3 August 2012 by Crave Malay Mail

Friday AUGUST 3, 2012 S AT I S F Y I N G

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Tempting Tempe Perfect for a quick snack or try it encased in a golden puff pastry

SAMBAL TEMPE AND CASHEW N oil for frying 150g cashew nuts 180g (1 packet) tempe, finely sliced spice paste 15 dried chillies, soaked and cut into 3cm lengths 60g (5) fresh red chillies 10g bird-eye chillies (optional) 20 shallots, peeled 2 cloves garlic 30g (2 stalks) lemongrass, sliced 1 teaspoon toasted dried shrimp paste (belachan) 50g tamarind paste, mixed with 100 ml water and sieved to get juice 30g palm sugar (gula Melaka) 45g coarse sugar or to taste 10 kaffir lime leaves, sliced salt to taste Heat oil in a wok and deep fry cashew nuts until light brown; remove and set aside. Drain on paper towels. Repeat with tempe. Leave 125ml oil in the wok to sauté spice paste. In an electric blender, ﬁnely grind spice paste ingredients, adding a little water if needed to move the blades. Heat the remaining oil and sauté spice paste until fragrant, stirring continuously to prevent burning. Once paste is fragrant and oil rises to the surface, remove half and set aside for the Tempe Puffs. Add tamarind juice, gula Melaka and sugar to wok. Simmer for 1 minute or paste thickens. Add kafﬁr lime leaves, fried cashew nuts and tempe; toss to mix making sure paste is evenly distributed. Season to taste with salt. Remove from heat. Cool before storing in airtight jars. — Recipe by Debbie Teoh, Photography by Kenneth Lim, Gray Studio. Taster Comments:

The recipe was easy to follow. Despite putting so many not as hot as expected since the sugar and gula Melaka The gula Melaka gave the crispies a rich taste that went

SHARON TAN, Journalist

In the Kitchen with Eu H CUMIN appears in most curry powders and spice mixtures. It is a distinctive ingredient in Indian, Middle Eastern, Mexican, Portuguese and Spanish cuisines and used to ﬂavour lamb and chicken, vegetables such as pickled cabbage, soups, even a German liqueur. You can taste it in the Mexican chile con carne, sausages, smoked meat and cheeses. It was known to the Egyptians 5,000 years ago, as it was used in the process to mummify the pharaohs.

SAMBAL TEMPE PUFFS filling 1 cup Sambal Tempe and Cashew nut crispies 5-6 heaped tablespoons sautéed spice paste [from the Tempe crispies] sugar and salt to taste 1 packet [375 g] frozen puff pastry, left at room temperature 1 Grade A egg, beaten lightly extra flour for dusting work top

To prepare filling: In a mixing bowl, combine the crispies with the spice paste. Adjust the sugar and salt to taste. Mix to break the tempe into smaller pieces. Should mixture be too thick, add 1 tablespoon water if necessary. To prepare puffs: Lightly dust the worktop with a little flour. Roll out the puff pastry to 0.5cm thickness. Cut pastry into 12cmx6cm rectangles. Spoon a little filling over the rectangle and lightly brush some beaten egg on the sides the pastry. Fold the pastry to cover the TIP: M filling. Use the back of the fork to lightly press to seal the edges. Repeat ak e xtra of e with the rest of the pastry. Preheat oven to 180C. Lightly grease a tray, the sauteed place puffs and brush with egg wash. Bake for 35-40 minutes, or until s p i the puffs are golden brown and crispy. Serve hot. — Recipe by Debbie and use ce paste it to m Teoh, Photography by Kenneth Lim, Gray Studio. sa Taster Comments:

It was a nice spin to use puff pastry to wrap the tempe crispies.“

SHARON TAN, Journalist

a mbal p rawns o ke r ikan bilis. K e e p s f o month r1 refrige rated.

Cumin is the dried seed of the herb Cuminum cyminum, a member of the parsley family. It has medicinal value. Store some roasted and crushed cumin to be used whenever you have heartburn or an acidic stomach. It relieves ﬂatulence and colic, is a diuretic and stimulates the appetite. Cumin is rich in iron, vital to pregnant and lactating women and growing children. The spice is an anti-free radical and boosts the immune system. According to studies, it stimulates the secretion of pancreatic enzymes so important for digestion and absorption of nutrients. Cumin was a much valued spice in ancient Rome and came to symbolize both frugality and greed. The Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelis came to be referred to privately as Cuminus because of his avarice. However, cumin was also a symbol of love and ﬁdelity and was used in wedding ceremonies in Europe to ensure a happy life for the bridal couple. A paste of ground cumin, pepper and honey is thought to be aphrodisiac by the Arabs. The Malay name for cumin is jintan putih; the Indians call it jeera. Originally cultivated in Kerman (it sounds like “cumin”) in Iran, the country is still a major producer, along with Egypt, Syria, Morocco, Turkey, India, Pakistan and Mexico.

FRIDAY 3, AUGUST 2012

THE MALAY MAIL

NUT CRISPIES (Makes 2 large jars)

y bird-eye chillies, it was a balanced off the heat. well as a bar snack.“

Sauteed spice paste

Hooi Khaw

TWO CAN TANGO

ROASTED CHICKEN WITH CUMIN 2 teaspoons cumin seeds 2 teaspoons black peppercorns 1 1/2 teaspoons sea salt 4 cloves garlic, finely minced 2 teaspoons honey 4 (800g) chicken thighs 2 tablespoons oil Toast the cumin seeds and black peppercorns in a frying pan over a low ﬁre until fragrant, taking care not to burn them. Leave to cool. Grind in a blender until ﬁne; combine with salt, garlic and honey together. Slip your hand into a plastic bag and massage the chicken with the mix. Cover and refrigerate for two hours. Preheat the oven to 180C. Place the marinated chicken on a tray and drizzle with oil. Roast for 30 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove from the oven. You can serve it with mashed potato and a salad.

CREATIVE collaborations often spring out unlikely results and in the case of Austrian-German chef Johann Lafer ‘s pairing with YTL Corporate Executive Chef Wai Look Chow (or Chef Wai), it is a book titled Two Chefs, One Cuisine. The cookbook will draw on Austrian, German and Malaysian influences for the duo to devise their own special cuisine. Their history harks back to about ten years ago. Lafer who runs Michelinstarred restaurant Le Val D’Or was in YTL’s Pangkor Laut resort to film a television program. He fell in love with the place but his only minor complaint was the quality of food. Lafer who also heads a cooking school, Table d’Or, offered to train the YTL chefs. One of the first chefs he trained was Chef Wai. “When I first met him, I did not know he will become famous. I now rate him as the best chef in Malaysia,” says Lafer. The Austrian-German chef who is dedicated to training, have seen more than 35 of YTL’s chefs at his school.

EDITORIAL NOTE

DYNAMIC DUO: (Clockwise) Chefs Wai Look Chow and Johann Lafer. Mediterranean-style corn-fed chicken. Pan-seared red snapper. Tartare of Asian meat crab with tomatoes, chillies and guacamole.

That mentor-student relationship grew into a lasting friendship for many years, as Lafer would make a total of 25 visits to Malaysia, and Chef Wai will also visit Lafer in Germany. Throughout the years, each chef has learnt from each other’s cuisines to be influenced in their cooking styles. Lafer admits a love for many Asian ingredients that is now readily available in Germany. “I like to poach fish using white wine, coconut milk, lemongrass and ginger,” he says. German diners are also getting more adventurous hence Lafer integrates influences from other countries. For Chef Wai, he has learnt to use seasonal produce but applies his own oriental methods. One ingredient that impressed him is Germany’s black beer that is used to braise pork knuckle. “I adapted the black beer to make steamed buns instead, and it gives it a malt flavour,” he says. Celebrating their collaboration, a fivecourse gala dinner was recently thrown in Shook! “The menu is a mixture of

both of us, it is our own cuisine,” says Lafer. Kicking off the meal was refreshing Asian crabmeat tartare with tomatoes and chillies. True to our Asian roots, there was a comforting layer of rice on the bottom. Next it was a panseared snapper paired with cream of parsley with a hint of sweetness from lychees served on the side. Lafer explains that some dishes were picked from all parts of the world hence you have a Mediterranean-style corn fed chicken with black olives, being paired with our Cameron Highland leeks and familiar crispy rice crackers. The juicy duo of suckling lamb is paired with Asian influences in the form of an Alphonso mango chutney, pak choy and sweet potato. The dinner ends with a delicate pandan pannacotta topped with a tangy passionfruit layer that is served with a creamy aromatic home made coconut ice cream. The cookbook is set to hit Germany, in the first quarter of 2013, with plans for an English edition soon thereafter.

by Lee Khang Yi

Crave Editor

This issue touches on the power packed tempe. Debbie Teoh’s Sambal tempe with cashew nut crispies makes a great snack on its own, with rice or in golden brown pastry puﬀs. We also feature two chefs passionate about their craft: YTL’s Corporate Executive Chef Wai Look Chow and his mentor turned friend, German chef Johann Lafer. The duo are set to release their cookbook next year and celebrated with a gala dinner to showcase their unique cuisine. Dine at Croisette Cafe, where French chef/owner Pierre Chaillou whips up delectable dishes. We also visit Typica where passionate brews are made. And for those seeking for a healthy alternative, try Botanical that proves going meat-free does not mean you compromise on taste. Bon Appetit!

ADVERTISING SALES Rajan Gopal Senior Manager, Direct & Classiﬁeds

Direct line: 03 74951282 rajan@mmail.com.my

FRIDAY 3, AUGUST 2012

THE MALAY MAIL

COSY DINING NOOK IN BANGSAR BY Eu Hooi Khaw

THE Caesar Salad (RM14.90) would be the first thing I would order at the Croisette Café. There’s something about a poached egg sitting on a bed of crisp romaine lettuce, with anchovies laid across the salad, and surrounded by crispy croutons that makes it so memorable. Of course there is the generous sprinkling of grated Parmesan to bring everything together. Let the runny egg yolk cover the lettuce as you eat with the salty anchovies and crunch on the garlicky croutons. It’s just so good. This café within the condominium is cosy nook. Just beside the swimming pool amidst lush greenery, lunch is a good time to be there, though dinner is served too. The specials of the day are on the board in the café;

there is a regular menu and a 3-course weekday set lunch. Chef/owner Pierre Chaillou came round to help us order. Besides the must-have Caesar Salad, we decided on the set lunch for RM30 of Tabouleh, Chicken lemon confit tajine with couscous and Crème brulee, and the Pan-fried duck breast with garlic cream (RM28) from the a la carte menu. While some of Pierre’s food is French in essence, as in the Panfried duck breast, Duck confit and Beef bourguignon, he also does an awesome Moroccan chicken tajine, even a delicious Spanish seafood paella. The chef is French: he comes from Cannes and has been in Malaysia for 21 years. He last owned a French restaurant in Kuala Lumpur. The Tabouleh, Pierre’s version, is fluffy couscous tossed with lemon juice, black olives, cherry tomatoes, finely chopped

Botanical, 1F-28 & 1F-K2, First Floor, Bangsar Village 2, Bangsar Baru, Kuala Lumpur, 03-22876566, 11am to 10pm daily.

buttery, with a tinge of garlic. I have had this duck with roesti, fried like a potato pancake, and it was equally good. I always look forward to the desserts here. They are always beautifully presented and perfectly round off a scrumptious meal. We had a Crème brulee, dipping our spoon through the fine sugar crackling into the rich, smooth custard, and touching slivers of orange zest beneath. It tasted amazing. The Bavarois raspberry mango (RM11) was so light, with a raspberry layer on top, mango in the centre and chocolate at the bottom.

COSY SPOT (Clockwise): The small space is brightened with natural sunlight. Caesar salad. Bavarois raspberry mango. Pan-fried duck breast with garlic cream. Creme brulee.

Croisette Cafe, Level 3, Cascadium Condominium, Jalan Penaga, Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur, 014-665 7944/016-330 4477. Open: 11.45am to 2pm, 6.45pm to 10pm. Closed on Mondays. Parking is easy as you get a lot number for the space for your car.

COFFEE HAUNT

GREEN LOVE Head to Botanical for a delicious meat-free meal guaranteed to satisfy. The former Bistro42 is the latest vegetarian offering of the BIG Group. Nibble on the addictive Cauliflower fritters as you wait for the Eggplant dengaku. The chargrilled vegetable with its miso spread is served with steamed brown rice, and edamame seaweed salad. Comforting dashi soup with mushrooms complete the dish that had us returning for more. Even the Portobello mushroom ragout and Nasi campur is rather good. And don’t forget the divine Raw chocolate cake made with dried fruits, and the Earl Grey poached pear, guaranteed to make you lick your lips and ask for seconds.

parsley and mint, finished with slivers of red pepper and served on a bed of lettuce. It’s light, subtle and refreshing. The Chicken lemon confit tajine, is a stew with free range chicken and black olives, spiced with saffron, cumin and ginger, and just bursting with the intense scent of the zest from the cured, salted lemon. It takes two months to pickle the lemon with rock salt, water and oil for this Moroccan dish, and only the skin is used. The tajine tastes amazing, and is perfect with the light couscous dotted with raisins. I had recommended the Panfried duck breast with garlic cream to the friend dining with me. I had this before at another lunch, and had delighted in the moist, tender slices of duck topped with roasted garlic and drizzled with a subtle, creamy white wine sauce. This time it was served with a layered potato gratin, which was so light and

Hidden in Pudu, Typica offers handcrafted coffee made with passion. The laid-back café is decked out in furniture made from recycled wood, and yes, there is even an old school desk complete with a lid. Look for the communal long bench, a solid specimen made from a Chinese medicine hall’s wooden signboard. The bench is a prime spot, with a bird-eye’s view of the action behind your java. Space is compact here so expect to rub shoulders with other patrons also seeking caffeine heaven here.

PASSIONATE BREW (Clockwise): The cosy setup with warm wooden furniture. Owner Sum Leong makes the siphon coffee. Ice drip mango coffee. Yam cake.

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Confused with what to order? Just ask the friendly staff who will take you through their offerings from hot to cold. The café carries special coffee beans, from all over the world, such as Hawaii, Laos and even India. Owner Sum Leong also champions local Liberica beans, and works with coffee growers to create more awareness for this forgotten bean. Unique to Typica, is the civet coffee or kopi luwak from our own Malaysia. The Indonesian version is highly sought after by coffee connoisseurs commanding high prices up to USD600 per pound. The Malaysian version of this civet coffee has a nutty body with herbal-like after taste. Go for the siphon coffee for the pure clean taste of the coffee beans. The process has an air of theatrics as you watch the multi-step process from the bench. First, beans are hand grinded, and placed on the top chamber of the lab-looking siphon coffee maker. As the water boils in a lower pot, the gas vapour pushes the water to mix with the coffee grinds. You will notice how the siphonist constantly smells the coffee mixture, as she stirs it so she can tell when the brew is done from its aromas. Once that is completed,

it is time to turn off the fire and extract the brew for our pleasure. The siphon-brewed coffee is best drank minus any sugar or milk to not cloud its clarity. For those seeking a cool respite, go the unusual dessert coffee. Using another lab like glass contraption, coffee is cold brewed as the ice slowly melts and drips into the coffee grinds. This creates a purer smooth coffee taste with less acidity that is paired with honey, lemon, gula Melaka, kiwi and strawberry. My ice drip mango coffee (RM25) is the perfect way to beat the heat with the sunshine yellow chunks mingling with pink grapefruit and vanilla Haagen-Dazs ice cream. Enjoy this with a piece of yam cake, a light confection made with chunks of purple yam and topped with coconut flakes. No wonder regulars haunt this place, as a cup of java is packed with substance and tons of passion that draws you back for more. Typica Café, GL-08, Ground Floor, Shaw Parade Plaza, Jalan Changkat Thambi Dollah, Kuala Lumpur, 03-21450328. 11am to 9pm (Sunday to Tuesday), 11am to 10pm (Friday and Saturday). Closed on Wednesdays. — Photography by Lim Chee Kiong.