View our digital magazine online at - www.madeira-life.net Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net | €4.50
Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net | €4.50
JUBILEE PORT FIT FOR A QUEEN Graham’s 1952 tawny port - chosen to commemorate the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee
Landscape gardener, Gerald Luckhurst, enthuses about Madeira’s special gardens
Gardens of Madeira
Destination Alentejo Summer 2012 | www.madeira-life.net | €4.50
Herdade dos Grous – a boutique hotel – a place of rest, contemplation and enjoyment
Doyenne in the nursing home world Mary Cornelius-Reid - icon in both the Algarve and Southern England
WIN A LUXURY HAMPER of fine products from Herdade dos Grous
View our digital magazine online at - www.portugal-life.net
The Mayor of Funchal, Dr. Miguel Albuquerque, discusses his two passions - the island of Madeira and his rose collection
Exclusive Interview Summer 2012 | www.madeira-life.net | €4.50
& PORTO SANTO
OU ULD Y
AT YO
Madeira Wine Lodge Loja dos Vinhos
Armazém do Sal
The Residence****
Casa Abrigo do Poiso
Eden Mare****
Do Forte
Porto Mare****
Mozart
Porto Bay Serra Golf****
Pão Vinho e Petiscos
Casa Velha Palheiro*****
Leitão da Serra
Quinta Bela Vista*****
Churrasqueira Central
Cliff Bay*****
Cidade Velha
Meliã Madeira Mare*****
RESTAURANTS
HOTELS
SHOPS Story Centre Palheiro Golf Santo da Serra Golf
Blandy Travel Porto Santo Line
TRAVEL AGENCIES
Madeira Explorers Bonita da Madeira Catamaran da Madeira
LEISURE
Our Madeira Partners:
Sixt rent a car MadPoint rent a car
CAR RENTAL
Book online at www.fidalguia.pt, where you can find out more about the fleet, the exclusive tourism routes and other information on the company’s services and products. Alternatively if you like to speak to someone, to discuss what you need, or get some advice or prices, you can call: Mary Anne Popoff on 07712 106395 or Email mapopoff@live.co.uk
SCAT Jazz Club
In 2011 and 2012, Fidalguia was awarded the prestigious Publituris Award for “Best Transfer Company”,for its high levels of service. These services can include a full concierge style service to book any arrangements that you may need or places that you would like to visit whilst you are in Portugal. Whatever the purpose of the trip, comfort and safety are always the company’s hallmark, ensuring you an exclusive and personalized level of services. The team of welltrained drivers are available 24hrs a day, speak several languages, can meet you at the airport, and take you wherever you want to go…..throughout Portugal!.
Estalagem Do Vale****
The diversity in types of vehicles, together with stringent training of the chauffeurs, has enabled Fidalguia to satisfy the most demanding customers, in Portugal and throughout Europe – be it the “Car at your Service” for business or practical purposes (meetings, shopping, etc); Transfers to any destination, namely airports, where personal assistance is required; or Fidalguia’s own “Circuits and Tours” for couples or group trips. Golf groups also enjoy this service, which can make a short break so much easier and more enjoyable!
Vinhos Barbeito
According to Nuno Costa, Fidalguia’s CEO, “2012 has been a truly memorable year for us. Apart from celebrating our 15th birthday as a company, we hit the 2 million euro turnover watermark”. He added “It is very encouraging to see that the investment we made in marketing, infrastructure and human resources has enabled us to surpass even the most optimistic scenarios in our business case, especially considering these troubled economic times. We have overcome challenges with creativity and uncompromising levels of service, unstintingly meeting our clients’ needs and ambitions” he said.
Hotel Porto Santo****
Fidalguia, a rental company of premium, chauffeur-driven cars, has just announced the addition of 15 new cars to its fleet. An investment of over half a million euros, in order to keep up with the growth in business and to ensure it keeps its palace as leader and innovator in the premium private transport sector.
Torre Praia****
Portugal’s leading company of premium, chauffeur-driven cars presents its new fleet and international expansion to the United Kingdom and the United States of America
SPAR (Grocery Stores)
R A CA
ICE? V R E UR S Orca Praia***
WO
LIKE
INTRODUCTION | PORTUGAL LIFE & TRAVEL www.portugal-life.net
W
View our digital magazine
Publisher Peter Callaghan - peter@callaghangroup.com +44 (0)1935 881 762
online at - www.madeira-
life.net
l-life.net | €4.50 Summer 2012 | www.portuga
Associate Editor Mary Wilson - mary.wilson@callaghangroup.com +44 (0)1983 525 300 Lisbon Editor Mark Harding - mark@callaghangroup.com +351 933 343 369
l-life.net | €4.50 Summer 2012 | www.portuga
JUBILEE PORT FIT FOR Graham’s 1952 tawny port
Design & Production Phil Harding - phil@callaghangroup.com +351 916 606 226 Luckhurst, Landscape gardener, Gerald special gardens enthuses about Madeira’s
-life.net | €4.50 Summer 2012 | www.madeira
& PORTO SANTO
Publishers - The Portuguese Golf Club Limited The Old Chapel, Norton sub Hamdon Somerset TA14 6SG +44 (0)1935 881 762 www.callaghangroup.com The Callaghan Group Peter Callaghan - peter@callaghangroup.com +44 (0)1935 881 762 Andrew Callaghan - andrew@callaghangroup.com +44 (0)7831 316 565 Geoff Hedges - geoff@callaghangroup.com +44 (0)7501 256 947 Angela Semmons - accounts@callaghangroup.com Lisbon office: Amoreiras Torre 3 5 Piso 511, 1070-271 Lisbon Portugal Media Consultants Algarve: Maxine Marshall - maxine@callaghangroup.com +351 916 984 210 Lisbon: Jonathan Elms - jonathan@callaghangroup.com +351 916 772 299 Lucilia Guerreiro - lucilia@callaghangroup.com +351 917 813 574 Distribution Foremost Golf in association with Retail Tribe www.foremostgolf.com
a-life.net | €4.50 Summer 2012 | www.madeir
hotel – a place of rest, Herdade dos Grous – a boutique t contemplation and enjoymen
Miguel Albuquerque, The Mayor of Funchal, Dr. - the island of discusses his two passions Madeira and his rose collection
Exclusive Interview
Golf Consultant Stuart Masson - stuart@callaghangroup.com +44 (0)7967 564 033
A QUEEN
the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee
Destination Alentejo
Gardens of Madeira
Financial Property Consultant Simon Perks - simon@perks-pfs.com +44 (0)1738 905 67 or +44 (0)7780 501 548
- chosen to commemorate
Doyenne in the nursing home world
Mary Cornelius-Reid - icon
in both the Algarve and Southern
elcome to the Jubilee summer issue of Portugal Life and Travel. We very much hope that you enjoy the delightful black and white photographs of Her Majesty’s State visit to Portugal in 1985. This issue contains a variety of contrasting articles. The main interview is with a very good friend of mine Mary Cornelius-Reid. I have admired Mary’s work for many years and it is particularly rewarding to see the growth of Monte da Palhagueira nursing home in the Algarve.
England
My special thanks to Katya Bauval for organising my memorable visit to l-life.net online at - www.portuga Herdade dos Grous, which was both View our digital magazine enlightening and enjoyable. The article Front cover image: Courtesy of Vila Vita Parc and the photographs hopefully will encourage you to pay a visit to this delightful resort in the Alentejo. The front cover photograph evokes the ambience of the region WIN A LUXURY HAMPER dos of fine products from Herdade
Grous
Shirley Booth’s article on olive oil is extremely interesting. After reading this I am sure you will appreciate the amount of work that goes into the production of olive oil. The meeting with Constantino Jordan was particularly interesting. His recently formed group’s aims and objects are particularly important as Portugal, like other countries in Europe is facing difficult times. It is encouraging to see signs of recovery in a proactive way. The country needs tourism and investment in order for it to recover and thrive once more. I was delighted to meet with Dr Thomas Kaiser at Vale de Lobo Medical Centre who offers superb medical support to the area. Central Region & Porto
My thanks, once again go to Mary Wilson who has worked tirelessly on this edition and the Callaghan Group welcome Maxine Marshall who has recently been appointed as the Development Manager for the Algarve. Once again I am sure you will agree that the design work that has gone into this production is of the highest standard and I am so grateful to Phil Harding for his enthusiastic dedication.
The Portuguese Chamber of Commerce www.portuguese-chamber.org.uk Portugal Life & Travel is published 3 times per year and distributed to all Foremost golf club members throughout the UK. It is also published on-line at www.portugal-life.net Disclaimer: The publisher cannot accept responsibility for omissions or printing errors. All prices, conditions and facts are correct at the time of going to press. The publisher reserves the right to refuse any material used in Portugal Life & Travel magazine in any format or medium. Reproduction of any part of this magazine is strictly forbidden. Copyright: The Portuguese Golf Club Limited 2012 ISSN 1758 - 1494
Lisbon Blue Coast Estoril & Cascais West Region
PORTUGAL
Azores
Peter Callaghan Publisher - Portugal Life & Travel Western Algarve
Central Algarve
Eastern Algarve
Madeira
| www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2012 | 3
PORTUGAL LIFE & TRAVEL | CONTENTS
Contents... 6
A Port Fit for a Queen | JUBILEE PORT
To celebrate the Diamond Jubilee of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, W. & J. Graham’s and Berry Bros. & Rudd have joined forces to offer a very special port to the UK market.
10 A PASSION EXTRAORDINAIRE | Mary Cornelius-Reid The doyenne of nursing and retirement homes talks about her life and career.
14 DOURO | THE RIVER OF GOLD
6
The Douro is a complex river. It’s like the Portuguese – secretive, fascinating and charming in parts! There’s a great port city at one end, and Spain at the other. In between... well, come and see.
18 MAX FEWTRELL | POLE POSITION Peter Callaghan meets a young pretender – karting champion, Max Fewtrell.
22 CONSTANTINO JORDAN | Algarve Come & Live Here! Constantino Jordan, property and tourism investment advisor, talks about the campaign ‘Algarve Come and Live Here’.
24 Dr. Thomas Kaiser | INTERVIEW Dr. Thomas Kaiser explains the future of health tourism in the Algarve
14
26 Monte Rei | Perfect Days Lana Wrightman spends a weekend at the Eastern Algarve’s most prestigious resort.
30 ALGARVE ON YOUR PALATE | THE VERY BEST OF THE EAST Ben Taylor reviews three of his favourite restaurants in Eastern Algarve
34 LUXURY HOTEL | CARMO’S BOUTIQUE Maria Luisa do Carmo and her daughter, Raquel have created a delightful hotel near Ponte de Lima.
38 OLIVE OIL | THE VALLEY OF THE WOLVES An historic olive oil is revisited in the most tranquil of locations - The Valley of Wolves.
44 Sea School | Learning to Handle a Boat If you want to learn to sail or handle a motor boat, then what better place to do than on the Algarve?
18
48 Herdade dos Grous | Crane’s eye view Peter Callaghan visits Vila Vita Parc’s sister resort Herdade dos Grous in the Alentejo.
52 Rental market | RENTAL POTENTIAL The Portuguese rental market is growing from strength to strength. Mary Wilson finds out why.
55 Rental market | PROPERTIES FOR RENT A selection of properties available for rent this summer.
56 Moneycorp | Foreign Exchange Find out why using a foreign exchange company makes sound financial sense. 4 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
24
CONTENTS | PORTUGAL LIFE & TRAVEL
58 SIMON PERKS | Property Comment Property consultant, Simon Perks, discusses the Portuguese sales market.
59 PROPERTY SPOTLIGHT | Property FOR SALE Mary Wilson reviews a selection of property for sale this summer.
60 EVENT | Portuguese Chamber of Commerce Conference 2012 Residential Tourism – The future strategy.
62 FEATURE REPORT | THE ANGLO-PORTUGUESE SOCIETY
26
The Anglo-Portuguese Society has been promoting Portugal since 1938 and is still going strong.
64 GOLF | FEATURED COURSE - MONTADO GOLF RESORT A true golfers paradise.
66 GOLF | THE PORTUGAL GOLF CLUB An introduction to the Portugal Golf Club, the largest of its kind in Europe.
70 Restaurants and Businesses | BUSINESS REVIEWS Find out more about where to go, what to do and what to eat and drink in the Algarve
75 LATEST NEWS | TRAVEL & TOURISM A roundup of all the most recent developments in Portugal’s travel and tourism sector.
34
38
44
48
64 | www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2012 | 5
Congratulations
THE PORTUGAL LIFE & TRAVEL TEAM CONGRATULATE HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN ON HER DIAMOND JUBILEE. WE ARE EXTREMELY GRATEFUL TO GRAHAM’S IN ALLOWING US TO PUBLISH TWO OF THEIR HISTORIC PHOTOGRAPHS OF HER MAJESTY AND HRH PRINCE PHILIP’S VISIT TO OPORTO. HER MAJESTY HAS MADE TWO STATE VISITS TO PORTUGAL DURING HER REIGN. THE FIRST WAS TO LISBON IN 1957 and this photograph (below) was taken during her second visit, which included Oporto, in March 1985.
6 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
A Port Fit for a Queen | JUBILEE PORT
A Port Fit for a Queen To celebrate the Diamond Jubilee of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, W. & J. Graham’s and Berry Bros. & Rudd have joined forces to offer a very special port to the UK market.
| www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2012 | 7
JUBILEE PORT | A Port Fit for a Queen
G
raham’s 1952 single year tawny port has benefited from 60 years of ageing in oak casks and the result is a wine with a deliciously rich and intense flavour that any port connoisseur will appreciate. Simon Field, Master of Wine and port buyer for Berry Bros & Rudd describes it as follows: ‘striking mahogany, with hints of amber at its rim, the wine has an extraordinary aromatic intensity, redolent of old libraries, autumnal bonfires and distant poetry. The palate is profound and majestic, astonishingly intense and powerful, regal in its complexity, a timeless elixir’.
“It is not easy to find a wine of this quality and stature to celebrate and commemorate such an outstanding achievement. However, this Graham’s 1952 Tawny Port delivers in every respect. It’s a real treasure of a wine” says Johnny Symington, joint managing director of Symington Family Estates and whose family has been shipping port since 1652. The company is the oldest British port shipper and leading premium port producer and is still a family owned and run business after 13 generations. The family is the largest vineyard owner in Portugal, with approximately 1,000 hectares of vineyards in the Douro Valley. W. & J. Graham’s has remained an independent family business throughout its 200 year history, with an unrivalled collection of great estates. The family’s commitment to making exceptional wines has earned for Graham’s an acclaimed reputation as a leader in the production of consistently outstanding vintage ports, as well as fine old-cask matured ports. Graham’s is a true premium luxury brand and this 1952 Diamond Jubilee Tawny Port is one of the finest old tawny ports that Graham’s had produced in its 200 year history. “We are most fortunate and honoured that The Palace has given its approval to include the statement ‘To commemorate the Diamond Jubilee of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II’ on the label of this magnificent 1952 port” says Johnny Symington. The Symington family and Berry Bros & Rudd will be making a donation to charity from the proceeds of the sale of this port. “We have chosen a new charity that 8 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
Her Majesty has set up this year to mark her Diamond Jubilee” he says. “We will therefore be making a donation to the Queen Elizabeth Diamond Jubilee Trust”. The port will keep exceptionally well for many years in the bottle and once opened, it will continue to keep for several months in good condition. There is only a very limited amount of this wine available and it will be supplied in individually numbered bottles. Each bottle is presented in an individual gift box. A special pack of three bottles is also available, presented in a hand crafted oak box specially to commemorate Her Majesty’s Diamond Jubilee. For further information go to: www.grahams-port.com or www.symington.com To purchase a bottle of this celebratory port go to: www.bbr.com Tel: 0800 280 2440 or www.portfoliovinhos.pt Tel: 00 351 22 093 9586
The Symington Family
A Port Fit for a Queen | JUBILEE PORT
| www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2012 | 9
Mary Cornelius-Reid | A PASSION EXTRAORDINAIRE
A PASSION EXTRAORDINAIRE By Mary Wilson
M
ary Cornelius-Reid, A.M., M.B.E., is a remarkable woman. She has a drive and passion that has remained with her since she was a young woman, sustaining her for 40 years as she confronted and overcame a host of seemingly un-surmountable problems to develop a highly successful nursing home and retirement village business in the UK and Portugal.
“I heard that Amesbury Abbey, which was owned by Sir Philip Antrobus, was for sale. The house was on the market for £200,000, a good price as so many developers had turned it down because many of the flats were occupied by tenants, but I still didn’t think I could afford it. Still, I went ahead, borrowed the money and bought it anyway!” she says.
Mary started her career as a nurse in Winchester Hospital, but 40 years ago - in 1972 - having moved up the nursing ladder to the post of Night Sister, she left the NHS as she had become disgruntled with the way it was being run and decided to try her luck in the private sector. “I was aware of the dire shortage of nursing homes in the UK and so started to look for a suitable property” she says. Never one to sit around for long, she went to the bank and borrowed the £46,000 to buy Winton House, a 19th century property built in Elizabethan style and set in 20 acres of formal gardens and parkland in Nether Wallop. She moved in with her husband, John and two young children in June and within a day of opening in November of the same year, two residents moved in with another nine more moving in only a few weeks later. “We lived in the top floor at first and gradually extended the nursing home, which was registered for 50 people” she says. As the nursing home filled up, the family had to move to the adjacent Coach House to make more room.
The Abbey, a Grade I listed mansion set in 35 acres of gardens and grounds in Amesbury, had originally been gifted to Jane Seymour by Henry VIII, but when Mary met Sir Philip, he was living in just a small part of the residence, as the rest of the building had been turned into 15 flats. When they took possession, there was a leak in the roof and only one bathroom between 10 flats on the top floor. She put in a few more bathrooms, moved some of the tenants from one floor to another and started by using just the ground and middle floors of the house as a nursing home. As the original occupants gradually left, she was able to utilise more of the building and now it is one of the most elegant nursing homes in the U.K.
In 1981, Mary decided she wanted to start a second nursing home and began looking for another suitable building.
10 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
“I expanded and expanded and then I started to build sheltered housing, which is my real passion and the reason I was awarded my MBE. I was one of first people to put housing in the grounds of a nursing home, with a guarantee that residents could move into the nursing home when they needed” she says. The Retirement Village at Amesbury is made up of 36 apartments and houses in the grounds and another six apartments within Amesbury Abbey itself. Amesbury Abbey
A PASSION EXTRAORDINAIRE | Mary Cornelius-Reid
The Abbey, a Grade I listed mansion set in 35 acres of gardens and grounds in Amesbury
| www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2012 | 11
Mary Cornelius-Reid | A PASSION EXTRAORDINAIRE
Monte da Palhagueira
Another feather in her cap was the creation of a memorial to units of the 2nd Australian Imperial Force, which were stationed at the Abbey during the Second World War. When she discovered that there was no memorial in London to these units, Mary decided there should be one at the Abbey and was awarded the Australian Medal (A.M) for her endeavours. “I feel that this is even more important than being given the M.B.E. for services to the community” she says. On the ground floor, there is a dedicated memorial to the serviceman from Australia and Canada who served in the war, with plaques of all the regiments, photographs, medals, awards and the most recent addition - a collection of brass shells recently discovered in a blocked drain! “People can come to visit, with prior arrangement. We show them around and include the Chinese Summer House, which I restored in the 1980’s”, she explains. The Summer House was originally commissioned by Charles, Duke of Queensbury in the 18th century and 12 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
so Mary duly arranged for the present Duchess of Queensbury to open it in 1986, in the presence of the Chinese Ambassador and his wife. The restoration received a Euro Nostra award for excellence. Not satisfied with two successful nursing homes in the UK, Mary found and bought a third in 1986 – Sutton Manor, in Sutton Scotney. This was the former home of Lord Rank, set in 60 acres of lawned gardens just a few miles from Winchester. Sutton Manor now comprises 27 individual nursing and six residential rooms within the mansion itself, with a further 37 apartments, cottages and houses in the grounds making up the retirement village. Unusually for retirement housing, the cottages are thatched and are always in high demand. Mary received the M.B.E. in 2000, but her proudest moment was the completion of St. Luke’s Church at Monte da Palhagueira, her beautiful retirement village and nursing home in Gorjoes, near Santa Barbara de Nexe. “The church was consecrated 12
years ago and is the only Anglican Church in the Algarve” she explains. Her love of Portugal started 34 years ago, when she and her journalist husband John, who died in 1997, started holidaying on the Algarve. They rented properties for a few years and then decided to buy a holiday home. They bought an old wreck, about 10 miles from Monte da Palhagueira, and fully renovated it. “John got to know many people in the area and everyone said, do please open a nursing home here. So we scoured the area and eventually found a derelict farmhouse in 22 hectares and set into the hillside and transformed it into the nursing home 20 years ago” she says. After the nursing home, Mary starting converting and building new houses for people to retire to and live in independently, as in the UK. The Village is now finished, surrounded by beautiful gardens and with a very successful restaurant, Le Marquis da Palhagueira, which was voted best in the Algarve by Diners Club magazine last year.
A PASSION EXTRAORDINAIRE | Mary Cornelius-Reid “I’ve recently put in new furniture, a new bar and chimney and it’s now very cosy with lots of antiques. The restaurant is run by a Dutch couple and is very good, having a first class reputation. Patients of the nursing home and village residents get a discount when they dine there and the managers will even take food to them if they are poorly” she says. “But it’s still very much my restaurant. I closed it to the public for the Diamond Jubilee, when we had a special menu and all residents were invited free”. There is also a tennis court, two swimming pools and of course, the church. Never one to stand still, Mary has put in permission for three more houses and would very much like to convert another building into six further units with parking. Her eyes light up as she describes her plans, which include a little coffee shop with a log fire, where people can come for
coffee in the morning with home-made cakes and essential shopping needs. The Amesbury Abbey Group, which was founded in 1972, is still owned and run by Mary Cornelius-Reid with her son, David and daughter, Naomi. Her other daughter, Dr. Rosemary Reid, who lives in New Zealand, is a partner in the business. And because of Mary’s passion for creating nursing homes and independent retirement homes side by side, in beautiful buildings in the most stunning surroundings in the UK or Portugal, it is possible for anyone over 55 to move in and know that, when they are older and maybe more infirm they can transfer into the nursing home without having to get to know new people, a new area and make new friends. A comforting thought. Three cheers in this Jubilee Year for Mary Cornelius-Reid, A.M., M.B.E.
Mary Cornelius-Reid
For further information contact: The Amesbury Abbey Group: 00 (44) 1962 760573 www.amesburyabbey.com Monte da Palhagueira 00 (44) 1962 760573 or 00 351 289 990900 www.retirementvillageportugal.co.uk
Top left: St. Luke’s Church, right: The Village, bottom left: Monte da Palhagueira lake view, right: Monte da Palhagueira gardens.
| www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2012 | 13
DOURO | THE RIVER OF GOLD
The River of Gold The Douro is a complex river. It’s like the Portuguese – secretive, fascinating and charming in parts! There’s a great port city at one end, and Spain at the other. In between... well, come and see. By Jonathan Elms & Lucilia Guerreiro
14 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
THE RIVER OF GOLD | Douro
F
irst, the statistics: it’s the third longest river in Iberia, after the Tagus and the Ebro, measuring 897 kilometres, 210 of which are in Portugal. It rises in the Urbión mountains of Soria province at 2000 metres, and flows into the Atlantic between Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia. There are 44 bridges, 16 in Portugal, three on the border and 26 in Spain, and five dams in the Portuguese sector, which is the only fully navigable stretch. That’s a good thing, because it’s the Portuguese Douro that is the most bewitching, memorable and beautiful.
When it comes to exploring the Douro, one company springs to mind: Douro Azul. Think of it as the catalyst, because not a lot floats on the river that they’re not involved in. They bow to no-one in enterprise, and they’re constantly striving for excellence, a characteristic of tourism in the North. The inspiration behind the company is Mario Ferreira, who learnt his trade in the hotels of London, and the cruise ships of the world. Founded in 1993 as Ferreira Rayford Turismo Lda., the company began with one ship, the Vista Douro. It now has 12, five of which are hotel ships, and two more of these are coming into service in each of 2013 and 2015. The Douro Spirit (2011) is the current flagship, and she is chartered to Uniworld River Cruises. She will be replaced by the Queen Isabel, a more classic but still luxurious Old World style vessel in 2013. It’s newest ship will be the Royal Barge, which DouroAzul acquired after the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee celebrations. The ‘Spirit of Chartwell’ will be in operation from the end of 2013. Other operators include Saga (Douro Princess), Manorhouses. com (Douro Cruiser), Page & Moy and Noble Caledonia. Returning to the market in 2013 are Viking River Cruises, with their new ship, the Vilking Douro, and AmaWaterways with the AmaVida. The latter also includes starting at Lisbon or Madrid for a three day visit before your seven day cruise. These ships are being built in the Navalria yard in Aveiro, so will be sister ships to Douro Spirit.
You may also cruise the Douro by the hour and by the day. Operators include Douro Azul themselves, Douro Acima, and Rota do Douro. They operate everything from modern cruise boats to traditional rabelos, the boats originally used to transport the wine barrels to the port lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia, though the latter now have engines, too. So, what’s to do? Apart from the spectacular scenery upriver, the city of Porto itself (more precisely its mediaeval and historic centre) has been a Unesco World Heritage site since 1996, five years before the same status was granted to the Douro Wine Region. It’s no part of this commentator’s brief to tell you what to do or see, but don’t miss a cruise under the six bridges, and take in a visit to the wine lodges in Vila Nova de Guia and a tasting. Upriver, of course, there are vineyards to be visited, ancient sites, monuments and palaces to be admired, the whole património unique to the area. The towns of Régua, Lamego and Vila Nova de Foz Côa are fascinating, and if you get the chance, drive from Sabrosa to Pinhão at harvest time, a unique and moving experience. You can take wine tours, cheese tours, chocolate tours, a cornucopia of gastronomy. In May/June, there is the unique opportunity to celebrate the cherry festival (douro cerejas), and there are food and local festivals throughout the year.
The Douro is the third longest river in Iberia, measuring 897 kilometres. There are 44 bridges, 16 in Portugal, three on the border and 26 in Spain.
| www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2012 | 15
DOURO | THE RIVER OF GOLD
The Douro winemakers have also cottoned onto the fact that there’s more to life than exporting port. Like their brethren in Alentejo, they have adapted modern viticulture techniques to their traditional grape varieties and processes to produce some truly impressive wines throughout the price spectrum. It’s also fun to seek out one of the surviving independent quintas, and taste a variety of their table wines and ports. It’s what the French do, and they know a thing or two about wine. If you’re cruising though, reserve some cargo space, and if you’re on wheels, take a van. It’s worth it; seriously! Then you can stock up on vinho verde, too. 16 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
You can stay on the Douro in anything from 5 star sumptuousness (Quinta da Romaneira, Aquapura Douro Valley, the Yeatman) to pensoĕs and hostels. There are rural and urban B&Bs (Turismo em Espaço Rural, Turismo de Habitaçāo), Pousadas, and, of course the hotel ships. If you wish to stray further afield, there’s golf at Porto GC, Estela GC, Amarante and Ponte de Lima, and surfing at Matosinhos, Praia Azul and Vila do Conde. You can ride in the Parque Nacional de Peneda Gerĕs, and there are equestrian centres at Pico de Regalados and Ponte de Lima.
The latter is on the Caminho do Santiago, the alternative Portuguese route to Compostela from Sé Catedral in Porto through Minho and Galicia. It’s only 227 kilometres long, compared to the 800 kilometres of the French route, but much hillier. We’re reliably informed, though, that the food and accommodation is better! So, there you have it: one river, much history, and many lifestyles. In a future issue, we’ll report on an actual cruise. Meanwhile, visit if you can, and enjoy another aspect of Portugal’s bounty.
Sunvil Azores advert
MAX FEWTRELL | POLE POSITION
The need for speed! Peter Callaghan meets a young pretender – karting champion, Max Fewtrell
18 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
POLE POSITION | MAX FEWTRELL
D
uring a recent stay at Vila Vita Parc on the Algarve, I got into conversation with a most delightful couple Paul and Louise Fewtrell, who in turn introduced me to their two sons, Max aged 12 and Theo, 9.
It was during the conversation I asked Max what he wanted to do when he grew up, and to my surprise came the answer – become a Formula 1 racing driver. Perhaps a lot of boys of his age would answer in the same way but, as his father pointed out, he became the Asian Open Karting Champion aged 10 and so he is likely to be just that! The family was in the Algarve, visiting the racing circuit at Portamao where he hopes to test drive one of his karts later this year. It was obvious I needed to know more, after all how many people are lucky to meet a Formula 1 champion in the making. It is interesting to note Sebastian Vettel got into his first go-cart in 1995 when Max was just 4 years old. I wanted to find out just how do you become a world champion-racing driver. We read of people who achieve fame; but I am lucky to have got to know this first hand from Max himself, his first formal interview, a real delight for me. He was born in Birmingham in 1999 but his early years were spent in Singapore, where his parents were working. Max does have memories of his first play school in Birmingham, and of his first yellow and purple plastic trike. Louise reminded him that before he could walk, he would spend time sitting on the marble floor of their home, spinning the wheels of his upturned push chair, so from a very early age, he has loved wheels! One day in Singapore when he was just 9, he went with his mother Louise and some other friends to a go-kart circuit for the day. What followed was to change his young life forever. He went to that circuit day after day during the holidays. It was here his mind was made up – he was going to be a Champion. I don’t think I have ever met a boy with such focus – his eyes are fixed on nothing else; how refreshing to see that in someone so
young these days. Terminatio et Cupido (Determination and Desire) could easily be his motto for the future. One of the challenges is how Max balances working at his studies and at his sport. His days are equally divided between studying and training. Prior to July last year, Max was commuting from Singapore to Italy every two weeks for training. Understanding that regime could not last, Louise and Paul decided to move back to the UK and settled in Berkshire to have a closer flight time to Italy and no jet lag. The alarm wakes him at 7.00 am and he is collected and taken to the gym by his trainer, Gary Catt. His gym routine was exhausting to listen to – centering on circuit training, hand/ eye coordination and general fitness. Max has to tune into this vigorous and strict discipline, but you can tell he revels in it. Once home he awaits the arrival of his tutor Zayn at 11.00am, six days a week. His home studies last until 3.00pm and it is during these ‘one to one’ tuition sessions Max studies English, Maths, Physics and Biology. He particularly loves the science experiments Zayn sets him. The routine is interrupted every two weeks when Max travels to Italy with his mentor Gary to train on the track. He has all day sessions on the track covering all aspects of driving, testing the engines and with a camera fixed to the car so he is able to replay his day’s drives. Testing the karts is very exhausting, however Max enjoys every aspect of training. Three days of intense racing in heats culminate in a final. Gary told me “Max has a mind set to win. He has a lot of potential and has a great deal of grit and determination. While we are in Italy, he is learning a lot of other social skills and is without doubt, enjoying being a boy in a man’s world”. None of his success seems to have gone to his head and he is able to show his emotions. Gary, who is his trainer, coach and mentor, told me it is a role he really enjoys and it is made so much easier by Max having such supportive parents, who in no way interfere with his teaching. Gary is left to discipline and train him; his parents are by his side to support him. | www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2012 | 19
MAX FEWTRELL | POLE POSITION How does Max relax? Well, he is no great reader and he enjoys what a lot of other 12 year olds do – trampolining, and playing with his brother. I did ask what Theo wanted to do when he grew up – follow his brother? No, he replied, I want to play rugger for England!! With the concentration his eyes, he will soon be seen training at Twickenham! Interestingly, Theo is in no way jealous of his older brother travelling abroad each month, all he does ask at meal times occasionally if the subject of karting could be changed to his favorite sport! When we spoke of trophies Max told me in his bedroom there is a cabinet with the 28 he has collected since he began in 2009, so not bad for four years. It is easy to forget when you are speaking to this confident boy that he is so young, He has an addiction for speed, he knows what adrenaline is. To hold up the Asian Open Karting Championship must have been such a proud moment for him, Louise and Paul. On the question of hobbies, Max told me he had three - all of them included wheels
Max Fewtrell (left) in the pit
20 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
– all types of motor sports, cycling and radio controlled cars. On the question of fear, I thought perhaps it was overtaking on the inside or driving at top speed, but Max’s fears are actually spiders and snakes. He went on to tell me his idol is the great Fernando Alonso, who was just 10 years old when Max was born. There is much in common with these two champions, Alonso as a child participated in karting competitions throughout Spain supported by his father. Paul Fewtrell is not only his proud father and his sponsor; he is someone to whom Max looks for guidance, yet he has never pushed him into the sport. What a difficult line to take – supporting and encouraging yet not interfering, perhaps all fathers should take note of this superb partnership. As Max grows older and wiser, I am sure every bend and chicane he takes in life, he will take in his stride. After all don’t forget his motto… Terminatio et Cupido.
POLE POSITION | MAX FEWTRELL
Max has a mind set to win. He has a lot of potential and has a great deal of grit and determination.
| www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2012 | 21
CONSTANTINO JORDAN | Algarve Come & Live Here!
Algarve Come & Live Here! Constantino Jordan, property and tourism investment advisor, talks to Peter Callaghan about the campaign ‘Algarve Come and Live Here’.
A
n informal working group of companies have recently commenced a campaign for people to consider residing in the Algarve. It was a natural progression for a destination which commenced with tourism, moved on to people buying a holiday home and then to residential tourism. Constantino now believes this will move forward to full time residency. As the Algarve is shortly to receive 4G broadband it becomes an obvious place for people to be able to use their home as a place to live and a place of work.
This civic movement, as Constantino calls it, has already attracted the attention of the municipalities throughout the region and two, São Bras and Tavira, have joined already. The campaign which features on Facebook and www.algarvecomeandlivehere.com is growing daily and people are beginning to understand that remote working is becoming a mainstream for businesses. No longer have we to consider it necessary to become office bound in a city. According to a recent study by Eurostat, the European official statistics agency, overall prices in Portugal were lower than average prices throughout the 27-member European Union. Taking all products together, costs in Portugal were 13% lower than average and 16% lower than the UK. With the benefit of low cost carriers arriving from many destinations in the UK to Faro every hour the cost of commuting to a UK city on a monthly basis from Faro is far less expensive 22 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
than an annual commuter UK season rail ticket. This collective action group is keen to make people aware that there are many opportunities now to reside in the Algarve on a permanent basis enjoying all the attractions it has to offer. Seniors are as well increasingly aware of the big improvements in health services. Three new and modern private hospitals have even pushed the Algarve to being a destination for health tourism. A recent visitor to Loule stated that they intended to return to purchase a property in the region as they found the constant inclement weather in the UK was just too depressing. Anne Darlington, a resident for over 20 years, who represents the Portuguese Chamber of Commerce, says ‘this proactive campaign is exciting and innovative’. Moving to the Algarve would be no different from moving from the North to the South of England. With modern technology working ethics have changed considerably. With the ever-increasing popularity of Skype it is now possible to have conference calls at any time with Portugal being the only country in Europe on the same time zone as the UK. Working in the sunshine beats the drudgery of commuting. Perhaps this campaign should be Algarve Come, Live and Work Here! For more information contact: Constantino Jordan Property & Tourism Investment Advisory Email: info@constantinojordan.com
Algarve Come & Live Here! | CONSTANTINO JORDAN
| www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2012 | 23
Dr. Thomas Kaiser | HEALTH TOURISM
Prevention is better than the cure! Peter Callaghan has an appointment with Dr. Thomas Kaiser
24 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
Rosemary Conley and Dr. Thomas Kaiser
HEALTH TOURISM | Dr. Thomas Kaiser
D
uring all of my visits to Portugal over many years, I have never had reason to visit a doctor. My appointment with Dr. Thomas Kaiser in his Vale do Lobo surgery was a total delight; he is perhaps one of the most charismatic doctors I have ever met.
He heads a brilliant team of 25 at the Vale do Lobo Medical Centre where he is also the Director of the leading private hospital´s casualty department in Faro, the Hospital Particular do Algarve. Dr. Kaiser is a specialist in family medicine. He graduated in his native Germany and has additional qualifications gained in the U.S.A and at St. Georges Hospital in London. He brings a truly international experience to the Algarve, having worked in Chicago and at the Sloan Kettering Cancer Centre in New York. After spending time as a junior doctor in Switzerland, he was a partner in a well-established practice in Reigate, Surrey for seven years. He is a firm believer in prevention rather than cure and says now is the right time to raise awareness of the importance of taking a long-term view of health and well being. “The Algarve is a fabulous place for living a healthy life”, he told me “with the sunshine, the clean, fresh air and all the ingredients for the typical healthy Mediterranean diet, it is the perfect setting”. It is Dr Kaiser´s vision for the next ten years to turn the Algarve into a destination for health tourism. He feels the facilities in the Algarve are now as good as anywhere in Western Europe, and the access is much quicker and personal.
the response to any medical situation is unheard of in the nationalised health systems in the rest of Europe and even if you have a BUPA insurance in London you could not expect to be treated quicker and with any better quality.
The cost of medical care is extremely competitive; he told me the cost of a total hip replacement including a 10-day spell in a private hospital would be in the region of £8,000. I understand the cost of diagnostic and therapeutic procedures is also very competitive. Private nursing care is also much more reasonable than in the U.K., with the average cost of a private nurse being less than £10 per hour. The Hospital Particular group have made Dr. Kaiser the lead physician in the field of international medicine and the expectations are that soon more and more patients will be seen from all over the world in the Algarve’s five star facilities. It was interesting to learn Dr. Kaiser has several patients at the Monte da Palhagueira Nursing home which is owned by Mary Cornelius-Reid, whose interview appears on page 10. I was very surprised to learn how much less expensive Private Health insurance is in Portugal. It may not be generally known that it is about 50% less than in the UK. The team of experienced medical professionals at the Vale do Lobo Medical Centre and in the Hospital Particular offer an unrivalled range of treatments and therapies for residents and visitors alike. The hospital has a team of specialists including interventional cardiologists, vascular surgeons, cosmetic and plastic surgeons, specialized nutritionists and gastroenterologists alike. Dr. Kaiser told me his team can respond to any emergency and that all medical fields are covered with well known specialists. The speed and comfort of
After he moved with his family to the Algarve 12 years ago in search of the sun, he dedicated himself to development in the area of preventative and anti-aging medicine at the highest level. Another practical example of working to his goal Dr. Kaiser cohosted a health week with the UK fitness and diet icon, Rosemary Conley, in Vale do Lobo. He also developed a successful cosmetic medicine clinic where he treats patients from all over the world with the latest state of the art aesthetic medicine methods. I was very interested to learn more about health check clinics he organises at Vale do Lobo. Preventative MOTs are rare in the UK and very expensive, so where better to have your health check carried out while you are relaxing in the Algarve and to have your personal check up tailored to your needs. A total body scan is possible, something perhaps we should all have done every five years or so. Dr. Kaiser explained to me once he and his team have fully understood your medical history, he can advise which tests and examinations can be organised. After the tests have been completed you are presented with your Health Action Plan, which you receive in writing and as it is a pro-active scan, precise goals and actions plans can be discussed. Costs vary for these scans vary between £400 to £800. This represents excellent value for money and is a fine example of Health Tourism. For more information, contact Family Medical Centre - Quinta do Lago: Tel: +351 289 398411 Family Medical Centre - Vale do Lobo: Tel: +351 289 398009 www.family-medical-centre.pt | www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2012 | 25
Monte Rei | Perfect Days
Perfect days start at Monte Rei Lana Wrightman spends a weekend at the Eastern Algarve’s most prestigious resort.
26 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
Perfect Days | Monte Rei
N
estled in the unspoilt countryside of the Eastern Algarve is one of the area’s most spectacular new developments. Monte Rei, an exclusive and luxury resort, opened just five years ago but already it has been voted ‘Best Golf Resort in Portugal’ by Golf Monthly and ‘Best Golf Course in Portugal’ by Top 100 Golf Courses. It is not difficult to see why the resort attracts such accolades. As soon as we pull up in front of the beautiful clubhouse at the centre of the resort, a valet comes to attend our car and directs us into the elegant and welcoming Clubhouse that is the perfect place to relax, eat or shop.
The Grill restaurant offers stunning views over the Jack Nicklaus Signature Golf Course and the Atlantic Ocean at a distance. As we sit on the terrace, a friendly waitress soon arrives to bring us refreshments and light snacks. The service is efficient and the food delicious, although we are trying not to over indulge as we have reservations this evening at the Vistas restaurant, one of the region’s best dining establishments headed by award-winning chef Jaime Perez, formerly of El Bulli. Reluctantly leaving the comforts of the terrace, we venture to the Pro Shop while
we wait for our tee time. A host of designer brands are on offer and the shop oozes refinement with its oak shelving, glass fronted displays and tiled floors. We choose a couple of Monte Rei branded polo shirts as a memento of our day before heading to the practice area. Pyramids of golf balls await us and we are encouraged to practice our swing on the well appointed practice facility. When our tee time finally arrives, we find our buggy equipped with towels, chilled water, tees, 3D course guide and our clubs, and we are kindly escorted to the first tee by a smiling member of staff.
| www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2012 | 27
Monte Rei | Perfect Days
David Shepherd, Monte Rei’s director of golf, is guiding us through the course today and we are soon grateful for his advice. The 72 par course is challenging but breathtaking. The Golden Bear has worked with the contours of the terrain to create a beautiful course that is truly one of the best we have played. Each hole has four tee positions to ensure a memorable experience for every level of golfer, and even though we know we are one of several groups on the course today, we are never made to feel rushed thanks to the
28 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
generously staggered tee time intervals of at least 12 minutes. We rarely catch a glimpse of the group behind us and when we do, they are on the distant horizon. The course is kept in tournament condition on a daily basis with well maintained greens, pristine bunkers and water hazards. Native plants are used throughout the course and views extend all the way to the Atlantic Ocean. Villas and plots surround the course they do not intrude upon the space but blend seamlessly into the landscape.
When our round finishes, we are greeted and presented with a souvenir Monte Rei bag tag before our clubs are whisked away to be cleaned. We head to the well-appointed locker rooms to collect our things before heading to our villa in the O Miradouro Village. These exquisite villas, built in the Algarvian vernacular boast four bedrooms, four luxury bathrooms, private gardens, terraces and swimming pool. Each of the homes sleeps eight adults and we are tempted to make use of the outdoor barbecue and dining facilities the following day.
Perfect Days | Monte Rei Our villa is adjacent to Veranda, the focal point of the O Miradouro village, which has a swimming pool, tennis courts, restaurant and bar, a gymnasium and spa facilities. We make massage appointments for tomorrow to help us recover from our golf exertions. Even though we booked a 4-bedroom villa, the resort features smaller villas, also elegantly appointed, for short term rentals which we may consider on a future occasion. We feel privileged to be able to benefit from all the comforts and space of a private home whilst benefiting from all the services of a luxury hotel, including high quality bathrobes and slippers, Molton Brown toiletries, daily maid service and turndown in the evening. In-residence dining or a private chef is also available for an intimate meal or a function with guests. We feel this is the ideal location for a family holiday, with an array of outdoor activities on offer and, in less than 10 minutes drive, some of the most beautiful beaches in the Algarve, including the stunning islands of Cabanas and Tavira which are part of
the Ria Formosa Natural Park. With Seville just over an hour drive, we even consider venturing into neighboring Spain – about 10/15 minutes away - for a change of culture and ambiance. Wandering back to our villa, we have an aperitif by the pool before readying ourselves for our dinner at Vistas. We are just in time to see the sun set over the ocean before we stroll back towards the clubhouse. By now, the tranquillity of the day has given way to a buzzing atmosphere as golfers, holidaymakers and locals gather on the terraces to recap their day’s adventures. We strike up a conversation with a British couple who are here on holiday but with a view to buying one of the villas in the O Miradouro Village. They are considering whether to buy one of the four bedroom homes for €1.9 million or construct their own home on one of the villa plots with prices starting at €1 million. We envy their dilemma as our table is called.
Seated in the elegant surroundings of the Vistas restaurant, it is difficult to choose between the à la carte menu and the carefully designed tasting menu. Eventually we opt for the tasting menu and the wine list which matches a selection of Portuguese wines with each course. We are not left disappointed. Chef Jaime Perez has clearly taken the time to explore Portugal’s native ingredients to a delightful effect and each of the wines compliments its course perfectly. Each course is exquisite and satisfying, although by the end of the evening we struggle to eat the last few spoonfuls of our chocolate dessert… but somehow manage! As we leave the restaurant, the stars twinkle above our heads and we stroll back to our villa with memories of a perfect day in a perfect location.
Monte Rei Golf & Country Club Sesmarias, Apartado 118 8901-907 Vila Nova de Cacela Portugal Tel: +351 281 950 950 Email: info@monterei.com www.monte-rei.com
| www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2012 | 29
ALGARVE ON YOUR PALATE | THE VERY BEST OF THE EAST
The very best of the east Reviews by Ben Taylor
Brisa do Rio Rua Dr. Augusto Silva Carvalho 6 - 8 - Tavira Tel: +351 281 321 670
that all tourists want is fish or piri piri chicken, it is pleasing to see attention paid to duck and lamb.
When a restaurant is as consistently busy in the depths of winter as it is in peak season, it’s obviously a bit special.
To start, Brisa do Rio’s squid is my usual choice. Served in a slightly spicy sauce, it is beautifully tender and has stopped me from ordering squid anywhere else for fear it will be unable to compete. Other popular starters include my wife’s favourite, a generous plate of goats cheese with apple and honey, and piri piri prawns – large, juicy and not afraid to be as spicy as they really ought to be.
Brisa do Rio is found just steps away from Tavira’s Roman bridge and has a loyal following among locals and knowledgeable tourists. Its menu features classic Portuguese ingredients with a modern-European twist. The two young men who run the front-ofhouse deliver consistently amenable service, even when the restaurant’s popularity cause them to be rushed off their feet. They both seem to have an innate ability to remember their repeat customers.
Mains include a generous rack of lamb, split into cutlets and served, in a nod to the tourists, with a Portuguese interpretation of mint sauce. Various steaks are on offer too as well as fish dishes including seabass fillets with prawns and orange sauce and a notably good pork and clams.
The menu offers plenty of choice, with a good selection of fish and meat accompanied by two or three daily specials. In a town where restaurants often assume
Portions are generous, but not so much as to put diners off dessert! Chocolate and mango mousses are home made and heartily recommended!
30 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
The wine list is short but well considered and I personally recommend Barranco Longo, a rosé from the Algarve. Fruity and complex, it will please everyone at the table regardless of whether they are enjoying fish or meat. Pay no heed to Brisa do Rio’s unassuming exterior – this is one of the best restaurants in the town and well worth the possible queue outside.
THE VERY BEST OF THE EAST | ALGARVE ON YOUR PALATE
Vela 2 Santa Margarida, near Tavira Tel: +351 281 323 661 Known to many who visit us here in Portugal as “that fish place,” Vela 2 is truly special and a bargain-priced evening out. Vela 2 recently moved from its bursting premises in Tavira to a more spacious location in the village of Santa Margarida. The fact that this new “car-required” location has had no impact on its popularity speaks volumes for the quality of the food on offer. Aside from a small list beside the front door, Vela 2 doesn’t really have a menu. After being seated, diners are asked a simple question “peixe ou carne?” (fish or meat?) Everybody in the know asks for fish.
After potatoes, salad, bread and olives are provided, the fish begins to appear. It could be anything at all but usually includes bream and bass. All is simply cooked on a charcoal grill with plenty of salt. Sometimes, seemingly at random, the selection includes squid and octopus. If four of us are dining, the first delivery to our table usually consists of around eight flawlessly fresh fish. Once we have devoured approximately half, we are asked if we would like more. The waiting staff bring more fish until we beg them to stop. This is the Vela 2 experience. This is not a place to expect silver service. Obtaining additional wine requires a concerted effort to gain eye contact at busy times. When the bill arrives, you understand why – this beautiful fish comes at an incredibly low price – around ten euros per person. When one is ready
to leave, the bill is calculated in the proprietor’s head and the final figure scrawled on the paper tablecloth. As if Vela 2’s unique way of doing was not already enough, its new location has brought additional charms. The extra space allows the owners to better display their prized collection of Benfica merchandise and the rear terrace now doubles as a place to grow lettuce and tomatoes for the generous bowls of salad. Vela 2 is both a memorable experience and heart-warming proof that businesses can thrive in tough economic times. The owners deserve their success.
| www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2012 | 31
ALGARVE ON YOUR PALATE | THE VERY BEST OF THE EAST
O Infante E.N. 125 Altura, Castro Marim Tel: +351 281 956 817 Located just minutes from the Spanish border, O Infante caters to an assortment of locals, Spanish day-trippers and wellinformed tourists. Clearly visible from the N125, the restaurant overlooks the sands of Praia Verde and is popular with groups celebrating special occasions. I am pleased to say that its local reputation is well deserved. Service is accomplished and professional – O Infante is a place to dine and not simply a place to eat. While the large number of waiters may seem intimidating to early diners, this well-oiled machine is a pleasure to watch as the establishment begins to fill. Upon entering the restaurant, a large tank containing crabs and lobsters is visible. A large platter of shellfish 32 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
including these delicacies is one of O Infante’s signature dishes. The gargantuan platter for two includes lobster, king crab legs, prawns of various sizes and both mussels and clams, all accompanied by bread and fruity rice. The platter could really serve four, so anyone choosing it should prepare for a feeling of guilty decadence upon failing to finish every succulent morsel! The restaurant’s large menu also offers a number of meat dishes for sharing. On our last visit, however, I bypassed these to enjoy a one-person main course consisting of three fillet steaks with three sauces Expecting one steak divided into three, I was surprised and daunted to receive three generous slabs of meat, accompanied with béarnaise, peppercorn and mushroom sauces as well as chips, rice, green beans and delicately crispy onion rings. The same side dishes accompanied my wife’s
choice of lamb cutlets and both were flawless plates of food with meat cooked exactly as requested. Such generous main courses usually cause us to bypass dessert on our visits, but the menu offers typical Portuguese stables including chocolate mouse and molotov. The wine list is extensive and the usual Portuguese favorites are present and fairly priced. O Infante offers decent value. While shellfish is inevitably pricey, other options are priced competitively. My wife and I are happy to join the many others in the area who choose O Infante for their special occasions.
Ben Taylor has lived in the East Algarve for three years. When he’s not busy cooking, eating and enjoying the sunshine, he writes about Portugal, wine and cuisine for a number of publications and websites.
LUXURY HOTEL | CARMO’S BOUTIQUE
CARMO’S BOUTIQUE By Jonathan Elms & Lucilia Guerreiro
M
y number for today (apologies to financial journalist, Jeff Randall) is 834. That’s the number of days it took the remarkable Maria Luisa do Carmo, and her equally impressive daughter, Raquel, to create Carmo’s Boutique Hotel. Just think of it; in just 27 months (119 weeks) they bought a site, designed the buildings, gardens and amenities, secured planning and funding, and built and furnished this spectacular new edition to the Small Luxury Hotels of the World portfolio. They call Portugal the California of Europe, but that schedule would have been remarkable for can-do America, let alone Portugal, not renowned for the efficiency of its institutions. The stories of development projects stuck in the mire of officialdom are legion, so you know at the outset that this one will be remarkable. Dona Maria and Raquel are well-travelled women with a vision. They wanted to create something that would reflect the excellence and attention to detail that they had witnessed round the world, but in the setting of their beloved northern Portugal, with its unique ambience. So, Carmo’s is about romance, but also practicality. It’s about design, but uses furniture ‘that makes you want to use it’. It’s about quality, but, wherever possible, using Portuguese crafts and materials. So, for example, where a particular design was not available in Portuguese cotton, Egyptian was used instead. There is great individuality at Carmo’s, but with it, a homeliness that encourages you to mingle at table, share a drink, and explore the nooks and crannies that are full of charming touches. Carmo’s is situated just outside Ponte de Lima, the oldest town in Portugal, in Minho province. Ponte de Lima is also reputed to have the only Camara (council) in surplus in Portugal, and this prosperity is reflected in its well-kept squares and streets, its lively restaurants and shops, and some of the best festivals held anywhere in the country. Ponte de Lima is also on the Caminho do Santiago, and on the Roman footbridge you can sense the pilgrims that journeyed over the centuries on their way to Santiago de Compostela in neighbouring Galicia. Park by the river, and soak in the atmosphere.
The hotel is contained in two buildings at right angles, separated by a walkway that is scented by climbing shrubs and local flora. The first contains the beating heart of Carmo’s, a unique salão, of which more later, three luxury suites on the first floor, and the Spa and Aromatherapy below.
34 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
CARMO’S BOUTIQUE | LUXURY HOTEL
| www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2012 | 35
LUXURY HOTEL | CARMO’S BOUTIQUE In the second, there are 12 further prestige rooms on two floors. All the suites and rooms are individually designed and furnished to an exceptional standard. The layouts are unique, and breath-taking, but they are functional, too, and never compromise practicality for effect. The attention to detail and insistence on quality is apparent in the construction, the furnishings and the fabrics, and you luxuriate in their sumptuousness. Moreover, the whole project has been designed and built to the highest specification, including the latest ecofriendly techniques. In the Spa there’s a Ufuro Japanese bath, and an overflow heated pool. If you prefer, you can bathe in 100% goats’ milk or indulge in aromatherapy using 100% organic essential oils. The atmosphere in this area is relaxing and calming, of course, but it’s also open and welcoming with clever use of light and colour, and no sense of enclosure. Back to the salão. It is unique, and rather difficult to describe; part reception, part bar and restaurant, and part sitting-room. That hardly does it justice, though, because it’s
36 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
also part library, part gallery, part music room and part conservatory. It is truly the hub of Carmo’s (the kitchen and work areas are to one end), and does bring that feel of staying in someone’s home that is sought. You could spend your whole visit just discovering the books, pictures and craft work on display, but then you’d miss the wines, ports, and aguardentes. The furnishings alone demand your attention, but we must move outside. In front, there are terraces with views across the Lima valley to the mountains beyond. Wonderful to sit here before and after the heat of the day to enjoy the fruits of Carmo’s cellar and kitchen. The gardens behind are bounded by vineyards. Within the grounds is a solar-heated pool, a display ring for horse and music events with a grass terrace for viewing. There are shaded areas for quiet relaxation, and a paddock in one corner for the Shetland ponies, visiting horses, and the occasional kid goat, which is not used to supply the Spa! Carmo’s has its own horse-drawn carriage, and guests can ride down to the riverbank, and
enjoy the sights of the Eco-Via (Green Route). They can take in a vineyard, too, and with a picnic, maybe try their hand at catching the local lampreias (eels). Portugal is the home of the Lusitano horse, which can be seen and ridden at the local equestrian centre – Vale do Lima Riding Centre – which does an awful lot more than just teach riding, and is associated with the hotel. Naturally, food plays an important role at Carmo’s. They seek to guide you through the regional variations of Portuguese cuisine, which is everywhere based on the natural bounty of sea and land. Portugal is rightly renowned for its fish, but its meat and poultry is often under-estimated. Most pork is still produced organically, and features greatly in northern recipes. Moreover, the abundance of fruit and vegetables is second to none, again because much of it is produced on small scale farms, using traditional methods. Taste and smell are the keywords here, not appearance, not that Portuguese produce bows its head to any in quality. Also, unique to the local area is Sidra Lagoas (cider), a match for anything produced in Somerset or Normandy.
CARMO’S BOUTIQUE | LUXURY HOTEL
“The project has been designed and built to the highest specification”
Eating is always enhanced by environment, so at Carmo’s you can be refined or informal. Take your breakfast à la carte and al fresco, by the pool or in the garden. Dine on the terrace under soft lights, but off classic Vista Alegre porcelain and locally embroidered napery. You expect room service at an hotel, but here you can enjoy space service, too!
which includes visits to the Unesco world heritage sites at Porto, Guimarães and Santiago de Compostela. Lunches in Braga, Ponte de Lima, and Viana do Castelo, taking in historic buildings, quintas, manor houses and ancient villages. Each night, back at Carmo’s there is a themed dinner featuring vinho verde, Portuguese cheese and porco preto; olive oil and Minho smoked foods, and, of course, fish and seafood. These dinners are accompanied by wine tastings, and you can also try a sparkling sangria and local malt beer. The visit to Porto, includes a cruise on the Douro, and a visit to one of the famous port cellars. The programme culminates with a spectacular Lusitano Horse Night, a gala of Portuguese equestrianism.
All this is defined by a selective wine list, concentrating on the Douro and Dão regions of the North, and the Alentejo in the South, and featuring some lesser known gems like Crooked Vines and Vale de Poupa. Of course, there’s also a choice of the best vinhos verdes, Quinta do Ameal being one. The region of Bairrada is sometimes overlooked. In fact, it produces some very good espumantes (champagne type) wines. Filipa Pato is a young, up-and- coming winemaker, and her métode tradicional whites and rosés are a case in point. Drinking them in the ambient of Carmo’s is very appropriate.
On offer, too, is The Equestrian Experience, which includes riding and training at the Vale do Lima Centre, the themed dinners, and, naturally, the Spa and massage rituals.
Carmo’s is very proud of its programmes, offering guests a range of activities during their stay. There is the integrated programme,
There is also the Golf programme, playing on three local courses, visiting the sights, and enjoying the sumptuous hospitality of the
hotel and its facilities. Other programmes are in the pipeline, and they are available as short breaks or over weekly stays. In many ways, the word service sums up the Carmo’s experience. They pick you up and deliver you to the airport of your choice. Both Porto and Vigo are less than an hour away. Filipe is much more than front of house. He’s probably the most helpful major domo we’ve ever met, and Francisca and Opus are always courteously on-hand, adding colour and ease in their traditional dress. Then there’s the discreet, but pervading presence of Dona Maria. She’s living her dream, and is determined that visitors will enjoy every moment of their stay. Her dedication is inspiring, and her energy and eye for detail will ensure Carmo’s future. Get there before it becomes too popular. For further information go to: www.carmosboutiquehotel.com Tel: +351 914 715 989
| www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2012 | 37
OLIVE OIL | THE VALLEY OF THE WOLVES
OLIVE OIL NATURE’S ELIXIR
By Shirley Booth
AN HISTORIC OLIVE OIL IS REVITALISED IN THE MOST TRANQUIL OF LOCATIONS – THE VALLEY OF THE WOLVES
I
n the fertile countryside around Santarem, 70 kilometres north of Lisbon in the Ribatejo, lies the Quinta de Vale de Lobos, a 250-hectare farm now becoming famous for its estate-bottled olive oil. Olive oil was first made here by Alexandre Herculano, the famous Portuguese poet, novelist and chronicler of Portuguese history, who made his home at Quinta de Vale de Lobos in 1867, where he remained for ten years until his death, and where he wrote many of his most famous works. Like all writers, Herculano needed peace and quiet to do his best work, and this desire for solitude may also be why he never had children, although he did marry later in life. With no heirs, when he died Herculano’s house passed to his close friend Paulino da Cunha e Silva , and eventually to da Cunha e Silva’s great-grandson, the present owner, Joaquim Santos Lima. The Santos Limas were dispossessed, as were many landowning families, and fled into exile after the 1974 revolution, and it was only ten years later that Joaquim Santos Lima was able to return to Portugal to reclaim his heritage – which included Quinta de Vale de Lobos . By then, years of neglect had taken their toll on the estate and the Quinta was run down and dilapidated. Joaquim and his young wife Veronica set out to restore the Quinta to its former glory.
Since 2004, when they started marketing their oil, the Santos Lima family have been breathing 38 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
new life into the estate, whilst at the same time reviving the traditions of the past. For it was Alexandre Herculano himself that first gave the Quinta its reputation for fine olive oil. Herculano had a passion for Portugal and for agriculture, and he started to cultivate olive trees at the Quinta when he set up residence there. The oil he produced, and named Herculano, was the first branded olive oil in Portugal, and it won many awards – just as the oil that Joaquim and Veronica are producing today has. In 2010 and 2011 Joaquim Santos Lima’s oil won Gold in the UK ‘s prestigious Great Taste Awards, as well as Bronze in 2005 and awards in Germany, Italy and the USA. I first met Veronica Santos Lima at a Food Fair in London, when she introduced me to her award-winning Olive Oil, ‘Vale de Lobos’ and told me about its history. Since that time, I have always wanted to visit Quinta Vale de Lobos and when I did, as soon as I stepped from the car I immediately felt the peace and contentment that had so pleased Herculano. The mild winter air smelt clean and fresh, as the sun tried to peek through the 200 year old cedar tree which shadows the doorway. I also soon saw how Veronica and Joaquim make such a successful team. Veronica has a Masters in marketing from the US, and speaks fluent English. She’s a sociable people person, who loves the city. Joaquim is happiest when he’s with his olive trees. He knows all 150,000 trees, all 97 hectares of them, like a mother knows her babies.
THE VALLEY OF THE WOLVES | OLIVE OIL
| www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2012 | 39
OLIVE OIL | THE VALLEY OF THE WOLVES
In the family’s elegant dining room, the antique wooden table was laid with fresh crusty country bread, cheese from Azeitao, two types of olive oil, and of course a dish of freshlybrined olives. ‘Maybe they are not quite ready” apologised Joaquim, as he poured me a glass of his cousin’s wine from Casa Santos Lima in the Dao. The olives were this year’s harvest – and the freshest I’d ever tasted. “If you want to eat them earlier you have to cut the olives to allow the salt to penetrate” he explained. Joaquim likes to eat, and talk about, olives, but he was looking restless.
40 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
The Olive Groves ‘I’d go mad in four walls” he told me later as we walked through the groves. ‘I love the open space. Relativity is different in the countryside – time is different.’ And as I watched Joaquim, leaning against his mud-splattered Jeep, gazing contentedly across his fields, I knew what he meant.
that he grows five different varieties of olive, planted in two ways. Some groves are planted the traditional way – tall trees widely spaced. But, like Herculano himself a hundred years ago, Joaquim too is at the forefront of new developments. He has created groves of densely planted smaller trees, which allows for mechanised and costeffective harvesting.
As we strolled through the sun-dappled estate , the late winter sunshine casting long shadows, Joaquim explained to me
‘Fast picking means that you can pick at exactly the right moment, organoleptically speaking. Which is all good for the taste’.
THE VALLEY OF THE WOLVES | OLIVE OIL
“Quinta da Aveleda’s continuity and family involvement is crucial to the quality of the wines.”
And early picking also means the oil contains more health-giving anti-oxidants. With machine harvesting the olives are pressed within two hours of being picked. Although not yet certified Organic, the olives here are grown with a minimum of interference, and respect for the environment. ‘We are sensitive to nature and careful not to upset the equilibrium’. As we left the groves Joaquim stopped to pick a few stray olives left behind after the harvest, ‘you see –they are getting soft – this is how the birds love them’. Right on cue a bird settled on the branch above us. The trees exposed to the sun at the end of the row were already showing signs of new growth, but as Joaquim explained ‘this is an anxious time for us- do we get enough leaves, do we get enough fruit?’ As we drove back to the house through the wood, past cork oaks and pines, and huge chestnuts trees, I could imagine the land in Joaquim’s grandfather’s time after he had inherited the farm from Herculano in 1877: with the wild pigs rooting around in the undergrowth and gorging on the fallen acorns, giving taste to the ham which they would eventually become.
Tasting Back at the Quinta, Veronica had prepared a tasting. In the typical highceilinged Quinta a shaft of sunlight fell across the floor. Lined upon the table were several small glasses , each with a glass lid and a number written in felt tip pen. I took the first cup - it was warm - lifted the lid and an appley aroma enveloped my nostrils. I took a sip, it was slightly peppery, fruity and not bitter – all typical qualities of Arbequina. Number two had more of a lemon aroma, with a bit of tomato, less peppery. The third one was grassy again, but slightly bitter, and not so fruity. It was Cobrancosa – a typical Portuguese variety which is often blended with Arbequina. The tasting continued with Galega (banana and bitter), Blanqueta (apple), Piqual and finally this year’s secret blend. The blending of different oils requires skill, and Veronica explained that it’s the use of indigenous varieties that sets Portuguese oil apart, and creates something special -together with climatic conditions, soil, and method of extraction which all affect flavour and acidity.
The success of their oil has not been without hard work however, and the couple have been through some difficult times. The economic situation in Europe is a big concern, and last year Joaquim suffered serious illness, from which he is now in remission. Nevertheless, it has slowed him down and he tires easily, so he has had to delegate some of the more physical work to others; but it hasn’t diminished his love of the countryside and his olive groves. In fact his recovery has been remarkable, and perhaps this is because he loves where he is. As Joaquim told his doctor “You should send the other patients to my farm, and they will recover much more quickly”
Other Developments His illness also helped Joaquim discover other new projects ; a renewed interest in fresh, natural and healthy foods, using produce from their own garden, and making fresh bread daily – baked in the old bread oven that he recently renovated. Another thing that Joaquim is looking forward to is summer next year, when his cork trees , will be ready for harvesting. | www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2012 | 41
OLIVE OIL | THE VALLEY OF THE WOLVES
Situated in Palmela, 100 kilometres from Santarem, the 60 hectares of trees were also inherited from his great grandfather. Cork can be harvested only once every nine years, and in 2013 the thick bark will be ready for stripping. Fortunately as the price of olive oil has fallen so the price of cork has slightly improved. At the same time Veronica is creating new markets for her oil. She is soon to launch a range of olive oil-based beauty products. Mixing only her own cold-pressed olive oil with essential oils, using ancient recipes, the range will be aimed at the natural therapy market, with products to reduce hair loss and improve skin health. 42 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
As I said goodbye to Joaquim, it seemed to me that he had maybe inherited more than the writer’s estate – perhaps a part of his soul. I remembered something written by Herculano, that Veronica had translated for me:
”Looking at my trees gives me more pleasure than seeing the grandest buildings, museums, squares and monuments in all of Europe” Words that could have been written by Joaquim himself.
Contacts: Quinta Vale de Lobos Azoia de Baixo 2005-097 Santarem Tel: +351 243 429 264 www.valedelobos.com Veronica Santos Lima Email: quintavaledelobos@gmail.com Quinta Vale de Lobos oil is distributed in the UK by Atlantico Ltd Tel: +44 (0)20 8649 7444 Email: info@atlantico.co.uk www.atlantico.co.uk Portuguese Olive Oil Association Email: t.zacarias@casadoazeite.pt www.casadoazeite.pt
Introducing...
The Portugal Life Wine Club In association with the Daily Drinker
Exclusive Introductory Offer: Readers of Portugal Life & Travel Magazine can benefit from our introductory wine offer: 15% discount off a case of 6 specially selected Portuguese wines as shown below.
only ÂŁ75 including delivery (To mainland UK)
For more details of the Portugal Life Wine Club and to benefit from the introductory offer, please contact: Tel: +44 (0)1380 827291 Email: victoria@thedailydrinker.co.uk
www.thedailydrinker.co.uk
Sea School | Learning to Handle a Boat
Sailing the high seas By Mary Wilson
44 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
Learning to Handle a Boat | Sea School
I
f you want to learn to sail or handle a motor boat, then what better place to do than on the Algarve? You may not need to obtain qualifications in the UK to take out a sailing or motor boat, but in Portugal as in other European countries, it is a requirement to have the necessary competency certificate. There are a number of sailing schools on the Algarve, and one of the first to be started was by Martin Northey, who founded the first RYA (Royal Yachting Association) sea school in Portugal over seventeen years ago. He now runs the Iberian Sea School at Olhos de Agua near Vilamoura, where he offers both sailing, power boat and motor cruiser courses. Most of Martin’s clients come from the UK. Some live full time in Portugal, some have holiday homes and some come out just for the course. “Many of the people, who live here, will use their own boat to learn on, which I much prefer” says Martin. “People need to do a competent crew course, a day skipper course and a day skipper practical course to be able to take out a boat in sheltered waters. That’s three 5-day courses, although some people choose to do the practical course on-line”. Once they have the relevant certificate, they can of course use it anywhere in the world. “In Portugal, the sea is not rough and we are protected from the Atlantic swell, but you do need to know how to navigate. It’s a huge expanse of sea – not like the Solent between the south coast of England and the Isle of Wight, where many people learn to sail. There used to be a much bigger demand for motor boat courses, but that is changing because the cost of fuel has gone up so much. I have a client who came to me in 2009 and did a three day motor boat course giving him an ICC certificate (International Certificate of Competence) for Powerboat Level 2. Now he wants to take his ICC for sail” he says.
who have never sailed before to a 5 day Competent Crew course, which is suitable for complete beginners and people with just a little experience of sailing with friends. The latter costs €598, which includes an evening meal on the first night. The rest of the time they go out for their meals, with the client paying his or her own way. “They stay on the boat for five days and I give them breakfast too. We often get couples, which is nice” says Martin. Robert Harris has been running Algarve Boat Courses, which is based in Lagos, for the last 5 years. He teaches people how to handle jet skis, small speed boats and motor cruisers. For an introductory two day power boat course, with a maximum of three students, he charges €395. This includes the boat, the course, fuel and certificate. “You don’t need to have any experience to do this course. I sometimes try to persuade a client to do the course in three days, as it gives them more time to do a bit more. With this Level 2 certificate, you will be able to charter a boat and get started. I focus on teaching the basic skills, how to moor up the boat in a marina and basic safety skills, such as man overboard” he says.
“In Portugal, the sea is not rough and we are protected from the Atlantic swell, but you do need to know how to navigate. It’s a huge expanse of sea.”
Martin offers a variety of sailing courses from a two day Start Yachting course, which is a gentle introduction to sailing for people
| www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2012 | 45
Sea School | Learning to Handle a Boat
Rose and Peter Akers, with friend Phil Bull, took a three day Powerboat Level 2 course with Robert and thoroughly enjoyed it. “I was a bit nervous at the beginning” says Rose, who runs a plastic container manufacturing company with her husband in the Midlands. “Peter and I have an apartment in Lagos and we try to get out there for 10 days every 4 to 6 weeks and have been saying for a while how nice it would be to be able to take out a boat, but neither of us had any experience. We thought about doing the course in the UK, but the weather is so unpredictable we decided Portugal was the better place to learn”. Robert taught them how to handle the boat, how to moor it and tie it up and a little bit about navigation and plotting a course on the chart. With the Powerboat Level 2 certificate, they intend to hire a boat next time they are down and then eventually buy their own boat. “We just intend to run down the coast and visit other
46 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
harbours and it’s very nice to be able to go out and see a different vista of somewhere you know well” she says. Robert also offers Intermediate and Advance Day & Night powerboat courses. “The Intermediate course is more focussed on planning a longer journey, doing a passage to a strange harbour and navigation up to a certain level” he explains. The Advanced Day & Night course is more comprehensive with night work and handling the boat in rough weather. Motor cruising courses include an introduction course, 2-day Helmsman course and 4-day Day Skipper course, which can extend to 5 days if you do not have any navigational experience. For further information go to: www.algarveboatcourses.com or email: info@algarveboatcourses.com www.theiberianseaschool.com or email: martinnorthey@me.com
Between Heaven and Earth
Herdade dos Grous
At Herdade dos Grous you can enjoy a moment of peace away from daily routine.
Albernôa · 7800-601 Beja Alentejo · Portugal +351 284 960 000 herdadedosgrous@vilavitaparc.com
Allow your senses to be awakened by the uniqueness of nature, tradition and local charisma. Feel the Alentejo‘s kind breeze and a silence that will only be broken by a bird‘s chirping. End the day with the most magical colours that this region‘s sunset offers.
http://www.herdadedosgrous.com
At the Herdade dos Grous Restaurant, traditional delicacies become sophisticated, with organic products from the Herdade, in an elegant atmosphere. Complement this moment with our „Herdade dos Grous“ wines, produced by us and rested in our cellars. You can even have a guided tour to know all about our wines.
Herdade dos Grous | Crane’s eye view
By Peter Callaghan
Crane’s
eye view
Following my recent visit to Vila Vita, I was invited to visit their sister resort Herdade dos Grous, a small boutique hotel complex, situated in a 2,000 acre estate in the Alentejo close to the city of Beja.
T
he literal translation means Estate of the Cranes and although my visit was brief, I can certainly understand why it is necessary to try and make your stay a minimum of three or four days.
To find such a luxurious property in the Alentejo is slightly difficult to comprehend. I was told it is a place to unwind and contemplate nature and without doubt there is a fantastic feeling
48 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
of peace and tranquility surrounding this property the minute you arrive. But is also an oasis of extravagance. Travelling around the estate was actually rather like seeing from a crane’s eye point of view. As far as the eye could see, acres of the most perfect vineyards stretch out in front of you. I could already understand why I was going to enjoy tasting some of their award winning wines!
My guided tour by Mariana was a pure delight. She was the perfect hostess and so enthusiastic about Herdade. Being able to relax in this haven of peace is totally automatic; the welcome you receive is as natural as the countryside. One of the most beautiful and tranquil sights is the lake which covers over 80 hectares. A place where nature greets you the minute you pass the entrance lined with olive trees.
Crane’s eye view | Herdade dos Grous
The silence that is in abundance would inspire anyone. I could just imagine being able to relax in one of the suites and just be indulged by serenity. Herdade’s amazing location is the most perfect setting for any celebratory occasion, be it a wedding, an anniversary or just a romantic weekend break. Mariana showed me everything Herdade can offer the visitor. The accommodation in the
main house has 12 double rooms and within close proximity, there are 12 suites known as lodges, offering private accommodation either for two or four persons. All the rooms are well equipped with air conditioning and satellite television and all have their own fireplaces, providing a cosy, warm atmosphere in the cooler winter evenings. Close by are two swimming pools overlooking the lake.
The farm produces its own organic cattle, lamb and pigs. It provides produce for the restaurant and those at Vila Vita and more recently opened a butchery shop at the Biergarten near Porches with a fine reputation for its meats, a real first for the Algarve. Mariana entertained me to luncheon in the 90 seat Adega restaurant where some of the finest regional cuisine is served with most of the ingredients produced on the estate.
| www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2012 | 49
Herdade dos Grous | Crane’s eye view
The restaurant is open to non-residents throughout the year. However, two pieces of advice: it’s always a good idea to book in advance and the other, be aware that their portions are of the most generous nature, superb Alentejo cuisine served in the most delightful of settings. Naturally the wine list offers some of the finest the region produces. The soils of the estate are extremely rich in calcium and added to the sand and magnesium the grapes produce such a unique flavour. All the wines are matured in large oak barrels stored in clinically clean cellars. Many of the wines produced on the estate have won several international awards. Portugal has undergone something of a wine revolution in the past couple of decades, however I was told their Moon Harvested variety is something quite revolutionary to the country. This really has to be one of the most interesting wines out of the thousands that are produced by the estate. The grapes are picked in the middle of the night, based on 50 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
the cycle of the moon – two years ago, it was discovered the optimum time would be 3.00am on the 26th of September! I think it is miracle that anything grows at all in the Alentejo region, perhaps best described as a dustbowl with its hard-baked red earth and unrelenting heat – it couldn’t be further away from the lush green Vila Vita development 60 miles away on the Algarve. How can I summarize my visit to Herdade dos Grous? First of all, it is in a fabulous location, it is pure Alentejo close to the historic city of Beja, which has to be explored whilst in the area. The place offers unique accommodation, there is so much attention to detail everywhere. I loved the way in which there are bicycles freely available for you to cycle to different areas of the estate. My visit was really an unforgettable experience. The tour of the winery, which has to be one of the most efficient I have seen and no visit is complete until you have toured the area either on foot or by tractor, with nearly 2000 acres of vines to visit, too far to cycle!
Crane’s eye view | Herdade dos Grous Or you could see this fabulous estate by horseback, which must be really invigorating. For anyone interested in horse riding, Herdade offer their visitors days of riding on one of their home bred horses. I am not a fisherman, however I was invited had I the time to spend an hour of two of peace on their 200-acre lake. I understand fishing is very popular in Portugal, what a place to spend hours
contemplating the future! And a return visit would have to include a hot air balloon flight over the Alentejo - surely a perfect way to see the largest region of Portugal. You also need to allow time to enjoy the wine tasting, always given by an expert and to spend time in their extensive wine shop. For you will undoubtedly want to take something of Herdade home with you, souvenirs of the estate and the
region or some of their most fabulous mild olive oils. The Vila Vita Hotel group has a mission statement – it reads At times, something unique and extraordinary is created. Herdade dos Grous is all of the above. For further information contact: www.herdadedosgrous.com Tel: +351 284 960000
| www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2012 | 51
Rental market | RENTAL POTENTIAL
Rental Potential By Mary Wilson
52 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
RENTAL POTENTIAL | Rental market
T
he sales market in Portugal may be in the doldrums, but the rental market is still strong. Anyone having difficulty trying to sell their second home in Portugal or, maybe just wanting the property to earn its keep, should look at renting out their property on either a long let or for holiday lets.
“Over the last few years, the rental market has just got better and better” says Rob Kestholt of Silver Holidays www.silverholidays.com. “People, who would have spent around €700,000 upwards on a property, but have decided not to buy, still love coming to Portugal. So they are choosing to take more luxurious holidays there and therefore rentals for the bigger, high end properties are booming”. Many of the properties being let out are owned by people who either want to cover the running costs and maybe give themselves a little extra cash or, are trying but failing, to sell, so renting the property is a good financial alternative. “Three years ago, we had 60 properties on our books. Then two years ago, this bumped up to 87” says Rob. “Many of these came from owners we have previously sold to”. Anyone thinking of buying an investment property, which they will rent out, should look at the top end of the market and ideally a four to five bedroom villa or three bedroom townhouse. The property must have its own pool, modern kitchens and bathrooms, air conditioning. “People do not want anything less than they have back home. The property needs to be spot on in price and quality” he says. Properties which have Portuguese style bathrooms and kitchens are getting less and less booked. “And I would definitely advise people not to buy a one or two bedroom apartment, as there are so many of those around at the moment” he adds. In August, the larger villas (which are always booked first) rent out from €1,850 to €3,500 a week. Townhouses with their own pool rent in the high season for around €1,250 a month.
one bedroom apartments up to a fabulous nine bedroom villa. In the high season, a small apartment would rent for €350 a week and a nice four to five bedroom villa for around €1,500 to €1,750. Their main rental season is May to October. “The most popular properties are the four bedroom villas, which always go first. People wanting an apartment often wait till nearer the time to book” says Jill Marsh, who founded the company. Arcadia - www.arcadialuxuryvillas.com, which specialises in the top end of the market in the Algarve with the majority of its properties being in Quinta do Lago and Vale do Lobo, reports that the rental market was very strong in 2011 and is looking to carry on in that vein this year. “The most popular rental is a four bedroom villa with pool and garden. We rent these out for between €5,000 and €9,000 per week” says Lisa Silva. Their busiest times are usually from the end of June to the end of August, but last year, she says, this extended to the 15th September. One way to stretch out the weeks you can let a property is to put in pool heating. “This can increase the rental season from May to the end of October” says Rob Kestholt. “We persuaded a few of our clients to do that last year and it definitely made a difference”. He is also seeing an increase in groups of people coming over for three to four days out of season – March/April/May and September/ October. “This could be a group of men, who want to play golf or, women who come to Portugal for a spot of pampering, but they always tend to rent the bigger properties” he says. So, all is not doom and gloom in sunny Portugal. If your property is in the right location, has a modern kitchen and bathrooms and all the mod cons, then think about renting it out and it should be able to earn its keep.
(For a selection of rental properties on the market see pages 54 & 55)
Algarve Accommodation Agency www.algarveaccommodation.co.uk which is based in Lagos, has between 80 to 100 properties on its books at any one time, from | www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2012 | 53
The Vilamoura Property Experts in Holiday Rentals and Property Sales
S
ilver Holidays has been established in the well known beach and golf resort of Vilamoura for 14 years. Our experience and expertise in the local area and property field makes us the ideal Company to find the best villa or apartment to suit your own individual needs for a Holiday rental property or when buying a home in the sun. With 80 Rental Properties and 100 Sales Properties we have an excellent choice for you to choose from. As all of our properties are located in Vilamoura and close to our office we are able to give the best services possible as we are on hand to help. We have a first class management team who keep the same high quality and consistent standard throughout all of the properties that we rent out enabling us to welcome back the same guests year after year. We have a great selection of Sales Properties that cover a variety of styles and budgets and it has never been a better time to buy. Why not come and talk to us to see what we have to offer you?
Rental Properties
Villa Thaliena
Luxury 4 Bedroom / 4 Bathroom villa with Heated Pool in Vila Sol
Apartment Elizabeth
2 Bedroom/2 Bathroom apartment with large communal pool
Villa Titta
Child friendly 3 Bedroom villa with gated pool and lawn area
Sale Properties €425,000
€480,000
€1,450,000
Villa Marina
Apartment Sunset
Villa Santoline
Good value 3 Bedroom/2 Bathroom Semi-detached villa
3 Bedroom /2 Bathroom Penthouse with private roof top Jacuzzi
Elegant 4 Bedroom/ 4Bathroom golf front villa in Vila Sol
Rua Do Brasil | Casa Italiana | Loja 5 | 8125-479, Vilamoura | Algarve (behind the Hotel Hilton) Tel: +351 289 314 312 | Email: info@silverholidays.com | Website: www.silverholidays.com
PROPERTIES FOR RENT | Rental market
Properties for Rent By Mary Wilson
Faro
Vila Sol Spa and Golf resort
Santa Bárbara de Nexe
A modernised, traditional Algarvian farmhouse: Casa dos Valados in Alcaria Cova, near Faro was renovated in 2000, but retains many original features. It has breathtaking views to the coast and has three bedrooms, one of which is an attached annexe, large living room with dining area and open fire. There’s a barbeque by the terrace, swimming pool and lawned garden, which is full of fruit trees, oleander and cacti.
A three bedroom villa in the Vila Sol Spa and Golf resort: Villa Ribeiro is a luxurious villa with a large swimming pool, in a quiet culde-sac, just five minutes’ walk from the Hotel Hilton Resort. The en-suite master bedroom with two balconies is on the top floor and there is a covered terrace off the open plan living/dining area. The kitchen has twin sinks and marble worktops and as well as an L-shaped swimming pool, there is an outside shower and built-in barbecue.
Exceptionally well designed and finished villa in Goldra. This four bedroom, five bathroom villa is near Santa Bárbara de Nexe with stunning views over the countryside and beautiful stone terracing around the swimming pool. Double antique entrance doors lead into a lovely interior with a large kitchen/breakfast room with beamed ceiling and contemporary bathrooms. Outside there is a built-in barbecue, sink and seating area; hot tub, children’s tree house, basketball net and even a skateboard rink.
Rentals from €500 to €1,500 per week.
Rentals from €1,105 to €3,200 per week.
Rentals €5,000 per week throughout the year.
Algarve Housing Tel: 00 351 282 330 350 www.algarvehousing.net
Silver Holidays Tel: 00 351 289 314 312 www.silverholidays.com
Prime Properties Tel: 00 351 289 398 759 www.primeproperties.net | www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2012 | 55
Moneycorp | Foreign Exchange
Your money matters! A
nyone living in the UK and thinking about buying a property in Portugal should consider using a foreign exchange company to transfer their money. Transferring money this way has many benefits as Marc Morley-Freer of Moneycorp (www.moneycorp.com) explains. “If you are going to purchase anything internationally, it makes sense to use a foreign exchange company” he says. For example, you may be buying a property in Portugal, putting down a 30% deposit and paying the rest by local finance. Firstly, how do you get the initial lump sum of say €50,000 over there? Most people would pick up the phone to their bank and do a bank transfer. But this is an ancillary service for the banks and all you will get is the day rate, which is set in the morning and can be up to 4% from the real market rate as it is not regularly updated. There will also be very little room for negotiation, if any and the person you speak to is unlikely to have the time or the expertise to give you any advice. You’ll pay between £25 and £40, depending on which bank you are with, to send the money overseas and it will take 5 days to get there.
“When you speak to a company like us, you will be given a personal dealer, who understands when to buy and can negotiate a really good rate. You’ll probably save 2/3% on the transaction. You send us the sterling and pay £15 for us to transfer it. If this is within the Eurozone
56 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
it will arrive the same day. It can also be a great advantage if you are able to tell your solicitor that you have instructed a foreign exchange company and that they will get the money ‘today’! David Smith, who works in corporate finance in the UK, recently bought a 4 bedroom villa on the Algarve and transferred the balance of his purchase money through Moneycorp. “We have been going to the Vale do Lobo/Quinta do Lago area for 15 years for holidays and when we were there last summer, we reckoned prices wouldn’t get any better. We paid a deposit of 20% through our bank, but paid the remainder – because it was such a large amount – through Moneycorp. It was very easy. I agreed with our dealer a target amount that we hoped to pay and when the exchange rate meant we could meet that target we did the deal. He was very diligent in keeping us informed and the transaction was very easy, definitely easier than dealing with our bank” he says. Another advantage of working with a foreign exchange company is that you might know that you will need to transfer 30% of the purchase price, but not ‘today’. It could be in the next 4 weeks. Marc explains “we can work with you to get you the best rate, which might be sooner or it might be later. A bank cannot do that as it has too many customers. So, one of our customers will not only get the best rate, but also could get a discount on the price they pay for
the property. Yet another advantage is that if you buy your property with a local mortgage, you can set up a regular payment plan with us. This allows you to pay your mortgage every month at a set rate, which you agree up front and can be set for up to two years. We charge a £4 fee, rather than the £25 plus that a bank would charge. And by agreeing a rate up front, you know exactly how much you are paying each month. If you used your bank, the amount will fluctuate monthly, which is not an ideal situation. We were the first company to initiate this system about 7 years ago and it is still a relatively unknown service. It just takes away all the hassle. “If you wanted to use sterling to pay the balance of the purchase price, you can take a ‘forward contract’, which means you lock in the rate in advance rather than when it is due – which could be months away and when the exchange rate is worse. We purchase all of the currency on the customer’s behalf and they pay a 10% deposit to secure the rate, paying the remaining 90% when the full value is paid out. It is also hugely beneficial to repatriate money through a foreign exchange company as overseas banks charge even more for transfer and commission rates than UK banks do!”
At the right time. At the right rate. By your own foreign exchange dealer. Transfer your money overseas with the help of a personal dealer – who’ll give you free guidance on the currency markets and help you get the best exchange rates.
To open your free, no-obligation Account call 0800 820 2010 or visit moneycorp.com
Personal money transfers
DES0540
TTT Moneycorp Limited is a company registered in England under registration number 738837. Its registered office address is 2 Sloane Street, London, SW1X 9LA and its VAT registration number is 897 3934 54. TTT Moneycorp Limited is authorised and regulated by the Financial Services Authority for the conduct of designated investment business and the provision of payment services.
SIMON PERKS | Property Comment
A confidence to purchase By Simon Perks
T
raditionally the majority of purchasers of second homes in Portugal, and particularly the Algarve, emanate from the UK. To undertake such a purchase an individual must have confidence in both their home market, from where their income originates, and the country where the property to be purchased is located. These conditions have obviously not existed over the last few years, indeed it is fair to say that the world, Eurozone and UK economies have been somewhat volatile, hence the second home property market in Portugal, and particularly the Algarve, has been very quiet.
Historically, economic cycles rotate approximately every 7 years. We are now, arguably, 4/5 years into an economic recession and there would appear to be signs that we are moving, albeit very slowly, out of the economic recession. At the time of writing Greece had agreed to stay in the Euro, a bailout had been agreed for the Spanish banks and both Ireland and Portugal were adhering to the terms of their respective bailouts. In the UK, the Bank of England had started to encourage banks to start lending to both companies and individuals to stimulate economic growth. Portugal has a well regulated property market with regard to planning and development and as such there is not a vast oversupply of speculative properties, as there is Spain. As 58 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
Monte Rei
a consequence Portugal, and particularly the Algarve, has a well-deserved reputation for quality and exclusivity with purchases being made for reasons of life style rather than purely investment purposes. The Portuguese authorities, the major resorts, developers and the banks have all recognised the prevailing circumstances and are aware they are in a good position to start taking initiatives that will allow them to promote the Portuguese second home market, particularly to the UK, to give individuals the confidence to purchase. Encouraged by these initiatives, Boavista Golf & Spa Resort has recently commenced the construction of four properties and is about to start work on another further four. Philip Pope, managing director comments “in spite of austerity measures and the bad economic climate, Boavista is seeing a slow return to the touristic property market. Clients are cautious, take their time in making a decision and are looking for value for money. Without question clients expect a discount and/or a giveaway but are showing genuine interest in properties on secure, well maintained developments that offer facilities and services, such as Boavista�.
Another important factor that determines whether individuals buy is the exchange rate. Over the last year GBP has appreciated by some 12% against the EUR and a number of foreign currency experts are predicting a GBP/EUR exchange rate of 1.30 by the end of this year with the rate being maintained as it is felt that this is its natural level. This would obviously be of benefit to any purchaser from the UK. In addition it is predicted that interest rate for both GBP and EUR will continue at, or near, their current levels for the foreseeable future. In conclusion the property market in Portugal, and particularly the Algarve, is very quiet, with prices in some areas having fallen by as much as 30/40% from their peak of 2008. In other areas prices have held up but this is partly the result of a lack of transactions. However it would seem that Portugal due to various initiatives and forward thinking will be in a good position to take advantage of any upturn in the market, occasioned by any economic improvement�. Simon Perks Perks Property Finance Solutions Limited + 44 (0)7389 0567 + 44 (0)7780 501548 email: simon@perks-pfs.com
Property FOR SALE | PROPERTY SPOTLIGHT
Property Spotlight By Mary Wilson
Silver Coast
Almancil
Praia da Luz
A charming and very unusual property on the hillside, 30 minutes from Vimeiro on the Silver Coast: the windmill, which has been converted into a living room and a bedroom, is connected by a secret underground passage to the main cottage with three bedrooms, large living room with vaulted ceiling and central fireplace.
A fabulous villa in a small village near Almancil: this has views over the sea, a sweeping driveway and triple carport.
Waterfront property at Praia da Luz: Villa Calle has stunning views out to the sea and lies in 1.5 hectares of land with four bedrooms, living room, dining room, TV room and kitchen with central work unit and black granite worktops.
The property has a swimming pool, lovely garden with fruit trees and its own bore hole.
The villa is on three floors with five bedrooms, living room with large fireplace, dining room and a generous amount of covered outdoor living space. It is surrounded by landscaped grounds with tennis court and heated swimming pool. It also has a one-bedroom self-contained apartment.
Price: €350,000
Price: Reduced to €1,995,000
Price: €1,750,000
Winkworth Tel: 00 351 918 621 869 www.winkworth.pt
Select Resorts Tel: 01202 765011 www.selectresorts.co.uk
Knight Frank Tel: 020 7629 8171 www.knightfrank.com
The rooms are light and all bedrooms have their own terrace. There is a garage, large kidney shaped heated swimming pool and the gardens and lawns are fully irrigated.
| www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2012 | 59
EVENT | Portuguese Chamber of Commerce Property Conference 2012
Residential Tourism – The future strategy Report by Mary Wilson
T
his was the 8th annual property conference and the second to take place at the Pestana Chelsea Bridge Hotel in south west London. The event was sponsored by Banco Santander Totta and Banco Espirito Santo. Speakers included Dra. Cecilia Meireles, Portugal’s Secretary of State for Tourism – quite a coup for the Chamber as this was the first time a government minister has attended, Diogo Gaspar Ferreira – chairman of the Portuguese Resort Association and William Cunningham, a former tax partner with Arthur Andersen, who spoke about the role of taxation policy in competing for residential tourism.
The conference was opened by his Excellency, João de Vallera, the Ambassador of Portugal in the UK and Honorary President of the Portuguese Chamber. He spoke positively that 2011 had been a good year for tourism with a 7% increase in revenue and 12% increase in British visitors and confirmed that the 60 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
government’s stabilising programme was totally on track. “We have good signs of recovery and readjustment in the private sectors with an increase of exports by 13.5% in January this year alone” he said. “The reduction in bond interest rates is a positive response to how we are tackling the restructuring of our economy”. The Conference chairman, Dr. Jorge de Abreu of Abreu & Marques e Associados, was also optimistic, explaining that in spite of the current economic crisis, Portugal is still very appealing to visitors all around the world, substantiated by an increase in residential tourism. “Having the Secretary of State at the conference for the first time shows how attitudes are changing in the Portuguese Government, which is now trying to serve its citizens, rather than the other way round” he said. Dra. Cecilia Meireles spoke persuasively about how residential tourism is the new
Dra Cecilia Meireles
lifestyle for overseas travellers. “Purchasers are looking for lifestyle or are motivated by a particular hobby, golf or sailing, for example” she said. “They also look for investment in the long term, further use after retirement and are attracted to a familiar destination, where they usually spent several holidays. Portugal is all about this and the Government naturally recognises tourism as one of the most profitable activities of our economy... and Portugal is working and advancing in becoming a premium tourism and real estate location”. Dra. Meireles also talked about the government working to develop a competitive and stable tax regime for foreigners wishing to purchase a property in the country to settle or reside in it most of the year. “The Government will launch a specific campaign to attract foreign investment related with capital transfer and stable acquisition of real estate by granting residence permits” she said.
Portuguese Chamber of Commerce Property Conference 2012 | EVENT
Left to right: Francisco Palma, William Cunningham, Jim Cook, Jorge de Abreu, Francisco Barata Salgueiro, Geoff Hadwick
Dr Diogo Gaspar Ferreira
During question time, she was taken to task about when the government would make the tax system more appealing to overseas property investors, replying “the main thing we have to address now is the simplicity and stability of our tax system. This is our main goal until the adjustment and economic plan is ended. After that, we will be able to look at making it more competitive”. Diogo Ferreira, who was the second speaker to address the delegates, rattled a few cages. He discussed the housing market and in particular, the second home market, in Europe. He passionately called for more action from the government to improve Portugal’s international image as a trustworthy country, to provide new fiscal incentives to attract investors and residents to the country and to promote the country more vociferously, by producing professional marketing material to promote Portugal as the best European destination to buy a second home.
Left to right: Charles Weston Baker, Cecilia Meireles, Dr Jorge de Abreu, Diogo Gaspar Ferreira
“We need an aggressive fiscal policy and to concentrate on quality second homes over the next ten years” he said. “I believe Portugal will occupy a more important role in the second home property market in the coming decade. My projections show that Portugal’s market share will improve by 10%. Our goal is to sell some 11,600 new houses per year to the overseas market, which will bring in annual revenue of around 1.7 billion euros”. William Cunningham also had strong words about the tax system with regard to residential tourism, explaining that Portugal’s Non-Habitual Resident Regime, introduced in September 2009, should have allowed newly arrived individuals to enjoy several tax benefits. However, the regime has been badly operated with too much bureaucracy to be of much help. He also called for the Government to avoid sending conflicting tax message to investors and tourists. “Its tax policies need to be aligned with others
William Cunningham
to avoid cancelling out other favourable initiatives” he says. Overall, the outlook was optimistic and will be even more so when the Portuguese Government is able to put in place tax conditions and incentives to encourage further property investment in the country. The Chamber were encouraged to see many new attendees at this years conference, during the dinner that followed it was quite obvious this event will continue to inspire and encourage senior Portuguese delegates to attend. As the only voice representing Portugal in the UK, this Chamber continues to grow from strength to strength. For more details please contact Christina Hippisley, the General Manager on c.hippisley@portuguese-chamber.org.uk
| www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2012 | 61
FEATURE REPORT | THE ANGLO-PORTUGUESE SOCIETY
THE ANGLO-PORTUGUESE SOCIETY The Society’s 2011 Dinner Dance. Left to right :Mr Dominic Gallard, Mrs Mary Millington Buck, Mr Ben Millington Buck, HE Mrs Jill Gallard, HE Sen João de Vallera, Mrs João de Vallera
A
lively programme of events in central London brings together people with an interest in Portugal regularly throughout the year. Talks, port and madeira wine tastings, art exhibitions and parties are all part of the calendar for the Anglo-Portuguese Society and its 300 members with the events usually taking place in Canning House, 2 Belgrave Square, London, where the Society also has its office.
The Society is a charitable organisation which promotes knowledge of Portugal in the UK – Portuguese history, its culture and traditions – and advances the long-standing friendship between our two countries. It also raises funds to directly support causes in Portugal. HISTORY OF THE ANGLO-PORTUGUESE SOCIETY (with thanks to Carol Mason (nee Rankin)) In 1938 a group of businessmen in London with interests in Portugal planned a dinner in honour of the newly-arrived Portuguese Ambassador, Dr Armindo Monteiro. It was held at the Dorchester Hotel and was 62 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
attended by over 300 people, with the Rt Hon Sir Francis Linley presiding. Lord Harlech was amongst those who made speeches and everyone agreed that something more tangible and long lasting should be established to reflect the unique relationship between Britain and Portugal. Thus on 20th July 1938, with the help of a generous grant from the Portuguese Government, the Anglo-Portuguese Society was formally constituted as a charitable body at the Casa de Portugal in London. Dr Armindo Monteiro agreed to be its President, as has every Portuguese Ambassador appointed to London since then. The aims of the Society were laid down: to foster the historic alliance between Britain and Portugal (dating back to the Treaty of Windsor between England and Portugal in 1386); to establish and support a library in London of Portuguese and British books, newspapers and to promote language classes and to hold exhibitions, talks, conferences etc on the intellectual, artistic and economic life of Portugal. Later, the support of educational endeavours and the relief of poverty and
deserving charities in Portugal was added. The first lecture took place on 26th January 1939, but the the outbreak of World War II meant that activities were then curtailed. The end of hostilities saw the first Annual Dinner in November 1946, with the British Prime Minister, The Rt Hon Clement Attlee, as Guest of Honour. This event has taken place almost every year since then. In 1974 two new sub-committees were formed: the Ladies Committee and the Younger Members Committee, a joint organisation with the Anglo-Brazilian Society, now known as “The Brasilusans”, the idea being to encourage more social events for younger members ie Caipirinha parties, Carnival Balls etc. To become a member of the Society, contact: The Secretary, The Anglo-Portuguese Society 2 Belgrave Square, London SW1X 8PJ Email: angloportuguese@talktalk.net Tel: 020 7245 9738 www.angloportuguesesociety.org.uk
GOLF | FEATURED COURSE - MONTADO GOLF RESORT
A golfers paradise! By Stuart Masson
T
he Montado Golf Resort lies some 16 miles south of Lisbon, among the cork oaks, orchards and muscatel vineyards near the old roman castle town of Palmela, and is the perfect venue for the holidaying golfer who likes to walk from bedroom to course in 5 minutes! All 93 rooms in the 3 storey hotel, which opened in 2009 and still has the feel of a sparkling new venue, look out over the lake on the 9th or 18th holes.
the tutelage of Robert Trent Jones and who designed the Estela links course north of Oporto, which opened in 1989. In 2005 a restructuring of the course was conducted by Jorge Santana da Silva, another Trent Jones pupil, and if you have played Pinheiros Altos and Quinta do Lago’s new Laranjal course on the Algarve then you are familiar with his entertaining, challenging yet enjoyable style of golf architecture.
The course first opened in 1992 and the original design was by Duarte Sottomayor, whose golf architecture career started under
As you drive down the resort’s private driveway, the practice ground and a practice putting green are opposite the front of the
64 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
hotel, just the other side of the car park from the 1st tee – very handy for warming up the long game and preparing your putting for the very quick and undulating Penncross greens out on the course. The course lies on a gently undulating terrain, no steep climbs, and the holes wander back and forth through cork oaks and olive trees. Although many holes run side by side the trees, lakes and ditches separate them adequately and there should be no distraction from neighbouring players. Although the course is not physically testing the greens are certainly mentally challenging – hit the wrong side of some pin positions and a three putt may be a triumph! Although
FEATURED COURSE - MONTADO GOLF RESORT | GOLF
the course has only 51 bunkers, an unusually small number in comparison to many southern-european courses, they are well positioned and influence play considerably. The Bermuda grassed fairways are not too narrow but are probably more testing for the longer hitter. The six lakes come into play on 11 holes but there is always a safer option on dry land – the par 5 second is a perfect example of risk and reward, but confidence is required to go for the green over the lake so early in the round. The island green on the par 3 18th is a challenge but there are a selection of 4 tees, as on all holes, ranging from 176 to 116 yards to meet a broad spectrum of golfing ability.
Those holes without any large water presence provide a rich assortment of challenges – the taxing approach to the raised green of the 400 yard 4th, the testing drive at the dogleg left 5th with its awkward central fairway bunker, the long 465 yard downhill 11th with out of bounds on both sides of the tee shot and imposing cork oaks to the right of the approach shot, and the dogleg left 14th with its tee shot up a gently ascending fairway before a second shot down to its sloping bunkered green.
minutes’ drive of Montado – Quinta do Peru, 2 courses at both RibaGolfe and Aroeira, and the links on the Troia peninsula – and their variety, together with the rich local character and cuisine , contributes to provide an excellent location for a great golfing holiday. Further details are available at: www.montadoresort.com
Although many golfers are probably more familiar with the popular Algarve than this more native region just south of Lisbon, there are a number of excellent courses within 30 | www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2012 | 65
GOLF | The Portugal Golf Club in association with...
The Portugal Golf Club Portugal’s largest golf club
Join the Portugal Golf Club TODAY for only ÂŁ36.00 per year....
As a member, you will enjoy the lowest green fees in Portugal. Central Region & Porto
Save your membership fee on your first round of golf!
For more information please visit
www.portugalgolfclub.net
Lisbon Blue Coast Estoril & Cascais West Region
Azores
Madeira
Western Algarve
Central Algarve
Eastern Algarve
The Portugal Golf Club | GOLF
The best golf rates in Portugal GUARANTEED! Western Algarve
Eastern Algarve Benamor | Par 71 Castro Marim | Par 72 Monte Rei | Par 72 Quinta da Ria | Par 72 Quinta de Cima | Par 72 Quinta do Vale | Par 72
Lisbon - Estoril & Cascais
Alamos | Par 71
Belas Clube Campo | Par 72
Alto | Par 72
Golfe do Estoril | Par 69
Boavista | Par 71
Golfe do Estoril | Blue Course | Par 69
Espiche | Par 72
Lisbon Sports Club | Par 69
Gramacho | Par 72
Oitavos Dunes | Par 71
Morgado | Par 73
Penha Longa Atlântico | Par 72
Oceânico Faldo Course | Par 72
Penha Longa Mosteiro | Par 35 (9 holes)
Oceânico O’Connor Jnr | Par 72
Quinta da Beloura | Par 72
Palmares | Awaiting classification
Quinta da Marinha | Par 71
Parque da Floresta | Par 71 Penina Academy | Par 30 (9 holes)
Lisbon - West Region
Penina Championship | Par 73
Bom Sucesso | Par 72
Penina Resort | Par 35 (9 holes)
Campo Real | Par 72
Silves | Par 70
Golden Eagle | Par 72
Vale da Pinta | Par 71
Praia Del Rey | Par 73 Royal Obidos | Par 72
Central Algarve
Central Region & Porto
Balaia | Par 27 (9 holes)
Montebelo Golfe | Par 72
Laranjal | Par 72
Vidago Palace | Par 72
Oceânico Laguna | Par 72
Quinta da Barca | 62 (2 x 9 holes)
Oceânico Millennium | Par 72
Golfe da Quinta do Fojo | Par 60 ( 6 x 3 holes)
Oceânico Old Course | Par 73
Golfe de Amarante | Par 68
Oceânico Pinhal | Par 72
Oporto Golf Club | Par 71
Oceânico Victoria | Par 72
Ponte de Lima | Par 71
Pinheiros Altos | Par 72
Lisbon - Blue Coast
Estela | Par 72
Quinta do Lago North | Par 72
Aroeira I | Par 72
Quinta do Lago South | Par 72
Aroeira II | Par 72
Salgados | Par 72
Quinta do Perú | Par 72
San Lorenzo | Par 72
Ribagolfe I | Par 72
Palheiro | Par 72\
Sheraton Pine Cliffs | Par 64 (2 x 9 holes)
Ribagolfe II | Par 72
Santo da Serra | Par 72
Vale do Lobo Ocean | Par 73
Santo Estevão | Par 54 (2 x 9 holes)
Vale do Lobo Royal | Par 72
Troia | Par 72
Vila Sol | Par 72
Montado | Par 72
Join as a member today -
Miramar | Par 70 ( 2 x 9 holes)
Madeira
Porto Santo Porto Santo | Par 72
www.portugalgolfclub.net
We are proud to announce that the VILA VITA Parc Resort & Spa is commemorating its 20th anniversary this year. To celebrate such milestone, a remarkable golf program is being prepared to welcome all our guests to the 20th Anniversary VILA VITA Parc Golf Tournament, between 24th and 28th October 2012. Enjoy your game in the mild climate, pamper yourself with our refreshing wellness offers and delight your evenings with our diverse culinary offer, experiencing the utmost in Portuguese hospitality in one of Europe´s most recognized luxurious 5-star resorts and one of “The Leading Hotels of the World”. Call us now to know more: +351 282 310 100.
Rua Anneliese Pohl, Alporchinhos 8400-450 Porches · Algarve · Portugal Tel:
+351 282 310 100
Email: reservas@vilavitaparc.com Web: http//www.vilavitaparc.com
Restaurants and Businesses | FOOD
Travel Inspirations... GISELA’S RESTAURANTE - Vale do Lobo Conceived by Gisela Matthjis of gourmet private catering company Fine Dining In Style, serving high quality Portuguese and international cuisine. Stunning ocean views.
J DA PRAÇA - São Bartolomeu de Messines A traditional Portuguese restaurant with a bustling atmosphere, good service, great food and a surprisingly sophisticated wine list. You won’t find a tourist in sight.
MARISCOS & PETISCOS - Tavira You’ll go a long way to find better seafood than this in the Algarve. Friendly and unpretentious, the emphasis here is firmly on substance over style - and superb value. The sharing seafood platters are a must.
OCEAN - VILA VITA PARC - Porches
S
o the Algarve is just sun, sea and golf, right? Wrong. The region offers a host of ideas, activities and attractions, especially for the discerning or niche holidaymaker. Inspirations Algarve has some recommendations for you.
FOOD Where would you expect to find the only two restaurants in the whole of Portugal boasting two Michelin stars? In one of the talked-about trendy districts of Lisbon? In the old quarter of Porto? In a fabulous restored pousada in the heart of the Alentejo? Or housed in an historic building in a heritage gem such as Coimbra, Guimarães, Obidos or Evora? The answer, which may come as a surprise to some people, is in the Algarve. There’s far more to food in the region than chicken piri-piri or, God forbid, international tourist-fare. Discover hearty, traditional rustic cuisine in the countryside, sophisticated dining in top hotels and resorts, and of course great fish and seafood along the length and breadth 70 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
of the coast, usually with a stunning sea or beach view thrown in for free. Here are some of our favourite places:
A EIRA DO MEL - Vila do Bispo A traditional western Algarve farmhouse that subscribes to the Slow Food movement - the unhurried pleasure to be gained from serving good quality, freshly-cooked, and locallyproduced food. No wonder it’s always busy.
ARTE NÁUTICA - Armacão de Pera Vila Vita Parc’s upmarket beach restaurant with a New England coastal look - stylish but informal, with great meat from the group’s organic farm in the Alentejo, and superb fish and seafood.
EVARISTO - Galé Tucked away in a picturesque cove, this trendy beachside restaurant works a little like a very exclusive fish market, in that you choose your fish from the counter before you sit down. Grilled squid and white sangria make a perfect combination.
Vila Vita Parc’s gourmet restaurant, with two Michelin stars awarded to super-talented Austrian chef Hans Neuner and his team. The attention to detail is perfect and the atmosphere casually elegant.
PAIXA - Vale do Lobo Scores on the ‘cool’ stakes, and makes a great place to meet, talk and enjoy superb Portuguese tapas and a fantastic range of wines - many by the glass.
RUI - Silves Despite being inland, it’s the most famous seafood restaurant in the Algarve, and never disappoints, serving the freshest prawns, crab and lobster.
VILA JOYA - Galé A two-star Michelin restaurant and a spectacular clifftop setting add up to a sublime place for lunch. Go on, spoil yourself.
VISTAS - MONTE REI - Tavira A 19th hole with a difference - top Spanish chef Jaime Perez trained under Ferran Adria at el Bulli and produces terrific food in his fine-dining restaurant at the golf club.
WINE | Restaurants and Businesses
I
t might not be as established as some of the more famous wine-growing regions of Portugal such as the Douro or the Dao, but the Algarve still holds plenty of surprises in store for wine lovers, with vineyards to tour, wine cellars to visit, and well-stocked wine shops to buy from.
The first stop in the Algarve for many visitors with an interest in wine is often Adega do Cantor (the winery of the singer) in Guia, near Albufeira. The singer in question is of course Cliff Richard, and like other celebrity winemakers such as Gerard Depardieu in France or Francis Ford Coppola in California, Sir Cliff is far more than just a figurehead. ‘Congratulations’ are certainly in order for his commitment to helping Algarve wine to be taken seriously in the past few years, bringing in pioneering Australian flying winemaker David Baverstock to add a lighter touch, and a more international appeal, to the traditionally tannin-heavy wines that used to be the hallmark of southern Portugal, and the cause of many a hangover for unsuspecting visitors. As well as producing some excellent reds, whites and rosés in its Vida Nova range Adega do Cantor also offers a series of guided tours of the vineyards and winery, tutored tastings, and the opportunity to buy wines and a variety of merchandise from its shop. And if you are there during the summer, you might even bump into the man himself – Cliff has a villa on the estate
VINEYARDS OF DISTINCTION
and spends a lot of time in the winery during his regular between-tour visits.
At Quinta dos Vales, at Estombar near Portimao, the combination of wine and art takes on a different form: the wine estate is also a sculpture garden, showcasing a variety of work from local and international artists and hosting temporary and permanent exhibitions. The old adega meanwhile is used for regular wine tastings, open days and events, and there are 22-bedrooms in a selection of farmhouses, plus a nature park, making it ideal for family holidays.
Try and buy If you’re new to Algarve wine, avoid the massproduced ‘plonk’ from the co-operatives and look out instead for some excellent wines from small independent producers such as Barranco Longo, Frances and Paxa. The actual vineyards, as yet, aren’t open for public tours, but to try and buy - a superb selection of wines from the Algarve and the rest of Portugal, head for Veneza near Paderne: an award-winning garrafeira (wine shop) that also happens to include a highly-
recommended rustic restaurant. Wines in the cellar-style shop are arranged by region, and the helpful staff in this family-run establishment will be more than happy to guide you through the vast array of varieties, and put together a selection of your favourites. They even offer a shipping service if you want to send a case or three back home to enjoy after your holiday.
For special occasions, you could also book a private event – a wine or port tasting, or an exclusive dinner - at the gothic underground Cave de Vinhos (wine cellar) at Vila Vita Parc hotel near Armacão de Pera. It houses more than 11,000 bottles of wine, lovingly tended to by the hotel’s expert sommeliers. And if you are staying at Vila Joya in Galé, near Albufeira, or eating in the hotel’s restaurant, ask for a tour of their trendy black slate wine cellar and tasting room: there can’t be too many that throw in a spectacular ocean view for good measure.
| www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2012 | 71
Restaurants and Businesses | Naturism
Naked Ambition
T
he Algarve has some fabulous naturist beaches for you to discover. Paul Rouse of Inspirations Algarve reveals all.
you go totally naked on many of the popular and busy beaches in the main towns and resorts.
With a wonderful climate, the best beaches in Europe, and a relaxed attitude towards public nudity, it’s no surprise that the Algarve has become an increasingly popular destination for naturist holidaymakers, as well as those expatriates who enjoy having an all-over tan.
But don’t worry. There are three official naturist beaches in the Algarve - Adegas at Odeceixe, Ilha Deserta off the coast of Olhao, and Barril on the Ilha de Tavira - plus any number of others along the entire stretch of the coast where nudity is the norm, not just with foreign tourists and residents but with the Portuguese themselves.
There is a Portuguese expression, nao faz mal, which roughly translates as ‘it doesn’t matter.’ It perfectly sums up the country’s laid-back attitude towards many things, including nakedness in public, and is the reason why many beaches, even if they are not officially recognised as naturist, are naturist by common consent. Public nudity is not actually against the law in Portugal, and an offence is only committed if somebody feels morally offended and files a complaint - an unlikely occurrence. So you can, in theory, go naked anywhere you want. In practice, whilst topless sunbathing is as common in the Algarve as most places in southern Europe, you might cause offence if 72 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
The following list is by no means definitive, as within reason you can go naked on any stretch of quiet beach, but it’s a good starting point. From west to east, some of my favourites include: Amoreira, Vale Figueira, Bordeira, Murracao, Barriga, Cordama, Beliche, Barranco, Zavial, Furnas, Cabanas, Pinheiros, Meia Praia, Prainha, Caneiros, Afurada, Praia Grande, Armona and Cacela Velha.
Choice For naturist holidays, there is a growing choice of naturist accommodation, either in guest houses, campsites, or private villas. Or you can stay in non-naturist accommodation and simply head to a naturist beach during the day.
Either way, check out the Inspirations Algarve Exclusive Travel Club, who can put together tailor-made itineraries, make all the necessary travel arrangements, and recommend the best beaches. And if you just want to meet fellow naturists for an enjoyable day out, come along to one of the beach days organised throughout the summer by Naturist Portugal. Events are planned at a variety of naturist-friendly beaches on the following Sundays in 2012: 1 July, 5 August, 2 September, 7 October, and everybody is welcome. Just bring a picnic, some wine and a bottle of sun lotion. Contact info@ naturistportugal.com for more details on times and locations, or to sign up for the regular Naturist Portugal email newsletter. A naturist holiday might not be for everybody, but if you do dare to bare in Portugal, you’ll find it accepted as being perfectly natural, in every sense. And just think - no more white lines, clinging bathing costumes or that most ridiculous of beach pantomimes, trying to get undressed behind a towel. Go on: what have you got to be shy about?
TRAVEL CLUB | Restaurants and Businesses
Inside information • Private helicopter flight over the western Algarve • Racetrack experience drive at the F1- approved Autódromo do Algarve in a Porsche with a F3 driver. • Champagne lunch in a private hospitality box at the Autódromo • Private golf lesson with Vale do Lobo golf pro • Spa treatments at Vale do Lobo spa • Chauffeur-driven limo transfer to Herdade dos Grous with winery tour, wine tasting & lunches. • Final night dinner and actual birthday at Vila Joya’s Michelin two-star restaurant
I
nspirations Algarve is the region’s leading online travel and lifestyle guide, showcasing the best in accommodation, restaurants, vineyards, shops, attractions, activities and services. So why not plan an inspired trip with their Exclusive Travel Club?
Almost anybody can book their own holiday online these days. But what if you want to guarantee that your room is the best in the hotel, that your dinner table has the prime location in the restaurant, and that the dream trip you have planned fulfils - and exceeds - your expectations? How would you know about the beautiful vineyard that can arrange a private meal for small groups but never advertises it, or the luxury villa where you can bring in your own personal chef? Not to mention making a special occasion really special by organising a hot-air balloon ride, a private limousine, or a champagne picnic on a deserted beach? Inspirations Algarve makes it its business to know. And here is just one example of how they made somebody’s dreams come true: The event: 60th birthday celebration Time of year: December Clients: Michael (the birthday boy) and his fiancée Louise, from Wales.
Regular visitors to the Algarve. Enjoy quality hotels, good food and wine. Travelled extensively and certainly game for a laugh. The brief: A surprise week-long celebration of the big day. Michael knew he was coming to the Algarve, but from the moment he stepped off the plane, he was in the dark about everything else. Planning: Numerous private telephone conversations and emails between Louise and Inspirations Algarve. Extensive negotiations with suppliers and contacts in the Algarve, based on personal knowledge and the profile of the client. Itinerary: • Three-night stay in luxury villa at Vale do Lobo • Two-night stay at Vila Joya boutique hotel in Galé • Two-night stay at Herdade dos Grous vineyard in the Alentejo • Surprise romantic candlelight dinner in their Vale do Lobo villa prepared and served by private gourmet caterers. They were told to dress for dinner and assumed they were going out; instead the chef and team arrived on the doorstep, complete with flowers, champagne & music. Even Louise needed a few surprises!
Client comments: “A surprise milestone birthday celebration to remember,” says Michael. “It was great fun and an impact on all the senses from start to finish. We met some fabulous people, enjoyed some unique experiences, and still found time to relax. I felt like a king (and still do) and enjoyed every minute. Conclusion: “It helped that Michael was the sort of person who is up for anything,” explains Inspirations Algarve, “and loved not only the surprise element of the trip, but the fact that we had fitted the trip to suit his personality and likes. But if you’re not that adventurous, we can organise a tailor-made itinerary to your exact requirements. Whether it’s a birthday, anniversary, or you’re just looking for a great holiday to remember, we can help. We’re not called Inspirations for nothing.” The Inspirations Algarve Travel Club www.inspirationsalgarve.com A bespoke planning and booking service offering unique and memorable experiences for visitors to the Algarve. We can help with detailed itineraries, activities, special occasions, celebrations, and bookings for accommodation, restaurants, attractions and services.
All clients travel with the peace of mind of a fully-bonded service from our partner, Exclusive Travel Advisor: a full member of the Travel Trust Association and ATOL. | www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2012 | 73
WIN A LUXURY HAMPER of fine products from Herdade dos Grous;
Red & White Wine, Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Regional Honey, Fine Herbs, Jam Compote, Luxury Sea Salt, Cookies, Herdade Key Ring
The competition question is: Why was 26th of September 2010 such an important date in the life of those working at Herdade dos Grous? Answers by email only to: sales@portugal-life.net Only the correct email answers will be entered into this exciting competition. The first email with the correct answer drawn on the 5th of November 2012 will be deemed the winner. Rules: 1. Entry to the competition is restricted to one entry per person please. 2. Multiple entries will be disqualified. 3. The competition is open to everyone by email only. 4. The Winner will be drawn at the World Travel Market, The Excel Centre London on Monday the 5th of November 2012 5. The Winner will be contacted via email and displayed on our website. 6. The Judges decision is final and no correspondance will be entered in to. 7. The competition will run from 1st August 2012 till 30th October 2012. 8. Portugal Life & Travel is compliant with the data protection act. Our policy is such that we will not pass on your details to any third party without your prior consent. 9. No person connected in any way to The Callaghan Group is able to take part in the competition. 10. By submitting an entry, each entrant agrees to the Competition Rules and warrants that their entry complies with the magazine rules
SPECIAL OFFER -
SAVE 15%
A Unique Destination...
this summer on 2 and 3-bedroom villas, for July and August bookings only.
These large, beautiful villas, each have ensuite luxury bathrooms, spacious covered terraces and landscaped gardens. These homes radiate quality, and feature elegant interior dĂŠcor, fully equipped kitchens and outdoor dining area. Monte Rei villas offer all the comforts of a private home, whilst still providing guests with the services and amenities expected within a luxury hotel. The region offers, in less than 10 minutes drive, some of the most attractive beaches in the Algarve, including the stunning islands of Cabanas and Tavira which are part of the beautiful Ria Formosa Natural Park.
To book your holiday at Monte Rei, contact us on: T. +351 281 950 950 | E. reservas@monterei.com | www.monte-rei.com
TRAVEL & TOURISM | LATEST NEWS
TRAVEL & TOURISM NEWS SENIORS CLUB AT THE
RESIDENCES VILAMOURA
The Residences at Victoria Clube de Golfe in Vilamoura has created the Seniors Club, for the community of Active 55+ living at The Residences, assisting them in making day-today life easier and more enjoyable, allowing an active and carefree lifestyle. As a member of the Seniors Club at The Residences, one can access a whole range of facilities and specially tailored services, such as Concierge, 24h reception and security, and a dedicated team of people on hand to look after every detail. Seniors can relax in the knowledge that they are at the right place and in safe hands and can invest their time in other activities, like golfing in any of the five courses in Vilamoura, at very preferential rates for members. Healthcare is also an important concern for seniors, so members have access to a first choice private health provider, HOSPITAL DE LOULÉ, with over 30 medical areas being attended by the finest medical and nursing English-speaking staff, both on location and the Hospital premises.
ANYONE FOR CROQUET?
Overlooking the exotic blue flag beaches of the Ria Formosa islands, and nestled among seven acres of secluded tropical gardens and orchards, a new croquet club has been launched on the Algarve. This beautiful site has 360 degree views of coast and the mountains and is the first to bring the World Federation of Croquet, with international and local matches and competitions to the area. For those less inclined or wanting to recline, you can relax by the pool, or cool in it; play
petang or badminton; enjoy evening dining at the weekends or lazy Sunday brunches inside Moroccan styled tents at the Bistro Baltizaar. There is also a two bedroom guest cottage.
VILA JOYA MAKES IT TO
THE TOP 50 IN THE WORLD
For further information go to: www.belaromaocroquet.com
NEW BOUTIQUE HOTEL
OPENING NEAR TAVIRA
Fazenda Nova is a secluded luxury Country House hotel in the heart of the Eastern Algarve, near the beautiful historic coastal town of Tavira and stunning coastline and beaches. The Fazenda is an original Portuguese country house that has been renovated to combine a modern style with traditional architecture and features. Formerly a family home and farm, it sits on ten hectares of land, with its own orchard, vegetable and herb gardens. In spring it is abundant with wild flowers growing among almond, carob and olive trees. The Fazenda has ten large suites, all dressed in Balinese furniture, with private terraces and gardens, its own restaurant, bar, pool, library, orchard, herb and vegetable gardens. The Fazenda Nova Country House will open its doors to the public this August. For more details visit: www.fazendanova.eu
Vila Joya boutique resort’s restaurant near Albufeira on the Algarve has made it to 45th on the list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, drawn up by the British food magazine, Restaurant. Chef, Dieter Koschina, who runs the restaurant, believes that being placed on the top 50 list is very important for tourism – for the restaurant and for Portugal. The restaurant, which is the only one in Portugal to have two Michelin stars, has also won the award of World’s Leading Boutique Hotel five years in a row as well as being distinguished by the Michelin Guide Awards.
Museu do Côa
Nominated for Top European Award One of Portugal’s principal museums was short-listed for the European Museum of the Year Award for 2012. Forty-six of Europe’s best museums were nominated for the award and the winner, which was announced during the European Museum Forum’s annual assembly in Penafiel, northern Portugal was The Madinat al-Zahra Museum in Cordoba, Spain. The Museu do Côa is the centrepiece of a prehistoric rock art site in the Côa Valley comprising some five thousand animal figures carved over several millennia, representing the most remarkable open-air ensemble of Palaeolithic art on the Iberian Peninsula. The European Museum of the Year Award recognises the work of the many organisations, | www.portugal-life.net | Summer 2012 | 75
LATEST NEWS | TRAVEL & TOURISM researchers and cultural institutions around the continent who are continually striving to create pioneering museums and develop projects relevant to the preservation and promotion of European cultural heritage. It is an award given by experts with a proven European background to a museum or an institution which displays outstanding museological expertise. www.arte-coa.pt
Algarve Voted Best Golf Destination by Today’s Golfer Readers
the crème de la crème of the world’s top players as household names such as American Express, Starwood, Lufthansa, Abercrombie & Kent, Royal Caribbean and Europcar received their respective and much-deserved awards.
”We are very proud that the Algarve has, once again, been recognised as a quality golfing destination, and even more so coming from a prominent publication in the United Kingdom, which continues to be our main tourist-generating market,” remarked António Pina, chairman of the Algarve Tourist Board. Of equal significance is the fact that the Algarve is the chosen venue for this year’s International Golf Travel Market (IGTM), an event that brings together the cream of the golf tourism industry at a different golf destination every year. IGTM 2012 will take place from 12-15 November in Vilamoura, home to some of the world’s finest golf courses.
Readers of the UK’s leading golf magazine, Today’s Golfer, have selected the Algarve as one of their preferred golfing destinations in a recent poll.
www.todaysgolfer.co.uk
World Travel Oscar Winners Announced
Portugal’s southernmost sunshine region secured 32% of the vote in the Best Value Destination in Continental Europe category, ahead of Turkey (19%) and the Costa Brava (11%).
The ceremony also included the best of Portugal awards which went to the Bairro Alto Hotel as Portugal’s Leading Boutique Hotel; Lisbon Marriott as Portugal’s Leading Conference Hotel; Pine Cliff’s Resort as Portugal’s Leading Family Resort; Praia d’El Rey as Portugal’s Leading Golf Resort; Pestana Palace as Portugal’s Leading Hotel; Hilton Vilamoura as Portugal’s Leading Resort and Hotel Quinta do Lago as Portugal’s Leading Spa Resort. Established 19 years ago, the organisers of the World Travel Awards are committed to raising the standards of customer service and overall business performance throughout the international tourism industry. The 2011 WTA nominations featured more than 5,000 companies in 1,000 categories across 162 countries, with the winners being selected by more than 210,000 industry professionals and consumers worldwide. www.worldtravelawards.com The Sunday Times listed within their 100 best destinations for 2012, The Secret North. They stated Northern Portugal was a superb destination to visit. Please see our review of Carmo’s Boutique Hotel on pages 34-37.
The Oceânico Old Course in Vilamoura and the Dona Filipa Hotel & San Lorenzo Golf Resort in Vale do Lobo scooped the respective Best Golf Course in Portugal and Best Hotel/ Resort in Portugal awards, respectively. The World Travel Awards (WTA) reached their glittering climax during a lavish gala and prize-giving ceremony held on Wednesday the 11th of January at the Katara Cultural Village in Doha, Qatar. Dubbed the travel industry’s Oscars, the Hollywood-style event celebrated 76 | Summer 2012 | www.portugal-life.net |
Portugal enjoyed its share of the spotlight when the country’s popular national carrier, TAP Portugal, scooped the World’s Leading Airline to South America + Africa awards, a moment only matched by Vila Joya’s reception of both the World’s and Europe’s Leading Boutique Resort award.
Vis Insp its ec We tion lco me Winner of the Homes Overseas,“Best Overseas Retirement Development” & “Readers’ Choice” Awards
Villas from: £175,000 | Apartments from: £95,000 Designed for the Over 55’s
Monte da Palhagueira offers 33 houses and apartments, exclusively designed for the over 55’s. Set within a traditional village development of 22 acres, just 20 minutes drive from Faro International Airport, the village nestles in the tranquil and picturesque hillside of Gorjões, Faro in the Algarve region of Portugal.
Excellent Facilities
The village offers many unique features, including its own Anglican Church, restaurant, tennis court, two swimming pools and an ornamental lake, all set within traditional village surroundings, bounded by stone walled lanes and terracotta tiled buildings.
Complete Peace of Mind
In addition, village properties all have access to British trained medical staff, on duty at all times, via an aid call system linked to the village nursing home.
Village Facilities Include: » Two Swimming Pools » Public Restaurant » Hairdressing Salon
» Fountained Lake » Anglican Village Church » Doctor’s Surgery
» Tennis Court » Physiotherapy Unit » Regular service to local shops
Holiday Rentals Now Available
An exclusive selection of one and two bedroom village properties is now available on a weekly holiday rental basis – prices from £500 per property per week.
Make An Enquiry
For further information please contact Clive Roberts on ++351 289 990900 E-mail: montedapalhagueira@gmail.com | www.retirementvillageportugal.co.uk Monte da Palhagueira Village, Gorjôes, 8005-488 Sta. Barbara de Nexe, Algarve, Portugal. Part of the Amesbury Abbey Group, Church Street, Amesbury, Wiltshire SP4 7EX www.amesburyabbey.com
& PORTO SANTO Summer 2012 | www.madeira-life.net | â‚Ź4.50
Exclusive Interview The Mayor of Funchal, Dr. Miguel Albuquerque, discusses his two passions - the island of Madeira and his rose collection
Gardens of Madeira Landscape gardener, Gerald Luckhurst, enthuses about Madeira’s special gardens
View our digital magazine online at - www.madeira-life.net
Pão Vinho e Petiscos
Santo da Serra Golf
TRAVEL AGENCIES
Porto Bay Serra Golf****
Mozart
Palheiro Golf
Porto Santo Line
Porto Mare****
Do Forte
Story Centre
Blandy Travel
Eden Mare****
Casa Abrigo do Poiso
The Residence****
Armazém do Sal
SHOPS
Estalagem Do Vale****
SCAT Jazz Club
Loja dos Vinhos
E
Casa Velha Palheiro*****
VICE? R SER
Sixt rent a car
Madeira Explorers
U LIK
Bonita da Madeira
Leitão da Serra
LD YO
Churrasqueira Central
Quinta Bela Vista*****
U AT YO
Cliff Bay*****
WOU
MadPoint rent a car
CAR
SPAR (Grocery Stores)
CAR RENTAL
Catamaran da Madeira
A Portugal’s leading company of premium, chauffeur-driven cars presents its new fleet and international expansion to the United Kingdom and the United States of America
Vinhos Barbeito
Orca Praia***
LEISURE
Cidade Velha
Fidalguia, a rental company of premium, chauffeur-driven cars, has just announced the addition of 15 new cars to its fleet. An investment of over half a million euros, in order to keep up with the growth in business and to ensure it keeps its palace as leader and innovator in the premium private transport sector.
Madeira Wine Lodge
Torre Praia****
RESTAURANTS
Meliã Madeira Mare*****
According to Nuno Costa, Fidalguia’s CEO, “2012 has been a truly memorable year for us. Apart from celebrating our 15th birthday as a company, we hit the 2 million euro turnover watermark”. He added “It is very encouraging to see that the investment we made in marketing, infrastructure and human resources has enabled us to surpass even the most optimistic scenarios in our business case, especially considering these troubled economic times. We have overcome challenges with creativity and uncompromising levels of service, unstintingly meeting our clients’ needs and ambitions” he said.
Hotel Porto Santo****
HOTELS
Our Madeira Partners:
The diversity in types of vehicles, together with stringent training of the chauffeurs, has enabled Fidalguia to satisfy the most demanding customers, in Portugal and throughout Europe – be it the “Car at your Service” for business or practical purposes (meetings, shopping, etc); Transfers to any destination, namely airports, where personal assistance is required; or Fidalguia’s own “Circuits and Tours” for couples or group trips. Golf groups also enjoy this service, which can make a short break so much easier and more enjoyable! In 2011 and 2012, Fidalguia was awarded the prestigious Publituris Award for “Best Transfer Company”,for its high levels of service. These services can include a full concierge style service to book any arrangements that you may need or places that you would like to visit whilst you are in Portugal. Whatever the purpose of the trip, comfort and safety are always the company’s hallmark, ensuring you an exclusive and personalized level of services. The team of welltrained drivers are available 24hrs a day, speak several languages, can meet you at the airport, and take you wherever you want to go…..throughout Portugal!. Book online at www.fidalguia.pt, where you can find out more about the fleet, the exclusive tourism routes and other information on the company’s services and products. Alternatively if you like to speak to someone, to discuss what you need, or get some advice or prices, you can call: Mary Anne Popoff on 07712 106395 or Email mapopoff@live.co.uk
INTRODUCTION | MADEIRA LIFE & TRAVEL www.madeira-life.net
t gives me great pleasure in introducing the second issue of Madeira Life & Travel.
e online at - www.portugal-l
of fine products from Herdade
in both the Algarve and Southern
England
Doyenne in the nursing home world hotel – a place of rest, Herdade dos Grous – a boutique contemplation and enjoyment
Destination Alentejo Graham’s 1952 tawny port
- chosen to commemorate
JUBILEE PORT FIT FOR
the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee
A QUEEN
Publishers - The Portuguese Golf Club Limited The Old Chapel, Norton sub Hamdon Somerset TA14 6SG +44 (0)1935 881 762 www.callaghangroup.com The Callaghan Group Peter Callaghan - peter@callaghangroup.com +44 (0)1935 881 762 Andrew Callaghan - andrew@callaghangroup.com +44 (0)7831 316 565 Geoff Hedges - geoff@callaghangroup.com +44 (0)7501 256 947 Angela Semmons - accounts@callaghangroup.com Lisbon office: Amoreiras Torre 3 5 Piso 511, 1070-271 Lisbon Portugal Media Consultants Algarve: Maxine Marshall - maxine@callaghangroup.com +351 916 984 210
life.net | €4.50 Summer 2012 | www.portugal-
Golf Consultant Stuart Masson - stuart@callaghangroup.com +44 (0)7967 564 033
Front cover image: Courtesy Madeira Tourism Board
Mary Cornelius-Reid - icon
Financial Property Consultant Simon Perks - simon@perks-pfs.com +44 (0)1738 905 67 or +44 (0)7780 501 548
The cover photograph taken during this year’s flower festival parade evokes the atmosphere of this magnificent parade. of s den Gar Madeira I was fortunate enough to be a guest of Madeira Tourism through the kind invitation of the Mayor of Funchal, Dr. Miguel Albuquerque. For anyone who has not visited Madeira I can do no more than recommend the week of the annual flower festival in April. Patricia Mata’s report gives you further insight and photographs of the floats. The interview with Dr. Miguel Albuquerque was one of the most interesting I have had the pleasure of conducting. His charismatic approach to tourism was memorable and the visit to his English rose garden was truly unforgettable. life.net | €4.50 Summer 2012 | www.madeira-
Exclusive Interview
Miguel Albuquerque, The Mayor of Funchal, Dr. - the island of discusses his two passions Madeira and his rose collection
Luckhurst, Landscape gardener, Gerald special gardens enthuses about Madeira’s
-life.net | €4.50 Summer 2012 | www.portugal
ife.net
dos Grous
WIN A LUXURY HAMPER
Madeira Development Manager Patricia Mata - patricia@callaghangroup.com +351 966 971 860
& PORTO SANTO
life.net | €4.50 Summer 2012 | www.madeira-
Associate Editor Mary Wilson - mary.wilson@callaghangroup.com +44 (0)1983 525 300
Design & Production Phil Harding - phil@callaghangroup.com +351 916 606 226
I
View our digital magazin
Publisher Peter Callaghan - peter@callaghangroup.com +44 (0)1935 881 762
ife.net
e online at - www.madeira-l
View our digital magazin
Within this issue we have been fortunate to include the recreational water sports of diving and game fishing. My special thanks go to Gerald Luckhurst for his contribution on the gardens of Madeira. As I wrote in the first issue no visit to Madeira is complete until you have spent time on the delightful island of Porto Santo. In the spring I had the pleasure of meeting with Trevor Elliot and I am most grateful for his fascinating article on Madeira wines. His knowledge of this subject is invaluable and I hope you will take up the opportunity of his book offer, which appears on page 83. My thanks go once more to Patricia Mata who has worked tirelessly as our Development Manager on the Island and we collectively thank the tourism office of Madeira for their support and encouragement. I very much hope you will enjoy reading this colorful issue and I am confident that you will receive a warm welcome from this wonderful vibrant floating garden in the Atlantic. Central Region & Porto
Lisbon: Jonathan Elms - jonathan@callaghangroup.com +351 916 772 299 (PORTUGAL) Lucilia Guerreiro - lucilia@callaghangroup.com +351 917 813 574 Distribution Foremost Golf in association with Retail Tribe www.foremostgolf.com
Peter Callaghan Publisher - Madeira Life & Travel
The Portuguese Chamber of Commerce www.portuguese-chamber.org.uk Madeira Life & Travel is published 3 times per year and distributed to all Foremost golf club members throughout the UK. It is also published on-line at www.madeira-life.net Disclaimer: The publisher cannot accept responsibility for omissions or printing errors. All prices, conditions and facts are correct at the time of going to press. The publisher reserves the right to refuse any material used in Madeira Life & Travel magazine in any format or medium. Reproduction of any part of this magazine is strictly forbidden. Copyright: The Portuguese Golf Club Limited 2012 ISSN 1758 - 1494
Lisbon Blue Coast Estoril & Cascais West Region
P O RT U G A L
Azores
Western Algarve
Central Algarve
Eastern Algarve
Madeira
| www.madeira-life.net | Summer 2012 | 3
MADEIRA LIFE & TRAVEL | CONTENTS
Contents... 6 INTERVIEW | Dr. Miguel Albuquerque Publisher, Peter Callaghan meets Dr. Miguel Albuquerque, the Mayor of Funchal.
10 BELOW THE PEARL OF THE ATLANTIC | SCUBA DIVING Frances Rogers examines the underwater paradise of Madeira.
14 Palheiro Lifestyle | PALHEIRO ESTATE MADEIRA ISLAND Living in total luxury overlooking the Atlantic.
6
16 FEATURE | Big Game Fishing Madeira is one of the world’s most popular destinations for big game fishing for the last 40 years.
18 REVIEW | WINES OF MADEIRA The small and beautiful Portuguese island of Madeira is the home of a very special fortified wine.
22 FEATURE | BLANDY’S WINE LODGE A tour of Funchal is not complete without a visit to the most famous of all the Madeira Wine Lodges, Blandy’s Wine Lodge, located next to the municipal gardens in the city centre.
24 FEATURE | THE MADEIRA FLOWER FESTIVAL The Flower Festival is one of the most vivid and popular events in Madeira.
10
26 EVENT | PESTANA COMES TO TOWN The Pestana Hotel Chelsea hosted the first Madeira Flower & Wine Show in May of this year to coincide with the famous Chelsea Flower Show.
28 FEATURE | MADEIRA GARDENS Gerald Luckhurst is a landscape architect who has designed and built many gardens on Madeira.
34 COMPANY REVIEW | PORTO SANTO LINE The Porto Santo Line connects Madeira and its sister island, Porto Santo.
36 PROPERTY SPOTLIGHT | Madeira Real Estate
16
Mary Wilson reviews properties currently for sale on the island.
38 REVIEW | The Funchal Jazz Festival The Funchal Jazz Festival has been a growing cultural event since it was launched in 2000.
40 GOLF | FEATURED GOLF COURSE - SANTO DA SERRA Challenging golf in stunning scenery.
43 REVIEW | Restaurant Armazen do Sal Peter Callaghan experiences the gastronomic delights of Madeira
44 LATEST NEWS | TRAVEL & TOURISM A round-up of all the most recent developments in Madeira’s travel and tourism sector. 4 | Summer 2012 | www.madeia-life.net |
18
CONTENTS | MADEIRA LIFE & TRAVEL
24
22
28
26
34
38
40 | www.madeira-life.net | Summer 2012 | 5
INTERVIEW | Dr. Miguel Albuquerque
Left to right: Dr. Miguel Albuquerque, Patricia Mata and Peter Callaghan - Publisher
6 | Summer 2012 | www.madeira-life.net |
Dr. Miguel Albuquerque | INTERVIEW
Looking to the Future Publisher, Peter Callaghan meets Dr. Miguel Albuquerque, the Mayor of Funchal
I
drove to my meeting with Dr Miguel Albuquerque, the Mayor of Funchal, with a great deal of anticipation as he was to be the first Mayor I had ever had the honour of interviewing. Within minutes of entering his most splendid office, paneled with historic Portuguese tiles, I was instantly put at ease. He was one of the most charming and charismatic persons I have ever met. Perhaps it had helped we had met briefly the previous afternoon during the island’s grand floral parade. Here he introduced me to his two year old son, Alfonso and his mother, Sophia. I was the guest of the Madeira Tourism Board, able to view the magnificent floral floats from a high strategic position, an absolute must for visitors to see. I started by asking Dr Miguel if he would give me a brief biographical history of his life. He told me he was born in 1961 in Madeira and was educated in Lisbon. There he studied Law at University, gained a law degree and then entered politics in 1980 in the PSD (social democratic party) aged 19. He was elected President of Câmara Municipal do Funchal in 1994. He explained his father stood against Salazar in the silent revolution of 1931, so politics runs through his veins. Dr. Miguel has a very good knowledge of England. His stepfather was born in Nottingham and he is a regular visitor to the United Kingdom where he pursues two of his many hobbies, antiques and music.
Conversing in the most excellent English, Dr Miguel told me of his vision for Madeira. He explained in March of this year he announced his candidature to run for President of Madeira standing against Alberto João Jardim, who has lead his party for the past 34 years.
He is passionate about changing the way that the island is promoted, especially after the natural disaster which occurred two years ago. As many readers know, Madeira is a tranquil island with a benign climate that is not normally subject to severe weather events. But on 20th February 2010 a severe Atlantic depression, the like of which has not been seen since the early 1800’s, poured a weeks worth of rain on the mountains in a very short time. Dr Miguel explained the tourist and hotel areas were virtually unaffected but the deluge overwhelmed the rivers causing flooding and debris damage that was mainly limited of the proximity to the rivers. Being a modern society with a Mayor and City Council to match, the island was quick to recover and whilst some scars remain, Madeira has emerged stronger and friendlier than ever. Cleverly, a new promenade opposite where the cruise ships dock has been constructed from the fragments that were left behind. Time has healed the island, but now it is faced with trying to encourage a new generation of visitors. As someone pointed out to me, Madeira once had the unfortunate image of – ‘for the nearly wed and the nearly dead’, but this has to change. It is vibrant and has much to offer the modern day tourist. Dr Miguel feels the island needs to sell itself better, giving the example of Turkey where a huge amount of investment has been put into their tourism budget. Madeira needs to follow Turkey’s initiative as the island has so much to offer to the visitor. However, you do have to be fit to enjoy every aspect of the island!
With over 30,000 beds available on the island it has to be re-sold, Dr Miguel told me. “It has one of the most fantastic climates in Europe, it is the floating garden of the Atlantic. The island is an absolute must for anyone who does not know it”. His desire was to get across to me one very important point, “the island also has something else to offer – safety. It has very little crime and violence against tourists is very, very rare”. He went on to say, “too many people today think that Madeira is something you put into a cake or leave on a dessert trolley: very few people are aware today that the island produces some of the world’s greatest fortified wines”. It was here Dr Miguel broke away from tourism and the interview switched direction when he told me at length of his love of roses. I had no idea the Mayor of Funchal had a rose garden, let alone a most beautiful rose garden. Quinta do Arco is a must for everyone to visit, a subtropical oasis hidden on the outskirts of Arco de Sao Jorge, very like a National Trust garden in Surrey, but with a volcanic backdrop.
Madeira has one of the most fantastic climates in Europe, it is the floating garden of the Atlantic. The island is an absolute must for anyone who does not know it. | www.madeira-life.net | Summer 2012 | 7
INTERVIEW | Dr. Miguel Albuquerque
He had invited me the following day to visit his garden set on the northern side of the island and see for myself his other passion, roses. Quinta do Arco is the most fabulous place to escape to. Not only did he design the garden himself but he has also written several books on the subject, is a member of the Royal National Rose Society, the Federation of Rose Societies and the American Rose Society. In the garden, I saw over 1,500 varieties and I was told there were over 17,000 roses growing there. I wondered how a man with so many talents had time for politics let alone run for presidency and perhaps even lend his hand to pruning? He is also an author of several books on politics! I have had the opportunity of meeting many people in my career, but I think Dr Miguel Albuquerque is one of the most 8 | Summer 2012 | www.madeira-life.net |
enthusiastic men I have ever met: he thinks and breathes Madeira. He is also an accomplished musician; he plays the piano to a very high standard. He told me that his love for music dates back to when he was young and how as a young student he used to earn money playing in some of the hotels on the island. Should Dr Miguel be elected President in 2013, islanders will witness a huge change. He wants to see the island encourage more and more people to sample Madeira, to walk amongst its nature, see the abundance of the flora and fauna. He is a man of vision; you can almost see his foresight in his eyes. On the subject of his eyes, they lit up when I mentioned the subject of Madeira’s sister island Porto Santo. He agreed with me the island has huge opportunities and more tourists need to be encouraged to visit it.
Regrettably at present, Dr Miguel told me there are not enough flights directly to the island, but readers should know - the island is never closed to visitors! The fabulous golf course designed by Seve Ballesteros is open throughout the year (see pages 40 and 41) and the island’s wonderful beaches really have to be seen to be believed. Porto Santo is a glittering charm on the bracelet suspended from Madeira’s archipelago. The old English expression of a safe pair of hands dates back to Victorian days, it means a reliable person who can be entrusted not to make a mistake. Madeira can relax knowing their island is in very safe in Dr Miguel Albuquerque’s hands.
visitmadeira.pt
An island blessed by the sun, but in love with the sea. MADEIRA ALL YEAR ROUND
BELOW THE PEARL OF THE ATLANTIC | SCUBA DIVING
Underwater Paradise By Frances Rogers
10 | Summer 2012 | www.madeira-life.net |
SCUBA DIVING | BELOW THE PEARL OF THE ATLANTIC
I
f you knock on a stone just outside of Esmeralda’s home, she’ll always pop out her head to see who’s there” says Sittika Nasufow, who runs the Manta Diving Centre with her partner, Stefan Maier. Sittika isn’t talking about a little old lady who lives on her own; but a huge blue eyed 1.3 metre long brown Moray eel, which has lived in the same hole in one of the diving areas in the underwater nature reserve for 30 years.
Pictures courtesy of Pedro Vasconcelos
Madeira is an excellent place to dive as warm ridges of the Gulf Stream allow the water temperature to wallow between 18 degrees to 24 degrees all year round. “One of the good things about diving here is that there are no thermalclines” says Sittika. This means that there is no drop in temperature from the top of the water to 34 metres down, which is an important consideration when diving.
With both Atlantic and Gulf Stream influences, there is a wide variety of sea life, almost as good as that in tropical waters. Many exotic, brightly coloured fish can be seen from parrot fish to puffer fish, red hogfish to blue fine damsel fish, as well as many massive fish such as giant groupers, barracudas and rays and more delicate species like the orange, yellow and brown seahorses or colourful prawns. And if you are lucky, you’ll be able see Manta Rays or even a Monk Seal.
| www.madeira-life.net | Summer 2012 | 11
BELOW THE PEARL OF THE ATLANTIC | SCUBA DIVING
Pictures courtesy of Manta Dive Centre
Cap Garajau was voted by professional divers for the biggest German diving magazine, tauchen, as one of 100 most beautiful diving areas in the world and Manta Diving is located centrally on the domestic reef at Garajau, which drops down to 34 metres. The nearest diving point is only a few metres from the shore. This has a diving depth of between 5 and 25 metres and is suitable for beginners, intermediate and advanced divers. The reef here is like an amphitheatre, with a backdrop of impressive rock formations and a 10 metre tunnel, through which you can swim, flooded with light. Reef inhabitants include a rich variety of shoals of fish, trumpet fish, grouper, barracuda, mackerel, locust lobster and reef lobsters. Esmeralda lives at Lavafinger, another dive site, where there is a small cave and a steep rock face and at Ponta da Oliveira, the lava flow extends down to 28 metres. Here there is a large cave, 50 metres long, 20 metres wide and 12 metres deep with a large air bubble at the end where divers can surface. In this location, you might 12 | Summer 2012 | www.madeira-life.net |
be lucky enough to spot one of the rare Atlantic Monk Seals, which come into the cave to rest and sleep and because it is a protected area, they know they can always find fish. Monk Seals were taken to the Desertas Islands many years ago to breed and to increase their numbers, but now they are coming back to Madeira. “If you take a boat out to reach one of the furthest of the diving areas, you often find our ‘handsome’ groupers come up when they hear the motors of the boat. They follow us like dogs. They can be up to 1.5 metres in length and you might find 50 to 60 come so close” says Sittika. Madeira Divepoint is based at the Hotel Pestana Carlton. The centre is a 5 star PADI dive resort run by Wilfried Pilzer and Ralph Hein, who run many courses from Discover Scuba in the pool or sea to a PADI Adventure Diver and Specialist courses including a Rescue Diver course. The centre has been running for 10 years, is open all year round and has shore and boat diving areas. Right in front of the diving centre is
an excellent shallow dive area, going from 3 to 12 metres, which is great for beginners as it shelves very gradually. Their boat takes divers to deeper sites and they have two wrecks, one of which is the infamous dredger, Bowbelle, which ran down and sank The Marchioness on the Thames in London in 1989. The boat was brought to Madeira after the tragedy, but sadly sunk in 1996. It is still in perfect condition and sits on the ground at about 30 metres. “We dive there in the summer every week and it is a very good place to dive” says Wilfried. The centre also dives in the National Park. “There is some pretty and colourful coral on the rocks, which is solitary rather than creating a reef and we also have some black coral, some 25 – 35 metres down. There is also black coral around the wrecks”. Wilfried also runs a second dive school from the Hotel Pestana Palms in Funchal. Focusnatura is a diving centre/school located in Santa Cruz and at the Hotel Four Views Oasis in the Caniço. This is
SCUBA DIVING | BELOW THE PEARL OF THE ATLANTIC the only diving centre managed by a Madeiran, Pedro Vasconcelos and it runs courses from Discover Scuba Diver to the Instructors Training. It is also the only centre that is equipped with ‘Rebreathers’, making it possible for the Technical and Close Circuit Divers to reach the splendid deep waters and allowing longer dives. “Madeira offers places of excellence for Technical diving lovers, which unfortunately is not widely promoted” says Pedro. The centre also organises diving trips to more unusual locations, including São Lourenço, the Desertas Islands and the Wolf Marine reserve and for people that wish to take a reminder of their discoveries back with them, they also have video and photographic specialists who can capture that special moment for them, under the waters of the Pearl of the Atlantic. All divers have to bring a medical statement to say they are fit to dive.
For further information contact: Manta Diving Centre 00 351 291 935 588 www.mantadiving.com Madeira Divepoint 00 351 291 239 579 www.divemadeira.com Scuba Madeira 00 351 291 709 227 www.scuba-madeira.com Focusnatura, Santa Cruz 00 351 918 479 922 www.focusnatura.com
Pictures courtesy of Pedro Vasconcelos
Palheiro Lifestyle
Rua do Golfe nº. 07 – the perfect property from which to enjoy the lifestyle of the Palheiro Estate For sale via the Palheiro Estate’s real estate mediation company, ImoPalheiro Lda, for €2.100.000 Rua do Golfe nº. 07 is a stunning fivebedroom villa lying adjacent to the Palheiro Golf course with sweeping views over the Bay of Funchal. Designed by international architects Michael Brown Associates, this recently completed luxury villa spans over 600m2 and is the perfect property from which to enjoy the lifestyle of the Palheiro Estate with its 18 hole Golf course, luxury hotel
and spa, and historic gardens, as well as the natural beauty of Madeira Island. The villa features an American style kitchen, dining and family room, vaulted ceiling and coved up-lighting in upper floor rooms, under-floor heating and multi-functional air-conditioning throughout, wide use of natural stone and terracotta, a heated outdoor infinity pool, vast pool terraces and landscaped gardens.
For a full specification or for further information, contact :
imopalheiro@palheiroestate.com www.palheirorealestate.com Ref. nº. L28
ImoPalheiro Lda currently offers larger luxury villas on the Lotemento Palheiro Golf development, as well as re-sale properties in Palheiro Village, and is now expanding to include a small selection of unique properties in key locations in Funchal and around the island.
Palheiro Estate, Madeira Island Today starts with: Him
Her
✔
A round of golf on the Palheiro Golf course A walk around Palheiro Gardens Lunch at the Clubhouse Big game fishing on the Balancal
✔
Relaxing at Palheiro Spa A swim at the Village Forum Stay at home and appreciate the view
Located on a prime hilltop site overlooking Funchal, the 130 hectare Palheiro Estate has grown from an early 19th century hunting lodge and summer retreat for nobility into a sophisticated resort destination. We invite you to stay with us, either at the hotel Casa Velha do Palheiro, a member of Relais & Chateaux, or in the award winning Palheiro Village, with its magnificent views over the Bay of Funchal – or let the beautiful island of Madeira become a more important part of your life by investing in a home here. Freehold property prices from € 325.000 Attractive offers available for investor and lifestyle buyers.
B EST D E V E LO P M E NT P OR TU G AL
T. +351 291 794 015 F. +351 291 794 022 real.estate@palheiroestate.com www.palheiroestate.com Golf · Hotel · Spa · Restaurants Gardens · Big Game Fishing Property Sales · Property Rentals
20878 AdS
Palheiro Estate, the only thing we can´t do for you is choose.
FEATURE | Big Game Fishing
Adrenalin Essential By Frances Rogers
16 | Summer 2012 | www.madeira-life.net |
Big Game Fishing | FEATURE
B
ig game fishing is one of the most exciting, exhilarating sports – if you have a lot of patience! You can hang around for hours without a nibble, but when that big fish does come along, the adrenalin rush is worth the long wait.
Madeira has been one of the world’s most popular destinations for big game fishing for the last 40 years. In 1973, the first Atlantic blue marlin was ‘officially’ landed, by Dr António Ribeiro - a magnificent beast reportedly weighing in at 740 lbs (the fish, not Dr. Ribeiro!) His sons, Antonio and Joe still take to the seas in pursuit of the ‘Big One’. The island is ideally placed at the migratory route for large game fish and the depths teem with sea life. The summer months, between May and October, bring with them an abundance of sleek shark, Atlantic blue marlin and other splendid billfish. In winter, from February through to late April when Madeira’s warm aqua marine waters turn a cooler shade of green. the change in the weather draws in feisty Bluefin, albacore and bigeye tuna, among other species that swim near the surface. Over the past few years, some of the world’s largest blue marlin have been caught off Madeira. Every July 4th, the Blue Marlin World Cup - the only worldwide blue marlin fishing tournament – takes place and Madeira has been the location of winning teams in 1995, 1996 and 1997, narrowly missing out for a fourth time in 2000.
One way to enjoy the best of big game fishing is to charter the private sport-fishing vessel, such as the Balancal, which is moored at Funchal marina. This is available exclusively for residents and guests of Palheiro Estate and the powerful, twin-engine motor yacht is suitable for eight persons and has a fly bridge with covered helm position. An original Pompanette fighting chair, all the way from Florida, is positioned at the stern. A day out on the ocean in search of the ‘Big One’ is an adrenaline-fuelled adventure. The steely-eyed Atlantic blue marlin is smart and swift, a cunning adversary and the ultimate catch for any angler. To land a fish like this takes skill, courage and a boatload of respect for one of nature’s most majestic and aweinspiring creatures. Guests of Hotel Casa Velha do Palheiro can have their catch of dourado, tuna, wahoo and blue fish cooked for them. Billfish, which include shark and marlin, are released after being caught. The Balancal can also be chartered for more leisurely pursuits like whale and dolphin watching, coastal cruises, swimming, and special excursions. For further information go to: www.madeira-marlin.com
The average weight of a marlin is around 700 lbs, although about one in ten landed is that ‘fish of a lifetime’ - the grander blue marlin. These huge creatures swim in predominantly calm blue waters, with the run to reach these leviathans practically non-existent. In fact, it is not uncommon to catch fish within one kilometre of Funchal marina! Big eye tuna in excess of 150 lbs are regularly caught, with some even weighing in at over 200 lbs. Albacore, while not so big, still prove a worthwhile adversary and can be lured using lighter tackle. | www.madeira-life.net | Summer 2012 | 17
REVIEW | WINES OF MADEIRA
Harvest the Grape The small and beautiful Portuguese island of Madeira is a well-known tourist destination receiving approximately 1 million visitors a year. For me, it is not only a wonderful place to visit but it is the home of a very special fortified wine. By Trevor Elliott
18 | Summer 2012 | www.madeira-life.net |
WINES OF MADEIRA | REVIEW
T
he small and beautiful Portuguese island of Madeira is a well-known tourist destination receiving approximately 1 million visitors a year. For me, it is not only a wonderful place to visit but it is the home of a very special fortified wine. I tasted my first Madeira wine when I enrolled on a wine course over 20 years ago and I can still vividly remember the experience. It was like no other wine I had ever tasted. What impressed me was the intensity of the aromas of honey and raisins and the rich taste of caramel, honey, nuts and spices. Although sweet, it was not ‘cloying’ because of the fresh acidity. I resolved to find out more about this very special wine. During the past 20 years, I have become a regular visitor to the island and its wineries. Visiting at various times of the year, I have had the privilege of seeing the grapes being harvested, the various stages of wine production and then had the opportunity of tasting wines of varying ages, some dating back to the 1800’s and still amazingly fresh and having wonderful intensity and flavours. How can a wine last that long? What is so special about Madeira wines? Their unique character is due to the heating and prolonged oxidation during production, especially the aging process, which gives them ‘special’ aromas and flavours and incredible longevity. This is very different from most wines, where the winemaker avoids high temperatures and oxidation. This small island has a very rugged terrain, with very steep slopes and land is a valuable commodity, especially with the increase of tourism over the years. The most recent statistics (2010) show the total plantings of Vitis vinifera vines, used for the production of fortified Madeira wine and table wines, is just 493.7 hectares with a total annual production of around 4 million litres. From a large number of producers in the past there are just eight today and only one owns vineyards. The rest of the grapes are grown by approximately 1600 registered growers, for many of whom growing vines is not their main occupation.
Five main grape varieties are used. Four white varieties are each used to make one ‘sweetness’ style: Sercial (dry); Verdelho (medium dry); Bual (medium sweet) and Malvasia (sweet). A red variety, Tinta Negra, from which the majority of wines are made, is used to make all four sweetness styles. After harvesting, which usually starts in the last week of August or the first week of September, the grapes are fermented using natural yeasts, thus changing the sugars in the grapes into alcohol. During fermentation the wines are fortified by adding grape spirit. This stops the fermentation. The timing is very important and the sweeter the wine required, the earlier the fortification will take place. After fortification, the wines start their aging process. The first stage is carried out in one of two ways. In the Canteiro process, the wines are aged in wooden casks of various sizes, which are kept in lodges heated by the sun over a period of two years. This process was developed in the 17th century, when it was found that wines exported to the Indies, but returned unsold, had improved in quality despite having been subjected to very high temperatures during their passage through the tropics. The Estufagem process, dating from the 18th century, which is quicker and more intense, involves heating the wines, usually in stainless steel tanks, between 45 – 50oC for a period of 3 months. This process is normally used for wines to be sold young and made from Tinta Negra grapes.
I tasted my first Madeira wine over 20 years ago and I can still vividly remember the experience. It was like no other wine I had ever tasted. | www.madeira-life.net | Summer 2012 | 19
REVIEW | WINES OF MADEIRA
After the initial stage, the wines are tested for quality and potential for further aging. The youngest wines sold are 3 years old. Most wines are blends of different ages, having an average age of 5 (Reserve), 10 (Old Reserve), 15 and 20 years. Also made are wines from single harvests. These will be bottled and sold after being aged for a minimum of 5 years (Colheita) or 20 years (Vintage).
stored upright. Unlike most wines, Madeiras do not deteriorate quickly once opened, so they can, if the temptation is resisted, be enjoyed over a long period of time. If you have never tasted Madeira wines, you have missed a great experience.
During aging, many changes take place, including the caramelisation of the sugars, giving rise to the typical aromas and flavours. These can include: fruits, nuts, spices, dried fruits, caramel, honey and chocolate. Madeira wines are extremely versatile and can be drunk on their own or with food. The wines can be served at room temperature, although some producers recommend slightly cooling dry wines. Bottles should be
20 | Summer 2012 | www.madeira-life.net |
Wines of Madeira is written and published by Trevor Elliott. For our Readers Offer see page 42.
FEATURE | BLANDY’S WINE LODGE
22 | Summer 2012 | www.madeira-life.net |
BLANDY’S WINE LODGE | FEATURE
The Blandy’s Wine Lodge A tour of Funchal is not complete without a visit to the most famous of all the Madeira Wine Lodges, Blandy’s Wine Lodge, located next to the municipal gardens in the city centre
C
elebrating 200 years since the establishment of the company in 1811, Blandy’s Madeira took shape at the beginning of the 19th century in what was an annex to the 17th Century São Francisco Monastery.
Unique artifacts and historical documents recount the history of the family and their wines and records show some of the many famous visitors who visited the Lodge over the years.
For 200 years the Blandy family has dedicated their time, art and passion to the creation of their highly appreciated and world-famous wines, Blandy’s Madeira.
OPENING HOURS: Monday to Friday from 10:00 to 18:30 Saturdays from 10:00 to 13:00 Closed Sundays and Public Holidays Daily Tour and Tasting available
Still very much in use today, the Blandy’s Wine Lodge is where the finest wines are aged using traditional methods. Take a tour through the lodge to learn the art of barrel making at the cooperage and visit the warm lofts where over 650 barrels (720.000 litres) of the finest Madeiras age.
CONTACTS: Avenida Arriaga, 28 - Funchal Tel.: 291 740 110 Fax : 291 740 111 Email: pubrel@madeirawinecompany.com www.blandys.com
Wine tasting takes place in the “Max Römer” room; a room with a unique atmosphere surrounded by beautiful murals by this renowned German artist depicting the process from grape to wine. Cross over to the ‘Frasqueira’ or the vintage Cellar where the rarest and oldest vintage Madeiras are stored. Wines dating back to the early 20th Century can be tasted, from the 1920 Bual to the 1984 Verdelho, the most recent vintage to be bottled by the company. A visit to the museum illustrates why Madeira wine is one of the island’s oldest and most important ambassadors. | www.madeira-life.net | Summer 2012 | 23
FEATURE | THE MADEIRA FLOWER FESTIVAL
Floral Pageant By Patricia Mata
T
he Flower Festival is one of the most vivid and most popular events in Madeira, taking place each year in April or May. And it never fails to stimulate the senses, both visually and aromatically. Flowers have been a fundamental feature of the landscape of Madeira for many years, as its mild climate allows for a wide diversity of plants to bloom everywhere. Since 1979, Funchal has celebrated the arrival of spring by paying a tribute to flowers with its colourful and delightful Flower Festival.
24 | Summer 2012 | www.madeira-life.net |
THE MADEIRA FLOWER FESTIVAL | FEATURE
The festival actually started its life as the Rose Cotillion (Ball of the Rose), an exhibition of flowers that took place in 1955 at Ateneu Comercial do Funchal. This was a great success and in the ensuing years, the event changed its name to Flower Festival. Then in 1979, which was the International Year of Children, the Madeira Tourism Board decided to enhance the event and instigated the now traditional children’s walk to the Town Hall Square in order to build the ‘Wall of Hope’. Other festivities and celebrations were also added including the flower parade, the floral competitions – shop window and blooming gardens, and musical displays. Now, impressive floral carpets are created by Madeiran ‘artists’ (local volunteers) and these are strategically displayed along the main streets of Funchal. Every year, there are performances by folk groups, classical music concerts and variety shows in various locations around the city. However, it is in the Float Parade where the Madeiran people’s artistry is most evident.
Every year there is a theme and for 2012, it was ‘An anthem to Madeira in Blossom’. The event started on Saturday morning, 19th April, with the Children’s Parade, where hundreds of children, dressed for the occasion, went to the Municipal Square (Largo do Municipio), each holding a flower and lined up to create a beautiful wall of flowers - ‘The Wall of Hope’. At the end hundreds of doves were released in a call for world peace. The following day, on Sunday afternoon, the main street of Funchal’s downtown, Avenida do Mar, was filled with music and colour, with a splendid parade involving nine symbolic floats and over a thousand participants. Each group wore costumes festooned with creative floral decorations and danced to the sound of graceful music alongside dancers performing exciting choreographies. More than half of the participants were children aged between 5 -12 years old. As well as the Main Parade, there was a Flower Exhibition in Largo da Restauração, where the flower arrangements made by
different school groups were displayed, and where an artist worked on her paintings featuring flowers. Alongside the main artery of Funchal, Avenida Arriaga, you were able to see how the floral carpets are actually constructed and also visit the Flower Market, which has displays of a wide range of plants and flower bulbs to take home. As always, Funchal was very much alive, with the participation of folk and ethnic groups who, through traditional music and dance, presented the traditions, habits and customs of Madeira. The Flower Festival of Madeira has increasingly attracted attention in recent years, and its importance as a tourist attraction has granted it an extraordinary reputation in the international and national tourism domain. It is the perfect time to enjoy to the full the outstanding beauty of Madeira, which is already well known for its spectacular nature, its rich culture and warm hospitality of its people.
| www.madeira-life.net | Summer 2012 | 25
EVENT | MADEIRA COMES TO TOWN
BEST AT CHELSEA T
he Pestana Hotel Chelsea hosted the first Madeira Flower & Wine Show in May of this year to coincide with the famous Chelsea Flower Show just across the River Thames. The most spectacular floral display transformed this luxury hotel into another Pearl of the Atlantic.
Pestana Hotels and Resorts in association with Madeira Tourism and the Funchal Chamber of Commerce organised a spectacular event, with displays showing Madeira’s exquisite natural island beauty. A number of most distinguished guests attended the show. The Mayor of Funchal, Dr Miguel Albuquerque welcomed the many guests and there were also speeches by HE the Ambassador of Portugal and representatives of both Tourism Madeira and Tourism Portugal. London has never had the opportunity to witness such an occasion, one that several hundred people who attended will never be able to forget. The floral girls flown in especially from the island, added a most delightful touch. The canopies and the wines from the island proved to be extremely popular with the guests and special mention has to go to Mrs Lynettte Esposito and the staff of the hotel for their superb organization. The Pestana Hotel in Chelsea was opened in 2010 and is without doubt proving to be one of London’s most popular hotels. Their attention to detail and the special Portuguese welcome you receive is of the highest standard; many hope this event becomes a regular fixture to run alongside The Chelsea Flower Show.
Pestana Chelsea Bridge **** London, United Kingdom 354 Queenstown Road, London SW8 4AE, London Tel: +(44) (0)2070628000 Email: chelsea.bridge@pestana.com www.pestana.com 26 | Summer 2012 | www.madeira-life.net |
MADEIRA COMES TO TOWN | EVENT
Top Left, from left to right: Gerald Luckhurst, Ricardo Diogo, chairman of Vinhos Barbeito, Isabel Borges, from Esboço Interiores and Portuguese Ambassador João de Vallera, Middle Right, from left to right: Paulo Prada - member of the board of Pestana Group, Isabel Borges - Esboço Interiores, Bruno Freitas - Madeira Director of Tourism and Filipe Silva - Director Turismo de Portugal, London. Bottom left, from left to right: Luiza Pestana, Portuguese Ambassador João de Vallera, Dr. Miguel Albuquerque - Mayor of Funchal and other top table guests. Bottom right, from left to right: Luiza Pestana toasting the event with guests.
| www.madeira-life.net | Summer 2012 | 27
FEATURE | MADEIRA GARDENS
The Gardens of Madeira Gerald Luckhurst is a landscape architect and expert plantsman, who has designed and built many gardens on Madeira.
28 | Summer 2012 | www.madeira-life.net |
MADEIRA GARDENS | FEATURE
| www.madeira-life.net | Summer 2012 | 29
FEATURE | MADEIRA GARDENS
You can find the flora of six continents in the Public Garden, Funchal’s historic park right in the centre of town
30 | Summer 2012 | www.madeira-life.net |
MADEIRA GARDENS | FEATURE
M
adeira, literally the island of wood or timber, was covered by a vast primeval forest when it was discovered by Zarco, the Portuguese navigator, in 1419. So impressed were the early settlers at the abundance of this paradise that the first children born on the islands, twins, were named Adam and Eve. Madeira today remains a garden of Eden with plants brought from the four corners of the earth. There is perhaps no where else on the planet where such a huge variety of garden plants can be found growing together.
The original vegetation of the island still covers large areas of the mountainous interior. This is the forest of the laurisilva, which in 1999 was declared a World Heritage Site, thus guaranteeing the survival of this tremendous wildlife resource. Plants from the forest are now found in the gardens of Funchal, the island’s capital, especially Echium candicans, known as the Pride of Madeira, a dramatic bush with tall blue candelabra flowers and the Madeira Geranium, Geranium maderense, which makes an impressive mound of lilac coloured flowers supported on stilts formed by backward-turned leaves. But it is for the plants brought to Madeira by travellers of the globe that have made these gardens famous. You can find the flora of six continents in the Public Garden, Funchal’s historic park right in the centre of town. There are tall Asian bamboos, Cedars from North America, Jacarandas from Brazil, African Cycads looking as prehistoric as dinosaurs, Australian tree ferns as tall as palm trees and most surprising of all cottage garden Hollyhocks from Europe.
Visitors to the island make a bee-line for the Botanic gardens. This is based at the Quinta de Bom Sucesso, once the country house of William Reid founder of the famous hotel that still bears his name. A good place to start since the bewildering number of plants in the collection are well-labelled and the magnificent view over the bay gives a good orientation for further exploration of the island. From here there is a cable car to Monte, up higher into the mountains, where the extravagant Monte Palace Gardens can be visited. As well as plants these gardens boast a host of sculptures, Portuguese azulejo tiles, and a grotto full of precious minerals. There is an amazing Cycad garden, several Japanese Gardens with Koi carp ponds, and woodlands full of flowers and abundant cascades of water. Really keen gardeners should not miss the orchids at the Quinta da Boa Vista. This is a nursery and display run by Betty Garton and her son Patrick. The orchids were originally amassed by Sir William Cooke, beginning in the nineteenth century, but the collection has been developed and improved by his family ever since. As well as orchids there are spectacular bromeliads and climbing plants. Madeira Magic, which I designed, is a garden that celebrates the global origins of all these plants. It is laid out with distinct areas each containing large displays of flowers designated by their respective continents. It is amusing to see the astonishment of visiting school children who refuse to believe that familiar Madeira garden flowers have in fact come from the other side of the world. A good example is the Strelitzia, bird of
paradise flower, which although it has been used as a symbol of Madeira by the Tourism Board is in fact native to South Africa. One plant that the children can claim as their own is, however, the famous dragon tree, which used to grow in large numbers along the sea cliffs and is now planted in abundance in this garden. Travellers to the island interested in plants can choose to stay in a number of hotels with interesting gardens. For many years the Town Hall ran an annual gardens competition between them. The most frequent winner was the Pestana Village Hotel which has a huge variety of flowering plants that overwhelms the buildings, bougainvilleas, beaumontias and roses clamber over the walls and up into the palm trees, the garden is planned around small relaxing areas of lawn surrounded by deep flowerbeds filled with sub-tropical plants: tall bananas underplanted with begonias and fuchsias, geraniums and many other things that most people would recognise only as greenhouse or conservatory plants. There are similar gardens at Reid’s Palace and the PortoMare resort. Up high in the mountains there are the extensive gardens of the Choupana Hills Resort. Gardens with a more contemporary feel, yet still full of plants can be found at the Pestana Grand and the brand new Pestana Promenade, both have colourful patterns of plants laid out in lawns beneath tall palms.
The Gardens of Madeira, by Gerald Luckhurst, is published by Frances Lincoln. For our Readers Offer, see page 42. | www.madeira-life.net | Summer 2012 | 31
Everything you need and much more!
CANIÇO DE BAIXO Tribo D’Encantos R. D. Francisco Santana, Edf. Ventura, Loja D 9125-031 Caniço
FUNCHAL Dunaspar Rua Simplício Passos Gouveia, Ed. Lido View Loja A 9000-001 Splendid Choice R. da Casa Branca, Edf. Varanda Lido, Fração 1D S. Martinho 9000
FUNCHAL Mercadinho da Ajuda Estrada Monumental, nº 186 Ed. Quinta Miramar, Loja 3 9000-098 Rua Imperatriz D. Amélia, Edf. Rida, nº66 9000 Funchal
Always by your side...
COMPANY REVIEW | PORTO SANTO LINE
Cruise to Porto Santo T
he Porto Santo Line has the enviable monopoly for connecting Madeira and its sister island, Porto Santo.
It won the public tender to operate the sea transportation line between the two islands in October 1995 and a year later the company acquired a ship, which would be able to offer safety, a regular service and in comfort.
34 | Summer 2012 | www.madeira-life.net |
Her maiden trip was on the 8th of June 1996, after the ship had been adapted to the Madeira market by transforming its interior. A 1st class lounge was added as well as its side ramps and with its new image, she was given a new name, ‘Lobo Marinho (Sea Wolf )’. Seven years later in 2003, the Porto Santo Line company invested in a new ship, having gained
funding from the European Community and the Regional Government. She was named Lobo Marinho 11 and some say the ship is similar to a luxury mini cruise liner. The connection between Madeira and Porto Santo had now become much more comfortable and more desirable.
PORTO SANTO LINE | COMPANY REVIEW
This delightful high quality ship provides the answer to everyone’s expectations and certainly makes the journey an unforgettable one. The ship is 112 metres long and has an average cruising speed of 21 knots, with a capacity for 1,153 passengers and 47 crew members. It can also transport 160 passenger cars, or 18 containers or trucks and 100 small cars. In terms of services and infrastructure, the ship has a cinema for up to 120 people, a multimedia room, a children’s room, small shopping area, three restaurants, several bars and a first class area located with strategic views whilst departing and arriving on both islands. On clear days, passengers are able to see either of the islands throughout the voyage.
She makes the journey between the two islands in just over two hours, cutting over an hour off the previous journey time. On her inaugural cruise into Funchal’s harbour, Lobo Marinho 11 was followed by numerous smaller boats and jet skis, whilst hundreds of people lined the waters edge of the harbour, all wanting a closer look at the new pride of Madeira. Porto Santo, with its golden sandy beaches, is the second largest island in the Madeira Archipelago and is situated 36 miles northeast of Madeira. According to history, it was discovered in 1418 and was given the name, as it had provided a ‘port of shelter’ from a bad storm. Porto Santo boasts long beaches of fine yellow sand known for its therapeutic properties, as well as its calm warm blue sea with temperatures ranging between 18ºC
and 22ºC. The local climate is stable and dry and the temperatures do not vary much between the seasons, which makes it a very pleasant place to visit all the year round. Besides relaxing on the magnificent five mile stretch of beach, visitors are able to choose from several different water sports, horseback riding, golf and walks along spectacular foot paths. Enjoying the island’s arid landscapes and taking in the atmosphere and the true hospitality of the local population is an absolute must – no visit to Madeira is complete unless you have visited the island and enjoyed the mini cruise there and back on the Sea Wolf the Second. For more information, visit: www.portosantoline.pt | www.madeira-life.net | Summer 2012 | 35
Santana A magnificent stone house in Santana: this lovely old building is surrounded by fruit trees in a 5,000 square metre plot.
A dream country house implemented in a tranquil zone, a stone throw away from Santo da Serra Golf course (home to the PGA European Tour). This Detached house is surrounded by a wonderfully kept lawn and endemic plants, watered by its own spring water source. The interior of this house holds a master suit with a walk in closet plus 2 other bedrooms, all privileged with a veranda. There is an extra room that can be used a study area and spacious living areas with a fully equipped Kitchen. All covered in high quality wooden floors and isolated with double glazed windows. This country house benefits from a great sun exposition and a superb view through the valley, all in a total area of 2500 square metres. Within 10 minutes from the Airport | Santo da Serra| Madeira. Sale Price: 300.000 Euros
For more information please contact: Marcelino Menezes Mobile: (+351) 964553048 | Email: marcelinomenezes@sapo.pt
It is 5 minutes from the beach and is in a very good condition. The house has three bedrooms, good living space and is in a very quiet location with countryside views.
Price: â‚Ź435,000. Remax Elite Tel: 00 351 910 081 311 www.remax.pt
Madeira Real Estate | PROPERTY SPOTLIGHT
Property for Sale in Madeira By Mary Wilson
Calheta
Caniço de Baixo
Palheiro Village
An immaculate three bedroom villa with sea and mountain views, built in 1999, in Calheta: Perfect for outdoor living with a covered barbecue area and wood burning stove. It has four bathrooms, modern kitchen, studio/ office and two reception rooms. The irrigated landscaped gardens surround the swimming pool and garage for two cars.
Smart villa in the seaside location of Caniço de Baixo: A three-storey, three-bedroom villa in a 900m2 plot with excellent views. A marble floored entrance opens into a dining room. The living room has a fireplace and there’s an office and custom-built kitchen on the ground floor. With garage, swimming pool, barbecue area and lawn plus storage and changing area in the basement.
New villa in Palheiro Village on the luxury Palheiro Estate resort: This light and spacious three-bedroom villa has views over the Bay of Funchal and the Atlantic Ocean. It has an open plan lounge/dining room with vaulted ceiling and under floor heating, extensive terrace areas for al-fresco living, basement storage and a 5 metre pool with jet-stream swimming system.
Price: €495,000
Price: €1,200,000
Price: €960,000
Nobrega Realty Tel: 00 351 291 766 780 www.nobregarealty.com
Pink Real Estate Tel: 00 351 291 759 177 www.pinkrealestate.pt
Palheiro Estate Tel: 00 351 291 794 015 www.palheiroestate.com | www.madeira-life.net | Summer 2012 | 37
FEATURE | The Funchal Jazz Festival
The Funchal Jazz Festival By Patricia Mata
T
he Funchal Jazz Festival has been a growing cultural event since it was launched in 2000. International artists such as Dianna Reeves, Eliane Elias, Tania Maria, Ivan Lins, Arturo Sandoval, Nicholas Payton, Brecker Brothers have played here, along with many other international and Portuguese musicians to make this event a success. July has always been the chosen month for this event, due to its mild weather. However the venue has changed from its original home, Quinta Magnolia, to the amphitheatrelike St. Catarina Park. This venue was chosen because of an increase in visitors and the sloping site makes this a superb venue. In addition to the stage, you have splendid views over Funchal in the background, making it a unique experience! The Funchal Jazz Festival aims not only to appeal to jazz lovers but also to attract new audiences, especially younger ones. Parallel activities to enhance the educational role of the event are organised every year, offering workshops, master classes and other activities. 38 | Summer 2012 | www.madeira-life.net |
During the three day festival, visitors can take the night further by joining the after-hours jam sessions at the 360º Panorâmico Bar at The Vine Hote. In addition, there is also a Disco Fair with an extensive variety of jazz, blues and world records available for sale. This year, St. Catarina Park was home to the 13th Funchal Jazz Festival, with musicians including the Grammy and Emmy award winning musician, from the Dominican
Pictures courtesy of Miguel Moniz
The Funchal Jazz Festival | FEATURE
Republic, Michel Camilo “Mano-a-Mano” Trio; the Spanish Colina Miralta Sambeat CMS Trio with Chichuelo, the Parisian Jean Luc Ponty & his band and on the last day a Portuguese act, Manuel Beleza Jazz Terceto with the final act, probably the most waited for, being Detroit born and Grammy award-winning, Kenny Garrett, who brought the audience to their feet through his classic jazz with a touch of blues. The festival attracted over six thousand visitors over the three day event. The President of the Funchal Chamber said
‘Funchal Jazz is a successful initiative, well organised by the Chamber of Funchal’. This event’s objective has highlighted once more ‘the image of Madeira beyond-borders, as a tourist destination’. Some clues were given to what might happen next year – the Chamber professed that it was their intention to bring to Funchal names like Jamie Cullum and Dave Holland, and stated ‘this event has built its reputation with important international musicians’, a tradition we plan to keep’.
GOLF | FEATURED GOLF COURSE - SANTO DA SERRA
Challenging golf in stunning scenery S
et some 700 metres up in the rugged volcanic hills overlooking the glorious Machico Bay, where Portuguese navigators first landed in 1419, the Santo da Serra Golf Club is acknowledged as one of the most stunningly scenic courses on the European Tour calendar. Golf was first played here in the 1920s and although a 9 hole course was formally opened in 1937, the current 27 holes were designed by Robert Trent Jones. The Championship course, where the Madeira Islands Open has been played for many of the last 20 years, is comprised of the Machico and Desertas nines, and opened in 1991. The 300 metres difference between its highest and lowest points gives an idea of the terrain of this course – the holidaying golfer may be pleased to learn that the Serras nine, which opened in 1998, is a more gentle attraction with lakes, mountain views and a much flatter terrain! All 3 nines have a broad selection of tees to cope with all golfing abilities, and the club was recently
40 | Summer 2012 | www.madeira-life.net |
By Stuart Masson rated 12th in Portugal and listed in the “Rolex World’s Top 1000 Golf courses”. The morning mist which sometimes bathes Madeira ensures that the penneagle, poa and rye grasses on the generally broad and contoured fairways are in excellent condition throughout the year, and the smooth sloping penncross greens generally roll well but can be pretty quick and a challenge to read. Having cleared the mists, the wind together with the altitude and stunning surrounding seascape make judging distance on approach shots problematic. Since 2008 some of the wooded areas have been cleared and although just in the corner of your vision many of the pine , mimosa and eucalyptus trees are set back from the fairway and are more of a psychological than physical danger. Like much of Madeira, the variety of the plant life is expansive and with the many exotic flowering shrubs, streams and lakes you can easily imagine yourself in a botanical garden.
FEATURED GOLF COURSE - SANTO DA SERRA | GOLF
| www.madeira-life.net | Summer 2012 | 41
GOLF | FEATURED GOLF COURSE - SANTO DA SERRA
The third and fourth holes of the Machico nine are the signature holes of the championship course. The drive at the par 5 third, 521yards from the championship tee, is along a ravine while the second presents a choice - play safe along a similar line or attempt to go for the green in two across the ravine. The tee shot on the fourth, a par 3 of 190 yards from the championship tee, requires considerable control to carry the ravine and a bunker guarding the front left of the green, and stay short of the back bunker or, even worse, a rapid descent down the mountainside if long. 42 | Summer 2012 | www.madeira-life.net |
If you feel these tough holes may require a little loosening-up, the practice ground may be the perfect solution. Over 300 metres long, it should cope with most big hitters and has a variety of driving bays, some of which are covered. There are two putting-greens, a chipping green, a practice bunker, and if you really want to improve your game you can enrol in the Peter Mitchell academy and benefit from the experience of a past winner of the Madeira Islands Open! The friendly pro-shop offers the latest in golf fashion, modern golf equipment, rental clubs, trolleys and buggies.
The comfortable clubhouse, opened in 2000 and extended at a cost of some ÂŁ1million, with its panoramic restaurant, lounge, bar and terrace with stunning sea views, provides the perfect location at which hopefully fond memories of an enjoyable round and a spectacular golf course can be enjoyed. In May 2012 The Madeira Island Open returned to Santo da Serra, after a three year spell at the Porto Santo course, and was the first European Tour event since 1992 to be won by a Portuguese player - 29 year old Ricardo Santos won by 4 shots largely due to a 9 under par final round of 63!
Restaurant Armazen do Sal | REVIEW
A taste sensation Peter Callaghan experiences the gastronomic delights of Madeira
R
estaurateur Carlos Caires’ welcome is a most genial one as he is proud of his restaurant and has every reason to be so.
Although slightly difficult to find, it is very well hidden in a side street. On entering the spacious building you are struck by the historic wooden roof and the delightful granite floor. Original Madeirian oil paintings adorn the walls, many of which are for sale. The menu is varied and of excellent quality. Since Carlos opened his restaurant in 2007 it has grown in popularity. My main cristicism of the evening were that the loos could have been much more discreet, I was put off by the witnessing the hand washing routine, simple subtle screening would be alleviate this.
This restaurant has made a fine name for itself, which I think is quite justified although I would have liked to have heard a different variety of music than the looped tape that repeated itself a lot. I liked the variety of the menu and the presentation of the dishes was very good with efficient service. The wide choice of dishes in their €35.00 menu (including wine) represented excellent value. If I were to give Armazen do Sal 4 stars, they would achieve 5 should Carlos take notice of my two small criticisms. Reservations are not only advisable, they are essential. Tel: (+351) 291241285 www.armazemdosal.com
Restaurant Armazém do Sal Traditional Portuguese dining with flavours of haute cuisine set within an inviting restaurant atmosphere.
Fine Dining | Live Music | Unforgettable Experience
Rua da Alfândega, 135, 9000- 059 Funchal Tel: (+351) 291241285 | www.armazemdosal.com
Madeira Life & Travel Exclusive Readers Offers The Gardens of Madeira by Gerald Luckhurst Published by Frances Lincoln Ltd Readers of Portugal Life & Travel (and Madeira Life & Travel) can purchase this beautiful hard back book for:
ONLY £24, a saving 20% with free UK postage and packing. RRP: £30.00 plus postage & packaging To purchase this fantastic book, please contact: Frances Lincoln on 01235 827702 Quoting ref: 46GMML
A fantastic book with stunning images of the beautiful gardens of Madeira, a must buy! Wines of Madeira by Trevor Elliott Readers of Portugal Life & Travel (and Madeira Life & Travel) can purchase this fascinating book at a special price of:
ONLY £12.50 (including postage and packing) RRP: £13.99 plus postage & packaging To purchase this book, please send a cheque, made payable to Trevor Elliott to: 17 Beechcroft Road, Gosport PO12 2EP.
Trevor Elliott 44 | Summer 2012 | www.madeira-life.net |
TRAVEL & TOURISM | LATEST NEWS
TRAVEL & TOURISM NEWS MADEIRA’S HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY NOMINATED FOR THE “OSCARS” OF THE EUROPEAN TOURISM The Madeira Autonomous Region received once again a nomination in nine categories for the World Travel Awards (WTA), aiming to select the best European accommodation and hotels in each country or region. The nominees to the WTA are:
Resort All-Inclusive: Pestana Porto Santo Beach Resort & Spa Boutique Resort: Choupana Hills Resort & Spa Design Hotel: The Vine Hotel Island Resort: Choupana Hills Resort & Spa and Reid’s Palace Hotel Luxury Hotel: Pestana Carlton Madeira Hotel Green Hotel: Choupana Hills Resort & Spa Boutique Hotel: Choupana Hills Resort & Spa and Quinta da Bela Vista Hotel The online voting for the European Continent runs until September 14th. All citizens can participate in this initiative by voting at: www.worldtravelawards.com/vote The Awards Ceremony will be held in Delhi, India, on the 12th of December, 2012.
NEW STREET ART PROJECT - “ART OF OPEN DOORS”
Funchal Old Quarter hosts a cultural Urban Art project designed by José María Montero Zyberchema, in partnership with several organisations including João Carlos
Abreu, Funchal City Hall, “Navega Bem” and “Acontece Madeira”. This project under the motto “Art of Open Doors” was undertaken in order to captivate the interest and revitalize one of the most emblematic areas of downtown Funchal, turning it into a cultural centre, based on an open air art gallery concept through the restoration of doors from abandoned houses and shops. Another of its purposes is to raise awareness amongst locals and foreigners of issues regarding art and culture, through the use of a number of different art form styles such as painting, sculpture, photography, video art and music.
MADEIRA WINE AWARDS
Madeira Wine collected an astonishing 62 medals at the IWC (International Wine Challenge), IWSC (International Wine & Spirit Competition) and DWWA (Decanter World Wine Awards). The Madeira Wine Company won 38 awards, from Bronze to Gold and a few recommendations, while Barbeito’s Wine collected 5 awards most of which were Gold medals. Henriques & Henriques, Vinhos S.A. collected 10 awards and H. M. Borges, Sucrs, Lda collected a Gold medal award.
COSMOS HOLIDAYS LAUNCHES YEAR ROUND MADEIRA PROGRAMME
Cosmos Holidays has launched a year round Madeira programme featuring Monarch’s new scheduled service to the island with departures from both London Gatwick and Birmingham throughout the winter and summer seasons. Packages for winter 12/13 (15 October-30 April) are on sale now with
summer ’13 due on sale by the end of July. Flight only options through flight only brand Avro Flights are on sale now for both winter ‘12/’13 and summer ’13. 3 to 5 star hotel accommodation is available with a choice of room only to all inclusive. Customers can choose from three departures a week from Gatwick (Monday, Wednesday, Friday) or two departures a week from Birmingham (Monday and Friday). Madeira will be also featured in Cosmos’ All Inclusive brochure, the Summer ‘13 Holidays brochure and Winter Holidays ‘13/14.
THOMSON AIRWAYS INAUGURAL FLIGHT FROM MANCHESTER TO PORTO SANTO
Thomson Airways inaugural flight was on the 7th May, from Manchester to Porto Santo. Madeira airports welcomed 131 passengers offering them a local souvenir. Thomson Airways already flies from Manchester to Porto Santo over the summer and now Manchester with a weekly flight in a Boeing 737-800.
EIGHT PORTO BAY HOTELS RECOGNIZED BY TRIPADVISOR
Eight out of ten Porto Bay hotels were recognized with the “Certificate of Excellence” by TripAdvisor.
The award is based on comments and voting from travellers. In Madeira, the hotels recognized were the five-star The Cliff Bay; the Eden Mar Hotel; the Porto Mare Hotel and the Porto Santa Maria Hotel. It should be noted that the four hotels in Madeira that were honoured are among the Top 10 list of hotels on the island on TripAdvisor. | www.madeira-life.net | Summer 2012 | 45
LATEST NEWS | TRAVEL & TOURISM
FESTIVALS CALENDAR 27th to 29th July - Madeira Wine Rally This competition is integrated in the European Rally Championship and has great importance because of its long history and the adrenaline rush it generates.
27th July to 5th August – 28th Gastronomic Fair | Machico The city of Machico hosts this event with the purpose of promoting the rich and varied regional gastronomy. Plenty of entertainment, live music, all in a lovely seaside setting.
26th August to 2nd September - The Madeira Wine Festival A celebration of the year when grapes are being collected all over the island taking place in Estreito de Câmara de Lobos. However, there are also activities and entertainments in Funchal
13th to 15th September - Columbus Festival | Porto Santo Island A three-day festival dedicated to Christopher Columbus. It’s celebrated with music, shows, exhibitions and a parade based on his life in Madeira and the ‘Portuguese Discoveries’.
30th September to 7th October - Madeira Nature Festival For a week, Madeira promotes the 2nd edition of Nature Festival. On land, on air or on sea, everybody can experience many activities, designed for all age groups.
1st November - The Chestnut Festival | Curral das Freiras Every year hundreds of visitors go to Curral das Freiras to take part in this unique festivity; an opportunity to taste local delicacies made with chestnuts, such as chestnut soup and liqueur.
10th to 17th November - Funchal International Film Festival The main objective of the FICF is the dissemination of quality cinematography unknown to the public of Madeira.
November, 7th – 14th - 14th International Bridge Open in Madeira The Bridge Open this year is at Hotel CS Madeira Atlantic Resort & Sea SPA, Funchal, with a total prize money of €19.000 and 120 pairs from 18 countries playing over a seven day period.
From the 8th of December to the 6th of January of 2013 Christmas and New Year Celebrations The arrival of the decorative lights in the streets of the city centre of Funchal, during the month of December, marks the beginning of the Christmas and New Year festivities culminating with the famous fireworks display, officially recognized by the Guinness World Records in 2006, as the greatest display of fireworks in the world. 46 | Summer 2012 | www.madeira-life.net |
CASA VELHA DO PALHEIRO EARNS 2012 TRIP ADVISOR AWARD
Casa Velha do Palheiro set within the Palheiro Estate is delighted to announce that their 5 star country house hotel and a member of Relais & Chateaux, has received a Trip Advisor® Certificate of Excellence award. The accolade, which honours hospitality excellence, is given only to establishments that consistently achieve outstanding traveller reviews on TripAdvisor, and is extended to qualifying businesses worldwide.
TRANSAVIA PROMOTES NEW FLIGHT CONNECTIONS TO MADEIRA
The French low cost airline Transavia, a group member of Air France KLM, will launch a new operation to this region, aiming to reinforce flight connections to and from Madeira throughout this summer season. The company is making available 40 additional flights between the cities of Funchal, Porto and Paris, from June to early September. This campaign intends to respond to the growing demand for Madeira, making available more scheduled and charter flights, with competitive fares.
UNTIL SEPTEMBER 7th, VOTE ON THE ‘7 WONDERS’
The Autonomous Region of Madeira is part of the list of twenty one finalists for the 7 Wonders for Portuguese beaches, in the “dune beaches” category, with Porto Santo golden sand beach. 21 guests representatives of various scientific areas and notable public figures - carried out this first selection, choosing the most representative beaches of each region. The choice of the seven winners of this award will be made by public vote through this project’s internet site, through phone and SMS, and will run until September 7th. For more information, see the link: www.7maravilhas.sapo.pt/#/votar
visitmadeira.pt
Porto Santo. The Golden Island. MADEIRA ALL YEAR ROUND