Open House Food Service April 2014 Issue by Creative Head Media Pty Ltd

APRIL 2014

Aged care solutions Sustainable winemaking Food trucks on the move

Flavour hit McCain Seasoned Big & Chunky

NE W

It’s Gluten Free, not Flavour Free Outstanding taste and softness, from the bakery to your freezer

FROZE

Introducing Bürgen® Gluten Free 4 months frozen shelf life Available nationally 6 loaves per carton Convenient (always on hand) No artificial preservatives Dairy free

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CONTENTS

Regulars

ON THE COVER McCain Seasoned Big & Chunky look set to become a big hitter for foodservice operators looking to maximise their winter menus and boost their bottom lines.

04 Editor’s word 06 News

10 In season 12 Origins Truffles 14 Q&A Glenn Austin

Features

32 Regional snapshot The Barossa Valley, South Australia

08 Cover story McCain Seasoned Big & Chunky

34 Cooking the books

16 Talking head Nestlé Golden Chef’s Hat

36 Products 38 Profile Ravi Presser, Feast of Merit 38 Australian Culinary Federation news

18 Stocks & sauces Going native to spice things up 22 Pork A protein with potential 26 Food trucks Mobile menus speed ahead 30 Aged care solutions Putting the care back into food

31 Sustainability Ecologically sustainable wines

To ensure you never miss out there are now more ways to enjoy Open House. As well as the monthly magazine, Open House is also available as a free iPad app, which is packed with exclusive extras. The Open House app is available at the iTunes app store.

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www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, April 2014 3

EDITOR’S WORD

A foodie obsession Published in Australia by Creative Head Media Pty Ltd

hen Heston Blumenthal’s television series Heston’s Fantastical Feasts screened on television a few years ago, I have to admit I became a bit obsessed. With the food – "sausage on a stick" lickable wall paper! Savoury Slush Puppies! Edible graves! With Blumenthal’s science cum wizardry – explosions! Levitating desserts! Blood filled leeches! And with how you got invited on to the show to sample one of his “feasts”. There didn't seem to be any rhyme or reason to the choices. Why musical theatre star Adam Garcia? Or Celebrity Big Brother alumni and television presenter Ulricka Jonsson? Or the actor who played Mr Lucas in Are you being served? Admittedly, having a table of easily impressed celebrities probably made for better TV than a group of food historians earnestly mulling over the cultural significance of sushi (in Blumenthal’s case disguised as a wad of pound notes) in the greed is good '80s, but hey, we journalists know how to have fun! A trip to Blumenthal's The Fat Duck restaurant in the UK has been on my wish list ever since I read about his Sound of the Sea dish, edible “sand” topped with abalone, razor clams, shrimps and oysters and three kinds of edible seaweed, and served with an iPod so that diners can listen to the sound of the sea while they eat. Brilliant. So you can imagine how excited I am now that the rumours about Blumenthal opening a restaurant in Australia have proven to be correct. Even better, it turns out that Blumenthal is bringing The Fat Duck – menus, restaurant fittings, staff and all – to Melbourne for six months.

Suite 202, 80-84 Chandos Street, St Leonards 2065 P.O. Box 189, St Leonards 1590 Website: www.openhousemagazine.net ACN 147 436 280 ISSN 0312-5998

PUBLISHER Alexandra Yeomans MANAGING EDITOR Ylla Watkins JOURNALIST Sheridan Randall SALES & MARKETING MANAGER Jo Robinson ACCOUNT MANAGER Leah Jensen DESIGN/PRODUCTION MANAGER Bin Zhou

Now all I have to do is score a booking when reservations open in September...

DIGITAL/PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Xin Jin

On another note, you’ll notice a few changes to this month’s Open House. We’ve given the magazine a fresh new look, additional pages and a couple of new regular sections. Hopefully you like it as much as we do.

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Anna-Louise McDougall

HEAD OFFICE – SYDNEY Creative Head Media Pty Ltd Suite 202, 80-84 Chandos Street, St Leonards 2065 P.O. Box 189, St Leonards 1590 Tel: (02) 9438 2300 Fax: (02) 9438 5962 Email: enquiries@creativehead.com.au SUBSCRIPTIONS 1 yr $99; 2 yrs $174; 3 yrs $261 (incl. GST and surface mail) Ylla Watkins Managing editor

THIS MONTH’S TOP STORY An increasingly common sight in Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane, Food trucks are proving that the concept of quality mobile menus is no passing fad. Find out more on page 26.

4 Open House, April 2014 www.openhousemagazine.net

Official publication for the Australian Culinary Federation

CAB Audited Circulation 20,388 September 2013

INDUSTRY NEWS

Heston Blumenthal to bring Fat Duck to Melbourne experiments and interest in historic British cuisine, the chef has chosen Crown Melbourne as the home for his Fat Duck restaurant, his first culinary venture outside the UK. After Blumenthal returns to Britain in August 2015, the restaurant will then become Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, based on the two-Michelin-starred London restaurant of the same name which serves food “inspired by historic British gastronomy”. The restaurant, said to have been two years in the planning, will seat 45 people for lunch and dinner. Bookings will open in September 2014 with the restaurant slated to open in February 2015.

ritish chef Heston Blumenthal has announced that he will close his three Michelin star restaurant, the Fat Duck, at Christmas and move it to Australia for six months, while his Berkshire premises are upgraded. Known for his Willy Wonka-like kitchen

Tourism Australia managing director, John O'Sullivan, has greeted the news with approval, saying Crown Resorts has pulled off a major international culinary coup. "Heston and his Fat Duck restaurant represent a tantalising culinary combo,” he said. “So the news that both will be making Australia their second home early next year speaks volumes for Australia’s reputation as a world class food and wine destination.”

Top dining out trends

out will visit fast food chains or quick service restaurants (QSRs) with takeaway options being more popular than eating in.

Burgers, “sub” sandwiches and fried chicken top the list of Australians favourite foods when dining out, according to a recent Enhanced Media Metrics Australia (EMMA) Out of Home Dining report.

McDonald’s topped the list as the most popular fast food brand among Australians, with 42 per cent of Australians visiting the franchise in the past month. This was followed by Subway, KFC, Hungry Jack’s and Domino’s Pizza.

The report found 81 per cent of Australians dine out at least once a month with 51 per cent of Australians visiting cafés at least once a month. More than half of those eating

“Perhaps not surprisingly, it is young people, aged between 14 and 29, that are heaviest users of dining out and takeaway options,”

6 Open House, April 2014 www.openhousemagazine.net

World’s Best Female Chef named Helena Rizzo of Mani Restaurant, in São Paulo, Brazil, has been named the 2014 Veuve Clicquot World’s Best Female Chef, as part of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards. The Veuve Clicquot World's Best Female Chef award celebrates the work of a woman whose cooking excites the world’s toughest critics and acclaimed chefs, 900 of whom voted in the category. “We are very proud to present this award, in conjunction with Veuve Clicquot, to Helena,” said William Drew, group editor of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. “In what remains a very male world, we feel that celebrating the success of brilliant female chefs is vitally important. “If Helena’s achievements, in turn, inspire future generations of women to enter the profession, that can only be a positive outcome.” Rizzo was the winner of last year’s Veuve Clicquot Latin America’s Best Female Chef award at the inaugural Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants in September 2013. Mani Restaurant featured on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list for the first time in 2013, ranking at number 46. said Simon Wake, managing director of Ipsos MediaCT, the company behind the EMMA report. “Interestingly, less than one fifth of young people feel confident about cooking and only 14 per cent will make an effort to get the right nutrition at every meal.” The reasons for choosing particular fast food chains were health, taste and price and convenience. “Students, sales people and labourers are the heaviest users of quick service restaurants,” Wake said.

NEWS BRIEFS

Fears industry not ready for PIN only transactions Industry body Restaurant & Catering Australia has raised concerns of how prepared the tourism and hospitality sector is to make the imminent switch to Personal Identification Numbers (PIN) for credit card transactions. From August 1, 2014, Australia will switch from signatures to verify credit card transactions to PIN in an attempt to strengthen payment security. The Industry Security Initiative, a collective of Australia’s major financial institutions and card schemes, has been executing a PINwise campaign to encourage Australians to use PIN for authorisation on chip-enabled credit and debit cards, instead of a signature. However, Restaurant & Catering Australia CEO John Hart is concerned the awareness campaign has largely focused on consumers, leaving small businesses in the dark. “Pin@POS will change the way many restaurant and hospitality operators engage

with customers when finalising their credit card payment,” he said. “Industry needs to be ready to accommodate this change, as it may require all of Australia’s 800,000 payment terminals to undergo a software update, if not install new technology. “To date, minimal communication has been received educating restaurant operators on how to prepare for the change. In fact, the change could have significant financial consequences for some operators.” According to Hart the industry has raised concerns the new terminals won’t provide the flexibility and functionality required when completing payment transactions in a hospitality environment, including being able to tip restaurant staff. “There’s a strong need to split bills, add tips and process credit cards at the table – all critical components of a dining experience that do not generally occur in a retail situation.”

Bennelong deal collapses

Stokehouse at Bennelong was set to open its doors in May 2014 however the restaurant group will instead focus on rebuilding its St Kilda’s Stokehouse restaurant after it burnt down earlier this year. In a joint statement released on Tuesday, Opera House chief executive Louise Herron said both parties had hoped there would only be a delay on the opening of the new

Award-winning chef Dan Hong has been named the Restaurant & Catering Australia’s Young Achiever of the Year 2014. Hong, 31, is head chef at three Sydney Merivale restaurants including Ms. G’s, Mr. Wong and El Loco.

Australian fisheries doing well Australian fisheries are in the best shape they have been for 20 years, according to Dr Patrick Hone, executive director of the Fisheries Research and Development Corporation. “Australians can be confident that locally-caught seafood is being sourced from fisheries that are being managed for sustainability,” he said.

Rockpool forced to close temporarily Neil Perry’s awardwinning Rockpool Bar and Grill in Sydney’s CBD suffered extensive damage after a kitchen fire blazed through the restaurant earlier this month. A cooking accident in the kitchen is believed to have started the fire, which spread to the overhead ducting forcing diners and staff to evacuate.

IconPark’s first winner revealed IconPark, the world’s first online crowdfunding platform dedicated to bars and restaurants, have named Stanley St Merchants as the project’s first residents. The 21-day crowdfunding campaign saw six “drinking and dining concepts” vie for the right to trade in the inner city site for a limited 12-week season.

The Sydney Opera House Trust has announced that the deal with Melbourne’s Van Haandel Group to run Bennelong restaurant at the Opera House has fallen though. The Van Haandel Group won the 10 year tender to run the restaurant, to be named Bennelong by Stokehouse, last November, after the Trust decided to make it more accessible to more people. It was previously occupied by chef Guillaume Brahimi’s acclaimed fine dining restaurant, Guillaume at Bennelong, for 12 years.

Dan Hong Young Achiever of the Year

Merivale acquires Beach Palace Hotel restaurant after the Van Haandel Group’s Stokehouse was destroyed by fire in January, however this was not to be. In the statement Frank van Haandel from the Van Haandel Group said “we put our heart and soul into the tender process for the Sydney Opera House site and achieving the status of preferred tenderer will always be one of our greatest accomplishments”. The Opera House Trust will now reconsider the future of the Bennelong space. OH

Merivale has announced their third property acquisition in recent months with the addition of the Coogee’s iconic Beach Palace Hotel to their portfolio. Chief executive Justin Hemmes (pictured) said he has great plans to bring the landmark property to life. “There are very few iconic beachside venues like this in Australia, both in terms of scale and location,” he said.

www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, April 2014 7

COVER STORY

Spud star McCain Seasoned Big & Chunky looks set to become a big hitter for foodservice operators looking to maximise their winter menus and boost their bottom lines.

cCain has always been famous for ensuring quality all the way from the farm gate to the plate, which is why foodservice operators can be assured that McCain’s latest specialty fry delivers on quality, consistency and flavour. Developed with the needs of foodservice operators in mind and using only top quality ingredients combined with a commitment to excellence at every step of the production process, McCain Seasoned Big & Chunky packs a flavoursome punch that will see customers coming back for more. Offering convenience, Seasoned Big & Chunky uses quality A-grade potatoes that are pre-cut to 15mm x 15mm before being par-fried in 100 per cent canola oil and seasoned in McCain’s special seasoning – making them extra crunchy and extra tasty.

www.mccainfoodservice.com.au

Simply cook from frozen for 3.5 minutes, and with no cutting or preparation required, chefs are left to spend their time on other dishes. Produced locally, these beautiful golden brown hand-cut style chips are the perfect addition to any menu, either as a side order, or as part of the increasingly popular tapas-style share plates that are

8 Open House, April 2014 www.openhousemagazine.net

sweeping food outlets nationally. With celebrity chefs such as Heston Blumenthal getting behind the humble chip, consumers are demanding more from their favourite side order. McCain Seasoned Big & Chunky satisfies that need, with their perfect seasoning and crunchy texture. Make them stand out by being creative with the way they are served. Homemade relishes, chunky tomato sauce, aioli or mayonnaise make delicious dipping sauces, or simply garnish with rosemary and some sea salt – it’s all about variety. McCain Seasoned Big & Chunky is a great way to upgrade menus and the perfect accompaniment to premium dishes, such as fillet steak, seared tuna or slow-roast belly of pork. With many high end chefs opening stand-alone burger joints, McCain Seasoned Big & Chunky makes a great addition to any burger menu. Operators can also reward themselves with every carton of McCain Seasoned Big & Chunky earning 10 points on McCain’s exclusive reward program – My McCain Fries Advantage. OH

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IN SEASON NOW

Perfect persimmons W

be taken as despite being firm to the touch, the thin skin is delicate and bruises easily. Surface blemishes are fine and do not affect the flavour and eating quality.

ith a subtle, sweet flavour and a range of textures to suit different dishes, Australian-grown persimmons are a versatile addition to any number of autumn and winter dishes.

There is no one colour to look for as the fruit comes in various shades of orange depending upon variety and stage of the season.

There are two varieties of persimmon, sweet (non astringent) and the original persimmon (astringent). Original persimmon are large, heart shaped fruits, ranging in colour from pale orange to deep red-orange, which need to be harvested once fully mature. They are ready for eating when the flesh is soft, jellylike and sweet.

Choose sweet persimmons that are free from bruises and still have green, semi-pliable caps. As original persimmons are ready to eat when the flesh is soft select one that yields gently to palm pressure, then allow to ripen at room temperature until mushy. If you need to speed up the ripening process, you can put the persimmons in a paper bag with a couple of apples. Persimmons should be stored at room temperature.

Sweet persimmon are round in shape with a diameter of around 10cm. The fruit has a slightly flattened top that holds the green stem (calyx) and ranges in colour from pale orange to a deep red-orange. Best eaten crunchy and firm like an apple they can also be left till mushy and soft, like the original persimmon.

mashed and incorporated into recipes.

Both can be eaten peeled or unpeeled, stem and calyx removed, and cut into sections, or

When selecting persimmon, growers group Persimmons Australia says that care should

In season from late February until mid-June, 12 months of favourable hot and dry weather conditions means that both sweet and original persimmons are packed with flavour and especially plentiful this year. OH

May

April • Apples

• Guava

• Silverbeet

• Apples

• Asian greens

• Spinach

• Asian greens

• Kiwifruit

• Sweet potatoes

• Avocados

• Imperial mandarins

• Tamarillo

• Avocados

• Leeks

• Turnips

• Bananas

• Kiwifruit

• Turnips

• Bananas

• Lemons

• Beans

• Leeks

• Witlof

• Broccoli

• Mushrooms

• Broccoli

• Limes

• Brussels sprouts

• Nashi

• Brussels sprouts

• Mushrooms

• Cabbages

• Navel Oranges

• Cabbages

• Nashi

• Carrots

• Okra

• Capsicums

• Okra

• Cauliflower

• Parsnips

• Cauliflower

• Pears

• Celery

• Pears

• Chestnuts

• Passionfruit

• Celeriac

• Persimmons

• Chokos

• Persimmons

• Chestnuts

• Pomegranates

• Custard apples

• Pomegranates

• Custard apples

• Quinces

• Eschallots

• Potatoes

• Fennel

• Rhubarb

• Fennel

• Pumpkins

• Ginger

• Parsnips

• Fuji fruit

• Quinces

• Imperial

• Silverbeet

10 Open House, April 2014 www.openhousemagazine.net

mandarins

• Spinach

*Based on the average fibre content per 100g of the top 20 muesli (Aztec data). ÂŽRegistered trade marks. Kellogg (Aust.) Pty. Ltd. authorised user. ÂŠ2014 Kellogg Company.

ORIGINS

dramatically due to wartime destruction of trees, planned de-forestation and acid rain. After 1945, the amount of truffles produced plummeted, with prices rising dramatically.

1 1 Dogs are used to hunt truffles. 2 Truffles are prized for their exotic flavour and aroma. 3 A little truffle goes a long way.

The black truffle or black Périgord truffle is the second-most commercially valuable species. It is named after the Périgord region in France and grows with oak and hazelnut trees. The black truffle’s aroma has been likened to undergrowth and strawberries as well as dried fruit with a hint of cocoa.

Truffles Prized by many, these subterranean wonders have been mystifying food lovers for more than a thousand years, writes Anna-Louise McDougall.

ubbed “the diamonds of the kitchen” by French gastronome Jean BrillatSavarin in 1875, truffles have been a source of allure since Ancient Egyptian times, with their indescribable aroma and supposed aphrodisiac qualities. While they won’t win any beauty prizes (the word truffle comes from the Latin word “tuber”, meaning "swelling" or "lump”), truffles are one of the world’s most expensive foods. A type of fungus, truffles are found underground within the roots of chestnut, oak, hazel, and beech trees. Impossible to spot at surface level, truffles are detected by truffle dogs, who can detect their extremely distinctive aroma. Pigs can also detect the aroma however, they are less often used, as they are known to eat the crop once found. According to “truffle hunters”, you can also tell if any truffles are nearby the movement of certain flies in the air. The Ancient Egyptians were among the first to discover truffles around 2000 BC, treating them as a rare delicacy. Both they and the

The white truffle or "trifola d'Alba" comes from Piedmont region in northern Italy and is the most valuable, with proponents praising its superior taste to other truffles. The highest amount ever paid for a single white truffle was set in December 2007, when Macau casino owner Stanley Ho paid $366,000 for a truffle weighing 1.5kg.

Ancient Greeks used them for therapeutic purposes, believing they gave those who ate them eternal health. Truffles were also supposed to have aphrodisiac qualities, making them popular among noble classes. Truffles all but disappeared in Medieval Europe due to the church's belief that truffles were the devil’s creation because of their exotic aroma. They were known as the “witch’s fares” and for centuries, few people ate or sold them. Despite their strong association with French cuisine, truffles remained relatively unknown in France until the 14th century, when they were pickled in vinegar, soaked in hot water and served with butter. During the Renaissance, truffles made a comeback during the reign of King Louis XIV of France, when they became one of Europe’s most highly-regarded ingredients. By the mid-1800s, more than 2000 tonnes of truffles appeared throughout Europe. However, their cultivation soon decreased

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In 1999, after eight years of inoculating trees with the truffle fungus, the first Australian truffles were harvested in Tasmania. Truffles are new grown in every state and territory except the Northern Territory. The largest producer of Périgord truffles in the southern hemisphere, the Western Australian Wine and Truffle Company, now has more than 13,000 truffle-producing hazel and oak trees. This year, the Melbourne Truffle Festival Co. has announced that it will hold Melbourne’s first ever truffle festival, “Truffle Melbourne 2014”, at Caulfield Racecourse from July 11–13. The festival is set to celebrate Australia becoming the world’s fourth largest truffle producing nation, after France, Italy and Spain. “During Truffle Melbourne 2014, it is estimated that $300,000 worth of truffles will be devoured and savoured,” says festival director and Victorian truffle grower, Nigel Wood. “Be it during a truffle degustation banquet or a master class with a seasoned truffle chef, there will be something to appeal to everyone to satisfy their curiosity and craving for truffles.” Australia’s black winter truffle season runs from June until August. OH

Fast fact: Talk about a pig in mud; truffles produce a chemical almost identical to the mating hormones found in male pigs. The aroma attracts many animals, especially pigs, to find and eat it and then distribute the spores for further growth.

Q&A

A fond farewell After 15 years writing for Open House, Consultant Chef contributor Glenn Austin allows us to pick his brains one last time.

Q: You’ve been writing for Open House magazine for around 15 years. Looking back at that period how have you seen the foodservice industry change? A: Foodservice rarely changes; the recipe to success remains the same with some fine-tuning as the years go on. What has changed the most is the amount of convenience products available to cooks. The second greatest change is social media and the impact ill-informed consumers can have on a restaurant with the pressing of just a few keys on a keyboard or touch pad. Q: There’s been a shift in the way people eat towards more casual dining, more often, in recent years. Do you see that trend continuing? A: Absolutely. Casual dining with high flavour, trendy food will continue to grow. We have smaller kitchens in city apartments and houses, and larger restaurant precincts these days. Information about food and the variety of quality cuisine available is increasing, and people are working longer hours and using restaurants and cafés as a place of business. We have only just begun. Q: What do you think the biggest challenges are facing restaurant operators in 2014? A: Ridiculous rents; over-regulation by State and Federal government; and a dramatic shortage of talented cooks.

contribution to the industry. What does it mean to you to get that sort of recognition? A: I started cooking in 1979; I started giving back to the industry in 1981. It is humbling to receive recognition for something you love but on the other hand it proves that the more you give the more you get. A career of hard work does not go unnoticed and I haven’t finished yet. It was a great feeling to be acknowledged by my peers; I really appreciated it. Q: What advice would you give a young chef, just starting out in his or her career? A: Work smart, work hard, and cherish the food and those who grow it. Do not focus on the dollar; focus on the food. If you do this the dollar will come. Q: Looking back on your career in general, what have been some of the highlights for you? A: There are many things: surviving this long; having the ability to get some farmers more money for their produce; putting Australian chefs on the world stage; getting greater recognition for Australia as a serious food culture, being the first Australian to sit on the world board of chefs; being the honorary life president of the Australian Culinary Federation. The people and characters I have worked with over the years have also been life changing.

Q: You’ve been heavily involved with the ACF, competed for Australia in international cooking competitions and done a lot of charity work throughout our career. Why is it important for you to be so involved with the industry?

Q: What’s next for you?

A: It’s an industry that has provided a mongrel Aussie like me with a lifestyle most people would only dream of, so of course I need to give back. There are three things that need to be cherished in this world: farmers, food and family, for without them you have nothing.

A: After 15 or so years of writing for the premier magazine in the industry, Open House, this is my last stand. It seems like a lifetime has passed, but passed it has. Thank you to the hundreds of readers that have commented on my work over the years. I do appreciate the time given to write and ring. See you somewhere, sometime. OH

Q: You were recently recognised by ACF Qld for your

14 Open House, April 2014 www.openhousemagazine.net

A: God only knows. A dear friend of mine recently said, “Glenn you are a magnet for complexity”. Q: Any last words for Open House’s readers?

SUSTAINABILITY

as well as implementing ecologically sustainable practices in the winery itself. “We recycle all of our waste water on site,” explains Jonathan Lord, senior brand manager for Taylors Wines. “All of our water runoff is captured and then recycled and cleaned on site and then we reuse that in irrigation.”

For the destemming and pressing processes of the winery’s grapes, Taylors Wines have starting composting the grape marc (the solid remains of the grapes after pressing for juice).

1 The McLaren Vale is best known for its red wines. 2 Taylors Wines recycles all of the vineyard’s waste water. 3 The McLaren Vale.

“Over a period of six to nine months it starts to break down and then we can use the grape marc compost around the vineyard,” says Lord. “It reduces evaporation and water usage, promotes surface root activity which is better for the wines in spreading out root profile and it also promotes soil health – all without the use of pesticides. 3

Down to earth Sustainable winemaking is an elusive concept that, without an industry standard, can be difficult to define. So, what makes a sustainable drop, asks Anna-Louise McDougall.

ith interest in sustainability at an all-time high, many Australian winemakers are embracing the idea of working to reduce their ecological footprint to protect the local and global environment. The McLaren Vale Grape Wine and Tourism Association in South Australia established the McLaren Vale Sustainable Winegrowing Australia (MVSWA) program in 2009 (under the name Generational Farming), the first of its kind in the country. The program’s main aim is to provide growers with the means to improve their wine growing practices, optomising the sustainability of both their business and the region. It does this by providing benchmarks and practical methods as well as rating the grower on their sustainability performance. “The program was established using an inclusive approach to embrace all growers from McLaren Vale, placing them into different sustainability categories in such a way that grower can develop steadily but following their own pace and achievable

objectives for their particular situation,” says Irina Santiago, McLaren Vale Grape Wine and Tourism Association sustainability officer. The program identifies the six areas main areas of sustainability including soil health, fertiliser management, pest and disease management, biodiversity management, water management, waste management and social work, community and winery relations. So far the program has been well received by local growers, with the program seeing a 37 per cent growth in participation in 2013, 87 to 119 members. More than half (53 per cent) of grapes crushed in the region during the 2013 harvest were grown within MVSWA principles. “There is a broad acceptance across Australian viticulture regions that sustainability improvement must be a common goal of the Australian wine industry,” Santiago says. Taylors Wines, located in the Clare Valley in South Australia, also places importance on protecting, preserving and enhancing the quality of the fruit from their vineyards,

16 Open House, April 2014 www.openhousemagazine.net

“With improved vine health you will get quality grapes, and with quality grapes you will get good quality taste.” Taylors also recently opened a customdesigned wine facility for the 2009 vintage, featuring a large Pera press, which uses fewer pressing cycles to extract the same amount of juice from the grapes than an ordinary wine press. “It’s a Champagne-region style press, generally used for pressing grapes used in sparkling,” Lord says. “It’s a large flat press that can take up to 10-20 tonnes of grapes. When you simply crush the grapes you don’t get as pure a flavour profile. We use a process called whole berry pressing, which I can only describe as a warm, gentle hug from mum versus a gruff hug from an uncle you don’t see very often.” As the process is gentler it releases less unwanted chemicals and preserves purity of flavour. Taylors Wines’ carbon neutral range Eighty Acres was also the first wine to be declared 100 per cent carbon neutral. “We were assessed on everything from how much fuel was put into the tractors that tend the ground, even before the grapes are grown, through to which end market the product is sold in,” says Lord. While the proportion of wineries using sustainable wine making methods is still comparatively small, increasing consumer demand can only mean that the number of Australian wineries using sustainable methods is set to increase, with or without an industry standard. OH

125

ANNIVERSARY

125 s â&#x20AC;Ť ×¤â&#x20AC;Źs 5 f s To celebrate our 125th year, we have developed five unique flavour blends from around the world, based on results from the McCormick 2014 Flavour Forecast. Created by a global team of experts at McCormickâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;including chefs, culinary professionals, trend trackers and food technologists, these special flavour blends will inspire any chef. Available from your local foodservice distributor, these represent the pinnacle of flavour innovation. So donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t delay, start putting 125 years of passion into your meal creations today.

Be the first to use the Flavour Forecast blends in your menu! For your free sample call McCormick For Chefs Customer Service on 1800 100 750 or for more information visit www.mccormick.com.au/foodservice

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STOCKS AND SAUCES

Home grown heroes Native Australian ingredients are becoming more commonplace on menus across the nation, with sauces a great way for diners to get a taste of the bush, writes Sheridan Randall.

ginger, riberry and Davidson plum that gives a nice sour astringency to it.”

here is no doubt that going native is one the hottest culinary trends at the moment. Bush tucker is losing its parochial connotations, with native Australian ingredients being used by chefs as they would any other ingredient, for their flavour.

Switching traditional ingredients with native Australian ingredients is not as difficult as it may appear, with Fleming saying it can be as simple as breaking down the recipe to the characteristics needed.

Orana restaurant in Adelaide has been pushing the native Australian theme with great success, with owner Jock Zonfrillo quoted as saying “we are on the cusp of discovering our own identity”.

“Are you looking for acidity, something sweeter, or something a little bitter?” he says. “With the XO sauce we are replacing those classic Asian flavours with stuff that has the same kind of effect on the recipe but with a native feel. It makes everything a bit more unique.”

While Orana’s menu features dishes such as hotsmoked kangaroo shoulder sandwiches and fire-charred Coorong mullet with flax lilly and sweet apple berries, downstairs bar Street-ADL is also utilising native Australian ingredients in its sauces, according to Orana’s head chef, Shannon Fleming.

Fleming is wary of using a native Australian ingredient as the hero of a dish, preferring to give recipes “a bit of a native backbone”.

“We make our own tomato ketchup, barbeque sauce and hot sauce and almost every single one of them has the base with a native ingredient,” he says. “With the tomato sauce we Native platter at Tukka Restaurant. use bush tomato, which adds depth and flavour and some cinnamon myrtle, which has a spicy aroma. The barbeque sauce has some muntries in it, which are like a bush apple. We make a macadamia and muntrie emulsion to use as a dipping sauce for our pork crackling.” One of the bar’s most popular items is its green bean “crisp fries” tossed in a native XO sauce. “The philosophy of XO is using sweet, sour and salty,” he says. “We use a native ingredient for each one. There is some wild garlic, native 18 Open House, April 2014 www.openhousemagazine.net

See recipe in the Open House iPad app.

“Use those basic flavour profiles to build it up rather than just using one thing that you try and highlight,” he says. “It also changes things, as the native ingredients have quite an impact on the mouth feel and the consistency so it’s a matter of playing with them.”

With many native ingredients having a short season, many producers freeze their product. However, nothing beats fresh for Fleming. “The muntrie season finished at the end of March but they are widely available frozen all year round,” he says. “Their season only goes for about a month. However, the freezing changes the texture of it. A frozen muntrie is horrible compared to a fresh one.” Sometimes the kitchen will find other ways of preserving produce.

Photo by Wiki Commons.

Bush tomato Kutjera, or bush tomatoes, are part of the tomato family. There are over 100 species of wild tomatoes in Australia, however, only six are known to be edible, with kutjera the most well-known. A rich source of minerals, particularly potassium, they are also high in vitamin C. Bush tomatoes can be stored for several years in the dried form.

flavour that I can’t pick up on?’ and that might be the cinnamon myrtle, something that they haven’t had before. It rounds out that sauce a bit differently to what they were expecting and generally in a good way.” He concedes it has been something he has had to learn since starting at Orana. “It’s been a big learning curve but it is a philosophy we all share and to be honest I wouldn’t know how to cook any other way at the moment and I wouldn’t even want to.” Diners at Brisbane’s Tukka Restaurant will have “a general idea of what they are getting” on its native Australian-themed menu, according to owner and executive chef Bryant Wells. “With aniseed myrtle, lemon myrtle and wattle seed they will know exactly what they are in for,” he says. “There are certain things such as lemon aspen and Davidson plums, they know of them but they don’t know the flavour is.

“We try to use small producers when it is in season and fresh. It’s not easy, it takes a little bit more thought and research about it.”

“We currently have a lemon aspen beurre blanc with ocean farm barramundi on the menu. We do a finger lime and preserve lemon salsa with oysters, a NSW Davidson plum jus with kangaroo. We have done aniseed myrtle before, which goes well with emu and venison, while lemon myrtle goes nicely with kangaroo. Native raspberry emulsion goes well with crocodile. If it is something like kangaroo or emu it will be used to complement the dish because game meats go really well with fruit based sauces.”

For Fleming it is all about “looking at things a little bit differently than what was done in the past”.

Some of the native Australian produce have such distinctive flavours they are “something you would use to make a feature” of in the dish.

“We don’t push it, and say this is a native tomato sauce, we just call it tomato sauce,” he says. “[Diners] might taste it and say ‘what is that

“The lemon aspen for our barramundi is a really strong unique flavour,” he says. “The finger limes are really something that jump out

“Riberry is really nice and has an astringent, juniper-like flavour when they are fresh,” he says. “We might brine, pickle or candy them instead. If you make it into a sauce you can almost preserve it that way.

www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, April 2014 19

at you. When you have a sauce with finger limes in it you get little bursts of lime like caviar and those flavours pop out.”

Highly acidic Davidson plums have 100 times the vitamin C found in oranges and also contain lutein, a compound that plays an important role in eye health, along with magnesium, zinc, calcium potassium and manganese. It’s more common to buy them frozen than fresh, due in part to the short season, which lasts only from December to January.

Photo by John Moss /Wiki Commons.

Greg Hampton, executive chef at Melbourne’s Charcoal Lane, is a huge advocate of native Australian ingredients. A qualified horticulturalist, Hampton has honed his knowledge over 25 years, which he is now passing on to both the trainees at the restaurant and students at William Angliss Hospitality School where he teaches a curriculum based on native Australian ingredients.

Davidson plum

“Everything that you can basically think of in the way of mainstream foods here has an alternative in native foods,” he says. “I use all the native spices and berries, citruses, plums and use stuff from all over the country.

as well, especially the desert foods, which are smaller, denser in flavour and packed with nutrients.”

“They are very intense and a lot of them are very high in antioxidents

Hampton compares the native pepperberry to the juniper berry.

“Obviously the way you cook it has a great deal to do with the flavour at the end of it,” he says. “The pepper is quite hot so you need to cook it for some time until the spiciness dissipates.

“You find out with your herbs you’re better off adding them at the end of the cooking otherwise you will lose all the flavour.” Despite the much shorter seasons for many native Australian produce supply is no longer such an issue thanks in no small part to the internet. “You can basically find whatever you want online,” he says. “I use three different types of lime that come from WA. It’s readily available, it’s easy to get, you pay a little bit of freight, but at the end of the day it’s not costing you very much. You don’t need a lot of the products because they are intense in flavour.” OH

1 Finger limes. 2 Tasmanian pepperberry.

Smoked whole Coorong flounder with native XO sauce 3 brown onions (diced fine)

adding more brining and pickling liquid if needed. Allow to cool.

300ml peanut oil 5 whole chilli’s (chopped rough) 100g native riberries 100g muntries 100g native currant 50g lemon aspen 100g wild garlic bulbs (pickled in apple cider vinegar, salt and sugar) 100g gubinge (brined) 100ml gubinge brining liquid 75g palm sugar 1.5 tsp white pepper 1 Coorong flounder (whole) Coastal succulents for garnish Sweat off the onion in the peanut oil in a large pot and add the chopped chilli. Meanwhile quickly blend a combined 200g of the riberry, muntries, native currants and

lemon aspen and juice. Set aside and keep the remaining pulp. Deseed the already brined gubinge. Roughly chop the pickled wild garlic. Add all ingredients to the pot and cook until tender. Add the juice and the brining liquid. Pulse in a jug blender until blended but not smooth. Reduce sauce to desired consistency and adjust taste by

20 Open House, April 2014 www.openhousemagazine.net

Take the Coorong flounder, make 2 cuts in each fillet with a sharp knife to allow the smoke and sauce to penetrate the flesh. Lightly oil and season both sides. Place the fish in a hot smoker or wood-fired char grill for 2 minutes on either side. Take off and liberally brush the XO sauce all over the fish, making sure to get into the flesh. Flash the fish back through a hot oven to cook through. This will only take a few minutes. The thick sauce will have an almost sticky look to it by now. Garnish with any coastal succulents available to you. We use karkalla and ice plant tossed in a hot pan with a little brown butter to add a crispy salty burst to the fish. Use karkalla or pigface fruit when in season for a bit of extra colour. • Recipe courtesy of Orana restaurant.

PORK

Versatile performer Increasingly popular with chefs and customers alike, pork is at its best throughout the Autumn months, writes Ylla Watkins.

ust as spring is associated with new season lamb, April represents the best time to source fresh Australian pork, which is at its most plentiful, best quality and most economical right now, according to Australian Pork. So sure of its product is it that the industry association has declared April Australian PorkFest, a month-long festival which will see butchers and supermarkets showcase fresh Aussie pork in-store, and restaurant chefs spotlight it on their menus. This seasonality is due to the fact that Australia’s pig herd predominantly consists of two types of white pigs (Large Whites and Landrace), which are sometimes crossed with the robust Duroc breed. They are leaner, faster growing pigs that traditionally don’t breed or grow out as well over the warmer summer months. As the weather starts to cool down their fertility and growth rate lifts.

With pigs taking about nine months to mature enough to go to market, piglets that are born in June, July and August of one year hit the market around April of the next year, with later batches of piglets catching up in size with previous litters thanks to the cooler weather. From buttery pork belly to slow-cooked shoulder cooked in milk, succulent roasts with crisp crackling and sublimely tender suckling pig, pork is one of the most versatile meats available, with almost every part of the carcass able to be used. And while it lends itself to rich, indulgent dishes lean cuts such as fillet get a National Heart Foundation “tick”, are high in protein, low in fat and have more B-vitamins (thiamin, niacin, B6 and B12) than most other meats. For chef Dominque Rizzo from Pure Food Cooking in Brisbane, the ambassador for this year’s PorkFest, pork is a meat “everyone

22 Open House, April 2014 www.openhousemagazine.net

enjoys and can relate to”, however it has been underutilised by chefs in the past. “Interest in pork has definitely increased in regards to it being a preferential meat that chefs are doing wonderful things with,” she says. “There’s been a huge amount of pork appearing on menus [in recent years], and chefs are increasingly utilising all the different parts of the pig. “There’s a lot of beautiful pork out there that is either moisture-infused or organic or biodynamic. There are also all these different strains of pigs now that are producing some fantastic products. “Chefs are finding it a lot easier to cook with because the consistency – the taste, the juiciness – is there. And consumers are really enjoying it because of the variety of ways that chefs are able to present it.” Rizzo also points to the success of Australian

Sean Connolly, executive chef, The Morrison Bar & Oyster Room, Sydney

Paul Cooper, head chef and co-owner, Bishop Sessa, Surry Hills Have you seen increased demand for pork?

Have you seen increased demand for pork?

I think customers are starting to realise how amazing pork is and just how versatile and creative one can be with this product. I find pork so diverse; it goes well with all kinds of flavours.

Real foodies love pork, especially pork belly, which evident by the fact it’s on menus all over the country. We cook all our pork on the bone at The Morrison and our most popular cut here is our pork chop.

What's do you think is driving this demand? Pork is not all about bacon any more – it’s more about using the entire beast. We even tend to sell out of our pig head special when we put it on the menu. What's your best way to serve pork?

3 1 Chef Craig Macindoe from MuMu Grill in Sydney. 2 Pork is the star attraction at Sydney's Swine & Co. 3 PorkStar Stewart Wesson's slow cooked pork fillet with squid.

As a general rule, I find turning the oven down to a lower temperature and cooking it a little bit slower will prevent the meat from becoming stringy and dry. Sous vide is a great way to treat the fillet loin, but shoulder and belly we do overnight. The leg is seam butchered and treated the same as the loin and done this way it is amazing and tender.

Pork’s ongoing PorkStar program which encourages chefs to experiment with pork on their menu, as another reason for pork’s increasing popularity in the foodservice space.

Chefs inducted into the ranks of the PorkStars in the past include the likes of Dan Hong, Colin Fassnidge, Man Fieldel, Luke Ngyuen and Rizzo herself.

Now in its ninth year, the program identifies chefs who consistently and creatively demonstrate the versatility of pork on their menus, elevating them to the rank of PorkStar, as well as holding a series of PorkStar events around the country.

According to Australian Pork, follow up research from a survey in 2011 showed that 46 per cent of chef respondents had put a new pork dish on their menu and attributed it directly to the PorkStar activity.

Chefs involved with the program, either as PorkStars, or those who attend the events, benefit in terms of learning new cooking skills and recipes, and through the networking opportunities provided.

“PorkStar has done a great job,” agrees Craig

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Additional research commissioned by Australian Pork in 2013 indicates that pork is seen as “the next big trend” by chefs, and by delivering a higher margin has excellent potential for high plate cost return.

What's do you think is driving this demand? I think the resurgence of nose-to-tail eating has really done a lot for the pork industry. Pork is a very versatile meat and any chef worth his salt wants to master the art of cooking pork’s secondary cuts these days. What's your best way to serve pork? I love to slow cook my pork hock in a master stock for 6-8 hours (depending on the size) until tender, then dust it in potato starch and shallow fry it until crisp and crunchy on the outside. I usually serve it with a salad of radish and apple.

Macindoe, owner and head chef of MuMu Grill in Sydney. “A lot of the up-and-coming chefs would love to be a PorkStar. The fact that they show you all the different ways to cook pork is inspirational. They’ll also show you how to make more money off pork. Macindoe puts on an eight-course “Porkestra” dinner for customers twice a year, which invariably sells out. While diners tend to stick to pork ribs, pork shoulder and twice-cooked pork belly during a normal sitting, Macindoe can be more adventurous during these dinners. “I love the hock,” he says. “We’ll cook it off the bone, press it overnight and then we either fry it or char grill it.

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www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, April 2014 23

“I’ve also just started liking the pig’s head. I went round to every two hatted restaurant I could find who do eat pigs head, and it was all sort of slow cooked, still on the bone, looking at you in the eyes. Then I finally did one where I cooked it over night, peeled the face off, rolled it up with spices, set that, sliced it and fried it, with fish sauce and tapioca. It’s crispy on the outside and melting in the middle.”

Dominique Rizzo's apple balsamic and basil pork scotch fillet stuffed with rhubarb, figs & pistachio nuts with fried choko & orange, mint salad Preparation time: more than 30 mins Cooking time: more than 45 mins Serves: 6-8

New restaurant Swine & Co., also in Sydney, has a predominantly pork-themed menu, with suckling pig cooked on a rotisserie the star of the show. “It’s a homage to the pig,” says head Robert (Bobby) Taylor. “The suckling pig is cooked over charcoal and a mixture of birchwood. That adds a lot of flavour to the pig as its roasting, compared to a conventional oven, and we’ll also throw in rosemary stalks, hard thyme stalks, fennel pollen, that sort of stuff, to flavour the pig as it roasts for three or four hours.” Not only is the meat super-tender, says Taylor, but it’s a “quite homely” way of cooking that customers love. “It’s like going to a friend’s barbeque and watching the meat cook,” he says. “It gets your appetite going and the smell throughout the restaurant is amazing.” Paul da Silva, marketing manager of pork producer Rivalea Australia, welcomes the increase in demand for pork from chefs. “There’s a richness about pork that appeals,” he says. “I think chefs like the idea that you can be adventurous with secondary pork cuts because there’s an anticipated richness in the dish. “People in Australia haven’t traditionally had a lot of skills around cooking pork. They’ve been trained to overcook the hell out of it, so their best pork experiences are likely to have been eating out. Often they’re willing to be a bit more adventurous with pork [in a restaurant] than they would with something else because it’s something they wouldn’t try at home.” Improvements in quality and consistency on the part of producers is also part of the equation. “We’ve gone to a lot of effort and made a significant investment to make sure we produce a product that will meet exactly a diner’s expectations, whether they’re cooking it at home, or in a foodservice context.” he says. “I think that the chefs we see with our product are very confident to use it for any dish that they can conceive.” As Dominque Rizzo says, “Who doesn’t like pork?”. OH

See more recipes in the Open House iPad app. 1.8kg pork scotch fillet/collar butt ½ cup Lirah apple balsamic 8 cloves garlic Pinch of salt 2 tsp pink peppercorns ¼ tsp cinnamon Pinch chili flakes 10 basil leaves ½ cup cream ½ cup Lirah sweet apple vinegar 1 cup chicken stock Stuffing 1 tbsp butter 65g prosciutto, chopped 1 brown onion, finely diced 150g rhubarb, finely diced 7 dried figs, diced 30g spinach, chopped 50g pistachio nuts, shelled and chopped ¼ cup fresh breadcrumbs Kitchen twine Fried choko, orange and mint salad ¼ cup olive oil 3 chokos, peeled, seed removed and cut into eighths 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 2 oranges segmented ½ cup picked mint leaves Salt and pepper Pre heat the oven to 180oC Cut along the edge of the scotch fillet to open it up to produce a reasonable flat piece of pork. In a food processor, combine the apple balsamic with the garlic, salt peppercorns,

24 Open House, April 2014 www.openhousemagazine.net

cinnamon, chili and basil. Place the inside of the pork onto a tray and rub a generous quantity of the marinade into the meat, reserving the remainder of the marinade. Allow to marinate for at least 1 hour in the fridge. Mix the remainder of the marinade with the cream, apple vinegar and the chicken stock and set aside. Melt the butter into a frypan and add in the prosciutto, fry for a couple of minutes then add in the onions, sweat off for 3 minutes until softened. Add in the rhubarb and cook for 2 minutes, stir through the figs, spinach and pistachio nuts and the fresh breadcrumbs. Season with salt and pepper and set aside to cool slightly. Turn the pork over into a baking tray with the flesh side facing up. Place the stuffing mixture onto the pork and roll up firmly securing the rolled pork with the kitchen twine. Pour over the remaining marinade with the apple vinegar and cream and bake the pork basting every 15-20 minutes for 1 hour. Allow the pork to rest before slicing. Fried choko, orange and mint salad Heat a large fry pan with the oil and fry the chokos for 3-4 minutes on each side until golden, place into a serving bowl. Add a little more oil if needed and fry the garlic for 1 minute until golden , add in the orange juice, season with salt and pepper and off the heat stir through the mint. Pour this over the chokos and serve warm.

Dominique Rizzo, Pure Food Cooking, Brisbane

Available to order from your local distributor or contact Primo Food Service on (02) 9742 0000 or email sales@primosmallgoods.com.au

FOOD TRUCKS

Menus on the move Food trucks have been around for a few years now in Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane and are proving that the concept of quality mobile menus is no passing fad, writes Sheridan Randall.

ydney is set to see its fleet of food trucks increase following a successful two-year trial run by the City of Sydney. After building up a strong and loyal following among Sydneysiders, the Council voted to make its food truck program permanent and encourage even more to get on the road. With enquiries from more than 600 potential operators the City of Sydney will issue permits for up to 50 operators to take to the streets over the next two years. Far from cannibalising existing foodservice businesses the food trucks generated new business across the city, according to the Lord Mayor, Clover Moore. According to a Council report more than a third of the 400 customers surveyed (34 per cent) indicated they would eat at home if not at a truck, while 44 per cent said they were in an area specifically to eat at one. There are currently nine trucks in operation offering everything from yum cha to gourmet vegetarian burgers; they serve an average of 1700 customers each every month. Demand has grown so high that the trucks have joined forces to

hold a “Food Trucks United” festival in Belmore Park near Central Station on the first Friday night of every month.

Following a rigorous selection process the first truck, Cantina Movil (formerly Cantina Mobil), started trading in May 2012. The owners have since expanded into a bricks and mortar operation in addition to their now two food trucks. “It’s been about two and a half years ago since we hit the streets and we haven’t looked back,” says co-owner Stephanie Raco, who runs the operation with her partner Rode Vella. Following a nine year stint running a bar, café and live music venue in beach suburb Manly the two decided they were on for something “new that wasn’t being done”.

“We loved the fact that a whole new level of respect was being earned by food trucks around the world that were actually serving great food,” she says. “It looked like something we could sink our teeth into.” With the fit out of food trucks involved in Sydney’s pilot programme reaching six figures in many cases, Vella’s building

26 Open House, April 2014 www.openhousemagazine.net

Fast facts: • The Sydney Food Trucks app, which launched in October 2012, has been downloaded more than 51,000 times and receives an average of 650 visits each day. • A survey of food truck customers conducted last year found that 92 per cent of people thought the trucks made an area feel more welcoming, and 72 per cent thought they increased an area’s safety. • More than one-third of people surveyed said they would have eaten at home if not at a food truck. • A loyal food truck following was also revealed, with trucks specially sought out by 44 per cent of customers. • Eighteen per cent said they ate at a food truck at least once a week.

1 Brisbane’s Bun Mobile Food Trucks. 2 Sydney’s Cantina Movil Food Truck. 3 Food Trucks United. 4 Sydney’s Veggie Patch Food Truck.

experience came into play, saving them substantial set-up costs.

time and time again, with any changes we make tending to be permanent,” she adds.

“The enthusiasm at the start was like ‘finally’,” she says. “You would be at one of the DA [approved] sites and it was like you were some famous entity, with paparazzi snapping at you.”

The City of Sydney funded a comprehensive website and mobile app that allowed the public to track all the food trucks, however Raco still had to come to grips with social media as a tool for promotion.

It’s not just the public that jumped on board, with event organisers also quickly seeing the potential. “We are an event organiser’s dream as we are able to roll in and out hassle free and are able to serve guests quickly with awesome food, so we have seen that step up majorly,” Raco adds.

Food Trucks United is a free monthly event organised by City of Sydney featuring Sydney’s best gourmet food trucks along with a pop-up bar, music and art.

When: First Friday of every month – from 5pm to 10pm Where: Belmore Park, Haymarket Sydney – next to Central Station Website: www.facebook.com/foodtrucksunited

“At the beginning I was on the phone trying to get a foot in the door at places like Sydney Olympic Park. It was hard to break in but once everyone pricked up to what was happening [with food trucks] and it was no longer a great unknown they began giving us a chance. Now I don’t have to make any cold calls and I just field enquiry after enquiry.” Cantina Movil has kept its Mexican themed menu pretty stable over the two years as “we are one of those operators that believe diners just like to know what they are heading for”. “We added pork to our menu after being asked about it

“I’m pushing that late forties age group and prior to the food truck didn’t really want to know about Facebook and all that but I had to pretty quickly change my tune,” she says. “It certainly is the paramount way of letting people know where we are going to be.” Following the success of the trial more than 20 other councils in Sydney are being briefed on how they can start programs in their own area. “We are all for it,” Raco says. “We had a meeting today with Liverpool City Council to activate some of their spaces. We need more trucks on the roads so the more trucks the merrier.” Organic Sydney restaurant Agapé decided to enter the food truck scene to spread “the word about everything organic”, says owner Simon Lawson. The Agapé Organic Food Truck was the third food truck to hit Sydney’s streets, with Lawson saying “we thought it would be

www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, April 2014 27

a good opportunity to be another extension of our restaurant”. However, the move was more than just a promotional exercise, it “changed our outlook on Sydney dining was moving towards”. “For me it was one of the most exciting things to happen in the Sydney dining scene for years,” he says. “A lot of the time it was just the same kind of thing. “Public response was pretty amazing all the way from the beginning. There was a lot of media when it launched. The public just love it, as it is new and exciting and all the food trucks offer something quite unique and delicious.” The restaurant brings in whole carcasses allowing them to use different cuts in the truck from the restaurant. The food truck menu is always evolving and “adding new things and putting specials on”. “It’s very seasonal with organic produce and we also look at different areas that we trade and what food people want,” he says. “The restaurant and food truck work hand in hand. People come to the truck and taste the food and then come to the restaurant and vice versa – it’s really cool that way.” Around the same time Cantina Movil started serving up burritos, The Bun Mobile hit the streets of Brisbane serving up hand crafted steamed buns to a small but enthusiastic group of foodies. Now with two trucks on the road, this family run business has built a loyal fan base and caught the attention of the international media including The New York Times. Owned and operated by chef Harold

Fleming and his wife Christine, they have since been joined by stepson Daniel Clark and his wife Natasha McCarthy. With decades of restaurant experience behind him, Fleming was hooked by the food truck concept as he has “always thought outside the square where it comes to food”. Despite being Brisbane’s first gourmet food truck “it didn’t take off straight away”, with social media proving to be a vital tool in getting the word out. “Social media is very important,” he says. “We engaged a young social media consultant who laid out a strategy on how run our business and we have followed that strategy to today.” The Bun Mobile now has 12,500 Facebook followers and 2000 Twitter followers, and as well as a mobile app which shows where the trucks are serving, what specials they are doing and any news of the day. “Because we have constantly changing locations we need to post on social media at a critical time saying where we will be and what are our specials,” he says. “We post our specials every day and take a photograph of ourselves in our kitchen so people can see what it is.” Both trucks offer three classic buns with slow cooked pork, wagyu and chicken, along with daily specials. “This week we have four new specials coming on board and that’s what drives our business forward because our followers on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram want to see us do something different,” he adds. “Anybody who sends us a message via social media we

The fit out of food trucks involved in Sydney’s pilot programme cost between $78,000 to $150,000 on average. The annual average continuing running cost, excluding staff and food, was more than $71,000.

28 Open House, April 2014 www.openhousemagazine.net

answer within two hours. It’s a business that you need to be right on top of all the time and it seems to be working pretty well for us and we are having a lot of fun with it.” When it comes to running the food trucks, Fleming says that it is no different to running a bricks and mortar business, with the team working Tuesday to Saturday. “We still have to hold the same licences as a restaurant,” he says. “Out trucks are like small version of a café kitchen. We have a central kitchen where we do our preparation. A local Asian baker makes our buns for us and our meats are sous-vide and then chilled before we slice them into nice big chunks of wagyu or pork belly. We have grills and steam ovens on the vans, so everything is finished off there as it is made

fresh to order.” With business booming Fleming looked at franchising but opted not to go down that road as “we lose control of everything”. “We put a lot of thought into what we do,” he says. “There is about the same amount of work running a food truck as there is running a successful restaurant. “Once you get more than you can handle you start to lose the quality. We are producing a product that is restaurant standard, good quality food for under $10. Trying to keep that food cost manageable is an art in itself. Producing something that the general public is going to go ‘wow I like that’ and have 200 people turning up every night for dinner you really have to have something special and we have hit the nail on the head there.” OH

Watch the video in the Open House iPad app.

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The Bun Mobile’s sous vide pork belly 2 tablespoons kosher salt 1 litre water 1kg pork belly with skin on 200ml stock from sous vide pork 100ml dark soy 100ml Usukchi Shoyu 100ml Hinode Mirin 4 star anise 1 heaped tsp 5 spice powder 1 tbsp chopped fresh ginger

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Pork Combine salt and water to make brine mixture. Place pork in brine mixture for 12 hours. Remove pork from liquid and pat dry. Place into cryovac bag and seal, ready to sous vide. Preheat water circulator to 63oC and submerge pork. Slow cook for 24 hours. Remove pork and rest. Braising liquid Combine stock, dark soy, Usukchi Shoyu, Hinode Mirin star anise, 5 spice powder and ginger. Slice pork and place in liquid. Slowly simmer for 30 minutes. Serve in a steam bun, with pickled mustard greens, butter lettuce, sugared peanuts, fresh coriander, orange and ginger hoisin.

Entry is for teams of two with both entrants under 25 years on 30th September 2014 (must not have a birth date before 30th September 1989). Entrants must be residents of Australia. For full entry details, go to nestle-goldenchefs.com.au. Regional cook-offs scheduled between June & July 2014. National cook-off to be held in Melbourne in September.

www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, April 2014 29

AGED CARE

“We also take into account the aesthetic quality of the food and the variety. We look beyond just nutrition and into whether the meals meet social and cultural needs as well. Even down to things as simple as making sure that a dinner plate doesn’t just have steamed fish, mashed potato and cauliflower on it, but that there is a range of textures, colours and variety across the week so that things are presented as appealingly as they can.” Some facilities have resident focus groups who regularly give feedback to the kitchen team on the menu. But the feedback can go beyond the food into the external factors that relate to the whole eating experience.

See video and recipes in the Open House iPad app.

Balancing act Baby boomers are changing the landscape in aged care facilities, bringing with them higher expectations of their food, writes Sheridan Randall.

hefs servicing the aged care sector face all the regular challenges of their colleagues in the cooking world, with the added pressure of making sure menus cater to the dietary requirements of residents as well. “The first challenge they face is monetary in keeping to a budget,” says Karen Martin, senior dietitian at Leading Nutrition. “The second challenge they face is that it is institutionalised cooking and you have people coming in from home who are used to cooking in a certain way in a domestic kitchen.” These challenges have been further heightened by the arrival of the baby boomer generation in the aged care sector who “have very high expectations of what they want their food to be like and how they think their

needs are going to be catered for”. “The way it is tackled best is by chefs that are 100 per cent committed and who have a real resident focus and are really caring and nurturing, seeing their role as part of the care given to the residents,” she says. Leading Nutrition services over 150 Aged Care Facilities across the country with their dietitians working alongside chefs to review and plan their menus. “If we do a menu review at an aged care home, to make sure the menu is meeting the residents nutritional needs, we look at what is being produced across the day, the week and the month and make sure it is nutritionally balanced and complete,” Martin says.

Tools of the trade Unilever’s Celebrate Food Toolkit features 100 inspiring recipes that have been costed and nutritionally analysed. Also included are themed posters and table talkers to help create a social occasion around meal times to encourage resident engagement. To request your free kit visit www.ufs.com.

30 Open House, April 2014 www.openhousemagazine.net

“The way the dining room is presented, how homely and welcoming things are,” Martin adds. “There are a whole range of things that link into a resident’s enjoyment of the meal. Certainly it is massive thing for residents as it one of the last things they retain an interest in and have control of, so they like to give lots of feedback about the meals.” Last year Unilever Food Solutions held an initial trial of a new Celebrate Food Toolkit to determine the needs of aged care chefs and operators including recipes, costing and nutritional advice. The trial proved so successful that Unilever officially launched the Celebrate Food Toolkit recently to provide practical advice for chefs on creating meals residents will enjoy. Aged care service providers PresCare took part in the trial with executive chef Scott Fraser (pictured right with one of PresCare’s residents) an enthusiastic advocate for the concept. “We serve around 9000 restaurant quality meals to residents every week so planning is incredibly important,” Fraser says. “We spend three months writing new recipes, planning meals and engaging with residents, families, customers and staff to find out what they would like and what they think of the meals, and produce a menu from there.” As the population ages and more people are requiring aged care services, it increases the diversity of clients and the diversity of their food requirements. “Traditionally aged care meals have been quite simple, meat and three veg,” he says. “Now people are keen to have curries and pasta and other cultures’ dishes, so we need to ensure that variety is covered off in the menu. “For many residents, meal times are the highlight of their day, so it’s our goal to make that as visually and gastronomically appealing as possible.” OH

TALKING HEAD

Golden opportunity Keaton McDonnell, the 26-year-old head chef at Canberra's Pulp Kitchen, is a two time National Finalist in the Nestlé Golden Chef’s Hat Competition. Open House spoke with him about his decision to send two of his young kitchen team on the same path. with all eyes on you! It's mostly about the expectations you have for yourself. OH: As their head chef, what's the benefit of your young chefs competing?

OH: What did you gain from competing in the Nestlé Golden Chef’s Hat Competition (in 2008 and 2010)? McDonnell: Networking and the chance to test myself against other chefs. OH: Was it daunting the first time? McDonnell: Totally! Having judges watch you is pretty intense. It's like being in a work environment only with more excitement and adrenaline – like any other service but

McDonnell: It's a big confidence booster and an opportunity for them to go out and be judged on what they do, see what other chefs are doing and how they compare. I find my apprentices have a lot more self-confidence when they get back. OH: How do you rate their chances? McDonnell: They've started practicing already! [They have] come up with some good ideas and they're both really good chefs so if they're smart about it they should be fine.

McDonnell: Treat it like any other day but [be] 10 times cleaner! Those cleanliness points always make the difference in my experience. OH

Team Pulp Matthew Breis, 23, finished his apprenticeship with McDonnell at Pulp Kitchen and now works at the Commonwealth Club of Canberra. “This year is my third year competing in the Nestlé Golden Chef's Hat and I am more passionate and determined than ever.” Adam Hazelton, 18, 2nd year apprentice at Pulp Kitchen. “I am always looking to learn more."

OH: What’s your advice for them on the day?

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The information in this document is general in nature and does not consider any of your objectives, financial situation or needs. Before acting on this information, you should consider obtaining advice from a licensed financial adviser and consider the appropriateness of this information, having regard to your particular investment needs, objectives and financial situation. You should obtain a copy of the HOSTPLUS Product Disclosure Statement and consider the information contained in the Statement before making any decision about whether to acquire an interest in HOSTPLUS. Issued by Host-Plus Pty Limited ABN 79 008 634 704, AFSL No. 244392, RSEL No. L0000093, MySuper No. 68657495890198, HOSTPLUS Superannuation Fund ABN 68 657 495 890, RSE No. R1000054. For further information on Chant West ratings visit http://hostplus.com.au/info/chant-west-disclaimer HARDWIREAGENCY HOST7769/HM/TB

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www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, April 2014 31

REGIONAL SNAPSHOT

2 1 Well-known cook Maggie Beer at Barossa Farmers Markets. 2 The Barossa Farmers Market is a great place to find locally made goods. 3 A dish from award-winning restaurant Appellation at The Louise. 4 The region is most famous for producing Shiraz. 4

The Barossa Valley The Barossa Valley in South Australia offers a smorgasbord of fresh and value added produce for chefs, writes Ylla Watkins. Just an hour’s drive north east of Adelaide, the Barossa Valley has a warm Mediterranean climate that makes it one of the state’s most bountiful food baskets, with everything from olives and stone fruits such as apricots, peaches and plums, to eggplants, zucchini and herbs thriving here. The local wineries are best-known for their Shiraz, however growing conditions also lend themselves to varieties including Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Viognier and Semillon. What makes the region most interesting however is its strong German heritage, which is most evident in the preponderance of smokehouses and traditional small goods

such as Lachschinken, Kassler and Mettwust still produced in the region. Arguably the Barossa’s best-known foodie, Maggie Beer, runs her food empire from her Farm Shop in Nurioopta, producing a range of specialty foods including pates, fruit pastes, jams and preserves, verjuice and icecream which is sold nationally. A popular stop for visitors to the Barossa Valley and locals alike is the Barossa Farmers Market, held every Saturday from 7.30-11.30am in the old Vintners Sheds at Angaston. Goods for sale range from justpicked seasonal produce to Waechter’s Pekin ducks, Barossa Farm Produce corn fed chickens (produced by Maggie Beer’s

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daughter Saskia Beer), hand-crafted Wiech’s Barossa Valley Egg Noodles and the Careme Pastry range. Ryan Edwards from award-winning restaurant Appellation at The Louise, located in nearby Marananga, is a regular face at the markets. “Going to the markets is absolutely the best sense of season that you can get,” he says. “You not only see how the quality of fruit and vegetables changes throughout the year, but you also get a sense of where in the Barossa some things grow better than others. Being able to communicate directly with the actual farmers is the best part.”

DIARY DATES Tasting Australia April 27 - May 4, 2014

VIEW FROM THE KITCHEN

One of Australia’s best festivals, the program features more than 75 events to be held throughout Adelaide and South Australia. International guests include US farmer and local food activist Joel Salatin, UK-based chef Skye Gyngell and Fergus Henderson, known for his “nose to tail” food philosophy. www.tastingaustralia.com.au

Noosa International Food & Wine Festival May 15 - 18, 2014

Ryan Edwards, executive chef, Appellation at The Louise

Favourite seasonal ingredient to work with? Right now I would have to say quince; the depth of smell and taste of cooked quince is intoxicating, plus they have so many uses both savoury and sweet.

Best thing about the Barossa Valley? The sense of seasonality and being a part of the environment. The changing seasons shows you how quickly time can pass.

Most under-rated ingredient? Any fruit that has been left to full ripeness where it was grown; any vegetable that has never seen refrigeration and is used simply and with care. 4

Must-have kitchen gadget? I love ice cream; a good ice cream machine is a must in any kitchen.

5 6

Secret food indulgence? Kraft Smooth Peanut Butter is a food for any moment.

Food heroes? Michel and Sebastien Bras, for their sense of place in the Aubrac plateau, for their care with ingredients, and their artistry on the plate.

More than 250 invited chefs, producers, winemakers and media are set to descend on Noosa in Queensland this May. The Festival will host some of Australia and the World's best chefs including Franck-Elie Laloum (Shanghai), Alvin Leung (Hong Kong) and David Thompson (Bangkok). www.noosafoodandwine.com.au

Savour Tasmania May 21 - 25, 2014

Career highlight? Working with Peter Gilmore for a Henschke wines dinner here at Appellation at the Louise.

Best advice you’ve ever been given in the kitchen? Work cleaner, neater and faster. OH

This state-wide festival combines premium Tasmanian produce with global culinary expertise. Headlining this year's event is chef Will Meyrick from Sarong restaurant in Bali, recently named Best Restaurant in Indonesia in the S.Pellegrino Asia's Top 50 restaurants awards. Don’t miss guest chef masterclasses for the hospitality industry. www.savourtasmania.com.au

www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, April 2014 33

COOKING THE BOOKS

One-handed hero Empanadas are the ultimate “fast casual” street food, tasty, satisfying and easy to eat on the run. Here, Argentinian chefs Enrique Zanoni and Gaston Stivelmaher share the classic recipe that’s become one of their signature dishes.

Clasico Argentino

fold over into a half-moon shape. Seal the edges and give them the ‘carne’ decoration or an edging of your choice. Set aside in the refrigerator if not cooking immediately.

Preparation time: 40 minutes Resting time (optional): 24 hours Cooking time: 50 minutes Makes 20 empanadas

Arrange the empanadas on a baking tray lined with baking paper. Brush with egg yolk and bake for 20 minutes, or until golden and cooked. Allow them to cool for a few minutes before serving.

Dough 1 quantity of classic dough (see box)

“Carne” decoration

Filling 2 onions, sliced 1 red capsicum, sliced Sunflower oil Salt, black pepper 500g minced beef 1 tablespoon aji molido* or 2 teaspoons of chilli flakes 1½ tablespoons ground cumin 3 teaspoons paprika 3 teaspoons ground cinnamon 6 spring onions, green part only, chopped

Once the empanada has been shaped into a half-moon and the edges are well sealed, fold the edges over themselves 13 consecutive times, from one end to the other. Classic dough (for baking) 1 Cut 325g of unsalted butter into small cubes. Sift 1kg of plain (all-purpose) flour into a large bowl. Add 25g of salt and the cubes of butter. 2 Rub the butter into the flour and salt with your hands until you have a sandy texture with no lumps.

*aji molido: A very common condiment in Argentinian cuisine, made from dried capsicum flakes. It can be found in Argentinian grocery stores.

Glaze 3 egg yolks, beaten

3 Add 350ml of water and combine with the flour mixture using your hands. Add a little more water if necessary. Knead the dough on a lightly floured work surface for 10–15 minutes.

Sauté the onion and capsicum in a saucepan with a little oil over low heat for 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Remove the vegetables from the saucepan and set aside.

4 Form into a ball. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours.

To the same saucepan, add a little more oil and sauté the meat over high heat. Once the meat has browned, reduce heat to low and add the onion and capsicum. Continue cooking for about 15 minutes, stirring from time to time. Stir in the aji molido, if using, cumin, paprika and cinnamon and mix well. Let the filling rest for 24 hours in the refrigerator, if possible, for a more intense flavour. Stir the spring onion into the mixture before assembling the empanadas. Preheat the oven to 190°C. Sprinkle a little flour on the work surface.

Roll out the dough to a thickness of 3 mm, and cut out circles with a 14cm cutter. Using a 60ml ice-cream scoop or measuring cup, form small balls of filling and place one on each round of dough. Lightly moisten the edge of the dough with a little water and

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This is an edited recipe from Argentinian street food: empanadas, helados and dulche de leche by Enrique Zanoni and Gaston Stivelmaher (Murdoch Books, $29.99).

What’s on shelf this month? Healthy every day

Flavours of Melbourne

Huxtabook

by Pete Evans Pan Macmillan, $39.99

by Jonette George and Ethan Jenkins Smudge Publishing $69.99

by Daniel Wilson Hardie Grant Books, $49.95

Co-host Pete Evans may not get much control of the menu on reality TV cooking show My Kitchen Rules, but in real life the chef favours fresh, healthy food that not only tastes delicious but leaves you feeling great after you finish eating. In this new book, Evans shares his favourite recipes for healthy and vitality, inspired by “the Paleo lifestyle”, with the emphasis on lots of fresh veggies, nuts and seafood, seafood ad meat and free of fgluten, sugar and dairy. Stand out dishes include lighter version of favourites such as curries, burgers and Asian favourites.

Following on from the success of the inaugural Flavours of Melbourne, foodies Jonette George and Ethan Jenkins have released a fully updated second edition. More than just a restaurant guide this visually exciting coffee table book offers behind-the-scenes access to the Victorian capital’s vibrant restaurant and bar scene. Showcasing venues such as Gingerboy, Vue de monde, Silo by Joost, Gin Palace and Sensory Lab, Flavours of Melbourne reveals the stories behind these iconic venues and the dishes that made them famous.

Huxtable in Melbourne’s Fitzroy has been hailed as one of Australia’s most exciting restaurants and chef Daniel Wilson as one to watch. In this, his debut cookbook, he showcases the simple yet delicious dishes he’s become best known for. Organised into Sea, Land and Earth, recipes draw on culinary influences from around the globe, with standouts including hot smoked barramundi with apple kim chi, miso dressing and baby cos, and wagyu beef tatki with roasted shallot and chilli dressing and toasted rice. There’s also a tempting array of "Bites" and "Sweets" to inspire. OH

Get it while it’s hot! Open House is now available as an iPad app, offering even more ways to enjoy industry news, views and feature stories on the key issues and trends affecting the hospitality industry. This exciting free app is packed with bonus extras including recipes, behind-the-scenes videos and interactive features. Updated monthly, the Open House iPad app is available to download free at the iTunes app store or www.openhousemagazine.net.

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PRODUCTS

Cassowary cups

Dark blend

BioPak has teamed with Rainforest Rescue to create a "Save the Cassowary" 8oz single wall BioCup. Aiming to raise awareness and funds to help the endangered bird, which lives only in the tropics of Queensland, BioPak will donate 20 per cent of profits from the cassowary cup sales to Rainforest Rescue to use in its cassowary conservation initiatives. Cups will be available from BioPak, with a minimum order of one carton of 1000 cups. ● www.biopak.com.au

La Maison Cointreau has released the new Cointreau Noir in Australia. Cointreau Noir blends Cointreau orange liquor and fine Champagne cognac, a balance of sweet and bitter orange peels and Rémy Martin cognac. Nuts and almonds, spice, honey and vanilla complete the smooth blend. Available for restaurants and bars, Cointreau Noir will appeal to dark spirit lovers and can be enjoyed alone or in simple cocktails. ● www.cointreau.com

Guilt and gluten free

Pit masters

International pasta producer, Barilla, has added a gluten free option to their range of pastas. The formulation consists of flours that are naturally gluten free, including white maize, yellow maize and rice flour, delivering an “al dente” texture and neutral taste, and has all the characteristics of regular pasta. Barilla’s gluten free pasta, available in spaghetti, elbows and penne, are produced in a dedicated gluten free facility and are available in cases of 12 packs for foodservice. ● www.barillagroup.com

Mad Hunky, a boutique producer from the heart of USA barbeque country, has launched a new range of meat rubs and brines. Applied before cooking, the rubs interact with the heat and juices to create flavoursome meat dishes. The range includes the Mad Hunky General Purpose rub as well as a non salt version. Specialty chicken rubs and pork and poultry brines are also included in the range and are available in various sizes for food service professionals. All of the meat rubs are free from gluten, peanuts, and MSG. ● www.grillpro.com.au

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Nut it out

Bare bottled

Nutella is now available to foodservice professionals in both a 5kg jar and 20g Portion Control Packs. The 5kg jar can be displayed front-of-house or chefs, patissiers and bakers can use it straight from the jar to add a creative twist on popular recipes. The 20g Portion Control Packs are a convenient addition to breakfast buffets and takeaway outlets with no mess, no fuss and no refrigeration required. ● www.ferrero.com.au/foodservice/nutella

Sourced from The Bay of Plenty in New Zealand and bottled directly from an 1800-year-old aquifer, Nakd Water is the latest offering in naturally filtered bottled water with additional health benefits. Classed as “super-soft” and “slightly alkaline”, the water is designed to maintain the body’s acid/alkaline balance for overall good health. Nakd Water is available in bulk orders for bars, restaurants, retail outlets, cafes and entertainment venues. ● www.opj.com.au

Cider satisfaction

Shiso Syrup

Produced from locally grown fruit in Victoria, Cellar D’or has launched Endless Cider into the local cider market. In apple and pear flavours, the ciders are made from 100 per cent crushed apple and pear fruit juice. Made using artisan techniques with fermented champagne yeast, Endless Cider contains no artificial sweeteners or flavours and is vegan friendly and gluten free. Available in fourpacks or 24 bottle cases. ● www.endlesscider.com.au

The Good Grub Hub has added Red Shiso Syrup to their syrup range. The juice, obtained from the Japanese culinary herb shiso is 100 per cent natural with a fresh and slightly sour taste. The syrup is recommended for use in beverages, granitas, sauces, jellies, bavarois and creams or to perfume ganaches, ice creams, sherbets and salad dressings is. There are no additives, preservatives or colouring and are available in 200ml bottles. ● www.thegoodgrubhub.com OH

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PROFILE

Cooking with a conscience Melbourne’s Feast of Merit is a not-for-profit restaurant that’s giving back to the broader community. Ylla Watkins spoke with head chef Ravi Presser about the restaurant’s goals.

hose people who say the Y Generation are the most selfish generation yet may have to eat their words, thanks to notfor-profit organisation YGAP (Y-Generation against poverty). Founded in 2008, the organisation “drives social change through the provision of youth education and youth leadership”, using creative fundraising and innovative social enterprising to support poverty alleviating projects across Australia, Asia and Africa such as building schools, teacher training and supporting women and children at risk of sexual exploitation and trafficking. Amongst the group’s fund raising initiatives so far are the 5 cent campaign, which asked Australians to donate their 5 cent coins, raising $183,468; Photo for Freedom, a photo exhibition which raised public awareness of child slavery and raised more than $76,000 towards YGAP’s project in Ghana; and Kinfolk, a social enterprise café in Melbourne’s CBD which donates 100 per cent of its profits to YGAP’s projects. It was the success of the latter which led the organisation to come up with the idea for new restaurant Feast of Merit in Richmond, according to head chef Ravi Presser. “They came to me about a year and half ago and said, we’re thinking of starting a restaurant and I laughed at them and said, if you think a bunch of volunteers are going to be able to open a fully fledged restaurant for 80 people, you’re kidding yourself,” he says. “Here I am 18 months later eating my words. “It’s been a pretty long haul though, as we’ve all been doing it on a volunteer basis and part time between our day jobs as well.” With the doors finally open, and the staff being paid, Presser says the reception the restaurant has received so far is “beyond expectations”. “The feedback we’ve received has been really good,” he says. “From my perspective we just have to make sure our costings and all of that back-of-house stuff is on target.”

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In keeping with YGAP’s overall philosophy, Feast of Merit’s Middle Eastern-inspired menu uses seasonal produce from local producers, with Presser working directly with small to medium growers in many cases. Dishes featuring vegetables, grains and pulses form the core of the menu. At lunch, inspired by the Ottelenghi restaurants in the UK, the restaurant serves a selection of salads, with protein (charred Hopkins beef, roasted Milawa chicken and barbecued market fish) ordered separately. “Having travelled through England and America, and New York in particular, I’d noticed that people were becoming a lot more considerate about what they’re putting in their bodies,” Presser says. “They want to know a lot more about where their produce is from, and they want to eat a lot less meat and protein. We do offer protein but I definitely wanted to see vegetables, grains and pulses shine, as opposed to the other way around.” Keeping expensive proteins to a minimum allows the restaurant to keep prices down, making it accessible to as many people as possible, while maximising funds raised for YGAP’s projects. Everything used in the restaurant, from furniture to toilet paper, is sustainable where possible. For Presser, who saw YGAP’s work first hand when he travelled to Rwanda with a group of volunteers to help build classrooms, the project is about giving back to the community. “I’ve worked in this industry for about 14 years, with some really good chefs, and some inspiring people who have got me to where I am now, but it’s really unforgiving,” he says. “The hours are tough, it’s unsocial, all that sort of stuff. It’s nice to be able to get up in the morning and know you’re not just working for a boss to make them richer. “I really believe there is a strong future for social enterprises such as this one.” OH

AUSTRALIAN CULINARY FEDERATION NEWS

Looking to the future I

t is a great honour and quite humbling to be appointed to the position of National President of the largest and most active Chefs Association in Australia. I have been involved with the Australian Culinary Federation (ACF) for many years and have watched the Association develop and strengthen under the last two Presidents, Peter Wright and Glenn Austin. Both have laid strong foundations for myself and the National Executive to take the next steps in evolving the Association to reflect the diverse industry we work in. Our primary focus will be on growing our membership, maintaining and establishing sponsorship, social and education programs for our future chefs and ensuring the financial security of the ACF. I personally wish to see ACF growth in regional centres. We will do this by forming branches in country areas across Australia, creating a National Congress for Chefs and further developing our school programs. We will continue to

work with all State Presidents and Committee members to ensure the success of our culinary competitions and actively promote for more industry professional events in all states. I would like to congratulate the Brisbane ACF Chapter on the successful outcome of Fine Food Brisbane. The energy, time and effort from all of those who were involved in the organisation of the event is much appreciated. On behalf of the committee and members I would also like to extend my congratulations to the National Team of Shane Keighley, Shannon Kellam, Royston Clark, Rodney Turnbull, John Ralley, and Matt Weller for their tireless efforts in the Food & Hotel Asia Culinary Competition held in Singapore revently. Last but not least, I would like to thank Peter for his many years of service to the ACF and its Members. This is a voluntary position that requires hours of work each week, and

PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE

Neil Abrahams Australian Culinary Federation (ACF)

at times it is a thankless task and takes you away from your family. Peter, you have been a true professional and we thank you for your service to this wonderful industry. OH

ON THE MOVE InterContinental Sanctuary Cove Resort has appointed Luke Mitchell to the role of director of food & beverage. He most recently spent four months as assistant food & beverage manager at InterContinental Fiji Golf Resort & Spa before joining the Sanctuary Cove team.

Crowne Plaza Terrigal has appointed of four new people to its team. Logan Daley is the new food & beverage manager; Simon Quick (pictured) is the new executive sous chef; and Sean Bugledich and Dana Chantler join the team as senior sous chefs.

Matthew Kemp has joined Q Station Manly as an ambassador chef, assisting with the hotel’s culinary concept at Boilerhouse Restaurant. Matthew was formerly the chef de cuisine at the nowdefunct Banc and senior head chef at The Keystone Group.

Kruno Velican has been appointed executive chef at The Sheraton Melbourne Hotel’s new bistro-style restaurant Little Collins St Kitchen. Velican was previously executive chef at The Westin, Sydney, and worked at Bistro Esplanade in Zagreb.

Park Hyatt Sydney has appointed Franck Detrait as executive chef at its signature restaurant The Dining Room. French born Detrait brings with him years of experience garnered from working in Europe and the Middle East.

Merivale has appointed Jacob Davey (pictured) as head chef of est. Davey was named the 2013 Young Australian Chef of the Year at the Electrolux Appetite for Excellence Awards. Merivale has also appointed Richard Purdue as executive chef at Merivale Events.

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