23 Nov 2012 by Crave Malay Mail

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NOSHING ON NASI LEMAK Cook up this all-time favourite at home

NASI LEMAK (4 SERVINGS)

300g long grain rice 1 ½ teaspoons salt 4 pandan leaves, knotted 370-400ml coconut milk, extracted from 1 grated coconut 1 cucumber 100g ikan bilis (anchovies) 2 hard boiled eggs, halved sambal 125 ml cooking oil spice paste 200g (3 medium) big onions, peeled 1 clove garlic, peeled 2 candlenuts 20 stalks (25g) dried chillies, soaked 8-10 stalks bird-eye chillies 125ml water 2-3 kafﬁr lime leaves, torn 1 teaspoon salt 2-3 tablespoons sugar 1 large onion, peeled and sliced thinly

EDITORIAL NOTE

by Lee Khang Yi

Crave Editor

Even when I’m away, I start craving for my morning fix in the form of a plate of nasi lemak. There is something so appetising about the fragrant rice with a dollop of spicy sambal and crunchy peanuts with anchovies. We hope you’ll take our cue and make your own nasi lemak to discover how easy it is. If you’re feeling lazy, you can be guided on where to eat in the Klang Valley. These places we realise are open throughout the day, hence there’s no excuse to not satisfy that craving. For eating out options, try JP Teres, the swanky new place in the Grand Hyatt Kuala Lumpur. The cafe serves Malaysian food including hawker fare. We do love their old fashioned desserts, that hark back to the good old days, like chiffon cakes and even the iconic ice cream sandwich. There’s also a good Chinese food discovery in Aman Suria called Pin Xiang that Eu Hooi Khaw finds. She’s enraptured with the food there, especially the salted egg yolk long beans, that she reckons she will return for their crabs. She also cooks up a classic Chinese dish, Kung Po chicken with cashews. In addition, we also get a chance to sample the beautiful Burgundy wines of Chanson Pere & Fils, with a Burgundy themed dinner at La Vie En Rose. Email me at khangyi@mmail.com.my for any feedback. Happy eating!

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To prepare rice: Wash the rice in several changes of water until the water runs clear. Drain the rice and place in an electric rice cooker with the salt and pandan leaves. Pour enough coconut milk over the rice to come up 2 cm above the level of the rice. Cook the rice until it is dry or until the cooker button pops up automatically. Use a wooden ladle to loosen the grains. Sprinkle the rest of the coconut milk over the rice and stir to mix evenly with the wooden ladle. Stand for 10 — 15 minutes to allow the rice to absorb the coconut milk. Keep the rice warm. To prepare cucumber: Peel the cucumber or score the sides with a fork. Cut into thick slices. Soak the sliced cucumbers in water and ice cubes. You may place in the refrigerator for up to one hour. Just before serving, drain the cucumbers in a colander. To prepare ikan bilis: Sun dry the ikan bilis in the hot sun for a whole day or two days. Heat oil in a wok over medium to high heat. Place the sun-dried ikan bilis and the oil will start to bubble.Lower the heat and fry until the ikan bilis puffs up

and there is very little bubbles in the oil. Remove and drain on paper towels. Once cool keep in airtight containers. To prepare sambal: Heat the oil in a wok and sauté the ﬁnely ground spice paste until fragrant.Add remaining ingredients and simmer until the sambal is to your liking for consistency. Remove from the heat and store. To assemble: Scoop a portion of rice on a plate covered with a piece of banana leaf. Top with a scoop of sambal, ikan bilis, cucumbers, half hard boiled egg and a piece of ayam goreng kunyit.– Recipe by Debbie Teoh. Photo by Kenneth Lim, Gray Studio.

AYAM G KUN

(4 SER

Taster Comments: The rice is rich tasting with the coconut milk and I like how the grains are all separate. It’s a little tedious with all the sun drying and the sambal but worth it for the home cooked taste.” ALICIA LIM, Housewife

500g chicken, cut into bite pieces 1 heaped tablespoon pounded fresh turmeric or turmeric powder 2 tablespoons cornﬂour 1 teaspoon salt, or to taste 1 teaspoon sugar ¼ teaspoon ground white pepper oil for frying

In a metal bowl, marinate the chicken pieces with the remain ing ingredients except the oil. Keep refrigerated for at least 3 hours, preferably overnight. Heat the oil in a wok over medium heat. Deep fry the chicken pieces until it turns golden yellow in colour. Remove and drain on paper towels. Serve im mediately with the nasi lemak. – Recipe by Debbie Teoh. Photo by Kenneth Lim, Gray Studio.

FRIDAY 23 NOVEMBER 2012

THE MAGIC OF BURGUNDY Steeped in history, Chanson Pere & Fils (Chanson) can trace its origins back to 1750. Their holdings is one of the most prized Burgundy vineyards spanning over 38 hectares that includes a rare monopole Premier Cru vineyard, where the entire vineyard is owned by a single grower. The estate’s prestigious clients include the French philosopher Voltaire and even the Bonaparte family. In 1999, Chanson was purchased by the champagne house Bollinger. According to Chanson Managing Director Gilles de Courcel who was recently in Kuala Lumpur for an Asian tour, the cellars are housed in a bastion in Beaune, the capital city of Burgundy. “The bastion was a military tower built by the King of France, around ﬁve centuries ago in 1520 with thick walls of 8 meters,” he says. Housed within the historical building, there is four ﬂoors of cellars. “There is very beautiful vaulted cellars that have about 3,000 casks,” he says. The cellars are open for wine lovers, by appointment. In Kuala Lumpur, Chanson worked with French restaurant, La Vie En Rose to showcase their wines in a seven-course dinner, concocted by Burgundy-born Chef Michael Cornutrait. The dinner also featured Burgundy

GILLES DE COURCEL

THE VAULTED CELLARS

ingredients in the form of Fallot Burgundy mustard and Epoisse cheese. The dinner started with a classic dish, the Escargots Burgundy-style. The tender snails were delicious with the melted butter, parsley and garlic topping that matched the crisp Chablis Premier Cru Montmains 2008.The wine with citrus notes is made entirely from Chardonnay grapes planted in limestone soil. According to De Courcel, the wine was aged for eight to nine months in oak barrels and steel vats. The Chablis matches well with seafood like the second dish of Spike quenelle with crayﬁsh sauce. Next, it was a Pouilly Fuisse 2008 with intense citrus notes and a touch of honey. This was paired with a Slow cooked pe-

tuna trout with sorrel sauce. The white wine with its well balanced acidity, worked well with the creamy sauce with hints of the acidity of the sorrel. Subsequently, the much anticipated red Burgundies, like the Savigny Dominode Premier Cru 2007 took over the dinner. The bright ruby red wine with its elegant nose and intense aromas of violets, cherries and raspberries complemented the Poached eggs in red wine sauce with trufﬂe and foie gras beautifully. Similarly, the robust Angus beef cheek Bouguignon style with glazed spring vegetables, worked in harmony with the Pommard 2008 with its intense red berries aroma and hint of smoky notes. For the sixth course, it was

an excellent Burgundy cheese board, a trio of luscious specimens from the region, such as the pungent Epoisse, the soft white crusted Brillat Savarin, and the soft rich and sharp Soumatrain. The dark ruby Gevrey Chambertin 2007 with its aromas of red berries, liquorice and a touch of chocolate, was a nice foil to the creamy cheeses. Dinner ended with a Black currant frozen nougat drizzled with Marc de Bourguogue, that is similar to a brandy. According to De Courcel, it contains about 60% alcohol and is similar to Italian grappa.

ESCARGOTS BURGUNDY-STYLE

PANDAN CHIFFON CAKE

NASI AYAM

Housed in the newly minted Grand Hyatt Kuala Lumpur is JP Teres, an all day dining café that serves, all kinds of Malaysian fare including the hawker favourites. JP Teres, where JP stands for Jalan Pinang, is said to serve their chefs’ signature dishes, including family recipes, passed down from generations. The classy restaurant is perfect for overseas guests who want to sample local fare in comfort, our guide t u and not o k c e h i C nas t e g o t suffer the e r to whe d the clock wrath n u o lemak r ital edition. of our ig in our d he link on weather. t n o Click Diners il.com.my www.mma can also peek into the open kitchens, as the chefs

Taster Comments: Delicious and so simple to make at home. Just watch out if you are using fresh turmeric as it tends to stain your hands.” ALICIA LIM, Housewife

ROJAK BUAH

cook their food on satay grills, tandoor ovens and wok stations. As night falls, the outdoor terrace with its greenery and water features makes pleasant dining to chill after a long day. Start the meal with Rojak buah (RM15) or even plump skewers of Satay (RM16 for 6 sticks). What uplifts the fresh fruit salad is the distinct fragrance of torch ginger ﬂower in the shrimp paste sauce. The satay is juicy and you have a choice of beef, lamb and chicken. Equally good was the Nasi ayam (RM22). Here the ﬂuffy ginger rice is cooked with chicken stock, rendering each grain a delicious aroma. Order either the poached chicken or the roasted version, that is served with ginger and chilli dips, and a bowl of soup. Another good eat is the Daging dendeng (RM28), tender

SLOW COOKED OCEAN TROUT WITH SORREL SAUCE

Domaine Chanson wines are distributed by Sunrise Wines & Spirits, Tel:03- 62763993.

MALAYSIAN FAVOURITES

RVINGS)

FOOD bites

GORENG NYIT

THE MALAY MAIL

CHICKEN AND LAMB SATAY

pieces of wok fried marinated beef with chillies that goes well with thick Sayur lodeh (RM15). You can also indulge in Penang char kway teow, Oyster omelette and other hawker eats including an Indian thali meal with a choice of chicken tikka, lamb curry and prawn masala. Leave room for the desserts, as they serve old fashioned cakes, like the tower high ﬂuffy pandan chiffon cake (RM12) drizzled with pandan kaya, served with soft scoop ice

PINEAPPLE TARTS

cream, and tropical fruits like mango. Other ﬂavours are available like chocolate and cherries or vanilla with strawberry. Nostalgia will tug here, as they even serve the ice cream sandwich (RM12), soft bread with your choice of homemade ice cream, shaped in a brick with ﬂavours such as peanut, teh tarik, red bean, coconut and mango. Much attention has been paid to details, in the café, such as freshly squeezed sugarcane juice, and even homemade pineapple tarts (RM8). If you think grandma will turn her nose on these dainty bites, think again as you bite into the delicious buttery crust topped with a generous dollop of pineapple jam. Even your cup of coffee comes with a homemade touch, with a piece of kek batik, a Raya favourite, made with melted chocolate and digestive biscuits. JP Teres, Ground Floor, Grand Hyatt Kuala Lumpur, 12, Jalan Pinang, Kuala Lumpur. Tel: 0321821234. Open: 11.30am to 11pm.

BURGUNDY CHEESE BOARD

BLACK CURRANT FROZEN NOUGAT

FRIDAY 23, novemBER 2012

In the Kitchen

KUNG PO CHICKEN WITH CASHEWS

with Eu Hooi Khaw Those kidney-shaped cashews make a good guilt-free snack if they are not coated with a lot of salt. They have a lower fat content than other nuts and a rich appetising flavour. Threequarters of the fat in cashews is said to be good fat - a mix of monosaturated and polyunsaturated fats, purportedly good for the heart. Cashews are rich in minerals like copper, magnesium and zinc. Throw some cashews into your breakfast cereal and you’ll get enough copper to help with iron absorption. The magnesium in it helps to promote a normal sleep pattern, prevent asthma, migraine and high blood pressure. Cashews, whose scientific name is Anacardium occidentale, belong to the same family as the mango and pistachio nut. The tree is native to the coastal areas of north-eastern Brazil. The Portuguese who invaded Brazil in the 15th century were the first to discover it. Their explorers in the 16th century took the nuts to India and Africa where they are now extensively cultivated. The Portuguese

Mixed Seafood in Assam Sauce

THE MALAY MAIL

1 large chicken thigh, deboned

called the cashew fruit caju, and the tree cajueiro. The nut or seed sticks to the bottom of the cashew apple, which is actually eaten as a delicacy in Brazil and the Caribbean. Cashews are always sold shelled as the interior of the shells contains a caustic resin called cashew balm, which is actually used to make varnishes and insecticides. Even though it is popularly known as a nut, in botanical terms, the nut of the cashew is actually a seed. For the best cashews, choose those with a light tan colour and a mild aroma. You need to avoid those, which are shriveled with defects and any that have a rancid smell. Once you buy the cashews, store them in an airtight container in a cool dark space to avoid oxidation of the oils and it turning rancid. They can also be frozen to extend its shelf life. In culinary terms, cashews make a great addition to salads or just as a snack especially when it is eaten roasted. The Indians use it extensively, adding the whole nuts in their sweets or ground into a paste, as a thickener for curries like kurma.

marinade ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon pepper 1 teaspoon Chinese Shao Xing wine (optional) 7 tablespoons oil 2/3 tablespoon cornflour 50g cashews 2 spring onions, cut into 1cm lengths 3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped finely 10 dried chillies, cut into 1cm Combine the chicken thigh with the marinade and leave for 30 minutes. Heat 5 tablespoons oil in the wok over medium heat. Dust the marinated chicken with corn flour. Pan fry the chicken for about five minutes, or until it is cooked. Drain and remove from the wok. Leave to cool, dice the chicken and set aside. Combine the seasoning in

Fried Long Beans with Salted Egg

Mui Choy Kau Yook

pieces 1 teaspoon Chinese Shao Xing wine (optional) seasoning 1 teaspoon soy sauce, 1 teaspoon oyster sauce 1 teaspoon Chinese black vinegar 1 teaspoon Chinese Shao Xing wine (optional) ground white pepper, to taste salt to taste 2 teaspoons caster sugar 1 tablespoon sesame oil 1/3 teaspoon corn flour 1 tablespoon water a bowl and stir evenly. In a pan, dry fry the cashews over medium high heat until lightly brown. Remove from the heat and set aside. Heat the remaining oil and stir- fry the garlic and dried chillies until they turn dark brown. Add the seasoning, pan-fried chicken, cashews and spring onions; saute over high heat. Remove and serve immediately.

Champagne Spare Ribs

The delectable Braised Chicken with Yam

PLEASURABLE FIND BY Eu Hooi Khaw

PIN Xiang in Aman Suria shouts crabs in its banner within the restaurant, whether it’s cheese baked, sweet and sour, chilli, salted egg yolk or Marmite style. I’m told the salted egg yolk crabs are very popular, but it’s lunchtime, and we were more interested in what other dishes it has to offer. Mui choy kau yook or braised belly pork with preserved vegetables was the special for the day, so we took it. Braised chicken with yam also caught my eye (as does anything with yam!). We also added a Mixed seafood with assam sauce, the Long beans with salted egg, and the Champagne spare ribs which had been recommended. I was interested

too in the First class charcoal roasted chicken that is corn fed but was told it is only available at the weekend. The menu is extensive and I can be tempted to come back a few more times to try some dishes that stand out. As it was, the Mui choy kau yook (RM15) wafted up a delicious aroma that had us diving into the braised tender belly pork sitting atop some mushy and lightly sweet mui choy. The meat fell apart at the bite, and it had soaked in all the lovely flavours of the dark, preserved vegetables. Then the Fried long beans with salted egg (RM15) more than convinced my friend Grace that we had come to the right restaurant. We had stumbled upon it while looking for two other restaurants to have lunch at, and both were closed for the Deepavali holiday. The smell of

Fresh crabs guaranteed at Pin Xiang

deep fried salted egg yolk proved to be irresistible. Each long green strand had been coated completely in thick salted egg yolk mixture and deep fried so that we bit into a light crispy batter. The Braised chicken with yam (RM18) turned out right too. Again there was this appetising aroma arising from the claypot, that came from fried lard bits and dried prawns heaped on the sticky, gooey and absolutely delightful yam. We did not pay as much attention to the chicken cooked with the yam, even though it had contributed the sweet, meaty flavour to the pot. I had ordered the Mixed seafood in assam sauce (RM35) to add a spicy and sour dimension to our lunch. It had all the requisite flavours of an assam curry sauce, being hot and sour, with the

fragrant aromas of the toasted shrimp paste, lemongrass (serai) and torch ginger flower (bunga kantan). Sitting in the sauce were garoupa fish fillets, squid and prawns, together with ladies fingers, long beans, big onions and tomatoes. The Champagne spare ribs (RM28) had been recommended by the captain, who said it was one of the special dishes in the restaurant. The ribs were beautifully presented in a hollowed-out half of a watermelon, surrounded by red watermelon shaped in balls. The sticky, caramelised ribs had hints of Chinese Shao Xing rice wine, but I just wished for a more tender bite with less bones. Some other dishes in the menu stood out, such as the Mongolian style crispy pork knuckle, Pin Xiang fried tilapia with fresh garlic

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(I saw a lot of people ordering this), Mixed Eight Treasure Vegetables that had crispy lotus slices on it, Eggplant braised with pork belly, Choy sam fried with bittergourd, Salted steamed village chicken and Big prawns in two flavours. In future, I would also return for the crabs. The local actor Alan Yun has part ownership of this restaurant. Originally, they served chicken and bbq meats rice, and noodle dishes for lunch but they have since stopped selling these items and decide to focus instead on cooked dishes. Restaurant Pin Xiang, H-18-G, Jalan PJU 1/45, Aman Suria, Petaling Jaya. Tel: 03-78040798. Open: 10.30am -2.30pm, 5.30pm -10.30pm. Bookings are advisable as the restaurant can get quite packed.

Friday NOVEMber 23, 2012 S P E C IAL

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ITâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NASI LEMAK TIME Feast on this favourite at all hours. We track down the best places to get your fix all around clock

AFTERN

MORNING This makes a hearty breakfast to keep you going till midday. Usually ofﬁce workers will pack their favourite meal with their selection before going to work.

Throughout the day, cafes will sell nasi lemak for those w evening, stalls pop up on the roadside for those searchin

BAKERI JOY These hefty homecooked nasi lemak packets contain hard boiled egg and a choice of chicken or sotong. You can also dine in the comfort of the café for nasi lemak, and dishes like Hainanese chicken chop. A packet is RM2.50 while the chicken and sotong variety is RM5 per packet.

NASI LEMAK TANGLIN Opened since 1948, this stall is now run by a third generation who still maintains the recipe as it was. This breakfast staple used to appear in Raya functions by the former Prime Minister, Tun Dr Mahatir. The steamed long grain rice have a light ﬂuffy texture. Come early for the full spread of dishes like the deep fried cow’s lungs served with aromatic shreds of lemongrass, or the spicy sambal sotong. The sambal served with the rice tends to be darker than other stalls with a smokey aroma and balanced sweetness. Even though the

stall sells drinks, opt instead for Stall No. 1’s smooth tea for a satisfying meal. Seating is available in the food court or the outside tables and chairs. The place gets crowded with people who ﬂock to the government clinic across the road. Don’t be surprised if you see people in wheelchairs eating here, as the food court has a footpath for the disabled.

4, Jalan SS24/13, Taman Megah, Petaling Jaya. Tel:0378055188. Open:7am to 6pm (Monday). 7am to 9pm (Tuesday to Sunday).

Gerai 6, Kompleks Makan Tanglin, Jalan Cenderasari, Kuala Lumpur. Open: 7am to 12 noon (Monday to Sunday and public holidays), 4.30pm to 9.30pm (Monday to Friday).

This draw dele grai tast piec with rath side spic coco this

NASI LEMAK RA The breakfast staple is popular with the city folk who flock to this 20-year old stall, for their morning meal before work. The aromatic fluffy rice is steamed the traditional way, in a large wooden bucket. Join the queue of people to select what goodies you want to eat your meal with. There’s a choice of deep fried beef lungs (paru), given a flavour boost with shredded lem-

NASI LEMAK SEPETANG Fronting this busy coffee shop is a Chinese style nasi lemak stall manned by Karen Tee. In addition to nasi lemak, the young lady also sells a small selection of Nonya kuih prepared by her. The rice is fluffy with a tinge of coconut milk. This goes well with thick spicy sambal filled with lots of sweet chopped onions and ikan bilis. The stall prides itself for homestyle dishes, which is popular in the

neighbourhood. Choose between sambal sotong, chicken rendang or the tender wild boar rendang. The sambal sotong tends to finish quickly so get here early to enjoy the tender cuttlefish cooked in the spicy sauce. Restoran Sepetang, 54, Jalan Desa Bakti, Taman Desa, Kuala Lumpur. Open: 7.30am to 11am. Closed on Mondays.

ongrass and ginger, sambal sotong, chicken rendang. The sambal is more sweet rather than spicy and complements the coconut rich rice. For lunch, nasi campur is served with all kinds of cooked dishes including nasi ayam. Stall opposite Wisma RKT, Jalan Raja Abdullah, Kuala Lumpur. Open:6am to 12 noon.

NASI LEMAK PEEL ROAD The area around Peel Road may be changing with the development of Sunway Velocity and the MRT but one thing remains, the good food around Queen Restaurant. This popular night hangout for many is packed with numerous stalls like satay, beef noodles, chee cheong fun and this nasi lemak stall. The concept here is very much like a chap fan stall, as you pick what you want from the array of plastic containers. Expect about a choice of 20 dishes that range from chicken curry, braised soy sauce chicken, wild

boar rendang and fried luncheon meat, Our gripe is their less than stellar coconut rice since poor quality rice is used. Instead of the long ones. The short broken ones just don’t have the same effect despite its hint of coconut milk. Prices are reasonable, about RM4.50 for nasi lemak with wild boar rendang and luncheon meat. The stall also serves tong sui and drinks. Stall opposite Carrefour, Jalan Peel, Kuala Lumpur. Open: 4pm to 8pm.

Just is th whi The coc abs Inst boil nas a sp bilis bits

FRIDAY 23 NOVEMBER 2012

NOON

who prefer it for a mid-day break. Towards the ng for an early dinner.

THE MALAY MAIL

EVENING TILL LATE Night revelers or those looking for a second meal for the night will hang out at these places that open till late.

NASI LEMAK SELERA JAYA 223

VILLAGE PARK RESTAURANT

s super busy restaurant ws in the crowds with its ectable nasi lemak. Each in is rich with a coconut milk te. Accompany this with a ce of fried chicken, aromatic h herbs. Our only gripe is the her insipid sambal on the e, which is neither sweet nor cy. Nevertheless the fragrant onut rice keeps drawing us to s restaurant. Other good eats

include the nasi dagang, that sells out fast in the morning. The restaurant also serves lontong, cooked dishes, noodles and toast.

Hidden within the Petaling Jaya industrial area is this food court that literally goes on all night. Within the food court, two rival nasi lemak stalls ﬁght for the customers’ appetites. You will either spot Nasi Lemak Suri in blue or Nasi Lemak Yatie in red emblazoned on the nasi lemak packets placed on your table, depending on where you sit. For a full repertoire of their dishes, visit them at their respective stalls.

The selection at Nasi Lemak Suri is more comprehensive while Nasi Lemak Yatie only offers a few dishes. Between the two stalls, Nasi Lemak Yatie wins on its freshness, as packets are made as and when supply dwindles. Hence you may encounter aromatic piping hot rice, when you open up the paper and banana leaf package. Even the sambal has distinct differences, as the one served at Suri is spicy, while Yatie’s

Just a little off the busy Kampung Baru and near the Dewan Sulaiman sports club, is this slightly rundown place. It is set up like a canteen, where you pick up your items from each station, before you settle for your meal at the cash till. The stall specialises in small packets of nasi lemak, with spicy sambal and a sliver of hard boiled egg for 80 sens. While the rice is not top notch, it’s the vast selection of dishes that people ﬂock here. Opt for grilled

aromatic fried chicken, fresh from the wok. Aside from fried chicken, they also serve fried quails. Pick from all kinds of cooked curries and vegetables for a substantial meal. Stall at the side of the roadside, Lorong Syed Putra Kiri, Robson Heights, Off Federal Highway, Kuala Lumpur: Open 3pm to 2am.

Nasi Lemak Yatie, Gerai No. 6, Jalan 223, Petaling Jaya. Tel: 012-3717007. Open: 5pm to 5am; Nasi Lemak Suri, Gerai No. 1, Jalan 223, Petaling Jaya. Tel:012-2381261. Open: 24 hours.

NASI LEMAK CT GARDEN

5, Jalan SS21/37, Damansara Uptown, Petaling Jaya, Tel:0377107860. Open: 7am to 8pm (Monday to Saturday), 7am to 6pm (Sunday and public holiday).

NASI LEMAK DAUN PISANG ROBSON HEIGHTS

t off the busy highway, his small tucked in stall ch is frequented by locals. e rice is ﬂuffy with a light conut milk taste that sorbs the spicy sambal. tead of the usual hard led eggs, each portion of si lemak is served with prinkle of crunchy ikan s, peanuts and omelette s. The appeal here is the

version is sweeter. Both packets come with half boiled egg, peanuts and ikan bilis, for RM1.50 per packet. You can supplement the meal with grilled otak otak from the nearby stalls or even some fortifying sup kambing.

NASI LEMAK SAN PENG This place is popular with chefs and night owls who prefer something substantial for a late night supper. Come early and there’ll be a queue. The selection is rather limited to a few dishes, such as curry chicken, pan-fried lap cheong (waxed Chinese sausage) and deep-fried luncheon meat. You can also ask for fried long beans, and curry potatoes with your rice. While the rice is not aromatic, the sambal is spicy and slightly numbing to the

tongue. Prices here tend to be not cheap though, as a laden nasi lemak with chicken curry, potatoes and luncheon meat, with a drink can set you back for RM10. Aside from the nasi lemak stall, there are stalls in the vicinity that are peddling fresh fruit juice, chee cheong fun and fried kway teow. Stall behind KK Mart, Off Jalan San Peng, Kuala Lumpur. Open: 8.30pm to 2.30am. Closed on Sundays.

otak-otak hot from the grill. You can also choose from various curries with quail eggs, or even potato crisps. A must is the sambal tempe, crunchy and sweet with a coating of spicy sambal. The stall offers a large indoor and outdoor space to dine in comfort. You can also get an impressive night view of the KLCC Petronas Towers. Jalan Dewan Sultan Sulaiman, Kampung Baru, Kuala Lumpur. Open: 6pm to 4am.