CraftPittsburgh #12 by CraftPittsburgh

CraftPittsburgh

CraftBeerMagazine Issue #12 October - December 2013

STEEL CITY’S

BIGGEST POUR plus

• have you tried... • cooking with beer • home brewing • upcoming beer events CraftPittsburgh.com

Beer Creative One-of-a-kind treats from ”Brewser” the Infuser every Thursday 16 ever-changing American craft beers on tap rotation Weekly beer samplings Beeried Treasures Aletails and craft cocktails Fresh and local homemade food ‘til midnight

EDITOR’S NOTE

Challenge yourself It’s easy to look around Pittsburgh’s current craft beer landscape and get the feeling that we’re spoiled. Has there ever been a time to be a fan of good local beer? Surely not-- much like prior issues of Craft Pittsburgh, this quarter brings tidings of new brewery openings such as Steve Sloan’s Roundabout Brewery project in Lawrenceville to Shubrew, Zelienople’s first brewpub. Hop Farm Brewing of Lawrenceville and Four Seasons Brewing of Latrobe have also opened in the weeks just prior to printing. Melinda Urick reports Steel City Big Pour was back bigger and better for a seventh time, and planning is already underway as the third iteration of Pittsburgh Craft Beer Week beckons on the calendar. The city’s production breweries continue to grow as demand outstrips capacity, you can get good beer at the airport, many restaurants, and even (gasp!) the grocery store. The prevailing view holds that everything is copasetic with Pittsburgh’s beer scene. An evening session over pints of excellent local cask ale with a prominent local wholesale distributing representative got me thinking about this topic. He argued that Pittsburgh’s beer culture is not where it needs to be-- that despite new brewery announcements and upward sales trajectories, there still exist huge opportunities within the market. That he constantly challenges local brewers to “step their game up”, that we are being outpaced by city’s of similar size and resources. I found myself agreeing with many of his points. A recent trip to Fort Collins, the so-called “Napa of Beer” introduced me to a mature beer-loving community highlighted by large brewers producing the exceedingly high-quality beer on a national scale, and smaller experimental breweries pushing the boundaries of innovation, filling niches demanded by an educated and passionate consumer base. It led me to conclude that as far as Pittsburgh beer has come in recent years, there is still so much yet waiting on the horizon. It’s a challenge for a better beer community that begins with you- the drinker, the consumer, the local craft beer fan. Challenge yourself to learn about and try new styles and expand your palate; be an evangelist for good beer in your spheres of influence. Challenge restaurateurs to offer fresh local beer and reward their efforts with your patronage. Encourage local brewers to keep innovating, focusing on quality, and proliferating in the market. Let government representatives know that common sense legislation surrounding craft beer production and distribution is important and helps our local economy. Be the change you want to see in our beer community, and we will all reap the benefits going forward. Community is an evolution and a process, and Craft Pittsburgh is excited and committed to keeping you informed each step of the way. Cheers,

Slouch Sixpack

Craft Pittsburgh | Issue 12

TABLE OF CONTENTS on tap

THIS ISSUE SPECIALS

City’s Biggest Pour 6 Steel 7th annual Big Pour 10 Roundabout Brewery Opens it’s doors 12 Shubrew The opening of a

pg. 10

THE REGULARS

Zenlionople brewpub

4 Upcoming Events 5 Unfiltered 18 Beer Review 20 Home Brewing 22 Cooking with Beer

pg. 6

PUBLISHER Craft Media, LLC

EXECUTIVE EDITOR

Tim Russell • Tim@CraftPittsburgh.com

MANAGING EDITORS

Slouch Sixpack • Slouch@AleHeads.com Mike Weiss • Mike@CraftPittsburgh.com

GRAPHIC DESIGN

Rob Soltis • SoltisDesign.com For information on contributing editorial content or placing display advertising please contact us at info@CraftPittsburgh.com Craft Pittsburgh is issued quarterly by Craft Media, LLC. All information and materials in this magazine, individually and collectively, are provided for informational purposes. The contents of this magazine do not necessarily reflect the views and policies of Craft Media, LLC., nor does the mention of trade names or commercial products constitute endorsement or recommendation for use. No portion of this magazine may be reproduced in whole or part without expressed written permission from the publisher. Advertisements are subject to the approval of Craft Media, LLC. Craft Media, LLC. reserves the right to reject or omit any advertisement at any time for any reason. Advertiser assume responsibility and complete liability for all content in their ads

CraftPittsburgh.com

UPCOMING EVENTS check our calendar at craft Pittsburgh for additional details, updates, and even more events

october of Pumpkin Fest at Blue Dust 2 •• Son Brewing Up a Cure 19

• Sprague Farms Brewery Tour • Drunkin Pumpkin • Full Pint Brewery Tour • Voodoo Brewery Tour • Hard Cider Hike

22/27 Brooklyn Brewery Mash

South Side, Pittsburgh www.otbbicyclecafe.com 4

Craft Pittsburgh | Issue 12

Phone: 412-381-3698

24 Oktoberfest Brewer’s Dinner 26 Saints and Sinners Brewery Tour november 1 1st Firkin at Caliente Keg Ride 2 •• Reverse Full Pint Brewery Tour 9 Pittsburgh Breweries Tour 16 “Yinz Goin’ North?” PA Brew Tour 23 Pittsburgh BrewFest december 6 1st Firkin at Caliente 7 Homestead Steel Works Tour & PA Beer Tasting 14 Pittsburgh Breweries Tour january 3 1st Firkin at Caliente 30 Pour For a Cure february 28/31 Pittsburgh Winter Beer Fest

UNFILTERED

THE HAPPINESS

OF BEER

By Melinda Urick

here’s this phenomenon -- called “experience stretching” -that I recently read about.

In “Stumbling on Happiness,” Daniel Gilbert, the book’s author, writes about when happiness -- or what makes us happy -- expands and changes relative to our experience. There’s much more to the contextual theory, of course. Nonetheless, I find the hypothesis fascinating. Think about it framed in experiencing events such as Beer Week -- an almost-perfect metaphor for many people stumbling on “happiness.” The year’s Main Event, however, is the Steel City Big Pour. I didn’t intend on attending for a variety of excuses: too big, too expensive, too many assholes, no designated driver... more of the same. I had the snobbery of a “been there, done that” braggart. Then I was officially invited (on assignment) to the Steel City Big Pour. I’m not saying that craft beer is a barrier to happiness (although alcohol is a known depressant), but with several years-worth of attending tastings and classes and events (and drinking), it did leave me demanding better, nicer, bolder, different in order to be satisfied. With this background, wouldn’t we all crave these things? That’s experience stretching. yeth Gilbert, “Once we have an experience, we are thereafter unable to see the world as we did before.” Or maybe that was just the 16th beer sample talking. How would I appreciate this year’s celebration differently, in order to enhance my experience? I had to determine a new set of standards for myself (and others -- I’m looking at you, brewers!) without being a jagoff. How and why were beer events so interesting to me in the first place? Perhaps I was simply burned out. Like, “OOPS! I DRANK TOO MUCH!” Because of that (and, working!), I didn’t drink a lot during the first session (no worries, I caught up in the second). This gave me the opportunity to walk around with a friend and beer rep, who talked about his own recent experiences in the industry and with Steel City Big Pour: what’s new, who’s new, and what should I try next. I kept pace, but enjoyed the event in the realm of his experience -- which was different than mine, more skilled even -but I was hooked on someone else’s happiness. That interest was intoxicating (beer pun!).

It’s not 2,000 BUs. The hops weren’t harvested from the grounds of a temple in the heart of a jungle that you’ve never even heard of. This beer won’t change your attitude. We’re not trying to scare you or numb your tongue. You just drink it. It tastes great.

JUST IPA. THE SOCIAL IPA.

The Beer is not there to simply get drunk, but is there to stretch your own experience. But like all experiences, you have to reconnect and reinvigorate your passions in some new way and, well, not be a jerk like me and get bored. I have an adventurous and stouthearted personality; my brain is trained to seek out the novel. And is probably THE fault of my habit of being bored. This was not my first Big Pour -- nor will it be my last -- and the festivities were a good reminder of all the things that make me happy about the craft beer community. Stretching my experiences? Challenge Accepted. Happiness acquired.

Reprinted by permission of Brewery Comic

CraftPittsburgh.com

STEEL CITY’S

BIGGEST POUR by Melinda Urick photos by Jeni Benz, courtesy of Construction Junction

he first Saturday in September is a pre-booked date for many local craft beer drinkers and those in the industry. In its 7th year, the Steel City Big Pour welcomed over 3,200 attendees -- split between two sessions, over six hours -who tasted craft from 43 brewer tables and snacks from several food partners. At $75 per ticket, the annual event sold out almost immediately, and those sales raised an estimated $145,000 for Construction Junction, whose mission is to promote conservation through the reuse of building materials. Nicola Coohill, Office and Communication Manager for Construction Junction, said, “We usually need support to get us through the winter months when donations and sales slow down, for any updates [or] upgrades necessary for the operation, and also to help us make improvements to our services.” In addition to ticket holders, the event has its own crew: approximately 300 from the brewers and food partners and an additional 60 staff member from Construction Junction, its board and volunteer and Zero Waste service crew. Coohill added, “The Big Pour’s pretty important to us, and we’re very grateful to everyone who supports it – sponsors, brewers, distributors, food partners, ticket buyers, artists, committee, volunteers, CJ staff and Board members.” Homebrewers were represented again this year; Three Rivers Alliance of Serious Homebrewers (T.R.A.S.H.) is a yearly highlight for festival-goers. Chris Meta, Brewers Liaison for Steel City Big Pour said, “When we were developing the festival, we wanted to have T.R.A.S.H. featured 6

Craft Pittsburgh | Issue 12

as one of the ‘breweries’... After the first year, it was pretty clear to all involved that the T.R.A.S.H. booth was one of the greatest parts of the festival.” This year, T.R.A.S.H. had 54 different beers at the Big Pour, and they were brewed by 10 different brewers. The beers changed every hour, and nine beers were on tap at a time (with one pumpkin beer on at all times too). In order to participate, T.R.A.S.H. members were chosen based on merit and participation within the club. Keith Kost, who organized T.R.A.S.H. participation this year, said, “In the past we had a hard time filling all of the slots, but the club is growing so that was not an issue this year. I actually was a bit surprised by the response. Next year we will have a more formal points-based merit system to determine who will pour at this event.” Each year, the art is different. This year, welding and metal artists, and the sign artist were working the event; there were also new names behind the kegerator art. And for the first time, Construction Junction produced custom ceramic growlers. From the event website, Big Pour Main Instigator, David Lagnese said “We love the idea of growlers because it supports our mission or conservation and reuse... and when you use one you’ll be supporting reuse and thus the mission of CJ.” A Big Pour hoodie made its inaugural appearance too. An extension of the yearly fundraiser, Big Pour Week leads craft beer fans up to main event. Various smaller events and tastings took place across the Pittsburgh area September 1-8, and included: Kelly’s Bar & Lounge -- they hosted their annual Mini Wet-Hopped Beerfest and had several tap takeovers; Blue Dust celebrated a two-part Big Pour preview; Mad Mex in Robinson held an exclusive Victory Brewing tasting, coordinated with a “Taste of Victory” Cornhole Tournament; Bocktown Monaca took a “hopheads adventure” with Three Heads Brewing – and that’s just to name a few. Traditionally, the conclusion of Big Pour is the Breakfast Brunch featuring Founders’ Kentucky Breakfast Stout, held the day after the Steel City Big Pour, at Fathead’s. Big Pour Week is coordinated and promoted through the sponsorship of the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette, and is a way to support brewers and food partners that participate in the Big Pour. While not a direct fundraiser for Construction Junction, Coohill stated, “The goal of Big Pour Week is to leverage the Steel City Big Pour’s success to support our local partners – craft brewers, beer bars and restaurants – who share our commitment to craft beers, artisanal food traditions, and promoting reuse.” Craft-centric restaurants such as Bocktown Beer and Grill – a local establishment involved with the Steel City Big Pour event from its inception as both a sponsor and vendor – participated in Big Pour Week as well. Chris Dilla, founder of Bocktown said, “We had seven tasting events: four in Robinson... and three in Monaca. We tried to have them all be hosted by brewers, owners or brewer’s reps, and get the folks traveling in for the Pour to highlight their products and upcoming projects.” A week of beer festivities wasn’t the only new thing planned this year, there were several newcomers to the event: Four Seasons Brewing Co., ShawneeCraft Brewing Co. and Roundabout Brewery (to name a few) and new food partners Franktuary, Burgatory, Verde, The Porch at Schenley, the Lomito Truck and Slow Food Pittsburgh. The Big Pour is focused on local food sourcing and a partnership with the Pennsylvania Association for Sustainable Agriculture, which actively works to help connect farmers with Big Pour Food Partners. The Big Pour app was upgraded this year with the support of Giant Eagle Market District to reflect an improved user experience. Last year, participation proved it to be a very useful tool, and now year round, users can navigate the Big Pour and view ratings of beers and foods featured at the event. CraftPittsburgh.com

Darren Olson, President and CEO of RhoMania, LLC, creates apps for restaurants and events that allow people to learn, explore and enjoy. Olson said, “We want Big Pour participants to have all the information about the beers, food and art at their fingertips to enhance their enjoyment. Food and beer are, at their heart, a social event. That’s one of the reasons why Big Pour is so successful.” The Big Pour app incorporates technology, beer and community into something that fosters discussion and interaction, and can evolve with each yearly event. It was created to enhance the Big Pour experience, allowing users to share their thoughts and preferences with others – rating each tasting through a star system, which was inevitably the most popular feature. The Top Ten list is updated in real time once users rate and review what they drank. This list of the highest-rated beverages was viewable via the app and a monitor onsite, which created a scoreboard-like experience for attendees (and those playing along at home). Olson added, “When you try something great, you want to share it. When you hate it, you want to tell others why. And perhaps just as important, we all want to know what others think, and why.” Another new partnership between PA Brew Tours and “Safe Travel Sponsor” Highmark provided a “designated driver” shuttle. Prior to the event, attendees could purchase an additional ticket for the bus service and travel round-trip to predetermined locations within Pittsburgh neighborhoods and the Big Pour. The yearly festival continues to get better, “Lots of new faces” as Dilla pointed out. “One of the best new things from an insider perspective was the attention level of the volunteer staff... As a consumer, I liked seeing new restaurants and breweries there, and it seemed just a little less crowded to move around.” Coohill had some personal highlights this year too, “The things that stand out is how happy Four Seasons Brewing Co. were to be at the Big Pour – they were just overflowing with enthusiasm (and, I hear, good beers), and the level of commitment shown by Point Brugge Café, Park Bruges and Whole Foods Market in bringing in such huge quantities of delicious fine foods. It’s quite overwhelming – humbling even – to be on the receiving end of such generosity.” Planning already started for 2014 -- before this year’s Steel City Big Pour even took place. Coohill concluded, “Our goal is to have each Big Pour better than the last – we all work really hard to try to make it a great time for everyone.”

Craft Pittsburgh | Issue 12

HAPPINESS IS JUST A BREWERY AWAY.

Go online to find our tour calendar, tickets, and all the ways we craft the best tour experience for you.

PABREWTOURS.COM

412.400.7837 â&#x20AC;˘ info@pabrewtours.com

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Roundabout Brewery Opens Its Doors by Brian Reed

hen Craft Pittsburgh readers last met local brewmaster Steve Sloan, he had just been named GABF ‘Large Brewpub Brewer of the Year’ for 2012. We got the opportunity to visit Steve and his former crew at The Church Brew Works and talk a bit about the direction that Steve was taking the brewpub and improved production efforts. A lot has changed for Steve and his wife Dyana since we last checked in. Soon after our interview Steve departed from CBW and embarked on a journey which he had long desired to take. Although Steve (a well-known journeyman and veteran of the brewing industry) had worked in a number of celebrated breweries all over the world, he had never gotten the opportunity to run his own brewery. Upon his departure from CBW, the Sloan’s decided to finally take a leap of faith. Roundabout Brewery officially opened its doors at the corner of 49th and Butler in Lawrenceville on July 12th of this year and was immediately swamped with patrons eager to discover what Steve would create when left to his own devises. A line snaked through the tasting room, out the door, down the ramp, and on to the sidewalk from nearly open to close on day one. “It was a bit hectic,” Steve replied with a smile when asked about their grand opening. Roundabout is a currently a two person operation. Steve and Dyana manage every aspect of the business; a labor of love that allows for little free-time. Dyana hails originally from Christchurch, New Zealand, so it’s not hard to see why Steve gathers some of his inspiration for ingredients and styles from his wife’s homeland (Steve also briefly lived and brewed in NZ). Despite high demand and a relatively small capacity system, Roundabout has managed to maintain between four and six interesting and extremely well crafted beers available in the tasting room. A diverse lineup—ranging from boisterous American IPAs, to a German Pils with Polish hops, to a Cherry 10

Craft Pittsburgh | Issue 12

Oatmeal Brown Ale—has been a huge draw (keep up-to-date on what is pouring in the tasting room at roundaboutbeer.com). Currently Roundabout beer can be purchased for takeout consumption in 64 oz. standard growlers and in unique 32 oz. smaller vessels referred to ‘The Round’; holding approximately two pints, ideal for BYO dining or when a growler is just too much for one person. Dyana and Steve are happy to pour samples in the tasting room to help you decide what to take home. Although they are currently only serving takeout beer, look for the addition of pub service in the near future. Growler hours: Wed-Fri 4:30-9:00, Sat 12:00-9:00, Sun 9:30-12:30 *closed Mon & Tues Address: 4901 Butler St. Pittsburgh, PA

Award winning beer,

handcrafted for you!

216. 898. 0242 • 18741 SHELDON ROAD, MIDDLEBURG HEIGHTS, OHIO 44130

FH#642_CRAFTPGH_HORIZONTALAD_8.5x5.5.indd 2

FATHEADS.COM

9/9/13 11:43 AM

CraftPittsburgh.com

the opening of a

Zelionople Brewpub by Slouch Sixpack

elionople’s first brewery is opening in less than three days, and Zachary Shumaker has his hands full. The owner, brewmaster, bartender, and proprietor of Shubrew Handcrafted Ales and Food is winding down a 14-hour brewday with a fourth batch of Jungleboot IPA, making sure the stainless conical fermenters in the pub basement are full and ready to replace whatever the initial onslaught of craft beer fans consume opening weekend: “People around here love their IPA’s. It’s easily my best seller at tastings we’ve done. And the locals love the fact that the beer is made in Zelionople. There’s a ton of pride in this town, and they love the idea that there’s a brewery here. People come up and tell me ‘This is our brewery’ and that’s exactly what I want.” Shubrew’s story began six years ago in San Diego, where Shumaker was stationed with the Marine Corps. Due to a clerical error, he was overpaid during the term of his enlistment and learned he owed the government about $5,000. It was time to get a second job. “Every weekend I was hanging out at Stone Brewing, taking friends to try this crazy beer, getting growlers filled. Stone World Bistro and Gardens was just opening, so I put in an application.” Soon Shumaker was washing dishes and cutting carrots at an epicenter of the craft beer revolution: “It doesn’t matter if you’re the janitor at Stone. They make sure everyone understands what brewing is and how beer is made. I got extremely intrigued by the whole process and the culture of craft beer.”

blown away by the generosity of local beer fans we didn’t even know. Suddenly, we had the starting funds for the brewery.” The couple found a location on Main Street in Zelienople with a full kitchen ready for rent. While so many breweries open in out-of-the way locations like industrial parks due to affordable real estate, the Shumakers wanted their brewpub right in the heart of the community. After more than a year of refurbishing the site, Shubrew is ready and open for business. Shumaker plans to always have a pale ale, IPA, and brown ale on tap, with the remainder a rotation of styles depending on the season and customer demand. Opening weekend featured an Irish red, saison, and a pumpkin porter, and as we go to press the new Shubrew website advertises higher gravity offerings like a strong Scotch Ale and Imperial Stout: “You have to stop caring about just what you want to drink as a brewer. If it were up to me, I’d be running a full sour brewery. But this is a business and I’m on the main street in Zelionople. A nice thing about the size (or lack of size) of our brewing system means I can try a one-off and worst case scenario, I’m stuck with a barrel of slow seller. It gives me flexibility.” Erika took charge of developing the pub’s food menu and the couple is proud of the range of sandwiches, pizzas, salads, and soups designed to complement Zachary’s beers. Everything is made in-house with no processed ingredients. Local ingredients are used whenever possible.

After his service, Shumaker returned to the Pittsburgh area, not sure what to do next. One night at Church Brew Works, his father suggested that if he loved beer so much, he should open a brewery. That evening Shumaker bought his first homebrewing equipment from a Pitt student on Craigslist. He spent the next few years teaching himself how to brew, refining recipes and techniques.

Due to the small batch sizes and the pub’s popularity, the only place to currently get Shubrew beer is making the 30 minute drive north from Pittsburgh. Expect to find fresh beer, food, and friendly folks in an idyllic small town setting. Slippery Rock’s North Country Brewing recently purchased the Harmony Inn, just a mile away from Shubrew-yet another reason for area drinkers to make the trek as Zelionople and Harmony evolve into a craft beer travel destination.

Zachary credits his wife Erika with pushing him to achieve his goal: “A year into our relationship, she said ‘You’re always talking about opening a brewery. Why don’t you quit talking about it and do it?’” Fueled by the challenge, the couple started a 60-day $25,000 crowdfunding campaign online. “It came down to the final minutes. I was

Like any business person, Shumaker thinks about the future and expansion, perhaps a larger production brewery. For the time-being though, he is busy keeping up with demand for his beers at the pub. So stop in to Shubrew and experience the area’s newest brewery for yourself.

Craft Pittsburgh | Issue 12

SPONSOR DIRECTORY 3 Rivers Six Pack 6750 Hollywood Blvd., Delmont (724) 468-3005 3riversbeer.com

Caliente Pizza & Draft House 4624 Liberty Ave Bloomfield 15224 (412) 682-1414 pizzadrafthouse.com

Pistella Beer Distributors 5514 Penn Ave., Pittsburgh 15206 (412) 361-0915

3100 Craft Beer Frank Fuhrer Wholesale 3100 East Carson St., Pittsburgh 15203 (412) 488-8844 fuhrerwholesale.com

D’s SixPax & Dogz 1118 S Braddock Ave, Pittsbugh 15218 (412) 241-4666 ds6pax.com

Rivertowne Brewing 5578 Old William Penn Hwy., Export 15632 (724) 519-2145 myrivertowne.com

Fat Head’s Saloon 1805 East Carson St., Pittsburgh 15203 (412) 431-7433 fatheads.com

Tony Savatt, Inc. 19-29 Shingiss St., McKees Rocks 15136 (412) 331-1222 TonySavatt.com

Full Pint Brewing Company fullpintbrewing.com

Vecenie Distributing Company 140 North Ave., Pittsburgh 15209 (412) 821-4618 beersince1933.com

Beer Express 4326 Steubenville Pike, Pittsburgh 15205 (412) 920-0511 beerexpressisbest.com Blue Dust 601 Amity St., Homestead (412) 461-6220 bluedustpgh.com Bocktown Beer and Grill 690 Chauvet Drive, Pittsburgh 15275 (412) 788-2333 500 Beaver Valley Mall Blvd Monaca 15061 (724) 728-7200 bocktown.com Brews Brothers 315 Mt. Lebanon Blvd., Pittsburgh 15234 (412) 561-2075 brewsbro.com BruFest pghyrugby.com Cain’s Saloon 3239 W Liberty Ave Pittsburgh 15216 (412) 561-7444 cainssaloon.com

Galli Beer 800 Anderson St., New Kensington 15068 (724) 337-3581 gallibeercorp.com Giant Eagle gianteagle.com/beer

Wilson-McGinley 85 36th St., Pittsburgh 15201 (412) 621-4420 wilsonmcginley.com Zoe’s Beer Distributor 4102 Clairton Blvd., Brentwood 15227 (412) 881-4002 zoesbeer.com

Just Beer Project justbeerproject.com OTB Bicycle Café 2518 East Carson St., Pittsburgh, 15203 (412) 381-3698 otbbicyclecafe.com PA Brew Tours (412) 400-7837 pabrewtours.com

ThankYou

ASK FOR US WHERE YOU BUY BEER. all Six varietieS now available.

it 's crafty. IT’s just your t ype.

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CraftPittsburgh.com

BEER REVIEW

Have d e i r T u Yo

By Hart Johnson

VICTORY | helios

7.5% - Belgian Style Saison - victorybeer.com

Raised on Dupont Saison and other dry saisons from the Wallonian region of Belgium, too many American interpretations tend to veer off into the lets-just-addspices-to-get-that-spicy-character approach. While sometimes that’s nice, most times the spicing is just a poor attempt at covering up a relatively sweet beer. Helios plays to all my heartstrings: no spices added, ridiculously dry and probably the best bargain in the category. Helios pours a slightly hazy yellow with nice thick, rocky white foam. Juicy Fruit gum, tropical fruit, and white pepper aromas dance out of the glass. Flavorwise, some bready malt notes are there before the yeast esters come through, followed by lemon peel, more white pepper, mango, herbal hop notes and finishing with a mouth-watering ripe peach note. Truly world class and have I mentioned the price point on this? Because it begs to be repeated, the best bargain in Saison. Recommended if you like: Saison Dupont, Ommegang Hennepin, Yard’s Saison, Silly Saison

FOUNDERS | dirty bastard

8.5% - Scotch Style Wee Heavy - foundersbrewing.com The thing about beer is balance. Sometimes balance flies right out the window in the name of bitterness and you have yourself an IPA. Other times that unbalance hits the exact opposite end of the spectrum and you find yourself with something like this: Layer upon layer upon layer upon layer of malt complexity, notes of vanilla, caramel candy, figs, overripe cherries and toasted hazelnuts. Sometimes malt-forward beers can get a bit cloyingly sweet, this brown “Bastard” manages to just barely avoid that with a hint of bitterness and candy apple on the finish. Recommended if you like: Traquair House Ale, Oskar Blues Old Chub, Moylan’s Kilt Lifter, Smuttynose Scotch Ale

CONEY ISLAND | albino python 6% White Lager shmaltzbrewing.com/CONEY

At first glance the words “White Lager” rolled my eyes. Great, I thought, another crossover beer just putting words together so they can be the pioneer of that style. Then I did a little research and realized everything Coney Island does is a lager. Ok, you got me, stick to your guns and get creative from there. I can respect that. A hazy orange beer brewed with fennel, ginger, and sweet orange peel; the spice element announces itself loud and clear in the aroma. Some very nice butterscotch and toasty malt flavors balance out the candied orange and ginger flavors on the tongue with a bit of a grassy hop note on finish. Very nice spice-to-beer balance. Recommended if you like: Full Pint White Lightning, Ommegang Witte, New Holland White Hatter, Unibroue Blanche De Chambly

HOPPIN’ FROG | silk porter 6.2% - Robust Porter - hoppinfrog.com

Somewhere between the fall Oktoberfest, pumpkin, and the winter holiday beer seasons porter season got lost. Leaves on the ground translate to some dark, rich, liquid-malty porter in my glass. This here Silk Porter fits the bill nicely with lots of 14

Craft Pittsburgh | Issue 12

dark chocolate, caramel, and toasted grain aromas. Flavor is decidedly malt forward with barely a trace of any hop notes (that’s not a bad thing), rich chocolate malt note, and damn near perfect toasty sweetness. It’s almost like drinking a malted milk ball, but nowhere near as sweet. There’s a certain mouth-watering aspect in the finish that just begs you to put more of this deliciousness in your face hole. Recommended if you like: Founder’s Porter, Great Lakes Edmund Fitzgerald, Smuttynose Porter, Fuller’s London Porter, Flag Porter

HELLTOWN | idle hands 8% - Double IPA - helltownbrewing.com

Oh Double IPA, you’re a style I hate to love. So much bravado and machismo jammed into you. Big, bold, brash, bitter, and sometimes even breathtaking. But so many times, DIPA, you meander into a sweet, boozy mess just hiding behind a mountain of bitterness. Helltown Brewing has done Double IPA right. With a hazy, pale orange color, wafts of candied oranges, pineapple, and tropical fruit aromas jump out of the glass. There’s a fair amount of bitterness present in the flavor department, along with more fruity and citrus hop flavors. Here’s where you get dangerous, you lovely glass of delicious: You keep the boozy flavors under wraps. You’re such a sneaky 8% abv beer. Be careful with this one. Also, go visit Helltown in Mt. Pleasant because they’re some pretty awesome people. Buy a growler and t-shirt, try their other beers, and tell all your friends. Recommended if you like: Stone Ruination, Sierra Nevada Hoptimum, Ballast Point Sculpin, Moylan’s Hopsickle, hops, awesome people

VIP

GeneraL

rd Saturday, Nov. 23 4:30-8:30 5:30-8:30

2013

Circuit Center

In advance

vip HouR

BENEFITING:

fast lane

South Side â&#x20AC;˘ 5 Hot Metal St. For more information and ticket purchases, please visit www.pghyrugby.com

CraftPittsburgh.com

HOME BREWING

DECOCTION MASHING By Brian Reed

ew words strike fear in to the heart of a homebrewer like “decoction.”

For the uninitiated, decoction is a mashing process which allows the brewer to conduct a step mash without heating the mash tun or introducing more water. So for the majority of all-grain brewers who mash in a cooler, bucket, pot, bathtub, kettle drum, hollowed-out tree trunk, or any other mash tun-like apparatus that is otherwise designed only for single-infusion mashing, you may choose to conduct a decoction in order to achieve multiple, ascending temperature rests. The process is relatively simple but notoriously labor-intensive on the homebrew scale. The basic idea involves removing approximately 1/3 of your mash, placing it in a different pot and heating it independently to the proper conversion temp, then boiling it (stirring constantly to avoid scorching the mash) then returning it to the rest of the mash; effectively raising the temperature of the entire mash to the next desired rest temperature. The process is obviously time-consuming and, depending on your personal level of physical fitness, it can be quite strenuous. It is important to note that when collecting a 1/3 of your mash for decoction, you should collect a relatively thick portion—meaning, the amount of liquid should not cover the grain, but rather barely come up to the surface level of the grain. This process can (and oftentimes should) be repeated multiple times to achieve multiple, desired step-mash temperatures. A triple decoction step schedule is generally the most common/traditional depending on what you are trying to take away from the process. So, why in hell would one commit to a process which requires the removal gallons of scalding hot mash, stirring by hand for extended periods of time (undoubtedly doing irreparable damage to one’s rotator cuff), and effectively adding 1-2 hours to the brew day? Most likely because your parents locked you in the tool shed for days-on-end as a child; however, there are also a number of perfectly sensible reasons to conduct a decoction mash—a few of which are commonly debated on brewing blogs and discussion boards (mainly, the topic is whether or not the labor intensive process is worthwhile for some styles, recipes, etc.). We have briefly discussed the first rationale for decocting—achieving the next rest temperature in your mash without additional water or heating your mash tun directly. This process is often the only method by which to conduct a step mash as many of us simply do not have the capability to do so otherwise.

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Another reason is that boiling the grain essentially breaks up the unconverted starch molecules and achieves a higher level of extraction. This reason is less relevant when working with modern, highly modified malts; however, styles and recipes which traditionally use a decoction also generally call for the use of less modified base malts [e.g. Moravian Pilsener Malt (which is often floor-malted) in a Bohemian or Czech-style Pilsener]. If authenticity and/ or using traditional methods to achieve stylistic accuracy are priorities for you, you should then, by all means, care.

Probably the most debated rationale is the process’s contribution to the overall flavor profile of the beer. Boiling the mash results in Maillard or browning reactions (a chemical reaction resulting from the heating of sugars and proteins in the moist environment of the mash) in the beer which add to the overall complexity and depth of malt character than the beer displays. Many argue that these same characteristics can be achieved through the use of modern specialty grains. Others insist that through a decoction is the only manner in which one can achieve the distinct characteristics of many classic German and continental European styles. I am a firm believer in decoctions, but if you would like to hear both sides of the argument ad nauseam, then check out the seemingly infinite number of online threads devoted to the debate.

Czech-Style Pilsener Batch Size – 6 gallon Boil Time – 90 min. OG – 1.045 FG – 1.008 ABV – 4.8% IBU – 35-40

*Assuming 72% efficiency

GRAINBILL

10 lbs. Moravian Pilsener Malt *German or even American Pils malt can be substituted if need be, but will detract from the authenticity of the recipe (if you care about that sort of thing).

HOPS

0.6 oz. Magnum (14% AA) – 90 min. 1 oz. Saaz (4% AA) – 20 min. 1 oz. Saaz (4% AA) – 10 min.

MASH

Triple decoction step mash schedule/instructions - Acid rest: Mash-in at 95 degrees F. Rest for 15 min. - Decoction #1: Pull 1/3 of mash as discussed. Raise to 150 degrees. Kill heat and let rest for 15-20 min. Return to heat, raise to boil. Boil for 15-30 min. *Be sure to stir constantly while on heat. - Protein/Beta Glucan rest: Return 1st decoction to the rest of the mash. Stir in thoroughly until you land on approximately 122-125 degrees F. Rest for 15-30 min. - Decoction #2: Same process as Decoction #1. - Saccharification rest: Return 2nd decoction to the rest of the mash. Stir in thoroughly until you land on approximately 149 degrees F. Rest for 30 min. - Decoction #3: Same process as Decoction #2, but holding at 150 degrees for 15-20 min is not necessary. - Mash-out: Return 3rd decoction to the rest of the mash. Stir in thoroughly until you land on approximately 170 degrees F. This will halt enzymatic activity. No rest is necessary. - Sparge/lauter as normal.

YEAST/FERMENTATION

White Labs WLP800- Pilsner Lager Yeast or Wyeast 2001-Urquell Lager Primary Fermentation: 14 days @ 48-52 degrees Lager for 8-12 weeks CraftPittsburgh.com

COOKING WITH BEER

CRÈME BRÛLÉE Ingredients By Mindy Heisler-Johnson

all. Cooler temperatures, falling leaves, cinnamon, apples, and PUMPKIN. I love pumpkin desserts. And I love so many of the spiced seasonal ales. It just seemed natural to find a way to put those together into some awesome!

Pumpkin and its related spices - cinnamon, ginger, allspice - are all bold flavors, so a spiced beer is perfect compliment. For this recipe I got my hands on Hoppin’ Frog’s Frog’s Hollow Double Pumpkin Ale. It’s heavily spiced with a nice malt background and a mild pumpkin-y flavor with little to no hop character. Like most pumpkin or holiday ales, it’s a perfect match. The pumpkin flavor isn’t the focus. The spice is. So any holiday ale will work perfectly. It’s the hops you have to watch out for with this recipe. Crème Brûlée is a baked custard, creamy and delicate, topped with a layer of caramelized sugar; This particular crème brûlée is flavored with pumpkin puree, spiced ale, cinnamon, and allspice blended with a cream cheese custard. It’s bright without being heavy and the sugar crust is reminiscent of a candy apple, another fall favorite of mine! I also love that I can taste the beer. In so many ‘beer desserts’ the beer is lost. Here you catch it in the end after the creaminess and it’s near perfect. Crème brûlée is baked at a low temperature in a water-bath until it is just barely set. To test if it’s done gently jiggle your ramekin, the creme is done when the center jiggles like loose Jell-O, no matter how big or small, deep or shallow your vessel. This is the trickiest part, but the end result well worth the effort. The candied top can be done by hand with a hand torch or under a broiler. I use my torch, starting with a thin layer of sugar and slowing turning the creme in front of the flame to get an amber sugar crust on the top. If you want, add a second layer for a thicker candy crust, but watch to not burn the sugar. With a broiler, top it with a layer of sugar and keep an eye on it. The sugar can go from caramel to charred in seconds. The idea is to do it quick, though. You don’t want to reheat the custard. Let the sugar cool and harden before garnishing. These are topped with a simple chantilly cream and ginger snap cookie.

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Makes 6 - 8oz ramekins (6 cups total) • 8oz cream cheese, softened • 1 cup heavy cream • 1 cup spiced beer of your choice with little or no hops • 1 ½ c pumpkin puree (NOT PIE FILLING) • 4 each eggs • ½ c light brown sugar • ¼ c granulated sugar • 1 Tbsp vanilla extract • ½ tsp cinnamon • ½ tsp allspice Heat your oven to 300 degrees and place ramekins in a deep baking dish that can be filled to halfway up the sides of each with water. Place the cream cheese, cream, and beer in a saucepot and bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring often to melt the cream cheese. When the cream is heated add the pumpkin and whisk in until completely incorporated. Bring back up to a simmer and just keep stirring. While the cream is heating whisk together the eggs, sugars, vanilla, and spices until completely combined. Set on a damp towel to hold it steady for the next step. When the pumpkin cream is heated, slowly temper into the egg mixture, whisking the cream into the eggs to slowly bring the temperature of the eggs up and avoid scrambling them. Once all of the cream is incorporated, taste and add more spice if needed (this will depend on the beer you’ve selected). Slowly fill the molds with 1 cup of the creme mix. It should evenly fill 6 - 8oz ramekins. Fill the pan with warm water until it comes around half way up the sides of the ramekins. GENTLY transfer to the heated oven - water is the mortal enemy of the crème brûlée; It cannot get into the mixture at all. Bake for 50-60 minutes. The cremes are done when they are gently jiggled and the center is like loose Jell-O. Remove from the oven and let sit on the counter until the molds are cool enough to touch. Then, get them into the fridge to cool completely. Caramelize each with a layer of sugar right before serving. These can be made a few days ahead and held until you are ready for it. I highly recommend the ginger snap cookies, crumbled or whole; They are a perfect match!

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Craft Pittsburgh | Issue 12