21 September 2012 by Crave Malay Mail

Friday september 21, 2012 S AT I S F Y I N G

YO U R

W E E K LY

F O O D

D R I N K

C R AVI N G S

W I T H

Y O U R

C O P Y

O F

feedback@mmail.com.my

AN ORIENTAL AFFAIR Hilton Petaling Jayaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Toh Yuen Restaurant unveils a refreshed a la carte menu

SAUTEED PRAWN SALTED EGG Y (2 SERVINGS) 300g prawns, peeled and deveined 1 egg white ½ teaspoon salt 200g plain ﬂour 100g potato starch oil for frying 2 tablespoons butter 8 salted egg yolks, steamed and smashed 200ml UHT milk ½ teaspoon chicken stock ½ teaspoon salt ½ spring onion, green part only and chopped ﬁnely

Marinate prawns with egg white and salt for 30 minutes. Combine the ﬂour and potato starch in a bowl. Heat oil in a small saucepan. Dredge marinated prawns in ﬂour mixture, shaking off any excess. Deep-fry prawns till golden brown. Remove and drain excess oil on paper towels. Set aside. Heat butter in a wok. Add salted egg yolks, Taster Comments:

This is strictly for specia prawns are so huge and d creamy salted egg yolk sa RACHEL MAH, student

EDITORIAL NOTE by Lee Khang Yi

Crave Editor

This week, Chef Lee from Hilton Petaling Jaya’s Toh Yuen Restaurant shares his recipes from his new menu. The steamed ﬁsh is a perfect foil for the tongue tingling ginger topping. It takes a bit of work to prepare the topping but the taste is worth it. For his salted egg yolk prawns dish, he shares a tip on how to keep those prawns crunchy. For those looking for a healthy meal, cook up the burdock in Eu Hooi Khaw’s recipe. She was taught how to cook this tasty dish by a Japanese friend. Hooi Khaw also tries out the Swiss-German fare at Euro Deli. For sweet lovers, we have the French cakes and macarons from Les Deux Garcons. And it’s not too late to shop for an elegant teapot from LIULI LIVING since Mid-Autumn festival falls on September 30. Email me any feedback you have to khangyi@ mmail.com.my. Bon Appetit!

ADVERTISING SALES Rajan Gopal Senior Manager, Direct & Classifieds Direct line: 03 74951282 rajan@mmail.com.my

STEAMED COD FISH WITH YU FENG GINGER SAUCE (2 SERVINGS)

yu feng ginger topping 500ml oil 200g old ginger, peeled and coarsely blended 20g dried chillies, finely blended 1 teaspoon Szechuan peppercorns, finely ground ½ teaspoon salt ½ spring onion, green part only and finely chopped sauce ½ teaspoon chicken stock 100ml soy sauce 1 tablespoon sugar 300g black cod fish, cleaned 80g young spinach, blanched

To prepare topping: Heat oil in a wok. Deep fry the ginger until golden brown. Remove and drain excess oil on paper towel. Remove the oil and heat wok. Toast the chillies and Szechuan peppercorns until it is fragrant over low heat. Toss in the deepfried ginger, salt and spring onions; stir-fry for 1 minute. Remove and set aside.

To steam ﬁsh: Heat a steamer. Steam the cod ﬁsh over high heat for 8 minutes. Remove and drain away any water.

To prepare sauce: Bring all the ingredients to boil. Cook until the sugar melts. Keep warm.

Chef’s Tip: Prepare the topping fresh to give it maximum ﬂavour.

To serve: Place spinach on a plate and top with the steamed ﬁsh. Garnish with the topping. Spoon sauce on the side and serve immediately. – Photo by Westlight Photography.

Taster Comments:

I love this quick and easy way to add lots of ﬂavour to steamed cod ﬁsh. The spicy ginger topping is very aromatic.” RACHEL MAH, student

FRIDAY 21 SEPTEMBER 2012

NS WITH YOLK milk, chicken stock and salt; mix to combine. Toss in deepfried prawns and coat with the sauce. Remove and place on a plate. Top with spring onions. Serve immediately. – Photo by Westlight Photography. Chef’s Tip: Marinating the prawn with egg white gives it a better bite.

al occasions since the decadent with the sauce.”

THE MALAY MAIL

RENEWED FLAVOURS In the Kitchen Recently, Hilton Petaling Jaya’s Toh Yuen Restaurant went through a major overhaul of their a la carte menu. The change saw about 60 to 70 percent of its pork-free Cantonese based menu being replaced with dishes adjusted to local taste buds. The menu also includes wellthought-out delicacies, which draws on Chef Lee Kok Siong’s travels to China. This inspiration comes from places such as Guangzhou, Chongqing, Beijing and Xinjiang. One of these delicacies is the Steamed cod with the spicy Yu Feng ginger topping featured on our cover. The spicy topping originates from Chongqing, the largest city in the Sichuan province in China, that is famed for their mouth numbing food. Chef Lee was also inspired by the ﬂavours from the Silk Road, especially from Xinjiang that resulted in his Deep-fried lamb with cumin and dried chilli dish. He also incorporates those ﬂavours in the dish, Sauteed venison slices with cumin. The dish is also topped with thinly sliced Chinese crullers to give it a crunchy texture. Chef Lee upholds the emphasis on a healthy menu using Chinese herbs and fresh ingredients, a practice from the previous menu. Expect nourishing Double boiled chicken with shi hu (dendrobium stem) or the Double boiled village chicken with chong cao hua

with Eu Hooi Khaw

(cordyceps ﬂower) soup. Fresh ingredients such as fruits are also used in the dishes. For the Deep fried smoked duck, a sweet tasting pink dragon fruit sauce and honeydew slices alleviate the oily taste of the smoked duck. Finish off your meal with the unique Deep fried banana with strawberry and cheesecake, where the fritter is stuffed with the creamy cheesecake and sweet fruit. The restaurant emphasises a no-MSG policy to cater to their foreign guests Even the use of soda bicarbonate is banned here. According to Chef Lee, the powder is used in Chinese cooking to give a crunchy taste to vegetables. For reservations, contact Tel: 03-79559122 Ext 4073/4. The a la carte menu is available for lunch and dinner. Currently, the restaurant is running a Shanghai food promotion till September 30.

In Japan, the burdock or gobo as it is known, is often featured in many Japanese dishes. One of the most popular is gobu no kimpira, where the julienned burdock root is cooked in soy sauce, sugar and mirin. The plant grows wild in the Mediterranean, Asia and North America but in Japan, it is cultivated as a vegetable. Burdock goes by the botanical name Arctium lappa. The word arctium is derived from the Greek word, arktos, which means a bear, referring to the roughness of the little hooked burrs on the round heads of purple ﬂowers of the plant. Lappa means to seize and the burr adheres to everything it comes into contact with, par-

ticularly the coats of animals. In the 1940s, Swiss inventor George de Mestral was said to be inspired to create Velcro after observing how the same burrs hooked on his dog’s fur. In the shops, you can find long brown skinned burdock roots being sold. Avoid the thick ones with darker centres as they tend to be rather woody. Under its brown skin, the flesh is white and will turn grey unless put in water. For storage purposes, cut the burdock into smaller pieces and refrigerate the roots wrapped in paper. When cooked, the root has a crisp and sweet mild flavour. Soaking the cut roots for at least ten minutes tend to remove any muddy taste.

The burdock is rich in ﬁbre. It is effective for curing constipation, restoring healthy digestion and lowering cholesterol. Regular consumption of the root is also known to prevent diabetes. The burdock root oil is also believed to improve the strength and shine of hair, get rid of dandruff and promotehealing of skin.

STIR-FRIED BURDOCK (GOBU NO KIMPIRA)

120g burdock (or 1/3 of the root) 1 1/2 tablespoons sesame oil 1 medium-size carrot, peeled and cut into julienne 1 1/2 tablespoons mirin 3 teaspoons soy sauce 1/2 teaspoon sugar 2 teaspoons sesame seeds, toasted

ter. Cut the burdock into julienne and soak in water for at least 10 minutes to prevent discolouration and remove any muddy taste. Drain before frying. Heat sesame oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. Add the drained burdock; stir-fry for two minutes over high heat. Add the carrots; stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the mirin, soy sauce and sugar; stir-fry continuously until most of the liquid has evaporated. Remove and serve sprinkled with sesame seeds.

Scrape the burdock’s brown skin off with a sharp knife under wa-

Note: Cut the burdock with a knife instead of a vegetable

This classic dish is often found in Japanese homes. Pair the vegetables with grilled beef slices, roast meats, or put it inside pita bread for a vegetarian meal.

peeler to get a better texture. The rest of the burdock can be boiled in soups or just boil it in water for 30 minutes to produce a drink that cleanses your system.

FOOD bites The Wellspring teapot

CELEBRATING WITH DINNER For the first time, Hospitality Asia Platinum Awards (HAPA) and Berjaya Times Square Hotel Kuala Lumpur will be collaborating for the inaugural dinner titled Chefs and Cuisine Experience 2012. Set for October 1, the dinner will feature chefs from HAPA award winning restaurants from the Asian region, and those who have picked up the awards. The six chefs will prepare their courses in front of diners at the special showcase kitchen located at Berjaya Times Square Hotel’s Samplings on the Fourteenth Restaurant. The dinner will feature Western dishes prepared by Chef Thomas Suhring and Chef Mathias Suhring, twin chefs from Mezzaluna Restaurant, Tower Club at Lebua Bangkok, Chef Alessandro Frau from Acqua Restaurant, Phuket, Thailand, and Chef Benoit Chargy from Hilton Kuala Lumpur who will be preparing the dessert. It also includes a Chinese abalone dish, prepared by Chef Yong Bing Ngen from Restaurant Majestic, Singapore. At the time of the media preview, the seats for the one night event were all sold out, but HAPA Chief Executive Officer Jennifer Ong promises that there will be more events of this kind in the future, albeit in a smaller scale. One dish to look forward for each HAPA event is the HAPA signature dish devised by Chef Thomas Chiam from Friends Catering, Singapore. Ong who swears by Chiam’s chilled angel hair pasta in truffle essence, will feature it in all upcoming events including this dinner. The aromatic cold pasta has a delicate balance of truffle oil, konbu (seaweed), chopped chives, and topped with caviar, that is extremely moreish. Chiam is a passionate advocate of food sustainability. For the media preview, he prepared his signature chicken rice, a delicious dish that allows you the natural taste of free-range probiotic-fed chickens. It is served with a light green ginger sauce made from spring onions and ginger on the side, to not overpower its natural taste.

TANTALISING TEAPOTS

The Plump Little Bird teapot

For the Mid-Autumn celebrations, mooncakes are best enjoyed with tea. Especially for the festivities, the tea drinking can be celebrated with the use of LIULI LIVING’s elegant teapot collection. The delicate pure white collection consist of the Plump Little Bird and the Wellspring teapot sets. LIULI LIVING is LIULIGONGFANG’s creative lifestyle brand. The Taiwanese based LIULIGONGFANG is famous worldwide for their artistic Chinese glassware.

The Plump Little Bird teapot radiates an animated geometric touch. On the body of the teapot, it features the plump yet reﬁned birds that were inspired by the works of famous Ming and Qing era painter Bada Shanren. For the Wellspring teapot, the design draws from the unique antique Chinese design of squares and rounds, said to symbolise round heaven, square earth to illustrate the harmony between heaven and earth. The teapot

also features geometric embossed patterns, inspired by traditional motifs said to symbolise boundless continuity. On the lid, it features a touch of the elegant Liuli red crystal and a dragon for strength and authority. The Plump Little Bird teapot retails at RM388, while the Wellspring teapot retails at RM368. LIULIGONGFANG is at L2.01.06, Level 2, Pavilion Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur, Tel: 03-21489618.

FRIDAY 21, september 2012

THE MALAY MAIL

MEAT MATTERS

PETITE

PLEASURES

EVEN though a new menu is in place at the Euro Deli Restaurant, it’s inevitable that its signature Roast pork knuckle would grab attention the first time you are there. That was what happened with a friend that I brought there to eat. Then the restaurant manager recommended its special for the day - BBQ baby back ribs – and we said yes to that too. A salad was called for and I chose the Smoked salmon & citrus salad, and since we were all right with taking home any unfinished food for a favourite nephew, we also ordered the Farmer’s bratwurst (coarse). Most of us know about Euro Deli’s Swiss-German fare such as sausages, ham and bacon, which you can find in major supermarkets in the country. So it would be remiss not to have a taste of the bratwurst too. I have known Euro Deli since 1997 when it first opened this restaurant in Damansara Kim. I have had meals in there and takeaway sandwiches, besides buying the specialty sausages and bacon. Even then it was known as a café-cum-deli where you enjoy an inexpensive, hearty lunch or dinner. It has remained that way since its renovation in 2009 that gave it a new look with poster art of Marilyn Monroe and Elvis Presley hung on its walls. It’s also known for its imported draft beers. Breakfast is also served, from 10am to 11.45am, with a selection of pancakes, waffles, scrambled

BY Eu Hooi Khaw

eggs, sausages, grilled ham and bacon. The Roast pork knuckle turned out well, with the meaty part of it doused with a mushroom sauce, leaving its crackling delightfully crispy. There was a generous portion of sauerkraut, and creamy, buttery mashed potato. The meat stayed moist through the roasting, and fell off the bone. The mushroom sauce matched it well. And the price was surprisingly reasonable, at RM32.90 for half a knuckle (RM69.90 for a whole knuckle), which was a fairly large portion. The BBQ Baby back ribs were tender, sticky with the barbeque sauce and lightly sweet. There were four ribs, ample for sharing between two people. They came with the requisite mashed potato and sauerkraut. The ribs were just RM28, and it seemed like everyone was ordering the ribs. The Farmer’s Bratwurst (RM25.90) was very good. The sausage had a bounce and bite about it, and flavourful too. It went well with the sweet onion sauce on the platter. If you are having all that meat, the Smoked salmon & citrus salad (RM25.90) is a healthy diversion. The smoked salmon is served on a bed of lettuce, topped with segments of lemon and grapefruit, and

His cakes are made daily at their Taman Desa site to keep them fresh. Since the day they opened customer’s favourites, like the white truffle scented Le Palladio, or the tangy Passion with its sunshine yellow passion fruit and mango filling have been kept. New cakes are constantly introduced to keep regulars happy. One recent introduction is the L’amer (RM14), a chocoholic’s ambrosia with its tender sponge base wrapped with a smooth bitter chocolate mousse. Match this with a cup of hot tea and it makes a perfect tea-break. For those who prefer fruits with a hint of sweetness, opt for the Alfonso (RM16), a layered delicacy of vanilla hazelnut sponge cake, noisette, praline, mango cremeux and light salted caramel. The hint of praline gives texture to the soft cake while the caramel balances off the tangy yellow mango cream. For some elegant Earl Grey flavours, how about the La Duchesse (RM15)? The bergamot scent is faint and not too overpowering in this Earl Grey infused biscuit and cremeux

that is combined with milk chocolate ganache. In comparison with the other prettier creations, the Printemps (RM16) with its dull green colour is like the ugly stepsister in a fairy tale. However, this turned out to be a favourite purely for it’s chewy texture. The sable Breton base is made with an aromatic almond and sesame dacquioise. The slightly bitter taste of the green tea (matcha) was well balanced with the chocolate. It is featured in the ganache, soft mousseline and the green crumbles that top the cake. One word of caution though, as the café is tiny and only has a few tables. For those seeking a long sojourn with your sweets, you are better off enjoying the French delights in the comfort of your home. You can also order the cakes online at www.lesdeuxgarcons.com. my. A personal favourite is the Quarte Quarts, a rich tasting Marble butter cake.

Euro Deli Restaurant, 41, Jalan 20/11, Damansara Kim, Petaling Jaya. Tel: 03-7726 7495. Open: 10am to 12am daily.

VERY GOOD: Farmer’s bratwurst

Clockwise: Alfonso. A selection of macarons. Printemps. Les Deux Garcons shop front with the tables and chairs. La Duchesse.

SWEET lovers can make a beeline to Les Deux Garcons (The Two Boys in French) to satisfy their cravings. Fronted by Ben Yeong, this patisserie marks his second food and beverage venture. His first was the restaurant Café Café, opened with his partner, Toto Ooi. Before embarking on this venture, Yeong studied French pastry arts for one year under French baking maestro Eric Perez at his pastry school in Bangkok. Last year, the cake shop blazed into the sweet scene with their macarons and cakes. Beginning of this year, they opened a small café nestled between a dentist and a fruit shop in Bangsar. The pristine white space acts as a perfect foil for his jewel-like macarons and cakes. Macarons in various pastel shades come in different flavours including outlandish ones such as wasabi, truffle and olive oil. An all-time favourite is the salted caramel. The macaron has a crispy bite to it that yields to a chewy texture in the middle. Prices for the macaron starts from RM5 for one piece.

black olives. It’s a generous portion of smoked salmon and the sour lemon with the slightly sweet grapefruit and salty olives balanced the rich taste of the salmon. I have to say we came to grief with the Swiss apple pie. It was because it was served cold, topped with cream and a scoop of vanilla ice-cream. It was unbearable to eat, as the pastry became floury and hard with the cold. Later when I asked, I was told that I could have asked for it to be served warm. It was strangely expensive — RM23.90 for a slice! There are dishes on the menu I would go back to try, such as the Bacon pie (Quiche Lorraine), Pork Cordon Bleu, Smoked pork ribs, Iberico pork ribs, and the Potato skin with cheese and bacon. For hefty appetites, there is the Matterhorn burger challenge, an ongoing promotion that was first launched in 2010. You can call up and preorder (at least two days in advance) the 9-inch pork burger (the size of a dinner plate) for RM112++, and if you can finish it within 45 minutes, the burger is free, and you win RM100. So far only three people have managed to win the challenge. The challengers’ photos are pinned up on Euro Deli’s wall of fame.

signature: roast pork knuckle with mushroom sauce

Les Deux Garcons, 36, Jalan Telawi, Bangsar Baru, Kuala Lumpur. Tel: 03-22847833 Open: 12pm to 8pm daily. Crave pays for all its meals and all its reviews are conducted anonymously.

SPECIAL OF THE DAY: BBQ Baby Back ribs

TANGY: Smoked salmon & citrus salad

The interior of the shop.