Summer in Denmark Supplement by The Copenhagen Post

Summer in Denmark

Vejle

odense

copenhagen

city

aarhus

The World’s Largest Hotel Chain Best Western International, the world’s largest hotel chain, was established back in 1946 in the US. Some of the chain’s first overseas hotels, the Best Western Nyborg Strand and Best Western Hotel Eyde Nogle, opened in Denmark as early as 1983. This means that that the Best Western has been present in Denmark for over 25 years. The focus of the Best Western brand is to deliver higher sales to independently owned hotels which then allows it to compete on an equal footing with other national and international hotel brands, chains and capital chains. Hotel Manager and Country Manager Peter Laigaard Jensen is head of the hotel chain in Denmark. Mr Jensen has a lot of experience in the hotel industry, both nationally and internationally. He has also held a number of appointments at executive and director level in Best Western hotels both at home and abroad. In addition Mr Laigaard Jensen has supplemented his professional career with a variety of vocational courses; for example, he gained an MBA in international management and vocational training at Cornell University. Unique business model The Best Western hotel chain is a ‘nonprofit’ membership organisation. There are no debt payments to be made, and no investors who require big returns on their capital investments. The entire profit returns to the individual hotel members, and this explains why Best Western is a particularly attractive option for individually owned and independent hotels. The hotel chain’s primary business focus is on generating turnover by using advanced electronic distribution channels, and by providing strategic advice regarding marketing and branding as well as quality assurance to Danish Best Western hotels. All Danish Best Western hotels comply with the chain’s highest global quality standards, which are used at over 4,000 Best Western hotels in over 80 countries worldwide. Each Best Western hotel, wherever it happens to be in the world, must fulfil certain criteria to maintain the minimum level of quality, ensuring that guests can enjoy a specific range of services and a clean and well-maintained facility. However, the hotel’s design, layout and interior decoration is decided solely by the individual hotel owner and manager. Our belief is that hotels that are clearly distinguished from each other have a clear market advantage and offer a ’unique selling point’ to customers. A further advantage is that guests staying at individual Best Western hotel often have the opportunity to meet and get to know their hosts. Variation and style Each Best Western hotel offers guests a unique experience and atmosphere. In Denmark guests can enjoy everything from the beautifully located Best Western Hotel Ny Skovlund in the countryside near Holstebro to smart city hotels such as the Best Western Mercur Hotel in downtown Copenhagen. This variation in style is even more obvious when one compares hotels as different as the Best Western Golf Hotel Viborg in Viborg and the Best Western Hotel City in Copenhagen. Whereas the Best Western Golf Hotel Viborg is an efficient and modern conference hotel with all the top facilities that entails, the Best Western Hotel City is a comfortable centrally-located bed & breakfast hotel which offers a wonderful morning meal and cosy atmosphere. One thing these hotels do have in common however is the fact that whether they are in Denmark, Asia, Europe or the US, all these Best Western hotels are individually owned and run and often by different generations

of the same family. This means that guests can benefit from a higher level of personal service during their stay. Focus for 2010 During this difficult time for the hotel industry, Best Western International in Denmark is constantly focused on what is important for the Best Western hotels. The focus of the brand in 2010 is to work closely with their hotels on a number of key strategic areas. In keeping with the global strategy of Best Western International, the objective is to maintain the increasing sense of loyalty among guests of the hotel chain who decide to stay at Best Western hotels across the world. The Western brand maximises the potential of Best Western hotels by creating profits and repeat business by returning guests, and by winning a bigger market share from competitors at the same time. One of the best tools on offer to Best Western hotels is the loyalty programme, Best Western Rewards. This programme means that guest can quickly earn points which they can then use to book free overnight stays throughout the world. Or guests can buy a Travel Card, which can also be used all over the globe. In addition, Best Western International has created strategic partnerships with most of the largest international airlines such as SAS, Lufthansa, Delta, Continental, Air Berlin, Asiana, Air France and KLM to name just a few.

“ More than 9 million members have joined the Best Western Reward programme and just as many millions are members of other loyalty partnership clubs – this creates a synergy effect for Best Western hotels.

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More than 9 million members have joined the Best Western Reward programme and just as many millions are members of other loyalty partnership clubs – this creates a synergy effect for Best Western hotels. These travellers look for a Best Western hotel when they are on trips in order to secure as many points as possible which they can then use in hotels, for flights or to take advantage of many other offers. This loyalty programme is being constantly expanded and developed. The Best Western Reward loyalty programme has grown by over 30 per cent over the last two years, and the turnover from these members has increased correspondingly by 30 per cent during the same period. Feedback from guests Another very important tool which provides a strategic advantage to individual hotel owners and managers is Medallia, an internet-based application utilised by Best Western to stimulate feedback from guests. The Best Western brand is working hard to ensure that all Best Western hotels actively make use of this unique tool so that all feedback from guests both during and after their stay at Best Western hotels is registered and replied to. The goal of the hotel chain is to achieve a constant ongoing dialogue with guests at Best Western hotels, so that the brand can ensure the highest level of hospitality and service. Above all else we aim to fulfil guests’ expectations and demands. By using the powerful Medallia guest feedback system

Best Western Nyborg Strand and Best Western Hotel Eyde were first established in Denmark back in 1983.

and www.bwfeedback.com, Best Western hotels will be motivated to analyse and gain know-how and experience as well as reply to all feedback from guests, whether this is positive or not. We believe that this is something guests deserve. The system is unique and offers hotel owners and managers valuable and extremely practical information about customers’ demands and wishes, allowing them to identify and solve problems. Best Practice The third important tool encompasses our entire effort to optimise hotel revenue management and turnover. The strategic advice which the brand offers member hotels allows hotels to gain valuable insights into revenue management and this is reflected directly in the hotel’s bottom line. The objective is to make use of the accumulated options in Best Practice and knowledge sharing within this area in order to maximise hotel turnover via the different distribution channels. The results have been particularly encouraging. The traffic generated by Best Western channels is positive and growing compared to last year, and also compared to the market in general which has experienced negative sales and marketing trends. Best Western has experienced a 20 per cent increase in traffic in Denmark in its distribution channels in 2009 compared to figures from the previous year. This is an incredible performance when one considers the slump in air traffic and other sectors of the travel business. Our experience tells us that the strength and presence of the Best Western brand in Denmark creates direct sales for our member hotels and helps them grow and compete under highly challenging market conditions. Globale partnerships Best Western´s global partnerships are also playing a role in creating growth in Denmark. A good example of this is our partnership with the American Automobile Association which has a massive 55 million members, all of whom can enjoy using Best Western hotels at special rates. Visits by these members to Denmark have increased

noticeably and the number of nights they are spending at Danish Best Western hotels has increased by 15 per cent. Considering the current financial downturn this is an incredible growth rate. The Best Western brand gives individual hotel owners and managers the chance to retain their uniqueness while at the same time offering all the advantages and strengths of belonging to a global brand. Another plus is that Best Western hotels are given access to booking and distribution channels such as the internet website, www.bestwestern.com , GDS and many mainline reservation offices across the globe in the US, Europe and Asia (Tokyo, Beijing and Manila). These services along with a consistent quality assurance programme, additional sales from our Best Western Rewards loyalty programme and our Travel Card programme provide hotels with the tools they need to successfully compete in the market. Part of a global brand The Best Western chain is a non-profit organisation where membership is inexpensive and entrance barriers low. During the remainder of 2010, the Best Western brand in Denmark will work hard to increase its presence and the quality of its portfolio of hotels. Best Western International is constantly on the lookout for quality hotel businesses which are interested in joining a global brand. The success of the Best Western brand is based on a range of core competencies and strategic intervention areas, and the popularity of the brand can be measured by the high level of satisfaction shown by member hotels, evinced by the fact that this hotel brand encompasses 4,000 hotels across the globe making it the largest hotel chain in the world.

e know the feeling and we forgive you. You’ve been in Denmark over two years, and you understandably still think this country starts and ends in Copenhagen. We love this city

too – it’s got most things a modern city dweller could ask for. But to say ‘everything’ would be a great disservice to the other Danish cities – namely for the purpose of this supplement, Vejle, Aarhus and Odense - and inside these pages, we hope you’ll have more than a few reasons to explore them a little bit more. And don’t forget the countryside. While Denmark isn’t particularly big – you can travel anywhere by train in less than five hours – it is enormous when you compare it to its modest 5.5 million population, and this means there are lots of sparsely populated regions - perfect for that relaxing, peaceful holiday away from the hustle and the bustle of the cities, but yet in easy access from them. Our journey around the country starts with Vejle (pages 4-7) in eastern Jutland, where the violins were out in force last year to commemorate the death of the whale that made the nation blubber. The city is picturesque and offers easy access to attractions, like the Jelling Stones and Legoland, and breathtaking nature, from its Ice Age hills to the convergence of the Vejle and Grejs river valleys. And then there’s Odense (pages 8-11) on the island of Funen: the birthplace of the most famous Dane of them all, Hans Christian Andersen. Visit the house in which he grew up in and then the museum dedicated to his life. And then elsewhere discover a vibrant and diverse city, brimful with outdoor activities, for both adults and kids. The capital you probably know, but have you ever truly explored the area around Nyhavn (pages 14-17) in the very heart of the city. History echoes from every pore of this harbour, where thousands congregate to eat, drink, make merry and enjoy the very special atmosphere. Almost everything worth going to in Copenhagen is in easy access, from the main shopping street Strøget to Christiania. And last but not least, travel north to Denmark’s second biggest city, Aarhus (pages 18-21), which is a lively, likeable port on the eastern coast of Jutland. Enjoy hygge in the city’s historicallyrich Latin Quarter under the gaze of the 500-year-old cathedral, and then embrace its modernity, in buildings like the rainbow-coloured Aros art museum. Or leave the city limits for attractions like the Ebeltoft Safari Park and Gammel Estrup Manor House. There’s a wealth of summertime travelling opportunities out there, right on your doorstep (see page 22 for transport details and pages 12-13 for a handy map), and it all starts here. POST BOX President and Publisher - Ejvind Sandal Chief Executive - Jesper Nymark Editor - Ben Hamilton Layout & Design - Lyndsay Jensen Sales and Marketing Director - Hans Hermansen Sales and Advertising - Mark Millen, Lyndsay Jensen, James Honeyman Wooler If you would like to contact us or leave a comment: info@cphpost.dk This supplement is published by The Copenhagen Post, please refer to our disclaimer on page 2 of the newspaper.

Vejle, Jutland

Ancient stones and whale bones By Alexis Kunsak

With half the population of Denmark concentrated around one city far to the east of the country, it comes as no surprise that some differences have developed between the areas of Jutland and Greater Copenhagen. However, Vejle is no backwater small town in the provinces. It offers an escape from city life without quite going back to the farm and while there are quite a few cows, they’re not in the centre of town!

owever, one myth that did seem to prove itself to be true again and again is that the people are more friendly in Jutland. They smile on the street and to customers from behind their shop counters, and they seem to genuinely wish you a pleasant rest of the day. This is a positive backdrop for exploring this area of Jutland, which is located within easy driving distance of several of Denmark’s star attractions including Legoland and Jelling. The whole area is steeped in history, with records of Vejle going back to 1256. It was well-known to the Vikings as a marshy area that was challenging to cross. Both the Vejle and Grejs rivers and their valleys converge here, surrounded by small hills carved out in the Ice Age.

Royal Jelling musuem Gormsgade 23, 7300 Jelling; open June-Aug: Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00, Sep-May: Tue-Sun: 12:00-16:00; Free Adm; 7587 2350; www.kongernesjelling.dk Jelling, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is home to two historically significant stones carved with runes from the Viking days: one by Gorm and the other by his son Harald Bluetooth, the first King of Denmark. Royal Jelling is a museum near the churchyard, which offers more background information about the runes and Viking times in Jelling and the rest of Denmark. The town is only 12km from Vejle, and in July a historic steam engine travels to Jelling from Vejle Station, taking passengers in style.

Legoland Billund Nordmarksvej, 7190 Billund; open April-October, times vary but generally open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00; Tickets: under-13s 249kr, over-13s 279kr, under-threes free adm; 7533 1333, info@LEGOLAND.dk; www.legoland.dk This is a no-brainer if your kids like Lego, and it’s also good to note that they don’t charge adults double the price to watch their little ones have a good time. While 50 rides run non-stop, check out the website for details of special events. The amusement park even has its own train station and accommodation.

Vejle Tourist Information centre Banegårdspladsen 6, 7100 Vejle; Open May-Sept Mon-Fri 10:00-17:00, Sat 10:00-13:00; 7681 1925; www.visitvejle.com This is the place to go to find out about Vejle’s hiking and cycling opportunities. Located directly across from the entrance to the main station, most of its information is available in English. Find out about the bike paths that take you into the green hilly valleys, the large fjord that stretches out from Vejle, the beaches located to the north, and the roads leading south that wind through the hills of the Munkebjerg forest.

Vejle Kunstmuseum Flegborg 16-18, 7100 Vejle; Open Tue-Sun 11.00-17.00; Tickets: 55kr, under-18s free; 7572 3199; www.vejlekunstmuseum.dk Vejle had its media moment in August 2010 when a 24-ton finn whale swam into the fjord and died, leaving a mass of scientific data that is usually impossible to collect. The Vejle Kunst Museum houses the bones of the creature and is running a current exhibition of prints made from animal tracks and the skin of this 140-year-old whale. Their permanent collection consists of mostly Scandinavian painters, but also showcases a series of photographs taken of the Faroe Islands by artists and researchers over the past several decades. The museum also focuses on setting up objects inside the exhibitions for children to touch and experience something more tactile and attention-grabbing.

Hold the front room! Staying here is a scoop

By Alexis Kunsak

BEST WESTERN ToRVEhallerne Kirketorvet 10-16, 7100 Vejle; 7942 7900; www.torvehallerne.dk

ocated less than three-minutes from the main train station in Vejle, the Best Western Torvehallerne has an unbeatable location in town. With it’s main entrance off the main road the rooms are sheltered from the traffic by the cobbled square of St. Nicolai church and the other side of the building has been saved for conference rooms, other meeting spaces, and the entrance to the parking garage.

But the hotel did not come by this space easily. Torvehallerne means ‘the market hall’ and this was its primary function up until 1909 when it became the home of the local newspaper, the Vejle Amts Folkeblad. Bit by bit, starting with the printing presses, the paper relocated – look out for a copy in the hotel’s downstairs pool room – and 1989 saw its last official day at Torvehallerne. As a reminder of the past the carpets in the hotel are printed with old editions of the paper. Beyond those details the hotel has been completely overhauled. This is obvious upon leaving the reception area and walking out into the restaurant and bar, where a towering glass ceiling brings natural light into the centre of the hotel. The adaptation of the existing structure can be confusing initially, in so far finding the correct elevator or staircase, but the staff give clear directions and are used to helping first-time guests. The restaurant includes a stage, where concerts are regularly held attracting locals who are also drawn to the restaurant, which offers a range of traditional Danish and international dishes with an emphasis on seafood and steak. Breakfast is held in the same glass hall, and consists of everything expected of a four-star hotel, plus real maple syrup for the pancakes. Many of the rooms are situated around an outside courtyard, so that the hallways on the floors are lit by the sun. The electricity in the spacious and simply furnished rooms is controlled by inserting the key card in a slot next to the door, which has helped win the hotel its environmentally-friendly status. The basic premise is to make the guest feel as though they have entered a completely new space, untouched by another human being. They are a home away from home but even better, with anonymity and a spacious bathtub.

BEST WESTERN TORVEHALLERNE**** Best Western ToRVEhallerne is the ideal place to stay with many possibilites. The beautiful 4**** hotel is located in the centre of Vejle, near the sea, close to the nature, Legoland and the station. Best Western ToRVEhallerne offers modern rooms, brassiere, cafe, bar, lounge and free internet. BEST WESTERN TORVEHALLERNE Kirketorvet 10-16 • 7100 Vejle, Denmark Tel +45 79427900 • Fax +45 7942 7901 info@torvellerne.dk • www.torvehallerne.dk

SUMMER EVENTS IN VEJLE WHAT ’S ON? Vejle Songwriter Festival 2011, May 19-June 1 Jelling Music Festival, May 27-29 Rolls Royce rally, June 3 Denmark’s fastest car, June 3-6 Viking Market in Jelling, July 2-3 Knights Camp, July 6-8 Munkebjergskoven Hill Climb, August 14 Jazz in Tørskind, August 13

Things to do Vejle, Jutland

Vejle is not a big city, but it has a running programme of events and activities for travellers, whether they are families, couples or business people on the road. Bryggen Søndertorv 2; Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19.00, Sat 10:00-16.00, First Sun of the month: 10:00-16:00; 7010 5560; www.bryggen.com The pedestrian street in Vejle is a 900-metre walk lined with shops, and bordered by two indoor malls, one at each end. Byggen is the newest, with glass walls and several levels, as well as outdoor seating next to a canal that runs through the city to the harbour. Many of the shops are similar to the rest of the country, although it does have an unusually large number of specialty food stores.

Spinderihallerne Spinderigade 11E; Open Mon-Sun 11:30-17:00; 7681 1850; www.spinderihallerne.dk This large building used to house a spinning mill, before it was turned into a cultural centre for Vejle. It’s the home of a theatre group, the Vejle Museum and its current exhibition on vintage motorcycles and their enthusiasts, a children’s theatre, and a boxing club called Wendala.

Økolariet Dæmningen 11; 7100 Vejle; Free; Open March-Nov: Mon-Thu & Sat-Sun 11.00-16.00; 7681 2060; www. okolariet.dk The Økolariet is a science centre especially for kids, with activities about nature, the environment, new inventions and how the world works. Exhibitions focus on different natural areas like forests and oceans, problems such as rubbish and how electricity is made.

Vejle Vindmølle Søndermarksvej 1; Free Adm; 7681 3100; www.randboldal-museet.dk On top of a hill south of the city is a squat, round windmill that has become a symbol of Vejle since it was built in the 1890s. Although not old compared to the Vikings, for a windmill it is a long life, and the mill functioned according to its original purpose until 1960. In 2011 the mill is closed inside for renovations, but will reopen next year.

Cafe Tant Grøn Orla Lehmannsgade 3 C; 7100 Vejle; Open Mon-Fri 10:00-17:00; 7572 0092 Finding a good sandwich place that will serve you a fresh lunch to go is not easy in a new town. Here the range of coffee available, and the way my sandwich came wrapped in wax paper and tied with a ribbon was thrilling. I even got a big smile from the woman who made the sandwich when I decided to get a chocolate muffin as well.

Cafeen Den Gamle Arrest Caféen Vejle; Klostergade 1; Open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-21:00; 7582 9300; www.cafeen.nu Very close to the hotel is a cafe and dinner place that seems popular for both locals, tourists and anyone who cannot escape their sun-soaked terrace. Even though the cafe inhabits part of the town hall that used to be a jail, the atmosphere is warm and welcoming, with many lingering over a long meal. The menu includes most classic salads, pasta dishes and beef or pork mains, with some extras like chilli con carne at reasonable prices.

Restaurant Neptun Bådkajen 10-12; Open daily 11:00-22:00; 7572 3779; www.restaurant-neptun.dk Neptune is the god of the sea, and thus Restaurant Neptun is not only a sailing club but also a fish restaurant, serving food described as coming with a proud tradition. After the inner, more industrial harbour, there is an outer harbour for private boats, a new apartment complex built in a very distinctive wave shape, and two competing fish restaurants that both look excellent. Neptun has a better view from its back porch, giving it maybe a slight edge over its competitors.

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Places to see Vejle, Jutland

Parks and gardens in the Vejle region

Woodlands and plantations in the Vejle region

The parks and gardens of the Vejle region are lush sanctuaries of beauty and tranquillity – and the perfect place for family outings. The manicured town parks allow you to picnic and provide a world of inspiration for your own garden at home. And the grand manor estates offer scenic backdrops to rides through the countryside.

The woodlands of Vejle are places of outstanding natural beauty. Experience the cliffy woodlands of the southern coastline and the splendour of the changing seasons in the Dyrehaven deer park or moorlands and rare inland sand dunes.

City parks: Byparken, , 7100 Vejle In the centre of Vejle between the Musikteatret stage and the municipal administration offices, you’ll find Vejle’s town park - Byparken - the lungs of Vejle city. The park was designed as a combination of urban and natural settings. The stream surrounding the city runs through the park and several different trees, bushes, herbs and flowers embellish the park, which makes it green and living from early spring to late autumn. Hotel Scandic Jacob Gade with its ground floor café is next-door neighbour to the city park. From the café’s terrace, you can enjoy a view over the magnificent city park and the large fountain that decorates the park. On the fringes of the park, you’ll find a small playground. Throughout the summer, different cultural events take place in the park. Mølholmsdammen og Tyrelodspynten, , 7100 Vejle Mølholmsdammen (Mølholm pond) and Tyrelodspynten (Tyrelod point) are both situated in the scenic Sønderskov forest between Mølholm and Søndermarken. Access to the parks from Fredericiavej, Jagtvej and Sdr. Villavej, respectively. Mølholmsdammen and Tyrelodspynten are connected via stairs going up the hill through the Sønderskoven forest. From Tyrelodspynten, you’ll find the most amazing view of Vejle, particularly in the spring. At Mølholmsdammen, the children can play in the small maze, on the playground or feed the ducks. Near the stream, you will find benches. Tirsbæk Strandvej 2, 7100 Vejle - Du skal udfylde enten vejnavn eller sted The beautiful park - Skyttehushaven - is situated on the north-side of Vejle Bay, bordering up to the Nørreskoven forest with only a few kilometers to Vejle city. In 1914, the area was opened up to the public, as Vejle Municipality bought the garden. Before that time, Vejle Riffle Guild frequented the garden. In 1859, the riffle guild built a shooting range and later that same year the garden’s first building followed. Since then, a dancing pavilion was built in 1868 and in 1881, a music pavilion saw the light of day. The large, well-trimmed lawn is surrounded by trees and bushes and from early spring to late autumn, the garden is mantled in a true lavishness of flowers. In the early spring, you will find an abundance of daffodils. In late May and early June, the many rhododendrons take over, while the roses bloom at the end of June and last till the autumn. An old dead tree full of rambling roses is used by guests as a “money tree”, which means that they put coins into cracks and chinks of the tree. The garden stage is the venue for several concerts throughout the summer and on the Danish Constitution Day June 5 and Midsummer Day June 24, the garden is the home of lots of festiveness. The riffle guilds still host shooting events in the garden. The garden is also the home of several playgrounds, an aviary and nest boxes. Along the bay, you will find benches. Today, Restaurant Skyttehuset is domiciled in the actual building called “Skyttehuset”.

Haraldskær Forest - Haraldskær, , 7100 Vejle Haraldskær Forst is situated west of Vejle. The forest is richly varied with old and new forest, deciduous and coniferous forest, hills, bogs and waterholes, dense stand and open spaces, which allow you to enjoy a magnificent view of the valley of Vejle Ådal. The woods include several forests, each with their individual characteristics, e.g.: Helligkilde Forest, which is an overgrown spring bog full of old birch trees. One of the legends tells that a blind man regained his sight after having washed himself in a spring in the forest. In Lilleskoven, which has been laid out as untouched area, the otter has been able to settle down and live in piece. Nørre Plantage forest is a humid, bushy area, which is highly appreciated by the nightingale. Vejle River provides grounds for a richly varied birdlife. Snipes and ducks dominate the area, but also heron, common buzzard and kite are often spotted and the stork comes to visit every summer. The woods are also the home of deer and one of Denmark’s largest populations of badgers. The ruin of Kvak Mill takes us back to the times, when several watermills were found along the river. Close to Kvak Mill, a primitive camp site has been established. The Bindeballe trail - Bindeballestien - follows the old Vandelbane railway track from Vejle Ådal to Bindeballe at the old army Road Hærvejen. In the Queens bog “Dronningens Mose”, a female body from the iron-ages was found during peatdigging. The initial assumption was that the body was the lost Queen Gunhild from the Viking-ages. However, the Danish National Museum found that the woman was an ordinary female from year 490 B.C. Maybe she committed an offence of some kind, as she was found executed and tied down with wooden hooks in the bottom of the bog. Queen Gunhild lies in Saint Nicolai Kirke in Vejle. Haraldskær Manor was mentioned the fist time in 1434. The current main building is from 1536. Today, the place is run as conference centre and hotel. Munkebjergskoven Forest - Munkebjergskoven, Børkop, 7100 Vejle - Du skal udfylde enten vejnavn eller sted The steep hills of Munkebjergskoven Forest stretch along the south side of Vejle Bay. The very rolling trip along the trails of the forest is awarded with vigorous vegetation and beautiful vantage points. In clear weather, Ejer Bavnehøj appears to the north. The beech usually blooms right here in Munkebjergskoven Forest as the first place in Denmark. The forest is also the home of the old protected yew tree. The dormouse is only found in very few forest areas in Jutland and Munkebjergskoven Forest is one of them. The black woodpecker is known by its characteristic voice that echoes through the forest. ”The Forest Lake”, ”Lake of the Munks”,”Eye of the Monk”; the lake has had several names through the years. The lake was dammed up in 1885 and carps and water-lily were put out in the lake. Every year, the sea trout spawns in the stream of Ibækken. As a part of the forest, you will find Vejle Golf Club’s courses, which form artificial, green clearings. From the terrace of the four-star Munkebjerg Hotel, you can enjoy the magnificent nature. In 1933, the tenant of the former Munkebjerg Badehotel, installed the famous rolling stairway to Munkebjerg. Today, the 200 feet long stairway has been replaced by an ordinary wooden stairway. At Ibæk Beach, you will find a kiosk, a bonfire and a simple camp ground. Story and pictures courtesy of Visit Denmark

odense, fyn

In the land of Hans Christian Andersen By Brandy Lebetsamer & Tom Stratton

To the unacquainted, namely anyone not from the Scandinavian region, the word Odense probably doesn’t stir up any rousing interest. Yet when you discover that the name comes from Odins Vé, meaning Odin’s shrine (yes, from Norse mythos), suddenly it becomes super cool and attention grabbing. And we believe that sentiment sums up this picturesque city quite nicely.

ne of the oldest cities in Denmark, Odense has the tourism appeal of Copenhagen, with a varying collection of cultural attractions and also world-class restaurants and shopping. At the same time, it also retains the relaxed charm of a sleepy country town, which might be why so many people enjoy a nice weekend escape to visit this city. Travelling to Odense is a 90-minute train ride from Copenhagen Station and tickets via DSB Orange (dsb.dk) are inexpensive, making impulsive trips an easy decision. On our impromptu outing, we found the journey there gave us just enough time to plan our activities because before we knew it, we were exploring the city.

From the moment you arrive in Odense, it becomes clear that one unavoidable icon celebrated throughout the city is Hans Christian Andersen. Which makes sense, as he was born and raised in Odense, so it should be no surprise that a visit to his museum is highly recommended. Located at Bangs Boder 29, admission is only 60kr per person and free for children. We found the museum so interesting we decided to also visit his childhood home, just a short walk away at Munkemøllestræde 3–5. Calling this house modest, where HC Andersen spent his early years with his parents and many siblings, would be an understatement, and a visit there is worth it for the perspective and increased admiration for his aptitude. Admission is only 25kr per person and free for children. About 4km from the city centre lies The Funen Village, an open air museum preserving more than two dozen buildings built as far back as the 18th century. Getting there is as easy as using one of the public bikes supplied by the city and in less than 10 minutes you’ll find yourself riding through a beautiful forest, with the village nestled in the heart of the large park area. Amidst all the history and apparent preservation, we were pleasantly surprised to find a remarkable collection of contemporary art at the Fyn Kunstmuseum at Jernbanegade 13. Also easy to get to by foot from anywhere in the city centre area, the museum hosts some notable artists. A big surprise was to see original artworks from Yoshitomo Nara and Takashi Murakami, easily two of today’s most prolific artists. In fact Murakami was noted as one of Time magazine’s ‘100 Most Influential People’. Admission is 49kr per person and free for children. This cross section of old and new really makes the city interesting and fun to explore. On our train ride home we were already planning our return visit.

Be treated like one of the family By Brandy Lebetsamer & Tom Stratton BEST WESTERN Hotel Knudsens Gaard Hunderupgade 2, 5230 Odense; 6311 4311, info@knudsensgaard.dk; www.knudsensgaard.dk

hen approaching the Best Western Hotel Knudsens Gaard, one might dismiss it as well … a Best Western. You see, in the US, Best Western hotels are best categorised as affordable, stay and get out, types of lodging. Not much character to the rooms, high probability that any restaurant that adjoins the hotel is mediocre and generally frequented by business travellers who frankly aren’t looking for the added amenities of a typical four-star hotel. Yet, when you pull into the driveway and enter the courtyard leading to the entrance of the hotel, any preconceived

notion of what a Best Western is, is suddenly redefined. The hotel is just outside the central area of Odense, an easy bike ride or if you have heavy luggage, an even quicker bus ride – just jump on the 21 or 22 toward Højby, get off at stop Munkerisvej/Hjallesevej. Either way it shouldn’t take more than ten minutes before you find yourself in the cozy confines of the Best Western Hotel Knudsens Gaard. Originally the home of the Knudsen family, the property was home to one of the longest standing farms on Fyn and the last to finally sell, ultimately becoming what it is today. But while the ownership may have changed hands – the current owners Sinne and Steen Sørensen, who also own the famous Hotel Hesselet in Nyborg, took it over in 1987 - the sense of family still runs very deep. Just about everyone we met had worked at the hotel for many years, some upwards of 30, and it was evident that they want their guest to feel as at home as they do. Our room was spacious, clean, quiet and felt quaint and bright. There was a large bathroom with a full bathtub and separate shower - not exactly common in hotels in Denmark, let alone Europe. And with all of the surprising creature comforts, our expectations for the hotel restaurant suddenly climbed. Needless to say, the hotel restaurant might have been the most memorable experiences during our stay. The kitchen has some serious precedence, with a chef who’s been running the kitchen for 35 years and a sous chef who has been maintaining the high standards for more than 30 years. The menu changes daily, taking advantage of seasonal ingredients, and the food is matched quite comparably to their hand-selected wines. We indulged their dinner tasting menu, which included a dish with two types of local shrimp, and in the morning their breakfast buffet. Both meals were delicious, the dinner being quite memorable, which is a feat for any hotel restaurant.

BEST WESTERN HOTEL KNUDSENS GAARD**** Best Western Hotel Knudsens Gaard is a 4-star hotel with a rare combination of peace and modern comfort - studwork and paving stones - style and elegance. Only 3.5 km from highway exit 50 and inside walking distance to inner Odense. Own parking lot - either in the courtyard or in our securely locked parking basement. BEST WESTERN HOTEL KNUDSENS GAARD Hunderupgade 2 • 5230 Odense M, Denmark Tel +45 6311 4311 • Fax +45 6311 4301 info@knudsensgaard.dk • www.knudsensgaard.dk

SUMMER EVENTS IN ODENSE WHAT ’S ON? International Carl Nielsen Organ Competition & Festival, May 31-June 9 Odense Harbour Culture Festival, May 27-29 Free concerts in Kongens Have, every Thursday from July 7 International Odense Film Festival, Aug 22-27 Odense Flower Festival, Aug 17-20 Summer Dance 2011, June 2-Aug 30, every Tue, Thu & Fri English Rock, May 28 Odense Theatre Festival, June 2-5

Attractions Odense, Fyn

Hop on a bike and explore the streets, shops and restaurants of Odense Biking around Outside the comfortable nook the Hotel Knudsens Gaard sits in is the equally welcoming city of Odense. Having our bikes, we were able to get around to see everything we had on our list. Even if you have a car to get you around, we’d recommend renting a bike from the hotel to explore the city. Whether going to the Odense Zoo or into the heart of to the city, the convenience to ride throughout the area is really motivating and allows you to truly appreciate the beautiful surroundings. It may also help you manage any retail therapy, because when you get to town you’ll be tempted with plenty of potential shopping opportunities.

Shop till you drop Rosengårdcentret is a sizeable shopping centre by Copenhagen standards, let alone Odense. In fact, it’s the largest shopping centre in Denmark. Home to more than 140 shops, it is definitely the most convenient place to find gifts to spoil yourself or those you love.

Fashionable boutiques Personally, we preferred the area in and around the pedestrian street of Vestergade. Here we discovered all kinds of fashionable boutiques and designer clothing stores, which any avid shopper will welcome - as well as shops with goods from local designers, such as the jeweller C. Antonsen, which yields some wonderful insights into the Odense crafts scene.

A great Mexican Speaking of local, we were impressed to find a great Mexican restaurant, El Torito, which made us feel like we were back home in Los Angeles. You see, although it seems like Danes appreciate Mexican food, finding a notable restaurant has been challenging. It seems many believe the food is 90 percent beans and rice, which is a sad misconception. And while we only tried two of their dishes, we will say El Torito is doing its part to help Danes understand great, flavoursome Mexican food. Small touches like importing native spices and having that nice wedge of lime with a Corona are all present to help transport you to another part of the world. Which brings us back to the Best Western Hotel Knudsens Gaard. With their genuine and sincere personal service, they provide relaxed service with style, something important to any traveller, near or far.

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Places to see Odense, Fyn

Grazing area The grass outside the wood will be grazed. For the fi rst several years this area will be fenced off, and the animals will graze between the rays that stretch out into the landscape. The tree-hedges consist of oak mixed with hawthorn, rowan, dog roses, hazel and elder. Once these trees are big and strong, the fences will be removed so that the animals can graze under the canopies of the rays. Nature playground For children and the young at heart two small-scale faces of the sun have been laid out on the grass area to the north of the wood, making the pattern easy to see. One is made of stone and the other from wooden posts. Main path with lime avenue The main path through the wood, with a rampart on the grazing side and a ditch on the wooded side is lined with dense and partially trimmed lime trees. This avenue will emphasise the impression of the manor house landscape that Hans Christian Andersen knew so well. There are four small bridges across the ditch into the wood itself. One of them is a special Crown Princess bridge.

The Hans Christian Andersen Wood

wood planted in honour of Hans Christian Andersen is one of the most enduring commemorations of the 200th anniversary of the writer’s birth we can imagine. This also means there will be more woods in Odense, which we need. The Hans Christian Andersen Wood is in the shape of the paper cutting “The Sun as a Face”, which shows the face of the sun and the corona, and makes this wood very different indeed. The face has been planted as a bright and open oak wood with a large number of trees stretching out into the landscape. The eyes, nose, mouth and cheeks are formed by clearings in the wood, bordered with trimmed lime trees. The wood has been in the process of being established since 2001, and is made up of deciduous trees which originate from Denmark. The lime trees are the broad-leaved variety Tilia Platyphyllos, while the oaks are the common oak Quercus Robur. The oak trees have been collected from around the municipality during woodland thinning work, and have been carefully transferred to the Hans Christian Andersen Wood. The wood will resemble those woods where the writer wandered during his numerous visits to the various manor houses of Denmark. These manor houses had, and still have, extensive grounds which in many places merge almost invisibly with the surrounding trees and fi elds. It is exactly this environment – the boundary between the well-cultivated manor house garden and the surrounding landscape that the Hans Christian Andersen Wood attempts to recreate. In time the woods will attract the plants and birds characteristic of oak woods. This is a place where we can immediately relax, close our eyes and once again feel the breath of history. The wood will be romantic and like a park – exactly in the spirit of Hans Christian Andersen.

The oak wood The oaks in the wood have been planted a good distance apart, 15 x 15 metres. This means that the trees can develop large wide canopies and branch right down to the ground. The aim is to create a wood where light can penetrate to the ground, thus allowing fl owers, herbs and grass to grow well. The mouth In the clearing which forms the mouth of the paper cutting it is possible to create a small, intimate sunken stage surrounded by a stone edging and large monoliths. A light, simple cover would make this an attractive place for small, fairytale like events. Quotations At small, peaceful spots in the wood, resting points could be set up where a few well chosen quotations from Hans Christian Andersen’s tales could be on display. This would allow the visitors to ponder on the stories and remember the old writer. Sponsors You can become a sponsor of one or more of the 163 oak trees in the wood. This costs DKK 10,000 per tree, and all of the money goes to establishing new elements in making the wood an even more attractive place to visit. The campaign is being run by the Plant a Tree Committee. Any enquiries should be made to: The Plant a Tree Local Committee for Odense, Otterup and Munkebo, Odense Castle, 5000 Odense C, Tel: +45 6551 2004 Story and pictures courtesy of Visit Denmark

New spot for nature lovers of all ages Access The main entrance to the Hans Christian Andersen Wood is from Svendsagervej, where a large car park has been established. Picnic place At the car park on Svendsagervej a special rest area has been created. It goes up to the grazing area, with a building combining a stall for the animals and a shelter for the visitors. The entrance to the shelteris fenced off so the animals can safely be seen close at hand.

Hørring Læsø Nørresundby Aalborg Thyborøn Grenaa

Aarhus

Ringkøbing JUTLAND

Horsens

Røskild

FUNEN

Korsør

Sorø

Aabenaa Tønder Sønderborg Rødby Havn

The World’s Biggest Hotel Family BEST WESTERN hotel ToRVEhallerne A/S Kirketorvet 10-16, 7100 Vejle; Tel: 7942 7900; www.torvehallerne.dk

BEST WESTERN hotel knudsens gaard Hunderupgade 2, 5230 Odense; Tel: 6311 4311, info@knudsensgaard.dk; www.knudsensgaard.dk

Helsingør Hillerød

BEST WESTERN hotel city Peder Skrams Gade 24, 1054 Cph K;

Tel: 3313 0666, hotelcity@hotelcity.dk; www.hotelcity.dk

Køge

EALAND Rønne MØN

BEST WESTERN hotel ritz Banegårdspladsen 12, 8000 Aarhus c; Tel: 8613 4444, mail@hotelritz.dk; www.hotelritz.dk

Nykøbing

copenhagen city, Zealand

A harbour infused in history By Justin Cremer

When the weather’s nice, it’s hard to think of a location in all of Copenhagen that can compete with Nyhavn. The 17th century waterfront canal district is one of the city’s most vibrant scenes, full of visitors and residents alike enjoying a drink or a meal at any one of the number of bars and restaurants that line the canal’s north side, or simply strolling along taking in the bright, multi-coloured storefronts or the classic ships in the harbour.

he idyllic scene of today’s Nyhavn hides a bit of lurid history. Constructed under orders from King Christian V, Nyhavn’s canal was dug by Swedish prisoners-of-war from one of the many wars between the now friendly neighbours. Christian was looking to establish a port of entry from the sea to the heart of the inner city to make it easier to transport cargo and the hauls of fishermen. When ocean vessels became too large for Nyhavn, the canal was used to transport smaller goods domestically until that too died out after World War II. After it was left bereft of ships, a revitalisation effort kicked off in the 1960s that culminated in the area being inaugurated as a veteran ship and museum harbour

in 1977, lining the canal with old wooden ships. Aside from its practical uses, Nyhavn has always been a centre of life. In its early years, it was an area mostly associated with sailors, prostitutes, and copious amounts of drinking. In the late 19th century, after noticing many sailors coming in to port sporting tattoos they had gathered on their journeys, local entrepreneurs set up simple tattoo stations and established Nyhavn as the only place in the whole of Scandinavia to get tattooed. The area held that distinction for nearly a century, and wild stories abound about the merry mix of drunken sailors, tattoo artists and ladies of the night. Those looking for a unique and long-lasting souvenir can descend the steps at Nyhavn 17 and enter Tattoo-Ole, the oldest still-functioning tattoo shop in the world, and get a tattoo of a flash design drawn by the original ‘Tattoo Ole’, Denmark’s most renowned tattooist Ole Hansen (1929-1988), who once applied ink to King Frederik IX. On a more wholesome note, famed Danish author Hans Christian Andersen, originally from Odense, lived in Nyhavn for several long stretches between 1834 and his death in 1875. A small plaque can be found at Nyhavn 18 commemorating the nearly 20 years he lived there, during which time he wrote countless stories and plays. If, while soaking up all of Nyhavn’s history and (hopefully, anyway) sunshine, you want to blend in with the locals - and save yourself some money - grab a couple of cold beers at a nearby kiosk and stake out a spot along the pier’s edge. There, you can watch the throngs go by and be entertained by street buskers. And you won’t even need to worry about your empty cans - eagle-eyed entrepreneurs will claim your empties for the deposit as soon as you’ve swallowed the last drop.

Recline in top Danish design By Justin Cremer

BEST WESTERN Hotel City Peder Skrams Gade 24, 1054 Cph K; 3313 0666, hotelcity@hotelcity.dk; www.hotelcity.dk

estled on a quiet street just a stone’s throw from the bustling Nyhavn district, BEST WESTERN Hotel City offers a perfect location for those interested in staying in the heart of Copenhagen and experiencing a taste of two of Denmark’s most famed products - design and alternative energy.

Opened in 1955, Hotel City is a Best Western hotel with a distinctly Danish flair. Guest rooms are outfitted with Danish furniture, including Arne Jacobsen’s famed Swan Chair, and feature large black and white photographs by Danish photographer Jan Persson. The hotel’s original clientele was largely visiting sailors, but it has long since become a favourite of tourists of all stripes. BEST WESTERN Hotel City is a family business, owned by John Mortensen, who purchased it off his parents, the original owners, in 1977. Since its opening it has gone through three major renovations.

The latest was in 2008-09 and instituted the classical Danish design featured today. In addition to showcasing design, the hotel is a symbol of the country’s position at the forefront of environmental responsibility. BEST WESTERN Hotel City is fully powered by wind and its rooms are outfitted with water saving toilets, sinks and showers. The hotel also has a stable of bikes for rent, inviting guests to join Copenhageners in their preferred - and environmentally-friendly - mode of transportation. The hotel’s environmental policy even extends to its expansive free breakfast buffet, which serves only organic bread. On a recent visit to BEST WESTERN Hotel City, The Copenhagen Post was greeted warmly by the front desk personnel and handed an old-fashioned key chain, complete with a bottle opener, that guests are welcome to leave on a hook at the front desk when they want to go out and about. Upon entering the room, the first thing we noticed was the large photograph of American jazz saxophonist Ben Walker, which gave the room a welcoming presence. We then set our iPhone in the room’s provided iPod dock and let the music fill the room as we sat on the couch and kicked our feet up. If we had had a business meeting the next day, we would have taken advantage of the room’s trouser press.

BEST WESTERN HOTEL CITY*** The hotel is a cosy 3 star business hotel, focusing on design, quality and personal service. Located in downtown Copenhagen and close to the old port of Nyhavn. Copenhagen Airport is easily reached via Metro from Kongens Nytorv. Free WIFI all over the hotel and a grand breakfast buffet that offers a good start for the day. BEST WESTERN HOTEL CITY Peder Skrams Gade 24 • 1054 København K, Denmark Tel +45 3313 0666 • Fax +45 3313 0667 hotelcity@hotelcity.dk • www.hotelcity.dk

SUMMER EVENTS IN COPENHAGEN WHAT ’S ON? Distortion, June 1-5 Carnival, June 10-13 Roskilde Festival, June 30-July 3 Copenhagen Thai Festival, June 26 Copenhagen Jazz Festival, July 1-10 Copenhagen Summer Festival, July 24-Aug 4 Copenhagen Opera Festival, July 27-Aug 1 Metropolis Festival, Aug 1-31

Attractions

Copenhagen City, Zealand While a large flatscreen TV is available in every room, we skipped the boob tube and instead headed out into the city. Given the hotel’s choice location, there was no shortage of options. Here’s a helpful guide of the area’s highlights:

Free access to 65 museums and attractions in the entire metropolitan area

The big three (or four) From the hotel, you can walk through Nyhavn, cross Kongens Nytorv and make your way to Strøget, thus seeing three of the city’s top tourist attractions in a matter of minutes. The largest pedestrian shopping area in all of Europe, Strøget stretches from Kongens Nytorv (the ritzier end) down to the Town Hall Square (Rådhuspladsen). A brief detour onto Købmagergade will lead you directly to the Round Tower (Rundetårn), another favourite.

For the kids If shopping is not your thing, or if you are travelling with children who view shopping as a mild form of torture, take the family to the Guinness World Records Museum (Østergade 16; www.topattractions. dk), near the Kongens Nytorv end of Strøget. In addition to displays on the world’s tallest man, longest 9 moustache, and other ‘-ests’, there is a toy world sure to please the young and young at heart.

Eat a dog No trip to Copenhagen would be complete with a stop at one of the city’s many pølsevogner - the hot dog stands. Both Kongens Nytorv and Nyhavn have them.

See more at copenhagencard.com

REMEMBER COPENHAGEN IS BEST SEEN See the city in style FROM THE Just out the door and to the right from Hotel City is the entrance to the Saga Queen, Copenhagen’s only restaurant cruise ship (Havnegade 31; www.sagaqueen.dk). Available for both lunch and dinWATER And some ice cream

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In the basement ice cream shop Isobar at Havnegade 51, you can get homemade organic ice cream in a bowl or waffle cone and enjoy flavours such as chilli chocolate and the house favourite pistachio with a nice view of the water.

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JCANAL TOURS PRESENTS LIVE JAZZ 9

SUNDAY & THURSDAY JAZZCRUISE 2011 The jazz tour lasts approx. 1½ hours and departs from Nyhavn

ner, you will be treated to wonderful food and a beautiful view of the city from the water as the ship cruises by all the must-see sites.

The price is DKK 140,00

Catch a show Hotel City is only a five-minute walk away from the Danish Royal Theatre (Det Kongelige Teater; Kongens Nytorv 9; www.kglteater.dk). Even if most of the performances are in Danish, it’s worth at least popping your head into. It’s been there since 1748, after all. And hey, some of us don’t ‘get’ theatre no matter what language it’s in!

Swim On the Christianshavn side of the harbour, there are piers where locals will jump in for a dip. If you’re not up for a swim, it’s still worth a gander to see if you can catch any naked Danes (don’t worry; you will).

WWW.CANALTOURS.COM

Airport The Metro runs to and from Copenhagen Airport. The trip from the City Centre takes 14 minutes.

10-clip card – Same as tickets, but with up to a 40% discount. Remember

Find more travel info at intl.m.dk

Zone 3

to stamp the card at the start of your journey. City Pass – Unlimited travel throughout central Copenhagen (all Metro stations) for a 24- or 72-hour period.

Tickets You can purchase tickets from the Metro ticket machines located at all Metro stations. Ticket prices vary depending on the number of zones you travel. Valid for one or two hours.

Timetable The Metro operates 24 hours aday, all week. Trains leave every 2-6 minutes during the day and every 8-20 minutes at night.

Zone 1 Concert Hall

Zone 2 Zone 1

EXPLORE THE CITY

Zone 3 Zone 4

Let’s go

Places to see

Copenhagen City, Zealand

Treat your queen to a cruise to remember By Justin Cremer Saga Queen

Havnegade 31, Cph K (near Nyhavn); sails twice Thu-Sat at 13:00 (lunch cruise last two hours) & 19:00 (dinner cruise last three hours); reservations at 46 75 64 60 & info@sagaqueen.dk; www.sagaqueen.dk; three-course set menus (only for groups of at least 10 diners), lunch 275kr, dinner 375kr

hen it comes to dining out in Copenhagen, let’s face it, there are a lot of options. From the world’s best restaurant Noma, to the kebab restaurants on seemingly every corner to the endless array of quality cafes, Copenhagen is a city rich with dining possibilities. However, if you are really looking to impress - whether it be a very special date, a business deal you need to close, or just a good chance to show off your wonderful city to out-of-town visitors - it would be hard to beat the Saga Queen. Copenhagen’s only restaurant cruise ship, the Saga Queen is an unquestionably unique dining experience. Sailing up and down Copenhagen Harbour, the Saga Queen offers a two-hour lunch cruise as well as a three-hour dinner cruise aboard a 50 metre ship built especially to allow for passage under Knippelsbro, thus opening up all of Copenhagen’s waterfront attractions. On a recent warm and sunny spring evening, my wife and I

were greeted warmly by restaurant manager Carlos Santos and shown to our table. I’d mention that our table had a wonderful window view, but that was the case with every table on board as the ship’s panoramic windows ensure that there is no bad seat in the house. As the ship set sail from its dock on Havnegade near Nyhavn and headed north along the harbour, we were offered a welcoming drink and given our first look at the Saga Queen’s à la carte menu. We had a tough time choosing between the various options before deciding that when on a romantic cruise you should just throw caution to the wind and go all out with a five-course meal (well, okay, maybe we didn’t go all out - we could have also opted for a six or seven course meal, but for us it was luxurious enough). The first to arrive was a mussel soup served with chorizo and fennel. The full, flavourful soup was an excellent start and, despite the many gastronomical pleasures to come, was nearly the highlight of the evening. Our server offered to pair our courses with a recommended wine and his choice of a South African chenin blanc was an appropriate complement to the somewhat spicy chorizo. Or course, pairing both with the view of the Opera on your right certainly served to enhance the flavour as well. Our next course consisted of a rhymed salmon with a relish of tomatoes and pickled spring onion, as well as a mini romaine salad with walnuts, pears, and pickled mushrooms. Though I’m not usually one for cold salmon (my wife, on the other hand, is crazy for it), the salmon dish was fantastic and the salad’s mushrooms were fresh and bursting with flavour. The course was paired with a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. As we sailed on, past Amalienborg and Kastallet, we journeyed up to the ship’s deck for a bit of fresh air. While the evening air was a bit chilly, we had the deck to ourselves and felt for a minute like Kate and Leo in Titanic - “top of the world!” For the main course, we both opted for the lamb served with butter-toasted herbs, gnocchi, baked garlic and spinach. The rack

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of lamb was juicy and tender and tasted delicious when swept through the spinach sauce with a bit of garlic. We may have outed ourselves as the most uncivilised patrons on board, but it was so good we couldn’t help picking up the bone to gnaw off the last of the meat. By this time the sun had nearly gone down, creating a beautiful effect as the last rays of sunlight sparkled off the water and the buildings along the harbour turned on their lights. After a short pause to soak it all in, we were given a cheese dish with comté served with truffle honey and almonds with toasted rye bread. This was served with a California zinfandel, chosen for its sweetness and not just to appeal to my nationalistic pride. Our dessert plate consisted of a rhubarb crumble with chocolate mousse and pancotta served with passion fruit. True to our usual form, my wife favoured the chocolate dish while I almost single-handedly devoured the fruity offering. On this round, it was the Portuguese Mr Santos’ nationalistic pride at the forefront, as he served us a nice port. I’ve been to some dinners where three hours have felt like an eternity. Aboard the Saga Queen, however, the time passed by quickly and pleasurably as we enjoyed a feast for both our eyes and our very satisfied stomachs.

aarhus, jutland

The jewel of Jutland By Dave Andersen

A port town on the eastern coast of Jutland, Aarhus is a city of great significance in the history of Denmark, dating back to a time before even the Vikings roamed Scandinavia. Today, visitors to Denmark’s second city encounter a wonderful dichotomy: cutting edge contemporary design and proud, traditional heritage, with the two lying literally side by side and seeming to blend into one another with an effortless charm. Although Aarhus is, by most people’s standards, a small city, it nevertheless has its own unique and irrepressible charisma.

he old half of the Aarhus city centre, known as the Latin Quarter, is made up of narrow, cobbled streets with most of the small buildings painted in deep rustic yellow and brown shades. There is a small cafe to be found on almost every street corner with kitsch second hand shops, independent fashion boutiques and small art and pottery stores dotted in between. It seems that all the inhabitants of Aarhus are specialists in the Danish art of ‘hygge’ – and the Latin Quarter especially is where that indescribable and uniquely Danish trait is tangible for everyone who passes through. The meeting point between the old and new part of the city is Aarhus Cathedral, which stands in Store

Torv. The cathedral has existed as it is now for about 500 years and is beautiful to look at from the inside as well as out and, just like the city in general, it is not overwhelming in terms of size or grandeur. Of the new half of Aarhus city centre, the giant, rainbow-coloured ring that sits on top of Aros art museum (www.aros.dk) is a reminder that contemporary Danish design is just as prevalent as traditional styles around the city. The museum itself is a must-see for all art lovers visiting Aarhus as it does not just have a large array of contemporary and installation art but also houses exhibitions dedicated to the Golden Age and the Danish modernism period of the early 20th century. The Aarhus Concert Hall (www.musikhusetaarhus.dk) plays host to the Aarhus Symphony Orchestra and the Danish National Opera whilst also putting on free events most days of the year. As you would expect, there is also a strong culture of all branches of pop music from hip-hop to folk present in Aarhus, most of which can be found at Train (www.train.dk), a night club and concert venue which will boast artists such as Ice Cube and When Saints Go Machine appearing live in the near future. The outskirts of the city also offer many interesting possibilities if you’re looking to visit Aarhus for more than a couple of days. Ebeltoft Safari Park (www.reepark.dk) and Gammel Estrup Manor House (www.gammelestrup.dk) are both excellent family days out within a 30 minutes drive from Aarhus whilst there are also several golf courses dotted around the outer edges of the city. Although Aarhus may not be a city of mind-blowing proportions, its modest but beautiful surroundings make it the perfect place for a few days away.

Homely hotel that honours its heritage By Dave Andersen

BEST WESTERN Hotel Ritz Banegårdspladsen 12, 8000 Aarhus C; 8613 4444, mail@hotelritz.dk; www.hotelritz.dk

otel Ritz is a three-star Best Western hotel situated on Banegaardspladsen, a busy main street just a short walk from the pedestrianised city centre of Aarhus. With beginnings dating back to 1932, the Ritz has managed to retain its traditional feel and charm whilst not sacrificing a cosy and relaxed atmosphere. The insides of the entire hotel have been renovated extensively over the years, but the renovators have taken care to preserve the architecture and décor of the original building. Polished stone tiles line the entrance hall and they have not altered a magnificent stone

fireplace that harks back to the origins of the building in the 1930s. Despite its rather grand and traditional appearance, a stay at the BEST WESTERN Hotel Ritz is by no means an overly formal affair. The staff are laid back and friendly, which makes for a relaxed atmosphere. The double rooms are large and spacious, offering en suite baths and showers, satellite television and, most importantly, very comfortable beds. On a pleasant day, the rooms get plenty of sunlight through their large windows, but don’t expect a great view of the city from most vantage points in the hotel, except if you are lucky enough to get a peek of the beautiful town hall building over the road. A buffet breakfast is available every day in the basement of the hotel and although there is the slight drawback of missing out on the summer sun down in the basement, the extensive spread is well worth it if you’re looking to fill up for a day of sight seeing and activities around the city. For evening meals, the adjoining restaurant, Mash, is well known around the city for its American style steaks but also has a wide range of other dishes, not to mention a vast wine cellar. The location of the hotel also makes it very easy to find and, with its own private car park, the central train station and bus terminal all in the immediate vicinity, getting there and away could not be easier.

Summer special! BEST WESTERN HOTEL RITZ***

845 DKK for a standard double room

Best Western Hotel Ritz offers 67 classic rooms, all renovated and equipped with modern facilities. All rooms have private toilet and bathroom, big flat screen TV’s, wireless internet access free of charge, telephone and desk. BEST WESTERN HOTEL RITZ Banegårdspladsen 12 • 8000 Aarhus C, Denmark Tel +45 8613 4444 • Fax +45 8613 4587 mail@hotelritz.dk • www.hotelritz.dk

SUMMER EVENTS IN AARHUS WHAT ’S ON? UEFA Under 21 Championship, June 11-25 Sculpture by the sea, 2 June-3 July NorthSide Festival, 11-12 June Aarhus Summer Blues + Soul night, July 9 Aarhus Jazz Festival, July 9-16 Denmark’s Ugliest Market, Aug 4-6 The Aarhus Festival, Aug 26-Sep 4 Viking Moot at Moesgård, July 31-August 1

Attractions Aarhus, Jutland Shopping opportunities The surrounding area offers plenty of tourist attractions and things to do that don’t require much, if any, pre-planning. Just a couple of minutes walk from the door of the hotel is Strøget – the pedestrianised high street comprising over 100 stores and stretching from the central train station all the way down to the cathedral, which serves as a lovely centre point for the city. Strøget caters for almost all shopper’s needs – high fashion, sportswear and many well known high street names such as H&M and Monki are all available in abundance along this main street. There is also a Magasin department store just off the high street offering the latest in Danish and international design.

Den Gamle By Viborgvej 2; open daily10:00–17:00 (until June 24), and then 09:00-18:00 until Sep 4; over-17s 100kr, under-17s free adm;8612 3188, mail@dengamleby.dk; www.dengamleby.dk For family trips, Den Gamle By, situated about ten minutes walk from the hotel, is a prime attraction. It is an open air museum where the visitors can interact with the surroundings and the characters of Denmark’s social history by walking through over 75 genuine historic buildings that date back as far as the 1600s. A cast of yesteryear’s characters, from the mayor to the blacksmith, also inhabit the town, completing the interactive experience – a guaranteed crowd pleaser for parents and children alike.

Steno Museum of the History of Science and Medicine CF Møllers Allé 2; open Tue-Fri 09:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-16:00; over-18s 30kr, under-18s free adm 8942 3975; www.stenomuseet.dk The Steno Museum of the History of Science and Medicine is another interesting visit for the whole family. It features a planetarium showing educational films about the universe and its galaxies as well as a medicinal herb garden. Although it may not be a universal crowd pleaser, it offers a fun learning environment to both the casual observer and the scientific enthusiast.

Restaurant Margueritten Guldsmedgade 20; dinner served 17.00-22.30; 8619 6033; www.margueritten.dk As a visitor in Aarhus it is impossible to ignore the vast number of cafes and restaurants that populate this charming city – food is something the Danes take very seriously, and Aarhus is no exception. Along the canal front, cafes sit in rows, welcoming visitors with a friendly atmosphere and good food, but to find something a little more private and personal, the Latin Quarter (10-15 minute walk from Banegaardspladsen) is home to many hidden charms. In particular, Restaurant Margueritten’s cobble-stoned back yard is the perfect setting for an intimate dinner for two, offering a wide ranging and flexible menu based on traditional French, Italian and Danish cuisine.

Havreballe Skov Just to the south of the city itself is a large green area that is dominated by the woodland called Havreballe Skov. On the outskirts of the woods you can find the Jydsk Vaeddelobsbane race course (www.jvb-aarhus.dk) and the Tivoli Friheden fairground (www.friheden.dk). Tivoli, much like Copenhagen’s own Tivoli, is a fun day out for all the family with rollercoasters, a ferris wheel and all sorts of fairground stalls.

Places to see Aarhus, Jutland Nature in Aarhus

stream running through the whole forest. Recommendable access age: Not younger than 2 years. Please be careful at the stream!

Aarhus has many parks and peaceful spots, lots of fresh air and clean water for fishing and swimming.

Riis Forest

the thor forest Thorskoven, , 8270 Højbjerg Formerly there were 4 water mills in the Thor Forest. one of the mills, Thor’s Mill, can still be seen, however, with a new mill house. Today this mill is a restaurant. Varna Mill was situated all the way down by the sea, and the pond and stone-built fall belonging to this mill can still be seen by the road. In the southern part of Thor Forest, the building Silistria Mill was situated. This is now being used by the information club PAN. In 1909 the impressive Varna Restaurant was built at the former Varna Mill. In 1971 it was sold by the municipality to the Odd-Fellow-order, who is running a restaurant and has club rooms there too. In the Thor Forest a fenced zoological park has been established where various kinds of deer and a wild boar in a special pen can be seen. Here and in the western area a number of grave mounds plus sharp traces of ancient terraced fields show that the place has been settled during the Iron Age. Along the shoreline from the fall of the Varna Stream passing Ballehage and Silistria there are some very popular beaches. At Silistria and further down south the beach is used as berth for small boats.

Havreballe Forest Havreballe Skov, , 8000 Aarhus C Until 1896 Havreballe Skov (forest) and the rest of the Marselisborg Skovene (the Marselisborg Forests) belonged to a manor the home farm of which was situated in the northern part of the forest where Marselisborg Gymnasium (Marselisborg Grammar School) stands to-day. The original name of the farm was “Havreballegård”, however, in 1680 it changed its name into “Marselisborg” with the new owner Baron Constantin Marselis. In 1896 Aarhus Kommune (the municipality of Aarhus) entered into possession of the manor and the forest. In 1904 a restaurant was built in Havreballe Skov. Later the area known as “Friheden” was converted into an amusement park.

Vilhelmsborg Forest Vilhelmsborg Skov, , 8330 Beder Vilhelmsborg Manor is one of the three large manor houses south of Aarhus. Vilhelmsborg Forest is situated at both sides of the Giber Aa east of the manor. The forest is a beautiful beech forest with deep steep slopes down towards the stream and with some unique and very beautiful scenic pictures. In the forest you will find a number of ancient monuments such as grave mounds an old sunken roads. In 1973 the municipality of Aarhus bought the manor house, the forest and the surrounding lands. To-day Vilhelmsborg Manor is the seat of Denmark`s National Equestrian Centre with national as well as international competitions.

Marselisborg forest

The Beach Forest Strandskoven, , 8270 Højbjerg In 1935 the municipality bought a large field- and beach area from the manor Moesgaard for public recreational purpose. In the summer this is one of the most popular beaches in Denmark. At the same time an area with forest along the beach was bought too and it was named the Strandskoven. At Abelshoved you will find a group of trees called “Sømærketræerne” and at the foot of the hillside on the very beach you can see the Kristuskilden, a small sparsely waterleading opening in the hillside. The Fiskerhuset is situated fursouth not far from the fall of Giber Aa (river) that leads directly into the sea.

Riis Skov, , 8240 Risskov In the year of 1395 Her Majesty Queen Margrethe the 1st determined the demarcation of the common field at which the southern part of Riis Skov (Riis Forest) went to the town of Aarhus. The northern part of the forest were presented to the town by His Majesty King Christian the 3rd in 1542. Riis Skov were the primary picnic destination for the citiziens of Aarhus in the 19th century and the forest became more and more visited. In the 19th century there was a wide range of entertainment including music three different places in the forest, at “Salonen” (now “Sjette Frederiks Kro” (restaurant) ), at Ferdinands Plads (square in the forest) and “Pavillionen” now a danhostel inn, Aarhus Vandrerhjem. From the town of Aarhus it was possible to take a horse-drawn cab or the “skovbåde” (“boats of the forest”) which sailed until 1938. The main purpose of the forest is still to be a recreative area for the citiziens of Aarhus city and the suburbs. Visitors are welcome in Riis Skov 24 hours and all months the year. The forest consists of a varied vegetation as well as a good system of paths and smaller roads. From the western side (especially the south-western part) of the Riis Skov there is an excellent view over the Aarhus Bugt (Bay of Aarhus).

t h e r

Hørret forest Hørret skov, , 8320 Mårslet Take the bus to Hørret Skov (forest), get off and follow the paths into the forest. Hørret Skov is a large forest with marked paths, hazel shrubs, (remember to bring along bags in the autumn), and a

Kongevejen 1, 8000 Aarhus C South of Aarhus a forest belt streches 7 kilometres along the coast. The part of the forest near the city is known as Marselisborg Skovene (the Marselisborg Forests). The large, continuous and old beech stands which can be seen in this area are quite unique in Denmark. The ground is hilly with deep slopes. In some places the clay soil of the slopes has fallen down so that the trees lean towards the water. Around 1820 the forests were badly overcut. Therefore the present trees have practically all been planted after this period. However, some conifers have been planted in this century. Spread around the forests, especially in Moesgård Skov you will find a few 200-300 year old beech trees which have been preserved for aesthetic reasons. Today they are the breeding place for some species of birds brooding in caves. Story and pictures courtesy of Visit Denmark

Getting there and away ... By James Fyfe

ODENSE

train Odense is located on the small island of Funen, smack bang in the middle between Zealand and Jutland and is roughly 150km from the capital.

Trains leaving Copenhagen depart from the main station (Københavns Hovedbanegården) approximately every 20 minutes. The trip takes around one and a half hours to reach Odense and the journey costs between 250-300kr one way. See www.dsb.dk for exact times and prices.

BUS

To get to Odense by bus, Sims Turistbiler has buses departing twice a day from Copenhagen at Valby (Lyshøjgårdsvej no. 69). Buses leave at 05:10 and 15:05 and run seven days a week. Tickets cost 165kr one way and the trip takes a little over two hours. See www. sims-turistbiler.dk for exact times and prices. The return bus to Copenhagen departs from Odense Station and also leaves twice a day, with departures at 12:45 and 22:40.

AARHUS

train

BUS

Aarhus lies around 300km from Copenhagen and the train ride there takes around three hours and costs in the vicinity of 400kr depending on what type of ticket you choose. Trains leave twice an hour for this scenic journey to the country’s second biggest city, located to the north-west of Copenhagen, on Jutland’s eastern coast.

The bus to Aarhus takes around three hours and costs 290kr one way or 500kr return. It leaves from Valby Station eight-times daily. See abildskou.dk for more info. The return trip leaves from Aarhus Station and also departs eight times a day.

VEJLE

train

BUS

Also situated on Jutland’s eastern coast, though further south than Aarhus, is the city of Vejle. With trains departing twice an hour and costing around 350kr, this journey takes roughly two and a half hours.

Leaving Valby in Copenhagen at 06:00 every day the bus to Vejle takes three and a quarter hours. The return trip leaves Vejle station at 13:10 and arrives in Copenhagen at 16:30. www.simsturistbiler.dk.

The metro in Copenhagen is a great way to see the city!

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Canadian filmmaker can no longer bite his ‘Tung’ By Ben hamilton

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The Copenhagen Post Guide

Concept behind Danish sitcom ‘Tung Metal’ was stolen, ex-resident says

FormEr resident of Copenhagen - the Canadian film producer and writer Tyler Levine - is in the process of launching legal action against Grif Film, the makers of ‘Tung metal’, a Danish sitcom currently airing on TV2 Zulu that he claims is based on a series he finished writing earlier this year. “my lawyer is sending the production company a letter in the coming days ordering them to cease and desist,” Levine exclusively told The Copenhagen Post. Levine wrote his series, provisionally entitled ‘one Hit Wonder’, over an 18-month period from June 2008 to December 2009. A colleague of Levine’s translated the series into Danish, and comedian Thomas Hartmann agreed to work with Levine to make sure the series felt completely Danish. But, in late 2009, Hartmann stopped answering Levine’s calls. Levine claimed that Hartmann is a very close friend and writing partner of Grif Film’s Wadt Thomsen, the co-writer of ‘Tung metal’. However, Levine stressed

Artwork: Mr. A Former resident Tyler Levine claims the hit TV series ‘Tung Metal’ originates from his earlier manuscript

that Hartmann was not involved in writing Thomsen’s sitcom. “I’ve been told he was definitely not a part of this,” he said. The Copenhagen Post contacted Thomsen on Wednesday about Levine’s claims and he rejected them, saying “it’s strange to us”. Thomsen explained that the idea for the series originated at a meeting with TV2 Zulu in the spring of 2010 at which the broadcaster asked Grif Film to create a project for the long-

haired stand-up comedian Geo, who plays the central character. “Given Geo’s appearance, heavy metal was an obvious direction to go in,” he said. “The first we heard about these claims was when we received a call from Thomas Hartman asking us what the sitcom was about. He didn’t even know what it was about.” Thomsen rejected Levine’s claims that Hartmann is a writing partner, but conceded that they know each other well, and that there have been shared inter-

est projects and meetings. “Besides, Thomas and Geo don’t really like each other’s humour,” he added. In Levine’s version, the central character is a glamour metal musician who was big in the 1980s. In ‘Tung metal’ the central character is a heavy metal musician who was big in the 1990s. In both versions the comedy revolves around the musician’s attempts to reform his band, revive his career, and win back the love of a former girlfriend.

Levine is confident he has a strong case to show the concept was stolen. “The concept is exactly the same, the characters are the same and the writer is best friends (and a writing partner on a different project) with my writing partner on the project. That’s some coincidence!” he said. “my lawyer tells me we have a good paper trail to show the concept is mine as are the characters, which is plenty. The fact many of the story-lines appear similar is a bonus – the disastrous media interview in episode one for example.” Levine initially hired a Canadian lawyer, but has now retained a “top Danish law firm”. “It’s been an interesting process being ripped off,’ concluded Levine. “of course, it’s been denied by the parties involved, who have said it’s all just a big coincidence. But, for me to have spent more than a year writing this and then to hear it’s now a popular show is just mud in my eye.’ So far the acclaim for the series, which according to Thomsen was simultaneously written and filmed, has been universal. However, audience figures have declined, from 124,000 for the opening episode in week 41 – the channel’s highest rating of the week – to less than half that three weeks later.

Hot jazz to banish those winter blues Copenhagen Winter Jazz Festival, various venues; starts Friday, ends February 6; ticket details at www.jazz.dk

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