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OPEN HOUSE NEWS
Editor’s word
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ince late last year Tourism Australia has been targeting international visitors with a global ”Restaurant Australia” campaign, promoting Australia’s many varied food and wine experiences to the world.
Aussie chef takes Asia’s Best Restaurant title N
ahm in Bangkok has taken out the top spot at the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2014 awards, being named the S.Pellegrino Best Restaurant in Asia at an awards ceremony in Singapore last month. The restaurant, which is owned and run by Australianborn chef David Thompson (pictured, inset), also won the S.Pellegrino Best Restaurant in Thailand award. Ranked number three on the inaugural Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list last year, Nahm was also ranked number 32 on The World’s Best Restaurants list in 2013.
opening Nahm in London and in Bangkok. China led the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2014 with 16 establishments ranked on the list, followed by Japan and Singapore landing 10 and eight restaurants respectively. The 2014 list welcomes 10 new entries, including first-time representation from restaurants in Korea (Jungsik, the highest new entry, at number 20), and Taiwan (Le Moût at number 24).
Thompson established himself in Sydney with Darley Street Thai and Sailors’ Thai in The Rocks area before
For the full list of award winners, visit www.theworlds50best.com/asia.
CONTENTS
Nahm is known for its bold, authentic Thai menu that revives and reinterprets cuisine from centuries-old recipes of former Thai matriarchs.
“Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants continues to evolve and grow, as evidenced by the addition of 10 new restaurants to the list,” said Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants’ spokesperson William Drew. “These new entries highlight the creativity, variety and sophistication of Asia’s ever-changing culinary scene.”
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Cover story – Sara Lee Tray Cakes ......................................... 08
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Q&A – Jim Berardo .............................. 12
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The marketing strategy is in response to research which found that amongst people who’d visited Australia we are ranked second in the world for food and wine experiences, after France, and ahead of Italy. For visitors from China, the US, India, Indonesia, Malaysia, the UK, South Korea and France, we are the number one food and wine destination. It’s long been a rite of passage for young chefs to head overseas for a year or two work experience in the UK or Europe, but maybe we should be encouraging them to explore Australia’s regions instead. When our fresh produce, fine wines and unique culinary experiences are the envy of the world, all the inspiration they need can be found in our own backyard.
Ylla Wright Managing Editor @ohfoodservice
Bakery.
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NEWS
CEO CookOff raises $1 million T
he third annual Qantas Airways and OzHarvest CEO CookOff, held on February 17 at Sydney’s Carriageworks, has raised more than $1 million for local charities. More than 130 chief executives and business leaders including Alan Joyce (Qantas), Shemara Wikranamayake (Macquarie Bank), Michael Wachtel (Ernst & Young) and Les Schirato (Vittoria Food & Beverage) partnered with 37 of Australia’s top chefs including Neil Perry (pictured), Maggie Beer, Matt Moran, Frank Camorra and Guillaume Brahimi last month to cook and plate up a three course meal for 1000 homeless or disadvantaged guests. Since 2012 the event has raised more than $3 million for local charities with this year’s funds going to OzHarvest, Tribal Warrior and Life Changing Experiences Foundation. OzHarvest founder and chief executive Ronni Kahn said the funds raised will allow the charity to deliver at least one million additional meals to those in need, and help them provide nutrition education to communities and training to disadvantaged youth. Les Schirato, chief executive of Vittoria Food & Beverage, raised a total of $100,020, the highest amount on record for an individual for the CEO CookOff. “The cooking might be over, but there’s still work to do,” Schirato said. “I encourage more CEOs to participate and to take on the challenge and
alcohol from 10pm. The legislative measures also include temporary banning orders for troublemakers in the Sydney CBD Entertainment Precinct, and a freeze on new liquor licences and approvals for existing licences in the same area that includes Surry Hills, The Rocks and Kings Cross to Cockle Bay. The reforms exclude small bars, restaurants and accommodation providers. Restaurant & Catering Australia has come out in support of the liquor law reforms, with chief executive John Hart saying the changes ensure Sydney will continue to remain a safe inviting place to visit.
exceed my fundraising target in 2015!” Last month also saw another “boss”, Bruce Springsteen, in Australia for his High Hope tour, donate eight VIP tickets to two Adelaide concert and four VIP tickets to his Brisbane concert, to auction off to the highest bidders.
Sydney liquor law reforms kick off Liquor law reforms to target drug and alcohol-fuelled violence in Sydney’s CBD Entertainment and Kings Cross precincts came into effect late last month. Commencing on February 24, the changes include 1.30am lockouts and 3am last drinks in the Sydney CBD Entertainment and Kings Cross precincts as well as a state-wide ban on takeaway
Colin Fassnidge joins Taste Port Douglas Port Douglas Carnivale’s biggest food event, Taste of Paradise, returns for 2014 with a line-up of celebrity chefs including Colin Fassnidge from Sydney's 4Fourteen, Four in Hand and Paddington Arms. “We are very excited to be welcoming Colin Fassnidge to Port Douglas as he has quite a number of fans and is known for his honesty and passion when it comes to food,” said event organiser Reina Patrick. Taking place at the Sugar Wharf on Saturday May 24, Fassnidge will headline the all day event that showcases the region’s best produce with cooking demonstrations plus food, wine and beer tastings from many suppliers and local restaurants including Wonga Foods, Julatten Earth Foods, Clovelly Estate, Harrisons, Bucci, Nu Nu, and Seabean Tapas Bar. There will be additional appearances from celebrity chefs Massimo Mele and Ian Curley as well as local chefs Nick Holloway, Tony Sassi and Todd Malone. For more information visit www.carnivale.com.au.
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“Restaurants are the largest contributor to Sydney’s night-time economy, contributing $1.2 billion or about half the revenue generated in the Sydney local government area,” he said. “Ensuring patrons to these establishments are able to move safely within these precincts is critical to the livelihood of our night-time economy and culinary culture in Sydney.”
Conference centre Chef of the Year announced Philip Edwards, head chef of the Linden Tree Restaurant at Lindenderry at Red Hill, Victoria, has been named the Australian Conference Centre Chef of the Year by the International Association of Conference Centres. To take out the title, chefs were given only 30 minutes to create a single dish from a list of set ingredients. Edwards will represent Australia in the Global Championship, to be held at the Pacific Palms Resort in Los Angeles this month. Edwards has been in the role of head chef at the Linden Tree Restaurant, the in-house restaurant at luxury boutique hotel Lindenderry at Red Hill, for just over 12 months. His philosophy is to use fresh and local produce where possible for his contemporary European menu. Edwards uses herbs grown in his kitchen garden and wildflowers that grow around the property on a daily basis. Edwards’ career includes experience at Portsea’s iconic Two Faces, and renowned French establishments Jacques Reymond and Luxe in Melbourne. He was also sous chef at Ondine, which was awarded Victoria’s best new restaurant within a year of opening.
Sydney’s Wildfire restaurant closes Circular Quay’s Wildfire restaurant, known for its wood-fire grill, will close its doors this month after 12 years in business due to an upgrade of the Overseas Passenger Terminal by Sydney Ports Corporation.
Under the plan a reported $50 million is set to be spent on upgrading the Terminal to cater to large cruise ships that cannot fit under the Harbour Bridge. The restaurant, which still had 13 years left on its lease, had hoped that it would be able to relocate to another part of the terminal, however this has not proved possible. “We cannot replicate Wildfire,” said the restaurant’s operations director Julian Izzillo. “Where else in Sydney would you get a room with a 7.5 metre ceiling that seats 320 patrons on the harbour edge with a breathtaking view of the Opera House?” Having served more than 1.1 million customers since opening, business was still great, according to Izzillo. “We are still trading like we have just opened," he said. "Last Saturday we did 400 covers and had a queue out the front.” Wildfire will host a farewell event on March 9 with all funds going to Chris O’Brien’s Lifehouse charity. While most of the Terminal’s restaurants will remain, including award-winning Quay, it is believed that one of Wildfire's neighbouring restaurants may also be set for closure.
Jamie's Italian set to open in Brisbane Jamie Oliver will open his fifth Jamie's Italian in Australia in Brisbane in late 2014. The restaurant will be the largest of the five with 240 seats across two levels. To be located near the Edward Street end of Queen Street Mall in a former 1900s department store, the restaurant will deliver an authentic and affordable Italian menu created by Oliver and his mentor, Italian chef Gennaro Contaldo. While the finer details are still being worked out, Jamie's Italian is currently looking for Brisbanebased chefs, managers and apprentices to join the 120-strong team.
McCormick looks at food trends for 2014 McCormick has released its McCormick Flavour Forecast 2014: 125th Anniversary Edition at a lunch at Luke Mangan’s Glass restaurant in Sydney. The report, developed annually by McCormick experts around the world, highlights five top food trends and more than a dozen emerging flavours for 2014 and beyond. First launched in 2000, this 125th Anniversary Edition explores how today’s connectivity is driving faster-than-ever adoption of
Mexican flavours are one of McCormick’s Flavour Predictions for 2014.
new trends and tastes around the globe. “Our Flavour Forecast is ideal for chefs and operators looking to stay a few steps ahead of the current flavour trends,” said Ian Holmes, industrial & food service sales manager, McCormick Foods Australia. “Today’s expectation when dining out is about exceptional taste experiences, so this Anniversary Edition can be an inspiration point for foodservice professionals.” The report identified contemporary Indian, Mexican and Brazilian flavours to be amongst the key global trends at the moment, along with previously underutilised chilli varieties. “Clever compact cooking” was also identified as a key trend, “proving that big flavours can come from small spaces, versatile, multi-purpose ingredients are essential to kitchens of all sizes – from largescale establishments to independent operations, chefs are implementing creative, cross-functional ways to prepare flavourful meals”. The company also took the opportunity to launch a bespoke range of spice blends which bring the research to life: Jalapeno Sea Salt with a Hint of Lemon; Kashmiri Masala Spice Blend; Plum & Sumac with Black Tea and Lemon; Bahiano Temperano Spice Blend; and the soon to be released Apricot Chilli Lime Chamoy Spice Blend.
The ‘science of taste’ revealed Australian food and wine industry professionals are invited to apply for a scholarship to join the Le Cordon Bleu Hautes Études du Goût program in Paris from October 13-25, 2014. Dedicated to uncovering the “science of taste”, the course brings together food and wine professionals from across the globe to discuss and explore the culinary arts. Spending one week in Paris and one week in
Reims, Champagne, recipients will participate in advanced lectures and workshops run by renowned French academics, such as scientist and forefather of molecular gastronomy, Hervé This, as well as numerous food and wine masterclasses. The gastronomic program also involves excursions to Paris’ famous commercial food market and several Champagne houses to experience food and wine from its beginnings to the finished product. According to Sophie Mibus, a former participant in the program, “the combined experiences challenge everything you have ever thought about food, reawakening your long forgotten senses of smell and taste”. For more details contact australia@cordonbleu.edu.
Qantas Restaurants launches Qantas has introduced a new online restaurant booking platform which allows members to earn Qantas Points when dining at more than 2000 restaurants nationally. Qantas Loyalty has partnered with the Dimmi booking network to launch the program, Qantas Restaurants, along with a wide range of dining establishments, from casual to fine dining. Restaurants available include Sepia, Catalina and Otto Ristorante in Sydney; Urbane, E'cco Bistro and Restaurant Two in Brisbane; Flower Drum, Pei Modern, Café di Stasio and Matteos in Melbourne; 1907 and Sushia Izakaya in Perth; and Auge Ristorante, Milano, Cucina and Celcius in Adelaide. Restaurants in regional destinations including the Hunter Valley, Barossa and North Queensland are also available for bookings. Qantas Frequent Flyer rewards members with 100 points per person on the booking, with reservations confirmed instantly with no booking fee and can be made 24 hours a day online. OH
Want more industry news? For even more industry news, in-depth reports and new product information, or to sign up for Open House weekly email newsletter, visit www.openhousemagazine.net. You can also follow us on Facebook or Twitter (@ohfoodservice). Or download the free Open House iPad app, packed with additional, exclusive content and updated monthly, from the iTunes app store.
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Increase productivity More financial control Greater efficiencies More control of inventory More control of staff
COVER STORY
Seal the deal Sara Lee’s range of Classic Tray Desserts has made planning a dessert menu even simpler and a sure fire way to keep customers coming back for more.
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othing seals the deal like a beautiful dessert. They are the highlight of any menu, whether lunch or dinner, and are popular with young and old. But the key to keeping customers coming back for more is variety. Sara Lee’s expansive dessert range is a great way to keep your customers happy, keep your menu fresh and maintain your bottom line. Even with summer coming to an end the warm days are still lingering, along with an appetite for lighter desserts such as Sara Lee’s Tiramisu and Lemon Cream Pie. Part of the Sara Lee range of Classic Tray Desserts, Tiramisu is an Italian classic, delighting the palate with its delicate soft sponge, chocolate sauce, real coffee and fresh cream filling, finished with a sprinkle of chocolate flakes. The zesty Lemon Cream Pie is a firm favourite with its baked-from-scratch shortcrust pastry with a generous layer of tangy lemon curd, made with real lemon juice, and fresh cream.
indulgence made using real chocolate, which self sauces when heated – simply serve with your choice of ice cream to appeal during the warmer months. All the desserts in the Sara Lee range have the same great taste for which Sara Lee is renowned. Baked fresh every day to traditional recipes using only the finest and freshest ingredients wherever possible, including eggs and cream, Sara Lee’s Tray Desserts are snap frozen to seal in the maximum level of freshness, nutritional value and that “just baked” moment. All the desserts in the Classic Tray Desserts range can be cut frozen, thawed and then served when required. They also allow perfect portion control, giving foodservice operators the flexibility needed to size to their needs. All the Tray Desserts come in 30x20cm trays and can easily be portioned to meet every need, with thirty five 4x4cm serves from one tray for
Sara Lee’s classic Chocolate Pudding is also an all season treat. The ultimate chocolate
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morning tea or sixteen 7.5x5cm serves for dessert. And for convenience they can be served as is or decorated to add that unique touch. With Cheesecakes, Danishes, Puddings, Bavarians, Crumbles and an extensive range of Tray Cakes, Sara Lee has the variety to satisfy your customer’s needs and keep them hungry for more. For more information on Sara Lee’s range of desserts simply visit their website at www.foodservice.saralee.com.au OH
Available to order from your local distributor or contact Primo Food Service on (02) 9742 0000 or email sales@primosmallgoods.com.au
PROFILE
Food philosopher Tony Panetta’s journey from peeling spuds in his parents’ shed to running the kitchen at the Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre is defined by a love of local produce, writes Sheridan Randall.
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alk to enough chefs and it is quite amazing how many have a potato peeling story that is a pivotal moment in their culinary development. Tony Panetta is no exception. His love and passion for food come from his mother, but his work ethic was cemented by the long hours peeling spuds in his parents’ shop as an eight year old while his mates were romping carefree outside. What may have seemed a cruel and unusual punishment to the young Panetta’s mind has since blossomed into a cast iron work ethic that has seen him lead the culinary renaissance at the Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre (MCEC) over the last few years. Being responsible for functions up to 4800 people might burden some people, but not Panetta. For him it is simply “an honour to be able to do it”. Growing up in the small Victorian town of Heathcote, Panetta learned the ropes helping his mum and dad at their shop, which sold everything from pizzas through to arancini. After high school, and a spot of grape picking at Mildura, where he also got his culinary apprenticeship, Panetta left for Melbourne, just as his parents relocated to a six acre farm in Bendigo where they grew everything from pistachio and almond trees to cherries, oranges and limes. “Dad turned it into a self-sufficient place,” he says. “A real Italian thing. They tried to make their own wine and mill their own flour. I planted 16 olive trees in 1986 on Good Friday in 35ºC heat. I had to carry 30 wheel barrow loads of pebbles a kilometre each time. I’ll never forget it, but I still
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use those trees today. That’s where my love of Victorian produce comes in.” Working his way through Lygon and Brunswick Streets, Panetta eventually landed the job of head chef at Aitkin Hill, a boutique conference centre where he “developed a lot of my cooking skills and knowledge of how this place [MCEC] runs”. “What I’ve done coming here is bring the small mentality to a large venue,” he says. With a team of some 14 chefs, 70 kitchen hands and around 20 casual staff, and utilising a system of conveyor belts, the MCEC is as comfortable pumping out a breakfast for 20 as it is a dinner for 3000. “I have encouraged my staff to push those boundaries and start thinking outside the square,” he says. “The menu guide is just a guide. Every day is different. We really focus on what it looks like on the plate at the end and what it tastes like.” Every day Panetta walks all 97 metres of the kitchen to say hello to his staff before retreating back to his office, which sits in the corner of the kitchen – still not close enough to the action for his liking, with plans to move it right into the middle next year. “It’s not about looking at staff and telling them what to do, it’s more about involvement,” he says. With Australia now squarely on the global culinary map as a high achiever, Panetta is well aware that for many of the international delegates, the food they taste at the MCEC will often be the
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one they remember. “I thrive on it,” he says. “We want to showcase Victorian produce to our guests. I could tell you the name of the guy that grows the herbs. I did originally come from a smaller background, where you had a point of contact [with suppliers and producers] and that’s what I’ve tried to build up here. We really work with our suppliers. “We constantly get emails every day about what is in stock from our smaller suppliers. It’s almost like we have a plot of land out there and they grow it for us – it’s great.” As with all things in life it often comes back to our parents, and Panetta is no exception, with the MCEC’s homemade pickled green tomatoes turning up regularly on the charcuterie boards. “No one used them [green tomatoes] for years, yet mum and dad used to pickle them, and they are one of my favourites,” he says. “So for the last two years we have made 300 kilos each year. We buy the green tomatoes which are dead stock, they [the suppliers] get revenue for it and we get massive kudos because people look and go ‘wow that’s awesome’. “It’s all about the chef’s imagination and how much effort you want to put in. One of my apprentices said something to me 10 years ago which has always stuck with me. ‘It’s too hard not to be good at it’. If you going to make that effort, why not go the extra 2 per cent to make it perfect.” OH
ORIGINS OF...
Beer From the tables-tops of Egyptian Pharaohs to Captain Cook’s Endeavour, beer has been a beverage mainstay since the 5th millennium BC, discovers Anna-Louise McDougall.
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eer is one of the oldest beverages known to man, with the earliest evidence of beer believed to have been recorded in the 5th millennium BC on a Sumerian tablet found in Mesopotamia (Ancient Iran), which shows an image of people drinking from a bowl through reed straws. The majority of brewers at the time were women due to the female deities associated with the practice of brewing beer. The goddesses included Ninkasi, associated with the production of beer, and Siduri, associated with the enjoyment of beer. An ancient Sumerian poem honouring Ninkasi records the oldest surviving recipe of beer made from barley. The consumption of beer has spanned many ancient cultures;
it was a part of everyday life and religious practices for Egyptian Pharaohs, while in 450BC the Greek philosopher Sophocles wrote about the idea of moderation when it came to consuming the alcohol. The word “beer” comes from “bier”, as it was called in old German and Dutch languages, and was brought into Britain during the Middle Ages by tribes such as the Saxons. Beer drinking was a daily occurrence throughout much of Europe during the Middle Ages. Accessible to all social classes, its popularity was in part due to the fact that while the cleanliness of the water couldn’t always be assured, beer had been boiled as part of the brewing process. The key innovation in the creation of beer was the introduction of hops, a flavouring and stability agent, which began in northern Germany in the 13th century.
Just do it properly It is widely known that we have a skills shortage, and to be brutally honest it is not going to get any better in the foreseeable future. We have cut the guts out of our apprenticeship system, and despite the fact that many people want to bad mouth TAFE teachers, I happen to know a few good ones that still believe in the same principle that I do, “teach the basics properly”. Yeah, there are a lot of lazy teachers but there are also many that actually care about turning out competent tradespeople. I seriously don’t want to see another import or international student that has a competency in all aspects of cooking but who you wouldn’t trust to boil water. A lot of private providers are only interested in the
Originally a home-oriented practice, by the 14th and 15th centuries pubs and monasteries had begun brewing beer for mass consumption. The oldest known commercial brewery is the Weihenstephan Abbey brewery in Bavaria, Germany, which has been in operation since 1040. The industrialisation of beer came about with the introduction of the thermometer and hydrometer in 1770 which measured the fermentation progress. This allowed brewers to increase efficiency and gain greater control of the process. Before the introduction of the hydrometer beers were brewed from a single malt. Using the hydrometer allowed brewers to observe that pale malt produced more fermentable material than cheaper malts. Once this was known, brewers switched to using mostly pale malt with a small quantity
CONSULTANT CHEF
international student’s dollar and don’t care about the industry or actual producing skilled cooks. So what are we to do? If you think you have an actual interest in becoming a chef then let me give you some good solid facts. It is not a job; it is almost a calling. Forget the rubbish you watch on the television, no one is going to allow you to walk into a kitchen and let you start playing with expensive proteins and if they do they deserve everything they get from your experimenting. Forget trying to convince people like me that you are practising “fusion”. If you do not know the basics the best you will end up with is confusion. So here is the answer to getting
of high coloured malt added to produce darker beers. A British law of 1816 forbidding the use of any ingredients other than malt and hops in beer led to the invention of the drum roaster, which allowed for the creation of very dark, roasted malts. Australia was introduced to beer in 1770 when Captain James Cook brought beer with him on The Endeavour. In 1824 the Cascade brewery in Tasmania was founded and it remains Australia's oldest operational brewery. In 1887 the Foster brothers arrived from New York to establish the first lager brewery to use refrigeration in Australia. Recent years have seen the rise in craft and boutique beer companies in Australia delivering rediscovered old styles and making beer in smaller and sometimes single batches. OH
employment training with them. It is not all about the money, it is all about the trade – the better you learn your trade the better dollars you will earn in the long run. Finally, be mindful that the more you learn the more valuable you will be as a senior chef. And most of all, learn food costing and business management, for without this you will be lost in the long term.
Glenn Austin
www.glennaustinconsulting.com ahead in the food industry: find a long-term cook, take a look at them and see if that is where you want to be in 20 years’ time. Stage two is find a credible establishment that has lasted more than two years and seek
If you have any doubts about the above have a look at some of the brilliant chefs that have followed the same basics and achieved greatness in their careers, such as Gary Farrell, Gary Meghan, Andy North and Kim Chilcot to name a few. Basically, learn your trade and do it properly. Forget trying to be the fine dining guru, they simply don’t last. The consistent cooks cooking modern tasty food for the masses are the ones that are still here.
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Q&A
Gourmet destination With the Noosa International Food and Wine Festival, to be held from May 14-18, attracting an increasing number of visitors from around Australia, Anna-Louise McDougall asked festival director Jim Berardo what’s in store for 2014. Q: Which festival events are you most looking forward to? A: For 2014 it would have to be the 1960s beach party with Jonathan Barthelmess (The Apollo, NSW), Colin Fassnidge (Four in Hand, NSW), Dan Hong (Mr Wong, NSW), Justin North (The Burger Shed, NSW), Louis Tikaram (Longrain, NSW) and Matt Wilkinson (Pope Joan, VIC). As well as Neil Perry’s seafood lunch on Noosa Main Beach, Australia’s Best Home Cooked Dish competition and the delicious Produce Awards Shared Table lunch. Q: What do you think are the best culinary experiences in Queensland at the moment?
Q: What sort of experience do you need to put together a food festival of this scale?
Q: What are you looking for in the chefs you approach to be part of the official program?
A: First and foremost you must have an in-depth knowledge of the hospitality industry. Running a food and wine festival is all about the detail; it certainly parallels running a restaurant. You need to keep one eye on the detail and the other eye on the big picture. Being flexible and able to relate to multiple partners (food and wine events have many types of sponsors ranging from government to all lines of business) an event manager must expect to meet the goals and key performance indicators of those partners as well as to the event itself.
A: We look to see that their style of cooking fits the event. Everyone who attends the NIFW festival actually cooks and participates in the festival’s events. Additionally we look for creativity and a balance of cooking styles and cuisines among the chefs participating to provide a really broad spectrum of Australian cuisine. It is always important to include young, upcoming chefs, as they are the force of the future.
Q: The Noosa International Food and Wine (NIFW) festival is now in its 11th year. What have been the biggest changes to the festival over the years? A: The most significant change was the expansion to the international market, with international chefs, producers and winemakers. This expanded the event from a national focus to an international focus but more importantly promoted and validated what was being done in Australia as being world-class. Additionally the expansion of the program to other sites like Noosa Main Beach, events on the beach and dinner concerts at the Noosa National Park Lookout have made a significant impact to the event and have attracted many more attendees. 12 Open House, March 2014
Q: What is it about the festival that attracts acclaimed international and local chefs and winemakers? A: NIFW has a reputation with chefs for being a true “hats off” event for chefs. It’s a time for many of the chefs to catch up with each other and it is an opportunity for them to look at new food trends and techniques. Q: What sorts of challenges arise when organising a multi-venue food festival of this scale? A: There are many challenges, one of which is staffing the event to ensure the appropriate amount of assistance required for all of the visiting chefs. Also making sure the produce is here, and that the chefs are happy with that produce. And that everyone gets to the show on time – chefs, producers, winemakers and entertainers!
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A: There are many new culinary experiences emerging in Queensland; the influence of media on food and wine over the last several years has been enormous. Although initially the media coverage for TV shows like MasterChef and My Kitchen Rules was focused on restaurants and chefs, there is a growing interest in the home cook and the influences that chefs and producers have on home-cooked dishes. We have incorporated that trend into the 2014 NIFW program by hosting an Australia-wide competition for the “Best Home Cooked Dish”. Many restaurants in Queensland have morphed into a more relaxed form of dining with a tremendous focus on local produce. At the moment there are so many pockets of excellence throughout Queensland, with tremendous growth in regional areas, both north and south. Q: Are there any specific issues facing the Sunshine Coast food and wine industry at the moment? A: The Sunshine Coast is in an excellent position with its ever expanding number of food producers in this very rich, fertile region. There are many new products and producers coming to the region almost on a daily basis which is great for consumers in that they can access farm fresh product at local farmers’ markets throughout the Sunshine Coast and at Sunshine Coast restaurants. Q: What does the future hold for the Noosa International Food and Wine Festival? A: The event will continue to go from strength to strength by following international and national trends, promoting new and emerging talent, and most of all creating a festival which is truly unique. It will endeavour to create the “wow” factor each year by adding new elements and experiences for the attendees through a blend of food, wine, music and fun! OH
fresh new ideas
If you are looking for new ideas for your cafĂŠ, restaurant or takeaway then make sure you visit Foodservice Australia, running in Sydney from 25-27 May. Taste all the new food trends, try out the latest equipment and attend free business seminars. Register free online using code FOH.
27-29 May 2014 Royal Hall of Industries Moore Park, Sydney Register to visit at foodserviceaustralia.com.au
Official partner
SUSTAINABILITY
Urban harvest Honeybees have begun to create a sustainable buzz as more rooftop beehives hit the skylines of Australia’s capital cities, discovers Anna-Louise McDougall.
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ustainability and social responsibility are taking on greater importance within the foodservice industry, according to a study by leading foodservice consultancy Technomic. Among consumers, 63 per cent say they are more likely to visit a foodservice operation they view as socially conscious, which includes the humane treatment of animals and local community involvement. Urban beehives are one way businesses are currently promoting sustainability, ensuring the pollinators can survive threats of introduced insects that destroy honey bee populations and
providing customers with a natural “home-made” product. Aiming to address the importance of bees to the environment, Vanessa Kwiatowski and Mat Lumalasi pioneered Melbourne City Rooftop Honey (MCRH) in 2010. The rooftop honey initiative recognises the importance of sustaining green spaces in the evergrowing urban landscape. “People are looking at their cities in different ways these days, they want to live more sustainable lives, connect with nature and know where their food comes from,” says Kwiatowksi. “There are also growing concerns and awareness about bee
Shangri-La Hotel Sydney executive chef, Steven Krasicki.
numbers around the world.” Kwiatowski says pollinators are imperative for sustainable cities. “Surprisingly to some, the city is a great place for bees; the diversity in flora and pollen for one,” she says. “The poly-floral honey they make is damn fine too!” Kwiatowski and Lumalasi employ natural beekeeping methods which involve the kind of materials used to build the hives and the way the bees are looked after. MCRH don’t feed sugar to the bees as some beekeepers do, and all of their beehives are left with an ample store of honey for the bees to eat over the winter months. In response from the community, hive placements are continuing to grow in Melbourne. “This season we did an installation of a little bee village and bee friendly plants at the [lifestyle and entertainment hub] Jam Factory in South Yarra,” Kwiatowski said. “We are looking to expand next season with some more help in managing our hives.” The first hotel in Melbourne to introduce organic honey made on-site was the InterContinental Melbourne The Rialto which has eight rooftop hives located above Collins Street. Each hive houses between 20,000 and 60,000 Italian bees and produces up to 20kg of fresh honey each month as part of the hotel’s commitment to sustainability and sourcing local produce. In Sydney, the Swissôtel Sydney was the city’s first hotel to begin cultivating its own brand of organic, home-grown honey in conjunction with The Urban Beehive, an organisation which sets up and maintains urban hives in Sydney, in 2011. Known as the Buzz Factory, the hives house 200,000 bees on the roof of the hotel, overlooking Pitt Street Mall.
View slideshow in the Open House iPad app. 14 Open House, March 2014
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The honey produced at the hotel is extracted, strained and bottled and is not exposed to high temperature pasteurisation or micron filtering as commercially produced honey is.
More than 600kg of honey has been made over the last two years. Ross Buchanan, executive assistant manager of Swissôtel Sydney says, “It is simple yet effective initiatives like this that makes a difference in the hotel’s efforts to promote healthy, sustainable and environmentally-friendly living, making it a cost effective and selfsustainable venture”. This year the hotel plans to install an efficient water source and beefriendly plants and herbs such as lavender, rosemary and basil ensure the bees have a nearby nectar and pollen source to feed on during the cooler months. In Sydney’s Rocks area the ShangriLa Sydney partnered with the Urban Beehive late last year, with their five rooftop beehives having already produced 14kg of honey. The bees are said to produce a unique flavour of honey due to the exotic collection of trees and flowers found in inner Sydney’s green spaces, rooftop gardens and the Botanical Gardens. The hotel’s executive chef, Steven Krasicki, takes care of the bees, as well as overseeing the harvest of the honey and its distribution throughout the hotel’s restaurants and kitchens. “One third of everything we eat is pollinated through bees,” says Krasicki. “We seem to think in this industry that the farmers are way out there and we can just ask them for whatever we want, when in fact the areas that get rain are a lot closer to the ocean. It doesn’t make a lot of sense that we don’t see more beehives in the city.” Krasicki has been educating his 450-strong staff about the importance of bees to the environment, and has received positive feedback from the hotel’s restaurant patrons. “The more we get to talk about the bees with the patrons, the greater awareness we create,” he says. “The more awareness we create about our ingredients, the more respect we get for using them.” OH
COFFEE
Vue de Monde in Melbourne.
rated restaurants around the world. Heston Blumenthal, Phil Howard and hundreds of other top chefs choose Nespresso for many reasons, whether that’s taste, cost, training or the support we offer.” With the Australian palate “amongst the world’s most refined”, Caprile believes restaurants can’t afford to take a gamble with their coffee.
Pods on favourite A favourite with Aussie consumers, Nespresso is making a push into the commercial market with two new culinary ambassadors, writes Ylla Wright.
I
f there’s one company that knows the power of having a good front man associated with their product, it’s Nespresso. With the supremely suave George Clooney fronting its global television campaign since 2006, the company is growing at around 20 per cent a year. In 2011 global sales are reported to have reached US$3 billion.
Both Tetsuya’s and Vue de Monde at the Rialto are now serving Nespresso coffee to diners, and the pair are expected to play a pivotal role in Nespresso’s business-to-business growth strategy in Australia.
Here in Australia Nespresso Business Solutions has partnered with two of Australia’s most respected chefs, Tetsuya Wakuda, from Sydney’s Tetsuya’s, and Shannon Bennett, from Vue de Monde at the Rialto in Melbourne, naming them culinary ambassadors for the brand. They join existing ambassadors and Michelin starwinning chefs Heston Blumenthal (The Fat Duck in Bray, UK), Phil Howard (The Square in London) and Mauro Colagreco (Mirazur in Menton, France).
“Nespresso is currently served in over 700 Michelin star rated restaurants around the world; that represents a third of the Michelin
“Coffee is the final chance for a chance to make or maintain a good impression on diners,” she says. “Are your front-of-house staff skilled baristas? Can you say with the utmost confidence that you serve the perfect coffee every time?” Like the popular domestic machines, Nespresso’s commercial range uses fully sealed coffee capsules, available in a variety of intensities and cup sizes, and innovative machines that anyone can use to produce a consistent cup of coffee every time. As former director of the Michelin guides, Jean-Luc Naret, is quoted as saying, “consistency is the most important thing” for a restaurant. OH
Speaking at an industry event to announce the partnership, attended by top Sydney chefs including Dan Hong, Sean Connolly and Nino Zocalli, Tetsuya said he appreciated the brand’s consistency and quality. “I find diners remember the first course and the last course – which is coffee – and that’s why it is incredibly important that the coffee we serve at Tetsuya’s is consistently of the highest quality,” he said. Nespresso started its business-tobusiness offering in France in 1996 and has since grown to provide sales and services in more than 50 countries worldwide.
“It’s always been a long held objective to offer Nespresso Nespresso culinary to Australia’s ambassador best chefs and Tetsuya Wakuda. restaurateurs,” says Eva Caprile, commercial manager for Nespresso Australia. “We’ve reached a level of maturity where we can very confidently launch into this channel.
• Freshly roasted in Australia • European standards • 100% whole Arabica beans • Available in a 1kg pack • Produced using beans sourced from Central and South America, Africa and South East Asia
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Open House, March 2014
15
SEAFOOD
Blue mackerel.
A fish only a mother could love Sustainability is a catchword for many serving seafood, but Australian waters are teeming with fish that not many people seem to want on their plate, writes Sheridan Randall.
G
o to most seafood restaurants and chances are you’ll be offered a choice of snapper, barramundi or tuna. Basically a nice fillet with no bones in it. But not all restaurants choose the same path. Claypots Seafood Bar in Melbourne’s St Kilda offers everything from Australian salmon and blue mackerel through
to ocean jacket, silver dory and cuttlefish, according to head chef Dulal Hossain.
and snapper. Crumbed, battered or sauced and in fillets or served whole, it’s all about the fish.
Brisbane’s Jellyfish Restaurant also prides itself on offering a diverse range of fish, serving between eight to 14 species daily. Mahi mahi and wahoo sit alongside more wellknown names such as barramundi
“I’d say around 60-70 per cent of people always go for snapper or whiting, fish they know, as opposed to trying local fish, which is just as good,” says Heath Weber, the restaurant’s head chef.
The auction floor at Sydney Fish Market.
“We are using a new fish on the menu, mulloway, which was called jewfish. They used to be farmed in South Australia but now a new farm has opened up in Yamba (NSW), which I started using about two weeks ago. It’s an awesome fish. For people who like snapper or barramundi or any white thick flake fish, it’s perfect. It’s about educating people.” Weber himself has had an education in fish under the guidance of former executive chef Rhett Willis, in the five years he has worked at Jellyfish. “It’s mainly getting some of our native species utilised,” he says. “In Australian waters mackerel is a pretty common species, from blue
16 Open House, March 2014
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mackerel all the way through to Spanish. That’s one you pretty much need to educate your customers about because when they think of mackerel they think of dark grey oily fish that is strong in flavour, whereas Australian mackerel is nothing like that at all. “Mackerel is one of my favourite fish with its high oil content and omega 3. Because it has a high oil content I would have it with a vinegary sauce which will cut through that. The way I like it best is with salsa verde.” But the Australian public is still fairly unadventurous when it comes to their fish, preferring the convenience of filleted fish with a neutral taste. “One fish I wish I could put on here is red mullet, but people just wouldn’t buy it because the flavour is strong,” says Weber. “We get people in that won’t eat whole fish because it has bones in. The Chinese and Japanese come in and order a whole fish and there will be nothing left. But Australian
people need to be educated that the bones can be eaten too. We have tried doing fish head curries here and they just won’t go.” Gus Dannoun, supply manager at Sydney Fish Markets, describes Australia’s less loved fish as “under-utilised”. “We often ask ourselves why some fish fall out of favour with consumers but we don’t know the real answer to that,” he says. “It might be that they are a smaller fish. People see them as being fiddly as they can be a bit bony at times and they increasingly want convenience when it comes to eating their seafood. They like them in a fillet form where they don’t have to do anything other than throw them on a frying pan.
“
One fish I wish I could put on here is red mullet, but people just wouldn’t buy it because the flavour is strong.
“The younger generation in particular don’t like eating bones. When I talk about eating a fish whole I literally mean eating it off the bone. The flavours you get from eating
”
fish off the bone sometimes can be very different from eating a fish that has been filleted as you are losing all the flavours that the fish draws from its skeletal frame.” Australian fisheries often use quota systems to keep fish stocks at sustainable levels, however some abundant fish species are so shunned by consumers fishermen will avoid them completely, such as mirror dory, which Dannoun calls “John dory’s poor cousin”. “It’s caught in substantially larger numbers in this country than John dory yet people don’t know a great deal about it,” he says. “When you fillet it, it has a reasonably white looking flesh. Year round it comes in huge quantities yet you can pick
Cuttlefish.
it up filleted for under $15 a kilo or whole at under $6 a kilo and even down to as little as $3 a kilo on the auction floor during winter. “Another species we identify as grossly under-utilised is something like the humble leatherjacket or ocean jacket. It doesn’t have any strong flavours and is a white fleshed fish. In the ’60s and ’70s it was commonly sold in fish and chip outlets. It is almost a forgotten species although it is in abundance and has a very sweet flavour about it.” With some of the nutritionally healthiest, tastiest and most abundant species of fish in our waters being neglected by consumers, it appears education is the key. Weber says customers need to be made aware of where their food is coming from. “Compared with 20 years ago, we have come a long way,” he says. “But when people come in and they do want to try something different then the waiter can push them towards a certain dish.” That’s all they need. A little push. OH
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Open House, March 2014
17
BAKERY
A classic reinvented F
irst it was the cupcake, then the macaron and now the éclair is set to step into the pastry limelight this year if French pastry maestro Christophe Adam has anything to do with it. In Melbourne last year to hold a sell-out masterclass at Savour Chocolate & Patisserie School, Adam is credited with leading the éclair’s renaissance with his Éclair de Genie patisserie in Paris pumping out up to 2000 of these cream filled 19th century classics every day. French couple Frederic and Laurence Caillon have taken his lead, setting up Sydney’s first standalone éclair emporium in Bondi, La Maison de L'éclair. After founding the very successful Croquembouche Pâtisserie in 2000, the couple decided it was time to do something new. “It [the éclair] is really working well in Europe and as everything arrives in Australia we really just wanted to be the first ones to do it,” Laurence Caillon says.
breakfast and lunch. It’s a healthy way to go and something that is a bit different. It is exactly the same as making normal choux pastry but you have to adjust the quantity because the buckwheat flour is much heavier and stronger.” Coming in at around $7, Caillon says the strong appeal of their éclairs is that they are “an affordable luxury”. “They look amazing, the flavour is sensational and it is really good value, so what more can you ask for?” With a spate of chefs putting their own names to their interpretation of the classics were the couple tempted to put their own mark on their creations? “Both my husband and I are very traditional and I don’t think we will be putting our own trademark or name to them,” she says. “It’s still an éclair so why change its name!” Pastry chef Lorraine Godsmark, owner of Lorraine’s Patisserie
in Sydney, was one of the lucky few who got to attend Adam’s masterclass, saying it was “brilliant”. “He’s really a master,” she says. “He’s got a different technique to the traditional way of making them. When I made them myself the flavour of his batter is just beautiful and the actual shell is wafer thin.” Éclairs are not yet a staple of Lorraine’s Patisserie, but Godsmark has plans to introduce them shortly. In the meantime she has switched to using Adam’s recipe for choux pastry for her choux puffs. “A lot of people really overlook choux dough, thinking it is just a vehicle for a filling, and quite often they are soggy or bland or not cooked enough,” she says. “But his are just exquisite and the flavour is just beautiful. “Éclairs are like the new macaron in Paris, as there are lots of things you can do with them and because
Savoury éclairs at La Maison de L'éclair.
Photo: @Diph-photography.
With the éclair set to hog the pastry limelight this year, Australia is giving this French classic a bit of a twist, discovers Sheridan Randall.
you can change the flavour so much. With éclairs you can get some really nice colours into your shop and make it look bright, cheery and happy.”
When cultures collide What happens when you cross an éclair with a lamington? You get a $9 sugar hit that has customers coming back for more, according to Darren Purchese, pastry chef and owner of Melbourne’s Burch & Purchese Sweet Studio. The idea of crossing an éclair with a lamington came after one of his pastry chefs attended Adam’s masterclass, where she witnessed him attempt to bring an Aussie touch to one of his masterpieces. “He’s French so he has no idea what this famous Australian pastry is meant to taste like,” says Purchese. “So we said let’s do one. We haven’t been able to take it off [the menu] since.
“It is massive in Paris with everyone talking about it, with all the big names like Pierre Hermé making eclairs at the moment. It was only a matter of time before it came here [to Australia].” Conceding that the éclair is “something that you don’t pay attention to anymore because it is so dated”, Caillon says that “you just give it a little twist and more flavours and all of a sudden it’s something new”. “That’s why we make 22 different [sweet] flavours. What strikes people when they get into the shop is the colours. It’s so beautiful,” she says. But in another twist customers can also expect to see combinations such as foie gras and fig, and duck, gorgonzola, pear and walnut featuring on the menu. “I take all the credit for the savoury!” she says. “This is something that people won’t expect, especially made with buckwheat.
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The lamington inspired éclair at Melbourne’s Burch & Purchese Sweet Studio
Photo: Ari Hatzis.
“For us [using buckwheat] was such a simple solution. It’s really been a hit now that people are used to it, with people having them for
“There are all the flavours of the lamington inside the éclair, including homemade jam and soaked sponge. It’s an open éclair, so we bake the pastry, cut it like an open sandwich and stuff it with coconut covered marshmallows, freeze dried raspberries and milk chocolate mousse. There are all sorts of different components, textures and contrasts in it. So when you eat it as a whole it sort of tastes like a lamington in your mouth.” The team at Sweet Studio prides itself “on doing things that no one else does”. “That is what gets us out of bed every
morning,” Purchese says. “We’re not really a French pastry shop, we’re an Australian pastry shop. “In the past it was felt that if you didn’t have hundreds of years of tradition you weren’t quite as good as other countries. But the fact that you are not held back by having to have an opera cake, a macaron or a traditional coffee éclair in your pastry cabinet gives you the freedom to come up with completely new combinations and techniques. Australia has taken the best parts of everywhere and all the available produce they have and are really world leaders at the moment. We should be proud.” OH
Masterclass with a maestro Open House spoke with Kirsten Tibballs, the director of Savour Chocolate & Patisserie School, about Christophe Adam’s masterclass in 2013. Q: How did you arrange to get Christophe over? A: A mutual friend of mine put us in contact. Christophe has been instrumental in the relaunch of the éclair worldwide, firstly with his work at Fauchon and then in his own dedicated éclair shops. Q: Who else attended the classes and how did they get a place? A: We opened the class up to anyone and everyone and it was a case of first in, first served. We sold out the same day it was launched. Unfortunately, with only 12 spaces available, we ended up with over 60 disappointed students on a waiting list. Adriano Zumbo, Lorraine Godsmark and MasterChef contestant Kylie Millar were also attendees of the class. Q: Did Christophe try anything new while he was here? A: He created a few new éclairs while here in Australia [honeycomb and lamington]. Honeycomb is unique to Australia and New Zealand and Christophe had never seen it before. He loved it! Maybe he’ll add the honeycomb or lamington to his range in Paris.
Q: What was the feedback from the participants afterwards? A: Overall we had great feedback. He had a very laid back style and approach to teaching that didn’t suit everyone, but his knowledge and creativity was wonderful.
C
allebaut Kirsten Tibballs
Q: How important are events such as these in raising the bar and bringing new techniques to Australian chefs? A: It is essential to bring these talented individuals out to Australia. Not everyone gets the chance to travel, so it gives chefs and pastry chefs an opportunity to up skill without the expense and travel. Also, a lot of our guest chefs don’t teach a lot, as they often run their own businesses, so it is often a rare opportunity to work with them. Q: Any plans to bring him back? A: Christophe and I are both keen for him to come back. He loved Australia and was surprised with the level of expertise of some of our chefs. As a result of Christophe’s visit, we have introduced an éclairs class inspired by Christophe’s recipes, which includes new recipes developed by our chefs. Since its inception, our éclairs classes have been one of our most popular. More details of the class can be found here: www.savourschool.com.au.
Watch the video in the Open House iPad app.
Perfect
The Hot Chocolate 240g 400g 1000g 2 tsp 4 tsp 3 20g Pinch
Callebaut Sao Thomé Origin Dark Couverture 70% Bulla Thickened Cream 35% fat Full Cream Milk Ground Aniseeds Orange Zest Vanilla Beans (split and scraped) Ginger Maldon Sea Salt
Combine the cream, milk, aniseeds, vanilla beans, orange zest and ginger. Bring to a boil then cover and reduce the heat to simmer for 6 minutes. Pour the chocolate mixture through a sieve over the chocolate and add salt. Blitz with a hand held blender to combine and create a foam.
A signature recipe from Kirsten’s award winning cookbook ‘Chocolate to Savour’
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Open House, March 2014
19
GLUTEN-FREE
Clean living As demand for gluten-free dishes increases, having procedures in place to avoid cross contamination is vital, writes Ylla Wright.
D
emand for gluten-free food has skyrocketed in recent years, with around one in 70 Australians suffering from coeliac disease, a serious medical condition which prevents sufferers from digesting gluten – a protein found in wheat, rye, barley and oats and products derived from them – and as many as 28 per cent of the population following a gluten-free diet to some degree. For those diners unlucky enough to suffer from coeliac disease eating food containing gluten can lead to
symptoms ranging from diarrhoea, nausea and vomiting to fatigue and lethargy, and even serious medical conditions such as malnutrition, osteoporosis and infertility if the disease is left untreated. The only treatment is to stop consuming gluten altogether. With such a significant proportion of the population affected, it pays to have at least some gluten-free options on your menu; however there are a number of challenges to catering to those on a gluten-free
Cheers to that Fair vodka is a new French vodka made with organic, fairtrade certified Quinoa, making it both sustainable and suitable for a gluten-free diet. Vodka has traditionally been made from grains such as wheat, barley and rye (although it can also be made from other ingredients including grapes, potatoes and corn) making it unsuitable for coeliacs. Made from quinoa sourced in Bolivia from small independent producers grouped under a cooperative, the ANAPQUI (National Association of Quinoa Producers), the vodka is produced and bottled in France. The quinoa seeds are cultivated according to
20 Open House, March 2014
organic farming methods. Under the agreement, the Fair Spirits Company guarantees higher margins to the farmers and producers, and they also donate 2.5 per cent of their turnover to the local community to be put towards funding local development programs such as schools and hospitals.
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diet, not least the fact that gluten is found not only in bakery items such as bread and cakes, but also products such as processed meats, icing sugar mixture, vinegar, mayonnaise and commercially produced stocks, gravies and condiments. “First off, chefs need to know what gluten is and what products and ingredients it is found in, but once that’s established, it’s also about eliminating cross-contamination in the kitchen,” says Coeliac Australia technical officer Penny Dellsperger. “Its fine for kitchen areas to be used for both [gluten-free and non gluten-free dishes] but there do need to be processes in place to avoid contamination. “When we talk about the amount that’s an issue, if you can imagine a slice of bread, one hundredth of a slice of bread contains enough gluten to cause damage or symptoms for someone with coeliac disease. It’s a very small amount; probably the size of a baby’s fingernail.” Surfaces need to be cleaned thoroughly before they’re used to make gluten-free dishes, with no visible traces such as crumbs, and fresh utensils used. For chef Johnny Di Francesco from Melbourne’s 400 gradi, whose
menu consists of about 20 per cent gluten-free dishes, avoiding crosscontamination is a key consideration. “We have a number of procedures that we follow to ensure there is no cross contamination of products,” he says. “When we do gluten-free pasta, for example, we have separate pots that we cook the pasta in.” The chef, who came sixth in the gluten-free category of last year’s World Pizza Championship in Parma, Italy, says it is concerns about cross contamination that stop him from serving gluten-free pizzas in the restaurant. “I have a great gluten-free base that we’ve created but at the moment we don’t cook it here, because we cook on stone and I don’t want to risk anyone’s health,” he says. “I’ve had thoughts of opening a pizzeria where we do gluten and non gluten pizzas, but have two separate kitchens. That’s something I’d love to do in the future.” Making life easier for chefs is the growing number of good quality gluten-free products that are now available to foodservice, including pastas, cereals, breadcrumbs, premade cakes, biscuits and slices, flours and bread mixes, meaning you
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don’t necessarily have to make every element of a dish from scratch, and reducing the opportunity for cross contamination. Fiona Whatley, from Victorian food producer Springhill Farm, has seen the market for gluten-free products grow from a few enquiries 10 years ago to around 30 per cent of the company’s business. Six years ago they built a dedicated gluten-free facility in their factory. “A lot of factories have clean down procedures, which is fine, but we wanted to take the next step,” she says. “It has its own air filtration system, storage area and the like, to prevent cross-contamination.” A stand-out amongst Springhill Farm’s range of gluten-free products is the real bread mix which is available in 10kg packs for foodservice clients, and takes the hard work out of making not only bread, but any number of other items including muffins, banana bread, waffles, puddings and pizza bases. According to Whatley, the mix is unique due to its lack of gums, thickeners and additives and its use of real ingredients which
are also healthy, such as flaxseed flour, psyllium and pea protein. Finished products in the company’s gluten-free range include wrapped and unwrapped biscuits, slices and rocky road. “We’d like to think we were one of the first companies doing really good gluten-free products where people could serve them to everyone, rather than just serving them to people who need them,” she says. While chefs’ understanding of the issues surrounding gluten-free is “certainly better than it used to be”, Dellsperger says there is still a way to go. Coeliac Australia offers a range of resources to help foodservice businesses modify menus and control cross-contamination. “It can be very confusing to foodservice because you have those people with coeliac disease who need a really strict diet, but then you also have the market of people who follow a gluten free diet but for other reasons, who are often less strict with their gluten-free diet,” she admits. “That sends a bit of a mixed message to a lot of foodservice staff, which isn’t very helpful to them.” OH
Fast facts • Approximately one in 70 Australians is affected by ceoliac disease (also known as glutenintolerance) but as many as 80 per cent of people who have the disease may not know it. • Surveys show that up to 28 per cent of the population follows a gluten-free diet to some degree. • People are born with a genetic predisposition towards ceoliac disease, however not everyone with the gene will go on to develop it. It can be triggered at any time. The condition is more prevalent in women than men.
stomach cramps. It affects the lining of the small intestine, the part of the digestive system responsible for absorbing nutrients, and can lead to serious medical conditions such as malnutrition, osteoporosis and infertility if left untreated. • The only treatment for the disease is to eliminate gluten from the diet completely. This allows the bowel lining to recover.
• Ceoliac disease is an autoimmune disorder which means that the body produces antibodies that attack its own tissues. It is triggered by gluten, a protein found in wheat, rye, barley and oats.
• Foods that contain gluten include not only most breads, cakes, biscuits, pastry, pasta, batter and breadcrumbs, but also a number of prepared products such as processed meats, icing sugar mixture, vinegar, mayonnaise and commercially produced stocks, gravies and condiments.
• Symptoms of ceoliac disease include bloating; diarrhea or constipation; fatigue, weakness and lethargy; weight loss (or stunted growth in children); nausea and vomiting, and
• Flours which don’t contain gluten and can be used in place of wheat flour include corn/maize, millet, soya flour, rice flour, potato flour, quinoa flour, buckwheat flour and sorghum flour.
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FINE FOOD QUEENSLAND
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It’s showtime! Fine Food Queensland is back in 2014, with a new local focus and a number of new features designed to appeal to foodservice professionals.
F
ine Food Queensland returns to Brisbane Convention and Exhibition Centre next month, with a three-day programme which will shine the spotlight on local issues, producers, retailers and chefs, according to organisers. Fine Food Queensland’s exhibition manager Minnie Constan says they revitalised the 2014 programme to reflect recent changes in the industry in Queensland.
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returns with a prize worth $15,000 to help kick-start your culinary career. The winning team will be off to to see some of the best chefs in the world cook for the ultimate title.
HURRY! ENTRIES CLOSE 2ND MAY 2014
Entry is for teams of two with both entrants under 25 years on 30th September 2014 (must not have a birth date before 30th September 1989). Entrants must be residents of Australia. For full entry details, go to nestle-goldenchefs.com.au. Regional cook-offs scheduled between June & July 2014. National cook-off to be held in Melbourne in September.
24 Open House, March 2014
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“The past 18 to 24 months have been tough for hospitality in Queensland,” she says. “Brisbane operators in particular have felt the pinch as new bars, restaurants and cafes have opened, and leading names have pulled up stumps and closed
their doors for a range of reasons. “The hospitality industry is a tough one. There’s a myriad of factors that affect each and every business, from suppliers and producers, to restaurant owners and staff. “The much-lauded paddock-toplate process is often brutal and this year Fine Food Queensland will host a range of forums and masterclasses with industry leaders to recognise and assist all parts of this food chain.” The show will also continue to promote new and innovative food, beverages and equipment from around Australia. From fresh fruit and vegetables to meat, seafood and confectionary, the show promises
to have something for everyone in the foodservice space. New features this year include: • Drinks at Fine Food Queensland – The Fine Food Queensland Beverage Theatre will feature a number of local experts in the beverage industry, presenting
a range of interactive and informative masterclasses, and will also host the Australian Smoothie & Juice Championships 2014. • Business Sessions at Fine Food Queensland – The Business Seminars will focus on hot topics, current and future trends and the nature of the business. • Caterer’s Kitchen at Fine Food Queensland – Caterers Kitchen is an interactive kitchen which will showcase a number of industry leaders demonstrating their products as well as answering questions to provide menu inspiration. • Chef’s Studio – A panel of local and interstate chefs will discuss what’s hot and what’s not, and how to survive and thrive in the foodservice industry. • Fresh Produce Lane – This section will showcase locally grown fresh produce, displays from local growers about seasonal products unique to Queensland and pay homage to the global movement Eat Local. The tradeshow will also host the Australian Culinary Federation Queensland’s Restaurant of Champions, a competition which promotes the highest culinary standards, with an emphasis on showcasing and developing standards of gastronomy in Australia. Fine Food Queensland will be held at Brisbane Convention and Exhibition Centre, from April 13-15, 2014. Registrations are now open at www.finefoodqueensland.com.au. OH
Visit nafdarewards.com.au for all the details. Delivering Rewards for your business! To get your NAFDA Best of the Best catalogue call 02 8833 9299 or email bestofthebest@nafda.com.au twitter.com/NAFDA_BOB Facebook.com/NAFDAFoodservice
www.openhousemagazine.net NAFDAbob2014OPENhouseHALFvert2.indd 1
Open House, March 2014 13/02/1425 5:29 PM
COOKING THE BOOKS
Simple pleasures With a food philosophy that sees him use the best possible ingredients to produce great, yet uncomplicated food, Daniel Wilson, chef and owner of Huxtable, is one of Melbourne’s most exciting young chefs.
John Dory with fricassee of peas, smoked mussels and lomo Serves 4, as part of a shared meal
J
ohn dory is one of my favourite fish. I love how firm and sweet it is, and how it goes a little crispy when pan-fried in ghee. The pea fricassee is also delicious with some chopped flat-leaf (Italian) parsley stirred through at the last minute, when adding the butter.
Heat the vegetable oil in a large saucepan over high heat. Add the shallot and garlic and sweat for 30 seconds. Add the mussels and cook for 3-4 minutes, or until they have all opened. Discard any mussels that haven’t opened.
1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1 French shallot, sliced 2 garlic cloves, sliced 1kg mussels, beards removed, scrubbed well Wood chips, for smoking 30g ghee (clarified butter) 500g skinless john dory fillets, pin boned Sourdough bread, to serve
Once the mussels have cooled, check again and remove any beards you might have missed. Remove the mussels from their shells and place them in the reserved cooking liquid so they stay juicy and plump.
Pea fricassee 350g fresh peas, shelled 100g lomo (see Note) or Canadian bacon, diced 50g butter, diced
Strain the mussels, reserving the mussel liquid in a wide bowl or tray that will fit inside a smoker.
Heat the wood chips in a smoker or kettle barbecue until they start to smoke. (Alternatively, line the bottom of an old wok or saucepan with foil, place your wood chips on the foil and heat over a high gas flame until smoking.) Place the bowl or tray of mussels and mussel stock into your smoking device. Reduce the heat to low, cover and leave to smoke for 20–30 minutes, depending on how smoked
you’d like the mussels. Remove from the smoker and allow to cool. For the pea fricassee Place the peas and lomo in a saucepan. Add the mussel stock and bring to a simmer. Cook for 3 minutes, or until the peas are almost tender. Add the mussels and cook until the peas are tender. Stir in the butter. You probably won’t need any salt, but maybe a little freshly ground black pepper. Keep warm. To serve Heat a large non-stick frying pan over high heat with the ghee. Season the fish with salt and pepper, then cook for 2-3 minutes on each side, or until just cooked through. Spoon the peas and mussels and their liquid into a wide bowl. Arrange the fish fillets on top. Serve with crusty sourdough, to mop up all the juices.
NOTE
Recipe and image from Huxtabook by Daniel Wilson (Hardie Grant, $49.95). OH
26 Open House, March 2014
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Lomo is the Spanish word for “loin”. Here we are using very lean, dry-cured pork loin, rather than beef loin.
What’s on shelf this month?
The world’s best spicy food (Lonely Planet, $29.99) French for everyone by Manu Fieldel (Penguin, $49.99) Manu Feildel may have recently sold his restaurant L’etoile but the French-born chef has not turned his back on French cuisine, as is evident in this collection of simple yet stylish recipes where the ingredients are the star of the show. While some dishes such as ham and mushroom vol au vents and prawn cocktail may seem a little old fashioned, Feildel’s classically-inspired braises and roasts won’t fail to hit the spot during the winter months.
Hidden kitchens of Sri Lanka by Bree Hutchins (Murdoch Books, $49.99) With a passion for Sri Lankan food and culture, Bree Hutchins travelled throughout the island nation with the help of Dilmah and the MJF Charitable Foundation, exploring its markets and domestic kitchens, feasts and festivals, and capturing the stories and recipes of its people. Inspirational in more ways than one, many of the stories in this gorgeous book highlight the resilience, determination and positivity of the Sri Lankan people.
Travel introduces people to new culinary worlds, stimulates the imagination and provides inspiration, and the authors of the Lonely Planet series of travel guides are clearly no exception if this collection of spicy recipes from around the globe is anything to go by. More than 100 recipes, ranging from Mexican salsa and jambalaya to Malaysian laksa and eye-wateringly hot curry, are accompanied with detailed information about the dish’s origins, variations and advice on where to find the best examples. Definitely one for the backpack next time you head overseas.
Get it while it’s hot! Open House is now available as an iPad app, offering even more ways to enjoy industry news, views and feature stories on the key issues and trends affecting the hospitality industry. This exciting free app is packed with bonus extras including recipes, behindthe-scenes videos and interactive features. Updated monthly, the Open House iPad app is available to download free at the iTunes app store or www.openhousemagazine.net.
www.openhousemagazine.net
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PRODUCTS
Mixer fever Fever-Tree has released their range of premium mixers made with natural and organic ingredients in Australia. Using natural sugars such as cane sugar and fruit sugar to complement and enhance spirits, the mixers are ideal for bars and restaurants. Lemon thyme and rosemary from Provence are infused with lemons from Sicily to make their Mediterranean Tonic Water, the first tonic water created to specifically complement vodka. The range also includes Premium Indian Tonic Water, Ginger Beer, Lemonade, Ginger Ale and Soda Water. www.southtradeint.com.au
Crystal clear HIT Equipment has introduced the GP 5 Glass Polisher for the efficient removal of stains and marks on glassware used in restaurant, cafes, bars and hotels. Using a combination of hot air, rotation and the drying action of the rollers, the HIT GP 5 has the capacity to clean 500 glasses per hour.
All rolled up G
oodman Fielder has released new artisan white ciabatta dinner rolls. The latest addition to the frozen artisan bread range, the golden brown dinner rolls have a crusty top, chewy base and soft interior. Easy to prepare for meal time rush-hour, the rolls can be taken straight from the freezer and baked for seven minutes. Ideal for functions and on restaurant tables, their versatility means they can also be used by pubs, clubs and caterers. www.goodmanfielder.com.au
Artisan cheese Organic Dairy Farmers of Australia have introduced the handcrafted Mousseron cheese to their range, made using only local organic milk. The semi-hard, smeared ripened cheese is typical of Les Moussieres in France with a subtle, 28 Open House, March 2014
Designed to save labour time, the glass polisher is finished in bright stainless steel making it easy to clean after use. www.hit-equipment.com.au
yet complex flavour, due to the quality of the milk and the exacting cheese making process, which involves adding four different cultures as the curd is setting. Hand-made in small batches, only 15,000 kilograms of Mousseron is being released in the first 12 months. The Mousseron is available in 150g wedges or cut from an eight kilogram wheel. www.organicdairyfarmers.com.au
Juiced up European juice company Rauch has recently introduced their premium juice and nectars in Australia. Made from 100 per cent fruit with no added sugar, the juices are ideal for health conscious patrons and customers and provide the perfect base for cocktails and functions. The juices are available in pineapple, apple, orange, ACE (orange, carrot, lemon), strawberry and tomato flavours. The nectars come in apricot, peach and pear flavours.
Fair trade brew
The juices are available in 200ml glass units or 1L Tetra packs. www.brunodistributors.com.au
Griffith’s Coffee have launched Just Fair Coffee, the only fair trade organic coffee that comes in a reusable and fully recyclable 250g can.
www.openhousemagazine.net
With a rich and nutty cocoa taste and sweet honey undertone, Just Fair Coffee’s Arabica beans have been sourced from Honduras and Peru and are 100 per cent fair trade and organically certified.
Clear alternative
A decaffeinated blend and whole beans are also available, along with larger packs for the foodservice industry. www.griffithscoffee.com.au
An eco-friendly alternative to conventional plastic, the bio-plastic results in 75 per cent less greenhouse gases than conventional plastics. BioSalad Bowls come in sizes including 24oz and 32oz, with a single lid solution. The bowls are perfect for cold meals including salads, fruit and muesli. www.biopak.com.au
Chef brights
BioPak’s new BioSalad Bowls are made from plant-based bio-plastic grown for industrial uses and are ideal for takeaway outlets.
Solo Mia Designs has launched a colour range of leather aprons for the hospitality industry. Solo Mia Designs’ male and female bib aprons and hospitality aprons (waist to knee) are now available in navy, hunter green, turquoise, red, terracotta, bone, camel, tan and dark tan. With an added side loop to hold cloths and tea towels, the aprons can be cleaned with a damp cloth. Logo embossing is also available for cafes, restaurants, bars and hotels. www.solomiadesigns.com.au
All bran new Kellogg’s All-Bran's High Fibre Muesli is a healthy option for the breakfast rush-hour. Ideal for the growing number of hotel patrons and attendees at breakfast functions who favour a nutritious breakfast, All-Bran High Fibre Muesli combines rolled wholegrain oats, crunchy All-Bran shreds mixed with nutritious seeds and fruit pieces for digestive health. The packs are available in Apricot and Almond, Summer Fruits, and Cranberry and Pink Lady Apple. www.all-bran.com.au OH www.openhousemagazine.net
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CULINARY CLIPPINGS
Final farewell T
his article is the hardest one for me to write as it is my last as the National President of the Australian Culinary Federation (ACF) following my recent decision to resign. After 100 months as president I feel the time is right for some new blood.
PRESIDENT’S MESSAGE
Peter Wright Australian Culinary Federation (ACF)
During my time as president we have seen many changes at the ACF and recognised many chefs for their contribution to the fabric of Australian kitchens. Nationalising and creating the unity of the ACF, developing the certified chef program, junior chefs’ program and the apprentice of the year program are a few of my highlights. Creating a national office platform and employing our first paid employee is also a great achievement and will ensure our progress continues. Participating in Nestlé Professional Golden Chef’s Hat and Fonterra Proud to be a Chef are two
programs that change lives and careers and they have definitely changed mine.
keep up the great work, and to all the loyal ACF members you have made the journey really worth it.
Thank you to all the supporters who fund our activities – Fonterra, Moffat, Bidvest, Nestlé Professional, Meat & Livestock Australia, Krio Krush the Kings of Spice, Robot Coupe, Victorinox and Diversified. Also a particular thanks to Editha Del Carmen, Carolyn Plummer, Steven Popovic, Otto Meile, Peter Crowe, Lachlan Bowtell, Lee Alsten and Minnie Constan.
Finally thanks to Paul Moore, our web man and all round great bloke, Deb Foreman by name and by nature, Pat O’Brien for his dedication to young chefs and Glenn Austin for his determination to improve our industry. A final thanks to Bruno Gentile, Steven Mcfarlane, Dale Prentice, Dale Lyman, Ross Hannah, Sandra Foreman, Andre Kropp, Louise De Luca and Neil Abrahams for their integrity and support.
Thank you to all the TAFE colleges, registered training organisations, high schools and all who teach professional cookery for your ongoing commitment to Australian kitchens. To all committee members who voluntarily organise each states’ activities and keep the membership momentum going, thank you and
Peter Wright National President Australian Culinary Federation peter@austinwright.com.au www.austculinary.com.au
WA apprenctice wins Fonterra Proud to be a Chef program Apprentice Ashlee Carter (pictured) from Margaret River, Western Australia, was awarded first place in the 15th annual Fonterra Proud to be a Chef program, receiving the major prize of an international culinary paid placement tailored to her personal aspirations as a chef.
competition from 32 finalists from across Australia who took part in three days of masterclasses in Melbourne, with her original recipe for a Mainland blue vein sponge with popping mulled pears, a baked white chocolate crumb, yogurt chard and hazelnut and chocolate pearls.
The winners of the Fonterra Proud to be a Chef program were announced recently at a gala event attended by some of Australia’s top chefs and leaders of the culinary industry.
New South Wales finalist John Agzarian won second place and Michelle Bonetti from Perth, Western Australia, was awarded third place.
Carter, who studies at the South West Institute of Technology and works at Voyager Estate in Margaret River, beat off strong
Fonterra Proud to be a Chef coordinator Carolyn Plummer said that the standard of the finalists in the 2014 competition was incredibly
Venue: Angliss Restaurant Date: Saturday May 10, 2014 Time: 7pm Cost: $80 per person Address: 550 Little Lonsdale Street, Melbourne
“Fonterra is proud to support passionate and committed Australian chefs, and through this program we hope we can contribute to growing their education and their careers, as well as encourage them to continue with their culinary passion,” said Plummer.
Four in one fundraiser The Australian Culinary Federation Victoria chapter and Angliss Restaurant is hosting its first chefs dinner for the year. Dale Prentice, Jeffrey Tan, Tony Twitchett and Adam Khazaal will be designing the four course dinner menu matched with wines, with proceeds going to help send young chefs to the Bill Gallagher Young Chefs Forum in Norway.
For bookings call (03) 9606 2108 or email goodfood@angliss.edu.au 30 Open House, March 2014
high, with all the apprentice chefs showing outstanding enthusiasm, originality and creativity.
www.openhousemagazine.net
Watch the video in the Open House iPad app.
Glenn Austin honoured for Excellence Consultant chef Glenn Austin (pictured) has been presented with the 2014 Award for Excellence by the Australian Culinary Federation Queensland. One of five nominees, Austin was recognised by his peers at a recent annual Gala Dinner held at the Brisbane Club. The first Australian to hold the position of Continental Director on the World Board of Chefs Pacific Rim, Austin is also the Australian Culinary Federation Honorary Life
President, International Judge for Worlds Association of Chefs and a two time Australian International Culinary Team member. Bruno Gentile, president of ACF Queensland said “the Award for Excellence represents a moment in our industry where we pause and honour our fellow colleagues for their regard and admiration of our industry”. Austin’s career spans over 35 years and includes being executive chef and business development manager
Fonterra Global; winner of the Amex Restaurant of the Year; two time Australian international culinary team member; team member for the Davos Project; Australian national team leader of the World Cooks Tour for Hunger South Africa; general manager at Murray Human Services; and seafood ambassador to the Thai Government. “It is always humbling to be recognised for your efforts by your peers,” Austin said. “I would also be not being truthful
if I did not mention it was also gratifying to know that 28 years of voluntary work did not go unnoticed. This award is proof to all others in our industry that it is ultimately rewarding to be generous with your time to support others.”
Queensland’s new culinary team announced The Australian Culinary Federation Queensland has selected some of the state’s best chefs and apprentices to form the first ever Queensland Culinary Training Squad, which is set to represent Queensland nationally and internationally. Chef Daniel Peters, from Jam Corner in Townsville; chef Cobi Riethmuller, from the
Walnut Room, Royal on the Park Brisbane; chef Mark White, from Anava Cuisine in Toowoomba; apprentice Ryan Ballie, from the Stamford Plaza Brisbane; apprentice Michael Wade, from the North’s Leagues & Services Club Kallangur; apprentice Matt Clark from the Walnut Room, Royal on the Park, Brisbane; and apprentice Ryan Grant, from the
Little Truffle, Broadbeach, all hope to compete at the highest level and bring home as many medals as they can.
training coach for the squad. The Culinary Squad also aims to bring a greater awareness of Queensland as a tourist destination as well as its local food and wine.
David Tupper, from Chefs for Australia, will be team manager and Stephen Forrester, from Novotel Twin Waters, will be the assistant manager, while chef Shannon Kellam will also play a vital role as the mentor and
“Our congratulation goes to the new members of this young and dynamic squad,” said Bruno Gentile, ACF Queensland’s president.
Golden opportunity It’s on again! The Nestlé Golden Chef's Hat Award is gearing up for 2014 to help junior and apprentice chefs develop their cooking skills and broaden their culinary horizons. It’s the longest running culinary competition in Australia that offers young chefs the chance to really find out where they are as a chef, by pitting themselves against their peers and benchmarking their cooking skills.
The competition is open to apprentice and junior chefs, who are residents of Australia and under 25 on September 30, 2014. One half of last year’s winning team from Tasmania, Libby Green, has headed off to take up an offer of work at award-winning Le Quartier Francais, in South Africa, under Grand Chef Margot Janse. Previous winners include Richard Ousby, who is to head the kitchen at the new Sydney Opera House restaurant, and Ben Devlin,
Official organ for the Australian Culinary Federation; Association of Professional Chefs and Cooks of NSW; Professional Chefs and Cooks Association of Queensland Inc.; Academie Culinaire de France; College of Catering Studies and Hotel Administration, Ryde, NSW; Les Toques Blanches, NSW Branch; Australasian Guild of Professional Cooks Ltd. Subscriptions: 1 yr $99; 2 yrs $174; 3 yrs $261 (incl. GST and surface mail).
ISSN 0312-5998
OPEN HOUSE FOODSERVICE is proud to be a diamond sponsor of the ACF.
now head chef at Brisbane three-hatter Esquire. The pair won it back in 2005. This year, the national winning team will be off to France for the world’s most prestigious cooking competition, the Bocuse d’Or World Finals, to see the best chefs in the world cook for the ultimate title. The state and territory heats begin in June, with the finals to be held in September, so get your application in now. OH
PUBLISHER Alexandra Yeomans MANAGING EDITOR Ylla Wright JOURNALIST Sheridan Randall SALES & MARKETING MANAGER Jo Robinson ACCOUNT MANAGER Leah Jensen DESIGN/PRODUCTION MANAGER Bin Zhou DIGITAL/PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Xin Jin EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Anna-Louise McDougall
For information on ACF, visit www.austculinary.com.au, or contact the ACF National Office via acfnationaloffice@austculinary.com.au or (03) 9816 9859.
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Published in Australia by Creative Head Media Pty Ltd · P.O. Box 189, St Leonards, NSW 1590 Foodservice . Opinions expressed by the www.openhousemagazine.net contributors in this magazine are not the opinion of Open OpenHouse House, March Letters to the editor are subject to editing.
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