World of Cruising August/September 2014

www.worldofcruising.co.uk

Digging a bigger ditch

August / September 2014

£4.50

Floating in Paradise Go wild around the world The power behind the throne in Pearl II’s kitchen

100 years of the Panama Canal – past, present and future

3 OF A KIND + CAPTAIN GREYBEARD + LIFE ON BOARD + WHERE NEXT? + WORLD OF SPAS

Uniworld’s magnificent fleet of boutique ships, each uniquely designed and furnished, plies the great waterways of Europe in peerless style. Appreciate Zagat-recommended fine cuisine and all riverview staterooms, a choice of shore excursions, outstanding amenities including Serenity River Spa centres, unlimited alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks (including many premium brands)‡* and, thanks to Uniworld’s exclusive partnership with Titan, door to door transfers wherever you live in the UK†.

Venice and the Gems of Northern Italy

Castles along the Rhine

Bordeaux, Vineyards and Châteaux

8 days from £2749 £1699^

8 days from £2629 £1629^

8 days from £2249 £1399^

Departs Apr-Nov 2015

Departs Mar-Nov 2015

Day 1 London - Venice Day 2 Venice Day 3 Venice - Chioggia (Padua) Taglio di Po - Polesella Day 4 Polesella (Bologna or Ferrara) Day 5 Polesella (Ravenna) - Taglio di Po (Po Delta area) - Chioggia Venice Day 6 Venice (Verona) Day 7 Venice Day 8 Venice - London

Day 1 Day 2 Day 3 Day 4 Day 5 Day 6 Day 7

London - Amsterdam Cologne Koblenz - The Rhine - Boppard The Rhine - Rüdesheim Germersheim (Speyer) Kehl (Strasbourg) Breisach (Kayserberg and Riquewihr or Colmar) Day 8 Basel - London Saving applies to 1 Apr 2015 departure

Departs Mar-Nov 2015 Day 1 London - Bordeaux Day 2 Garonne River & Gironde Estuary - Pauillac Day 3 Gironde Estuary - Blaye Day 4 Libourne (Bergerac) Day 5 Libourne (Saint-Émilion) Dordogne River Day 6 Cadillac - Bordeaux Day 7 Bordeaux Day 8 Bordeaux - London Saving applies to 15 Mar 2015 departure

Saving applies to 28 Jun 2015 departure

Sailing on River Countess

Sailing on River Empress

Sailing on River Royale

The ‘World’s Best River Cruises’ Outstanding all-inclusive value

REMEMBER NO-ONE INCLUDES MORE! Uniworld’s unparalleled range of inclusions as standard: • Door-to-door transfers from any UK mainland address at the start and end of your holiday† • Scheduled flights with reputable airlines

• All meals on board, including al fresco dining on deck, early-riser breakfast, all-day bistro menu, Captain’s Welcome and Farewell Dinners

• All transfers

• All entertainment plus enlightening lectures on board

• All airport and port taxes, security charges, UK Air Passenger Duty and applicable fuel surcharge

• Complimentary internet and Wi-Fi access on board

• All-inclusive* cruising on one-of-a-kind ships • All gratuities onboard and ashore worth up to £80pp* • Unlimited drinks onboard, including fine wine, beer, spirits, soft drinks, speciality coffee, tea, bottled water‡

• A choice of shore excursions in every major port of call, with English-speaking local guides • Complimentary portable audio headset system on all shore excursions • Complimentary use of bicycles and Nordic walking sticks

If you haven’t found your perfect itinerary in the selection opposite, call us today to request your special Uniworld 2015 brochure, which features a superlative range of deluxe European, Asian and Russian river cruises. Explore the ‘Imperial Waterways of Russia’, visiting Moscow and St Petersburg, discover ‘Lisbon and the Beautiful Douro River’, or sample the ‘Jewels of Spain, Portugal and the Douro River’ brand new for 2015!

Call free to book these special offers or request the latest brochure, quoting WC3 1EU

0808 102 0135 • titantravel.co.uk/uniworld T’s & C’s apply. Calls free from BT landlines, mobiles may vary. Prices shown are per person based on twin share, subject to availability, may be subject to change and will be confirmed upon enquiry. ^Book by 31 August 2014 Strike-throughs indicate anticipated full selling price after discounts expire. †Excludes Scottish islands and Sark. Flight supplements may be applicable *Only on European itineraries, excludes Russia, the Mekong and China. ‡Unlimited beverages exclude only the most premium wines, spirits and champagne. e.

Discover the premium all-inclusive, six-star ‘World’s Best River Cruises’ overleaf...

Douro | Rhine | Moselle | Danube | Rhône | Seine | Dutch Waterways | Garonne Dordogne | Gironde | Venice & the River Po | Volga | Mekong | Yangtze

EDITOR’S LETTER WORLD OF CRUISING

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OUR CONTRIBUTORS GARY BUCHANAN, our Contributing Editor, is one of cruising’s most distinguished writers, contributing regularly to national newspapers, and the author of three books on the QE2. He was the winner of the Best River Cruise Feature category in this year’s CLIA cruise journalism awards for his World of Cruising article on the Zambezi Queen.

JO FOLEY is a renowned author and journalist as well as our World of Spas editor, having previously edited Woman, Options, and The Observer magazine. She travels worldwide in search of the latest spa and beauty news and reports back on the most blissful hideaways to enjoy.

GREG BARBER likes to think of himself as an international man of mystery. He has Italian roots – some of which were once heavily tinted – and now spends most of his time jet-setting around the world, trying to shake off his paymasters and the taxman.

WELCOME to the latest issue of World of Cruising – still a little crazy after 15 years.

Regular readers will notice a new look, thanks to the talented Sabrina Godden, and with my hand on the wheel the magazine will be taking a slight change of course.

I hope that the ship enthusiasts and liner lovers will not be deterred by our attempts to appeal to the hundreds of thousands of families who now take their holidays at sea – and to the millions of people out there who have yet to discover what great value a cruise provides.

We hope we like what you see. Whether you appreciate what we are doing, or if you want us to change course, I would love to hear from you. Just drop a note to the email address below.

Best wishes,

John Honeywell john.honeywell@worldofcruisingmagazine.co.uk

LESLEY BELLEW got hooked on adventure cruising in 2008 and now travels the globe chasing stories and sunshine. An award-winning journalist with more than 30 years’ experience contributing to national, international and regional publications, she finds cruising the perfect way to indulge her passions for the arts, architecture, gardens, history and wildlife.

ADAM JACOT DE BOINOD was a researcher for the first BBC television series of QI, hosted by Stephen Fry, which led to an interest in foreign words. He wrote The Meaning of Tingo – which examines words that have no English equivalent - and The Wonder of Whiffing.

DANIELLE FEAR, known to her blog readers as CruiseMiss, covers cruise from a younger and often solo perspective. With a background in sales until joining the cruise industry, Danielle is now a recognised blogger, freelance writer and social media professional covering all aspects of sea travel. In a poll conducted

by USA Today she was one of only two British bloggers to figure in the Top 10.

STEVE NEWMAN is a keen champion of adventure and expedition eco-cruising and is the Digital Content Editor for the magazine where he helps run both of the magazine’s blogs and assists with the Facebook page and websites. A former schoolteacher who gave it all up to become a travel writer and photographer he also provides illustrated features to a variety of newspapers and magazines.

ANTHONY NICHOLAS took his first cruise in 1981 and has written for The Scotsman, Independent, and The Sun, as well as a number of magazines. Based in the north-east of England, he also writes about hotels, rail journeys, and maritime history. His voyages have taken in everything from ultra-luxury boutique vessels to the most modern mega-ships.

SUSAN PARKER has been writing about cruise shipping for 20 years, for much of that time as editor of the highly-respected Lloyd’s Cruise International.

She has travelled extensively to destinations around the world and visited many of today’s latest ships both on the water and while they were under construction.

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CONTENTS

World of Cruising is proud to be a member of CLIA

WORLD OF CRUISING

Contents www.worldofcruising.co.uk

August / September 2014

£4.50

p6 Digging a bigger ditch

BEING THERE

Floating in Paradise Go wild around the world The power behind the throne in Pearl II’s kitchen

100 years of the Panama Canal – past, present and future

3 OF A KIND + CAPTAIN GREYBEARD + LIFE ON BOARD + WHERE NEXT? + WORLD OF SPAS

COVER Celebrity Infinity in the Panama Canal www.worldofcruising.co.uk August/September 2014 ISSUE 64 ABC application approved January 2014 EDITOR John Honeywell WORLD OF SPAS EDITOR Jo Foley CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Gary Buchanan CONTRIBUTORS Lesley Bellew, Danielle Fear, Adam Jacot de Boinod, Steve Newman, Anthony Nicholas, Susan Parker.

NEWS 1 Welcome aboard The Editor’s view from the bridge

COLUMNISTS Captain Greybeard, Andy Harmer, Edwina Lonsdale, Silver Travel Advisor

8 Ocean cruise news

10 Adventure and destination news 11 River cruise and destination news

CREATIVE DIRECTION Sabrina Godden, asg designs ltd DESIGN AND ARTWORK asg designs ltd SALES DIRECTOR Chris Cummings Tel. +44 (0) 3330 118803 CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING Geraldine Ward Tel. +44 (0) 1273 564941 MANAGING DIRECTOR Chris Pitchford Tel. +44 (0) 1273 696 860 FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS Tel. +44 (0) 208444 6045 info@worldofcruisingmagazine.com PUBLISHED BY Real Response Media 11 Chichester Terrace Brighton BN2 1FG 6th Floor, 111 Cannon Street London EC4N 5AR Reproduction not permitted without the express written consent of The Editor.

All efforts are made to ensure factual accuracy is correct at the time of publication.

World of Cruising magazine © 2014

REGULARS 6 Being There

The jewel that is St Petersburg

26 Edwina Lonsdale

looks to the East

34 Three of a Kind

Off the beaten track in the Baltic

37 Life on Board with cruise director Kieron Buffery

54 Top 10 Guide

to the best shopping in the Med

66 Cruise Talk Letters, Social media, and Silver Travel Advisor

68 Where Next?

Magnificent Mazatlan returns to favour

75 CLIA View

Andy Harmer’s favourite things

76 Captain Greybeard Cruising on TV, and Saga’s future plans

78 Classifieds Our brand new classified ad section

CONTENTS

WORLD OF CRUISING

LUXURY CRUISING

p29

SPA FOCUS

p73

WORLD OF SPAS

FEATURES

72 News and sweet dreams from Spas editor Jo Foley

16 Cover story 100 years of the Panama Canal

73 Spa Focus

22 Panama revisited

with families in mind

Past, present and future

74 Beauty file

29 Luxury cruising

The best new products and offers

Floating in Paradise

42 River cruising Crowning glory of the Rhine

48 Adventure cruising around the world

52 New ship review Silversea’s Silver Discoverer

59 Cruise cuisine with executive chef George Streeter

64 Family cruising What’s in store for MSC

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ADVENTURE CRUISING

p48

PROMOTIONS 12 River cruising on Fred Olsen’s Braemar

56 P&O

Food Heroes

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BEING THERE

WORLD OF CRUISING

St Petersburg A sparkling gem among the world’s leading cruise destinations, St Petersburg is a treasure-trove of Baroque and Rococo palaces. The most stunning are the Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood (above) and the incomparable State Hermitage Museum, housing one of the largest art collections in the world. Its rich green and white façade is a focal point along the banks of the River Neva. The glistening cupola of St Isaac’s Cathedral, the colourful domes of the Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood (above) and the gilded spire of the Peter and Paul Cathedral are prominent symbols of this most enigmatic city, founded in 1703 by Tsar Peter the Great and named in honour of St Peter. Outside the city the Peterhof summer palace, with its elaborate fountains, is often referred to as Russia’s Versailles, and the ornate Catherine Palace at Tsarskoye Selo houses a modern replica of the famed Amber Room whose original disappeared during the Second World War. Newest of St Petersburg’s museums is devoted to the jeweller Carl Fabergé and particularly the eggs he created for the Russian royal family.

BEING THERE

WORLD OF CRUISING

WHO GOES THERE Almost every cruise line has Baltic itineraries that include St Petersburg, many with overnight stays. All will be hoping against hope that the increased east-west tension after events in Ukraine does not lead to economic sanctions against Russia and an embargo on travel.

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OCEAN CRUISE NEWS WORLD OF CRUISING

WITH CUTAWAY OF QUANTUM OF THE SEAS

MAMMA MIA! Can cruise shows get even more spectacular?

Royal Caribbean – always at the forefront when it comes to innovation – is promising to take cruise ship entertainment to a new level on its latest ships, Quantum of the Seas and Anthem of the Seas.

Quantum – making a brief visit to the UK when it spends a couple of nights in Southampton at the end of October, en route to New York – follows Royal’s tradition of showcasing blockbuster West End productions by premiering Mamma Mia! in its 1,300-seat theatre.

The real excitement, however, comes in its Two70° venue where digital shows will be projected onto 100-ft wide windows and six Robo-Screens – each more than seven ft high, will swoop and swirl in unison. “The entertainment in

Two70° is simply magical,” said Nick Weir, Vice President, Entertainment, Royal Caribbean International.

“There is an incredible team of risk takers and dreamers here at Royal Caribbean. We’ve always brought the best of land to sea, but in Two70° we are creating something that has never been done anywhere else in the world.”

World of Cruising Editor JOHN HONEYWELL will be taking a sneak peek at what Quantum has to offer before the vessel leaves the German shipyard where she is being built.

He will also be inspecting sister ship Anthem of the Seas, which will be sailing out of Southampton from next spring.

Look out for his report in the next issue of World Of Cruising

OCEAN CRUISE NEWS WORLD OF CRUISING

Red faces over Royal Sisters become triplets white worktops Princess Cruises will add a third Royal-class vessel to its fleet in 2017. The` 143,000-ton ship joins Royal Princess – named in Southampton last year by the Duchess of Cambridge - and Regal Princess which began sailing in the Mediterranean in June and will be christened in Fort Lauderdale in November.

Like its sisters and the similarly-designed P&O Britannia, the ship, designed to carry 3,560 passengers at double-occupancy, will be built by Fincantieri in Italy at a cost of €600 million.

HELLO WORLD P&O Cruises has brought in Rob Cottam, from Leith’s School of Food and Wine, and the Ashburton Cookery School in Devon, to oversee The Cookery Club on board Britannia.

TV chef James Martin is the man with his name over the door – and he will be on board at least once a month – but Rob is the man who will take charge for the rest of the year.

When World of Cruising flew out with him to see the part-completed vessel at a shipyard in north-east Italy, he was shame-facedly carrying a pasta making machine with him to make sure it would fit on the worktop. It did but there was one disappointment for him. Martin vetoed his plans to introduce a beetroot dish into the passenger lessons because he does not want his pristine white work surfaces to end up looking like pink marble.

Got six months – and the best part of £50,000 – to spare? Then take your loved one on a 180-day round the world cruise on Oceania Insignia. This really is the voyage of a lifetime!

Setting out from Miami on January 4, 2016, Insignia will visit 57 UNESCO World Heritage sites in 45 countries. Fares from £23,819 per person. Book by October 31 this year to qualify for free gratuities – worth up to $8,300 – and other perks. www.oceaniacruises.com

See Food Heroes – Page 56

Promising start There were some who questioned the wisdom of Fred. Olsen Cruise Line’s “Enjoyment Promise” which guaranteed to refund the fare and fly first-time passengers home if they decided within the first 48 hours that they were not enjoying themselves.

But the cruise line is having the last laugh. Since introducing the scheme at the beginning of the year, and welcoming close to 30,000 passengers on board, they have not had to pay out a single penny.

IN THE NEXT ISSUE: Crystal cuisine, cruising with Carnival from New York, more news of the new ships arriving in the UK next year, an the launch of an intriguing contest for writers who have never travelled on a cruise

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CRUISE NEWS

WORLD OF CRUISING

ADVENTURE CRUISE NEWS

FURTHER EVOLUTION FOR SILVER GALÁPAGOS The all-suite luxury expedition ship Silver Galápagos is undergoing a month-long dry dock in Panama during which all its accommodation is being upgraded and refurbished.

The 100-passenger vessel, which was spruced up when Silversea acquired it last year, will get a new spa and fitness centre, outdoor Jacuzzi, and signature outdoor dining venue, The Grill.

Silver Galápagos sails on seven-day voyages through the Galápagos Islands, following either a western or north central route. Included expeditions ashore are guided by an experienced expedition team (certified by the Galápagos National Park Service), Silversea’s guests experience encounters with an abundance of wildlife that includes sun-basking land iguanas, giant tortoises, blue- and red-footed boobies, colourful marine iguanas, sea lions, penguins and Darwin’s famous finches.

DESTINATION NEWS

DESTINATION NEWS

Victoria turns heads on ‘The Cote d’Azur’

Tallinn expansion The port of Tallinn can accommodate bigger cruise ships following the completion of a new €9.34 million quay. Its inauguration earlier this year was marked by the arrival of the 1,083-ft long Royal Princess – the biggest ship to visit the Estonian port.

See 3 of a Kind, Pages 34-35

Toll change

Heads turned when Cunard’s Queen Victoria made the cruise line’s maiden call at St Raphael on the Cote d’Azur this summer.

The ship, and her 2,000 passengers, were almost a week into their 14-night voyage from Southampton and had already called at Cartagena and Barcelona in Spain before arriving in St Raphael’s Bay, 30 miles west of Nice. After spending the day at anchor, Queen Victoria sailed on towards Florence. Captain Peter Philpott, master of the 90,000 ton vessel, said: “It’s a privilege to bring Queen Victoria into a

new port for the first time, and to be in command of the first Cunard ship ever to sail into St Raphael makes the call particularly special.

The Cote d’Azur is one of the most beautiful and most celebrated coastlines in the Mediterranean – almost synonymous with summer holidays. I hope this maiden visit proves to have been a joy for our passengers - it feels like we are the biggest yacht in this delightful bay.”

Passengers travelling round the eastern M25 to join a cruise at Dover should be aware that the system of toll payments for the Dartford Crossing will change in October.

Instead of payment at the barriers, a Dart Charge is to be introduced, payable in advance or by phone, online and at some shops.

New resort Carnival Corporation plans to invest $70 million to develop a private resort on Tortuga, a small island off the north coast of Haiti. The company already operates Half Moon Cay in the Bahamas, Grand Turk in Turks and Caicos, Mahogany Bay near Roatan, and Puerto Maya in Cozumel, Mexico. It is also spending £65 million developing Amber Cove, in the Dominican Republic, which will open next year.

CRUISE NEWS

WORLD OF CRUISING

OFF LIMITS More ports for ships to avoid The violent conflict between Israel and the Palestinian territory of the Gaza strip led a number of cruises to cancel calls in the region. An AIDA ship was struck by shrapnel as it was leaving Ashdod, the port usually used for excursions to Jerusalem.

Costa Crociere cancelled all its port calls at Ashdod and Haifa scheduled for the remainder of 2014. Haifa visits for Regent’s Seven Seas Mariner’s and Oceania Riviera were replaced with visits to Mykonos,

Greece, and ports in Turkey. Most cruise operators have yet to return to the Red Sea ports following disturbances in Egypt, and Black Sea itineraries have been re-jigged to avoid the Ukrainian port of Odessa, and Sevastopol and Yalta in the Crimean peninsula.The lines will be hoping that the West does not impose sanctions against Russia which would affect cruises to St Petersburg and effectively kill off the Baltic cruise business.

Cruises with West African ports of call on their itineraries will also be under scrutiny in light of the outbreak of deadly Ebola virus.

HAL’s Rotterdam, Seabourn Sojourn and Saga Pearl II are all scheduled to visit Senegal and the Gambia in November, and Seven Seas Mariner will be there in October. If deaths continue to rise, the cruise lines will have to find alternatives, or risk passengers voting with their feet and going elsewhere.

RIVER NEWS

NEW ON THE RIVER FOR 2015 Booze cruise adds cheese

Uniworld plans to introduce the 155-passenger SS Maria Theresa next spring. A sister to the opulent SS Catherine, which was launched this year

by Catherine Deneuve, the Maria Theresa will sail on the Rhine, Main and Danube rivers. In addition to its main lounge it will have an ornate Bar du Leopard lounge, a heated swimming pool and a cinema. The Royal Suite measures an impressive 410 sq ft and there will be 10 other suites, 61 staterooms at 194 sq ft and a further 11 smaller cabins of 162 sq ft.

Another flotilla of Viking Longboats will be launched in 2015, extending the company’s domination of European waterways. Also new will be the 164-passenger AmaSerena and AmaVista on the Danube, Rhine and Main, and the 124-passenger AmaDara which will join AmaLotus on the Mekong, passing through Vietnam and Cambodia.

Viking sponsors Thames art Viking River Cruises is sponsoring Rivers of the World, an international education programme created by the Thames Festival Trust. Professional artists will help students create works of art that will be displayed on London’s South Bank during the Mayor’s Thames Festival.

It’s not Oktoberfest, but...

AmaWaterways has a beer-themed week coming up on AmaLyra. The seven-night Tulip Time cruise from Amsterdam at the end of March will involve tastings at historic breweries and lectures about foaming pints while on board. There are also chances to taste Dutch cheese and Belgian chocolate, and a visit to the Dutch bulbfields and Keukenhof Gardens. Something for everybody.

WW1 remembered

by CroisiEurope River cruises themed around World War One continue next year.

CroisiEurope’s ship Victor Hugo will be operating battlefield cruises between Ostend and Lille in September, with excursions to Passchendaele and Flanders museums, the Allied tunnels at Arras, and the British cemetery at Tyne Cot.

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EDITORIAL PROMOTION

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Sail scenic routes and see the sights with Fred.

If you are looking for an intimate and immersive holiday, then booking a river cruise with Fred. Olsen Cruise Lines is the perfect opportunity for a scenic adventure that will leave you with memories to last a lifetime.

Ocean cruises offer a fantastic experience, but sometimes something a little less grandiose in scale may be just what you need. Smaller cruise ships mean that you can explore off-the-beaten-track areas, resulting in a relaxed and tranquil exploration of exotic waterways and lesser-known ports.

This is why award-winning Fred. Olsen is offering more and more river cruise itineraries aboard its shallow-drafted cruise ship, Braemar. Carrying just 929 guests, this more intimate ship is ideal for taking a scenic cruise along the spectacular Seine to Rouen, or gliding up the picturesque Guadalquivir River towards Seville. All in the style and comfort of one of Fred.

Olsen’s most popular ships, renowned for its friendly, ‘home-from-home’ atmosphere and very British ambience on board - as with all the Fred. Olsen fleet.

Nathan Philpot, Sales and Marketing Director for Fred.

Olsen Cruise Lines, has welcomed the growth of river cruising in recent years, and has been keen to bring this innovation to the cruise line. “For many, a river cruise is an attractive alternative to a traditional ocean voyage;

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EDITORIAL PROMOTION

we know from our hugely successful ‘French & Flanders River Cruise’ in 2014 that our guests want us to do more and more of this special type of scenic cruising.

“Braemar can get right into the heart of river cruise destinations, and the fact that we are offering an increasing number of overnight stays in cities along the way means that we can give guests the very best experience, with time to explore and take in the wonderful historical sights.” Sailing from 10 convenient regional UK ports – Southampton, Dover, Harwich, Tilbury, Avonmouth (Bristol), Liverpool, Newcastle, Greenock (Glasgow), Rosyth (Edinburgh) and Belfast – Fred. Olsen gives guests the choice of every kind of holiday experience; from cultural city breaks and scenic river cruises, to picturesque beaches and wildlife adventures.

In its 2015/16 programme, Fred. Olsen is including more scenic cruising than ever before. Unlike larger cruise lines, which choose to return to the sea in between port calls, Fred. Olsen’s ships can cruise coastal routes, for example, between the islands and mainland of Norway, to give more scenic and sheltered sailings. These scenic routes, many of which are restricted to only the smaller ships, are as important as the ports of call themselves,

as they showcase the true beauty and magnificence of the destination. Why not take a breath-taking journey through the Stockholm archipelago, passing by tiny islands and mysterious outcrops – as well as the holiday home of Abba star Björn Ulvaeus – or marvel at the amazing, unique landscapes in Fred. Olsen’s historic homeland, Norway, sailing past ‘the mountain with the hole’, ‘Torghatten’, and getting up close to Norway’s best waterfall, Langfoss?

Fred. Olsen is dedicated to taking guests right ‘to the heart of the destination’ and, in 2015, for the first time ever, will be offering two 14-night cruises ‘Bringing the Baltic Closer To You’ on board Braemar. Both of these special itineraries have been planned to take advantage of Braemar’s shallow draft, enabling her to dock within walking distance of Scandinavia’s most famous landmarks.

To find out more about Fred. Olsen Cruise Lines’ exciting 2015/16 cruise programme across its fleet of four ships - ‘Balmoral’, ‘Braemar’, ‘Boudicca’ and ‘Black Watch’ - visit the website at www.fredolsencruises.com, call the Reservations team free on 0800 0355 242, or visit an ABTA travel agent.

Braemer in the Norwegian fjords

Braemar sets out from Dover on March 24, 2015, for a relaxing 11-night French River Cruising voyage. First port of call is La Pallice, from where guests can take tours of La Rochelle’s arcaded streets, ancient wooden houses and stately mansions. The ship will continue into the Gironde estuary for a two-night stay in Bordeaux, the UNESCO-listed Pearl of Aquitaine, entering the city under the magnificent new Chaban-Dalmas lifting bridge. There’s another overnight stay in Nantes before Braemar enters the Seine and journeys upriver to Rouen, where Joan of Arc was burnt at the stake and French Impressionist Claude Monet captured a series of paintings of the cathedral’s west front in the late 19th Century. Prices for the cruise start at £999 per person, based on two adults sharing an inside twin-bedded cabin, including accommodation, all meals and entertainment on board, plus port taxes.

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COVER STORY

WORLD OF CRUISING

Digging a bigger ditch As the Panama Canal celebrates its centenary, work on expansion nears completion and a rival looms closer. GARY BUCHANAN chronicles the history of one of mankind’s most impressive achievements

COVER STORY

WORLD OF CRUISING

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COVER STORY

WORLD OF CRUISING

Previous page: P&O Cruises Aurora sails under the Centennial Millennium Bridge which spans the Gaillard Cut, the narrowest part of the Panama Canal.

Left: Celebrity Infinity passes underneath the Bridge of the Americas en route to the Pacific Ocean, Panama City is in the background.

T

he creation of the Panama Canal one hundred years ago was far more than an unprecedented feat of engineering; it was a profoundly important historic event. It represented the largest, most costly single undertaking ever before mounted anywhere on earth, and it held the world’s attention over a span of forty years.

Costing $387 million, it was an engineering miracle that changed the world by dividing a continent.

The importance of the Isthmus of Panama was sealed in 1513 when Vasco de Núñez de Balboa led a straggle of Spanish colonists through the jungle from the Atlantic to the Pacific. Their route was followed in 1671 when the Welsh pirate Henry Morgan and a band of two thousand brigands hacked their way through endless rainforest to the city of Panama which they promptly burned to the ground. At the end of the 17th century, the Scots tried to establish a foothold in this region of Central America with

the ill-fated Darien Scheme. All that remains of their efforts is the small island of Caledonia and the overgrown settlement of New Edinburgh. Almost two centuries later, French engineers led by Ferdinand de Lesseps - fresh from his triumph at Suez - believed, rashly, that he could link the Atlantic and Pacific with a sea-level canal which became known as ‘Le Grand Projet’. Of the many problems they faced throughout the 1880s, the worst was malaria which claimed 26,000 lives.

The last great enterprise of the Victorian era was such a resounding failure that the term Panamiste became one of abuse in France.

France’s folly became America’s dream. Within a few years the first grandiose show of American power and industrial might at the dawn of the new century was unleashed in this narrow isthmus that umbilically links the vast North American continent with its southern counterpart. By helping the Province of Panama gain independence from

Colombia, Theodore Roosevelt acquired a licence to build, operate and police a canal, as well as the land on either side of it. With malaria eradicated in the steamy jungle that borders the canal, 40,000 men – Chinese, Indian, and African indentured labourers - were engaged in the construction.

Over 200 million cubic yards of material were removed, almost half of which came from the Gaillard Cut alone, as solid rock and shale was blasted by nineteen million pounds of dynamite. Years of death, toil and engineering tenacity finally paid off. Seizing the strategic potential, American expansionism took off in earnest.

The first transit of the Canal was on 15th August 1914 by the SS Ancon, and in a stroke the arduous 8,000 mile voyage around Cape Horn that could take up to several weeks, or even months, was reduced to a mere eight or nine hours.

Free Airfare with Reduced Business Class Air Upgrade on select voyages* Extraordinary Bonus Savings up to £8,280 per stateroom* Free Gratuities on every voyage* and Bonus Amenities on select voyages*

BLACK SEA LEGENDS ISTANBUL

TO

ATHENS

| 10-DAY VOYAGE

22 September 2014 onboard RIVIERA

Istanbul, Turkey | Nessebur, Bulgaria | Constanta, Romania Sochi, Russia | Trabzon, Turkey | Sinop, Turkey Ephesus (Kusadasi, Turkey) | Athens (Pireaus), Greece

Penthouse Suite from £2,429 per guest fly-cruise* Veranda Stateroom from £2,019 per guest fly-cruise*

MEDITERRANEAN MONTAGE BARCELONA

TO

ISTANBUL

| 10-DAY VOYAGE

12 October 2014 onboard RIVIERA

Barcelona, Spain | Provence (Marseille), France | Monte Carlo, Monaco Florence/Pisa/Tuscany (Livorno), Italy | Rome (Civitavecchia), Italy Sorrento/Capri, Italy | Taormina (Sicily), Italy | Zakynthos, Greece Santorini, Greece | Kavala/Philippi, Greece | Istanbul, Turkey

PLUS Free Internet Package* & Free Prestige Select Beverage Package*

Penthouse Suite from £3,089 per guest fly-cruise* Veranda Stateroom from £2,449 per guest fly-cruise*

MEDITERRANEAN SHORES

CAREFREE CARIBBEAN

MONTE CARLO

TO

BARCELONA

| 7-DAY VOYAGE

8 November 2014 onboard RIVIERA

Monte Carlo, Monaco | Portofino | Rome (Civitavecchia), Italy Florence/Pisa/Tuscany (Livorno), Italy | Provence (Marseilles) France Port Vendres, France | Palma de Mallorca, Spain | Barcelona, Spain

Penthouse Suite from £1,599 per guest fly-cruise* Veranda Stateroom from £1,309 per guest fly-cruise*

EMPERORS & EMPIRES BEIJING

TO

TOKYO

| 16-DAY VOYAGE

10 March 2015 onboard NAUTICA

Beijing (Tianjin), China | Dalian, China | Seoul (Incheon), South Korea Shanghai, China | Ishigaki (Sakishima Islands), Japan Okinawa (Naha), Japan | Kyoto (Kobe), Japan | Nagoya, Japan | Tokyo, Japan

Penthouse Suite from £4,389 per guest fly-cruise* Veranda Stateroom from £3,729 per guest fly-cruise* Overnight stay in port.

Two overnight stays in port.

MIAMI

TO

MIAMI

| 10-DAY VOYAGE

14 January 2015 onboard RIVIERA

Miami, Florida | Grand Turk, Turks & Caicos Islands | San Juan, Puerto Rico Tortola, British Virgin Islands | Philipsburg, St. Maarten Gustavia, St. Barts | Cayo Levantado, Dominican Republic Great Stirrup Cay, Bahamas | Miami, Florida

Penthouse Suite from £2,639 per guest fly-cruise* Veranda Stateroom from £2,229 per guest fly-cruise*

ALASK AN GRANDEUR SAN FRANCISCO

TO

VANCOUVER

| 10-DAY VOYAGE

9 May 2015 onboard REGATTA

San Francisco, California | Astoria, Oregon | Cruising the Outside Passage Sitka, Alaska | Cruising Hubbard Glacier | Juneau, Alaska | Ketchikan, Alaska Cruising the Inside Passage | Victoria, British Columbia | Vancouver, British Columbia

Penthouse Suite from £3,049 per guest fly-cruise* Veranda Stateroom from £2,639 per guest fly-cruise*

Pre-cruise overnight hotel stay required (not included). Dates and durations refer to Cruise Departure Date and duration.

CALL OCEANIA CRUISES 0845 505 1920 OR VISIT OCEANIACRUISES.COM *Offers expire 30th September 2014. All advertised fares, offers and any applicable upgrades shown are per person based on double occupancy unless otherwise indicated, are subject to availability at time of booking, may not be combinable with other offers, or loyalty programme benefits, are capacity controlled and may be withdrawn without prior notice or remain in effect after the expiration date. The following restrictions apply to amenities that may or may not be applicable to this advertisement – shipboard credits are per stateroom based on double occupancy; internet packages are one per stateroom; beverage packages are one per full-fare paying adult of 21 years of age or older with a maximum of two per stateroom; upgrades are from category to the next unless otherwise noted; upgrades to suite categories are not permitted; free gratuities are not applicable to bar, spa, salon or boutique purchase. All fares listed are in Pounds Sterling, per person, based on double occupancy and include Non-Commissionable Fares. Cruise-related government fees and taxes are included. Single rates and rates for 3rd and 4th guests are available upon request; call for details. Cruise Ship Fuel Surcharge may apply for new bookings and, if applicable, is additional revenue to Oceania Cruises. International Intro Fares and Special Fares are based on published International Full Brochure Fares. International Full Brochure Fares may not have resulted in actual sales in all cabin categories, may not have been in effect during the last 90 days and do not include Personal Charges and Optional Facilities and Services Fees as defined in the Terms and Conditions of the Guest Ticket Contract which may be viewed at OceaniaCruises.com.

International Full Brochure Fares are cruise only. “Free Airfare” promotion does not include ground transfers and applies to economy, round-trip flights only from London, or one way flights where cruise originates or ends in the UK. Regional connecting flights can be requested at additional cost from ABZ, BFS, BHX, EDI, GLA, LBA, MAN & NCL. Any advertised fares that include the “Free Airfare” promotion include airline fees, surcharges and all government taxes. Reduced Round-Trip Business Class supplements are quoted per person, based on availability. Some airline-imposed personal charges, including but not limited to baggage, priority boarding and special seating, may apply. Oceania Cruises reserves the right to correct errors or omissions and to change any and all fares, fees and surcharges at any time. Additional Terms and Conditions may apply. Complete Terms and Conditions may be found at OceaniaCruises.com or in the Guest Ticket Contract. PRO40581 UK

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The multi-lock waterway of the Panama Canal runs for 51.2 miles north-west to south-east across the mountainous terrain of the isthmus and joins the world’s two greatest oceans. Paradoxically, due to the diagonal construction of the canal, ships travel from west to east navigating from the Atlantic to the Pacific. It is also the only occasion when the Captain of a ship temporarily defers command of his vessel in favour of the senior canal pilot.

There are currently three sets of locks, each lock chamber measuring approximately 1,000 feet in length; 110 feet in width and 41 feet in depth, and are some of the world’s largest poured concrete structures.

The 65-feet wide lock gates are seven feet thick and are so finely balanced that, despite their enormous weight, can be moved by a 40 horsepower motor.

Each lock chamber holds 65.8 million gallons of water, and every

time a ship makes a complete transit of the canal some 52 million gallons of fresh water are spilled into the sea. It is estimated that the amount of water consumed in the operation of the canal in one day would keep the city of Birmingham supplied for two weeks.

No pumps are used in filling the lock chambers; the principle involved is no more complicated than gravity.

With the Gatún Lake being the highest point of the Canal at 85 feet above sea level, the water flows from one level to another through 18ft culverts located at the centre and side walls of the locks.

There are 40 pairs of lock gates in the Canal. These are located at each end of the chambers and vary in height from 47 to 82 feet. The tallest and heaviest gates are on the Pacific side at the south-east entrance to the Miraflores Locks and were designed to handle that ocean’s extreme tidal fluctuations.

At the Gatún Locks on the Caribbean side, vessels are lifted in three stages to the Gatún Lake. Specially-trained Canal Pilots communicate continuously with a control centre as well as to linesmen and the drivers of electric locomotives, known as ‘mules’ which, working in pairs, run on tracks on both sides of the locks, preventing ships colliding with the lock walls.

Once the Gatún Lake has been traversed, vessels enter the 7.8 mile Gaillard Cut - the narrowest stretch of the entire canal - which bisects the Continental Divide. At the Pedro Miguel Lock vessels are lowered 31 feet to the Miraflores Lake. This is followed by the Miraflores Locks where the two chambers lower ships 54 feet down to the Pacific Ocean - which can often be up to two feet higher than the sea level of the Atlantic.

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During transits an ‘Admeasure’ boards each ship to define its Panama Canal tonnage, and from that the toll for each transit is determined. Back in 1928 Richard Halliburton paid just 36 cents in tolls when he swam the entire canal in ten days; tolls now generate many million dollars each day. The largest cruise ships (known as Panamax - up to 965ft long and 106ft wide) pay in excess of $450,000 per transit.

At midday on 31 December 1999, as required by the Panama Canal Treaty, the United States transferred ownership and operational control of the Canal to the people of the Republic of Panama. One of the first acts of the new Panama Canal Authority was to comply with the recommendations of the most influential people in world shipping and forge ahead with plans for an historic expansion of the canal by means of a third set of locks.

Approved by a national referendum in 2006, this $5.25 billion project is scheduled for completion next year.

There will be two new sets of locks – eight at the Atlantic entrance to the waterway alongside the Gatún Locks and eight at the Pacific inlet adjacent to the Miraflores Locks.

These will not replace but augment the existing locks. This new single-lane of locks will be 65 per cent larger than the current chambers and will double the canal’s capacity by allowing for the transit of larger and wider vessels up to 1,200 feet long, with a 160 foot beam and a 50 foot draft.

Currently an army of workers are toiling around the clock pouring tens of thousands of cubic feet of concrete into the three-step lock chambers and the most powerful dredging equipment in the world is deepening the waterway’s entrances. Huge excavators are creating nearly five miles of access channels that will join the new locks with existing shipping lanes.

Instead of hinged mitre gates the new set of triple locks will use paired rolling gates, weighing an average of 3,100 tons each, which will roll out from wall recesses on tracks to seal the chambers. The design of the new locks incorporates environmentally-friendly recycling basins that will reduce the amount of water required for each transit by seven per cent.

Clockwise from left: Misty sunrise in the Panama mountains; Coral Princess enters the Pedro Miguel Lock at the Pacific Ocean end of the Panama Canal which raises the vessel 31 feet to the Miraflores Lake.; Scarlet Macaw in the Panama jungle.

Once the new locks are operational the only limiting factor to the world’s largest cruise ships such as Cunard’s Queen Mary 2, will be the Bridge of the Americas - the arched structure which crosses the Panama Canal. This integral part of the Pan-American Highway has a clearance of 201 feet. Such a restriction can only be overcome if the resourceful Panamanians raise their strategic road link between North and South America.

Perhaps the story of the ‘Big Ditch’ has another chapter waiting to unfold.

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To Infinity and beyond the jungle

On the preceding pages, Gary Buchanan has vividly documented the history of the Panama Canal. What’s it like to make the transit by cruise ship today? We sent GREG BARBER to find out whether the journey merits its place on countless travellers’ bucket lists

If you’re going to undertake a memorable transit of the Panama Canal, you might as well do it on board one of the biggest ships that can squeeze through its six locks. At 90,228 gross tons and measuring 964.5 ft long and 105.6 ft wide, Celebrity Infinity fills that bill – for now at least; all will change when the new Canal locks open, but that’s another story.

The westbound cruise that I joined left from Miami, Florida and ended at San Diego, California – although I jumped ship to fly home from Puntarenas in Costa Rica. Together with two bus-loads of passengers I got my first look at the Canal from on land, thanks to an excursion that took us to the new and old Gatun locks.

A swanky visitor centre has opened months before the expanded waterway is ready to accommodate its first ships.

There’s an air-conditioned cinema showing an informative film, a reasonably-priced souvenir shop, and an extensive bar and

restaurant. The real attractions are the viewing areas; from one we saw Holland America Lines’ Zuiderdam at anchor in Gatun Lake. The ship was not making a full transit of the canal; it had entered from Colon earlier in the morning and its passengers were being tendered ashore for excursions. They would rejoin the ship back in port later in the day.

At a terraced observation platform we looked down on at the massive construction site where the locks are being built and the new stretch of canal is being dug. Then it was on to the existing Gatun locks where we waited until Zuiderdam inched its way into the uppermost chamber on its way back to the Caribbean Sea and moving only slightly faster than the sloth we later saw in the trees on our own return journey.

It was a steamy, misty dawn next morning as the Infinity left the port of Colon and approached the canal entrance from Limon Bay. Three Panama pilots came on board to supervise the navigation

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against the concrete walls.

A crowd of spectators taking their own turn to watch were treated to a levitation trick worthy of any David Blaine illusion; 22 million gallons of water flooded into the lock in less than 10 minutes without the need for pumps or any mechanical aid, lifting Infinity and a container ship in the second channel alongside, as if by magic. After taking more than an hour to be raised through the locks, we emerged into Gatun Lake and for the next few hours threaded our way between luxuriant islands and rainforest national parks. The wide open spaces are most un-canal-like and yet the lake, containing some of the 10 feet of rain which falls each year, is what makes the Panama Canal possible.

This page: A Holland America cruise ship emerges from a lock chamber, guided by electric mules; Next page: Celebrity Infinity prepares to enter the first of the two chambers in the Miraflores Locks.

and my fellow passengers crowded the helipad at the bow and climbed to the uppermost decks to be in prime viewing position for our entry into the first of the three Gatun locks.

By now the humid 94-degree heat was proving too much for many of the passengers, who retreated from the outer decks to the air-conditioned comfort inside Infinity. I remained on deck, transfixed by the passing scenery and some of the curiosities.

On one bank, just past a viaduct carrying trains from the trans-Panama Railway over the water, we could see the infamous El Ranacer prison, where ex-president Manuel Noriega is held after being convicted of drug trafficking and murder.

A low-tech, neon-lit arrow indicated which of the two parallel channels we should take. Two men in a tiny rowing boat made their way from the lock side delivering ropes tied to steel cables.

We entered the Culebra Cut, a gorge carved 100 years ago by dynamite and steam shovels through the mountains of the continental divide.

I was awestruck by the gigantic feat of civil engineering and we felt like we were back in a “proper” canal once more. One that has just been widened to 715 feet and has the graceful Centennial Bridge soaring overhead.

It all seemed disarmingly primitive until those cables were attached to gleaming electric locomotives costing £1.2 million each. Their task was not to pull us through – ships use their own power – but to make sure the ship’s sides did not scrape

Then it was time to start our descent; first through the single San Miguel Lock, then through the pair at Miraflores. On our starboard side, clouds of dust rose from the construction work that will create a whole new channel and three more

bigger, wider locks. The sun was beginning to set as, passing under the Pan-American Highway carried by the steel arch of the Bridge of the Americas, Infinity emerged into the Pacific ocean. About 11 hours had passed since we entered the canal – a day which will remain in my memory for ever. On the way to Colon, we had an interesting day in the Colombian port of Cartagena, whose old walled city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I never expected the museum filled with reproductions of the torture implements used during the Spanish Inquisition.

Among the flower-decorated wooden balconies in the main street, and across from the cathedral is a house where Sir Francis Drake once lived. Behind its elegantly-restored façade is a building site, and a Google search later revealed that the four-floored home is for sale. Asking price, $4.8 million, if you’re interested.

Now who, in Colombia, could possibly afford a figure like that?

On the ship, I was dining each evening in the splendid Blu Restaurant, reserved for suite guests, where the levels of service and the quality of the food were second to none, It was also a peaceful choice for breakfast, in much the same way as the Grills restaurants on Cunard.

Highlight of the ship for me, though, was the SS America speciality restaurant, which – with its Art Deco interior containing a number of original pieces from the Blue Riband-holding liner - was like stepping back in time. The food felt like it was from another era as well; I had the creamiest of lobster bisques and a melt-in-the-mouth Dover Sole Veronique.

Just one problem, there was only one tune playing on the restaurant’s iPad the entire evening and the staff were unable to do anything about it.

Repeat, repeat, repeat: with the music it was annoying, but I would give the Panama Canal another go any time.

COVER STORY

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BOOK IT Celebrity Infinity makes a 15-night westbound Panama Transit departing Fort Lauderdale on November 4, and calling at Cartagena, Colombia; Colon, Panama; Puntarenas, Costa Rica; Puerto Quetzal, Guatemala; Puerto Vallarta and Cabo San Lucas, Mexico; and ending in San Diego, California.

Fares from £2,059 pp (based on two sharing an inside cabin) including return flights and transfers.

A 17-night westbound sailing from Fort Lauderdale on April 28 2015 visits the same ports (including an overnight stay at Cabo San Lucas) before reaching San Francisco.

Fares from £2,209.

For more information, or to book, call 0845 456 0523 or visit www.celebritycruises.co.uk

THE FUTURE After 100 years, why is the government of Panama investing at least £4 billion to expand the canal? Continuing tension in the Middle East may be reducing the attraction of Suez as an alternative route, and even with the wildest calculations of global warming, it will be some time before the fabled North-West Passage across the Pole becomes viable.

But the main reason is the threat of competition from neighbouring countries in Central America. There is a distinct possibility of competition from Nicaragua, whose government has awarded a 50-year concession to a Hong Kong-based consortium to develop a canal. Plans were announced this summer for a £23 billion investment to create a 173-mile route from Punta Gorda on the Caribbean coast to the mouth of the River Brito on the Pacific, via Lake Nicaragua. If work starts in December, as forecast, the canal could be complete by 2020.

PANAMA CANAL BY NUMBERS 48 miles The length of the canal from Limon Bay to the Bay of Panama 14,000 Number of vessels passing through the canal each year.

15 August 1914 The canal was opened to shipping with the passage of SS Ancon.

4 September 2010 Bulk carrier Fortune Plan became the one-millionth ship to transit the canal.

200 million cubic metres: The volume of rock and soil removed in the construction. Much of it was used to construct breakwaters at either end.

201 feet Clearance under The Bridge of the Americas that will still be a limiting factor on the size of ships passing through the expanded canal.

1,200 feet The maximum length of ship able to use the new locks currently being built. Width increases to 160 feet. £263,000 The approximate toll paid by a cruise ship carrying 2,500 passengers or fully-laden container ship.

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Chinese breakaway Big changes are afoot in the cruise industry as China emerges as the Next Big Thing. The news that Germany is moving to overtake the UK as the world’s number 2 two source market – behind the US – is now last week’s news. A late runner is creeping up on the outside lane, ready to outstrip them all. With its huge increasingly middle class population, you can understand why cruise lines have seen China’s potential. They know that to seriously grow a market, you need to commit to it completely. Then, it is a question of the momentum taking it forward, and we are beginning to see just that.

The first Western company to seriously dip a toe in the Chinese market was unsurprisingly from the Carnival group, when in 2006 Costa positioned their first ship in the region specifically for the domestic market.

With a history of playing the long game, they have taken plenty of time to adjust their product to suit the local tastes and requirements. The announcement that they will dispatch a fourth ship next April follows hot on the heels of Royal Caribbean’s surprise commitment to placing its newest ship, Quantum of the Seas, on a route from Shanghai to Japan and Korea next May. Meanwhile Sapphire Princess, Carnival Corporation’s first premium-priced ship in the region, will begin a four-month season in Shanghai in May 2015.

EDWINA LONSDALE is managing director of Mundy Cruising , the UK’s oldest cruise-only retailer, selling luxury cruises since 1970

Furthermore, Genting Hong Kong has commissioned a pair of 150,000gt newbuilds for Star Cruises that are due for delivery in October 2016 and October 2017.

The first is expected to sail from Hong Kong.

We know that the Chinese have a tradition of travelling en masse. One of the most extraordinary things I experienced on my last visit was rising in the dark to see the West Lake in Hangzhou at dawn, and finding instead of the peaceful and romantic scene we anticipated, a mass of over-enthusiastic tour groups, distinguished from one another by the colour of their baseball hats, chattering at the tops of their voices. So it is not really surprising that, once the idea of going on a cruise begins to permeate the market, the cruise lines anticipate fantastic growth. Customising for the market has been important. Chinese cruise customers are typically younger than those from Europe and the U.S. with many young family groups. Limited vacation time means the focus is on three- to five-day voyages, so cruise lines have to find far more passengers. They are very active vacationers, with a taste for lots of activity and plenty of food – perfect cruisers in fact!

Extraordinarily, the expectation is that China will become the world’s second-largest market, after the U.S., by 2017. Watch this space!

Southampton to San Francisco 06 Jan 2015 | Arcadia from £1999

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Floating in

Paradise Robert Louis Stevenson, on his travels in the Pacific, hated the sea and liked islands. He wrote in 1888 that sailing the sea was “stupefying to the mind and poisonous to the temper... but you are amply repaid when you sight an island and drop anchor in a new world”.

By ADAM JACOT DE BOINOD

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Clockwise from top: Paul Gaugin at anchor; a sumptuous suite; matching decor; a peaceful moment of contemplation; fish by the thousand; dining in the open air

D

ropping anchor on a cruise ship may not appeal to all but it is not just ‘plain sailing’. There is always something to feast upon. I stopped at different spots regularly enough to make each day new. It’s true that for a European the South Pacific is a long, long way but the pressure is off instantly on landing; the airport in Tahiti as its marina are sparingly near to each other.

I experienced the high-end of cruise ships in the South Pacific with Paul Gauguin Cruises. The overall level of service and style is impressive with even an original Paul Gauguin sketch on board, donated by his family: such is the strength of connection with the ship’s title. The crew (216 in all to look after 320 guests) are drawn mainly from a variety of the local islands, which gives them authenticity and a pleasing reassurance. Tahitians have been renowned since Gauguin’s day for their sensual beauty, so who better to have the job of meeting and greeting than a hand-picked bevy?

The clientele are predominantly American, coming via Los Angeles although a notable fraction of the world’s French speakers enjoy the familiarity of the Tricoleur.

Travel companies have become alert to realizing the extent to which food plays an essential part in the mix of an outstanding holiday.

My palate was treated to dishes as varied as the colours on Gauguin’s palette, with fresh produce and round-the-clock room service.

The restaurants were diverse in their menus with fresh fish naturally prevalent and favourites such as Spice crusted Tahitian yellow fin tuna medallions and Grilled moon fish.

As with the size of the vessel, so with the amenities. There is plenty to enjoy on what would is effectively a 5-star hotel, although gambling and slot machines appealed to a worrying number in preference to traditional Polynesian dancing on offer further down the deck.

There is so much available in terms of sea-based activities and excursions with snorkelling, hiking, aquabikes and even swimming with friendly stingrays. I got my cultural fix by listening to a lecturer on Polynesia, others got theirs by going on a botanical and agricultural walk.

F

or once the brochure doesn’t lie. Nor do the pictures need airbrushing. In visiting French Polynesia I was being granted a rare treat, not just a

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Clockwise from top: The palm-roofed huts of a Tahitian resort; happy faces among the children; traditional singers greet the visitors; traditional tattoo art

WORLD OF CRUISING

FACTFILE Adam flew with Air Tahiti Nui from Los Angeles to Papeete, Tahiti.

He travelled on the Paul Gauguin Cruises’ seven-night Tahiti & The Society Islands cruise costs from £4,001 per person based on two people sharing. Price includes return scheduled flights from the UK and seven nights in an ocean view stateroom with all meals, soft drinks, selected alcoholic beverages and gratuities. Call Paul Gauguin Cruises on 020 7399 7691 or visit www.pgcruises.com

holiday. These are stunning volcanic islands, set against the foreboding spirit of the Pacific Ocean, with their dramatic surging peaks. They have a wonderful prospect, and a seemingly gothic structure when seen from the vessel.

There is something reverential about the serenity of the lush green-capped mountain tops and at night one is virtually guaranteed the full spangling array of the stars. This is the region that brought to the world the notion of taboo and tattoos. The islanders believe in the power (mana) of their ancestors and feel they are simply stewards of the land that they see as belonging to their Gods.

T

his seven-night trip has been cleverly construed with a schedule that is paced to allow for recovery from the flight, and adjustment to the time difference and climate. The first two days act as a gentle aperitif for what is to come. I stepped off on day one at Hauhine to enjoy a restorative

day, plucking mangos from their tree to eat and swimming in the crystal-blue waters. Tahaa was the second stop with a gorgeous trip to an islet (motu). Then came Bora Bora, world-famous for its amazing shape – with a steep peak surrounded by a ring of motus.

Though overtly touristic and very territorial with its private beaches, nonetheless cruising is a relatively economic way of visiting this sceptered isle. On land, an hotel of similar standard to the vessel would cost an arm and a leg.

While Bora Bora is special for its extraordinary array of shades of blue water, Moorea is just as special for its shades of green land. I felt so excited in waking up at dawn to see the boat approaching the island.

God has a sense of paradise though even there he taunts us with mosquitos!

Tahiti itself has as a former name for the island “Tahiti-nui-i-te-vai-urirau”, meaning “Great Tahiti of the many-coloured waters”.

I

picked up a Tahitian-to-English dictionary and found words that exemplified this most exotic of locations. Aina – the skin of the armpits when of a dark colour – was something I developed and aruriri – a sea that in breaking sends up its sprays towards the clouds – was something I witnessed but luckily I didn’t suffer from iriaa – the skin peeling off a person after being sun burnt, or feel the need to neeneetapuahi – to crawl by an oven of food.

The author Austin Coates, in his book, Islands of the South, tells of wandering Polynesians avoiding large, mountainous islands, preferring smaller, more isolated atolls. “In the framework of an ocean civilisation, these dots were the centres, mountainous islands the periphery”. I am not sure those, like me, who set eyes upon the jewels of Bora Bora and Moorea, would necessarily agree.

Delight has no curfew.

A seven-course meal at midnight on your private veranda is only the beginning of the night.

seabourn.co.uk

0843 373 2000 Ships’ registry: Bahamas. Š 2014 Seabourn.

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Caption clockwise from top: Riga is Art Nouveau heaven, one of 800 buildings; Tallinn rich in history above and below ground (PICTURE: Toomas Volmer); Unesco world heritage site, Curonian Spit, is a ferry hop from Klaipeda

The Baltic States are rich in a chequered history, having at various times been home to a number of different nationalities. When I first visited Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania in 1992 they were in the early days of independence from the Soviet Union. Fascinating then and now, I can’t recommend visiting highly enough. By SUSAN PARKER

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Riga, Latvia

Klaipeda, Lithuania

Tallinn, Estonia

Riga is the European capital of culture this year – Tom Jones and the Kings of Leon are among the acts who have been performing there this summer. Great for admirers of Art Nouveau, the museum housed in the private home of Latvian architect Konstantins Peksens is an absolute delight. Just up the road, the Art Cafe Sienna, packed with genuine period furnishings, is a perfect stop for a coffee.

Klaipeda is Lithuania’s third largest city with a history dating back to 1252 and the Teutonic Knights. Off the beaten track, its Fachwerk-style old town, craftsmen‘s courtyards and cobblestone streets are an easy stroll from the ship. This is also a city rich in museums ranging from the Lithuanian Sea Museum and the Dolphinarium to the Clocks and Watches Museum and Blacksmith Museum.

From the port it’s a 10-minute walk to Tallinn’s main attraction, the Medieval Old Town, which is a gem.

Entering from the grand gates, 12th century Oleviste Church, once the tallest building in Europe, stands proud before you. For two euros, visitors can climb the tower to enjoy the great view. Safe to ignore the tourist tat in the Sadama Turg port market and for a different atmosphere visit the old city walls on Muurivahe Street where market stalls bustle with activity. Town Hall Square is where the city really buzzes. Sit and watch the world go by at one of the many cafes. You may even chance upon one of the various medieval characters who bring history alive, as does the Estonian History Museum with its “Spirit of Survival: 11,000 years of Estonian History” exhibition.

A trip to the old artillery tower Kiek in de Kok offers insight into Tallinn’s fortifications as well as the chance to visit The Bastion Tunnels, an underground system dating back to the 17th century. Toompea has great views and is home to the Estonian Parliament building and two historical churches. Less well-known is Linnahall, a crumbling concrete edifice built as a concert and sports venue for the Moscow Summer Olympic Games in 1980 when Estonia was part of the Soviet Union.

After a morning’s walk you may want to have lunch in the garden of restaurant Leib Resto ja Aed in Uus Street or, if you are feeling adventurous opt for a medieval meal at Olde Hansa.

Almost all of this city can be done on foot with the port 15 minutes from the centre. Riga oozes history from every corner, whether it be the Orthodox Church (a planetarium during Soviet times), the Powder Tower, the Riga Cathedral (then a concert hall) with its 6,718-pipe organ, or the central market housed in former Zeppelin hangars.

This is a green city and you may want to hop on a canal boat for a leisurely introduction to the place.

The Freedom Monument honours soldiers killed during the Latvian War of Independence from 1918 to 1920. The former KGB headquarters is now open to visitors; it and the Museum of Occupation are reminders of a darker past. Warm up with lunch at the Restaurant Riviera or at Koya, closer to the port; stop off at Laima for chocolates and do try the local herbal liqueur, Riga black balsam.

Feeling adventurous? Hop on a ferry to the Curonian Spit, a UNESCO world heritage site with the highest sand dunes in Europe at 52m. For another breather from the city try Palanga, the country’s largest resort but also home to an museum full of amber-fossilized insects.

A more sinister attraction, if you can call it that, is the 1960s-built Plokstine Soviet Nuclear Weapon Site hidden deep in the forests and with its rockets aimed at Western European cities. Climbing through a narrow hatch to see the 27-metre deep missile silo and the bleak living quarters may not be everyone’s cup of tea but it’s certainly different.

Perhaps more uplifting is the Vente Cape Bird Ringing Station opened in 1929. As you head back to the ship you could stop off at the Ferryman House restaurant for Lithuanian ‘beast’s meat and Baltic Sea fishes’ while watching the ships go by.

FACTFILE

FACTFILE

FACTFILE

Tourism www.liveriga.com

Tourism www.way2lithuania.com

Tourism www.tourism.tallinn.ee

Population 701,185

Population 175,209

Population 431,184

Restaurants - Koya for views - Art Cafe Sienna for history

Restaurants - Viva Lavita for views - S tora Antis dates back to 1856

Restaurants - Leib Resto ja Aed with terrace - Tchaikovsky for Russian

35

NORWEGIANS HAVE MORE CHOICE. NORWEGIANS CRUISE LIKE NO OTHER PEOPLE ON EARTH. WITH MORE CHOICE OF WHAT TO SEE AND DO, NORWEGIANS DO IT THEIR WAY. WE CALL IT FREESTYLE CRUISING®. YOU MIGHT JUST CALL IT YOUR BEST HOLIDAY EVER.

NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE HIGHLIGHTS: • Brand new Norwegian Getaway sailing the Caribbean year round • The incredible Norwegian Epic sailing in Europe year round from May 2015 • Up to 29 dining choices • Up to 22 bars and lounges • World-class headline entertainment • Accommodation to suit all tastes • Luxurious spas & oceanview gyms • Kids & teens clubs • Exclusive family entertainment with NickelodeonTM*

THOUSANDS OF CHOICES, ALL OF

THEM RIGHT.

MEDITERRANEAN • BALTIC • CARIBBEAN & BAHAMAS • HAWAI’I • ALASKA • PANAMA CANAL EXPLORE: www.ncl.co.uk CALL: 0845 201 8900

NCL_UK

*NickelodeonTM entertainment features on selected ships only. ©2014 NCL Corporation LTD Ship’s Registry: Bahamas and United States of America. 5554.07.14

Norwegian Cruise Line UK

LIFE ON BOARD

WORLD OF CRUISING

Interview with

Kieron Buffery – Cruise Director of ms Noordam How did you get started in the cruise industry? Have you always worked on the entertainment side of the ship’s team?

I have worked at sea since the age of 16. Directly after leaving school, I worked on the cross channel ferries from Dover to France as a Junior Catering rating. It wasn’t the most glamorous of jobs, but I enjoyed the idea of being on the sea and a ship environment. I didn’t start in the entertainment department of a cruise ship until 1993. Prior to that, I had worked in hotels in Spain, Sweden and Cyprus in the entertainment department.

Both of you parents were seafarers.

Did you ever consider not following their example?

Yes, I actually wanted to pursue an acting or musical theatre career. I was a member of the National Youth Theatre in the mid 80s, but the desire for travel and seeing the world was too much of a thrill to be settled down in one place. I had the chance to audition for the West End production of Les Miserables in 1993, but ran away to sea instead.

When did you first go on a cruise?

My first cruise was the first one I actually worked on, from Southampton to the Canary Islands back in 1993.

What does the job of cruise director entail?

My role as CD is to produce, deliver and execute a quality entertainment programme for our guests, day and night. The cruise director is the head of the entertainment department and works closely with the event manager to make this happen. I also have the privilege of taking to the stage every night to act as MC for our wonderful nightly shows. I am on the floor a lot, listening to our guests’ needs, following up on any challenges they may have, and also making sure that they are having the best possible stay when they are travelling on our ships.

37

Bangkok Thailand Phnom Penh Ho Chi Minh City Sihanoukville Cambodia Vietnam

Gulf of

Malaysia Thailand Kuantan Singapore

Semarang Java Sea Borobudur Bali Java indonesia

CRUISE FROM BALI TO BANGKOK 1 FEBRUARY 2015 DATE

PORT

FEB 1

Depart UK

FEB 2

Arrive BALI Indonesia Transfer to hotel

ARRIVE

overnight hotel overnight hotel

FEB 3/4 BALI Indonesia

INDONESIAN ISLES & ASIA’S GREAT CITIES From Bali to Bangkok, discover Asia’s beautiful islands, great cities and historical treasures on a 3-week voyage through Southeast Asia.

Combine a 3-night stay on the magical island of Bali with dynamic

Singapore and exotic Phnom Penh. Sail into the heart of colonial Ho Chi Minh City and vibrant Bangkok on board our elegant small ship, Aegean Odyssey. Carrying just 350 passengers, you’ll enjoy the personal service and intimate yet spacious surroundings on board. Finish your holiday in style with 2 nights in a top class hotel in Bangkok.

DEPART

FEB 5

BALI Indonesia Embark Aegean Odyssey

FEB 6

At Sea

FEB 7

SEMARANG (Borobudur) Java, Indonesia

6.00pm 6.00am

8.00pm

FEB 8/9 At Sea 6.00am

FEB 10 SINGAPORE

overnight 2.00pm

FEB 11 SINGAPORE 8.00am

1.00pm

FEB 14 HO CHI MINH CITY Vietnam 1.00pm

overnight

FEB 15 HO CHI MINH CITY Vietnam

6.00pm

FEB 12 KUANTAN Malaysia FEB 13 At Sea

FEB 16 At Sea FEB 17 SIHANOUKVILLE Cambodia 6.00am (Phnom Penh)

8.00pm

FEB 18 At Sea FEB 19 BANGKOK Thailand Disembark Aegean Odyssey

7.00am overnight hotel overnight hotel

FEB 20 BANGKOK

FEB 21 BANGKOK Thailand Transfer to Bangkok Airport for flight home

EXCEPTIONAL VALUE – CRUISE-TOUR FARES INCLUDE:

• • • • • • • •

Return scheduled economy class flights with domestic connections from selected UK airports 3-night hotel stay in Bali and 2-night hotel stay in Bangkok Sightseeing excursions ashore at all ports of call – escorted by expert guides Expert guest speakers on board Open-seating dining with choice of 2 restaurants on board Complimentary wine with dinner on board (beer or soft drinks if preferred) Gratuities for on-board cabin and restaurant staff Overseas transfers and baggage handling

Experience small-ship cruising at its best

CRUISE-TOUR SAMPLE FARES

per person

£3,495 £3,995 £5,595

CAT M Standard Inside CAT J Standard Outside CAT D Deluxe Balcony Prices are per person based on two sharing. #In dedicated single cabins.

SINGLE SUPPLEMENT ONLY £250#

To reserve your cabin call 0845 437 9737 or visit www.voyagestoantiquity.com

10093

ABTA No.Y2206

LIFE ON BOARD

WORLD OF CRUISING

Kieron Buffery

What makes a good cruise director?

I believe a genuine personality on and off the stage is very important and being very comfortable in having “one on one” conversations with guests. Also being able to anticipate the needs of our guest demographics is very important. We are a global brand that carries a wide demographic of guests, so what one nationality may enjoy, another may not be so enthusiastic about. It is always challenging to try and find that happy medium.

Do you have a team working for you?

Yes. I work with the event manager, and we oversee approximately 50 staff from musicians to youth staff, Culinary Arts Center host, DJ and showhost, technical staff, lecturers, guest entertainers, and singers and dancers.

What is the strangest request you have had, and were you able to fulfil it?

No comment! LOL! How has the job changed over the years? Do people have different expectations?

In my role at Holland America I am able to be on the floor with the guests as I am not tied to the office with paperwork. Years ago it was the cruise director who did it all, but that load has been shared with the event manager, which frees me up to get out and be with the guests a lot more than in years gone by.

Has technology affected how you do your job; do people expect to be able to get hold of you instantly?

I am available 24 hours a day seven days a week.

I carry a phone that staff and crew can contact me on at any time.

What might surprise people about your job?

No two days are EVER the same. it is a very diverse and exciting role that differs from day to day. It is hard work at times, but I would not change it for the world.

What is your favourite part of the job?

And your least favourite?

I love being with the guests, I love being on the stage, I always have. I love making a difference to a guest’s day and I strive every day to exceed our guests’ expectations.

The least favourite part is to leave behind an outstanding team who you have bonded with over the months. That part makes me sad.

How long do you spend at sea in a year?

I spend approximately 8 months a year at sea on a 4 month on 2 months off rotation.

What makes Holland America different in how it interacts with passengers?

Our ships are, in general, smaller and more personable than our competitors’ mega ships that carry 5,000 guests. On our ships you know you are going to see the same people day in day out. I enjoy standing at the gangway in the morning and wishing the guests a wonderful day. Our guests really do appreciate this. In this business, it is the small things that count. We pride ourselves at HAL with the gracious service and personal engagement with our guests that stems from our senior on-board leadership all the way down.

Do you get many celebrities on board?

Do they have different requirements to other passengers?

I have only met a small handful, and they are for the most part normal down to earth people like you and me.

Most recently I had the pleasure of meeting Captain Sig Hansen from The Deadliest Catch. We got on very well when he sailed on the Eurodam last Autumn. He and his wife were the nicest people, very laid back and we are still in touch.

Do you get much time to visit golf courses while cruising? What’s the best course you’ve played on?

I think Mahogany Run in St. Thomas is a beautiful course, with a very challenging trio of holes called the Devil’s Triangle. Any course in Hawaii is always a special day, in particular The Plantation Course in Kapalua, Maui! WOW! Do you take your guitar on board with you and have you ever played for guests?

I used to travel with my guitar and do my own sing-a-longs, but not so much any more - I simply don’t get the chance to do it, as there is so much going on during a cruise.

39

OPEN THE DOOR TO A NEW WORLD OF CRUISING

At Viking, we like to do things differently. The design of our Viking Longships has transformed the river cruise experience and now, with the launch of our new ocean ships, we intend to revolutionise ocean cruising.

We believe that cruising should be about experiencing each destination and not just linking places on a map. Your journey should be one in which you can immerse yourself in the local culture; one that will relax and refresh you, and perhaps even change the way you see the world.

On every Viking journey you will spend less time at sea, and more time in each inspiring destination. You will also enjoy more evenings and overnights in port so you can explore even further.

Great value is a given when you travel with Viking. On all our journeys you can look forward to a host of inclusions, such as delicious meals on board with complimentary wine, beer and soft drinks, a guided excursion in almost every destination and free WI-Fi on board.

Built for discovery, the all-veranda Viking Star, Viking Sea and Viking Sky are home to just 930 guests. Smaller and more intimate than most ocean ships, they can take you to places inaccessible to larger ships.

Step aboard and you step into another world; a world of distinctive surrounds and quiet elegance. Inspired by our Scandinavian heritage, the style is a marriage of classic and contemporary, with fine art, textiles and furnishings of uncompromising quality. Innovative design, state-of-the-art technology and supreme comfort feature throughout.

Take a dip in the first glass-walled infinity pool at sea.

Take a stroll around the sleek, teak promenade deck.

Relax on your private veranda with a glass of something chilled and drink in the views. Dine alfresco in one of the many inviting restaurants. From bow to stern, each and every one of these ships is a triumph.

The launch of our 2015 sailing season has met with phenomenal success and is very nearly sold out.

To find out more about our 2016 sailings visit www.vikingoceancruises.co.uk and to reserve your Veranda Stateroom call us on 020 8780 8715 now.

OCEANS OF SPACE WITH VIKING

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RIVER CRUISING WORLD OF CRUISING

RIVER CRUISING WORLD OF CRUISING

ROYAL

43

CROWN If Miss Marple had peeked out from behind one of the palms in the Royal Lounge I doubt anyone would have batted an eyelid. Such is the cameo of Edwardian noblesse oblige that overflows aboard Royal Crown. The anachronistic river cruise ship is unlike any other and offers a milieu that harks back to the genteel pastimes of yesteryear. Think Orient Express style of décor and decorum and you’re getting close.

By GARY BUCHANAN

M

aritime historians often fill cruise ship theatres with their talks entitled ‘The Sway of the Grand Salon’ or ‘The Legacy of the Ocean Liners’ but any reference to river cruising in the days of yore are noticeably absent from modern-day chronicles. While a clutch of celebrated ocean ships flaunt their interpretation of the Golden Age of travel, no river cruise ship serves up nostalgia like Royal Crown. This peerless vessel offers a conduit to an era of exploring Europe’s waterways that seems to have been forgotten by the annals of history.

The current vogue in river cruise vessel construction is all about bragging rights with über-cool design innovations in marine architecture defying the operational constraints that ships face while

navigating Europe’s complex rivers, canals and locks. Royal Crown offers a more sedate vibe - one I came to appreciate for its subtle alchemy of Thirties glamour and modern élan.

Built in 1996 as River Cloud I by the Grave Shipyard in Holland for Sea Cloud Cruises GmbH of Hamburg, it was conceived in the style of the luxurious sailing ships operated by the company. In 2010 the vessel was acquired by the Neerlandic Shipping Group – a Dutch-based company with a portfolio of 17 tanker ships. It has been the sole operator of the Hamburg-registered Royal Crown since 2012.

This winsome vessel is now available to British passengers thanks to sole charters by Noble Caledonia; Hebridean Island Cruises, and Titan (sold through www.cruise.co.uk). A

highlight of the extensive series of Noble Caledonia charters in 2015 is a 23-night ‘Across Europe by River’ travelling more than 2,200 miles from Amsterdam to the Black Sea. This sailing heads along the Rhine, Main and Danube, undertaking a navigation that was conceived by Charlemagne more than 1,200 years ago.

H

ighlights include the imperial cities of Vienna and Budapest; picturesque Rhineland towns of Miltenberg and Rüdesheim; as well as wine-tasting in Würzburg and the Wachau Valley.

Musical interludes include an organ recital in Passau and a gypsy band in Budapest. The London Festival Opera will join the cruise in Vienna for two special performances, including one in the beautiful Klarissen Church. Guest speaker on

44

RIVER CRUISING WORLD OF CRUISING

Amsterdam in our wake and as we set sail into the Dutch hinterland I realised that river cruising is the most effortless way to travel. No other mode of transport allows you to slip so silently, so unobtrusively, through natural tableaux.

This page, from top: Royal Suites offer traditional luxury and consummate comfort.

The Royal Lounge is a focal point of life on board.

Next Page: The decorous Bar in the Royal Lounge.

the April 29 departure is Nicholas Merchant who has worked for major auction houses in London; while the BBC’s first head of Music and Arts, Humphrey Burton will be aboard on the September 6 sailing.

When Royal Crown is chartered by Hebridean Island Cruises the company creates a semblance of the experience guests enjoy aboard the perennially-popular Hebridean Princess. Personnel such as Pursers David Indge or Charles Carroll; Cruise Director Sheila Salmon; as well as pianist Will Marshall from the former Hebridean Spirit; not to mention a familiar crew member or two, accompany these departures.

Familiar touches such as ‘Piping the Haggis’ during the farewell gala dinner ensure familiarity is a key element of these river cruise programmes which are inclusive of tours, wines and gratuities.

On my cruise we left the bustle of

At Hoorn, whose role for the Dutch East India Company is reflected in the quaint buildings, it was a revelation to learn that Chile’s Cape Horn was originally given the name ‘Kaap Hoorn’ - in honour of this Dutch city. Touring the Zuiderzee Museum in Enkhuizen we saw what life was like before the Afsluitdijk (IJsselmeer Barrier Dam) transformed the sea into the Ijsselmeer (one of the largest inland freshwater lakes in Holland) in 1932.

V

olendam’s history is preserved in art, literature and music of this waterfront town. From here we took an excursion to Zaanse Schans, an open-air museum with typical 17th and 18th century houses and windmills still in perfect working order. Lined up in two opposing rows, the 19 pristinely preserved windmills at Kinderdijk were erected in the 1600s to drain the flood-prone Alblasserwaard polders. In this UNESCO World Heritage Site we also saw how dykes, reservoirs and pumping stations play a vital role in Holland’s water management.

RIVER CRUISING WORLD OF CRUISING

The real joy though, was floating through the pastoral landscapes at a medieval pace. All around us, meadows winnowed with wild flowers interspersed with canals hazily reflecting the tall poplars lining their banks offered an evocative scene. The meandering waterways were like a slow-running commentary to a bucolic scene of villages and hamlets which open up to river cruise ships in a demeanour impossible to experience by road and car. Anyone who has experienced this holiday type is under no illusion that river cruising offers the ultimate in effortless Europe.

“What makes a river so restful to people is that it doesn’t have any doubt. It is sure to get where it is going and it doesn’t want to go anywhere else.” This observation by Pulitzer Prize winning journalist Hal Boyle was never far from my mind aboard Royal Crown - itself brim-full of doubtless charm.

D

uring my exploration of this vessel that’s not so much faked as well edited, I had an epiphany. Strolling along the wide mahogany-panelled corridor from the rosewood-clad saloon that is the Dining Room to the central stairwell that descends from the reception area towards the main accommodation deck, I could have been aboard the legendary Cunard liner Aquitania – renowned in the 1930s as the ‘ship beautiful’.

The all-consuming aura is akin to a grand European hotel. Small details such as metal cabin keys rather than plastic key-cards; an ornamental fireplace and baby grand piano in the Royal Lounge; teak deck furniture and traditional sun-loungers; as well as a putting green on the Sun Deck enhance the mood of a vessel that rekindles the values of yesteryear.

There are three grades of accommodation. The six Royal Suites on Panorama Deck have burr-walnut panelling throughout; twin beds

have cosy duvets; there’s ample wardrobe space; large central dresser with mirrors; flat-screen television and refrigerator. Two large floor-to-ceiling windows have Venetian blinds and there’s a lounge area with sofa and table. The bathrooms (identical in all grades) are large for a river cruise ship and come with a generous glass-enclosed shower. Four Premium Suites are located on Cabin Deck as are 35 Deluxe Suites; these have portholes rather than windows and have differing bed layouts. Unlike latter-day vessels there are no private balconies.

The Dining Room with tables for six and eight has floor-to-ceiling windows. A well-stocked central buffet has plethora of breakfast and lunch choices while dinner is served by the courteous waiting staff. One night I savoured an Amuse Bouche of Melon Mint Shot with Crispy Bacon; Tomato and Mozzarella Caprese; French Onion Soup; Roasted Duck Breast with Grand Marnier Sauce, Red Cabbage and Williams Potatoes; rounded off with a Coconut Parfait with Pineapple Mint Confit. We enjoyed a Riesling Schiefer Steillege from Germany at €26 a bottle.

45

46

RIVER CRUISING WORLD OF CRUISING

“

What makes a river so restful to people is that it doesn’t have any doubt.

It is sure to get where it is going and it doesn’t want to go anywhere else.

A

s the late afternoon sun raked across villages silhouetted against a rose-coloured sky we sipped cocktails on deck where G&Ts were a reasonable €5 and a half-litre of Veltins draught beer a refreshing €3.80. After-dinner entertainment was in the Royal Lounge where pianist Sunny entertained, some guests even took advantage of the small dance floor while others chose to sit at the convivial semi-circular bar and quaff the crisp house wine at €3.50 or single malts for €8.50.

There’s also a gift shop and library on Panorama Deck as well as a fitness centre and dry sauna.

This all-too-short voyage through the river and canal network that is an integral part of the Dutch topography certainly whetted my appetite for a longer voyage which features in summer and autumn itineraries. However it offered a pitch-perfect showcase to the inimitable Royal Crown.

”

FACTFILE ROYAL CROWN Tonnage Length Passengers Crew Fares

2,721 tonnes 110 metres 90 27 The 23-night ‘Across Europe by River’ from Amsterdam to Constanta sailing on 29 April 2015 costs from £5,895.

10-night ‘Eastern Odyssey’ from Bucharest to Vienna sailing on 22 May 2015 costs from £3,000.

Book www.noble-caledonia.co.uk 020 7752 0000

discover

the World’s most extraordinary places in 2015 Our spacious, mid-sized ships accommodate far fewer guests.

Everywhere you look you feel a sense of elegance and history... gleaming brass, precious art and antiques, sweeping staircases... all combined with comfortable furnishings and state of the art modern amenities.

You’ll relax in large, comfortable staterooms, most with ocean views, many with private balconies and bathrooms with tubs; Dine in restaurants that sparkle with chandeliers, crystal and conversation – including the intimate “Pinnacle Grill” the informal Italian Canaletto and the Pan-Asian “Tamarind”~ Learn a new skill at our Culinary Arts demonstrations and Digital Workshops. Learn about the history and best sights of your next port from our “On Location” expert; or simply look at the changing scenery as you stroll around polished teak decks.

with Holland America Line All guests boarding a cruise ship expect the very best.

Holland America Line delivers MORE, with a “Signature of Excellence” that enhances every aspect of the experience.

Receive all four exceptional offers on select 2015 cruises: 1 FREE Stateroom Upgrades* 3 REDUCED 3rd/4th fares*

2 FREE Pinnacle Grill Dinner* 4 WORRY FREE Deposit*

PLUS: FREE Parking for Harwich departures* Bonus offers for suites: US$300 onboard spending credit per stateroom and a FREE Canaletto dinner when you book a suite!* *See our Terms & Conditions

NEW

7-night

Eastern Caribbean

11-night

Adriatic Dream

Roundtrip Fort Lauderdale Rome to Venice Ms Eurodam 3 Jan 2015 Ms Zuiderdam CRUISE ONLY

Interior Stateroom Ocean View Stateroom Verandah Stateroom Signature Suite

FROM PP CRUISE ONLY

£399 £499 £499 £999

• Free Upgrade from ocean view to verandah • Half Moon Cay – HAL’s own private island

7-night

Viking Sagas

Roundtrip Harwich 28 May 2015 Ms Ryndam FROM PP CRUISE ONLY

Interior Stateroom Ocean View Stateroom Verandah Stateroom Signature Suite

£1,199 £1,299 £1,299 £1,999

• Free Upgrade from ocean view to verandah • Overnight onboard in Venice

Interior Stateroom Ocean View Stateroom Vista suite Neptune suite

14-night Northern Isles

Roundtrip Harwich 16 May 2015 Ms Ryndam 20 June 2015 FROM PP CRUISE ONLY

£699 £699 £1,399 £1,799

• Free Upgrade from inside to ocean view • Free Parking*

Interior Stateroom Ocean View Stateroom Vista suite Neptune suite

FROM PP

£1,499 £1,499 £3,399 £4,949

• Free Upgrade from inside to ocean view • Free Parking*

PLEASE ASK FOR FLY/CRUISE PRICING

Call your travel professional, visit www.hollandamerica.co.uk or call 0843 374 2300. * ALL PRICES STATED ARE CRUISE ONLY. Fares listed are in GBP Sterling. All fares are based on Promo(s) RH/LG. Featured fares are per person based on double occupancy and include Taxes, Fees & Port Expenses. Explore 4 offers are per person based on Promo ZX, double occupancy, for 1st and 2nd guests sharing a stateroom and exclude 3rd/4th guests, except as provided herein. Explore4 offers are available for new bookings only, are not combinable with Flash promotions, are capacity controlled, and may be modified or withdrawn without prior notice. Other restrictions may apply. Offers are applicable to select 2015 and 2016 departures. Free stateroom upgrade offer is valid for select sailings and categories and is subject to availability of staterooms in the higher grade. For example, book an ocean view stateroom and pay the price of an interior stateroom. Upgrade offers in selected categories vary by ship. Free Pinnacle Grill dinner is available only to ocean-view category and above staterooms. Guests will receive one complimentary Pinnacle Grill dinner per person. Pinnacle Grill dinner offer is not transferrable or refundable. Conditions apply. Third/fourth offer is based on sharing a stateroom with 1st and 2nd guests and is based on Promo Z3. Worry Free Deposit permits guests to make changes to their original booking up to 90 days prior to departure or the final payment due date, whichever comes first. Conditions apply. *Free Parking offer applies to departures from Harwich only, and only to new bookings on ocean-view and above staterooms, one car per booking. Parking must be applied at time of booking. Suite offer: Guests who book a suite receive one complimentary Canaletto dinner per person and US$150 per person (US$300 per stateroom) onboard spending credit. Suite offers apply only to 1st and 2nd guests sharing a stateroom and are not transferable or refundable.

48

ADVENTURE & WILDLIFE WORLD OF CRUISING

The AdĂŠlie penguin is common along the entire Antarctic coast and lives in rookeries of tens of thousands of birds.

ADVENTURE & WILDLIFE WORLD OF CRUISING

Go wild around the world STEVE NEWMAN looks at luxury adventure cruising

W

hen a penguin being chased by killer whales jumps out of the water and into your Zodiac to seek safety it’s a pretty memorable experience.

This has happened in Antarctica, where the birds have no fear of humans and it amply illustrates a couple of points about wildlife cruising.

Firstly you can get incredibly close to nature. Stroking humpback whales or swimming alongside whale sharks now regularly appear on adventure cruise activities and secondly you must expect to see nature “red in tooth and claw.”

How close you get to nature depends entirely on you. You don’t have to go on the purpose-built expedition ships with their zodiacs and less than 200 people aboard landing on wave lapped beaches with slippery rocks. If you prefer to you can watch with binoculars from the panorama lounge of 5 and 6 star luxury ships from lines such as Crystal, Regent Seven Seas and Hapag Lloyd. Oceania Cruises may be renowned for their epicurean content but they also run excursions in Alaska to see Brown bears fishing for migrating salmon in the swollen rivers.

The world of adventure wildlife cruising is changing rapidly and the above choices are now becoming increasingly blurred by companies such as Silversea, Seabourn and Compagnie de Ponant who combine sumptuous luxury with zodiac landings in some of remotest parts of the world.

Do consider your own physical health and mobility when thinking about a wildlife cruise. Can you clamber out of a zodiac or would you be better with a company that uses DIBs, tenders or Polar Cirkel boats. What follows is a very brief description of what’s on offer around the world and some of the cruise companies going there.

49

50

ADVENTURE & WILDLIFE WORLD OF CRUISING

Alaska Brown bears fishing for migrating salmon, while standing in foaming rivers are one of the iconic sights of Alaskan wildlife.

The summer season is mid-May to September but it is best to time your visit between June and August. However, the region also has some of the best whale watching anywhere.

Orcas, greys and humpbacks are all seen here and all the time you can expect to see dolphins and seals going about their daily lives. Other Alaskan specialities include moose and bald eagle as well as polar bear, wolf and caribou.

Hapag Lloyd, Un-Cruise, Regent Seven Seas, Oceania, Lindblad Expeditions, Zegrahm, Noble Caledonia, Royal Caribbean, Crystal Cruises

Antarctica and the Southern Ocean

Australia and New Zealand

Central and South America

Penguins are the big attraction here along with fur seals, elephant seals, and some staggering bird life.

Outside the confines of Antarctica are the Falkland Islands and sub-Antarctic islands such as the South Shetlands and South Georgia.

In mainland South America, the sight of killer whales coming right up onto the beaches to take sea lions in Patagonia is unforgettable.

The coastal scenery of New Zealand is simply stunning and the waters around here hold sperm whale and New Zealand fur seals. The Great Barrier Reef is another amazing site that teems with wildlife above and below the waves and it is hard to beat the epic scope given by Australia’s North West coast, and the Kimberley region. Best time to travel to the Kimberley is April to September, whilst the south of the continent is best visited between March and August. New Zealand is best visited in the drier summer months of December through to March.

Snorkeling with Californian sea lion pups in Mexico’s Sea of Cortez is incredible, with the whole area awash with whales, sea mammals and amazing birds. Hikes on uninhabited islands give you humming birds and rattle snakes whilst kayaking into sea caves has many a surprise.

The large cruise ships can get up the Amazon as far as Manaus and smaller luxury boat cruises operate along its length right up the headwaters in Peru. If you’re traversing the Panama Canal excursion trips into the jungle with zip wires and canopy walks are on offer where you can get amongst the Howler Monkeys and exotic parrot species.

It is now possible to fly to Antarctica from Chile and pick up the ship there to avoid crossing Drake’s Passage which can either be very rough ( A Drake Shake) or very placid (A Drake Lake).

Lindblad Expeditions, Voyages of Discovery, Noble Caledonia, Orion Expeditions,

Antarctic Dream, Exodus, Lindblad Expeditions,

Captain Cook Cruises, Paul Gauguin Cruises,

Silversea, Zegrahm, Hurtigruten,

Aurora Expeditions, Silversea

OceanWide Expeditions, Oneocean

Lindblad Expeditions, Seabourn,

Expeditions, Noble Caledonia, Holland America,

Noble Caledonia, Aqua Expeditions, Zegrahm,

Seabourn, Abercrombie & Kent,

Voyages of Discovery, Nomads of the Seas,

Aurora Expeditions, Gadventures, Quark

Star Clippers, Fred Olsen, Silversea, Rain Forest

Clockwise from top left: White-tailed sea eagle in northern Norway; Elephant seals may be slow and cumbersome but that can also be dangerous; Orcas roam the seas from the Polar regions to the beaches of Patagonia where they hunt seals – and the waters of Vancouver Sound and occasionally around the UK; Turtles are always an exciting sight in the clear waters of the Caribbean or Australia’s Great Barrier Reef.

Below right: Walk with rays in the Cayman Islands, or be awed by schools of hundreds of them in the Sea of Cortez.

Cruises

ADVENTURE & WILDLIFE WORLD OF CRUISING

The Arctic

UK Waters

Polar bear, narwhal, and beluga whale are the stars in the Arctic.

Svalbard, with its main island of Spitsbergen has Arctic foxes, while the Russian Arctic is beginning to open up to adventure cruising companies. Blue whales are found off Iceland’s coast and inland gyr falcons and harlequin ducks patrol the skies and rivers. Norway’s fiords have the majestic sea eagle with massive seabird colonies of puffins and little auks. Greenland, too is opening up with up to six species of whales in its waters and it has the largest wild population of musk oxen in the world.

The seabird colonies of the UK coast are some of the most spectacular in the world and more and more cruise companies are now offering round Britain voyages to see them. Literally tens of thousands of gannets can dive around you off St Kilda and The Bass Rock. St Kilda and the western Isles also have herds of wild sheep and goats whilst Basking Sharks can swim lazily under your zodiac off Staffa or Islay. Deer feeding on the seaweed at dusk, otters calling and Sea Eagles floating majestically alongside are frequent sites.

Dolphins and porpoises are common site around the Isles of Scilly and The Isle of Man.

Hurtigruten, Cruise North Expeditions, Zegrahm, OceanWide Expeditions,

Lindblad Expeditions, The Majestic Line,

Hapag Lloyd, Silversea, Lindblad Expeditions,

Hebridean, Zegrahm, Voyages of Discovery,

Noble Caledonia, Quark

Noble Caledonia, Swan Hellenic

Galapagos

The Caribbean

It is touted as the best wildlife experience anywhere, and many of the archipelago’s resident species cannot be found anywhere else on the planet. The giant tortoises, marine iguanas, penguins and blue-footed boobies, all of which are completely indifferent to visitors, justly confirm the Islands’ reputation. All of the islands are different and depending on what species you want to see you will need to your plan trip well in advance as some species come and go with the seasons over the year.

December to May is when the seas are at their calmest and the temperature warmest whilst the animals are most active in the summer months.

The Caribbean has a huge range of habitats from dry deciduous woodland to mountain cloud forest.

There’s amazing bird life such as parrots, pelicans and frigate birds but most people are drawn to the snorkeling and diving in magical places such as the Tobago Cays.

The coral life here is simply stunning and the chance to swim with turtles and the incredible shoals of fish numbering in their thousands is unforgettable.

Seabourn, Haugan Cruises, Lindblad Expeditions, Ecoventura, Celebrity Cruises,

Perhaps the ultimate wildlife experience here is interacting with the giant stingrays off Grand Cayman but now many islands including St Lucia offer wildlife hikes deep into the rain forests.

Best time to visit, November to April.

Zegrahm, Noble Caledonia, GAdventures, Silversea

Voyages of Discovery, Star Clippers, Royal Caribbean, Carnival, Costa, Princess, Nobel Caledonia

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FACTFILE

NEW SHIP

WORLD OF CRUISING

SILVER DISCOVERER 338 ft Length Cabins 62 Passenger decks 5 Passengers 128 Crew 96

Discovering the Kimberley in comfort Silversea’s newest expedition ship is the luxurious option for exploring the world’s great wildernesses.

By GREG BARBER

I

f you have already explored most of the known world by cruise ship, the next obvious step is to widen your horizons and take a look at what the unknown world has to offer.

But you still want to do it in comfort, not in one of those converted Russian icebreakers where the idea of luxury is an extra pillow and where haute cuisine means a tin of something off the top shelf in the pantry. Step forward Silversea Expeditions, who have added a third vessel to the fleet of three that complement the company’s five classic ships plying ultra-luxury waters. Launched in Singapore this spring, Silver Discoverer began its first season by cruising Australia’s remote and utterly spectacular Kimberley region.

I flew to join the ship in Broome for a week-long voyage along the coast to

Darwin. Silver Discoverer is not quite as sumptuous as Silversea’s brochures claim; the ship is not brand new but it has been given a multi-million pound facelift and conversion.

The majority of the cabins are 181 sq ft View Suites which come with a queen-sized bed that can be split into twins; dressing table, and compact, heavily-marbled shower room. Just nine of the passenger rooms have balconies; top of the range is the 408 sq ft Medallion Suite. The galley is overseen by executive chef Pia, and her top class dinners live up to Silversea’s ultra-luxury status.

The Discoverer Lounge provides a limited buffet selection at breakfast and lunch.

O

utside, by the small pool, is an unchanging menu of burgers and hot dogs at

lunch. In the evening, the pool deck plays host to Silversea’s trademark Hot Rocks dinner under the stars – steaks and fish that passengers cook for themselves on slabs of lava heated in a furnace to 400° C. It’s not exactly a luxury experience, however, sitting at picnic table with the wind threatening to snatch away the napkins.

Drinks from the bars – in the Explorer Lounge and by the pool - and wine with dinner are included in the fare.

There’s little in the way of conventional entertainment, although pianist Jorge takes his Bontempi keyboard to the buffet for afternoon tea and tickles the ivories on the grand piano in the Explorer Lounge before and after dinner.

W

hat the ship – and the passengers – really concentrate on are the destinations and Zodiac-borne expeditions that range from educational trips around the bay to all-day hikes and the chance to swim in a remote creek. Where mainstream cruise ships have a cruise director, Discoverer has an expedition leader who holds daily de-briefings to tell passengers about what they have seen and to set the scene for the next day’s events. The expedition staff also create entertainment – one compiled an amusing Candid Camera-style collection of pictures and video clips of the passengers; another presented a CSI Kimberley investigation into the mysterious deaths of some of the region’s less fortunate creatures.

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TOP 10 SHOPPING WORLD OF CRUISING

Best shopping in the Med Shopping is one of the great pleasures of travel, especially by cruise ship. That’s why the newest vessels devote so much valuable space to retail. But the real deals are best found ashore – beyond the seen-it-before duty-free outlets in cruise terminals. JO FOLEY reports on where to shop and what to buy at 10 top Mediterranean ports

01 ATHENS The main shopping areas are around Monastraki and Syntagna, with the former good for gift shops as well as leatherwear such as bags and jackets. Melissinos Art on Agias Theklas is one of the most famous sandal makers in the country. The flea market is also in this area, and many of the little bric a brac and antique shops are open throughout the week. The main boulevard, Ermou, is lined with designer names and is also where you can find the main department stores of Lampropulos and Fokas. Look out for travel-proof bottles or cans of delicious dark green olive oil.

02 BARCELONA In the heart of the Ramblas, La Boqueria is one of the best food markets in the world. No visit to the city is complete without a stop at the cavernous El Corte Ingles department store, for great clothes for men and women as well as accessories.

Household names such as Zara and Mango offer a wider choice than at home. Vincon on the Passeig de Gracia, the main shopping avenue, is a far better Habitat. Affordable too! Do not be tempted by the caged birds and puppies for sale on the Ramblas.

03 DUBROVNIK Find the best souvenirs in wood and ceramics in little stalls near the open-air market at Gundulicena Poljana in the old town. The market itself is only open in the mornings but

is wonderful to wander through with its mounds of fresh fruit, vegetables and flowers. Olive oils, truffles and works by local artists are found at Dubrovacka Kuca by St Dominic’s Tower, while nearby Magnolika is the place to go for contemporary arts and crafts.

04 ISTANBUL People tell you that shopping in Istanbul is legendary – and it is. If time is short, you only need to visit the Grand Bazaar (Kapali Carsi) a place of magic and mystery. This is one of the oldest and largest covered markets in the world with over 3,000 shops and 61 streets. It’s easy to get lost – but who cares as you wander down lanes of leatherwear, streets of tiny silver and gold shops, silks, shoes, caviar and tea. For young Turkish designers head for Nisantasi and if you are in town on a Sunday, visit Arasta Bazaar.

05 MARSEILLES Down at the Vieux Port you will find the market for all things Provencal - brightly coloured tableware, table linen, traditional pottery and swathes of dried lavender posies as well as jars of herbs. Everywhere you can find soap – the traditional Savon de Marseilles in every shade and fragrance from lemon to mimosa, rose to olive. There’s a daily market selling everything, a Wednesday market for organic produce, a garlic market and a flea market on every second Sunday of the month.

06 PALMA, Mallorca A great shopping city, but don’t miss a visit to the cathedral before hitting the retail opportunities. Leather is a great buy, and often a bargain – the best shoes, bags and belts are in a selection of small shops, stalls and boutiques around the Placa Major, while the Passeig des Born is the place to find glassware. The Phoenicians first made glass here centuries ago, so there is a strong tradition and great designs. Majorica pearls, made on the island, are some of the best simulated pearls you can find. If you have time, visit the factory outlet for greater bargains.

07 ROME Possibly the most fashion-conscious city in Europe. The via Condotti is designer heaven with all the great names. Cross to Trastevere for the funky young designers in fashion and home, while at Porta Portese you’ll find the Sunday flea market which is open from 8am. until noon.

Discount fashion outlets can be found around the Via del Corso – look for dell’Alta Moda on via de Gesu e Maria. While C.U.C.I.N.A on via Mario de Fiori has everything you will need for the kitchen.

08 TUNIS Souks are where you shop here, and you are expected to barter at most stalls and shops. If that makes you uncomfortable then go to Blvd Corniche in Ville Nouvelle, Sousse Medina where many of the shops display fixed prices. But it would be

TOP 10 SHOPPING WORLD OF CRUISING

01

04

a pity to miss out on the fun of bargaining, accompanied as it is by several tiny glasses of apple mint tea. Best buys are copper and brassware (lovely trays and jugs), leather slippers and bags, jelabas (great cover-ups when back on deck), perfumed oils and shishas.

08

06

10

09 VALLETTA The shopping starts the minute you are inside the City Gate – for there in front of you is a market selling everything from clothes to watches, computer games to slightly dodgy CDs. There is another open-air market on Merchant Street, which has lots of food as well as mounds of nougat, while on Sunday morning there is a flea market at the Gate.

Freedom Square is where to find the main shops as well as some cheap and cheerful, albeit stylish, boutiques, while the glass on sale at Mdina Glass makes for beautiful presents and souvenirs.

10 VENICE The little shops in and around St Mark’s Square and at the Rialto are great for glass souvenirs as well as silk scarves, leather wallets, purses and belts but to see the glass being made, head for the island of Murano and buy straight from the factory.

Alternatively, travel further across the Lagoon to the island of Burano for exquisite lace. Workmanship is prized in Venice which is why it is home to some of the most beautiful stationery shops.

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56

EDITORIAL PROMOTION

Food Heroes will make Britannia a feast of fun, and P&O Cruises plan much more Combining the excitement of cruising with the sophistication of a contemporary hotel, P&O Cruises’ Britannia is not just the biggest ship ever built exclusively for the British market – she’s also the most glamorous. Your first moments on board are sure to be truly memorable as the spectacular ‘starburst’ centrepiece of her atrium comes into view.

Part chandelier, part sculpture, it’s amazing. Inspired by the days when ships used stars to navigate, its gold reflective surfaces bounce light around the atrium.

A theatre with a full LED wall for a truly immersive experience, a seriously stylish spa, and a one million pound art collection are some of the other highlights to be discovered on board. High on the list of Britannia’s attractions will be the food – and the part played by five Food Heroes. P&O Cruises has called on the tasty talents of some of Britain’s leading chefs. Culinary mastermind Marco Pierre White has poured his passion and expertise into the ship’s classic European cuisine.

You’ll enjoy his delightful dishes in Britannia’s main restaurant on Gala evenings.

Then there is award-winning Master Pâtissier and baking star, Eric Lanlard. James Martin has something special up his sleeve too, in the shape of the all-new Cookery Club. This culinary classroom will see James and a circle of his celebrity chef friends passing on their expertise to small groups of passengers all eager to learn and taste the best. Many of the classes will reflect the ports of call, and passengers will be taken to local markets and vineyards to learn about the Mediterranean and Caribbean ingredients they can use to create dishes at home. Still hungry for more?

Well, on Britannia you can devour a delectable Crab Masala at Atul Kochhar’s Sindhu. And TV wine expert Olly Smith puts his tastebuds into action in The Glass House, where the perfect vintages will accompany the delicious fare on offer. Alongside Olly’s wine-tastings, Britannia will host gin-tastings, a selection of craft beers, artisan cheeses and charcuterie – all that is best about British food and drink. Familiar P&O Cruises’ favourites have not been forgotten, so regulars will no doubt find their way to the Crow’s Nest bar.

57

Main picture: The Food Hereos.

Clockwise, from top left: The Cookery Club with James Martin; Britannia; Starburst dominates the central atrium

P&O Cruises offers a seven-night cruise featuring Master Pâtissier Eric Lanlard. Departing May 23, 2015, the cruise sails to Guernsey, Spain and France from Southampton.

P&O Cruises offers an 11-night cruise featuring James Martin. Departing Sept 14, 2015, the cruise sails to Spain, Portugal and Gibraltar from Southampton.

To book, visit www.pocruises.com, call 0843 373 0111 or visit your local travel agent.

But there will also be The Studio – so-called because it will actually be used as a television studio and Ballroom dancing fans will be able to strut their stuff on the floor of the Crystal Room.

Britannia – with its 1,837 cabins accommodating 3,647 passengers comes to Southampton in the spring and there will be a sensational glittering launch party with a big name godmother to do the honours at the christening. Who is she? Well we can’t spoil the secret just yet, but you’ll find out soon enough.

The excitement may be building for Britannia, but we must not forget the rest of P&O Cruises’ fleet.

There’s the family-friendly Aurora, Azura, Oceana and Ventura, catering for between 1,874 and 3,100 passengers each and with free kids’ clubs, daily children’s tea and family-focussed shore excursions.

Then just for adults are the boutique-sized Adonia, carrying 710 passengers, the elegant Oriana, for 1,880, and the relaxing Arcadia, holding 2,094.

The ships are dedicated to your enjoyment, with countless options for relaxation, leisure, dining and pampering. All you have to do is smile.

From December, when Aurora returns from a £26 million dry-dock, the ships will start to look different, with a stunning Union Flag design emblazoned on their bows, and funnels re-painted in a striking blue.

With the biggest flag of all, and the two largest funnels, the mighty Britannia will be Britain’s biggest yet.

Long may she rule!

FUN IN PARADISE

With more than 5,000 islands, reefs and cays dotted around the Caribbean, you’ll get to experience a whole lot of Paradise! With 18 ships sailing the stunning blue waters, Carnival offers you plenty of choice for your next cruise, with beaches, shore adventures, isles and so much more. There is something for everyone in the Caribbean, with a warm welcome and fantastic hospitality wherever you go.

So get exploring!

7 DAY CARIBBEAN CRUISES FROM £319pp CALL RESERVATIONS ON: 0845 351 0556 OR GO ONLINE: WWW.CARNIVAL.CO.UK

TM

CRUISE CUISINE WORLD OF CRUISING

The power behind the throne in Pearl II’s kitchen Everyone knows the captain’s word is law on board ship but, say the well-fed passengers, it is executive chef George Streeter who steals everyone’s heart (and stomach). LESLEY BELLEW joined Saga Pearl II find out the secret behind George’s exceptional fine dining menus

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CRUISE CUISINE WORLD OF CRUISING

G

eorge Streeter is not just good with housekeeping money, he is a genius.

He would not dare skimp on what he and the Saga passengers consider ‘absolute-must’ British favourites and when Saga Pearl II loads at Southampton or Dover he is on the quayside to ensure every order is delivered.

Cadbury’s hot chocolate, HP sauce, Heinz tomato ketchup, Branston pickle and Tiptree jam arrive by the pallet-load and are always on his list.

George is a stickler for quality and personally checks all of the fresh produce. He said: “If the fruit and veg are not up to scratch I make sure we have replacements before we sail. It is so important to pack the storerooms and freezers carefully for the whole two weeks; it is no good accepting anything less than 100 per cent.

“If we are on a longer cruise we have to work with our agents to get more supplies at other ports. Some countries are better than others when it comes to reliable deliveries and loading so we pack in as much as we can. Obviously it would not be so easy or economical to buy British goods when you are halfway round the world. I tend to jump off ship to

buy regional produce whenever I can. I bought some fantastic fresh prawns in Norway at a fraction of the price I would have paid in the UK – so with the saving I intend to treat the passengers to some wolf fish – my favourite.”

Saga Pearl II offers two dining area options; the main Dining Room with waiter service which seats up to 320 and the self-service Verandah which caters for up to 170. Seating is open and there is one sitting.

G

eorge said: “Although there is a choice of dining style, the same meals are served in both areas. The menu does not differ - just because some people choose to eat in a more casual environment it does not mean they miss out on the quality.”

Saga chefs have the freedom to create menus around their destinations and enjoy plenty of flexibility to be inventive.

They do not have to keep to a two-week rolling menu, supplied by a head office, like many cruise ships that have to cater for thousands of passengers on one sailing. “That can be an easy job, just repeating menus, but boring for the cooks!” said George who loves to surprise his passengers with different menus.

“I’m good with my budget,” laughs George as we go shopping for wolf fish in Bergen.

The fish market is a glistening sea of produce next to the water’s edge, selling everything from whale meat to smoked cod.

“The Norwegians are real hunters,” says George, whose eyes light up like a boy in a sweet shop. He is a man on a mission and shiny, just-caught wolf fish catches his eye.

It is not a cheap option but George delights the stallholder by buying the whole fish.

“It may seem extravagant but I can make this go a long way and slice this to make about 90 portions,” said George. “It will go nicely served with lobster. The passengers are in for a treat.”

George still has some change in his pocket and at a fruit stall he picks out fresh strawberries and with his permanent winning smile politely asks for a better deal. Instead of taking the discount he opts for an extra two boxes of the sweet-smelling fruit. He stops to taste moose and reindeer salami at another stall. “The passengers will like to sample this,” he said and snaps up half a dozen of each, with a few jars of cloudberry jam for the

CRUISE CUISINE WORLD OF CRUISING

61

Clockwise from left: George Streeter buying strawberries in Bergen market; Prepping the wolf fish; Desert is being served; Fine dining on board Saga Pearl II; Passengers Steve Leavett and Erica Fielding tuck in to the lobster and wolf fish

evening’s Nordic gastronomic f east.

“Flexible, free-style cooking within a menu set every two weeks is so much more exciting and challenging,” said George as he strode back to the ship laden with the produce.

Within minutes of being back on board the wolf fish had been washed and preparation was under way. George oversees the filleting and leaves his assistant chef to slice the fish as he has instructed.

In the evening, before any meal goes out, George briefs his 40-strong team on how he would like to see the dishes presented. A ‘tester dish’ of each menu is plated up and he, alongside his assistant chef, discuss the meal and suggest perhaps a tweak to the ‘presentation’. George said: “My team know how I like dishes served. Mostly I only need to suggest a little more seasoning or a touch more sauce so everything is perfect.

“Once I did find celery, instead of rhubarb, had been used in the crumble. We all fell about laughing and quickly prepared a new batch so the passengers had the correct dish!” George also requires Maitre D’ Kirsten Olette’s team of waiters to appreciate each menu and briefs them to ensure they are able to talk authoritatively to guests about their

choices. Kirsten said: “When the dining room opens at 7pm, we can have 300 people to serve within about an hour. Everyone has to know exactly what they are doing and when the passengers ask about a dish the waiters can answer with confidence.

“That is what our passengers enjoy, especially when George creates themed menus like this Nordic Feast.”

P

assengers Bryan and Bridget Pearson, of Grassington, in Yorkshire, say they are ‘true fans’ of George’s cooking. Bryan said: “The restaurant offers five-star dining every night. We just can’t wait to see the menu every evening.

“We loved the Scottish night - the fried Mars Bars were brilliant.

“As far as my wife and I are concerned, George is the power behind the throne on this ship!”

It was no surprise that passengers wolfed down the special fish dish.

Steve Leavett and Erica Fielding, of Carmarthenshire, both love the adventure side of cruising. Steve said: “The cuisine on this ship is exceptional. Erica said: “The Norwegian menu was such a treat.

It is so good to try new dishes and

the wolf fish and lobster is not something we had tried before.

It was superb, beautifully presented and it tasted even better than it looked.”

Antiques Roadshow expert Clive Stewart-Lockhart added: “I have sailed with several cruise lines but George is the only chef I know who regularly works the floor. He really uses his shoe leather and you always see him in the dining room chatting to guests, asking them if their meal is ok. The guests love talking to him and always ask him for cooking tips! He is exceptional.

I

t’s the small touches, too, that do not go unmissed by passengers. Bridget Pearson said: “In the mornings I am hooked on the homemade yoghurt and muesli. It tastes so different from home.” George was pleased to hear it. He had just invested in the yoghurt-making machine to provide ‘absolutely fresh’ yoghurt every day.

He said: “It does taste so fantastic and it saves all that recycling of pots.

Waste disposal costs can be huge so every bit helps.”

The bosses are pleased and the passengers keep returning - it seems George not only sails on water, he walks on it!

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CRUISE RECIPE

WORLD OF CRUISING

Baked Norwegian fish with an aquavit hollandaise sauce on wilted spinach and crushed potatoes withwild mushrooms George Streeter was able to use a wolf fish bought fresh from the market in Bergen. He says the recipe would work just as well with haddock or turbot

INGREDIENTS Serves 4 4 pieces of fresh fish fillet ¼ lemon wedge Sunflower oil Fresh dill Salt and freshly milled black pepper 8 handfuls of fresh spinach 1 small onion chopped 2 tbsp. olive oil CRUSHED POTATOES WITH WILD MUSHROOMS 4 medium potatoes Cream Salt and pepper 50g fresh mixed wild mushrooms sliced 1 tbsp. butter Chives HOLLANDAISE SAUCE 3 tbsp. white wine vinegar 7 black peppercorns 1 onion slice 1 bay leaf 3 medium egg yolks 150g unsalted butter cut in pieces (at room temperature) 2 tbsp. cream Aquavit, lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste

METHOD Marinate the fish with the lemon, dill, oil and seasoning. Boil the potatoes until soft, crush lightly so they still have texture, add the cream and butter.

Make the Hollandaise sauce: Put the vinegar into a small pan with the peppercorns, onion and bay leaf. Bring to the boil and reduce to 1 tbsp. liquid. Put the egg yolks into a heatproof bowl with 15g butter and a pinch of salt, beat until well-combined, then strain in the reduced vinegar. Put the bowl over a pan of barely simmering water and whisk for 3-4 minutes until the mixture is pale and beginning to thicken.

Beat in the remaining butter, a piece at a time, until mixture begins to thicken and emulsify. Ensure each addition of butter incorporates before adding the next. Whisk in the cream, season and at the last minute add the aquavit to taste, keep warm.

Season, then sauté the mushrooms until just cooked and gently fold into the potatoes, keep hot.

Put the fish on a baking tray and cook for 5-8 mins in a hot oven (200° C, gas mark 6).

While the fish is in the oven sauté the onion, add the spinach and season.

Serve.

Aquavit Aquavit is a Scandinavian liqueur and its name derives from the Latin aqua vitae, water of life. Popular since the 15th century, its distinctive flavour comes from herbs and spices which usually include caraway or dill.

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FAMILY CRUISING WORLD OF CRUISING

A Young Person’s Guide to The Opera – and the rest of the MSC Fleet

By DANIELLE FEAR This year has been filled with major announcements from MSC Cruises, the Italian operated line that offers passengers a chance to experience the “Med way of life”. First came the news that the Lirica-class ships were to be stretched and refurbished, and then followed information of four new build vessels, two of which are a design unlike any other at sea.

MSC currently operates a fleet of 12 ships, ranging in capacity from 1,712 to 3,959, but the line’s new vessels will have a maximum capacity of 5,700, putting them in line with some of the world’s other mega-ships including Royal Caribbean International’s Oasis and Allure of the Seas. MSC’s aim is to double its fleet capacity by 2022 with four new builds on the way,

options for two more and the upgrading of the Lirica-class vessels.

Just as significantly, the line hopes to more than treble the number of UK passengers – from 60,000 this year to 200,000 in 2017, by which time it hopes to have at least one ship sailing from British ports again.

Central to the growth plan will be the launch of dedicated weekly British Airways charter flights to Venice and Genoa in 2015, delivering passengers to six MSC Cruises ships operating out of those ports next summer.

MSC executive director UK and Ireland executive director Giles Hawke said: “We intend to become a significant player in the UK cruise market in readiness for our new ships beyond 2017. That means making it easy for people to

experience a cruise with us.

“We are also increasing our flying commitment from the UK for our Dubai winter programme and adding flight capacity to the Caribbean.”

The renaissance programme has been handed to Fincantieri in Italy and will see MSC Lirica, MSC Armonia, MSC Sinfonia and MSC Opera stretched with the addition of up to 200 new cabins per ship, a spray park, which will feature water cannons and a river of water, and the expansion of the vessels’ shopping areas. There will also be additional crew cabins added during the upgrades and collectively the ships will spend 38-weeks in dry-dock at a cost of €200 million.

I took to the seas on Opera last August for an 11-night Atlantic

FAMILY CRUISING WORLD OF CRUISING

Coast voyage and I have been craving a fix of Italian-style cruising ever since.

Although the experience is similar in some ways to Costa Cruises - they are both Italian after all - MSC offers what I can only describe as a far more tasteful cruising experience and with a style that differs greatly from the likes of P&O Cruises, Royal Caribbean and Celebrity Cruises which all sail from the UK. There was a varied mix of nationalities something I had been slightly concerned about before I embarked.

compared to other lines was that they embarked new passengers in several ports on the itinerary, something the majority of other lines don’t tend to do. I boarded MSC Opera in Southampton and visited Ijmuiden (Amsterdam), St Peter Port, Bilbao, Vigo, Lisbon and Le Havre before returning to Southampton for disembarkation.

Passengers joined and left the ship in Ijmuiden, Vigo, Lisbon and Le Havre. I had experienced this process briefly on MSC Magnifica during a three-day cruise to Hamburg earlier in the year but the experience of the process on Opera was far more intense.

It took some getting used to the fact that cases were being left outside cabin doors every evening, and each morning would see new people arriving to begin their holidays.

MSC Opera is very much a family-friendly ship, with two good-sized swimming pools, a kids’ club that is perfectly located straight off the Lido Deck (and right next to the Gelato Bar, surprisingly) and a good selection of activities both inside and out on the open decks.

From left: MSC Opera’s Le Piscine on Deck 11; MSC Opera in Cape Town; the ship’s Aroma coffee bar

It turned out to be irrelevant in the grand scheme of things and I enjoyed the diversity.

The multi-lingual muster drill took longer than it usually does on a ship filled with mostly Brits or Americans, but we got there in the end.

MSC offer a notable selection of drinks packages and at reasonable prices, something that some lines like P&O Cruises don’t offer at all; they can still be very expensive with those that do, such as Celebrity Cruises. I purchased the Allegrissimo package which worked out at roughly £20 per-day and turned out to be worth every penny! It also included a 15 per cent service charge, which is added to all onboard purchases. The biggest difference I noted with MSC

Dining is very much a Mediterranean affair, especially at Il Patio, the ship’s round-the-clock buffet option. For course-by-course waiter service the ship offers La Caravella and L’Approdo restaurants and lunch-time snacks can be found in Le Vele Cafeteria.

The buffet selection was extensive and I found myself trying a selection of new and interesting dishes throughout the cruise, especially at lunch time. There are eight bars, a casino, which was only ever empty when we were in port, shopping area, nightclub and a 713-seat theatre which is the main venue for the evening’s entertainment.

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The two new ships code-named Project Seaside will be the largest ever built by Italy’s Fincantieri shipyards. Scheduled for delivery in November 2017 and May 2018, they will cost €700 million (£562 million) each.

The 154,000-ton floating resorts will accommodate up to 5,300 passengers in 2,070 cabins, 73.5 per cent of which will offer a balcony - 1,354 balcony cabins, 124 suites and 6 ‘duplex’ cabins. Each vessel will be crewed by a team of 1,413.

The Seaside prototype will feature a sea-level promenade at the stern (though it won’t actually be lapped by the waves) with a large selection of outdoor bars, shops and restaurants and an outdoor swimming pool and sunbathing area to the aft. This additional space is facilitated by the ships extra-wide beam (41m) and will be shielded to a degree by wind deflectors, allowing passengers to enjoy the area without feeling like they are battling against the elements.

The ships’ width also allows for large interior public spaces covering 43,500 square feet.

STX France has the contract to build the line’s other two newbuilds, which were announced in March, with the option for two more at a later date. Due for delivery in 2017 and 2019, they will each have 2,250 cabins, which will accommodate 5,700 passengers, plus 1,536 crew.

Features include a large amusement park connected to an outdoor water park, as well as a two-deck inside promenade. MSC also promises an extended MSC Yacht Club, the line’s signature premioum class area that is effectively a gated first class community.

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SOCIAL MEDIA

WORLD OF CRUISING

FROM PAGE 52 Discovering the Kimberley in comfort

Highlighting the World of Cruising’s social media activity – with our blogs at Time Spent At Sea and Adventure Cruising, our busy Twitter account, and of course the World of Cruising website.

The World of Cruising blog is one of the busiest cruise blogs on the internet, updated several times every day.

It’s viewed by more than 15,000 readers a month and that number is rising all the time.

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ach day also brought an enriching lecture on an aspect of the Kimberley’s history, geology, or wildlife – several of them presented by expedition leader Mick Fogg.

Silversea also partners with the Royal Geographical Society in order to ensure passengers are provided with the very best scientific and historical information available.

Given the potential free publicity for envious friends and family who would be subjected to the voyage’s souvenir DVD once passengers returned home, the US$150 price tag seemed rather excessive.

Almost everything else on the trip was included in the fare – drinks, tips, and most excursions. Even a spectacular flightseeing tour over the famed Bungle Bungles was complimentary, and there was an alternative excursion along the River Ord for those who preferred not to fly. Only an optional helicopter trip to the Mitchell Falls came at an extra cost.

WAY TO GO After its introductory season in the Kimberley, Discoverer headed north to Alaska and a number of voyages to Russia’s remote and mysterious far east. It will be back in the southern hemisphere by November for two months of cruising in the New Zealand sub-Antarctic region, and then returns to the Kimberley for five cruises in April and May. Prices for a 10-day cruise from Broome to Darwin on April 9, 2015, start at £6,550 per person based on double occupancy of an Explorer Suite. Air travel is extra. Silversea can book return flights with Malaysian Airlines from London Heathrow to Darwin via Kuala Lumpur from £719. www.silversea.com 0844 251 0837

TIMESPENTATSEA.BLOGSPOT.COM

Saga brings destinations to life for new-to-cruise passengers First-time cruise passengers looking for travel inspiration or fine detail on destinations can now visit Saga explorer TV. Footage from the Norwegian fjords and the Northern Lights, the Baltic, the Canary Islands, the Atlantic Isles and the Mediterranean can be found at sagaexplorer.com. The videos focus on amazing ports of call as well as offering insider tips and travel advice for those planning their first cruise.

WWW.SAGAEXPLORER.COM

Seabourn refurbishing its 3 Odyssey-class ships Seabourn is refurbishing its three Odyssey-class ships to each include four new Penthouse Spa Suites.

Guests can now enjoy this new luxury accommodation on board Seabourn Odyssey following installation on Seabourn Quest in autumn 2013; Seabourn Sojourn will be the last of the trio to be fitted with the new suites in spring 2015. Penthouse Spa Suite guests will enjoy unlimited access to the Serene Area of the spa and the services of a spa concierge throughout the voyage, as well as special spa amenities and features in the suite and its large marble bathroom.

Hurtigruten – and the mozzies – welcome us to Greenland Welcome to Greenland care of Hurtigruten and The MS Fram and this World of Cruising magazine blog.

Our trip started with a four hour flight from Copenhagen but Hurtigruten had chartered the whole plane so 170 of us nestled comfortably in a space normally full with 350. A visit to Greenland starts an hour before you land, flying over glaciers and mountain peaks emerging like shark’s teeth from the ice cap so get a window seat if you can!

TWITTER It’s easier than ever to stay in touch with World of Cruising magazine while you’re waiting for the next issue.

Just go to www.twitter.com and follow @WorldOfCruising

@CaptGreybeard Forget ice sculptures. They should have made a Leaning Tower of Pizza in Alfredo’s, the biggest pizzeria at sea. #thecruiseship @chrispitchford1 Brand new Pinnacle Class ship coming 2016 from @HALcruises @WorldofCruising #cruise still mid size #travel @CaptGreybeard Sailing, we’re not sailing: winds too high to let @SeabournCruise Quest leave berth on River Neva, captain announces (at sail away party)

LETTERS

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UK’S LEADING PROVIDERS OF cruise port transportation Ports Direct are the UK’s market leader in cruise transportation, providing cruise agents and cruise passengers a range of professional cruise transfer options

Cruising for Single Travellers

By ALAN FAIRFAX of Silver Travel Advisor.

As cruising becomes more popular, so is the rise in solo travellers wishing to indulge, and who can blame them? See so many countries and places, and only unpack once! It is estimated that up to 20% of cruise travellers are, for one reason or another, going solo and the higher proportion are female. One of the problems these travellers have faced in the past is the dreaded ‘single supplement’ which can be as high as 100% (and sometimes even more) making the cost of a cruise prohibitive. The reason given by the cruise lines is that solo travellers are occupying twin berth cabins thus the company is losing a fare. How much consideration has been given to the fact they are saving on the second person’s food and laundry etc. is not clear. All this is changing as cruise lines realise the potential of the solo traveller. Many new ships are including single cabins in the build specification including P&O Cruises’ Azura with 18 of these. Ships already in service are having these cabins added when dry docked for major refits. Cunard’s Queen Elizabeth has recently had 9 single occupancy cabins added and P&O’s Ventura last year added 18.

There are companies that have become popular with the solo traveller as they specialise in getting the best deals for them. Solos Holidays is one who specialise in this growing market and who can

arrange for you to meet other like-minded travellers on board thus enhancing the enjoyment. Iglu Cruises could be another place to investigate cruises for the solo traveller as they show all the ‘No Single Supplement’ cruises in one place enabling the customer to view availability and itineraries at a glance.

Fred Olsen is currently showing cruises on their website where there is either a low single supplement or none at all. P&O Cruises offer single cabins on most of their ships whilst Arcadia even has single balcony grade cabins available. MSC, NCL, Cruise and Maritime, Compagnie du Ponant and Holland America Line, to name but a few, often advertise no single or low supplement on their fleets of cruise liners. More and more cruise lines are trying to attract the single traveller on board with dance hosts, singles meetings, special dining experiences, excursions and other on board activities so that anyone travelling alone will not feel alone. If you are a solo traveller, check the various cruise agents, weekend papers, speak with the cruise lines and don’t be afraid to ask for a good deal. It will probably be the best holiday you have ever had.

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Telephone 0843 0843 003

LETTER TO THE EDITOR Dear WoC I was thinking of booking a cruise to witness the total eclipse of the sun next March. I have seen a number of ships will be off the Faroe Islands for the event.

My main concern is that while the region is theoretically one of the best places to see the eclipse, weather conditions are more than likely to be unfavourable.

I checked out one climate website which reported that skies over the Faroes were “clear or mostly clear” for only four per cent of the time in March – hardly conducive to a guaranteed sighting of an eclipse.

Will the cruise lines sending their ships to the eclipse be offering refunds?

William David, Preston The Editor writes: I hope customers booking cruises to see next year’s total eclipse have done so with their eyes wide open.

There is no doubt the voyages have proved popular, selling out very quickly. But the operators can make no guarantee that passengers will actually see the eclipse. Nor do they plan to offer refunds or money back to anyone who is disappointed on that account.

Fred Olsen said “We cannot guarantee the weather conditions on any of our cruises,” while Cruise & Maritime Voyages held out the hope that if passengers missed the eclipse, they might at least get lucky with the Northern Lights. Although that’s not guaranteed either.

Send your letters for publication to john.honeywell@worldofcruisingmagazine.com

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WHERE NEXT

WORLD OF CRUISING

By ANTHONY NICHOLAS

WHERE NEXT

WORLD OF CRUISING

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Clockwise from left: Cliff divers leap from the 50-ft platform at La Clavadista, Mazatlan; Cafe life on the Centro Historico; Mazatlan’s seaside promenade.

seductive lilt of merengue. Las Labradas is a unique, open air museum that showcases fantastic displays of fifteen hundred year old carved stone, along the broad sweep of San Ignacio beach, some forty five minutes’ north of the main sprawl of the city.

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fter several years on life support as a cruising destination, the Mexican Riviera is finally on the cusp of a comeback. Passenger numbers sailing out of out Los Angeles are climbing nicely again and, with the addition from November of the Carnival Miracle on year-round cruises to the highlights of Mexico, things are looking brighter at last.

Main beneficiary of this resurgent tide of interest is Mazatlan. Once known as ‘Mad Maz’ in the days of spring break holidays in the noughties, the port was dropped from almost every Mexican itinerary after an unsettling rise in tourist violence and robbery. Make no mistake, the Mexican Tourist Board has had to work very hard to get the cruise lines back and, as of now, the jury is still out.

It’s not just shopkeepers, restaurants and bars that welcome the return of cruise passengers. The young macho men who earn their living from a

little cliff-diving – nowhere near as spectacular as Acapulco but thrilling nevertheless – now have more tips being dropped into their open palms. The city itself enjoys a beautiful and dramatic stance; set against the smoky blue backdrop of the Sierra Madre mountains. The long waterfront promenade is sprinkled with outdoor bars, cafes and restaurants that serve up the local seafood, together with tacos and burritos, with a side order of fabulous Pacific sunsets each night.

o, what to see? Mazatlan is a brash, breezy seaside resort, where the largest boardwalk in Latin America runs parallel to some eleven miles of stunning Pacific beach. Like nearby resorts such as Cabo San Lucas, Mazatlan is a magnet for lovers of deep sea fishing and golf aficionados.

Mazatlan is a city that lends itself simply to casual strolling. The city centre, or Centro Historico, is chock full of restored shops and houses in a forties style, suffused with the

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Mazatlan celebrates Carnival each February along with the rest of Mexico. But one of the biggest calendar events here is the nationally commemorated ‘Day of the Dead’. Usually celebrated every November 2nd, the Day of the Dead is the equivalent of our own Halloween, and somewhat akin to Memorial Day in the USA. It’s a big deal; the day when the veil between life and death is traditionally thought to be at its thinnest, and the locals celebrate it accordingly.

Unlike here in the UK, graveyards in Mexico are not maintained by local authorities, and their general upkeep is the responsibility of individuals. Hence the Day of the Dead is the time when graves of long gone ancestors are usually tended, cleaned and decorated by their families. It is also normal for candles to be lit, and offerings of food- mainly favourites of the deceased- are placed on and around the graves themselves. Families gather to talk, reminisce and sing songs around these makeshift altars.

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his being Mexico, alcohol is also left out here for the returning spirits to slake their thirst, one doubtless exacerbated by the offerings of salt- the spice of life- that is also seen as a staple of the anniversary.

The Day of the Dead is, of course, as much a celebration of life as it is an occasion to mourn and remember.

As for Mazatlan, let’s hope it is now out of intensive care.

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WORLD OF SPAS Up on the Roof There was a time when spas were hidden away in the basements of buildings and hotels – but not any more. Now they are more likely to be on the roof, along with the pool. The newest offering is yoga on the roof for guests at New York’s James Hotel. There are complimentary classes at 8 a.m. every Thursday (until the weather changes). A great way to start your day of sightseeing, shopping or meetings. If you stay at their Chicago hotel there’s a city running tour on offer – 5kms, with a guide of course More information www.jameshotels.com

Fitness garden for Symphony An outdoor fitness garden is to be installed on the ultra-luxury cruise ship Crystal Symphony during a $20 million dry-dock upgrade this autumn.

Guests will be able to undertake a 25-minute circuit-training regime on a collection of exercise equipment. The ship’s fitness centre will be re-equipped

by Olympic Games supplier Technogym and the Crystal Spa is among areas of the vessel which will have new décor. www.crystalcruises.co.uk

Night Time Four Seasons Landaa Giraavaru in the Maldives has ways of helping you sleep with the introduction of their new Om Supti Ritual, which promises to lull body and mind to relax and pave the way for a great night’s sleep. In a dedicated night spa location in a jungle clearing with a hanging bed shielded by tropical foliage, the ritual begins.

First seven oils, one for each chakra are massaged into the spine, which is followed by a facial treatment and then a soak in a carved stone bath perfumed with Himalayan salts, sandalwood and jasmine, all designed to reduce the levels of stress and relax both body and mind. The zzzzs are guaranteed to follow… www.fourseasons.com/maldives

The sweet little mysteries of life Are you getting as confused as I am with different daily reports on what is good to eat and what isn’t, which is the best way to lose weight and what doesn’t work, and mostly how we’ve all been getting it wrong throughout the decades and who is to blame?

Sugar is currently in the firing line as the main culprit, and perhaps it is, because there tends to be sugar in everything from tomato ketchup to yoghurt, foodstuffs we never associated with the white stuff. And while we understand its place in fizzy drinks, ice creams and biscuits what’s it doing in a packet of crisps or a bowl of soup?

What it all means is that we should be a little more alert about what we are consuming and read the ingredients on packets and tins more closely. But with fat apparently now being one of the good guys again, and carbs being on the careful list, all we really need to remember is a little of what you fancy is best.

It also means that you won’t have to change your mind or your diet tomorrow when a new report comes out telling you what else is wrong.

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WORLD OF SPAS

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WORLD OF CRUISING

Family Favourites Every parent knows that if the kids are enjoying themselves, then life is easier – especially on holiday.

JO FOLEY reports on resorts with spas which are very family friendly.

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ored teenagers, the terrible twos and the whinging in-betweeners can mar any time off for stressed out mums and beleaguered dads – which are why, in so many ways cruises can be ideal for families. However do check that your age group is catered for before you go, as well as your need for a spa! For instance P&O’s Ventura caters for every age group, in separate ways from two to 17 plus there’s the Oasis Spa, while Cunard offers care for the littlest one-year olds as well as fully comprehensive spas. Other lines offer everything from PlayStation marathons to miniature golf and bowling alleys, while others have semi-educational eco and marine courses, DJ and talent contests and Disney offers courses on film-making.

All of which gives you a chance to lie back and enjoy a wrap or a massage.

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n land there is a similar choice with endless offerings including special menus and baby-sitting services. The Forte Village in Sardinia is renowned for its sports offerings with several wellknown professional sporting icons taking part in the various tuition offerings from football to golf, netball and rugby, with a hugely popular Chelsea Football academy. There is always a great turnout for friendlies between the staff and guests, as some of soccer’s big names holiday at the Village too! As for the spa with its 20 treatment rooms and 40 therapists it is one of the best in the Med. Its highlight are the five saline dense thalassotherapy pools set in a tropical garden, you slide into each one in turn with temperatures ranging from 38° C to 20° C.They are both relaxing and healing – which is why they are popular with damaged sportsmen such as jockeys and footballers who visit them accompanied by their physios. www.fortevillageresort.com

WORLD OF SPAS WORLD OF CRUISING

Clockwise from left: Spice Island Beach Resort in Grenada; The Forte Village in Sardinia; Calcot Manor in Tetbury

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or something a little closer to home head for Calcot Manor just outside Prince Charles’ home town of Tetbury in the Cotswolds. Dating back to the 14th century this manor has, apart from the main building complete with a serious restaurant, family rooms, cottages in the old stables which are ideal for families, a spa in its own cottage set back from the rest, a Playzone for younger children and the Mez complete with computers, Xbox, and a cinema for the older ones. It has its own pub, the Gumstool Inn for more informal meals – add an outdoor pool, tennis courts and over 200 acres of Cotswold meadowland. Enough to keep everyone happy. The spa, has an outdoor hot tub and a crèche along with a choice of beauty and body treatments. There are special day, half day and weekend programmes while the hotel offers special programmes for half terms, so ideal for short breaks. www.calcotspa.co.uk

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earching for the exotic? Then Spice Island Beach Resort in Grenada is the answer.

Bordered by one of the best beaches on the island, a long luxurious ribbon of golden sand, the resort not only has the Nutmeg Pod, which caters for 3-12 years olds throughout the day plus baby-sitting services at night, it also has family activities such as tennis, snorkelling, rainforest tours and kayaking plus a super-luxury Janissa Spa. Here, while the rest of the family are occupied, or merely playing in the warm sea, Mum can wallow in treatment cabins enjoying sea mud wraps, aromatherapy massage or a simple pedicure. After which the family re-groups for fun in the sun. www.spiceislandbeachresort.com

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WORLD OF SPAS

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WORLD OF CRUISING

From high tech and the latest research to age old healing traditions, Jo Foley reports

Super Sonic Everything looks and settles better on clean skin…and one of the best ways to ensure yours is spotless is by using Clinique’s new Sonic System Purifying Cleansing Brush. Developed by a dermatologist and using the finest Swiss engineering it is designed to get into every nook, cranny, (wrinkle), or curve of the face and gently clean and exfoliate. Use twice a day and say goodbye to dirt, oil and impurities. Costs £67.15 from major Clinique stockists.

Colouring pencils

Base Line Finding the perfect foundation can be a lifetime’s search, and now with an even wider choice – powder, cream, foam, liquid, mousse – it’s even more difficult. Stop right there and check out Oxygenetix Breathable Foundation.

Developed to heal and cover scars, burns, defects etc….it provides the lightest coverage imaginable. It may feel thick as you smooth it on, but it glides lightly over face and neck like a second skin. Its super-charged oxygen complex is great for ageing skin too. www.oxygenetix.com £45 from www.effortlessskin.com

High Octane The sun-baked landscape of the Med has attracted sailors, visitors, artists and sensualists for centuries with its heady scent of pines, wild herbs and the sea. Add a hint of French lavender to a fusion of Italian lemons, myrtle and basil and you have the summer fragrance Costa Azzura just launched by Tom Ford. £110 from major department stores

We’ve been using pencils since before we went to school – that’s how easy they are, and that’s how easy they are as make-up tools. Best of all they are easy and light to carry – especially when travelling – and take up little space in make-up bags.

Be they fat or thin their uses are great for eyes and lips, now welcome the latest addition Chubby Stick Cheek Colour Balm – to add shade and definition just slick and blend. In four shades – rhubarb, apple, peony and rosy: £22 from Clinique stockists

CLIA VIEW

WORLD OF CRUISING

ANDY HARMER is the UK and Ireland director of the Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA) which represents the cruise industry. For more information on cruise holidays, visit CLIA’s Discover Cruises website www.discovercruises.co.uk

My favourite things A cruise can immerse you in destinations, and unlike most land-based holidays, can take you to many different places in just one trip. ANDY HARMER is impressed One of the best parts of my job is that I get to experience cruise ships fairly regularly and I never fail to be impressed at the level of investment and innovation that companies put into ships.

The cruise lines are continually coming up with new and imaginative ways to make holidays a memorable experience – from the wide choice of dining experiences, to incredible evening entertainment, luxurious spas and tailor-made fitness programmes, wonderful cabins and recreation facilities unheard of just a few years ago.

It speaks volumes about how the cruise experience has evolved that we now take for granted the chance to do extraordinary things on ships – such as visiting a planetarium, ice skating, rock climbing up the ship’s funnel, zip wiring, bowling, watching the latest films in a 4D cinema and much more besides.

One of the best bits of a cruise hasn’t changed, though – and that’s the way you can immerse yourself in a destination,

particularly if it’s one that’s new to you. And unlike most land-based holidays, taking a cruise means you to visit many different destinations in just one trip. I love taking a cruise in Europe as it provides such a variety of experiences – a chance to enjoy magnificent cities with their rich history and culture, alternatively there are many stunning beaches.

A cruise offers an unbeatable combination of experiences whether you’re taking an ocean or river cruise holiday and as Brits, we’re very fortunate to have this all on our doorstep.

North America is another favourite destination of mine as it offers such a vast array of landscapes. From iconic landmarks such as New York and Hollywood, to the more remote, picturesque locations such as Alaska and Hawaii, you’re never bored!

What works so well in both Europe and North America is the way in which the cities, towns, the countryside and many attractions are all easy accessible when taking a cruise. Take the Baltic for example, where the main

attractions of many of its best known cities – such as Stockholm, Helsinki, and Oslo – are an easy stroll from its cruise ports. There are also opportunities to say overnight in some ports including St Petersburg and Venice and it’s great to see these cities at night.

Asia and Australia could be described as purpose built for cruise holidays. These are certain regions that Brits are often less familiar with, and so travelling with the knowledgeable guides and other experts that work with the cruise lines makes a trip that much more rewarding.

And the scenery from a cruise ship is something quite special.

My favourite, and a view I will never tire of, is sailing into Sydney Harbour with the iconic Opera House and Harbour Bridge. The magnificent scenery on a Yangtze River cruise is spectacular too, particularly through the Three Gorges area and I loved the remoteness and interaction with marine life in the Kimberly region of Western Australia.

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CAPTAIN GREYBEARD WORLD OF CRUISING

Vorsprung Dirk Technik wins the day Did you see ITV’s The Cruise Ship documentary series this summer?

Did it encourage you to book a cruise, or did it put you off a holiday at sea for ever?

The show has raised mixed feelings among cruising aficionados and there are many regular passengers who say the antics on screen would have put them off cruising if they didn’t already know better.

Princess Cruises took a gamble when they signed up to allow a camera crew on board Royal Princess. They had no control over the finished product, but they were prepared to take the risk to gain maximum publicity.

In these days of sensationalised and semi-scripted “reality” shows, no TV producer is going to be satisfied with a row of happy faces enjoying a good time in the Caribbean sunshine. They want a freak show with a collection of some of the odder passengers and the most attention-seeking members of crew.

So we were treated to a singularly strange vet from the north of England who was obsessed with the lack of mushrooms on her plate, and a fame-hungry chef who managed to get lost on a resort’s single road and couldn’t sing karaoke for all the salt caramel toffee in America.

The most important man on the ship, Captain Tony Draper, was relegated to a walk-on cameo role during formal night, while the film crew whipped up the tension by suggesting the laundry room was about to burst at the seams.

Fortunately for the saner viewer, there were two crewmembers at least who kept a cool head throughout. Cruise director Sam Hawker-Thomas was a bit of a Welsh wonder, while hotel manager Dirk Brand made sure everything on board ran with Teutonic efficiency. Vorsprung Dirk Technik you might say.

This was never going to be a rivet-counting documentary for a late-night slot on BBC4. The Cruise Ship was prime time entertainment, filling the Friday night gap between two episodes of Coronation Street.

As such, it was a success, attracting an average of more than three million viewers a week, and with its highest ratings for the fourth and final show.

It won’t have deterred other cruise lines from trying to find a way to get their product featured on television.

My money would be on an episode of Masterchef featuring the contestants cooking in a cruise ship galley – perhaps in competition on two different ships.

CAPTAIN GREYBEARD WORLD OF CRUISING

Another ship on the way for Saga?

There were two major events for Saga this summer. First, the company was finally floated on the Stock Exchange, giving small investors like me an opportunity to lose money as the shares fell from their original offer price.

Second, the company’s cruise arm announced a return to selling holidays on other operators’ ships, as well as its own Saga Sapphire and Saga Pearl II. Fred Olsen, MSC, Celebrity and Azamara Club Cruises now feature in Saga’s doorstep-busting brochures.

The move led me to conclude that the over-50s specialist had finally given up on plans to expand its own fleet and that after years of hints and almost-there announcements, any hopes of a Saga newbuild were just a mirage. Not so, I was assured by Paul Green, Saga’s director of communications. “We are down to two ships, and they are very fully booked. There is a strong demand for the Saga style of elegant cruising. It is true to say we are looking at what other vessels might be out there,” he said, adding that the stock market float released finance for investment and growth.

Don’t rule out the possibility of a newbuild, either.

“There is plenty of yard capacity available to build the size of ship we would be looking for, which could be in the range of 800-1,100 passengers,” said Green. One ship which would have made an ideal addition to Saga’s fleet is the 20,600-ton Astor, which I visited this summer at Tilbury Docks. If it looked familiar, that’s because it is the sister ship of Saga Pearl II, the former Astoria; Astor is identical in many ways but 40 feet longer. Originally built in 1987, Astor received a £10 million makeover in 2010 and appears to be in excellent condition. But its chances of sailing alongside SP II are slim as it has been acquired by Cruise & Maritime Voyages. The ship operates a service to Australia in the winter, while during the summer months it carries German passengers around Europe.

What other vessels would be suitable contenders for Saga acquisitions? If you have any suggestions, let me know.

@CaptGreybeard

77

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