cooking with beer • homebrewing • upcoming beer events • style profile • have you tried...
table of contents editor’s notes upcoming events style profile - märzen penn's caves merry fishmas pittsburgh the new look of rivertowne
hoppy couple - leaning cask pin pals
plates & pints - the commoner have you tried ... brewer sit-down - ryan slicker cooking with beer - ramen home brewing - helles bock
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CraftPittsburgh.com
5. 6. 9. 13. 18. 22. 26. 28. 32. 36. 40. 42. 44.
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PUBLISHER
P•Scout Media, LLC
EXECUTIVE EDITOR
head hunter
now in 6packs
Rob Soltis rob@craftpittsburgh.com
MANAGING EDITOR
Mike Weiss mike@craftpittsburgh.com
COPY EDITOR
Kristy Locklin, Jason Cercone
SALES DIRECTOR
Tom Garzarelli tom@craftpittsburgh.com
CONTRIBUTORS Brian Meyer, Joe Tammariello, Brian Conway, Amanda Stein, Mindy Heisler-Johnson, Hart Johnson, Jack Smith, Jason Cercone, Tom Marshall
PHOTOGRAPHERS Jeff Zoet, Buzzy Torek
CREATIVE
Soltis Design soltisdesign.com
WEBSITE MANAGER Brian Meyer
CraftPittsburgh | issue #36
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Craft Pittsburgh is issued bi-monthly by P•Scout Media, LLC for readers of legal drinking age. All information and materials in this magazine, individually and collectively, are provided for informational purposes. The contents of this magazine do not necessarily reflect the views and policies of P•Scout Media, LLC., nor does the mention of trade names or commercial products constitute endorsement or recommendation for use. No portion of this magazine may be reproduced in whole or part without expressed written permission from the publisher. Advertisements are subject to the approval of P•Scout Media, LLC. P•Scout Media, LLC. reserves the right to reject or omit any advertisement at any time for any reason. Advertisers assume responsibility and complete liability for all content in their ads.
editor’s notes
COUGH, COUGH. I THINK I'M STARTING TO FEEL THIRSTY. • Piper's Pub has set the date for their annual Imperial Breakfast which happens to be one of my favorite days of the year. If you've never drank 10%+ ABV stouts at 9am on a Wednesday with a bar full of fellow beer nerds you're missing out. I know what you're thinking, "That sounds like a blast but how am I ever going to get out of work/class/adulting on a random Wednesday morning?" Don't worry fam, we've got ya covered. Cut-out and complete the form below and you'll be all set.
EXCUSE Date: April, 18th 2018
Name: ______________________________________________ Was under our care from: 9:00am
To: 3:30pm
Return to work date: April, 19th 2018, (possibly a little late) Illness/Injury: Xerostomia and acute F.O.M.O.
Restrictions Upon Return Normal Work Signature:
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ND NEW BAR AREAS. DINNING AECIALS! DAILY SP
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Mike Weiss
*Use at your on risk, CraftPittsburgh will not assume responsible if this gets you fired or divorced.
Mea culpa: The article "Remembering Chiodo's" that appeared in Issue #35 incorrectly identified the cause of death of the tavern's owner, Joe Chiodo. The article also stated that he had purchased the building that housed the tavern, when it fact the building was given to Joe by his father, Pietro. The author and CraftPittsburgh regret the errors and extend our sincerest apologies to the Chiodo family - particularly Michele Stone Chiodo - who were invaluable in correcting the misstatements and setting the record straight.
Cheers,
1805 E. CARSON ST. PITTSBURGH PA, 15203
CALL FOR TAKEOUT 412.431.7433 Rob Soltis
FATHEADS.COM
upcoming events March • 5 The Pennsylvania Toast @ Heinz History Center • 10 Viceland in PGH|Drinking Partners @ Unplanned Comedy • 10 Maple Festival @ Threadbare Cider & Mead • 12 Grand Opening Fat Head's Brewery @ Canton, Ohio • 15 Great Lakes Beer Dinner @ Dive Bar, Wexford • 17 Kegs & Eggs @ City Works, Market Square • 17 Juicy Brews Hotel Party @ Ace Hotel • 23 Hops for Hearth @ Alloy 26 • 24 Hell with the Lid Off 14 @ Kelly's Bar & Lounge • 24 Gratitude Day @ East End Brewing • 24 CANniversary @ Fury Brewing • 24 Mammoth Beer Mile & 5K @ Westmoreland Fair Grounds • 28 Fancy Bottle Pour Night @ Bierport • 31 Brewhaha @ Robin Hill Park
April • 4 TRASH Homebrew Competition @ Helicon Brewing • 7 North Hils Brewfest @ Greater PGH Masonic Center • 13 Reds, Whites & Brews @ Rivers Casino • 14 Sip Away Tax Day @ Washington Wild Things Stadium
20-29 FOR A COMPLETE LIST OF EVENTS
PITTSBURGHCRAFTBEERWEEK.COM
CraftPittsburgh | issue #36
• 18 Imperial Breakfast @ Piper's Pub • 20 13th Annual Brewer's Ball @ IBEW Local #5 Union Hall • 21 14th Annual Keg Ride @ East End Brewing • 21 Beer Barge @ Gateway Clipper Dock • 21 Penn Brew U Master's Level @ Penn Brewery • 28 Oysterfest @ Under the Homestead Grays Bridge
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May • 19 PGH Taco Festival @ Highmark Stadium • 20 Punk In Drublic Tour @ Highmark Stadium
June • 2 Beers of the Burgh @ Carrie Furnace
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CraftPittsburgh.com
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CraftPittsburgh | issue #36
style profile
MÄRZENS
& SPRINGTIME
A PERFECT PAIRING? Words Brian Meyer
Thanks to good ole’ Mother Nature, the brewing of beer in areas like Bavaria/Germany actually had a season. When the weather went from cool to hot in the summer, brewing activity had to be suspended until the weather cooled off again and beer could be properly cooled from the boiling process. The month that typically marked the end of the brewing season was March, or Märzen for those of us familiar with the German language.
Take for example the humble yet prolific Märzen style of beer, more commonly known as Oktoberfest-style beers. But wait, why would we be talking about Oktoberfest beers in March? Aren’t those beers made for, well, October? Technically speaking, you’re correct in assuming that Oktoberfest-style beers are consumed during the celebration of Oktoberfest, even though it typically takes place in September each year, but if you think that these fall-centric beers aren’t connected to the springtime, you’re most definitely wrong. You see, before our good friend refrigeration came on the scene and helped brewers around the world control the temperature of their fermentation, beers were cooled using what could be found in nature. This means that different methods were used around the world based on the environment. In Bavaria (current day Germany), brewers utilized caves and tunnels to keep their beer cool for fermentation and storage. The storage of these beers was known as lagering, which came from the old German word for storehouse.
The Original Märzen
While the Märzen that we know and love today owes some of its provenance to the time of year and area it was brewed in, that doesn’t mean that brewers throughout history haven’t shaped its flavor, appearance, and aroma to meet their creative and taste designs just as much, if not more. In a brewing world without refrigeration, the time of year dictated as much about the flavor and appearance of a beer as the ingredients a brewer chose to brew with. That means that one style of beer would effectively taste different from one month to the next, which is one of the reasons these beers were specifically referred to by the month they were brewed in, AKA Märzen. The original Märzen style beers are one of the most well-known sub-styles of beer in the amber lager category, and traditionally utilized innovations in technology of the time, most specifically the ability to kiln malt effectively and evenly. This was shown with the consistent color and flavor profile found in amber lagers of the time, and of course specifically in the Märzen.
Märzens Today
While our good friend refrigeration made it so that we’re not tied to a time of year to brew, you’ll still find that nearly every brewery releases their version of Märzen/Oktoberfest-style beers for the fall season with
CraftPittsburgh.com
W
e live in amazing times. Humans as a whole have invented more in the last 100 years than in the 1,000 years before that, and the brewing industry has taken full advantage of many of these inventions. Sure, computer-controlled brew systems helped make brewing consistent and easily scalable, but few inventions have impacted the world of beer and brewing more than the humble refrigerator. No, we’re not talking about the invention as it pertains to your beer fridge, but rather the idea of refrigeration as a whole.
This autumn to spring brewing season was responsible for all of the beer consumed throughout the year, and is also the reason that the style of lager beers gained some of its popularity. This meant that beers brewed in March were often consumed starting in the fall, typically August, September or October. While interesting, I won’t get into the tie-in with Oktoberfest and the whole Oktoberfest celebration, there’s enough history and information there for a story of its own.
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one notable exception being Pittsburgh’s very own Penn Brewery. Their Märzen fits the style profile nicely, but is released to be available from January through April each year. Talking specifics, Märzens typically come in around 5% to 6% ABV and all will be in the same range of color with the majority having a beautiful clear reddish-amber color. While hops are present in these beers, they are notably in the background and offer more in the aroma than in flavor, leaving the majority of flavor up to the roasted malt. Märzen beers are well-balanced to slightly leaning towards malty, with flavors of bread, crackers, and toasted malt. Some American versions will feature slightly more hop character, but typically these beers are all about the malt. Today we brew beers whenever we like, and thanks to science, refrigeration, and brewing innovation, the brewers of today don’t have to wrap their brewing up in March, and we get to enjoy some pretty amazing beers all year long.
Locally Available Commercial Märzens
CraftPittsburgh | issue #36
• Märzen | Penn Brewery • Dogtoberfest | Flying Dog • Festbier | Helicon Brewing • OktoberFish | Flying Fish Brewing • Festbier | Victory Brewing • Goose Fest Bier | Goose Island • Franz | Rhinegeist Brewery • Stoudt's Fest | Stoudts Brewing • Fat Head's Oktoberfest | Fat Head's • Creekfestbier Lager | Neshaminy Creek
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Largering Cave
photo courtesy of DraftMag.com
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CraftPittsburgh | issue #36
Penn's caves It's no secret that Penn Brewery is steeped in brewing history. Founded in 1986, Penn is one of the oldest modern craft breweries still in operation today. Their Troy Hill headquarters date back to a century earlier and were once the site of three historic Pittsburgh breweries: Ober Bros. Brewing Co, Eberhardt and Ober Brewing Company, and G. Siedle Brewery. Words Brian Conway Photos Buzzy Torek
T
hese breweries merged and took on different forms in the latter half of the 1800s until they were conglomerated under the Pittsburgh Brewing umbrella in 1899. The building sat largely vacant from the late 1950s until the 1980s, when Penn founder Tom Pastorius rescued the dilapidated E+O Brewery structure from demolition, opening in 1989 the first tied house in Pennsylvania since prohibition. Despite this well-documented brewing pedigree, there are still secrets that dwell behind Penn's iconic red-brick walls. “We always knew about the caves,” says partowner, Corey Little. “What was behind the brick was a complete mystery.” The caves in question date back to Eberhardt and Ober, which was founded in 1848. Since this was before the invention of refrigeration, E+O blasted caves into the hillside to keep their beer from spoiling during the summer months. (Historically, German brewers would brew a hearty Märzen in the spring, and then forego brewing until cooler temperatures arrived in the fall, at which point the Märzen would be tapped for Oktoberfest.) These lagering caves were in use for at least a few decades—Penn assumes the Ober Brothers had installed refrigeration by the 1880s because fire insurance records from the time don't mention them. From the turn of the century until today the caves were largely forgotten, used on occasion to store construction debris and somewhere for bored local teens to explore at night. In 2012, when Penn was having repair work done on the outdoor biergarten, they asked their mason to cut out some of the concrete blocking one of the entrances. What happened next was completely unexpected: Little, along with Penn co-owner Linda Nyman's husband, Stuart, grabbed their flashlights and headed back into the caves. They found a network of four main tunnels, with side tunnels that connect them all together and extending over 100 feet into the hillside. Deep inside one of the caves Little and Nyman came across eight enormous barrels, easily 10 feet in diameter apiece. They're so big, in fact, that Penn is certain that they had to be assembled in the caves themselves – they're just too big to have been brought in from outside. For 150 years old the barrels are in remarkably good shape, but they show their age: two of the eight have collapsed, and the others are covered in calcium and badly waterlogged – the result of spending over a century forgotten in near 100 percent humidity. Unsure of how to proceed, they turned to engineering graduate students at University of Pittsburgh for assistance. Their research determined that the barrels were made from
white oak and bonded with iron hoops. They believe the barrels have another 15 years before they disintegrate. If Penn tries to remove the barrels it would be akin to raising a shipwreck from underseas, says Little—they just couldn't the adapt to the new environment. Furthermore, restoration would be extremely costly: “solutions were of an expense level that you would consider if you were trying to preserve an ancient Greek ship.” Today, the barrels remain where they've stayed for the past century and a half. Penn is considering opening at least a portion of the caves to the public, but for now they remain off-limits to the public until progress can be made on clearing out debris from the caves and stabilizing the walls and ceilings. In the meantime, the barrels can be viewed through a window inside a small grotto in the biergarten. The caves themselves occupy three levels, and as Penn's operation expands there's talk of pushing back a small portion of the brewery itself into the adjacent caves. Just don't expect Penn's head brewer, Nick Rosich, to rescue any yeast from these long-forgotten barrels. “There have probably been 20 different people to ask me about that,” he says. “Even if there's yeast in there similar to brewer's yeast, I wouldn't trust it.”
Dried pieces of a collapsed barrel
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CraftPittsburgh.com
Merry Fishmas
PITTSBURGH It’s officially Lent, which in Pittsburgh means it’s that magical time of year we like to call Fishmas. After a very informal Facebook poll asking "Where's the best place for fried fish and a beer" we set out on a cross county road trip to visit some of your favorite spots. There are only so many giant fish sandwiches you can eat in a single day, if we didn't make it to your favorite, hit us up @CraftPittsburgh and let us know where else we should check out.
CraftPittsburgh | issue #36
STOP #1
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Cole's Pub
colespub.com 527 U.S. 30, Imperial, PA 15126 Fish: Battered and breaded Icelandic cod on a Mancini hoagie roll Beer: Tröegs - Scratch #312 Double IPA (Lemondrop) ProTip: Skip the fries and go with the homemade mac & cheese, it's amazing.
Photos Buzzy Torek
STOP #2
Piper's Pub
piperspub.com 1828 E Carson St, Pittsburgh, PA 15203 Fish: Traditional fish & chips. Hand battered haddock with house made tartar sauce. Beer: Full Pint - White Lightning ProTip: If you don't get the mushy peas, you're doing it wrong.
STOP #3
Elwood's Pub
elwoodspub.com 163 Little Deer Creek Valley Rd, Rural Ridge, PA 15075 Fish: Freshly battered cod fillet, toasted bun, with or without cheese. Beer: Great Lakes - Eliot Ness
CraftPittsburgh.com
ProTip: If you're looking to spice things up, check out the wall of hot sauce.
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STOP #4
Nied's Hotel
niedshotel.myfastsite.com 5438 Butler St, Pittsburgh, PA 15201 Fish: Breaded haddock, lettuce, tomato, and cheese. Beer: IC Light
CraftPittsburgh | issue #36
ProTip: Nied's is as Pittsburgh as it gets. They have a few different beers but you really only have two choices, Iron City or Iron City Light.
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THE NEW LOOK OF
BEER BUSINESS CHRONICLES Words Jason Cercone
R
ivertowne Brewing has been part of Pittsburgh beer culture since the turn of the 21st century. When Christian Fyke took ownership of the Rivertowne Inn in Verona in 2002, his vision was to create a friendly, neighborhood bar that featured high-quality craft beer and approachable food on the menu. By today's standards, that's the norm. But 16 years ago, craft beer had yet to experience its current meteoric rise and devoting taps to unknown, "different" beers was an incredible risk.
CraftPittsburgh | issue #36
That risk paid off. Rivertowne has grown from a local watering hole in the Pittsburgh outskirts to several restaurants, a full-scale production and canning facility, hundreds of employees, and a distribution footprint spanning five states. Their portfolio has grown and evolved in numerous ways throughout the years and the current brewing team is pushing the limits of innovation and ingenuity with every beer that graces the kettle. Their core lineup features popular offerings including Hala Kahiki Pineapple Ale, Mosaic IPA, and Grateful White Belgian Witbier ... just to name a few.
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Taking strides toward the next chapter of Rivertowne Brewing, Fyke and company decided it was time to put a fresh coat of paint on their finetuned machine. The brand that has been identified with Wylie, the iconic fish mascot seen donning most packaging, is taking a dynamic right turn - reshaping and redesigning their logo, packaging, product portfolio, image, and mindset to create the best connection possible with today's diverse craft beer community. The new visual direction is designed to appeal to those who embrace the outdoors and capture the true essence of "My Rivertowne."
Embarking on a total brand redesign is no easy task. In order to execute said task efficiently, Fyke turned to an old confidant with years of industry experience to help direct Rivertowne Brewing down this new path. Rob Johnson was named vice president of sales & marketing for Rivertowne Brewing in late 2017 and he's hit the ground running since returning to Pittsburgh after a lengthy absence. His resume touts over 15 years of industry experience, having worked as a national sales manager for Blue Point Brewing Company and a divisional manager for Oskar Blues. Locally, Johnson spent time as a brewer at Church Brew Works and a sales representative for Galli Distributing, Rivertowne’s present Pittsburgh wholesaler, where he built a strong relationship with Fyke while servicing the Rivertowne Inn and other sister restaurants throughout Pittsburgh. No stranger to the scene despite working outside of Pittsburgh the past several years, Johnson has kept a watchful eye over the continued growth and expansion of the brand. Rivertowne currently operate restaurants in Verona, North Huntingdon, North Shore, and Monroeville, as well as Pittsburgh’s largest craft beer production and canning facility with a tasting room that hosts live music and events weekly in Export. Through it all, they’ve stayed loyal to their founding philosophies: brewing good beer and giving people great venues in which to enjoy it. In this in-depth interview, Johnson shares his experience in the beer industry and how it led him back to Pittsburgh, eager to tackle Rivertowne's redesign and take one of Steel City's longest-tenured breweries to new levels of success.
You've seen a lot of growth and development in the beer industry since you first started out. What is a trend that has become popular that you never thought would happen? There’s been a lot of different trends in the industry over the past 20 years. I think it’s natural for folks to raise a brow upon initially hearing about some of the various innovations as they are presented, but all of these innovations are exactly what makes the American craft beer movement so exciting. As a former professional brewer, when I first heard about the New England IPA craze, I thought to myself, “People on the West Coast must be laughing at us over here on the right coast serving beers that look like they were pulled straight from the fermenter.” The old curmudgeon brewer inside of me didn’t want to accept or like the style upon first introduction, but that has since changed. Not only do I totally get why people dig the style, but I have grown to appreciate the style. Personally, I prefer mine to be lactose and flour-free, but that’s a subjective opinion.
What is one thing you know about the beer industry now that you wish you would've known when you were first starting out? I didn’t hesitate to jump into the industry with both feet. I was head over heels about beer back in those days and all of my decisions stemmed directly from the overwhelming passion I had about creating and enjoying beer. That’s not to suggest I am any less passionate now, but over a 15+ year career spanning over many different facets of the industry, I believe it is natural for your interest and passion to change. I am much more into the sales and marketing aspects of the business these days. I wish I would have known how many different possible positions were available in the industry when I was first starting out. I would have taken that leap even earlier.
Are there any elements of the craft beer industry you would change? That’s a tough one. I love so many different elements of the industry. I think it would be great for the industry if more chain stores would force the AB InBev and SAB Miller wholesalers to relinquish power over creating their cooler and shelf sets and take over the process of creating the sets themselves. Naturally, they would want to continue to utilize IRI and scan data to help make those decisions, but more craft breweries and consumers would benefit if these chain buyers were making these decisions themselves.
my interest and investigate the possibilities, we discovered that the timing of his need for someone with my skill set and my vision for the future of Rivertowne Brewing aligned perfectly for the both of us. We finally had an opportunity to work directly with one another.
What were some of the challenges you faced as you came on board with Rivertowne and re-entered the Pittsburgh beer scene? Anytime you come into an organization on this level, there are challenges you have accepted up front – branding, portfolio composition, sales management, wholesaler management, business planning, and ultimately increasing overall profitability. There will always be other challenges discovered in the process, when met with the right approach and experience, will also benefit the greater good of the company. All of these challenges are being discussed, addressed, and extinguished. We are improving our overall health in every facet. As one of the top two producing craft breweries in the Pittsburgh area, we have a responsibility to lead and provide a path for any smaller craft brewery out there who might have similar aspirations moving forward.
Give us some insight about updating the overall look of the Rivertowne brand and how it all came together. The Rivertowne brand was built around Wylie, the familiar fish mascot that has been utilized from the time Christian purchased the Rivertowne Inn in 2002 through present day. Wylie had a nice run for the first 15 years of our business. A time comes in every business when you need to re-evaluate your branding and marketing. The direction for the new branding really came about with a question we asked ourselves – What do we like to do in our spare time? Swimming, kayaking, fishing, tubing, camping, and drinking some suds in the afternoon on our boats were the activities that came to mind. These are activities that we feel are enjoyed in all river communities across the state of Pennsylvania and beyond. Additionally, our web address is myrivertowne.com. I wanted to focus on further developing the, “my” in #myrivertowne. We feel the new branding is energetic, fun, and easily relatable to folks who enjoy the same river recreation we enjoy here in Pittsburgh, regardless of their walk of life. This direction allowed us to create a cohesive feel to the brand which may have been missing in the past. The focus was really on making the imagery fun. Having fun is something we feel the craft brewing industry has lost a bit of over time. We have to run a business, but we want to have fun while we do it and not take ourselves too seriously.
What is the most rewarding moment you've ever had working in the beer industry? There’s been a ton of rewarding moments over the years as you would imagine—brewing my first professional batch of beer, first successful chain call, and many, many instances of watching sales reps grow from where I found them to where they ultimately ended up in their careers which is really what I enjoy the most. I’m hopeful the upcoming rebrand and reinvigorated portfolio at Rivertowne trumps all of these previous experiences.
I first met the Rivertowne brand and shortly thereafter, Christian, in 2002 when he took ownership of the Rivertowne Inn in Verona, Pa. At the time, I was a brewer at the Church Brew Works and purchased my first home in the nearby Rosedale community. I found the Inn to be a great local location for fairly priced, good-quality food and beer. I worked with Christian over the years as a Galli Distributing Sales Representative, National Sales Manager for Blue Point Brewing Company, and Eastern Divisional Manager for Oskar Blues Brewing Company. I graduated from the University of Pittsburgh, spent 12 years here, and have always been fond of the area. When I initially approached Christian to share
What should consumers look for from the Rivertowne brand in 2018 and beyond? You’re going to find a more modern, professional look to the new branding. Nothing so different that it will appear foreign to the fans that have been with us over the years, but certainly different. Folks will find some old favorites in our year-round core line-up like Hala Kahiki, Grateful White, and EZ. There will be five additional brands rounding out our year-round core focus: 1) Jump! IPA, 2) Float Trip IPA, 3) Class V IPA, 4) Hazy Morning IPA, and 5) Dock Party IPA Mix Pack.
CraftPittsburgh.com
What was it about the Rivertowne brand that drew you back to Pittsburgh?
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canSOURCE
Jump! IPA – 6.1% ABV, 80 IBU - American IPA with flavor complexity ranging from berries, mangos, tropical and stone fruits to grass and resin. In life, there are jumpers and observers. This beer was created for the jumpers.
Hazy Morning IPA – 6.7% ABV, 36 IBU - New England-style IPA with an assertive grapefruit aroma and fresh, green hop flavors that snap your palate to attention and leave you wanting more.
canSOURCE
Float Trip IPA – 5.2% ABV, 30 IBU - Hop-forward pale ale with a big tropical bouquet and taste in the front end, a pleasing mouthfeel, and wellbalanced bitter finish that begs you to take another drink. This beer will appeal to a wide variety of drinkers including “non-IPA” drinkers and has an ABV which allows you to stay afloat throughout the day.
Dock Party IPA Mix Pack – This party pack of IPAs includes all four of the aforementioned IPAs and equips you to receive guaranteed invites to all of your friends’ upcoming parties. Like your crew, each of these four IPAs have unique personalities. There are three cans of each IPA included in this pack which provides you with plenty to spread around and share.
CraftPittsburgh | issue #36
We are really excited to introduce these new brands and packaging to everyone. Rivertowne Brewing has always brewed great beer. We expect the new branding will have people reaching for our cans to reinvestigate and discover this to be true. You can expect to find these six-pack and 12pack cans on the shelves in April 2018. If you can’t wait that long, make a trip to one of our five locations to check these beers out on draft in March 2018. I have a feeling you will be very pleased with the liquid you find in your pint.
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We will also have six seasonally released brands, including the highly regarded Suburban Housewife Blackberry Cucumber Kolsch, and six Lab Rat Specialty releases in much less supply than previous years. Keep an eye out on our website, social media handles, and beyond for our release calendar. Your best bet would be signing up for our monthly newsletter at myrivertowne.com/contact-us . Simply click on “Join Our Email List” at the bottom of the page. canSOURCE
Class V IPA – 8.2% ABV, 60 IBU - American Double IPA with a built-in disclaimer in the name and imagery. Class V is the classification for the most difficult rapids that a kayaker or rafter would come in contact with on their journey. This beer is overflowing with citrus, pine, and resiny hop flavors which could knock you around if you’re not careful.
Jason Cercone is the founder of Breaking Brews and is the executive director of Pittsburgh Libations Week. Learn more by visiting breakingbrews.com.
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hoppy couple
THE LEANING CASK BREWING COMPANY CraftPittsburgh | issue #36
850 Pittsburgh Street, Springdale leaningcaskbrewing.com
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Joe
Location
The Leaning Cask Brewing Company is located a short drive northeast of Pittsburgh in a small riverfront town called Springdale, Pa ... on Pittsburgh Street. That’s easy to remember, right? Springdale is minutes from many other fantastic places that The Hoppy Couple has already written about, including Elwood’s Pub, Dancing Gnome Brewery, and Grist House Craft
Brewery, to name a few. Interestingly, Springdale is also home to the Rachel Carson Homestead which is a four-room farmhouse and birthplace of local environmentalist, Rachel Carson. You may have heard of her bridge ... or crazy-long 35-mile wilderness footrace that only the toughest runners compete in.
Beer
Oh boy, where to start? As their name suggests, Leaning Cask is pretty into cask ales. What is a cask ale? Well, they have some awesome cards on the bar that answer that exact question! The short of it ... think of a cask ale like a beer you naturally carbonate in a bottle, except it’s a much bigger bottle. They generally have a new cask ale special every week and it is usually ONLY served as a cask style. When we were there, I had the pleasure of trying their cask at the time called Irish Setter Red. It was cask-conditioned and dry-hopped, as well, so this ale was ultra smooth, kind of like a nitro, and had a nice crisp hoppy bite. The way they pump these cask ales with their industry-leading Angram system is something to see so make sure you grab a seat at the bar.
Atmosphere
Large, spacious, and accommodating is how I would describe the atmosphere at Leaning Cask. A long bar, a private room, table seating, and even some couches are all options when visiting the brewery. We sat at the bar and got to talk to husband-and-wife owners, Josh and Stef, and learn all about their vision, their beer, and why they do what they do. We had a blast chatting with them! All of the staff working there that we interacted with were top notch and really, the time flew by. Already having plans to expand within their building, they have really hit the ground running. Be sure to keep up to date with what new developments are coming!
Food
A trend that should be quite obvious if you’ve been heading out to breweries around the city is that the symbiotic brewery/food truck relationship is a sure winner. Leaning Cask has food trucks pretty much from Wednesday through Sunday, every week, and they bring a wide variety of food styles. On the day we were there, Tango, an authentic Argentinian food truck, was parked out front serving some pretty delicious stuff. I tried their fried steak sandwich, the
Milanesa Sandwich, topped with some of the best chimichurri sauce I’ve ever had ... and I’ve been to Gaucho. Be sure to check out Leaning Cask’s Instagram feed for their food truck schedule each week!
Amanda Location
Leaning Cask is tucked away in the small downtown area of Springdale, PA. Springdale may be a small town but that just makes Leaning Cask all the more popular of a main attraction. Before becoming the hotspot brewery it is today, the Leaning Cask property, built in 1903, was a local hardware store for years before becoming the popular record store, B & D Records. Springdale is also not far from The Galleria at Pittsburgh Mills, Aspinwall, Sharpsburg, and Millvale.
Beer
Have you ever been to an English pub ... in England? Well Leaning Cask owners, Josh and Stef, have been to plenty and have brought the true style and flavor of English ales right back home to Pittsburgh. Josh and Stef brew all of the beer themselves and are not afraid to think ‘outside the box’ and create some experimental brews. They create an incredible variety from nitro stouts to English ciders, from IPAs to olde ales, and of course, their specialty cask ales. Furthermore, each of their special brews is named after a dog breed that originated from the same area that the beer is styled. Their personal favorite pup-named ales are Mosaic Mastiff and Midnight Moo (named after their own dog’s nickname, Moo Moo). Can you say “clever attention to detail” much?! Not only are they pioneering cask ales in our area, but they may be the first local brewery to offer a “Mug Club”. This elite club already has a long waiting list but if you’re lucky enough to get your exclusive mug, you can expect all kinds of top secret goodies.
Atmosphere
I truly cannot say enough about Leaning Cask and they’re not even a year old yet! As soon as you walk through their doors, you’re transported to a local English pub surrounded by friends and family. Josh and Stef put their heart into this endeavor and it shows in every detail: the cozy corner couches by the windows; the quirky dog paintings adorning the walls; the handmade chalk signs and hanging mug racks; and even the thoughtful indoor bathroom specially designed for dogs (no, I’m not kidding!...and yes, they have human bathrooms, too!). They have only been open about eight months and they nailed every detail from the start. They already have plans to expand even further into their three story building (maybe even the rooftop!) in the future!
Food
Summary
Without really needing to say it, DEFINITELY check out Leaning Cask in Springdale and while you are at, take a short journey to old world London via their awesome English-style ales. It's obvious the owners and staff put a lot of passion and effort into every part of Leaning Cask ... so pay them tribute and go get a pint!
CraftPittsburgh.com
As Joe said, finding food trucks at breweries is quite the awesome trend and Leaning Cask embraces that, as well. They offer food trucks most days they are open and spread the love around by working with different trucks each week to keep it interesting! Some of their truck visitors include Alberta’s (a Hoppy Couple favorite), Pittsburgh Tortas, Franktuary, Billu’s Indian Grill, and Ash & Kris Greek Kitchen ... definitely something for everyone! During our visit, we had Argentinian from Tango and my chicken bowl with rice was delicious. Their food is high quality and high flavor so definitely check them out. If you’re not into dining on wheels, House of 1,000 Beers is a few minutes away across the river and worth the quick trip.
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Words Tom Marshall Photos Jeff Zoet
My name is Tom, and I have been working in the craft beer industry in one capacity or another over the past six years. Pin Pals is a bi-monthly installment where I interview a veritable who's who of the craft beer world at a bowling alley. We drink beer, shoot the shit, and of course bowl. In this installment, we are bowling and chatting with Chris Harris: the owner & brewer at Black Frog Brewery, Mike Potter of Black Brew Culture, and Day Bracey: Comedian & co-host of the Drinking Partners Podcast about the role African Americans play in the craft beer industry.
10 Frames / 10 Beers Light
Voodoo
Dark
Black Frog*
Little
Full Pint
Big
Perrin
Killapilz Ebony Prince T-Funk No Rules [2016] OH10
Imperial Pilsner
7.5% ABV
Milk Stout
6.0% ABV
Berliner Weisse
4.5% ABV
Vietnamese Coffee Porter
15.0% ABV
Pale Ale
5.3% ABV
Sugar Cane Wild Saison
8.0% ABV
Red Ale
6.5% ABV
Pale
Black Frog*
Sour
Island to Island*
Malt
White Lion*
Wheat
Old Nation
The Fine Stranger Double Dry Hopped Saison
6.5% ABV
Wyndridge Farm
Crafty Cranberry
Cider
5.5% ABV
Helles Lager
5.1% ABV
Wild Card Import
Hofbräu
*African American Brewed or Owned
Island Squared Insane Mane
Original
Tell us about yourself. CHRIS: I am Chris Harris. I am the owner and head brewer at Black Frog Brewery in Holland, Ohio. I was born and raised in Toledo, Ohio. I spent ten years in the United States Army. When I got out and moved back to Toledo, I worked for the government in the Social Security Administration, and I began looking for a hobby. I picked up a ‘Mr. Beer Kit’ and started home brewing. It grew from a hobby into a passion to where I am right now with the brewery. I opened the Black Frog taproom in September of 2016, and I like brewing various American styles of beer. MIKE: My name is Mike Potter. I am the founder and EIC of Black Brew Culture Magazine, and I love craft beer. I started Black Brew Culture to get more visibility in the African-American sector of the craft beer industry. I first got into craft beer with home brewing in 2014, and with my marketing and branding professional background, I decided to start a magazine and lifestyle brand in 2015. As I started to reach out and develop the brand and concept, people were very receptive. I offered my assistance in anyway I could in the early days and would travel to breweries to help with canning or bottling. I was always glad to get involved because I had faith in what the owners where doing, and knew my assistance would in some way help them get their name on the map.
If you were a beer, what type would you be? CHRIS: That’s easy. I love Dragon’s Milk from New Holland Brewery...any variety of Dragon’s Milk would be me. MIKE: If I were a beer, I’d be a Double IPA because I am complex, strong, flavorful, and aromatic. And hoppy AF. At first I thought a barrel-aged Imperial Stout. Boozy, seventeen percent, but nah, Double IPA describes me better. DAY: Wow... I would probably be a chili beer. A chocolate chili beer. I’m dark, taste good, best in doses, and a little spicy. I am one and done. What was the last beer you had (outside of your comfort zone) that you really enjoyed? CHRIS: That’s a really hard question, I am not a really big fan of Belgian beer and don’t tend to gravitate toward them, but I did have a Belgian Golden Strong from Granite City in Maumee, Ohio. I like cleaner beers with less yeast flavor, but it was fantastic. MIKE: Island to Island - Island Squared and Harlem Brewery - Renaissance Wit. Those are two styles I’m not real big on. I am not a Saison/sour guy and I get mild reactions to wheat beers occasionally. But those two are really good and I drink them whenever they’re in season. DAY: Actually, the Hofbräu I’m drinking right now. I haven’t had a lot of imports. This is bready, it’s malty, it’s light so you can have a few of them. I stick away from lighter beers, and its every thing I don’t really fuck with. It reminds me of what they are doing at Helicon with German lagers and taking it back down to lower ABV, more sessionable beers, heavy on the flavor. Who / What can you attribute your love of craft beer to? CHRIS: Nobody but myself. There wasn’t a particular brewery or person that brought me in. It was all self discovery. MIKE: I am a creative and explorative type of person so I started to experiment with craft beer in 2003 or so. Also, I’m a self-proclaimed amateur cook, and flavor profiles really intrigue me. But if I had to pin it to one person that really pushed me into the industry that would be Scott Smith at East End Brewing. I had a house in Point Breeze and stumbled upon his brewery when it was on Susquehanna Street. He taught me a lot about how beers are made and different beer styles. He took time out to help me learn what craft beer was about.
DAY: I can attribute my love of beer to my taste buds and alcoholism. I enjoy drinking. I also love food, and I’ve always had a fondness for cooking. I enjoy flavor, and when I was introduced to beer that had flavor, it was a perfect marriage. I even wanted to be chef back in high school. I was going to have a comedy cooking show. None of that ever happened, but Drinking Partners is as close as I’ll have. It’s a comedy craft beer show. Why do you think African Americans are such a small percentage of the craft beer scene both consumers and on the production side? CHRIS: As far as consumers, I don’t think that craft breweries are targeting the African American community. If I was to go into an urban neighborhood where I live at, there no craft beer on sale there. I mean you have to go somewhere else to get craft beer. Next there’s price point. In the inner city, the income usually isn’t very high so the price of the craft beer is usually over $5 and there’s not much of a value in that because they can get a cheap beer for a dollar. We do get some African Americans in our taproom just not a lot. As far as the production side, I don’t think the job opportunities that are out there are interesting to them (African Americans). In the Toledo area, I am the only African American brewer that includes brewery assistants. I would love to see more African Americans in craft beer, especially on the product side. The more different kinds of people you have in the craft beer industry, the more perspectives you can tap into and palates that you can reach. MIKE: So from the consumer standpoint, black people tend to stick to certain brands and a certain styles. Sometimes not dictated by us. Once we find a comfort level, we don’t venture off from that very easily. That has posed problems in other areas economically outside of craft beer but that is a different topic for another day. Also, from a consumer standpoint it has much to do with what may or may not be accessible to a targeted demographic. Marketing and branding has been targeted a certain way toward African-Americans for years. In the early days, if it wasn’t the Budweisers, the Miller’s or the cheap malt liquors, we would jokingly deem it as “white people beer.” From a production standpoint, it takes money, know-how, training and business knowledge to get into production and ownership and those things were not as common in our culture. But that is now changing, in a major way. DAY: I think there’s a lot of factors. First and foremost I think craft beer is a middle class luxury. People with disposable income can try new things. They are able to travel to various breweries and cities to try different craft beers. With the black culture being the poorest section of America, they are going to be last to come on to something that isn’t from their culture
CraftPittsburgh.com
DAY: I’m Day Bracey. I drink, and I talk shit. I’m a comedian and half of the Drinking Partners podcast with myself and Ed Bailey (2X winners of The City Paper’s Best of Burgh). I produce, I podcast, and a large part of what I do is I drink craft beer while I talk shit. My goal in life is to be paid as much as I possibly can for being myself.
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Left to Right: Day Bracey, Chris Harris, and Mike Potter
and also has price tag on it and risk involved. There is risk when you go out and you have twenty bucks to spend, are you going spend five bucks on a beer that I might not like or am I going to go with the classics. Do African Americans have a lack of access and exposure to craft beer and does that lead to/create the lack of diversity in the craft beer industry? CHRIS: I wish there was a fix to get more African Americans in the craft beer industry as consumers, but I am really surprised that the bigger craft breweries haven’t made an attempt to reach out to minority drinkers and give them access to craft beer in their neighborhoods. This market, which is a large portion of the American population, remains relatively untapped and underexposed to craft beer.
CraftPittsburgh | issue #36
MIKE: Traditionally, African Americans haven’t seen craft beer where they reside. So there was very little access to it; therefore, virtually no way to experience how craft beer differs from big beer or malt liquor. Many “role models” and symbols of the black community (e.g. rappers, athletes and actors) create material (art) that targets poorer people (regardless of race) and glamorize unhealthy and poor quality products. This has very little to do with race but has everything to do with money. That is pretty much the case with all of the socioeconomic and demographic problems in American society. By limiting resources and exposure to a particular group, the effect is the group choosing whatever items are marketed to them and most accessible. So that is one of the major goals of our magazine and brand and other organizations like The Drinking Partners, Dope and Dank and BACB. With positive exposure and more representation you’ll start to see more black people finding their way to craft beer.
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DAY: Most craft breweries are in white neighborhoods, so these breweries are not in your hometown. You have to leave your comfort zone to even go to one, and you go to one you are the only there that looks like you when you get in. And nobody likes to be the only one in the room that looks like them. It’s human nature. You tend to be comfortable around people that look like you. A mixed atmosphere is one thing, but a homogenous one is different. ‘Why am paying all this money and doing all this extra to get into this environment that I am not comfortable?’
What are the hurdles to overcome to get a larger portion of the black community involved in the craft beer industry/scene? CHRIS: We would need to get some form of craft beer into the urban communities first of all. There’s good craft beer at a good price point. You can probably buy a Sierra Nevada Pale or a Fat Tire for the same price as a Heineken for instance. So why aren’t these craft beers being sold in the urban communities? I don’t think there’s a push from a distribution standpoint to get these craft beers into different hands. We need to change our selling culture first and foremost. Also African American don’t see people like them in craft beer. Once African Americans see more minority faces in the craft beer scene, it will push more minorities into the craft beer scene. MIKE: It’s not an issue of a lack of inclusion and diversity in the craft beer scene. It’s more an issue within our community. Certain cultures are adamant about defining who they are as a culture through economic empowerment, and they’re not concerned with wanting to be accepted. If they offer a product that is specific to their culture, and you don’t like it, they are not going to change it to meet your tastes. If you don’t like it go elsewhere. As a consumer, they’re expecting you to be there for the experience and nothing more. I do think it would help to have more brown faces involved in the operations of these craft breweries, but only if cultural diversity is a part of their core values. It does bother me when a company exists and they have zero people of color in it. But, it bothers me even more when so many of our people are ok with that and go out of their way to support them. I don’t care what brand it is, if they are not positively impacting our community or respecting our dollar then we don’t need to support their brand as loyally as we sometimes do. Regardless of your race or background, if a brewery doesn’t want your support, send us an email or visit our site. We have a huge list of one’s that do. DAY: The biggest hurdle is education. A lot of people don’t know you can do this yourself, and that getting involved in craft beer is as easy as buying a beer kit and making it at home. You can learn the basics, and its very satisfying. The second is the stigma of what craft beer is. Craft beer is not just hoppy, it’s not one dimensional at all and there are beers
What is “The Fresh Festival” and what do you hope it will accomplish? Is your hope that as the craft beer scene diversifies, it will eliminate the need for events like this? MIKE: Our goal with Fresh Festival is to get more exposure to black brewers and brewery owners on a national level and to have a dope ass time with our friends in the community as a whole. Black, white… whatever. It just happens that we are black men and we know other black creatives. When the industry gets more diverse and the exposure and distribution starts to balance out more, Fresh Fest will still be here trying to raise the bar. The Fresh Festival is on Saturday, August 11th at Threadbare Cider and Meadery in Spring Garden. DAY: The Fresh Festival is the first black beer festival in Pittsburgh. We want to introduce black people that are in the craft beer scene to the local beer scene. We want to bring black brewers from around the country, and we also want to bring local brewers into the fest. The purpose is to acclimate the black community with craft beer in the hopes that the black community will have a stake in the profit that is craft beer. A lot of money is spent on alcohol and most of it does not stay in our community. As the scene diversifies The Fresh Festival will be similar to the St Patrick’s Day parade, the Bloomfield Italian festival, Oktoberfest, they are all
celebrations of culture. Right now there’s a need for it so we can bring our culture in so we can get a bigger piece. Eventually it will become a celebration of our contributions to the craft beer scene. How can the readers connect with you? CHRIS: You can connect with us on blackfrogbrewery.com or you can follow us on FaceBook and Instagram: @BlackFrogBrewery and Twitter: @BlackFrogBrewer. You can visit our brew pub on Thursday & Friday from 4:30pm-10pm and Saturday from 3pm-10pm. MIKE: We are at blackbrewculture.com and the online magazine will be launching in late February. We are on Instagram, Twitter, and Facebook: @blackbrewculture. You can find information about the Fresh Festival on ours and the Drinking Partner’s social media networks this week! DAY: You can find me @daybracey everywhere (Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, etc)...total brand continuity. You can find The Drinking Partners at EpicastNetwork.com/PartnerPod. You can also find podcast on: iTunes, Stitcher, and GooglePlay under Drinker Partners. You can follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram: @PartnersPod. Tom Marshall is in the persuasion business. He is Sales & Marketing Manager for Full Pint Brewing Company, the President of Pittsburgh Libations week, and a bowling enthusiast. Twitter: @thomas_poet Special thanks to our friends at Crafton Ingram Lanes, the official bowling alley of PinPals. If you're looking to do some BYOB bowling check them out.
craftoningramlanes.com
CraftPittsburgh.com
out there that fit your palate. The third is economics. We need to build the community up to where they afford to buy craft beer and even start their own craft breweries. Additionally, a lack of people that look like them (African Americans) making craft beer. Representation matters. When I see people that look like me doing something I at least know that I am capable of doing that. As a comedian, that’s how I started producing shows because the people around me were producing. It means a lot to see somebody that you can relate to accomplish something. It gives you hope and inspires you. ‘If they can do that, I can do that.’
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plates & pints
the
commoner
CraftPittsburgh | issue #36
Words Brian Conway Photos Buzzy Torek
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THERE IS NO MORE SATISFYING WAY TO EXPERIENCE PITTSBURGH'S 21ST CENTURY REVIVAL THAN TO INDULGE IN ITS BLOSSOMING FOOD AND BEVERAGE SCENE. We might snicker when out-of-town publications print stories overflowing with shock and surprise that this “depressed former mill town� offers mouthwatering cuisine and world-class beer, but that's only because, to us, it's no surprise. The hype? It's real, and well-deserved. This is the fourth edition of Plates and Pints, where we ask some of the best restaurants in Pittsburgh today to create an unforgettable three-course meal, each dish paired with a different beer, to celebrate the artistry and commitment it takes to craft such culinary delights. This month, we're at The Commoner. Tucked inside the Kimpton Hotel Monaco, this gastropub stands out in Downtown's crowded dining scene by delivering a thoughtful dining experience that deftly blends the classic with the contemporary. It's a frigid Monday night when we arrive. We're greeted by restaurant manager, Chelsea Yeager, and bar manager, Alex Dando, who greets us with a hearty smile and a tray of Old Fashioned's. It was to be one of those nights. Designed by New York's Mark Zeff Design Company, The Commoner's spacious interior, with its exposed steel beams and zinc-topped bar, feels as fitting for 2018 as it would 1918. Dark wooden tables run parallel the bar while snug tables for two flank adjacent.
Even though one could imagine a top-hatted Henry Clay Frick and Andrew Carnegie stopping in for oysters and an Old Fashioned after a long day chomping cigars with industry elites, The Commoner is a place for all of Pittsburgh.
“I'm always thinking about what's next versus what we're doing now. Of course you focus on quality now, but I'm always two to three menus ahead.” “The name speaks for itself,” says Executive Chef Wyatt Lash. “We want to be presentable and approachable to anyone and everyone.” Opened in 2015, Lash's kitchen not only looks after the restaurant but also the hotel's banquets and catering. There's also a rooftop biergarten (open during the warmer months) and The Commoner Corner, a five-seat counter that serves fresh breakfast and lunch options year-round. “It constantly changes,” he says. “I'm always thinking about what's next versus what we're doing now. Of course you focus on quality now, but I'm always two to three menus ahead.” As we await the first course, Dando, the master mixologist, tells us that the cocktail menu, like Lash's food menu, changes quarterly. For better or worse, he explains, the first thing people do with a fancy cocktail is is take a photo to share to the world on social media, so presentation must be carefully considered. Right on cue, a round of drinks arrive. The “Wish Yinz Were Beer” is a tall tropical cocktail made with Plantation rum, Hennessy, and Omnipollo's raspberry crème brulee sour, garnished with dehydrated flowers and blood orange. It's an elevated, easy-drinking, and endlessly complex twist on tiki that's almost too beautiful to drink.
CraftPittsburgh | issue #36
As we sip (and snapchat) our cocktails, the first course arrives: crispy cauliflower, garnished with charred eggplant, tahini, crispy chickpeas, coconut flake and harissa yogurt. Light, crispy, and bursting with flavor, it could be served in buckets at the movies in lieu of popcorn.
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The dish is accompanied by an Evil Twin / Westbrook collaboration NEIPA, The Limits of My Language are the Limits of My World. Dando, a former philosophy major, points out that the name is a twist on a quote from Wittgenstein, though it doesn't take a genius to realize that this hazy juice bomb pairs wonderfully with the spicy harissa. The draft list at The Commoner includes a few tried and tested crowd-pleasers, like Genesse and Yuengling, alongside local offerings from the likes of Hop Farm and Helltown, among others.
Next up, the showstopper: an expertly cooked and trimmed ribeye, served medium rare, stacked atop smashed crispy spuds and punctuated with pickled mustard seed, foie gras butter, pearl onions, grilled broccolini, and a housemade gravy made with Left Hand Bittersweet milk stout. Steak and potatoes: hardly a new idea, but Lash's reinterpretation of this classic dish is a revelation, each ingredient in harmony with the next to create an entree that's somehow greater than the sum of its parts. Lash, who grew up in Lancaster County, says that The Commoner's classic-meetscontemporary allows him to be completely open in his approach to crafting a menu. He calls the standard “ever-evolving.” Our steak is elevated further by Oude Bae, a sour ale from Stillwater made with pinot noir
grapes and aged on French oak. It's an ideal pairing and an obvious twist on pairing red meat with red wine. Somehow, we saved room for dessert, and good thing, too: the final dish was a rich and spongy pineapple cake, topped with dulce de leche and served with a sidecar of house-made, wood-fired tepache, a Mexican beverage made from the peel and the rind of pineapples. And if that wasn't enough, the cake was paired with Off Color brewery's Dino S'mores, a Russian imperial stout brewed with graham flour, marshmallow, molasses, cocoa nibs and vanilla bean. Under ordinary circumstances, it is hearty enough to be dessert on its own. Tonight, it is the cap to an extraordinary meal, a forwardthinking feast that any commoner would enjoy.
have you tried...
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CraftPittsburgh | issue #36
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1. S IERRA NEVADA Flipside Red IPA
3. R USTY RAIL Plums Up
This one goes out to Chad Hinton, Chad Hinton who mercilessly trolled Sierra Nevada’s Facebook to “Bring back Flipside” for years. Way to stick to your guns and make Facebook useful for things other than finding out how awfully racist your relatives are, Chad! Red IPA holds a little space in my heart, Victory Hop Devil was the beer that turned me onto wellhopped beers many, many years ago and I’m still a sucker for piney and grapefruity bitterness gently buffered with some light toffee and candy apple candy sweetness. Sierra Nevada is a master of the style, Harvest Ale, Celebration, Ruthless Rye (RIP) and for a few short years it seemed like they always a seasonal Red IPA out. Tastes evolve and so on and so forth and I’m glad to see Flipside revived and even more excited to see the same guerilla tactics that brought Flipside back used to try and bring back Ruthless Rye. So, seriously Sierra Nevada, where’s my Ruthless at?
I’m not gonna lie. I dreaded drinking and reviewing this beer. Plummy, chocolatey notes are to be created, I foolishly thought, not added after the fact all willy nilly. So, I’m wrong. One of the most beautiful parts of Belgian-ish beer that so many, outside of the Belgians, get wrong is the carbonation and mouthfeel. There’s a fine line of digestibility the Belgians walk, lighter body despite the high alcohol, rich velvety carbonation without crossing into fizzy soda pop and hidden booze. This shot out of nowhere just nails the mouthfeel. Just the perfect amount of rich and creamy carbonation in this deep amber ale. There’s a rich creamy foam that just never goes away, there’s a perfectly executed Belgian yeast character of restrained banana and bubble gum, the plum and cacao are bit players almost to the point of stage hands. This is a way too enjoyable a beer to be 9.2%, dangerous stuff, proceed with caution and wild abandon.
6.2% - IPA - sierranevada.com
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Recommended if you like: Victory - Hop Devil, The OG Green Flash Hop Head Red (RIP), Brew Gentlemen - Business Casual (RIP), Modern Times - Blazing World, Lagunitas - Imperial Red
9.2% - Belgian Strong Ale - rustyrailbrewing.com
Recommended if you like: Chimay - Rouge, Unibroue - Maudite, Bell’s - Hell Hath No Fury, Draai Laag - Simon Girty,
Words Hart Johnson Photo Mike Weiss
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2. D ARK HORSE Scotty Karate Let’s forgo the fact that beer approaching 10% alcohol isn’t exactly ingrained in Scottish culture outside of Neds smashing bottles of Buckfast Wine upside their head faster than two-time Stanley Cup Winner Phil Kessel smashes three hot dogs before a November game. Let’s look past that and say my how wonderful this big boozy glass of malt life has been improved by the addition of cherry wood smoked malt rather than peat smoked malt. Let’s not mince words, peat smoked malt makes wonderful whisky and horrible beer. Full stop. Cherry wood smoked malt on the other hand, chef kiss emoji. Let’s talk about how that sweet smoked wood flavor has wedged itself firmly into this malt forward ale that tastes like someone whipped it with red licorice rope and adds the perfect amount of not hoppy dryness. Recommended if you like: Traquair - House Ale, Leaning Cask Good Ol’ Boy, Oskar Blues - Old Chub, Fyne - Ales The Mystic, Orkney - Skullsplitter
CraftPittsburgh.com
9.75% - Scotch Ale - darkhorsebrewery.com
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4. V ICTORY Prima Pils
5.3% - German Style Pilsner - victorybeer.com
Every internet beer forum has talked about “desert island beers” and more recently twitter turned it into the #mtcrushmore hashtag game. The idea is the same, there’s thousands of different beers out there, which ones happily end up in your mouth the most. Prima Pils is easily a top 3 beer for me. If I see it on tap, I’m drinking a pint, no matter what other hazerare might also be available. I see Prima cans at my beer store, they’re getting bought. There’s a beautiful harmony of bitter and herbal German and Czech hops laid upon a clean bed of German malts, It’s clean, it’s crisp, it’s light, it’s refreshing, it pleases nerdy beer geeks, it pleases Coors Light drinkers (I have proof that it pleased at least one Coors Light drinker). It pairs beautifully with a spring sunset and a warm grill. Recommended if you like: Sly Fox - Pikeland Pils, Penn - Kaiser Pils, Sole Zillions Pilsner, All Saints - St. Josef Pils
5. E LEVENTH HOUR Beautiful Nightmare 8.5% - Double IPA - 11thhourbrews.com
Let’s talk about this silly can we have here. A 32oz Crowler with a twist-off cap. Surely, I say surely, this seemingly haphazardly seamed together tube of al-oooo-min-eee-um (English to English translation there, consult your Duolingo, it checks out) could not survive being launched off the passenger seat of Jeep onto the cold metal footwell once, let alone twice? Well, my, friends, much like the Volvo crash test ads from 1988, I wouldn't recommend it but this tough crowler lived that life. I can’t speak to the reusability of this can, but will say that lid seals very nicely between pours. Thanks for thinking about my CO2s 11th Hour. As to the beer on hand, this monstrous Double IPA remembers those piney, resinous, yet sticky sweet, Double IPA of the recent past. Deep amber in color, the hop aromas of spring pine cones and a fresh paloma are draped with candied sugar and lemon cake. You’d think a big sticky IIPA, like this, that smells like this, would be one of those chewy, viscous ol' boys. But it’s a fairly dry affair with some toasty Munich-ish malt giving a little Gene Wilder to the hop’s Richard Pryor. Recommended if you like: Avery - Maharaja, Moylan’s - Hopsickle, Fat Head's - Bone Head Red, East End - Bigger Hop, Sixpoint - Resin
6. E VIL TWIN Irish-ish Coffee Stout
CraftPittsburgh | issue #36
10.3% - Coffee Stout - eviltwin.dk
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Long, long ago on the internet, there was a meme list of Internet rules. The infamous Rule 34 stated that “if it exists, there’s porn of it” because of course there is. I’m fully prepared to issue Rule 34 of Beer, if it exists, it’s been put into beer. Mango S’mores IPA? Check. Corn husk saison? Check. Jalapeno popper cream ale? You know it. Imperial Stout with lactose sugar, demerara sugar, nutmeg, vanilla, oak spirals and coffee? Send it. Full on Evil Twin imperial stout over here, not quite the blackest stout with a nose of brewed espresso and vanilla cream, that trademark molasses-y richness and roasted barley works very well with the extra body afforded by lactose sugar. Rich and creamy finish with a loads of coffee lingering. Credit where credit is due, this is the most Irish-ish Coffee Stout I’ve had outside of just Irishing up a coffee stout with a shot of whiskey. Recommended if you like: Irish Coffee, Bells - Arabicadabra Stout, Elysian - Split Shot, New Holland - Dragon’s Milk Reserve Coffee & Chocolate, Great Divide - Espresso Oak Aged Yeti, Brew Gentlemen - Brukfurst
7. N EW BELGIUM
Voodoo Ranger Juicy Haze IPA 7.5 - IPA - newbelgium.com
This is a hazy IPA world of ours; and, as it is said, 'there are more ways than one to skin a cat,' so are there more ways than one of hazing an IPA. You’ll have to pardon my approach to this, I am a mere amateur when it comes to creating haze, I am purely an implement of destructing 16oz cans of it. So, as it comes to haze, there are many thought processes to it. Is it purely low flocculating yeast? Is it purely packaging immediately after dry hopping? Is it bioconversion of geraniol, of which is found not only in newer hops such as Citra, but also in coriander? Is it all? So, can an IPA be brewed with a low flocculating yeast, such as one typically used to make hefeweizen, heavily dry hopped and then further dry coriander-d? And still be IPA? I don’t know, I reviewed a Mango S’mores IPA on these pages, IPA is just letters anymore. So, what is Voodoo Ranger Juicy Haze? A hefeweizen witbier juice bomb crossover mixtape. You a hazeboi hypebeast? This isn’t the line for you bro. You just like beer that taste like big juicy tropical fruit without all the bitterness and don’t care about whatever a geranoil is? Here, I have a beer for you. Recommended if you like: Shubrew - Pixelated IPA Series, Omnipollo Shploing!!, Green Flash - Tropical DNA, Heavy Seas - Alpha Effect,
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brewer sit-down
RYAN SLICKER
Fury Brewing Co. - 13380 US-30, Irwin Age?
Vandergrift
a poker night over at his place like every week. His dad brought back a mixed case of Great Lakes I remember pouring Burning River into a glass and that gorgeous copper color and I remember tasting it, it was so flavorful and so well-balanced. I fell in love with that beer.
Brewing background?
Guilty pleasure beer?
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Hometown?
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If you start back from the very beginning, I use to watch my dad use his Mr. Beer Kit. Then for one of his birthdays I bought him a beer engine, which was a small step-up … more like a powdery yeast type thing. The beers were mediocre at best but it was so fun to drink your own creation. From there, I started getting into craft beer. Spent a lot of time on beer advocate on beer forums, meeting up with people having taste tests, sharing bottles and what not. My supervisor at the time was homebrewing so I talked to him about it. Brewed one extract kit. After the extract kit, I started looking up recipes online and modified them. I never looked back from there. Before even joining TRASH, I submitted three beers into their annual competition, one ended up taking best-of-show out of like, 580some people. That was my German pilsner, Poppin’ Pils. Then my IPA took second and my Imperial Stout took third in their classes.
First craft beer?
My dad used to get Killian’s and things like that, but the first beer that got me into it was during my junior year of college. My buddy Ben, we had
I have a couple. One is Stoney’s Lite and the other is of course I.C. Light. Funny story about Stoney’s Lite, we had WAZE (Westmoreland Area Zymology Enthusiasts) a couple months ago and one of the guys brought in a bottle of Stoney's and poured me a glass like it was a homebrew. I was tasting it and thought, wow this is really well-made. He said, yeah, it’s Stoney’s Lite, they redid the recipe. I went out and bought a case.
Do you brew to any music?
Usually in the morning when I come in I listen to ‘DVE or Mike and Bob on KISS after that I listen to the X and the 90s pop on Sirrus XM.
Favorite bar?
Off the top of my head, Boomerang’s at IUP because I spent a lot of time there. I don’t even know if they’re still open. They had good wings and I knew the bartender so we always had a good time. Around Pittsburgh, it used to be, Ugly Dogs, right down the road from my house, I could walk there. It used to be a little rockin’ dive bar that had decent beer on tap.
They closed down for a bit and I haven't really been back. Nowadays I mostly like to frequent different breweries around town.
What do you drive?
Subaru WRX, it’s a 2011 I bought in 2012. It had like 3000 miles on it and it was a good deal. It’s all-wheel-drive and turbo, so one of those all-around fast, fun, economical cars. It's also a hatchback, I can fit eight half kegs in it, one in passenger seat, seven in the back.
Death Row Beer?
Whatever beer has the longest line to get.
Do you have a brewing hero?
Sam from Dogfish Head. His backstory is just amazing. He’s just a really cool dude.
Is there a least favorite style?
I love everything. We made a mild. Not a popular beer. It’s just not one of those beers that is a heavy seller. People see 3% alcohol and pass.
How hard is it to name your beer?
Sometimes names just come to me. Other times I use a word generator. Two words and I’ll keep hitting it until a word comes up that I like. That’s how both Apocalyptic Pageant and Flying Pieces were named.
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Photo courtesy of Tyler Coughenour. For a ton of other great photos, check him out on Instagram @brewcollarguys.
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cooking with beer Words Mindy Heisler-Johnson Photos MikeWeiss
ramen STILLWATER EXTRA DRY SAKE STYLE SAISON
If ever you want to fall into an internet rabbit hole google the origin of ramen.
CraftPittsburgh | issue #36
Seriously. Where as most often I think up the food I want to cook and then work beer(s) into the recipe this time a beer wandered across my path that inspired an idea for a dish. Of course I’ve eaten ramen plenty of times, grocery store weirdness and real stuff from a restaurant with real food in it, but I had never made it. Step 1 in any recipe creation is research where it came from. So, the backstory of ramen is conflicted. And it is entirely possible that some version that I have eaten, though not that grocery store weirdness, was authentic-ish. But one thing that everyone does seem to agree on is that it involves noodles, broth and a lot of delicious garnishes. I can totally work with that. And we aren’t going to even talk about the 10 for $1 grocery store madness, I was 20 once, too, but I chose to forget.
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This was surprisingly fast to come together and the Stillwater Sake Style Saison was the perfect replacement for mirin, which is what I would have ordinarily used making something like this. The dryness made sure it wasn’t overly sweet, the subtle notes of sake there but not all in your face and the little bit of citrus notes brighten things up a bit, which I love. I made the stock the weekend before and had it cold in my fridge ready to go. This makes a generous 4 servings but can be easily adjusted to make more or less. Play with your toppings, too. Roasted Pork Belly would be amazing, duck breast or confit, even shrimp; this dish is flexible! I also liked to add different veggies, sliced snap peas, bell pepper, more mushrooms, daikon - it’s really all about whatever you & your people like.
The Stock/Broth
In the interest of time this can be made with boxed stock, though I prefer to make the stock for a richer broth. Most stocks use just bone, I prefer to make it for this with the whole thighs for what the skin and cartilage bring to the party. When the chicken is cooked I remove it, let it cool, shred it up
and add it back to the strained stock, the little bits of melt-in-your-mouth chicken are delicious in there! It can also be saved to use for another dish on another night if you prefer your broth unadorned with more chicken. • 8 Bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs • 1 Big spanish onion, rough chop • 2-3 carrots, rough chop • 2-3 celery stalks, rough chop • 1 clove garlic, crushed & chopped • 2 bay leaves • 2 Allspice berries (found in the spice section of your grocery store) • 1 Tbsp herbs de provence or dried thyme • Kosher salt & fresh ground black pepper • 1 Tbsp chicken base* Heat a stock pot over medium high heat, add a few Tbsp of oil to get hot. Season the chicken thighs with salt & pepper and lightly sear in batches to start to render the fat. As they are done let set them aside for later. Add the onion, carrot, and celery and saute until the onion starts to get soft. Add the garlic and herbs, season with salt & pepper and saute until the garlic starts to smell sweet. Add the thighs back in and cover with 1.5 gallons of water. Bring to a simmer and let it slowly reduce by half, 2-3 hours, to 3 quarts of liquid. When it’s done fish out the thighs and set the aside to cool - they can be picked and shredded and put back into the strained stock or save them for tacos or something. Strain the stock and reserve the liquid, toss the shrapnel. The stock can be cooled at this point or move along to the next steps. * Note on the soup base - they have it at the grocery store. In a little jar, most definitely in The Strip at Wholeys. This is a super ‘secret’ of a lot of chefs. The paste kinds, Minor’s in a name brand off the top of my head, can be pricey, but they are most definitely worth every penny when it comes to adding flavor to things. Boullion and the powdered ones? Nope. I’ll sort it out with salt and spices, thank you very much.
On the trail or in the woo ds, we’re here fo r your post ri de ... refreshments .
The Soup
Using the stock you just made or 4 qts of already prepared this is going to be the broth for your ramen. All of the vegetable cuts are covered in the recipe instructions for pretty! • 2 Tbsp butter • 1 Tbsp sesame oil • 1 medium sweet onion • 2 medium carrots • 3 ribs celery • 2 cloves garlic, smashed & minced • 1lbs knob fresh ginger, grated • 8oz Shittake mushrooms, stemmed • 16oz Stillwater Extra Dry Sake Style Saison • 4oz good soy sauce • 1 tsp fish sauce (optional) • 4 qts chicken stock (your own, or boxed) • Kosher Salt & Black Pepper
Made fresh everyday, be sure to try the one with peanut butter. Really!
Veggie Prep
Do it all before you get started. It’s easier that way. • Sweet Onion - remove top and bottom, cut in half top to bottom and remove skin. Lay the flat side down on the board and cut left to right into a thin, fine strips, less than ¼”. • Carrots - peel and cut the carrots in half lengthwise. Lay flat side down on the board and cut on a bias (45° angle) into thin strips, less than ¼”. • Celery - Trim the celery stalks, lay flat side down and slice into thin arches, less than ¼”. • Shittake Mushrooms - remove the stems and julienne. Heat your soup pot up over medium high heat. Add the butter and sesame oil and heat until the butter is melted. Add the onion and sweat over medium heat until they are soft—3-4 minutes. Add the carrot and celery and sweat until they are tender and the onion starts to smell sweet—2-3 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and cook until the garlic loses the harsh aroma, 2-3 minutes. Add the mushroom and saute until tender, 3-4 minutes. Deglaze with the beer and reduce by half. Add the soy & fish sauce and stock and bring to a simmer. Reduce gently for 45-60 minutes, letting the flavors marry, to around two quarts. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed with salt & pepper and chicken base if needed.
The Garnishes
All of this can be happening while all that up there is happening. • Ramen Noodles - cook enough for four portions according to package directions. Portion out into four bowls. • Soft Boiled Egg - place four cold eggs from the fridge into a pot of simmering water for seven minutes. Remove to an ice bath to stop the cooking process until cool enough to handle. Peel and reserve. Cut in half prior to serving. • Sliced Scallion - trim and clean scallions, thinly bias slice to go right on top raw. One per bowl. • Sauteed Skin-On Chicken Breast - portion can be a whole or half breast per person depending on your crowd. Season skin on chicken breasts with salt and pepper and saute over medium high heat until the skin is crisp and the chicken is cooked through—if they are particularly thick they can be finished in the oven. Let them rest covered with foil until you are ready to serve. They get sliced and laid on top of the noodles. • Wilted Greens - my preference is baby spinach. I rough chop a big pinch per bowl. It wilts when it is covered with the hot broth. • Minced Jalapeno - for the brave - minced fresh jalapeno. • Bean Sprouts - straight from the fridge to your ramen! Arrange the noodles in a big soup bowl. Place the sliced chicken breast on top center and the remaining garnishes around it. Top with a generous pour of broth. Serve with a spoon.
north park boathouse • historic southside
a great sele ction of seasonal craf t beer on tap. Espe cially the local br ews.
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home brewing
WHERE THE
HELLES MAIBOCK?! BREWING A HELLES BOCK
(AKA MAIBOCK) Words Jack Smith Art Joe Mruk
This was a rough winter. Sleet or snow every weekend. So many school closings and delays. I counted a full fortnight just after Christmas where the temperature never went above 25° F. All this is to say I’m ready for the next season; this one can pound salt. Mind you, I’m not ready to jump into sweltering days and swampy nights, wiffy pits and long lines for the Thunderbolt. I like a bit of transition - to the seasons and to the beer I’m drinking. I’m kind of over Belgian Quads, big Doppelbocks, and Imperial Stouts at this point but I’m not yet ready for Cream Ale, Session IPA, and Witbier. Know what I mean, Vern?
CraftPittsburgh | issue #36
So … what’s next? The Germans have just what you’re looking for: Helles Bock (sometimes called Maibock because its time to shine is the month of May - during the transition from winter to summer). Incidentally, you might want to pay attention to those German brewers. I don’t know if many have noticed yet but they seem to be pretty good at it.
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Helles Bock is a pale, bright, strong(ish) lager. Bock beers are generally strong, malty, rich, and warming. Helles bock is stronger than standard German lagers like Pilsner, Dunkel, and Schwarzbier but not typically as strong as Dunkels Bock or Doppelbock. It’s a nice transition back to standard-strength beers. Helles bock is richer than standard lagers, but unlike Dunkels Bock and Doppelbock that are packed with rich, fruity, dessert-like flavors Helles Bock gets its richness from base malts and a higher starting gravity than standard-strength lagers. Helles Bock is also notably more hop-forward than the other bock styles, though not as hoppy as German Pilsner. Think of it as a stepping-off point to return to normalcy after Old Man Winter had been keeping your glass filled with rich, strong, keepin’-you-warm beers. I think of it as springtime in a glass. This is a lager beer so it takes a little longer to mature than your quick turnaround hoppy ales, but it’s not a big ager like the other bock beers or your 1.120 starting gravity Scottish Wee Heavy. Two, two and a half months is what this beer needs. If you brew it now it will be ready to drink in… well, would you look at that: May. Enjoy your Maibock. Prost!
Bat Outta Helles II:
Bock Into Helles
HELLES BOCK Batch Size: 5.5 gal. Boil Time: 60 minutes OG: 1.068 FG: 1.018 ABV: 6.5% IBU: 29 SRM: 7 Difficulty: Moderate - oxygenation & fermentation temperature control *Assuming 65% brewhouse efficiency
Grainbill
• 9.5 lbs German Pilsner Maltt • 4 lbs Vienna Malt • 1 lb Munich Malt • 12 oz Melanoidin Malt
Extract Brewers: Replace the Pilsner malt with 5.5 lbs of Pilsner DME. Replace the Vienna malt with 2.5 lbs of Vienna DME. Replace the Munich malt with 0.5 lb of Munich DME. Steep the Melanoidin malt in a muslin sack in 0.5 gallon of 150F water for 30 minutes, then add water and DME and boil as you typically do
Hops
• 56 grams Hallertau Mittelfruh (4% AA) @ 60 min • 14 grams Tettnang Tettnanger (4% AA) @ 10 min
Mash & Boil
Performing a decoction would not be out of line for this beer. If you enjoy such tasks, I suggest rests at 131°, 144°, 156°, and 168° Fahrenheit. We’ve covered detection extensively in this space before so we won’t go into details here. A single infusion mash is a completely acceptable option as well. Dough in at 155° F and hold that temperature for an hour. If your routine includes mashout, go for it. Perform your normal lauter and sparge process to collect your standard pre-boil volume for getting 5.25 gallons of wort into your fermenter. Boil for 90 minutes, adding hops at 60 and 10 minutes.
Yeast/Fermentation
As is the case with all German lager styles you can get away with any of the many German lager yeast strains available to homebrewers. WLP833 - German Bock Lager Yeast - has become my go-to for all lager styles. It makes delicious Pilsner, Oktoberfest, Vienna Lager, and especially Bock beer. It’s slightly less attenuative and produces a beer that features maltiness slightly more than other strains. I would definitely use 833 for this beer. Make a big yeast starter. Use a yeast calculator to size your starter to produce half a trillion cells. Be sure to oxygenate your wort very well prior to pitching. Lagers require more oxygen up front than ales. Bigger beers require more O2. This is a big lager, so oxygen is especially important. I would give this beer two-and-a-half minutes of pure O2 just before adding the yeast. Pitch your chilled starter into your chilled wort when both are 46° F. Allow it to rise to 48° F and hold it there until 48 hours after you see krausen form (or bubbling start in the airlock). At that point, begin increasing the temperature by 1° F per day until you get to 64° F. Hold it there for another week to ensure fermentation has finished. Perform a forced diacetyl test. If it passes, crash the beer and lager it for a month or two, then package and serve! Maibock is a versatile beer when it comes to food pairing. Its flavors profile is similar to German Pilsner so in general it works anywhere Pilsner works, which is pretty much anywhere! It’s a springtime beer so think springtime foods. The rosé you have with your Easter ham brunch is pretty good, but a Maibock would be great! There’s enough hop bitterness and flavor to cut into the sweetness of the ham’s honey glaze and the rich nuttiness of that Gruyere cheese while the moderately-rich malt plays well off the ham’s salty, smoky nature. Quiche is a springtime favorite of mine, and it is marvelous with Helles bock. Imagine a big slice of asparagus, leek, and Emmental cheese and a half liter of Maibock. That’s heaven on a barcalounger if you ask me. You want dessert? Again, think spring. I’m not sure Maibock would go so well with a rich chocolate tort or a British sticky toffee pudding, but I can’t think of a better pairing for a spiced carrot cake with neufchatel icing. A homebrewer since 2002, Jack Smith is a National BJCP Judge, a former president of the Three Rivers Alliance of Serious Homebrewers, and an active member of the Three Rivers Underground Brewers
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Suggested Pairings
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