Open House Dec/Jan Issue

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Australia’s leading news magazine for the hospitality industry

12 12 01 13

PASS IT ON NAME

Fat chance Foodservice fights obesity Better with buttons?

Automatic coffee machines www.openhousemagazine.net

TICK

Cracking value

Farm Pride’s prepared egg products CAB Audited. Circulation 20,700 — September 2012

Australians love it.

Shouldn’t you be serving it?

Executive Chef at Wollongong’s Chifley Hotel, Peter Washbourne explains that it’s the little things that make his breakfast buffet, the best brekkie in town.

“We change our menu every day so there’s always variety, but we also make sure that the staples that customers have come to expect are always there.

That’s why we’ve always had Nutella available to our customers, but previously only in large jars, where we would go through two or three a week.

So when I saw Nutella portion control pack advertised, I had absolutely no hesitation in stocking up.

The great thing about the new portion control packs is you don’t get down to half a jar and have to clean it, by wiping it down to keep it presentable. The Nutella 20g Portion Control Packs are all individually packed, so there’s less mess and no wastage.”

So why not follow Peter’s example by adding Nutella T120 PC packs to your breakfast offering and give your customers the terrific taste of

Armory NUT0005_OH

Australia’s best-loved hazelnut spread!

For more information call 1800 199 183 or visit www.ferrero.com.au/foodservice/nutella/home.html

OPEN HOUSE NEWS

Coffee dominates hot beverage market C

offee is now the dominant hot beverage in Australia despite the cost of coffee rising sharply in the last two years, according to BIS Foodservice’s Coffee and Beverages 2012 report.

The total market for coffee in terms of number of units purchased for the away from home and away from work market has increased from 1.8 billion in 2010 to 2.1 billion in 2012, representing a rise of 19.5 per cent.

In the past two years the average price of an away-fromhome, espresso-based coffee rose 7 per cent from an average of $3.62 per cup to $3.86, and is expected to hit $4 a cup for the first time in the near future.

“The away from home coffee market is expected to grow between 10 and 15 per cent within the next two years driven very much by the younger generation, while coffee consumed in the workplace – both made at work and outside the workplace – is also expected to rise,” said Sissel Rosengren, head of BIS Foodservice.

better quality cup of tea,” he said. “In 2012 we still have the extraordinary situation where many high-end cafés

Australia’s shift to become a “coffee nation” has come at the expense of tea consumption, which has fallen across all areas, particularly among the young.

use tea bags instead of tea leaves in a pot despite it being

“Operators need to understand the value in producing a

when they spend $3 on hot water and a teabag.”

well known that using tea leaves will produce a better quality cup of tea. Consumers tend to feel short-changed

Regional restaurant named Australia’s best Regional restaurant Eleonore’s Restaurant, located at the historic Chateau Yering Hotel in Yering, Victoria, has been named Restaurant of the Year at this year’s 2012 Savour Australia Restaurant & Catering HostPlus Awards for Excellence awards night. The restaurant also won the Fine Dining Restaurant category.

The awards recognised 211 restaurants and 68 caterers from across the country who had excelled in their category, winning their state or regional awards to make the finals.

CONTENTS

Through the RACES Evaluation System venues were assessed by trained judges who dine anonymously and review the experience according to a predetermined,

Industry news......................................... 04 Cover story – Farm Pride Foods............ 08 Profile – Damien Pignolet...................... 10 Origins of pavlova ................................ 11 Consultant chef...................................... 11 Cafe options........................................... 12

research-based and standardised set of criteria.

Other major winners included Eurest (Australia) – Westpac Banking Group, Sydney, named Caterer of the Year, as well as Corporate Caterer of the Year.

Brisbane Convention & Exhibition Centre received the Green Table Award for Excellence in Environmental Sustainability and Crown Melbourne’s food and beverage team received The George Mure Memorial Professional Development Award 2012 for the second year in a row.

A full list of winners can be found at www.restaurantcater.asn.au.

Stocks and sauces................................... 14

Editor’s word

I

’m sure you’d agree that it’s been a challenging year for many in the hospitality industry, with 2012 seeing the closure of a number of high-profile restaurants and many more struggling under the dual pressures of wages growth and the cost of utilities.

However, it’s not all doom and gloom, with retail trade date for the year to July showing that turnover was up 7 per cent on the same period in 2011 at $19.2 billion, and BIS Shrapnel research suggesting expenditure on foodservice will continue to grow over the next five years.

What has changed is where diners are spending their money, with evidence suggesting that more than ever people are looking for value for money and more casual-style dining.

Instead of dwelling on how challenging the market is, let’s make 2013 the year the industry meets those challenges head on and rethinks what it’s offering diners and how it’s delivering it.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you from everyone at Open House.

Ylla Wright Managing Editor @ohfoodservice

Pavlova.

Healthy eating........................................ 16 Cooking the books................................. 18 Products................................................. 20 Culinary clippings.................................. 22

11

www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, December 2012/January 2013 3

NEWS

Veggies top US food trend list F

oodservice researcher Technomic has released its predictions for 2013 for the US foodservice sector.

Topping the list is the rise of vegetables as the star of a meal. With vegetarianism becoming increasingly mainstream consumers are becoming more comfortable trying different vegetables and even foregoing meat in their meal altogether.

Operators are also embracing vegetables to curb the rising costs of proteins.

Grains are taking more of a central role in many menus, with their combination of texture, taste and high levels of protein. Gluten-free grains such as quinoa, amaranth, millet, wild rice, corn, oats and buckwheat are being seen more in menus, with polenta, couscous or bulgur also increasing in popularity due to the rise of ethnic cuisines.

South American cuisine that goes beyond Mexico to include Brazil, Argentina and Peru is also increasingly popular. Other trends included ramen, chicken, snack fare and premium dinerand deli-inspired offerings.

Organics industry goes mainstream Consumer interest in organic food is at all time high, according to the latest Australian Organic Market Report.

Commissioned by organic body Biological Farmers of Australia (BFA), the new research found that more than one in 20 Australians regularly purchase organic products and almost two in three have bought organic in the past year, pushing the organics industry into the mainstream.

The organics industry is now worth $1.27 billion to Australia and is predicted to grow by up to 15 per cent each year, putting it within the top five growth industries in Australia.

Farm gate sales of organic products have risen by 34 per cent since 2010, with fresh fruit and vegetables the most commonly purchased organic products. The meat sector has experienced a dramatic increase since 2010 with sales of beef up by 111 per cent to $72.7 million, lamb rising by 64 per cent to $18.6 million and poultry increasing by 15 per cent to $17.8 million.

“Sixty-five per cent of Australians have bought organic in the past year and more than a million Australians do so regularly,” said Dr Andrew Monk, BFA director and co-author of the report.

“Three prior noted top barriers to buying organics – price, ease of access/availability and trust in the

product being organic – have all been reported as being lesser barriers for consumers than in 2010.”

Food safety experts caution against cross-contamination According to Food Standards Australia New Zealand research, 84 per cent of raw chicken carcasses tested positive to the food poisoning bacteria Campylobacter and 22 per cent to Salmonella.

The Food Safety Information Council released the information in the lead up to Australian Food Safety Week last month, reporting that notified cases of illness from Campylobacter and Salmonella in Australia have almost doubled over the last 20 years.

The Food Safety Information Council supplied the following tips to avoid cross contamination from raw poultry: • Do not wash raw poultry before cooking as this will spread any bacteria throughout your kitchen.

Mop up any excess moisture with paper towel.

• Always wash and dry hands and clean surfaces after contact with raw poultry.

• Defrost poultry in the fridge or microwave in a container which prevents juices dripping on other food.

• Make sure the raw poultry juices do not contaminate other food, especially food like desserts or salads that won’t be cooked again.

• Always use clean plates and utensils and wash and dry thoroughly between using for raw and cooked poultry. Never place cooked food back on the same plate or cutting board that previously held raw poultry.

• Cook poultry to 75°C using a meat thermometer in the thickest part or until the juices run clear and are no longer pink. Make sure frozen poultry is defrosted right through to the centre before cooking.

Top ham named Victorian butcher Wattle City Meats' ham has been named Australia’s top ham in the 2012 National Ham Awards for Excellence, against a field of 146 national entries in the categories bone-in and boneless ham.

Australian Pork’s national program manager, Martin Carr, presented the award during the recent Australian Ham Week while also promoting the “pink sticker” Australian PorkMark program, which aims to increase awareness of Australian-grown pork produce, with the industry reeling from a flood of cheaper imports, high grain prices and droughts.

“About 2.6 million kilos of frozen pork comes into our country every week,” Carr said. “Australian pork producers and local manufacturers find it really difficult to compete in this sector especially when imported pork [product] doesn’t have to compete

Want more industry news?

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4 Open House, December 2012/January 2013 www.openhousemagazine.net

with the same high standards that local pork does.”

To date, 370 butchers have adopted the pink Australian-grown logo on their product, with 87 per cent of the national herd covered by the system.

Speaking at the awards ceremony, Colin Fassnidge, head chef at 4Fourteen in Sydney, encouraged other operators and chefs to use their local butcher to stem the tide of imported pork products coming into Australia.

“We’re all about local,” he said. “We even know the name of the pigs we get here.”

Stars headed to Chef Jam 2013 An all-star line-up has been scheduled for industry-only event Chef Jam in March 2013, including Hawaiian chef and locavore Ed Kenney, from Town, Honolulu; UK-based restaurant consultant and writer Nick Lander; British wine writer and critic Jancis Robinson, and awardwinning chef Ben Shewry, from Attica, Melbourne.

Now in its second year, Chef Jam, which is part of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival, is designed to inspire and engage those across the food, wine and hospitality industry, with next year’s event also including an open forum for an afternoon of panel discussions and cooking demonstrations centred on the theme “Being Global”.

Chef Jam will be held on March 11, 2013. For more information, visit www.melbournefoodandwine.com.au/industry.

Schools program a success The NSW Country Areas Program (CAP), which aims to reduce the impact of distance and improve educational outcomes for geographically isolated schools, has concluded its inaugural CAP Chef program.

The program, which was run in collaboration with Open House contributor Glenn Austin, exposed students of 27 primary and secondary schools to the benefits of a healthy diet and lifestyle through a series of interactive learning experiences, such as the creation of a costed recipe.

The program also sought to expose students to authentic hospitality industry experiences via blogging and connected learning experiences.

Country Areas Program consultant for the project, Carla Saunders, says the program offered students a “fantastic opportunity for authentic learning”.

“Students could connect their learning to real world literacy and numeracy skills, create multimodel texts and form richer community networks with local experts, businesses and townspeople,” she said. “Relationships were key to the project. These sorts of connections are pivotal for all students but especially pertinent when maximising opportunity and equity for rural and remote students.”

While it’s up to the individual schools as to whether the program returns in 2013, Saunders says that “there are many great schools, enthusiastic teachers and engaged students who are very keen to continue the relationships that they have formed”.

Albert St Food & Wine's tasty winner Philippa Sibley of Albert St Food & Wine has won the inaugural Best in Taste Awards, held as part of the Taste of Melbourne festival, with her “Minted Mermaid” dish of pea and mint soup, smoked salmon and apple.

International guest chef and co-judge, Nuno Mendes, from Viajante Restaurant in the UK, said “Albert St Food & Wine’s soup was surprising in the most pleasant way, [the] clever use of ingredients and the combination of flavours made it a winner”.

The Aylesbury Restaurant & Rooftop won the Best Front of House award, with London-based restaurant writer, co-founder of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants and originator of The Best in Taste Awards, Joe Warwick, saying “all elements reflected the food that is being served”.

R&C boss accepts new role Restaurant & Catering Australia chief executive John Hart has been elected chair of the National Tourism Alliance.

Hart’s appointment recognises his extensive industry experience in strong advocacy and policy within the foodservice industries.

The hospitality industry is of major importance to the tourism industry as it is a major drawcard to visitors to Australia, with expenditure on foodservice representing the largest spend category within tourism marketplace.

Prawn fishery certified

Eleven-year-old Jim Skinner from St Josephs Primary School, Warialda, with his winning dish, Australian beef, crusted cheese mash, pea quenelle and carrot puree.

The Northern Prawn Fishery (NPF), Australia’s largest fishery, has been given Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) certification, with the fishery’s banana, tiger and endeavour prawns to now carry the blue MSC marine ecolabel.

“The NPF is now in a position to meet the growing consumer demand for sustainably sourced seafood by being one of only a handful of prawn fisheries around the world certified by the MSC, and the

Australia’s best dairy products named Tasmanian Heritage St Claire has been named Australia’s Grand Champion Cheese, beating a field of 153 cheeses, at the 2013 Australian Grand Dairy Awards (AGDA), with Bulla Premium Sour Cream taking out the award for Grand Champion Dairy Product.

Following an extensive assessment process which saw a panel of 21 highly trained judges spend two days testing 399 products submitted from 84 different companies around Australia, Twenty AGDA Champions were awarded across two categories (Cheese and Dairy), with the highest-scoring product in each category also recognised as Grand Champion.

A full list of winners can be found at www.dairyaustralia.com.au/agda.

first fishery in the world to supply MSC certified banana and tiger prawns,” said Patrick Caleo, MSC Manager Australia and New Zealand.

NPF chief executive Annie Jarrett said it was a “delicious Christmas bonus” for both the fishery and environmentally aware Australians.

“We are producing some of the world’s finest quality wild-caught prawns and we are keen to continue to improve our environmental credentials,” she said.

Taylor to join ‘hall of fame’ The Western Australian restaurant and catering industry has appointed Chris Taylor of Frasers Group Restaurants to its “Hall of Fame” at the recent 2012 Restaurant & Catering Association Hall of Fame Dinner.

Taylor has been recognised for his contribution to the industry as a culinary leader, innovator, educator and business operator.

Taylor was an early proponent of using the best local produce available and his belief in local produce and producers has seen him travel extensively, nationally and internationally, educating chefs and providores of the quality of produce available from Western Australia.

The Western Australian Tourism Commission and Western Australian Government frequently employ him to promote the state's produce through cooking classes and demonstrations, high profile dinners and gala events. OH

www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, December 2012/January 2013 5

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cover story

Small wonder Eggs are one of nature’s super foods, and a wonderful addition to any menu, and with Farm Pride Foods’ value-added egg products it’s easier than ever for foodservice operators to add them to their menu.

A

ll foodservice operators want a product that is convenient, cost effective, versatile and tasty enough to be the star of the dish. Luckily there is a product that fits the bill, one so widely used across all forms of cooking that it is almost taken for granted. The humble egg – gluten free and protein rich, eggs contain 18 essential vitamins and minerals, including omega-3, making them one of nature’s true super foods. They taste delicious as well.

trends in the foodservice sector, egg dishes are perfectly placed to capture a greater share of the market.

Businesses increasingly view breakfast as an important way to boost profits, and with eggs a staple for any breakfast menu, there is no better way to attract more business with less fuss. The key to a great egg offering is consistency and quality, which is why Farm Pride’s range of prepared egg products is the first choice for many operators.

With healthy eating, convenience and comfort food all emerging

Farm Pride Foods not only produces and markets shell eggs, which it has done for 75 years, it also has Australia’s largest egg processing plant, ensuring a direct line of

quality and consistency. Farm Pride’s value-added egg products make it easy for foodservice operators to purchase cooked egg products for use in food manufacturing, catering and hospitality. Their products come in a range of packaging options and sizes to ensure value for money and convenient chilled and frozen egg products every time.

For example, Farm Pride Poached Eggs are poached in a formed heat sealed plastic pack to provide perfectly cooked poached eggs every time – just warm and serve. Each sleeve of perfectly cooked poached eggs provides two different shaped eggs for that individual look. The plastic sleeve has been designed in such a way that when the backing is peeled away the poached egg can be hygienically inverted onto

a plate without being touched by hands. Perfect for breakfast, brunch or salads (see the recipe in the Open House iPad app for inspiration), Farm Pride Poached Eggs have been cooked to have a slight runny yolk and can be heated in a microwave, stove top or bain marie.

Farm Pride Scrambled Egg mix is ready to use for making fluffy scrambled eggs, there is no need to add anything. Scrambled egg mix can also be used as a base mixture for omelettes, quiches or frittatas.

The 8kg box comes with four resealable 2kg packs and can be cooked in a bain marie or thawed and cooked on a stove top.

Farm Pride Fried Eggs are convenient and ready to serve for breakfast or as an ingredient in a burger or filled roll. Prepared from first quality eggs and individually cooked and snap frozen, Farm Pride Fried Eggs can be microwave or oven heated.

Another convenient product for the lunch menu are Farm Pride Cooked Peeled Eggs which are ideal for sandwiches, egg salads, stuffed eggs, scotch eggs, hors d’oeuvres, hot egg dishes, party platters, casseroles or even pickled eggs. Already cooked and peeled, then packed in a modified atmosphere, Farm Pride Cooked Peeled Eggs can be stored for up to 35 days.

Image copyright: Red Candy Creative Agency.

Lunch or finger sandwiches for high teas are easy with Farm Pride’s Egg and Mayonnaise Spread. It is the perfect blend of hard boiled eggs and a traditional mayonnaise, making it a tasty hasslefree sandwich filling or a quality ingredient and addition to salads.

See recipe in the Open House iPad app.

8 Open House, December 2012/January 2013 www.openhousemagazine.net

Add a touch of luxury to your menu with Farm Pride French Crepes.

Made from Farm Pride’s quality whole egg, these crepes just need to be rehydrated by immersing quickly in hot water and then are ready to be filled for sweet or savoury use.

Serve either cold or hot, they can be heated in a microwave, with each crepe an 18cm x 18cm square for easy folding.

Chive Farm Pride scrambled eggs with smoked salmon, asparagus, choron sauce on French stick.

Whatever the need, Farm Pride Foods have it covered, with their commitment to quality and consistency providing operators with every combination of egg product needed to fit all menus, from catering through to cafés.

Cover image: Caesar salad with Farm Pride Poached Egg, crisp bacon and anchovies. OH

profile

Pub grub pioneer Renowned chef and restaurateur Damien Pignolet’s passion for perfection led the renaissance of pub food in Sydney, but it was his early education in hotel management that enabled him to find success both behind the stove and in business, writes Sheridan Randall.

W

hat goes around comes around – certainly true for renowned chef, restaurateur and cookbook author Damien Pignolet who finds himself as executive chef at the Bellevue Hotel Dining Room, a venue he once owned.

Sydney’s pub food scene has changed remarkably over the last few decades and to understand that change you only need to look at Pignolet’s career and the influence he and his late wife Josephine had on the whole sector.

The Bellevue Hotel had a basic restaurant attached when Pignolet bought it back in 2005, with a menu that consisted of sausages and mash, lamb cutlets and corned beef, along with topless waitresses.

Pignolet ditched the waitresses, gutted the kitchen, but kept the spirit of uncomplicated pub food, albeit improving the quality. He sold the venue in 2011, but less than 12 months later was brought back to work with head chef Nathan Lakeman to create a menu that still harks back to the spirit of feel-good food, but with an eye to perfection.

“I defy anyone to find a better corn beef anywhere,” Pignolet says. “We use wagyu silverside from the best butcher in town, and it’s beautifully

cooked, with beautiful sauce and beautiful mash and carrots, and it’s delicious. The lamb cutlets are deep fried crumbed with Japanese panko crumbs, which gives them a tremendous crunchiness, and because of the thickness of the crumbs and the heat of the deep fryer the quality of the meat is incredibly pink and very juicy.”

a choice – either leave the course or find a scholarship. Pignolet found support from the Hospital Charities Commission, on the condition that he worked at a hospital after graduating.

Pignolet has owned nine venues over his long career, winning numerous awards and three hats along the way. This remarkable success, although hard-earned, did not come unexpectedly, for he says that even “as a very small child all I ever wanted to do was to cook”.

After his stint running a hospital kitchen he applied for all sorts of jobs, “but nobody replied”, until the new Caulfield College of Technology opened and was in need of a kitchen manager.

“The real influence was my mother, who was a great cook although not a great technician.

But my God she could cook – the flavours were incredible.

The young Pignolet told his parents of his desire to become a chef, but his father was adamant that he should become a manager instead, as it paid better. Taking his father’s advice, he enrolled in a fouryear course in catering and hotel management at William Angliss College in Melbourne.

And then his father died. With the family’s breadwinner gone, he had

“In those days in the hospital, there were 80 staff in the kitchen, and there was virtually no convenience food, so we made everything ourselves, serving 3500 meals a day.”

“My brief was to break even, so I ran functions once a week and the profit that came from that augmented the low prices in the canteen,” he says.

“After the second year we had so much money we didn’t know what to do with it, so in the third year we chucked all of the equipment out and got new equipment just to get rid of the money.”

As much as the young Pignolet’s passion was for cooking, his father’s advice to become a manager would give him the foundation he needed to build on.

“The reality is I learnt a great deal from those years.”

It wasn’t until 1981 that Pignolet and his wife Josephine bought Claudes, and he could put into practice everything he had learned both as a chef and manager.

“In the first year we got one hat. The second year we got two hats and in the third year we got three hats. And we were awarded chef of the year, which had never been given to two people before,” he says.

Despite describing his relationship with Josephine as “magical”, the pressure of maintaining their reputation began to take its toll.

“There was nothing wrong with the food, it was beautiful but just too complicated,” he recalls.

See recipe in the Open House iPad app.

Following a tragic accident that killed his wife and seriously injured

10 Open House, December 2012/January 2013 www.openhousemagazine.net

Pignolet, he sold Claudes and looked for something that would “take away the pressure of preciousness that goes with food”. In 1992, Pignolet acquired the Woollahra Hotel, establishing Bistro Moncur.

“What I decided to do was create a Parisian bistro, in as much as it could be for Sydney, which was the first time any pub had a really serious restaurant,” he says.

Pignolet had anticipated doing 800 covers a week, instead they did 1800 a week.

“The demands were such that the it just became too big,” he says.

“The food wasn’t as sparkling fresh as it had been and the pressure on the kitchen, which had been designed for 800, was ridiculous. So I changed the menu and brought it back to something between a pure bistro menu and a restaurant, and introduced specials, which I had always wanted to do but because we were so busy we could never do it.”

Now back at the Bellevue, Pignolet is determined to keep things simple “but with high quality food”.

Being that rare commodity in the hospitality world, a great chef and great restaurateur, Pignolet says he loves doing both, but feels the role of the celebrity chef has overshadowed that of the restaurateur, who he describes as the “real superstars”.

“They create the mis en scene, the whole atmosphere and feeling of what a restaurant is about… [and] I know that I did that very successfully in all the restaurants I have created, particularly Claudes and also Bistro Moncur.”

Working as a mentor and supervisor, he says he is happy to keep a fairly low profile with the public.

“Because the moment you are there you are wanted all the time and the moment you aren’t they reckon the food is no good. I took a gentle path, and haven’t promoted myself and it has worked extremely well. It’s my life and I love it!” OH

origins of...

Pavlova

cornflour and vinegar and explains the correct method of cooking.

In Australia, it has been claimed that Bert Sachse first created the pavlova at the Hotel Esplanade in Perth in 1935. According to him it was originally created as a tea dessert to be served as part of the hotel’s afternoon teas. Anna Pavlova had been a guest at the hotel during her tour and when Sachse presented the dessert at a meeting, someone commented “it’s as light as Pavlova” and so the dish was named.

The source of more arguments between Australia and New Zealand than the Bledisloe Cup, the origins of pavlova are still up for debate, writes Megan Kessler. ustralians and New Zealanders have long debated the origins of pavlova. Each argue that they were first to make the pavlova and claim it as their national dessert.

A

and New Zealand in 1926, and Australia again in 1929. Pavlova was considered the most famous ballet dancer at the time and was known for her solo performance in Swan Lake.

Also in 1926 a New Zealand cookbook was published with a recipe for “meringue with fruit filling”, which although not called pavlova used a similar recipe.

Pavlova is a light, fruity dessert typically enjoyed in summer but eaten all year round by Australians and New Zealanders. It is has meringue base, which includes cornstarch to give it a soft, marshmallow-like centre and crisp outside. It is topped with whipped cream and fresh fruit such as strawberries and kiwis.

In his book Anna Pavlova: Her life and art, Keith Money writes that the pavlova was first created by a chef working at a hotel in Wellington, New Zealand, in 1926. Apparently the chef was inspired by the dancer’s white tutu covered in green roses.

The dessert’s basic meringue shell was meant to symbolise the tutu and the netting was suggested by the whipped cream. The chef placed kiwi fruit on top of the cream to look like the roses.

Food historian Helen Leach cites a 1929 pavlova recipe which she discovered in a rural New Zealand magazine along with 21 other pavlova recipes from New Zealand.

The recipes are dated prior to the mid-1930s, when Australia claims to have invented the dessert.

Recipes for Pavlova first start appearing after the Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova toured Australian

Leach also found a recipe for pavlova published in a 1933 Rangiora Mothers’ Union Cookery Book. The recipe was for one large cake that was made from egg whites, sugar,

Let’s keep kitchens cape-free Lately I have heard the term “super chef” being used on several occasions. My concern is that I don’t have anyone of that title on my brigade, or know of any within the industry or, more to the point, know of any that are proclaimed by the industry rather than the media.

However it is food and beverage, and operations managers, not the culinary brigade that is using the term. It is astounding the effect that reality television has on our managers and business owners in conjuring up such ridiculous titles.

A colleague suggested he was looking for a super chef to fill a void in the team – someone to write fantastic menus with great cooking skills; someone cutting edge; someone innovative; someone who could also run the kitchen and motivate the team. I suggested that he was looking for a head chef but no, he was still looking for more.

My sarcasm suggested that the super chef may also need to be a media star – which may require him to also employ a food stylist, a publicist and a culinary development researcher, a makeup artist for morning meetings, and a motivational speaker would be handy also – but my colleague still didn’t get it. Super chef or bust.

In 1999 the world’s largest pavlova was baked to celebrate the one year anniversary of New Zealand’s national museum Te Papa. It measured 45 metres in length and was named “Pavzilla”. However, this record was beaten in 2005 by students from the Eastern Institute of Technology in New Zealand who made a pavlova that was 64 metres long.

Whether it was an Australian or New Zealander who first invented the pavlova, it has become an iconic national dessert in both countries.

There are a number of adaptations and variations on the traditional dessert including chocolate pavlova, miniature and layered versions, and a spiced version with walnuts. OH

Consultant chef

amount of profit for the business.

Our industry colleagues need to acknowledge that the title executive chef, head chef or simply chef is a title that we are very proud of – to be called this is respect enough.

For most of us, being a chef is almost more of a vocation than a job; as culinary craftsman we are driven by enthusiasm to our craft.

Yet no matter how spectacular and innovative the end result may be, we now need “super” status.

Apparently the term “chef” is not a sufficient enough title any more.

Most times you will find that it is those around us that feel the need for titles. When asked what I do for a living I am proud to say I am a cook. That response generally sends a shock wave down the audience’s spine; people are quick to start laying titles on me to suit their agenda, but tell me this, has ever seen someone “chef” a duck? Do not get caught up in other people’s agendas – be proud of your trade.

The dictionary definition of chef is “a professional cook”.

My definition of a chef is a professional, trained individual who has sufficient cooking skills, which will deliver both customer satisfaction and the appropriate

In this day and age a chef who runs a profitable business, trains and assists others and regularly serves fresh food in a clean and safe environment, to the specifications of his employer has earned sufficient respect and status to be referred

Glenn Austin

www.austinwright.com.au to as a super chef, in that they are responsible for the outcome, and therefore my chef is a super chef.

It is hard enough to keep a team, not to mention keep them motivated and accepting of working conditions that are for the most part stressful and producing great food, without the added pressure of having to be the recipient of a ridiculous title from a person who knows nothing about their job.

www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, December 2012/January 2013 11

café options

Pushing the right buttons Automatic coffee machines have long been regarded as the poor cousin of manual machines operated by a barista, but with new technology coming into the market that may be about to change, discovers Sheridan Randall.

A

ustralia has officially turned into a nation of coffee drinkers, according to the latest BIS Foodservice’s Coffee and Beverages 2012 report, with the total market for coffee in terms of number of units purchased for the away from home and away from work market increasing by 19.5 per cent to 2.1 billion in 2012, compared with 2010.

That rise hasn’t gone unnoticed with more operators in the quick service

restaurant (QSR) sector looking to enter an area that was previously regarded as a sideline but is now seen to be a very profitable segment, according to Maico LaPenna, national sales manager at Coffee Works Express.

“What you will see is the franchise chains and QSR sector starting to head down the café model where they want to offer the end user a great cup of coffee, something that is consistent but where they don’t have to invest in trained baristas.”

“Everyone is looking for the best offering for their environment, and they [operators] are coming into it with the view to be known for their coffee,” he says.

This is where the automatic and semiautomatic coffee machines are starting to gain some traction in the market.

Professional Knife Range

However, that has changed with the majority of new automatic machines now using fresh beans and fresh milk, says Boris Georgiou, marketing and brand development manager at Australian Beverage Corporation.

“It’s not the machines that are the problem it’s just that Australian coffee drinkers see it and they go no… they see it as a vending thing, without realising that it’s actually really good espresso coffee with real milk, it’s just automatic. That’s changing as their palates become more discerning and they learn more about coffee and about what is possible, and with that their perceptions are slowly shifting.”

Distributed by VGM International Pty Ltd sales@vgmimports.com.au • Toll Free: 1800 650 601

“[They need to] control the volume of ground coffee going into each shot and control the amount of water passing through that coffee and control the speed of extraction.

In a strong barista-dominated coffee culture such as Australia, automatic coffee machines have often been dismissed as a coffee of last resort, with many machines of old using powdered milk and coffee concentrate.

“With the rise globally of fresh order coffee the super automatics have started to catch up,” Georgiou says.

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cup of coffee,” Gabrielian says.

Sam Gabrielian, owner of Sydneybased boutique coffee roaster Di Gabriel, doesn’t yet supply to clients with automatic machines, but concedes that the technology is improving rapidly.

“Technology might get to that level where it’s 80 per cent perfect but there is always that element of a barista touch that makes a perfect

12 Open House, December 2012/January 2013 www.openhousemagazine.net

Fast facts from BIS Foodservice’s Coffee and Beverages 2012 report • The total market for coffee in terms of number of units purchased for the away from home and away from work market has increased from 1.8 billion in 2010 to 2.1 billion in 201.

• In the past two years the average price of an away-from-home, espresso-based coffee rose seven per cent from an average of $3.62 per cup to $3.86.

• On average, every Australian aged over 14 spends $8.60 per week on coffee away from home, which equates to $447 per year.

• On average Australians drink 1.8 coffees in a typical week both away from home and away from the workplace, representing a rise of 0.3 coffees per person since 2010.

If they can control these three variables then they can offer an excellent automatic coffee machine.”

Coffee Works Express represent Swiss-made coffee machine manufacturer Franke, which have started to release higher end automatic models that have much greater control of the variables traditionally associated with a manual machine and a good barista.

“With the higher end automatics you can adjust your milk control – there are air intake valves which slow or increase the flow of the milk to create the right consistency and texture whether it be a flat white, cappuccino or café latte,” says LaPenna.

“Consistency can be achieved with programming. You can set your model up [to] drop the same dose every time and the same extraction time depending on the bean. Also there is no wastage, whereas with a traditional

barista environment there is always going to be some wastage,” he says.

This ability to control machines is a vital aspect for the QSR sector, with one of the main challenges for any operator looking to open multiple outlets being how to replicate a product en masse using staff with minimal training and still ensure a consistent experience every time for the consumer.

Georgiou cites the South Korean coffee franchise Caffe Bene, which has opened more than 750 stores in just a few years. The chain uses Dalla Corte semi-automatic machines, which allows them to control variables, track usage in live time and achieve uniform consistency from a centralised computer.

“One of the reasons they were able to do this was they had a consistent product and total control over their system, which up until this point in time no QSR was able to do,” Georgiou says.

“Dalla Corte is a traditional espresso machine with a DC system that has a series of technologies that semi automate different parts of the machine. The whole idea is

you have an espresso machine and grinder and the system is a way for all the elements to communicate to each other in automated fashion. If you’re a good barista, the machine will work like a good machine.

However, you can also put someone who isn’t so good on it and if they start falling out of their variables the machine will pick up the slack on their behalf.”

The semi-automatic machines also use an online control system (OCS), meaning that every machine can be linked up via the internet to a central computer, making it ideal for operators who need to ensure consistency across their brand.

“You can measure every machine in live time,” he says. You can review each shot and if something is wrong you can change it remotely.”

The ability to monitor volume helps eliminate wastage and minimises the risk of employee fraud.

The machine also warns when something is about to go wrong, so saving time and energy when it comes to fixing things.

So do intelligent coffee machines spell the end of barista coffee

sometime in the future?

“A barista with a manual machine is very conscious of how old the coffee is, what coffee they are using, or whether the coffee bag has been open over the weekend,” says Gabrielian.

The fact is, whether it is a manual espresso machine or an automatic, the type of coffee bean used, how long it left in the machine, how often the machine is cleaned, and what variables the machine is calibrated at, such as dose and extraction time, are all factors in determining the quality of the end product.

“If it’s done properly, with better equipment, and new technology, I think it is possible to make perfect barista style coffee [with an automatic machine], but it’s a way off yet,” says Gabrielian.

The away from home coffee market is expected to grow between 10 and 15 per cent within the next two years driven by the younger generation, according to BIS Shrapnel. And given the younger generation’s acceptance of technology in more and more areas of their lives, that day may be closer than some think. OH

www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, December 2012/January 2013 13

stocks and sauces

Some like it hot See recipe in the Open House iPad app.

From China to South America to India, when it comes to saucing up a dish nothing beats adding chilli, writes Sheridan Randall.

H

aving captured the imagination of chefs across the world since it first appeared in the top restaurants in Hong Kong in the 1980s, XO sauce is now a staple in restaurants across the globe.

consuming and requires patience, as too much heat causes it to capture really easily leading to the sauce becoming bitter, he says.

Choosing premium ingredients is also paramount.

XO sauce relies on a relatively small, albeit expensive, number of ingredients – the key one being dried scallops which can cost hundreds of dollars a kilo.

“With XO you rely on really beautiful chillies, a little ginger and garlic and some really top draw dried scallop and dried shrimps.

The quality of the dried scallops is really important because you can buy some really horrible ones in the packet or you can buy loose ones in Chinatown which are much more expensive but go a long way because the flavour is so much better. If you can spend $50 on XO sauce it will last you a year or two and you’ll get a lot of use from it as you don’t need very much.”

“We try to make it as plain as possible, with loads and loads of dried scallops, dried shrimp, heaps of fresh red chillies, ginger, garlic, lots of oil, and little bit of sugar and light soy and shallot rounds at the end and that’s it,” says Andy Evans, head chef at Spice Temple Sydney.

With the sauce rotating on the menu at Spice Temple depending on what dishes are being featured, Evans says the kitchen always likes to have a base XO sauce on hand.

“What you do is you make the base sauce and that never changes, and you keep that in the fridge, and as long as some twit doesn’t put his fingers in, it lasts up to a year,” he says. The kitchen only adds “all your other bits and pieces”, such as bacon, when it has been decided what dish it is accompanying.

Another reason for leaving the bacon out of the base sauce is its saltiness, which can change over time.

“Any salt levels you can adjust post making the sauce rather than trying to fix it up afterwards,” Evans says.

Preparing the sauce is time

South American food is high on everyone’s radar at the moment, and with that comes an appetite for some classic Mexican sauces.

Brisbane’s Granada Café Tapas Bar puts out about 1000 handmade corn tortillas a week, with freshly made habanero hot sauce served on the side. Describing it as their signature sauce, owner and head chef David Steeden says the restaurant grows its own habanero chillies and makes sure their sauce “has plenty of kick to it”.

“It’s not complicated – we put in habaneros, onion, garlic, carrot, red capsicum, and we cook it down,” Steeden says. “Because they are very spicy chillies, we tend to cook them whole in the sauce

with vinegar and a little sugar. We cook it for quite a while, because we want the seeds and the skin to disintegrate in the sauce. We find if we cook it for half a day and then blend it and pass through a sieve most of the pulp of the sauce goes into it.”

Describing it as “quite peppery”, he says that the sauce “does behave in a different way”, with the hot sensation in the mouth sharp but short.

“As opposed to some Asian chilli sauces that stick with you for half an hour or more, with our sauce that initial hot feeling is gone in five or 10 minutes.”

Another Brisbane eatery that has been converting the locals over to Mexican cuisine is El Torito. Owner Jorge Perez, who hails from El Salvador, says his signature dish is the mole poblano, a traditional Mexican dish with a spicy chocolate sauce served during celebrations. Using 38 different ingredients, including many different types of chilli, it is actually a simplified version of the traditional recipe which has over 100 ingredients.

“The chillies, which can be habanero, negro, mulatto, Californian chilli, must be dry and in good condition for the best flavour,” Perez says.

Once all the ingredients have been roasted or grilled, they are ground, put in a pot with chicken stock and slow cooked, at which point the dark

14 Open House, December 2012/January 2013 www.openhousemagazine.net

chocolate is added. The sauce then is added to chicken breast or thigh and garnished with sesame seeds.

Another sauce commonly associated with chillies is curry, although according to Ajoy Koshi, owner of Sydney restaurant Nilgiri’s, it should not be thought of as a sauce as it is cooked together with meat or vegetables.

“Curry as we know it is comes from the region of Madras, with curry coming from the Tamil word ‘kari’ which means a pepper flavoured sauce,” says Koshi. “The rest of the country makes a dish with a spice, a herb, some chilli and a protein or vegetable, with either tomato or yogurt. Having said this, the whole world thinks that India is all about curry.”

The sauce part of the dish is based on one of two ingredients – yogurt if it's korma, and tomato if it's kalia.

Generally korma uses “green” or young chillies and includes nuts to stop the sauce from splitting, while kalia uses dried chilli in the form of chilli powder.

“Once you have those you simply build on top of it,” he says.

“Indian food believes that a dish is incomplete if it is not prepared as one. There is a process. You can’t just put a bit of spice, put a bit of chilli and put it all together and call it an Indian dish – it’s a confused dish, and a confused dish is generally called a curry. If it has no beginning and no end – that’s a curry.” OH

I A’ S F AV O

FOODSERVICE Dairy for Today’s Professionals

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healthy eating

Fat chance Obesity is one of the biggest problems facing Australia, but is it a problem that foodservice businesses need to address, asks Ylla Wright.

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hen Unilever Food Solutions (UFS), Obesity Prevention Australia and high-profile chef Christine Manfield called on chefs to help tackle Australia’s obesity epidemic by taking part in the inaugural Good Fork Week, held in late October, it raised the question of whether foodservice businesses have a responsibility to provide healthy choices for consumers.

With 61 per cent of Australian adults either overweight or obese and with one of the world’s highest rates of childhood obesity, there is no doubt obesity is one of biggest problems Australia faces. Current trends will see the number of overweight or obese adults increase to about 70 per cent by 2020.

According to Yezdi Daruwalla, managing director of Unilever Food Solutions, “the idea behind Good Fork Week stemmed from the findings of our third World

Menu Report which highlights that foodservice venues around the world are not meeting their diners’ needs when it comes to providing nutritious options on their menu”.

“Our report found that 74 per cent of Aussie diners would prefer healthy food options when eating out but many feel that the healthier options on menus are ‘more expensive’ and are often ‘not very filling’,” he said. “Chefs across Australia can help diners eat more nutritiously without having to compromise on taste and experience by making small changes to their menu.”

The Good Fork Week initiative called on operators to adapt an existing menu item to make it more nutritious, while still maintaining taste and appeal, using tips from Unilever's “Seductive Nutrition” booklet. Operators were then provided with marketing materials

including posters, door stickers and buttons to help them get the message out to customers.

Speaking at the launch of the program in October, Manfield, owner and operator of Universal restaurant in Sydney, said that the “level of obesity in Australia is unacceptable” and urged chefs to be smarter about the food they serve – using “flavour bombs” and healthier natural ingredients; ditching chips in favour of more creative vegetable dishes; using protein judiciously; swapping to cooking methods such as steaming roasting and baking which require minimal or no fat, and scaling back portion sizes.

“Vegetables for me are the star of the table,” she said. “I have reduced the protein content in all our dishes; it’s not about big lumps of meat on a plate. For me the vegetable goes in first and

then I introduce small amounts of protein if I need to, which might be vegetarian-based, such as tofu or eggs. The options are infinite; its imagination that’s required.

“The other really important thing is quantity. I find it alarming that some places have what I call American-sized portions that are obscene to look at. People get palate death after a few mouthfuls, so it’s better to have small quantities and enjoy it.”

Manfield also called on foodservice professionals to take steps to safeguard their own health.

“I have a few favourite sayings and one of them is ‘we are what we eat’,” she said. “I think the days of ‘never trust a skinny chef’ have gone out the window; I think it should be ‘never trust a fat chef’.

Let’s reverse it. There’s a lot of work to be done in our industry.”

Citing the first line of her first cookbook, Paramount Cooking, Manfield concluded by saying that “life’s too short to eat bad food”.

“It’s my core philosophy, both professionally and personally, and it’s my little way of helping in the fight against obesity,” she said.

“Everyone has to do their bit.”

While UFS would have been “been happy with 100 outlets” signing up to the inaugural Good Fork Week, according to Daruwalla, the final number topped 360 venues across Australia, ranging from high-profile restaurants such as Porteno in Sydney and Restaurant Amuse in Perth to bars and hotels.

Amongst the companies to participate in the event was Alliance Catering, which operates more than 130 foodservice operations nationwide, taking in corporate and industrial workplaces, schools, tertiary institutions and aged-care facilities.

See recipe in the Open House iPad app.

16 Open House, December 2012/January 2013 www.openhousemagazine.net

Christine Manfield’s curry fish salad.

“We serve over 180,000 individuals in our corporate and industrial workplaces and we’ve got a responsibility to serve good, healthy food,” says Samuel Burke, food development manager northern region, business and industry, at Alliance Catering.

“We have our own healthy eating program, called Wellbeing "it's vital", and Good Fork Week tied in well with that. We already have a healthy item on our menus every day, but we thought it was a good idea to promote it more.”

Feedback from both the companies’ chef managers, who each determined

the dish on their menu they wanted to showcase, and customers has been extremely positive.

“Anyone can make something healthy but it has to taste good and present well as well,” says Burke. “The challenge is how you make healthy food attractive to the customer and not a ‘have to’ choice.

“Gone are the days when it was acceptable for a caterer to just put out a lasagne or a burger. They need to be looking at all the great ingredients that are available to use – things like quinoa, pomegranate and lean meat cuts like lamb rump.

It opens up a whole new repertoire.”

Daruwalla believes Good Fork Week struck a chord with both diners and foodservice operators, some of whom report selling out of their “hero dish”.

“As our World Menu Report research suggests, the dining public already has an appetite for more nutritious dishes when eating out,” he says. “Good Fork Week encouraged chefs to make a small change to address this need and gave them some information on how to do this practically and

effectively on their menus.

“The level of interest and passion that the week generated has far surpassed what we hoped for when we were planning the event.

We have already had a number of businesses express an interest in being involved in next year’s event, which really shows the high level of engagement that the event created.”

Given the current rates of obesity in Australia, Daruwalla believes that “the foodservice industry undoubtedly has a part to play in the fight against obesity”.

“Good Fork Week is the first step in a more permanent change in the habits and mindsets of chefs and diners,” he says. “In essence, chefs and operators were encouraged to adapt their best-selling dishes by making them slightly healthier than previously, whilst concurrently enhancing their overall appeal to diners. This will eventually lead to more permanent change on menus. It is a positive first step, with many restaurants looking to make permanent changes to their menu off the back of the week.”

From left: Yezdi Daruwalla, Unilever Food Solutions; Katrina Hodgkinson, NSW Minister for Primary Industries and Small Business; Christine Manfield, Universal restaurant; Levi Walz, Obesity Prevention Australia.

Levi Walz, chief executive of Obesity Prevention Australia, a non-profit organisation commited to reducing the incidence of obesity and metabolic syndrome in Australia, believes that Good Fork Week is a step in the right direction when it comes to tackling Australia’s obesity epidemic.

“Obesity is the number one cause of preventable disease in Australia, which means that reducing excess weight is the number one way for people to reduce their risk of cancer, heart disease, diabetes,” he said.

“Ninety-eight per cent of Australian diners do not know their recommended daily fat intake, which I think shows just how far we have to go in educating Australians in regard to their health.

“I guess what this initiative is really about is showing the public that good, healthy food doesn’t have to be boring; it doesn’t have to be bland, and it doesn’t have to be expensive. It’s about helping people create healthier habits. It may seem like a small change but the carry-on effects are enormous.” OH

www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, December 2012/January 2013 17

cooking the Books

In the pink The Basque country in Spain has a strong cultural identity and is known as a food lover’s paradise. Here, expat chef Ash Mair shares one of his favourite dishes, using fresh, seasonal produce.

Seared salmon with prawns, butter bean bisque and alioli Serves: 4

P

rawn shells make a flavourful sauce to serve with just about any fish, in this case salmon and the prawns themselves. The heads are full of flavour which is brought out by sautéing them until bright red and aromatic then simmering briefly. Salmon holds up well to the strong flavours in this sauce, but the addition of creamy butter beans adds a mellow note. Before searing the salmon, dry the skin thoroughly. This will give you a delightful crispy skin.

2 plum tomatoes 15ml olive oil 1 small carrot, peeled and finely diced 200g dry butter (fava) beans, cooked or 2 x 400g cans of cooked butter beans, drained and rinsed 4 salmon fillets skin on (about 150g) Coarse sea salt 100 ml alioli (see box) Light olive oil, to drizzle Broth 15ml mild olive oil 12 raw large prawns, heads and shells removed and reserved (leave the tail flaps on for presentation) 1 garlic clove, peeled ½ small onion, peeled and chopped

½ small carrot, peeled and chopped ½ celery stalk, chopped 1 bay leaf Small pinch of saffron 5 black peppercorns 100ml white wine 1 tablespoon plain flour 1 tablespoon tomato paste 400ml water Coarse sea salt To make the broth, heat the olive oil in a pan over medium heat and add the prawn heads and shells. Sauté until deep red and aromatic, then add the garlic, onion, carrot, celery, bay leaf, saffron and peppercorns. Sweat down for a few minutes to soften the vegetables then add the white wine. Reduce until the wine has evaporated and the mixture is dry; sprinkle over the flour and stir to combine.

This is an edited recipe from My Basque Cuisine by Ash Mair (New Holland, $40).

Alioli

Makes: 180ml 1-3 garlic cloves, peeled, crushed to a paste with ¼ teaspoon coarse sea salt 1 egg yolk 5ml white wine vinegar 5ml water 75ml vegetable oil 75ml extra virgin olive oil Put the crushed garlic in a bowl with the egg yolk, vinegar, water and salt, then whisk to combine.

Continue whisking while slowly drizzling in the oils to make an emulsion.

Whisk in more oil to thicken the emulsion or add water to thin it.

The alioli will thicken considerably when refrigerated. Refrigerate in an airtight container.

MasterChef: The Professionals to Filming has started on the next series of MasterChef, which will see professional chefs go head to head under the intimidating gaze of acclaimed British chef Marco Pierre White, who will co-host the show with food critic Matt Preston.

Scheduled to screen early next year, MasterChef: The Professionals will see 18 qualified chefs competing to win an around-the-world trip to apprentice at world-renowned restaurants, as well as a cash prize. Network Ten is remaining tight lipped about who the contestants are, saying only that they “range from chefs to head chefs, private chefs and catering managers”.

Filmed in Melbourne, the show will be set in a

18 Open House, December 2012/January 2013 www.openhousemagazine.net

brand new, purpose-built commercial kitchen, and feature elements new to this series.

Marco Pierre White, who has previously employed the likes of Gordon Ramsay, Heston Blumenthal and Australia’s own Shannon Bennett and Curtis Stone, will mentor the contestants.

“MasterChef: The Professionals is the perfect show for me,” White said. “It embodies everything that I love about cooking: the challenges, the pressure of service and, of course, the core skills and passion required to being an exceptional chef.”

Viewers can expect plenty of fireworks however, say Network Ten, with White expected to challenge contestants just as much as he inspires them.

What’s on shelf this month?

Sydney Seafood School Cookbook: tips, techniques & recipes from Australia’s leading chefs by Roberta Muir (Penguin Group, $49.99)

Origin: The food of Ben Shewry (Murdoch Books, $95)

Zumbarons by Adriano Zumbo (Murdoch Books, $24.95)

The Sydney Seafood School has been teaching people how to choose, store, prepare, cook and serve seafood, for more than 20 years, welcoming many of Sydney’s top chefs onto its program along the way. Here the school’s manager Roberta Muir presents a collection of 80 recipes demonstrated over the years by chefs including Kylie Kwong, Tetsuya Wakuda, Neil Perry, Guillaume Brahimi and Matt Moran. From simple (sea urchin roe) sandwiches to signature dishes such as Dietmar Sawyere’s chilled vichyssoise with oyster beignets, there’s plenty to inspire in this book, even if the step-by-step “how-to” information isn’t of interest.

Ben Shewry, head chef of three-hat Melbourne restaurant Attica (ranked number 63 in the S.Pellegrino World’s Best Restaurants list), is often said to be known for his “narrative food”, so its perhaps not surprising that this sumptuous new cookbook is also “part story book, part picture book”. Typical of his dishes is “Potato cooked in the earth it was grown”, which pays homage to the traditional Maori hangi (underground oven) and is accompanied by Shewry’s reminiscences of growing up in New Zealand. While this book is no doubt destined for a lot of coffee tables, chefs will appreciate the artistry of the dishes.

Sydney pastry chef Adriano Zumbo is arguably singlehandedly responsible for the macaron craze sweeping Australian, thanks to his turns on MasterChef creating the jewel-like biscuits. Encompassing both sweet and savoury varieties of macarons, this quirky book is far from a one trick pony however. Flavours range from wasabi and picked ginger, kalamata olive and gin and tonic to blueberry lavender, peach iced tea, and fig, burnt honey and red wine, in all the colours of the rainbow. As this book amply proves, there really is no limit to what you can do with a macaron once you master the basics.

generous mentor of chefs who have become some of the world’s best. He is a slightly scary bloke who can flip between volcanic intensity and a wonderful supportive warmth in seconds.”

dissimilar to working in a “real” kitchen, where customers are waiting for their food outside, the most stressful part was “constantly being watched by cameras, crew and judges”.

British-based Tasmania chef Ash Mair (pictured, opposite page), knows first-hand how much of a rollercoaster competing in MasterChef: The Professional can be, having won the UK series in 2011.

“It was impossible to hide anything and if it went wrong you knew it would be seen on TV by millions of viewers,” he said.

debut in 2013 “I love nothing more than testing chefs,” he says.

“I want to push them to their extremes so they can discover who they really are and, in doing so, live out their full potential. I will find the next Australian culinary superstar.”

The youngest chef to be awarded three Michelin stars at age 33 (the record has since been broken

by Italian Massimiliano Alajmo, who won three stars at the age of 28 in 2002), White is considered by many to be one of the world’s most influential chefs of the past 25 years.

“He is a culinary giant, a perennial over-achiever and a ferociously and famously tough task master,” says Preston. “Marco Pierre White is a

“Having the opportunity to be a part Professional MasterChef was such a great feeling but to actually win it was a dream come true,” he says. “When my name was announced as the winner I was in shock; I think I was hit with just about every emotion all at once, but mostly overwhelming joy.”

Since winning the series Mair, who was working as a freelance chef in London at the time, has joined Spanish restaurant group Grupo Bilbao Berria as executive chef, overseeing the opening of their first UK restaurant in London early next year. He was also written a cookbook, My Basque Cuisine, which was released in Australia last month (see recipe, opposite page).

Looking back Mair says his time in the MasterChef kitchen was a great learning experience, not only about food and cooking, but also about his own limits. While cooking in the kitchen wasn’t

“I’m still not sure if winning has actually sunk in; it still feels a bit like a dream even a year later but I’m just so happy that all the work paid off,” he says. OH

www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, December 2012/January 2013 19

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German drink hits Australia German-made beverage Bionade has arrived in Australia just in time for summer. The 100 per cent certified organic beverage is an excellent option for customers looking for a sweet, refreshing drink as an alternative to regular soft drinks.

Seeing red R

ed velvet cakes are a popular dessert choice which can now be enjoyed by people with coeliac disease, thanks to the release of Melinda’s Gluten-free Goodies’ Red Velvet Cake premix.

The gluten-free red velvet cake is a butter cake with a light chocolate taste and bright red colour that makes for great presentation.

To complement the taste and presentation, cream cheese icing can be made following the recipe on the bag. It is an ideal dessert for functions or events and can be made into a slab cake or individual cupcakes.

The range was created by Dieter Leipold after he discovered a fermentation process that

and dairy-free making it suitable for a range of dietary requirements.

It can also be prepared using a combination steam option which results in a delicious, moist dessert. ● www.melindasgfg.com

Cooking with a conscience Environmentally-friendly cookware company GreenPan has recently released the Rotterdam collection, designed for professional chefs working in commercial kitchens.

The cake is gluten-free, wheat-free and can also be prepared egg-free

Peas that please Edible Gems Freshly Shelled Green Peas are a natural, nutritious product that can be used in salads, pastas and risottos. They have a sweet, crisp taste and smooth creamy texture that will have you swapping your usual frozen peas for fresh in no time.

The peas are a healthy option as they are high in antioxidants and are a good source of vitamin C and folate. They are versatile and easy to prepare; simply steam or boil then season to taste. They can also be pureed for dips and soups.

Edible Gems peas are grown and packed in Boga, Victoria, by owners Michael and Jina Tripodi.

They are grown and harvested in a sustainable manner, resulting in fresh, tasty peas that meet premium food safety standards and are kosher. ● www.ediblegems.com.au

Premium trout line Yarra Valley Caviar, known for their Atlantic salmon caviar and salmon, have recently launched a line of rainbow trout.

Like their salmon, the trout are reared naturally in the waters of the Rubicon River in Upper Goulburn in Victoria. They are given plenty of room to move and are grown without the addition of antibiotics and hormones.

20 Open House, December 2012/January 2013 www.openhousemagazine.net

Cool coffee cups Bevande is a vibrant range of porcelain cups and mugs for the foodservice industry, available in a range of shapes and styles to suit all hospitality needs.

The trout is extremely fresh, being processed and packaged on site and delivered just hours after being removed from the pond.

“The trout will be available year round and as well as whole baby trout, we’ll have whole smoked trout, which is smoked with a local mountain ash hardwood,” says national business development manager Nick Gorman. “We’re confident it’ll set the benchmark in quality trout products.” ● www.yarravalleysalmon.com.au

Versatile dried mushrooms

salad to risotto.

DuChef offers a wide variety of dried premium mushrooms including chanterelles, shiitake, porcini, forest mixed mushrooms and trompettes.

They are available to the foodservice industry in 1kg packs.

Customised wine app Reddo has launched its first app for the foodservice industry; Vinifi is a customisable wine app for diners that is designed to replace traditional wine lists in restaurants and bars.

Also available in the range are premium quality teapots which feature stainless steel infusers and drip free pouring. ● www.trenton.com.au

Stunning glassware The Food & Design collection

by Luigi Bormioli is a new line of glassware released by Crown Commercial. The glasses have a double walled feature that provides a unique and appealing way of presenting food.

Thermic or double walled glassware is trending in the foodservice industry and has many benefits. It has a vacuum area created by the double walls that allows food to be insulated, staying either hot or cold for longer. The double walling also prevents condensation on the outer wall of the glass.

DuChef’s dried premium mushrooms are a versatile new product, ideal for adding to any dish, which can be purchased, prepared and consumed any time of the year.

The mushrooms are freshly picked in-season then dried to capture their full fragrant flavour and packaged for convenience. They are economical, have a long shelf life and are highly versatile; add them to countless dishes from stir fries to

Add a touch of fun and colour to coffee shops and cafe tables with latte cups, espresso cups, saucers and creamers. Colours to choose from include Bianco, Rosso, Sage and Slate. Not only do they look stylish but they are very durable.

The easy-to-use app lets customers find and choose their favourite wine, spirits, beers, cocktails and champagnes. Customers can access detailed information about the wines they are selecting and products on offer, along with the additional service of food and wine matching selections.

The glasses allow for stunning presentation as the contents appear to be suspended. The collection comes in a variety of styles, suitable for the presentation of desserts, creams and appetisers.

Although the glassware is fine to

hold it is made from borosilicate glass, which means that they are less prone to breakage. They are sturdy, durable and chemical-resistant and heat-resistant. ● www.crowncommercial.com.au

Nestlé’s new packaging Nestlé Professional have released new packaging for the Maggi range of products called the “Smart Pail”. The Maggi Smart Pail has been adapted from the existing circular pail to address problems experienced by Nestlé Professional customers.

The new pail is a smooth rectangular shape that is 13 per cent smaller in size without any change to the pack weight. As well being more space efficient, it is easier to stack. A ring pull and clip features on the lid allow for easy opening and resealing.

Clear labelling on the front and sides makes the product easy to recognise, and for those who like to re-use the container, there is a writeable area on the back. It is made from 100 per cent recyclable plastic and is microwave- and dishwasher-safe. ● www.nestleprofessional.com OH

Shane Mitchell, chief executive of Reddo says, “In a busy venue, this can help to maximise the value of the drinks products on offer by focusing the customer’s attention on in-stock choices, upselling or diverting them to higher returning products, and optimising the relationship between food and drink.”

Vinifi is simple for restaurant managers and sommeliers to input and manager stock. For wait staff the app can be quickly reset for the next customer to use. It features customisable font styles and sizes for easy reading, categories for wines and a “favourites” cart. ● www.reddomedia.com www.openhousemagazine.net Open House, December 2012/January 2013 21

CULINARY CLIPPINGS

New beginnings D

ecember is my favourite month of the year, with everyone flat out getting ready to wind down.

It’s also a great time to consider the successes of the year and make new plans for next year. It has definitely been a tough year, in particular the consolidation of the Australian Culinary Federation’s (ACF) membership systems. Some members have missed communications and received incorrect details, and for this I apologise. However, it is a necessary part of our development as a united organisation, and as they say “no pain no gain”.

So what are we in for in 2013? It will be the year for rejuvenation, with our annual general meeting and board elections, both nationally and in New South Wales, the first task. We are also joining together the National Apprentice Competition with the Chef of the Year Competition. The apprentices

Wright – Open House, Grant Wylie – Pendleton Fine Foods, Lee Alsten – Krio Krush, Dan Richards – Humpty Doo Barramundi, Paul Moore – Web Master at ACF, Deb Foreman – ACF office manager, Kurt Von Buren – international judge, Debbie Thomson – Victorinox, Lindsay Yeomans – The Armory, Scott Wilson – Chef To Chef, Rajiv Gulshan – Custom Culinary, Minnie Constan – Fine Food Australia, Karl Fraser – Game Farm, continental director Glenn Austin and his team, and finally my family, Gill and the kids for putting up with it all.

will be selected from each state, while the Chef of the Year includes three categories, Restaurants, Pubs and Clubs, and Caterers/Institutions.

This will be a huge event held in Canberra, in October.

Fonterra’s Proud to be a Chef is on in February with Teague Ezard and Leigh Power creating master classes, while our international showcase is on in April at Fine Food in Perth.

New on the agenda in September is the Battle of the Chefs state versus state at Fine Food in Sydney. The Nestlé Golden Chef’s Hat 2012 proved to be a great success and entry nominations for 2013 will commence early in the year to select state and territory competitors.

To the sponsors and supporters of the ACF, thank you once again. A special thank you to all of the ACF committee and presidents and their respective committees, Sydney Tan – Fonterra Food Services,

PRESIDENT’S MESSAGE

Peter Wright Australian Culinary Federation (ACF)

Claire Tindale – Meat & Livestock Australia, Editha – Del Carmen, Nestlé Professional, Otto Meile – Moffat, Peter Crowe – Bidvest, Steven Popovic – Robot Coupe, Ylla

To all chefs, cooks and apprentices, Culinary Federation members, friends and colleagues – enjoy this time of year, try and take some time to have a meal with your family or best friends and more importantly stay safe. Thank you in anticipation for a great 2013!

Peter Wright National President Australian Culinary Federation peter@xtremechef.com.au www.austculinary.com.au

On the burners for 2013 This year has been rollercoaster ride for many in the hospitality sector, with a slew of high profile casualties hitting the headlines.

However, the overall picture was positive, with figures showing increased spending in the sector, albeit with a focus on value for money. But several trends that emerged over the last year are set to play out further in the coming 12 months, such as a continuing shortage of skilled workers, high wages, penalty rates, and consumers focused on getting more for less.

about what they thought the coming year might bring.

Q: What was the defining theme of 2012?

Neil: This year I don’t think there was a defining food moment. I think this year was about hanging onto your business! At the best of times we work in an industry that is dictated by our market,

and from what I hear and see the majority of the market has moved away from the top end restaurants to the middle tier. This sounds good for some, not so good for others… People are still eating out, putting bums on seats, however I see average spends down, creating more work for less return.

Ross: In Adelaide it was the

The Federal Government’s decision not to make any changes to the 457 visa program for the foodservice sector, low attrition rates for apprentices and increasing pressure to cut costs will continue challenge everyone in the foodservice sector.

Open House quizzed ACF members Neil Abrahams, executive chef at Royal Canberra Golf Club, Hospitality Training Network (HTN) consultant Tom Mcdonnell and SkyCity Adelaide executive chef Ross Hannah 22 Open House, December 2012/January 2013 www.openhousemagazine.net

movement away from finer style dining. Casual eateries are becoming prominent with a real focus on local seasonal foods. The overhead costs that are associated with finer style dining and the pressures of labour costs have almost made it a necessity to simplify a lot of restaurant operations. Businesses these days need to be more flexible

SA chapter welcomes new president Ross Hannah is the new president of the South Australian chapter of the ACF, having replaced Chris Codell in September. With 20 years industry experience in 5-star hotels and restaurants throughout Australia, New Zealand and Europe, Hannah is currently executive chef/food outlet manager of the Adelaide Casino.

Hailing from New Zealand, Hannah began his career at the Sheraton

and adaptable.

Q: Are wages too high in the hospitality sector?

Neil: I can wear two hats here. As an employee – high wages I don’t see it! Where? Who’s paying it? As a manager in a business that turns over only a few million – wages are too high, public holidays are too expensive to open, Sundays are a killer and I work harder in the quiet times as I cannot afford casual labour because I have sent everyone on leave.

Tom: I would like someone to do a graph of wage cost across all the trades. I think you might be surprised!

Q: What do you feel is the way forward to get more youngsters into the trade and keep them there?

Neil: Join an industry association like the Australian Culinary Federation and participate in culinary competitions and networking events. The more you participate, the more experience you will gain, the bigger your network will be and the more you have to bargain with.

Competing as a youngster means you see what’s trendy and can learn from industry peers.

Tom: The perception is that second year apprentice cooks should and can operate a kitchen, be responsible for ordering, receiving, costing, production and serving food to paying customers, but then you find out the owner has no background in the hospitality

Hotel in Auckland in 1992.

After holding positions across Australia and the UK, including the Gleneagles Hotel in Scotland and the Dorchester Hotel in London, over the following decade, he returned to New Zealand to complete a post graduate diploma in Business in 2003, before joining SkyCity Entertainment Group and eventually transferring to the Adelaide Casino.

industry and is looking at the lowest cost to run the business.

Ross: I think that there is a real squeeze on at the moment. Helping to demonstrate the long-term prospects and benefits within the industry needs to be a focal point. I do think that the newest generation gets a bit of a bad rap in terms of work ethic and so on. I don’t believe this is the case at all, there are some fantastic young chefs coming through the ranks. I see a lot of dedication, passion and desire to succeed out there. It’s all about nurturing this talent, and this is where the ACF can really assist.

Q: What food trends will emerge in 2013?

Neil: I believe the successful chef in 2013 will be the one that finds a balance between a simple dish with a prime cut and a worked secondary cut of meat, showing skill and technique on the plate while maintaining good food and labour costs.

Tom: Having recently had two lunches where the ingredients were not treated with respect, were cooked badly and served poorly, any good produce that is cooked well and served well.

Ross: Casual style dining is here to stay for the next 12 months at least. I’m not sure there will be an overarching food trend in terms of flavours that will prevail, but

Official organ for the Australian Culinary Federation; Association of Professional Chefs and Cooks of NSW; Professional Chefs and Cooks Association of Queensland Inc.; Academie Culinaire de France; College of Catering Studies and Hotel Administration, Ryde, NSW; Les Toques Blanches, NSW Branch; Australasian Guild of Professional Cooks Ltd. Subscriptions: 1 yr $99; 2 yrs $174; 3 yrs $261 (incl. GST and surface mail).

ISSN 0312-5998

Having taken on the role of president, Hannah says that he aims to develop the SA chapter further.

“I have been very fortunate in my career that I have been guided by very talented people and culinary competitions, and I wanted to give back to the industry,” he said. “I feel that South Australia has some very talented young chefs and that through the association we can help deliver their goals and aspirations.”

I do think that the restaurants that display honesty and integrity in terms of ingredients will always do well. Food offerings will be of a simpler nature with fewer items on the plate. Sous vide techniques will become less prominent and there will be more wood fired grills.

Localised styles will develop and the sourcing of ingredients directly from growers will continue to develop.

Q: What new recipes are you working on for 2013?

Neil: We work on new dishes all the time. In recent years we have brought all apprentice training in-house. This gives us a great opportunity to revisit a lot of the old classics, modernise them and put them on the menu. Nothing is more inspirational than picking up the Practical Professional Cookery Book or Larousse Gastronomique.

remembering the more you put in, the more you will get out.

Tom: Professionalism and respect for our trade, educating the customer and putting education, rather than self-promotion of management, back into the education system.

Ross: The industry is facing enormous pressures in a very difficult trading environment.

I would like to see some good governmental policy directed at assisting the industry, and promoting and supporting small businesses. I would also like to see a move away from some of the archaic penalty rate policies currently in place. OH

OPEN HOUSE FOODSERVICE is proud to be a diamond sponsor of the ACF.

Ross: We will be looking to source more local and native ingredients, and developing relationships directly with growers. I will be adopting a simpler style of menu and one that is more flexible to the seasonal and micro seasonal changes in produce, capturing the short season of things like persimmons, cherries and local almonds.

Q: One thing you want to see happen in 2013?

Neil: Apprentices competing in more culinary competitions, having an open mind and

PUBLISHER Alexandra Yeomans MANAGING EDITOR Ylla Wright Journalist Sheridan Randall Sales & Marketing Manager Jo Robinson Regional Account Manager Leah Jensen Account Manager Monica Osorio DESIGN/PRODUCTION Bin Zhou ADVERTISING CO-ORDINATION megan@creativehead.com.au

For information on ACF, visit www.austculinary.com.au, or contact the ACF National Office via acfnationaloffice@austculinary.com.au or (03) 9816 9859.

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Opinions expressed by the contributors in this magazineOpen are notHouse, the opinion of Open House www.openhousemagazine.net December 2012/January Letters to the editor are subject to editing.

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