Time For Nostalgia: How The West Is Winning.

Roy Boyce

In the heyday of the Western movie industry, the El Rancho Hotel in Gallup, New Mexico was considered the central operations hub. The decline of the genre of movies altered the clientele of the hotel and subsequently changed the entire business. Saved from the wrecking ball in the 80’s, the on-going improvements in the hotel are keeping the hotel modern. With all the change, has the El Rancho lost its charm and is the historic hotel making its guests comfortable?

The drive West to the hotel from Albuquerque to Gallup, New Mexico is approximately 2 hours. When the hotel was constructed in 1936, it needed to be in close proximity to the many variations of western landscape. With such rugged, diverse and majestic terrain at its doorstep, the backdrop for Westerns throughout the 30’s into the 1950’s made the El Rancho a production hub for Western movie making.

The production of movies was so prolific that R. Griffith, the brother of movie mogul D.W. Griffith, built the El Rancho Hotel to provide lodging for film crews and celebrities. Adorning the hotel lobby, lounge and balcony are the signed photographs, souvenirs and memorabilia of the celebrity guests of a bygone age. A miniature museum or perhaps to some a shrine to the industry. Names include; Ronald Reagan, Spencer Tracy, John Wayne, Katherine Hepburn, Marx Brothers, Humphrey Bogart, Doris Day, Kirk Douglas, Burt Lancaster, and Lucille Ball. Certainly the ‘A’ list of Hollywood star guests is impressive. The hotel boasts some 158 movie star guests that worked on 116 films that were shot in the area.

The decline of the Western movie genre altered the guest population from movie stars and production crews, welcoming the American road traveller. The curious travellers arrived by retracing history on route 66 throughout the 60’s and 70’s travelling America by road. I am sure that the Santa Fe railway also had influence as well as the significant trade for the area in native goods and art that has been so influential. It is not inconceivable that a considerable portion of merchandise that adorns the boutiques of Santa Fe has journeyed from Gallup. With significant property maintenance issues and perhaps too many guest rooms empty, bankruptcy and demolition were once on the cards. Having always dreamed of owning the property, Armand Ortega purchased the property in 1986. Armand Ortega, a well-known Indian trader, bought the hotel and restored it to its original luster. Armand Ortega died in 2014 and currently Shane Ortega, Armand’s grandson, bought out his aunts’ and uncles’ share of the property in 2018. Shane continues to improve, restore and renovate throughout the property. Keeping to the spirit and vibe of the original hotel. It is reported that the current renovations and restorations plan is a $6M investment in the property. Today, there has been a resurgence in travelling Route 66 before much more of it disappears. The hotel is a popular stop for nostalgic Route 66 travelers as well as the participants and visitors to the local events. The events include balloonists for the Red Rock Ballon Rally to the Arts and Crafts Fair who can stay in rooms named for movie stars who were guests before them. The El Rancho was listed in the National Register of Historic Places in 1988. So, what’s it like? So having postulated over driving Route 66 for so many years. Staying at the El Rancho was a must. The neon, the history, the kitch were all part of the romance of the place for me. There is a balance between the old history, the connection with Route 66 and the now modernized hotel. Just enough Hollywood, desert, rock, neon and cars that just make it a package. It did not disappoint. Whether your interests are in the art and jewelry or perhaps curious about the Zuni Pueblo life, horseback riding like John Wayne or hiking in the Petrified Forest National Park in neighbouring Arizona. There is plenty to do. At the hotel, as you step through the door you are into another world. The mix of stone and large lumber beams and aged wood flooring. The large fireplace lounge, chandeliers, the woodwork and couches are all very inviting. The reception staff were very welcoming and the process of getting a key short and simple. I really like having a key. Call it an age thing if you must but I think that a key is both fitting a historic property and also more access limited. There are probably a couple of guest keys for the room and then there is a limited set of master keys for housekeeping and front of house staff. Those plastic cards can be reproduced instantly for as many of those cards the hotels have. What data can a proper key keep about your movements, nothing. I digress. I had a second-floor room looking out to the front of the hotel. It was hot outside and the room temperature was great. The aircon was not loud or obtrusive in the room which is really important for me. I certainly have no preference for those under-the-window aircon units that just grind it out all night that you find in many hotels. The bathroom was compact for sure however, for me it had everything that I needed and it all worked great. I had reserved a small room as I am just one person. Larger rooms are available and I believe that the hotels top suites are being renovated. No bathtub (I never take a bath anyway), just a good size shower with good water pressure and temperature. Very nice after a day playing in the rocks and desert. Bedroom size was great. Enough room for me and my luggage and not tripping over anything. Bed was fantastic. Really great mattress and linens. I had an amazing sleep and was not woken by hotel or road noise. There is a great deal to look at in the hotel. The pictures, posters etc. are all very cool. It was great to explore both inside and outside the hotel. The shop has a lot of merchandise including native art and jewelry. I have one comment or complaint if you like. I did stroll into the 49er Lounge for a beverage. The bartender was very busy clearing and putting away. When ready, her head popped up and glanced at me she said “last call”. I looked at my watch and it was 9:40pm. I guess that my expectations were a little off. I do think that this is a very early closing time. The couple that was seated at the bar looked disappointed but the couple that came in after me were really bummed out as they left unsatisfied.

With all that said, the El Rancho was an experience that I looked forward to for years and did enjoy. My sleep was fantastic and I can clearly see that the restoration and renovations are improving the experience and keeping the property up-to-date. The improvements are all going in the right direction. As with any renovation restoration project that has a historic facet, a portion of the project can be financial punishing because of the historic aspect. It takes drive and love to see past the shortterm returns in favour of keeping the charm alive. Glad to see that Shane Ortega has the love and courage to continue what his grandfather started. I would recommend my friends and family to stay. Hopefully I will get an opportunity to revisit the El Rancho in the future.

The El Rancho Hotel is at 1000 E Hwy 66, Gallup, NM 87301, United States The opinions shared are based on my own experience. Your experience could be the same or different. Take time to do your own research to see if this is right for you. I was not paid or sponsored by anyone, including the El Rancho hotel to stay at this location. It was an independent choice and my stay was funded from my personal account.