WELCOME TO
COPENHAGEN Aug/Sep 2019 CPHPOST.DK
VISIT DENMARK: THOMAS RAUSING
TAKE A DIP IN DENMARK ITS HIDDEN DEPTHS WILL LEAVE YOU HUNGRY FOR MORE
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WHAT’S NEW REFFEN The new Copenhagen Street Food Market, taking up the mantel from the previous setting on Papirøen that closed in late 2017, is the must-go place to eat this summer. Located in the city’s former shipyards on the industrial island of Refshaleøen – which is rapidly becoming a hotspot for entrepreneurship, culture, breweries and extreme sports – there is more than enough to keep you busy all day. The street market’s line-up boasts cuisines from 17 different countries. No prizes for guessing what part of the world is being served up by Thrilla in Manilla or Lima by Mercedes. To get there, take the 9A bus from the main train station, or get the 991 or 992 harbour bus. THE FOREST TOWER It looked like something out of a fairy-tale when it was announced two years ago, but Camp Adventure’s forest tower, complete with a spiral walkway, quickly became a reality when it opened on March 31, welcoming 2,500 people on its first day. Set in the beautiful Gisselfeld Klosters forest some 70 km away from Copenhagen, on a good day you can see much further from above the forest canopy – to Sweden and beyond! Nearer to the tower, which costs 125 kroner to climb and is open from 10:00 every day, enjoy an awe-inspiring view of hills, meadows, lakes, wetlands and streams. To get there by car, take the E20 and E47 FIVE RECOMMENDATIONS from Copenhagen, or via rail, take a regional train to Næstved Station, from where the 630R bus will take you to within a kilometre. BOLTEN’S FOOD COURT Since April 13, Copenhageners have had a new favouite lunch haunt: Bolten’s Food Court, which is located at the end of Gothersgade just around the corner from Kongens Nytorv square. With plenty of seating both indoors and outdoors, it boasts 19 food stores serving cuisines from countries as far-flung as Morocco, Mexico and Brazil. Open daily from 11:00, it’s the ideal spot to fuel up when you can’t decide which cuisine you all want to eat. 2
TH E CO P E N H AG E N P OST TOURISM MAGA Z INE • AUG UST/ SE PTE M BER 2019
DAY OUT
PHOTO: AMALIENBORG.DK
I N S I D E T H E PA L AC E
The royal residence of Amalienborg offers a mixture of regal experiences Amalienborg is the Danish Royal Family’s main residence and consists of four palaces built in the 18th Century. You can take a truly royal day out and enjoy three royal experiences at the palace complex. This includes accessing two of the palaces and watching the changing of the Royal Life Guard, which takes place every day at noon. FOR ASPIRING ROYAL CHEFS At Christian VIII’s Palace you can take a closer look at royal life past and present. The museum presents the private interiors of the recent kings and queens, as well as an exhibition on the monarchy today, which this summer features a room dedicated to royal meals. On most days, there is also access to the magnificent royal representation rooms, which includes the impressive Gala Hall. FOR ASPIRING ROYAL GUESTS Christian VII’s Palace is the queen’s guest palace, and you can be shown round the spectacular rooms and halls where many royal festivities take place, including the traditional New Year’s Banquet.
AMALIENBORG Slotsplads 5, Mph K; open daily 10:00-17:00; 95kr, under-18s: free adm; amalienborg.dk T HE CO PEN H AG E N P O ST TO U R I S M M AGAZ INE • AUG UST/ SE PTE M BE R 2 0 1 9
PHOTO: AMALIENBORG.DK
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FEATURES
COPENHAGEN ON T WO WHEELS
A 48-HOUR BIKE TRIP STRAIGHT TO THE HEARTBEAT OF THE CAPITAL BY LAUREN BEAUCHAMP First, find a bike. Remember, unlocked ones tend to be the property of drunks, and borrowing one is a gamble. With the journeys we’ve got planned for you, a recently serviced bicycle is your best bet of getting from A to B. The rental service Donkey Republic takes pride in the condition of all its bicycles and in Copenhagen you’re never more than a short walk away from finding one, as they’re pretty much on every street corner in the capital! Download the app at donkey.bike to locate your nearest bicycle, purchase a two-day rental for 175 kroner – the price gets increasingly cheaper the longer you rent for; helmets for just 25 kroner a day are available to Donkey Republic customers via becopenhagen. dk/#find– and let’s get started!
DAY ONE
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Upscale Østerbro is a family-orientated neighbourhood. Rent a bike in the vicinity of Østerbrogade near the ‘eastend’ side of the famous Copenhagen Lakes (Søerne). The city’s largest park, Fælledparken, is easy to find and cycling on its paths is legal, making it a great place to practise if you have a few unsure members on your tour. Look up into the sky and you can see Parken Stadium – home to FC Copenhagen and also the national football team.
Continue down Nørrebrogade to the end of the cemetery and head left down Nordre Fasanvej until you reach Frederiksberg Have. Either enjoy a walk through the gardens or head straight to Copenhagen Zoo. While there are some pretty extraordinary animals to see, including two giant pandas recently arrived from China, the true stars are the buildings. The elephant and hippo enclosures are jaw-dropping, and those pandas weren’t going to arrive unless they had a pad fit for an emperor to live in.
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Once you’re up to speed, cycle down two of the Lakes to Dronning Louises Bro, the turn-off for Nørrebrogade. Later in the day, the bridge will become a hive of activity with a distinctly hipster vibe, but for now your best bet for quality sight-seeing is the Assistens Kirkegård cemetery, which can be found barely a kilometre away (as ethnic flavours drown out the hipster ethos) on the left. Anybody who was somebody is buried here, including Hans Christian Andersen and Søren Kierkegaard. Once again it’s permissible to cycle, as long as you don’t go too close to the graves ... or the mourners.
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At Sløjfen 6 grab some lunch at the traditional Danish eatery Café Lindevang. Established in 1938, it is one of the most authentic food spots in Frederiksberg.
2 PM Just west of Fredriksberg is Vesterbro, one of the most popular neighborhoods in Copenhagen. Istedgade is still home to the ‘red light district’ of Copenhagen, but it is ever shrinking under an onslaught of boutiques and vintage shops, stories selling antiques and knickknacks, galleries and fancy restaurants. It’s time for some serious shopping! TH E CO P E N H AG E N P OST TOURISM MAGA Z INE • AUG UST/ SE PTE M BER 2019
HOP ON A DONKEY BIKE AT ONE OF THE MANY LOCATIONS IN COPENHAGEN
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4 PM
where Rådhuspladsen and Tivoli meet.
One block away is Halmtorvet, the road that runs alongside Kødbyen, the city’s Meatpacking District. Greeting you are an array of bars and upscale takeaway restaurants.
8 PM Kødbyen is also a hot spot for nightlife, so if you’re not too drained after cycling all day, stick around. Bakken and Jolene Bar, both on Flæsketorvet, are easy to access and rarely charge on the door. Dance til you drop!
DAY TWO 8 AM Maybe an early start is a tad ambitious if you’ve been keeping Jolene busy all night (I’m begging of you please don’t take my plan), but we’ve got a perfect cure for the mini jungle rumbling inside your head. We command you to head over Langebro, a bridge a mere hop and a skip from
9 AM Barely before the end of the bridge, take a sharp right down to Islands Brygge and find a spot not covered in broken glass to whip off the improvised cycling gear and jump into the waters blue of Copenhagen Harbour. Technically this is the Baltic, but at the Islands Brygge Harbour Baths heavy netting ensures there’s no danger of nasty intruders – stinging jellyfish are surprisingly common the further you go out to sea. Ask yourself, as you paddle around, how many other capital cities have harbour waters you can legally swim in!
10 AM Take a quick detour east towards Christianhavn, a small area of islands worth driving around. With freetown Christiania a few wheelies away, you won’t be short of sights to see. From the Opera House to the Playhouse just opposite the waterfront, it’s Copenhagen architecture and design at its finest.
Dragør and Tårnby. A third of the 96 sq km island is made up of protected nature areas and we’re taking you to the biggest, Kalvebod Fælled (20 sq km). Heading away from Langebro, we challenge you to lose yourselves in the pretty massive wilderness that is Amager Fælled. As long as you keep a sense of direction, you’re realise it’s mostly flanked by straight roads leading you to the city’s biggest shopping centre, Field’s.
1 PM Stock up on drinks, and maybe find time for some shopping, but your biggest challenge lies ahead. Continuing in the same direction, head to the Den Røde Port, the gateway to Kalvebod Fælled, and opt for the middle road, Granatvej (where, as the name suggests, they found some unexploded grenades in mid July!).
11 AM If you’re feeling the vibe and like what you see, then keep pedalling all the way to Refshaleøn where you can try out La Banchina or the new Reffen Food Trucks for an early lunch.
12 PM Fuel up, because this is the big one: we’re heading to the wilds of Amager. Not only is it a city district, but it is also the name of the entire island and it contains two other municipalities:
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TH E CO P E N H AG E N P OST TOURISM MAGA Z INE • AUG UST/ SE PTE M BER 2019
ESBEN SALLING
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Cycling down gloriously flat Granatvej might seem rather innocuous, but don’t forget that you’re in an urban area. Look to the right and you’ll see rather futuristic residential buildings, and perhaps the odd bemused local who still can’t believe they ended up living in what appears to be the middle of nowhere. Look to the left and every couple of minutes you’ll see a plane landing or taking off from Copenhagen Airport, the very spot you were at just two days ago, and now look at you. It’s a lot to take in, but in a nutshell it’s the very essence of Copenhagen, and if you’re lucky, you’ll be so alone you’ll feel secluded.
A timely left will take you into the woods. Don’t venture too far as you don’t want to get lost, but if you’ve got camping gear, there are plenty of places to pitch up, along with municipal fireplaces to cook on.
5 PM On your way back, opt for Bryggebroen as your way back to the mainland – easily found near the corner of Amager Fælled and not further than 1 km from Island Brygge – as it leads almost directly onto the famous Bicycle Snake, a mesmeric elevated, spiraling construction with incredible vistas. Or maybe stop off between
T HE CO PEN H AG E N P O ST TO U R I S M M AGAZ INE • AUG UST/ SE PTE M BE R 2 0 1 9
bridges for another swim at the Fisketorvet harbour baths and have a quick snack at the shopping centre of the same name.
6 PM You’re back and after two days of exploring you’re finally ready to venture into the city centre. There’s Tivoli, of course, and Nyhavn as well – the first two places tourists tend to visit in Copenhagen. But why follow the crowd when you can hop on a bike or scooter and discover so much more.
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FEATURES
QUITE SIMPLY THE ‘IS’ IN DANISH
PRESENTING TEN OF THE BEST ICE CREAM PARLOURS IN COPENHAGEN
Help stave off the summer heat and humidity with a cone of the cold stuff. There’s a host of top-notch Copenhagen creameries to sample – from Sicilian gelato to traditional Danish flødeis – and to stop the brain freeze, we’ve compiled the best of the bunch for you.
ISTID
Jægersborggade 13, Cph N; open weekdays 12:00-18:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-18:00; istid.dk At Scandinavia’s first nitrogen ice cream shop you can choose from four distinctive flavours that change every month. Cereal milk with blackcurrant jams and Lime Pie are just some of the unusual tastes featured on ISTID’s menu. And don’t miss out on the boozy ice cream cocktails served on Friday evenings. This summer’s list includes Cookies & Cream and Salty Caramel.
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Siciliansk Is
Skydebanegade 3, Cph V; open daily 12:0021:00; sicilianskis.dk This old-school ice cream shop specialises in traditional Mediterranean gelato, importing most of its products directly from Italy to its Vesterbro parlour. Special ingredients include coffee beans roasted in Palermo, pistachios from Bronte and lemons from Messina. There are also outlets at Christianshavns Kanal 2 in the city centre and at Rantzausgade 56 in Nørrebro.
Bon Bon Ice
Andebakkesti 4, Frederiksberg; open Mon-Fri and Sunday 12:00-20:00, Sat 11:00-20:00; bonbonice.dk Since last year, the staff have paid a working visit to Italy and revitalised their menu, and the nostalgia and goodies are dripping from every item. Savour the home-baked cones, try the fruit sorbet milkshakes, and don’t, whatever you do, leave without trying the jumbo-sized Belgian waffle.
Oliver’s Garage
Kystvejen 24, Charlottenlund; open every day 09:00-22:00 in the summer; oliversgarage.dk Not content with selling one of the world’s best burgers from Gasoline Grill, a former service station near Kongens Nytorv, some of the city’s best ice cream can be found at this garage, which is housed in a listed building. The ice cream is sourced from Vebbestrup Flødeis.
Vaffelbageriet
Tivoli, Vesterbrogade 3, Cph V; open Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00; tivoli.dk Vaffelbageriet – the family-owned business located within Copenhagen’s Tivoli amusement park – has used age-old recipes since 1906. The creamery has been tipped as the one of the world’s best ice cream parlours by the New York Times and National Geographic; ask for an Amerikaner and you won’t be disappointed.
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Is à Bella
Torvehallerne, Frederiksborggade 21, Cph K; open 10:00-19:00; isabellais.dk Amongst the crowds at Torvehallerne food market, you will find the sweet treat Is à Bella. This creamery specialises in homemade Italian ice cream and has over 40 different flavours to choose from. And there’s even delicious goodies for vegans, diabetics or those with gluten intolerance.
Østerberg Ice Cream
Rosenvængets Allé 7C, Cph Ø; open Mon-Fri 12:00-21:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-21:00; osterberg-ice.dk Owner Cathrine Østerberg hails from a family known as a global superpower in the world of
fruit – dragonfruit, jackfruit and pomegranate are three of the more exotic flavours – although we were more taken by the gooey bits in the cookie dough and chocolate brownie scoops. As the logo says: “Taste the world!”
Hansens Mejeri Forhandler
Store Kongensgade 93, Cph K; open daily 12:0018:00; hansens-mejeri-forhandler.business.site As the name suggests, this exclusively sells one of Denmark’s most popular family brands, which takes pride in its local, ethical product selection. The rum ‘n’ raisin is to die for.
Nicecream
V; open Mon-Thu 12:00-20:00, Fri-Sun 12:0022:00; nicecreamcph.com Ice creams like they’ve been served by circus artists. Sandwiched, balancing, and creatively named, all the ingredients are organic. Nice to see you, to see you … gulp … gone.
Ismageriet
Rued Langgaards Vej nr. 6E, Cph S; open MonSat 09:00-23:00, Sun 10:00-23:00; ismageriet.dk Only organic milk and entirely natural ingredients go into creating the range of gourmet flavours at Ismageriet. Try the rhubarb sorbet for a fresh zing or the indulgent peanut fudge chocolate ice cream.
Elmegade 30, Cph N & Enghave Plads 10, Cph
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FEATURES
A CITY SWIMMING WITH OPTIONS
BEACHES, HARBOUR BATHS AND EVEN A FREE PUBLIC POOL ARE AMONG THE MANY POSSIBILITIES TO COOL OFF IN THE CAPITAL You probably wouldn’t dream of diving into the murky waters of London’s Thames for fear of catching some dreaded waterborne disease or coming face-to-face with an old crisps packet, but in Copenhagen – after a decade-long clean-up operation – the city’s waterways have been totally revamped and are now swimmable. In fact, Copenhagen was recently named the world’s best bathing city by CNN, over famous beach destinations such as Rio de Janeiro. The harbour baths and nearby city beaches are all open to the public and are free to use; since the opening of the first harbour bath back in 2002, the transformation has been met with great gusto from the locals, who flock to the baths come rain or shine. Islands Brygge Harbour Bath
Amager Beach Park
Svanemølle Beach
ISLANDS BRYGGE HARBOUR BATH Islands Brygge 7, Cph S; open 24/7, lifeguards on duty 11:00-19:00; free adm The first of the baths to open, Islands Brygge Harbour Bath – designed by famous Danish architect Bjarke Ingels – has now become a crucial fixture on Copenhagen’s waterfront. Nestled just below Langebro Bridge, bathers can take a vigorous plunge into the harbour’s depths whilst surrounded by the pulsing cityscape. FISKETORVET HARBOUR BATH Kalvebod Brygge 55, Cph V; open 24/7, lifeguards on duty 11:00-19:00; free adm
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If you’re looking to clock up some serious laps, visit Fisketorvet’s Olympic-size outdoor pool where there are designated swimming lanes and plenty of diving boards. There’s also a separate children’s pool and on duty lifeguards during opening hours. SLUSEHOLMEN HARBOUR BATH Ben Websters Vej 69, Cph SV; open 24/7, lifeguards on duty: 11:00-19:00; free adm Sluseholmen, the newest addition to Copenhagen’s Harbour Baths, was opened in 2011. The floating bath is designed in the beautiful shape of a coral reef – its name ‘Koralbadet’ means ‘coral bath’ in Danish. There is a 25m swim-
ming pool, a diving pool, a children’s pool and a paddling pool. AMAGER BEACH PARK Amager Strand Stien, Cph S; free adm; amager-strand.dk Just 5km from the city centre and easily accessible by the Metro, Amager Beach Park is popular with Copenhageners and in the summer months is crammed with beach-goers. From its sandy shores you’re treated to an arresting view of a turbine park and the Øresund Bridge linking Denmark and Sweden.
TH E CO P E N H AG E N P OST TOURISM MAGA Z INE • AUG UST/ SE PTE M BER 2019
Bellevue Beach
Fisketorvet Harbour Bath
Kalvebod Bølge
Bavnehøj Friluftsbad
KALVEBOD BØLGE Kalvebod Brygge, Cph K; free adm In the waters opposite Islands Brygge lies a snaky wooden promenade that at one point reaches a third across the harbour’s expanse, offering bathers a challenging swim several metres below their vantage point. Ideal for meeting friends and chilling, the 49 million kroner construction opened in 2013. SVANEMØLLE BEACH Strandpromenaden 36, Cph Ø; free adm One of the newest additions to Copenhagen’s watering holes – finished in 2010 – is Svanemølle Beach. Its distinctive bay with a shallow gradient makes it perfect for families, and a 130m long
pier provides access to deeper waters for any adventurous types. The beach is staffed with lifeguards during the summer, but it is open all year round. BELLEVUE BEACH Strandvejen 340, Hellerup; free adm; bellevuestrandbad.dk If you have a little more time and want to experience a bit of suburbia, then Klampenborg’s Bellevue Beach – about 10km from downtown Copenhagen – is the place to head to. The beach has several piers to jump from as well as watchful lifeguards and freshwater showers. Whilst you’re there, pay a quick visit to Bellevue Theatre –
designed by Arne Jacobsen – or to the world’s oldest operating amusement park, Bakken. BAVNEHØJ FRILUFTSBAD Enghavevej 90, Cph SV; open daily 07:00-20:00; free adm From its 12 online reviews, it’s all fours and fives for this public swimming pool, which on hot summer days is all packed as local Copenhageners flock to it to cool off. The large paddling area and 25-metre pool, which has cordoned-off lanes for serious swimmers, are situated next to a large grassy area with climbing frames for children and volleyball, which make it the ideal spot to picnic and laze around.
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TH E CO P E N H AG E N P OST TOURISM MAGA Z INE • AUG UST/ SE PTE M BER 2019
Publisher: CPH POST Editor: Hans Hermansen, Magazine designer: Copenhagen Post , Info: hans@cphpost.dk Tel: +45 2420 2411 T HE CO PEN H AG E N P O ST TO U R I S M M AGAZ INE • AUG UST/ SE PTE M BE R 2 0 1 9
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PERFORMANCE HAMLET LIVE ongoing, ends Aug 31; Kronborg Castle, Helsingør; 145kr, under-18s free adm; kongeligeslotte.dk Kronborg Castle’s immersive theatre production ‘Hamlet Live’ is back for a fourth successive year following popular and acclaimed performances since its debut in 2016. Visitors can walk through the castle and experience scenes played out in the actual places Shakespeare imagined them happening. COPENHAGEN OPERA FESTIVAL ongoing, ends Aug 10; various venues; operafestival.dk The Copenhagen Opera Festival strives to find new spaces for the genre, inhabiting the urban landscape, spreading world-class arias across the streets, canals, transport routes and buildings of the city. And once again the organisers have put together a line-up consisting of both established and new opera acts. COPENHAGEN SUMMER FESTIVAL ongoing, ends Aug 8; Charlottenborg Festsal, Kongens Nytorv, Cph K; copenhagensummerfestival.dk For 12 days gifted national and international musicians will perform classical and modern compositions at the Copenhagen Summer Festival. The festival brings together award-winning composers and musicians along with the most exciting young talents on the classical scene today. It is free admission on August 8. ALVIN AILEY AMERICAN DANCE THEATER Aug 28-Sep1; Tivoli Concert Hall, Cph K; 375-675kr; tivoli.dk Since its foundation in 1958, this esteemed New York dance company has become a regular at Tivoli, mostly visiting biennially. Promising new creations never previously performed in Denmark, the young African-American modern dancers relish performing. Come and find out why their popularity continues to endure. PIERROT’S MISFORTUNES ongoing, ends Aug 6; Tivoli, Cph K; adm with entry to Tivoli; tivoli.dk Pierrot steals the show with his inept service to Cassander’s household, rendering poor Harlequin’s wooing of his beloved Columbine, which is strictly against his father’s wishes, as a sideshow. HARLEQUIN THE COOK ongoing, ends Aug 31; Tivoli, Cph K; adm with entry to Tivoli; tivoli.dk What is Harlequin the suitor cooking up in order to marry his sweetheart Columbine? Cassander, her father, unknowingly takes Harlequin on as a chef, but his faithful servant Pierrot exposes the lover, leaving him to resort to magic to win the day. THE STEADFAST TIN SOLDIER ongoing, ends Aug 18; Tivoli, Cph K; adm with entry to Tivoli; tivoli.dk Tivoli’s fifth Hans Christian Andersen fairy-tale ballet, ‘The Steadfast Tin Soldier’, is the story of a one-legged tin soldier who loves a ballerina on the musical box next door. Immersed in a world of fantasy and adventure, audience members are sure to fall in love with this ballet.
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RICHARD III
AN EVENING OF BOURNONVILLE Aug 15-Sep 18; Tivoli, Cph K; adm with entry to Tivoli; tivoli.dk Each performance at the Pantomime Theatre features excerpts taken from three of August Bournonville’s choreographed works: a choice of Le Conservatoire, From Siberia to Moscow, Genzano and Napoli. TABLEAUS IN MOTION ongoing, ends Aug 13; Tivoli, Cph K; adm with entry to Tivoli; tivoli.dk A curveball choice for Tivoli given its melancholic mood? Kristian Lever has been given licence to experiment as he reflects on everyday relations, challenging the audience to reflect on their own. HARLEQUIN THE MECHANICAL STATUE ongoing, ends Sep 20; Tivoli, Cph K; adm with entry to Tivoli; tivoli.dk Harlequin and his sweetheart Columbine have hatched a plan to fool her father into opening the door for their romance to blossom. But will his blundering servant Pierrot throw a spanner in the works? FINDING TOMORROW IN YESTERDAY ongoing, ends Sep 20; Tivoli, Cph K; adm with entry to Tivoli; tivoli.dk A new ballet celebrating the best of Danish design that has nothing to do with the Beatles. CASSANDER’S MARRIAGE BUREAU ongoing, ends Sep 22; Tivoli, Cph K; adm with entry to Tivoli; tivoli.dk Harlequin has gone to the dark side in order to obtain the hand of his sweetheart Columbine in marriage. He promises their first child to a woodland troll and then bids to rescue his son with the help of a good fairy. Meanwhile, Columbine’s father Cassander has entered the matchmaking business. HARLEQUIN SKELETON ongoing, ends Sep 21; Tivoli, Cph K; adm with entry to Tivoli; tivoli.dk Harlequin fakes his own death to win his bride whilst fooling her father Cassander and his clumsy servant Pierrot. But Columbine’s papa is packing a revolver, so Harlequin had better keep his wits about him. TIVOLI SUMMER CLASSIC ongoing, ends Sep 2; Tivoli, Cph K; tivoli.dk Tivoli will this summer welcome a huge variety of classical music into its gardens. Among the star attractions are the West-Eastern Divan Orchestra and the Russian National Orchestra. COPENHAGEN SUMMER DANCE Aug 9-11, 16:30 & 20:30; Ofelia Plads, Cph K; 90kr; teaterbilleter.dk Copenhagen will once again welcome ‘world-class contemporary dance’ this August. Among the choreographers displaying their work are Ioannis Mandafounis (Greece), Roy Assaf (Israel) and Pietro Marullo (Italy).
RICHARD III Aug 1-23, 20:00; Kronborg Castle; 240-510kr; hamletscenen.dk HamletScenen’s main production this year is Shakespeare’s darkest tale, or at least of his histories. Director Lars Romann Engel will once again helm the English-language production, which in previous years has been known to continue valiantly in torrential rain with seagulls squawking overhead before a backdrop of the castle made famous by ‘Hamlet’. Some big names have performed at Kronborg Castle and filling the king’s shoes on this occasion is Danish actor Casper Crump. Mike Sheridan is again supplying the music – atmospheric audio to perfectly suit the location and mood. A MIDSUMMER NIGHT’S DREAM Aug 22, 14:00 & 18:00; Rosenborg Castle gardens, Cph K; 100-215kr; adg-europe.coms Enjoy more Shakespeare-in-a-castle when a Munich-based troupe, the American Drama Group Europe, performs ‘A Midsummer Night’s Dream’ in the grounds of Rosenborg Slot. It’s a pit-stop on their annual Castle Tour of theatrical performances at stunning settings across Europe. METROPOLIS FESTIVAL ongoing, ends Sep 30; all over Cph; free adm; metropolis.dk If you happen to stumble across a happening this summer – usually a work of performance dance and art in a street setting – you’re most probably encountering Metropolis, a biennial festival, which this year has expanded massively to span May until September. Among the highlights worth seeking out are Compagnie XY’s daring acrobatics by the high-rises in Bellahøj (Aug 20-25). OPEN AIR MARIONETTE THEATRE ongoing, ends Aug 18, twice daily, times vary, not Mon; Kongens Have, Cph K; marionetteatret.dk This small theatre in King’s Garden hosts puppet shows throughout the summer. This year’s choice is a classic HC Andersen tale. Check the website for details. SONGS OF LEAR Aug 18-19, 15:00; Kronborg Castle; 190-260kr; hamletscenen.dk ; in Polish with Eng/DK subtitles This performance by 14 singers echoing the classic Shakespearean tragedy King Lear, and most particularly his “Blow, winds, and crack your cheeks! rage! blow!” speech on the moors at the advent of his madness, has been hailed as the musical equivalent of Edvard Munch’s ‘The Scream’. CARMEN Sep 14-Feb 15; Operaen, Ekvipagemestervej 10, Cph K; kglteater.dk; 155-945kr; in French with DK subtitles The sultry señorita is back – directly in fact from the Royal Opera House in London! Georges Bizet’s classic opera − full of steamy Spanish passion, eroticism, raucous stage scenes and familiar songs that will have you swaying on your haunches − was first performed in Paris in 1875 and it’s been wowing audiences ever since. THE BARBER OF SEVILLE Sep 21-Nov 21; Operaen, Ekvipagemestervej 10, Cph K; kglteater.dk; 155-945kr; in Italian with DK subtitles Gioachino Rossini’s beloved 1816 opera ‘The Barber of Seville’ is based on the original story that was the prequel to the one that spawned ‘The Marriage of Figaro’. Reumert award-winning director Martin Lyngbo takes inspiration from classic silent movies to create a rich visual experience.
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ART
HOMELESS SOULS
BY LAUREN BEAUCHAMP HOMELESS SOULS ongoing, ends Sep 22; Louisiana Museum, GI Strandvej 13, Humlebaek; louisiana.dk Works from immigrant artists from the likes of Iran, Iraq, Nigeria and Kosova reflect on what it is like trying to make sense of a new home whilst longing for an old one. As well as artworks, there are also screenings and lectures.
MAMELLES ANCESTRALES - DEN FRIE MUSEUM
JOHAN ROHDE: AN ARTIST’S WORKSHOP ongoing, ends Sep 1, Hirschsprung Collection, Stockholmsgade 20, Cph K; hirschsprung.dk Enjoy an artist’s workshop dedicated to one of Denmark’s most important artists, Johan Rohde (1856-1935). It includes sketches, excerpts from letters and paraphernalia. THE ARENA OF THE BODY ongoing, ends Sep 1; Skovvej 100, Ishøj; arken.dk Works by Thilo Frank (1978), Lea Guldditte Hestelund (1983) and Jeppe Hein (1974) transform the landscape into an arena rich in experiences where inquiring souls and sensuous bodies are invited to participate in play and reflection under the open skies.
THE WAY A HARE TRANSFORMS INTO A TORTOISE ongoing, ends Sep 8; Nikolaj Plads 10, Cph K; nikolajkunsthal.dk A display of South Korean artwork to celebrate 60 years of diplomatic relations with the Southeast Asian country. Under the watchful eyes of South Korean curator Inseon Kim, nine artists display their works. MEET THE VIKINGS
THE ARENA OF THE BODY
PIERRE BONNARD: THE COLOUR OF MEMORY ongoing, ends Sep 22; New Carlsberg Glyptotek, Dantes Plads 7, Cph V; glyptoteket.dk The paintings of French artist Pierre Bonnard (18671947) are being displayed for the first time at Glyptotek. Best known for his stylised decorative qualities and bold colour choices, the collection contains more than 100 works. TABITA REZAIRE: MAMELLES ANCESTRALES ongoing, ends Aug 18; Den Frie Museum, Oslo Plads 1, Cph Ø; denfrie.dk Rezaire’s self-described aesthetic is “digital healing activism” − a combination of feminist thinking and technology policy issues. Inspired by prehistoric stone circles, her installations aim to establish a connection between heaven and Earth.
RICHARD MOSSE ongoing, ends Aug 15; Gammel Strand, Gammel Strand 48, Cph K; glstrand.dk The Irish documentary photographer is best known for his war coverage in the Democratic Republic of Congo and his focus on the living conditions of refugees and migrants around the world. I HAVE GROWN TALLER FROM STANDING WITH TREES ongoing, ends Sep 1; Refshalevej 173A; Cph K; cphco.org Taking inspiration from her childhood in the Swiss countryside, Claudia Comte’s first exhibition in Denmark is an interactive installation that merges sculpture, sound and 3D prototyping, inviting you to walk through a forest in decline.
DENMARK’S NEXT CLASSICS ongoing, ends Sep 1; Bredgade 68, Cph K; designmuseum.dk Meet the designers of tomorrow and sample their output: from small movie clips to furniture. MEET THE VIKINGS ongoing, ends Dec; National Museum of Denmark, Ny Vestergade, Cph K; natmus.dk We know who the Vikings were, but do we know what they looked like? Beyond the conquests, the latter half of the Viking Age (800-1050) was a period of embracing Christianity and craftsmanship. The exhibition includes the famous gold Tissø ring and the Fæsted hoard – one of Denmark’s largest treasure troves of gold and silver jewellery.
T HE CO PEN H AG E N P O ST TO U R I S M M AGAZ INE • AUG UST/ SE PTE M BE R 2 0 1 9
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EVENTS
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
SAND SCULPTURE FESTIVAL
COPENHAGEN PRIDE
BY EDWARD OWEN BIG PRESENTS FORMGIVING ongoing, ends Jan 5; Danish Architecture Centre, Bryghuspladsen 10, Cph K; 110kr; dac.dk Take an architectural journey from the beginning of the universe to modern life and into the future. Leading architecture firm BIG’s exhibition invites you to reflect on the human capacity to create the environment we live in: from humble beginnings to a world created by humans. GENTOFTE MARKET Every Sun 07:00-14:00 until Oct 6; Bregnegårdsvej 2, Gentofte Some 3,000 people flock to this market every Sunday in the hope they can nab some Royal Copenhagen porcelain or second-hand designer goods at a fraction of the normal price. Plenty of antiques and vintage pieces make this worth the trip. FRIDAY ROCK AT TIVOLI Every Fri until the end of Sep; Tivoli; prices vary, annual pass: 350kr; fredagsrock.dk Step into the wonderful Tivoli Gardens to enjoy Friday night concerts by some of the biggest names around. Upcoming acts include Tina Dickow, Lauryn Hill and Mø. Get there before 19:00 to save money on entry! SAND SCULPTURE FESTIVAL ongoing, ends Oct 20, 10:00-17:00; Kajgaden 7, Hundested; sandfestival.dk Take a day trip to marvel at giant sculptures created by international artists. Enjoy activities or laze around at the nearby harbour. EXPERIMENTARIUM open daily 09:30-17:00; Tuborg, Havnevej 7, Hellerup; experimentarium.dk Take a trip with your children to a world-class science centre that celebrates curiosity and a playful approach to science. Experimentarium brings science to life through hands-on exploration. THORVALDSEN MARKET Every Fri & Sat until Oct, 08:00-17:00; Thorvaldsen Plads 2, Cph K This treasure trove of antiques and collectables is not very big, but fans of Danish design with a keen eye will certainly be able to seek out some gems here. If not, the setting alone is enough to visit.
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FREDERIKSBERG MARKET Every Sat 09:00-15:00 until Oct 19 (no market Aug 17); Smallegade, Frederiksberg This sprawling market offers everything from clothing and books to furniture and antiques. Located near Frederiksberg’s city hall, it’s the perfect area for a Saturday wander and a great place to grab a bargain.
IMPROV: FOUR SHOWS A WEEK Thu-Sun, check website for details; Improv Comedy Copenhagen, Frederiksholms Kanal 2, Cph K; improvcomedy.eu Friday is Cocktail Night where for just 150 kroner you get a show and a cocktail. Every night has a different team, so check out the website to see what suits your comic taste.
BUBBLES AND OYSTERS Fridays until the end of Aug, 16:00-18:00; Bøf og Ost, Gråbrødretorv 13, Cph K; oysters 10kr, bubbles 50kr; boef-ost.dk Sit outside and relax at the beautiful Gråbrødretorv whilst enjoying this summer classic combination.
STREET FOOD AT THE LAKES (STREET FOOD OM SØERNE) Aug 9-11, Fri 15:00-21:00, Sat 11:00-21:00, Sun 11:0019:00; Peblinge Dossering, Cph N; streetfoodomsoeerne.dk This three-day food festival has a focus on diversity and entrepreneurship. All vendors will offer a tasting dish for just 40 kroner. If you appreciate good food, cold beer and beautiful surroundings, then mark this one in your calendar.
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK Aug 6-9; various venues; copenhagenfashionweek.com Scandinavia’s largest fashion week mainly consists of industry events. But running alongside the runway and trade shows, there are a number of events geared towards fashion-lovers, from free goodie bag promotions to fabulous events on Strøget. STRØM FESTIVAL Aug 7-10; various venues in Cph; stromcph.dk Strøm Festival will once again offer electronic music fans a wide choice of events featuring big names from Denmark and the US at a number of eclectic venues, from nightclubs to churches. Most are free entry. CRAFTS AND DESIGN FAIR Aug 8-10; Frue Plads, Cph K; free adm; dkod.dk This historic crafts and design fair is showing no signs of slowing down. Professionals and amateurs from all over Scandinavia will be there to showcase their wares, including jewellery pieces and graphic design. SILENT DISCO Aug 9, 20:00-02:00; Reffen 209, Refshalevej 209A, Cph K; free adm Enjoy three different kinds of music at the Silent Disco. Sway along all night long. VIKING FESTIVAL Aug 9, 16:00-Aug 10, 22:00; Valbyparken, Cph; tickets from fritid.dk Explore Viking and Nordic metal music along with Viking culture and old Nordic traditions at the Viking Festival.
MALMÖ FESTIVAL Aug 9-16; various locations; malmofestivalen.se If you’re looking for a getaway from Copenhagen life, head across the Øresund to a festival that bridges music, art, food and culture. With over 1.4 million visitors a year, it is the largest culture festival in Scandinavia. DANISH DERBY Aug 11, doors open 12:00; Klampenborg Galopbane, Klampenborgvej 52; 90kr; galopbane.dk Held just north of Copenhagen near the deer park, this Danish classic is a great event for the whole family to attend. COPENHAGEN PRIDE Aug 13-18; various venues; copenhagenpride.dk The largest human rights festival in Denmark is mostly held at Pride Square and Rådhuspladsen, offering a week of free concerts and shows that climaxes in a huge parade on Saturday the 17th. ZULU SOMMERBIO Aug 14-15; Ved Øksnehallen, Halmtorvet 11, Cph V; free adm TV2 Zulu is rolling out the big screen again with its Sommer Bio. Enjoy free admission to open-air cinema on two nights in Vesterbro. First, you’ll be on the edge of your blanket watching the crime-drama ‘Holiday’ – a film co-written by local girl Johanne Algren. Or bring a picnic and enjoy a relaxed summer evening watching the romantic film ‘A Star is Born’.
TH E CO P E N H AG E N P OST TOURISM MAGA Z INE • AUG UST/ SE PTE M BER 2019
EVENTS
GOLDEN DAYS
ZOMBIERUN
COPENHAGEN HARBOUR FESTIVAL
PUB QUIZZES Aug 15 & 29 + Sep 12 & 26, 19:30; The Globe, Nørregade 43, Cph K; 30kr, five per team / Sep 2, 19:30; Kennedy’s, Gammel Kongevej 23, Cph V; 50kr, four per team Don’t miss the quizzes at the Globe and Kennedy’s. The winners get 1,000 kroner at the Globe, and 800 at Kennedy’s. RITA’S BLUE FLEA MARKET Aug 18 & Sep 15, 12:00-17:00; Kulturhuset Indre By, Cph K Sep 1, 12:00-1700; Sønder Boulevard, Cph V; ritablaaslopper.dk Rita’s market attracts a younger crowd searching for vintage and second-hand clothing. Fight your way through the crowds to seek out some of that Scandi style. LOUISIANA LITERATURE Aug 22-25; Gl Strandvej 13, Humlebæk; louisiana.dk Louisiana Lit is returning to celebrate the best in contemporary literature from around the world. Various authors will be positioned around the museum in different settings, taking part in readings, songs and discussions. FRIDAY NIGHT SKATE Aug 23 & Sep 13, 20:00-22:15; free adm; fns-cph.dk A fun way to experience the city on a summer evening, Friday Night Skate will take you on a 20 km route through Copenhagen. It’s a great way to hang out with friends. COPENHAGEN HARBOUR FESTIVAL Aug 23-25; kulturhavn.kk.dk With its long coastline and checkered history at sea, waterborne activities come second nature to the Danes. This festival will shine a light on the best that the city’s harbour areas have to offer with activities, games, music, dancing and water sports galore. FINDERS KEEPERS DESIGN MARKET Aug 24-25; Øksnehallen, Halmtorvet 11, Cph V; finderskeepers.dk This huge indoor market brings together designers and traders in one place with an emphasis on design. The vendors are carefully selected by a panel of experts. It’s a great place to find furniture, jewellery, photography and more.
COPENHAGEN COOKING Aug 28-Sep 1; Israels Plads, Cph K ; copenhagencooking.dk Definitely one for the foodies, this festival includes hundreds of events, classes and tours – you could say it has an emphasis on learning as you eat. Book your tickets now to avoid disappointment. COPENHAGEN SONGWRITERS FESTIVAL Aug 29-Sep 1; Onkel Dannys Plads, Cph V; csf.dk Celebrating its 11th anniversary, this festival focuses on the craft of songwriting, both in Denmark and abroad. Cited as Denmark’s ‘most hyggelig event’, this one is for music lovers looking for something different. COPENHAGEN SOUL WEEKENDER Aug 29-Sep 1; various locations; check Facebook for tickets (two free events; two cost 90kr) Copenhagen is treated to an international line-up of gifted DJs playing their best and most soulful original vinyl late into the night. KARRUSEL ELECTRONIC MUSIC FESTIVAL Aug 30-31; Refshalevej 185, Cph K; 1 day: 250kr, 2 days: 350kr Tried and tested in Odense, this Distortion’s house and techno festival is moving to Refshaleøen. While German DJ Dixon is among the headliners, the event’s main focus is showcasing new Danish talent on the scene. Two days, two stages and a themepark carousel – this open-air festival is your archetypal rave. CARS‘N’COFFEE Sep 1 & 29, 10:00-12:00; Lundtoftegårdsvej 10, Lyngby, Cph; free adm; formulaauto.dk Just as it says on the tin. Formula automobile, a Ferrari and Maserati dealer, opens its doors to those with a common passion for cars. Bring an exciting car, or come as a spectator – register via Facebook. GOLDEN DAYS Sep 6-22; multiple venues in CPH; goldendays.dk The Golden Days festival takes us on a historical journey. This year it is 30 years since the fall of the Berlin Wall. Golden Days will zoom in on 1989, communicating the culture, history and knowledge of an event that changed the world.
TECH FESTIVAL Sep 5-7, 08:00-23:30; Kødbyen, Slagtehusgade 10; tickets 40 euros (approx 300kr); techfestival.co Tech Festival is the place where humans and technology meet. Includes talks, workshops, installations and, of course, drinks. COPENHAGEN WORLD MUSIC FESTIVAL Sep 5-8; multiple locations; tickets available from locations; cphworld.dk The Copenhagen World Music Festival is back with a stellar line-up of world music at locations all over the city. PORT WINE POP-UP Sep 14, 16:00-19:00 & 19:00-22:00; Halmtorvet 9, Cph V; 299kr for 30 drink tokens; drikportvin.dk Select from more than 80 different bottles of port wine to tease your taste buds, including a number of unique bottles. If you book in advance you can also enjoy tapas-style cheeses, meats and breads with dips. COPENHAGEN HALF MARATHON Sep 15, 11:15; Øster Alle, Cph K; 485kr, register to run at cphhalf.dk Awarded by the IAAF with a Road Race Gold Label in 2017, this is simply one of the finest half marathons around – and also the quickest. There’s still time to get fit for this one, so register soon to avoid disappointment. Alternatively, come along and support the runners, from the elite to the newcomers. COPENHAGEN OKTOBERFEST Sep 19-21 & 27-28; Femøren, Amagerstrand; seat and drink packages from 200kr, free adm; oktoberfestdk.dk This is the tenth year for Copenhagen’s Oktoberfest – it’s becoming a tradition of its own. Traditional music and of course German bratwurst. With TV2 Lorry visiting, you’ll want to be wearing your best lederhosen and dirndl as you wash down litres of cold German beer. Prost! ZOMBIERUN Sep 22, 11:00-18:00; Rendsagervej 5, Vallensbæk Mose; 250-400kr; zombielobet.dk Are you a runner or a zombie? The Zombierun gives both children and adults the opportunity for a unique cross country-run. In between safety zones runners must try and avoid the wandering zombies looking for a feast. Braaaaains!
T HE CO PEN H AG E N P O ST TO U R I S M M AGAZ INE • AUG UST/ SE PTE M BE R 2 0 1 9
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BAR REVIEW
COPENHAGEN’S TIMLESS COCKTAIL LOUNGE
BRØNNUM
August Bournonvilles Passage 1, Cph K; open daily 11:00-02:00; lunch served 11:00-15:30; cocktails 120-160kr, non-alcoholic cocktails 70kr; bronnumcph.dk BY EMILE YOUNG Behind the heavy doors of Brønnum, time stands still. Ranked as Europe’s 14th best cocktail bar by travel site Big 7 Media, we had to see what the hype was about. Brønnum is located by Kongens Nytorv and is quintessentially Danish in its understatement. Though its location has also been home to either a bar or a cafe almost continuously for the past 255 years, Brønnum isn’t weighed down by its history. Instead, the cocktail lounge incorporates historical pieces into an inviting, modern setting. As my friend Tristan and I walked in, we felt like we were stepping into a friend’s living room – a slightly upscale friend’s.
POSH BUT INVITING We were led from the bar counter seating in the entryway through a warm chandelier-lit room buzzing with low laughter to a secluded section in the back lined with velvety couches and poufs. A glass door to our side led into a lit courtyard. For a bar that is so luxurious, Brønnum manages to be warm and comfortable. The bar is arranged to facilitate small conversations, with each booth partially sectioned off from neighbouring booths. Tristan pointed at the wall behind me and laughed. A painted Jimi Hendrix gazed soulfully over our heads. Before the evening, we’d exchanged a flurry of texts: what’s the dress code, is there a dress code? Leaning back amidst the Belle Époque and Art Deco vibe of the place, we were glad we’d decided on semi-formal cocktail attire.
STORIES FROM THE PAST The staff who occasionally checked on us were extremely professional and down-to-earth. Showing us around the premises, Grégoire, our waiter, told us stories from the bar’s past.
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“This place is a former opera house. Sometimes, customers in their 50s would tell me: ‘I met my wife here 20 years ago.’ The back bar used to be a place where couples would sneak off to, but now it’s a place you can reserve for parties. Or, we also open it up on busy weekend evenings,” Grégoire revealed.
TASTING THE CLASSICS In April, Brønnum debuted its spring cocktail menu, and we were lucky enough to sample it. We started with variations on two classic drinks: the CPR Margarita and the Clover Club Sour. Both were very simple yet elegant in their presentation. The margarita has a small pop of pineapple, but the flavour doesn’t overpower the lime or tequila. The drink ends on a light jalapeño aftertaste, which gives the classic drink a slight sparkle. The sour, on the other hand, starts sweet, followed by sour, and ends on a bittersweet note. “It’s a rainbow of the whole palate but with a nostalgic sweetness,” observed Tristan.
MIXING IT UP Our second drinks, the Matcha Mint Julep and Just Dill With It, were more daring. The julep is refreshing but with a strong kick thanks to a velvety taste of bourbon and the slight bitterness of matcha, a traditional Japanese ceremonial green tea. On the other hand, I was surprised by the Just Dill With It. This drink has an amazing pop of dill in a sweet and sour drink that is held down by tart gin mixed with a subtle lambic beer base.
A SMOOTH FINISH The star of the night was our final drink, the Naughty Alexander. A dessert cocktail, the Alexander is strong with hints of bourbon and rum without being too creamy or sweet. When paired with a dried apricot bite, the tang of the snack pops the drink’s sweetness and balances its overall smoothness. As we wandered back out onto the streets once more, we realised the hours had just flown by at Brønnum. If you’re looking for a short retreat from the fast pace of Copenhagen life, swing by for a drink or two in this timeless bar.
TH E CO P E N H AG E N P OST TOURISM MAGA Z INE • AUG UST/ SE PTE M BER 2019
FOOD REVIEWS
BRUNCH
RESTAURANT BAR
MAHALLE Birkegade 6, Cph N; open Mon-Sun 10:0018:00; dishes 25-115kr Nestled in Nørrebro, this Lebanese restaurant has a charming white tile interior that is dwarfed by the quality of its food. Mahale’s Sunday brunches include some of the best hummus I have ever tried. A pool of saffron olive oil interrupted by juicy pomegranate seeds sitting in the middle of the dip waits eagerly to be disrupted by freshly-baked pitas and sliced vegetables. The hummus is accompanied by a vibrant citrus salad with sweet pomegranate seeds, fresh mint and crumbled walnuts. The roasted meats are also a great choice. Kebabs and the beef and lamb selection provide a great lunch for someone looking for an easy meal. (AC)
HOOKED Halmtorvet 34, Cph V (second location at Nørrebrogade 59, Cph N); open daily 12:0022:00; appetisers 40-45kr, mains 100-160kr, including fish & chips 100kr, specials include whole lobster with fries for 245kr; gethooked.dk If you are craving great fish and chips in Copenhagen, there is good news for you: a second Hooked location opened this January in Vesterbro following the success of its establishment at Nørrebrogade 59. Hooked walks the line between a sit-down dining experience and fast food joint. Its signature dish came with an unexpected twist: the soft, buttery breaded pollock had just a hint of curry and cumin. Meanwhile, the truffle mayo dip, which deliciously complements the vinegar-infused chips and fried seafood, did its best to steal the show. (EY)
RESTAURANT
GASOLINE GRILL Landgreven 10, Cph K & Vesterport Station, Platform 1 & 2; open daily from 11:00; burgers from 75kr; gasolinegrill.com Voted the best burger joint on AOK’s ‘Byens Bedste’ list, and included in Bloomberg’s world’s best selection, the debate surrounding the best burger in Copenhagen may finally be over. Located in an old gas station, Gasoline Grill’s special take on the burger has generated long lines and a dedicated following. Its burgers sit somewhere in the middle of the homemade-gourmet spectrum, but they have that little something that gives them an edge over the competitors. While the truffle-infused fried are to die for. The food, which is moderately priced, is served until they run out, so make sure you get there early! (OR)
RESTAURANT
RESTAURANT MANGAL Flæsketorvet 50, Cph V; open Tue-Fri from 17:00, Sat-Sun from 10:00, until 24:00 FriSat; mains 150kr; restaurantmangal.com A restaurant serving Turkish street food alongside cocktails in the Meatpacking District – I couldn’t wait to try it out! Modern and sleek inside, with comfortable seating on different levels and an open kitchen, Mangal has left its street food origins well behind. The menu consists of traditional charcoal grilled plates and refined dishes like the fish and artichoke stew. Start with the hummus – the smoothest I’ve had – and spicy sausage, and finish with the rice pudding. Don’t skimp on the cocktails; with names like ‘Sleepless in Istanbul’, they pack a punch to perfectly round off the evening at this sleek, modern restaurant. (TW)
T HE CO PEN H AG E N P O ST TO U R I S M M AGAZ INE • AUG UST/ SE PTE M BE R 2 0 1 9
BRUNCH
KALASET Vendersgade 16, Cph K; open Mon-Thu 09:0024:00, Fri-Sat 09:00-02:00, Sun 09:00-23:00; weekend brunch options 85-135kr; kalaset.dk Kalaset was busy on the day of our visit – a sign it is doing something right! Their menu is varied, from traditional Danish to more American-style pancakes, and we opted for the large brunch selection plates. They arrivedwithalmostmorefoodthanIcouldmanage (but not quite) and the sheer selection of what was presented to me meant I did not have ordering envy. Reasonably priced for brunch considering how much food you get but difficult to get a table. The wait staff are very friendly and aware of people waiting and the turnover time means you only stand staring at the food going by for a little while. (KW)
RESTAURANT
SOULS Melchiors Plads 3, Cph Ø; open Mon-Wed 10:00-21:30, Thu-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 09:00-20:30 mains from 118kr; soulscph.dk There is certainly no shortage of vegan/ vegetarian options within the Copenhagen area – however, this restaurant undeniably deserves a special mention. Souls, founded by two Australians and Danish chef Neel Engholm, delivers the highest quality ingredients, offering health-conscious diner feel-good recipes that are ethically-sourced. Vegan versions of familiar recipes do not simply try to compensate for missing ingredients, rather they form their own flavours and combinations in options such as the Viking salad and Souls burger (a must try). (PS) 19
CAFE REVIEW
BREAD, SKYR AND BITES: VEGGIE’S DELIGHT
CAFE FEEL GOOD
Nørre Farimagsgade 55, Cph K; open MonFri 10:00-19:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-17:00; brunch options 149kr; instagram.com/feelgood_cafe, facebook.com/cafefeelgood BY ARUSHI RAJPUT Located at the junction between Vendersgade and Nørre Farimagsgade, Café Feel Good has a nature-themed decor with a modern touch, which is reflected in its home-made menu options. In short, it is a vegetarian’s delight.
BIG APPLE IS CALLING At a time when everyone is leaning towards being natural, using organic products and employing greener ways to do things, the culinary world is now fully on board with the trend, but Denmark took its time getting up to speed.
POWERHOUSE BOOSTERS “Denmark’s food scene did not offer enough healthy menu options – and even when it did, it didn’t have the element of taste,” recalls cafe owner Gabriel about how the idea of starting an organic cafe in 2016 was conceived. Since its opening, Café Feel Good has generated rave reviews, and it has already received offers to take its concept to two of the world’s most famous gastronomic cities: New York and London.
We settled in a cosy corner and after careful contemplation ordered some drinks: a oneof-a-kind golden latte and a freshly-squeezed immune booster. Don’t be mistaken, the latte is not just any coffee, but a golden emulsion of your grandmother’s suggested healthiest ingredients: turmeric, cinnamon, black pepper, coconut oil, honey and oat milk. This delicious drink has healing properties and is beneficial for the heart, mind and body.
“We top it with varying fruit and ingredients every day,” the cafe waitress explained.
The juice, meanwhile, is a powerhouse made by blending ginger, beetroot, carrot and apple.
Among the other options you should try are the salad bowls – which are filled with ingredients such as chickpeas, pomegranate, mint, mango dressing and much more – and the berries and granola drizzled in mango pureé.
ALL-TIME GREAT PANCAKES
And their homespun spicy hummus is a must as well.
We were then served the special ‘feel good’ brunch: an expansive platter of choices laid out for our taste buds to indulge in: pumpkin seeds, sprouts, pesto filled avocado, hummus, organic bread and exotic fruits. The Greek yogurt with pureéd mango and sprinkled granola was a delight to eat – as was the dark chocolate mousse.
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99 kroner, the hearty plate of banana-blueberry and turmeric-stuffed pancakes is not to be missed. These caramel-slathered pancakes were dotted with colourful fruit and tiny flowers set on top. It was indeed, just as the menu described it, “full of surprises”.
FOOD FOR THE SENSES Taste and presentation apart, the ambience of the place is also worthy of a high ranking.
While we pigged out on these organic delights, the best course was still to come.
The name of the cafe isn’t just a random choice, but a deeply ingrained motto to help the customers feel good by appealing to all five of their senses with the aesthetics, tastes and aroma of every meal.
In a nutshell, this is the reason why I’d go back to Café Feel Good come rain or snow. Priced at
Rightly so, the owner of the cafe describes it as being “food for all the senses”.
TH E CO P E N H AG E N P OST TOURISM MAGA Z INE • AUG UST/ SE PTE M BER 2019
CAFE REVIEW
YOU’RE ALWAYS WELCOME NEXT DOOR
NEXT DOOR CAFÉ
Larsbjørnsstræde 23, Cph K; open Mon-Fri 07:0018:00, Sat-Sun 09:00-18:00; coffee from 30kr; nextdoorcafe.dk EDWARD OWEN Opening early every day of the week, this interesting café dishes up a classic breakfast – pancakes, bacon ‘n’ eggs – as well as the other cornerstones of a good start to the day, such as muesli, porridge, fruit and yoghurt. There’s also a number of fresh superjuices available if you feel the need for a health kick. As well as breakfast, salads and sandwiches are on offer. I arrived in the afternoon and enjoyed a deliciously-fresh tuna sandwich, along with a tasty Americano with a pleasant fruity edge. It’s a conventional choice of drinks, but you won’t be penalised for that extra shot of coffee or a personal preference here and there. Everything is homemade, and there’s also plenty of choice for those with a sweet tooth. The one
exception to the homemade rule is the croissants – although they’re provided by a French associate, for that certain ‘je ne sais quoi’.
colour scheme that provides uniformity – ultimately it’s a nice place to sit, inside or out.
THROUGH THE KEYHOLE
According to the owner, Skyler, the location was crucial to the concept of creating a place where people are just nice to one another. It’s a vibrant and diverse neighbourhood, and when the space became available in 2012, it was the right place at the right time. And so, while the bar may be constructed from old wooden doors, this is a place built on good vibes and mutual respect.
The decor is interesting and slightly quirky. As you step down into the café, you arrive at the bar and a shrine ... a shrine to ... well … just about whatever you want. Solid old doors have been skillfully crafted to make the bar and tables, and it’s a nice touch. Elsewhere I’m pretty sure I spotted He-Man’s battlecat ‘Cringer’ being put to good use as a candle holder. Take a seat at any of the glass-top tables and you’ll find all manner of things have been slipped under the glass by guests – thank you notes, drawings, money – and who needs table numbers when you’re handed a shark figurine to help the staff find you? This is Denmark, so no venue would be complete without a series of low-hanging lamps. It sounds like there’s a lot going on, but it’s all brought together nicely by a soothing purple
A FRIENDLY LOCALE
There’s a real sense of community on this little section of Larsbjørnsstræde; as I sit down and have a chat with Skyler, it’s barely been 30 seconds before several passers-by greet him. There are also plenty of bars in the adjoining narrow streets for later in the day. Considering the central location, everything is very reasonably priced, alluding to a common sense approach of doing simple things well, and wanting people to come back. Remember: you’re always welcome next door.
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FOOD REVIEWS
CAFE
JUNO THE BAKERY Arhusgade 48, Cph Ø, closed Mon & Tue, open Wed-Sat 07:30-18:00 & Sun 09:0015:00; pastries: 25kr The moment you turn onto Århusgade you are struck by the nostalgic smell of fresh bread and sweet pastries – an aroma that attracts people to queue up outside every moment of the day. Byens Bedste award winner Juno the Bakery specialises in fresh treats that are sure to get foodies’ mouths watering. It is the perfect place for a coffee and pastry in the morning before a long day out in town. All of their products are organic, including their signature kardemomme snurrer, a fragrant, light pastry that will almost certainly leave you wanting more. As city blogger Purple Foodie said after snaffling the viennoiserie: “Juno the Bakery, you are absolutely incredible.” (RM)
CAFE
DEMOCRATIC COFFEE BAR Krystalgade 15, Cph K, open Mon-Fri 07:3019:00, Sat-Sun 09:00-17:00; coffee and food from 25kr A prime location for students, business people and tourists alike to get top quality morning coffee, breakfast and the best croissants outside of Paris. The bar oozes a love of good coffee and pastries unparalleled around the city. All the pastries are made in-house, and you can tell. Democratic always has great music playing, from jazz to modern hip-hop and everything in between, making it hard to find a better atmosphere to take a break or work around the city. The refreshing feeling is only helped by the tall glass windows flooding the room with natural light from busy Krystalgade. (RM) 22
RESTAURANT
BÆST Guldbergsgade 29, Cph N; open Mon-Wed 17:00-22:00, Thu-Sun 12:00-14:30 & 17:0022:30; pizzas 100-145kr; baest.dk Bæst is a dining experience designed to be shared with friends and family. The sharing platters of charcuterie, homemade cheeses and exceptional unique pizza will bring any crowd together. All the ingredients are locally-sourced – mostly from their own farm 40 km away where their 16 cows produce milk for the variety of hand-stretched cheeses (the stracciatella is a must-try). The pizzas are cooked in a 500-degree wood-fired oven, resulting in a crispy dough. Each pizza has its own unique personality and ingredients, perfect for photos. Pick a variety and share with your friends over an excellent bottle or two of sustainable, organic red wine. (RM)
ICE CREAM
BON BON ICE Andebakkesti 4, Frederiksberg; open MonFri 13:00-21:00, Fri-Sun 12:00-21:00; cones 30kr, coffees 28-38kr; bonbonice.dk Baby Bear couldn’t decide between the White Coffee Hazelnut, White Chocolate Basil or Belgian Callebaut Choc Stracciatella with Amarena cherries & dark chocolate, so she scoffed the lot. “I’m sorry Jægerspris, it’s not my fault, but this is better,” she said, licking her fingers. Teenager Bear was in agreement – for once. “Sometimes when you eat ice cream you can’t identify the flavour, but here you can really taste it,” she said. And Daddy Bear couldn’t resist the jumbo-sized Belgian waffle served with soft ice. But he hadn’t banked on his little bears transforming into Goldilocks and … we think you know how this ends. (BH)
CAFE
CAFÉ BARYL Århusgade 78, Cph Ø; open 09:00-17:00; brunch plate 119kr, lunch plate 129kr; baryl.dk The original concept behind Café Baryl’s menu was that the food should not only look incredible, but be delectable to taste, and in the ‘morgenbaryl’ (119 kr), they have created a dish guaranteed to send Instagrammers into a frenzy. Taking centre-stage is a bowl of chia or skyr pudding topped with a delicate coconutinfused soy whip and fresh fruit. Sliced avocado layered on rye, pulled hot smoked salmon on crisp bread, a sublime homemade carrot hummus and garnishes of almonds, olives, watercress, orange and pomegranate finish it off. This is a beautifully executed celebration of modern healthy cuisine, which even those sceptical of contemporary food trends will find hard not to enjoy. (DW)
BRUNCH
BOWL MARKET Gasværksvej 3, Cph V; open daily 07:3018:00; risotto: 80kr, porridge 75kr, acai is 80kr; 2482 6090 Monarch among the Instagrammable dishes is the bowl – the neat arrangement of an aesthetically garnished dish seems to hold as much value in social influence as it does physical sustenance. Bowl Market gets this. A look at its Instagram page evidences its understanding: a scrolling catalogue packed with a menagerie of manicured oatmeal, grains, fruits, nuts and healthy-leaning garnishes. We recommend the acai bowl featuring the new superfood from Brazil that everyone’s raving about. It’s like a thick smoothie topped with oatmeal and acai berries that tastes like ice cream. But it’s good for you. (AH)
TH E CO P E N H AG E N P OST TOURISM MAGA Z INE • AUG UST/ SE PTE M BER 2019
BAR REVIEWS
BARS
TIPSY MERMAID Havenegade 50, Cph K; open Mon-Thu 14: 00-22: 00, Fri-Sat 12: 00-24: 00, Sun 12: 00-22: 00; beers 60-65kr Sitting in a boat stirs the imagination, and mine goes into overdrive from the moment I step aboard this wooden hull fishing boat, which is now a floating mecca for connoisseurs of craft beer. Moored in Copenhagen Harbour, the pub on a tub is just around the corner from Nyhavn and a stone’s throw from the city’s busiest cycle bridge. Most bars use music to rock their establishments – but The Tipsy Mermaid doesn’t need a jukebox. Poseidon and his trident, an unmistakable maritime breeze and the occasional squawking seagull are here to ensure the seaborne symphony never stops. (BH) ANCESTRALE Oehlenschlægersgade 12, Cph V; open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00, Fri 12:00-24:00, Sat 13:00-24:00; ancestrale.dk This wine bar on a cosy street in Vesterbro is the creation of two internationally trained sommeliers together with a wine connoisseur trained at Noma. Their winning formula is simple: serve great wines that are easy to drink and appeal to people’s tastes with no sophistication or menu required. The wines are handpicked and based on relationships with vineyards spanning Europe. Their knowledge and expertise are impressive and their recommendations are helpful and satisfying. The wines I sampled were unique, exotic and full of flavour, making it a must visit. (AA) BAR 25 Nikolaj Plads 25, Cph K; open Wed-Thu 16:00-02:00, Fri 15:00-02:00, Sat 16:00-02:00, Tue 16:00-01:00; bar25.dk This attractive bar, located on a square outside a converted church, provides the perfect setting for a fun evening of signature cocktails, which are created with precision using only premium, fresh ingredients. Seasonal drinks such as the ‘Basilberry’ made with Bulldog gin, strawberry puree and balsamic cream are featured on the menu alongside twists on classics such as the ‘Hemingway Daquiri’ made with mulata, luxardo, pink grapefruit juice, lime and sugar. Guests can get creative by requesting a tailored cocktail based on preferred flavours and ingredients. (PS) T HE CO PEN H AG E N P O ST TO U R I S M M AGAZ INE • AUG UST/ SE PTE M BE R 2 0 1 9
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CRAZY CHRISTMAS 2019
GLASSALEN, TIVOLI 12. NOV 2019 - 11. JAN 2020
TICKETS: 3315 1001
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TEATERBILLETTER.DK
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BILLETLUGEN.DK
IT’S FUN FOR ALL - AND ALL FOR FUN IT’S THE THREE BREXITEERS 24
TH E CO P E N H AG E N P OST TOURISM MAGA Z INE • AUG UST/ SE PTE M BER 2019