CraftPittsburgh Issue #39 by CraftPittsburgh

cooking with beer • homebrewing • upcoming events • the hoppy couple • have you tried...

table of contents editorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s notes upcoming events pittsburgh libations week fresh fest beer business chronicles - jon benedict good vibes festival

hoppy couple - stout pub and kitchen pin pals - women of the beer industry plates & pints - merchant oyster co. have you tried ... brewer sit-down - al grasso homebrewing - sean kinnas interview

cooking with beer - bacon-wrapped bbq meatloaf

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5. 6. 9. 12. 16. 20. 24. 26. 32. 36. 40. 42. 44.

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staff

beer

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l l & R e S TA U

PUBLISHER

P•Scout Media, LLC

EXECUTIVE EDITOR

Rob Soltis rob@craftpittsburgh.com

head

CraftPittsburgh | issue #39

our waY! one of america’s most award-winning breweries!

MANAGING EDITOR

Mike Weiss mike@craftpittsburgh.com

COPY EDITOR

Jason Cercone, Nathan Stimmel

SALES DIRECTOR

Tom Garzarelli tom@craftpittsburgh.com

CONTRIBUTORS Joe Tammariello, Brian Conway, Amanda Stein, Mindy Heisler-Johnson, Hart Johnson, Jack Smith, Kristy Locklin, Jason Cercone, Tom Marshall

PHOTOGRAPHERS Jeff Zoet, Buzzy Torek

CREATIVE

Soltis Design soltisdesign.com

COVER PHOTO Buzzy Torek - Voodoo Good Vibes Festival

FOR INFORMATION ON CONTRIBUTING EDITORIAL CONTENT OR PLACING DISPLAY ADVERTISING PLEASE CONTACT US AT INFO@CRAFTPITTSBURGH.COM Craft Pittsburgh is issued bi-monthly by P•Scout Media, LLC for readers of legal drinking age. All information and materials in this magazine, individually and collectively, are provided for informational purposes. The contents of this magazine do not necessarily reflect the views and policies of P•Scout Media, LLC., nor does the mention of trade names or commercial products constitute endorsement or recommendation for use. No portion of this magazine may be reproduced in whole or part without expressed written permission from the publisher. Advertisements are subject to the approval of P•Scout Media, LLC. P•Scout Media, LLC. reserves the right to reject or omit any advertisement at any time for any reason. Advertisers assume responsibility and complete liability for all content in their ads.

• "Your cavalier attitude about almost burning the house down doesn't sit well with me." • "My second DUI judge said I was a functioning alcoholic" • "Screws are kind of just flamboyant nails" • "How many beers did you drink tonight, Buzzy?" "About one thousand." • "...You know, Clearfield Crystal, the meth dealer." • "I'm kind of a barsexual." • "People love hiding their trash cans." • "People in the suburbs are really concerned about ceiling height." • "I don't know what a 401k is, but I feel like most of the responsible people I know have one."

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Last issue we posted a playlist curated by our Managing Editor and company liability Mike Weiss. People actually liked it. So we decided to turn this section over to him again for something he's calling "Funny things I've overheard in bars while drinking alone." Apparently he's been keeping a weird little note book for years now that's just page after page of funny things he overhears. I'm not sure if it's creepy or genius. Let us know what you think, maybe we'll make it a regular thing.

mon

Mike is listening.

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editor’s notes

crazy good

pub grub

• "This beer tastes like Youngstown weed." • "This is not the kind of song I'm trying to binge drink to." • "Middle class millionaire."

NOW IN 6-PACKS!

• " When did just being a perfect example of a style stop being enough to make a beer great?" • "Bus stop beef jerky is the best." • "I'm no Bob Villa, but that looks sketchy as hell." • "I'm driving the four door sedan of sadness out there." • "Who am I to ask where that person's pants are?" • "I'm looking for a weekend that lowers my Uber rating." • "He's like a raccoon, cute on the outside and just all garbage on the inside." • "If my truck doesn't impress you, my personality probably won't either."

1805 E. CARSON ST. PITTSBURGH PA, 15203

Cheers,

CALL FOR TAKEOUT 412.431.7433 Rob Soltis

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upcoming events

Visit CraftPittsburgh.com/calendar for the most comprehensive and up-to-date list of local beer events. September • 15 Steel City Big Pour 12 @ Construction Junction • 21-23 & 28-30 Oktoberfest @ Penn Brewery • 21-29 Greensburg Craft Beer Week @ Greensburg • 21 Rock'em Sock'em Tournament @ Fury Brewing • 21 Rocktoberfest Tapping Party @ Rock Bottom • 22 Pumking Fest @ Southern Tier - Pittsburgh • 22 Food Truck Rally @ Voodoo - Homestead • 22 Harvest Brew Fiesta @ Mad Mex - Robinson • 22 Craft Lager Fest @ Lavery Brewing - Erie • 22 6th Annual TapFest @ Double Wide - Mars • 22 Brews in the Park @ Kennywood • 22 Brewing Up a Cure @ PPG Wintergarden • 23 Beach Party @ Elwood's Pub • 23 Pig Roast @ Spoonwood • 23 Wine & Brew for the Rescue • 24 • 27 • 29 • 29 • 29 • 30 • 30

@ Four Season's Lodge, Brady's Run Park Oktoberfest Beer Dinner @ Cinderlands OctChamberfest @ Quinn Brewing OktoberQuest Northside Bicycle/Brewery Tour Breaktoberfest 2018 @ Breakneck Tavern The Birthday Party @ Dancing Gnome Brewers Double Dare @ All Saints Brewing Septoberfest Cornhole Tournament @ Spoonwood

October

CraftPittsburgh | issue #39

• 5 Oktoberfest @ Cellar Works Brewing • 6 Drunkin Punkin Fest @ Hough's Taproom • 12 Pittsburgh Libations Week Kickoff Bash @ Nova Place • 13 PGH Craft Beer Society Charity Golf Scramble

@ Moon Golf Club • 13 Maggie's Farm 5th Anniversary @ Maggie's Farm • 12-20 Pittsburgh Libations Week @ Pittsburgh • 13 Pumpkinfest 7 @ Under the Homestead Grays Bridge • 14 Smoketoberfest 5 @ Roundabout Brewery • 20 Brewtal Beer Fest 3 @ Mr. Smalls Theatre • 26 PGH Whiskey Festival 18 @ Rivers Casino

November • 9 Supply Teachers with Supplies @ The Beerhive

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He’s back, and this year, it's a family affair. Look for Pumking and Warlock alongside Cold Press Coffee Pumking and Rum Barrel Aged Pumking in stores and on draught.

CraftPittsburgh | issue #39

New for 2018 is the limited release, draught-only Chai Tea-Infused Pumking.

Often imitated, never duplicated. LONG LIVE THE ‘KING!

BREWED & BOTTLED BY SOUTHERN TIER BREWING COMPANY | LAKEWOOD, NEW YORK | VISIT OUR PITTSBURGH TAPROOM at 316 NORTH SHORE DRIVE #PUMKING | READ MORE: PUMKING.BEER | STBCBEER.COM

PITTSBURGH LIBATIONS WEEK Celebrating Pittsburghâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Entire Adult Beverage Community

Pittsburgh's adult beverage scene has become something of epic proportions. Many who have traveled to other drinking destinations in the country have discovered that while each has its own unique charms, Pittsburgh stacks up to their offerings and then some. Think about it. New breweries offering distinct styles and cuisine and environments are opening in neighborhoods all over our region. Distilleries are getting national recognition and winning awards for their liquid at every turn. Same with meaderies and wineries and cider houses.

This was the inspiration for Pittsburgh Libations Week, a new initiative set to unfold October 12th through October 20th throughout the Pittsburgh region. Jason Cercone, founder of Breaking Brews and Pittsburgh Libations Week, defines it as a celebration of Pittsburgh's entire adult beverage culture. Cercone and the rest of the team bringing PLW to life are focusing on aspects that truly drive the libations industry forward.

And that's just the producers. Let's not forget what bars and restaurants are doing to feature these tasty beverages. Diverse tap menus and elaborate cocktails and talented, knowledgeable servers and bartenders ready to drop some product knowledge at a moment's notice. Beer dinners and wine dinners and whiskey dinners. Oh my.

Cercone's entry into the industry was not your typical story. In fact, it was more being in the right place at the right time, he explained. He was enjoying East End Brewing's Big Hop at Beer Market (now known as Beerhead) before a Pirates game in the Fall of 2013 when a gentleman made his way to the bar and asked for a Miller Lite. After being told that beer wasn't served, he got visibly upset and asked for a Bud Light. You can imagine his reaction when he was told he couldn't get that beer either because they didn't carry it. The bartender attempted to make suggestions for him to try instead, but he was having none of it.

With all this evolution and forward movement in the adult beverage industry, one thing Pittsburgh was missing was a platform to showcase these tremendous advancements collectively. There have been several events and organizations focused on one particular beverage, but PA law changes have led to co-mingling and collaboration among breweries and distilleries, wineries and breweries, meaderies and breweries, and every other combination you can assemble. It makes sense to bring it all together for one collaborative celebration.

After finally settling on a Yuengling, the gentleman turned to Cercone and said the statement that got everything started: How in the hell does this place think it's going to survive without Miller Lite and Bud Light? "By this point, you couldn't move in there," Cercone said with a laugh. "My response was 'Look around, man. This place is packed and they don't serve food. I think they're doing something right with the beer.' He didn't care for my response and walked away. As I pondered the exchange, it made me realize there are probably a lot of people out there who think the same way. They know certain brands they grew up on, but aren't willing to try other options because they go outside their comfort zone. I thought, 'maybe there's room for something that doesn't necessarily focus on beer reviews, but more about culture, education, events, and products available. It would be approachable and give people a resource they could rely on.' The rest is history. I guess I owe that guy and his ridiculous comment a beer." Five months later, Breaking Brews was born. The site took off quickly. As time went on, Cercone began working with several bars, restaurants, breweries, and distilleries to tell their stories, promote their events, build their brands, and get their products available in more locations. "I think Breaking Brews has been a success because I support everyone," Cercone said. "Everything we are dealing with here is subjective. Your favorite brewery may be one I don't

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And let's also not forget the wholesalers and distributors. As magnificent as the adult beverages being produced in the confluence of the Steel City have become, the shape of Pittsburgh's drinking scene has also been molded by the companies bringing in products from around the world for you and I to enjoy. These hardworking men and women bust their asses every day to ensure our palates are challenged, our intrigue is piqued, and our glasses forever overflow with the sweet, sweet nectar of potables from all corners of the planet.

"Our initiative is built on the concepts of fun, education, community, camaraderie, and effective communication between businesses and enthusiasts," Cercone said. "We've got a ton to be proud of in Pittsburgh; we want to do our part to shine a spotlight on as much of that progress and development as we can. From the makers, to the wholesalers, to the sales forces, to the bars and restaurants, to the media, to every single enthusiast who supports the industry, we want to celebrate what these hardworking men and women do to keep us well-imbibed and what our collective population does to make Pittsburgh stand out. We are here to spread the word that Pittsburgh is the ultimate drinking destination in Pennsylvania and beyond."

care for. I could say the beer I'm drinking is the greatest creation known to man and you would rather slam your fingers in a car door than drink it. The subjective nature of this industry is what makes it so great. There's something for everyone out there. I can give my opinion about a beverage, but I encourage everyone to try it themselves and draw their own conclusions." As the libations landscape evolved, Cercone began to set his sights on how everything could be celebrated. Businesses across all plains were working collectively and that cohesiveness was something he wanted to amplify. The idea for Pittsburgh Libations Week was to showcase the growth and success of the industry as a whole. As Cercone says, the focus is not just for a nineday period in the fall. It's about what's happening year-round. "The businesses that make this industry tick are not open for just nine days a year," Cercone said. "Therefore, a platform that supports them can't just show up for nine days and call it quits. My team and I are building a support system that's part of the scene 365 days a year. You can call our actual week of events and celebration the 'Super Bowl,' but I like to think we are part of the landscape from the start of the season to the end." Pittsburgh Libations Week is not just about building community; it's about giving back to it as well. PLW has partnered with Lending Hearts, a local nonprofit organization dedicated to raising funds and awareness for pediatric cancer. A portion of all sponsorships and event revenue are going directly to Lending Hearts. Thanks to the generosity of enthusiasts who have attended events and sponsors who have joined the PLW initiative, they have raised nearly $1,500 to date and Libations Week hasn't even taken place yet!

CraftPittsburgh | issue #39

"We can't thank the community who has joined our initiative enough," Cercone proclaimed. "We couldn't do this without their support and it's great to know our efforts are raising money for such a great cause. I can't wait to see the final number!"

Pittsburgh Libations Week will begin in grand fashion with the inaugural Kickoff Bash Craft Beverage Fest taking place Friday, October 12th from 6-10pm at Nova Place. This venue was home to the first-ever Fresh Fest and the Pittsburgh Brewers Guild's Brewery Guide Launch in August. Cercone is looking forward to bringing another successful event to Nova Place. "We have beer, cider, mead, spirits, food trucks, a DJ, cornhole, and more... all under one roof," Cercone said. "What's not to love about that?! It's the ultimate showcase of all adult beverages here in Pittsburgh. No matter what you love to drink, chances are you're going to find it at the Pittsburgh Libations Week Kickoff Bash." Tickets for the Kickoff Bash are currently available at universe.com/ plwkickoffbash. The ticket page will also help you discover who's lined up to be pouring at the event and secure your spot for, as Cercone puts it, "The Event That's Starting It All." Throughout Libations Week, several events will be held that focus on the aforementioned cornerstones of fun and education. A golf scramble, whiskey dinner, cooperage building demonstration, mead dinner, whiskey and beer symposiums, a heavy metal beer and bowling night, craft beer trivia, and much more are all lined up to unfold. You can keep track of events at pittsburghlibationsweek.com and on their Facebook page - @ pghlibationsweek. There will also be printable PDFs of each day's activities available just prior to the start of the Week. All in all, it's a great time to be alive if you're an enthusiast of the drink. In the Pittsburgh region, as far as we have come, it seems like the party is just getting started. Pittsburgh Libations Week is less than a month away. Get your shoes shined and your party hats dry-cleaned...October 12th through 20th is going to be a damn good time!

PAIRS WELL WITH NOW | TROEGS.COM/FOODNOTES |

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ReFRESHing FOR DRINKERS WHO THINK THE CITY’S BEER EVENTS HAVE GOTTEN A LITTLE STALE, FRESH FEST WAS A BREAK FROM THE NORM.

HELD ON AUG. 11 AT NOVA PLACE AND ALLOY 26 ON THE NORTH SIDE, THE CELEBRATION OF BLACK BREWERS WAS THE FIRST OF ITS KIND IN THE NATION. ORGANIZERS DAY BRACEY AND ED BAILEY—HOSTS OF THE POPULAR PODCAST “DRINKING PARTNERS”—AND MIKE POTTER OF THE ONLINE MAGAZINE BLACK BREW CULTURE, WERE EXPECTING 700 GUESTS. MORE THAN 1,200 SHOWED UP. By Kristy Locklin

CraftPittsburgh.com

“We were hoping that 10 to 20 percent of the crowd would be black, but it was a 50/50 mix; a nice rainbow of people,” Bracey says. “At most beer festivals, there is only a two percent minority attendance, but this was extremely integrated. The brews were amazing and people seemed to be enjoying themselves.” Pittsburgh’s craft brewery scene is exploding, with 17 new ones opening up just last year, but none of them are owned by African-Americans. Fresh Fest organizers are hoping to change that statistic by opening up the conversation. A unique aspect of the festival was the partnership between local brewers, black artists, and entrepreneurs to make collaboration beers to share at the event. Potter joined forces with East End brewers Brendan Benson, Scott Smith, and Joe Green to create For The Culture – a new, dry style known as a Brut IPA. VIP attendees received a 16-oz. can of the “anti-haze” beer in their Fresh Fest swag bag and four-packs were sold at East End’s brewpub in Larimer and its Strip District taproom.

CraftPittsburgh | issue #39

Another interesting concoction included the Double Black Diamond, a hazy, black IPA made by Allegheny City Brewing and Dennis Guy of First Sip Brew Box.

“We met Day and Mike early on and Fresh Fest just made sense to us,” says Matthew Yurkovich, co-owner of Allegheny City Brewing on the North Side. “Anything we can do to meet more people and get them involved in craft beer. We always learn new things.” Bloom Brew in West Newton, Pa., and Cocoprenuer whipped up a barbecue-sauce based elixir that fell somewhere between a Bloody Mary and a beer, while Alisa Bowens-Mercado of Rhythm Brewing Co. – the first black, female-owned brewery in Connecticut – introduced her unfiltered, American-style lager brewed with South African hops. “We’re bringing lagers back,” says Bowens-Mercado, who added that she conducted four years of research before finalizing her lager recipe. Bracey says black brewers from all over the world are contacting him in hopes of being involved in the next Fresh Fest, which is tentatively scheduled for August 2019 at Nova Place with more food trucks and more musical acts. In the meantime, organizers plan to hold meet-the-brewer events throughout the year in predominately black neighborhoods to teach people about beer styles, the brewing process and how to transform a homebrewing hobby into a career.

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“You’ll get little tasters, a little education, and a little conversation,” Bracey says. “We want these conversations and relationships to continue after the event.”

BEER BUSINESS CHRONICLES

Words Jason Cercone

KINGS OF THEIR OWN

BACKYARD SOUTH HILLS BREWING SUPPLY & COUNTRY WINES LEAD THE CHARGE IN PITTSBURGHâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S HOMEBREWING REVOLUTION

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There's no denying what homebrewing has done for the craft beer industry. Thousands of brewers across the country creating innovative, awardwinning beers on systems of all shapes and sizes are all bonded together by the common thread of bringing their first beer to life in a garage, bathtub, or a studio apartment kitchen. It started out as a passionate hobby. Then it went viral. And, as legend says: If you can turn a passionate hobby into a career, you've got it made in the shade.

It's hard to imagine a time when craft beer couldn't be found on seemingly every corner in every neighborhood in the city. But these times existed and, according to Jon Benedict, owner/founder of South Hills Brewing Supply and owner of Country Wines, the only way to get "good beer" in those dark times was to make it yourself. Benedict not only learned to do that, but created an avenue that allowed others to do the same. Here in Pittsburgh, South Hills Brewing Supply and Country Wines are the quintessential go-tos for making your own beer and wine at home. Their personal touch and dedication to each customer, in addition to competitive pricing, has kept them ahead of the curve as massive corporate conglomerates that will remain unnamed have tried to corner the home brewing market. They have a small online presence and deliver

the convenience of ordering online, but prefer to focus on the face-to-face aspect that makes this industry so much fun. "Just like homebrewing, it's better when you're with people and having conversations," Benedict proclaimed. I can vouch. Despite my love and passion for this industry, I never dove into homebrewing. So one of the first questions I asked when I sat down with Benedict and Steve Bourdeau, Manager of Country Wines, was the difference between extract and all-grain brewing. The metaphor they gave me was perfect. "With extract brewing, most of the complicated work has already been done," Benedict explained. "It's like making spaghetti. You can do everything from scratch with all-natural ingredients or you can buy a box of pasta already done. All-grain brewing is cheaper by ingredients per batch, but you'll invest much more time (on average, five hours to produce an all-grain batch vs. one to two hours for extract)." As you'll learn as we dive deeper into the conversation, Benedict and Bourdeau feel extract brewing is a great way to start your homebrewing adventure. Learn aspects like temperature control, sanitizing, and yeast selection before investing in more expensive equipment. As Benedict

points out, extract brewing will help you "get your feet wet and advance at your own pace without getting frustrated." If you've had your finger on the trigger about entering the world of homebrewing, let the words of true professionals dedicated to building our local homebrewing scene nudge you in a good direction. Give us some background about South Hills Brewing Supply and Country Wines. I started South Hills Brewing Supply with two partners back in 1994. We had a small, 500-square-foot shop in Green Tree down the street from our current location on Noblestown Road. In 1997, I took over full ownership of the company and, by 2003, we were ready to expand into a much bigger space - our current 3,000 square-foot shop. I purchased Country Wines in 2007. They were our biggest competition and had been going strong since 1972 on Babcock Boulevard. Naturally, their focus was on wine, but they started incorporating homebrewing supplies when it was legalized in 1978. We also expanded east and had a location in Monroeville from 2009 to 2014 and also moved Country Wines to a 7,000-squarefoot location in 2014 as well. What trends have surprised you the most as the homebrewing scene has evolved? The hop shortage of 2008 was an unfortunate circumstance that home and professional brewers turned into a fantastic opportunity. If not for the shortage of common hops, we may never have seen the development and use of some of the greatest hops to grace a pint glass. Brewers were painted into a corner and forced to these "weird" hops no one had ever heard of before. Could you imagine if we never would've been introduced to Galaxy, Mandarina Bavaria, Citra, or Amarillo hops? Utilizing these new hops started a trend of experimentation that led brewers to go beyond just the hops. Fruits, spices, and herbs started to join the party. Cloudy beers, bitter beers, sour beers, beers that look like orange juice, and beer with little green specks became commonplace. With some enzyme experimentation, we have beer that finishes as dry as wine. It's amazing to see how it's all evolved from a situation that could've spelled disaster for the industry.

There has definitely been an increase. We've been able to grow the size of both our locations in recent years, so that says a lot. I think as more information has become available to people, alongside more beers on the shelves to try, it's led some consumers to ask themselves "Can

CraftPittsburgh.com

With the rise in popularity of craft beer and wine, have you seen an increase in foot traffic for those looking to make their own products at home?

I do this, too?". Many of our customers are very hands-on in nature. A good percentage of them talk about other passions in their life, such as cooking. This type of focus and pride in what they're doing lends very well to the home brewing world. How strongly do you feel homebrewing has influenced the rise of craft beer? Ha, seriously? I think the answer is pretty obvious here. Do you have a lot of customers with aspirations to go professional in brewing or are they looking to do this strictly as a hobby? It all just depends on how much time people devote to it. Some do it occasionally, some every weekend. We've had many of our customers find a ton of success in homebrewing, then move on to start their own breweries and make beer professionally. Chris Brunetti from Helicon Brewing was a homebrew customer for many years, as was Adam Boura of the recently opened Four Points Brewing. Shawn Setzenfand and Galen Osby, who worked with Steve at Country Wines, are now Head Brewer and Assistant Brewer at Hofbrauhaus. It's great to see so many passionate brewers take their craft to the next level. Give us an idea of a typical customer at your store in 2018 and how does that differ from a customer that visited you when you first opened.

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In 1994, if you wanted good beer, your only choice was to brew it yourself. There wasn't a huge presence of craft beer and distribution from craft breweries that were up and running was very light. Beers like Anchor Steam and Sam Adams come to mind and imports were available, too. But long travel times in potential high temperatures and questionable

freshness made choosing beer somewhat of a challenge. Beers like Heineken, Beck's, and St. Pauli Girl may have been fresh, but they didn't really push the envelope in regards to style. On the off chance you found an IPA, stout, or porter, age was also an issue. Today, everyone has hundreds of beers at their disposal. But homebrewers still like to make their own product and they're proud of their final creations. If I'm just getting into homebrewing and I visit your store, what sort of questions should I ask to get the ball rolling? For starters, don't be intimidated by all the information out there. Don't be afraid to tell us you're brand new to this and you want to get started the right way. We'll be happy to point you in the right direction. Not only do we want you to succeed in your homebrewing journey, we want you to have fun while you're doing it. What's the best piece of advice you could give anyone who's thinking about homebrewing? The best advice I can give is to just do it. Give it a try and see if it's for you. The second best advice I can give is unless you are under the tutelage of an experienced brewer, start at the beginning. A starter kit and a batch with extract and specialty grains is a great introduction. Sure, you can get "fancy" with all-grain brewing, burners, pumps, and valves. But get a few batches under your belt first. This way, you have some beer to drink while you contemplate what advancements, if any, you'd like to make.

Jason Cercone is the founder of Breaking Brews and is the executive director of Pittsburgh Libations Week. Learn more by visiting breakingbrews.com.

COME SEE WHAT’S

BREWING BUFFALO

With 30+ craft breweries, locally grown hops, and one of the world’s great lakes in our backyard, it’s a wonder you didn’t stop by to wet your whistle sooner. Come see what’s on tap. And while you’re here, check out beer’s

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best friend on the Buffalo Wing Trail!

CraftPittsburgh | issue #39

Words Brian Conway Photos Buzzy Torek

Good Vibrations,

What Elation It's 8:42 one humid July morning and I’m wedged between some coolers and craft beer bros in the back of an SUV barreling north on I-80 toward Meadville, the site of one of the most anticipated beer festivals in recent memory: good vibes presented by Voodoo Brewery. Most beer fests distinguish themselves with quantity: put 50, 60, or 100+ globo-corporate brewsidiaries in a park somewhere and watch the money pile up.

else uses that term, but what we assembled here is 30 of literally the best breweries in the world.” The decision to showcase the “best of the best” breweries won over my traveling companions, most of whom were giddy with excitement. Tickets, at $125 apiece, were easily double that of typical beer festivals, but they had no doubt they’d get their money’s worth of rare and delicious beers. In the months leading up to good vibes, Voodoo whipped up anticipation by announcing participating breweries in batches over social media, then had us foaming at the mouth again by announcing each brewery’s beer list, giving beer nerds plenty of time to research the breweries, their brews, and assemble their game day strategy accordingly.

But this is no ordinary beer fest…and Voodoo is no ordinary brewery. Originally planned as a hybrid music and beer festival, the owners soon realized the focus could only be one thing: celebrating and sharing world-class beer.

Three styles were present above all: Breweries like de Garde and Casa Agria brought fruited wild ales, lambics and sours, while the Mores and Angry Chairs of the world brought along huge, fudgy barrel-aged stouts. Others, like Narrow Gauge and Finback, rolled in with some of the freshest, haziest IPAs known to mankind.

“I often refer to them as 'ultra-premium breweries,'” says one of Voodoo's principal owners, Jake Voelker. “I don't know if anyone

Good vibes lasted just one session, from 12pm to 3pm. The 32 participating breweries were lined up alphabetically on one side of a

long single row of tables, with Voodoo positioned at the end. One of the first people I spoke with was Magnus Björnstjerna, operations and production manager for Sweden's Omnipollo Brewery. Dressed in a romper patterned with pineapple skulls, Björnstjerna was tinkering with a slushy machine for a frozen version of their Gideon's Pancake Stout, filling the area with the sweet smell of maple in the process. Björnstjerna says he has gotten to know Voodoo and their head brewer, Curt Rachocki, through other beer fests, like when they poured next to each other at Mikkeller Beer Celebration Copenhagen this May. “Personally, Voodoo is one of the breweries, like De Molen in the Netherlands, or Kuhnhenn back in the day, they've always been, to me, the founders of craft beer today,” said Björnstjerna. “I don't think there's been a beer fest in a very long time with this caliber of breweries in the same spot.” Others had more intimate connections. Zac Ross, head brewer at Kent Falls, moved to Meadville at age 12 and studied writing at Allegheny College while working as a jack-of-all-trades at Voodoo. His parents were on hand to pour for Kent Falls, the first farmhouse-style brewery in Connecticut. “This is unbelievable,” Ross said. “Growing up in Meadville, if you told me in a few years some of the best brewers in the world would be coming here to pour at a festival, I would have laughed in your face.” The fest was a boon for Meadville, not only in hotel sales but in related revenue generated by all the tourists and visiting brewers. Voelker says they tried to incorporate as much Meadville and Western PA culture into the stay as possible, from taking brewers on horse-drawn buggy rides to offering venison jerky and other local fare at brewer meals. “We needed it to work here,” said Voelker. “This is our home base. This is where we have our roots. The Meadville community is really important to us.” At noon, fireworks and a small cannon explode. The rush is on. The beer is flowing. First in line was Stephen Poster of Jefferson Hills. He had the option to choose from 90+ beers from 30+ world-class breweries, and where did he end up first? At Voodoo, for a pour of 2 Live Gran Cru Greatest Hits Volume 1, a blend of Big Black Voodoo Daddy and Black Magick aged in Pappy Van Winkle Barrels for 15 months. Others lined up right behind him for a taste of other cherished stouts, like Zangief and ManBearPig. Asked about this, Voelker reflected, then composed himself: “It's amazing. We never would have thought [...] it’s not even about that. It’s just awesome. It's so cool. It just goes to show that our production staff makes beer that is some of the most coveted liquid in the world.” Voelker spent the week “sleeping in a stupid tent” in the back of the Meadville production facility to make sure everything went off without a hitch, and as the afternoon progressed he finally had time to appreciate what his brewery has created.

CraftPittsburgh | issue #39

Early on, the longest lines seemed reserved for Voodoo and breweries that came from far away, like Belgian lambic and saison blendery Bokkeryder. But as the afternoon progressed, the lines evened out; there were more whales than Sea World and just not enough time to harpoon them all.

Despite the prominence of well-established breweries, there was still opportunity for surprises. Tampa’s Magnanimous Brewing, founded this year by Cycle and Coppertail Brewing alums Michael Lukacina and Charlie Meers, poured a mango milkshake IPA, Shatter Machine, they collaborated on with Voodoo. It was their very first beer. One attendee, Mike Maschio, of Ross Township, said he had been to festivals like Cigar City's Huna Day and Boston's Extreme Beer Fest, but good vibes was “legitimately on par with, if not better than, those experiences.” For those who missed it, Voelker offers consolation that planning for year two has already begun. It’s giving us excitations just to think about it.

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hoppy couple They use local spirits from distilleries around the area to make their signature cocktails. I noticed they had Full Pint’s “His Royal Dudeness” on tap. For the uninitiated, this is an imperial ‘white’ Russian stout because The Dude loved his White Russian cocktails in the cult classic ‘The Big Lebowski.’ Being one of my favorite movies, rest assured, I tried this Lebowski-themed beer.

Atmosphere

I think my favorite part of Stout was the half-inside, half-outside bar. The outside half abuts a large deck with outside tables and comfy sofas that surround propane-fed fire pits built right into the table, allowing for yearround, outside hanging. The bar staff was very friendly and our service was prompt and thorough. It will be an easy decision to catch some local beers outside this fall at Stout Pub & Kitchen.

Food

Keeping with the local theme, Stout offers a unique blend of contemporary English cuisine made with local ingredients. With dishes such as Smoked & Honey-Brined Pheasant and Roasted Portabella Ratatouille, there are quite a wide variety of items to choose from. We were there for brunch and I have to comment on their jams. I am a big lover all jellies, jams, spreads, butters, preserves, and marmalades, and the apple jam that came with my breakfast was a knockout. Next time we go I already know I want to try their Smoked Double Bone Pork Chop - saffron and apple poached fennel? Yeah, that’ll do.

Amanda Location

With seemingly endless places to shop in Robinson Town Centre, there’s finally a craft beer watering hole for weary shoppers to wet their whistle. Offering ice cold local pints to stressed-out spenders, Stout is a strip mall oasis. Tucked away up the hill by Target (don’t lie - you know exactly where I’m talking about fellow Target addicts), Stout is a nice, relaxing hideaway for you to take a break from your holiday shopping adventures.

Beer

Stout Pub & Kitchen 690 Chauvet Dr, PGH stoutpubpgh.com

Joe CraftPittsburgh | issue #39

Location

Stout Pub & Kitchen (Stout) is conveniently located in the Robinson Town Centre area West of Pittsburgh. Convenient because, well, there’s plenty of parking and lots of other places nearby. Maybe you are bored and want to argue with your significant other about armchair patterns at Ikea...or perhaps you want to relive your childhood at Main Event - a close by arcade and bowling mega-center. Whatever the case, you can certainly make a day of visiting Robinson Town Centre.

Beer

Stout has a mission and that mission is to deliver their customers nothing but the best local fare and libations. Their beer menu is bursting at the seams with local Pittsburgh and Pennsylvania beers. But that’s not all.

Stout prides themselves (and rightfully so) on their locally sourced...well, everything. With over a dozen taps that are always rotating, you’re sure to

t s e v r a H ! e Tim

STOP IN FOR

FALL

find something familiar and something new. During our visit, they had East End, Rusty Rail, Helicon, Arsenal, Full Pint, and more on tap, and their “coming soon” list had Pizza Boy, Eleventh Hour, Helltown, Hitchhiker, and ShuBrew to name a few. If local beer isn’t your thing, they have plenty of PA spirits for any cocktail you can imagine. Fun Fact: During our weekend brunch visit, they offered a mimosa flight with four 5oz. champagne glasses topped with mango, peach, pineapple, and strawberry banana juices. Like I said, you’ll find something you like there, for sure!

BREWS On the trail or in the woo ds, we’re here fo r your post ri de ... refreshments .

Atmosphere

Robinson Town Centre may be predominantly strip malls -- but once you’re in Stout, you sort of forget that. Stout has an industrial vibe with a bit of a high-end restaurant feel, too. When the weather is nice, you should definitely opt for the patio where they also have “doggy days” on Mondays. Beyond the standard Monday through Friday 4p-6p Happy Hour offerings, they also have a Reverse Happy Hour on Fridays and Saturdays from 10p to midnight which is a pretty great idea (for all you crazy night owls).

Food

Did we mention that Stout features local fare? Oh, we did? Well, it’s worth mentioning again (and again) because it’s something not many (if any) places in that area are doing. Stout uses ingredients from Jubilee Hilltop Ranch (Osterburg) and Jamison Farms (Latrobe), as well as ice cream from Pittsburgh’s own Millie’s Homemade Ice Cream. Stout also smokes and cures some of their meats themselves. From salads to sandwiches, from brunch to dinner, you can tell they put a lot of pride and care into each handcrafted dish they serve.

Made fresh everyday, be sure to try the one with peanut butter. Really!

a great sele ction of seasonal craf t beer on tap. Espe cially the local br ews.

Stout Pub & Kitchen is a new place with lots of exciting things going on. With the winter holidays looming, we are sure you will find yourself shopping and exploring the Robinson area. So like Amanda said, stop in to Stout for some refreshments along the way! The Hoppy Couple is one part Joe Tammariello and one part Amanda Stein. We don’t consider ourselves beer experts, but we spend a good bit of our free time exploring the city of Pittsburgh and sampling all of the food and drink it has to offer. Say “Cheers!” if you see us out!

north park boathouse • historic southside

otbbicyclecafe.com

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Summary

Words Tom Marshall Photos Jeff Zoet

10 Frames / 10 Beers LIGHT DARK LITTLE BIG PALE SOUR MALT WHEAT WILD CARD IMPORT

Rock Bottom Brewery

Cerveza de Oro

Mexican Lager

4.8% ABV

North Country Brewing

Buck Snort Stout

American Stout

7.0% ABV

Rhinegeist Brewery

Cougar

Blonde Ale

4.8% ABV

Lickinghole Creek

Vanilla Virginia Black Bear

Russian Imperial Stout

9.3% ABV

Three Floyd‘s Brewing

Zombie Dust

American Pale Ale

6.2% ABV

Rhinegeist Brewery

Metaphysical Mango

Barrel-Aged Fruited Sour Ale

6.75% ABV

Rock Bottom Brewery

Incline Red

Irish Red Ale

5.6% ABV

Burial Beer

Keeper’s Veil

Honey Saison

5.5% ABV

North Country Brewing

Lavender Abbey

Belgian-style Ale

7.0% ABV

De Brabandere Brouwerij

Petrus Aged Red

Fruited Pale Sour Ale

8.5% ABV

My name is Tom and I have been working in the craft beer industry in one capacity or another over the past six years. Pin Pals is a bi-monthly installment where I interview a veritable who's who of the craft beer world at a bowling alley. We drink beer, shoot the shit, and of course bowl. In this installment, we are bowling and chatting with Ali Wyrostek, Pennsylvania Sales Manager of Rhinegeist Brewery in Cincinnati; Lauren Baker, Production Manager of North Country Brewing in Slippery Rock; and Meg Evans, Head Brewer of Rock Bottom Brewery in Homestead about their roles in our local craft beer industry.

Ali: My name is Ali. I am 5’2”. I am very, very Polish. I work for Rhinegeist Brewery as the Pittsburgh Sales Manager. I have been working in the craft beer industry for five years, but I started drinking craft at 21. I worked at a wholesaler. I worked for Long Trail and Otter Creek for four years. I learned a lot and worked with some amazing people while selling some amazing beer. I am an avid runner, soccer player, and soccer watcher. I recently boxed and got punched in the face a whole bunch. I have two wonderful dogs at home, Chimay and Guinness. I have two degrees in history with a focus on the Holocaust, and I just bought a house in the Greenfield neighborhood of Pittsburgh. Lauren: My name is Lauren Baker. I am the production manager at North Country Brewing Company in Slippery Rock, Pennsylvania. I am originally from the Butler County area, but I was living in Texas for the past five years. I just moved back to Pennsylvania last summer to be closer to home and to work at North Country Brewing. I have been in the beer industry for the past four years and the service industry since I was thirteen. I worked as a sales rep in Texas for Upslope Brewing of Boulder, Colorado. I also worked for Karbach Brewing out of Houston, but AB InBev bought them out. I left them and went to work for the Collective Brewing Project of Fort Worth, Texas. I had interviewed with North Country Brewing about two years ago, but I ended up taking a job with Karbach in Austin, Texas. The owner of North Country called me back a year-and-a-half later asking if I would come work with him. I took the sales manager position, but we had our head brewer quit and the production manager became the head brewer. The owner knew that I wanted to get into the production side and gave me the opportunity. Meg: My name is Meg Evans and I am the head brewer at Rock Bottom in Homestead. I also coordinate and own Brewtal Beer Fest. I am married to James Evans, who is a brewer at Spoonwood Brewing Company in Bethel Park. I am thirty years old. I am a Sagittarius. I have been in the beer industry since 2010. I started from the ground up: gluing boxes, labeling bottles, and doing the grunt work at Southern Tier Brewing in Lakewood, New York. When I was working at Southern Tier, I decided I really wanted to keep pursuing a career in brewing and applied to Oregon State University’s Fermentation Science program. I got accepted and moved to

Lauren Baker, Meg Evans, and Ali Wyrostek

Oregon. Three months later, I moved back to western New York because Southern Tier decided I was worthy of a brewing job; I stayed there another ten months getting my hands dirty. I moved down to Pittsburgh and took a brewing job at Rivertowne Brewing Company. I stayed with them for a while until I moved on to Rock Bottom.

2) T o whom/what can you attribute your love of craft beer to?

Ali: I can attribute my love of craft beer to North Country Brewing. I went to Slippery Rock University. At that time, Slippery Rock only had one bar and the brewery, and the line for the bar would be around the corner. So, instead of waiting in line, I would go to the brewery. One semester, I had a three-and-half-hour Russian History night class on Wednesdays, and Wednesday was pitcher night at the brewery. So after almost four hours of the smartest man alive talking Russian history at you with no PowerPoint or overhead...I couldn’t think anymore, so I would go and get pitchers of Firehouse Red. Lauren: I fell in love with craft beer when I started bartending. I felt that all the crappy beer I drank throughout high school and college was not my thing. Then I started working at BRGR in Cranberry who had forty taps with mostly craft beer on draft and I was able to try different styles that allowed me to realize there is so much depth to beer. My favorite part of bartending was finding the perfect beer for a customer. That challenge of finding a beer drinker the ideal craft beer for his/her palate made me fall in love with craft beer and keeps me motivated in my current job. That connection between me and the craft beer drinker makes me reflect on what beers we (North Country) are making while keeping in mind our customer base and their likes and dislikes. Meg: I was introduced to craft beer by my pal, Frank, who owns a craft beer bar in Jamestown, New York. I attribute a lot of it to him for showing me what craft beer could be. He brought me to a homebrew meeting where I was surrounded by these 50-plus-year-old dudes chatting about beer and what they were brewing. Looking back on it, the beer was OK, but the environment and social aspect was awesome. It was cool to be exposed to that early on and figure out that I loved beer. I didn’t get into the industry for a few years after that, but that was definitely where it started.

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1) Tell the readers about yourself.

3) Tell the readers about your company and your role there.

Ali: I work for Rhinegeist Brewery in Cincinnati. We just turned five this year, which is fairly young as breweries go. We are growing at an alarming rate. According to the Brewers’ Association, we are the thirty-third largest brewery in the United States, but we are only distributed in five states and not even all of Pennsylvania yet. It is a really fun place to work and I work with some amazing people. The liquid is good and our marketing is awesome which makes my job a lot easier. As far as my role, I am the only sales rep in Pennsylvania and I work exclusively with Fuhrer Wholesale. My boss is based in Philadelphia, but he has more of a managerial role. I’m on my own little island out here selling beer to the great people of the Steel City. Lauren: North Country Brewing Company is based out of Slippery Rock. It was started in the late nineties by Bob and Jodi McCafferty. They bought an old building that previously housed a morgue. When Slippery Rock was changing from a dry town to a city that allowed alcohol sales, they wanted to open a brewery in that building. A few years ago, they decided they wanted to distribute and package their beer, so they opened up a production facility right up the road (also in Slippery Rock). Around that same time, they purchased the Harmony Inn and converted it into a craft beer bar. I am the production manager at the larger brewing facility. I oversee all of the brewing operations, set the release schedule, the sour program, manage the sales team, and manage our taproom at the brewery. Meg: Rock Bottom was established in the early nineties and has multiple brewpub locations throughout the country. The company also includes the Gordon Biersch brewpubs. Recently, Rock Bottom has been putting a focus on creating a local feel with their beer at each of their brewpub locations. When you come visit, you’ll be offered the same food menu at each location - but the beer is where each pub creates their own identity and makes a name for themselves. That company-wide push has given me a lot of flexibility and more opportunities to be creative. I get a lot more freedom to do what I want. My role as head brewer at Rock Bottom is to manage the brew house, set the schedule, create recipes, manage inventory, etc. I manage two assistant brewers, and my location is the first location to start canning. On top of that, I do our location’s marketing and social media.

4) W hat challenges do women face in the craft beer industry?

Ali: Generally, people assume you know less than dudes do about craft beer or they assume I’m a promo girl who’s paid to represent the beer but not know anything about the product itself. Your typical craft beer sales rep is a dude with a beard wearing a flannel, and I don’t look like that. I have had to prove myself as a sales rep. It takes a little bit, but my track record speaks for itself. Lauren: I think the biggest challenge that women face in the craft beer industry is ourselves. I’ve had moments where I wasn’t held back by other people, I was held back by myself. I have had those moments of self-doubt where I would say “I can’t do that because I am not strong enough or people won’t respect me.” I am sure other women in the industry have felt the same way. There has never been a guy in this industry that has told me I couldn’t do something because I was female. It was myself questioning or doubting whether or not I could do something. I feel the women we have in our industry are proof that we can. We just need to remember that we can do all the things that men can do if we try. The more women believe in themselves and get into the craft beer industry, the more that other women will be encouraged to join the industry as well. Meg: When I started in this industry, I knew I would have physical obstacles to face. When I was living in Oregon, I had a connection at a brewery and applied for a job there. I showed up and the owner of the brewery asked if I wanted to do an impromptu working interview. So I spent a few hours working around the brewery, and it ended with the owner asking me to lift a half-barrel and a sixth-barrel. I lifted the sixth-barrel easily. I got the half-barrel off the ground a little bit, but it’s 150 pounds. I wasn’t as strong then as I am now. He basically told me that I needed to be stronger. He sent me away with an empty half-barrel that I could fill with water to do exercises with…which was interesting and weird, but also very cool. The other challenge I’ve faced is working with guys who don’t make me feel comfortable working in a brewery environment. That has since changed, but early on I didn’t feel like I belonged or was the odd man out. It is not the best feeling when you are trying really hard to feel part of the team.

5) D o you notice the bias of hiring men in the craft beer field is fading?

Ali: I feel there is still a bias for hiring men over women as craft brewery/ supplier sales reps. When I started with Long Trail, I was the only female brewery rep for a year-and-a-half in the Pittsburgh market. Even within the past year, there are more women joining the ranks and that bias seems to be fading. Now, we are up to five female brewery reps - which is not a ton, but is certainly more than when I started. They are super talented and just as knowledgeable and hardworking as everyone else in the industry.

CraftPittsburgh | issue #39

Lauren: I do think the bias of hiring men first is fading a little bit. Women are capable of doing any position at a brewery and people are noticing that, but having experience is important. Opportunities for women to gain experience were not always there, but with the help of organizations like The Pink Boots Society, women are being given opportunities to learn more about the brewing industry and gain that necessary experience. Today, more and more women have the necessary experience to work in craft beer. I couldn’t have gotten my job in production without my experiences working at other craft breweries and my boss taking a chance on me making the leap from sales to production.

Meg: I don’t really see it changing too much. I feel that more and more women are applying to brewery jobs, but I still feel that women are intimidated to work in production because it’s such a physical job and there is doubt about whether or not you can do the job. I personally hope I can help to break that down and inspire women to join the field. I try very hard to have a diverse staff. I always make sure when I am looking to fill a position, I bring in women to interview so I can have that balance. It can be hard to find someone who will give you a chance. I hope the tide is changing, but I feel that getting more women in production is still something we are working toward.

6) What is the proudest moment of your career?

Ali: I think the proudest moment of my career is the amount of friends that I have met in this industry. I've been able to turn some coworkers, wholesaler reps, and accounts into people that I consider lifelong friends. I am still in touch with people from my days at Wilson-McGinley (including a friend who moved to Denver to sell Dogfish!), almost all of my old coworkers at Long Trail and Otter Creek, and a whole host of new friends from my current position. Lauren: My work with The Pink Boots Society is definitely my proudest moment. The Pink Boots Society is group of female industry members that provide education for women working in craft beer. We recently brewed a Pink Boots Collaboration beer at North Country for International Women’s Day. It was a cream ale with pink guava, hibiscus, and passion fruit. This particular collaboration was a very proud moment for me when my family, who never really understood my role in this industry, saw my involvement in this great cause. We weren’t making a beer to make a profit, but to raise money and awareness for a good cause. We donated a portion of the money made from the beer to Pink Boots for craft beer education for women. Meg: Besides the fact I won an all-female arm wrestling competition, I would have to say starting Brewtal Beer Fest is my proudest industry moment. It allowed me to showcase what I can do and pushed me to the limits of what I am capable of doing in/for this industry. Brewtal Beer Fest is a heavy metal craft beer festival. We focus on merging two industries that, in so many ways, have so much overlap. One way we do that is by pairing up breweries with bands to create unique one-off beers that are available to our guests at the fest. We get to expose metal music listeners to new craft beer. For me as a brewer, I am creating new craft beer drinkers with this fest, and it is one of the most fulfilling things I could be doing.

Ali: My favorite “mansplaining” beer story was during a sampling. I was nearly four years into selling beer and a gentleman decided that I clearly did not know what an IPA was. So this guy is mansplaining IPA to me. He told me, “IPA stands for India Pale Ale” and “When the English would bring the beer over to India, they would hop it more” etc. When I was a bartender my favorite defense mechanism against mansplaining was to act very dumb to frustrate them to the point where they would walk away. So I said to him, “How is it an IPA if my brewery is in Ohio?” Also when a guy mansplains to me how to use/set up a jockey box...as if I haven’t attended 600 beer festivals and set up my equipment myself. Lauren: When I took over as production manager, I was at the brewery one Friday evening working late. There was an older gentleman who started telling me what was wrong with our canning line (which was broken down at the time). I told him what was actually wrong with it, but he continued to argue with me not realizing who I was. I let it go along for a little while until I told him I was the production manager at the brewery and am actually the one who is currently dealing with the broken canning line. He was really embarrassed, but then continued to explain to me how our Paleo IPA tasted better with the original recipe. I do have a number of customers (mostly homebrewers) that have been drinking North Country beer for a long time, and they want to tell me all about what we’re doing wrong. It’s fine. No harm done. I usually laugh it off. However, I see the guys I work with go through the same things. We have a lot of younger guys at the brewery and they get mansplained to just as much as I do. It feels good when I see that. Meg: It is really hard for me to think of a particular mansplaining moment because I feel like my entire career is built around me explaining to people that “yes I am a female brewer” (now a female head brewer) and “yes I make the beer”. I am not calling any particular person out, but most of my experiences with mansplaining have come in my work environment. Sometimes, it’s very hard to manage men with really strong egos. It’s very difficult for some dudes who feel they know more or have experienced

g n i l ow B B O Y B Special thanks to our friends at Crafton Ingram Lanes, the official bowling alley of PinPals. If you're looking to do some BYOB bowling, check them out.

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7) Tell us your best/funniest “mansplaining” beer story?

more than me (and maybe they have) to answer to me in that particular work scenario. Right now where I am with my career, I have very respectful people working for me and they understand I am still learning and growing as a brewer and that I am trying to grow our business. Now I am managing more and explaining myself less.

8) What advice do you have for women trying to get into the craft beer industry?

Ali: Just familiarize yourself with as much beer knowledge as you can. Try absolutely everything and anything, even if it is a beer style you don’t like. Get out there and see what you like. Learn as much as you possibly can…just like any other line of work. Familiarize yourself with beer and beer styles, breweries (both local and national), what’s new and exciting in the craft beer scene, and how breweries market themselves. Just immerse yourself in the industry and work your butt off. Go out there and work to be “The Best Woman in the Industry” or “The Best Person in the Industry.” I have tried to build my career around that mentality - just going out there and working my butt off and being the best person I can be. Lauren: Build a brand for yourself. Don’t attach yourself to a brewery or group of people. Promote yourself first. Also, really try to explore what you are looking for in this industry. Do you want to do sales, brewing, or production? Whatever aspect of the industry interests you most, there are opportunities for you. Get involved in your local beer scene and network as much as possible. Volunteer at your local brewery to help can, label, pour beer, etc. You will be very surprised at the number of people in this industry who will support what you want to do. (During this question an onslaught of Nerf darts were launched at Lauren and I from an unknown assailant. She kept her cool under fire.)

CraftPittsburgh | issue #39

Meg: Best advice I can give anyone is to be tenacious. Regardless of what aspect of the beer industry you are interested in pursuing, just be

tenacious. Keep trying and find every opportunity you can to learn and grow. That’s what worked the best for me and got me where I am today.

9) How can the readers connect with you?

Ali: You can connect with us on Twitter/Instagram/Facebook: @Rhinegeist and on our website: Rhinegeist.com. If you are in Pittsburgh and want to keep up with Rhinegeist’s participation in local beer fest, events, and beer releases you can find me on Twitter: @PolishGeist. Lauren: You can connect with North Country Brewing online at northcountrycanning.com, Facebook/Twitter: @ncbrewingco, and Instagram: @northcountrybrewing. You can connect with North Country Brew Pub on Twitter: @ncbrewpub and Instagram/Facebook: @northcountrybrewpub. Also The Harmony Inn on Twitter/ Instagram/Facebook: @theharmonyinn. You can email me at lauren @northcountrybrewing.com if you are interested in any events or beer releases we have coming up. And you can follow me on Instagram @the_bakari. Meg: You can follow me on Instagram: @brewer_madmeg and Facebook: @megevans. You can follow Rock Bottom on Facebook: @RockBottomPittsburgh, Twitter: RBPittsburgh, and Instagram: @RockBottom_PGH. You can follow Brewtal on Instagram/Twitter/Facebook: @ brewtalbeerfest and online pghbrewtalfest.com. On our site, you can find tickets, lineups, and the list of participating bands and breweries. The fest is Saturday, October 20th at Mr. Smalls in Millvale. Tom Marshall is in the persuasion business. He is the sales & marketing manager for Full Pint Brewing Company in North Versailles, the President of Pittsburgh Libations Week, and a bowling enthusiast. [Twitter: @thomas_poet]

CraftPittsburgh.com

plates & pints

Merchant

OYSTER CO.

Words Brian Conway Photos Buzzy Torek

“It tastes like the ocean,” they told me.

I grew up in Pittsburgh, raised on good stuff like chipped ham and French fries, not mollusks. Yet here I sit, at Merchant Oyster Company, half-shell in hand, stalling for time before sucking down my first oyster ever.

“So I just like, go for it, right?” “Yeah, dude, just go.” I poke it with a tiny, three-pronged fork. It jiggles. Eyes closed, head back, three...two... down it goes, no time to chew.

“Hey, it does taste like the ocean!” Chef Dennis Marron opened Merchant Oyster Company in October 2017 on Butler Street in Lawrenceville. A New Jersey native, Marron grew up in Red Bank, not far from Sandy Hook Bay. It’s an area once chock-full of oysters, but not as much anymore thanks to pollution and over-harvesting. “The perception, especially in Pittsburgh and places that aren't used to eating oysters, is that it's a special occasion thing, something really fancy,” said Marron. “Where I come from, it's like our chicken wings.” Before making his Pittsburgh debut as head chef at The Commoner, Marron was head chef at Poste Moderne Brasserie in Washington, D.C. He left The Commoner to open not one, but two seafood-centric restaurants in a two-month span last year: Merchant, and steak and seafood throwback “or, the Whale,” inside the Distrikt Hotel. “If there's anything that both places have in common, it's that we wanted to take people on vacation,” says COO Jessica Lewis. “The goal was to give people a different feeling, a different experience. That's why aesthetically there's so many things in line here with what we wanted it to be.” We're seated in the upstairs balcony of Merchant. Our weathered table is made from old boats; colorful oars line the exposed brick walls and glass buoys dance along the wooden ceiling beams. Maybe it was the August sun and breeze coursing through the windows, but it felt like we were shoreside. In addition to Dennis and Jessica, Keana and Matt McMahon of Eleventh Hour Brewing joined the CraftPittsburgh squad. The brewery is four blocks away and opened one month before the restaurant.

Last winter, Matt brewed a tasty oyster stout using 40 pounds of Merchant's shells. They come bearing growlers. They're the perfect companions for this month's Plates and Pints. Upon entering Merchant, you notice a gentleman wearing an apron and gloveshucking oysters at the bar. A chalkboard on the wall beside him displays “today's shells,” with names like “Royal Miyagi” and “Wildcat Cove,” alongside their size, cost and provenance. We had no choice but to begin our meal with oysters. An acquired taste? Certainly. But paired with lemon and Marron's housemade, barrelaged cocktail and hot sauces, the shells began to accumulate in front of everyone, not just those of us accustomed to them. As we discuss how oysters are an acquired taste and how a single bad experience can spoil it for someone forever, McMahon comments that he faces the same problem with IPAs. “It is amazing how many people I get that still say 'Oh no, I don't like IPAs',” said Matt. “Try this,” he will tell them, and more often than not they'll like it. “That's because this is what an IPA is now,” he will explain. “The last time you tried an IPA was probably 5-6 years ago,” when they were much more bitter. Next up, soft-shell clams, or “pissers”, as we are told, named for the long-necked siphons that stick out of the ground and filter (and occasionally squirt) salt water. We peel off the excess skin – “like removing a condom” was one cheerful description – then dip the clam in a hot broth and garlic butter sauce before enjoying. Maybe it's all that liquid butter gold talking, but this was seafood in the most visceral, satisfying way. Our next dish, a rich, unthickened New England clam chowder, was paired with “Noble Spirit,” a perfectly cromulent pilsner. What really impressed was the next beer - a fruited version of Planetary Shift, Eleventh Hour’s West Coaststyle IPA.

CraftPittsburgh | issue #39

The McMahon's tell us that to celebrate their one-year anniversary, Eleventh Hour will release in mid-September both a barrel-aged stout in bottles as well as cans of Cult Logic, their New England-style IPA.

(We bet they'd pair great with the grub at Merchant's outdoor “Crab Walk” crab boils in September and October.) Out of nowhere, a tray of steaming hot lobster rolls appeared, glistening with brown butter, Old Bay, and lemon on brioche. Marron said one his sisters lives in Maine, and she's been down to make sure they're up to snuff. (We are happy

to report the lobster rolls are both delicious and authentic.) Next: a “clam stuffie” -- essentially stuffing made with Portuguese sausage, clam, pepper, bread, tasty vegetables - oiled, broiled and baked inside a clam shell. Matt pairs it with “Cold Open,” which he calls a “Pennsylvania Common,” brewed as a traditional steam beer with PA-grown Cascade hops from Hazy Daze Hop Farm. Everyone agrees that it pairs magnificently with the stuffie. “The best part about it is when the beer enhances the food and the food enhances the beer, then both things are raising each other as opposed to one cancelling the other out,” said Matt. At this point, my notes become more jumbled. At some point after our first cocktail arrived, a second cocktail made its appearance: the Nor'easter, which is their take on a Hurricane: Maggie's white rum and falernum, Luxardo Liqueur, orange and cranberry juice along with Red Ribbon cherry and almond soda, complete with paper straw and tiny umbrella. The conversation pivoted: How big can a Bloody Mary get before it's too obnoxious? What is Gordon Ramsey really like? And why does CraftPittsburgh editor Rob Soltis love bocce so much? At one point, we take turns wearing the “Suck 'n' Shuck” championship belt, the award for the fastest oyster opening pro at Merchant's Monday night industry night oyster happy hour.

There's also been a lot of talk about oysters, too. It turns out that otters love to eat them, and their reefs, in addition to being a natural habitat for marine life, also serve as protection against hurricanes and seaside erosion. They also lack a central nervous system, meaning some vegans will actually eat oysters. Merchant is committed to sustainability in their seafood. They are a member of the Oyster Recover Partnership, an organization that collects and recycles oyster shells that are eventually returned to the ocean. Pittsburgh is ORP's pilot city, and Lewis and Marron are spearheading efforts to collect oyster shells across the city. Every half-oyster shell can eventually lead to ten new baby oysters, said Lewis. Considering Merchant goes through some 3,000 oysters a week, that's a lot of future oyster babies. “We just can't keep taking, taking, taking, without giving back what needs to be given back,” she said. We end the night with a giant chocolate whoopie pie, paired with Nocturnal Rainbow, a stout brewed with lactose, La Prima espresso and chocolate malts. We reflect on our favorite dishes, drinks, and our shared evening of good food that was sustainably sourced, thoughtfully prepared, and masterfully executed. We went on vacation to the shore and we didn't even have to leave Pittsburgh to do it.

have you tried...

Words Hart Johnson Photo Mike Weiss

1. SLY FOX Oktoberfest

CraftPittsburgh | issue #39

6.1% - Fest Beer - Phoenixville, PA

I swear I could’ve done all Oktoberfest beers this issue and just nitpicked over who used which malt and hops and why is this one so much darker and sweeter and so on and so forth. But I understand, this is Pittsburgh, we treat the end of summer like it’s gonna snow September 15 and we won’t see the sun until April 16. Live up fall my friends, it’s gonna be hoodie weather and bonfires until the middle of December if you do it right. That’s three months of easing out of heat and easing into darker beers, and Oktoberfest beers are THE fall transition beer. Trying to keep up with every Oktoberfest brewed in PA is a seriously daunting task — we’re an area rich in German heritage and oh how we love an excuse to drink that emotion. Sly Fox Oktoberfest is one of the many I look forward

to, a bit lighter of an affair than some of the darker, sweeter examples. A textbook amber-colored beer with a quaffable balance of sweet German malts and herbal hops that’s perfect for sitting outside wondering why daylight savings time robs us an hour of evening during the greatest evening time of the year. Recommended if you like: Victory - Festbier, Penn - Oktoberfest, Sixpoint - Oktoberfest, All Saints - Oktoberfest, Fat Heads - G’Suffa!

2. PLATFORM Orange Blossom 4.2% - Orange Gose - Cleveland, OH

Have any of you seen these cans from an Ohio brewery around? Simple, expressive logo with bright 4-color design on cans of IPA and sours? No,

not that Ohio brewery. No, I said cans. Look, there’s another one, ok? From Cleveland. Yes, their hand egg team is bad and they should feel bad. Let’s get to the beer already. I’ve had a few Platform beers here and there, mostly IPA or hop-forward stuff that, sure, it’s good. This juice banger here though, I’m on my *mumbles incoherently*th and it’s a beautiful incorporation of orange into a Gose. Tart. Not sour, not Atomic Warhead sour, not esophagus-shredding sour, not polishes brass sour. Tart. Just tart enough to let some orange peel and orange blossom water play into a juicy character. Not quite like orange juice, think drinking a well made fresh lemonade while peeling a clementine. The salinity on the finish is just enough to kick the salivary glands into work and this stuff just begs to be drank. This stuff at an early season tailgate? Oh hell yes. Recommended if you like: Dancing Gnome - Underscore Guava, Rhinegeist - Peach Dodo, Destihl - Blueberry Gose, Prairie - Pink Guava Funk

3. SCHLENKERLA Helles

4.3% - German Lager - Bamberg, Germany

Before we get too far into this, Schlenkerla is the curb bite scene from American History X. Iconic. Unforgettable. Polarizing. After having this, you’re either going to fall down a smoke-filled rabbit hole or you’re finding me and giving me the most verbose explanation of why I suck worse than the last Yelp! review of any Burger King. Schlenkerla is The King of Smoked Beer. Their Marzen, Urbock, & Weizen are all brewed using beechwood smoked malt. Why smoked malt? History. When the brewery was founded in 1405(!!!), there was no clean burning fuel - there was whatever was convenient to you to burn. Now then, to make beer, you need to malt barley. To malt barley, you need heat. To get heat, you need a fuel source. Beechwood was readily available in the land of Bamberg, thus Schlenkerla used beechwood to malt their barley. And oh how the barley was saturated with rich sweet smoke and thus the resulting beer was saturated in rich sweet smoke flavors. The Helles here is a sort of the evolution of Schlenkerla - no beechwood-smoked malt is used. But due to being brewed in the same facility, using the same yeast as the heavily smoked beers, a subtle smoke flavor persists. To make a long story short, this stuff is God Tier. A simple German Lager with a touch of German hop wrapped in a campfire blanket. And again, a mere kiss of smoke compared to their other beers. Recommended if you like: East End - Blabber & Smoke Lager, Dark Horse - Fore Smoked Stout, Fat Heads - Up In Smoke Porter, Hitchhiker - Smoked Wheat Everyday Gratzer

4. 11TH HOUR Burn Your Suit

I’ll never tire of PGH breweries celebrating anniversaries. And shit, the way things are going, we could be celebrating them every week soon. Ready your wax-cutting knife, your heftiest bottle opener, and your edgiest Teku, we’re gonna have some whales to slay. This bourbon & maple syrup barrel-aged thiccboi celebrates the finest feeling since Willie Nelson took a job and shoved it. Taking all the hard earned-money you earned at your soul-sucking job, dumping it all into a hope and a dream and setting fire to that corporate noose they call a necktie on the way out. This is a nice bridge between new school Pastry Stout and old school Imperial Stout. Charred marshmallow, ripe raspberry, sweet vanilla cream, and milk chocolate show up first before some drying hop bitterness, oak tannins, and burnt oak bat cleanup. This is a damn beautiful way to celebrate... well, burning your suit. Recommended if you like: East End - Homewood Reserve, Thirsty Dog - Barrel Aged Siberian Night, Founders - Imperial Stout, Deschutes - Black Butte XXX

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9.7% - Bourbon Barrel Aged Imperial Stout Larryville, Pittsburgh, PA

5. LAVERY Rauch Lager 5.8% - Smoked Lager - Erie, PA

So, how many smoked beers am I gonna review this issue, right? I’d review all of them if I could. Every last one. Sitting here right in the sweet spot of late summer, with those 15-degree temperature drops just after dusk. If it’s not a smoked lager, give me an Oktoberfest. But we’ll get to that later. This Lavery is similar in character to the Schlenkerla, but drastically different. Made from 100% beechwood smoked malt imported from Bamberg, Germany, Rauch picks up all the sweet smoke from actual smoked malt rather than trusting the process. While you’d think brewing with 100% smoked malt would result in an absolute smoke bomb, the smoke adds a depth of sweetness to what, outside the smoked malt, is a basic golden lager. Think of drinking your favorite Pennsylvania amber lager outside next to a fire pit. Yes, all of that but in your glass inside your temperature controlled living room because seriously September, it’s too hot for this. Recommended if you like: Left Hand - Smoke Jumper, Victory Scarlet Fire, Evil Twin - Ashtray Heart, Spoonwood - Smoke & Oats

6. MODERN TIMES Orderville 7.2% - IPA - San Diego, CA

CraftPittsburgh | issue #39

I’m not gonna say Modern Times knows what they’re doing, but putting “HAZY, MOSAIC, IPA” smack dab in the middle of the front label had this floccboi at Hazy. Even better? Hops used in this beer: Mosaic, Simcoe, Ekuanot, Denali, Eureka and Nugget. You got me Modern Times, much like how I learned Cocoa Pebbles have less sugar than those supposedly healthy 2 Scoops in every Raisin Bran, I should’ve read the back label before I let those singing raisins sell me beer. Actually, I really enjoy the blend. Denali & Mosaic are a great duet of hops that bring a fair bit of dank blueberry to the party with Simcoe & Eureka throwing candied citrus around and Nugget & Ekuanot laying down pine and deep citrus tones.

Like any hazy IPA worth its oats, bitterness is well restrained and you just get a big mouthful of hop flavor and a big noseful of hop aroma. All the hazeboi flavor, none of the hazeboi standing in line! Recommended if you like: Brew Gentlemen - General Braddock, Four Seasons - 18teen, Helltown - Fit for a Hoptopsy, East End - Partly Clahdy

7. FUNK Citrus

6.7% Grapefruit IPA - Emmaus, PA via Chicago, IL

The feels I have about contract brewing run the gamut from "didn't that hemp beer contract kill that MD brewery 20 years ago" to "well shit, 21st Amendment made that work in Minnesota and lived to tell the tale" and even "Is Iron City a better beer now that it's brewed in Latrobe?" So, yes, I'm conflicted about how I feel about contract breweries, gypsy brewers, and everything in between. Funk, straight outta the most unpronounceable city in PA, Emmaus, has taken mass quantity production of their flagship IPAs, Citrus & Silent Disco, to the Chicago contract brewing hub Great Central Brewing Company. What we have here is Citrus, a late model entry into the West Coast IPA dosed with grapefruit juice. Deep golden, maybe skirting around light amber colored, with a healthy blast of citrusy aroma hops and grapefruit zest. The grapefruit is incorporated nicely into the beer, the hop bitterness isn't overdone, and the slight bit of caramel malt plays nicely into the juicy flavors. West Coast style beer from an East Coast company brewed at a Mid Coast brewery. Like the can says, "do not age.” Recommended if you like: Ballast Point - Grapefruit Sculpin, Stone - Tangerine Express, Green Flash - Tangerine Soul Style, Allegheny City - The Riddler

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BEER INFO@CRAFTPITTSBURGH.COM

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NOW O P EN W IT H A FUL L SC R A T CH ME NU

brewer sit-down

AL GRASSO Allegheny City Brewing 507 Foreland St, PGH 15212 What is your name and age? Al Grasso and I just turned 40.

Where are you originally from?

I was born and raised in Pittsburgh. I grew up in the South Hills area in Green Tree.

What is your brewing background?

I definitely came through the homebrew track. Matt, Amy, and I moved out to Colorado in the mid 2000’s and got into the craft beer scene there. It gave us access to good, local craft beer. Around 2005, we started homebrewing and did that for 11 years. Just like every homebrewer out there, we had a pipe dream of opening our own brewery, so we started working on that by helping out at different breweries. When we got back to Pittsburgh, we helped out at breweries locally and picked the brains of local guys to get a feel for brewing on a commercial scale.

Talk a little more about opening Allegheny City Brewing.

CraftPittsburgh | issue #39

Matt and I had talked about it every time we were together and Amy would get really tired of it. Eventually, she and I were on vacation and she said ‘Do it or don’t.’ So we did it. We had been trying to get back to Pittsburgh and we saw an opportunity to open a brewery here. We moved back in 2013 and started looking for spaces, investors, equipment, etc. We opened September 28th, 2016. During that time, I continued to work until we were just about open. Amy and Matt were already full-time at the brewery when we opened.

How did you pick the North Side as your location?

Matt and Amy are from the North Side, but we were open to other neighborhoods as well. Some felt right, some did not. But a couple of the neighborhoods here in the North Side were interested in having a brewery and they were really excited to have us. Our building was previously a coffee shop and the gentleman who sold it to us felt this would be a great fit for the neighborhood. We wanted to be where we were wanted and the North Side worked out perfectly.

What’s the first craft beer that stood out and changed your opinion on beer?

The brewery and beer that really sticks out is Great Divide’s Yeti. When I first moved to Denver in 2005, Great Divide had a small taproom and I could walk in there on a Friday night and grab a seat at the bar with no problems. It was like a local secret. The beer was world class, I got to know the brewers and the bartenders. It was really cool to be at this establishment where they had these new styles I hadn’t experienced before. The Yeti is what really turned things around for me.

Is there a trend or style you’re not really in love with?

There’s not really a trend I hate. But for us, we are trying to have restrained balance with our offerings. There’s a side of me that wants to stick to traditional styles and make good, clean representations of a historical style. But there are other parts of me that knows it’s fun to add graham crackers to a beer and called it a Graham Cracker Porter. Both of those can be fun and we try to balance it out at all times.

What's your daily carry?

What is your guilty pleasure beer?

If we are going on a float trip, we always default to PBR. It’s what we were drinking before we knew what craft beer was.

Do you guys have any music you like to brew to?

We change it up all the time. We all have our own musical tastes and each of us will take charge of the music at different times. Amy and I are into old school hip-hip and Matt’s more into bluegrass. When Tom Petty passed, we listened to nothing but his music for a week.

Do you have a favorite bar that you like to frequent?

Right now, I don’t. We are here a lot and when we go out, it’s usually to another brewery to see people we know and check out what they have going on. The one ‘Cheers’ bar for me back in my early 20s was White Eagle in the South Side. They had super cheap beer and it was a nice, local, low-key spot. I was there enough that I got invited to their staff outing at a Pirates game once.

What kind of car do you drive?

A 2010 Nissan Xterra. It works for hauling kegs and dogs.

Do you have a desert island beer?

If there were only one beer I could drink the rest of my life, it would be Dale’s Pale Ale.

Do you have a brewing hero or someone in the industry you look up to?

Not like one ‘Mount Rushmore’ type guy. But there were a couple guys in Colorado who opened a brewery because they got laid off from a local Denver newspaper and said “Screw it, let’s open a brewery.” We got to know them pretty well and learned their most popular beer was an accident. They grabbed the wrong grain and it was supposed to be something way lighter than the beer turned out, but it ended up being a wild cherry beer that was wildly popular. So, you never know when a happy mistake is going to turn into the best decision you could make. For us, everyone in the Pittsburgh brewing community has been very helpful. Whenever I go to a brewery to collaborate on a beer, I always learn something new.

Do you have a least favorite beer style? How hard is it to name your beers?

It’s super hard. For us, we want every one of our beer names to have a purpose. Every beer has a name behind it with a meaning. Some are named after historic moments in the North Side, some are named after our dogs or a historical figure. But there have been plenty of days where we have a new beer on the board, it’s five minutes before we open, and we still don’t have a name for it.

CraftPittsburgh.com

I don’t gravitate towards Belgian beers. I can appreciate the style, but it’s not my go-to.

homebrewing

Words Jack Smith Art Joe Mruk

here are homebrew competitions, then there is NHC - the National Homebrew Competition. 3500+ homebrewers. 8500+ entries. A final round comprised of 1st, 2nd, & 3rd place entries from the twelve regional first round competitions in each of 33 categories. Every category in the final round has 36 award-winning entries. To win a medal is extremely impressive. To win gold, even moreso. Sean Kinnas, local homebrewer and president of Three Rivers Alliance of Serious Homebrewers, won gold at NHC 2018 in Portland, OR for his Imperial Stout! I had a chance to talk to Sean about his approach to homebrewing and his winning beer... [Jack Smith] Thank for taking time to speak with me, Sean. Congratulations on the big win! When did you start brewing, how often do you brew, etc? [Sean Kinnas] Thanks for the invitation, Jack. It is definitely the high watermark of my brewing career, which started back in February 2005. I did extract and partial mash for a couple years, then went all-grain. These days, I seem to brew about once or twice a month, on average. [JS] As I’ve witnessed over the past few years, you have a pretty high entry-to-medal average when entering competitions. What is your secret? [SK] There's no secret. I've got a strong perfectionist "Type A" streak, and I'm driven to prove to myself that I can improve on what I've done before. I make an effort to learn as much as I can from basically whoever I can, and then apply that knowledge to the best of my ability to improve my own skills. Rinse, repeat. [JS] What is your favorite style of beer to brew and why? [SK] That's a tough one. I don't have a favorite style to brew, but I do have a few comfort beers (like comfort foods, but beer) that I always seem to circle back to. Irish Stout was my gateway drug away from American Industrial Lager in college. Munich Helles was the first fizzy yellow lager I had with any flavor complexity. English Pale Ales (Bitters) with their layered malt, hop and yeast flavors are always welcome in my kegerator. [JS] Do you brew differently for competitions than when brewing for yourself? [SK] Not anymore. I used to treat competition brewing as "special occasion" brewing. I even had some recipes I brewed specifically for competition, but didn't particularly enjoy drinking. Eventually, that turned competition brewing into a chore, which is the exact opposite of what a hobby should be. Now, I mostly just brew what I want. If it easily fits in a competition style, great! If not, more for my friends and me. [JS] What kind of equipment do you brew on? [SK] I have a single pump, 3-vessel system on a Blichmann TopTier stand. No automation, but I built a pipe manifold so all I have to do is move a few valves around to direct whatever flow to whatever vessel. I have a 15 gallon direct fire mash tun, a 15 gallon HLT, and a 26 gallon behemoth of a boil kettle. This let's me easily brew 10 to 15 gallons of most normal strength beers. I ferment in carboys and package in kegs.

CraftPittsburgh | issue #39

[JS] Tell us about your Imperial Stout. Is it a recipe you’ve been working on for a while?

[SK] My winning beer was not an original recipe of mine. It was... heavily inspired...by the 1914 Courage Imperial Stout recipe from the Shut Up About Barclay Perkins blog [http://barclayperkins.blogspot. com/2012/02/lets-brew-wednesday-1914-courage.html]. It appealed to me because it's a fairly simple grist (like my own recipes often are) and showcases a couple of rather underappreciated malts. I made a few tweaks here and there, but the core of the recipe is unchanged from that of the blog. The second iteration of that recipe was the NHC medal winner. I think I'm done tweaking it.

[JS] Now that you’ve attained a dream goal of many homebrewers, what are your homebrewing goals? [SK] Win a major award at TRASH and Beer & Sweat. Level up my BJCP rank to National. Attend HomeBrewCon in Providence next year. [JS] What one homebrewing item could you not live without? [SK] That's an easy one: Kegs. I find bottling to be tedious, messy, and ultimately, just too inconsistent. [JS] If you could list three absolutely critical steps to ensuring your beer is excellent, what would they be? [SK] I'm fairly sure that you're expecting a technical answer, like controlling mash pH or fementation temperature, but I'm going to offer a more philosophical answer: 1. Join and Be Active in a Homebrew club. Multiple clubs, if feasible. Clubs are full of people that will give you honest opinions and constructive criticism instead of stroking your ego for free beer. You can meet a variety of brewers of all experience levels and you can learn something from any of them. Plus, you can make some really good friends who share the same interest as you. 2. Learn to Judge. Attending and participating in a BJCP exam prep class is probably the best homebrew-focused palate training that you'll find, even if you're not all that interested in becoming an "official" judge. The class will teach you to pay greater attention to your senses, develop your sensory vocabulary, and find your sensitivities and blind spots. This is something I really wish I'd done earlier in my brewing career. 3. Help Others Learn. Eventually, one reaches levels of experience and expertise where it becomes challenging to find new things to learn and to find new ways to improve one's skills. I've found that helping others learn (e.g. through a beer judging class I run, various tech talks I've given

or just answering people’s questions) has led me to reassess and refine my own brewing practices and philosophies and has given me different perspectives on subjects I thought I knew well. [JS] Any parting words for the aspiring NHC medal winners reading this? [SK] The success I've enjoyed was not a product of my efforts alone. One can't develop and refine skills in a vacuum. I've been fortunate to have a number of people who've helped me grow and develop as a brewer. I'd like to say a quick thank you to Heather, Malcolm, Andy, Rich, Matt, Justin, Jeff, and you, just to name a few. Sean has shared his winning recipe with us, complete with all the details you need to make it yourself and even included an imperial stout chocolate bread pudding recipe to pair with it. Cheers, Sean!

“Han Solo Shot First

IMPERIAL STOUT

Boil Time: 60 minutes Batch Size: 5.25 gal. FG: 1.030 ABV: 8.5% OG: 1.094 SRM: 58 IBU: 64 Difficulty: Moderate - requires at least a partial mash plus oxygenation and fermentation temperature control. A giant mash tun helps… a lot. *Assuming 65% brewhouse efficiency

Grainbill

• 22.2 lbs Crisp Maris Otter (4 SRM) • 4.7 lbs Crisp Brown Malt (65 SRM) • 2.6 lbs Bairds Black Malt (600 SRM) Extract Brewers: You might be at a disadvantage on this one, but it's worth

Suggested Pairings

This stout has a prominent bittersweet chocolate flavor with undertones of mocha and French roast coffee and notes of dried cherries and plums. It's thick and luscious with a deceptively high ABV. It's a dessert in itself, and is a wonderful accompaniment to one's favorite philosophical writings (cigar, optional). It’s also an excellent means of steeling one's nerves before Christmas with the in-laws. If you insist on actual food with your beer, think rich and savory. Grilled porterhouse steak or pepper-crusted filet would work very well with this beer, as would a hearty beef stew. For those that enjoy dessert, serve it alongside raisin bread pudding with a vanilla cream topping. Or use it to make an imperial stout chocolate bread pudding. Recipe below Cheers!

Imperial Stout Chocolate Bread Pudding • 1.5 cups Han Solo Shot First • 0.5 cups heavy cream • 0.5 cups sugar • 1.25 cups chocolate chips • 4 large eggs • 2 tsp vanilla • 4 cups stale bread

For Finishing

• 1 cup chocolate chips • 2 tbsp demerara sugar

Reduce the imperial stout to 1 cup in volume. Add sugar and heavy cream. Stir until sugar is dissolved. Add the chocolate chips and stir until melted. Whisk in the eggs and vanilla. Pour mixture over stale bread. Mix in the additional chocolate chips. Sprinkle the demerara sugar over the top. Bake at 325 F until done. Serve with a snifter of the Han Solo Shot First.

the trouble. The brown malt contains some starches, so it needs to be mashed with some Maris Otter, and you need to steep the Black malt too. ~10 lbs of speciality malts is a lot for nearly any stock pot. So, split it. You can do a partial mash in one pot, and a steep in another. Combine the brown malt and three pounds of crushed Maris Otter in 2.5 gallons of water at about 150F and hold it there for an hour. Then strain the liquid into your boil kettle along with the rest of your water. You can steep the black malt in another gallon of water and strain it, too. Then add enough extra light DME to get to an appropriate pre-boil gravity. Boil as you usually do.

Hops, etc.

• 112 grams UK First Gold, (6.1%) @ 60 min • 82 grams UK Challenger (8.4%) @ 60 min

Mash & Boil

A single infusion mash is all this beer needs. Dough in at 149F and hold that temperature for an hour. Shoot for a room temperature mash pH of 5.4. If your routine includes mashout, have at it. Perform your normal lauter and sparge process to collect your standard pre-boil volume for getting 5.25 gallons of wort into your fermenter. Boil for 60 minutes, adding hops at 60 minutes. Make a big yeast starter. Use a yeast calculator to size your starter to produce about 335 billion cells or make an oatmeal stout as a starter (it's good enough for Samuel Smith, so it should be good enough for you) and collect about 100 ml of pure yeast solids to re-pitch. Be sure to oxygenate your wort very well prior to pitching. Big ales require more oxygen up front than session-strength ales. I would give this beer two minutes of pure O2 just before adding the yeast. Pitch your starter into your chilled wort when both are at 68F. Hold it there until fermentation is complete. Note that West Yorky is a very messy yeast. You are likely to have a ton of blow off and a giant sticky mess if the blow off gets out of control. I recommend using fermcap in the blow off bucket to maintain peace in the family.

CraftPittsburgh.com

Yeast/Fermentation

cooking with beer Words Mindy Heisler-Johnson Photos Mike Weiss

CraftPittsburgh | issue #39

Penn Brewery Oktoberfest

BACON-WRAPPED

BBQ MEATLOAF

t’s going to get cold again soon, so our last hurrahs with the grill will soon be upon us. Not going to lie, I am just a touch excited for the return of fall weather. With it comes Oktoberfest beers, which I love! I know some people get all worked up over pumpkin beers... you can have ‘em! Gimme all the malty, crisp Oktoberfest beers you got. I feel like they are here and gone so fast. So we MUST cook with them when the opportunity arises for freshies! I like them in pizza and pretzel doughs, they’re delicious for steaming mussels and shellfish, perfect in beer cheese dips, and also perfect to cook down the onions for a fancied-up meatloaf. Which would probably be pretty good, and fun, if wrapped in a bacon weave. And only enhanced with a tangy BBQ mop while it grills over a charcoal fire. Man… someone should totally write a recipe like that.

Penn Oktoberfest Braised Beer Onions

Small dice a medium/large sweet onion and mince two or three cloves of garlic. Melt a couple tablespoons of butter in a sauté pan over medium high heat. Add the onions and sauté until they start to soften. Add the garlic and cook out for a couple more minutes until the garlic loses that harsh, raw smell. Season generously with kosher salt and fresh ground pepper. Add 1 tsp. Herbs de Provence (or Dried Thyme), ½ tsp. ground allspice and sauté until the edges of the onion starts to lightly brown. Deglaze with 8oz of Penn Oktoberfest, reduce heat to medium and reduce by ¾, it should be more mostly dry when it is finished. Set aside to cool. * Side Note - 86 the herbs and allspice and these are really good anywhere you want to fancy up sautéed onion - like pierogies, hot dogs, etc.

Bacon Wrapped Meatloaf

• 1 lb. of each ground beef, lamb and pork {or any combo of the two equaling 3lb(ish)} • The Penn Oktoberfest onions you just made • 1 generous tsp Kosher salt • A healthy amount fresh ground black pepper • ½ tsp Herbs de Provence (or dried thyme) • 3 Tbsp Dijon mustard • 3 eggs • 2 cups panko bread crumbs • 1.5 lbs(ish) regular sliced bacon, warmed up on the counter a bit for stretchiness Put all of the meatloaf ingredients in a big bowl and squoosh it and moosh it together until everything is all lashed up together evenly. This recipe, for the record, is very forgiving as far as measurements are concerned. Just make sure you adjust your salt for a lot more or a lot less than 3lbs. of meat. This one makes a meal for 4 with leftovers.

Make your bacon weave. Lay out 12 or 13 strips of bacon lengthwise ON A PARCHMENT LINED TRAY (important to your ability to move it after it’s made). Fold the even ones toward you halfway and lay a piece of bacon across them. Flip the even ones up and the odd ones down and layer another strip of bacon all the way across. Repeat this two or three more times until you are at the top. Reverse it to create the bottom half. Why a weave? Because this beast of a meatloaf has to go from tray to grill and grill to tray - the weave helps keep it from breaking while raw and cooked. And it looks cool.

CraftPittsburgh.com

This is also when you should go fire up your charcoal. I grill in the center of the grate with the coals arranged around the outer ring of the grill bottom with a drip pan underneath. Ideally, you want to be up around 350 degrees to get the bacon crisped. And you are going to be in and out a lot with the mop, so don’t be shy with those coals.

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HERE INFO@ CRAFT PITTSBURGH So you have your weave all laid out - mound your meatloaf mix in the middle into a nice, even rounded rectangle looking thing from end to end. Make sure there are no cracks or seams as best you can and smooth it out so it is even in height and width all over. Use the parchment to wrap the top and bottom over so it's encased in its bacon jacket, bottom seam up. Fix up your seam and even out your edges and ends. Reshape it again so it’s back to all evened up. Use the paper to move it to the grill, flipping it over so it is in the center, seam down. Pop the lid on and let it go for about 20 minutes so the bacon can start to cook. Then start mopping it every 15 minutes or so until it is done. Keep your heat up through all the opening and closing of the lid - you want that glaze to caramelize and the bacon to cook a little crisp. Total cook time is about two hours. Cook to internal temperature of 160-165. Use spatulas (and an assistant) to get off the grill and onto a tray. Let it rest at least 20 minutes before you cut it, it’s had one doozy of a day.

Oktoberfest BBQ Mop • • • • • • • • • • •

2 Tbsp butter 3 or 4 cloves of garlic, minced 8oz tomato sauce 4oz Penn Oktoberfest ¼ cup dark brown sugar ¼ cup maple syrup 1 cup apple cider vinegar ¼ cup Dijon mustard ¼ cup whole grain mustard 2 tsp ground cumin 2 tsp smoked paprika

CraftPittsburgh | issue #39

This is a super easy, multi-use BBQ mop. Add some chilis to it if you want some spice!

Melt the butter in a saucepot. Add the garlic and sauté just until it loses the raw smell. Add the tomato sauce and beer and bring to a simmer. Go in with all of the rest of the ingredients and bring to a hard boil. Reduce to a simmer and let it cook for 5 minutes or so to reduce a bit and let the sugar cook down a tick. Pour into a bowl and use a big brush to mop your meatloaf while it grills. You can, of course, just bake it in the oven - if you do 1) flip it over, seam side down first, and 2) start at 350 for 30 minutes, up heat to 375 and finish while mopping with bbq mop (or not, if you’d rather skip it). Bake to the same temp, 160-165, and rest, too, it will have also had a rough day. I like this with mashed or roasted potatoes, grilled corn, roasted broccoli, and vinegar slaw. It also makes for one hell of a cold meatloaf sandwich the next day on some squishy white bread.

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