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For more than 40 years Open House Foodservice has been the magazine the hospitality industry turns to when it needs credible, up-to-date information. In every issue, Open House brings readers the latest news affecting the industry, investigates the issues everyone’s talking about, profiles key movers and shakers, and rounds-up the hottest new foodservice products available.

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OPEN HOUSE NEWS

StreetSmart calls on cafes to join CafeSmart 2013

A

ustralian cafes are being asked to throw their support behind the third annual CafeSmart initiative on Friday, June 7, 2013, and help combat homelessness in their local community.

StreetSmart chief executive Adam Robinson wants cafe owners, their staff and drinkers to support the initiative, which sees a dollar for every coffee sold going towards funding local grassroots projects around Australia.

Last year, 232 cafes and 14 coffee roasters helped raise $74,477, up from $47,477 in 2011, which went towards funding 56 community grants. This year Robinson is hoping to top this figure.

“We are extremely proud of last year’s achievement and are excited to be running the third annual CafeSmart event,” he said. “This year we will be encouraging the public to match the café’s dollar at the point of purchase, this way we will be able to fund even more projects.

‘Drink Coffee Do Good’ is something we will also be encouraging on the day!”

StreetSmart will be teaming up with coffee roasters around Australia again this year, including Allpress, Campos, Coffee Supreme, Danes, Di Bella, Dimattina, Five Senses, Gigante, Gridlock, Merlo, Single Origin, St Ali/Sensory Lab and Veneziano, who will be supporting cafes by supplying discounted coffee beans on the day.

To register visit www.streetsmartaustralia.org.

Dimmi partners with TripAdvisor Following a new partnership between Australian restaurant booking website Dimmi and travel website TripAdvisor, travellers from around the world will be able to make real-time reservations for Australian restaurants directly.

CONTENTS

Travellers can now gain access to real-time restaurant bookings via Dimmi on the TripAdvisor website and mobile application, enabling them to discover and book

Editor’s word

A

utumn is my favourite time of the year, with its crisp mornings, warm, clear days and cool nights that have you reaching for a jumper; it’s also the time of year when thoughts turn to making over menus in favour of rich, flavoursome braises, slow-cooked meats and winter-warming puddings.

Reworking menus for the cooler months not only allows you to satisfy customers’ cravings for the food equivalent of a warm hug, but also allows you to keep ingredient costs to a minimum. Not only do economical secondary cuts lend themselves to slow cooking techniques, but local in-season fruit and vegetables will be less expensive and far tastier than imported produce. And there’s plenty to choose from, ranging from root veggies such as parsnip, turnip and Jerusalem artichoke, to brassica including kale, kohlrabi and Brussels sprouts, and tangy rhubarb.

Contented customers and a healthy bottom line? Who could ask for anything more.

restaurants while they are researching their trip.

The feature has also been added into TripAdvisor’s City Guides, available for Sydney and Melbourne, which offer destination information even when the traveller is offline.

“By partnering with TripAdvisor we can now help introduce Australian restaurants to a whole new market segment, that of the interstate and international traveller,” said Dimmi founder and CEO Stevan Premutico.

Industry news......................................... 04

Foodservice Australia............................. 16

Cover story – Sara Lee Tray Cakes..... 08

Volume catering..................................... 18

Profile – Frank Brunacci........................ 10

Desserts.................................................. 22

Origins of cupcakes................................ 12

Cooking the books................................. 26

Consultant chef...................................... 12

Products................................................. 28

Sustainability......................................... 14

Culinary clippings.................................. 30

Ylla Wright Managing Editor @ohfoodservice

22

Desserts.

www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, May 2013 3

NEWS

Alain Ducasse honoured preceded me and to whom I feel the heir and successor. At the same time, I still feel like a young man and remain much more interested by the work to be done than by that already accomplished.”

Chef stabs customer after complaint A Sydney chef has been charged by police after he allegedly stabbed a customer with a metal skewer when he complained about the service at a restaurant in Sydney’s west.

The chef will face court this month charged with reckless wounding following the altercation at Red Chilli restaurant in Lakemba on March 31.

Police said five men were at the restaurant when they made a complaint about how long it had taken to deliver their meals. After an argument broke out between the men and staff, a chef allegedly retrieved a long metal skewer from the kitchen and began threatening the men with it.

The altercation spilled out onto the street, before the customers walked away and the chef returned inside.

I

conic French chef Alain Ducasse (pictured above) has been awarded the Lifetime Achievement Award, part of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards 2013. The award acknowledges not only Ducasse’s reputation for innovative French cuisine but also his influence over many of the current generation of chefs and restaurateurs around the world.

Since being awarded three Michelin stars at the age 33 for his Le Louis XV at the Hôtel de Paris in Monaco, Ducasse has gone on to become one of the world’s most decorated chefs and the first to have been awarded three Michelin stars in three different cities.

Alain Ducasse Entreprise, the group founded by Ducasse, comprises more than 20 restaurants around the world, three inns in Europe, an independent hotel association, a culinary publishing house, an international education division with a cooking school for all in Paris, as well as a pastry school for professionals and amateurs alike and a culinary training centre for chefs.

The Lifetime Achievement Award is voted for by industry experts from across the globe – chefs, restaurateurs, food writers and critics and well-travelled gourmets – and as such “is an acknowledgement from the restaurant world itself of chef Ducasse’s achievements and positive influence”, according to the awards’ organisers.

In accepting the award Ducasse paid credit to the chefs who’d gone before him.

“My first thought goes to Paul Bocuse, this award’s very first recipient,” he said. “Through him, I also think of the generations of chefs who have

However police say the chef went back outside and attempted to strike one of the men with the skewer. The skewer pierced the palm of a 47-year-old man and exited through the other side of his hand.

The wounded man was taken to the Sydney Hospital, which specialises in hand injuries, for surgery.

‘The Boss’ raises money for Foodbank Bruce “The Boss” Springsteen, has helped raise $37,000 for food rescue organisation Foodbank during three Sydney concerts which formed part of his recent Wrecking Ball Tour.

Springsteen became Foodbank’s new best friend by providing the organisation with two VIP tickets for each of his shows at Allphones Arena to auction, with all proceeds going to Foodbank NSW to help feed Australians in need.

In addition, Springsteen took time out of his show to do an on-stage shout out for Foodbank and assisted with the organisation collecting donations from concert goers as they arrived and left the venue.

on the quantity, according to New Zealand soil scientist Graham Shepherd.

The scientist, who will travel to Australia this month as part of an Australian Organic roadshow, says not enough is done to improve the quality of food we are growing compared to the time we spend trying to increase yields and maximise food production.

“Generally the food we’re producing today is less nutrient-dense than a few decades ago and this by and large comes down to soil management,” he says.

Shepherd aims to help farmers and graziers learn how to read the quality of their soils by looking at them. Visual assessments can tell you about the condition of the soil and its suitability to grow crops, not only in terms of production but also the quality of pasture or crop, according to Shepherd.

Entries open for Thierry Marx award Apprentice chefs from Victoria are invited to apply for the Thierry Marx Career Development Award 2013.

The award will give two young chefs the opportunity to travel to Paris and work for four weeks under the guidance of dual Michelinstarred chef Thierry Marx at his restaurant Sur Mesure at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel Paris.

Entry is via written submission, including recipes, photos and a written nomination, from which six finalists will be shortlisted. The six finalists will prepare and present their dishes to the judging panel, who, as well as assessing culinary skills, will interview entrants, and score them on complementary areas such as motivation, attitude, presentation and teamwork.

Marx, often called one of the pioneers of modern gastronomy, created the award to encourage and reward culinary excellence, and to foster connections between young chefs in different countries.

RACV City Club Melbourne apprentice Beth Candy, who won the award in 2012 with Melanie Sheard from Zinc at Federation Square, said working in Marx’s Paris restaurant was “an unforgettable experience”.

Entries for this year’s award close on June 7, 2013.

The money will pay for 17,000 meals for those in need, according to Gerry Anderson, chief executive of Foodbank NSW.

Unilever on track for sustainability target

Scientist urges farmers to focus on quality

Unilever in the US has announced that it is now sourcing more than a third of its agricultural raw materials sustainably, having made significant progress towards its target of 100 per cent by 2020.

Farmers need to put as much emphasis on the quality of food they are producing as they do

4 Open House, May 2013 www.openhousemagazine.net

With 36 per cent of produce now sourced

sustainably, it has exceeded the interim milestone of 30 per cent it set itself in 2010 when launching the Unilever Sustainable Living Plan.

“Climate change, water scarcity, unsustainable farming practices, and rising populations all threaten agricultural supplies and food security,” said Marc Engel, chief procurement officer.

“Half of the raw materials Unilever buys are from the farming and forestry industries, so ensuring a secure supply of these materials is a major business issue.”

Nestlé in top 10 most reputable companies

study by reputation management consultancy Reputation Institute.

“Nestlé has a strong reputation with consumers around the world,” said Kasper Ulf Nielsen, an executive partner at Reputation Institute.

“Consumers trust, admire and are willing to support Nestlé because the company is seen to deliver on expectations within all seven dimensions of reputation; from high quality products to fair business practices, good social responsibility and strong financial results.

“The leading companies work with reputation as an integrated part of their business and Nestlé is a good example of the business benefit a strong reputation can give if managed well.”

Foodservice supplier Nestlé has been named one of the top 10 most reputable companies in the world in the annual “Global RepTrak 100” study. The company achieved ninth place in the study, which is designed to understand how organisations build trust and support with the general public worldwide.

It is the first time Nestlé has ranked in the top 10, moving up three places from last year to become the highest scoring food and beverage company in the 2013 study.

More than 55,000 consumers from the world’s 15 biggest economies were interviewed for the

Golinski speaks out Matt Golinski, the Queenslandbased chef who lost his wife and three young daughters in a house fire on Boxing Day 2011, suffering third degree burns to 40 per cent of his body, has spoken publicly for the first time since the tragedy.

In the interview with Channel 7’s Today Tonight, Golinski said he was “doing the best I can”.

“I take it day by day,” he continued. “That’s all you can really do at the end of the day. You know, I do have the love of the nation behind me and all the support and it’s great. I’m really appreciative of it and I’ve just got to focus on that, focus on getting myself fit and healthy and keeping my mind healthy.”

The chef recently ran in his first ultramarathon, Western Australia’s gruelling Cape to Cape, covering 137km in a relay team with five other runners, to raise money and awareness for the Peter Hughes Burns Foundation.

Bronze for Australia in Copper Skillet Australian Jason Palermo (pictured above), from Sydney’s MGSM Executive Hotel & Conference Centre, has come third in the International Association of Conference Centers (IACC) “Copper Skillet” Conference Centre Chef of the Year award, earning a bronze medal.

Palermo was narrowly beaten by chef Pascal Marcin of Dolce LaHulpe in Belgium, and silver medal winner Shane Brassel of Charles F. Knight Executive Education & Conference Center in the US. Chefs were presented with a mystery basket filled with fresh produce, grains and protein ingredients to use in their preparation. Each chef was given 15 minutes to review the items and plan their dish, and then 30 minutes for the cook-off.

Judging criteria included originality of the creation, presentation, texture, flavour combinations and hygiene standard of the work area.

IACC’s Copper Skillet competition was introduced in 2004 to highlight the artistry and skill of the best chefs from IACC-member conference centres around the world.

New program for job seekers

The program’s facilitators say that the Licence 4 Work will give participants an “edge” when applying for casual or part time jobs within pubs, clubs, restaurants, cafes, catering operations and hotels for example and will offer experience in practical settings, meet NSW legislative industry requirements and a certificate from William Angliss Institute.

Report shows signs of recovery in US After an extended downturn linked to the global financial crisis, the US restaurant industry is showing signs of recovery, according to a new report from foodservice consultancy Technomic.

According to data released by the company, the 500 largest US restaurant chains registered a 4.9 per cent annual sales increase in 2012, a marked improvement over 3.5 per cent the prior year, growing from US$242 billion in 2011 to US$252 billion in 2012.

“It is certainly encouraging to see overall industry growth rates return to levels not seen since 2007,” said Ron Paul, president of Technomic. “On a chain-by-chain basis, however, performance still varies substantially, as organisations continue adapting their value proposition to meet consumer demands, and refining operations to meet various industry challenges.”

Among limited-service restaurants, the highest growth came from the Asian, Bakery Café and Mexican categories. McDonald’s, the largest US restaurant chain, boosted sales 4.2 per cent in 2012, with total annual sales of US$35.6 billion.

Full-service restaurants experienced a 2.9 per cent sales increase in 2012, a marginal increase over 2.8 per cent seen in 2011. The full-service steak and seafood categories continued to show healthy growth, with increases of 5.9 and 4.5 per cent, respectively. In total, the top 10 fastest-growing chains’ sales accounted for US$10.3 billion, a 22 per cent increase over 2011.

However, international performance by the Top 500 restaurant chains continued to outperform their US counterparts in 2012, with international sales increasing by 5.6 per cent.

Show time for SA South Australian chefs are invited to see, try and buy the latest products and services of more than 200 foodservice suppliers at this year’s Hotel & Restaurant Trade Show presented by the Australian Hotels Association SA and Restaurant & Catering SA.

William Angliss Institute’s Industry Training Centre Sydney will launch Licence 4 Work in July, an innovative new program designed to assist people to gain employment in the hospitality industry.

The biennial trade expo will be held at the Goyder Pavilion, Adelaide Showground, from May 28-29, and feature a wide range of suppliers including food and beverage, furniture, fit outs, catering equipment, hospitality supplies, point of sale equipment, and cleaning products.

Components of the program include Responsible Conduct of Gaming, Café/Barista Skills, Responsible Service of Alcohol, Introduction to Bar Skills and Follow Workplace Hygiene Procedures.

Visitors will also be able to check out the Best SA Hotel Burger competition, cooking demonstrations by leading chefs, and a TAFE SA demonstration and information area. OH

6 Open House, May 2013 www.openhousemagazine.net

cover story

Tangy treat Sara Lee’s new Lemon Cake brings a new citrus tang to its versatile range of Classic Tray Cakes.

L

emon is one of the most popular cake and dessert flavours in Australia, with its refreshing tang of citrus a match made in heaven when combined in a sweet dessert.

coconut flakes, Sara Lee’s Lemon Cake is also a tasty dessert option with ice-cream, custard or yoghurt on the side.

So it comes as no surprise that Sara Lee has introduced a new Lemon Cake to its Tray Cake family. The traditionally light, lemon flavoured sponge and the smooth icing made with real lemon puree create a great tasting treat that is sure to delight.

Baked fresh every day using only the finest and freshest ingredients, including eggs and cream, and the best seasonal fruit available, Sara Lee’s Tray Cakes are snap frozen to seal in the maximum level of freshness, nutritional value and that “just baked” moment.

Perfect as is or topped with lemon peel, fresh mint leaves, almond or

Sara Lee’s dedicated team of pastry chefs work from traditional recipes,

8 Open House, May 2013 www.openhousemagazine.net

with their cakes having no added artificial colours, flavours and preservatives wherever possible.

The new Lemon Cake joins Sara Lee’s Tray Cake range of Banana Cake, Orange Cake, Chocolate Cake, Carrot Cake, Hummingbird Cake, Sultana Cake, Un-iced Chocolate Brownie, Chocolate Mud Cake and White Chocolate and Raspberry Cake, which come in a convenient thaw-and-serve format and flexible portion sizes. All the Tray Cakes come in 30x40cm trays and can

easily be portioned to meet every need, with 70 4x4cm serves from one tray for morning tea or 32 7.5x5cm serves for dessert.

Serve as is or decorate for any occasion, these versatile and tempting cakes are the prefect option for foodservice operators looking for convenience and quality. The possibilities are endless; simply thaw and serve – if only everything in life was this easy. OH

Profile

Michelin star’s black gold He may have found success in the US, where he won a Michelin Star at Sixteen in Chicago, but Australian born chef Frank Brunacci’s passion is for ingredients from home, especially truffles, writes Jacqueline O’Neill.

Star status in 2010.

Meeting Donald Trump soon after the restaurant earned its rating, he recalls the tycoon asking, “So, is it true that to get a table here on a Saturday night you have to book months ahead?”. When Brunacci responded “Yes”, he turned to his kids and said, “Hear that? Months to get a table here; isn’t that great!”

“Needless to say it was a great first meeting,” Brunacci says.

Whilst working at Sixteen, Brunacci also took on the role of executive chef for Chicago’s Australia Day Ball, consulting with the Australian Consulate General regularly.

It was in this role that he first came across Australian “winter” perigord truffles and specifically The Wine and Truffle Company of Western Australia.

“They were looking for someone to sell and distribute their truffles and so had sent me some oils and butters to try,” he says.

US-based chef Frank Brunacci.

F

rank Brunacci’s love of food began at age 14 when he got his first job in Neptune’s pizza restaurant in St Albans, Melbourne. Fast forward 10 years or so and Brunacci had worked in London at Les Saveurs, completed a short stint at the Relais du Bois Saint Georges in Saintes, France, and was on his way to Atlanta in the US to take on the role of sous chef at the Ritz Carlton.

In 2007 Brunacci was approached by Trump International and offered the position of executive chef at the Trump Hotel and Tower Chicago.

“I remember the email I got from the Trump Corporation asking me to fly to Chicago to do a tasting,” he says. “I had no kitchen to work from as the Trump building was in its final stages of being built, so I called in a few favours and found a kitchen on the opposite side of the street and did my tasting there. After the tasting was finished I went outside and was looking at the then still-to-be-finished Trump Hotel, when a guy stopped me in the street and said, ‘Hey are you the chef from here?’ I laughed and said ‘No, I’m the chef from there,’ and I pointed to the prestigious Trump building.”

As the Australian truffles were available during the months when truffles grown in the Northern Hemisphere weren’t, Brunacci discussed the opportunity with his wife Lillian, who had a background in retailing and hospitality, to see if she would be interested in starting a small business to sell and distribute the truffles in the US. “There were only two ways of getting any truffles back then,” he says. “One way was via very high end and expensive distributors; or you could get them via a guy who would only meet you at the back of the restaurant.”

Agreeing to take on the distribution of The Wine and Truffle Company truffles, Brunacci says he knew they “were onto a winner” when he came home from working a really long day at Sixteen late one night in 2009

After working 20 hours a day to open Trump’s Sixteen restaurant in 2008, he led it to Michelin 10 Open House, May 2013 www.openhousemagazine.net

and “all I could smell was the aroma of these fantastic Australian perigord truffles”.

While Brunacci continued working at Sixteen, his wife promoted their new business, The Chefs Diamond Company, to the many chefs throughout the US they were able to reach out to.

The business soon grew from selling 18kg in the first year to 82kg in 2010 with other businesses, then as the sole distributor, 340kg in 2011 and 680kg in 2012.

This year The Chefs Diamond Company aims to sell truffles from Australia and Europe and reach the sales goal of 1134kg.

“Our business has grown organically,” says Brunacci. “Chefs know that we sell high quality aromatic truffles at good market prices throughout the year. As the seasons are different, we have the advantage of selling Australian truffles when European truffles are not in season.”

Last year 40 per cent of sales came from Australian truffles, with 60 per cent of sales from European truffles.

“I think we represent less than 2 per cent of the total US market, so we a lot of room to grow,” Brunacci adds. “Consider a truffle market of close to $100 million, we will hope to top sales of $2 million this year.”

“Our US market has now surpassed that of Japan making it our number one and most important market,” concurs Shane Styles, vice president

sales and marketing for The Wine and Truffle Company.

With a recent agreement secured with truffle house Gaillard of France for exclusive rights to distribute their product in the US, The Chefs Diamond Company is well on its way to achieve its goal in 2013.

Asked for his advice for Australian small business people and producers hoping to enter the US market Brunacci admits it’s hard “for Australian businesses here to get a start”.

“You have to contend with the fact that the Australian dollar is very strong, unlike years ago,” he says. “Also add to this the high cost to produce products in Australia. Having said this, Australia has some very unique products.”

Businesses need to have a strong plan, be able to meet demand, have the right logistics and be as detailed as possible. Speaking with Brunacci it soon becomes clear that he knows every intricate detail of the truffle business, from the history of the Wine and Truffle Company, to how the truffles are taken from the ground and even what time the truck leaves Manjimup in Western Australia to get to the domestic flight that connects with the international flight to make clearance at customs in the US. Styles believes having representation on the ground, from someone who is passionate about your product, is vital.

“That’s why we chose to partner with Frank and

The Wine and Truffle Company's truffle dogs.

Lillian,” he says. “When we entered into the US, a market survey showed that 95 to 98 per cent of chefs had not heard of Australian truffles. I like to say that we converted them one chef at a time.

end providor and truffle-themed restaurant, aptly named Dirt, in the near future. Brunacci also says he has “just been approached and will soon give a final audition for a US reality TV food show”.

“It has taken four years and considerable investment to develop the US market to a state where last year we broke even and this year we finally had a return.”

Overall, it is no surprise that this energetic and passionate couple are making big inroads in a highly competitive market. Having left Trump in 2011, Brunacci admits he misses the kitchen; however he now focuses all his energy on growing his business by attending events, marketing, networking and boldly self-promoting. OH

The Brunaccis say they are always on the lookout for unique products and intend to open a high-

Australians love it.

Shouldn’t you be serving it?

Peter Washbourne, Executive Chef at Wollongong’s Chifley Hotel explains that it’s the little things that make his breakfast buffet, the best brekkie in town.

“We change our menu every day so there’s always variety, but we also make sure that the staples customers have come to expect are always there.

We’ve always had Nutella, but previously only in large jars, where we would go through two or three a week.

So when I saw Nutella 20g portion control packs advertised, I had absolutely no hesitation in stocking up. So now we have less mess and no wastage.”

For more information call 1800 199 183 or visit www.ferrero.com.au/foodservice/nutella/home.html

ARM0451 Nutella T120 1/2_OH.indd 1

www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, May 2013 11 8/04/13 11:06 AM

origins of...

Cupcakes From humble beginnings, the cupcake has become one of the world’s most popular sweet snacks, writes Megan Kessler.

the most of a hot oven in times when fuel was short.

The first published cupcake recipe was featured in American Cookery

by Amelia Simmons in 1796. It called for “a cake to be baked in small cups”. The term cupcake was first seen in a cookbook by Eliza Leslie in 1828; however there is some disagreement as to why the cakes were given this name.

One theory on the name’s origin is that it came about simply because that was the way the cakes were cooked in the 19th century. Baked in individual pottery cups or ramekins, this gave the cakes a cup-like shape when they came out of the oven. Another idea is that cupcakes got their name because their ingredients were measured out in cups, with the recipe calling for one cup of butter, two cups of sugar and three cups of flour.

C

upcakes have taken the foodservice world by storm in recent years; with the individual desserts dominating high tea platters, sporting increasingly elaborate icing and decorations, and made into towers for birthdays and wedding

cakes. However, the cupcake goes back much further.

The method of baking cakes in small individual containers, most likely clay mugs, may have begun as a way of using up extra cake batter to make

In England, cupcakes were also called fairy cakes (probably because of their size) and were served with other small cakes for afternoon tea.

Traditionally fairy cakes are much smaller than cupcakes and are decorated with a simple icing rather than butter cream.

In the early 20th century moulded muffin tins were invented, allowing for the mass production of cupcakes.

Pearl of the Pacific There is no denying that the Pacific Islands have struggled with food; great dining is not associated with the Pacific Islands. Although, like anywhere the large hotel groups import some talent, the masses can’t afford to eat there.

If you want a holiday in beautiful surroundings, reasonably priced food and good weather you’re better off heading to the Sunshine Coast of Queensland.

However, there is a pocket of talent I have just discovered in the Cook Islands’ capital Rarotonga. This is one seriously beautiful place; however the big draw back again is the cost. It is right up there, with room rates ranging from $600 to $1200 a night, while food and alcohol price echoes the room rates.

But, after investigation, as I recently made my second visit to the capital, I have found the niche to survival.

I am not sure if he is a great man at the forefront of the hospitality industry or an absolute lunatic but Jack Cooper, the owner of Trader Jacks, Bamboo Jacks and all other “Jacks”, with the exception of Hungry Jacks, has found the pearl of the Pacific. His partner-in-crime, head chef Chris Cooper is literally one-in-a million. Stuck in the middle of the Pacific, Chris has developed some menu items and a catering business that is a force to be reckoned with.

Go into any pub or club in Australia and bar snacks will typically be

12 Open House, May 2013 www.openhousemagazine.net

fried crap; Trader Jacks serves fresh sashimi at $15 for an entree. The American-style dry rubbed roasted ribs would take out any award in the US, utilising an excellent self-developed rib rub and a clear, crisp, hot, house-made sauce that was mouth-smackingly great. The hot sauce is available for retail use and the chillies that dried to make the sauce become part of the rub when drained.

It does not stop there. You could weigh the amount of waste from the pub, restaurant and commissary kitchen in an ice cream tub. Chris in his isolated world has proven the net worth of the internet by demonstrating the knowledge he has gained from online research into developing recycling.

The first commercially produced cupcake was the Hostess cupcake which made its way onto shelves in the US in 1919. Originally made from chocolate with a chocolate or vanilla icing, during the 1940s an orange flavour was developed and by 1950 the Hostess cupcake gained its signature cream filling.

New York institution, the Magnolia Bakery, has been credited with the cupcake’s surge in popularity in the 1990s, after an episode of hit television series Sex and the City featured their pink frosted creations. Ever since the episode screened people have travelled to New York to experience the treat for themselves; Magnolia Bakery is to this day a favourite stop-off on one of the city’s tourist tours.

Since the late ’90s, the cupcake has been a fashionable treat enjoyed by adults as well as kids. There are hundreds of bakeries around Australia selling cupcakes in a variety of different flavours with an array of impressive decorations and toppings.

There has also been a more recent trend for gourmet cupcakes inspired by decadent desserts or quirky flavour combinations. Some of the most popular include red velvet, tiramisu, sticky date, peanut butter and lemon meringue. OH

Consultant chef

Glenn Austin

www.austinwright.com.au The great news about this is that I heard a whisper that he and another great chef Tony Bullivan, the owner of Sands restaurant, are threatening to do complete Pacific food tours and cooking sessions in Australia. If I hear more, I will let you know.

In short visit the Cook Islands for a food experience you will truly never forget.

Sustainability

Targeting innovation Pushing the land hard and getting the most out of it are not necessarily the same thing. Target 100, an initiative to deliver sustainable cattle and sheep farming by 2020, is bringing innovative new research into the paddocks with tangible results for both the environment and the farmers’ bottom line, writes Sheridan Randall.

“W

e have seen an increasing trend of people becoming disconnected with food production and not having any understanding of the process,” says Pip McConachie, community engagement manager at Meat & Livestock Australia, one of the organisations behind Target 100, which was set up around 12 months ago to deliver more sustainable cattle and sheep farming by 2020.

“This [initiative] was set up to try and close that gap and open a twoway conversation between people consuming the food and those producing it.”

Target 100 looks at things across a range of farming related issues including water, biodiversity, reducing emissions and animal welfare, with the research often adopted by farmers upon completion.

“Our research shows that people readily admit that they have no idea how cattle and sheep are raised but at the same time they have a very low expectation of the industry as utilising technology and being forward thinking,” she says.

“It’s quite removed from where it is.

They [farmers] are at the pointy end

of climate adaptability and need to be changing all the time.

“Most farmers have [always] been sustainable, they have to be. They run multi-generational businesses that rely on the landscape to provide their income, so it’s in their interest to maintain it. Ground cover, the health of the soil and everything like that has always been a priority.”

Pip Job with her husband Selwyn runs a 225 hectare cattle property in New South Wales called Peedamulla.

“In terms of what the public see in a big scale it’s all about climate change and methane emissions but on the ground level it’s a really complex job for us,” says Job. “As an everyday farmer we have other massive issues that we have to deal with daily – keeping cover on your soil to stop erosion and salinity management.

We are managing a whole suite of things and on top of that we have to be really savvy about our attitude and management practices.”

Job describes the ethos behind the farm as “holistic management”, which includes encouraging biodiversity and strategic grazing.

“We are always watching our pastures and making sure they are not being overgrazed by the animals and that they have the time to recover fully before we take animals back onto them,” says Jobs.

“If you allow it to grow back to its full potential it creates a huge root mass and that’s where you sequester your carbon. By allowing the plant to get its full root capacity we are sequestering more carbon out of the atmosphere.”

The farm is also home to some of Australia’s last natural Blakelys Red Gum and White Box woodland, which with the help of a Federal Government grant is being nurtured as much for its species biodiversity as for its rarity.

“The more species you have in an area creates a much more complex food chain and makes the system much more resilient,” she says.

Eco systems with a relatively limited number of elements make them prone to collapse if one of the elements crucial to the food chain disappears, while “having lots of different birds and bugs and reptiles” makes it more resilient to challenging times, such as droughts

and floods, according to Job. “Sustainability is not really a word that farmers want to use anymore because it means we want to keep it at the place that it is at,” she says. “We want our landscape to regenerate.”

Rob Lennon raises wagyu cattle on his New South Wales farm, Gundooee Organics. He uses time-controlled grazing and has encouraged deep rooted perennials to grow back in the paddocks.

However, when he first bought the farm, some of it was covered in Pattersons curse, an introduced annual weed that is a common sight on many paddocks with its distinctive purple flower. Although partially edible by cattle, the plant becomes toxic to the livestock if eaten in large quantities.

“In 1993 the hill on my farm was practically purple because it was covered in this Pattersons curse flower,” says Lennon. “Annual weeds turn up where there is bare soil. It’s like a band aid stuck on the soil and will help protect it in the short term from erosion.”

After encouraging the growth of native perennial grasses, “there is hardly a flower to be seen anymore” says Lennon, with the native perennials ensuring ground cover all year round.

Grazing cattle on the paddocks for up to seven days, Lennon makes sure the paddock is then given a six to 12 week rest period between the next grazing.

“Our stock rate is similar on a per hectare basis to neighbouring ‘setstocked’ paddocks, but we believe we produce more foliage [on the farm],” he says. “The grazing technique that we have and the condition of soil mean we have a far greater ability to survive the dry times, and also absorb the moisture because of the high content of dry matter and humus [organic matter].”

Lennon says that simply using a herbicide to rid the paddocks of Pattersons curse would have been simply a short term solution, “because you wouldn’t have anything to replace it”.

“If you focus on what you don’t want the inevitable result is that what you remove will come back or simply not be replaced by anything so you end up with a void,” he says.

Watch the video on the Open House iPad app.

14 Open House, May 2013 www.openhousemagazine.net

“In many aspects of our farming, and indeed life itself, if you create an environment for what you want, in time you will attract what you want.” OH

Foodservice Australia

Right time, right place Australia’s best foodservice suppliers are set to gather in Melbourne next month for the rapidly growing Foodservice Australia tradeshow.

I

Pizza and Pasta Challenge, are all reporting huge entries and will add to the excitement on the show floor.

n today’s ever-changing and increasingly crowded hospitality industry, keeping up with the latest trends, products and technological innovations is vital for staying ahead of the game.

Collett says visitor registrations are running well ahead of expectations and he expects a crowd of 6000 buyers. This bodes well for a highly successful event, and should see the show cement its place on the foodservice calendar.

The good news is you don’t have to race all over town to do just that; one of the best places to find new ideas will be at this year’s Foodservice Australia, which will be held in Melbourne from June 2-4.

An institution for 40 years, Foodservice Australia was taken over in 2012 by a new organiser and has been completely rebuilt to cater to the needs of today’s foodservice industry. Unlike other events the foodservice show focuses solely on restaurants, cafes, bakeries and institutional caterers, with exhibitors

Celebrating the best Australia’s best chefs, bakers and apprentices will showcase their skills and creativity in a series of exciting cooking competitions to be held on the show floor. ranging from small and large food producers to training providers and equipment suppliers. Visitors to the

trade-exclusive show will be able to sample new products, inspect new kitchen and front-of-house equipment and pick the brains of industry experts.

The show has also moved back to where it all started, the Royal Exhibition Building in Carlton.

Exhibition director Tim Collett says it is the right time and place for the show.

“The foodservice industry has become much larger and more sophisticated,” he says. “It needs its own show where people can talk about new trends, taste the products and try out the equipment. We offer a show that is directly relevant, easy to attend and actually enjoyable “We introduced a raft of changes for our first show in Sydney last year.

This year we move to Melbourne and I am pleased to say that the show has grown significantly.

People like what they saw last year and we are now getting much more industry support.”

Exhibitor numbers have grown significantly and include major food suppliers as well as niche producers, and a great range of catering and hospitality equipment. There is a special section for bakery as well as regional producers.

High-profile events to be held at the show, such as the Rare Medium Chef of the Year, Chocolate Grand Prix, Australia’s Best Pie and the Global

16 Open House, May 2013 www.openhousemagazine.net

Headlining the action is the Rare Medium Chef of the Year competition, which will see top chefs from around Australia, including last year’s winner Neil Abrahams from the Poyal Canberra Golf Club, compete for the title and $10,000 cash. Competitors each get

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Apprentices will get their turn in the Apprentice Chef of the Year competition, competing for the title and $1000 cash. A new format in 2013 will see a top chef demonstrate a dish to the apprentices before they try to replicate the dish in front of our judges.

The not-so-humble pie will be in the spotlight in Australia’s Best Pie Competition, which will see hundreds of pies and pasties flown in from bakeries all over Australia to be tasted by a team of expert judges live at the show.

This year will also see a new chocolate competition, The Chocolate Centrepiece Competition, with six of Australia’s best chocolatiers competing to build the best chocolate centrepiece live at the show. With a theme of “origami”, competitors will have nine hours to form and construct the pieces in front of the judges and a live audience. The competition is presented by Callebaut, Cacao Barry, F Mayer Imports and Savour Chocolate & Patisserie School.

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The Foodservice Association of Australia (FSAA) will be staging their annual conference on Monday June 3, 2013, alongside the exhibition, offering delegates unique insights into the foodservice industry, key trends and practical advice for improving their business.

The theme of this year’s event is “The passion in foodservice”, with speakers to include Pat Stobbs, Rick Smith, Rod Young and chefs Walter Wagner, Marcus Moore and Tom Milligan.

Foodservice suppliers will also be able to celebrate the best of the best as the industry gathers for the annual FSAA Foodservice Gala Dinner & Awards, to be held on Monday June 3, 2013, at the Park Hyatt Melbourne. Last year’s dinner attracted more than 300 people.

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volume catering

Remote possibilities Mining in Australia has always been a tough and challenging job, often done in some of the remotest and most inhospitable parts of Australia, but the days of billy tea and damper bread have long been replaced with resort-style food and personalised menus, discovers Sheridan Randall.

M

ining sites can range from 2000-person plus semipermanent sites to small teams of 30 workers in mobile sites, many of which are thousands of kilometres from the nearest city and in conditions that push the limit of human endurance. Within all the logistical challenges involved the workers still have to be fed – and fed well.

Thanks to an ongoing resources boom there is money to spare, and workers not only expect to be financially compensated for their troubles, they want the comforts of home or more as well, especially when it comes to their food.

“Our clients can pay the workers any amount so they need a point of difference, whether it is the facilities or the food offering.”

Bridge says that the quality of the food offering in mining sites started to increase about a decade ago, and has been “ramping up in the last five years”.

“There has been more focus on the freshness and quality of the product rather than just institution style food – it’s a cappuccino or latte instead of just a black coffee,” he says.

The company offers three meals daily, with a traditional breakfast of bacon and eggs-style hot dishes, a

Photo courtesy of Morris Corporation.

“We are replicating what they can get in a hotel or resort,” says Adrian Bridge, technical services manager at Morris Corporation, a company

which has been servicing the mining sector for the last 40 years and caters for sites up to 2000 people.

18 Open House, May 2013 www.openhousemagazine.net

wet dish and multiple varieties of toast, juices, cereals, yogurts, cheese and ham platters a standard selection to start the day.

However, unlike most city restaurants or hotels, which work off four or five deliveries a week, many mine sites only get one delivery a week.

The workers can also pack their “crib” or lunchtime takeaway meal during breakfast, with multiple varieties of salads, cold meats and reheatable products such as lasagnes, pies and sausage rolls, as well as fresh fruit.

“We have some sites that are just map coordinates which can be very challenging,” he says.

“Dinners can be quite spectacular with soups, roasts, grills, casseroles,” he says. “We do fresh, cooked to order chicken, fish or steak every night. So if they can’t find enough variety on the buffet they can go and order a sirloin or breast of chicken.

They also get an array of desserts and ice creams.”

“We also have to carry a minimum of two weeks stock onsite due to cyclones and floods. We work with our client to keep a par level onsite that gets rotated every two weeks.

Sometimes if there has been extreme weather we might have to helicopter or plane them in.”

Freight logistics is of primary importance to South Australianbased firm Oil Industry Catering and Services (OICS), which mainly

services land-based oil drilling rigs in Australia. The rigs are home to small communities of between 25-50 workers that move every three or four weeks on average in very remote areas, which pushes the logistics of the food’s cold chain integrity to “full stretch”, according to OICS director Chris Hayes.

That doesn’t mean the quality of the food offering is any less than would be expected on a larger more permanent site, in fact on rigs the food offering is even more integral to the employment package offered by employers, with rig workers putting in 12 hour shifts around the clock on 14 day cycles, according to Hayes.

The result is the kitchen team, often just two chefs, working on a 24 hour cycle producing eight meals a day with everything that can be made

Photo courtesy of Morris Corporation.

Deliveries are made once a fortnight with journeys of 1400km, often on dirt roads, and temperatures in the mid-to late 40s not uncommon. With the fresh produce travelling for up to seven days after it was picked and with an expected life of 14 days once onsite, chefs have to get three weeks out of it.

fresh onsite, and all from a kitchen the size of a semi-trailer.

“The chefs have lots of time to do things from scratch, and we tend to bake our own bread and rolls,

produce our own cakes, desserts and sweets onsite, and do a lot of our own pastries,” he says.

“Cold chain logistics and integrity is too long and too hard and the storage space too limited for prepared type meals – it’s all fresh and the guys like that.”

Hayes says the rig workers “don’t want anything flash”, just good, wholesome food “that their mum would make at home”.

“Because it’s a smallish group it tends to get quite personalised, with the chefs getting to know everyone’s needs, likes and dislikes,” he says.

“We give the chefs in the field the flexibility to do what they need to do within their target constraints.

If you’re cooking for 12 people on night shift you can pretty much do what you want.”

Despite the efforts by employers to push healthy eating options, many of the rig workers prefer their comfort food, with Hayes saying there is a “mismatch between the client and the employee”.

Morris Corporation runs a program called ActiV8, with the aim of providing the mine workers healthy lifestyle options.

“It’s a lead the horse to water style of thing that incorporates the three main areas of diet, exercise and safety,” says Bridge.

“On the food options we put out a heart rating. For example steamed chicken or fish might get a 5-star rating as where a really rich wet dish

20 Open House, May 2013 www.openhousemagazine.net

might get a 2-star rating.

“This is so the guys don’t fall into the habit of the ‘buffet syndrome’ of having three courses every time they go. It is a matter of education, but ultimately they are responsible for themselves.”

Bridge says the miners “really do get well looked after” in terms of the food offering delivered by “an amazing array of chefs working for us all over the country”.

“We are using quality chefs from 5-star establishments,” he says. “I think they like it as a culture change for them, as they still get to prepare the same quality of food.”

OICS has a very low turnover of chefs with the role “more exciting than the average institutional style stuff” and paying on average double the rate for a similar role in a restaurant or hotel, according to Hayes.

The lifestyle is also very different, with three weeks on and three weeks off, the chefs end up working just 26 weeks of the year.

“Although it is a bit more disjointed in some ways, in other ways it probably gives them better quality time with their families than if they were working in a pub in the city,” he says.

“We average about 50 job applications a week and we don’t advertise so we can be reasonably selective. They need to be able to get on in the group where everybody knows everybody else. If they don’t fit in them it’s going to be a problem.” OH

速

速

Desserts

Glass Brasserie’s liquorice parfait.

Less is more The trend towards smaller desserts has kicked off a wave of dessert degustation that diners and restaurant staff alike say is “sweet”, writes Ylla Wright.

D

essert may typically come at the end of a meal, however it shouldn’t be an afterthought, with the majority of diners in casual dining and fine dining restaurants likely to order dessert, according to the October 2012 American Express Market Briefing.

The briefing, based on a survey of 484 consumers who eat dessert, found that 62 per cent would be likely to order dessert after eating dinner in a casual venue, while 54 per cent would order dessert in a fine dining restaurant.

While diners are more likely to gravitate towards those items that would be tricky or timeconsuming at home (60 per cent), “signature” dishes that can’t be found elsewhere (57 per cent), and new or unique desserts (54 per cent), the survey also found that portioning and presentation are key factors in driving dessert choices, particularly for women. Almost two thirds of women (60 per cent) professed an interest in “shareable” desserts which allow them to have “just a taste” while keeping kilojoules to a minimum. Fifty six per cent of women also said they would order dessert more often if a dessert sampler were an option.

With diners keen on smaller desserts, whether it’s for health reasons or because they want to experience more of them in one sitting, it is little wonder that bite-sized desserts have been one of

the key foodservice trends in recent years.

Tasting plates allowing diners to taste three or four desserts, in miniature sizes, are a popular choice on restaurant menus. Corporate caterers and function centres are increasingly moving away from serving plated desserts at gala dinners in favour of dessert buffets which allow people to help themselves and mingle with colleagues away from the table.

In the US, mini desserts have been named in the Top 5 restaurant trends for the past four years, according to the National Restaurant Association, which surveys more than 1500 chefs every year.

For those diners keen to indulge their childhood fantasies of eating dessert for dinner, dessert degustations are also proving popular.

Mrs Hive Dessert Bar, part of Mr Hive Kitchen & Bar in Melbourne’s Crown Metropol hotel, has added a dessert degustation to their desserts-only menu, serving smaller versions of a several of their desserts, plus a few “extras” to sweeten the deal.

“It works out to be five courses overall, with three desserts, a little mini ‘after dessert’ and takeaway lolly bag,” explains executive pastry chef Dalmaine Blignaut. (The kitchen team make a variety of lollies reminiscent of childhood including soft mint pastilles, fresh fruit jellies, salted caramels and berry gob-stoppers.)

“Because we get a lot of walk-ins, we don’t have a set menu for the degustation; we pull things off the menu and create the degustation like that.

“We have a signature dessert, Mrs Hive’s Chocolate Bar, that we always incorporate in the degustation, but otherwise it’s a mix of everything, so that people can experience everything we do here.”

Along with the Mrs Hive Chocolate Bar, which Blignaut likens to “an adult version of a Snickers bar”, current menu items include a blackberry soufflé, almond and buttermilk ice cream, summer berry eton mess, and lemon tart with raspberry sorbet.

Mrs Hive Chocolate Bar.

22 Open House, May 2013 www.openhousemagazine.net

Joe Pavlovich, executive chef at Glass Brasserie in Sydney’s Hilton Hotel, which hosts irregular

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dessert degustation evenings in its wine bar, has a less ad hoc approach to creating his menus, structuring them carefully to ensure diners’ palettes aren’t overwhelmed.

“We start off with lighter, more airy desserts and fruity desserts and work our way into a warm dessert on the fourth or fifth one and finally on to a chocolate dessert,” he says.

“None of its overly heavy; we want people to feel comfortable at the end of it. That way everyone eats every course, without feeling sick or as though it’s too rich.”

Pavlovich and his team have been experimenting with a number of seasonallyinspired dishes for the event, many of which will also debut on the restaurant’s regular dessert menu. Highlights of the six-course menu include an amuse bouche of violet panna cotta with rosella granita; honey and lavender semifreddo, with apple and basil jelly, raspberry and lemon macaroons; and a chocolate and mint pavé, with frozen raspberries, salted caramel popcorn, prune and Armagnac ice-cream.

For Pavlovich the secret of creating a memorable dessert, let alone one that holds its own on a multiple-course menu, is “something that’s a little bit playful”.

“Look what Peter Gilmore [at Sydney’s Quay restaurant] has done for the floating island, with ice cream inside,” he says “It’s a traditional dessert that’s been made modern and quirky.”

Some dishes don’t bear tinkering with however, he adds.

“We do a traditional brulee, the French way, in a French porcelain plate and we probably sell 80 a day,” he says. “If they’re done amazingly, the old desserts are still very popular.”

Another convert of the dessert degustation is pastry chef Rochelle Adonis, best known for her high-teas, who runs monthly seven-course dessert degustation nights in her Perth café and cake shop.

Originally a one-off event suggested by a former employee, now the head pastry of Melbourne’s Vue de Monde restaurant, it proved so popular with both customers and staff that Adonis decided to make them a regular feature. Advertised only on Facebook, the evenings now have a waiting list.

Adonis’ staff, led by head pastry chef Sandro Puca, enjoy the opportunity to unleash their creativity on plated desserts.

Glass Brasserie’s chocolate and mint pave.

A “Sweet Session” at Melbourne’s Burch and Purchese.

“The way I see it, my chefs do my recipes all week, week in, week out, and this is a chance for them to let their hair down and experiment with all the techniques they’re read about,” she says.

“We talk about menu balance, just to make sure the whole meal is well crafted for the palette, but basically I give them carte blanche.”

While Adonis admits the “first couple were a bit hit and miss”, with customers commenting that they had a “sugar hangover”, practice makes perfect.

“The last one we did two weeks ago was brilliant,” she says. “Sandro’s ethos on the night was that he didn’t want anyone to feel like anyone had had the dessert until the last course, and that’s exactly what happened. It was so beautifully crafted and all credit to him.”

For Adonis, a successful degustation dish not only has to look and taste “beautiful” but also be texturally interesting to keep the palette from becoming jaded.

“You can’t just have a plate with creams, sauces, ice creams and mousses on it,” she says.

Menus also always have a savoury element to them, either in a well composed cheese course, or in the dishes themselves.

“In the chocolate menu we finished off with a chocolate and venison pie, and by that stage everyone was like, ‘thank god, I need something salty’.”

With so many customers missing out on the degustation evenings every month, the team now runs a seasonal menu over three months. It also gives the chefs the chance to fine-tune dishes if they can see a different way of doing something or way to improve them.

Melbourne pastry chef Darren Purchese, owner of Burch & Purchese Sweet Studio, also runs regular “Sweet Sessions”, intimate four-course (“plus surprises”) degustation evenings, from his South Yarra shop.

See recipe in the Open House iPad app.

“I come from restaurants so I’m used to doing plated desserts,” he says. “We were missing doing that, so we thought we’d create a night that would

24 Open House, May 2013 www.openhousemagazine.net

allow us to do something different to what we do every day in the shop.”

So popular are the events, which have a maximum of 25 seats, that they sell out within “about 10 minutes” of the dates being put up on the website.

While Purchese suggests that customers have something light to eat before they come, he also incorporates savoury elements into the menu to avoid palette overload.

“We don’t go straight in there with a chocolate tart,” he says. “It would ruin the balance and structure of the menu. We start off with less sweet desserts, such as smoked vanilla ice-cream with a prune compote and kirsch, served with Epoisses cheese, and work up to sweeter dishes from there.”

Getting the balance right between the different flavours, textures and weights, not just in one dish, but across the whole menu is “incredibly important otherwise people won’t want to eat the last course, or get the best out of what you’re trying to achieve”.

“People don’t like it when it’s just all sugar and there’s no contrast, no release anywhere; it’s not really a pleasant experience,” he says.

With a lot of repeat customers, Purchese changes the menu for each session, supplementing perennial favourites such as chocolate with seasonally-inspired dishes.

“Now we’re coming into cooler weather we’ll be using a few root vegetables in our dishes,” he says.

“Maybe parsnip or pumpkin, which are great in creams and ice creams. We’ve done a dessert with cauliflower before.”

Purchese’s goal is to launch a permanent dessert bar at Sweet Studio by next summer.

“We’re working on the logistics of it,” he says.

“We’re really excited by the idea of doing it; we just need to work how we can do it a bit more permanently without killing ourselves.”

With specialised dessert bars already taking off in the US and UK, and popping up across Australia, we may be looking at the start of new foodservice trend. OH

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cooking the Books

Pancakes with a twist Pancakes are always popular, but the semolina in this recipe gives them a lovely chewiness, writes chef and author Karen Martini.

Moroccan semolina pancakes with honeycomb butter and banana Makes: 8–10

100g honeycomb, smashed to a rough dust 150g unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for pan-frying 2 teaspoons dried yeast 210ml warm water 1 large egg 120ml milk 1 cup (160g) fine semolina 1 cup (150g) plain flour 2 tablespoons raw sugar 4 ripe ladyfinger bananas, peeled and sliced on an angle 4 tablespoons honey Lemon juice, to serve (optional) Icing sugar, for dusting (optional) Place the honeycomb and butter in a bowl and mix well. Set aside.

Combine the yeast and warm water in a medium bowl and set aside for 10 minutes until it starts to bubble.

Lightly whisk in the egg and milk.

In a large heatproof bowl, whisk together the semolina, flour and sugar and make a well in the centre.

Pour in the egg mixture and whisk to a thick, smooth batter. Cover with plastic film and sit the bowl over a container of boiling water (it must fit snugly). Leave to prove for about 25 minutes or until the batter has doubled in size.

Melt a little extra butter in a large non-stick frying pan over medium heat. Pour 2 tablespoons of batter into the pan and cook for 4 minutes (the pancake will bubble and lose its gloss when cooked through), then turn and cook the other side for 1 minute.

Remove and keep warm while you cook the remaining pancakes.

To serve, top the pancakes with the banana slices, honeycomb butter and a drizzle of honey. Finish with a squeeze of lemon juice and a dusting of icing sugar, if desired.

Recipe and images from The Karen Martini: Collection by Karen Martini (Lantern, $49.99.

Photography by Earl Carter and Petrina Tinslay.

26 Open House, May 2013 www.openhousemagazine.net

What’s on shelf this month?

Homemade Patisserie by Vincent Gadan and Michelle Guberina (New Holland, $45) From crumbly pie dough to light as air puff pastry, there’s no doubt that good pastry can mean the difference between so-so and sensational. While it’s tempting in a time- or space-poor kitchen to reach for a prepared pastry, housemade pastries, tarts, pizza doughs and bread are sure to earn their keep when customers keep coming back for more.

In this book French-born pastry chef, Vincent Gaden, executive chef and trainer at Patisse Cooking School in Sydney, demystifies classic varieties of pastry, with each chapter starting with the basic dough, and encompassing sweet and savoury treats includung crossiants, profiteroles, gougeres and brioche.

Spanish Cooking by Miguel Maestre (New Holland, $35) A collection of Maestre’s favourite recipes from his hometown of Murcia in the South East of Spain and beyond, this newly updated book is a celebration of authentic Spanish flavours and

techniques, combined with fresh local ingredients. Filled with personal anecdotes and memories, Maestre’s enthusiasm for Spanish food is infectious and it’s hard not to get excited by recipes such as king prawns in jamon with romesco coulis; razor clams garlic

Sardinia people’s choice A Sardinian Cookbook by Giovanni Pilu (pictured) and Roberta Muir (Lantern/Penguin) has won the People’s Choice Award at the International Association of Culinary Professionals Cookbook Awards, held in San Francisco last month.

The only Australian cookbook to make this year’s list of finalists, A Sardinian Cookbook was one of

three finalists in the International category along with Jerusalem: A Cookbook by Yotam Ottolenghi and Burma: Rivers of Flavor by Naomi Duguid.

style; and orange and lemon drunken sponge.

Whether the crumbed pigs’ testicles end up on anyone’s menu however is up for debate.

From India by Kumar and Suba Mahadevan (Murdoch Books, $59.99) Since being discovered in 1994 by

Adelaide’s Major Hospitality and Foodservice Event

“We were stoked even to make the list of finalists,” said Pilu, chef/owner of Sydney restaurant Pilu at Freshwater. “And given that Jerusalem, which won our category, also won best overall cookbook, we can’t be too ashamed of that defeat. We are honoured and humbled to take out the People’s Choice Award.”

Pilu’s first cookbook, A Sardinian Cookbook celebrates the unique flavours of his homeland. Featuring recipes like chicory with citrus, nettle taglioni with pecorino, black pepper and guanciale, and delicious Sardinian desserts such as Seadas (cheese filled fritters drizzled with honey), it is an authentic introduction to Sardinian food and culture.

then Sydney Morning Herald restaurant reviewer Les Luxford, Kumar Mahadevan’s restaurant Abhi’s, which he runs with wife Suba, has been one of the most highly regarded Indian restaurants in Sydney. In this very personal book the pair share their own story of coming to Australia, as well as a delicious blend of contemporary and authentic dishes representative of the food they serve in Abhi’s and sister restaurant Aki’s. While you won’t find recipes for butter chicken, there are plenty of regional specialities to intrigue and inspire. OH

SA Hotel & Restaurant Trade Show featuring Foodservice & Baking SA

May Tues 28th & Wed 29th

Open 10am-5pm Goyder Pavillion - Adelaide Showground See, Try & Buy the Latest Baking Products and Services all at the one location

The Trade Show is packed with everything you need to make your business more efficient and cost effective including Expert Advice, Food & Beverage, Cooking Equipment & Refrigeration, Fit out, Furniture, Bedding, Audio-Visual, POS, IT, Money Handling and Gaming, plus a New Baking Area creating a huge “one stop industry shop”.

Supported by…

Organised by

Details and registration at

www.KJEX.com.au

Trade Only Free Entry

or P: 08 8177 1499 E: info@kjex.com.au www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, May 2013 27

products

Mint, Raspberry and Turkish Delight. They can also be used in iced chocolate, coffee, ice cream or various desserts. ● www.alchemycordial.com.au

Yes freeze!

All round yoghurt A

The yoghurt is easy to use and versatile; it can be added to sauces, dips, dressings or breakfast dishes. A lighter, low kilojoule option for baking, it can be used to substitute butter, oil, cream, mayonnaise and milk.

Chobani plain Greek yoghurts are made with natural ingredients and provide two times more protein than regular yoghurt. They are gluten free and kosher certified. ● www.chobani.com.au

Spice it up After almost two decades serving from Sami’s cafe, Sami and Sonia are letting you in on their secret with their range of Authentic Middle Eastern Spice Blends.

Sami’s Kitchen produces premium spice blends which are based on family recipes. They source, grind and blend the spices without using any additives so the result that is pure, flavoursome spice mix.

The machine works by using existing carbon dioxide to chill glassware and provide a frosting on glasses.

It ensures that all drinks are served in a cold glass and eliminates the problem of warm glassware.

With the glass freezing theatrics and LED lights, the Glass Freezer is a unique presentation piece that will make your service stand out and give customers a unique experience.

merican yoghurt brand Chobani has introduced two new varieties of plain Greek yoghurts; fat free and 98 per cent fat free.

Chobani yoghurt is handcrafted using traditional straining techniques for a thick, creamy texture.

This method removes excess liquid from the yoghurt so that it doesn’t break down when heated, making it ideal for use in cooking.

The Frucosol GF-1000 Glass Freezer is an impressive product for restaurants and bars that instantly cools and frosts all types of glasses.

The machine is ideal for cocktails and perfect for champagne or sparkling wine as it keeps drinks fizzy. It is a hygienic option as glasses are sterilised when frozen. ● www.hit-equipment.com.au

Due to the increased demand from the foodservice industry, Sami’s Kitchen has developed a foodservice only range which includes Kofta, Sujuk, Baharat, Moroccan and Tagine blends. ● www.samiskitchen.com.au

Hot chocolate syrups Just in time for winter, Alchemy Cordials have developed Heavenly Hot Chocolate Syrups; a range of syrups to liven up traditional hot chocolates and make them even better.

Adding just 15ml of the syrup to a regular hot chocolate creates a hot drink that is instantly more indulgent. With six different flavours in the range, the syrups offer more options on your menu and ensure there is something for every customer.

The Heavenly Hot Chocolate Syrup flavours include Chilli Spice, Chocolate Orange, Coconut,

28 Open House, May 2013 www.openhousemagazine.net

“Consumers within this segment displayed a strong preference for a smaller and sleek packaging size, however feedback on the liquid itself was really positive so there were no changes there,” said Bickford’s senior brand manager, Jodi Gray.

The sparkling water will now be packaged in a slimline 250ml bottle to appeal to busy professionals looking for a healthy, refreshing beverage.

Quick and easy duck Add duck to your menu as a starter or main course with Duck Confit, the new product for the foodservice industry from Home Gourmet. Home Gourmet Duck Confit is a leg and thigh portion of French Duck that is easy to prepare and versatile.

Spritz was a new concept when first launched in the early 1990s and is now a well known beverage on the market. The drink uses all natural flavours and no added colours or preservatives; the new bottles are available in strawberry, lemon, mixed berry and passionfruit. ● www.bickfords.net

Mini jam jars World renowned for its delectable jam, Bonne Mamam has developed a new range of miniature jars for the Australian foodservice and hospitality industry. The 30g jars are a smaller version of the popular 370g jar.

The jam jars will add an attractive touch to buffet or breakfast tables with their red and white gingham lid and distinctive handwritten label. They are already favoured by foodservice managers in 5-star hotels and airport lounges worldwide.

Bonne Mamam is made with just four ingredients, fruit, natural sugar, lemon juice and fruit pectin, which are mixed together to create the perfect consistency then slow cooked for a delectable result.

They are the ideal accompaniment for toast, croissants or English muffins and come in a variety of flavours such as strawberry, apricot, red cherry, raspberry and blueberry. ● www.menora.com.au

The duck is salted, dried then slow cooked in its own fat for hours. When the duck is packed the fat is poured over to seal and preserve the meat, giving it a four year shelf life.

To prepare, the duck simply needs to be roasted for 10 minutes and grilled for a crispy skin. The result is succulent, melting textured meat that can be served with cooked vegetables or salad.

Home Gourmet Duck Confit also ensures zero wastage as any unused duck can be covered in the fat and refrigerated to last up to four weeks. The duck fat can be stored in the fridge for up to six months and used to roast vegetables, for frying or as a butter substitute. ● www.homegourmet.co.nz

Pure, quality accessories Blomus has created a range of kitchen accessories and products to suit the needs of the foodservice industry. Their quality products range from cocktail and wine accessories to stands and trays, all of which are sure to add a touch of style to any bar, restaurant or cafe.

With a focus on design, pure materials and quality, not only do the products look sleek and contemporary but they are functional and easy to use. ● www.blomus.com

Old favourite relaunched Spritz sparkling flavoured water from Bickford’s has been relaunched in sleek new packaging. The new look comes after consumer research of the Australian market.

Hey, sweet thing Tennis champion Maria Sharapova has developed her own collection of lollies that are available to the foodservice industry. The “Sugapova” range takes traditional gummy sweets and makes them a luxurious treat.

The premium sweets were designed by Sharapova to reflect her playful personality and fashionable style.

There are 12 flavours in the range including gummies, sours and gum balls with different shapes including bears, lips, high heels and sunglasses.

The Tennis Gum Balls in lemon-lime yellow complete the range and are a fun, quirky addition to the collection of sweets.

Ultimate treat Duck Creek Macadamia has released a limited edition range of gifts for the ultimate indulgent treat. They are ideal for cafes or hotels who want to serve something extra alongside coffee or offer chocolate gift boxes.

The limited edition gifts include the Obsession range in Mocha, Orange, Ginger, Rose and Mint; Macadamia Nougat, and the Fantasies Chocolate Box, all of which are individually hand wrapped in a variety of jars.

Duck Creek Macadamia chocolates use the finest nuts from their Byron Bay plantation which are expertly coated and covered in coverture chocolate. ● www.duck-creek.com.au OH

“I wanted to start something on my own; something that could bring the fun and passion of gummy candies to life and can be my own project from start to finish” said Sharapova.

A percentage of the sales from the Sugapova collection will go to the Maria Sharapova Foundation which provides assistance programs for youth from the are affected by the Chernobyl disaster. ● www.sugarpova.com www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, May 2013 29

CULINARY CLIPPINGS

Cooking up a global feast T

he Australian Culinary Federation (ACF) is in the midst of a whirlwind of activities around the country and the Pacific Rim. Our newly elected vice president, Bruno Gentile, from Queensland, has been meeting delegates in Japan as part of further developing the Secondary Schools Culinary Challenge. Our continental director for the Pacific region, Glenn Austin, has also been working in the Pacific supporting local events in the Cook Islands and incorporating the first chefs association in Tahiti.

PRESIDENT’S MESSAGE

Peter Wright Australian Culinary Federation (ACF)

Neil Abrahams was hosted by the Executive Chef Club in Sydney, who have embraced the new format of the ACF NSW & ACT Region chapter, strengthening the region enormously. Dale Lyman, from the William Angliss Institute, met with Dubai-based Andy Cuthbert in a collaboration of our young chefs club. Pat O’Brien, Peter Tischhauser and their Western Australian team put on the show of the year at the bi-annual Oceanafest in Perth,

creating history with a magnificent international culinary event.

The German team competed in Australia for the first time alongside national teams from Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong, New Zealand, Fiji and Australia with the end result seeing the Aussies finally coming out on top. Australian chef Shannon Kellam, from the Brisbane Club, won the right to represent the region at Global Chef in Norway next year, with Fiji winning the Hans Bueschkens Young Chefs Challenge and New Zealand the inaugural Global Pastry Cup. The big news though was a visit from the World Association of Chefs president Gissur Gudmundsson to Perth during Fine Foods. In the course of meetings with chef Gudmundsson, the plans for the next congress in Norway 2014 were revealed, with a focus on sustainable kitchens and potential strategies for protecting food sources around the world. This is also a hot topic in Australia and has big issues that are

relevant to all of us.

The ACF has also been selected to work on the Australian Fish Names Committee, established under Seafood Services Australia, and has set up web links to give chefs access to relevant industry information to make informed decisions to purchase correct named species of seafood and to choose sustainable choices where possible.

A joint program to establish a culinary ambassador program with our national sponsor Fonterra Food Services produced key milestones with ACF members Mathew Wynne and Shane Keighley, from the Regatta Hotel in Brisbane, representing both the ACF and Fonterra at the Clubs Queensland expo and presentation to chef Gary Johnson and his team at the Spirit Hotel Groups. All in all a great month.

Peter Wright National President Australian Culinary Federation peter@austinwright.com.au www.austculinary.com.au

A smoking time Great chef’s program for 2013 in Vanuatu Award winning chef Neil Abrahams recently went over to Vanuatu for the inaugural fundraising event for the Vanuatu National Team. Along with National team manager David Holliday, he demonstrated and taught local chefs, including students from Vanuatu Institute of Technology (VIT), an array of new skills and food presentation.

Guests were treated to a magnificent six course degustation dinner and wine, and while the menu included many extraordinary dishes, the pièce de résistance had to be the Floating Islands featuring nitrogen poached meringues.

“The National Team performed well and they grasped the opportunity to learn new techniques while being inspired

by Neil whose passion and enthusiasm for producing great

food is infectious,” said Holliday.

A big thanks to the chefs called on to produce great food, the VIT students who helped prepare and the support of Australia Pacific Technology College hospitality students who did a great job running the service – together the industry produced a fantastic event.

Abrahams also visited a real smoking island – Tanna, home to the volcanic Mt Yasur, where he met some local chefs and shared his knowledge in the kitchen. On leaving Vanuatu, Abrahams said he absolutely loved being there and he was impressed with the fundraising dinner and the hard work put in by all the chefs.

“Thanks for the opportunity to meet and work with your chefs, I would love to come back to Vanuatu again,” said Abrahams.

30 Open House, May 2013 www.openhousemagazine.net

William Angliss Institute’s renowned Great Chef Program is celebrating its 20th year. This year’s Great Chef Program gives the Institute’s final year cookery students the opportunity to work with and be mentored by leading chefs from the culinary industry at its Angliss Restaurant.

The Program kicked off last month with Ian Curley from the European Restaurant, Mister Bianco’s Joe Vergetto, Mirka at Tolarno Hotel’s Brad Bouhalis and Philippe Mouchel from PM 24.

Students are invited to cook a menu designed by the “Great Chef” and with wine to match each course these events are not to be missed.

For bookings and enquires call 03 9606 2108 or email goodfood@angliss.edu.au. Places are limited so get in quick.

Lunch $50pp (3 course)

• Justin Wise – The Point – May 24 • Teage Ezard – Gingerboy – May 29 and 30 • Shane Ching – Nobu – August 21 and 22 • Mark Normoyle – RACV Club – October 28 and 29 • Tony Twitchett – Taxi Dining Room - November 1

Dinners $80pp (4 course) • Daniel Wilson – Huxtable – August 7 and 8 • Annie Smithers – Annie Smithers Bistrot – August 28 and 29 • Ben Pollard – Spice Temple Melbourne – September 16 and 17

Australian Culinary Team winning menu for Restaurant of Champions MAIN Slow cooked Amelia Pa rk beef tenderloin with smoked Amelia Park bri braised oyster blade an sket, Amelia Park d rougie foie gras, sauce bo rdelaise, chia seed and Amelia Park beef cheek quinoa crusted , fondant potato, root veg etable puree, heirloom carrots, green peas.

E ENTRE

rk veal elia Pa m corn A r, , tomato lobste y k ll c b, je o r r ing cra alian lobste d and k to and n Austr r a o c te m s k e to c , W bla eam laskan rb oil. read cr s vide A reduction, he sweetb u o s , a ce l sals tua sau and dil d, Nan la a s n autum

DESSERT

ache, banana e and salted caramel gan Valrhona milk chocolat onfruit amelised banana, passi passionfruit mousse, car ing, rum dd pu sel eu str macadamia meringue, banana and , lemon balm. caramel, mango sorbet

Oceanafest 2013 brings out the best treated to an exceptional standard of food, with the challenge won

by Australia, in what the judges described as an intense and very close competition.

The team was captained by Shane Keighley, executive chef The Regatta Hotel in Queensland and included Shannon Kellam, executive chef The Brisbane Club; Jenni Key, owner of South Australia’s Bittersweet Patisserie; Royston Clark, sous chef at Clarke’s of North Beach in Western Australia; and Che Tam Nguyen, owner of WA’s Butty’s.

Western Australia has hosted the most successful Oceanafest to date, with international teams Hong Kong, Singapore, Germany and Thailand competing against the Australian Culinary Team, Team Western Australia, Pan Pacific Hotel and University of Western Australia in Restaurant of Champions. The 240 lunch guests each day were

The world Inaugural Global Pastry Chef’s Challenge was held in conjunction with Global Chef’s Challenge and Hans Bueschkens Young Chefs Challenge. New Zealand, Australia and Fiji competed to see who would represent the Pacific Rim against seven other continents at the World Final in Norway in 2014.

World Association of Chef’s Societies (WACS) president Gissur Gudmundsson presented a certificate of appreciation to the Australian Culinary Federation, while the ACF Western Australian Chapter was presented with 1000 euros to be used to send junior chefs to the World Congress in Norway next year.

The event culminated in a closing ceremony at the Perth Convention and Exhibition Centre attended by sponsors, competitions and international jury. Martin Kobald, the honorary president of the South African Chefs Association, acting on behalf of the jury, awarded

PUBLISHER Alexandra Yeomans MANAGING EDITOR Ylla Wright Journalist Sheridan Randall Sales & Marketing Manager Jo Robinson Regional Account Manager Leah Jensen

Official organ for the Australian Culinary Federation; Association of Professional Chefs and Cooks of NSW; Professional Chefs and Cooks Association of Queensland Inc.; Academie Culinaire de France; College of Catering Studies and Hotel Administration, Ryde, NSW; Les Toques Blanches, NSW Branch; Australasian Guild of Professional Cooks Ltd. Subscriptions: 1 yr $99; 2 yrs $174; 3 yrs $261 (incl. GST and surface mail).

ISSN 0312-5998

Salon director Patrick O’Brien and WA life member Peter Tischhauser with honorary memberships of the South African Chefs Association in recognition of their work and dedication to the culinary arts. OH

Australia’s Shannon Kellam (pictured, centre) was crowned winner of the Global Chef’s Challenge, while New Zealand’s Jie Min Aw (left) won the Global Pastry Chef’s Challenge and Fiji’s Abinesh Sharma (right) was the Hans Bueschkens winner.

DESIGN/PRODUCTION Bin Zhou ADVERTISING CO-ORDINATION megan@creativehead.com.au

OPEN HOUSE FOODSERVICE is proud to be a diamond sponsor of the ACF.

For information on ACF, visit www.austculinary.com.au, or contact the ACF National Office via acfnationaloffice@austculinary.com.au or (03) 9816 9859.

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Published in Australia by Creative Head Media Pty Ltd · P.O. Box 189, St Leonards, NSW 1590 HouseHouse, Foodservice Opinions expressed by the contributors in this magazine are not the opinion of Open www.openhousemagazine.net Open May. Letters to the editor are subject to editing.

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