connections after moving to Denmark is to get involved, whether that be through a sporting organisation, volunteering, or an event. A shared interest establishes a relationship rooted in experiences and memories – certainly a good start. With a thriving nightlife and endless opportunities, Copenhagen is the perfect place to dive into your new country. Here’s how to get started…

Learn the language Learning Danish is not only advantageous to your new workplace but it also helps you bridge into Danish life regardless of how long your stay is. There are over 50 language schools in Copenhagen, both public and private, allowing you to find the best learning environment and meet people along the way.

Although the high number of Englishspeaking Danes makes the language a non-essential asset, learning Danish opens up a doorway into integrating by allowing you to be better equipped for social environments and to embrace everyday conversation and comprehension. This also means, however, that you should not be intimidated if you fail to master the Danish tongue: just surge ahead unashamedly, using English – they speak it, you speak it, what’s the problem?

Activities for the active If you’re into any sport, one of the best (and most popular) ways to meet people is getting involved in an athletic club. In addition to the bonding experiences of practices and games, many sports clubs offer fun social

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LET’S HANG OUT!

BY JADE EMERSON HEBBERT activities. One such club is the international Copenhagen Celtic football club. With close to 100 members representing at least 30 different countries, it provides a great social base and new players are always welcome (free trials are the norm!). See copenhagenceltic.com. Other sporting clubs in Copenhagen practice netball, American Football, softball, roller derby, rugby, Gaelic football, lacrosse, and cricket. There’s sure to be something for everyone!

Schools Education can be a life-long endeavour in Denmark. Consider taking a long (8-40 weeks) or a short (1-7 weeks) course at a folk high school with more than a 150 subjects available for both durations, and no upper age limit (though you have to be at least 16 to attend a ‘højskole’). A good way to learn something you always dreamed of trying while also a neat (and very Danish) opportunity to socialise. See danishfolkhighschools.com Night Life As with any large city, Copenhagen has a thriving nightlife when it’s not under a corona induced lockdown and, with the legal drinking age beginning at 16 (18 to be served at bars and clubs), parties are an undeniable force in the Danish social sphere. The extensive bar scene ranges from Ruby, known for its elegant atmosphere in a townhouse from 1740, to the more traditional The Dubliner and Kennedy’s as well as The Globe, which is known as a hub for expats. Clubs, too, can appeal to a variety of different tastes from disco to techno. But you’ll have to wait a

bit if you’re looking to hit the dance floor: though many bars are already up and running with restrictions in place, nightlife won’t reopen before August according to the government’s current corona plan.

For students, every university faculty has a bar where you can unwind and grab a beer after class. If you’re up for an alcohol-laced adventure, consider a bar crawl through each of the faculty bars. Some students even join the bar staff to socialise!

Volunteer As an expat, volunteering is a great way to meet like-minded people, develop new skills, and give back to the community… and often you don’t even need to speak Danish!

Volunteer options include CPH Volunteers, an organisation with meet-ups and events for its almost 2000 members (cphvolunteers.kk.dk/en); The Volunteer Centre (frivilligcentervsv.dk/home); and volunteering.dk, the largest volunteering portal in Denmark. Or you can check out the volunteer fair hosted by International House Copenhagen twice a year.

Additional events The International House hosts events in English, targeting newly relocated persons free of charge. These events span from information sessions on the Danish Tax System and Leisure Guidance to a Christmas party in December. Not only will the sessions provide invaluable information, but they’ll also put you in direct contact with other expats. See ihcph. kk.dk/ for more information.

WONDERFUL COPENHAGEN

Excitement and eagerness may be two of the emotions bubbling in you as an expat ready to conquer your new country – especially after months spent in a semilockdown, courtesy of the coronavirus. Yet, with the enormous change of relocation, other feelings – like isolation and loneliness – can emerge as you struggle to navigate your new social sphere.

SOMA BIRÓ

PUBLIC TRANSPORT IN COPENHAGEN GETTING FROM C TO P (AND H)

BY SOMA BIRÓ When commuting in the Copenhagen metropolitan area, there are three main means of public transportation: S-trains, buses and the Metro – your quickest option (granted your destination lies on any of its three lines). To travel outside the capital area, you’ll find regular trains you can take from different stations in the city.

S-trains S-trains have letter designations without numbers (A, B, Bx, C, D, E, F, H) and they cover a total of 84 stations in the Copenhagen metropolitan area. They run non-stop from Friday to Sunday (not including Sunday nights) and during nights before holidays. As for the rest of the week, they begin their routes at 5 in the morning and stop about half past midnight.

Buses Buses are designated either by a number (14) or a number and a letter (2A).

There are several different types: yellow buses, A-buses, S-buses, R-buses, E-buses, municipality-buses and +Way (or Cityline) buses. There are also night buses, which run between about 00:30 and 06:00 – they are all designated with a number and the letter ’N’. Some of the other buses are also operational during the night: 5C, 2A, 10

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and 250S are a few examples.

The Metro The Metro never sleeps, so you’ll find a ride all day, every day of the week. At your disposal are lines M1, M2, M3 and M4.

TICKETS Where to buy them At every train and Metro station, you’ll find ticket machines. You can usually buy tickets at the local 7-Eleven as well, unless there is a DSB office at that station (DSB is Denmark’s largest train operating company.)

You will find train tickets at DSB’s website, dsb.dk, and their app, as well as on the DOT Tickets app, where bus tickets are also available. Bus tickets can also be purchased on the buses, assuming you have some cash with you.

The zone system If you buy a ticket, you will be able to use it on trains, the Metro and buses in the zones it covers: so a ticket that covers 3 zones will allow you to hop on a Metro and switch over to a bus – inside those zones – without having to pay for a new ticket.

You don’t have to worry too much about the zone system though. As long as you know where you’re headed, you simply buy a ticket to that station and it will automatically include as many zones as you need to get there.

Single tickets You’ll find one way and round-trip tickets through all the mentioned channels. You can bring two children along for free as long as they’re under 12.

CityPass and Copenhagen Card Both are great options for tourists, but expats wishing to quickly acquaint themselves with their new city might also make good use of it. They offer unlimited travel by bus, train and Metro in the Copenhagen metropolitan area (zones 1-99). CityPass also comes in a smaller package that covers zones 1-4. Both can be bought for a duration of 24, 48, 72 or 120 hours – CityPass also has a 96-hour option. CPH Card delivers the added extra of discounts (or free entry) to several museums and attractions.

Buy a CityPass at citypass.dk, ticket machines or on the DOT Tickets app. Copenhagen cards are available at copenhagencard. com or the Copenhagen Card app, which also serves as a digital city guide.

COMMUTER OPTIONS Youth card (Ungdomskort) If you are between 16 and 19, if you’re doing your secondary education, or if you’re studying at a higher education institution, then this is the card for you. You may travel an unlimited number of times (on train, bus and Metro) between your institution and your home, as well as in one of the three sets of zones that make up Zealand – depending on which one you live in. This card will also give you discounts all over the country on regular tickets. If you are a student, you need to be approved for it. A youth card can span from 30 to 120 days.

You can order a youth card at ungdomskort.dk (has an English version).

A commuter card (see below) is cheaper than an Ungdomskort in two cases: if you’re studying at a higher education institution and commute through less than four zones, or if you are not a student but aged 16-19 and travel less than four zones.

Commuter card (Pendlerkort) If you commute but you’re not a student, this is likely the pick for you. You’ll get an unlimited amount of trips within your range of travel for a duration of minimum 30 and maximum 59 days. This card too can be used on buses, trains and the Metro (though this last one needs to be

specifically selected when buying the card).

You can buy a Pendlerkort in the DSB app or the DOT Tickets app – prices are the same.

REJSEKORT It hits the spot There’s a special type of card that comes in many forms and is way cheaper than a regular ticket. The Rejsekort: it can be used almost everywhere – Metro, bus, S-train, etc. All you need to do is to take the card and check in before the trip by holding it to the round, blue spot on the flat, grey stand (you can’t miss it) and check out once you arrived. For buses, you check in on the bus itself. If you change (e.g. from Metro to Strain), you need to check in again, without checking out, and only check out once you reach your final destination.

A plethora of options There are several types of Rejsekort: a few examples are flex (which you can share with others), personal, corporate or a Rejsekort with a commuter area. A Rejsekort with a commuter area, for example, will cost you as much as a normal commuter card (plus 50 kroner for the card itself) with the added ability to use it as a regular Rejsekort when you travel outside your usual route. For most cards, you can arrange an automatic top-up of your balance or do it yourself when needed (on the online self

service, at Rejsekort vending machines or at retailers).

I forgot to check out!

All is not lost: there’s an app called Check Out (Danish: Check Udvej) that you can download and use to report the slip up.

You must do this within ten days after your trip and they won’t charge you more than the price of the journey. However, you can’t use this app if you have an anonymous Rejsekort.

For more info, see rejsekort.dk Apps and websites To make sure you’re travelling with the best ticket for you, visit the following websites for more information: dsb.dk, dinoffentligtransport.dk, m.dk Other useful tools for your travels: Citymapper, Google and Apple maps, and rejseplanen.dk (journeyplanner.dk) Buy a ticket or hide in the bathroom Remember your ticket or beware of the conductors and start slowly walking the other way. Sometimes they’ll let you off with a “make sure to check-in next time”, but on other occasions they are ruthless, ready to make an extra buck for the company – and what an amount that is: your wallet would bleed a total of 750 kroner.

But try not to be downcast, as this is the perfect time to explore the country like you have never done before.

ELLA NAVARRO

It would appear that we won’t be able to travel abroad much this summer.

FIVE REGIONS TO VISIT THIS SUMMER LET 2020 BE THE YEAR IN WHICH YOU DISCOVER YOUR FAVOURITE PART OF DENMARK

After all, in good weather Denmark really does have it all: from sandy beaches and forests, to islands and historical attractions.

The Germans are coming!

Already it looks like the most popular destination among Danish holiday-goers will be the sunshine isle of Bornholm, as it has more or less been fully booked for July.

But don’t worry, as there are plenty of other islands to explore, even though we advise you to hurry now that the German tourists have been given the green light to visit from June 15 onwards.

With that in mind, we’ve gathered a list of the key places you should consider visiting this summer.

By Ella Navarro

Møn Most people go to Møn to visit its impressive white chalk cliffs at Møns Klint. But while the views are impressive, and the water just as turquoise as you see it in the pictures, there’s a lot more to enjoy on the island. If you are looking to do some hiking and reconnect with nature, Møn is perfect. Similar to Camino de Santiago in Spain, you’ll find Camønoen, a 175-km hiking trail taking in the three islands of Møn, Bogø and Nyord. The routes are for both experienced and unskilled hikers with magnificent natural landscapes that range from forests and large plantations, to fields populated by Hereford cows and fantastic sandy beaches.

Along the trails, you’ll find plenty of benches, toilets and shops to re-energise after your long walk. A good point to start your journey is at Stege, where you’ll find Møn’s main museum. Here you can get a map of the trails and recommendations from the staff. Stege is a beautiful town with charming restaurants and small shops where you can buy local products such as gin or honey. For a long sandy beach, visit Rytsebæk – it’s ideal for sunbathing and swimming.

Also visit Klintom Havn for a stroll in the harbour and to sample great seafood and ice cream.

ELLA NAVARRO

ELLA NAVARRO

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Ærø Love birds travel to get married on the ‘Wedding Island’ – and for good reason. But even if you are not attending a wedding, it is well worth a visit for its colourful and quaint houses and its peaceful environment.

It looks like something out of a Danish fairy-tale. To get there from Copenhagen you can either drive or take a train and then the ferry to Ærøskøbing Havn – in total, it takes about 3.5 hours. Once on the island explore great beaches such as Søby and Vester Strand, which are ideal if you are travelling with children. For the traditional colourful beachside cabins you have to go to the shores of Eriks Hale, near the town of Marstal, where there is a charming marina. This beach is an isthmus. On one side of the bay, you can enjoy the calm, shallow and warm water, while on the other one you’ll find the refreshing waters of the Baltic Sea. Ærø is certainly best enjoyed by bike. With 150 km of biking trails, the best option to experience the island to the fullest is to rent a bike and explore. To indulge in some local tastes we recommend you stop by Den Gamle Købmandsgaard. They sell local products and serve an unforgettable brunch. Also, try smoked specialties at Ærøskøbing Røgeri and don’t forget to try Ærø’s famous thick pancakes, Løvtens Paa’kar – surely the island’s masterwork!

RELOCATION SUMMER GUIDE 2020

ELLA NAVARRO

Zealand There’s far more to Zealand than the capital of Copenhagen. A short drive away is Camp Adventure. Ideal for all ages, you can visit for the climbing park or the forest tower, or both! Towering above the forest canopy, fully 95 metres above sea level, good views are guaranteed – and a good workout! A 3.2km wooden boardwalk takes you through the forest, up the tower and back. The tower is designed to give visitors a new and exciting way to embrace nature and the natural forests of Denmark. The structure itself is majestic and the views vary according to where you are standing. The Climbing Park offers 10 courses encompassing different levels. You move from tree to tree via obstacles or zip lines. Expect to spend at least four hours if you do both. Our second recommendation is Stevns Klint, a UNESCO World Heritage site thanks to a clay layer in which you can find fossils of animals such as sharks and sea lizards that lived there 66 million years ago. Take the footpath ‘Trampestien’ from Bøgeskov Harbour to Rødvig. This 20 km path stops at all the points you need to see: the beach, the cliffs, the cold war museum and the picturesque lighthouse. The best place to catch a glimpse of the fossils is at the beach in Højerup. Last stop, we recommend Karlstrup Kalkgrav in Køge for a day of picnicking and swimming. Karlstrup Kalkgrav is a limestone quarry formed millions of years ago. It covers around 30 hectares and its lake is about 6 hectares in area. Parts of the lake are 14 metres deep. Enjoy a swim or stroll to appreciate the flora and fauna surroundings.

VISIT DENMARK/NICLAS JESSEN

Lolland The fourth-largest island in Denmark mixes history with nature and long beaches. Less than a two-hour drive from Copenhagen, these are the three areas in Lolland you must visit. Start at Maribo’s Cathedral and admire its lakes by taking a boat tour: here you’ll encounter extraordinary birdlife, meadows and beautiful old manor houses. If you are travelling with children, a good option is to visit Knuthenborg Safari Park where you’ll see Siberian tigers and the largest elephant enclosure in Europe. Next, visit Nakskov and its fjord. The town is historically charming and they have the best cherry wine, as well as the oldest pedestrian streets in Denmark.

Take a tour in the old ‘Post Boast’ through the fjord and visit Albuen for fine sand beaches and an eye-catching lighthouse. Last but not least is the Dodecalith, Denmark’s answer to Stonehenge, where the visit is enhanced by an art project by sculptor Thomas Kadziola.

Take the Glentehøjstien trail starting at Kragenæs Harbour and in 15 minutes you’ll arrive to see the 12 menhirs carved in granite facing inwards in a circle. Each weighs 25-45 tonnes and is 7-9 metres high. Inside the 40-metre circle, there are stones where you can sit and listen to music by composer Wayne Siegel. It is an outstanding piece of art where nature, history and music blend together.

PIXABAY

Samsø Samsø once belonged to the king of Denmark, but he gave it as a present to his mistress in 1678. But with its apples, potatoes and peaceful surroundings, it turned out to be a gift for the entire nation. It is also the home of a lot of legends – did you know, for example, that trolls can be found in the hills of Dansebjerg or St Vorbjerg. Samsø is mostly flat and best enjoyed by bike, offering wide bike paths that take you from Tranebjerg in the middle of the island to Nordby in the north. Look out for the roadside tables filled with strawberries, potatoes and asparagus that you can pick up and pay for with MobilePay. With a 120 km coastline, you’ll find a sandy beach wherever you look. In the north, check out Mårup Østerstrand and in the west lookout for Sælvigbugten.

We recommend you visit Samsø Bær, where they make fantastic jams and schnapps using local products. On Wednesdays, there’s a tour of the premises with tastings. For the best smørrebrød with local potatoes head to Carlo’s Corner. To get to Samsø from Copenhagen take a train to Kalundborg. From there take the ferry to Ballen.

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PIQSELS

OUT OF THE CAGE AND INTO THE WILD: NATURE AND WATER SPORTS IN DENMARK

BY MATHIAS FREUDENTHAL Lockdown’s out, so set yourself free and explore the Danish landscape in its full summer glory Although more than 50 percent of Denmark is comprised of arable land,16 percent consists of forest and heath and 7 percent of wilderness areas such as lakes, bogs and meadows.

Added to that is the marvellous Danish coastline. Extending for 8,750 kilometres, it outstrips Chile and even India!

So there are plenty of opportunities for newcomers to get the most out of their new country even in these socially distanced times; it is just a matter of your personal preference – and choosing the right clothes.

ROWING Rowing clubs are always looking for new members and you don’t have to be an experienced oarsman. If you are a newbie, why not try it out at a special free trial session organised by Denmark’s oldest rowing club, Roforeningen KVIK. You’ll find more information on their website: roforeningen.dk/english. To help you with settling in, other expats in the club provide a special mentoring service to newcomers.

SURFING Denmark isn’t the next Hawaii or Australia, but given its weather conditions, big waves can be found along the west coast of Jutland, especially between Klitmøller and Agger, where you’ll find plenty of would-

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be surfers cutting their teeth ahead of heading off to sunnier climes.

Conversely perhaps, the tendency for strong wind but small waves in Danish waters favours windsurfing.

Kitesurfing is another popular pastime.

Combining aspects of snowboarding, windsurfing, surfing, paragliding, skateboarding and gymnastics, it’s one of the ultimate sports for adrenaline junkies.

Beginners can start by enrolling in a course or taking part in a camp at places like copenhagensurfschool.dk/en , coldhawaiisurfcamp.com and klitmoller. en.westwind.dk SAILING Whether it’s a rowing, sailing or speedboat, a kayak, canoe or pedalo, or even a floating spa, given the proximity of water, you’re never far away from a rental company in this country. But if you want to learn to sail properly, the Royal Danish Yacht Club offers beginner, intermediate and advanced sailing courses in English (learn more at kdy.dk) with the opportunity of earning a Danish sailing licence.

FISHING With its long coastline, and over 5,000 lakes, Denmark has a great selection of places to fish to suit all tastes. Along the seashore, Jutland’s west coast offers the best conditions thanks to its large population of cod, flatfish, and mackerel.

From there, sail a cutter to the Yellow Reef – remember your sea-sickness pills

because it’s going to get rough! – where most of the country’s biggest fish records have been set. Heading freshwater, but staying in Jutland, the Brede Å, Kongeå, Skjernå and Varde Å streams are all recommended for monster trout and salmon. Fyn’s seashore is also highly recommended, particularly for trout, while the Øresund is good for trout and cod – especially during the winter.

Staying in Zealand, the freshwater lakes at Furesø and Esrum are famed for their recordbreaking pike and perch, and Isefjorden is another excellent location for trout.

Join Copenhagen’s network of anglers at fishingcopenhagen.com or check out fishingzealand.dk if you’re ready to wander away from the capital. Head to fiskeristyrelsen.dk/english for more information on acquiring a fishing license.

SPEAR FISHING Speargun hunters don’t use any scuba gear as they rarely leave the surface, surveying the marine wildlife through their masks with a gun that is rubber or air-powered, or a hand-held spear. This tends to make the pastime tricky during the summer as most fish seek out deeper waters due to the heat – remember that it’s illegal to spear fish in freshwater areas – so your best bet is trying it out in the spring or the autumn.

On Zealand, Asnæs is recommended for flatfish, while the north coast is good for mullet, flounder and turbot, as is Sejerø Bay, which also provides good conditions for flatfish and dab.

HUNTING Despite being protected by hunting laws, the vast majority of animals in Denmark are fair game – provided it’s the right season. The difficulty is finding somewhere to do it; you can’t just go out into the wilderness and start shooting.

You will need to get a Danish hunting licence, so your first step should either be joining a club or befriending a club member. On Zealand, roe deer and birds (especially mallards, greylag geese, pheasants, pigeons) are the most popular prey.

Among the best estates are Bielefeld, Giesegård, Bregentved, Gisselfeldt and Svenstrup Gods. But for fallow deer and red deer, head to Jutland. Skagen and the northern part of Djursland are home to some of the biggest populations of the highly-coveted red deer.

For more information, visit https:// eng.mst.dk/nature-water/hunting, eng.

naturstyrelsen.dk/experience-nature/ hunting and en.nordichunters.eu/huntingpermits/denmark.

to embark on some island journeys as well (there are plenty of opportunities), for which Bornholm or Møn would be a great start.

HIKING Though Denmark’s countryside isn’t too hilly, it’s still beautiful, boasting a huge variety of flora and numerous footpaths to follow. Copenhageners’ first choice should be Jægersborg Dyrehave where 2,000plus deer inhabit an 11 sq km area full of ancient oak trees.

MOUNTAIN BIKING There are plenty of off-road tracks in Denmark offering good exercise, fresh air and an adrenalin-inducing challenge. Be warned, though, that some locations forbid mountain biking because the rough wheels can tear the ground up.

You know that part of Denmark, the one stuck between Jutland and Zealand, called Funen? The 165th largest island in the world?

No? Of course not… Well, now’s your chance to explore at least some if it through one of the country’s longest hiking trails (220 km): The Archipelago Trail (visitfyn.com/fyn/ experiences/archipelago-trail). Afterwards, pay a visit to H.C. Andersen’s house in Odense (Denmark’s third-largest city).

Lille Vildmose in the eastern part of Jutland between Randers and Aalborg is also exceptional and the only part of the country where you might encounter wild boar, eagles, cranes, beavers, red deer and elk. Also recommended are the following national parks: Wadden Sea (eng.nationalparkvadehavet.dk), Thy (eng. nationalparkthy.dk) and Mols Bjerge (eng. nationalparkmolsbjerge.dk). Finally, make sure

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While flat Zealand and Funen have limited possibilities restricted to the odd wood and bog, they still have a number of locations where challenging tracks have been laid out. Try the Red Track in Hareskoven, Store Dyrehave in Hillerød and Teglstrup Hegn if you’re near the capital. Other tracks on Zealand include the Blue Track in Himmelev and the White Track in Bidstrup Skovene

by Roskilde. You can also opt for a trip to Funen and bike through Trunderupskoven, Kongebroskoven and Langesøskoven. And, if you do end up visiting the island of Møn, give Klinteskoven a try.

Jutland, with its hillier terrain, is the best option if you want to test yourself. Try Mols Bjerge, Hasle Bakker, Rold Skov, Fussing Lake or the Hammer Hills.

For more options see: singletracker.dk/en/ mtb-trails-in-denmark

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The best place, however, is Jutland, and particularly around Djursland and Hirsholm, which both offer large populations of coal-fish, sea-bass and cod, with the latter also offering superb conditions for mullet. On Funen, Kerteminde and the north shore around Sprogø are excellent for mullet and cod.

OPINION

PURPOSE OF YOUR STAY? PHILOSOPHICAL PXHERE

BY ALEXANDER BRISBANE Last year, 55,982 people had a reason to move to Denmark. Let’s assume the majority were work, asylum, family, study and, for lack of a better term, love. For the rest of us, when faced with “Why Denmark?” we’re usually left with the infinitely witty “The weather”.

After a year and a half of fumbling through my own half-truths and complete lies, I stumbled upon an answer that was as vague and pretentious as the Kierkegaard reference I tried to sneak into the name of this column. Or so it seemed.

Existential migration. Perfect isn’t it? Two of the English lexicon’s most misunderstood and misused words grafted on to one another, creating a Wankenstein’s Monster that this over-compensating arts graduate would be proud to bring twitching into existence, if only into casual conversation. Imagine my disappointment when discovering the term came with some incredibly well-considered, thoughtprovoking and insightful research.

Existential expats Canadian-born, London-based psychologist and psychotherapist Greg Madison interviewed 20 voluntary migrants from 15 countries. They were asked five questions over a 90-minute session: Could you relate the circumstances of your leaving home?; Why do you think you really left home?; When you reflect upon your time since leaving home, what’s it been like for you?; Do you think about returning home?; And what does it feel like to talk about these things?

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Although the questions appear straightforward, Madison discovered the responses consistently reflected themes that could be considered existential (which I will quickly define as an emphasis on the uniqueness of individual human existence in freely making its own selfdefining choices). In even loftier terms, the questions revealed a deep and unexplainable desire to exile oneself from ‘home’ for reasons that will ultimately remain elusive.

In Madison’s words, these existential migrants are “grappling with issues of home and belonging in the world generally”, but the real fun starts when we’re asked to chew on concepts such as “home and not-at-home”, “belonging and never quite belonging”, “the world of mystery and the mundane”, “the freedom and suffocation of potential”, “independence and loneliness” and “yearning and loss”.

More questions than answers And if it all sounds a little ambiguous, don’t worry. Madison readily and happily admits that his initial research may raise more questions than it answers.

Madison takes the 20 stories he collects and combines them into a single, firstperson narrative by drawing from the individual to speak for the whole. His ‘Tale of Existential Migration’ should resonate even if you find yourself here for entirely rational reasons.

It concludes nicely with two thoughts though: “The imperative was to follow

‘potential’ as an end in itself, not as a means to material betterment” and “After all is said, there is also optimism and satisfaction and some pride from having followed the mysterious path of the unknown with courage, concurrent with a niggling thought that it might actually have taken more courage to stay.”

Haunting feeling of home I’m obviously oversimplifying Madison’s hard work and research, but if I have a point (which perhaps I don’t) it would be this: whether you’ve lived in Denmark your entire life, trudged here on a career path, or were dragged here by your heartstrings, that haunting feeling of home, whether you’ve found it or not, may never leave you.

As I descend ever further into cliché, this is my final defence of both Denmark and that ‘foreign feeling’. You’re probably an expatriate yourself, you at times have your grievances with this country as well as your delights, but next time you feel like airing your dirty Danish laundry as only we expats can, there’s a seemingly insignificant finding of Madison’s that I found perhaps his most insightful. I’ll paraphrase it for you.

We all attempt to ‘live’ in two homes at once, our adopted and our native, never achieving ‘home’ in either. But when we assign that term ‘home’, we will invariably assign it to wherever we are currently not instead of where we currently are. *originally published in August 2013

OPINION

WHICH PHASE OF THE EXPAT CURVE ARE YOU IN? you underestimate its effect on your mood. You fail to realise too late that the cold and gloomy weather is casting a dark shadow on your goodnatured person. Thankfully, the frosty demeanour gets shed along with the pile of clothes at the first sight of summer.

Superficiality ... to shock While these examples don’t seem extraordinary in themselves, the realisation that I’m in the phase of ‘superficial adaption’ is a bit unsettling.

Because if I follow the curve through its natural progression, things are apparently going to get worse before they get better.

BY SARITA RAJIV I recently saw an interesting video about something called ‘the expat curve’. Depending on the individual, the cultural differences in their new country and the nature of new experiences, the expat curve can have five or six different phases. You go through high peaks and low troughs in your evolution as an expatriate in any country.

No honeymoon lasts forever As many of us have probably experienced, you typically start off in the ‘honeymoon phase’, in which everything is new and different, but in an exciting kind of way. What follows is the ‘initial culture shock’ phase, when the very differences that first delighted you begin to annoy you.

As it turns out, I’m currently in the third phase of the curve called ‘superficial adaption’.

What this means is I’ve learnt the routines, the simple dos and don’ts, and the easy norms of Danish society by observing Danes and emulating them.

For those of you curious to know if you’ve reached this stage yet, consider the list below. If, like me, you are guilty of some of the following things, you are probably in this phase too.

Planning like clockwork You plan most of your shopping in advance, making trips during the weekdays or in

the first half of your Saturdays and Sundays. You simply don’t expect to find your favourite clothing, shoe or toy store open in the evening on weekends.

On the rare occasion that you do have some last-minute shopping, you know exactly which stores will be open, being able to count them on your fingers.

The reason it’s called the phase of ‘superficial adaptation’ is because sooner or later expats realise that there is a deeper level of values, priorities and ideas that are still too strange to you. What follows is ‘complete culture shock’. Not a very

encouraging outlook. But having got rid of my initial naiveté and high expectations, I’m hoping to handle the next phase better.

Good luck!

What about you? Which phase of the expat curve do you find yourself in right now?

Whichever phase you’re in, may the remainder of 2020 take you to a better one.

Hopefully a bigger number of us will move past the stages of ‘superficial adaptation’ and ‘complete culture shock’ to the ‘adjustment and integration’ stage, where we can better understand the Danish perspective while respectfully agreeing to disagree and enjoying the differences while we’re at it.

See you on the other side soon. *originally published in December 2013

Hogging the hygge Hyggelig is the most often used adjective in your vocabulary. The higher the hyggelig factor attached to something, the better it is and you know you can’t go wrong with “Hvor er det hyggeligt” (how wonderfully cosy it is) when offering praise. You use it for objects, events and places, stopping just shy of using it for people and pets.

Bad weather denial You state quite matter-offactly that there is no such thing as bad weather, just wrong clothing. In fact, the appropriateness of your coats and jackets assumes more importance than what you wear underneath it. You have jackets and coats that go by ‘windy and freezing’, ‘cold and wet’, ‘raining but pleasant’ and ‘just a touch of cool’, to name a few.

Barometer adjustment As you believe that there is no such thing as bad weather,

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OPINION

BY STEPHANIE BRICKMAN I’ve got used to living in Denmark – it’s been a long time since I accidentally bought yoghurt instead of milk. But until recently there was one major thing I had not been able to face, and that was driving.

Balletic bumper racing Cars are expensive here; there’s nowhere to park and cycling is so much easier. But still there are times in family life when a car helps. So we signed up for a share car scheme called Let’s Go that has a lovely little red car at the end of our street.

I have had a driving licence since my teens, but my confidence has never been great.

Perhaps it’s because it took me three attempts to pass my driving test and I failed the first two for going through red lights. Or perhaps because I have had a lot of little bumps, all at very low speed, of which some have been positively balletic.

Who you gonna call?

So you can understand the trepidation I feel sitting in a VW Mini ahead of driving ON THE WRONG SIDE OF THE ROAD for the first time. Childhood memories of

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failing a cycling proficiency test at the age of eight come romping back to taunt my troubled mind.

I feel a need for a reassuring presence like Chummy, that nice nurse played

by Miranda Hart in the 1950s-set BBC drama ‘Call the Midwife’. Chummy is jolly hockey-sticks posh, delivers triplets in thunderstorms and never panics. I shut my eyes, imagine the theme tune and instantly Chummy is there with me in full uniform.

“You’re doing awfully well old fruit,” she says. “Now, a steady turn of the ignition key … there you go … into jolly old first gear … and pant for the handbrake.”

Like parallel parking?

After a month or so I realise that the speed limit is generally 50 (30 is for miles not kilometres, who knew …) and things speed up, my confidence grows and Chummy doesn’t need to visit as much.

Parking proves interesting. There are things you don’t notice until you have access to a car. The signs saying ‘2-timer

parkering’ mean it’s a two-hour limit, not where you cheat on your partner.

And you’ll get a hefty fine if you forget to set your P-skive, which is nothing to do with children skiving off school on a pretext of fraudulent trips to the loo, but the little clock on the windscreen that shows when you arrived.

A power trip One day I book an electric car when the mini is not available. I cycle over to its location, chain up my bike and jump in. I reverse out no problem, but can’t work out how to go forward, and when I eventually do, the car lurches and jerks. A grumpy old man goes past on his bicycle and yells in Danish: “Have you got a driving licence?”

“Yes, but this is like driving a hairdryer,” I yell back. He gives me a really strange look and it’s then I realise I’m still wearing my fluorescent bike helmet, rally-driver style. I pull away silently at low speed.

“Bally marvellous!” says Chummy. *originally published in December 2016

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