Crave 15 Feb 2013 by Crave Malay Mail

Friday FEBRUARY 15, 2013 S AT I S F Y I N G

YO U R

W E E K LY

F O O D

D R I N K

C R AVI N G S

W I T H

Y O U R

C O P Y

O F

ICE CREAM, REINVENTED Liquid nitrogen ice cream is blowing cold winds of change

feedback@mmail.com.my

COLD

CHANGE

THE WORLD OF ICE CREAM IN MALAYSIA GOES THROUGH A CRYOGENIC REVOLUTION Clouds of mystical white gas flood an electric mixer like a witch’s cauldron, as it churns while a man in a lab coat looks over it. He stops the mixer and scoops up icy cold creamy mass, or what is known as liquid nitrogen ice cream. This is Nbrew at eCurve, where they flash freeze their ice cream with ultra cold liquid nitrogen. The use of liquid nitrogen have been made popular by chefs tinkering with molecular gastronomy such as Heston Blumenthal of The Fat Duck in Britain, for freezing desserts in split seconds. The phenomenon spun off to commercial shops dedicated to selling liquid nitrogen ice cream in places such as United States of America (USA), London, Sydney, Hong Kong, Singapore

COOL START “I knew Malaysia did not have any place selling liquid nitrogen ice cream and decided it would be a good venture,” says Nbrew’s founder Peter Tan. The former accountant who once worked in Allianz, Sydney had first hand encounters with N2 Extreme Gelato, a liquid nitrogen ice cream place at Sydney. Similarly, OMG Chief Executive Officer Jeffery Ong saw the potential for the cold treat. “Liquid nitrogen ice cream is very different from conventional ice cream,” Ong says. According to Ong who also runs Friendscino Restaurant and Bar in Damansara Perdana, conventional ice cream needs to be churned for 30 minutes and placed in a blast freezer to produce it. “Instead we instantly freeze the ice cream within 1 minute, hence we can place a lot more things in it and the possibilities are endless on the flavour combinations,” he says. Both entrepreneurs researched extensively on this cool treat before taking the plunge. OMG partnered with I Cream from the USA, who

patented a special system to disburse the liquid nitrogen with just a touch of a button. According to Ong, OMG decided to build up their own brand with their own research and development. “We wanted to create our own brand. If we brought in the American franchise it will be expensive for the Malaysian market, “ he says. The research and development took about a year, assisted by professional chefs and representatives from I Cream. On the other spectrum, Nbrew’s Tan researched places on its own, tinkering on various ﬂavours to suit the crowd’s liking. His set up follows the same vein of places like Chin Chin Laboratories in London, or Lab Made in Hong Kong, where it is designed to resemble a science geek’s favourite place – the lab with chemical beakers and white lab coats. “We look like a lab as we want to take feedback from customer to improve,” Tan says. He tweaked his popcorn ice cream recipe, after a customer requested for it to omit the popcorn.

KEEPING IT SAFE

and Bangkok. In Malaysia, Nbrew kicked off the cool trend, when they opened their makeshift kiosk at

eCurve, end of December 2012 (their permanent shop in the mall is expected to open end of February).

Within a month, OMG Ooh My Gas L2 Ice Cream (OMG) opened its first outlet at Pavilion Kuala Lumpur.

Much talk about liquid nitrogen and its negative effects were circulating after an incident in England, where a girl unwittingly consumed liquid nitrogen in her cocktail, when it had not completely vaporized, to suffer severe medical complications like the removal of part of her stomach. The ice cream is way out of bounds, while it is still spouting smoke. Once it has rested and the

liquid nitrogen is completely vaporised, only can it be consumed. OMG’s approach to safety is the dispensation of the gas, with just a flick of the button to prevent as Ong relates, zero contact with the gas. As Tan is using a pouring method for the liquid nitrogen, he keeps safe with long lab coats and plastic gloves to prevent any spillage on any body parts.

FRIDAY 15 FEBRUARY 2013

THE MALAY MAIL

Food Bites

MAD FOR MEXICAN

MADE TO ORDER Nbrew and OMG promises ice cream with a smoother texture that will lick out the competition. Due to the rapid freeze technique, the ice crystals formed during the process are much smaller, and this results in ice cream with a creamier texture. Less milk fat is also needed to achieve a rich and creamy taste. Nbrew’s works only with gelato and yoghurt combinations, with a few flavours such as 3-4 flavours during weekdays. Tan introduces 6-7 flavours for the weekend to capture the crowd. His repertoire is a mix of classics like vanilla and chocolate, togetherwith local heros, such as durian, cendol and even cem-

pedak. Some of these flavours, are by request of customers. Variety is the spice for OMG, as they have already rolled out 20 flavours, with a choice of ice cream, gelato or a soy base. “We plan to launch another 20-30 flavours in three months that includes local favourites like gula Melaka,” says Ong. Unlike ordinary ice cream parlour, one key difference of these liquid nitrogen places is the chance for bespoke flavour combinations. Tan relates, an incident how a gym junkie once brought him a protein shake to freeze. “It tasted good, “ he says. Plans are underway to offer that flavour option to the gym goers.

Pop your cherry for authentic Mexican food at Fresca Mexican Kitchen & Bar, located at The Gardens. Decked out in warm wooden overtones with a ﬂash of bright blue, this 100-seater restaurant makes a great place to chill out for tequila, or even a quick lunch after a shopping revelry. For larger parties, a semiprivate room is available. According to Fresca’s owner, Lim Meng Jan, the menu is a mix of true blue Mexican dishes together with familiar Tex-Mex items. Keeping true to the cuisine, Fresca’s kitchen makes its own corn tortillas and sauces. Even ingredients, such as chillies are all sourced for to give the food a genuine Mexican taste. Quench your thirst with Acqua Fresca, non-alcoholic

drinks. Our Horchata is a sweet cool drink made with ground rice with a hint of warmth from a touch of cinnamon. The Agua Fresca de Hibiscus drink is a tangy refreshing quencher. From the botanas, or Mexican small plates to share, you can enjoy a light tasty Tacos Ensenada, ﬁsh tacos topped with fresh coleslaw. We can’t get enough of the super addictive cheese laden Jalapeno poppers, stuffed with beef and cheese and coated in breadcrumbs. These made perfect bar bites with the tangy chipotle mango salsa. For a light meal, the Pescado a la Vercruzana, is perfect with the pan-fried snapper accompanied by a tangy tomato sauce. Fresca also serves three kinds of rice: white with corn

niblets, green with olives, and a red one cooked in tomatoes. Street food in Mexico is famous, so go for the Quesadilla de Hongos a la Tradicional, corn tortillas stuffed with mushrooms and mozzarella cheese. Carne Asada will feed a hungry person with its hefty portion of perfectly cooked steak, refried beans, enchiladas and tomato rice. End the meal with Churros con chocolat with a chocolate dip. Plans are underway to introduce, dips such as a caramel or even peanut butter. The bar also runs happy hour promotions, such as a second beer for RM5++ on Monday night. Fresca Mexican Kitchen & Bar, The Gardens. Lot G242-A, Ground Floor, The Gardens Mall, Mid Val-

15%

DISCOUNT OFF FOOD BILL • not valid in conjunction with other food promotions including set menus • please present original coupon upon ordering • one coupon is valid only for a meal per receipt and not exchangeable for cash • the coupon is valid until 15 April, 2013.

ley, Kuala Lumpur. Tel:0322012893. Open: 11am to 11pm (Monday to Thursday, Sunday), 11am to 1am (Fridays and Saturdays). They also serve a weekend brunch menu, available also for public holiday.

GOING BIG TIME OMG plans to take over the frozen dessert world by franchising the brand. Depending on the size and the location, OMG estimates it to cost RM500,000 to RM700,000 for a mall outlet. “The location must preferably be one with a heavy traffic area, such as a mall,” says Ong. Unlike OMG’s franchise model, Nbrew prefers to just stick to the soon to open outlet at the moment. However Tan does not rule out further collaborations with other eateries, to provide the ice cream to them. In the future, both NBrew and OMG hope to introduce take away packs for the liquid nitrogen ice cream. “We are

still doing our research and development,” says Ong. Ice cream has definitely come full circle, as it’s now in trend for Malaysian tastebuds. “We had ice cream when we ‘re young, and despite all the new trends for Hong Kong and Taiwan desserts, we come back to ice cream but in a high tech way and customisation,” says Ong.

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: CARNE ASADA, TACOS ENSENADA, JALAPENOS POPPERS

Nbrew, ECurve, 2a, Jalan PJU 7/3, Mutiara Damansara, Petaling Jaya. OMG Ooh My Gas LN2 Ice Cream, P1.23, Level 1 Gourmet Emporium, Pavilion Kuala Lumpur. For franchise enquiries, email to hello@ oohmygas.com

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: CHURROS CON CHOCOLAT, QUESADILLA DE HONGOS A LA TRADICIONAL, PESCADO A LA VERCRUZANA, HORCHATA

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: THE MALL ENTRANCE, COSY DINING AT THE RESTAURANT

EDITORIAL NOTE “Happy Chinese New Year. As we celebrate in abundance, we explore the cold world of liquid nitrogen ice cream. Even though the ice cream looks like Einstein’s creation, these two places are

by Lee Khang Yi

ADVERTISING SALES

Crave Editor

spot on the trends to push our cold treats to a higher level. For other eats, we have a special treat for Crave readers - discount coupon for Fresca Mexican Kitchen and Bar’s food. There’s

also mint pesto to whip up home and Keong Saik Snacks, from Singapore. The laidback eatery has our thumbs up for a well prepared meal. Bon Appetit

Rajan Gopal Senior Manager, Direct & Classifieds Direct line: 03 74951282 rajan@mmail.com.my

FRIDAY 15 FEBRUARY 2013

COMFORT FOOD,

In the Kitchen

with Eu Hooi Khaw MINT lends itself to a myriad uses, whether in soups, sauces, salads or omelettes. We are most commonly acquainted with the fresh herb, in our bowl of curry or asam laksa. I have even had this fragrant herb in an omelette or soup. If you are feeling uncomfortable after a heavy meal, a peppermint tea will soothe your stomach; it’s supposed to get rid of wind and improve digestion. Mint is usually associated with lamb; there’s a rather sweet mint sauce with vinegar in it that’s usually served with an English roast lamb. You can use the fragrant herb in salads, or even as a garnish for cocktails, or throw it into a fruit juice. The herb native to Asia and Europe, also goes very well with cucumber, tomatoes and roasted eggplant. It was used by the ancient Assyrians in rituals to their ﬁre god. The ancient

Greeks and Romans added it to their food, in perfumes and bath scents. Powdered mint leaves in the Middle Ages were used to whiten teeth, so now you know why it’s in your toothpaste. The Greeks named mint after a mythical character Menthe. There are many kinds of mint, but the three types commonly cultivated and used for cooking, are spearmint, apple mint and peppermint. Anything green has a lot of betacarotene in it, a powerful antioxidant. Mint is also a good source of niacin and potassium, riboﬂavin, vitamin B6, folate, calcium, iron, magnesium, copper and manganese. Mint is a runner and grows extremely well in our gardens. All you have to do is to stick the stems with roots in the soil and make sure they are well watered. Once harvested, you will have to replant.

MINT PESTO

THE MALAY MAIL

REBOOTED SHAVED ASPARAGUS SALAD

THE YORKSHIRE PUDDING

ROAST PORK BELLY WITH CRISPY SKIN

BRITISH CHEF Jason Atherton is making his mark in Asia, with eateries in Singapore and Hong Kong. Famed for his Michelin-starred Pollen Street Social in London, Atherton has to date, opened three outposts down south. First, it was the hip tapas bar Esquina followed by Pollen, a fine dining spot at Gardens at the Bay, and his latest is Keong Saik Snacks (round the corner from Esquina). The 30-seater eatery is envisioned as a low-key cafeteria. Think comfort food, such as hotdog, burger, French fries or even the British classic roast, given a bit more polish. Push through the doors, to discover a place caught in a limbo – one part sun-lit and bright, with an inner core that sports a grungy bar and an open kitchen outfitted in copper and wood. There’s even a hidden bar within the walls, opened like Aladdin’s cave with a secret password. Our recent lunch here was a laidback affair with a mix of orders from their recently introduced Weekend Punch Brunch menu, and some mainstays from the a la carte menu, to be shared. Don’t expect snack sizes though, as the serving portion can happily feed a small eater. You are better off sharing a few items among friends so you can try more choices. Kicking off the meal was the

APPLE TARTE TATIN

fun D-I-Y tuna tartare (SGD17). We tossed in roasted sesame seeds, finely chopped spring onions, coriander leaves, soy sauce, with a dash of Thai vinaigrette to our ahi tuna cubes, for a refreshing bite with our thin toasts slathered with wasabi cream. Next, it was a Mushroom soup (SGD14), which offered our tummies comfort, with its earthy taste and a dollop of crème fraiche. Bite into the Kimchi burger (SGD24) for a juicy wagyu beef patty with some homemade kimchi, served on the side. The cabbage pickle, tastes less pungent than usual, but complements the burger well. Get your hands also on Jason’s Very Hot Dog (SGD17), a 9-inch chorizo topped with a delicious ketchup lime, cheese, guacamole, spicy jalapenos and crispy shallots. Pair this with Chilli garlic fries (SGD7), given a minor upgrade with some chopped chillies and garlic. For refreshing greens, opt for the Shaved Asparagus Salad (SGD18) with the spears, topped with creamy burrata, beetroot and crunchy poly radish slices. The brunch menu features

1/2 cup fresh mint leaves 1 tablespoon ground macadamia nuts 1 tablespoon minced garlic 1/4 cup olive oil 1 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese 1/4 teaspoon salt Put the mint leaves, nuts and garlic in a food processor, drizzle in oil and blend till smooth. Add cheese and salt. You can serve the pesto with grilled ﬁsh or toss it with pasta.

Crave pays for all its meals and all its reviews are conducted anonymously.

KIMCHI BURGER

JASON’S VERY HOT DOG

a mix of breakfast items and their versions of English roast like the Roast pork belly with crispy skin (SGD28). The small slab of juicy meat comes with crunchy crackling, which was served with a tart apple sauce, pork gravy, glazed vegetables, and the most divine roasted potatoes with crispy skins. The Yorkshire pudding, roasted foie gras, beef rib and onion gravy (SGD24), was a nice twist to the British classic. It’s a rich and sinful combination, which is served within the soufflé-like Yorkshire pudding. For sweets, go for the Hot doughnuts with cinnamon and caramel Chantilly (SGD10). There’s only one word for it: heavenly! The combination of the silky cream, works well when paired with the hot deep

fried dough. In comparison, the more sophisticated Apple Tarte Tatin with Vanilla Chantilly and Vanilla Ice Cream (SGD18) seemed rather ordinary with its deconstructed puff pastry layer. The eatery also serves homemade ice cream. Dining here is rather fun for a no-frills simple lunch, jazzed up a bit with some thoughtful touches. Even if the casual food is not your thing, the place with its charming neighbourhood of refurbished shophouses within this former red light district will make it a worthy visit. Keong Saik Snacks, 49, Keong Saik Road, Singapore. Tel:02-62218338. There’s a no reservation policy.