Crave 18 Jan 2013

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TOSS FOR LUCK

Get your chopsticks ready to usher in the prosperous Year of the Snake

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PROSPERITY P

Chinese New Year is not complete without a toss of yee sang. The Chinese believe this fun tradition bri communal dish is a contrast in textures, with the sauce binding it together. Usually, it is topped with ingr celebrate abundance for this once-in-the-year treat. Diners will toss the items while chanting auspicious sour salad has evolved from its humble beginnings, as some chefs liberally interpret this dish with their o available in the restaurants, with the exception of Chynna that starts on January 28 and Sek Yuen Restaur them in the restaurant or in the comfort of your own home as take away po

OLD SCHOOL Time stands still in this venerable Pudu restaurant that harks back to the 1960s. People flock here during the festive season to sample the yee sang, which reminds them of the old days.

Don’t expect any salmon sashimi here as they only serve the yee sang with raw snake head fish or sang yue slices, given a dash of lime juice, five spice powder and ground white pep-

GO GREEN Taking a page from his Hakka heritage, Hilton Kuala Lumpur Chinese Chef Lam Hock Hin has whipped up a Hakka Lui Cha version for this season. The creative Chef Lam often breaks the tradition with his new fangled yee sang. Last year, he introduced his Caesar salad inspired yee sang. The Hakka Lui Cha yee sang is packed with lots of goodies such as choy sum, baby bok choy, tofu, long beans, pickled vegetables, peanuts, carrots, enoki mushrooms, pok choi crackers, and dried prawns. Binding all these ingredients together is plum sauce, healthy rice bran oil and a less pungent basil sauce.

The Hakka favourite makes an

appetising green change to tradition. In addition, the hotel also offers an unusual Sea birds nest and golden MD2 pineapple version. The sea birds nest is a type of seaweed harvested in Sabah with a crunchy texture, which combines well with the pineapple famous for its sweet juicy taste. For those with deep pockets, the restaurant also offers Australian live lobster sashimi and abalone versions.

The Hakka Lui Cha and Sea birds nest yee sang is RM88++ for half portion and RM168++ for a full portion.

Chynna, Hilton Kuala Lumpur, Sentral, Kuala Lumpur. Tel:0322642592

RAW WONDER With all the Chinese New Year feasting, keep your waistline in check with this light and refreshing zero calorie yee sang from Living Food Bistro. This healthy toss up is a mix of jade perch sashimi slices, mizuna vegetables, crunchy kelp noodles, dehydrated zucchini shreds, pink pomelo sacs, carrots, cucumber and crunchy dehydrated flax seed crackers. It is all brought together with mandarin orange perilla oil dressing topped with chopped almonds. All the ingredients are

raw or cooked at low temperature of 42C to preserve its natural enzymes, with the exception of a little hot oil used to anoint the jade perch sashimi. The yee sang is perfect for sharing between three to four people for RM68++. The bistro also started offering dinner service for Thursday to Saturday nights.

Living Food Bistro, G-04, Menara Tan & Tan, Jalan Tun Razak, Kuala Lumpur. Tel: 03-21812778/016-8889123.

ABUNDANCE OF GOODIES Toss up some goodness with 96 organic ingredients to be precise.

Each year, Erawan Classic Thai and Fusion have been raising their yee sang to lofty heights with an abundance of ingredients.

The concoction that took about four days for the talented Chef Korn to tweak is a wonder on its own, as each ingredient works well together. According to the restaurant, the number 96 was chosen to signify prosperity. One can play hunt the ingredient with each toss. Expect to find a mix of fresh vegetables, fruits and nuts, all working in harmony with their mild Thai sauce with a hint of tamarind. The 96 ingredients yee sang is priced at RM196++.

A smaller version with 68 ingredients is also available at RM128++. Book your yee sang one day in advance for this once in the year treat. Takeaway is also offered in an ornate gold box that can be recycled as a keepsake.

The restaurant will also be issuing

certificates to diners with a list of the auspicious 96 ingredients.

Erawan Classic Thai and Fusion, 22-1, Jalan PJU 5/16, Dataran Sunway Kota Damansara, Petaling Jaya. Tel: 03-61412393.

per. Toss the pickled papaya and ginger, shredded carrots and radish, pomelo sacs, deep fried yam strips, coriander leaves, sesame seeds, nam yue flavoured crackers and roasted peanuts, together with a plum sauce and peanut oil.

Sek Yuen, 313-1 and 315, Jalan Pudu, Kuala Lumpur.

Tel:03-92229457.

PLATES

ings health and prosperity for the lunar year. The redients such as abalone, scallops, and salmon to s greetings and wishes. This crunchy, sweet and own innovative manner. All the yee sang is already rant that will serve from February onwards. Enjoy ortions are available.

FRIDAY 18 JANUARY 2013

THE MALAY MAIL

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BREAKING THE RULES In the realm of Chinese chefs who often hold tightly to tradition, Sam Leong leads with a difference - a pioneer who reinterprets Chinese dishes to give it a modern slant. This bold move propelled the former Malaysian to gain international status as an award winning chef who has cooked for celebrities, like Queen Elizabeth II and former US presidents George Bush and Bill Clinton. And to think, Leong ventured into this profession as his mother refused to grant his wish to be a policeman.

The former student from Methodist Boys School came from a lineage of Chinese chefs. “My uncle owned Tai Thong Restaurant in Imbi, my dad was the chef and my cousins worked in the kitchen,” he says. In 1980, his parents moved to Singapore. The playful teenager was not interested in studies, and joined his father in the restaurant’s kitchen. “For my first year, I would be playing around and be pampered by everyone.

One day my father sat me down and told me that as a man I needed to work hard for my family, future wife and children,” he says. That talk, he jokingly refers to as brainwashing, saw Leong taking the initiative to work hard for the next 30 years to make a name for himself in Chinese cooking.

During an overseas stint in Novotel Bangkok, he met his Thai

wife, Forest, a hotel intern. He impressed his future in-laws, by cooking black pepper crab, another of his signature dishes. In 1993, Leong moved back to Singapore to head the new Four Seasons’ Chinese restaurant Jiang-Nan Chuan.

Unlike other Chinese chefs who rarely ventured far from claimed Chef Joel Robuchon. the wok, Leong plucked up “I learnt from Robuchon that his courage to interact with everything in the plate must diners. According to Leong, he be edible,” he says. Leong picked this up during a dinner cites the example of the elabat Alain Ducasse’s restaurant orate vegetable carving often in Paris, as he witnessed how gracing dishes as an example, the French master charmed as it will be passed from plate diners who had earlier com- to plate, raising the question plained about a less than stel- of hygiene. Initially, resistance lar pumpkin soup. “I noticed came from diners who felt how powerful the chef was the individual portions were that the diners would forgive inferior to the large portion. him for over salting their Some chefs from the restausoup,” he says. Leong rant even resigned, as Look for decided to practice, they proclaimed this Sam Leong’s building his confimethod to be fussy. recipes including his dence to interact Nevertheless, Lesignature wasabi prawns with diners at ong pushed on his the restaurant. in our digital edition. Click ideas that got the on www.mmail.com.my “It is good that media’s attention for the link. you understand especially after he what the customer cooked a six-course needs and you build Chinese meal for a the relationship,” he says. In solo diner that included soup, Jiang-Nan Chuan, Leong also Peking duck, wasabi prawns, set the trend to serve individu- and a dessert. The trendsetter ally portioned dishes, a con- changed the face of Chinese cept unheard in the Chinese dining, from just a fast food restaurant that traditionally concept to a more relaxed served one large portion to be dining atmosphere similar to shared. “The individual plating a Western restaurant with a brings traditional Chinese food good wine list. to another level,” he says. The Two years ago, Leong decididea for this came from ac- ed to leave his position in Tung

Lok Group to open a cooking academy with wife, Forest. Leong admits it was a dream of his wife to educate others. “My wife love teaching that is why we started the school to cook together,” he says. Recently he acted as a consultant for Resorts World Sentosa to open Forest, a restaurant that showcases his recipes and trendsetting Chinese concepts including individual portions and square tables. Next on his agenda, he will be launching his biography in March and an upcoming Thai spa book with his wife. In the meanwhile, the father of two boys admits he is just a simple man who loves long drives in his car. The former KL boy is a simple one, who likes to eat street food like the locals. His aim in Kuala Lumpur, is to sample his favourites: Ampang yong tau foo and Nam Heong chicken rice “Die die also I must go,” he says for the loyal chicken rice eater.

Chef Sam Leong was cooking for the grand opening of Tao Chinese Cuisine in InterContinental Kuala Lumpur.

RED PROSPERITY Breaking the plum sauce tradition, Lai Ching Yuen’s strawberry sauce gives a twist to their yee sang. In addition, chunky fresh scallops give texture to the toss up together with sweet tasting fresh mango. The restaurant also offers a soft shell crab version. Abundance is also the name of the festive

season, so add on deluxe items such as abalone, geo duck clam and lobster. Prices start from RM58++ for half portion, RM98++ for full portion.

Lai Ching Yuen, Grand Millenium Kuala Lumpur, 160, Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur.

Tel:03-21174180.

FRUITY FLAVOURS Over at Celestial Court, the traditional plum sauce has been lightened with fruits such as mangoes and apples. These fruity infusions work well to give an edge to the yee sang. In addition, the restaurant also offers a variety of yee sang topped with a seafood mix such as crispy soft shell crab, salmon and crunchy Japanese octopus. For those

who love to spice up their dishes, go for the luxurious yee sang with abalone combined with a spicy Thai and orange sauce.

Prices for the yee sang starts from RM168++ onwards.

Celestial Court, Sheraton Imperial Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur. Tel: 0327179900 ext 6933.

TANTALISING TAO Excite your senses at Tao Chinese Cuisine in InterContinental Kuala Lumpur, which opened its doors this January following a two-month refurbishment exercise.

The stylish Chinese restaurant is decked out in pale pink peach

blossoms, a tribute to its name. Holding center court in the restaurant is a spectacular cloud-like ceiling made from twinkling lights.

On the menu, you have Chinese dishes given a modern flair by Chef Wong Lian You. Expect

EDITORIAL NOTE One of the best things about celebrating Chinese New Year is the run up to the festivities. Even though the actual celebrations only start on February 10, most restaurants have started to serve yee sang. This year, the chefs have given a healthy slant to the festive dish. Expect to see bright green vegetables in a Hakka Lui Cha inspired yee sang

by Lee Khang Yi

|

some twists to tradition, such as Peking Duck served with foie gras, truffles or eringi mushrooms. The pork free restaurant also offers an unusual interpretation of bak kut teh, using poached lamb fillet. You can also enjoy

dim sum for lunch with an exquisite Chinese tea selection sourced from Taiwan and China.

Chef Wong previously worked at Lai Po Heen in Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur.

Tao Chinese Cuisine,

InterContinental Kuala Lumpur, 165 Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur. Tel:03-21611111.

Open from 12pm to 2.30pm (Monday to Friday), 11am to 2.30pm (Saturday to Sunday), 6.30pm to 10.30pm.

Crave Editor

in Chynna, or better still go for the zero calorie version in Living Food that is made entirely from raw food.

Then, there’s the mammoth yee sang jam packed with 96 ingredients from Erawan. Our columnist also discovers fried porridge and serves up a healthy cucumber salad. We also talk to Chinese chef Sam Leong, a former Malaysian who now lives

in Singapore. Leong is credited as a trendsetter who changed the face of Chinese cuisine, giving it a fresh modern air. Look towards our digital edition for his recipes, including his signature wasabi prawns. Keep in touch by emailing me at khangyi@ mmail.com.my Happy eating!

ADVERTISING SALES Rajan Gopal Senior Manager, Direct & Classifieds Direct line: 03 74951282 rajan@mmail.com.my

Cover credit: Celestial Court, Sheraton Kuala Lumpur’s yee sang

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FRIDAY 18 JANUARY 2013

CUCUMBER SALAD WITH MISO DRESSING

In the Kitchen

with Eu Hooi Khaw ONE OF THE most widely cultivated vegetables in the world is the cucumber.

These crisp green vegetables are often incorporated into all types of cuisine.

The English are well known for their cucumber sandwiches for afternoon tea.

The Spanish have their gazpacho, a chilled cucumber soup commonly eaten during summer, while the Indians have their cucumber raita. The Nonyas also use the cucumber to make a spicy tangy pickle known as acar. The crunchy vegetable, is pickled together with carrots, cabbage, roasted peanuts and a spicy sauce.

In the markets, there are a few varieties of cucumbers, such as the light green, the Japanese dark green, and mini Piccolino. The Japanese variety with its dark green smooth skin and the mini ones, are both favoured for their crunchy firm taste with less seeds. The Chinese also favour the aged cucumber with its brown and wrinkly skin, to create sweet tasting Chinese soups.

Boil chunks of the old cucumber with dried cuttlefish, pork ribs or chicken, red dates and a spoonful of kei chee or wolfberries. All these make a sweet, flavourful and nutritious soup that is so good for your lungs, blood, eyes, and some believe to be ant-aging.

THE MALAY MAIL

The crisp vegetables are good for detoxifying the spleen, stomach and the colon. According to traditional Chinese medicine, it works for those with acne, acting as cool energy on the stomach, and cleansing the blood. Try eating cucumber with salt if you have a sore throat. Cucumber also helps with constipation. Have a cucumber for breakfast; it adds bulk to the system and clears the bowels, as it is also a natural diuretic. Try not to peel a cucumber as the cell salts and vitamins are in and near it. It is a good source of vitamins A, C, B6, K, and potassium, phosphorous, magnesium, manganese and calcium. The vegetable is also full of phytoestrogens, believed to help t … nden OVE gpow menopausal women. Juice WE L ’s Indepe sical an ith n m w i e h d B e “ cucumber with beetroot and er’s w azon Groc ts embl game, e celery, drink it regularly and pack hildhood ders, a he d t the c s and la Year of ill it will help get rid of uric acid e snak te to the k fans w the e that occurs in those suffering tribu e. Star Tr take on live r : Snak ove thei phrase lable from gout, rheumatism and arn l i also us Vulca per. Ava h t thritis. The vegetable also doufamo and pros arket wi til n long superm made u e bles up as a natural beauty aid. e at th purchas each s last. “ Apply grated cucumber over the stock face, eyes and neck and leave it for 20 minutes. It will tone up the skin and get rid of eye bags.

miso dressing 1 tablespoon light brown miso paste 2 teaspoons grated young ginger 3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped finely 1 teaspoon sesame oil 4 teaspoons rice or apple cider vinegar ½ teaspoon brown sugar, or to taste 2 medium sized Japanese cucumbers, cut into ribbons 1 medium sized carrot, peeled and cut into ribbons 12 cherry tomatoes, halved garnish 2 teaspoons toasted sesame seeds

Combine the dressing ingredients. Toss half of the dressing with the cucumbers, carrot, and cherry tomatoes. You can also add more dressing if preferred.

Store the rest of the dressing in a jar in the fridge.

Sprinkle with sesame seeds and serve. You can replace the carrots and tomatoes, with other vegetables such as lettuce, blanched broccoli, cauliflower and snow peas.

MORE THAN JUST FISHBALLS

BY Eu Hooi Khaw

Better known for their fish balls and noodles, I was piqued to try Tang Pin Kitchen when a friend raved about their Fried porridge, a dish more commonly found in Klang. The Fried porridge (RM12) is dark brown in colour with a smooth but slightly thick texture. I was surprised at its sweet fullbodied flavour, contributed by frying the porridge with cuttlefish strips and minced meat. The porridge served in a claypot, is topped with fish cake slices, deep fried lard and chopped spring onions.

The no frills restaurant is also famous for its Mee pok (RM6): flat shaped noodles topped with minced pork, chopped spring onions and fried lard bits, you toss with a thick sauce of chilli, oil and vinegar on the side. The smooth, al dente noodles were so good, mixed with the tangy sauce and the garnishes. On the side, a bowl of soup with fish cake slices is served. We also enjoyed the Fried chee cheong fun (RM4).

Similar to char kway teow, this moist version features broader noodles, fried with bean sprouts, Chinese chives, choy poh or pickled radish and egg. However, we did not fare so well with the fried Mini dumplings or woh tip (RM6).

The dumpling’s skin was too soft and floury, even though the pork filling in it was tasty.

I had ordered the Ginger tea and soy milk (RM3.50) thinking it was a drink but it turned out to be dessert. I was bowled over by the warm soy milk flavoured with slices of ginger cooked in brown sugar, to form a fragrant caramel-like texture syrup.

Some of this thick ginger syrup was also in the soy milk, as well as two glutinous rice dumplings with black sesame filling. It was a dessert that I thoroughly enjoyed, especially the candy-like ginger slices. Unfortunately, the Double-boiled lotus seed, lily bulb, snow fungus and red dates (RM3.80), was way too sweet, despite its healthy ingredients. I also ordered their Signature Hainan tea (RM3.50) to finish, which I liked a lot. This came with a frothy head followed by a golden brown tea layer, and

FRIED PORRDIGE FRIED CHEE CHEONG FUN

MEE POK

INSIDE TANG PIN KITCHEN

milk at the bottom layer. It reminded me a little of the smooth Hong Kong milk tea or lai char, but with a lighter less distinct tea flavour.

We looked at the next table and saw the diners having Steamed pork with salted fish,

with a bowl of rice and a soup of vegetables and fish balls.

Perhaps we will have these on our next visit, as well as the Golden homeland noodles, Yam cake, Celery noodles and Fried fish noodles and Chee cheong fun.

Crave pays for all its meals and all its reviews are conducted anonymously.

FROTHY HAINAN TEA

Tang Pin Kitchen, 24, Jalan SS2/24, Petaling Jaya. Tel: 03-78772376.

Open daily: 8am to 10.30pm. They also have branches at 31, Jalan

GINGER TEA AND SOY MILK

SS15/4E, Subang Jaya, Petaling Jaya, and 46 & 47 Jalan PJS1/50, Petaling Utama Avenue, Taman Petaling Utama, Petaling Jaya.

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CREATIVE CHINESE

Sam Leong shares his recipes including his signature wasabi prawns

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FRIDAY 18, jANUARY 2013

CRISPY WASABI-MAYO PRAWNS WITH MANGO SALSA (4 servings) This is Sam Leong’s signature dish that he created about 19 years ago.

To prepare sauce: In a bowl, whisk together all the ingredients until it has a smooth consistency. Refrigerate until needed.

wasabi-mayo sauce 60g mayonnaise 10g condensed milk 6g wasabi paste 6g lemon juice mango salsa 100g mango, peeled and cut into small dice 30g mint leaves, finely chopped 30g Thai chilli sauce 2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped

To prepare salsa: Mix all the ingredients together and chill in the refrigerator.

To prepare prawns: Marinate the prawns with the salt, sugar, sesame oil and egg

white for 15 minutes. Coat the prawns with corn flour, shaking off any excess. Heat oil in a wok. Deep fry the prawns in the hot oil until it is crispy. Remove and drain on paper towels.

To serve: Mix the deep fried prawns with the sauce. Place on a plate. Top with mango salsa. Garnish with a chervil leaf. Serve immediately.

8 large prawns, peeled, deveined and cut into a butterfly ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon sugar ¼ teaspoon sesame oil ½ egg white 50g corn flour oil for deep frying

THE MALAY MAIL

DOUBLE BOILED CHICKEN CONSOMME WITH FRESH CORDYCEPS FLOWER AND DRIED SCALLOP (5 servings)

chicken consomme 1 chicken (about 1.5 to 2kg), skinned and chopped in 10 pieces 1 kg lean pork meat 10 chicken feet 2 litres water 2 deboned chicken drumsticks, skinned, cut into small pieces and poached or 1 minute 15 cordyceps flowers, soaked in water for 15 minutes and drained 5 dried scallops 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon sugar dash of Chinese Shao Xing wine

1 chervil leaf

Chef’s Tip: If condensed milk is unavailable, avoid using dairy creamer but replace with honey.

The marinade can also be used for fish and scallop. You can also keep the marinated prawns frozen. Just defrost the prawns before frying them.

To prepare consommé: Poach the chicken in boiling water for 1 minute. Drain and remove all the scum. Place the chicken and other ingredients in a large pot. Bring to boil. Lower heat and simmer for 3 hours. Discard ingredients and sieve the consommé to remove any impurities. Reserve 1 litre of consommé.

To prepare soup: Divide the poached chicken, cordyceps flowers and scallops among five soup bowls. Bring to boil the chicken consommé. Season to taste with salt and sugar. Divide the consommé among the bowls. Steam for 2 hours. Remove and add a dash of Chinese Shao Xing wine. Serve immediately.

BRAISED E-FU NOODLES WITH MUSHROOMS ½ teaspoon oil 1 teaspoon dried sole fish powder 12 straw mushrooms, drained from the can and halved 400ml chicken consommé 200g E-Fu noodles, soaked in hot water until soft and drained 100g yellow chives (gao wong), cut into 3cm lengths seasoning 3 teaspoons oyster sauce ½ teaspoon sugar ¼ teaspoon sesame oil 1 teaspoon Chinese Shao Xing wine dash of ground white pepper dash of dark soy sauce garnish 2 spring onions, green parts cut into 3cm lengths

(5 servings)

Heat the wok until hot with a dash of oil. Add the dry sole fish powder; fry over medium heat until fragrant. Add straw mushrooms, chicken consommé and the noodles. Bring to boil.

Add the seasoning and braise the noodles for 5 minutes or until the sauce thickens. Add yellow chives and stir to combine. Remove and serve garnished with spring onions.

Chef’s tip: The dried sole fish (chor hau hee) gives these noodles a nice aroma. Source the dried fish from dried seafood shops.

You need to remove the bone, deep fry the fish in hot oil until golden brown before blending it into a powder. If the fish is unavailable, replace with minced garlic.