The Whale & The Rose - April/May 2016

whale the

THE NEW GIRLS’ CLUB

&THE ROSE

A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6 • T H E W H A L E A N D T H E R O S E . C O M

These female perfumers rock our world!

EXCLUSIVE!

Sarah says...

Q&A with celebrity designer Sarah Richardson

ALLERGIC?

We’ve got expert tips on how to wear perfume when you’re scent-sensitive

SUBSCRIBE,

it’s free!

wedding day

perfumes

LET YOUR FRAGRANCE INSPIRE YOUR BIG DAY STYLE CHOICES

EDITOR’S LET TER

Fragrance

feminism

SPRING CLEAN Oud, vetiver and flowers: This spritz is as calm and cool as a spring walk in the woods.

Clean Reserve Terra Woods EDP, $125 (100 ml), sephora.ca

FLOWERS FOR MOI Peonies, roses, lilies: Whatever blooms, Mother’s Day flowers are awesome!

LILY OF THE VALLEY LOVE Marc Jacobs does this tiny flower justice alongside dewy fruit, musks and woods.

Marc Jacobs Daisy Blush Edition EDT, $90 (50 ml), at The Bay, Sephora, Shoppers Drug Mart, Jean Coutu 2

whale&THE ROSE the

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E .CO M

that perfumery was such an old boys’ club? I still remember chatting with Guerlain perfumer Sylvaine Delacourte and her recounting a jab made long ago by a male colleague. I’m paraphrasing, but a certain man commented: “What would a woman know about perfume?”

Indeed. On that note, and with all the recent talk of feminism—thank you Prime Minister Trudeau for joining that club— we’re saluting women perfumers who rock our fragrance world.

So thank you Delacourte for the art that you continue to create. And thank you Christine Nagel and Daniela Andrier and so many others we didn’t have room to include in our The New Girls’ Club story.

This issue is for you, and all of the other perfume-creating, perfume-selling, perfume-writing and perfume-wearing women out there who just don’t feel dressed without a spray of their fragrance.

With that spritz, you become more you, you believe you can take on the world and be anyone and anything you want to be.

Spritz on!

Deborah DEBORAH FULSANG, EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

CONNECT WITH ME!

(COVER) ANDREA CAPPELLI/GETTY IMAGES; (FULSANG) DAN LIM

W

ho would have thought

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Contents APRIL /MAY 2016

2 EDITOR’S LETTER 4 NEWS

In the air: New fragrances to win mom’s love.

6 FRAGRANCE BUYING GUIDE

Tea time focus: The rich, aromatic and ancient beverage inspires.

8 MOTHER’S DAY

Perfume gifts guaranteed to please.

13 BEAUTY

Fabulously fragrant and functional face masks.

15 CONTEST

Grab your chance to win a bottle of Nina Pop!

16 WELLNESS

Allergic to perfume but love it? Here, expert tips for the scent-sensitive.

19 STYLE

Define your Wedding Day style with perfume—and accessories.

24 MEN OF SCENT (BRIDE AND CLAY MASK) ADOBE STOCK

Provocative, sexy florals for him.

25 THE NEW GIRLS’ CLUB

15

19 Win it!

Spotlighting leading women perfumers and their A-list creations.

28 INTERVIEW

Q&A with inspirational interior designer Sarah Richardson.

30 ASK ROSE

Fragrance tips and answers to your FAQs.

13

NEWS

Air

In the

Want more news?

CLICK HERE TO STAY IN-THE-KNOW!

DO YOUR MOTHER’S DAY SHOPPING NOW! THESE NEW SCENTS WILL PLEASE ALL, FROM THE SWEET TOOTH TO THE GLAMOUR QUEEN AND EVERY MOM IN-BETWEEN

BY DEB OR AH FUL SANG

POWDER FRESH

The powder trend is taking perfumery by storm. One of the best examples, from Narciso Rodriguez, oozes chic, from its makeup-powder-tinted bottle to its refined combo of musk, flowers (jasmine, rose) and woods (vetiver, black and white cedar).

Narciso Rodriguez Poudrée EDP, $110 (50 ml), The Bay, Holt Renfrew, Sephora, Murale, Shoppers Drug Mart

Nina turns ten and it’s celebrating with polka dots.

How charming! How perfect!

After all, perfumer Olivier Cresp’s sweet mix of flowers, citrus, musk and toffee apple is nothing if not playful. French artist Coco reimagines the appleshaped, Nina Ricci flask in a rainbow of candy colours both festive and feminine.

4

whale&THE ROSE the

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E .CO M

CLICK HERE TO ENTER FOR A CHANCE TO Nina Pop EDT, $86 (50 ml), ninaricci.com

(POWDER) ADOBE STOCK

Happy 10 th Birthday Nina

Tap the feminine

spirit of primping

From the dressing table

Maison Margiela distills the glamour of the getting-readyfor-a-night-out beauty ritual in Lipstick On. The latest in the Replica fragrance series melds scents of lipstick and face powder with citrus, iris and galbanum, vanilla bourbon and tonka bean. The result: sultry and ready for a closeup.

Lipstick On (Chicago, 1952), $125 (50 ml), sephora.ca

HERMES’ HOT WATERS For lovers of cologne, Hermès is a given.

So be prepared to go shopping. Two new scents debut this month: Eau de Néroli Doré and Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate. For the former, perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena immerses us into the golden Mediterranean of his youth; for the latter, perfumer Christine Nagel celebrates the duality of rhubarb—green and red, crisp and rich, delicate yet brazen.

Both available in spray, $149 (100 ml) each; and Le Bain Hermès formulas (shampoo, balm, shower gel and soap), from $42, hermes.ca T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E . C O M

whale&THE ROSE the

5

FRAGRANCE BUYING GUIDE

black

tea

RICH AND COMPLEX, THIS ANCIENT INGREDIENT BELONGS IN YOUR PERFUME REGIME AND NOT JUST YOUR AFTERNOON CAFFEINE BREAK

BY ALE X ANDR A D ONALDSON

Want more perfumes?

CLICK YOUR GO-TO FRAGR ANCE NOTES BELOW:

FR AGR ANCE BUYING GUIDE

(TEA LEAVES) ADOBE STOCK; OPPOSITE: (TEA) ADOBE STOCK; (NOTES) ISTOCK

TEA TIME SWEET SMOKE Chinese tea and vanilla deliver sweetness; amber, labdanum and guaiac wood lend sensuality.

FRESH BREW Chai tea and white osmanthus blooms define this crisp tea scent.

Derek Lam 10 Crosby Blackout EDP, $120 (50 ml), sephora.ca

Jo Malone London Rare Teas Collection Midnight Black Tea, $440 (175 ml), holtrenfrew.com Hugo Boss Hugo Woman EDP, $90 (75 ml), at Hugo Boss Boutiques and Shoppers Drug Mart

FRUIT Y TEA Boysenberry, plum and jasmine meet amber and mandarin in Hugo Boss’ category-defying eau.

WOODY NOTES Tea mixes with fig, citrus, bay leaves, vetiver and musk for an outdoorsy, tobacco-ish spritz.

AROMATIC MIX Spearmint, cardamom, iris, cumin and papyrus mingle with green and black tea: invigorating!

Le Labo Thé Noir 29 EDP, $265 (100 ml), 6bygeebeauty.com

Atelier Cologne Philtre Ceylan Perfume, $325 (200 ml), ateliercologne.com, sephora.ca

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E . C O M

whale&THE ROSE the

7

BEST MOTHER’S DAY PERFUMES

Love you, Mom AFTER YEARS OF BRAND LOYALTY, DOES YOUR MOTHER NEED A FRAGRANCE FLING?

BY DEB OR AH FUL SANG

If she loves Prada Infusion d’Iris…

She’ ll love the new Iris Cedre It packs the elegance of the original from 2007 but in a cologne-like collaboration with masculine cedar. Timeless!

As a matter of fact, mom might also like the whole fragrant six-pack, if you really feel like treating her!

8

whale&THE ROSE the

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E .CO M

Les Infusions de Prada EDP, $175 (100 ml) each, at Hudson’s Bay Prada Shops in Shops

If she loves

Chanel No.5…

Chanel Boy Les Exclusifs EDP, $320 (200 ml), chanel.com

She’ ll love the new Chanel

Boy

If your mom is drawn to the classic Chanel perfume because of its boldness, confidence and inherent femininity, we think she’ll swoon over this. It’s inspired by a man’s scent but is recrafted with a woman’s sensibilities in mind. The drawback: Boy doesn’t arrive in North America ’til June, so give mom flowers next month and an IOU.

If she loves Armani

Armani Air di Gioia or Sun di Gioia EDP, $95 (50 ml) each, at Hudson’s Bay, Saks, Holt Renfrew, Nordstrom, Shoppers Drug Mart

Acqua di Gioia…

She’ ll love the new

Sun & Air di Gioias

These scents echo the original Gioia but tweak it in fresh ways. For Air, there’s a punched-up ozonic note as well as neroli and musk; for Sun di Gioia, rich florals and glorious ylang-ylang, vanilla, iris and frangipani are the focus. GIve mom flowers, a kiss and a promise for now as this launches in June. Or gift her the Eau Fraiche version!

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E . C O M

whale&THE ROSE the

9

BEST MOTHER’S DAY PERFUMES

If she loves Guerlain Shalimar...

Guerlain Allegoria Pera Granita EDP, $75 (50 ml), guerlain.com

She’ ll love the new

Allegoria Pera Granita

Shalimar is rich and nuanced and wonderful. And while this new Allegoria scent is more juicy and fresh, it’s many-layered and delicious too. The Guerlain fan will most definitely get it. Inspired by a summer dessert, this spritz features bright green pear, a velvety apricot essence from brilliant osmanthus flowers, moss, cedar and warm musk.

If she loves

Thierry Mugler Angel Muse EDP, $102 (50 ml), mugler.com

She’ ll love the new Angel Muse

The original Angel blockbuster that broke the mould in 1992 is revamped this spring as a sweet gourmand fragrance like the original, but this time it’s laced with a bright vetiver element. The result, says its mixmasters, is “a highly addictive hazelnut cream and vetiver duo.” We think your Mugler-loving mom will be smitten.

10

whale&THE ROSE the

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E .CO M

FLOWERS: ADOBE STOCK; OPPOSITE: (MUSHROOM) ADRIAN ARMSTRONG

Mugler Angel...

stay in

touch!

DON’T MISS A SINGLE ISSUE OF OUR DIGITAL MAGAZINE

Subscribe now.

It’s free!

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E . C O M

whale&THE ROSE the

11

whale the

OUR PASSION IS FRAGRANCE, FROM THE LATEST TO THE GREATEST…

&THE ROSE .com Throwback trend POWDER MAKES A CHICHI COMEBACK

Netflix & chill ?

OUR FAVOURITE TV CHARACTERS CAPTURED IN SCENT

Runwayinspired MEN’S FASHION AND FRAGRANCES TO MATCH

Video

FRAGRANCE FILMS OF THE DEREK LAM 10 CROSBY COLLECTION

connect with us!

BE AUT Y

Want more news?

(FACE AND SMEAR) ADOBE STOCK

CLICK HERE TO STAY IN-THE-KNOW!

SCENT-SATIONAL

SKINCARE

JUMPSTART YOUR SPRING CLEANING WITH HIGHPERFORMING MASKS THAT WIN POINTS FOR FUNCTION AND FRAGRANCE BOTH. BEAUTY IS, AFTER ALL, A MULTISENSORY EXPERIENCE

BY A SHLE Y KOWALEWSKI

SNAIL CHIC Snail mucus extract—yes, that’s right—works to renew skin’s elasticity and vitality, while a floralgourmand scent delivers the spa factor. How luxe!

The Face Shop Hwansaenggo Escargot Golden Firming Gel Mask, $8 each, at The Face Shop

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E . C O M

whale&THE ROSE the

13

BE AUT Y

CLEAN AND CLEAR Kaolin clay and charcoal draw out impurities; a spicy-fresh scent leaves you feeling as invigorated as your skin looks.

Garnier SkinActive Clean+ Pore Purifying Clay Cleanser + Mask, $11, garnier.com, at drugstores nationwide

JUICY JOLT Kickstart your day with this polishing mask. It gently buffs skin while helping lock in moisture, plus it smells like a sweet orange Creamsicle!

SLEEPING BEAUT Y This quick-drying overnight mask aims to repair dull, tired-looking skin while a subtle lavender scent helps you relax and unwind while you catch much-needed zees.

Shiseido Ibuki Beauty Sleeping Mask, $48 (80 ml), shiseido.com, at The Bay 14

whale&THE ROSE the

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E .CO M

GREEN GODDESS Vitamin-rich superfood kale, watercress, witch hazel and clay soften and nourish skin, while a green and earthy scent leaves you feeling fully detoxified.

Nip+Fab Kale Fix Clay Mask, $16, nipandfab.com, at Shoppers Drug Mart

(CLAY MASK) ADOBE STOCK

Ole Henriksen Truth Sugar Glow Polishing Mask, $55, sephora.ca

Contest!

YOU COULD WIN A BOTTLE OF NINA POP! IT’S EASY!

Subscribe to The Whale & The Rose Magazine and tweet us about your favourite summer scent for a chance to win.

The best tweet wins and will be published in our next digital issue!

CLICK HERE TO ENTER FOR A CHANCE TO

Remember to tag us @THEWHALETHEROSE WHAT YOU’RE COMPETING FOR: A 50-ml bottle of Nina Pop Eau de Toilette ($86), the new 10th anniversary scent in the Nina perfume franchise. This is a fruityfloral fragrance with a sweet toffee note, fading to a soft wood-and-musk base.

Young, sensual and flirty.

We know

you’ ll love it! *FOR TERMS AND CONDITIONS, VISIT THEWHALEANDTHEROSE.COM/CONTEST-RULES

WELLNESS

Perfume

ALLERGIC?

DOES PERFUME TRIGGER A SNEEZING FIT? HEADACHE? RASH? DON’T GIVE UP. WE’VE GOT TIPS ON HOW TO WEAR FRAGRANCE FOR THE SCENT-SENSITIVE

tip: START SMALL

Experiment with scented soap, says scent expert Marian Bendeth. “The fragrance won’t last longer than 15 minutes. If you can tolerate it, seal it in with a scented lotion, which is lighter than applying a fragrance.”

BY MARILISA R ACCO

M

16

whale&THE ROSE the

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E .CO M

Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gioia Eau Fraiche, $96 (100 ml), thebay.com

tip: GO

FOR EAU

Play with lighter formulas to see what can be tolerated.

FYI: Perfume typically has 23-30% oil, EDP: 18-22%; EDT: 13-17%; EDC: 2-5%; Eau Fraiche: 1-3%.

(SOAP AND OIL) ADOBE STOCK

any women regard fragrance as integral to their outfit as a necklace or the perfect pair of heels. In fact, some eschew everything but—Marilyn Monroe famously told a room of reporters that the only thing she wore to bed was Chanel No. 5.

For others, scent seems to bring with it a slew of allergic reactions including headaches, dizziness, nausea, coughing fits, and even confusion and anxiety.

“When I wear perfume, I usually break out in hives, and experience redness and itchiness,” says Karen Eull, a Toronto-based editor. “Some scents on me or on others can trigger a headache, especially on elevators or crowded subways during rush hour. When my asthma was

tip: TRY SINGLE NOTES

Demeter Jasmine and Salt Air, $20, demeter fragrance.com

These scents are based on one particular perfume note, so by nature contain fewer ingredients. “These are less likely to cause reactions than a mix of multiple scents,” says Tiffany Kirkham, coowner and perfumer of InklingScents.com.

tip: PATCH TEST IT

Swab a perfume just above your wrist; wait 1-2 hours and watch for redness, itchiness, a burning sensation or sneezing.

tip: APPLY AN

ESSENTIAL OIL

They’re less likely to be aerosolized, so their application can be controlled, says Dr. Jaggi Rao. Dilute with a carrier oil—grape seed, sweet almond, olive oil—or an unscented lotion to avoid reaction.

severe, it could also trigger wheezing.”

Fragrance sensitivities are nothing new, but the rising number of women who buy unscented beauty products (roughly 37 percent in Canada) and the growing demand for fragrance-free workplaces— in 2010, Statistics Canada estimated that 2.4 percent of the workforce have physical sensitivities to fragrance— indicates that scent sensitivity is no longer an isolated issue.

And while it’s difficult to pinpoint exactly what’s making it trend, many experts point to the explosion of scent in our dayto-day lives, from personal care items to household cleaners and air sprays, as the culprit.

“It is estimated that there are over 2,600 chemicals that can be used in fragranced products, including toluene, benzene and T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E . C O M

whale&THE ROSE the

17

WELLNESS

tip: MIST YOUR MANE Spritz a scented hair mist or oil on your locks, or certain dry shampoos. They’re subtle fragrance options worth trying.

18

whale&THE ROSE the

CLICK HERE FOR INSTAGRAM INSPIRATION.

ByKilian Moonlight cuff, bykilian.com

tip: ACCESSORIZE WITH SCENT

If you only react to fragrance when it’s applied directly to your skin, why not try wearing a piece of jewellery such as a bracelet or pendant that holds perfumed balm? The result: It’s your space, not you, technically, that is scented.

Atkinsons of London Lavender on the Rocks EDP, $240, at Holt Renfrew

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E .CO M

tip: CHOOSE QUALITY

“I don’t know why I can wear Tom Ford’s Tobacco Vanille, but I’ll pay a little more for food made from quality ingredients, so the same logic applies to what I put on my skin,” says editor Karen Eull.

OPPOSITE: (BRIDE) ADOBE STOCK

acetone,” says Dr. Jaggi Rao, clinical professor of medicine at the University of Alberta and medical director of Rao Dermatology in Edmonton.

“Even some natural plant extracts can cause allergic reactions in some people.”

Notes such as citrus, pineapple, Turkish rose, apple blossom, grass and hay are known to trigger allergic reactions. But the ubiquity of these notes shouldn’t preclude you from finding a fragrance that will work, says global fragrance expert Marian Bendeth of Sixth Scents in Toronto.

“You might be sensitive to one particular note and not fragrance as a whole,” she says. “Unless you suffer from multiple chemical sensitivity [a chronic medical condition of extreme sensitivity to low-level concentrations of certain chemicals including scents], you should be able to find a fragrance that won’t trigger an allergy.”

Need a fragrance boost?

WEDDING DAY PERFUMES

Get more wedding day perfume tips from pros and brides both: CLICK HERE!

notes

nuptial

TAKE YOUR WEDDING DAY FASHION CUES FROM YOUR PERFUME—WELL OKAY, FROM YOUR DRESS TOO—AND YOUR ACCESSORIES WILL BE AS CHIC AS YOUR BIG DAY SCENT, GUARANTEED!

BY DEB OR AH FUL SANG

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E . C O M

whale&THE ROSE the

19

WEDDING DAY PERFUMES Nina Helyn beaded clutch, $99, at Hudson’s Bay, thebay.com

Valentino Donna EDP, $95 (50 ml), at Nordstrom

in love!

Gucci mules, $1,020, at Holt Renfrew

old Vintage rose teardrop earrings, $145, Kleinfeld at Hudson’s Bay

something

VALENTINO DONNA, IN ALL ITS VINTAGE-INSPIRED GLORY, STEERS YOU IN A COUTURE DIRECTION. BRIGHT CITRUS MEETS ROSE, THEN SIMMERS WITH IRIS, RICH LEATHER AND VANILLA

d

new Jennifer Behr Voilette veil, $410, at White Toronto, whitetoronto.com

something

TOM FORD SOLEIL BLANC CELEBRATES GLAMOUR. BIG WHITE FLOWERS WILL TAKE YOU FROM THE BIG DAY TO HONEYMOONING ON THE RIVIERA THANKS TO AN ADDED DOSE OF SUNSHINE AND SEX APPEAL

Tom Ford Soleil Blanc EDP, $220 (50 ml), at Holt Renfrew

Manolo Blahnik T-strap shoes, $925, at Holt Renfrew

in love!

Yves Saint Laurent purse, $1,560, at Holt Renfrew T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E . C O M

whale&THE ROSE the

21

WEDDING DAY PERFUMES

something

borrowed FERRAGAMO SIGNORINA MISTERIOSA WINKS AT TRADITION BUT REDEFINES IT WITH A GOURMAND ESSENCE. ITS HEART IS A TUBEROSE-AND-ORANGEBLOSSOM BLEND, ITS TRAIL IS ALL SWEET, BLACK-VANILLA MOUSSE

Reiss embellished envelope clutch, $185, at Hudson’s Bay, thebay.com

Tiffany rose-gold cocktail watch with pavé dial, $30,700, at Tiffany & Co., tiffany.ca

in love!

Salvatore Ferragamo Signorina Misteriosa EDP, $105 (50 ml), at Hudson’s Bay, Holt Renfrew, Ogilvy, Murale and Sephora

Gianvito Rossi pumps, $835, at Holt Renfrew 22

whale&THE ROSE the

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E .CO M

Aerin Lauder Mediterranean Honeysuckle EDP, $125 (50 ml), at Holt Renfrew, Ogilvy, Sephora, Nordstrom, and esteelauder.ca

Jenny Packham hair pins, $240 (set of 3), at White Toronto, whitetoronto.com

in love!

Badgley Mischka Cara II embellished metallic leather sandals, $310, Hudson’s Bay, thebay.ca

blue Stella McCartney fringed bag, $1,800, at Holt Renfrew

something

AERIN L AUDER MEDITERRANEAN HONEYSUCKLE EMBODIES A BEAUTIFUL BOHO BRIDE WITH ITS SHEER CHARACTER OF SPARKLING CITRUS, ETHEREAL BLOOMS AND SULTRY SKIN-LIKE MUSKS

MEN OF SCENT Carlos Huber of Arquiste Below left: Men in blacktie, by J.C. Leyendecker.

A FLOWER ON THE LAPEL?

MAIS OUI! BUT DON’T STOP THERE. MEN’S FLORAL FRAGRANCES ARE HIP ONCE MORE

BY D OUG WALL ACE

M

en have been wearing florals practically since ancient Egypt. Roman party hosts would spritz dinner guests with rosewater and Napoleon placed bottles of orange blossom water in his boots before heading into battle.

That’s manly. Weird, but manly.

“A floral fragrance is disruptive in a man. It makes women notice them,” says Carlos Huber of Arquiste fragrances. His Boutonnière No. 7 harkens back to the Belle Époque, when Paris opera-goers flirted during intermission, men enticing women with gardenias pinned to their lapels.

Huber says men still look to use scent as a seduction tool, noting that today’s florals are “leathery, earthy, dirty and animalistic—closer to nature, and this makes them much more appealing to men.”

24

whale&THE ROSE the

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E .CO M

1

Jean Paul Gaultier Fleur du Male EDT, $110 (125 ml), lastcall.com

2

Byredo Rose of No Man’s Land EDP, $245 (50 ml), holtrenfrew.com

3

Arquiste Boutonnière No. 7 EDP, $213 (55 ml), arquiste.com

THE NEW GIRLS’ CLUB Sylvaine Delacourte of Guerlain

Learn more about Sylvaine: CLICK HERE FOR A FULL INTERVIEW

new girls’ club the

FRAGRANCE HAS LONG BEEN A MAN’S WORLD. FORGET THAT. WE’RE HONOURING SEVEN FEMALE PERFUMERS WHO INSPIRE US!

BY ALE X ANDR A D ONALDSON

D

espite women being the main buyers and wearers of perfume, the world of fragrance is renowned as one of the original old boys’ clubs. But times are changing, and we’re seeing more and

more leading perfume brands lauding their women creators. So we’re paying tribute. May their scents continue to perfume our modern airwaves, their art and craft continue to provoke, delight and inspire us.

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E . C O M

whale&THE ROSE the

25

THE NEW GIRLS’ CLUB

Ann Gottlieb

Calvin Klein ck2, $67 (100 ml), thebay.com

Gottlieb began her career under the iconic Estee Lauder.

You know her work: ck one, Calvin Klein Obsession, Dior J’adore and Marc Jacobs Daisy. Her latest? She collaborated with perfumer Pascal Gaurin of IFF to launch the new wasabi-meetsflowers ck2 scent.

Marc Jacobs Daisy Dream Blush, $90 (50 ml), sephora.ca

Karine Dubreuil

Dubreuil was in-house perfumer at L’Occitane En Provence for several years. Before that, she was crafting scents for Gucci, Guerlain and Lanvin. To sniff her art, check out L’Occitane’s stellar Collection de Grasse.

26

whale&THE ROSE the

Annie Buzantian

L’Occitane En Provence Néroli & Orchidée, $75 (75 ml), loccitane.com

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E .CO M

Buzantian, with fragrance creative house Firmenich since 1972, is the mind—and nose—behind Victoria’s Secret Pink, Estee Lauder Pleasures and some of your favourite Marc Jacobs perfumes—Decadence, Dot and Honey. Her latest?

Marc Jacobs Daisy Dream Blush, an airy, lush floral fragrance made green with vetiver and violet leaves.

Christine Nagel

Hermès Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate, $149 (100 ml), hermes.com

Nagal worked with companies such as Givaudan and Quest before assuming her current post at Hermès. You’ll recognize her handiwork in Jo Malone Wood Sage & Sea Salt, Giorgio Armani Si and Salvatore Ferragamo Tuscan Scent White Mimosa among so many others. She’s behind Hermes’ new delicious rhubarb-inspired cologne.

Ann Flipo

Guerlain Homme Intense, $115 (80 ml), guerlain.com; thebay.com

“Effervescent, curious, very much a hedonist,” reads Flipo’s bio at L’Artisan Parfumeur, where she has mixed many scents. Chloe Love Story, YSL Manifesto, Donna Karan Woman and a long list of others fill out her CV. Her newest creations: Jeanne Lanvin Éclat de Fleurs and Scandal, the upcoming re-issue of that brand’s 1933 scent.

Sylvaine Delacourte Lanvin Scandal, lanvin.com

Guerlain appointed Delacourte as its first female fragrance director in 2008— a first in the brand’s 188-year history.

Working with in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser, Delacourte helps shape new offerings, while also creating bespoke fragrances for top-tier devotées.

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E . C O M

whale&THE ROSE the

27

THE INTERVIEW

WE’VE LONG ADMIRED INTERIOR DESIGNER SARAH RICHARDSON’S STYLE AND HAD A HUNCH SHE’D BE OPINIONATED ABOUT PERFUME. WE WERE RIGHT

BY DEB OR AH FUL SANG

…don’t wear what everyone else is wearing

SARAH RICHARDSON: Peonies growing in my mom’s garden—still my favourite! And also, the scent that wafted out of my mom’s closet every time I opened the heavy mirrored doors. It wasn’t a specific single fragrance (though I remember that in those days she wore a lot of different Dior fragrances).

Q: First fragrance you bought yourself?

RICHARDSON: The first 28

whale&THE ROSE the

time I wore a fragrance was in Grade 3. At lunch I decided to spritz on some Miss Dior, then returned to class and was soooo embarrassed when everyone noticed and asked why I was wearing perfume (which I vehemently denied). The first fragrance I bought was Perry Ellis. Why? Because I loved his designs (we sewed from his patterns); I was obsessed with his signature,

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E .CO M

and the fragrance was fresh and distinct (and not too grown up for a teenager).

Q: What does your fragrance say about you?

RICHARDSON: Acqua di Parma Magnolia Nobile is my hands-down alltime favourite. Based on the magnolia trees that line Lake Como, it is crisp, classic, timeless and elegant, and well suited to every day. Of course I’d love to consider my sense of style to fall into the same category (who wouldn’t?) and it’s not too girly, fruity

(ALL PHOTOS) STACEY BRANDFORD

Q: What is your favourite scent of childhood?

Sarah’s fave perfumes

Q: What does your house smell like?

RICHARDSON: Royalty

by Tom Dixon and peonies, lilacs or lilies whenever possible. or musky. It appeals to me because it’s not an instantly recognizable mass-market scent and I get lots of compliments when I wear it.

Q: If you could bottle a memory what would it be?

RICHARDSON: I remember being in France with Alexander (my husband) the year we were married and walking past walls of night-blooming jasmine on a warm June evening. That single experience stands out—and our youngest daughter’s middle name is Jasmine.

Acqua di Parma Magnolia Nobile EDP, $135 (50 ml), holtrenfrew.com

Q: How do you scent your home?

RICHARDSON: I spray perfume in our room every time I make the bed and keep fresh flowers in the house whenever possible, and I like to have a scented candle or diffuser in the front hall and powder room.

Chanel Coco Noir EDP, $129 (50 ml), chanel.com

Q: What fragrance wisdom do you want to pass on to your kids?

RICHARDSON: Find the one that suits you; don’t wear what everyone else is wearing, and know the difference between enough and too much.

Van Cleef & Arpels First EDP, $98 (60 ml), thebay.com

RE ADER ADVICE

Rose ASK

Have a fragrance question?

HAVE A BURNING FRAGRANCE QUESTION? MAYBE YOU’RE LOOKING FOR SOMETHING NEW, ARE CURIOUS ABOUT A WEIRD AND WONDERFUL INGREDIENT OR SIMPLY NEED GIFT-GIVING ADVICE? JUST ASK

CLICK HERE TO ASK

BY DEB OR AH FUL SANG

Where to spritz

Find your true scent

A: Wearing scent on pulse points is still a good idea but we also advocate spraying on your torso, especially after your morning shower. The heat of your body will release the fragrance slowly, so it will rise and perfume you throughout the day.

A: Think about your favourite place to be in the whole, wide world. What are you doing?

Are you at the beach or in the city? In the forest or at a bakery? Then think about what this place smells like. Start your perfume shopping right there.

Q: Where should I wear fragrance?

Still on my wrists? — @PartyElie

DEBORAH’S TOP TIPS FOR GOING GREEN GROW AROMATICS Fresh herbs at the ready for cooking: awesome. They’ll perfume the kitchen too!

30

whale&THE ROSE the

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E .CO M

TRY A NEW COLOGNE Today’s green, aromatic scents suit every taste, even if you like spicy and rich.

HEAL YOUR BODY AND SOUL Consume your greens. In scents, they calm the soul.

In food, they’re miracle workers, too.

(ILLUSTRATION) ADOBE STOCK. OPPOSITE: (CITRUS) ADRIAN ARMSTRONG

Q: How do I select the best fragrance for me? — @MelissaFinn

whale the

&THE ROSE

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E .C O M

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E . C O M

whale&THE ROSE the

31