MIDDLE EAST - 2019
ISSUE N°1
#thecreamlab.me
PASTRY ESSENTIAL
SWEETS FORECAST
Top chefs share their unique recipe
What’s trending in 2020
WHITE GOLD
(R)EVOLUTION
Why dairy cream makes a difference
Women in pastry
Hind Al Mulla
Ida Martin
Nina Métayer
Aaliya Randeree
Najla Shamiri
Liz Stevenson
WOMEN IN PASTRY
Rise to the top with French Cream
We are all chefs, but I am supposed to be something else, too. I am expected to be a champion on the gender cause on top of that. Don't get me wrong: I want to help pave the way to make things better for female chefs in our industry — and for all chefs in general — but I worry that I will always be seen as a female chef first and a chef second. It's a corner I am forever stuck in. Dominique Crenn First woman triple-starred by the Michelin guide
The content of this magazine represents the author’s point of view only and are the sole responsibility of the author. The European Commission is not responsible for any use that may be made from the information contained herein.
Cream Chapter
Women are having a resurgence. In kitchens. In the professional world. In pastry.
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Edito
EDITO
Rise to the top with french cream Across the GCC and beyond, women can be found creating, developing, consulting, and running successful culinary businesses. From a Los Angeles Times article earlier this year entitled, “Yes, pastry chefs are real chefs and women are leading the baking revolution”, to the 2019 World’s Best Pastry Chef award honoring Jessica Préalpato, women are a force in restaurants across the world.
And, at the genesis of every
CNIEL - the French Dairy Board,
recipe, no matter the level
gathered several talented female
or talent of the chef, is the
chefs together for a dialogue on
choice of what ingredients to include. In the creation of
pastry, career, advice, and the state of the industry.
pastry, several core ingredients form a foundation: butter, dairy, eggs, flour. When using dairy products, no other product can match the versatile qualities of European cream. Used by the best chefs to enhance recipes and bring out the best flavours in their pastry, French cream is a staple product in kitchens. Chef Préalpato advises, “Choose the right product at the right time, take the time to taste it, and sublimate it.” Préalpato and most pastry chefs around the world place French products center stage in their pastry dishes. Their creative process involves searching for ways to ‘sublimate’ an ingredient, to present it on the plate in a higher form than how it arrived in the kitchen. High-quality fresh & natural ingredients carefully sourced are at the heart of their work.
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Chefs were tasked with including luxurious French cream an indulgent and multipurpose ingredient, that they will have worked and flavored, into an exclusive pastry of their creation. Plating for each of the dishes was stunning, and dairy cream was integrated into these pastries in many creative ways. The globally inspired dishes ranged from an authentically Emirati dessert to pavlova to iced yogurt. Final touches of roseinfused whipped cream and vanilla tonka chantilly helped elevate plates even further. What else do these chefs have in common? Read more to find out more about these amazing women — their backgrounds, their favorite recipes, their advice, and how they came to be the successful pastry chefs they are today.
Cream Chapter
Women in Pastry - The (R)evolution p.6
Cream - The essential ingredient p.8
Trending Pastry 2020 p.10
Chefs Portraits Aaliya Randeree Pastry Chef and founder of Butterworks Bakery p.12
Liz Stevenson Pastry consultant p.16
Hind Al Mulla Pastry Chef and founder of Home Bakery p.20
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Summary
Recipes Dark Chocolate and Walnut Pavlova Aaliya Randeree p.37
Dark chocolate mousse & black sesame praline with iced yoghurt & caramel
Nina MĂŠtayer
Liz Stevenson
Pastry consultant and pastry
p.38
Chef of the year 2016 p.24
Najla Shamiri Pastry consultant p.28
Ida Martin Head pastry Chef of Queen Elizabeth II p.32
Authentically Emirati Hind Al Mulla p.39
Creamy, tangy grapefruit meringue Nina MĂŠtayer p.41
Sticky dates cake with salted caramel and infused Arabic coffee cream Najla Shamiri p.42
Chocolate and orange entremet, pistachio whipped ganache Ida Martin p.42
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Cream Chapter
Women in Pastry The (R)evolution For two days, six chefs with varying experience sat around a table to discuss about what is it to be a woman in Pastry. Their thoughts are exclusively revealed for the first edition of Cream Chapter.
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The (R)evolution
What brings people together?
Being a woman in pastry
Is it possible to introduce a group with only one thing
is not always simple
in
common,
and
have
the
individuals speak for hours? On the topic of pastry, with a selection of successful women, the conversation ranged from using the best ingredients to experiences of all kinds in the kitchen. While perhaps there is some antiquated notion that women do not deserve a place in today’s modern kitchen, or are somehow not as capable, the collected group have proven they are more than confident in leading teams, winning awards, and starting thriving businesses. They are passionate, professional, creative, and dedicated to the craft of pastry. During
the
discussion,
the
dialogue first centered on the chefs’ respective journeys in the culinary arts. Overall, the group was split on when they wanted to become involved with pastry. Some of the women started in completely different fields (animation, fine arts, nutrition), and, even if working in a kitchen, the beginning of their careers wasn’t necessarily in pastry. The remainder gathered experience in kitchens and restaurants around the world. Perhaps surprisingly, formal pastry training was something not necessary for all of the chefs.
but it’s worth the struggle The group had to work hard, perhaps harder than their male counterparts, to obtain the positions they are in today. In their experience, the women all had to overcome adversity and sexism in the kitchen. Be it from detrimental, antagonistic, or misogynist situations, the group heard ‘no’ just as many times as they heard ‘yes.’
A bright future for women in pastry When discussing the pressure to be present on social media, each of the chefs admitted to having accounts on popular platforms. As busy as most of them are, the commitment to consistently post can be a bit of a hassle, but a necessary one. One of the chefs mentioned that her business grew considerably by
using
social
media
to
highlight her products.
And yet, they persevered. As of today, all of the women are leaders in some capacity, and many of them work outside of their kitchens as culinary consultants to well-recognized institutions. When it came to advise the next generation of chefs, each of the women had nearly identical recommendations. The suggestion to keep going, to understand the realities of what the industry will throw at any person starting out, was repeated again and again. The women recognized that the work would be difficult, and there would be sacrifices, but the payoff could be amazing. The road to becoming a successful pastry chef is not an easy one, but by supporting others in the kitchen, the journey can be made easier.
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When asked how they wanted their careers to progress, the answers were not of writing cookbooks, appearing on television shows, or winning awards. The collected chefs were mainly interested in opening individual shops, continuing to consult, and providing training to home cooks or others starting their careers.
Cream Chapter
Cream The essential ingredient
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The essential ingredient A unique flavor enhancer
dairy products are available to both professionals and home chefs throughout the GCC.
In pastry and other branches of the culinary arts, there is no denying that cream is an essential ingredient. As a cooking element, it adds an
When it was revealed what ingredient they
incredible depth of flavor.
Cream is one of
was more than ready to take on the challenge of
the most versatile dairy products, as it gives
incorporating Dairy cream into a completely new
substance to all preparations. In the kitchen, chefs and home cooks can infuse cream with
recipe. The resulting desserts were as diverse as the chefs themselves.
would hero in their dishes, each of the women
herbs and spices to create an exquisitely flavored ganache or add other delicious components to dishes.
In its liquid form, cream provides
silkiness and incomparable glossiness to pastry of all kinds. Furthermore, cream lends a unique smoothness to custard and ice cream, where it is sweetened and flavored. Although cream can be sourced from many countries, French cream has an unparalleled melt in the mouth quality, and its softness on the palate is uniquely soothing and comforting. No substitute to Dairy Cream Perhaps most importantly for the ingredient, France has strict standards around the content of fat in its cream products. Educated chefs around the world understand that the consistent inclusion of 35% fat is essential to creating the ideal cooking cream, whipping cream, and other products. This cream includes both a low reduction rate and fast cooking time, which helps to retain all of the flavours and nutritional properties of the dishes. Furthermore, many European farmers are focused on sustainable dairy production. With educated chefs and diners, people are more interested than ever on how their food is made.
It is apparent that each of the talented chefs, who contributed to this first edition of Cream Chapter, was easily able to work with such a multipurpose product and included French cream using a variety of techniques and talents. Furthermore, no matter the level of cook or chef, anyone can incorporate French cream to a range of dishes in the kitchen, from savoury to sweet.
As part of the discussion of favored ingredients, the collected chefs were particular about many things, extending to the products they use in their kitchens. Unfortunately, for many chefs in the UAE, not all of the products are available that food professionals might want for their recipes. And yet, when it comes to pastry, there can be no substitutes. Fortunately, European cream and many other recognizable high-quality French
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Cream Chapter
Trending Pastry 2020 If sweets is expected to offer more healthier alternatives, desserts are predicted to be creamy, more traditional but with bolder flavors.
“French pastries return joined by Middle Eastern boozas and kanafehs�
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The essential ingredient
“Educated diners now want to understand where their food comes from” What diners and guests could be looking at in 2020 and beyond ? Although
the
chefs,
who
contributed to this first edition of Cream Chapter, represented different markets and sectors within the culinary arts, there were similar predictions that easily translate to other cities. With the women not only running kitchens but also consulting to multiple restaurants and clients, they are at the forefront of not only what is trending, but in understanding what customers are requesting.
“Guests are looking for more global and modern flavours” Towards more sustainability and products knowledge For the majority of the conversation, multiple chefs spoke about a bias towards sustainability. Not only are kitchens becoming more sustainable and cutting down waste when possible, but guests are also looking for healthier experiences, seeking out restaurants and kitchens where better environmental options are more prevalent. For pastry specifically, this could mean a substitution of ingredients. As diners look for
‘clean’ eating and dishes that reflect their wholesome dietary choices, pastry chefs have to be creative. Educated diners now want to understand where their food comes from and what specifically they are ordering, leading to an overall trend in healthier eating. World food experience are more and more appreciated in the GCC In looking at the entire system of restaurants and dining culture, one of the chefs commented that the global shift might turn away from high-end dining. With the costs of labour and food going up, the model might no longer be sustainable. As the chef suggested, people are looking for more simple and unifying experiences. Additionally, and perhaps specific to the GCC, one chef sees that as much as diners travel in the region and around the world, these guests are looking for more global and modern flavours. Of course, for the chefs, the trend towards healthy eating isn’t always welcomed. At the base of producing pastry for others is a sense of indulgence, and by substituting healthier options, it’s a bit against the code of desserts.
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Between modernity and comfort food Finally, as much as there might be a turn to healthier options, one of the chefs predicted some kitchens trying modern takes on older pastry recipes and an overall return to baking. While chefs are always happy to work around what their customers prefer, comfort desserts prevail and they do like using butter and full cream in their recipes. French pastries return joined by Middle Eastern boozas and kanafehs along with Asian flavors like black sesame, pandan scented desserts. New additions to the picture : infused cream, herbs, salt, or vegetables are now part of the game. What will actually happen in 2020 ? Nothing is for certain, but good pastry will always have its foundation in quality ingredients, such as European dairy Cream.
“Comfort desserts prevail”
Cream Chapter
Aaliya Randeree
Aaliya Randeree is a South African pastry chef trained in the UAE, and in the process of starting her own bakery, Butterworks Bakery.
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Aaliya Randeree Tell us about your journey as a chef.
What advice would you offer to young chefs starting out?
If you were a pastry, what would you be ?
I always knew it was what I wanted to become a baker or
Don’t give up. Don’t let people stand in your way. There will always be someone who will try
A chocolate chip sourdough bread with a banana on top.
pastry chef. However, when it came time to study, my family was a bit conservative and didn’t necessarily approve of a young woman in the kitchen. They didn’t really see the correlation or
think
it
was
entirely
appropriate. And so, I went to study teaching. In my first six months, I failed. I was awful at it, and I didn’t pay attention. Then I said to my family ‘this is not working out and I need to do what I want to do.’ So, I was 19 when I went to culinary school in the UAE and completed my degree, finishing smaller courses in addition to the usual coursework. Then I started at an upscale hotel in Dubai. As with any career, there are good roles, and there are bad roles, and this was, unfortunately, the latter. As a woman and the youngest on the team, instead of the pastry kitchen, he put me on the buffet. I thought I didn’t want to work in the industry again, but then a role opened at another restaurant. I went in for a trial, and the difference was massive. The founder -- a woman -offered a teaching kitchen, and they put a lot of effort into cultivating talent. I needed that sort of environment at that time. From then, after getting married, I am now in the process of starting my own brand, Butterworks Bakery.
and put you down. It’s always worth the struggle -- whether you try and fail, it’s worth the struggle.
“It’s always worth the struggle whether you try and fail, it’s worth the struggle.” What culinary trends do you see for 2020 ? Customers are much more conscious about what they are putting in their bodies. While the trend is towards vegan and gluten-free products, I’ll admit, I don’t really like it. Give me all the butter, all the fat. If you’re going to indulge, indulge! Of course, I do acknowledge the importance of trying to source quality products and ingredients. Of all your recipes, which one are you the most proud of ? My Carda buns - infused dough, brown butter sugar, and cardamom filling. That, and my burnt butter blondies.
Find Aaliya on social media https://www.instagram.com/butterworksbakery/ Find more details about Butterworks Bakery https://butterworksbakery.com/
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Cream Chapter
Dark Chocolate and Walnut Pavlova Focusing on combining lavish flavours, Aaliya Randeree developed a rich walnut and dark chocolate pavlova, finishing the pastry by adding a honey and rose-infused whipped cream.
Find the recipe page 37.
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Aaliya Randeree
15
Cream Chapter Tell us about your journey as a chef. My journey as a chef didn’t
Liz Stevenson
actually begin in the kitchen. I did not start out as a chef, in fact, I began as a vocalist. My degree was in fine arts. After graduating, I struggled to make a living and got jobs in kitchens, and discovered I really enjoyed the work. I was self-taught, and my original focus was on cooking. At the beginning, pastry was too technical and not something I could see myself doing. I moved to London in 2004 and got a job with Gordon Ramsay. I worked in multiple positions -- as a demi chef in the larder, hot section, and on sauce. Finally, I came across pastry. I didn’t understand pastry, but loved the environment, which was methodical and structured. In a similar approach to my studies in the arts, I realized many things were process-based, and pastry had the same approach. I struggled inside the abusive environment of the kitchen, and a job opportunity led me to come to Dubai. I was part of the opening team at The Ivy, where I met Chef Colin Clague, who I would later work with at Rüya. Even with my busy schedule, I also worked in
Liz arrived in Dubai in 2008 and worked for numerous
menu development and helped
prestigious venues in the city such as Jumeirah, Rüya,
create the menu at Taqado, which
and Qbara. During her career, she also worked for the
was in the process of opening
famous French Chef Dominique Ansel Bakery in London.
their first branch. From this sort
Currently, she is consulting on several culinary projects.
of work, I opened a consulting company, which was based out of D3.
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Liz Stevenson After taking some time off to
are labour costs and the cost of
focus on my health, I moved
living. People are searching for
back to London to work in the
a food experience that is simple
evening, there are proposals to review, social media to keep up with, dinner, and bed.
prestigious
and unifying. People want to be
Of all your recipes, which one
bakery for several months. It was
brought
are you the most proud of ?
an excellent learning experience.
the market will correct itself.
Most recently, I’ve worked with
Customers
the Rüya team in Mayfair. As
awareness around local sources
for now, I am continuing my
of food and produce.
consulting
Dominique
work
for
Ansel
with Lindsay of the Tasting Class to develop a training course.
What was the most significant risk you took in your career ? to
Dubai,
have
Eventually,
much
more
multiple
endeavors, as well as connecting
Moving
together.
being
a
come with inherent risks, but the payoffs have also been rewarding.
What advice would you offer to young chefs starting out ?
It took weeks to get the right combination for the wellbalanced pastry I wanted. One of the owners (of Rüya) Rasim
“People are searching for a food experience that is simple and unifying.”
consultant, developing an original concept, and being freelance all
My kunefe, for Ruya in London.
Where can we find the best pastry in Dubai ? At La Petite Maison, by Chef
Özkanca, loves it and he is very difficult to please. I find it a direct compliment that Turkish people are coming in for that specific dish. Recently, in Dubai, I also made chocolate kibbeh, which is really divine. Finally, just the act of developing pastry for Dominique (Ansel) was a great honor. What is your favorite pastry ? A freshly baked croissant.
contributing to the menu, I’m
If you were a pastry, what would you be ?
Be persistent. Yes, you will get
quite proud of what Rise & Dawn
A Valrhona chocolate truffle.
knocked down, but get back up.
at the Sum of Us is currently producing.
Kitchen life is tough, and learning to not take things personally is important.
Consider your
development.
Consider it does
take time to gain experience. Look after yourself, and don’t be so hard on yourself.
What culinary trends do you see for 2020 ? I think we might see an end in high-end dining in the next few years. Think about it -- food is becoming more expensive, as
Rafael. Also, even though I am
What does a typical day look like for you ? My current routine involves waking up early and committing to two minutes of sunshine. I have a quick look at social media, then go to the kitchen to review and taste. As part of the development process, this might take hours. With my involvement with Rüya, I spend some time with the team prior to service. Back at home for the Find Liz on social media https://www.instagram.com/lizstevensonfood/
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Cream Chapter
Dark chocolate mousse & black sesame praline with iced yoghurt & caramel
Liz Stevenson cooled things down a bit, by presenting a dynamic plate composed of a creamy dark chocolate mousse coated in crushed black sesame praline, with white chocolate and yoghurt sorbet, and a salted nut caramel.
Find the recipe page 38.
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Liz Stevenson
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Cream Chapter Tell us about your journey as a chef.
Hind Al Mulla
When I was 10 years old, I remember holding a book and walking inside. I flipped through the book and thought, ‘I want to make something.’ And then when I finished the cake, there was a hole in it ! Actually, it was my mom who taught me how to make my first cake. It was a simple approach, but still amazing. My father loves food, and his appreciation of food is very high. Honestly, I think deep down, he’d like to be a food critic. When we were younger, we traveled to specific restaurants, which helped my brothers and sisters be open-minded towards food, and trying everything. Additionally, I have to mention that my grandmother makes everything from scratch. And her desserts! All from scratch, without cookbooks or recipes. From the beginning, there was a lot of trial and error. Once married and in my own home, I had fun experimenting in the kitchen. I could do whatever I wanted, and that was pastry. As I practiced on my own, I loved making desserts and having family and friends over. It was always a compliment when friends asked if the treats came from anywhere. They were shocked when I told them it was mine, and then they started asking me to make food.
Hind Al Mulla is an Emirati Chef whose passion for cooking started from a young age. The concept of Home Bakery began in her home kitchen in 2011, where she started the idea, and eventually expanded to an actual café in 2014. There are currently multiple locations in the United Arab Emirates, and Hind and her team will be expanding to Saudi Arabia in 2020.
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Hind Al Mulla At the same time, I was developing recipes, there was an unspoken judgment within the community. People didn’t necessarily understand a woman starting a business from home - why does she need to make money ? So, at the very beginning, I kept the launch to just my family. I started a blog that customers could order from, and sure enough, got my
“People didn’t necessarily understand a woman starting a business from home why does she need to make money ?”
So, after resting from the chaos
takes on old pastry recipes, and
of Ramadan, I started on opening Home Bakery. I knocked on
also a return to those who are focusing on baking.
many doors, and had many
What was the biggest risk
shut in her face. No one was taking me seriously. No one thought we could do it. Getting
I’m looking ahead to Saudi. Will people come? In the beginning, it was, let’s open one, then let’s
I got a break. Galleria Mall was opening up. One of their highnesses was a customer and
has been a calculated risk.
said it was fine for me to have the space. Of course, two months before the restaurant opened, we had to close the home business and had some upset customers. Then, in the soft launch, we learned a lot, and people started talking about us. We also had people looking at me (a local) who was working and were shocked. Somehow the word got back to His Highness Sheikh Mohammed, Vice President and Prime Minister of the United
The very first order
was for Abu Dhabi. And I didn’t have a driver. So, I asked my
send a positive message to the community.
mom, who loaned me one of the house drivers. We struggled with deliveries over the first summer
What advice would you offer to young chefs starting out ?
-- there were issues with quality control in the heat. And then I invested in a refrigerated car. However, the commitment led to one of my busiest periods, and my delivery time pushed from a return of the next day to 2, 3, 4 days -- then one week. I don’t like asking people for help.
Each step has been a risk. Now
things registered was a struggle because no one had done this before. Especially a local. Finally,
Arab Emirates, and he came to the restaurant. His presence was meaningful and helped to
first call.
you took in your career ?
Don’t give up. If you believe in your dream, just go for it. People will tell you to stop, but keep going. You will face obstacles. Overcome the obstacles. It works. You just have to believe. What culinary trends do you see for 2020 ? My predictions for pastry in 2020 are centered around modern 21
open another. Each location What does a typical day look like for you ? It’s always busy ! As a working mother, I’m awake most days at 5:30 am, and have my children up at 6 am, then everyone is in the car to make the school run at 7 am. After that, I make time for myself and go to the gym, then to work. I spend much of my time in the Galleria location, where I have a large kitchen to develop recipes and then splits the time between my remaining restaurants and finishes some administrative work at home. What is your favorite pastry? I have to choose three: fondant with vanilla ice cream, chocolate souffle, and cheesecake, chilled not baked. If you were a pastry, what would you be ? A cookie! No hesitation.
Find Hind on social media https://www.instagram.com/home_bakery/ Find more details about Home Bakery https://homebakery.ae/
Cream Chapter
Authentically Emirati With an eye on unique plating and an hommage to her roots, restaurateur and Chef Hind Al Mulla incorporated dairy cream by bringing new dimensions to typical UAE sweets. She assembled an ‘Authentically Emirati’ entremet with cardamom and cinnamon whipped cream. The collection of elements came together with a surprising amount of texture and was one of the most visually stunning plates at the event.
Find the recipe page 39.
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Hind Al Mulla
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Cream Chapter
Nina Métayer
Nina Métayer was born in France.
She traveled to
Mexico and Australia, where she had opportunities to develop and increase her love for pastry. As a pastry chef, she has worked with numerous prestigious restaurants, including Michelin starred Chef Jean François Piège at Le Grand Restaurant. Nina has been recognized and received numerous awards, including Pastry Chef of the year in 2016 by Le Chef Magazine, and Pastry Chef of the year in 2017 by the Gault & Millau Guide. In September 2019, she opened her first bakery in London at Mercato Metropolitano, and she works as a consultant.
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Nina Métayer Tell us about your journey as a chef. When I was 16, I went to Mexico for travel and really wanted to live there. I had it in my mind to be a baker, to make bread and sell products to restaurants. So, when I returned to France, I went to baking school. While I was there, one of my instructors told me I should learn English if I was going to work with hotels. So I went to Australia to study and work with another chef. After one
I spent two years at the hotel, then another in a hotel, with a Michelin
Where do you go to buy ingredients for your home
restaurant.
cooking ?
I fell into a similar pattern
I’m fairly particular where and
of working for prestigious restaurants and gaining experience, and then finally, I
what I purchase for home cooking. I buy from specific shops in Paris - the same where
went to work for myself. Not in Paris, but opening in London. I am also working on a project with
professionals shop. I’m going
my husband, a photographer,
should have access to the best
on a cookbook. My philosophy is relatively straightforward, I want
ingredients.
to try everything - to make good
year I came back to France and
choices, and make life interesting.
went to Paris, but couldn’t find a nice bakery. I only found places working with machines and not
What advice would you offer to young chefs starting out ?
the quality I wanted.
“My philosophy is relatively straightforward, I want to try everything to make good choices, and make life interesting.” I applied to school and was accepted to the famous FERRANDI Program in Pastry. It is a school where everybody is willing to learn. As I neared graduation, I began to look for work. I gave my CV to Le Meurice Hotel and went in at 10 PM for an interview. After graduation,
It’s important to know that it’s not easy. There are a lot of young people, but they are looking at a programme on television and imagine this is what it’s like. This is not the truth. Before you start, if you have all the facts, then you can make the right decision. I’m not trying to say that you can’t have a good life making cakes, of course you can. There are people who want to work hard, and positions that will take more involvement. The reality is that we all need to help each other when we are going through difficult times.
to sell some of these specialty products in London. Everyone
What does a typical day look like for you ? No day is the same. I currently work in three different places. Of course, some weeks are busier in one restaurant than another, and I am solving problems. For example, in my current shop, the team knows what they should be doing. I worked with them for two months, and now they are doing it, and I can put my time into different areas. What is your favorite pastry ? When I am making pastry, I prefer to make plated desserts. It’s not staying long, and I get to play with different elements. However, eating the pastry, It’s crumble, or something simple, like a banana in caramel.
What was the biggest risk you took in your career ?
If you were a pastry, what would you be ?
I’m not very scared, so I do the things when they come along. If I am scared about something,
Chantilly cream. A straight forward dish, just sugar and cream.
I have to face it. I do my best. If it’s not for me, then at least it is experience. There is no fail, there is only learning.
Find Nina on social media https://www.instagram.com/ninametayer/ Find more details about Mercato Metropolitano https://www.mercatometropolitano.com/
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Cream Chapter
Creamy, tangy grapefruit meringue When working with whipped cream, flavor infusion can be done using either cold or hot cream. Nina MĂŠtayer was one of the few chefs to put together a fruit-forward dish and whipped up a creamy grapefruit meringue, then completed the plate with vanilla tonka chantilly.
Find the recipe page 41.
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Nina Métayer
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Cream Chapter
Najla Shamiri
Najla Shamiri is a Saudi Chef from Jeddah. As a chef, she has worked for different groups such as Rocco Forte Hotel and Le Concheur Chocolatier. Najla has acted as the Head Chef at Knead Bakery in Jeddah since 2018 and is now working as a private culinary consultant.
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Najla Shamiri Tell us about your journey as a chef.
What was the biggest risk
I liked to cook at a young age.
I had a master’s degree in
I originally started work as a nutritionist, then decided to get
nutrition, but went to the United States to study. When I made
a ticket to the United States.
the decision to go, in basically
After I arrived, I applied and was
five days, I quit my job, and only
accepted into The International Culinary School at The Art
found schooling after I arrived in Pittsburgh. Actually, my very
Institute of Pittsburgh, where
first job in a kitchen was as a
I got a degree in culinary arts. Once I landed back in Jeddah,
trainee at Olive Garden !
I started doing things from home. I had my own vision and started with consulting, baking, and menu development. Most of my work came through consulting and I’ve enjoyed working with new clients. While I was focusing mostly on pastry and dessert, there was often some element of breakfast as well. As a consultant, in addition to some of my previously listed responsibilities, I also create and develop menus and recipes, train kitchen staff, and supervise quality control.
“It’s a job of passion, and you need it to survive and to be happy.” What advice would you offer to young chefs starting out ?
you took in your career ?
When you dine out, do you have any favorite restaurants ? I mostly have time for homecooked food; however, in Jeddah, I like Leylaty, a chain with several restaurants serving classical French desserts for thirty years. Of all your recipes, which one are you the most proud of ? My gluten-free chocolate cake. I love chocolate, but it’s usually creamy and dense. My recipe is a bit lighter, because I use a different technique for the flour. Generally, I’m usually happy to share my recipes as knowledge is helpful to be shared. What is your favorite pastry ? Why ? An eclair - very light, and you can play with the flavours to eat and make. If you were a pastry, what would you be ? A caramel eclair !
You really have to be motivated. It’s a job of passion, and you need it to survive and to be happy.
Find Najla on social media https://www.instagram.com/chef.najla/
29
Cream Chapter
Sticky dates cake
with salted caramel and infused Arabic coffee cream
Najla Shamiri also chose to feature an infused cream, putting together a sticky date cake with salted caramel. Her use of infused Arabic coffee cream brought a unique lightness to the pastry.
Find the recipe page 42.
30
Najla Shamiri
31
Cream Chapter
Ida Martin
Ida started her career in London working in a fine dining restaurant she then moved to the House of Commons, where she had the chance to work on large banquets with the pastry team. After moving to Dubai, Ida took on more responsibilities as the Head Pastry Chef of Queen Elizabeth II in Dubai.
32
Ida Martin Tell us about your journey as a chef. I started in the kitchen at 19 and worked in a fine dining restaurant at a casino in London. I started out in the larder, but I wanted to be in pastry. At the time, there was no room. From there, I moved to the House of Commons and was still on larder for two months, and then a spot finally opened in pastry. For three years, my job took all kinds of forms -- from casual to fine dining to banquets. This was a great experience, as I was not confined by only one style.
“Working as the head pastry chef, I’ll admit it’s not been easy to get here, especially as a woman.” Basically, I was trying anything and everything. Then I came to Dubai on a limited contract. While I worked for a number of restaurants and opening teams in the UAE, I was fortunate to end up at the Queen Elizabeth II, as part of the pre-opening team. From March 2018, I have worked on the ship, and it comes with different demands. Working as the head pastry chef, I’ll admit it’s not been easy to get here, especially as a
woman. In the kitchen, it seems like there is always someone to knock you down. What culinary trends do you see for 2020 ? Flowers are out, and people are interested in a lot of clean eating. Everyone’s trying to be a bit more sustainable. And
What is your favorite pastry ? The humble crumble -- as long as it's served with custard ! If you were a pastry, what would you be ? Smoked chocolate ice cream. I tried it on a culinary tour of Paris, and I’ve never forgotten it.
people will start to care more about where they get their food from and where it comes from. What was the biggest risk you took in your career ? My most significant risk in my career was my move to Dubai. It wasn’t what I expected. I was planning my work experience in New York at the same time, but ultimately decided to take a job in the United Arab Emirates. Of course, when I came over, I thought I would have access to the same products, and that everything would be available. The reality was something a bit different. When you dine out, do you have any favorite restaurants ? When dining out in Dubai, which isn’t very often due to my schedule, I like Izu’s Brasserie in Citywalk, and I also enjoy Bleu Blanc. Of all your recipes, which one are you the most proud of ? One of my favorite recipes calls back to an ingredient from my childhood. It’s like a bread and butter pudding, but with rhubarb compote with vanilla custard.
33
Find out more about Ida and The Queen Elizabeth 2 : https://www.qe2.com/ https://www.instagram.com/chef_idavictoria/
Cream Chapter
Chocolate and orange entremet, pistachio whipped ganache Ida Martin created a dense chocolate and orange pastry, featuring a delectable pistachio whipped ganache. French cream was featured in almost every element of the dish, including the crĂŠmeux, mousse, and ganache.
Find the recipe page 42.
34
Ida Martin
35
Cream Chapter
Recipes
36
Recipes p.14
ASSEMBLY
Bake at 120° C for 40 to 60 min, turn the tray after the first 30 min. Turn off the
Slightly melt the ganache.
oven and allow to cool com-
Using a teaspoon create
pletely.
lines on your plate. Place a pavlova on the plate and
DARK CHOCOLATE
fill it with the whipped
GANACHE
Rose and Honey Cream and sliced strawberries.
Dark Chocolate and Walnut Pavlova
140g 70% Chocolate
Pipe some of the cream
150g Cream
onto the plate as well.
50g Butter
Garnish with Rose White
Melt over Bain Marie, mix till
Chocolate
well combined.
nuts and dried Roses.
ROSE WHITE PAVLOVA
CHOCOLATE CRUMBLED
Yield – 20 pcs - 20g each
150g Caster Sugar
120g Egg Whites
40g Water
250g Sugar
105g White Chocolate
1 tsp White Wine Vinegar
10g Rose Water
1 tsp Corn Flour
Pink Food Coloring
1 tsp Vanilla
Boil water and sugar until
100g Walnuts, chopped 100g Dark Chocolate, melted Maldon Salt
just about to turn brown. Whisk in white chocolate, rose water and red food
Preheat the oven to 120° C.
coloring.
Whisk egg whites in an electric mixer fitted with a
ROSE AND HONEY CREAM
whisk attachment until it forms a stiff peak, add the
400g Cream
sugar one tablespoon at a
125g Mascarpone
time until the meringue is
15g Dried Roses
stiff and glossy.
25g Honey
Whisk in vinegar, corn flour
1 tsp Rose Water
and vanilla.
Heat cream, dried roses,
Fold in half of the chopped
honey and rose water till
walnut then swirl in the ¾
50° C.
melted chocolate.
Allow
Weigh 20g of meringue onto
baking
paper
then
shape each one into circles creating a crater by making
to
cool
complete,
ideally chill over night (this allows for better infusion) then strain. Whisk cream and mascarpone.
the sides a little higher than the middle. Sprinkle with walnuts and maldon salt then drizzle chocolate.
37
Crumble,
Wal-
Cream Chapter p.18 p.18
BLACK SESAME PRALINE
Lightly toast the nuts for 4-5
CARDAMOM SALTED
WITH SEA SALT (MAKES 385G)
min on 170° C and set aside
CARAMEL
to cool. 200g black sesame seeds
Make a dry caramel with the
100g caster sugar
150g caster sugar
sugar, then stir in the butter,
90g whipping cream
25g unsalted butter
followed by the cream.
18g liquid glucose
10g fleur de sel or sea salt
Continue to boil for 1-2 min,
Lightly toast the sesame
then remove from the heat
seeds for 4-5 min on 170° C. Using
Dark chocolate mousse & black sesame praline with iced yoghurt & caramel DARK CHOCOLATE MOUSSE (MAKES 500G) 1.5g gelatin leaf (can substitute with 1.5g gelatin powder soaked in 2tsp of cold water)
a
clean
and
to cool slightly.
dry
Gently melt the milk choco-
saucepan, make a dry cara-
late, then add the cooled cara-
mel with the sugar over me-
mel in stages, stirring until the
dium-low heat.
mixture is thick and glossy.
Once the caramel reaches
Fold in the chopped toasted
an amber color, add the
nuts and sea salt.
butter in small pieces and
20g unsalted butter 1g sea salt 2 each cardamom pods, crushed
Bring
the
cream
and
glucose to a boil with the cardamom & salt and set aside. Next, make a dry caramel with the sugar. Once it reaches an amber color, slowly and carefully add the
stir well (be very careful of
DARK CHOCOLATE
hot splatter).
BISCUITS
Add the sesame seeds, and
cream. Turn the heat to low. Add the butter in pieces and
turn to coat thoroughly in
80g caster sugar
the sugar, until all of the
46g dark brown sugar
seeds are covered.
68g unsalted butter
whisk to combine. Remove from the heat and strain.
Turn the praline onto a
5g vanilla essence
120g full fat milk
greased surface or silicone
2 ea egg yolk
Finish with a handblender
225g whipping cream
mat and flatten using a
162gm T45 flour
and cool completely.
spatula. Or, place a sheet of
14gm cocoa powder
baking paper on top and roll
2.5g baking soda
flat using a rolling pin.
64g dark chocolate, melted
150g dark chocolate (64%)
Bloom the gelatin in cold water.
Sprinkle with the fleur de
Sift the dry ingredients to-
Warm the milk and add the
sel and allow to cool com-
gether and set aside.
gelatin. Stir to dissolve and
pletely.
set aside.
Place the butter, sugars and
Once cooled, chop finely or
vanilla together in the bowl
Melt the chocolate gently
crush and store in an air-
of a tabletop mixer fitted
over a bain-marie. Do not
tight container at room tem-
with the paddle attachment.
overheat.
perature.
Whip the cream to soft
ingredients, followed by the
CARAMEL
melted chocolate. Mix well.
favorite dish or mould and chill until set, about 2-3 hours.
Wrap the dough and place 70g caster sugar
in a chiller to rest and set
100g whipping cream
for at least 20 min. Roll into
30g unsalted butter
a thin sheet and dock using a
100g chopped mixed nuts (hazelnuts, pecans, walnuts or just use one type)
dough docker or a fork.
2g fleur de sel or sea salt
for 4-6 min.
Bake at 180° C, medium fan,
60g milk chocolate
Cool and crush.
38
250g full fat milk 80g whipping cream 90g demerara sugar
40g white chocolate
& MILK CHOCOLATE
Pour the mousse into your
container and frozen.
250g yoghurt
the melted chocolate.
this stage, and that’s ok !
churner, or simply poured into a
20g liquid glucose
addition. Add the sifted dry
mousse will be very loose at
an ice cream using an ice cream
time, mixing well after each SALTED NUT
and gelatin mixture. The
This recipe can be prepared as
Add the egg yolks one at a
peaks, then gradually fold in
Finally, fold in the milk
ICED YOGHURT
Place the white chocolate in a mixing bowl. Next place the milk, cream, sugar and glucose in a saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Pour the boiled milk and cream over the chocolate. Allow the mixture to sit for one minute, then whisk until smooth.
Recipes Cool the milk and chocolate
CARAMEL TAHINI
p.22
mixture, then add the yo-
start getting thick. In another saucepan make
ghurt. Mix together using a
100g caster sugar
the sugar a dry caramel
whisk or handblender.
10g water
and add it to the hot flour
If you have an ice cream
150g cream
mixture.
machine, you can churn
75g rahash (compressed tahini, also called halawa)
Add
the mixture right away. Or,
20g glucose
pour it into a container and
Place the sugar, water and
freeze.
glucose in a sauce pan and cook on low heat until
ASSEMBLY
golden brown , then add
Authentically Emirati
Make a large quenelle of the mousse and coat with cru-
the cream and allow to boil . Take off heat add the rahash and use a hand blender to
shed sesame praline. Place a spoonful of the
100g Sago (tapioca)
the quenelle of mousse on
200g water
top.
200g caster sugar
ful on the plate next to the
Make quenelle or ball of the iced yogurt sorbet and place on top of the crushed biscuit Drizzle with the caramel sauce,
and
gold leaf. Serve.
garnish
with
in freezer to set. PUMPKIN HALWA
110g flour
21g rose water
Prepare molds very lightly spray and rub with cloth to
start cooking it, keep aside.
get excess oil out.
In another bowl soak the
Pour the sugar in the molds
saffron with the rose water,
and while its hot sprinkle
keep aside to infuse.
the sesame and rahash.
After it’s soaked you can place the sago with the to boil.
mixture,
and
cardamom,
mix
add
to
25g almonds roughly chopped & toasted
the
25g walnuts roughly chopped & toasted
well, desired
should
25g pistachio roughly chopped
feel
& toasted
sticky and elastic. Be careful shape
of
tapioca
In another pan brown the the
flour
and
100g eggs 90g caster sugar 4.5g vanilla extract 50g milk
100g flour 5g baking powder
saffron and keep aside
7g cardamom powder
In a deep sauce pan, put in the corn flour and water
39
once soft mash together.
Soak the rose water with
together bring to boil, it
and
medium heat until its soft,
1g saffron
0.5g saffron
the
pumpkin
5g rose water
54g rose water
not to over cook and loose
the
water in a saucepan on
SPICED CHIFFON CAKE
43g butter
Add the saffron and rose
Cook
and mix well.
54g rose water
sago mixture.
keep aside.
the
all the other ingredients
125g caster sugar
caramelize add it to the
saffron with rose water, and
pumpkin mix together, add
333g water
the sugar, once it starts to
In a small bowl infuse the
Mix
60g corn flour
In another pot dry caramel
0.5g saffron
flour until its really dark.
HALWA WITH NUTS
water in a large pot, bring
water
110g caster sugar
Cook sugar to a dry caramel.
water 2 hours before you
pearl
Shape in a mold. And place
150g water
50g rahash (compressed tahini, also called halawa)
5g cardamom powder
the
and set aside to cool.
AND REHASH
50g sesame toasted
45g rose water
consistency,
place a cartouche on top
CARAMEL WITH SESAME
100g caster sugar
1g saffron
water
Pour into a container and
5g cardamom powder
Soak the tapioca in the
mousse
remaining
150g pumpkin
side of the plate, and place
biscuit, and place a spoon-
the
smooth it out.
SPICED SAGO
salted nut caramel to one
Crush the dark chocolate
all
ingredients and mix well.
should
Cream Chapter Preheat oven to 185° C.
50g caster sugar
Place in fridge to cool, using
Go over the brown sauce
In a small bowl add the
25g water
a paring knife carve out
with the brush again to get
saffron with rose water to
2g cinnamon
the edges (you will know
a dark brown color on plate.
infuse, keep aside.
Boil the sugar and water,
its done when the caramel
Gently remove the film.
In an electric mixer add
once
comes out through the first
Remove the Emirati pudding
the eggs, sugar and vanilla
reduce the heat, add the
carve) and flip over. You can
from its foil casing and cut
extract, beat until pale and
cinnamon
use a cutter to cut it neatly.
with a cutter to desired shape
airy. Then add the rose
pumpkin slices, cook for
water
only few seconds you want
with
saffron,
and
sugar and
dissolves, then
the
place in the middle of the Get the halwa with nuts
milk.
to keep the bite on the
Then add the dry ingre-
pumpkin slice.
35ml orange juice
dients and fold gently with
Gently place on a baking
1/2 orange zest
a spatula. Place in a cake
paper to retain its shape.
125g cream 6.5g cinnamon powder 12.5g icing sugar
Whip
cream
and
sugar
the spiced chiffon cake, and
orange
cut into 5cm by 5cm cubes
250ml evaporated milk
sugar, and bring to boil.
and place 2 cubes on either
63g caster sugar
In a bowl whisk together the
side of the plate.
butter and the orange sugar
Place
mixture. Sift in the flour.
pumpkins on either side of
and
caster
nibbed pistachios and whisk.
Infuse the evaporated milk
Spread in a small tray and place in the fridge for 5 min.
and saffron low heat, do not
Using a spoon or spatula
boil, and keep aside over
Whip the cream and sugar
Place the overnight mixture
together once you get stiff
back on low heat, gently
peaks gently fold in the
steam.
cardamom powder.
whisk the eggs and sugar
spread the tuile mixture on
In
another
a silkomatt baking matt.
bowl
and
then
take
ASSEMBLY
off
Preheat oven to 150° C.
of the film and place on the
and keep stirring until the desired color is achieved. Use
a
hand
blender
smooth it out. SPICED PUMPKIN SLICES 10 slices of pumpkin (2mm thickness, 50mm in diameter)
to
the plate. Using a melon scoop, warm it in hot water and
create
deep
curves
into the cream . On one we
into a ball and dip the top with pistachio powder, and
of the plate. Spray one side
until its brown, add the oil
cream on the other side of
tahini.
the air bubbles. Keep aside. pan
of the plate and the other
and the other the caramel
10g vegetable oil
sauce
Pipe one cream on one side
shape immediately.
Cut a thick film to the size
size
the plate.
will place the spiced sago
if needed. Try and get rid of
medium
spiced
Once its out of the oven
heat. Pass through a sieve
a
sliced
Bake at 170° C for 10 min.
50g flour
in
the
For the pumpkin halwa roll
temper it to the infused milk
juice
right of the emirati pudding. Slice the top and bottom of
Add the orange zest and the
1g saffron
night to intensify the flavors.
flour
with
Custard
with cinnamon, cardamom
the
caramel
In another sauce pan whisk
8 pods cardamom
Brown
the
sesame and rahash to the
40g water
cinnamon powder.
BROWN FLOUR SAUCE
Place
63g soft flour
sauce pan to melt.
1 cinnamon stick
12.5 icing sugar
pudding.
Place the butter in a small
peaks gently fold in the
5.5g cardamom powder
this to the left of emirati
100g nibbed pistachio
125g caster sugar
125g egg
125g cream
halwa with nuts in it, place
Caramel
together once you get stiff
CARDAMOM CREAM
the tuile and then place the
50g butter
EMIRATI PUDDING
CINNAMON CREAM
out of its shape mold, place
125g caster sugar
tin and bake at 185° C for 40 min.
plate.
PISTACHIO TUILE
plate to stick and stay in
Make the caramel once you
place.
get a brown color place
Used a thick brush mix the
in the foil ramekin equal
brown flour sauce well, using
amounts of caramel. And
a tabletop turner, turn the
place in blast chiller to set
table and gently brush in
5-10min, once its set pour
circles until desired diameter.
the infused mixture and
Do this once only.
place in a water bath and
Place the plate in the blast
cook in the oven at 150° C
chiller for 5 min.
for 35 min. 40
place on top of the emirati pudding, and place a gold foil on top Place a gold foil on the tuile. And get some of the excess saffron used and place on top of the halwa with nuts. Lightly
dust
edges
pistachio powder.
with
Recipes p.26
ASSEMBLY
Let it cool, then mix with the
grapefruit juice. Let this mixture rest for 12 hours then
use
machine
an to
ice
30 pieces Grapefruit
cream
create
Dried grapefruit zest to taste
the
200g Marzipan
sorbet.
Dried vanilla powders to taste
Use a cookie cutter to cut
GRAPEFRUIT JELLY
the 2100g Grapefruit juice
Creamy, tangy grapefruit meringue
the center of the plate. Place a dab of marzipan on top.
Heat the grapefruit juice
Stick on the meringue shell.
and mix in the gelatin. Spread
onto
a
Garnish
greased
pan and let it set in the for
2
250g Confectioner's sugar
grapefruit
Arrange a few fresh grape-
hours
fruit slices.
TONKA VANILLA WHIPPED
pastry bag to create a pretty
CREAM
swirl
500g Caster sugar
electric
mixer,
beat the egg whites into peaks with the caster sugar and add the sifted powders.
whipped
Decorate with dried, can-
1kg Mascarpone
died zests, fresh grapefruit
210g Confectioner's sugar
segments, and dried vanilla
1 Tonka bean
powder...
3g Vanilla pod
Grate the tonka bean and
with the mixture and bake
mix it with liquid cream. Let
them on a baking sheet for
it infuse, cold, for 3 hours
30 min at 160° C then dry
then strain.
them at 100° C.
Combine with the sugar
Let them cool then scratch
and mascarpone and whip
them with a dremel.
it with the electric mixer.
GRAPEFRUIT AND
CANDIED GRAPEFRUIT
VANILLA SORBET
ZEST
630g Water
5 Grapefruits
1470g Grapefruit juice
500g Grapefruit juice
5 Vanilla pods
500g Caster sugar
210g Sugar
Remove the peel from the
12g Stabilizer
tonka
5L Liquid cream
Form pretty, smooth balls
108g Glucose spray
of
cream.
250g Almond powder
an
with
sorbet.
Use a 12mm wide plain tip
500g Egg whites
Using
into
3 Vanilla pods
before slicing
MERINGUE
jelly
200g Prepared gelatin
refrigerator
ALMOND SOUFFLÉ
grapefruit
circles and place them in
grapefruit making sure to discard all of the pith.
Heat the water to 50° C. Add
Slice the zest into a thin
the mix of sugar, glucose
julienne,
spray, and stabilizer. Add
times, then simmer in the
the vanilla and bring to a
syrup for around 15 min.
blanch
three
boil.
41
Cream Chapter p.30
COFFEE CREMUXE
Melt
(MAKES 850G)
sugar over 4 times. Add
90g Sugar
repeat until you get caramel
900g Heavy Cream
color. Then add butter and
600g Mascarpone cheese
stir slowly.
In a pot, add 400g cream,
Boil cream and salt. Add to
sugar, vanilla and coffee
STICKY DATES CAKES
caramel.
powder. Let it simmer and
Cool
remove after 30 min. Strain
down
and
squeeze bottle.
and add the gelatin. Add the rest of the cream cheese.
put
in
Chocolate and orange entremet, pistachio whipped ganache
Use hand blender to mix. DARK CHOCOLATE
Cool down in chiller for at
(30 MINI CAKES)
and
Put back into heat and
100g Arabic Coffee powder
mascarpone
p.34
1/4 of sugar.
12g Gelatin
and
sugar
add
the heat and add another
2 Vanilla beans Pods
with salted caramel and infused Arabic coffee cream
1/4
then
caramelize then take out of
400g Heavy Cream
Sticky dates cake
glucose,
MOUSSE
least 4 hours. 250g Dates, seeded, chopped
Using the whisk attachment,
6g Baking soda
mix the cream until soft
350ml Boiling Water
peak when ready to use.
450ml Milk 120g Egg Yolk 60g Sugar
125g Softened Butter
1050g Dark chocolate 66%
95g Light brown sugar, Demerara
CARAMELIZED PISTACHIO
10g Vanilla extract
(MAKES 1700G)
1500g Whipping Cream
260g All- purpose flour
1250g Row pistachio
Boil the milk. Soften the gelatin in the cold water.
1.5g Salt
125g Butter
6g Baking Powder
200ml Water
Preheat deck oven to 180° C.
5g Sea salt
2 Eggs
Mix the egg yolks with the sugar, add the boiling milk Pour the mixture over the chocolate to melt.
Grease and flour baking pan.
625g Sugar
Soak dates and baking soda in
Boil water and sugar in a
boiling water (leave for 20 min).
pot until crystalized.
In a mixing bowl with whisk
Add pistachio and continue
attachment,
stirring
mix
sugar,
until
Whip the cream, to soft peaks. Fold into the chocolate mixture and leave to set.
caramelized VANILLA CREMEUX
vanilla and butter until pale
(around 20 min).
and creamy. Add eggs one
Remove from heat and add
at a time.
butter. Spread in a silicon mate.
10 leaves (plus 2 grade
Sift dry ingredients and add
After cooling down keep in an
dependant)
them gradually with dates
air tide container, room temp.
1 litre Cream 10pc / 200g Egg Yolk
mix. Don’t over mix. Bake for 30 min. Let it cool
SALTED CARAMEL
down for 10 min. Then move
(MAKES 1700G)
100g Sugar 1pc Vanilla Pod Gelatin 10 leaves (plus 2 grade dependant)
to cooling rack. Glaze with caramel.
460g Glucose
Soak the gelatin in iced water. Warm the cream.
800g Sugar 190g Butter
Slice the Vanilla Pod in half, length ways.
20g Salt 800ml Cream
Mix the egg yolk, vanilla
42
Recipes seeds and sugar. Pour the cream over the eggs and sugar mixture. Slowly whisk the mix over a double boiler until the mixture thickens slightly without scrambling, pour into desired dishes and set
CONFIT ORANGE PEEL
cocoa
& POACHED ORANGE
baking sheet. Bake at 170° C for 5-7 min.
SEGMENTS
400g Sugar
MANDARIN GEL
Peel the oranges set aside the skin for confit.
1kg Mandarin Puree
Segment the oranges carefully trim if necessary.
50g Corn Flour 100g Sugar 50g Water
Warm 500gr of the mandarin puree with the sugar. Dilute the corn flour with the water and add to the heated puree. Continuously stir until the mixture starts to thicken. Take off of the heat then slowly whisk in the remainder of the Mandarin puree until a thick smooth consistency is achieved. Cool the mixture completely then bottle for later.
Roast the pistachio, at 160c for 8 mins no fan. Set aside to cool the crush for garnish.
Boil the sugar water and vanilla pods. Once at boil temperature take off the heat for 3 min the lightly poached the orange segments. Set aside to blow torch later. For the confit orange peel, slice to thin Juliennes and place into the sugar syrup. Place back on the heat at a slow simmer cook until the orange peel is tender. Cool then set aside for garnish. PISTACHIO WHIPPED GANACHE 900g Cream 100g Glucose
380g Whole eggs
1120g White Chocolate
40g Egg Yolk
50g Pistachio Paste
160g Sugar
Warm the cream. Pour over the white chocolate, pistachio paste and glucose. Whisk until smooth, set aside overnight. To use
3g Salt 40g Butter (melted) 40g Pistachio Paste 60g Flour 2pc Cream gas charge
Whisk the eggs and sugar together. Mix the pistachio paste with the melted butter. Combine the two mixtures.
whisk until soft peaks.
GRUE TUILLE
Fold in the salt and flour, ensuring no lumps.
200g Butter
Pour the mixture into the cream syphon cylinders and gas the mixture with 2 canisters.
50g Golden Syrup
Empty the mixture into 4-5 paper cups and microwave at 45-60 sec.
Melt the butter with the sugar and golden syrup.
a
300g Pistachio
PISTACHIO MICROWAVE SPONGE
on
ROASTED PISTACHIOS
900ml Water ½ pod Vanilla
Place
Cut desired shape and leave to cool.
6pc Oranges
aside for service.
nibs.
100g Sugar 265g Flour 75g Cocoa Nibs
Mix in the flour and the
43
Cream Chapter
A publication by CNIEL and The European Commission for the Cream of Europe program
Cream Chapter ISSUE N°1 - MIDDLE EAST - 2019
PUBLICATION DIRECTOR LAURENT DAMIENS
COORDINATION MARIE-LAURE MARTIN
WRITING COURTNEY BRANDT
ART DIRECTION SPATULE PROD’ : LEA CLAVEL, DAMIEN PAQUIOT
PHOTOGRAPHY SPATULE PROD’ : LEA CLAVEL, GUILLAUME CORONA
Rise to the top with French Cream
Join the community on Facebook and Instagram #thecreamlab.me
The content of this magazine represents the author’s point of view only and are the sole responsibility of the author. The European Commission is not responsible for any use that may be made from the information contained herein.