newsletter J
U
Y
/
KNIT ONE... PURL ONE MURIEL BOLGER
Aran sweaters heralded the start of the Irish Knitwear trade and a huge cottage industry, mainly in the West of Ireland, grew up around the cables and diamonds, each stitch telling its own tale. Now knitting has passed on to further and much loftier plains and our garments, both hand and machine made, are to be found in couture houses and department stores everywhere. In the early eighties Irish knitwear enjoyed a boom and Michelina Stacpoole's name was on designers lips everywhere, then the industry was beset by problems. The Irish Knitwear Export Guild has provided a much needed boost to the industry, which was almost obliterated by the many setbacks in the past decade, not least the flooding of world markets with cheap imports and the punitive 21% vat. Fortunately design flames were not extinguished and
have rekindled to proclaim a new golden age which is being described as an overnight success story, but the Lainey Keoghs of this business know that this "overnight success" has taken the best part of a decade to achieve. The Crafts Council of Ireland has been involved in successful training for the craft industry since 1981 and has tried to develop courses to cater for areas where there are known skill shortages. Now happily, the industry is a growing and world respected business. Today's' design graduates and students have been responsible for catapulting it into a class of its own. With their emphasis firmly on design and by using innovation to its full potential they are producing goods that are very much in demand. Undoubtedly computer aided design has made a huge difference and although these knitting machines were introduced initially for speed,
Photograph by Nicola Murray
they are beginning to be exploited to the full in their design capacity. The more unstructured and layered look of today's' creations has given endless scope for experimentation. Mixing yarns to combine textures, qualities, weights and finishes has given individuality to many of the new designs.
KNIT ONE ... PURL ONE Continued
A walk through the Designer's Gallery will illustrate just how varied is the range of techniques and textures being used. There "oeuvres" by Gertrude Simpson, Lynn Mor, Deirdre Fitzgerald, Mary Grant, Kate Cuddy and Lucy Downes all vie for attention. Other names like Nicola Murray are being recognised for the niche they have cornered in the sophisticated ethnic bracket. Very few of the modern knitters or designers hand dye and spin their own yarns as these skills are too labour intensive and very costly to execute, but they make full use of the traditional and ultra modern raw materials mixing the natural cottons, linens, silks and chenilles which spell haute couture of the moment. At the recent IKEG Awards in May, Minister for Tourism and Trade, Mr. Charlie McCreevy TD, praised the students who participated, acknowledging them as the trailblazers of Ireland's fashion and clothing industry - an industry which has now reached the position of employing more than 4,500 people and has annual export sales of 60 million pounds. That's an awful lot of purls and plains. Traditionally Ireland relied a little too heavily on the captive ethnic market in the USA for its exports, but thankfully that too has been addressed and Irish knitwear is sharing hanger space now in boutiques from Japan to Moscow and from Rome to Stockholm.
This year the Irish Knitwear Export Guild Awards were first introduced and they acted as a much needed fillip to students, not only as a personal challenge but as a means of stimulating new ideas and products for the international markets. Since the Guild was set up in 1985 to develop the export focus on the industry it has made great inroads and its membership has grown from 7 to 28 who work closely with An Bord Trachtala in building and strengthening marketing. These member companies are active in Bord Trachtala's "The Look is Irish" world-wide fashion knitwear marketing campaign which is currently running. Lucy Downes was the overall winner, from 60 entrants. A final year student of the National College of Art & Design Dublin, her prize included a two week expenses paid computer aided knitwear course in Shima Seiki in Milton Keynes, one of the world's leaders in knitwear manufacturing technology, followed by work placement with an IKEG company. Runners up were Catherine Bond, who is currently at the Crescent Workshops in Kilkenny and Nollaig Cahill from Athenny who is a student at the Limerick College of Art and Design. Both received travel bursaries to attend the Expofil Yarn Fair in Paris as part of the Bord Trachtala design study visit. Nicola McLaren, a final year student at the University of Ulster was awarded a special
prize for Design Creativity. Five other work placements awards were given with IKEG members and it is anticipated that these will lead to long term career opportunities. The World Finals of the Smirnoff Fashion Awards are being held in Ireland this year - and these should widen the area even more for up and coming Irish knitwear designers who are in a great position to capitalise on this great upsurge of notoriety that the fashion knitwear industry is currently enjoying globally. A CAD/CAM training course for the Irish Knitwear Industry will be held in the autumn. Run by the Crafts Council and called CAD/CAM Training for the Irish Knitwear Industry, its objectives are to train those with proven creative talent, but who are not already CAD/CAM literate. The course itself will be a forty week intensive one and will include visits to the UK for a short block of programme training. Up to twelve will be accepted and these may be recent graduates or designers with industrial experience wishing to upgrade their skills. The venue will be the RTC in Limerick College of Art and Design and the course is supported by the ESF fund. Application forms are available from Leslie Reed, Training and Education Officer, the Crafts Council of Ireland, Crescent Workshops, Castle Yard, Kilkenny, Tel. 056-61804/62734.
Crafts Council Exhibitions "Gardens" (6th July 27th August, 1994) This exhibition is the outdoor reflection of last year's "Interiors". The set designer Tracey Stewart has created a fantasy garden for the dreams of makers with the outdoor furniture of Andrew Klimacki, Paul Berg, Shane Bunting, Eric Pearse and Clive Nunn.
Harry and David Page have created wrought iron railings, gates and arches. Hugh Lorigan and Cormac Boydell are exhibiting architectural ceramic installations, Barbara Kelly is exhibiting a basketed pergola and Sarah Daly mosaic paths. Works will be for sale or available for commission
during the two months while the show continues. The Crafts Council Gallery Shop hopes to show smaller work on a garden theme and welcomes submissions.
"Corporate Gifts" (14th Sept- 1st Oct) An exhibition aimed at corporate purchases with Christmas in mind. The objects will be displayed according to their price bracket. A wide range will be covered with particular emphasis on products that can be "personalised" with company logos. A second aspect of the exhibition is heirloom work, including special ranges of glass and linen book binding. The final element is the trophy, - showing successful trophies already presented which will be leant for exhibition.
Renaissance of Irish Craft Work by 31 Irish based designer-makers will be shown in Philadelphia USA in September/October. This is the result of an invitation from the Philadelphia Arts Alliance to the Crafts Council of ireland. The work covers five areas including:- textiles, ceramics, wood, jewellery and hollow ware by craftworkers from both the Republic and Northern Ireland.
Fountain - Ian Wright
Jobs created as a result Showcase Dublin 1994
IT
3 year term. Anyone can stand for election, but must be nominated and seconded by a Member of the Council. (A list of Members is available from Margaret Jones in the Dublin office). Nomination forms will be sent out in late August to Members, with the formal notice of the A.G.M.. If anyone would like more information, please contact Christine Ross or Sean O'Farrell.
Crafts Council Announcements Showcase 1994 Results Ruari Quinn, T.D., Minister of Enterprise and Employment announced the results of Showcase 1994 at a recent press conference in Dublin Castle. Nearly 700 new full, parttime and outworker jobs have been created within the Irish craft industry this year as a direct result of Showcase Dublin, the biggest trade fair in Ireland. A survey of exhibitors conducted by the Crafts Council revealed that total sales figures for orders received at the fair were a record ÂŁ18.6 million, representing an annual turnover in excess of ÂŁ75 million. Those orders have resulted in a total of 697 new jobs-121 full-time, 108 part-time and 468 outworkers. Cyril Forbes, Crafts Council Chairman said that the jobs
have been achieved through the co-operation of the Crafts Council with An Bord Trachtala and Eurofairs, the Showcase organisers. He noted that jobs in the craft sector tend to stay - and to lead to further employment later on. 8,000 buyers attended the fair, more than 1,500 of them from overseas. The significant improvement in numbers of buyers from France, Germany and Italy resulted in an increased proportion of export sales to Europe compared to North America.
Crafts Council AGM The Crafts Council's A.G.M. is on 29th September, and there will be elections for 5 vacancies on the Management Committee which comprises 5 representatives nominated by the Minister for Enterprise and Employment, and 10 representatives elected by the membership of the Council, to serve for a
Jewellery and Saltglaze Workshops Please see the added insert sheet with the list of offerings for Autumn, 1994. They are aimed at a wide range of people - you are not expected to want to do them all! Setting: Pave/Bead and bright cutting Setting: Channel, gypsy etc. Enamelling: Gemmology: Diamonds, Rubies, Sapphires, Emeralds and the treatments and synthetics around today. Contact Nuala McGrath, Crescent Workshops, Kilkenny.
Craft and Design Business Development Course The Crafts Council of Ireland recently completed a review of the Business/Design Skills Course in Kilkenny. Among the recommendations was a change of title to "The Craft and Design Business Development Course" to
reflect the emphasis and content of the course. Anyone seeking further information should contact: Emer Ferran, Course Supervisor, Crescent Workshop.
Reminder A festival of basket making will take place next October to follow the 'Basketmakers' exhibition. Master classes will be held on Monday 3rd - Friday 7th October. A day conference on Basketry and Willow Growing will be held on Saturday 8th October. Contact: Joe Hogan, Loch Na Fooey, Finny, Clonbur, Co. Galway. Tel. Evening 092-48241
Reminder EBS Crafts Competition entries must be delivered to the RDS Industries Hall (21st - 23rd July) between 9.30 & 12.45 and 2.00 & 4.30 only. Contact:- Ms. Sinead O'Duinnin (01) 6680866
'The teaching of design in European Crafts" International Symposium (9th- 11th September) 1994 in Munich. Leading applied artists and design trainers from E.U. countries and from Eastern Europe have been invited to give lectures at the symposium at the Congress Centre of the "Arabella" Hotel, Bogenhauser, Munchen. Contact: Dr. Barbara Bonard,
Max-Joseph StraBe 4, 80333
Summer School
Munchen, Germany.
Dun Laoghaire College of Art & Design is running a Summer School (18th-29th July). It will comprises of one week courses in Ceramics, Photography, Set Design, Colours for Textile Artists and many others. There is also a masterclass in Illustration. Contact: Noreen Daly, Tel. 01-2801138
Bothwell International (10th - 12th March) 1995 SPIN-IN Bothwell Tasmania International guests will be Mary Shiels - Irish Weaver, Sheila Regan - Irish Lacemaker, Anneli Rickard Flax Specialist. Spinners, weavers and dyers worldwide are invited and there are two international competitions for spinners. For full details and entry forms please contact:Mary Shiels, Secretary, Kalimna, Coynes Cross, Ashford, Co. Wicklow, Tel. 01-2819287. JAPAN DESIGN FOUNDATION, 7th
International Design Competition Osaka. This international design competition open to all disciplines seeks the ideal state of design and takes a fresh look at design today. There are always over 1,000 entrants in this biannual exhibition. The total value of prizes offered is U.S. $80,000. Deadline is 26th December, 1994. Prize winning works will be selected in 1995 through a preliminary screening in March with a final review in July to be displayed during the 7th International Design Exhibition Osaka '94 to be held in October. Further details of this exhibition are available from the Crafts Council.
Taipeis Gael (4th - 8th July). National Dyeing, Spinning and Tapestry Weaving Summer School, Donegal Programme includes: Introductory slide show and talk. Natural dyeing using dyestuff such as heather on an open fire. Spinning on Donegal wheels. Designing for tapestry. Tapestry weaving. Fee is ÂŁ60 for 5 day workshop 10am - 4pm Contact: Monica Bates Tel: 073 30248
A Landscape of Dreams Textile learning holidays with Allie Kay, one of Ireland's best known designer/weavers. Includes intensive tuition each morning and a workshop in which to continue. All materials for course plus a follow up kit to take home, comfortable accommodation & a high standard of cuisine. For information contact: Allie Kay, Phoenix House Studio, Whitegate, Co. Clare. Tel: 061 927109
Contact:- Lorraine Bowen at the Crescent Workshops (056)61804/62734
For Sale 3 phase Pottery Kiln 6.3 cu. ft. 3 years old Excellent condition. ÂŁ950.00 Also Slab Roller. Contact:-Patricia Jacques, Letterfrack, Co. Galway. Tel. 095-43539 (Late evenings)
Studio Required
Wanted
Shared ceramic studio space sought - summer onwards. Contact- Sandra McCowen, 'Sorrento', Gordon Ave., Foxrock, Dublin 18.
One kick wheel and a 4 feet cubic top loader kiln. Contact: 01-8316711
Workshop Required
For Sale Four gallons of ceramic casting slip, ÂŁ40. Contact: (01) 4964187, evenings. (Ranelagh)
Illustrator/Designer seeking studio space (approx. 200/250 sq. feet) in Dublin area. Contact:- Nicola Emoe at the Crescent Workshops (056)61804/62734
Jewellers and Metalworkers Guild are holding a masterclass from the 6th -12th August at the Crafts Council of Ireland's jewellery workshop at the Crescent Workshop, Kilkenny. This workshop has been grant aided by the Crafts Council of Ireland. The guild has selected Godwin Baum from Germany to lead the masterclass. He is renowned for the high standard of technical excellence and has a well developed personal style. Contact Seamus Gill, Jewellers and Metalworkers Guild, Studio 23, The Tower, IDA Enterprise Centre, Pearse Street. Tel: 01 677 5701.
The Management Committee 1994 Chair Mr. Cyril Forbes Wee Chair Ms. Hilary Pratt Mr. Michael Feeney Ms. Suzanne May Mr. Michael McCrory Mr. Rudolf Heltzel Dr. David Shaw-Smith Ms. Breda Haugh Ms. Angela Forte Mr. David Hargaden Mr. Brendan Flood Ms. Maureen Cairnduff Ms. Kaethe Burt-O'Dea Ms. Mary Jackson Ms. Bernadette Madden
Workshop Required Textile designer requires workshop/studio (approx. 350/400 sq. feet) in Dublin area.
Crafts Council Staff
The Crafts Council of Ireland
Dublin
Dublin
Chief Executive
Christine Ross Sean O'Farrell Craft Development Officer Margaret Jones Administrative Officer Catherine Jordan Administrative Assistant Mairead McAnallen Gallery Administrator Exhibitions Assistant
Powerscourt Townhouse Centre South William Street, Dublin 2
Tel.
01679 7368
Fax.
016799197
Greg McAteer
Shop Assistant
Vacant
The Crescent Workshop
Kilkenny
Training and Education Officer Leslie Reed Supervisor/Information Officer Emer Ferran Administrative Assistant Nuala McGrath
The Crescent Workshop,
Thomastown Pottery Skills Course
Fax.
Trainer
Castle Yard Kilkenny Tel. 056 61804 or 62734 056 63754
Gus Mabelson
Jewellery Design and Production Skills Course Trainer
Jane Huston
All information is published in good faith but without research, so please check carefully before committing yourself to work or financial outlay Please forward all information to Emer Ferran The copy date for the next issue is 5th August. The print date is 19th August.