E DIN WITSH u
spring 2022
Note From the Editor
Alex Castroverde Editor In Chief
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CONTENTS 4
Library Luxuries: Mann Café
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Dear Becker
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Gimme! Some of That!
16
I Love Okies
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An Ode to Libe’s Oatmeal Cookie
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How I Learned to Love Dining Hall Food at Risley
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Green Dragon: The Best Grounds Undergound
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Food Pho Thought at Terrace
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God of Zoup: Temple of Zeus
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Crossings Cafe: A Sunday Morning Ritual
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December at the Dairy Bar
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Mac’s: A Slice of the Statler’s Cafe
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Don’t Speak to Me Until I’ve Had My Nasty Fries
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The Morrison Awards
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Franny’s: Cornell’s Hidden Pick-Me-Up
Establishment: The Thrill of Dining in a Student-Managed Restaurant
Designed by Ashley Jian, Chayil Hyland, Hannah Shelfer, Helen Sturman, Kwan Asadathorn, Jacqueline Woo, Jennifer Huang, Prance Thongyai Na Ayudhaya Edited by Carina Lin, Caroline Sun, Effat Rahman, Garrett Emmons, Grace Wilkey, Laura Gries, Priya Pradhan, Sarah Austin, Sydney Wan, Tyler Fouch Cover Photo by Emily Lam 3
LIBRARY LUXURIES: MANN CAFÉ By Juliette Haas
With the hustle and bustle of students entering and exiting Mann Library, nothing says “study break” like a tasty breakfast sandwich or an icecold latte. Previously known as “Manndible,” Mann Café has since taken over the lobby of Mann Library and swept students off their feet with their hot and cold goodies. While I call Mann Cafè my home, when Manndible announced their departure I was devastated. During my freshman year, I needed to get out of my dorm, and Mann Library was my go-to spot for online classes. Now that I am an on campus communications major with nutritional sciences and business minors, I spend hours each day on the Ag quad, searching for the perfect bite to munch on. I never find myself hungry, and I have the new and improved Mann Café to thank for that. The interior of the café is filled with socially distanced students on high-top table seating, staff resting in comfortable chairs, and individuals eagerly awaiting their strawberry banana smoothie or bacon, egg, and cheese breakfast sandwich. Not only does the bustling café offer a wide variety of cuisines, but it also makes individuals with dietary restrictions feel welcome with options such as a tofu egg scramble (which even my non-vegan friends love), gluten-free sweet treats, and even a barbeque jackfruit panini. The options are truly endless from 8 a.m. into the late night, accepting an array of payment options including Big Red Bucks, credit and debit cards, and Meal Choice for Cornell staff.
I remember fondly, trekking through the snow one morning from my 11:25 a.m. Business Management lecture to head to a full day of working at Mann Library; I couldn’t help but stop by Mann Café. Although I had already eaten breakfast and was fairly filled up, the café’s ambiance and irresistible small bites were calling my name. I ordered a hot green tea and a chocolate chip cookie at the payment counter. Students were purchasing and devouring everything from well-priced paninis, twodollar pastries, foamy cappuccinos, and hot vegetarian delicacies. I headed upstairs to finally begin my work for the day, and felt a sense of warmth after leaving the café. The green tea and chocolate chip cookie weren’t the only pick-me-ups that I give credit to Mann Café for; I felt a sense of belonging in Cornell’s community just by walking into a crowd of students who were craving a mood-booster just like me.
happily caffeinated student
mozzarella pesto sandwich
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ulie TO: J PHO
PHOTO: Juliette Haas
Gimme!
some of that! By Alex Wedgbury
Continuing on my coffee theme from last semester (check out my article on CTB in “Hot Takes,”) I will be discussing the best coffee you can find on Cornell’s campus: Gimme! Coffee—exclamation point mandatory. The best way to drink coffee is black (hot take, I know) because that way you get to experience all the flavors and aromas, uninterrupted. While other coffee on campus is almost impossible to drink black because of how bitter it is, Gimme!’s coffee is filled with delicate aromas that range from sweet notes such as blackberries and plums to rich notes such as chocolate and butterscotch. They have a cup of coffee for everyone and their Leftist Espresso blend always feels like drinking a warm hug in the cold Ithaca weather. Ever since their founding in 2000, Gimme! Coffee’s mission has been to find sustainably sourced coffee that provides tantalizing aromas and flavors to the community of Ithaca, as well as exporting these quality goods nationwide. They are continuously on the hunt for new coffee beans from all over the world, sourcing from countries such as Guatemala, Brazil and Kenya. When seeking the best beans, they lean towards partnering with smallholder coffee producers
PHOTO: Emily La
m
because the company is committed to advocating for sustainable agriculture and supporting sustainable initiatives in the farms’ communities. They stand with their producers and their mission when it comes to coffee and seek to provide the best coffee shop experience to anyone who comes in. As a community, Cornell is extremely fortunate to have Gimme! Coffee on campus. After moving into Gates Hall in the fall of 2014, Gimme! has been redefining the standards of coffee on campus for every eatery and dining hall. As someone who frequently finds themselfright across the street from Gates early in the morning, Gimme! has been a defining experience for me as a Cornell student. Heading there to grab my daily coffee after my 8 a.m. lectures, their coffee has been the best remedy to get me through those early mornings. I encourage everyone to try Gimme! Once you do, you can never go back to another coffee shop on campus. P.S. Their unique pastries are to die for (You need to try the elderflower raspberry croissant, I promise you won’t regret it.) and you get 10% off coffee if you bring your own cup!
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An Ode to Libe’s
Oatmeal Cookie By Lulu Goldman
Libe, for all intents and purposes, barely strays from the typical Cornell café formula. It features familiar sights, such as Starbucks drinks and Cornell eatery pre-made staples like sandwiches, sushi, yogurts, and granola bars, alongside a heat-it-up-yourself microwave to make the café feel just like your beloved dorm room. In fairness, Libe does uniquely serve a variety of fruit smoothies topped with whipped cream, which can be the perfect pick-me-up during a long day of classes. However, where Libe truly shines brighter than any of the other eateries on campus is in its cookie selection. The café features a pastry case filled with croissants, muffins, brownies, bagels, and more. Every pastry I’ve had at Libe has been up to the mark, but the cookies—especially the oatmeal cookies—are heavenly. I’m talking one-of-the-best-cookiesI’ve-ever-had heavenly. Maybe it's the fact that I only order a Libe cookie with my coffee during particularly grueling study sessions; maybe it’s that I’m an oatmeal cookie fanatic in general; or maybe these cookies really are just that good. Whatever the case, I urge you to taste-test one of the giant, ultra-soft, melt-in-your-mouth cookies and find out for yourself. Another asset that sets Libe apart is its convenience. Situated on the Arts Quad, directly between Olin and Uris, Libe is an easy spot to take a study break, pick up an online order while rushing between classes, or crank out a paper if you like a little background noise to accompany your cramming. Still, Libe’s main asset (apart from the oatmeal cookie) is that it stays open until 11 p.m. on weeknights. In truth, anyone who has been to both Libe and Temple of Zeus can tell you that the food and drink quality of the former, while good, cannot compete with its vegetarian neighbor. However, Libe has one of the latest closing hours on campus, making it the perfect provider for your 9 p.m. Chem 2090-induced caffeine needs, when Zeus has long been closed. So, while similar to many of Cornell’s cafés in a lot of ways, stopping by Libe is definitely a worthwhile and extremely easy excursion, especially if you frequent Olin or Uris. And, seriously, get an oatmeal cookie, or two. 6
PHOTO: Lulu Goldman
Green Dragon:
The Best Grounds Underground By Maria DiGiovanni
Every student requires a place of refuge from the tedium of academic routine. For the sleepdeprived and caffeine-reliant, that sanctuary is often sought in the cafe. On Cornell’s campus, where coffee shops abound, we each must find the site of liquid life to call our own. Yet, only one reigns supreme—and that is Green Dragon.
It therefore already triumphs because any local or artisanal coffee is, in principle, better than the standardized coffees found in plenty of cafes on campus. Whatever you order, from american to chai to cappuccino, is destined to please. Last fall, for instance, I tried a pumpkin spice latte for the first time in Green Dragon. The moment I tasted that autumnal flavor, I understood just what the fall-obsessed and sweaterclad have been raving about all along.
PHOTO: Maria DiGiovanni
The first time I stepped down the stairs into Green Dragon, outright awe stopped me in my tracks. Looking around, I took in the light emanating through a ceiling of paint cans, illuminating chattering students and artfully painted walls below. Treading across the old brick floor, I moved toward the bar exuding “Genesis” by Grimes from a speaker stowed behind. I still recall searching anxiously for something to order on the black chalkboards, hastily deciding on an americano—a drink much too hot for the 70 degree day—and carrying it outside to drink on the Sibley Hall steps with a friend. Despite the heat of the coffee in the afternoon warmth, I felt thoroughly satisfied with my purchase, for I knew I had found just the place to retreat to for the semesters to come. If in need of coffee, only at Green Dragon may one find the quintessential cup. No latte on campus may compare to a steaming drink obtained in the depths of Sibley Hall. To begin with, Green Dragon boasts a broad selection of Finger Lakes Coffee Roasters coffee, Numi Organic teas, and even a variety of smoothies.
Even so, there is more to the ultimate coffee than beans and water. Much of its charm rests in the ambience: along with the interior aesthetics, every visit promises the sight of friendly faces and fashion inspiration from the surrounding patrons. Plus, the music curated by the student baristas, which ranges across nearly every genre and fills the cafe at borderline blaring volumes, manages to establish an energy which balances productivity and camaraderie. In comparison, Temple of Zeus and Gimme! Coffee, which also serve local coffee blends, lack the intimate sense of residing in a place that is—both figuratively and physically— underground. No matter how the day might begin, each visit to my beloved basement cafe presents the occasion for repose and reconnection. Always promising artisanal drinks, grooving music, and welldressed patrons, any frequenter is sure to agree that Green Dragon is a commemoration of the cool. It thus goes without question that, among all the cafes on campus, Green Dragon offers the best grounds underground. 7
PHOTO: Maria DiGiovanni
God of Zoup: Temple Of Zeus By Hannah Rosenberg Two buildings diverged in an atrium, And I am not sorry that I could not travel both, for I have landed in the Temple of Zeus A temple for homemade, soul-warming soups and coffee, chai, and lattes for all
PHOTO: Hannah Rosenberg 8
PHOTO: Hannah Rosenberg
Unfortunately, Robert Frost never had the opportunity to visit the Temple of Zeus, but if he had, he may have written “The Road Not Taken” about the cafe. What I’m about to say may rattle some readers. I may be biased because I spend most of my free time during the week at Temple of Zeus, but I believe that the cafe in the marble-tabled, sky-lit atrium of Klarman Hall is not just the best eatery on campus, but one of the best places to do work and meet friends—if you can find a seat, of course. While I usually consider the Temple of Zeus to be the entire Klarman atrium, it truly is the small cafe nestled in the corner of the rotunda. Chalkboards with soup puns and doodles decorate the exterior of the shop, and a grab-and-go refrigerated section houses carrots, yogurt, homemade hummus, and other snacks. If you get there in the morning, you’ll be greeted by scones that Zeus himself dreamed about: buttery, chewy, flaky, lightly sweetened, triangle-shaped, and the size of a football.
Other Gimme! Coffee featured desserts include muffins and croissants. Step on line to order soup or a sandwich, the staff is always friendly and eager to ladle you up Zeus’s acclaimed vegetarian homemade soups, which are always filled with fresh vegetables and spices, and sometimes hearty beans and potatoes. If you’re not a soup person, Zeus sells bagels and sandwiches—sandwiches that are worth eating just for the Ithaca Bakery sourdough. Dare I say — Zeus sells the best coffee on campus. The cafe has a selection of light and dark roast blends, made from coffee beans from local coffee roasters, Gimme! and Copper Horse, and brewed by the magical Zeus baristas. I typically get Gimme! light roast black coffee and savor its flavors, on its own or with a homemade Zeus chocolate chip cookie. Zeus for me is a respite from the stresses of Cornell life. It’s where I can always find familiar faces, grab lunch or a laughter-filled break with my friends, or indulge in a mug of Zeus’s coffee. Thank you, Zeus, for all that you provide Cornell.
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Crossings Cafe
A Sunday Morning Ritual By Rachel Close
PHOTO: Emily Lam
I’m sure you’ve heard the news: last semester two new residence halls were built, and more are on the way. These first-year and soon-tobe sophmore dorms have an open, modern aesthetic with collaborative study spaces, but only Morrison boasts two in-house eateries. But enough about architecture—let’s talk about food! What’s unique about Morrison is the cool new cafe that fits right into the clean, fresh atmosphere of the new buildings. Crossings d Cafe serves a wide nd variety of classic cafe Egg Toast food. Their menu items fit right into the trend of clean eating while satisfying your cravings such as their Blue Mango Oat Milk smoothie and Avocado & Egg Toast sandwich. Open at 7 a.m. every day, the
Avoca
cafe is the perfect spot to start your morning. Walk over on a Sunday morning, when all the dining halls are closed, sit down, and enjoy good food and a bright, welcoming atmosphere. Their hours are perfect for the early risers on campus—I know you’re out there!
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Additionally, for those of you who live on caffeine, Mighty Leaf Tea and Peet’s Coffee are a must-try and pair nicely with a fun, warm Chipotle Chicken Quesadilla that melts in your k mouth. The items are perfect Blu t Ma for breakfast, a nice lunch, or ng o Oa even a 9 pm late-night hot meal.
PHOTO: Emily Lam
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And who can forget the abundance of bakery items you can choose from. Laid out behind display case, Crossings has butter croissants, cheesecake, and Lenny & Larry’s Double Chocolate Chip Cookies. Gluten-free? No problem! Crossings also offers gluten-free brownies and gluten-free marshmallow bars to satiate your sweet tooth. You can use your BRBs to pick up a caffeinated chocolate bar or a strawberry Chobani greek yogurt on your way to class. Everything you need and more, Crossings Cafe is the place to be for morning risers looking for a delicious bite to eat.
PHOTO: Anabel Maldonado
Mac’s:
A Slice of the Statler’s Cafe
By Anabel Maldonado In any ordinary year, Mac’s Cafe was a staple in the average Cornellians diet, but thanks to COVID restrictions closing the last year, aka my freshman year, I couldn’t incorporate it into my own. However, once fall 2021 came around, to my surprise, Mac’s reopened.
Walking through the maze-like Statler Hall, following the all-encompassing savory aromas became routine for me. Every Friday afternoon at 2 p.m., I would venture off to the Mac’s pizza station. Some would say that the mediterranean grilled chicken flatbread pizza with a side salad was the most well-kept routine in my life—and I wouldn’t completely disagree. Each pizza was made to order in a brick pizza oven, making its crust extra crispy.
When sinking my teeth into the crust, a layered crunch echoed through the hall. The flavor from the grilled chicken flooded my mouth imminently, its smoky skin and rich body complimented the citrusy pesto sauce perfectly. But my palette was ultimately satiated by the tangy balsamic glaze drizzled on top of a thick browned disks of mozzarella cheese. Although a pizza may seem like just another meal to some, Mac’s Cafe makes it a weekly reward for me.
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The Morrison Awards By Ashley Jian
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Late for Class:
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When you’re in a rush to get to your class and need something convenient and delicious, Toni Morrison’s hand-rolled, oven-baked pizza is your best friend. Reminiscent of a New York slice, don’t be shy to do the fold-and-walk on the trek down from North Campus.
s!
Pizza
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Gold man
The Underdog:
Potato Gratin
Tomato Pasta
The second I put a spoonful of this dish in my mouth, it was like the scene in Ratatouille and I was back at the Appel dining hall all over again. Even though the potato gratin was never the star of the show, its cheesy, garlic infused cream is as distinct as night and day.
Dining hall pasta is rarely appetizing. Yet, this “Mediterranean Chicken Marinara” pasta was quite comforting amidst the chaotic energy and deranged flow of the cafeteria. If nothing else is calling your name, you can trust this staple located at the Pizza Bar.
PHOTO: Lulu Goldman
This-is-the-Same-asAppel:
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Most Suspicious: Udon Noodles “What is that?” was my first thought after seeing the bowl of noodles to be cooked in front of me. The noodles were oddly short and thick with tapered ends. When they’re cooked over the flat top grill, the uneven cooking gives noodles on the bottom a charred crunch while other noodles remain vampirish cold and pale. Upon tasting these noodles, I only became more confused by the oddly sweet flavor in the sauce. PHOTO: Lulu Goldman
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Red e m ption The Redemption: Dole Whip Soft Serve Just as I was about to walk out of Morrison feeling disappointed by the food quality, frequent diners at Morrison recommended trying the soft serve machine modestly hiding in the back corner. The flavors offered, lemon and mango, both tasted refreshing and fragrant, like a sorbet Hi-Chew. It was easily the best course of the meal. an PH O TO: Lulu Goldm
MVP (Most Voluminous Portion): Beef Coming in with low expectations, the “beef roast carved with gravy” was unexpectedly tender with the perfect shade of pink remaining in the center. The gravy added an additional layer of juice to the already luscious piece of meat. Morrison Dining Hall should be serving this hearty dish on a daily basis. PHOTO: Emily Lam
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PHOTO: Abby Reing 14
Dear Becker
By Priya Pradhan
Dear Becker Dining, Thank you for your fried calamari, for always having brewed coffee to kick start my days, and most of all for your irresistible crème brûlée. As someone who prefers to cook for herself and others, I never thought that I would come to love a dining hall so much. I used to complain during my time at Becker that I didn’t have my own kitchen, but what I didn’t see then was how much of a community the dining hall built for me. From the house dinners, where acapella groups would serenade us, to the dinners with my suitemates that would last for hours (where sometimes we’d literally be asked to leave), I spent two years in your halls. Whether it was a quick morning dash for an apple or a late-night stop to down a plate full of crème brûlée, not a day went by without us crossing paths. Getting in line over and over again for a refill of crispy calamari and piling my to-go box to the brim with sweet potato fries, you let me indulge in my favorite foods, even on my busiest days when I’d run through the doors minutes closing time. Your unlimited supply of double chocolate cookies and brownies were there for me on days when nearly no one else was. When the pandemic began early in the spring of 2020—almost a lifetime ago now—all but one of my friends left campus. An eerie quiet and desolation settled over the entire Cornell campus. Once busy and bustling, with lines out of each dining hall, West Campus seemed to be reduced to looming buildings that echoed with an unsettling emptiness. But stepping through your doors, it was a completely different story. Even the masks and newly installed plexiglass couldn’t hide the warmth and friendliness of everyone who worked there. With all the other dining halls closed, the remaining students on campus traveled in and out of your doors everyday. It was those moments grabbing food that I’d strike up a much needed conversation with an unexpected classmate or freshman-year friend who also couldn’t return home when the pandemic struck. There was a sense of being cared for; despite all the turbulence that we all went through in those early days of the pandemic, you and your staff were still there looking out for us. While I could no longer watch Ithaca’s vibrant sunsets through your vaulted wall of windows, I still got to grab a box filled with my favorite creamy roasted pepper rigatoni. There may not have been any more calamari or crème brulée, but every cookie handed out reminded me that I was being looked after. Now, I’ve finally gotten a kitchen of my own where I spend a majority of my evenings taking a break from the books to try out new recipes. I’ve even tried once to recreate the rigatoni I love so much; but it wasn’t quite the same. I love having my own space to cook and create, but I miss having spontaneous conversations with friends I meet in line and on days I’m running late, I’ll have to make do with some instant ramen made in a hurry. I know that if I visit you now, I’ll be able to find those perfectly crispy sweet potato fries and plant-based chicken tenders, or even some tiramisu if I’m lucky. Even as I graduate, I know that if I ever return, I’ll still be met with warm smiles and leave heartily filled; as though I had never left at all. So thank you Becker, for being my home and getting me through two tumultuous years with your food and family. With love, Priya 15
I love okies The difference between a fairytale like the Ugly Duckling and The Hunchback of Notre Dame is puberty. The Ugly Duckling is more fortunate, growing out of awkward looks during teenage years. The Hunchback of Notre Dame, however, has passed that age of adolescence. Nevertheless, the two find happiness and love in their respective stories, the same love I feel eating at Okenshields. I never could put a finger on the unique aesthetic of Okenshields, until today. Just like in the story of the Ugly Duckling, I hold out hope that one day Cornell Dining will help Okenshields through some current growing pains. That being said, just as The Hunchback of Notre Dame never changes, I pray that Okenshields maintains its defining charm. This defining charm, though, is where I really begin my story. It’s the same charm that scares most away while keeping its loyal fans close. I can confidently say that I am one of those loyal fans.
PHOTO: Cassidy Tryon 16
By Grace Wilkey
What I love most, and soon you will too, about Okenshields definitely isn’t its natural exclusivity, where operating hours are, sadly, restricted, to weekdays. Nor is it that I almost set a waffle on fire there, a truth I must now speak. What I love most is the wonder that stems from each experience. Sure, the food options leave something to be desired, and the lines, especially during lunch hours, are longer than certain class waitlists, but let this article be your guide to seeing the gauche beauty in Okenshields.
You’ll find Cornell Dining’s very own Hunchback of Notre Dame tucked away in the basement of Willard Straight Hall, a building whose sole purpose today is to test for infectious disease while also hosting large gatherings just next door.
Though, as Disney reaffirms, Okenshields is still loveable in the way it brings people together and provides for them. It doesn’t take a decorated economics professor to explain this phenomenon. Rather, just a plucky hotelie (yours truly.) Okenshields is ol’ reliable, a warm meal for when students are limited to campus and bound by their GET app and weaning BRBs. Not to mention, it is the only dining hall on Central Campus, and so takes on the mantle of serving the cohorts of evening library-goers, South Campus habitants, and even the occasional off-campus resident.
There is more than meets the eye with this Central Campus meal swipe monopoly. It is also a land of cultural exploration. For just one meal swipe, explore Okenshield’s albeit ambiguous take on Asian cuisine through the wok station, stroll through Sicily sampling in the pizza station, and even adventure through Germany’s Oktoberfest on special occasions via a customizable pretzel station.
If your tastebuds prefer something more reminiscent of a West Campus dining experience, Okenshields can do that too, all while keeping you close to your next class or library study session. So, splurge for the mid-day waffle, topped with butter, syrup, and all the flavors of ice cream that Cornell Dairy can offer. Or, opt for a salad, something I’ve never before sampled at Okenshields. All this and more at your Ugly Duckling dining hall. Upon piling your plate high with whatever meal you choose, begin to tour the expansive space, searching for a spare chair or two, or three, four, or more. But don’t get too hopeful. Despite the five rooms dedicated to dining, there is seldom a free table. In looking for a place to dig in, notice the illustrious fixtures, chandeliers made of kitchen serving utensils, a random, never-to-beplayed piano, a staircase that leads to nowhere, and medieval-inspired signs that comprise the enterprise’s vaguely historic theme. I promise West Campus’ prim and proper dining halls pale in comparison to the scenery of Okenshields.
Okenshields is a melange of chaos, confusion, and ultimately, necessity. Serving students at moments of desperation or convenience and tucked into the ribcage of an old building, it is easy to overlook this wonderful dining hall. It is this exact spot where I’ve had my longest conversations, catching up with classmates or having spur-of-the-moment lunches with new friends. It is this exact spot where I met my best friend, brazenly asking him, at the time a stranger, for advice on my love life at the dessert station. It is this exact spot where I share bi-weekly dinners and heart-to-hearts with one of my very first friends on campus. It is this exact spot where hundreds of other students share the same memories.
PHOTO: Cassidy Tryon
Head over to Ho Plaza, open your GET app, and allow Okenshields, Cornell University’s very-own Ugly Hunchback Duckling of Notre Dame into your heart and stomach and let me know what memories you make while dining.
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Food Pho Thought at terrace
: Abby PHOTO
Reing
By Abby Reing
Abby
Throughout the school year at Cornell, the weather changes from an 80 degree blue-sky summer to a shivering snowy winter, and back again. What food could possibly maintain its spot as my favorite, all year long? While I love a smoothie, I’m not inclined to hold a cold cup when I already can’t feel my fingers in February. And though Zeus’s mac and cheese can brighten even the darkest days in December, it’s not what I'm looking for on a fresh spring day. No matter what it’s like outside, I can always count on the Terrace pho station to have a bowl of saucy noods to satisfy my cravings.
In the summer, I order the Vietnamese noodle bowl, extra saucy with all the toppings. I make sure that the flat rice noodles are drenched in Nước chấm, topped with tofu for protein, and garnished with peanuts, pickled radishes, basil, shallots, kimchi, bean sprouts, mushrooms, mint, and a glob of hoisin sauce. (Pro tip: don’t be afraid to ask for extra toppings that aren’t listed under the “Vietnamese noodle bowl” on the menu!) I have the best memories of devouring this fresh and healthy lunch in the grass on the arts quad! In the winter when I am bundled up in four layers of clothes, I’m looking for something hearty and piping hot. On those days, the light sweet and sour noodle bowl just doesn’t cut it. This is when I return to the pho bar for spiced beef broth, egg noodles, and, of course, all the toppings. I always add an egg and sauce (both hoisin and sriracha) to bulk up the broth. Sipping on this steaming bowl by the window as snow falls outside is everything I need to cheer me up on a frigid Ithaca day. While I certainly have many favorite eateries around campus, the reliability and versatility of the Terrace pho station is unmatched. And while you need to have the perfect schedule of classes to avoid the crowds, there is nothing quite like the joy of an empty Terrace lobby between you and a perfect bowl of noodles.
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PHOTO : Abby R eing
How I Learned to Love Dining Hall Food at risley Before I came to Cornell, I was deeply terrified of dining hall food. Whenever someone would tell me, “Alex, your college eating experience is going to revolve around the dining hall food,” I would scour. I had negative memories of school eateries stemming back to my elementary and middle school days of soggy, hockey puck chicken sandwiches and weirdly colored lettuce. On top of that, I had just become vegetarian when I was accepted into Cornell. So, my foodie self was terrified. The keyword is “was.” I was terrified; however, I quickly realized my fears were completely unfounded. It turned out Cornell was home to my holy grail of on-campus vegetarian cuisine: Risley Dining Hall. This gothic building made me realize dining hall food is nothing to shutter about. It’s even something to look forward to. My first experience with Risley came during my senior year in high school during Cornell Days. Risley was hosting a Harry Potter dining experience. Individuals in the dorm dressed up as different characters and there were owls in the building. But the best part was the magical food brought to life in the dining hall.
PHOTO: Cassidy Tryon
PHOTO: Cassidy Tryon
By Alex Castroverde
My 18-year-old self was so excited to try butterbeer and some Harry Potter-themed vegetarian food. I remember seeing all my favorite characters, from Luna Lovegood to the house professor dressed up as Dumbledore, while eating Madame Sprout’s Mandrake Scream and Herbology Salad with Liquid Luck Vinaigrette. My inner child and fangirl were ecstatic. That is when I knew that Risley was hands down my favorite dining hall. Fast forward to my freshman year, I was eating at Risley an unhealthy amount—pretty much every day. I would sneak in containers to steal tubs of their chia seed pudding. I had never liked coconut before, but this pudding was to die for. I would eat it at odd hours of the day out of a one-foot-long container. It didn’t matter whether it was midnight in my dorm room or 1:27 p.mm in the library. On top of that pudding, I always got so excited for the vegetarian-friendly dinners that I would put them in my calendar. I still remember Pirate Day, when everyone was telling me the joke, “what is a pirate’s favorite letter?” (Rrrr!) Sadly, due to COVID, Risley Dining Hall hasn’t held any more themed dinners, but I hope before I graduate, I can attend just one more. Until then, regardless of whether you are vegetarian or not, you should still check out my favorite dining hall: Risley Dining! 19
Establishment:
The Thrill of Dining in a Student-Managed Restaurant By Robert Brooks Hotel School professor Lily Jan once said that Establishment is the hottest club in town—and with good reason. There’s a bouncer at the door checking IDs, a line to get in, and reservations that are hard to come by. But people don’t flock to Establishment just because of its exclusivity. They also come for the spectacle of being served and cooked for by an entire staff of Cornell students. Located on the third floor of Statler Hall, Establishment is the product of HADM 3550: Restaurant Management, a hotelie major requirement generally taken by juniors.
The result of the ever-changing specials is a playful, and at times cheekily chaotic dining experience that can never be recreated on a return visit. But since this menu changes every night, you can imagine there’s some risk in ordering from it. On a good night, you can expect dishes like paella with perfectly cooked seafood, crispy quail with a cranberry glaze, and creamy udon carbonara, just to name a few. On a bad night, which has only happened once in my experience, you can expect dry beef, chewy raw potato, and appetizers sitting in two centimeters of oil.
The best thing about Establishment is that you can never have the same meal there again. Each night features a different specials menu centered around a theme. Most themes tend to be something cultural or feature a specific ingredient, like Spring in Santorini and Pineapple Fiesta. But sometimes, you’ll get something magical, like Fetch—an ode to Mean Girls that served dishes such as “whatever, I’m getting the cheese fries” and “you could try sears” scallops. 20
PHOTO: Rafael Bitanga
As a hotel school student myself, I have a great deal of stories from my time taking this course. And perhaps only a hotelie will ever understand the thrill of working in a restaurant (unpaid!) for course credit. But I approach this article more from the perspective of an objective diner, because as the most expensive restaurant on campus with a minimum check of $20, Establishment sets expectations high.
PHOTO: Rafael Bitanga
It’s worth mentioning that the restaurant also maintains an à la carte menu that stays consistent from night to night. The salmon entree is solid, and at $21, the 8 oz beef tenderloin is a good deal as long as you’re fine with a medium-cooked steak. Alas, the main menu also has its misdeeds, like the sodium-soaked duck quesadilla, which got lost somewhere on its journey from China to Mexico, or a deep-fried burrata (a cheese that should never be deep-fried). If you’re vegetarian, you may be in even worse luck when you discover there’s only one entree option for you. My one recommendation: Most patrons embrace the bedlam of the specials for a reason. So if you choose to dine at Establishment, dare to do the same. The discerning guest may also fault Establishment for its service. In my experiences dining there, I’ve been no stranger to water glasses sitting empty, wrong orders being brought out, and an endless wait for the check (offenses I have also caused as a student in the class). But what more could you expect from a ragtag group of food-service novices, many of whom are trying to pass a class? The important thing to remember is that the restaurant, above all, is a teaching environment— and that mistakes are quickly learned from and made up for, often through complementary meals and desserts, or just genuine humility. The thrill of dining at Establishment is thus not in its promise of excellent food (which it usually fulfills) or even in the exclusive environment it curates. Establishment’s allure rests in one fact: there’s nowhere else you can eat in a restaurant managed by students.
PHOTO: Rafael Bitanga
Behind the Scenes: The class is structured around lab groups that operate the restaurant every week night. Within each lab group, there’s about 28 students who divide themselves into teams of four. On each night of service, a particular team becomes the “manager,” which entitles them to the privilege of serving their own specials. The responsibility of the other 24 students is to help the management team execute their menu by cooking the food and waiting upon the guests. This pattern repeats for the semester until each team has managed the other teams.
PHOTO: Rafael Bitanga 21
PHOTO: Emily Lam
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PHOTO: Emily Lam
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In the fall of my freshman year, I would dash around the corner from the auditorium in Stocking Hall to my shift at the Dairy Bar—stripping off my sweatshirt, throwing my hair up in a bun, and slapping on the much-too-big-for-my-head hat. My nervous energy would dissolve as soon as I stepped behind the counter; I held the ice cream scoop, and therefore the power. It’s December in Ithaca, and ice cream is my (security) blanket of choice.
By Sarah Austin
Of course it’s cold outside— it’s December in Ithaca. I’m slipping and sliding my way up Williams Street, across the engineering quad, and down Tower Road, until I reach my final destination: The Dairy Bar. Campus is nearly empty. There are no students or cars driving past to disturb the snow slowly drifting to the ground. It’s December in Ithaca. Everyone seeks refuge inside from the biting cold, the howling wind, and the icy snow. So why, on this blustery morning, did I decide to brave the trek— much of which is uphill—to an ice cream store of all places? Ever since I arrived at Cornell in the Fall of 2019, the Dairy Bar is where I felt most comfortable. As a Viticulture and Enology major, Stocking Hall, home of the Dairy Bar, was my original stomping ground. The summer before I even stepped foot on campus, I secured my first (and ongoing) campus job: scooping ice cream. Ice cream became a part of my daily routine, even in December in Ithaca.
By the time my freshman spring rolled around, I was a Hotelie. I no longer turned the corner in Stocking Hall to get to work, but rather the corner of East Ave. It was no longer December in Ithaca, but a layer of blubber had now settled on my waistline—sponsored by Cornell Dairy ice cream. My theoretical security blanket has now manifested itself into a very real one, shielding me from the fear and uncertainty of this next step in my academic journey. I’m now beginning the spring semester of my junior year. The sunshine has literally melted off those 15 pounds of ice cream, however I’m still left with the abstract warmth they provided for me. I’m so fortunate to have found, not only a place, but a community in the Dairy Bar. I know that I will always be greeted with a smile, a story about what I missed, and a question as to when my next shift will be. The Dairy Bar became a refuge for me, a place where I can laugh, hide, or cry. It provides me with a group of people who will celebrate my wins and mourn my losses; people who have become my constructed family. I still take all of my classes in Statler Hall. As soon as they end, I join the throng of students walking down the stairs. Some of them go to the left into the library. Others split right towards the lounge. I, however, walk straight out the door, and begin my journey to Stocking Hall.
It’s December in Ithaca, but I won’t let that deter me. 23
Don’t Speak to Me Until I’ve Had My Nasty Fries! By Mikayla Stock
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Picture This: it’s 12:54 a.m. on a Friday. You’ve just been out for a night on the town that surely involved nothing but wholesome activities, and chances are you might be hungry. Actually, you’re starving. Nothing in the world would satisfy your famished state quite like two orders of fries, some chicken fingers, a calzone, a bag of Chex Mix, and a side of mozzarella sticks—perhaps the healthiest stuff you’ll consume throughout the course of the evening. The only problem is that you live on North Campus, and nothing could possibly be open at this hour that would cater to your evergreasy culinary desires. That’s where Nasties comes in. Lo and behold, Nasties—the cafe/convenience store located on the first floor of RPCC— is the “Lifeblood of the freshman population,” working to capture the hearts of many with its late hours, array of 2 a.m. post-outing comfort foods, and solace during moments when fries are the only solution to the array of complex issues that accompany the college experience. Its technical name happens to be Bear Necessities. I’m embarrassed to admit how long it took me to learn that “Nasties” was the acceptable term to refer to this wonder of a food establishment. If you’re looking for the greasiest, ”Nastiest” (but truly best) comfort food in a moment of late night hunger, look no further than the selection at Nasties. Classic menu items like the Cornell Smash (complete with ham, turkey, bacon, and swiss sandwiched between sourdough), burgers, calzones, chicken fingers, subs, and their beloved fries are available for pickup when you need them most. Breakfast sandwiches are available in the mornings, and a grand selection of drinks, snacks, cereals, ramen, candy, and more is available around the clock. I must take the time to commemorate Nasties for all it has done for me during my first year at Cornell. From one late night apple juice craving to another (even later) moment when my friends and I had the last of the day’s fries bestowed upon us for free, it’s safe to say that this North Campus staple will always hold a special place in my heart. I know I’m not alone when I say that the charm of Nasties will remain with my fellow Cornellians and I long after our graduation. PHOTO Mikayla Stock
Franny’s CORNELL’S hidden pick-me-up By Madi Yeh After a long day of classes, Franny’s chicken tikka bowl is quite possibly the only thing that keeps me going.
Waking up tired? Not when I can roll out of bed for Franny’s pork ramen bowl. Don’t want to walk up the slope at 9 a.m. in the morning? Fair, but do it for Franny’s spiced fries. Though my inner foodie snob hates to admit that Cornell Dining could ever be a daily motivator– Franny’s flavorful delights definitely hit the mark. Who would have thought that the glowing white box outside of Sibley Hall was actually a food truck that served an eclectic menu of fusion foods from tikka masala to the phorito–a burrito made of pho. It may seem like an abomination to my ears, but don’t hate until you’ve tried it. I wouldn’t go so far to categorize Franny’s Food Truck as the best eatery on campus, but the memories I’ve made eating Franny’s burgers and rice bowls have been some of the best at Cornell. Wrapped up in the savory, tangy spice of the
chicken tikka bowl are fond memories of Franny’s lunches with my roommates. Rushing to meet together between the onslaught of our afternoon classes we laughed (mostly at each other), debated who was the best roommate, and spent countless hours catching each other up on the two hours that we had spent apart during morning classes.
These moments, though fairly mundane, will always remain close to my heart, indelibly linked to the fragrant spices of Franny’s chicken tikka bowl. I could say the same about the pork ramen bowl, spiced fries, or rice bowl: each of these dishes remind me of a beloved Cornell memory.
It’s these experiences that I have associated with Franny’s that makes the glowing white truck hold such a treasured position in my heart. If you have yet to try Franny’s I couldn’t recommend it more. Bring your friends, bring your roommates, bring your empty stomach, but leave full of silly moments and unforgettable memories.
Lulu Goldman PHOTO:
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