2 November 2012 by Crave Malay Mail

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BEST BRITISH BITES The Delicious Groupâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Steve Allen shares recipes from the Taste of Britain promotion

24 COVER PICTURE RECIPE

RHUBARB CRUMBLE WITH CUSTARD (4 servings) rhubarb mix 375g rhubarb, cut into small pieces 425g green apples, peeled, cored and cut into small pieces 1 ½ tablespoons brown sugar 1 tablespoon water 5cm (42g) young ginger, peeled and grated crumble 150g plain flour 100g butter 80g brown sugar custard 100ml milk 100ml UHT whipping cream 5 egg yolks 50g caster sugar

Note: Grab your rhubarb at Bangsar’s Village Grocer.

To prepare rhubarb mix: Place all ingredients in a pan. Slowly cook stirring continously on a low heat for about 30- 40 minutes or until the rhubarb and apple has broken down. Divide among the ramekins and leave on the side.

Taster Comments:

To prepare crumble: Preheat oven to 170C. Mix all of the crumble ingredients together and lay on a tray. Bake for 15 minutes, or until it is golden brown. Remove from the oven and set aside.

whole combination of the

To prepare custard: Bring the milk and cream in a pot to the boil. Whisk the yolks and sugar together in a bowl, and slowly add the hot milk and cream to the eggs. Place back on the heat and slowly cook until it comes to boil. Chill on an ice bath before serving. To serve: Preheat oven to 180C. Sprinkle the baked crumble on top of the rhubarb. Bake for 5 - 8 minutes, or until it is hot. Serve with the custard on the side. – Recipe by Steve Allen.

GRAB A TASTE OF BRITAIN For a true British taste, pop over to a Delicious outlet for Cornish pasty, lamb cobbler, steak and onion pudding, and the strange sounding Cock-a-leekie soup. The British classics are by E&O’s Group Creative Chef Steve Allen. “We want to offer Delicious customers something different that they don’t get to eat every day and what a better way to start with some old British dishes,” he says. Expect eight dishes for the promotion, some which have been tweaked to local tastes. For instance, the steak pud-

ding was originally made with oysters and kidneys but this version uses steak and onions, encased in a soft pudding. This dish is a personal favourite of Allen, who first started making it at Boodles Gentleman’s Club in London and a simple one made with beef, onion and Worchestershire sauce. Other dishes include the Cornish pasty stuffed with a hearty beef, onion, potato and swede filling, a creamy fish pie with salmon, sole, prawns and peas, fish fingers, the Scottish cock-a-leekie soup that

contains rice and the lamb, carrot and rosemary cobbler. For those who miss their classic British desserts, Allen also serves a delicious Rhubarb crumble accompanied with creamy custard. For a lighter fruity taste, go for the Summer pudding and cream that is chockfull of strawberries, blackberries and raspberries. The Taste of Great Britain promotion is available at all the Delicious outlets up to November 30. Prices range from RM14.90 onwards.

It took me some time to ﬁnd the rhubarb but it was worth it. I love the slightly tart rhubarb with the warm ginger taste, mixed with the crumble and the luscious cream. Deﬁnitely a recipe to keep for special occasions.” RACHEL MAH, student

LAMB, CARROT AND ROSEMARY COBBLER (4 servings)

rosemary cobbler 350g self-raising flour 4 tablespoons chopped rosemary 1/3 teaspoon salt 200g unsalted butter, cut into cubes juice of 1 lemon 3 tablespoons water 1 egg, beaten lamb stew 600g lamb shank salt and pepper, to taste 1 ½ tablespoons Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce ½ tablespoon butter ½ tablespoon olive oil 1 medium sized (50g) onion, peeled and cut into chunks 1 garlic clove, peeled and chopped finely 60g carrots, peeled and cut roughly ½ stick (60g) celery, cut into small pieces ½ (30g) leek, cut into small pieces 1 sprig rosemary 2 tablespoons tomato paste 1 litre water

To prepare cobbler: Preheat oven to 180C. Combine the ﬂour and rosemary together in a bowl. Rub in the butter until it forms breadcrumbs. Make a well in the middle, and mix in the lemon juice and water. Roll into balls. Place on a lightly oiled tray and glaze with the beaten egg. Bake for 30 minutes, or until surface is golden brown. Remove from the oven and leave to cool on a wire rack. To prepare stew: Preheat oven to 180C. Marinate lamb shank with salt, pepper and Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce for 30 minutes. Bake the marinated steaks in a casserole for 25 minutes, or until it is slightly brown. Remove and set aside. Heat olive oil and butter in a large casserole. Sauté the onion till browned. Add celery, garlic, carrot and rosemary; saute until brown. Add tomato paste and brown a little. Add the water and the lamb shank, and bring to boil. Braise for 25 minutes or till lamb is tender. Remove the lamb shank and pick the meat off the bone. Strain the cooking liquid into the pot, simmer the sauce until thick. To serve: Preheat oven to 180C. Pour the lamb stew with the vegetables into a bowl. Top with cobblers and reheat for 10 minutes in oven. Remove and serve immediately. – Recipe by Steve Allen.

Taster Comments:

The hearty lamb stew worked well with the crumbly cobbler especially during these rainy nights. I liked how easy it was to make the cobbler and it has a ﬁne delicate crumb that is easily achieved.”

RACHEL MAH, student

EDITORIAL NOTE by Lee Khang Yi

Crave Editor

British classics has a soft spot with me, since I studied abroad in good old England. A big favourite was the rhubarb crumble, a must try from our recipes or just pop over to Delicious. Other good eats include the Italian promotion at DoubleTree by Hilton Kuala Lumpur, and newly opened Kingyo for top notch Japanese fare. There’s also a special promotion for readers, a chance to get complimentary house wine, if they dine at Celestial Court. Email me at khangyi@mmail.com.my with any feedback. Enjoy the eating!

ADVERTISING SALES Rajan Gopal Senior Manager, Direct & Classifieds Direct line: 03 74951282 rajan@mmail.com.my

FRIDAY 2 NOVEMBER 2012

THE MALAY MAIL

ITALIAN ADVENTURE

Andrew Blundy The English chef is now at the DoubleTree by Hilton Kuala Lumpur up to next January to shake up their food and beverage scene. Originally from the Hertfordshire region, the self-taught chef started from the tender age of 15 at a Greek restaurant. He also cut his teeth in various places such as an Italian trattoria, a boutique hotel in Somerset and numerous exotic spots including Bangladesh, Malawi and Egypt. Tosca’s “Bring Me Food” promotion is just the tip of the iceberg. In the near future, expect Chef Blundy to introduce mini doughnuts, and English pub classics in the hotel’s outlets. Who inspires you most as a cook? It comes from many sources, first my grandmother who was a sensational cook. I always looked forward to visiting her for tea. Then, my first job in a Greek restaurant called Diomedies, inspired me to pursue this career as I needed different flavours and a precision of seasoning to create consistency. Later in my career, it has been Thomas Keller from the French Laundry, who compels me to be a better cook with attention to detail and a finesse of flavours. What is your favourite utensil in the kitchen? My knives. Sharp, Japanese and ridiculously expensive. What is the most memorable meal you have ever eaten? Sitting at the side of the road on the way to Chittagong in Bangladesh eating fresh figs from the tree, roti from the

little man on the side of the street and some fresh yogurt bought that morning. What’s the story with the Michelin guide? I was working in The Fox at Broughton Gifford, a country pub and it was ticking all the boxes as we were raising our chickens and pigs and using locally sourced cheese and milk. The whole thing was just done for the joy of it and not the accolades. Just by chance, one day, the manager comes and introduces me to a man from the Michelin guide, who I sit down and talk to. With the guide, they don’t say whether you have it and it is about consistency. We knew we will not get a star for the ﬁrst year. Moreover, we weren’t serving poncy food but hearty pub food like Shepherd’s pie. Later we found out, the pub was voted as Inspector’s favourite and one to watch in the 2010/2011 Michelin guide.

THIN CRUST PIZZAS

GRILLED QUAIL SALAD

SLOW COOKED BRAISED LAMB SHANK OSSO BUCCO STYLE

NICOISE SALAD WITH TUNA TARTARE AND LASAGNA AL FORNO

Enjoy a hearty table of Italian food at Tosca, DoubleTree by Hilton Kuala Lumpur with its “Bring Me Food” promotion. The fun and adventurous concept is the brainchild of Chef Andrew Blundy who sums it up as “you let us know how much you want to spend and what you don’t want to eat.” The Modern Italian promotion means true family-style dining like the Italians, with eight to nine courses, from RM80++ per person. “It is making people happy by offering good food and wine, “ says

Chef Blundy. Standout items we sampled in the media tasting included a comforting tortellini in brado or handmade chicken stuffed pasta with egg broth and green pea puree, thin crusted pizzas with smoked salmon, calamari and clams or the interesting starter of Nicoise salad with tuna tartare and mollet quail eggs. Other favourites include the Lasagna al Forno that uses a tender beef ragout cooked from a seventeenth century recipe, and the slow cooked Braised

lamb shank osso bucco style, with comforting braised vegetables and polenta. These dishes can also be ordered from an a la carte Modern Italian menu. On November 2, you can enjoy a special five-course Ruffino wine dinner for RM220++ per person. Tosca diners who choose this Modern Italian promotion also get a chance to win a return flight ticket for two to Milan from Etihad Airways. The prize also includes 3 days 2 nights accommodation at the Double-

Tree by Hilton Milan. For each RM350 spent, the diners who order from the Modern Italian promotional menu can qualify for one entry. The promotion is organised in partnership with Etihad Airways, DoubleTree by Hotel Milan, and CIMB Bank Berhad. The promotion ends November 30.

SIGNATURE BLACK COD

CRISPY KING PRAWN

PAN FRIED LAMB CUTLET

Tosca, DoubleTree by Hilton, The Intermark, 348 Jalan Tun Razak, Kuala Lumpur, Tel: 0321727272/7614.

CELESTIAL COURT SPECIAL FRIED RICE

CELESTIAL DELIGHTS From October onwards, the Celestial Court has introduced an assortment of new a la carte dishes to join its menu of Cantonese dishes. The dishes was created by the restaurant’s Assistant Chinese Chef, Tommy Chong, formerly from Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur’s Lai Po Heen. His emphasis is on healthier choices that is good for the body. For instance, the Clear chicken soup is good for building stamina with the use of American ginseng. The delicious broth is double boiled with black chicken, Chinese herbs such as yuk chok, scallops and red dates, together with the ginseng. You sip and enjoy each drop of the fortifying

broth from dainty cups, while your soup is kept warm over a flame. Another classy presentation is the Signature black cod served with rice broth, wolfberries and spinach. The cod fish is cooked to flaky perfection, while the porridge is high in fibre and helps lower the cholesterol levels. For a fusion twist, the Pan fried lamb cutlet is a delicious choice with its rosemary aroma. The lamb is finished with a sweet sauce made from A1, HP and Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce. It is served with honey beans and shredded onions. Even the quintessential butter prawns is given a twist as the Crispy king prawn is served

with corn flakes, shredded egg in butter flavor. Despite it being a deep fried dish, the kitchen’s chefs reduces the oil residue by using the right temperature to deep fry the seafood. For a hearty bite, the Celestial Court special fried rice uses a mix of brown rice, glutinous rice and barley grains. Dig deep below the aromatic bonito flakes to discover chicken bak kwa, scallops, mushrooms and chicken pieces in the rice. The pork-free restaurant’s new a la carte dishes range from RM30 onwards. In conjunction with the introduction of the new a la carte dishes, readers of this article are entitled to a special promotion whereby a

table of four diners can enjoy a complimentary bottle of house wine (red or white) by ordering one or two of the new a la carte dishes. The promotion is only valid for one month from the date of the article and to qualify, you also need to present an original copy of this article to the restaurant. If you prefer, the bottle of wine can also be replaced with fruit juices. Celestial Court, Sheraton Imperial Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur. Tel:03-27179900. Open daily: 12 noon till 2.15pm (Mondays to Saturdays), 10am to 2.30pm (Sundays and public holidays), 6.30pm to 10.30pm.

FRIDAY 2 november 2012

THE MALAY MAIL

TOP QUALITY JAPANESE FOOD TEPPANYAKI BEEF TENDERLOIN

SOFT KANI MAKI

zaru soba

mini dorayaki

WHEN the Equatorial Kuala Lumpur closed its doors this April, it meant an end of an era. The grand dame with its 30 plus years in the hospitality line had fed us well with its Japanese, Western and Chinese eateries. Since I was young, each meal here had made its mark on my own taste buds. Since it started, Kampachi was renowned as the place for exquisite Japanese food. Strangely enough, its flagship restaurant in the hotel, upheld quality much better than their sister outlets that had sprout-

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t s u J ed open

SASHIMI MORIAWASE

ed around town in recent years. Hence, I was excited to discover that a band of Kampachi’s old staff had opened up their own place. Housed in the refreshed Life Centre, it was a hop and skip away from the old site. Just like how Kampachi took its name from the amberjack fish, this place’s name Kingyo, means Japanese for goldfish. On the surface, when you look at the menu, the food here is not trying to be clever or innovative. Instead, it is just upholding fine Japanese

ASSORTED TEPPANYAKI VEGETABLES

cuisine. Your first inclination that food here is a little different is in its exceptionally fresh sashimi. Our sashimi moriawase (RM220) was a selection of andabura bozu (butter fish), salmon, hamachi (yellow tail), maguro (tuna) and toro (tuna belly). The thickly sliced pieces were excellent, especially the velvety hamachi. The Soft kani maki (RM24 for half roll, RM48 for a full roll) is a substantial bite and packed with goodies that include soft shell crab and ebiko (flying fish roe). The

roll stands a head above the rest in town, since each bite unfurls the sweet taste of the crispy deep-fried soft shell crab. On the side, they serve these addictive ginger pickles. One bite is never enough of these delicate pickles that I can finish them in a jiffy and hanker for more. Bovine lovers will appreciate the top skills of the teppanyaki chefs. Our teppanyaki beef tenderloin (gyuniku) (200 grams for RM88) was perfectly cooked. Nibble on each tender cube lightly coated with

the delicious butter soy sauce and the deep fried garlic slices on the side. An assortment of vegetables cooked teppanyaki style is also served with the beef. The cold Zaru soba (RM26) is the perfect way to end our meal, as we slurp down the al dente strands tossed in the dipping sauce, anointed with wasabi, chopped spring onions and a raw quail egg. As I nibble on my off-menu order of mini dorayaki pancakes (RM1.50 per pair), filled with peanut paste or red bean

paste, I feel waves of nostalgia and happiness with the familiar taste. Commensurate with its top quality, prices here are a little higher than the usual Japanese spots. The place also offers course meals, which range from RM108++ to RM158++. Kingyo Japanese Restaurant, Lot G-05 & G-05A, Ground Floor, Life Centre, 20, Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur. Tel:03-21637888. Open daily: 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm.

MALAY MEMORIES CHICKEN CURRY

ASAM IKAN PEDAS

SAMBAL TERONG

THE SPREAD AND SIMPLE INTERIOR OF THE CAFE

BEEF RENDANG

SAYUR MANIS MASAK LEMAK

I THOUGHT Kafe Bawang Merah’s Asam ikan pedas was the best I had eaten in a long time, and with the memory of the hot and sour curry, one day we drove there. Located across the Sime Darby Medical Centre, the café serves Malay dishes with home cooked tastes. Since we had arrived too early; the curry had not been brought out yet. So instead we tried different dishes from the spread. Every now and then, we would pop up from our seats to see what else had been brought out for the spread. I was very happy with the Sayur lodeh, which came out steaming hot, with all the lovely flavours of dried chilli, turmeric, dried prawns and lemongrass in the mild curry, filled with pieces of tempeh, carrot, long beans, cabbage and glass noodles. Add cubes of compressed rice cakes (nasi impit), a dollop of sambal, and it morphs into a delicious Lontong, which I ate in another visit. We liked the Sambal terong too, large pieces of pre-fried eggplant cooked in a lightly hot and sweet sambal sauce. The Chicken curry was surprisingly good, with all the right nuances of spice and chilli hotness. The potatoes in it

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BY Eu Hooi Khaw

were soft and powdery, soaking in the essence of the curry. We also liked the Rendang beef, with the pieces of tender meat nudging each other in the gravy redolent of fragrant herbs, chilli and coconut milk. As for vegetables, unlike other places, they are not overcooked here. We have had a plate of crunchy long beans stir fried with onions, garlic and carrot, and bittergourd that stayed firm cooked in sambal. We also liked the Sayur manis masak lemak in coconut milk with ikan bilis and hints of turmeric. However, the Curry beef with young nangka was strangely sour and the Beef with bamboo shoots (rebung) was rather stinky. Towards the end of our meal, we tried the Asam pedas and it was a well- balanced hot and tart curry, with ikan tenggiri and ladies fingers, just as I remembered it. The café also does a selection of fried fish but I would avoid the fried kembung. I had it once and it tasted hard andn woody, like it had been dou-

ble-fried. I scored better with the fried ikan keli (catfish) with sweet delicate meat that went well with a coarse green sambal. The prices are quite standard: chicken dishes are from RM3.50 (depending on the portion), rendang is RM3.50, Asam pedas Ikan is RM3, vegetable dishes from RM1.50, sayur lodeh and lontong RM4, and the white rice RM1.20. Apart from having rice and a selection from the spread, you could also have various noodles such as Laksa asam, Laksa Johor, Mee rebus, Mee kari or Mee udang, depending on what’s available on that day. Prices range from RM4.50 to RM6 for the noodles. The air-conditioned café also serves breakfast of Nasi lemak, Nasi goreng and Fried kway teow. Tea is served from 3pm onwards, where there is a selection of Malay kuih such as Onde onde, Cekodok pisang, Pulut durian, and various sweet broths (bubur manis). Kafe Bawang Merah, 12A, Jalan SS12/1B (Opposite SJMC), Subang Jaya, Selangor, Tel: 03-5621 6100. Open daily: 9am to 10.30pm. There is also an outlet in Subang Parade.

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THE SCOOP ON BANGSAR

The shops around Bangsar Baru is awakening to another food odyssey

FRIDAY 2, november 2012

FETA BAKED TOMATO SALAD

THE MALAY MAIL

BEEF TORTELLINI

Headed by Ann Lee and Judith Sakata, Nosh is a casual fun 40seater eatery that opened its doors on October 27. The menu consists of a mix of Western dishes, with a few Asian ones thrown in. For lazy weekends, they serve brunch items. In the kitchen, expect handmade pasta from their kitchen, as the chef was formerly from Tatto, an Italian eatery in Kuala Lumpur.

SALMON MANGO RHAPSODY

I GAMBERETTI NEL VINO BLANCO

ROASTED PERCIK

The standout is their freshly made Beef tortellini (RM34). Unlike those measly bites you get in other places, these chunky heavenly morsels stuffed with braised beef cheek are simply addictive. The Italian noona (grandmother) would approve of the hearty bites served with the creamy sauce with mascarpone. Using fresh pappardelle pasta, the Pesto basilico (RM21) is good for those who prefer a less pungent pesto. For a more substantial meal, add RM6 for grilled chicken. Catering to the Asian tastebuds, the Roasted percik (RM29) makes a hefty meal with its roast chicken thigh smothered with a mild coconut cream sauce. The chicken is served with a delicious fluffy couscous tossed with herbs and a tangy salad. PESTO BASILICO

For greens, look towards the simple Feta baked tomato salad (RM23), with its mélange of rocket leaves, sweet Roma tomatoes and crumbly feta cheese. For a fruit-laden salad, the Salmon mango rhapsody (RM28) works well with the mixed leaves, salmon and mango combination. The salads, work more like sides to your main meal, and can’t qualify as substantial one-dish meals. Another interesting appetizer is the I gamberetti nel vino bianco (RM32), prawns sautéed in olive oil with garlic and white wine.

Judith’s forte is the sweet ending, having worked in the pastry kitchen for YTL Hotels and Properties, a love she shares with Ann who used to be from the cake makers Just Heavenly. Chocolate lovers will be bowled over with her wicked Valrhona heaven (RM32), a sinful platter of molten chocolate lava cake, tart au chocolat and luscious chocolate ice cream. Judith only uses French chocolate Valrhona in her sweet creations. 7, Jalan Telawi 3, Bangsar Baru, Kuala Lumpur. Tel:03-22013548. Closed on Mondays. Open: 11.30am to 11pm (Tuesday to Friday). 9.30am to 11pm (Saturday and Sunday)

THE MALAY MAIL

FRIDAY 2, november 2012

MELBOURNE PEKING DUCK

OPENING SOON In the next few months, Bangsar is expected to open more new eateries as other businesses vacate the place. A quick walk around the neighbourhood indicates there is an air of change. Some eateries are still in the works, such as a Korean coffee chain, set to open on Jalan Telawi 2 in December. We round up a few that are set to open soon.

Since this eatery opened its doors on September 18, diners are willing to brave the one flight of stairs to try their signature Peking duck. The Down Under reference is due to the chef, who used to reside in Melbourne. The chef is said to have learnt his trade there. Unlike the quack from China, this version is a tad different. Firstly, the 2.5kg duck has a light brown crispy skin, a shade less than the dark brown ones we often see. This could possibly mean less sugar in its marinade hence the lighter caramelised look. Instead of cutting just the skin like other restaurants, this version is roughly cut up together with a thin layer of meat. What nails its difference is the pillow soft pancakes. Unlike those floury pancakes that often accompany the duck, these wrap have a soft and almost eggy texture. However, they’re not paper thin. In order to counteract you getting one chunk of pancake, you are advised to place your spring onion, cucumber, sauce and duck meat on the three

THE SOFT PANCAKE FOLDED

SIMPLE SET UP IN THE RESTAURANT

o’clock side versus the middle. The pancake is then folded like a parcel rather than rolled. The duck can be ordered with a choice of two sets. The RM78++ set consists of the duck with 16 pancakes and the accompaniements, the shredded duck meat fried with bean sprouts and a soup. The salted vegetable soup is said to use the duck’s carcass. However, there’s not much taste of the duck within the broth that is instead boosted up by the assorted tomatoes, salted vegetable and tofu in it. The other set for RM88++ is a more substantial meal, as the bean sprouts is replaced with your choice of carbohydrates, whether it is silky hor fun noodles, meehoon or good old rice. The restaurant also serves other cooked dishes but its star dish is still the crispy duck and soft pancakes.

Bringing the French ooh-lala to Bangsar is this place themed as a boulangerie, bistro and bar a vin. The breads are said to baked using traditional methods, with natural yeast cultivated from local fruits instead of your traditional yeast. Expect rustic style breads, tarts, danishes and that French classic, croissants. The traditional bistro will serve hearty French food in a simple warm atmosphere. For the bar a vin, French for wine bar, light small bites will be available with your choice of wine. The place is said to be the brainchild of a couple, one part is French and another local, who recently returned to Malaysia. Both are first timers in the food and beverage industry. It’s set to open by the first week of November. 24G, Jalan Telawi 2.

24-1, Jalan Telawi 3, Bangsar Baru, Kuala Lumpur. Tel:0322021588. Closed on Mondays. Open:11am to 3pm, 6pm to 10pm.

Three Little Pigs and the Big Bad Wolf The non-halal eatery fits right into the space that was previously occupied by Country Farm Organics in the mall. The name was chosen for its whimsy nature and it is designed as a family oriented spot with a casual menu. One of the owners also runs a ramen franchise in Pavilion Kuala Lumpur. It targets to open by November 15. Lot G1A, Grd Floor, Bangsar Village I, Jalan Telawi 1. CRISPY LIGHT GOLDEN CRISPY DUCK, SLICED WITH ITS MEAT AND SKIN

Milk & Butter Taking over Woods Macrobiotics old slot, this café is said to offer Western fusion dining choices. Currently nothing is confirmed but there will be pastries, breads and sandwiches also sold on the premises. The place is fronted by people who are beginners in the food and beverage industry. Expect it to open for business late November. 25, Jalan Telawi 2.