magazine issue 5

MAGAZINE CRB

Issue N°5

GLOBAL SKINCARE How multi-cultural beauty is redefining and reshaping the skincare market

THE BIG TREND

FORECAST

Techno-driven. Generation now.

Digital disruptors. Power shift.

the FUTURE FORWARD Big houses VS Indie brands, breakthrough science, instant gratification, who to follow on instagram, green cosmeceuticals, the “IT” ingredients right now

Global leader in High Performance Skin Care for the past 30 years.

CRB provides Swiss quality and breakthrough skin care innovations to the most prestigious brands all over the world.

M O N TRE U X

PA RI S

MI LA N O

N EW YORK

SUZ HOU

www.crbcosmetics.ch - www.intercos.com

SEOU L

CRB M A G A Z I N E

CONTENT N°5 MARKET

BEAUTY 16

Global Beauty

Multi-cultural beauty is redefining and reshaping the skincare market

The radical warrior spirit of the now

22

The big trend forecast

The Skincare Edit

How the market will evolve and how new technologies are remodelling the beauty industry

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Big houses VS Indie brands

An analysis of the power shift

6

Editor’s letter

8

Beauty Spotlight

13

The trending new products and ingredients

Photographer : Julien Palmilha (www.cyclo.ch) Stylist : Marie Revelut Model : Tiphaine @ square agency Hair & Make-up artist : Francis Ases Photo assistant : Brian Walker Lights : Elinchrom

CULTURE

Editor in Chief

SIMONE GIBERTONI General Manager CRB simonegibertoni@intercos.it

Art Director

AMANDA BÜHLER Digital Communication & graphic designer amanda.buhler@crbcosmetics.ch

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Say hello to HENRY

The influencer of all Millennials and the gatekeepper to the luxury market

44

History of Beauty

An overview of the beauty trends evolving over one hundred years

48

What’s now?

Who to know and follow on Instagram

Contributing Editors

AIKO ANGIN-ITO, INTERCOS Global Strategic Marketing Director AikoAnginIto@intercos.it STEPHANIE MANISCALCO Director Business Development USA StephanieManiscalco@intercos.it GILONNE CAMU Strategic Marketing Manager EMEA gilonne.camu@crbcosmetics.ch GABRIELLA COLUCCI, VITALAB Chief Executive Officer gcolucci@arterrabio.it CLAUDIA ZAPPELLI, VITALAB Project Manager claudiazappelli@vitalabactive.com CLAIRE CUNHA Freelance writer

SCIENCE 32

Breakthrough Science The secret to anti-ageing

34

Out of the Lab

36

Health conscious

Instant gratification: the camera-ready products Green cosmeceuticals; new trend on the market

On THESKINCAREBLOG.COM Looking for the latest news on market surveys and beauty breakthroughs? Visit www.theskincareblog.com

CRB S.A Route du Verney 7, 1070 Puidoux / Switzerland - admin@crbcosmetics.ch - +41 (0)21 946 00 00

EDITOR’S LETTER

EDITOR’S

letter

We embrace this new year with excitement as the cosmetic industry undergoes change.

The REVOLUTION is on FULL SPEED, driven by technology, digital opportunities and new players on the market who bring a breath of fresh air to the entire environment in which brands operate.

The boom of social media has given rise to a NEW way of communicating, a BLURRING approach that has transformed the dynamic of an industry that was stuck in traditional ways.

As we inch away from our comfort zone, the MILLENNIALS guide us towards a NEW ERA, where the playing field has been levelled and indie brands are now as compelling as the bigger players. The beauty business needs to RE-INVENT ITSELF and REEVALUATE as adaptation is the key to future longevity.

Thus, in this issue, we focus on upcoming trends to identify which challenges brands will see on this year’s horizon.

Simone Gibertoni 6

CRB Magazine issue N°5

C R B BEAUTY

THE beauty REPORT

Defying gravity. Multi-masks. Anti-urban dust.

The radical warrior spirit of the now is set to take over the beauty world.

CRB Magazine issue N°5

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BEAUTY SPOTLIGHT

THE ANTI-AGEING CLAIM:

DEFYING GRAVITY

CRB INSIDE, left to right: GRAPHIC DESIGNER, gravity fighter face and jaw cream.

GRAPHIC DESIGNER, zero gravity serum. ULTIMATE COLLECTION, lifting serum.

WHY ?

[

Although these claims are no breakthrough news on the market, brands have recently been tapping into this category with a new approach and cuttingedge technology to back it up. For instance, Dior’s recent launch Multi–Perfection Creme Universal Texture comes with research focusing mainly on gravity. Indeed, Dior states that the gravitational pull can cause our skin to drop by as much as four millimetres in 20 years.

WHO ?

glamglow’s gravitymud firming mask

Clarins Restorative Remodelling Serum

Estee Lauder’s New Dimension Shape Serum

M.A.C

Anti- sagging, re-plumping, gravity-defying, 3D dimension lifts and reshaping have become the new anti-ageing “IT” claims that brands are communicating.

And they should be as a survey from Nielsen, dated March 2015, found that consumers are ready to pay more money for products related to skin firming, ranking in the top 5 of “willing to pay more money for”.

TREND ORIGIN

[

The past decade has brought remarkable breakthroughs in fighting wrinkles, pigmentation and fine lines, but youthfulness is not only in the texture of the skin, it is also a question of shape – and gravity. And brands have been emphasising this for a few years now, but this year the focus seems to be shifting even more clearly.

GRAVITY WILL LIKELY BE

MARKETED AS THE KEY TO ANTI-AGEING. HOW?

PHOTOGRAPH BY GUY AROCH / TRUNK ARCHIVE 8

CRB Magazine issue N°5

The anti-ageing category is thus broadening to a more 360° answer. We are not merely tackling fine lines and skin texture anymore, we are preventing the skin from succumbing to the effects of gravity and encouraging skin elasticity to stay strong. And consumers are responding to these claims and understanding the concerns. With age, fluids held around the jawline and a gradual loss of tissue elasticity, force the face’s shape to lose definition. New ingredients are now available to refill in a non-surgical manner, so that skin looks more plump and voluminous.

They help boost blood circulations, encourage collagen production and help lift, plump and define contours for a firmer appearance. Other ingredients work as lymphatic drainers to change the shape of the cheekbones and add definition. Whatever the recipe, these gravity defying creams are the next big thing to get V structures when things start going a bit pear-shaped.

BEAUTY SPOTLIGHT

WHO ?

Fresh’s Black Tea Firming Overnight Mask

Erno Laszlo’s Hydra-Therapy Memory Sleep Mask

Body Shop’s Drops Of Youth Bouncy Sleeping Mask

THE NEW RITUAL:

“

Nighttime creams and overnight masks help to support the regenerative processes in the skin.

This includes helping the skin to recover from the daily environmental aggressions. They can help stimulate the skin’s self-defense mechanism and boost the skin’s own natural antioxidant systems. —Dr. Jacqueline Hill

“

HOW?

Just as traditional face masks, Overnight Masks are designed to treat different issues (such as aging or sensitivity) but all have the common goal to keep our hydration levels to a maximum.

Their huge advantage is that they do all the work when you’re getting your beauty sleep. They create a protective seal to lock in the moisture while our skin is busy regenerating overnight. The formulae are designed to be light to avoid staining your pillow.

By integrating this additional step, which is basically effortless, beauty brands are promising you will wake up with a glowy complexion and fully moisturized skin. Your skin is protected against the aggression of temperature changes, blurry complexion and your make up will sit flawlessly throughout the day.

WHY ?

With seasonal change, skin is likely to suffer from the constant changes of temperature as one goes from the cold and windy outdoors to heated buildings. These temperature disruptions can cause havoc on the skin, making it more sensitive, prone to irritation and generally drier. With this, comes a wide array of other problems: our make-up doesn’t last all day and our skin feels tight.

THE LAZIEST WAY TO GET DEWY,

SOFT AND GLOWY SKIN !

[

[

TREND ORIGIN

OVERNIGHT FACE MASKS

These overnight face masks were brought by beauty-savvy Asian brands a few years ago and are now making their way to the Western markets. Known as Sleep Packs in Asia, they are specifically designed to be applied as the last step in the beauty routine at night and then rinsed off in the morning.

CRB INSIDE, left to right: INDULGENT DAPHNE, ultra rich anti-ageing night cream.

ULTIMATE COLLECTION, anti-ageing night cream.

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BEAUTY SPOTLIGHT

THE GLOBAL CONCERN:

ANTI-POLLUTION WHY ?

With new studies suggesting that exposure to air pollution has a similar effect to UV rays, consumers are becoming more aware of these impacts and are finding, in parallel, a lack of offer or efficacy. Thus as awareness and interest grows, such claims will be expected and more brands should respond with anti-pollution claims in their formulations. But consumer demand doesn’t stop there: brands will need to capitalize on multifunctional anti-pollution solutions, as consumers are looking for more effectiveness in products that tackle all the environmental concerns: wrinkles, dark spots, pigmentation and uneven skin tone. Recent research undertaken by Mintel reveals that in China, pollution is the third highest concern ranked by 20 to 49-year-old consumers, and 61% of consumers in China are very concerned about fine particulate matter.

TREND ORIGIN

[

[

According to Datamonitor Consumer’s 2014 global survey, a total of 31% of global consumers agree that they are concerned about dark spots, pigmentation and uneven skin tone. The point would be to focus on the consumer’s preference for a convenient and accelerated regime offering 360° shield for their busy, urban lifestyle. Claims should not only focus on UVA and UVB shield but detoxifying, anti-stress, anti-pollution treatment and helping to remove pollution as well as dirt. A number of Western brands have already followed the example of Asian products bringing the anti-pollution trend to a wider market, but it is important to create new formulas rather than simply reposition existing products with new marketing and advertising campaigns. The consumer will want to see the proof with their own eyes.

“URBAN DUST” AS COINED BY AVON, WILL CONTINUE TO TROUBLE CONSUMERS AND THEY WILL INCREASINGLY BE ASKING BRANDS TO PROVIDE PROOF OF THE PRODUCT EFFICACY.”

Globally, the skincare market has seen a recent boom of launches which tackle the impact of environmental stresses, such as pollution, UV exposure and allergen. Even though this trend originally comes from Asia, western consumers are now also demanding such products. This global interest towards environmental solutions can be explained through an increasingly urbanized consumer.

According to the World Health Organization, 54% of today’s global population is urbanized (compared to just 34% in 1960).

CRB INSIDE, left to right: DERMACARE, renewing balm.

URBAN DEFENSE, city shield youth + SPF 30.

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CRB Magazine issue N°5

PHOTOGRAPHED BY SABINE VILLIARD / TRUNK ARCHIVE

HOW?

BEAUTY SPOTLIGHT CRB INSIDE, left to right: MASK-A-PORTER, firming mask, detox mask, brightening mask, energizing mask, moisturising mask.

THE NEW PRODUCT:

MULTI-MASKING WHY ?

MASKS HAVE BECOME A MAIN CHARACTER AND KEY-PLAYER IN THE SKINCARE ROUTINE HOW? There are many different skin problems depending on the skin type, but season or hormonal changes also affect the skin. The idea is to use a mask on targeted areas. For dry patches, such as cheeks or forehead, oilbased masks help restore moisture and elasticity. Aloe Vera is also a great choice to hydrate and repair.

For areas prone to acne and blackheads, such as the nose or chin, detoxifying masks help clear pores using ingredients such as Charcoal or grape seed extracts as they help purify skin. For sensitive areas, such as the skin under the eyes, soothing products such as a good quality hydrogel give the necessary repair and moisture. But one can reach further with eye patches, cheek or lip masks. — By Amanda Bühler

[

PHOTOGRAPHY BY GUY AROCH FOR THE VIOLET FILES

[

Masks have definitely been living a stellar year with the common beliefs regarding these amazing products shifting from basic to super popular. Masks are no longer perceived as simple rescue-products for dry skin, but are treated as a main character and key-player in the beauty routines. Multimasking, as the name indicates, is the term used to describe the application of different skin masks at the same time. This allows for high customization when it comes to deep skin care, as each mask targets the different problem areas to work its magic at the same time, optimizing the time we dedicate to our beauty regime. Consumers have realized that there is not just one remedy that works for all ailments and multimasking has answered the need for personalization.

TREND ORIGIN

A recent Mintel research, dated November 2015, shows that 13% of US adults who use facial skincare products agree that facial treatments give them better results than everyday skincare products. It is clear that the need for variability in skincare products is no doubt driving the multimasking trend.

And this trend has been uberised on social networks, such as Instagram, where the new selfie-trend is to post pictures wearing the latest cool masks.

IT’S MORE ABOUT APPROACHING A MASK IN TARGET ZONES AS OPPOSED TO LAYERING THEM WHO ? Éminence’s Balancing Masque Duo

Herborist’s T’ai Chi Masks duo

Tony Moly Mr. Smile Patch Hydrogel laugh line mask CRB Magazine issue N°5

11

skincare EDIT The trending products of the moment and

the actives everyone is talking about.

SKINCARE EDIT

GOLD INFUSED PRODUCT

The practice of using pretty metals in the beauty routine can be traced back though centuries.

For instance, Cleopatra reputedly slept every night with a facemask of pure gold to maintain her youthful complexion –high maintenance much? –, Chinese empresses used to massage their faces with gold rollers and geishas would rub pure edible gold leaf on their skin.From shimmering body oils and scrubs to serums and eye creams, gold is clearly on trend. Yet the current stars of the show are undoubtedly face masks and sheet masks. Apart from being incredibly extravagant and utterly cool, these 24 carat gold mask treatments have been proven to make instant wonders and enhance the skin’s beauty with its natural luminosity. While studies to confirm the efficacy of gold’s antiaging properties continue, there is no denying that gold and silver-infused masks do give immediate effect and in a world where we expect our products to gratify us instantly, I guess gold does the trick pretty well.

CHARCOAL

Until recently, charcoal was associated with summer barbecues, blackened miner faces or being on Santa’s naughty list. But, of course, the beauty world is always full of surprises! Unless you have been living underground, you will have noticed that Charcoal has become THE latest star ingredient when it comes to detoxing and purifying your skin.

Activated charcoal, which is basically regular charcoal injected with oxygen, is not a recent invention. It has been used by the medical world since the beginning of the 20th century and has been known to treat alcohol poisoning or drug overdoses, but also to purify water and act as teeth whitener. The reason it is such a popular, powerful and effective product is that it acts as a magnet, attracting toxic elements like a sponge before they can do further damage.

MORINGA

You may have heard of the term “Tree of Life”, as it is used to describe the Moringa tree native of the Himalaya and some African countries. The oil derived from the tree is believed to contain amazing properties being a rich source of vitamins A, B, C, D and E and acts as a great antibacterial agent. It is widely used in Ayurverdic Medecine and was greatly appreciated by the Romans and Egyptians who used it as a perfume and a skin protector. Due to its high levels of vitamins, it has huge benefits for many skin problems such as ageing, pollution and pigmentation. “ It has skin healthy nutrients like vitamin A, which helps build collagen in the skin, vitamin C to help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and the healing and anti-inflammatory benefits of vitamin E” Moringa can be found in many beauty products such as soap, face creams and body creams.

The Body Shop has even developed a whole product line showcasing its divine smell and fabulous properties.

FERMENTED INGREDIENTS

What do sauerkraut, kimchi, yeast and kefir all have in common? They are all types of food that have gone through a fermentation process and known to be quite healthy for your gut health. In Asia, people have been eating fermented foods for centuries and it was only a matter of time before the Korean beauty industry translated those benefits into amazing skincare products that are believed to work wonders on dry and sensitive skin. But what is fermentation exactly?

Fermentation is basically a process where grains, fruits or herbs are soaked in salty water, which allows the growth of good bacteria (think about the yeast that we use to make bread). The bacteria generates lactic acid which creates B-vitamins, probiotics, Omega-3 fatty acids and beneficial enzymes, leading food to become more nutrient-dense than in its unfermented state .

This same process applied to skincare, means that fermented actives boosts skincare products into becoming superefficient. Furthermore, as it is a very slow and natural process, there are very little risks of skin irritation. In addition to this very attractive value proposition, the fermented actives trend also appeals to natural beauty lovers as it preaches a “back to basics” approach to beauty and requires very few preservative ingredients to maintain its efficiency. Fermented actives are expected to appeal to adventurous customers in the Western markets and can be found in many beauty products from serums to moisturizers and masks.

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C R B

MARKET

iBEAUTY SHOCK WAVE Techno-driven. Generation now.

Digital disruptors. Power shift.

The revolution is on FULL SPEED as the industry is undergoing seismic change.

CRB Magazine issue N°5

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INSIDER BEAUTY

MULTI

CULTURAL

beauty

In the past, skin care products addressed three types of skin issues: dry skin, oily skin, antiageing. That. Was. It. However, in a fast moving and ever-evolving world, the situation has changed greatly. By Claire Cunha

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PHOTOGRAPH BY CHRISTIAN KETTIGER

A

ccording to Skininc.com “Demographically, African-American, Asian, Indian, Hispanic and other people of color already number over one-third of the U.S. population—and their spending power is rising fast. For example, the Asian population, the group with the highest annual household spending in the United States, has seen over 43% growth since 2000.” Another report from J. Walter Thompson Intelligence’s Innovation Group on Generation Z noted that by 2012, 47 percent of Americans under the age of 20 were from an ethnic minority, and that there are 7.7 million more minority young people now than in 2000, but 5.7 million fewer white children. These groups are highly influenced by their heritage and have their own preferences regarding skincare and beauty routines.

Such statistics mean appealing to a multicultural consumer base is an imperative for marketers and retailers large and small.

INSIDER BEAUTY Beauty brands and retailers are increasingly responding to the needs of multi-ethnic consumer groups , who are set to soon become the majority in the US.

“

DEMOGRAPHICALLY, AFRICAN-AMERICAN, ASIAN, INDIAN, HISPANIC AND OTHER PEOPLE OF COLOR ALREADY NUMBER OVER ONE-THIRD OF THE U.S. POPULATION— AND THEIR SPENDING POWER IS RISING FAST. SKININC.COM

“

The beauty industry has had to rethink its customer segmentation and how to best address the needs of the increasingly versatile customer base. Indeed, after having recovered from the Great Recession of 2008, many of the biggest and most mature brands The rise of interracial marriages has also brought in the beauty industry have struggled to maintain some exciting and new challenges to the beauty relevance as the traditional demographic and world as the range of skin tones but also hair sociologic key influencers shaping their business types has expanded considerably and traditional evolved at great speed, driven by the digital and retail products will just not make the cut anymore. technological revolution. According to “Business of Companies have to find a way to include Fashion” the first half of 2015 saw all these different needs when developing some disappointing financial results their offering. This is not to say that a in the beauty industry from massproduct is to be targeted to a single group market P&G to higher-end brands in function of their ethnicity. The success such as Avon. The main culprits are of Korean-skincare in Western countries is believed to be a slowing growth in the just one example of how skincare has no Chinese market, coupled with a strong boarders and that consumers are open to US dollar which impacted the exports considering new beauty rituals that have of many US companies throughout the right value proposition. the year. However, the article does The Emerging Economies have also call one area with huge potential and seen a massive rise in their spending “One of the most promising vectors of power. China, India, Malaysia and Brazil growth is the expanding market for sorepresent billions of potential customers called ‘ethnic’ or ‘multicultural’ beauty for the beauty industry. Early 2015, products, meaning products targeted L’Oréal´s CEO Jean-Paul Agon detailed at multi-ethnic consumers in both the the French beauty giant´s plan to attract West and in emerging economies.”

1 billion new customers by 2020. Most of Most mature markets, such as the US, these potential new clients will be in Asia, the UK or continental Europe, have a Latin America, Africa and the Middle-East. long history of immigration and are One of the ways L’Oréal plans to achieve composed of a melting pot of ethnic Bloggers Cipriana Quann and Nikisha this is by surfing on the trend of acquiring groups who have seen their disposable Brunson have become globally super very specialized niche companies that income grow over the past years. “The influential through their style blog already cater to a specific customer. “These United States is quickly transforming include ethnic haircare brand Soft Sheen (acquired from a melting pot into a mosaic,” says Kathy O’Brien, in 1998), Carson (2000) — a leader in beauty vice president of skin and marketing services of products for the Black consumer — and (…) Carol’s Unilever North America - interviewed in Beauty Inc, Daughter, a natural line of haircare products with August 2015- “Consumers today are multi-ethnic, a strong multicultural consumer base.” Daughter, multifaceted and have lifestyles as diverse as their a natural line of haircare products with a strong backgrounds. We know that in 2050, ‘other’ will be the multicultural consumer base.” u largest projected ethnic group in the U.S.” CRB Magazine issue N°5

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This is very similar to Nestlé’s strategy in the food industry and is a very effective way of acquiring knowledge, hiring highly qualified professionals and a securing a whole new bunch of customers. Another important area of investment for L’Oréal will be R&D, as they have set up a multicultural research lab in Chicago. Developing the right formulae which match diverse customer needs, but also it takes to convince them with the right claims and messaging will be key to acceptance and, ultimately, success for the Western brands that want to expand their business.

However, there is also room for companies outside the Western boarders to conquer the more mature markets. As we all know, the boom of Korean cosmetics has taken the US and Europe by storm. The genius of the Korean beauty market is that they not only managed to acquire a whole new customer base, but also convince consumers to expand their product use. Indeed, most of us went from a simple trio of make-up remover + facewash+ moisturizer, to including more than 6 or 7 products in our daily routine to get the flawless skin of the beautiful Korean women.

The reason for their success is that they have been developing these products for decades and investing massively in R&D, which place Korean beauty products probably 12-14 years ahead of Western products in the same price range.

But Korea is not the only one with opportunities for expansion. Brazil is at the centre of the world´s attention after the 2014 FIFA World Cup and the 2016 Olympics. Influenced by the cult of perfect beach bodies, Brazilians have high 18

CRB Magazine issue N°5

standards when it comes to beauty and grooming and a formidable ambassador in Gisele Bundchen. According to Mintel, “made in Brazil” brand has a strong force on the global market as “only 10% of skincare launches inspired by Brazilian lifestyles and ingredients were actually released in Brazil, while 90% of Brazilian inspired products were launched outside Brazil.” It is no surprise that Brazil has managed to become such a strong global player. On the one hand, it is a land with amazing natural resources that have strong selling power: superfoods such as açai, coffee or Brazil nuts are just a few of them. On the other hand, it is known to be one of the biggest melting pots from an ethnicity perspective and has already had to address the multicultural diversity of its population so already knows how to deal with very diverse consumer wishes and needs.

As the world becomes more and more diverse, multicultural beauty is here to stay and this is just the beginning. There are opportunities across the world for big beauty giants to expand their boarders, but also for smaller companies to conquer the world. We look forward to this new era and to embrace the changes that will bring so much innovation and excitement. —

PHOTOGRAPHY BACKSTAGE DOLCE & GABBANA

SHISEIDO ADVERT FOR ULTIMUNE

INSIDER BEAUTY

INTERVIEW

CRB Magazine issue N°4

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INTERVIEW

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CRB Magazine issue N°5

MARKET FOCUS

The BIG TREND Our annual focus on the currents, trends and innovations to watch out for in the year ahead

FORECAST A VIEW BEYOND THE HORIZON

u

With digital advances, new technologies, trend patterns unfolding to create steady alters on the long run and media/marketing channels shifting The year 2015 was a transformative one forpower the from brands to consumers, the market dynamic cosmetic industry worldwide with major changesis evolving faster than ever.

— By Amanda Bühler. redefining traditional standards.

With digital advances, new technologies, trend patterns unfolding to create steady alters on the long run and media/marketing channels shifting power from brands to consumers, the market dynamic is evolving faster than ever.

So what’s in store for 2016? We’ve put together a list of the top trends to look out for in the coming 12 months.

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MARKET FOCUS Topshop UK, Virtual Reality Front Row Experience. .

1

EXPERIENTIAL TECHNOLOGY : Digital retailing and devices reshaping the beauty industry

Virtual reality and digital retailing are expected to be taken to a whole new level in 2016 by entering the mainstream.

Indeed, the conventional shopping experience is shifting to high-tech, and whilst stores are still the main touch point in the decision making process for buyers, launches leading the way such as Sephora’s 3.0 store and Facebook’s first commercial virtual reality headset, Oculus Rift, are creating new shopping experiences. Online and in store, virtual reality is adding more resources to the business and new selling opportunities. Think Interactive terminals, mural tablets, digital shelves and baskets, selfie mirrors, digital distributor and real-time visualisers. In this super-connected era, a plastic shopping cart is so 2015 as the customer service experience becomes an interactive and personalised one. Also using digital as a marketing tool is Yves Saint Laurent with its Google Glasses makeup tutorials. Feeding off the success of ‘vloggers’, the tutorial is filmed from the perspective of the makeup artist and the video is then sent to customers via email.

DIOR EYES

YVES SAINT LAURENT’S GOOGLE GLASSES MAKEUP TUTORIAL

To succeed, it will thus be vital for brands to place digital at the heart of their strategy, not as a parallel or accessory option, but by integrating it entirely into their business to enhance the shopping experience, extending their reach and meeting with the buyers’ changing habits. In 2015, we also witnessed the editorialisation of retail, kick-started notably by Net-à-Porter through their printed issues of Porter Magazine. As this opens such a wide array of commercial possibilities for brands, this retailing trend will most likely strive in 2016 to become the advent of entirely shoppable virtual realities.

These technological advances are having a big influence on how we want to use beauty too. In 2015, beauty devices emerged strongly on the beauty market and whilst they remain niche, the line between beauty and technology is blurring ever more.

Consumers are becoming increasingly familiar with using I-tech to control their health and well-being and are now looking for equivalents within beauty brands. This is putting diagnostic tools, tech devices and wearable technology at the for-front of beauty in 2016, as the consumer is seeking more control, functionality and futuristic experiences.

LOOK OUT FOR: Tech advances from companies such as DigitasLBi Labs, France, or products similar to Oculus Rift as this trend will become mainstream once the options widen for these devices.

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MARKET FOCUS

By now, social-media platforms like Instagram and YouTube have changed both the way brands market and they way consumers purchase, even going as far as creating new demand for specific products to suit social-media savvy users, such as instant perfecting creams, BB creams, and quirky animal printed face masks too. We are slowly shifting away from traditional media and big-money ad campaigns, in favour of digital and fast communication.

Digital platforms and social media are not only offering new opportunity for brands to communicate, they are also offering precious insights into the customer’s needs and wishes, almost instantly. Whether through selfies, vlogs, or instagram posts, the feedback can be so easily monitored that it is similar to having little focus groups where the brands hear what customers like or dislike on a one to one level, enabling the brands to stay up-to-date on what is in demand and what is a big flop.

2

DOLCE & GABBANA CATWALK SELFIES

NEO MARKETING & MEDIA : Inching away from traditional codes

LOOK OUT FOR: New or trending social networks, such as SnapChat where brands have recently embraced short video that capture spontaneity.

THE BABY BOOMER POWER SHIFT:

3

Only as old as ones attitude Together they represent some 32 million strong members of a generation that remain brand’s last frontier. Loaded with free time to spare and wealthy, the +60 retired women are more hip than ever, self-confident, worldly and quite fed up of being put aside. Part of a generation that worked hard to earn a living, they are now battling to remain visible and heard by brands as they are breaking the stereotypes of grannies in orthopaedic sandals. As for the cosmetic industry, this generation comprises 40% of the total cosmetics-using population of women aged 15-89, in Japan, and further research reveals that 90% of these women use skincare on a day to day basis, which is a high percentage 24

CRB Magazine issue N°5

than the younger generations.

Up to recently, brands had yet to offer products targeting this generation and shift the communication to address their needs too. This is a trend we expect to see grow in 2016, as life expectancy is only increasing. There is a gap on the market where brands such as White hot Hair or Kanebo Cosmetics’ Twany Glow skincare line for +60 are timidly filling.

“SILVER ECONOMY”: KATE SPADE ADVERT WITH IRIS APFEL, 94 YEARS OLD

MARKET FOCUS

THE 360° OF WELLBEING : The Uberization of Beauty This year’s big skin-care trend isn’t about what you apply on your face; it’s what you’re sipping, what you’re eating, how you exercise and how you monitor your health. Consumers aspire to a 360° of wellbeing with life, nature and revivalism being the key words with a strong environmental awareness leading the way. The global market of organic personal care for instance is growing at an average rate of nearly 10%, and if this current rate of growth continues, market researcher Grand View Research predicts the market value will reach USD$15.98 billion by the year 2020, at a CAGR of 9.8%. And the natural category also continued to register similar growth. This movement is impacting all the facets of the beauty industry, from ingredient sourcing, packaging and product usage as the consumer changes his perception of consumerism and the importance of eating well, “ you are what you eat”, as they are increasingly making the connection between skin care and nutrition. In 2016, we expect to see the related micro-trends that appeared in 2015, such as fermented beauty, farm to face, superfood beauty and nature lab beauty to become huge in the upcoming 12 months.

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FITNESS INSPO: KAYLA ITSINES AND HER “PERSONAL TRAINING JOURNEY ON INSTAGRAM.

Interest in the natural ingredients and the process behind the beauty products is on the rise too, and the consumer is more inclined than before to get involved in the process of creating his products.

This has brought traditional beauty remedies into the mainstream, with a focus on artisanal production, small batch beauty brands and beauty kitchen, by “cookingup” homemade beauty products. Brands will therefore need to adopt a more health-oriented approach to product positioning and formulations and highlight a more artisanal approach to production, whilst offering the buyer the possibility to participate in making the products at home.

ASIANIFICATION STILL GOING STRONG: The K-Beauty impact on the Western market

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COSMETICS HEAVEN: SHOPPING STREETS IN MYEONGDONG, SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA.

It’s safe to say that 2015 was the year of K-beauty, and this Korean fever looks set to grow even stronger in 2016. K-beauty is 7 years ahead of the rest of the world in product development and innovation, as it is strongly backed up by government investment, so the high speed at which Korea creates new trendsand innovative products is far from close to slowing down and the West will keep a high interest – for instance, Macy’s announced it was opening a K-beauty shop in partnership with Peach& Lily in its Queens, New York. In such a super competitive global market, boosted by globally demanding and skincare-savvy women, Korean beauty brands must imperatively deliver on all fronts. The main trends that are expected to boom are waterless products, weird textures (such as jellified oil or pressed serums), masks as always (splash masks, spray masks, rubber masks, you name it), and food-inspired beauty products.

LOOK OUT FOR: Trending products from Asia are expected to be jellyfied oils, sprayable or hydrogel masks, sleep packs and pressed serums. Waterless prducts are predicted to be a trend.

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MARKET FOCUS

FROM NICHE TO MAINSTREAM :

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How indie and niche brands are reinventing the cosmetics market According to Kline, the US cosmetics and personal care industry is currently worth around $43bn and is delivering growth of just under 3% per annum. And the increasing influence of niche brands across both the luxury and mass segments is currently transforming the competitive landscape. Indeed, niche brands are growing at the fastest rate within the U.S. prestige beauty market, giving bigger brands quite the challenge, according to data from The NPD Group. More data from Kline research suggests that indie brands were estimated to have accounted for 7.3% of the total market in 2014. The rise of these niche brands can be attributed to their ability to translate social media exposure into revenue and notoriety by applying small budgets for a high impact. As these brands are small and thus more flexible, they can move faster and be more innovative, catching up on micro-trends and ultimately delivering new products in a short amount of time, which is crucial in a fast-paced environment. These niche brands then use a plethora of new marketing tools to build momentum and communicate with a louder and broader voice than traditional (and expenssive) marketing strategies. And it pays off.

FROM BLOGGER TO COSMETIC BUSINESS: EMILY WEISS, FOUNDER OF INTOTHEGLOSS WEBSITE LAUNCHED THE SUCCESSFUL NICHE BRAND GLOSSIER PRODUCTS BASED ON AUDIENCE FEEDBACK.

Too Faced Cosmetics, earned an estimated value of $68.6m, Anastasia Beverly Hills an impressive $65.4m and e.l.f. earned $28.5m (according to data from Tribe Dynamics). It is for all of these reasons that the big multinational cosmetic companies have been keeping a close eye on indie brands and buying up the top performing ones in 2015. And with indie brands growing stronger, 2016 is expected to see many more M&A over the coming months, as big companies will try to develop new and faster growing revenue streams.

EUROMONITOR JUNE 2015: THE FUTURE OF SKIN CARE: GAME-CHANGING TRENDS AND INFLUENCERS

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NICHE BRANDS CONCEPT STORE: OH MY CREAM!

MARKET FOCUS THE COLOUR RUN, ALSO KNOWN AS THE HAPPIEST 5K ON THE PLANET, WAS ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR EVENTS OF 2015. TAKING PLACE IN OVER 50 COUNTRIES, IT EPITOMISES THE MILLENNIAL’S QUEST FOR EXPERIENCE AND SHARING.

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THE MILLENNIALS :

According to a report from Luxury Society, 70% of United States-based Millennials now look for experiences that “stimulate their senses”, over actually buying products. Experience is the biggest trend to be found among the Millennial generation that will continue to grow stronger in 2016, as live events, concerts and social gatherings fuel their appetite for life. One in four Millennials would indeed rather spend more on a real-life experience, where excitement and memories may be share on social networks.

However, their aim to disconnect with materialism must not be taken as a threat but as a growing opportunity for businesses to leverage on creating experiences to increase value on products and connect with the consumer on a highly emotional level.

Brands that are built on experience or offer experience through a strategy won the hearts of buyers in 2015. This was particularly striking on Instagram, with brands such as Charlotte Tilbury’ #TILBURYtransformation, a taxi driving around offered make-overs, or Soap and Glory’s Glory girls, touring the UK, vamped up the streets of Britain. And recent survey results prove that the impact of Instagram on sales is strong. In its 2015 study of the U.S. cosmetics industry, TABS Analytics found Instagram is very important in the purchasing decisions of 31 percent of Millennials who are heavy buyers of cosmetics, an 11 percent increase from 2014. Another way to offer experience to the consumer is virtual reality and augmented technology as they stimulate the senses and bring a new dimension to shopping.

Sensploration-driven

Thus, the virtual reality market is expected to grow from $90m in 2014 to $5.2bn by 2018. Millennials are very aware that brand are crowdsourcing ideas and collecting their data for marketing purposes, so they expected brands to personalise and customise their products and services to their desires, offering them the experience they seek. Whether it is by connecting via social media or by fuelling their desire for escapism of the physical purchasing, such as Chanel did with their Travel inspired collection for Spring/ Summer 2016, brands will have to find a way to communicated with this new generation of consumers.

LOUIS VUITTON SPRING/ SUMMER 16 CAMPAIGN INSPIRED BY THE DIGITAL ERA.

CHANEL AIRLINE BOARDING PASS POSTED PRE-SHOW ON INSTAGRAM CRB Magazine issue N°5

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EXPERT GLOBAL VIEW

THE POWER SHIFT FROM NICHE TO MAINSTREAM:

As the personal care market is disrupted by niche brands that have become beauty’s new breeding ground, how are the powerhouses playing their cards and what is at stake in this game?

EXPERT GLOBAL VIEW

PHOTOGRAPHY FROM KAHINA.COM

I

n 2015, Market Research Company Euromonitor reported that of one the top biggest trends in the skin care industry was the acquisition of Niche Brands by big companies. The market seems to have confirmed the prediction as last year, beauty giants such as L’Oréal and Estée Lauder went on an acquisition spree and integrated some very successful smaller companies into their groups. Over the past years, L’Oréal pursued its “Universalization Strategy” by expanding their portfolio in many product segments and markets, from Chinese skincare brand MAGIC, to hair colouring products in Brazil and multicultural product brand Carol´s Daughter in the US. Estee Lauder, in just 11 weeks at the end of 2014, acquired high-end fragrance companies Frédéric Malle and Le Labo, in addition to Rodin Olio Lusso, an all-natural skin-care brand based on essential oils and GlamGlow specializing in facial masks that threat acne.

But what makes the success of niche brands? There is one simple way to look at it: niche brands are often known for their quality, exclusivity and uniqueness. And many have built a huge following of very loyal customers in a short amount of time. Thanks to the power of social media, many of these niche brands have built notoriety online, such as ColourPop, Sigma Beauty, Dose of Colours and BH Cosmetics, and have a greater Instagram followings than established brands including Revlon or Cover Girl. These are qualities often associated with the luxury industry, as customers feel special and listened to. It is no wonder big conglomerates are attracted by them and why they would consider integrating them into their portfolio.

First, of course, there is the potential of increased sales by acquiring a whole new customer segment and increasing market share. In some cases, big groups are even absorbing a potential competitor. This is very important in the beauty market as a handful of strong players dictate the rules of the market. Integrating a completely new company into the portfolio is also a good way of testing the water in a potential high-growth opportunities and acquiring some knowledge.

“

INSTAGRAM DRIVES NICHE BEAUTY BRAND, ANASTASIA BEVERLY HILLS’ SALES

NICHE BRANDS ARE OFTEN KNOWN FOR THEIR QUALITY, EXCLUSIVITY AND UNIQUENESS. AND MANY HAVE BUILT A HUGE FOLLOWING OF VERY LOYAL COSTUMERS IN A SHORT AMOUNT OF TIME, THANKS TO THE POWER OF SOCIAL MEDIA.

In the case of L’Oréal, the acquisition of Carol´s Daughter is one of the first steps of the French beauty giant to appeal to the fast-growing multicultural market.

Acquisitions also create differentiation and uniqueness. In the case of very specialized brands, that started out from scratch or that are active in very specific segments, using natural or rare products, you often get a strong culture with rich history.

Many small brands were successful because their founders invested time, sweat and tears into developing them which means they have a story, a unique value proposition and a loyal customer base. This was particularly important to Estee Lauder´s president and CEO Fabrizio Freda during their recent wave of acquisitions, as told in an interview to the Wallstreet Journal: “The acquisitions were about their unique points but also their elements of commonality.

They are all artisanal and very high quality, with a certain element of customization. All are in the high-end luxury area, and all have strong points of view.” Finally, an acquisition of a company also allows a bigger group access to whole new areas of knowledge, from new formulae to exclusive intellectual property that can be leveraged to other parts of the company.

It also entails the hiring of highly skilled new professionals that can bring a fresh perspective which can come as a breath of fresh air for a big company often rooted I its own processes.

For the acquired brand, there are also some tremendous opportunities but also important points to consider. By being absorbed by global giants, smaller brands get access to many resources and a huge visibility which they probably would not achieved on their own. This access to new infrastructure and new markets brings can allow a small brand to grow as it never had before. On the other hand, one of the biggest challenges is for the brand to be able to keep it identity, uniqueness and customer loyalty after the acquisition. Big companies should understand what made the niche brand so successful up until now and value that it is that uniqueness that appeals to their original customers. By focusing on customer loyalty rather than customer acquisition at all costs, there is huge potential for the adventure to be a successful one. — By Claire Cunha.

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RODIN 'KALEIDOSCOPE' HOLIDAY SET

“

C R B

PHOTOGRAPHY ONDREA BARBE

SCIENCE

CLEAN CONSCIENCE As consumer focus shifts towards a health conscious mind-set, NATURAL INGREDIENTS are the new BUZZ WORD. Efficacy and instant gratification are at the centre of demand.

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BREAKTHROUGHS

SECRET

ANTI

AGEING YOUNG AGAIN WITH MYTHOS VITA

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BREAKTHROUGHS

CRB INSIDE, The Green Cosmeceuticals collection for Spring/Summer 2016 with Mythos Vita

“

MITOCHONDRIA ARE THE ENERGY POWERHOUSE OF THE CELL [...]

AND TO DATE, THE MITOCHONDRIAL THEORY OF AGING REMAINS THE MOST BROADLY RECOGNIZED.

“

s

cientifically speaking, when we see a young person brimming around full of energy, we might think “Oh, those young mitochondria”!

Mitochondria are the energy powerhouse of the cell.

Healthy looking skin has a balanced energy metabolism thanks to mitochondria. Yet, over the time, the energy supply in the skin is decreased, leaving skin looking tired and dull.

Mitochondria are implicated in about every cellular process; however, their primary role is cellular respiration, which ultimately leads to the production of adenosine triphosphate (ATP), the main source of intracellular energy. Given their central role in the complex balance of cellular processes that contribute to ageing, safeguarding mitochondria activity and preserving their vitality becomes a crucial challenge for an anti-ageing strategy.

Vitalab scientists showed that this unique blend is able to reset mitochondrial-related gene expression to a more youthful state. It shields skin cells from oxidative stress, preserving cell longevity, whilst protecting Mitochondrial DNA (mtDNA), finally contributing to overall skin health.

Moreover Mythos Vita induces a significant increase of SIRT3 expression, the most predominant sirtuin within mitochondria, known to be involved in keeping mitochondria running smoothly.

To date, the mitochondrial theory of aging remains the most broadly recognized ageing theory, and ties in closely with ideas regarding the role of cumulative release of free radicals in aging, which in turn damages mitochondria impairing their activity. The result is a decreased bioenergy and a dull, tired-looking skin.

Now the skin needs overflowing energy!

Based on sustainable, natural and organic raw materials, the synergic effect of Kiwi Berry stem cells and fruit extract blended in Mithos Vita help to reinvigorate mitochondria and ward off signs of ageing! — By Claudia Zappelli

Mythos Vita is a novel Vitalab’s active ingredient, selected for its unique properties associated with gene modulation towards the mitochondria. Mythos Vita is a blend of stem cells and fruit extract of Kiwi Berry, well known and widely used as a super fruit in Asia and naturally rich in Vitamin C, Vitamin E and minerals.

Mitochondria are implicated in about every cellular process; however, their primary role is cellular respiration, which ultimately leads to the production of adenosine triphosphate.

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The most captivating beauty secret of the moment.

The on-demand, instant gratification culture of the digital world is having a huge impact on the beauty world! BB creams, Blurs, primers, you name it, but be sure to own it too! — By Amanda Bühler.

I N S TA N T G R AT I F I C AT I O N PHOTO PERFECTORS & LIGHT CREATORS 2015 was named the year of the ‘selfie’ and the trend of creating a photo-perfect appearance is set to impact the beauty industry even more in the foreseeable future. Consumers want perfect skin and a glowing complexion so they are looking for products that bring uniformity, smooth grain and immediate, visible effects.

Formulas with pearly textures adjust the skin tone and illuminate the complexion, whilst instantly creating a perfectly smooth complexion for camera-ready skin.

TURNS SHINE INTO A HEALTHY GLOW, EVENS SKIN TONE, CORRECTS DARK SPOTS AND REFINES PORES

From left to right: ELEGANCE Revive my natural beauty 47033762 ;LADY CIRCE Magic brightening primer 47023049 ; PERFECTION Take my shine away 47033763 34

CRB Magazine issue N°5

PHOTOGRAPHY ONDREA BARBE

OUT OF THE LAB

OUT OF THE LAB

BEAUTY CAMOUFLAGE & PERFECTING BLURS The huge success of BB creams, referred to as one the most significant successes in Skincare as of late, has brought multi-benefit products into demand thus making them standard in many product categories. However, there are still opportunities for further cross-category convergence and the emergence of more hybrid products is set to be a big trend.

Beauty camouflage products and blurs create the perfect canvas for great makeup, by easily deleting flaws and dressing the skin with a natural blur. And with the beauty trend focusing on natural looks, these hybrid products will be huge on the market for next few years.

From left to right: VIBRANT SPIRIT SPF20* BB Cream 47023028 ; FUTURISTIC FEMME BB Eye cream 47023033

FADES IMPERFECTIONS, REVITALISES SKIN, REDUCES BLEMISHES AND GIVES A NATURAL FINISH

From left to right: GREEN HEART SPF6* BB Cream 47023032 ; MAGICAL ERASER 47033522

From left to right: SUNSHINE LIGHT Skin perfector 47034511 ; MISS WHITE BLOSSOM BB Cream 47023026

WARMS UP THE COMPLEXION AND OFFERS SUBTILE COVERAGE FOR GLOWY SKIN

PHOTOGRAPHY ONDREA BARBE

GENIOUS GLOW & INSTANT HEALTHY-LOOK Sun-kissed skin that captures the secret of “light from within” is most likely one of the most enviable beauty looks and according to Euromonitor, 2015, products from this category are likely to be the first to offer higher growth potential in the next 5 years. The focus is on enhancing skin’s natural glow with products that embellish the skin and carry sublime radiance. Micro-encapsulated pigments ensure a luminous bronzed finish and copper-tinted powder cream melts into the skin creating a fresh velvety film.

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SKINCARE FOCUS

PHOTOGRAPH GLOSSIER

Besides the obvious reason of environmentalfriendly living, there are many reasons why natural is gaining such momentum. People with sensitive skin often find that organic skin care products are much gentler than traditional products, shielding our skin from sometimes harsh and toxic ingredients. And as we become nearly obsessed with the source of everything we eat, drink and apply (we have North America to thank for that!), green versions of beauty products seem to be the answer. “A lot of people are seeking wellness,” says Cindy DiPrima, cofounder of CAP Beauty. “They have gotten their diets and exercise regimes [clean], and natural beauty is the next progression.

Green cosmeceuticals

Science leveraging on the power of nature As consumer focus is shifting towards a health conscious mind-set, green cosmeceuticals provides superior performances without a doctor’s prescription, offering breakthrough, natural alternatives to the classical cosmeceutical treatments.

Nature has always been a fine inspiration to humankind. And this 21st Century of high-tech is no exception. Indeed, as our lives become highly urbanised and technology-driven, we witness a return to a more natural lifestyle, through food (think farm-to-table), living and all-around consuming; our focus is shifting towards a nature conscious mind-set. And this change applies to the cosmetics we so religiously apply on our skin, of course. According to analysts Grand View Research, the market value for natural products will reach USD$15.98 billion by the year 2020, and will continue to grow at a CAGR of 9.8%. What first started out as niche movement has now matured into a mainstream trend, now present in many categories.

Because women are more aware of the toxicity of certain chemicals and substances, there is an increasing demand for natural ingredient and the “back to the sources” trend is all the rage.

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People are spending a lot of money on organic food and then they are going into their bathrooms and putting on carcinogenic products. That doesn’t make sense. They are bringing their beauty routines in step with the rest of their lives.” According to Nielsen’s 2015 Global Health and Wellness Survey, 30 percent of Generation Z respondents and 33 percent of Millennials consider health attributes like “all-natural” and “made from fruits and vegetables” to be very important. This younger generation is looking away from words such as diets and “low calories” and going towards total health and wellness as a lifestyle. And Beauty of course has followed the trend with a slew of superfood-infused products of which everyone understands the benefits.

“

Pharma brands have been increasing their presences globally and are generally perceived as more skin-friendly. The pharmacy heritage of pharma brands also gives them extra credibility, and they are viewed as more effective, mainly due to this positioning.

– GCI Magazine

”

SKINCARE FOCUS

This growing demand has obviously led to natural beauty collections popping up all over the place, creating credibility concerns because of the proliferation and fragmentation. Thus, green must come with efficacy. An International Euromonitor online survey of 2015 found that over one third of consumers across 16 markets claimed that natural/organic was a key influencer in their skincare purchasing decisions and nearly 40% of them stated that super high quality was the main influential reason. A brand that embodies these attributes is Caudalie which positions itself with science and pharmacy credibility. In France, it has thus climbed the ranks in competitive premium skincare because it understood that, in order to attract consumer attention, it was crucial to associate natural with pharmaceutical credentials.

In North America for instance, where the cosmeceuticals trend is best established, 10 of the top 15 skincare brands, in terms of growth over 2009-2014, feature elements such as a pharmacy association or pharmaceutical-style packaging, free-from claims, phytotherapy / natural positioning and derma credentials.

Cosmeceuticals are bridging the gap between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals by allowing beauty companies to strengthen their brand credibility and expand their portfolio. However, cosmeceuticals can be quite aggressive and may not be suitable for sensitive skin or in line with the values of the newest generation of consumers who embrace better-for-you beauty brands corresponding with their healthy lifestyles. Indeed, to fully grasp the segment’s momentum today and into the future it is crucial to understand that the younger generation is definitely more convinced that one can get results without toxins. They are much more reverent of the power of nutritive natural ingredients than their peers. By merging Natural and Cosmeceutical , brands can tap into a new niche on the market; green cosmeceuticals.

— By Amanda Bühler

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C R B

C U LT U R E

The

SENSPLORATION

SQUAD

MILLENNIALS, the “IT” crowd seeking experiences and lifestyle enhancement.

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TREND HUNTING

MEET HENRY

To properly stereotype the acronym that is HENRYs, one may refer to them as the cool, trendy kids that everyone what’s to hang out with. And by everyone, I mean all brands seeking out the “High-Earners-Not-Yet-Rich”.

Why? Because Millennial Henrys are becoming the most affluent group, holding a huge influence over the entire Millennial generation.

So let’s meet HENRY, shall we?By Amanda Bühler.

ABOVE: TAYLOR SWIFT AND HER SQUAD REPRESENT THE MILLENIAL DREAM. RIGHT: CHANEL SPRING/SUMMER 16 COLLECTION INSPIRES TO TRAVEL AND DISCOVER. 40

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H

ENRYs (High-Earners-Not-Yet-Rich) are not only cool, they’re also smart consumers who know precisely what they want. Currently defined by household incomes of £100k – £250k and being predominantly aged between 25- 34, they have grown up with social networks, have entered the work force and globally are projected to spend $1.4 trillion annually (Accenture report) by 2020. But Millennials have only recently been considered a significant audience for luxury brands. Millennials are more often stereotyped as an indebted, coach surfing generation, yet the wind is changing as they are expected to become the most significant consumer group within the next five years. HENRYS in particular have high disposable incomes, highly driven attitudes and a desire to spend their money on the best experiences they can get, thus driving luxury brands to expand their offerings and boost the service that they provide.

TREND HUNTING

HENRYS lead a busy lifestyle, not only because their high incomes means they have demanding careers, they are also getting on fast with hitting major milestones in their life. Indeed, 57% of them are currently married which is significantly higher than non-HENRY millennials.

HENRYS also differ in their buying habits; thanks to their high income, they do not have to trade down or consider the issue of affordability when they buy something.

They simply get what they want to get.

They will buy organic because it suits their lifestyle and buy the niche products because they want to try new things. They buy what fits their general mind-set, seeking out quality, authenticity and rapidity. They know what they want and are very confident in their decisions thanks to social media and very accessible information, thus intensive marketing is a waste of time and energy on them, as they will prefer brand’s offering availability, honesty and will prize the brands that cater to all these needs fast.

“

HENRYS ARE LIVING THE “MILLENNIAL DREAM”. THIS MAKES THEM A VERY ENVIABLE CROWD WHO HAVE A HUGE IMPACT OVER THE ENTIRE GENERATION.

“

Yet, Millennial Henrys only count for less than 10% of the 20-34 year-old population, so why should a brand focus on such a small group? With their high disposable incomes and desire for a better lifestyle and enriching experiences such as travel, concerts or great food, they are living the “Millennial Dream” and the other Millennials recognise this and look up to this. This makes HENRYS a very enviable crowd who have a huge impact over the entire generation. But although they are “setting the example” for the other in their age group, they differ very much in behaviour and attitude.

Thus, Luxury brands, for instance, will need to reevaluate their approach, as even high-net-worth millennials who can afford luxury brands are still more likely to buy from brands such as Tarte or Too Faced, simply because they capitalize quickly on a certain trend and tap into their mind-set. Moreover, Henry Millennials are not a one-brand-fits-all bunch; they like to pick and choose from different brands, and are looking for specialised products that are catered for their needs. All in all, this makes HENRYS a very powerful and influential segment, because of their aspiring behaviour on other millennials, who wish to, one day, lead the same life.

And although other group segments take the same actions, they are increasingly behaving like HENRYS. HENRYS may not only become the most affluent consumers in terms of trends, their buying habits may well become a mass behaviour too.— CRB Magazine issue N°5

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THE INVISIBLE WARRIOR THAT SAFEGUARDS YOUR SKIN FROM CITY DAMAGES

HISTORY OF BEAUTY

THE 1 9 00’s DEMEURE & F EMININE

100 YEAR S

of BEAUTY TRENDS

By Amanda Bühler

By the beginning of the 1900’s Edwardian Makeup Era, women sought a ‘pale look’ as a tan suggested that a lady was of a lower class. It was still deemed unacceptable to wear makeup, so most beauty ads focused on facials and creams. Facials were very popular and women would use massage to apply creams to their face to keep skin soft and supple.

T HE 1 91 0’s T HE A CCEPTANCE OF MA KEUP In 1909, Selfridges opened on Oxford Street, London, and became the first British department store to display cosmetics openly.

Makeup was becoming more popular, yet it was only used to create an effect of youthful beauty without anyone noticing it. Rouge was applied subtly to lips, cheeks and forehead.

THE 19 30’s THE THIN E YE BROWS Neutral shades like grey or brown eyeshadow were favoured with a strong emphasis on eyelashes. They were thick and full thanks to mascara (or mascoro as it was called at the time) products which were becoming more popular than ever. Eyebrows remained thin and plucked into a fine line and sometimes overly curved.

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THE 1 9 2 0’s RED LIPS & E Y ES The cosmetic innovations, ranging from lipsticks, eyeshadows and mascaras, by brands such as Max Factor, Shiseido and Maybelline in 1910’s meant that all women could afford makeup now.

By the end of the Roaring Twenties, women could choose from over 3000 face powders and several hundred rouges.

The twenties were about big red lips and dark eyes and having fun with beauty.

WHAT’S NOW

T H E 19 40 ’s T H E WA R M A K E UP By the 1940’s, makeup was a huge industry, with brands such as Coty and Tangee notably becoming major rivals to cosmetic brand leaders like Max Factor, Helena Rubinstein, Maybelline and Elisabeth Arden. During World War II, makeup had to be ‘on the go’, so much of the packaging was practical or even labelled “war packaging”.

Red lipstick was the strong look. Once used secretly, it had become a synonym of patriotism and keeping up appearances during the war.

THE 1 9 50’s F ULL ON GLAM! This era was shaped by the post-war beauty icons- Elizabeth Taylor, Natalie Wood, Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn- with Hollywood glamour being the key beauty look. The ruling shades were pastels, pink lipstick replaced the reds for a time and cheeks had to be peachy. Big eyebrows were back in the game too.

THE 1970’s BRON Z E A G E

T H E 1 96 0’s T H E C RA ZY LAS H ES & B IBA LOOK The sixties marked the age when everything went a bit crazy. The focus went from the lips to the eyes, especially full top and bottom lashes with a cut-crease style eyeshadow background. One of the biggest shifts makeup trends took in this decade is the focus on youth and enhancing these features.

Bronzers and self-tanners were the new craze and SPF products were introduced during this decade. The beauty look was either very natural - shimmers to highlight cheekbones, peaches on the cheeks - or decadent and colourful, think Studio 54. Music had a huge influence on beauty, with disco marking the era.

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HISTORY OF BEAUTY

THE 1 9 80’s MORE OF E VERYTHING! The economic boom of the 80’s had a big impact of women’s lifestyle. Big hair, big colourful lips and a whole lot of blush that gave everyone insane cheekbones! Women began to have stronger, more powerful roles in the corporate world, which meant more money to spend on looks. Music was still a big influence with icons such as Cindy Lauper, Boy George and Madonna.

THE 1 9 9 0’s A TONE DOWN

THE 2 000’s GLITTER, GLOSS & GIRLY The gloom of the 90s gave way for a whole lot of shine, mostly in the form of glitter and other shimmery shades on the eyes, lips, cheeks. A big contributor of this was the return of the teen pop stars. Britney Spears, The Backstreet Boys, NSync, Christina Aguilera. They glorified youth more than ever before and the industry catered for this consumer the most!

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By the 1990s, beauty had toned down and fewer colour were used for makeup. The economic and crime crises of the late 80s had a big impact on the younger generation and the last vestige of the glamour era was embodied by the Supermodels.

Beauty had two main ideals: glamazon models like Cindy Crawford, or the “heroin chic” appearance of Kate Moss.

CRB Magazine issue N°4

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HISTORY WHAT’S NOW OF BEAUTY

S E P H O RA The Queen B of private label and beauty, it is no secret that Sephora is a top notch trend-setter. They give an insight to pantone trends, product launches and their instagram feed is a treat to the eye thanks to their fancy yet fun way of taking pictures and creating a visual universe for each product. A great source of inspiration!

the SOCIAL

NETWORK

#SephoraPantone

WHO to FOLLOW?

The instagram accounts for inspiration on social media content and trends.

Instagram is a treasure trove for inspiration and catching up on the latest trends. To know what’s happening in the world of beauty or get ideas on how to create lovely social media content, these are the experts to know and follow.

BE AUTY IS BO R IN G Robin Black, the make up artist and photographer behind “beauty is boring”, does not deliver your average makeup. It is a great source for ontrend inspiration with posts that feature faces and looks that are beautiful regardless of age, gender or cultural trends and great backstage picture and behind the scenes insights.

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WHAT’S NOW

E LLE UK The beauty gals behind the Elle UK magazine feed are so passionate about beauty that content is not only fun but very useful as an insight to how other brands are communicating.

Case in point: Their hashtag #ELLEbeautycupboard is a treasure trove for marketing ideas, communication tools and, of course, the latest product launches.

#ELLEbeautycupboard #SheInspiresMe C H A RLOT T E T I LBURY Wether it’s through her makeup line or skincare line, Makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury is a firm favourite among celebrities, bloggers and beauty editors alike, which is why one should have an eye on this trendsetter day in day out. The peeks are getting a glimpse into her glam life with supermodels and celebs alike too.

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WHAT’S NOW

INTO TH E GLOSS This instagram is a mash up of cool inspiration, latest products, great tips from beauty gurus and models showing you their bathroom beauty shelf. Beauty site Into The Gloss’ social feed is clean, cool and perfectly polished. But it’s not only the aesthetic here that is interesting, its followers give a great insight to what they like as products and how they like to interact with social networks.

# ITGTopShelfie

CULT B E AU TY The Cult beauty blog is of course a major destination for beauty passionates, and the instagram account is no different. The page gives great ideas on how to create visual content for your feed, shares the hottest releases and enables you to follow the coolest seasonal trends.

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WHAT’S NOW

L I S A E LDRI DGE Another highly influential makeup artist, Lisa Eldridge is at the forefront of the beauty industry. Her instagram account gives great tutorials and ideas for social media content.

With her Beauty book recently out, Facepaint, which traces back the history of some of the most iconic products, key facts on the industry and the evolution of beauty looks through the years, her instagram has become an encyclopedia on skincare and makeup. A fun yet educational way of instagraming!

#thestoryofmakeup

PAT M CGRAT H One of the most influential makeup artists in the world, no other has done as many fashion shows, ad campaigns and editorial shoots than McGrath. By being such an important figure in the beauty industry, her influence is wide and strong, thus her feed is packed with trending concepts and up and coming beauty looks.

She basically sets all the beauty trends single handedly so her instagram is a go-to destination.

CRB Magazine issue N°5

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SUZ HOU

www.crbcosmetics.ch - www.intercos.com

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