Open House Food Service March 2015 Issue by Creative Head Media Pty Ltd

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MARCH 2015

Chocolate with a conscience Spotlight on seafood labelling Gluten-free opportunity for growth

Bringing out the biscuits Arnott's Biscuits

CONTENTS

ON THE COVER

Iconic Aussie brand Arnott’s is kicking off celebrations for its 150th Anniversary by “Bringing out the Biscuits” and encouraging young and old to rediscover the joy of sharing a delicious moment with someone special.

Regulars 04 Editor’s note 06 News 10 In season

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FEBRUARY 2015

12 Origins Truffles 14 10 things Outrageously expensive ingredients

15 Q&A Michael Bennett, HTN Hospitality Employment Solutions

Features

32 Regional snapshot Southern Highlands, NSW

08 Cover story Arnott’s 150th anniversary

34 Cooking the books

16 Sustainability Chocolate brands show their caring side

36 Products 38 Profile Adam Swanson 39 Australian Culinary Federation news

18 Gluten-free Gluten-free menu options go mainstream 22 Coffee The rise of the machines 26 Seafood What’s in a label?

28 Cheese Putting cheese at the top

Time for a tree change? Food waste in the spotlight Breakfast goes Middle Eastern OH0215.indd 1

Rewarding you Speedibake’s new range 18/02/2015 10:30 am

To ensure you never miss out there are now more ways to enjoy Open House. As well as the monthly magazine, Open House is also available as a free iPad app, which is packed with exclusive extras. The Open House app is available at the iTunes app store.

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www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, March 2015 3

EDITOR’S WORD

Trends to watch O

ne of the perks of being the editor of Open House is that I get to attend a lot of very cool events and call it “work”.

One of the most illuminating, not to mention enjoyable, events I was lucky enough to be invited to recently was the launch of herb and spice supplier McCormick’s Flavour Forecast 2015. This annual event reveals the eight flavour trends the company’s global research, conducted by a crack international team of chefs, trend trackers, food technologists and other experts, suggests are set to hit retail and foodservice outlets in the near future. It doesn’t hurt that the event is usually held in one of Sydney’s top restaurants, in this case Tetsuya’s Restaurant. A six-course degustation menu, designed by chef Tetsuya Wakuda himself, brought many of the flavour trends alive in spectacular fashion, with courses including “Sour & Salt” (toro of ocean trout with snow salt); “Smoked spices” (braised deboned spatchcock with Dutch cream potato and Avruga); and “Umami veggies” (grilled wagyu beef with parsley root and carrot). Of course, the flavours identified in this year’s report are just as likely to end up on the side of chip packets as on fine dining menus, but it was inspiring to see how one of Australia’s top chefs interpreted them. Overall, this year’s list reflects a global demand for bolder, more intense flavour experiences, as well as showcasing new ways to elevate pantry essentials to starring roles, such as smoking spices and herbs, or pairing sour flavours such as picked ginger, sour cherry and lemon zest with salt to lend brightness and texture to dishes. It’s also interesting to note that many of the trends identified in previous flavour forecasts, such as pomegranate, sea salt, chipotle chilli and coconut water, are now mainstream in both commercial and domestic kitchens around Australia. The predictions in this year’s list may take a few years to hit those same heights of popularity, but if you’re looking for inspiration they’re well worth a look. You can find the full list of Flavour Forecast 2015 trends at www.mccormick.com.au.

Published in Australia by Creative Head Media Pty Ltd Suite 202, 80-84 Chandos Street, St Leonards 2065 P.O. Box 189, St Leonards 1590 Website: www.openhousemagazine.net ACN 147 436 280 ISSN 0312-5998

PUBLISHER Alexandra Yeomans MANAGING EDITOR Ylla Watkins JOURNALIST Sheridan Randall ACCOUNT MANAGER Leah Jensen DESIGN/PRODUCTION MANAGER Bin Zhou PRODUCTION CO-ORDINATOR Anne Esteban ADMINISTRATION ASSISTANT Kate Wilcox

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THIS MONTH’S TOP STORY Diners looking for gluten-free options on menus are making what was once a niche market mainstream, with operators set to miss out if they dismiss this eating trend as a fad. Find out more on page 18.

4 Open House, March 2015 www.openhousemagazine.net

Official publication for the Australian Culinary Federation

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INDUSTRY NEWS

Proud to be a Chef winner announced culinary placement tailored to his career goals. During the program Tucker, who works at Jupiter’s Hotel and Casino on the Gold Coast and studies at the College of Tourism and Hospitality at Tafe Brisbane, impressed with an original recipe for sous vide duck breast with crispy skin accompanied by a confit beet salad, pea puree, compressed orange segments and orange jus, a potato rosti disc and crumbed Mainland fetta.

itchell Tucker from Tugun, Queensland (pictured second left), has been named the winner of the 16th annual Fonterra Proud to be a Chef program following three days of master classes, culinary challenges and fine dining experiences in Melbourne. Tucker was recognised by the program’s chef mentors Peter Wright (pictured left), Zac Nicholson (second right) and Joe Grbac (right) as the standout finalist for 2015, taking home the major prize of an international paid

Now in its 16th year, the Fonterra Proud to be a Chef program is designed to recognise and reward the dedication and commitment of apprentice chefs, as well as assist in the continued improvement and development of culinary standards and professionalism. The 32 finalists were evaluated on the basis of their aptitude, the commitment and dedication shown during participation in the program, and their overall demonstration of passion for the culinary arts.

Fine Food Australia returns to Sydney The nation’s largest foodservice event, Fine Food Australia, returns to Sydney in 2015. Fine Food Australia is the country’s largest hospitality event, showcasing everything from specialty and bulk foods, beverages, cooking and hospitality equipment and machinery, to bakery products, coffee and emerging food trends. This year’s event will be held over four days in September at Sydney Olympic Park, and promises a line-up of new features and interactive sessions designed to help every facet of the industry make the most of their experience, according to organisers.

Minnie Constan. “We have some great new stage presentations, exhibitors and sessions planned which is a demonstration of the show’s ongoing relevance to the industry. We are committed to the ongoing evolution of this show to reflect industry needs and demands.” Fine Food Australia will be held at Sydney Showground, Sydney Olympic Park, from September 20-23, 2015.

“We can’t wait to get to Sydney to showcase the evolution of Fine Food Australia,” said event director 6 Open House, March 2015 www.openhousemagazine.net

AFR launches Australia’s Top Restaurants A new dining and awards program that is decided solely by a peer voting process has launched, with restaurateurs and chefs responsible for voting for the top restaurants in the country. The Australian Financial Review Australia’s Top Restaurants program is the only one of its kind nationally, with renowned food writers Jill Dupleix and Terry Durack the award’s inaugural directors. “With an increasing number of international chefs talking up the Australian food scene, a prestigious national restaurant awards program such as this is very timely,” Durack said. “This isn’t about celebrity chefs and media darlings, it’s about who is really raising standards and dishing up great food every single day. The results are based on the votes of 500 different chefs and restaurateurs throughout the country, which will cover a lot of ground and a lot of experience.” Compiled by a distinguished Australiawide panel of Good Food Guide editors, reviewers and industry experts, a list of 500 was released recently in the Australian Financial Review. Chefs and restaurants that appeared were then invited to vote for their top 10. Chefs must have dined at the restaurant and they cannot choose their own restaurant. The Top 100 Restaurants list will be announced and released in the Financial Review, in conjunction with the inaugural awards ceremony taking place on May 18 at Crown, Melbourne. The outcome could be surprising, according to Dupleix. “Because Australia’s Top 100 Restaurants are chosen by the chefs and restaurateurs themselves, we’re expecting an intriguingly different result to the normal awards system judged by food critics and reviewers,” she said.

NEWS BRIEFS Tasting Australia team confirmed

NSW Food Safety Strategy delivers confidence certainty and underpin confidence in the State’s food industry into the future.” The strategy was developed in line with the NSW economic development framework that identifies priorities and opportunities for the state’s $12 billion primary industries sector. Foodborne illnesses currently cost $375 million per annum in lost productivity and medical expenses. NSW Primary Industries Minister Katrina Hodgkinson has unveiled a six year plan to further enhance NSW’s reputation as a supplier of safe, quality food. “Our plan for the future, Safe Food from Paddock to Plate, aims to ensure NSW continues to deliver superior quality food locally and globally, by reducing foodborne illness at the same time as cutting red tape,” she said. “The NSW food industry operates in a competitive international market and contributes $113 billion to the NSW economy each year. “The NSW Food Safety Strategy 2015-2021 is a comprehensive strategy outlining the NSW Government’s commitment to food safety and quality management, to provide

“Through food safety and verification programs on farms, at processing facilities and training and education at the retail end, we are working hard to minimise the amount of foodborne incidents we see each year,” Hodgkinson said. “We are investing $3 million per annum into food safety research and advice on emerging food safety risks and trends across the supply chain, with a target to reduce foodborne illness 30 per cent by 2021.” “We are also delivering 24/7 online license applications to 15,000 businesses licensed with the NSW Food Authority, to ensure a quicker, more streamlined process.” The government also aims to reduce red tape, making it easier for “industry to get on with business without unnecessary burden”.

Restaurant & Catering congratulates high achievers Industry body Restaurant & Catering Australia (R&CA) has congratulated its 2014 Lifetime Achievers at a formal dinner held at Parliament House, Canberra. The Association used the opportunity to honour the outstanding contribution to the industry of Greg Doyle (NSW), Frank van Haandel (Victoria), Niño Miano (Queensland), Jim Carreker (South Australia), and Warwick Lavis (Western Australia). Adelaide-born executive chef and San Remo brand ambassador, Adam Swanson, was also named Young Achiever of the Year at the ceremony. “Adam has done a great deal to raise awareness and advance the public’s

knowledge of food through regular guest appearances on Network Ten’s Ready Steady Cook, as well as Justine Schofield’s Everyday Gourmet, Good Chef, Bad Chef and Channel Seven’s Out of the Blue,” said R&CA chief executive John Hart. “He has been a constant strong contributor to the restaurant and catering industry and serves as a role model and inspiration for other young chefs with a driving passion to succeed.” The Lifetime Achiever Program was launched by R&CA in 2003 to acknowledge those who have made a commitment to the restaurant and catering industry and to celebrate their outstanding achievements, efforts and dedication in their state and/or nationally. OH

Chef Simon Bryant and wine expert Paul Henry (pictured) will return as the creative directors of South Australia’s biennial Tasting Australia 2016 festival. Barossa Valley food personality Maggie Beer will also stay on as Tasting Australia patron. The Festival will move to an annual format from 2016. Authorities warn against wild mushrooms Health authorities in NSW have warned against eating wild mushrooms, following an unseasonal rise in wild mushroom poisonings across the State. Eating poisonous mushrooms can cause abdominal pains, nausea, vomiting and diarrhoea, and even death. New wine list awards for WA Restaurant & Catering Australia has partnered with Wines of WA to deliver the WA Wine List Awards. The focus for the inaugural Awards will be on supporting the local WA wine industry through wine list development. Nominations close on April 10. Chair of Judges named for Awards for Excellence The 2015 Savour Australia Restaurant & Catering (R&CA) Hostplus Awards for Excellence has appointed food communicator Stewart White to the role of national Chair of Judges. White has been the NSW Chair of Judges for the past two years and Chair of Judges for the R&CA Wine List awards since 2012. Melbourne Food and Wine scholarship returns The Hostplus Hospitality Scholarship, supported by the Melbourne Food and Wine festival, returns for a second year in 2015. Open to individuals aged 18-30 years from any area in hospitality, the winner will win international work experience, spending money and a year-long mentorship when they return.

www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, March 2015 7

COVER STORY

Aussie icon takes the biscuit Arnott’s is celebrating its 150th Anniversary by ”Bringing out the Biscuits”.

illions of Australians have grown up on Arnott's Biscuits and for them, Arnott's is more than a food company, it's a piece of Australia's history. Founded by William Arnott (pictured) in 1865, the name Arnott’s is synonymous with Australia’s favourite biscuits, with Aussie’s eating 537 million packs of Arnott’s Biscuits each year. The history of Arnott’s spans from humble beginnings, baking pies and ships biscuits in Newcastle. Today, there are 125 different biscuits in the Arnott’s range across household names like Shapes, Tim Tam, Vita-Weat and Cruskits and Arnott’s sweet biscuits such as Monte Carlo and Iced Vovo. Arnott’s Biscuits are found in 95 per cent of Australian households. This year, Arnott’s is embarking on a host of anniversary celebrations including new biscuit varieties, a partnership with Camp Gallipoli, collectors’ tins and a roaming biscuit bakery travelling to locations across Australia.

8 Open House, March 2015 www.openhousemagazine.net

“Arnott’s Biscuits have been an Australian family favourite for 150 years,” says Nik Scotcher, marketing director at Arnott’s Sweet Biscuits. “In 2015, we’re celebrating our history and looking towards the next 150 years with a year of new product innovation, community activities and events aimed at bringing families together over a biscuit.” Nearly all of Arnott’s Biscuits sold in the domestic market are made at one of three state-of-the-art Arnott’s bakeries – Huntingwood, New South Wales; Virginia, Queensland; and Marleston, South Australia – with Arnott’s supporting hundreds of local businesses in Australia, each year spending around $250 million purchasing raw ingredients. “Later this year, we’ll be unveiling a new look Arnott’s pack which we hope will have Aussies heading down the biscuit aisle for generations to come,” says Scotcher. OH

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IN SEASON

Nashi A

vailable right through until October, nashi are a cool weather fruit that is expected to be hot property this season. “It’s looking like being a really good season, with excellent quality fruit,” says grower Jamie Craig from Victoria’s Bunbartha Fruit Packers. “We’ve been very lucky with the weather. Nashi can suffer from sunburn if it gets too hot while they’re still on the tree, and as they are harvested ready-to-eat we also need good weather around harvest time,

so the pickers can do their job. Nashi have very sensitive skin and hot weather around harvest time can also lead them to soften, so they mark even more easily.” While marks on the skin don’t affect the eating quality, Craig suggests steering clear of fruit that smells “winey” or over-ripe, or has a rich yellow cast to its skin, as its “been on the shelf too long”. Store them at room temperature or in the fridge for a longer shelf-life. Excellent eating, due to their refreshingly

March

high juice content, nashi are also good for using in drinks, salads, cheese platters, and in baked items such as cakes and pies. “One of the key attributes of nashi is they don’t go mushy when they’re cooked, so if you’re making a flan or something like that, they will hold their shape,” says Craig. “Another good attribute to note is that they don’t go brown so that you can add them to dishes such as fruit salads ahead of serving, rather than at the last minute, like apples.” OH

April

• Apples

• Guava

• Pomegranates

• Apples

• Fennel

• Passionfruit

• Asian greens

• Kiwifruit

• Potatoes

• Asian greens

• Fuji fruit

• Pears

• Banana

• Lettuce

• Pumpkin

• Avocados

• Guava

• Persimmons

• Beans

• Limes

• Quince

• Banana

• Pomegranates

• Broccoli

• Mangosteens

• Sweetcorn

• Beans

• Imperial Mandarins

• Capsicums • Chestnuts • Cucumbers • Eggplant • Eschallots

• Nashi • Okra • Onions • Passionfruit • Pawpaw

• Tamarillo • Tomatoes • Witlof • Zucchini • Valencia oranges

• Broccoli • Brussels sprouts • Cabbage • Capsicums • Cauliflower

• Figs

• Pears

• Chestnuts

• Fiji fruit

• Plum

• Chokos

• Grapes

• Custard apples • Eschallots

10 Open House, March 2015 www.openhousemagazine.net

• Kiwifruit • Leeks • Limes • Mushrooms • Nashi • Okra

• Potatoes • Pumpkin • Quinces • Silverbeet • Spinach • Tamarillo • Turnips • Witlof

Aussie peAches Are bAck on the menu

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ORIGINS

Truffles Eye popping prices, counterfeiting and new world suppliers are just some of the chapters in the story of this ”black gold”, writes Sheridan Randall. put them back into the culinary spotlight. Until truffles then were still being unearthed in the wild, using pigs and later dogs to sniff out the good stuff. Louis XIV tried unsuccessfully to cultivate them, but it was fellow Frenchman Joseph Talon who managed to cultivate them on a mass scale in 1808. By 1890, there were 75,000 hectares of truffle-producing trees producing more than 2000 tons of truffles throughout Europe. The good times came to halt with World War I playing havoc with both the land and those that worked it. By the 1960s less than 400 tons were being produced.

ike an underground wart, truffles grow in the dark; a swollen parasite feeding from the roots of oak, hazel, poplar and beech trees. Despite such an uninspiring upbringing, truffles are a food fit for kings, queens and anyone with a healthy bank balance. Earthly gold, these swollen underground mushrooms are prized by chefs for their rich aroma, with only a few shavings lifting ordinary fare to divine heights. They are also prized by one Stanley Ho, a Macau casino owner, who forked out US$330,000 ($432,000) for a single white truffle weighing 1.5 kilograms in 2007. He should have waited as in 2014 a white truffle weighing in at 1.89 kilos was unearthed in the Umbrian region of Italy and auctioned at Sotheby’s in New York. It went for US$61,000 ($80,000) to a Taiwanese buyer.

White truffles are grown in the Piedmont region in northern Italy, while black truffles or Périgord truffles are named after the Périgord region in France. Up until recently, these countries had the truffle sector pretty much to themselves, but being one of the most expensive foods by weight, competition from other countries has heated up in recent years. French truffle growers have declared war on cheap Chinese imports, which they say are sprayed with synthetic aromas to make them smell like the real thing. Australia and New Zealand has also got into the act and have become well regarded producers of the black truffle in their own right with the southern hemisphere truffle season balancing out the northern hemisphere.

The first mention of truffles appears in the inscriptions of the neo-Sumerians regarding their Amorite enemy's eating habits in 2000BC. The ancient Egyptians ate them coated in goose fat.

Australia can now also lay claim to being a white truffle producer, with Victorian farmer and president of the Australian Truffle Growers Association, Dr Peter Stahle, growing the country’s first white truffle recently.

Truffles fell out of fashion during the Middle Ages with God faring types not so inclined to the pleasures of life, declaring truffles the creation of the devil. It was French King Louis XIV who helped

The days of cheap truffles may have ended long ago, but the expansion of supply can only be a good thing, with chefs now able to source truffles all year round. OH

12 Open House, March 2015 www.openhousemagazine.net

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TOP 10

10 outrageously expensive ingredients Prized by top chefs and discerning diners around the world, these delicacies also come with a hefty price tag, discovers Ylla Watkins. 1 Saffron The world’s most expensive spice, saffron is the dried stigmas of the purple saffron crocus. The high price tag comes from the labour involved in hand picking the stigmas and the small yield – about 170,000 flowers are required for one kilo of saffron. Fortunately a little goes a long way.

2 Shark fin Highly controversial, thanks to the unsustainable and cruel method used to remove the fins from the sharks, shark fin remains a highly sought after delicacy in Chinese cuisine and a staple for hosts wanting to impress their guests.

3 Kopi Luwak coffee Processed through the digestive tract of the

Asian Palm Civet, Kopi Luwak (or “cat poo coffee” as its colloquially known) is the world’s most expensive coffee, with aficionados praising its rich aroma and smooth, rounded flavor. Expect to pay around $4000 per kilo.

4 Edible gold For the ultimate in food bling, edible gold is made from 23-carat gold and adds an extravagant touch to desserts, chocolates, wedding cakes, and cocktails. Incredibly light and with no taste or nutritional value, it is available in a number of forms, including dust, flakes and sheets.

5 Yubari king melon A hybrid of two different melon breeds, Burpee's “spicy” Cantaloupe and Earl's Favourite, the Yubari King melon, which features orange flesh and speckled skin, commands dizzying prices. A few years ago, a pair sold for $34,000.

7 Fugu A delicacy in Japan, parts of the fugu, or puffer fish, can prove fatal if not correctly prepared. As a result only chefs who have undergone rigorous training are allowed to prepare the fish, adding to the expense of preparing it.

6 Vanilla

9 Beluga caviar Spread onto cocktail blinis or eaten on its own with a spoon, the

eggs of the rare Beluga sturgeon are highly prized and very, very expensive. Usually sold in tiny tins, the cost per kilo is around $8000.

The fruit of the vanilla orchid, vanilla is the second most expensive

8 Alba white truffles 10 Kobe beef

spice after saffron, following an extremely labour intensive growing, curing, drying and resting process – each vanilla bean is handled hundreds of times before it’s sold. Available as whole pods, powder, paste, extract and vanilla sugar, whole pods command the highest price.

14 Open House, March 2015 www.openhousemagazine.net

The most prized of all the truffle varieties, the Alba white truffle is found in the Piedmont region of Northern Italy and can sell for around $3000 per kilo. Available only in the European winter, the location of truffleproducing oak trees is a closely guarded secret.

Authentic Kobe beef, known for its large amount of fat marbling

and high price tag, comes from wagyu cows that have been bred and slaughtered in the Kobe area of Japan, however wagyu beef is now also being produced in the US, Chile and Australia. OH

Q&A

A new way to approach training Group training organisation HTN recently launched a new training program, Total Chef Aspire, which it believes is set to transform cookery skills training in Australia. Open House spoke to HTN chief executive Michael Bennett to find out more. Q: What are the biggest challenges facing the hospitality training sector?

An understanding of the industry is also important. This is not a job but a lifestyle choice and it entails a willingness to participate in learning above and beyond the standard apprenticeship training provided by the RTO.

A: There is considerable reform of the vocational training sector underway at the moment and the hospitality sector will feel the impact of these reforms as training providers reinvent themselves to adapt to a new landscape and funding regime. There are a myriad of other issues that continue to impact training and development in our sector including the introduction of adult apprentice wages, changes to apprentice incentives, and the introduction of trade loans.

Q: Is the program accredited? A: Yes, the units delivered in the Aspire program will provide credit towards articulation into an apprenticeship qualification with HTN. Q: A number of top chefs including Nino Zoccali from The Restaurant Pendolino and Colin Barker from The Boathouse on Blackwattle Bay are supporting the program. What does their support involve?

From left: HTN chief executive Michael Bennett with chefs Nino Zoccali (Pendolino and La Rosa) and Colin Barker (The Boathouse on Blackwattle Bay).

On top of all this, the lack of enthusiastic candidates willing to enter our industry remains a serious issue.

competence, with the aim of improving the overall retention and completion outcomes for culinary apprentices.

Q: Where did the idea for the Total Chef Aspire program come from?

Q: What sets it apart from other training programs in the market place?

A: HTN commissioned comprehensive research that canvassed apprentices, host businesses, our industry associations, stakeholders, government and registered training organisations such as TAFE NSW.

A: Aspire is a high end, intensive culinary program that exposes participants to leading chefs via guest lectures and master classes and prepares them to be career ready.

We wanted to really drill down to find what the industry wants and needs, and the result was the development of the Total Chef concept, with Aspire a key element in that. Q: What does HTN hope to achieve with the program? A: Aspire participants will work hard to develop solid culinary fundamentals and will be offered apprenticeship employment upon successful completion of the program in either our Professional apprenticeship stream or our Executive stream. There will be improved recruitment and selection up front, leading into Aspire – an intensive eight-week preparatory program, and then articulation into an apprenticeship under our group training model. This will feature extensive mentoring support and a focus on developing expertise, not just

Participants have exclusive access to a sophisticated e-learning platform and will start developing an e-portfolio from the outset that will show future employers the expertise developed over the life of the Total Chef program with HTN. Participants also have exclusive access to HTN online which features hundreds of culinary resources including skills videos and kitchen tips. The intensity of the skills development, along with the guaranteed apprenticeship employment with a leading kitchen upon successful completion, is what really sets this program apart from others.

A: HTN is extraordinarily fortunate to have the support of the likes of both Nino and Colin who, as highly respected chefs, are both incredibly committed to ensuring quality training opportunities for apprentices who have the drive to succeed. They also recognise that a new approach to skills development is needed so that we can establish the next generation of executive chefs. Q: What do you hope participants in the Total Chef Aspire program will walk away with at the end of the program? A: On successful graduation from Aspire, participants will have the opportunity to undertake a culinary apprenticeship within a leading kitchen.

Q: What qualities will you be looking for in applicants?

They will be supported onsite by HTN’s industry mentors throughout their apprenticeship and they will have access to master classes, tours and experiences of a kind that are very different to anything on offer.

A: I know that “passion” for food and our industry is something of a cliché, but it really does play into the selection process.

It’s an incredible opportunity and the best possible start for anyone who has the desire and capability to succeed. OH

www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, March 2015 15

SUSTAINABILITY

Cocoa photos by Sean Hawkey.

1 Fairtrade cocoa beans from Nicaragua. 2 Callebaut chocolate. 3 A freshly opened cocoa pod.

Chocolate with a conscience Chocolate is already a favourite with diners but an increasing focus on ethical sourcing and production is upping the feel-good factor, writes Ylla Watkins.

t’s not exactly a secret: chocolate is the ultimate in indulgence, guaranteed to tempt many diners into ordering dessert, even when they had no intention of partaking. Take a look at just about any dessert menu across the country, and you’ll be hard pressed to find one that doesn’t include some dark temptress whispering enticements from the page. However, International market research organisation Canadean, which recently released the results of research looking at the £5.3 billion confectionery market in the UK, suggests that consumers are increasingly open to the idea of “good” chocolate products.

sustainable world’. “Moreover, appropriate labelling, such as Fairtrade certification, [allows] consumers to enjoy a guilt-free moment of indulgence by eating a product that has been produced in an ethical and environmentally friendly manner.” Amongst those manufacturers to have already embraced the trend towards “guiltfree” sustainable chocolate is leading foodservice brand Callebaut, which shifted its entire production of Finest Belgian Chocolate to being made from sustainable cocoa in May 2012.

Canadean suggests marketers need to establish a link between chocolate and concepts such as “natural” and “sustainable”.

Callebaut’s “Growing Great Chocolate” campaign recognises customers are looking for high-quality cocoa that is purchased directly from farmer cooperatives and comes with a guarantee of sustainable cultivation.

“Chocolate can be positioned both as an indulgent treat and a ‘good’ product,” said Raquel Perez-Lopez, an analyst at Canadean. “This can be done by positioning a product around the claim of ‘creating a better and

As part of the campaign, Callebaut actively supports farmer cooperatives in learning about and adopting innovative agricultural practices, which are offered through farmer training programs in the field, and

16 Open House, March 2015 www.openhousemagazine.net

aimed at improving crop yield and quality. As such the company is able to ensure sustainable cocoa cultivation and help to boost farmers’ livelihoods. “Cocoa farmers and their families in West Africa are confronted with serious challenges,” says Gary Willis, national sales and marketing manager – chocolate division at F.Mayer, which distributes Callebaut in Australia. “Aging farms, declining yields, lack of good planting material, insufficient farm management skills and practices, lack of education for children, and lack of safe water and health services. “The Callebaut brand aims to combat these challenges and threats, enable farmers to improve the productivity of their farms and increase their incomes, and help to provide education and basic health services to increase the overall quality of life in farming communities.” Other major chocolate suppliers to switch to sustainable cocoa include French company Valrhona, Nestlé Australia and global giant

Cadbury’s, which uses Fairtrade chocolate. Fairtrade is arguably the best-known sustainability program working towards creating a more sustainable future for cocoa farmers. In 2013-2014 there were 2500 Fairtrade Certified Products available in Australia and New Zealand, of which 54 per cent were cocoa products.

Female cocoa farmers share their experiences Fairtrade is supporting a program to help strengthen women's role in cocoa-producing communities. Female members of Ecookim, a Fairtrade certified cocoa cooperative in the Ivory Coast, are stepping up to share their stories on film, appearing in, producing and directing a short film. Researchers from KIT, a research institute from the Netherlands, trained 25 women in how to use microphones and cameras, before the women returned to their own villages to record their films.

“We saw our first big jump in growth when Cadbury’s decided to become Fairtrade in 2010,” says Molly Harriss Olson, chief executive of Fairtrade ANZ. “Since then there has been a fantastic and consistent conversion to Fairtrade chocolate. Over 10 per cent a year.” As part of the Fairtrade program, farmers within the system receive a price which covers the cost of sustainable production, known as the Fairtrade Minimum Price, and communities also receive a Fairtrade Premium, which producer organisations can invest in community projects such as hospitals and schools. The demand for Fairtrade chocolate is coming from both consumers and manufacturers, believes Harriss Olson. “Consumers are much more savvy about what’s happening in the world than

The final film captures the challenges faced by women who work hard to produce cocoa but see little of the direct benefit from sales. The film will be used to spark discussion and debate on gender issues with other cooperatives across Africa. Watch the video in the Open House iPad app.

they used to be. But it’s also true that various companies such as Whittakers and Cadbury’s understand that [creating a better deal for farmers] is a long term challenge they need community partners to help deal with.”

What’s more, it seems consumers are

Good news for business owners is that with the current high market price cocoa is commanding, there is little or no price differential between sustainable chocolate and chocolate made from traditionally sourced cocoa to affect your bottom line.

increase of 10 per cent since 2011.

prepared to pay extra for ethically produced food, according to Neilsen data published late last year. On average, 55 per cent of consumers said they were prepared to pay more, a 5 per cent rise on 2013 and an Either way, making the switch to sustainable chocolate and promoting it on menus could be considered your "good" turn for the day.

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www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, March 2015 17 9/03/2015 12:52 pm

GLUTEN-FREE

Going mainstream Diners looking for gluten-free options are making what was once a niche market mainstream, with operators set to lose out if they dismiss this eating trend, writes Sheridan Randall.

ood fads, how they come and go. It seems there always has to be one food group that plays the part of the villain – fat, carbs, sugar, and now gluten (the protein in some cereals such as wheat, barley or rye). For foodservice operators diners looking for gluten-free options used to be seen as at best an inconvenience and at worst something to be ignored. That balance of power has shifted dramatically in recent years, with the glutenfree eating phenomenon now presenting a real opportunity for sales growth. In many Western countries including the US, UK and Australia the number of diners looking for gluten-free menu options across all sectors of foodservice have rocketed. Recent research by Technomic shows that most consumers want restaurants to be more

transparent about menu-item ingredients, with its latest Healthy Eating Consumer Trend Report showing approximately one in four Millennials (18-35 year olds) expects to purchase gluten-free packaged items more often. The report also shows that 62 per cent of consumers believe restaurants can offer food that is both healthy and tasty. The gluten-free market has seen dramatic growth over the past decade and its size is expected to double in the next 10 years, with the world market for gluten-free foods predicted to reach US$3.91 billion ($5.13 billion) in 2015, according to UK-based researcher Visiongain’s latest report, GlutenFree Foods Market Forecast 2015-2025: Opportunities for Leading Companies. In the US, the appeal of gluten-free

18 Open House, March 2015 www.openhousemagazine.net

foods is continuing, with sales of glutenfree products in traditionally grain-based categories posting a compound annual growth rate of 34 per cent over the five-year period to 2014. However, the rise in demand for gluten-free menu options is being driven by health issues rather than medical needs. For this reason its important to understand the difference between those people who avoid gluten and those who cannot eat gluten for medical reasons – the one in 70 Australians diagnosed with Celiac disease. Coeliac disease is not an allergy, as some people mistakenly think, although it involves an immune system response to foods containing gluten. For those suffering from Coeliac disease, gluten is not just

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Tools for a gluten-free kitchen

intention of being completely gluten-free, as well as other intolerances friendly, such as lactose and fructose,” Metz says.

Nestlé Professional has released a new Gluten Free Toolkit to help foodservice operators navigate the world of gluten-free cooking and make the most of this growing trend. The Gluten Free Toolkit provides chefs with an overview of the challenges, with information on understand coeliac disease and gluten-free diets, identifying gluten-free products, planning a gluten-free menu and avoiding gluten cross-contamination.

“To me the real decider was when I started telling people about what intolerances I had, and everyone knew someone who was the same. There was obviously a market for it.”

To request a copy of the Gluten Free Toolkit visit www.nestleprofessional.com.

“Our whole point is not to imitate the foods you can’t have but to celebrate the foods you can have,” she adds.

something to cut down on, it is something to be avoided altogether, with even the slightest trace of it causing symptoms such as upset gut, fatigue, anaemia and weight loss. This makes it vital for foodservice operators to understand the steps needed to classify a menu item as both gluten-free and safe for those with Coeliac disease. Something as simple as sharing a chopping board or toaster can cause a reaction. All the big players in the foodservice industry have taken note of this growing trend, with Sanitarium developing its Gluten-free Weet-Bix from concept to shelf in a record time of six months, and fast food chain McDonald’s working with Coeliac Australia towards gluten-free accreditation of three McCafé in Rutherford, Singleton and Greta (all in New South Wales). The Coeliac Australia Gluten-free Accreditation Program aims to establish a “gold standard” for gluten-free food preparation to ensure all gluten-free consumers can eat with confidence outside the home at accredited businesses. The process included an onsite compliance audit covering all stages of food delivery; from sourcing gluten-free supplies, preparation of

When Metz opened the café she vowed not to have anything on the menu that was inferior to the non gluten-free version.

The payoff worked as the response from diners has been “fantastic”, with locals treating it as their regular café and other Melburnians making the weekend trek for their gluten-free breakfast.

food, procedures and staff training, through to serving the gluten-free meal. “Coeliac Australia Gluten-free Accreditation means that people will be able to eat with confidence and identify at a glance which food service outlets offer safe gluten-free options,” says Tom McLeod, president of Coeliac Australia.

Metz also promised herself on opening that she wouldn’t include a risotto or steak option on the menu “because when you are gluten-free you get so used to them being the only things you can eat when you go out, and can get a bit sick of it”.

“Most of all they will have the peace of mind that the participating outlet has a commitment to the gluten-free consumer.” The three McCafé outlets will be the first foodservice businesses in Australia eligible to use the Coeliac Australia Gluten-free trademark on their gluten-free menu options. For franchisee owner Denise McKeough the move is an exciting one both on a personal and professional level. “As a coeliac myself, I am passionate about offering safe gluten-free options that are affordable and actually taste great,” she says. Robyn Metz, owner of Melbourne’s Red Robyn Café, is also a passionate advocate of food that can eaten by all those with glutenfree needs, being gluten intolerant herself. “We opened (three years ago) with the

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Instead diners can look forward to dishes such as salmon rosti with wilted spinach, house cured salmon, haloumi or goat’s cheese and a homemade salsa verde; poached chicken and vermicelli Vietnamese salad; and smoked duck or pork belly tacos. Options such as poached eggs or fetta can be added. “The way we differ from a lot of cafes is our base dish will be vegan and be slightly cheaper than other cafes but then we have the option of adding things,” she says. “A lot of places take advantage of dietary requirements because they feel they have an inbuilt audience, but we feel you should be able to enjoy it whether you are glutenfree or not. We are a café that serves great food that just happens to be gluten-free.” OH

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Poached salmon in a spiced broth with Chinese broccoli Serves 10 315ml water 18g Maggi Chicken Flavoured Booster Gluten-free 315ml dry sherry 150ml gluten-free fish sauce

Cover and bake for 6 minutes. Meanwhile, separate the leaves and stems from the Chinese broccoli. Cut the stems and leaves in half lengthways and blanch in boiling water 2-3 minutes. Drain well. Serve salmon

with strained broth and Chinese broccoli, garnished with thinly sliced shallots and coriander leaves plus a side of steamed rice. Recipe courtesy of Nestlé Professional.

100g palm sugar, finely grated 2 strips orange peel 2 star anise 1 cinnamon stick 1 tsp fennel seeds 25g fresh ginger, sliced thinly 10 x 150g salmon fillet steaks 5 bunches Chinese broccoli Preheat oven to 180°C. Combine water, Maggi Chicken Booster, sherry, fish sauce, palm sugar, orange peel, star anise, cinnamon, fennel and ginger. Bring to the boil; reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Place salmon portions in a greased roasting tray and gently pour the stock over the fish.

See more recipes in the Open House iPad app.

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COFFEE

Schibello Caffé’s Research & Development – Roasting · Laboratory.

Man vs machine Espresso machines have been long held as the pinnacle of coffee making, but automated coffee machines have been narrowing the lead with those looking for consistency, discovers Sheridan Randall.

offee has become synonymous with bearded and tattooed baristas working an espresso machine, against a backdrop of grinding beans and hissing steam. That works very well for the many cafés across Australia whose main trade is a good brew. But for restaurants and offsite venues the reality may be quite different. Having enough staff to cover both the front of house and make coffee when it’s needed just simply isn’t viable for many, with some high end names in the restaurant world switching to pod machines instead. Sydney's Tetsuya Wakuda and Melbourne's Shannon Bennett from three-hat Vue de Monde partnered with Nespresso as “culinary ambassadors” in 2013, joining the likes of fellow global ambassadors Heston Blumenthal, Phil Howard and Mauro Colagreco. Tetsuya’s serves Nespresso to its diners and Bennett using the pod machines at events. Cecconi's in Melbourne and Sydney's Buon Ricordo and Papi Chulo have also installed Nespresso machines at their establishments. Globally, more than 700 Michelin Starred restaurants now serve Nespresso coffee. When so much in the food and beverage world is about provenance and the role of the artisan in the food chain, going automatic may seem contrary. However, pod machines offer something that espresso machines can’t – a consistent and quality brew no matter who makes it. 22 Open House, March 2015 www.openhousemagazine.net

Natalie Kollar, operations manager at Coffee Works Express, says that it is vital to understand the needs of a venue before picking a suitable machine. “We would ask where the machine is being placed, how many cups of coffee they do a day, whether it is a boardroom, back of house or in the front of house and whether there are trained staff on site,” she says. “Cafes and restaurants are built on consistency and repeat business where people know what they are going to get. We are creatures of habit after all. It really depends on the environment. In hotels, restaurants and clubs automatic machines are better – it’s a no brainer. But if they want latte art and a more traditional experience then an espresso machine is the way.” Craig Simon, award winning barista and founder of Think Tank Coffee, says venue operators need to ask themselves “what do I want to serve?” “It depends if you want to have a coffee experience or a functional coffee,” he says. “Ideally I would want to serve a coffee experience, which is going to require trained staff and an espresso machine. If I didn’t want to invest in training then a pod machine or automatic machine gives a more consistent and functional coffee experience.” Simon laments the practice of some operators who use espresso

machines while not training their staff in the art of coffee making. “All of the places that serve the best coffee have highly skilled and trained staff and training orientated programs in place to make sure the staff are consistent and high quality,” he says. Think Tank Coffee offers a variety of barista training courses in Melbourne’s Abbotsford, ranging from basic through to advanced. “The basic course is geared at the fundamentals of coffee but the advanced is more about the fine details that are really focused on maximum control of extraction and how a grinder works,” he says. “The introductory course is understanding what you do and the advanced course is understanding why you do it.” Sydney’s Schibello Caffé has also launched a new Research & Development – Roasting · Laboratory featuring a state of the art coffee training academy coupled with an on-site espresso bar for baristas to put their knowledge into practice, as well as a dedicated roasting laboratory. As pioneers of Italian espresso in Australia, launching 15 years ago, Schibello Caffé co-founder Ross Schinella knows the importance of training aspiring baristas with the knowledge and passion of the art of espresso. “In training a barista, it is very important to train them on both (automated and hand drawn),” says Schinella. “I think the automatic feature is great for efficiency and consistency at high pace, whereas hand drawn is good for experimenting with coffee. However, a true barista should be able to do both. It is essential for a barista to know how to make a prefect shot of espresso with or without the help of a computer. Of course in a commercial setting automated extraction can optimised the result, but coffee making is an art after all, and human touch is always the key to any art.” OH

Coffee competition winners

Coffee company Grinders Coffee took out top honours at the Sydney Royal Summer Fine Food – Coffee Competition in February, with its Grinders Coffee Ethiopian Yirgacheffe winning Champion Espresso. The Melbourne-based roaster also took home a further three medals including one Silver and two Bronze. Another competition highlight was Sydney exhibitor The Coffee Roaster (NSW) winning Champion Plunger Coffee for its Sumatran Blue Batak. The company also received an additional five Bronze medals for some of their other signature blends across both the plunger and espresso coffee classes. This year, 23 judges sampled their way through a record 281 entries, scoring them on criteria including aroma, taste, body and visual appearance. Four baristas served up about 50 coffees a day to each judge – a total of 2300 cups in two days. Competition chief judge Paul Mannassis said he was delighted with the high standard of entries across the competition. “Winning a Sydney Royal medal gives exhibitors the opportunity to brand their product with a prestigious Champion, Gold, Silver or Bronze medal, something coffee lovers can look for when purchasing their products to distinguish awarded entries from their competitors,” he said.

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SEAFOOD

1, 2, 3 Restaurants are currently exempt from country of origin labelling for cooked or prepared food.

What’s in a label? Country of origin labelling requirements for seafood served in restaurants is under discussion again following recent unrelated food safety breaches, writes Ylla Watkins.

he recent contamination and recall of a number of Nanna's and Creative Gourmet frozen berry products sourced and packed in China, which saw at least 18 Australians contract hepatitis A after eating them, has

focused attention on “confusing” country of origin labelling, with the Federal government now considering changing the rules for the way a product’s country of origin is defined and labelled. In light of the contamination

controversy, as well as an incidence of scromboid poisoning at a Sydney cafe linked to imported tuna, Greenpeace has reiterated its calls for reforms to seafood labelling, which it is championing through its “label

Chefs unite to Save the Oceans Twenty chefs from some of the world’s best restaurants have publically confirmed their commitment to Oceana’s global campaign, “Save the Oceans: Feed the World”, at a launch in San Sebastian, Spain. Hosted by chefs Andoni Luiz Aduriz of Mugaritz and Joan Roca of El Celler de Can Roca, Spain, chefs included Ferran Adrià (elBulli Foundation, Spain); Massimo Bottura (Osteria Francescana, Italy); Alex Atala (D.O.M., Brazil); Juan Mari and Elena Arzak (Arzak, Spain), Grant Achatz (Alinea, USA); Brett Graham (The Ledbury, UK); and Gastón Acurio (Astrid y Gastón, Peru). Oceana is campaigning worldwide to save the oceans from unsustainable fishing practices. “We are incredibly grateful that so many culinary superstars are coming together to announce their support for policy change that can help to restore the world’s oceans,” said Oceana CEO, Andrew Sharpless. “We believe they can help to make a huge difference for Oceana’s campaigns and the hundreds of millions of people who depend on the world’s oceans for their sustenance.” The event featured the premiere screening of a new short film documentary, The Perfect Protein, featuring the chefs discussing their support of ocean conservation and passion for the sea and its seafood. Watch the video in the Open House iPad app.

26 Open House, March 2015 www.openhousemagazine.net

my fish” campaign. “Accurate, informative seafood labelling is essential for public health protection, consumer welfare, comprehensive seafood chain-of-custody, promotion of sustainable fisheries, and food security,” the group said in a statement earlier this month. Of particular concern to the conservation group is seeing specific species named (as opposed to being just listed as “fish”) as well as its country of origin, with restaurant and takeaway menus coming in for particular attention. Country of origin labelling for seafood has been under discussion for some time, with the Rural and Regional Affairs and Transport Legislation Committee recommending late last year that the foodservice sector’s current exemption from country of origin labelling for cooked or prepared seafood should be removed.

“At a time when government should be making it easier for small business to do business, the Committee has recommended changes that would only serve to increase administrative red tape,” said R&CA chief executive John Hart. “Mandatory country of origin labelling would limit the flexibility of operators to source produce based on price, seasonality, quality, menu design, and supplier relationships. Each time an operator is forced to source a different product, menus would need to be updated and re-printed. “No consideration has been given to compliance requirements; what records would businesses need to keep and for how long? Such requirements are time and money to business owners.” Senator Nick Xenophon’s additional comments calling for a mandatory standard for fish names add a further layer of complexity, according to Hart. “Adding species names to menus assumes consumers have detailed knowledge of the various fish species and their vulnerability to make an informed purchased decision. The requirement would see menus read more like books, and diners having to carry a detailed typology to understand what their purchasing decision means for that fish species.” The proposed changes are reminiscent of component pricing legislation that resulted in cafes, restaurants, and bistro operators having to print separate menus displaying weekend and Public Holiday surcharges, he added. “Analysis completed by R&CA

then revealed the cost of such a measure ranged from $8,000$10,000 per business,” Hart said.

labelling rules relating to country of origin will do nothing to improve consumer safety.

Norman Grant, executive chairman of the Seafood Importers Association of Australasia, backs the association’s stance.

“While [the government’s] proposals relate to the origin of products, they do nothing to address the adequacy of safety testing regimes,” she said. “The origin of goods is not a proxy for consumer safety.

“What we’re saying to government is that it’s not that we oppose country of origin labelling per se,” he said. “But there are problems with it. It’s not just a piece of chalk on a blackboard as the Senator says. The legislation is almost certain to say that wherever an offer is made you would have to identify it, so that would include menus, signage, and advertising. “If you were buying barramundi from Australia through the local season and that finished, and then you went to barramundi from Thailand, and then barramundi from Vietnam, someone would have to track that, have some sort of archive of information to verify it, and then transfer that information to menus every single time you made a change. That’s going to result in an enormous cost to restaurants, and it’s going to be a waste of time because one word on a menu is not going to inform consumers about anything. “The issue is so open to misinterpretation it won’t work and will just confuse people. For instance, they are arguing about the definition of ‘country of origin’. What happens if it’s a piece of Australian seafood and it goes up to Thailand to be crumbed, and then is sent back? It may still say it’s Australian, but is that going to satisfy anyone? “Yes, it’s the consumer’s right to know where their food is coming from, but there was a huge review of food labelling about five years ago and it said quite specifically that is should not be used as a surrogate for food safety.” Kate Carnell, chief executive of the Australian Chamber of Commerce and Industry, agrees that changing the product

“If we are not careful, we will end up with multiple, inconsistent systems for determining a product’s country of origin, leading to extra costs for business and consumers but no better outcome on product safety. “Australia has wisely in the past sought to apply international standards and mutual recognition schemes, reducing costs for Australian businesses and consumers. Any move to break away would be a mistake, creating additional compliance burdens in a kneejerk reaction to a food safety issue. “In an era of global supply chains

and inputs sourced from multiple places, determining the country of origin is no easy thing. Under the international rules, the key factor in determining where a product is made is where it undertakes it ‘last substantial transformation’. This is the process by which Swiss chocolates can be called Swiss even though Switzerland has no cocoa trees. “Under these rules products with inputs from multiple places that are brought together in Australia are labelled as ‘Australian’ internationally. If we move away from this system, those very same products might not be labelled as ‘Australian’ in their home market.” Grant suggests another solution for diners who’d like to know where their seafood is coming from. “There is already a remedy in place, and that is, when you go to a restaurant, you simply ask,” he said. “You’re far more likely to get a more comprehensive answer than from a one word label on a menu.” OH

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Peak industry body Restuarant & Catering Australia (R&CA) has been vocal in its opposition to the recommendation, saying that the introduction of mandatory country of origin labelling for seafood on restaurant menus will increase administrative red tape and compliance costs for hospitality businesses.

www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, March 2015 27

CHEESE

The big cheese Cheese is often on the bottom of the menu as an afterthought to desserts, but at many venues cheese is beginning to get the attention it deserves, discovers Sheridan Randall.

heese is on the menu again. It actually never left; it simply got pushed to the bottom in the pecking order, but now some restaurants and bars are putting it back into the spotlight. The Bridge Room in Sydney, for example, offers a changing cheese selection featuring the likes of Victoria’s Holy Goat Brigid’s Well, made from organic goat’s milk, Queso Valdeon, a blue cheese from Spain that is wrapped in sycamore or chestnut leaves, and Cabot Clothbound Cheddar from the US. It also likes to feature cheese in its

desserts with the likes of comte custard, apple, dried blueberries, figs, burnt nectarine. Sydney bistro Vincent's brings out its baked comte custard at special events, while its baked cantal soufflé uses hard cow's milk cheese from the south-west of France. The restaurant also has its own purpose-built cheese-ripening room ensuring that the cheeses on offer are also at peak perfection when served. For those looking to get a nose ahead in the cheese game Chefs at The Cow is the

28 Open House, March 2015 www.openhousemagazine.net

perfect place to start. A monthly dinner event held at Melbourne fromagerie Milk the Cow, chefs are allowed to roam free in its five metre cheese cabinet to come up with a four course menu featuring the hero ingredient of cheese. Previous participants include the likes of Daniel Wilson (Huxtable), Andrew Logan (Mamasita), Jason Jones (B’stilla), Ben Higgs (Wild Oak Restaurant & Cooking School), Christy Tania (Om Nom Dessert Bar at The Adelphi), Joseph Vargetto (Mister Bianco), Adrian

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Li (Saigon Sally), Vanessa Mateus (Pope Joan) and Peter Gunn (IDES). “In Melbourne, being a big food hub, everyone is trying something new and different, so we thought why not try and educate Melburnians on what you can do with cheese,” says Milk the Cow cheesemonger Laura Lown. “Most people will see cheese on a dessert menu but not incorporate it into main dishes and starters. So we thought why not encourage Melbourne’s best chefs to come in and have the opportunity to work with

products that are a little bit different.”

what that dish is about.

Cheeses such as chevre [goats cheese] and mozzarella get plenty of mileage on many menus as they are easy to work with, but Lown wants to see chefs get out of their comfort zone a little and start being more adventurous with their choices.

“Some chefs have a pretty good idea, but again they go towards those classic cheeses, so we try to encourage them to use something a little bit different but still be able to create what it is they are looking for.”

“Before we even create the menu we get the chefs to come in and go through a brief menu of what they would like to cook up with the cheeses they think will work in terms of complementing certain ingredients in that dish. Also looking at textures and

The Cheese Market’s Carmelo Ocello’s beginners guide to cheese • Do venues ideally need their own fromagerie to ripen cheese? We recommended you develop a good relationship with your cheesemonger and they will advise the ripest of cheeses. • What cheeses are the hardiest when it comes to storage and handling? All cheese styles have their challenges when it comes to storage but what’s important is that fresh cheeses are kept in water and hard, blue and soft cheeses are tightly wrapped in wax paper and kept in a cool, dry and clean place in the fridge. • What are the worst things you can do? Not wrapping the cheese and leaving in the fridge uncovered. The fridge will dry out the cheese and there will be wastage. • Does cheese need to be served at room temperature? Yes, the cheese need to be set aside at least 40 minutes before serving. This will allow the flavour and texture of the cheese to be intensified.

The chefs then go away with a sample of the cheeses to play with back in their kitchens before delivering a four course degustation paired with matched wines. Milk the Cow takes the same approach with venues that are looking to dip a toe in the cheese world. “With the restaurants that we supply to, rather than just give them four random cheeses, I always sit down with them and find out what their menu is about,” Lown says. Lown also wants to see cheese on display rather than hidden at the bottom of the menu. “What we are working on right now is to get some fridges into restaurants, get the cheese on display and make a bit more of deal about them,” she says. “We have a cheese called Speziato which is washed in truffles, cinnamon, nutmeg and chocolate. On a page people are like ‘what the hell is that?’ but customers eat with their eyes, so why not show it and have a description of it saying where it is from and how it made?” Carmelo Ocello, founder of Cheese Market, the wholesale division of Ocello Formaggi in Sydney, has up to 500 cheeses on its list, catering primarily to high end restaurants. However, the market seems to be broadening, according to Ocello.

• If a venue wanted to dip a toe in the cheese world, what would you recommend to start off with? We would recommend cheeses that are in season, cheeses that are easy to portion for cheese plates, and easy to store.

“We are seeing more restaurants, even in the middle market, wanting to offer interesting things for their customers,” he says. The days of restaurants wheeling around the cheese trolley are a thing of the past, due as much to limited storage space as much as culinary fashion.

It’s the little things that count! In foodservice it’s the small things you do for your customers that make a big difference! That’s why the Peppermint TIC TAC Pillow Packs (four mints per pack) are the ideal complimentary mint for hotel guests, conference attendees, restaurant & cafe patrons and airline passengers. They’re simply the perfect refreshment that adds a little something extra to every occasion. For sales enquires contact Ferrero Foodservice on 1800 199 183 or visit www.ferrero.com.au/foodservice/tictac

30 Open House, 2015 www.openhousemagazine.net ARM0624 Tic Tac_OHMarch 60 x 210.indd 1

15/04/14 2:24 PM

cheese shops doing all the work.

Champion cheeses The Heritage Burnie’s Heidi Farm Raclette has taken out top honours at the 2015 Sydney Royal Cheese & Dairy Produce Show, winning the coveted Champion Cheese of Show award. The cheese also took home the Champion Specialty Cheese and Champion Bovine Cheese awards. Chair of judges, Mark Livermore, said he was delighted with the high standard of entries across the competition, which saw 19 Championships, 153 Gold medals and 393 Silver medals awarded over four days of judging. “The quality across all cheese classes this year was outstanding, which made selecting one Champion of Show a particularly difficult process.” Five cheeses were also selected for the esteemed Australian Cheeseboard Perpetual Trophy, which gives cheese aficionados a one-stop-shop for the ultimate cheeseboard selection: Bega Cheese – Rindless Cheddar Cheese-Sweet Recipe; The Heritage Burnie – Heidi Farm Raclette; King Island Dairy – Discovery Ash Brie; Meredith Dairy Pty Ltd – Chevre Goats Cheese with Fresh Dill; and Berrys Creek Gourmet Cheese – Tarwin Blue.

“The reason why restaurants are not wanting to go down that road is because it means they need to be stocked up with cheeses and they have to care for the cheeses, and they can’t afford that much time.

make it last for the week. They wouldn’t have to have their own cheese fridge, just a really nice clean area in their fridge, away from meats or other things that can infiltrate the cheese and affect its flavour.”

“It’s rare today for a restaurant to buy big wheels of cheese. They buy it fresh and

Buying on a weekly basis cuts down the time and energy needed by chefs, with

“We clean our cheeses once a week,” Ocello says. “They are turned and cared for and are maturing in a temperature regulated cool room. We don’t send out anything that the restaurants won’t be happy with.” With so many cheeses on the list, the hardest part for many chefs is actually choosing the right ones. “They can get overwhelmed, so they come to the shop and try certain things they are interested in,” he says. “Or we can give them things we think are interesting. What we have to consider with restaurants is we can’t give them a big runny brie as that will be very difficult for them to handle. We give them smaller portions, and make sure they are still very good cheeses that they can plate without much wastage.” Cheese appreciation has matured in Australia since the business started around 14 years ago, says Ocello. But the best way to get the best cheeses for your menu is to talk with an expert, he advises. “Like anything, if you want to have a great cheeseboard you have to develop that trust relationship with your fromagerie,” he says. OH

ANTIPASTO Our chargrilled products are put on the grill, watched and turned by hand, for a consistent and tasty result. Everything we do is designed to produce the taste, texture and experience of home made antipasto. COOKING WINES Compared to table wines our cooking wines are VERY COST EFFECTIVE BEING GST AND WET TAX FREE. Available via your foodservice distributor, Elegre cooking wines are packed in a 15 litre cask. Manufactured locally using 100% highest quality Australian grown grapes.

ELEGRE PTY LTD Unit 2/150 Bungaree Road, Pendle Hill, 2145 T 02 9631 6111 F 02 9631 6222 www.elegre.com.au

www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, March 2015 31

REGIONAL SNAPSHOT

Photo by James Horan/Destination NSW.

1 Jamie Oliver with Dr Noel Arrold outside the mushroom tunnel in Mittagong. 2 The Southern Highlands in Autumn. 3 Cows at Small Cow Farm Cheese.

Southern Highlands, NSW Just 90 minutes drive south of Sydney, the Southern Highlands is a world apart when it comes to its fresh, seasonal produce, writes Ylla Watkins.

rom award winning dairy products to plump berries, aromatic black perigord truffles and exotic mushrooms grown in an otherwise disused railway tunnel in Mittagong, the Southern Highlands region of New South Wales grows a wide range of well-regarded produce, as well as cool climate wines, making it a haven for chefs and foodies alike.

a five-course Calabrase style lunch at Tre Porcellini, a 200-acre farm which is home to a herd of rare breed English large black pigs, rare breed Wiltshire Horn sheep, Angus cattle and Alpacas.

On show next month when the Flavours of Easter festival, organised by the Highland Foodie Group, kicks off, visitors to the region will be able to enjoy events ranging from tours of the Li-sun Exotic Mushroom Tunnel to Pate & Pinot @ Bousaada and

Around 80 per cent of Viles’ menu is locally sourced, depending on the season. The restaurant also has its own extensive vegetable and herb garden, as well as a duck and yabby-filled pond.

For James Viles, chef and director of the two hatted Biota Dining & Rooms in Bowral, the seasonal diversity of the Southern Highlands is the region’s key attraction.

“The Southern Highlands is a cool climate

32 Open House, March 2015 www.openhousemagazine.net

region that is great for growing all year round,” he says. “It gives us a constant supply of varied ingredients.” Last year UK chef Jamie Oliver declared himself a fan, after a visit to the region during which he toured Li-Sun Exotic Mushrooms’ tunnels with founder Dr Noel Arrold, and enjoyed lunch at Biota Dining. “I've been to Sydney and NSW many times now, but I’ve never visited the Southern Highlands,” he said. “What an amazing place! Local makers and beautiful fresh produce everywhere you look. The people are so passionate about their food and wine – I found it really inspiring.”

DIARY DATES

VIEW FROM THE KITCHEN

Orange F.O.O.D Week April 10 - 19, 2015

Now in its 24th year, Orange F.O.O.D (Food of Orange District) Week, showcases the diversity of produce and talent in the region. Festival highlights include The F.O.O.D Week 100-Mile Dinner, the Sunday Producers Market and Brunch, and Forage, a 3.6km walk with tasting stations along the way. www.orangefoodweek.com.au

Photo by Jason Loucas/Biota Dining.

Barossa Vintage Festival April 15-19, 2015

James Viles, chef and director, Biota Dining

Ingredient you couldn’t live without: I can’t live without eggs, salt and anything green.

2 3

Most overrated ingredient: Truffle oil.

Favourite farmers market: Pyrmont Growers' Market in Sydney. It’s a great market with great producers in a great space. It also has regular guest chef appearances to inspire market-goers.

Culinary inspiration: I take inspiration from many forms. I love the work of Marc Veyrant as a chef and I get great inspiration from botanical journals.

6 7

Food heroes: Thomas Keller and Marc Veyrant. Best kitchen advice you’ve been given: Work hard, play hard and hurry up! OH

Australia’s longest running wine festival, the Barossa Vintage Festival celebrates the rich heritage and gastronomic pleasures of this South Australia region. Featuring 95 events over five days, highlights include an exclusive wine auction featuring the Barossa’s most distinguished wineries. www.barossavintagefestival.com.au

Daylesford Macedon Produce Harvest Week Festival April 25 - May 3, 2015

Guilty food pleasure: Bread... And pasta... So bad, but so good. 1

The annual Daylesford Macedon Produce Harvest Week Festival showcases unique product from the region’s best growers, provedores, chefs, restaurateurs and vignerons. Sign up for a hands-on class, sample regional tasting plates or visit farm gates throughout the region. www.dmproduce.com.au/harvest-week-festival

www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, March 2015 33

COOKING THE BOOKS

Simple luxury Venice is famous for its canals and waterways, but exploring its simple, elegant contemporary cuisine is just as exciting, according to Katie and Giancarlo Caldesi, owners of London’s Caffe Caldesi. 30g toasted flaked (slivered) almonds 30g smoked cheese such as ricotta, scamorza or smoked Cheddar, coarsely grated For the filling heat the milk in a medium saucepan over a medium heat, whisk in the flour and continue whisking over the heat until thick and any lumps have disappeared. Turn the heat to low and add the cheeses, season and whisk through. Take the pan off the heat and whisk in the egg yolks. Taste and adjust the seasoning as necessary, allow to cool to room temperature. Prepare and fill the pasta using 10g of filling per raviolo and using a 6cm cutter or wine glass to cut the pasta.

Raffioli de Herbe (Cheese filled ravioli in saffron and herb sauce) Serves: 4 as a main or 6 as a starter

his is a stunning dish to serve. The plump ravioli are filled with three kinds of cheese, bathed in glorious saffron sauce and decorated with aromatic leaves. The recipe is an adaption of the original by the Anonimo Veneziano, created by Sergio and Mario at the restaurant Bistrot de Venise where it forms part of their historical Venetian menu. 1 quantity fresh pasta For the filling 200ml milk

Salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 egg yolks For the sauce 50g salted butter 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 2 celery stalk with leaves, chopped 2 leeks, chopped 1 litre chicken stock 1 heaped tsp grated fresh ginger

To assemble the dish, melt the butter in a frying pan and add the herbs. Fry them for around 2 minutes, take off the heat and set aside. Bring to the boil a large saucepan of well-salted water and cook the ravioli for around 5 minutes or until al dente. Reheat the sauce in a large saucepan and add the drained pasta to it. Arrange the ravioli on each plate with a little of the sauce poured over the top. Drizzle the herby butter around the plate. Scatter over the flaked almonds and grated cheese, then stand back and admire your work!

½ tsp saffron Salt and freshly ground black pepper

50g ‘00’ flour

To serve

100g cheese such as pecorino, fontina or asiago

50g salted butter

60g soft goats’ cheese

Large handful of aromatic leaves such as rosemary, thyme, sage or marjoram

50g Parmesan or grana padano, finely grated

To make the sauce, in a large frying pan heat the butter and oil and fry the celery and leeks over a medium heat until softened. Add the stock, ginger, saffron and seasoning, turn up the heat and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for 15 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning as necessary. Purée the sauce in a blender and set aside.

34 Open House, March 2015 www.openhousemagazine.net

This is an edited recipe and image from Venice by Katie and Giancarlo Caldesi (Hardie Grant Books, $45).

What’s on shelf this month? Anatolia

Made in Italy

A book about a cook

by Somer Sivrioglu and David Dale Murdoch Books, $79.99

by Silvia Colluca Lantern, $49.99

by Glenn Austin $20 plus postage cassandra@casstronomy.info

Sydney chef Somer Sivrioglu teams up with food scholar David Dale to explain the traditions and diversity of Turkish cuisine, from dishes fit for the Sultans of the Ottoman Empire to modern day street snacks, and everything in between. While there is plenty to inspire amongst the savoury dishes, it’s particularly hard to go past sweet treats such as saffron-layered rice pudding, strawberry and rose snow cones, and of course freshly made Turkish delight.

Italian-born Silvia Colluca is a self-taught cook with a flair for authentic, rustic home-style cooking that’s ideal for the cooler months. Here she returns to her roots, reuniting with friends and family to celebrate Italy’s incredible array of fresh, local produce, its marked regional variations and how this affects the local cuisine. Combined with stunning photos and anecdotes from her travels throughout Italy, this is a book to savour with a class of Sangiovese.

The first book by former Australian Culinary Federation president and Open House contributor Glenn Austin, A book about a cook is a “no bullshit” behind-the-scenes look at Austin’s career, from his early days to now. Chapters such as “Sex drove me to cooking” and “No plan, just attack” are interspersed with recipes highlighting fresh Australian produce and some home truths every chef will relate to. OH

Free Range Oven Roast Chicken Breast 5535900

NEW

Would your customers prefer free range? Introducing new Free Range Oven Roast Chicken Breast from Ingham Foodservice. Succulent, tender and Gluten Free, this pre sliced breast meat can be used either cold or heated.

www.inghamfoodservice.com.au

ARM0707 Ingham FR Roast Chicken Strips_Half Page_OH.indd 1

Ingham’s Free Range Oven Roast Chicken Breast has no artificial colours or preservatives and is quick and easy to add to pizza, salads, sandwiches and much more. So if you’re after something new... Ingham has the answer.

For more information or to place an order, contact your local branch.

www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, March 2015 35 9/03/2015 12:47 pm

PRODUCTS

Cinnamon dream

Organic wear

As part of their Sweet Dream collection of classic ice creams, Mövenpick has created a velvety cinnamon ice cream made with Swiss milk, rich cream and a touch of very fine cinnamon powder sourced from Sri Lanka. The Cinnamon ice cream is ideal as a dessert base, or in combination with apple pies, fruit tarts, and fresh fruit for a lighter treat.

Cream Workwear have launched a range of premium organic cotton workwear specific for the restaurant and foodservice industry. The Cream Workwear range is made from certified organic cotton with 13 designs, including women’s and men’s chef jackets, pants, and aprons. The inclusion of 3 per cent spandex provides stretch in the fabric for comfortable movement, and practical design features like mobile phone pockets, hanging tabs and underarm breathing eyelets add to the quality.

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www.moevenpick-icecream.com

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www.creamworkwear.com.au

Guilt free donuts

The next generation

Noshu have launched a range of naturally sweetened donuts which are gluten-free, low carb, dairy free and have no added sugars. Noshu guilt free donuts are made with all natural colours and flavours, as well as low-starch, grain-free flours and fibres including coconut flour and pumpkin purée. Noshu donuts are available in Dark Chocolate & Raspberry, Caramel Spice, and Banana & Coconut flavours.

Moffat has launched the next generation in combi-steamer ovens, with the new Convotherm 4 range. The new series of ovens has a completely new look with two panel interface options. The easyTouch and easyDial interface designs is available in 28 models and seven capacity options. The Convotherm 4 range features userfriendly design, automatic cleaning, even cooking, energy efficiency, and has minimal water consumption.

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www.noshu.com.au

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36 Open House, March 2015 www.openhousemagazine.net

www.moffat.com.au

Bespoke desserts

Pure Yuzu

Sydney-based dessert company Dessertmakers has launched a range of customised ready-to-plate premade desserts. Dessertmakers offers a unique twist on a number of classic desserts including creamy panna cotta, velvety chocolate mousse, tangy buttermilk ice cream, home-style crumbles and steamed puddings. They are made using only the best locally sourced ingredients.

The Good Grub Hub has introduced Pure Yuzu Essence to Australia. The essence is made by simply putting Yuzu juice through a centrifugal process, so there are no chemicals or solvents, and no added vegetable oil. The result is a strong, natural Yuzu flavor with no bitterness. Yuzu Essence can be added to butter, cream, sauces and salad dressings, as well as any products which go through an emulsification process, such as lollies, chocolates and jelly sweets.

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info@dessertmakers.com.au

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www.thegoodgrubhub.com

Handle it

That’s the Spirit

Solidteknics has launched a new 100 per sent Australian-made AUSfonte Sauteuse cast iron pan for chefs. The 24cm pan includes innovative features for improved cooking performance, such as a smooth synthetic-free nonstick cooking surface that is safe at high cooking temperatures, and the unique “love” handle that reduces heat transfer up the handle. Other benefits include even heating, perfect browning and durability.

Bass & Flinders has released Australia’s first aged grape spirit, Ochre. This rare first vintage spirit is double distilled in an alembic still on the Mornington Peninsula from Chardonnay grapes. A limited 2015 release will be available exclusively at the Bass and Flinders Distillery in Red Hill Victoria.

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www.ochrespirit.com.au

www.solidteknics.com

www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, March 2015 37

PROFILE

1 Adam Swanson. 2, 3 Zucca Greek Mezze. 4 Esca Restaurant.

Multi-tasker Running two restaurants, being a brand ambassador for San Remo and appearing on TV is all in a day’s work for Adam Swanson, writes Sheridan Randall.

delaide-born executive chef Adam Swanson was recently named Young Achiever of the Year by Restaurant & Catering Australia, at a gala dinner held in Canberra’s Parliament House this month. This is the latest accolade for the restaurant owner, who began his culinary career when he was 17-years-old, before establishing Zucca Greek Mezze at Holdfast Shores in Adelaide in his mid-twenties. Under his guidance, it was awarded the title of “Best Mediterranean Restaurant” for three consecutive years, and won “Best Greek Restaurant” in the South Australian Restaurant and Catering Association Awards in 2009. He followed it with Italian restaurant Esca in the same beachside suburb four years later. “I grew up being taught strong family values, and it was very important for me to do the hard yards and learn as much as possible before going out on my own,” he says. “There are too many people these days that believe that opening a restaurant or becoming a chef is a glamorous and easy thing to do. The reality is greatly different – it is hard work, and time spent training provided a good platform to grow.” Setting up his second restaurant Esca was motivated by Swanson’s Italian heritage through his mother. “Offering two different cuisines and two different styles of service was very challenging at first, but after a few months I settled into a groove and was able to better juggle responsibilities,” he says. “Devoting enough time to each, while trying to strike a work-life balance as well, was a constant challenge – and was one of the reasons why I sold my share of Esca several years later.” 38 Open House, March 2015 www.openhousemagazine.net

Given Swanson’s Italian heritage and Adelaide roots, it seemed a perfect match when he was approached by San Remo to become an ambassador. “I was really excited when I was approached by San Remo, because it is a great South Australian family owned company with strong family values,” he says. “My role as a San Remo brand ambassador has taken me to various parts of the world, and allowed me to meet some amazing people.” Regular guest appearances on Ten’s Ready Steady Cook, as well as Justine Schofield’s Everyday Gourmet, Good Chef, Bad Chef and Seven’s Out of the Blue have lifted Swanson’s profile and helped him communicate his culinary philosophy to the wider public. “Some of my best childhood memories involve food, particularly cooking with my Nonna – my grandmother from my mother’s Italian side of the family – who taught me a lot about the importance of using quality ingredients and the minimalistic elegance offered by simple cooking,” he says. The recent Young Achiever of the Year award made him feel “humbled”, and this year looks to be busier than ever with a new TV series and a new establishment on the cards. But that hasn’t kept him away from the stove. “I am pleased to say that on a good week I am still in the kitchen three to four days during a week,” he says. “With such a busy lifestyle, and juggling different commitments, it can be a bit of a challenge but I love the opportunity to spend time in the kitchen, work with my team, and create meals for people to enjoy.” OH

AUSTRALIAN CULINARY FEDERATION NEWS

A first for the ACF F

ebruary was an exciting month for the Australian Culinary Federation (ACF), with the 2015 ACF Chef’s Conference held at the Novotel Twin Waters on Queensland’s Sunshine Coast. This was the first time the ACF have hosted a conference for members and industry friends and it was considered to be a great success by everyone who attended. Delegates were treated to a varied program that included demonstrations by Tetsuya Wakuda for Petuna and Rockliff Spanner Crab. Peter Wright for Fonterra Foodservice made cheese; Steve and Didier from Robot Coupe showed us how versatile the new Robot Cook is; and Dom and Kerry from Melrose Meats made gourmet sausages. Other presenters included Senior Sergeant Lucas Young, who spoke about substance abuse in the industry, Leo DeBattista, speaking about good business practices, and Jessi McEwan, who spoke on the topic of young chefs. The ACF board also presented its

program for the future. Monday afternoon saw a select few of our industry friends present their products in a small tradeshow. Sponsors and presenters Moffat, Training Evolution, Table Direct, Pasta Riviera and The Good Grub Hub all showed their wares, as well as generously donating products for the conference “show bags” and highlyanticipated raffle. A gala dinner at Lily’s on the Lagoon, with entertainment by Paul McKenna and a raffle featuring more than 35 prizes, including donations from state chapters, concluded the program in style. A chef’s weekend would not be possible without good food and the kitchen at Novotel Twin Waters did a great job with the product that was generously provided our sponsors, Emerald Valley beef and lamb, Patisserie d Artiste, Sealord, Petuna and Rockliff and Simon George & Sons. Congratulations also to Peter Wright and Jock Stewart who were presented with National Life Membership at the conference.

PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE

Neil Abrahams Australian Culinary Federation (ACF)

Next year’s conference in Tasmania is already being planned and we look forward to seeing you all there. OH

ON THE MOVE Min Kim joins the Saké Double Bay team as executive chef. He brings with him extensive knowledge of the hospitality industry after seven years’ experience at several top contemporary Japanese restaurants. Most recently, Min worked at Sydney’s Sokyo restaurant as senior sous chef.

Urban Purveyor Group’s Swine & Co. debuts a revitalised menu designed by head chef Michael Box. He has previously worked in other Sydney restaurants including Momofuku Seiobo and Nomad in Surry Hills.

Executive chef Anthony Flowers will head up the new concept restaurant at Novotel Sydney, The Ternary. He brings 22 years of experience to the position; he has previously worked at The Mean Fiddler, Stacks Taverna and Berowra Waters Inn.

Pelicano in Double Bay introduces a new menu by head chef Faheem Noor. He has previously worked in Sydney restaurants Tetsuya’s and Sushinho as well as in London under Gordon Ramsey at Maze and Harrods.

Urban Purveyor Group appoints Tom Pash to the newly created position of chief executive officer. Pash brings 15 years of international hospitality and venture capital experience across awardwinning restaurant brands to the role.

InterContinental Sydney Double Bay has launched its own in-house kosher catering for events and celebrations, with executive chef Julien Pouteau leading the development of an extensive kosher menu offering.

www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, March 2015 39

Yum Yum Pigâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bum. ! . . y y y e