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112012 ISSUE71

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note from the editor AsiaLIFE Group Group Editor-in-Chief / Director Cambodia: Mark Bibby Jackson mark@asialife.asia

Group Director Sales & Marketing / Director Vietnam: Jonny Edbrooke jonny@asialife.asia

Managing Editor Cambodia: Ellie Dyer ellie@asialife.asia

Director Thailand: Nattamon Limthanachai (Oh) oh@asialife.asia

Editor-at-Large Cambodia: Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

Group Creative Director: Johnny Murphy johnny@asialife.asia

Siem Reap: Nicky McGavin nicky@asialife.asia Social Media and Marketing: Kate Burbidge kate@asialife.asia

Ellie Dyer October 15, 2012, was a day that will be long remembered in Cambodia. In the early hours of the morning, King Father Norodom Sihanouk died in Beijing. Mass displays of mourning ensued as the country grieved, with hundreds of thousands of people taking to the streets to see his remains returned to the Royal Palace.

One event that particularly stood out in my mind took place on the Tuesday of the week that followed his death. As seven days of mourning drew to a close, huge crowds again convened outside the palace, with many carrying lotus flowers and portraits of the former king.

As darkness fell, people knelt en masse to pay their respects and thousands of monks began to chant in unison. The sense of deep loss and emotion was profound. For me, that night emphasised the unity of the Kingdom and also the love that many hold for the monarchy.

On behalf of AsiaLIFE magazine, I would like to express our profound sympathy and condolences for the royal family and the country at this time.

While many in Cambodia have been looking back on history in recent months, this month’s magazine is looking to the future of the nation, specifically to its women. For the cover feature, our writers Bridget Di Certo and Lim Meng Y investigated the changing role of women in the Kingdom and met some young women determined to make their mark on the world.

Another inspirational woman featured in our November edition is 81-year-old dancer Em Theay.

Named by the King Father himself, she helped restore Cambodian dance after the destruction of the Khmer Rouge regime. She is a fascinating woman who cannot help but spur younger generations to strive for success and support their country.

In other stories, we’ve considered cocktail making and the suspense-filled world of detective novels, as our publisher Mark Bibby Jackson met with representatives from Asia’s first English-language crime publishing house. Historical genres haven’t been neglected, with a trip to a Vietnam battlefield described in our travel section.

4 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

Sales Manager Cambodia: Sorn Chantha chantha@asialife.asia Sales and Accounts: Seang Seyha & Seang Satya

Art Director Cambodia: Steve Tierney www.teaguesart.com Photo Editor Cambodia: Dylan Walker Photographers: Conor Wall & Rithy Lomor Pich Editorial Assistant: Seth Rinoza Distribution: Sam Ath Ouk 012 319 172

For advertising enquiries call Chantha on 012 576 878 Special thanks to: Darren Gall, Gemma Jones, Trevor Keidan, Mary Kozlovski, David Preece, Daniel Riegler, Yeng Sok, Dr Claire Uebbings, Chhay C Sov, Lim Meng Y & The Cambodian Restaurant Association - for their contribution to this issue.

On the Cover Young Women: Ouk Sam Ath, 24, Project Officer at Child Rights Foundation. Houn Nalin, 24, Recruitment Co-ordinator at HR Inc. Cambodia.

Photographer: Dylan Walker

AsiaLIFE is a registered trademark.

No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners. © 360º Media.

Next time you're in Thailand or Vietnam, check out the latest issue of AsiaLIFE or download them from www.asialife.asia

112012 ISSUE71

12 Picks of the Month

front

14 Openings

getaway

40 Battlefield Remembered 42 A Day in the Life of Marunouchi

17 Dispatches 18 Phnom Penh Calendar

46 Food Review: Chuck Norris

food

20 Photo Essay

24 Q&A: I-Hsuan Chang

Dim Sum

47 Food Talk: Marum

on the cover

26 Making Their Mark 32 A Legend of Dance

style & design

48 Colour Box

storyboard

34 Recycling Cambodia

back

53 Listings

36 Riding the Crime Wave

88 Phnom Penh Map

38 Cocktails and Dreams

98 Pub Quiz

32 6 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

36

38

40

Nov 2012

The Kingdom joined together last month to mark the passing of King Father Norodom Sihanouk, who died in Beijing aged 89. Hundreds of thousands of Cambodians lined the streets as his remains were returned to Phnom Penh’s Royal Palace from China on Oct. 17. A national week of mourning was declared, with a funeral set to take place around three months after his death. Leaders from Vietnam, Thailand and Laos were among those who travelled to Phnom Penh to pay their respects to the former king.

A Clear Pulse

A Clear Pulse, a photography exhibition by Ayako Kimura, will be held at Craft Peace Café on Street 392 from Nov. 17 to Jan. 13. Kimura’s images capture ordinary objects and moments in everyday life to explore ideas of familiarity, revealing unseen elements. The Japan-born photographer feels that amid the rapid development of the

Photo by Yoki Coco

Cambodia Mourns King Father

capital “there is a loss of the ordinary beauty and moments which I am attempting to capture in my photographs".

An opening event will be held from 2pm to 5pm on Nov. 17.

The gallery is open daily from 9am to 6pm, but closes on Mondays. For more information visit ayakography.com

in Phnom Penh. Children’s entertainment will also be provided, with games, clowns and an opportunity to visit Father Christmas. Admission costs $3 and is free for under12s. Proceeds from the day will go towards projects that support vulnerable women and children in the Kingdom.

Christmas Fair

New Head Coach for Phnom Penh Crown

Prepare for the festive season by attending the Women’s International Group’s annual Christmas fair on Dec. 9 from 10am to 5pm. A total of 70 vendors will sell a variety of handicrafts, jewellery and other potential prizes at the InterContinental Hotel

Phnom Penh Crown football club has appointed Sam Schweingruber as its new head coach. Schweingruber previously set up the SALT Academy, a grassroots scheme in Battambang. Phnom Penh Crown president Rithy Samnang

said the 33-year-old had achieved "fantastic success" in grassroots football in Cambodia.

"He knows what it takes to develop football in the right way, building a sustainable model that is the envy of many other countries,” the president said.

The club thanked former head coach David Booth, who guided Phnom Penh Crown to the Metfone Cambodian League title in 2011 and two AFC President’s Cup final stage tournaments.

Angkor Bike Ride and Marathon

Thousands of bikers and runners will descend on Siem Reap over the weekend of Dec. 1 and Dec. 2. Organised by Village

david@shade7.com www.springfreetrampoline.com

077 962 467 077 962 441

The world’s safest Trampoline Now available in Cambodia 8 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

Focus International & Terre des Hommes, the seventh annual Angkor Wat Bike Race and Ride will take place on Dec. 1, with proceeds going towards the fight against human trafficking and other forms of child exploitation in Cambodia. The following day the seventeenth Angkor Wat International Half-Marathon will take place, alongside a 10km run and family fun run. Both events will take place around the UNESCO world heritage site. For more information about either even or to register, visit villagefocus.org/ bike or angkormarathon.org.

Record-Breaking Dance

Popular television show Loy9 has received official certification that a huge synchronised dance event, which provided its series one finale, has set a new world record. The event saw hundreds of Loy9 fans participate in the line-dance known as ‘The Madison’. It was declared a record by officials at Guinness World Records. The 929 participants danced for five minutes, more than doubling the number of dancers in the last attempt.

PPAWS: Pet of the Month

Starting this month, AsiaLIFE will feature an animal that has been put up for adoption by the Phnom Penh Animal Welfare Society (PPAWS). The first is Srey Mom, a cat that vets estimate is about five or six years old.

She was found in January 2012 in a cardboard box in a pagoda together with her six new-born kittens. She is a calm and placid animal who loves cat biscuits and is a little bit overweight. She hunts mice and rats and can be surprisingly fast on her feet. Mom deserves to find a home where she can receive more individual, loving attention. She has been spayed, fully vaccinated and recently received her three monthly de-wormer shot. If you are interested in meeting Srey Mom, please email nicola. scales@gmail.com or send her a SMS on 017 293 654.

SIEM REAP NEWS

Award for Boutique Hotel

Soria Moria hotel on Wat Bo Road has won a Wild Asia Responsible Tourism Award in the Best in Community Engagement and Development category. The mid-sized boutique hotel is known for social programs and responsible tourism support, including a trainee scheme for disadvantaged young adults. Last year, in line with a mission to support the local community through long-term economic development, half-ownership of the hotel was transferred to the staff. Soria Moria was the only winner from Cambodia this year. Previous successes have hailed from

10 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

Siem Reap. The Sam Veasna Centre was a finalist in 2007 for its Tmatboey Thoeun Krasaing Ibis ecotourism project and PEPY Tours was a finalist in 2010. The award was accepted by assistant manager Yin Sochea, who joined the hotel in 2007 after graduating from the Sala Baï hospitality training school.

Child-friendly Area at Rosy’s

Rosy’s Guesthouse is transforming a ground floor room into a children’s play area, for the benefit of guests and expats alike.

The room, which will open in November, features a blackboard wall, a magnetic wall, a circus tent, a play

tunnel and lots of toys.

They include an abacus, homemade play-dough, colouring pens and crayons, soft toys and children’s books in English, Khmer and, in due course, French.

Rosy’s owners have two children themselves and plan to later add a dressingup box and a nap area.

The room will be open from 7am and is best suited to children aged 18 months and over, as it will not be supervised at first. Owner Rachel Band says this may change if there is demand.

Angkor Boddhi Tree Café

This new riverside café is being brought to Siem Reap

by the same people who created the popular Angkor Boddhi Tree Retreat and Meditation Centre. Opening in the first week of November, the café maintains a healthy, holistic vibe with a menu that’s lean and nutritious.

It caters to vegans and vegetarians but, among the meat offerings, the chicken and mango burger with thickcut potato fries looks set to be a star, along with the lime-baked cheesecake. The café’s blue shutters look out onto the Siem Reap River just north of Old Market, and benefit from proximity to the market area. Upstairs, visitors can chill out on comfy sofas and peruse a large selection of books.

PICKS OF THE MONTH See: Riverscapes IN FLUX Waterways prove the focus of a new project showing at Sa Sa Bassac gallery in cooperation with Meta House, which involves artists from Cambodia, Thailand and Vietnam.

Initiated by the Goethe Institut in Germany, the exhibition is part of a wider regional tour in which local artists present their responses to rivers and the environmental, cultural and social issues they raise. Alongside an exhibition at Sa Sa Bassac showing until Nov. 11, there will also be film screenings at Meta House and discussions with river experts, artists and curators. Full details can be found at blog.goethe.de/riverscapes.

Surf: Just the Facts Sites like FactCheck. org and PolitiFact.com can alert us almost immediately when someone is full of, well, not facts. Another breed of site, snopes. com, takes vetting in a different direction.

What it lacks in depth and timeliness, Snopes makes up for in breadth. Besides political rumours, it investigates urban legends, folklore, and all around misinformation. In addition to the truth about that photo of a gun-toting, bikini-clad Palin, the searchable database will tell you the origin of German cake (hint: not Germany).

Watch: Cambodian Living Arts Attend: Blogfest Asia 2012 Technology lovers are in for a treat. Blogfest. asia — a festival for bloggers in Asia — is set to take place in Siem Reap from Nov. 1 to Nov. 5. Everyone is welcome to join in and meet hundreds of bloggers from the online community. Participants will be able to learn more about the online practice, while interacting with key regional bloggers.

The festival aims to serve as an ideas hub and make a technological and social impact for the benefit of the region.

For booking details visit 2012.blogfest.asia.

Learn: Khmer for Foreigners Royal University of Phnom Penh’s first semester of Khmer lessons for foreigners promises to have expats mastering the basics of reading, writing and speaking Khmer. It is hoped the course will enable expats to leap across the language barrier and go from merely getting by to conversing in Khmer. Each semester costs $200 and lasts for eight to ten weeks, with four to five classes lasting 1.5 hours each week. For more information go to www.rupp.edu.kh.

12 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

Head down to the National Museum’s gardens this month to experience a new season of cultural shows from Cambodian Living Arts. The organisation is presenting a new programme of traditional arts performances called Plae Pakaa, meaning ‘coming to fruition’.

Three rotating shows, including an operetta, will be performed from Monday to Saturday, starting at 7pm each evening. For more information visit marioninstitute.org/ cambodian-living-arts.

Gangnam Style From Seoul to Eton, K-Pop’s breakout tune creates a global dance craze Cuban Mobility As Havana relaxes migration visa requirements, will more and more Cubans say hasta la vista to the island?

Taliban Outrage Pakistani schoolgirl Malala Yousafzai shot in the head by extremists after advocating female education King Father Love Following Norodom Sihanouk’s passing, Cambodians commemorate his life en masse China-Cambodia Ties Cambodia to strengthen relationship with the world’s emerging superpower, say reports

GOING UP GOING DOWN Road Safety An estimated 26 deaths in Cambodian road accidents during Pchum Ben indicates much work remains to be done Jimmy Savile Icon of British children’s television embroiled in abuse claims following his death Spanish Football Are the Spaniards losing their dominance? France denies The Red Furies a World Cup qualifier win Newsweek Print Edition The digital domain vanquishes another, as US-based news outlet opts for online-only format Lance Armstrong Livestrong or Livewrong? Allegations of doping mar the seven time Tour de France winner

OPENINGS EXQUISITELY FRENCH

LE TEMPS DES CERISES

Inspired by a French song written in 1866, Le Temps des Cerises opened in early October. The revamped colonial mansion consists of a boutique and restaurant.

The boutique prides itself in selling French-designed linen, hand-embroidered bed sheets and a mix of modern designs including jewellery boxes, figurines and lamps. Owner Adelia Ribier also designs ladies’ casual wear. The restaurant serves breakfast and lunch, with a wide range of choices at an average price of $4 a dish.

The English breakfast ($5.50) will provide ample fuel to kick off the day.

Le Temps des Cerises, 190 Street 51.

Tel: 012 907 193. Open Monday to Saturday, from 7.30am to 6pm.

AROUND THE CLOCK

KIRYA COFFEE Wondering where to satisfy your coffee craving in the middle of the night? Phnom Penh’s newest coffee shop is open until the early hours of the morning.

Japanese-owned Kirya Coffee serves a delightful mix of beverages and pastries that are sure to keep you coming back for more, and is currently expanding its menu. The white, two-story façade has outdoor seating and an indoor area equipped with good lighting and plush seats. Staffed with attentive and pleasant employees, patrons are sure to have a good time.

Kirya Coffee, 192 Street 51, Tel: 016 363 730.

Open daily from 6am to 2am.

SPEAK EASY Venture into the Street 240½ alley and you’ll soon spot a brass sign that reads Bar.sito, the Spanish for ‘small bar’. Resembling a modern speak-easy, the interior will teleport patrons to another dimension. Decoration that juxtaposes wood, steel and glass is hidden behind the large wooden door, creating a classy, eyecatching venue. The bar serves specially designed cocktails along with beer, wines, spirits and champagne. Despite its size it is divided into sections — with a lounge/bar and a small private area that features unusual windows, comprised of metallic circles arranged in symmetrical artistry. Bar.sito is definitely a must-see.

Bar.sito, Street 240½, Tel: 012 602 955, email: info@barsito.asia.

Open daily from 5pm until late. Closed on Monday.

14 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

BAR.SITO

KNOCKING ON HEAVEN’S DOOR

DOORS Located near Wat Phnom, Doors recently opened its, well, doors. Walking along busy Street 47, visitors cannot miss the full-sized door frame set along the street that acts as its sign. An attractive outdoor seating area is set by the entrance and the interior is equally well designed. Enormous hand-painted images peer out from the venue’s high walls, while a stage equipped with an array of musical instruments waits for the next act. The interior is elegant, but retains a hip and trendy feel. Doors Music + Tapas offers a Spanish-themed menu, with fried eggs with squid a bestseller. Overall, it is a perfect venue for groups of friends.

Doors Music + Tapas, 18 Street 47, Tel: 023 986 114. Open daily from 11am until late.

INNOVATIVE BREAKFAST

in our secluded garden

OPEN FROM 8AM e

v

e

r

y

d

a

y

fresh fruit smoothies illy coffee concoctions

CREATIVE YET STRAIGHTFORWARD MENU tapas, salads, sandwiches & burgers

FREE WIFI

all day long

HAPPY HOUR 3PM-6:30PM

free tapas w/ round of cocktails, wine, beer

influenced by the mediterranean & south america, w/ asian accents.

located in its own habitat #9b, street 29

facebook.com/gastrobarbotanico AsiaLIFE Cambodia 15

JOLLY AND BRIGHT

LAUGHING FAT MAN GUESTHOUSE The Laughing Fat Man Guesthouse has already earned a solid reputation around town thanks to its friendly ambience. The guesthouse offers single and twin rooms, with either a fan or air-conditioning. Room rates — you can ask for a discount with a sincere smile in return — range from $12 to $20. The restaurant menu displays an extensive list of liquors and alcohol, and the traditional Khmer Curry ($2.50 to $3.50 depending on side dishes) is excellent. For a comfortable stay and possible anti-depression classes, check out the Laughing Fat Man Guesthouse.

Laughing Fat Man Guesthouse, 63 Street 172, Tel: 023 636 5591. Doors open at 7am and close at midnight.

DRINK LIKE A FISH

AQUARIUM

Aquarium is yet another good addition to Phnom Penh’s everexpanding list of bars. Located a couple of blocks behind the Cellcard office on Sihanouk Boulevard, its bluish night lights make it an easy find. Staff mix a range of cocktails and drinks and serve a selection of snacks. An outdoor seating area is available for smokers. With musical acts performing regularly at the venue and able to play song requests, Aquarium will not disappoint.

Aquarium, 23 Street 55, corner Street 254. Tel: 077 536 342.

Pharmacy & Beauty store Services - International cosmetic brands - Largest selection of medicines with original brand products - Professional advice - Central locations in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap.

www.ucarepharma.com

16 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

DISPATCHES

Travel news from around the region and beyond

Natural Beauty

Scheduled to open Dec. 1, Regent Phuket Cape Panwa hotel promises to offer luxury in a stunning location. Cape Panwa is a secluded bay on the lesserknown southeastern tip of Phuket, which contains rubber and palm plantations and lush hills providing magnificent views of the Andaman Sea. Designed to harmonise with its tropical surroundings, the Regent features its own private beach, a 55-metre infinity pool and two restaurants. Nearby attractions include old Phuket Town, with its quaint Sino-Portuguese shop houses, and Phuket Aquarium at the Marine Biological Centre. For more information, visit regenthotels.com/ EN/Phuket or call +66 76 20 08 00.

Spa Seclusion

The Barai, an award-winning spa, is offering a 'pay two nights get one free' deal. Located next door to Thailand’s Hyatt Regency in Hua Hin, The Barai comes with eight residential spa suites and 18 treatment rooms located near the beach. With architecture to match, spa treatments, massages, yoga sessions, and fitness and lifestyle programs are on offer. Valid for Sunday to Thursday for bookings from Nov. 15 to Dec. 20. Reserve with the offer code BAR008 at +66 22 54 62 00 or thebarai.com.

Early Christmas in Laos

From October to December, stay at Villa Maly in Luang Prabang and experience the Kamu Lodge at half price. Located in the heart of the preserved city, Villa Maly bills itself as a residence, oasis and destination. Once the home of Lao royalty, today Villa Maly is a boutique hotel of tropical flora and rooms of subdued elegance that evoke yesterday’s aristocracy. Hike up Mt Phou Si for a view of the Mekong River, royal palaces, wooden houses, Buddhist wats and saffron-robed monks. Book at villa-maly.com or julien@apple-asia.com.

240PHNOMPENH.COM

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 17

CALENDAR PHNOM PENH NOV

02 NOV

02

Brazilian Beats at the Beeline Arena Bar at 7pm. Lovers of Brazilian music should make a beeline to the Jungle Bar @ the Arena which will host the first Batucada band to visit Cambodia. For more information visit banzaicambodia.com or call 067 71 65 65.

Latino-Gypsy evening as Diego performs at One More Pub in his regular first Friday of the month slot. From 8pm to 10pm at One More Pub, 16E Street 294.

students NOV ISPP have organised

03

a Wipeout-style event, based on the TV game show, in support of an NGO that works with disadvantaged youth through football.

Teams of ten will negotiate a course of crazy obstacles. Designed, organised and run by the students, this event promises to raise laughs as well as funds. All the proceeds from the day’s event will go to Happy Football Cambodia. Team registration (10 people) costs $100. Entry for nonparticipants cost $3. For more information please contact brianwebster@ ispp.edu.kh.

NOV

The final round of the QB Mountain Bikes Championship 2012 will be held in Baset. Registration forms have to be submitted at Flying Bikes 2, corner of street 51 and 154, no later than Nov. 2.

04

At 6pm, Meta House will house Little Kitchen: Cooking for Change. Once a month, people can become acquainted with cuisines and cultures from all around the globe. This month they are inviting attendees to travel with them to the Balkans. All profit from tickets will go to the Cambodian female football league. A limited amount of tickets cost $15. Buy in advance in Meta House or make your reservation at littlekitchenpp@hotmail.com.

10

NOV

Yuthakun Khom Competition. This month 12 Fighters including overseas guests will battle from 6.30pm at the Beeline Arena using a diverse array of moves and almost all body parts in this traditional Cambodian martial art. Price: $1. For more information visit banzaicambodia.com or call 067 71 65 65.

16

NOV

Acclaimed FrenchCambodian graphic novelist Patrick Samnang Mey will launch the English language version of his three-part graphic novel EUGÉNIE' at The Empire on Street 130. It will be the first time the work has been available in the English language. The launch will be accompanied by a small exhibition of prints and Patrick will be signing copies of his book. Drinks specials all night.

16

NOV

Opening on Nov. 6 at 6.30pm, Romeet Gallery on Street 178 presents Freedom with Broom by Nov Cheanick. The artist has used the ”utilitarian and everyday tool” of a broom to paint images which explore notions of reality and also the spaces in which freedom may reside.

06

NOV

Java Café and Gallery will present The Phnom Penh Look: At the Turn of the Millennium from Nov. 8 to Dec. 9. The show features a collection of images of hand-painted hairsalon signs by Jim Tulloch, and a sale of fashion objects

by Friends-International.

Tulloch was inspired to record the original hand-painted hairdressers’signs before they disappeared forever. Opening 6pm to 9pm on Nov. 8, with live 60s Cambodian music.

08

18 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

NOV

NOV

A Clear Pulse, a photography exhibition by Ayako Kimura, will be held at Craft Peace Café on Street 392 from Nov. 17 to Jan. 13. Kimura’s images capture ordinary objects and moments in everyday life to explore ideas of familiarity, revealing unseen elements. An opening event will be held between 2pm to 5pm on Nov. 17. The gallery is open from 9am to 6pm, but closes on Mondays. For more information visit ayakography.com

17

NOV

24

The circus show Phsong Preng by Phare Ponleu Selpak starts at 6pm at Beeline Arena. Young performers get to showcase their skills this month in PPS’s offering. Prebooked tickets cost $5. Unreserved seating costs $3.50. For more information visit banzaicambodia.com or call 067 71 65 65.

Freedom with Broom at Romeet Gallery Nov. 6

EVERY DAY

Yoga classes with Alison and Oskar. For more information, please visit yogaphnompenh. com or enquire at 012 739 284.

Every afternoon Sofitel in Phnom Penh will serve a redthemed afternoon tea from 3pm to 5pm. Tickets cost $25 for sparkling rosé wine, abundant fruits and delights.

EVERY MONDAY

Mad Monday at The Empire, 6pm.

Early morning Ashtanga with Oskar and Vinyasa Flow Yoga with Alison at Yoga Phnom Penh. See yogaphnompenh. com or call 012 739 419/ 012 739 284.

EVERY WEDNESDAY

Drink & Draw at ARTillery, 7pm.

Get your creative engines going with a live model, a couple of drinks and a whole lot of creative fun.

Latin Fever at The Latin Quarter.

Salsa with DJ Jimmy at Equinox on Street 278, Phnom Penh.

Trivia in the garden at The Willow, $2 entry and 7.30pm start.

EVERY THURSDAY

Open Mic at Paddy Rice Irish Sports Bar.

Steak Night at The Empire.

Weekly special at a big discount.

Women’s Night at The Riverhouse.

Swing dancing at Equinox on Street 278, Phnom Penh.

EVERY FRIDAY

Vinyasa Flow, Ashtanga and Beginner Yoga classes at Phnom Penh Yoga. For more information, please visit yogaphnompenh.com or inquire at 012 739 284.

EVERY SATURDAY

Vinayasa Flow Yoga at 10am and Yoga Strength and Tone at 3pm at Phnom Penh Yoga.

For more information, please visit yogaphnompenh.com or enquire at 012 739 284.

EVERY SUNDAY

Sunday Escape Wine Buffet at InterContinental Phnom Penh. Price set at $34 per person including free flow of wine.

Morning, non-denominational Meditation and Buddhist Lecture at Phnom Penh Yoga.

For more information, please visit yogaphnompenh.com or inquire at 012 739 284.

Phnom Penh Hash House Harriers’ run. Meet at 2.15pm at the railway station.

20 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

Photo Essay With preparations well underway for the annual Angkor Photo Festival, to be held in Siem Reap from Dec. 1 to Dec. 8, AsiaLIFE offers a sneak preview of the stunning images set to go on show.

Clockwise from opposite page: Nicolas Lo Calzo / Luzphoto Agency, Morgante, Africa.

Jonathan Saruk / Reportage

by Getty Images, Driving school in Khabul. Thierry Falise, Burmese Shadows , Burma.

Pete Pin / Magnum Foundation, Displaced: The Cambodian Diaspora, USA.

P ho to Essay

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 21

22 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

P h o t o Es s a y

Clockwise from top left: Jan von Holleben / Julien Meijer AssociĂŠs, Dreams Of Flying, Paris. Miti Ruangkritya, Imagining Flood. Athit Perawongmetha, Floods, Bangkok. Rob Hornstra, Sochi Singers, Russia. RĂŠmi Ochlik / IP3 Press, Arab Spring. Alex Masi / Corbis Images, Bhopal Second Disaster, India.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 23

I-Hsuan Chang With classical music gaining new audiences in Cambodia, Simphony Music School’s director I-Hsuan Chang talks to Seth Emmanuel Rinoza about teaching skills to a new generation of music lovers. Photography by Dylan Walker.

As the only classical music school recognised by the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts, Simphony aims to promote music education in Cambodia. Established in mid2010, the school is committed to developing raw talent and taking it to the next level, with students ranging in age from three to sixty years old.

Why was Simphony set up?

The school was conceptualised because of the observation that there was no proper music school established here yet. Our purpose was to teach Cambodians here to professionally learn music. But over time, there were lots of enthusiastic expatriates that were interested in learning too.

There are basically two types of individuals that walk in through our front door: the expatriate parents, who believe that music should be a part of children’s lives, and Cambodians who may already be musicallyknowledgeable in terms of skills and understanding, but who are also looking for more in order to develop their skills. Some want to be able to compose music,

24 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

some want to learn how to read notes. These are just some of the things that they cannot get without proper musical education.

Do you only teach classical music, or do you allow for other genres?

We use a classical music approach, which means that we focus on classical music.

But for teenagers, we try to accommodate their interests as much as we can. We have students walk in and immediately say: “I want to learn to play some Justin Bieber.” We compromise with them through splitting the session, with [both] training and learning some of the songs they actually want to play.

Everybody needs to undergo basic training so that we can rest assured that they will be capable of pursuing whatever they want in the future.

Does learning music at a young age help children in their growth?

In terms of listening ability, they will be able to understand it more naturally. Some kids,

though, are just naturally talented. Some people say, “I cannot sing”, but that’s actually not true. Everyone can sing, but it’s all a matter of training.

When you’re an adult or a teen, you have a tendency to feel a bit shyer about it. Studying music at a later stage in life could make you lose your natural abilities and potential to a certain degree.

How difficult is it to teach children?

Actually, I think children naturally like music. They like the patterns, the movements.

In class they don’t just sit there and play music. That will be very boring for them. If you play or teach them through songs they already know, they would usually end up singing or dancing.

What are some of the challenges you face?

People have different varying concepts of what music is.

Some believe that playing a guitar or being able to sing is music and it ends there. Some believe that studying music is very expensive, and may

not be applicable to the lowincome-family individuals.

What we try to do with Simphony is help promote music and counter these beliefs. We try to show people that there is more to music than meets the eye.

Another is that some parents ask me why their children have to learn music.

I always tell them that music should not be forced upon anyone, especially a child. If the interest is not there, then you cannot force it. But if the interest is there, then you will definitely have to go through the boring parts.

Some kids voice out their displeasure with playing a musical instrument, which eventually ends up with parents concluding that their children are not musically interested, and [they] would pull out their kids from the programme. They need to understand though that whatever their kids learn — like maths or science — there will always be difficulties. But there are lots of parents who cooperate and take us seriously.

Some even come to class with their children. We are very

happy working with them, because we know that their kids learn faster while we are continuously being given their support. They get more out of it as well, where they can play with their kids at home instead of commanding them to go practise.

What are some of your current projects and how do they match with Simphony’s goals?

We are currently working with the Royal University of Fine Arts, where there are a number of very good musicians.

However, there’s a gap — there are some who are naturally very good, but there are also some who are there because they are in a dire, financiallyincapable situation. We are trying to help in building a good foundation for them, so that they can positively progress in their musical endeavours. We are trying to instill unto them that music, whether chosen as a career professionally or not, can and will always be a part of your life. That’s our ultimate goal.

For more information on Simphony Music School, visit simphony.com. kh or call 097 888 8787.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 25

Ambitious young women are breaking barriers in Cambodia.

Bridget Di Certo and Lim Meng Y meet some of the country’s feminists, entrepreneurs and students to investigate the changing role of women in society.

Photography by Dylan Walker.

“I want to be Prime Minister,” declares Chea Chanreaksa, voicing an ambitious goal for a 19-year-old agriculture student from rural Siem Reap. “My mother wanted to be a midwife, but she couldn’t because of the tradition and economics in the family.”

The ‘tradition’ Chanreaksa speaks of is rooted in a 19th century Cambodian code of conduct for women called Cbpab Srei, or law for women. Among other stipulations, the text — written over a number of years by powerful male figures — instructs women not to walk too loudly or risk sounding like lightning.

Entrenched so deeply in society that the text was part of the school curriculum in the 1950s and 1960s, Cbpab Srei has shaped attitudes toward women for much of recent memory. But times are changing and a new generation of educated, ambitious women like Chanreaksa are shaking off the shackles of Cbpab Srei and expecting more from their career than an early entry into domestic duties.

“How can you do anything if you must walk around softly all the time?” says 20-year-old student Tum Sereyroith, her legs crossed on a small plastic chair in the courtyard of the female-only Harpswell Foundation dormitory in Phnom Penh.

As one of the first Cambodian women to study mining engineering, she has little time for walking softly and relishes the opportunity to share her ambition of working in the male-dominated resources industry.

“People think it will be difficult for a girl because we have to work outside with no air conditioning. I don’t care, I’m a girl and I can do it,” she says.

A TIRED TRADITION

Achieving gender equality is a preeminent goal in Cambodia. The national constitution emphasises the equal value of housework and a paid job, and vetoes any form of discrimination against women, according to the Ministry of Women’s Affairs.

In reality, these protections can be aspirations rather than actualities.

Engineering student Sereyroith admits that for many men in her life, her choice of career is difficult to understand. Her motives are constantly questioned and her commitment AsiaLIFE Cambodia 27

to working in a physically, as well as mentally, demanding profession is doubted by those who expect to see a respectable young woman in a clean, indoor job.

According to United Nations Development Program gender advisor Jamila Seftaoui, the stereotype that women cannot be as good as men is still widespread in Cambodia.

With fewer women than men in prestigious positions in business and public administration, they gain limited media exposure and social recognition, leading some to continue to look down on women through a Cbpab Srei-tinted lens.

In modern Cambodia, a woman’s first responsibility is often family care and domestic duties. As men are not quite sharing family care and tasks, women who pursue a professional career can often be lumped with the bulk of chores in addition to their employment obligations, meaning they can struggle to constantly fill two or three different roles, Seftaoui says.

BREAKING THE MOULD

Such obligations can be burdensome for women trying to break into big business, but they are increasingly changing the mould.

Last year, the first Cambodian Women’s Entrepreneurs Association (CWEA) was formed in response to heightened demand from successful businesswomen for a group to address their unique challenges.

Cambodia’s ‘first lady of silk’ and CWEA president Seng Takakneary believes that while a successful woman has a heavy cross to bear, a female's innate determination and durability is a recipe for success.

“I can see that a woman will watch every detail,” she says. “She will never forget her responsibilities to the home, so she will always be successful both in business and family.”

For the businesswoman, financial independence is imperative to breaking out of a traditional role as housewife. “A woman must empower herself economically and then she will always be safe, calm and appreciated by the family,” she says.

Statistics show that females are already doing just that. Last year’s Economic Census of Cambodia indicated that women run more than half of the business establishments in the Kingdom, the majority of which are one or two person smallholdings.

Many argue that continuing to empower women makes good economic sense for a developing country. The UN states that achieving a 70 percent level of women’s participation in the workforce is capable of markedly increasing a country’s Gross Domestic Product.

“Achieving gender equality is a precondition for overcoming poverty, hunger and disease,” the UN’s resident representative Douglas Broderick told a recent female empowerment forum.

28 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

MY STORY

CHROEUNG KANITHA “In general, patients don’t want to be treated by women because they think we are weaker than men,” dentistry student Chroeung Kanitha says on the sidelines of a feminism workshop.

“I want to change that idea.” Kanitha is one of the only women to offer free dental care to prisoners in Phnom Penh’s correctional facilities, but she says she never feels frightened by her clientele.“Our generous contribution can change the prisoners’ mind from being a bad person into being a good person.” The idea of putting change into action inspired 21-year-old Kanitha to call herself a feminist. “I always see that there is still much more to do and I must use every opportunity to spread the idea of feminism and gender equality,” she says.

SREI FEMINIST

The understanding of gender equality and feminist principles is also evolving, according to the chair of Cambodian Young Women’s Empowerment Network, Chan Sophoan.

“Many people at the grassroots level would not at all understand what it is to be a feminist,” says the 28-year-old, who is helping a group of young women learn about feminist theory.

For Sophoan, the best formula is to keep it simple. “If a woman is acting to participate in society through being involved actively with her community it makes them a feminist,” she explains. “For us, feminism and gender equality are the same things.”

Sophoan contends that using culture and tradition as excuses for gender inequality are of waning relevance for women in an increasingly modern and educated society.

“Every country has a different culture, so gender equality will not look exactly the same everywhere,” she says. “We need to mainstream gender equality into our Cambodian culture ... And it is not ‘cultural’ for women to be lower than men at all.

Our culture is not the problem — it’s the people.”

Author Trudy Jacobsen argues in her book Lost Goddess: The Denial of Female Power in Cambodian History that Cbpab Srei is a biased invention of the role of Cambodian females who, throughout the Angkor Empire, were highly respected, powerful and independent. But even for women, feminist concepts can be hard to digest.

“Feminism is so new to me, so I understand it simply as the chance to reach gender equality and to promote women to

“FEMINISM IS SO NEW TO ME, SO I UNDERSTAND IT SIMPLY AS THE CHANCE TO REACH GENDER EQUALITY AND TO PROMOTE WOMEN TO BE RESPECTED”

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 29

“PEOPLE THINK IT WILL BE DIFFICULT FOR A GIRL BECAUSE WE HAVE TO WORK OUTSIDE WITH NO AIR CONDITIONING. I DON’T CARE, I’M A GIRL AND I CAN DO IT” 30 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

MY STORY

SENG TAKAKNEARY “Cambodians have the slogan that women have to stay home and look after their kitchen,” Cambodian Women Entrepreneur’s Association president Seng Takakneary says, sitting in the foyer of her hotel Villa Salt in Phnom Penh. “But this is advice from the old people who don’t know the different ways a woman can look after her kitchen.” Takakneary should know all about the ways a woman can take care of 'her kitchen'. Her Cambodian silk business SentoSa Silk is about to break into every ASEAN country over the next two years. “I started out in 2004 with just two tailors, no business plan, no marketing plan,” the businesswoman says. “At the start my husband did not support me. Male support for successful women is still a big problem,” the working mother adds.

As her unstoppable success garnered increasing attention, her husband decided to see what all the fuss was about. “When he came to see what was going on, that changed his mind!”

be respected,” 24-year-old Sambath Thida says, as her group discusses the cultural acceptance of contraception at a feminist workshop. “In Khmer, there is no word for gender and a very low concept of gender equality.”

Rural villagers and men would have the most trouble understanding the concept of gender equality, Thida believes.

“Men in provincial or isolated areas might not know about this at all. Some young men in Phnom Penh might, but mostly not,” she says. “We see all the focus on women but I think sometimes they forget about the male group — the group that is keeping women down.”

TARGETING MEN

Experts say that while vital work is being invested into improving the roles of women in society, with bodies like the UN working at a policy level to bring gender issues to the fore, it is equally crucial to work with men to counter negative stereotypes.

The Ministry of Women’s Affairs is taking the social temperature of men in respect of women’s roles. As part of a 'gender unawareness' drive by the Ministry, men in the provinces were asked to describe their wives’ jobs.

“Those whose wives [were] having paid jobs would proudly give the answer. For the same question, many husbands with housewife spouses would respond that ‘my wife stays at home and does nothing',” says Cambodian Secretary of State for Women’s Affairs Khim Chamroeun. “Many still don’t value housework and [a] paid job equally.”

UN Population Fund representative Marc Derveeuw says it is “crucial” that men are involved in gender equality initiatives, but limited resources often restrict such moves.

For businesswoman Takakneary, to change a man’s attitude you need to introduce him to a woman’s world.

A lot of curious men attend networking events of the newly-formed women’s entrepreneur group. “Men talk, and this means that when they are sitting around they are talking to each other about each one’s wife, and then they slowly start to understand the women’s world,” she says.

FIGHTING FOR THEIR RIGHTS

A sad truth remains that for some Cambodian women violence is a part of their world — either through domestic abuse or a risk of exploitation. Fighting such practices is one of the key initiatives for the Ministry of Women’s Affairs in helping to better the situation of Cambodian women and girls.

“A lot needs to, and can be, done on women’s awareness about what is acceptable and what is not acceptable,” Derveeuw says of the frequently accepted or ignored crime of gender-based violence.

Women’s security fears can also play a part in access to education in some areas, students contend. Chea Chanreaksa says that in her experience, the gender gap in school enrolments for rural areas isn’t just about a preference for educating boys over girls, but also fears for personal security.

“I started walking to school by myself when I was six. When you are in the provinces the first problem is security,” Chanreaksa says. “Even now, I am studying agriculture and I should stay out in the field, work and sleep in the field, but I cannot. Men have the opportunity to go everywhere.”

Despite such obstacles, the United Nations Children's Fund (UNICEF) says there have been large improvements in girls’ education in Cambodia, as measured by the gender parity index. This is in part thanks to an overall increase in the number of primary and lower secondary schools, reduced poverty levels and increased government support for education.

UNICEF hopes that by keeping women in schools any remaining educational disparities will reduce in the near future.

The Siem Reap agriculture student who aims for top office is just one example of the rewards and confidence that such education can bring. “Of course a woman can run the country,” she says with a smile.

Special thanks goes to the young women featured in these photographs: Chroeung Chakrya, Chroeung Kanitha, Ouk Sam Ath, Houn Nalin and Seng Takakneary.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 31

32 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

A Legend of Dance Iconic Cambodian dancer Em Theay helped pioneer the restoration of classical dance after the Khmer Rouge regime. Chhay C. Sov speaks to the octogenarian about her life and discovers how she was given her name by Cambodia’s late King Father Norodom Sihanouk. Photography by Conor Wall.

Age seems just a number for Em Theay, an 81-year-old specialist in classical Cambodian dance forms such as Preah Reachchatroub and Lakhon Ruom. After a lifetime of dancing, her passion and worship for the profession are clear.

The veteran of Cambodian dance has been exposed to performing arts since childhood. From the age of six her father, a personal servant of the royal family, and her mother, the royal chef, brought her to Cambodia’s royal palace to watch dancers perform.

“One day the Father-King Norodom Sihanouk saw me dancing and His Majesty later told his mother, Queen Sisowath Kossamak, about my dancing talents,” she recalls. “That was the turning point of my life. The Queen then picked me up for the royal dancing class, and that was the time I started my dancing career.”

It was not only her profession that began thanks to Cambodia’s monarchy. Her name also has roots in the palace. “Once, the Father-King saw me walking slowly in baby steps, just like the Kontheay (a turtle). That is why I was later called as Theay,” she says.

In the 1930s, when Em Theay was a child, she was one of hundreds of students who took royal dancing classes. Pupils were first taught to dance the basic roles of many Cambodian classical dances — the giant, the monkey, the man and the woman — before being categorised based on their strongest talent.

“I was selected for the giant role, which is commonly known as the most difficult and the most highly

respected one among the four,” Em Theay remembers. After just one year of learning, she started performing before moving on to more difficult and complex dances.

By her early 20s, she was a versatile dancer. “I did both performing and teaching to [the] younger generation. I danced in national festivals for the public and welcoming ceremonies for foreign delegates,” she says. “I had almost one child every year, and while pregnant I could still do dancing.”

However, the political turmoil that was to engulf Cambodia soon made its mark.

When the Khmer Rouge took over the country in 1975, Em Theay was evacuated to Battambang province.

Like many other Cambodians, she suffered from overwork, malnutrition and fear of death. Dance would prove her salvation.

“I remember that one day I was called … to go to a village, which later on I knew was being taken to execution,” she says sadly. “Just when I was about to leave, the head of the unit eliminated my name from the list for the reason that he wanted me to stay to entertain people.”

After collapsing in a field while dancing, she was tasked with bringing up children — a less arduous role — and survived the regime.

After the Khmer Rouge were overthrown in 1979, many surviving artists returned to their previous occupations. Em Theay was the first to arrive back in Phnom Penh.

“There was nothing much left there. No materials, no dancing tutorials, and most of our colleagues died — so everything was a new beginning,” she says.

With an estimated one in ten classical dancers having survived, the process of restoring the art form was difficult. The

artists “recorded each single dancing movement according to our memory” and, little by little, the dances were reborn.

Since then, the octogenarian has taught hundreds of students. Her four children are professors specialising in performing arts, while eight of her grandchildren are building careers in the arts along with ten of her greatgrandchildren.

“I am excited to see some younger generation fascinated in learning dancing because it is essentially reflected in Cambodians' polite and gentle behaviour — such as the sompeas, which is often taken for granted in contemporary society,” she says, comparing classical dance to the composition of words, with each movement representing a different letter.

Her oldest daughter Thon Kim Ang, also known as Preap, has not only followed in her mother’s footsteps as a classical dancer but also played the role of her mother in an autobiographical dance that has been performed throughout the world over the last 11 years.

“My mother is the first to recover previous glory of Cambodian classical dance,” she explains, calling her an “inspirational icon” of classical dance for younger generations.

For Em Theay, the skills that she has perfected through her lifetime represent not only an art form, but an identity.

“The classical dance is like the Khmer identity, so wherever we go, people can identify that we are Khmer people at the first glance at our behaviour,” she explains.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 33

Recycling Cambodia

Intrigued by the life stories hidden within Phnom Penh’s 'white noise', Colombian-Australian photographer Erika Pineros documented the life of one family and their search for recyclable goods.

Erika Pineros: This project aims to highlight those amazing people who live behind the shadows. In a city where it’s easy to live in a bubble, Rith’s story and the kindness of his family — despite the hardships of their daily treasure hunting — are sweet reminders that people often put value on what is worthless.

Ever since their house in the countryside burned down a few years ago, Rith, a 52-year-old farmer, his wife Sok and their two youngest children Srey Roth and Nak, wander the streets of Phnom Penh looking for recyclable material to resell in order to make a living.

34 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

Their route includes most tourist attractions in Phnom Penh. From Tuol Sleng genocide museum to the royal palace, they announce their arrival by singing ‘etchay, etchay’ and honking a cornet — the signature sound for collectors.

This family’s cart is not like any other in the city. It has been carefully decorated with ornaments such as Chinese lanterns and an umbrella, which entertain and provide shade for the children who spend most of the day inside the cart.

“The weather makes it a tough job. We get wet when it rains and when it’s too hot sometimes we get bad headaches. Then we

have to stop, take a break and start again,” Rith explains.

“But I like it. It gives us the freedom to go to back to our province during plantation and harvest seasons. It also provides a daily income. We don’t have to wait for pay day.

And we can also look after the children while we work,” he adds.

Bottles, cardboard, paper and metal scraps are some of the precious materials hunted on their daily journey. Despite the meticulous inspection of the bins they find on their way, most of their collected material comes from housewives and housemaids, who resell it by the kilogram to Rith and his family.

Once their carts are full, materials are taken to collection centres to be sold by weight. Tins and cans reach the best prices at $1 per kilo. Cardboard, on the other hand, only reaches 400 riels. Depending on where they collect the material from, the family can make from 7,000 to 10,000 riels profit on an average day. Sometimes nothing.

Spurred to move to Phnom Penh to save money to rebuild their home, Rith and his family hope to return to their homeland.

“When I go to my rice field, everything is easy. I am a farmer — that is my real profession. It is what I like,” he says.

To view more of the photographer’s work visit erikapineros.com

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 35

RIDING THE CRIME WAVE

Everyone has a good book in them, so they say. Asia’s first English-language crime publishing house looks set to put that adage to the test. Words by Mark Bibby Jackson, photography by Chatti Phal.

36 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

The setting is hardly classic noir. A Bangkok sports bar just before noon, my source has a bottle of water in front of him, I a cup of black coffee. Our conversation flows naturally rather than being weighted down with unspoken innuendo.

Then again we are here to talk about crime fiction rather than create it.

“Most of the books are terrible,” writer Tom Vater says of the spate of publications he calls ‘bargirl genre’ on sale in shops in Bangkok and across the region. “They are badly printed, the fonts are awful and the stories are just these endless sob stories about the bargirl scene here.”

As a great reader of crime fiction, Vater felt there must be something better. Together with publisher Hans Kemp, the seasoned author — who recently penned a crime mystery set in Cambodia — decided to establish Crime Wave Press, Asia’s first Englishlanguage publishing house devoted to crime fiction.

The two were working together on Sacred Skin, a nonfiction book about Thailand’s tattoos, when they came up with the idea.

“What me and Hans thought was print book sales are going down, eBook sales are going up, and a new publishing house that has a little bit of a maverick attitude …. can offer something to authors that can really write,” he says.

Vater refers to traditional publishing houses as “dinosaurs” struggling to get to grips with new technology such as eBooks, though he adds that such technology has its own pitfalls.

“The problem with eBooks is that there is no gatekeeper,” he says. “Anyone can write a book now, format it and put it on Amazon. The quality is often rather low.”

This is where Crime Wave Press comes in to sort the wheat from the chaff, publishing a select series of crime thrillers under a label readers can trust.

The aim is to publish 20 titles over the next few years, either as eBooks, print on demand or conventional print publishing.

Though only launched officially last month at the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival in Bali, where he participated in three sold out panel discussions, Vater is already receiving two to three manuscripts a week; all of which he reads himself. Some, however, do not fit into the specific genre of the publishing house.

“We had 120,000 words on Satanism the other day,” he says. “Non-fiction.”

Satanic verses aside, Crime Wave will consider any full manuscript (preferably 80,000 to 100,000 words) relating to crime fiction that has an Asian angle. Vater is particularly keen on receiving novels based in China or Japan, as Crime Wave seeks to prove its credentials on a pan-Asian, rather than a Southeast Asian, basis. The publishing house is based in Hong Kong.

In addition to having their book edited by Vater, authors benefit from the network of connections developed by Kemp during his 10 years of publishing books, such as the popular photography title Carrying Cambodia, produced under the Visionary World label.

At the time of our interview

"...PRINT BOOK SALES ARE GOING DOWN, EBOOK SALES ARE GOING UP, AND A NEW PUBLISHING HOUSE THAT HAS A LITTLE BIT OF A MAVERICK ATTITUDE …. CAN OFFER SOMETHING TO AUTHORS THAT CAN REALLY WRITE.”

Kemp was at the Frankfurt Book Fair promoting Crime Wave’s publications.

One of the first books published by Crime Wave is Vater’s own work, The Cambodia Book of the Dead, a crime mystery set in 2001 — the year Vater first visited the country.

He believes that Cambodia, like Thailand, affords great opportunities for crime writers.

“It makes an excellent backdrop for … crime novels with a dark, twisted tale because there are plenty of things in Cambodia which are dark and twisted,” he says.

Recently, Crime Wave sold the international rights for The Cambodia Book of the Dead to British publishing house Exhibit A, while another of its books, The Devil’s Road to Kathmandu, will be published in Spain early

next year.

“We’re really pleased that our first two titles have been picked up straight away,” Vater says.

“The industry is taking note of what we are doing.”

Negotiations are also underway to publish a thriller about Phnom Penh, and another set in Thailand at the time of the Vietnam War, according to Vater.

With the recent explosion of fiction labelled Asian Noir, including Christopher G Moore’s compilation of short stories entitled Bangkok Noir, the launch of Crime Wave seems particularly well-timed.

However, Vater is quick to point out that most of these works are whodunnits or crime fiction that technically belong more to the tense Hard Boiled detective fiction of American authors such as Raymond Chandler and Dashiell Hammett, rather than the Noir fiction popularised by subsequent writers such as David Goodis, Jim Thompson and James M Cain.

“The term Asian Noir … seems to suit more the backdrop of those countries … than the actual literature itself,” he says.

“In the Noir of the 40s and 50s the main protagonist is usually a loser for whom life will get worse throughout the book and then everything will collapse.”

Then Vater adds, with a smile totally out of keeping with the fiction he adores, “but Asian Hard Boiled doesn’t sound as good, maybe.”

Those interested in submitting a manuscript for consideration by Crime Wave Press should visit: crimewavepress.com

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 37

With a national competition setting the bar for Cambodian cocktail-making, Daniel Riegler meets the country’s newly-crowned top bartender and discovers a recipe for success. Photography by Dylan Walker.

Cocktails and dreams 38 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

It was a setting straight out of a Tom Cruise film. Over the course of three days, the best of the best gathered from all across Cambodia for one purpose: to become the Top Gun in their field.

The reality was more Bryan Flanagan in Cocktail than Maverick in Top Gun, with competitions taking place at the 2012 CamFood and CamHotel expos. Organised by Cambodia Restaurant Association, participants engaged in spirited contests showcasing talent from across the hospitality industry, from fruit carving to bed making.

As attendees browsed everything from artificial grass to the latest in soft-serve ice cream technology and Grand Crus Bordeaux tastings, wouldbe mixologists squared off in front of a panel of judges as part of the bartending rounds.

Grading was based on technical skill and the final product, with entrants required to produce a ‘mocktail’ along with an original Cambodian cocktail.

Competition was fierce but cash, and more importantly, glory, went to runners up Long Raday of Sofitel Phnom Penh and Sith Rith of Raffles Le Royal,

who took bronze and silver prizes respectively.

Gold was claimed by Noun Phanet, of Le Moon rooftop bar on top of Amanjaya Hotel in Phnom Penh.

Though proud of her victory, she has not let fame go to her head and can still be found every evening doing what she does best behind the bar.

Ask nicely and she might shake together her showcase concoction, the self-created ‘Khmer Lady’. Aptly named for its sweet and sour qualities, the drink went through no less than four previous incarnations before she was satisfied with her blend. It certainly does not lose points for originality, including Cambodian rice wine, passionfruit, pineapple juice, lemon juice, mint, bubblegum syrup and angostura bitters.

The sight of Cambodia’s best shaking their way to a win provides just a taste of cocktail culture in Asia, where mixologists are mastering innovative techniques to create ground-breaking drinks. One such man is Matt Myers, who can be found at Vietnam’s MGM Grand Ho Tram and previously worked at the famous Bellagio hotel in Las Vegas.

“I think of making great cocktails as in playing the violin, doing an oil painting, using clay to make a sculpture, an artisan chef.”

“It is an artistic expression of myself. Having the right weight, the right finish on your palate, the right beverage for the right occasion,” he told AsiaLIFE Ho Chi Minh earlier this year. “I think of making great cocktails as in playing the violin, doing an oil painting, using clay to make a sculpture, an artisan chef.”

Myers is pushing boundaries by experimenting with a cabinet of bizarre refreshments. He has a vision to transform Vietnam’s beverage culture. His style focuses on Asian ingredients: fresh yuzu from Japan (similar to mandarin), Japanese matcha (green tea powder), hibiscus, ginger, lime leaf, lemongrass.

“Back in Las Vegas, I think people forget it’s a melting pot, so I like my cocktails to reflect that,” he says. “I use all kinds of interesting stuff: star anise, a good amount of molecular techniques like liquid nitrogen, encapsulated purees — like a peach puree that looks like an egg yolk — or homemade fruit caviar that generally freaks people out.”

The mixology trend is starting to take off in Cambodia. Last month, Sofitel brought in Brisbane-based Pedro Williams for a stint at their bar, hosting a series of cocktail classes unveiling the finer points of making drinks. New venue Doors Music + Tapas has brought in mixologist Din Hassan from Singapore.

Local restaurants such as Deco are also placing a greater emphasis on cocktails. “We focus mainly on the classics but making sure they are done properly,” explains Deco’s Caspar Von Hofmannsthal.

A Dark and Stormy is made from home brewed ginger beer, while the house signature Spring Blossom features Soju with homemade jasmine and lychee syrup. “We like to experiment with making our own bitters, cordials and liquors from local fruits and spices,” he adds.

Back behind the rooftop bar overlooking the Tonle Sap, Noun Phanet is still honing her trade and devotes regular practise time to shaking and pouring techniques, in addition to her nightly bartending duties. “My favourite thing is to see people enjoying the cocktails I make,” she says.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 39

Battlefield Remembered Paul Hellweg takes a trip around the battlefields of Dien Bien Phu in north-western Vietnam and finds peace among the ruins of war. Photographs by Walter Pearson.

Dien Bien Phu is a hauntingly beautiful and unspoiled mountain valley with only limited development, as yet undiscovered by Kentucky Fried Chicken or Pizza Hut. The rustic beauty, clean air, lush rice paddies and green hillsides evoke visions of Shangri-La, but paradise can’t last forever. The more who visit, the quicker it falls from grace.

Dien Bien Phu isn’t everyone’s idea of paradise. Certainly not the French who experienced Waterloo déjà vu on the valley floor and surrounding foothills in a spring 1954 battle, setting in motion a string of repercussions 40 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

that led to French withdrawal from Indochina and, eventually, to the Vietnam War. Two friends and I — all three of us military history buffs — toured Dien Bien Phu’s battlefields in September.

Having read Bernard Fall’s classic account of the 1954 battle, Hell in a Very Small Place, the aptness of the title becomes obvious. I’d always thought the book’s title referred to the French perspective, but hiking the steep hillsides the Viet Minh were forced to charge up under withering fire, it’s clear that hell here wasn’t just for the defeated.

Today, visitors can fall in love with the town of Dien Bien, the better part of which has been built over and around the decades-old French defensive positions. One has to wind through fruit and vegetable stalls to view the site where the French artillery commander committed suicide because he had derisively under-estimated the Viet Minh’s ability to haul heavy artillery into the valley.

Children stride atop the corrugated-steel roof of General de Castries’ underground command post. We see youngsters everywhere, sitting and playing on rusted relics of the battle; American-made Chaffee tanks, American 105mm howitzers and broken pieces of downed aircraft.

Monuments commemorating battle sites dot the entire area, each a name and legend unto itself: Beatrice, Dominique, Elaine, Gabrielle, Isabelle, and others. Dien Bien is located in a 20-kilometre-long valley, with the French headquarters and airfield down in the flatlands. With the sole exception of distant Isabelle, the French outer defences were on a series of surrounding knolls bearing the aforementioned women’s names. Beatrice fell first, Gabrielle next, but all endure in myth and history.

Of the many monuments, one of the most tragic denotes where 444 H’mong women and children were killed in a French bombing attack, presumably by accident as their men were fighting for the French. These memorials, but especially the H’mong one, prompt self-reflective contemplation. I wouldn’t have come to Dien Bien Phu and been exposed to so much beauty were it not for the many thousands who perished here.

HISTORIC PAST The battle of Dien Bien Phu took place near the Lao border and has been described as a decisive engagement in the first Indochina war of 1946 to 1954. The French and the Viet Minh clashed at the outpost where, according the Encyclopaedia Britannica, the French had occupied the town in an attempt to cut off nationalist supply lines into Laos. The base fell on May 7, 1954.

Another sobering site is the immaculately-groomed Dien Bien Phu cemetery. Hundreds of Viet Minh dead are buried here, almost all of whom are unknown soldiers.

Only four of the graves bear names. The others are laid out in neat rows. The front of each tombstone is blank except for identical gold stars within red circles. A few tombstones have names engraved on the back, added by relatives so desperate to find loved ones that they hired clairvoyants to find the correct grave.

History is the main attraction here, but the allure of presentday Dien Bien is not limited to quiet testimonials to past sacrifice and loss. The town provides a refreshing respite from the hustle and bustle of cities such as Ho Chi Minh City.

The streets in Dien Bien are wider with less traffic.

Most of the locals are not Vietnamese. Of all the ethnic groups, Thai and H’mong are the most prevalent. The climax of our trip is a Thai feast arranged by Walter Pearson of Monkey Bridge Tours. Ever the finicky eater, I am hesitant to try the jerked water buffalo, but once I start, I have trouble stopping.

The feast is bookmarked with rice wine and a dance troupe of 11 women clad in traditional black and red Thai dresses with green sashes and brightly embroidered headbands.

Seemingly the whole village turns out to enjoy the performance, and our somewhat tipsy rendition of ‘Waltzing Matilda’ is a genuine crowdpleaser. I’ll be going back, soon I hope.

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A Day in the Life of Marunouchi With barely a day to spend in Tokyo, one of the largest cities in the world, Mark Bibby Jackson decides to invest his time in the financial district of Marunouchi and the Imperial Gardens to its west. Photography by Mark Bibby Jackson.

My preconceived perception of Tokyo was one of skyscrapers, neon signs and sushi. But by midday on my first day in this metropolis of some 13 million people, I found myself sitting in an oasis of calm surrounded by a small pond, herbaceous borders and ancient trees. I could have been in London if it were not for the humidity.

A short walk from Tokyo Station, the East Gardens of the Imperial Palace stand on the site of the former Edo Castle, which dates back to 1603 when the Tokugawa Shoguns founded their capital here.

Covering some 210,000 square metres, the gardens were part of a regeneration project for the Imperial Palace and opened to the public in 1968.

Entering through Otemon Gate, the first noise that greets me is that of young children practising their martial arts in a small pagoda partly secluded by some hedges. Opposite, the small Museum of the Imperial Collections (Sannomaru Shozokan) exhibits Yamaguchi Soken hanging scrolls from the mid-Edo period of the 18th century. A small building ahead is the first of many bansho dotted throughout the gardens. These were sentry posts for the samurai that protected the Emperor and the Imperial Palace.

However, it is not the many historical relics that draw my attention, but the beautiful ornamental gardens. More like a London park than New York’s Central Park, they provide a perfect respite for the weary office worker.

Even though she works just around the corner, today is the first time Nadisa has visited the gardens. “I have come here 42 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

because I find it very relaxing,” she says.

Nadisa reminds me of when I used to slip off from the office at lunchtime for a leisurely stroll around London’s St James Park to eat a sandwich and watch the pelicans. There are no pelicans here and the sandwiches have morphed into sushi rolls, but many office workers have joined Nadisa to take advantage of a calm space in the heart of the city.

The soft rumble of the distant traffic is a reminder of the world that awaits us outside.

A steep slope (Shiomi-zaka) leads from the Ninomaru (second citadel) area of the gardens to the Honmaru (inner citadel) area.

The remains of a tower provides a perfect vantage point to look down on Ohoku, a manicured lawn where the Honmaru Gotun Palace was situated in Imperial times. In former times you could see the sea from here, something I find hard to envisage as I cast my eye over Tokyo’s sprawling city landscape.

Droves of tourists and families are taking advantage of the picnic-friendly environment.

Kyoko Tsukahra, 74, lives about an hour from Tokyo. She visits the gardens once or twice a year. “I want to walk around the Imperial Gardens,” she says. “It is a very calm and beautiful place. I like it very much.”

The gardens lie to the west of Marunouchi. Meaning 'inside the circle', its name refers to a time when the area lay within the outer moat of the Imperial Palace. Now one of the city’s main financial centres and the headquarters for Japan’s three largest banks, the district is seeing something of a revival as a cultural and culinary hub.

At the heart of this area lies

Right on queue, a group of office workers come in and order a round of cold Asahi. Whether it’s London, Tokyo or Bangkok, it seems there is one thing that everyone fancies after a hard day’s work.

Marunouchi-Nakadori: a tree-lined street that would not look lost in Manhattan, where designer clothes shops nestle beside street-side bistros. With tapas seemingly de rigueur here, it is easy to forget that you are in the Far East rather than Upper East Side.

Art spills out onto the street, with bench sculptures and miniature gardens invigorating the well-trod pavements. To the rear of the Mitsubishi Ichigokan Museum — itself a beautiful red-brick building dating back to 1894 with a wonderful café attached — is Brick Square. At least on this sunny day, the small, enclosed garden is full of office workers enjoying an extended lunch. Wine bars, waffle shops and yet more tapas indicate that there is more to Tokyo cuisine than raw fish and glutinous rice.

The night before I had arrived via the Tokyo Monorail from Haneda Airport to the main Tokyo Station, changing at Hamamatsucho. Droves of commuters stood taking photographs of the admittedly impressive structure. It was only later I learned my visit coincided with the grand reopening of the station that had been kept under cover for five years. The project restored the 98-year-old station to its pre-war beauty.

As the sun begins to set, I return to the station to reacquaint myself with the hordes gathered outside, this time with my camera in hand. It is the first time I have seen more people gathered outside a station than huddled inside on overcrowded platforms and concourses.

Although Marunouchi may lack the nightlife options of Roppongi or Shinjuku, it has a post-work wining and dining atmosphere appropriate for a financial district.

Bypassing the inviting restaurants, such as Garb and Trattoria Pagliaccio with their siren offers of vintage wines and tuna steaks, I head for Kanpachi, a sushi restaurant that has been recommended by the local tourist centre. Located at the base of the Kunigiwa Shopping Mall, Kanpachi is empty. My total lack of Japanese proves a problem as I point at various fish hopeful that I have ordered octopus and tuna.

The fish come as anticipated, but the miso soup has a school of baby clams buried in its depths.

This does not detract from the

overall experience.

Leaving far from replete — this is Japanese cuisine, after all — I walk to neighbouring Cava. Over a glass of Japanese malt whisky I chat with one of the managers, Tony, who spent a few years in New York. The main attraction of the place is the cheap prices — all its drinks are 380 yen ($5). “It’s popular with local people after work,” he says.

Right on queue, a group of office workers come in and order a round of cold Asahi. Whether it’s London, Tokyo or Bangkok, it seems there is one thing everyone fancies after a hard day’s work.

How To Get There:

Dragonair now offers 10 flights from Phnom Penh to Hong Kong

a week, with improved connections via sister airline Cathay Pacific to 168 destinations, including six Japanese cities. The two airlines recently started serving the new Haneda International Airport, located near to Tokyo city centre.

Both airlines offer check-in from Phnom Penh through to Japan, as they do with all destinations served by the airline group. With two hours and forty minutes flying time to Hong Kong and four hours and twenty minute from Hong Kong to Tokyo, the airlines say they offer the shortest travel time between Phnom Penh and Tokyo Haneda. Tickets cost from $534++ return and from $1,519++ return for Business Class.

A stopover in Hong Kong costs $50. Open-jaw options are at no additional cost. Visit dragonair.com/ kh for more details.

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Fit for a King On his first visit to Tokyo, Mark Bibby Jackson finds the Palace Hotel a right royal place to rest for a couple of nights.

Few hotels reflect the changing nature of Tokyo better than the Palace Hotel, which re-opened in May this year. The building stands on the same site as the Hotel Teiko, a state-owned and government-run hotel that launched in 1947. It began operations as the Palace Hotel in 1961, before being closed in 2009 as part of a $1.2 billion redevelopment.

Located close to the Imperial Palace and Gardens, the hotel’s design concept is to create a 'grand residence' incorporating the modern with the old. One example is the Royal Bar, which uses the same counter as the original Palace Hotel. In the 44 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

1960s, chief bartender Kiyoshi Imai was known as ‘Mr Martini’ and his bar was carved to the perfect height for enjoying 007’s favourite tipple.

The first view I see from my suite’s balcony is of Tokyo’s dramatic nightscape, but upon awakening, I notice the Imperial Gardens to my right. It is an unusually green vista for this most modern of cities. The gardens played a significant role in the hotel’s design, created by Australian Terry McGinnity.

McGinnity apparently spent hours walking through the gardens for inspiration.

Traditional Japanese scenery is used throughout the hotel, from

the stone clad exterior to the leaf motif of the carpeting and down to the fine details of the ten restaurants and bar.

The counter at the Lounge Bar Privé is shaped like a bay-leaf, a reminder of the park just outside. The external environment also forms a strong feature in the design of the 290 rooms, all of which afford views over the gardens as well as the city’s skyline.

On one morning I am shown around the hotel’s ten dining alternatives. The Palace is certainly aiming for the stars, Michelin ones, having partnered with Patrick Henriroux, who runs the two-star La Pyramide in Vienne, France, and Shinji Kanesaka, owner of Ginza’s two-star Sushi Kanesaka. The hotel also has tempura and teppanyaki restaurants that prove popular with local office workers.

Perhaps the most unusual element of the hotel is the Evian Spa Tokyo, on the fifth floor. It

is the first of its type in Japan and only the second in the world outside of France. With each of the five treatment rooms and spa suites named after an Alpine peak, I take a dip in the internal pool and find a bottle of Evian placed beside my lounger.

However, it is in the bedroom that hotels ultimately succeed or fail, and here the Palace demonstrates imperial infallibility.

After a luxuriant bath, I crank up the air con and wrap myself up in the Imbari bath towels — renowned throughout Japan for their quality — before heading for bed.

The hotel literature claims the linen has a 300-thread count. Before I can count that far, I fall asleep. New York may be the city that never sleeps but, at least at the Palace Hotel, Tokyo affords the most peaceful rest.

For more information on the Palace Hotel Tokyo, visit www. palacehoteltokyo.com

Chuck Norris Dim Sum First of all, lower your expectations. It’s Chuck Norris Dim Sum’s soft opening and the staff are learning.

Be nice to them or Chuck Norris will 'kick you in the face', the laminated menu at the bespoke dim sum haunt explains.

Warhol-esque portraits of the famous tough guy adorn the walls of the hipster chic bar on Street 51. The imagery is in sharp juxtaposition to the record collection, which Chuck Norris appears to have lifted from his younger sister and put on rotation at the bar.

Diners can sit underneath a dumbbell mounted to the wall and sway to Leona Lewis’s ‘Bleeding Love’, while scoffing the ten dim sum items that appear on the menu along 46 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

with beer, whisky and vodka.

The 'tea is free bitches'.

Steaming Shrimp Chop dumplings ($2.50 for four) come in a traditional wooden basket. Thankfully not served with a Norris-style roundhouse kick to the mouth, they prove fresh and flavoursome, not chewy.

The menu’s four ‘Chuck Norris Approved’ dim sum options are a little pricier than standard items, but the moist Spicy Pork Momo Buns ($2.90 for four) are worth the splurge, proving a hit with a piquant bite.

Less can be said for the Wasabi Shrimp Volcano ($2.50 for three). Inoffensive, but hardly delectable, the dumplings have too little wasabi dotted on top to induce

Combine a legendary American martial arts expert, Chinese cuisine and Cambodia, and you might end up with Chuck Norris Dim Sum. Bridget Di Certo checks out one of Phnom Penh’s most inspired eateries. Photography by Dylan Walker.

Be nice to them or Chuck Norris will 'kick you in the face' theatrical fire breathing.

However, another Chuck Norris approved item, the Pork Demon dumpling ($2.90 for two), contains a fabulous viscous soup of glazed pork and onion, though the eatery has perhaps over estimated the chopstick abilities of its clientele. With no western cutlery available, napkins and painstaking consumption are

the name of the game for the soupy offering.

Early in the evening service is fast and friendly. Given the joint’s obvious appeal as a late night food stop off, one would hope Norris has taught his staff the trick about never sleeping, just waiting.

For those lining up for late night lashings of dim sum, be warned there's a compulsory five percent tip on all bills.

So don’t rock up with only riel. While it won’t blow your socks off, the dim sum is tasty and good value for money. As Norris says, “get sum”.

Chuck Norris Dim Sum, Golden Sorya Mall, Street 51, Phnom Penh. Open from 7pm to 5am. Tel: 092 870 585. Dim sum is buy one get one free during the 7pm to 9pm happy hour.

Marum Walking into Marum’s contemporary garden in Siem Reap, visitors will likely be welcomed by smartly turned out training staff. The sweet touch sets the tone for the evening but is also a reminder that, aside from the food, the restaurant is there to develop young trainees.

Marum is FriendsInternational’s fifth restaurant in Cambodia and Laos, and has been created with the aim of graduating disadvantaged young adults into stable employment within the region’s growing hospitality sector.

Since its first restaurant opened a decade ago, Friends has developed a reputation for turning out fresh and creative food. Marum clearly intends to be no exception. For those who know its sister restaurants in

NGO Friends-International has launched a new restaurant in the tourist hub of Siem Reap. Writer Nicky McGavin investigates its fresh take on Cambodian cuisine.

Phnom Penh, the approach is familiar.

“It’s half-way between them,” says Gustav Auer, Friends' hospitality training coordinator.

“The dishes are Cambodianinspired like Romdeng, but many are prepared tapas style like Friends The Restaurant”.

Among the offerings are some favourites from Marum’s forebears, including Romdeng’s guilt-free chicken and lotus root salad ($6.25) and an addictive smoked eggplant dip ($3.25) from Friends. Cambodian ingredients are key to the menu, which proves modern and inventive while keeping an eye on its roots.

“Even though it hasn’t been codified yet, Cambodian cuisine stands perfectly well by itself and you can be incredibly creative with it,” says Auer. “When we

first started looking for ideas [for Friends The Restaurant], we went out into the countryside and discovered a huge world of inspiration. And I’m sure there are many more dishes out there that we haven’t found yet."

“We are lucky too that our chef, Vann Chanrith, grew up in a household with no sisters. The boys had to do the cooking, and were quite competitive, which is how he learned that this is what he loved to do,” he adds. “He’s got a real passion for the food and is wonderfully creative.”

Auer points to the fish amok as an example of taking a traditional dish and giving it a unique twist.

“Everyone has a different way of doing it, wherever you go. So we also have our own style and serve it in bamboo ($6.50).” Those looking for something a little

different could try the steamed seafood dim sum served with an amok sauce ($5.75).

Nothing defines Cambodian food more than freshness, and it is another principle that resonates throughout the menu.

Prime examples include the stirfried cuttlefish with spicy basil, lemongrass and chilli ($6). Even the barbequed spare ribs will leave diners feeling refreshed after tasting the accompanying apple and radish salad ($5.50).

The restaurant aims to do more than help safeguard the futures of 35 students each year.

The profits are set to be invested into Friends-International projects in Siem Reap, which currently work with 2,000 children and young adults as well as their families and communities.

colour box

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Photography: Dylan Walker Hair and Makeup: Syna Styling Art direction: Simmi, Ella, Rangsey and Sandhya Srinivasan Location: The Plantation Hotel Page 48 & 49: Design by Simmi Page 51: Design by Ella Page 50 & 52: Design by Rangsey

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LISTINGS

hotel & travel Airlines & Agencies Air Asia 66 Mao Tse Tung Blvd.

Tel: 023 356 011.

Air France Phnom Penh Tower, 11th Floor 445, Monivong Blvd, cnr of St. 232 Tel: 023 965 500

Dragon Air 168 Monireth Blvd.

Tel: 023 424 300 www.dragonair.com/kh, pnh.res@dragonair.com Eva Air 298 Mao Tse Tung Blvd.

Tel: 023 219 911 Jet Star Asia 333B Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 220 909 Korean Air F3-R03, 254 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 224 047/8 Lao Airlines 58C Sihanouk Blvd., Tel: 023 216 563

Angkor Airways 32 Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 222 056

Malaysia Airlines 172 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 218 923

Asiana Airlines A-16 Domestic Arrival Terminal Phnom Penh International Airport Tel: 023 890 440-2

Silk Air 313 Sisowath Quay (Himawari Hotel) Tel: 023 426 808

Bangkok Airways 61A Street 214 Tel: 023 722 545 China Airlines 32 Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 222 393

Sunbird International Cambodia Ltd. PGCT Center 2F, St. 274 Tel: 023 99 1010/ 023 98 3333 sunbirdintl@yahoo.co.kr PSA of Korean Air, PSA of Asiana Airlines, Worldwide Air ticket, Visa, License.Open Mon~Fri 8am ~5:30pm & Sat 8am~1pm

Thai Airways 294 Mao Tse Tung Blvd.

Tel: 023 214 359 Vietnam Airlines 41 Street 214 Tel: 023 363 396.

Battambang

La Villa 185 Pom Romchek 5 Tel: 017 411 880 / 053 730 151, lavilla. battambang@gmail.com, www.lavillabattambang.com Beautifully restored 1930s colonial house with six rooms is the premium hotel in the country’s second city and with an excellent kitchen and bar.

Riverside Balcony Bar & Restaurant West bank of river Tel: 012 437 421 Traditional wooden house with great views of the river and good food, ideal for a sunset cocktail lounging over the river. Open Tues – Sun, 4pm - 11pm.

Kampot

Blissful Guest House Tel: 012 848 390 www.blissfulguesthouse.com Small guest house, with 11 rooms, set in a quiet part of town with downstairs restaurant and bar, and communal TV room upstairs.

Bokor Mountain Lodge Riverfront Tel: 033 932 314/ 017 712 062

www.bokorlodge.com Beautiful French colonial building situated on riverfront with well-fitted air-conditioned rooms. Has a good restaurant and bar.

Epic Arts Café Old Market Street Employing deaf staff, this café next to the old market has a good range of bagels, shakes, brownies and coffee. Is also the centre for the community arts programme.

Open from 7am - 6pm.

Les Manguiers 2km north of Kampot Tel: 092 330 050 Small resort with bungalows and rooms set in beautiful gardens overlooking the river with a restaurant which has daily changing, freshly prepared food.

Mea Culpa 44 Sovansokar Tel: 012 504 769 meaculpakampot@gmail.com Accommodation established by the former manager of Bokor Mountain Lodge set in the French Quarter. Six rooms have air con, hot water, DVD and TV. The large garden has a patio pizzeria and bar.

Nataya Coral Bay Resort Prek Ampil, Kampot, Tel: 016 226 471/ 012 902 823. natayaresort@yahoo.com Only 16km from Kampot, this top-end

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hideaway comes complete with eight beachfront bungalows, a 25m infinity pool, a 2km private beach, stilt huts off a 300m pier, and simply oodles of relaxation.

Rikitikitavi Riverfront Tel: 012 274 820/ 012 235 102 www.rikitikitavi-kampot.com Western food served in large portions in this river-facing restaurant, bar and three-room guesthouse. A more upmarket venue for Kampot, the upstairs seating affords great sunset views. Restaurant and bar open 7 days a week.

Rusty Keyhole Riverfront This British pub is the place for expats to chew the fat over a pint. Friendly British owner has recreated the atmosphere of a rural pub in outer Kampot, or at least as close as it gets.

The ribs remain as good as ever.

Open 8.30am until midnight.

Kep

Breezes Route 33 Tel: 097 675 9072 Situated on the main coast road about halfway between Kep Beach and the ferry to Rabbit Island, this stylish restaurant and lounge is located right by the sea in a green, wooded area.

The food is a fusion of Asian and western with a focus on small dishes with plenty of seafood. Free pick-up and return to Kep hotels.

Kep Lodge Tel: 092 435 330 www.keplodge.com

Nestled just below the calm Kep National Park, this boutique resort offers only 10 standard and luxury bungalows, all with private balcony, hot water and sea view. The comfortable restaurant pampers you with local and Swiss specialties and the lively bar.

The beautiful infinity salt water pool has one of the best views in Kep and is the perfect place for a sunset.

Veranda Natural Resort Tel: 033 399 035, 012 888 619, www.veranda-resort.com Traditional wooden bungalows set in the hillside. Settle down for the night and listen to the jungle purr. Has a good restaurant and bar with some quite stunning sweeping views down to the coast.

Knai Bang Chatt Resort Tel: 017 917 452 www.knaibangchatt.com Exclusive seaside resort just along from the crab stalls, which has opened up its doors to the public. Elegant swimming pool, air-con, gym, library and fantastic gardens, this resort is the ideal place to get away from Phnom Penh. Good restaurant with fantastic views of the sea. Check for special offers. Also has a Sailing Club next door with bar and restaurant, as well as Hoby Cats.

Amanjaya 1 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 214 747 www.amanjaya-pancam-hotel.com Large hotel with a great central location along the riverfront. The rooms are spacious and well-equipped with tasteful Khmer decorations. The downstairs restaurant doubles up as the air-con K-West bar.

Le Bout du Monde Kep, Tel: 011 964 181 www.leboutdumondekep.com Individual and separate bungalows in traditional Khmer architecture located at a top of a hill with good views and nice gardens. Serves French and Khmer cuisine. Rooms have hot water, mini-bar, fan and safe.

Saravoan Hotel Thmey Village, Kep, Tel: 036 639 3909 012 715 588 012 357 729 Recently renovated building with 17 rooms has all the modern amenities including an inviting swimming pool and sweeping views of the sea.

Phnom Penh – Deluxe

Cambodiana 313 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 426 288 www.hotelcambodiana.com Great riverside location with spectacular sweeping views of the confluence of three rivers. Large rooms with air-con, in-room safes and good bathrooms. Live band plays nightly (except Mondays) from 8.15pm until late.

The Governor’s House 3 Mao Tse Tung Blvd. nr cnr Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 987 025 www.governorshouse.net Welcome to The Governor’s House Colonial Boutique Hotel in Phnom Penh. The Governor’s house offers an exclusive 10 rooms 5-star boutique hotel embodied in an original colonial-style mansion in

NOW OPEN! TAPAS FROM JOSPER OVEN BY AITOR L IVE MUSIC PRESENTED BY KLAPYAHANDZ REINVENTED COCKTAILS BY DIN HASSAN

54 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

the heart of BKK I, surrounded by the top residential area in downtown Phnom Penh city, Kingdom of Wonder.

Himawari 313 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 214 555 www.himawarihotel.com The 115 beautifully-designed suites have air-con, cable TV, IDD, Internet, in-room safes and large bathrooms.

Nice swimming pool and good gym facilities as well as two good tennis courts.

Imperial Garden Hotel 315 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 219 991 Large hotel and villa complex next to the Cambodiana. Has a swimming pool, gym and tennis court.

InterContinental 296 Mao Tse Tung Tel: 023 424 888 www.intercontinental.com One of Phnom Penh’s most luxurious 5-star hotels, the 346 air-con rooms have all the expected facilities including in-room safes and king size beds. Also has a large swimming pool, a fitness centre and a spa.

Raffles Hotel Le Royal Street 92 Tel: 023 981 888 www.phnompenh.raffles.com Emanates the same class as its more famous namesake in Singapore. The Elephant Bar is a popular expat haunt during the 4pm to 8pm happy hour.

Beautiful gardens with a separate swimming pool for kids plus reasonably priced apartments for long stays. The rooms at the front are particularly special.

Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 28 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 200 www.sofitel.com Set riverside amongst landscaped gardens this 12-storey colonial style hotel is close to key attractions, embassies and the central business district. Along with 201 luxurious rooms and suites with Mekong or Bassac river views, are chic restaurants and bars, an upscale spa, two swimming pools, a sports club and the finest conferencing facilities in Cambodia.

Phnom Penh – Mid

Almond Hotel 128F Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 220 822 www.almondhotel.com.kh 56-room hotel located close to the Royal Palace and the riverfront with spacious rooms with WiFi. Downstairs restaurant serves dim sum and Cantonese food.

AQUA Boutique Hotel 2 Street 278 Tel: 012414596 info@aqua-pp.com Modern Indochina villa offers 7 rooms in a stunning Art Deco building, All ensuite with A/C. and on-sight pool, sun bed, wine bar and tapas restaurant.

Asia Club 456 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 721 766 An oasis of water and green in the city, the five bungalows and four rooms with air-con and bath, large safe and flatscreen tv. The beautiful swimming pool is tucked around the back of Man Han Lou Restaurant and you can have drinks and food delivered from Man Han Lou Restaurant.

Blue Lime 42 Street 19z (off Street 19), Tel: 023 222 260 www.bluelime.asia Centrally-located mini-hotel with a great swimming pool and contemporary rooms is a good flashpacker option.

FCC Phnom Penh 362 Sisowath Quay Tel: 012 253 222 www.fcccambodia.com Phnom Penh’s landmark restaurant has seven rooms with balconies offering views of the river. Each is individually designed and meticulously outfitted with high-speed Internet access and the latest mod cons.

Hotel Cara 18 Street 47 & 84 Tel: 023 430 066 / 023 998 422 stay@hotelcara.com www.hotelcara.com Just north of Wat Phnom, this stylish boutique hotel has well-fitted rooms at very reasonable rates and a great sushi restaurant.

Lebiz Hotel & Library 79F Street 128 Tel: 023 998 608/ 610 info@lebizhotel.com www.lebizhotel.com Luxury accommodation with a competitive edge and sleek modern design offers a full range of specialty services tailored to business needs, and cutting-edge technology to maximise comfort and productivity.

Has unique library.

Paddy Rice 213-217 Sisowath Quay

Tel: 023 990 321 www.paddyrice.net Former Hope and Anchor has newly refurbished rooms with solar hot water, cable TV, air conditioning, WiFi and great views of the river from its balconies. Downstairs restaurant offers full western and Asian cuisine Splash Inn Hotel 5 Street 244 Tel: 023 986 174 www.splashinncambodia.com The Splash Inn opened in March 2011 after full renovations to two traditional Khmer villas, one block from the Royal Palace. All rooms boast handmade furniture, en-suite bathroom, flatscreen LCD TV, DVD, Wi-fi, fridge and mini-bar.

River 108 2 Street 108 Tel: 023 218 785 www.river108.com Art deco hotel aimed at the flashpacker set, the river view rooms are extremely comfortable with flat screen TV and separate bathroom and toilet. Efficient WiFi, good working space and spacious rooms make this the perfect business option.

The Little Garden 8 Street 398 Tel: 078 217 871 Stylish boutique hotel with a swimming pool. A quiet retreat from the city’s chaos. Rooms feature attractive Cambodian furniture and gorgeous colonial tiles.

The Plantation Urban Resort and Spa 28 Street 184 Tel: 023 215 151 http://theplantatation.asia 70 rooms – including a penthouse suite, two swimming pools, a restaurant, two bars, a gym, a spa and a meeting room. Centrally situated close to most of Phnom Penh’s main attractions.

The Pavilion 227 Street 19 Tel: 023 222 280 www.pavilion-cambodia.com Beautiful boutique hotel set in a colonial building with large, unique rooms, each with either a small balcony or garden. Outdoor swimming pool, free WiFi and a small poolside restaurant.

The Quay Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 224 894 http://thequayhotel.com Five-storey, 16-room riverside boutique hotel has beautiful contemporary rooms designed by Gary Fell. The stand-out features are the roof-top jacuzzi and the very contemporary ground-floor bar and Chow Restaurant with WiFi. Queen Boutique Hotel 49A Street 214 Tel: 023 211 683 om@queenboutique.asia Boutique hotel located conveniently close to all the major attractions including the Royal Palace and National Museum.

Villa SALT 4 Street 294 Tel: 012 815 066 villasalt@sentosasilk.com Whether you are touring Phnom Penh or planning a long vacation, Villa SALT along with SentosaSilk, create an

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atmosphere that makes you feel at home. Explore 14 artistically decorated rooms, each created to give you that authentic sense of uniqueness.

Phnom Penh - Budget

of its hospitality training. Rooms equipped with queen sized bed, cable TV, private bathroom. The restaurant has a European set lunch menu and serves authentic Khmer food a la carte for diner.

California 2 79 Sisowath Quay Tel: 077 503 144 www. cafecaliforniaphnompenh.com New guest house and bar on the river front with well-priced rooms with air con and security box.

Downstairs bar has great Tex-Mex food and pool table.

Tonle Sap Guest House 4-6 Street 104 Tel: 023 986 722 www.tonlesapguesthouse.com Clean, well-kept guesthouse upstairs with 15 rooms, with air-con, fans, hot water, cable TV. Downstairs Pickled Parrot bar open 24 hours.

Feeling Home Cnr. Streets 278 & 63 Tel: 023 221 522 www.feelinghomecambodia.com Stylish nine-room boutique hotel with ample rooms at competitive rates, including flatscreen TV, aircon, security box and great beds.

Also has two apartments, an Asian restaurant and a Café Sentiment coffee house.

Sihanoukville

L’Imprevu Highway 1, 7km past Monivong Bridge Tel: 024 390 405 Complex with twenty-four bungalows just outside of Phnom Penh. Tennis courts and excellent swimming pool make this a good break from the city.

Le Rit’s 71 Street 240 Tel: 023-213-160 Small & charming 6-room guesthouse with spacious rooms is managed by NYEMO NGO, part

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Independence Hotel Independence Beach Tel: 012 728 090 www.independencehotel.net Beautifully restored hotel on Independence Beach, originally opened in 1963, reopened in 2007 following a complete refurbishment.

Has sweeping ocean views from most rooms. Also has a gym, conference rooms and circular restaurant.

Reef Resort Road to Serendipity Beach Tel: 012 315 338 www.reefresort.com.kh Guesthouse set around a beautiful pool with well apportioned air-con rooms, in-room safe and cable TV, family rooms also available. Has a welcoming bar with excellent TV screen, slate pool table and excellent Mexican cuisine.

Scuba Nation Lane off road to Serendipity Beach

Tel: 012 604 680/ 012 715 785 www.divecambodia.com Five-star PADI centre offering daily trips to the area’s many islands and reefs including the decent dive sites at Koh Rung Samloem and Koh Kon, also runs a range of PADI-certified courses, and has an office in Phnom Penh.

Sokha Beach Resort Sokha Beach Tel: 034 935 999 With its own private beach, excellent swimming pool and fine restaurants, Sokha is the most up-market place to stay in Sihanoukville. A live Filipino band plays around the cocktail bar at night.

The Secret Garden Otres Beach Tel: 0976 495 131 www.secretgardenotres.com Modern beachside air-con bungalows with hot water, jungle showers or baths, TV, WiFi and Otres Beach’s only swimming pool.

Restaurant run by professional Australian chef with draught and imported beers.

Zoco Independence Hotel Road to Serendipity Beach Two fashion boutiques – one on the way to Serendipity Beach, the other in Independence Hotel – run by the Spanish-born Nuria, sells dresses, skirts, bags and accessories.

Travel

Cambodia Uncovered 11B Street 370 Tel: 012 507 097

www.cambodiauncovered.com Offers village and cultural tours in Phnom Penh and surrounds including road trips, Mekong cruises, accommodation, cooking classes and other activities.

Exotissimo Travel No. 66, Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 218 948 www.exotissimo.com Excellent French-owned agency specialising in adventure tourism, flight bookings, package holidays and a range of tours of Southeast Asia.

Helicopters Cambodia 10 Street 310 Tel: 012 814 500/ www.helicopterscambodia.com Over 12 years experience operating in the Kingdom offers scenic flights around the Temples of Angkor and beyond. Is a wholly owned subsidiary of Helicopters New Zealand Group.

Intrepid Travel 468 Sivutha Blvd.

Tel: 063 966 655 For travellers with a yearning to get off the beaten track, Intrepid opens up a whole new world of adventure travel. With a huge variety of tours available.

Travel Indochina 43-44EO Street 108 Tel: 023 991 978 www.travelindochina.com.au Australian-owned and managed travel company specialising in small group journeys around Asia that can tailor trips for individuals.

Laundry Bar Old Market Extremely chilled music bar just off Pub Street with great mellow decor and extremely cool t-shirts. Free drink during the 6pm to 9pm washing hours.

Open 6pm until late.

LISTINGS

Linga Bar Alley behind Pub Street Tel: 012 246 912 www.lingabar.com Laid back, gay-friendly bar with extremely chilled Buddha Bar tunes and some amazing light boxes that serves a great range of cocktails. Free WiFi. Open 5pm until late.

siem reap Siem Reap - Bars

AHA The Passage Tel: 063 965 501 Sophisticated and beautifully designed wine bar selling a wide range of wines from around the world and tapas, as well as great cheese and Lavazza coffee. Open 10.30am to 10.30pm.

Little Pari The Lane, off Pub Street, The newest and bluest bar in town! Very sweet, very stylish little jewel of a bar, much like the eponymous owner herself, Pari. This jazz/wine bar serves delicious Asianised cocktails, wines and beers.

Open from 7pm until closing.

Angkor What?

Pub Street Tel: 012 181 4001 “Promoting irresponsible drinking since 1998,” this graffiti-laden bar is the mainstay of Pub Street. A healthy mix of loud rock, punk and grunge, buckets of vodka and red bull for $6.

Miss Wong Lane off Pub Street Tel: 092 428 332 Imagine yourself in China at the turn of the last century and you won’t go much wrong in Miss Wong with excellent and original cocktails and dim sum.

Open late.

Fresh at Chilli Si-Dang East River Tel: 012 723 488 Riverside dining, balcony views, a relaxing lounge downstairs, and a pool table. Fresh food, including traditional Khmer cuisine, cheese, sandwiches, a generous selection of vegetarian food.

Nest Sivutha Blvd.

Tel: 017 925 181 A step up for Siem Reap, Nest is high level drinking and dining, serving light Mediterranean and Asian food in a unique, highly stylised setting, with loungers and table settings.

02 Dec. 2012

Picasso Alley West A very cosy wine and tapas bar, with artful décor and a curved bar making conversation easy and fun. Good selection of wines and delicious tapas make this a regular haunt for expats.

Open 5pm until midnight.

The Station Wine Bar Street 7, close to Pub Street Tel: 097 850 4043 www.thestationwinebarsiemreap.com For lovers and lovers of wine offers a selection of fine wines, always 20 by the glass and a list of over 100 by the bottle.

Good music and pleasant decor in air conditioned comfort. Tuesdays, varietal wine tastings and every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday our Lady Boy Variety Show.

The Warehouse Old MarketTel: 012 530 227 Popular expat bar plays great music with good Asian-Western fusion cuisine. Best stocked bar in town and homemade infused vodkas. Open 10am to 3am.

Siem Reap - Cafés

Blue Pumpkin Old Market Tel: 012 946 227/ 063 463 574 www.tbpumpkin.com Popular café with a great range of freshly baked breads and pastries, shakes and coffee. Also at Angkor Wat and the airport.

Open daily from 6am to 10pm. Free WiFi. Café de la Paix Sivutha BlvdTel: 063 966 000 www.hoteldelapaixangkor.com Like the adjoining Hotel de la Paix, this small café exudes contemporary chic. Excellent Lavazza coffee, bagels,

salads and free WiFi dished up in air-con surroundings.

Siem Reap - Galleries

Arts Lounge Hotel de la Paix, Sivutha Boulevard Tel: 063 966 000 Large space in the ground floor of the hotel showcases the works of Cambodian and international artists. All pieces focus on Cambodian subjects.

Diwo Galleries One at Vat Svay, Tonle Sap Road and another between Monument Books and Ta Prohm Hotel on the riverside Features a selection of refined Khmer statues and Buddhas. The larger Vat Svay location features a gallery exhibition of Thierry Diwo’s photography, as well as sells home decor and books. Drinks are available in the garden and on the terrace.

McDermott Gallery I & II FCC Complex Pokambor Avenue, Alley behind Pub Street Tel: 092 668 181 www.mcdermottgallery.com Two galleries devoted to photographic works. with permanent exhibition of photographs taken by John McDermott.

Open 10am to 10pm.

Siem Reap - Hotels

FCC Angkor Pokambor Avenue Tel: 023 992 284 www.fcccambodia.com Boutique hotel with 31 contemporary Asian-designed rooms spread around the garden and swimming pool. Free WiFi for guests both in rooms and around the pool.

Golden Orange Off East River Road Tel: 063 965 389 reservations@goldenorangehotel.com www.goldenorangehotel.com

Ti vart; RbNaMg Gnþr CatiB ak;k Nþa l ma:r a:t u g enAGgÁr vtþe lIk TI1 7 17th Angkor Wat International Half Marathon

Building a Better Future-Aid for Children and Disabled in Cambodia

02 Dec. 2012

Sponsored by:

www.angkormarathon.org

EEntry Now !!!

Deadline 17 Nov. 2012, No entry after deadline Organized by:

Managed by: Specially Managed by:

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Mini-hotel with good sized air-con rooms that tends to have customers when others are empty. Nice outside bar makes for a good place to sit and have a few beers.

golf@sofitel-royal-angkora.com International standard 18-hole, 72-par golf course 16km outside of Siem Reap.

Hotel de la Paix Sivutha Boulevard Tel: 063 966 000 www.hoteldelapaixangkor.com With stoneware bathtubs in the rooms, mini-iPods, flexible reading flashlights above the decadently lavish beds and inset photographic galleries along all the corridors, de la Paix is a modern design classic.

FCC Angkor FCC Complex, Pokambor Avenue Tel: 063 760 280 Elegant bar and restaurant serves a mix of Asian and international cuisine. The complex includes shops, the McDermott Gallery, Visaya Spa and boutique hotel.

Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor 1 Charles de Gaulle Tel: 063 963 888 www.raffles.com Elegant hotel with opulent gardens and a spectacular swimming pool in its grounds.

Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf & Spa Vithei Charles de Gaulle Tel: 063 964 600/ 610 www.sofitel.com Ultimate in comfort and refinement by combining the traditional architecture of Cambodia with elegant

Siem Reap - Leisure

Le Malraux Street No. 7 Tel: 063 966 041 Beautiful French restaurant offering alfresco, café and brasserie style dining with a menu catering to a range of budgets and tastes.

Both food and service is consistently good. An attractive wine list rounds out this restaurant’s promise.

L’Oasi East River Road Tel: 092 418 917 The best Italian restaurant in, or rather just outside of, town. The combination of the beautiful garden and home-cooked Italian pasta and pizza makes the trip well worth it.

Body Tune 293-290 Pokambor Av. (next to the old market along Riverside) Tel: 063 764 141 www.bodytune.co.th When you need to re-balance and rejuvenate your body in between daily routines, BODY TUNE is the perfect place to regain your energy. Open daily 10:00am - 10:30pm.

Marum 8a Route B, btwn Wat Polanka & Catholic Church Tel: 017 363 284 contact@marum-restaurant.org Great food, good service. Part of the Mith Samlanh group that trains marginalized and vulnerable young people for a career in the hospitality industry. Profits go back into the training programme.

Helicopters Cambodia 658 Hup Quan Street Tel: 063 963 316 Professionally run company that has flights over the temples and beyond in modern, safe helicopters.

De Silk 18 Oum Khun Blvd. Tel: 063 761 198 011 775 168 www desilk.com Boutique offering 24/7 tailoring services using 100% Khmer traditional silk, that has expertise in making clothes and accessories.

Khmer Ways Wat Svay Village Tel: 077 367 790 www.khmerways.com Ride specially adapted motor-scooters to explore parts of Siem Reap nobody else gets to, including villages, temples and waterfalls. No previous experience required. Lunch, water, sunscreen and snacks provided.

Sam Veasna Centre Wat Bo Area Tel: 063 96 37 10 Wild Asia Responsible Tourism Award winner. Some of the rarest birds in Asia can be seen at Prek Toal and Ang Trapang Thmor, a day-trip from Siem Reap, or combine bird watching with temple trips to Koh Ker and Beng Melea.

Phokeethra Country Club Sofitel Royal Angkor Resort & Spa Vithei Charles de Gaulle Tel: 056 396 4600,

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Siem Reap - Restaurants

Siem Reap - Shops

Eric Raisina 53 Veal Village Tel: 012 965 207/ 063 963 207 Accessories, decor, textiles and clothing created by Madagascan-born and Frenchtrained designer. Phone in advance for an appointment.

Jasmine Boutique FCC Angkor, Pokambor Avenue Tel: 063 760 610 Same sophisticated, stylish boutique as on Street 240 in Phnom Penh.

Smateria The Alley West Tel: 063 964 343 www.smateria.com Boutique specialising in accessories made from recycled materials including a range of bags and wallets made from old cartons, plastic bags and mosquito nets.

Albertina d’Urso. Tibet

siem reap

Photo Frenzy Nicky McGavin This year’s Angkor Photo Festival includes images that will startle and enlighten viewers, in both stark monochrome and saturated colour. The selection of imagery at the 2012 festival is as powerful as ever, and will be revealed in a series of 10 standing exhibitions and eight evening slide shows from Dec. 1 to Dec. 8.

The exhibitions feature the work of 130 photographers, focusing on issues as diverse as flooding in Bangkok (Ruangkritya), one man’s photographic musings on his family (Laboile), Syria’s battle for Aleppo (Van der Stockt) and the ambiguities of Antwerp, Belgium (Maes). Whatever the message, the images are beautiful.

The festival is more than a showcase for spectacular photography. It’s a platform for emerging photographers and a forum for building skills and experience through workshops for young Asian photographers.

It is also a chance to explore other possibilities, with events such as Children’s Day and Blow Up Angkor — a series of public and free exhibitions displayed on walls in Siem Reap.

“It can be hard for Asian photographers to grow,” explains Françoise Callier, festival programme coordinator.

“Many of them can’t afford the fees charged by other festivals.

It can be difficult for them to travel to find the high profile stories that others focus on, and sometimes they operate in

a context that doesn’t reward originality. Here, we are not looking for photographers who follow trends.”

Unlike many festivals, the Angkor Photo Festival is free for photographers and audiences alike. More than half of the participating photographers come from Asia, and 38 of them will take part in photography workshops. Guided by established names, participants will be challenged to develop a theme over the course of the festival week.

The results will be shown in the final slideshow. The festival’s Children’s Day is an opportunity to enjoy the work of another important group of young photographers: the children of Anjali House, a shelter for former street kids established by the first festival in 2006.

Anjali provides education, healthcare, food and family support to more than 120 children in Siem Reap. One of their core developmental strategies is a focus on the arts, especially photography.

Workshops for Anjali’s children have already produced two emerging photographers whose work has received national recognition.

Venues across town include the FCC Angkor, the gardens at Raffles Hotel Le Grand d’Angkor, 1961 Hotel Gallery, the McDermott Gallery and the Angkor Photo Gallery on the east riverside road.

LISTINGS

Fortune Palace NagaWorld, Hun Sen Park Chinese restaurant with authentic Greater Chinese cuisine and all-youcan-eat Dim Sum buffet on Sundays.

Open from 11am - 3pm, 5pm - 10pm.

food & drink

Fu Lu Zu Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd.

023 999 200 x 6613 Elegant Chinese restaurant specialising in contemporary Cantonese delicacies and dim sum with private rooms for intimate ambience.

Open from 11.30am - 2.30pm, 6.30pm - 10.30pm. Dim Sum weekend from 8am - 2.30pm.

Cambodian

Khmer Surin 9 Street 57 Tel 012 887 320 Elegant restaurant featuring wood and silk décor with a tropical garden that serves Cambodian and Thai favourites.

Dishes are well prepsred and large enough to share.

K’NYAY 25K Suramarit Blvd. (Street 268) Tel: 023 225 225 / 092 665 225, www.knyay.com knyay@hotmail.com Modern Khmer restaurant tucked away down an alley off Sihanouk Blvd, with a menu including a selection of freshly prepared, vegan dishes, along with traditional Cambodian specialities.

Offers a selection of cakes, ice creams and sorbets, using all vegan ingredients.

Open 12pm - 9pm (Mon - Fri), 7am 9pm (Sat), closed Sunday.

Malis 136 Norodom Bvd. Tel: 023 221 022 www.malisrestaurant.com Beautiful modern Khmer restaurant with a courtyard set around narrow water channels and decorated with terracotta floor tiles. Has air-con rooms inside for those who find the midday sun too much. The cuisine is modern Khmer, with no MSG. Restaurant Le Royal Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 (see also restaurants, French) Romdeng 74 Street 174 Tel: 092 219 565 Come to Romdeng and order some delicious Khmer food for you and also for your children from our new kid’s menu, serving creative and healthy treats for little one! While waiting for your dishes, let you kids enjoy the playroom while you relax by the pool…

And before leaving don’t miss our new gift shop in the first floor. Special lunch set menu everyday.

Open 11am - 9pm.

The Local 39C Street 454 Tel: 077 905 522 Café with a courtyard, art deco style mezzanine bar and dining room displaying art from the Apsara gallery with menu established by Khmer chef and cookbook author Sok Chhong.

Open Tues to Sun, 10am - 11pm.

Chinese Emperors of China 19 Street 163 Tel: 097 929 2699 Up-market Chinese restaurant, popular with the capital’s large Chinese community, private dinning rooms, specializes in Peking duck and dim sum.

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Hua Nam 753 Monivong Bvd. Tel: 023 364 005 Large Chinese restaurant that specialises in seafood and duck and has a good selection of wines, with VIP rooms.

Open 11am - 2pm, 5pm - 10pm.

Man Han Lou Restaurant 456 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 721 966 Micro-brewery with four types of German-style beer. Has extensive Chinese, Thai, Khmer and Vietnamese menus, as well as dim sum breakfast.

Open from 6am - 10am.

Sam Doo 56-58 Kampuchea Krom Tel: 023 218 773 The place for dim sum in Phnom Penh, baskets of steamed prawn dumplings, pork buns and more go for a pittance.

The wonton soup and other tasty meals are a steal.

Open 7am - 2am.

Xiang Palace InterContinental Phnom Penh 2/F, 296 Mao Tse Toung Blvd.

Tel: 023 424 888 x 3562 Xiang Palace is locally acclaimed for its authentic Cantonese cuisine and delicious dim sum, all prepared with the finest ingredients.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Yi Sang Chinese Restaurant 128F Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 220 922 www.almondhotel.com.kh Set on the ground floor of the Almond Hotel, this stylish restaurant specialises in Cantonese food and dim sum that fuses the traditional with the contemporary, including excellent dim sum.

Open from 6.30am - 10am, 11.30am - 2pm and 5.30pm - 10pm – Dim Sum not served in the evening.

French Armand’s 33 Street 108 Tel: 015 548 966 A true bistro experience in a cosy wood-panelled space, despite the informal and relaxed ambience it has the menu to even satisfy high-rollers.

Open 5pm until late. Closed Mondays.

Brasserie du Port 49E Sisowath Quay, cnr Street 84 Tel: 012 607 507 Seaside bistro featuring eclectic menu of haute cuisine mixed with pasta and ish specials. French classics including flambéed duck, pork filet mignon and home-made fois gras available at reasonable prices. Open daily for lunch and dinner, Brasserie’s long wooden bar is the perfect spot for enjoying a sea breeze and the restaurant’s

comprehensive wine list.

Open daily, 8am – 11pm.

Comme à la Maison 13 Street 57 Tel: 012 951 869 www.commealamaison-delicatessen. com Sophisticated French restaurant with a beautiful outdoor terrace area at the front, yet secluded from the street. One of the best French kitchens in town.

Small delicatessen at the back of the restaurant.

Open daily from 6am - 10.30pm.

K West 1 Street 154, cnr. Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 214 747 Stylish aircon bar and restaurant below the Amanjaya with an excelllent steak menu and good value happy hour from 6pm to 8pm Fridays. Now has a brasserie menu with daily specials. Also has free WiFi. Open 6.30am until midnight.

La Marmite Cnr Streets 108 & 51 Tel: 012 391 746 This small, reasonably priced French bistro has two adjoining rooms (one non-smoking) creating a relaxed, cosy atmosphere. Serves excellent fish, steaks and offal as well as daily specials, for a taste of real homecooked French cuisine.

Open 11am - 2.30pm, 6pm - 10.30pm.

La Residence Restaurant 22/24 Street 214, Tel: 023 224 582 Fine dining on an international scale in this sophisticated restaurant, where French classics meet gourmet, modern cuisine.

Open from 11.30am - 2pm, 6.30pm 10.30pm.

Le Café Mith Samlanh French Institute, Street 184 Tel: 092 471 791 Set in the lush garden of the French Institute (formerly CCF), Le Café offers an extensive à la carte menu with Khmer and French dishes. All proceeds go towards Mith Samlanh’s programmes for marginalised youth.

Open 7am - 5pm, closed Sundays.

Le Gourmet NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park Tel: 023 228 822.

Kitsch meets tradition at this up-scale restaurant. Quality ingredients come together in beautiful presentation on the plate, with the luxury of the surroundings complemented by professional and attentive service.

Open daily from 12pm - 3pm and 6pm - 10pm.

Le Jardin 16 Street 360 Tel: 011 723 399 Beautiful shaded restaurant with large garden and spacious outdoor play area for kids with excellent ice cream.

Open 8am - 10pm (closed Mondays).

MIRO Restaurant & Lounge 43 Sihanouk Blvd.

Tel: 023 217 991 One of Phnom Penh’s recently opened restaurants, Miro is a chic and trendy addition to the city’s dining scene.

Stylishly outfitted in tones of green and black with padded velvet couches and a sweeping granite staircase, this dining spot provides a taste of Basque cuisine with a French influence.

Open 12pm until late.

Restaurant Le Royal Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 www.raffles.com/phnompenh dining. phompenh@raffles.com Treat yourself to the finest French & Khmer cuisine in one of Indochina’s most elegant restaurants. The Chef’s Degustation menu allows you to try a myriad of dishes in a single meal in a refined atmosphere. Private rooms are available on request.

Open from 6.30pm - 10.30pm.

The Wine Restaurant 219 Street 19 Tel: 023 223 527 Excellent fine dining restaurant in the same grounds as Open Wine deli. The fresh food and extensive selection of wines make this one of the exclusive places to dine in town.

Topaz 182 Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 012 346 555/ 023 221 622 Sophisticated, air-con restaurant with outside dining, upstairs bar, wine shop, cigar room and private rooms. One of Phnom Penh’s finest restaurants. Has a popular piano bar, night club upstairs.

Open 11am - 2pm, 6pm - 11pm.

Van’s Restaurant 5 Street 102 Tel: 023 722 067 French fine-dining in a grand setting awaits at Van’s, located on the second floor of a well preserved colonial era building near the city’s Post Office.

Open daily 11.30am - 2.30pm, 5pm 10.30pm.

Indian Sub-Continent

Dosa Corner 15 Street 51, Tel: 012 673 276 This small south Indian restaurant opened in January. True to its name it has a wide range of very good value dosa as well as thali and biryani dishes.

Air-conditioned.

Open 7am - 10pm.

East India 9 Street 114 Tel: 023 992 007 South Indian cuisine predominates in this pristine restaurant with excellent breads including nine types of dosa.

Open 11am - 2pm, 5.30pm - 10.30pm.

Flavours of India 158 Street 63, Tel: 012 886 374, Relaxing Indian and Nepalese restaurant with friendly staff and a good range of dishes including good value vegetarian and meat thalis.

Open 10am - 11pm.

Mumtaz 162 Street 63 Tel: 023 726 761 Popular Vietnamese chain of Indian restaurants comes to Phnom Penh.

Excellent tandoori and southern Indian delicacies including dosa with chefs from both north and south.

Shiva Shakti 70 Sihanouk Blvd.

Tel: 012 813 817/ 023 213 062 Decidedly upmarket and sophisticated Indian restaurant in a beautiful setting with prices to match. Good place for an Indian treat.

Open from 11am - 2pm, 6pm 10.30pm. Closed Mondays.

Indochine

Indochine NagaWorld, Hun Sen Park

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With a focus on Southeast Asian cuisine, Indochine offers tradition dishes from Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand in a sophisticated space.

Open 11am - 11pm.

Irrawaddi 24 Street 334 Tel: 012 979 510 Authentic Myanmar food at very reasonable prices in a clean setting with paintings of the Burmese countryside decorating the walls.

Open 10am - 10pm, closed - Mondays.

Lemongrass 14 Street 130 Tel: 012 996 707 Elegant Thai-managed restaurant with stylish use of heavy wood and artefacts to create a far more luxurious ambience than the reasonable prices would suggest.

Open 10am - 10pm.

Le Wok 33 Street 178 Tel: 092 821 857 Light and modern pan-Asian and French eatery with dishes such as prawns with lime and wasabi and Mekong lobster thermidor, and a comprehensive list of wines and cocktails.

Open daily 9am - 11pm.

Ngon 60 Sihanouk Blvd.

Tel: 023 987 151 www.ngonpnh.com Open air restaurant that features a vast range of Vietnamese food in a garden environment. Meaning delicious, although the food does not live up to its name, the ambience makes up for it.

Pangea Fusion Restaurant NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park Tel: 023 228 822 Pan-Asian fusion restaurant with a western flair that specialises in all-youcan-eat dinner buffets.

Open daily 6am - 10.30pm.

Singapore Kitchen 110 Street 360 Tel: 092 201 304/ 017 821 480 Specialising in classic Singapore hawker food, try the laksa – full of wholesome ingredients and with a great spicy sauce or those wanting a more subtle flavour could do worse than trying the Hainanese chicken rice. Open daliy 11am - 9.30pm, does delivery.

International

AQUA Modern Eatery 2 Street 278, Tel: 012414596 Reservations: info@aqua-pp.com Asian influenced wine bar with sophisticated tapas & mezze dishes to indulge in at the bar, by the pool or in the Imperial Chinese Bed. A modern veranda restaurant featuring avantgarde globally-inspired fusion dishes with a French focus.

Open 11:30am – 2:30pm and 6pm -10:30pm. Closed on Monday nights.

Aussie XL Café 205A Street 51, Tel: 023 301 301 Aussie style bistro food with quick lunch menu and a good selection of house wines and retail wines.

Open 7am - 11pm.

Beirut Resto-Café 117 Sisowath Quay,(after night market) Tel: 023 720 011/ 092 483 759 The only authentic Lebanese halal

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cuisine and Sisha Lounge in the town.

Offering middle east flavours including mezze tapas – hummus, shish kebab, baba ganouj, falafel, vegetarian and non-vegetarian kebab wraps. Delivery, takeaway, catering.

Open daily 10am until late.

Cafe Monivong Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 Wicker armchairs and marble tables covered with crisp white tablecloths create the perfect place to relax and linger over a delightful alfresco breakfast, lunch or dinner. Western and Asian cuisines are available buffetstyle or a la carte. Private rooms are available on request.

Buffet from 6am - 10am, 12pm 2.30pm, 6pm - 10pm, A la carte from 11am - 11pm.

Central Food Station Corner of Street 154 & 81 (near Sorya Shopping Mall), Tel: 012 955 038 www.central-food-station.com Based on a food court concept, if you need a quick bite, Central is located 5 minutes walk from Sorya Shopping Mall has everything your hungry heart desires. Your choices will seem endless - hearty deli sandwiches, South East Asian specialties, Italian best recipes.

Central has Air-con, outside smoking terrace, kids’ corner, wi-fi.

Open daily 6am - 10pm.

Doors Restaurant 18, Street 47 & 84 Tel : 023 998 114 www.doorspp.com New tapas restaurant, opening October 2012.

Open 11am until late eLYXIR 3 Street 466 (near Thai embassy), Tel: 023 211 711 Elyxir is dedicated to wine, luxury and gastronomy. Each course was dreamed up in order to marry perfectly the wines on our menu. Elyxir includes a swimming pool, champagne bar, private rooms & all our wines are available at our Wine Shop.

Open Tuesday - Sunday, 10am until late.

FCC Phnom Penh 363 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 724 014 The first stop for newcomers and it’s easy to see why. Set in a beautiful colonial house with sumptuous views across the river on one side and the National Museum to the other, it’s best to come at sunset when the streets below are most crowded, the cocktails are half price and draft beer goes for $1. Open daily from 7am to midnight.

Fish Sisowath Quay, cnr of Street 108, Tel: 023 222 685, fishphnompenh.com Contemporary, modern restaurant specialising in all things oceanic.

Menu includes everything from lobster through sushi to gourmet fish and chips for upmarket, but reasonable prices.

Open 7am - late.

Flavours Cnrs. Street 51 & 282 Tel: 017 765 896 Relaxing restaurant and popular bar run

by Quebecois with comfortable chairs that fall out onto the street. The mix of Asian and western cuisine has proved so popular that they have a copycat restaurant opposite. Open 7am - late.

Friends 215 Street 13 Tel: 012 802 072 Non-profit training restaurant where all the proceeds go to the neighbouring street-kid school. Food is a reliable mix of Mediterranean and Asian with tapas thrown in if you are not feeling too hungry. Great juices. Another one of Phnom Penh’s places designed to take it easy, but this time with a clear conscience. Open 11am - 9pm.

Garden Centre Café 60-61 Street 108 Tel: 023 997 850 / 092 429 968. www.gardencentercafe.com Popular expat restaurant with fresh ingredients and lots of healthy options.

Another location is at 4B Street 57.

Open from 7am - 10pm (closed Mondays).

Gasolina 56/58 Street 57 Tel: 012 373 009 The largest garden bar in town has an extensive menu. Crèche facilities make this a popular choice with families at weekends. Has regular events with live music and DJs, even fashion shows.

Open from 8am - 12am.

Gastrobar Botanico 9b Street 29 Tel: 017 873 101 info@gastrobarbotanico.com Located in its own habitat with over 2,000 plants. Open-air. Offers tapas, salads, sandwich, and straightforward food, yet with character, in lush garden setting. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, and in between. Espresso bar. Cocktails, wines, fruit shakes.

Open daily 8am - 9:30pm.

Green Vespa 95 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 012 887 228 Superb daily breakfast selection, varied lunch and dinner specials and the best roast meal in town on the weekends.

Traditional accompaniments to great food include Branston pickle, Colemans mustard, mint and horseradish sauce, HP and Heinz Ketchup.

Open 6am - 11pm.

Irina Russian Restaurant 15 Street 352 Tel: 012 833 524/ 092 833 524 Russian restaurant of iconic Phnom Penh status. If you can walk out of the restaurant after hitting the vodkas then you are doing well.

Open daily from 11am until the vodka runs out.

Java Cafe & Gallery 56 Sihanouk Blvd.

Tel: 023 987 420 www.javaarts.org Great coffees, salads, mix-and-match sandwiches and juices served in an elegant setting. The upstairs terrace, overlooking the Independence Monument, is a good place to watch the chaos below, while the downstairs space is a great place for coffee and catching up on your emails. Has exhibitions both upstairs and down.

Open 7am - 10pm.

Kandal House 239 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 986 803 Very friendly riverside established serving good and reasonably priced homemade pasta and a variety of Asian dishes. Open 8am - late.

La Coupole Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 200 www.sofitel.com Casual and authentic Indochinese and French cuisine with live cooking by chefs in an open kitchen concept.

Offers breakfast, lunch, dinner and the Sunday brunch, all set in a stunning restaurant with high ceilings and natural light.

La Croisette 241 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 220 554 Riverfront restaurant with an ample outside dining area screened off by trees that serves good, reasonablypriced food, also has a cool, air-con restaurant inside. Often arranges special events.

Open 7am until late.

La Plaza Spanish Tapas Bar 22B Street 278, nr cnr Street 57 Tel: 012 825 443 Phnom Penh’s one and only Spanish tapas bar. It recreates to perfection the best known and most delicious Spanish tapas, making of seafood Paella its signature dish. Tapas are the result of hundreds of years of Spanish culinary history and evolution. Simple, tasty and healthy dishes have become a standard to be enjoyed with friends while drinking large amounts of sangría.

Open 11am - 2pm,5pm - 10pm. All day on the weekend.

Latin Quarter Cnr Street 178 and Street 19 Tel: 093 319 081.

Latin restaurant and bar that serves excellent tapas and mains with extra salsa. Beautiful courtyard often hosts live music and salsa dancing while the air-con restaurant is available for private hire.

Open from breakfast until the music stops.

Le Quay Café Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 110 Tel: 023 998 730, www.amaraspa.hotelcara.com Enjoy the menu of sushi, salads, paninis, crepes and Asian specialities, with a wide range of healthy power juices, smoothies, cocktails, coffees, beers and wines, either beside a relaxing water feature or on the riverside terrace. Smoke free environment for lunch and dinner.

Open from 10.30am to 10.30pm.

Lime Restaurant + Bar 79F Street 128 Tel: 023 998 608/ 610 ` info@lebizhotel.com, www.lebizhotel. com Located in Lebiz Hotel Lime serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, offering a stylish mix of Asian and western favourites with a focus on fresh, healthy and local ingredients, with regular changes to the menu.

Lotus Blanc 152 Street 51 Tel: 017 602 251 Run by local NGO Pour un Sourire d’Enfant, this centrally located training restaurant has a monthly changing lunch menu as well as a la carte Khmer dishes. Serves both Asian and continental breakfast. Open Monday – Saturday, 7am - 10 pm.

Metro Café Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148 Tel: 023 222 275 Metro has much more than a cool décor and changing light boxes, with reasonably priced Tiger and house wines and a great range of Martinis, try

recipe

Black Forest Ice Blended

The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf shares its recipe for a blended chocolate drink with ice, chocolate espresso beans, maraschino cherries and non-fat milk.

INGREDIENTS Fresh skim milk - 75ml Coffee extract - 150ml Chocolate covered espresso beans - five Maraschino cherries - five Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf special Dutch chocolate powder - 125g Cubed or crushed ice – around 290g STEP ONE Fill a cup with ice to its brim. Pour in the milk and coffee extract, which should fill the cup.

STEP TWO Pour the contents into a blender pitcher and add the special dutch chocolate powder, chocolate covered espresso beans and Maraschino cherries.

STEP THREE Blend at low speed until the top of the liquid begins to fold and becomes smooth. You may add whipped cream and a cherry on top to give it some character if needed.

Recipes provided by members of:

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the Expresso. Gets very popular late on, while during the day is a good time to enjoy the free WiFi while enjoying a coffee in a smoke free environment.

Open 7:30am - 1am.

Mike’s Burger House Russian Blvd, inside Sokimex Petrol Station.

Tel: 012 633 971 Hugely popular burger bar that serves food with plastic knives and forks and equally plastic French fries with cheese sauce. Ideal for those who believe that American culture starts with a Mc. New York Steakhouse 264 Street 63 cnr Mao Tse Tung Blvd.

Tel: 023 987 500, www.steakhouse.com.kh Indulge in a seductive dining experience in the famed Phnom Penh Steak restaurant. The innovative menu features New-York Steakhouse signature prime cuts of beef charred to perfection accompanied by decadent sides and desserts.

Open Daily from 11am - 2pm and 15pm -Midnight.

Tel: 023 223 617/ 077 723 911 Phnom Penh’s first and only independent oyster bar has drawn a crowd of expats and Cambodians seeking high-quality oysters in a cosy setting.

Open daily 10:30am – 2:00pm, 5:00pm - 11:00pm.

Stella Restaurant 55 Street 75 Tel: 099 574 188/ 012 735 002 A cosy restaurant located near Wat Phnom, Stella serves pizzas, grilled food and Asian cuisine in a peaceful garden atmosphere.

Steve’s Steakhouse 8 Street 240 Tel: 023 987 320 Longstanding restaurant specialising in local grain-fed beef as well as a large variety of imported steaks, hamburgers, ribs and Greek cuisine.

Has a terraced lounge with pool tables upstairs as well as a sports bar with large screen TV and happy hour from 12pm to 7pm.

Open daily 11am - 10.30pm.

Ocean 11 Street 288 Tel: 017 766 690 European managed Mediterranean restaurant that dishes up some of the best fish and seafood in town. Try the red snapper or the squid with rocket.

Often has exhibitions around the understated walls.

Stonegrill 649 Sisovath Quay Tel: 023 999 950 www.stonegrill.com.kh Stonegrill offers a unique interactive dining experience where diners meals are served cooking at the table on a natural volcanic stones heated to 400C (752F). Open daily 11am - midnight.

One More Pub 16E Street 294 Tel: 017 327 378 (see bars)

T-Bone Steak House 392 Monivong Boulevard & Street 360 Tel: 012 900 138 Contemporary restaurant serving a premium selection of both imported and Cambodian beef, in a sophisticated air-conditioned setting – a carnivore’s delight.

Open 12pm - 2pm, 5pm -11pm.

Paddy Rice 213-217 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023990321 www.paddyrice.net (see bars) Restaurant Tell 13 Street 90 Tel: 023 430 650 Up-market eatery that re-creates the genuine feel of an Alpine chalet, has a spacious indoor restaurant and outdoor terrace with rotisserie and bar. European menu with imported steaks, fondue, raclette and an extensive wine list.

Open 11.30am - 2pm, 5pm - 11pm.

Rising Sun 20 Street 178 Tel: 012 970 718 (see bars) Riverside Bistro Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148 Tel: 012 277 882/ 023 213 898 Popular restaurant with expats and tourists alike mainly due to its large outdoor terrace area to view the river.

Serves a mixture of Asian and western food with an emphasis on German cuisine. Has rock music videos and a pool table in the music bar at the back.

Open from 7am - 2am.

Samba Brazilian Steakhouse 64 Sihanouk Blvd. (Nr Independence Monument) Tel: 023 222 599 Experience the unique Brazilian Churrasco way of cookingwith a large variety of meats skewered and roasted to perfection and served piping hot direct from the skewers to your plate!

Open daily 11am - 3pm, 5pm 10:30pm.

Sonoma Oyster Bar 159 Street 278

Tepui Restaurant Lounge Chinese House, 45 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 991 514 Located on the second floor of Chinese House, Tepui offers a mix of Mediterranean and South American small plates with Asian accents.The skilled Venezuelan chef is considered one of the city’s best culinary talents.

Open 6pm - 10.30pm, closed Mondays.

The Exchange / The Vault 28 Street 47 Tel: 078 886 889 Large colonial mansion contains The Vault, Phnom Penh’s first private member’s club for thoses who have $1000 to burn. Underneath, the Exchange has elegany exposed brickwork and low lighting as well as an impressive fusion menu.

Open daily, 10am - midnight.

The Quay 277 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 224 894 Rooftop deck with spectacular views of the river is a great place to enjoy a drink during half price 4pm-8pm happy hour. Food is a mix of tapas and more substantial offerings, including an excellent duck confit.

Open daily 7am – 11pm.

The Lost Room 43 Street 21 Tel: 078 700 001 Eclectic from floor to ceiling, including the food on offer. From the former owners of Talkin’ to A Stranger, The Lost Room offers share size global dishes of fresh, local and imported

www.daughtersofcambodia.org

Italian

Visitor Centre

(café, shop, spa, DVD presentation) #65Eo, Street 178, Phnom Penh Tel: 078 657 678

Sugar ‘n Spice Garden Café #130A, Street 430, Phnom Penh

café

produce in an urban environment.

Bookings essential.

Open from 5pm, kitchen closes at 9.30pm. Closed Sundays. Lunch by appointment only.

shop

(café only) Tel: 070 372 660

spa

lunch • dessert • jewelry • bags • men’s accessories • mani-pedis • massage

Aria D’Italia 41EO Street 310 Tel: 012 840 705 Cute little Italian pizzeria tucked away between Street 57 and Street 63. Wellpriced lunch set menu and homemade ravioli. Home delivery available.

Open 10.30am - 2pm, 5.30pm - 10pm.

Bistro Romano NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park Tel: 023 228 822 Best known for its sumptuous Sunday Prosecco Brunch, this stylised Italian restaurant in the NagaWorld complex specialises in Italian cuisine. Open daily 11am - 11pm.

Casa Italia Sisowath Quay Tel: 092 230 207 Small house with terrace and lounge in front of the Cambodiana Hotel, across the garden. Specialising in fish dishes with a good wine selection, shakes, gelati and frappe.

Open from 3pm until late evening, closed Sundays.

Cafe Monivong Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Tel: 023 981 888 Indulge in home made antipasti, fresh prepared pasta and risotto as well as oven-baked, crispy pizzas and pair it all with the finest selection of Italian wines, every Saturday night 6pm - 10pm.

Do Forni Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 200 Sophisticated Italian diner set in the grounds of the Sofitel hotel, dishes up much more than your basic pizza and pasta. Excellent range of wines, dimmed lighting and plush surroundings make this an excellent romantic meal for two option.

Open daily 6.30pm - 10pm.

Dolce Italia da Giorgio 96 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 012 562 892 Authentic neapolitan pizzeria ristorante.

Pizza prepared in traditional wood-fired oven.

Open from 11:30am - 2pm and from 6pm - 10pm, closed on Sunday.

Genova Italian Restaurant 19Eo Street 154 Tel: 012 390 039 This small restaurant has the feel of an Italian trattoria with food just like mamma made. The spaghetti al pesto Genovese is its signature dish. Good range of meat and fish dishes as well as some Khmer dishes. Open daily 10am - midnight.

La Volpaia 20–22 Street 13 Tel: 023 992 739 Part of a global pizzeria chain that includes Florence, Tokyo, Seoul and Phnom Penh, the cuisine is excellent with pizza and pasta cooked fresh in front of your eyes.

Limoncallo 81E0 Sisowath Quay Tel: 081 800 210/ 081 800 240 Authentic Italian cuisine with pasta, risotto and pizzas prepared in the

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traditional way and baked in a blazing wood-fired oven.

Open daily 11:30am- 2:30pm, 6pm10:30pm Luna d’Autumno 6C Street 29 Tel: 023 220 895 Beautiful courtyard or stylish interior aircon restaurant, whichever you choose, Luna has more classical pizzas, both red and white, to choose from than most restaurants. Also serves excellent pasta and other up-market Italian food. Good wine cellar on view in the restaurant.

Open 11am - 2.30pm, 5.30pm 10.30pm.

Pasta & Vino 45 Street 288 Tel: 086 314 400 Cosy Italian spaghetteria that specialises in well-priced authentic Italian pasta and wines in a smokeless air-con environment.

Open daily 12pm - 2pm, 6pm - 10pm.

Pop Café da Giorgio 371 Sisowath Quay Tel: 012 562 892 Sophisticated, small Italian restaurant located next to the FCC that serves light, contemporary Italian cuisine including fresh pasta and pizzas.

Open daily 11.30am - 2.30pm, 6pm - 10pm.

Japanese & Korean

Fusion Sushi Cnr. Streets 47 & 84 Tel: 023 986 114 Located inside Cara Hotel this beautifully decorated restaurant dishes up excellent Japanese and Korean food.

Hachi Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra, 26 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 200 ext.: 6612 A taste of Japan in a Zen atmosphere with tatami rooms and sushi bar.

Open daily, 11.30am - 2.30pm, 6.30pm - 10.30pm.

Kan Ji Japanese Restaurant 128F Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 016 318 383/ 016 312 828.

Kan Ji is three floors of Japanese culinary delight in a bright and modern setting. Open for lunch and dinner, it features a stylish mix of ancient and modern creative cuisine.

Open daily, 11.30am – 2.30pm, 5.30pm – 10.30pm.

Le Seoul 62 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 012 971 516 Popular up-market South Korean restaurant specialising in BBQ, each table is equipped with its own charcoal burner, with all beef imported from the U.S. Open daily, 11am - 2.30pm, 5pm - 10pm.

Origami 88 Sothearos Bvd. Tel: 012 968 095 Up-market, contemporary Japanese restaurant with a spacious air-con area downstairs and four private rooms upstairs. Specialises in sushi and tempura, and has Asahi, Kirin and Sapporo beers.

Open daily 11.30am - 2pm, 5.30pm 9.30pm.

Rahu 159 Sisowath Quay Tel 023 215 179 Stunning, upscale atmosphere with

street cuisine

Lunch: 11:30 am – 2:00 pm Dinner: 6 pm – 10 pm

Bong-aim Cheng (Caramelised Palm Sugar Dessert) Conor Wall Price: 500 riel each Ingredients: The word ‘cheng’ describes the process in which banana, potato, yam, and coconut flesh are submerged in liquid palm sugar and heated for about 30 minutes. The sweet liquid is absorbed slowly, caramelising the desserts.

Served: After being boiled, the desserts are placed in a shallow tray that contains liquid palm sugar.

The seller will periodically spoon it over the desserts to keep them moist.

Taste: The distinctive sweet sugar is absorbed into the core of all four versions, but the texture of each differs.

• Banana (jayk cheng) has the softest texture and is my favourite. (2/5) • Potato (domloang cheng) has a dry texture similar to that of a roast potato. (1/5) • Yam (dtrao cheng) proves extremely dry and starchy, making the eating experience not so pleasant. (0/5) • Coconut Flesh (k’dteeh cheng) is the most absorbent substance, resulting in an overly greasy experience.

(0/5) Where to get it: Available from a variety of sellers who expertly balance trays on top of their heads.

Other Info: Usually available in the afternoon.

a mix of modern Chinese décor, high ceilings, muted colors and rich woods.

Japanese food takes the main stage but there is also Khmer and Western fusion cooking. A good place to go late night for sushi or a bowl of congee.

Open daily 5pm - 2am.

Small, friendly patio café serving good Mexican food and claiming to have the biggest burgers in town. Hard to find, Alley Cat is tucked down an alley at the back of the National Museum, the first on the right if you are coming from Street 178.

Yumi Restaurant, Bar and Grill 29a Street 288 Tel: 092 163 903 Elegant but inexpensive English-run Yakitori restaurant nestled in a quiet street in BKK that serves top-notch Japanese nibbles, hot and cold sake, plum wine, wine and beer. Don’t leave without trying the salt and chilli squid.

California II 79 Sisowath Qua Tel: 077 503 144 American-style bar with some of the best Mexican food in town, the excellent pool table and great tunes make this a good place to while away a few hours on the riverfront. Open 24/7 with good rooms upstairs.

Mexican & Tex-Mex

Cantina 347 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 222 502 A mainstay of the riverside scene, this is a popular meeting place for

Alley Cat Café Off Street 19 (side street behind Royal Art School) Tel: 012 306 845

Aircon Restaurant Art Exhibitions Dance Theatre German Classes Film School Musical Events Fixed +855 (0)23 224 140 Mobile +855 (0)10 312 333 Homepage: www.meta-house.com Email: mesterharm@gmx.net

Workshop Space Open-Air-Cinema AsiaLIFE Cambodia 67

local expats with a large selection of Mexican beers and tequilas, and sinfully good margaritas. Serves good Mexican fare, and features photographs that capture the changing face of Cambodia.

Kitchen open 3pm - 10:30pm. Closed Saturdays.

Casa Lika 16 Street 136 Tel. 012 429 542 American-run family restaurant serving up good Mexican fare in an authentic setting with rustic brick walls and colourful Mexican artwork, great music and even better tacos make this a good place to share some Coronas with friends.

Open 10am - midnight, closed on Mondays.

Freebird 69 Street 240, Tel: 023 224 712 Aircon American bar with neon lighting, a variety of memorabilia, comfortable seats and rock music. International menu with good lunch offers, an excellent range of bottled sauces, excellent International, Mexican food and burgers. Be prepared for some good solid R&R. Open 7am - midnight.

La CitĂĄ 13 Street 282 Tel: 092 388 123/ 092 626 123 www.lacita.ox2net.com Get ready to change your tune about what you think Mexican food is! Just one taste of our hand-rolled burritos, tacos and quesadillas will tell you how much effort we put into our mouthwatering products.

Open daily, 9am-10pm.

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Taqueria Corona 14E Street 51 (btwn Sihanouk Blvd and Street 242) Tel: 089 281 626 / 012 629 986 Enjoy our mexican specialties, barbacoa, cochinita pebil, texas chile, carnitas, pollo and carne asoda in our festive dining room.

Open daily from11.30am - 2pm, 6pm 10pm (Sunday evenings only).

Vegetarian

Fresh Salad Bar 37E0 Street 310 Tel: 081 555 559 / 016 977 790 The first salad bar in Phnom Penh which provides healthy organic salad and other foods to help you maintain you healthy lifestyle. We serve salad coffee and bakery goods. Free Wifi .

Free delivery, call Jung on 081 555 559.

Open daily, 8am - 10pm.

K’nyay (see restaurants Cambodian) The Vegetarian 11 Street 200 Tel: 012 905 766 A cosy, colourful restaurant focused on wholesome Asian and Western cuisine with all natural, fresh vegetarian ingredients.

Open 10am - 3pm, closed on Sundays.

The Vegetarian II 158 Street 19 Tel: 077 900 766 With a lush garden space in the heart of Phnom Penh, The Treez provides a relaxing dining experience. Whether it be amok, curry or tom yam, The Treez, creates vegetarian versions of popular Cambodian, Indian and Thai dishes.

imbibe

Champagne Season Darren Gall The end of the year is, for many, a time of celebration thanks to Christmas, New Year’s Eve and a holiday season with endless parties. It’s also a time for that eponymous celebratory tipple, Champagne.

It’s the drink that has launched a thousand ships (actually, many more) and showers podiums after motor races. It is raised as a toast to matrimony and has long been seen as the preferred drink of the aristocracy, served in coronation festivities throughout Europe and offered in tribute to foreign royalty.

Along the way, it has become firmly associated with luxury, festivities, rites of passage, achievement and refinement.

Indeed to party with Champagne seems to be a way of telling the world that you’ve ‘made it’.

The great irony of Champagne is that when bubbles first began to appear in the otherwise still wines, it was seen as a fault that would often result in havoc in the cellars.

The weak glass bottles of the time caused countless explosions and wine practitioners in the Champagne region fought tirelessly to prevent it.

Despite these efforts, the version of Champagne that contained bubbles began to find favour — perhaps initially for their relative rareness — among royalty. In due time,

Champagne became a national icon and a symbol of France’s reputation as a producer of luxury items.

So loved was Champagne by the British that during World War Two Sir Winston Churchill motivated the British troops by declaring: “Remember gentleman, it’s not just France we are fighting for, it’s Champagne.”

Even the traditional ‘sabrage’ — where a Champagne bottle is opened with a sabre — has a history in celebration. This extravagant method of opening the bottle became famous during the time of Napoleon, who once declared: “Champagne: In victory one deserves it, in defeat one needs it.”

A fine Champagne should have a very fine and persistent bead of small bubbles. The explosion of creamy mousse onto the front of the palate should be expansive and divine, with the mid palate expressive of the house style — from the brioche notes of Chardonnay, to the red fruits and truffle notes of Pinot Noir, and the more earthy notes and great length of Pinot Meunier.

The back palate must always be crisp, clean and refreshing, with a hint of chalky minerals.

The long, lingering aftertaste should invite you to take another sip of the wine once famously described as drinking the stars.

Darren Gall is a 20-year veteran of the wine industry with experience in all of its facets, from brand ambassador to winemaking and grape growing. For information on any aspects of the industry, contact him at: darren@auskhmer.com

Fine Wine & Dine

#15-17, Street 240, Phnom Penh, Kingdom of Cambodia Tel: 855 (0)23 990 951 H.P.: 855 (0)17 588 191 Email: contact@redaproncambodia.com

Open 10:30am - 8:30pm, closed Sundays.

Vego’s 3E0 Street 51 Tel: 012 984 596 Salad bar with an emphasis on greens and a menu of healthy western items. Also offering bagels, salads and wraps with a wide array of super fresh toppings. Choose from ready-made or d.i.y. options. Also on offer are a vegetarian soup of the day as well as fresh-squeezed juices, yogurt and granola.

Cafés

Art Café 37 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 012 834 517 Elegant bistro in the style of a European coffee house is now transposed to the Meta House with regular classical music performances.

Blue Pumpkin 245 Sisowath Quay and at Monument Books on Norodom Blvd Tel: 023 998 153 Siem Reap’s favourite café also offers two locations in Phnom Penh, serving breakfast sets, Asian and Western entrées and an array of ice cream flavours. Open daily from 6am - 11pm.

Botanic Cafe-Art gallery 126 Street 19 Tel: 077589458 botaniccafe@yahoo.com, www.botanica-gallerycafe.com Cafe and food inside over 80 year old building, with garden is display art works, pot plants and premium souvenirs. First floor exhibition and event space is for promote local artists. We have special lunch and dinner set for your special times.

Open daily 8am – 9pm.

Brown Coffee & Bakery 17 Street 214 Tel: 023 217 262 Stylish, locally owned café with bakery on the premises serves a variety of coffees and pastries, with the green tea latte a house speciality.

Open 7.30am - 8pm.

Café El Mundo 219 Sisowath Quay Tel: 012 520 775 Affordable and stylish riverside café and restaurant with adjacent apartments for short-term hire.

Seating available on the mezzanine lounge, ground-floor restaurant and on the streetside terrace.

Open 6.30am - 10.30pm.

Café Fresco 363 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 217 041 Cnr. Streets 51 & 306, Tel: 023 224 891 The FCC’s café chain sells strong Illy coffee and mix-and-match sandwiches. Interiors have a slight retro 70s feel to it and there are pleasant outside seating areas. There are currently four outlets in town Open 6am to pm.

Café Living Room 9 Street 306, Tel: 023 726 139 Set in a stylish villa, Living Room has healthy salads and snack plates, plus a great tea and coffee menu. Has a kid’s playroom and baby changing room and uses organic and fair trade produce. Open everyday from 7am to 8.30pm.

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Café Namu 28b Cnr Streets 30 & 57, Tel: 023 220 074 Breakfast, brunch and lunch venue.

Serving pizza, cakes, cookies, desserts, teas, coffees and fresh juices.

Café Yejj 170 Street 450, Tel: 012 543 360, 092 600 750 Quiet, cosy café serving bistro-style western cuisine, with extensive range of coffees, pasta dishes, pannini and wraps and fabulous cheesecake making this an ideal spot to escape the bustle of the nearby Russian Market. Open every day from 7am - 9pm.

Chill Ice Cream & Coffee Lounge 219D Sisowath Quay, Tel: 092 547 534 Pretty, casual lounge on the riverside offering coffee, sandwiches, cocktails, and some of the best homemade ice cream in town, as well as inventive ice cream cocktails.

Open 11am - midnight.

Coffee Room 385 Street 215, Tel: 098 518 888 The first coffee house in Phnom Penh to have an electronic menu, at the Coffee Room you simply tap in your order and wait for your order to arrive. Serves coffees, juices.

Pastries and breakfast. Open daily from 7.30am - 6pm.

Cross Town Café 193 Street 29, Tel: 017665204 Japanese-owned restaurant with welcoming wooden interior. which spreads from floor to bar. A recently opened venue serving traditional Japanese cuisine with an added twist, the restaurant aims to add new dishes to its menu every week. Open daily from 11am - 10pm.

Daughters of Cambodia 65E0 Street 178, Tel: 077 657 678 www.daughtersofcambodia.org The cafe, called Sugar ‘n Spice, serves light lunches (salads, sandwiches), a few main courses, home baked goods, desserts, coffee and some original smoothies. The cafe is a place for vocational training, where trainees will train and then have the opportunity to graduate into working in top end restaurants and hotels. Value for money. Free Wifi.

There’s also a shop selling clothing, accessories and jewellery made on site. Or relax in the spa which offers head, shoulder, face and hand and foot treatments.

Gloria Jean’s Corner of Street 51 & Street 310, Tel : 092 404 365 Sisowath Quay along Phnom Penh Port, Tel: 092 555 973 Canadia Tower Monivong Blvd., Tel: 092 555 937 Popular cafe in three differences area BKK 1, on the riverside and inside the commercial building Canadia Tower. Enjoy various of delicious coffees, teas, smootheis and more.

Java Café & Gallery 56 Sihanouk Blvd, Tel: 023 987 420 (see restaurants, international) Kiriya Café No.174, St.51 Cnr St.370 Tel: 016 363 730 Opening Nov 1. This Japanese café chain offers good locally sourced coffee, delicious desserts and a

relaxing atmosphere.

Open daily 6am - 2am.

Morning Café 32C Street 592, Tel: 023 982 109 Cosy air-conditioned coffee house with relaxed atmosphere, located in Toul Kork district serves Khmer, Thai and European cuisine. Open every day for breakfast, lunch and dinner from 6am to 9pm.

The Deli 13 Street 178, Tel: 012 851 234 Chic delicatessen, bakery and small restaurant serving excellent bread and pastries, with take-away menu.

Open from 7am to 9pm (closed Sundays).

The Shop 39 Street 240, Tel: 092 955 963, 023 986 964 Stylish café, with a wide range of fresh bread, tempting patisseries and juices, excellent salads and sandwiches. Crowded at lunchtime, but the small, cool courtyard at the back creates a perfect haven from the sun. Has a Chocolate Shop three doors along, and a second outlet in Tuol Kork. Open 7am to 7pm (Mon. to Sat, 7am to 3pm Sun.)

Bars

Aristocrat Cigar Bar NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park, Tel: 023 228 822 Club aimed at attracting wealthy expats and Khmers who like a good cigar and glass of wine. Not as stuffy as you might imagine with cigars from $10. Open daily from noon to midnight.

AQVARIVM Bar 23 Street 55 Corner Street 254, Tel: 077 536 342 Drop by for Happy Hour drinks and nibbles from 5:00-9:00 PM. Available for special occasion and group discounts. AQVARIVM: Drink like a fish!

Cadillac Bar and Grill 219 E0 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 011 713 567 Riverfront air-con bar and restaurant.

Has good American cuisine as well as ariverfront vantage to watch the world go by.

California II 79 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 077 503 144 (see Mexican & Tex-Mex restaurants) Cantina 347 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 222 502 (see Mexican & Tex-Mex restaurants) Chow 277 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 224 894 Contemporary and sophisticated riverfront restaurant that serves Southeast Asian cuisine, a wide range of cocktails, juices and Illy coffee. The rooftop deck with spectacular views of the river is a great place to have a drink during its half-price 4pm to 8pm happy hour.

Open daily from 7am to 11pm.

Do It All Pub & Bistro 61 Street 174, Tel: 023 220 904 Dishes out African, Asian and Western cuisine, with hip hop and reggae played into the early hours of the morning. Open daily 9am to 4am.

Elephant Bar Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Street 92 Tel: 023 981 888 Flamboyant carpet, comfortable wicker chairs and hotel pianist provide a sense of a time gone by, you can imagine Jackie Kennedy drinking here. Its many signature cocktails, including the femme fatale make this a popular place with expats especially during the two-for-one happy hours (4pm to 8pm). Open 2pm to midnight from Monday to Friday. Saturday and Sunday from 12pm to midnight.

Equinox 3A Street 278, Tel: 012 586 139 or 092 791 958 (see Restaurants, International) FCC 363 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 724 014 (see Restaurants, International) Freebird 69 Street 240, Tel: 023 224 712 (see Mexican & Tex-Mex restaurants) Green Vespa 95 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 012 887 228 (see Restaurants International) Harem Shisha Lounge 157 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 990 244 Share in an ancient ritual and enjoy the many fruity flavours of the shisha pipe at Harem. With lavish golden surroundings and chilled world house beats, the Penh’s first shisha bar offers signature cocktails and exotic Middle Eastern tapas menu. Open from 5pm till late.

Howie’s Bar 32 Street 51 Air-conditioned and open until very very late, this is the Heart’s unofficial chill-out bar although the sound system could give its neighbour a run for its money.

Tends to be a popular late night hang-out, especially around the ‘mini’ pool table. Open 7pm to 6am.

K West 1 Street 154 (Cnr. Sisowath Quay), Tel: 023 214 747 (see Restaurants, French) Le Bar Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra, 26 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 999 200 A modern colonial style lobby bar with a fine selection of comfort food, tapas, champagnes, wines, premium spirits and large selection of coffees and teas.

Le Moon Cnr of Sisowath Quay and Street 154 Tel: 023 214 747 Rooftop terrace bar at Amanjaya Hotel has arguably the view of the river of any of the city’s rooftop bars. Full bar and small food menu, while the service is slow enough to afford you sufficient time to soak up the view.

Liquid 3B Street 278, Tel: 023 720 157 Welcoming open air bar on golden street run by the same owner as Flavours. Has one of the best pool tables in town with happy hour from 5pm to 8pm.

Lobby Lounge 296 Mao Tse Tung Blvd (InterContinental Hotel), Tel: 023 424 888 An elegant lounge situated in the lobby of the Intercontinental Hotel.

Reasonable prices and excellent service. Open daily from 10am – 11:30pm. .

Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd, opposite Phnom Penh centre. Tel: 012 607 465 / 067 867 305 www.meta-house.com Multi-media arts centre established

by German film-maker Nico Mesterham has a very cool bar.

Open from 2pm till midnight. Closed Mondays.

Metro Café Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148, Tel: 023 222 275 (see Restaurants International) One More Pub 16E Street 294, Tel: 017 327 378 English-style bar with comfortable wooden bar stools. No hip hop or techno, only great classic 60s & 70s music. Has terracotta-tiled terrace and 3 guest rooms upstairs. Open from 5pm to late, happy hour from 5pm to 7pm, closed Sundays.

Paddy Rice 213-217 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023990321, www.paddyrice.net Irish sports bar on riverside with big screen live sports, serves home cooked western and Asian favourites alongside a fully stocked

bar including Guinness and a fine selection Irish whiskeys with daily happy hour from 4pm to 8pm. Often has live music events and a weekly pub quiz. Open 7.30am to late.

Rising Sun 20 Street 178, Tel: 012 970 718 English-style pub with reliable breakfast, meat pies and hamburgers. Has a regular following around the bar at night especially on Fridays. Great posters of British films and TV classics adorn the walls.

Ideal for that touch of nostalgia and good fish and chips – though not wrapped in a newspaper. Open daily from 7am till late.

Riverside Bistro Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148, Tel: 012 277 882 023 213 898 (see Restaurants International) .

Sharky Bar 126 Street 130, Tel: 012 228 045 , www.sharkybar.blogspot.com Countless pool tables and a large balcony to look out over the street.

Guaranteed to be lively – a place where anything can happen, especially if you get a bit too close to the local clientele. Serves good Mexican food, and has frequent live music. Open 4pm to 2am, take away 5pm til late.

The Bungalows Mekong River, Tel: 077 555 447

Stylish simplicity located within a quick cruise from Sisowath Quay port. The floating bar serves basic drinks and nibbles. Open Saturdays and Sundays from 3pm to 8pm, available for private events if booked at least two days in advance.

The Chinese House 128 Sothearos Blvd., Tel: 023 356 399 Decadent cocktail bar set in beautiful old Chinese house. Has art exhibitions, film nights and parties down stairs and opulence upstairs.

Open from 6pm until late, closed on Tuesdays.

The Tap Room Kingdom Breweries 1748 National Road 5 Tel: 023 430 180 www.kingdombreweries.com Sate of the art European brewery specialising in premium pilsner.

Tours of the facility are organised on a regular basis, culminating in frothy cold ones at the brewery’s bar overlooking the Tonle Sap. Zeppelin Bar 109C Street 51 Tel: 012 881 181 Over 1,000 vinyl albums played by stone-faced DJ owner in small bar next to the infamous Walkabout.

Remarkably good food considering the setting, especially late at night.

Try the dumplings.

Open daily 5pm - 4am.

Wine Bars Bouchon Wine Bar

3-4 Street 246 Tel: 077 881 103 Sophisticated wine bar with a very French ambience and a wide range of French wines and bar food. Often has music as well as a mellow jazz sound track.

Open noon until midnight.

Elyxir 3 Street 466 (near Thai Embassy) Tel: 023 211 711 Elyxir is dedicated to wine, luxury and gastronomy. Each dish was dreamed up to marry perfectly with the wines on our menu. Elyxir boasts a swimming pool, champagne bar and private rooms. All our wines are available at our Wine Shop.

Open 10am until late, closed Mondays.

Le Sauvignon 6B Street 302 Tel: 092 730 250 Contemporary wine ban ad restaurant serves a variety of wines with a focus on high-end French whites. Open Monday to Saturday, 12pm until late.

Open Wine 219 Street 19 Tel: 023 233 527 Large wine shop and deli with wellpriced wines from around the world.

Has outside dining area.

Open daily 7am - 11pm.

Rubies Cnr Street s 240 & 19 Tel: 015 670 024 Intimate wood-pannelled wine bar

that is a mainstay of the female expat population with well-priced wines.

Often has parties at the weekend.

Gay

Blue Chilli 36 Street 178 Tel: 012 566 353 www.bluechillibar.com This welcoming bar run by Thai national Oak is currently the number one gay bar in town. Chic décor makes this one of the coolest bars in town, even if you’re straight. The drag shows on Friday and Saturday are an additional draw.

Open 5pm until late.

K2 25k Street 268 Tel: 093 665 225 www.fb.com/K2Bar.PhnomPenh Classy addition to the Phnom Penh scene and it’s first straight-friendly, chill-out bar. Contemporary design and LGBTIQ artwork. Secluded space, attracting a socially conscious, Khmer crowd who mix easily with expats/visitors.

Open 6pm until late.

The Rainbow Bar 73 Street 172 Tel: 097 741 4187 Intimate bar designed to get to know people better has a range of welldesigned cocktails to make the night go with a swing.

Nightclubs

Bouchon Wine Bar (see Wine Bars) Occasional performances by jazz bands Darlin Darlin NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park, Tel: 023 228 822 Top-end nightclub with live music popular among the high-flyers of the city. Semi-private booths in a chic environment make for an unrivalled experience. Open daily from 7pm until late.

Equinox (see Restaurants – Intrenational) Has regular live music from expat and cal bands at weekends and swing dancing on Thursdays.

Heart of Darkness 38 Street 51 Tel: 023 222 415 The most famous of the city’s

nightspots with a good-sized dance floor make this the in-place in town.

Has well priced spirits and mixers and is totally packed out on Friday and Saturday nights. Open 8:30pm to 4am.

Mao’s Cnr Street 106 & Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 992 726 Chairman Mao has been reconstructed into one of Phnom Penh’s liveliest nightspots with djs and occasional live bands. What would the chairman have said?

Open 5pm -2am.

Memphis 3 Street 118 Tel: 012 871 263 Only permanent rock venue in town with a house band that plays covers from 10pm til 1:30am, later at weekends. Also has open mike sessions on Mondays. Open from 8pm til late, closed Sundays. 2-for-1 cocktails everday from 8pm until 10pm.

Paddy Rice (see Bars) Often has live music events.

Pontoon Street 172 Now no longer the Penh’s floating hotspot, Pontoon still manages to pack in the punters, especially when international DJs are in town.

Riverhouse Lounge 6 Street 110 Tel: 023 212 302 The alternative dance venue for both expats and young Khmers with a selfcontained air-con dance room and great balcony to chill out. Mon-Wed, Fri is hip hop, Thu is Ladies night, Sat is house and Sun is dance remix.

Open daily 4pm - 2am.

Saint Tropez 31 Street 174 Tel: 077 212 100 097 9000 401 Upscale club, complete with fake beach, deck bar, that suggests the French Riviera.

Open daily 6pm - 2pm.

Sharky Bar 126 Street 130 Tel: 012 228 045 www.sharkybar.blogspot.com Has regular live gigs at weekends involving local and expat bands with an emphasis on heavy rock.

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GRAND OPENNING!!

Shigeta Dental Clinic

Special Price for All Treatment / Services Cleaning Package for $20 only!

Extended until December 31,2012.

LISTINGS

$20

High-End Japanese Dental Clinic that cater your dental needs from Monday to Friday 8:00am to 8:00pm Staurday and Sunday also open.

INCLUDES: -full mouth scaling (teeth stone cleaning) -full mouth polishing (shinning teeth) -total examination (free check – up) -free consultation (free consultation by Dr. Shigeta)

023 223 225

info@shigetadental.com www.shigetadental.com #25E, St. 294 & St. 21 Tonlebassac Chamkamon Phnom Penh

TROPICAL & TRAVELLERS MEDICAL CLINIC Dr.Scott BSc.MBChB. DRCOG.DipVen. (U.K.) -20 years of medical experience in Cambodia

Tel: 012 898981 No.88 St.108 Phnom Penh www.travellersmedicalclinic.com

culture Cinemas

The Flicks 39B Street 95 Tel: 078 809 429, theflicks-cambodia.com A festival movie house with a revolving weekly schedule of international films. Also offers possibility for movie parties, with option to hire the movie room for a private session (max 30 people).

Screenings generally at 2pm, 4pm, 6pm or 8pm, but check the website for schedule and ticket prices.

The Cineplex 5th Floor Sorya Shopping Centre, Tel: 017 666 210 www.thecineplexs.com International-standard three-screen cineplex featuring the latest Digital 3D technology and the most recent Hollywood and international releases, located in the heart of downtown with ample parking, shopping and eating options.

Open 9am - 10:30pm.

Le Cinema French Institute 218 Street 184 Tel: 023 213 124. 100-seat cinema shows international art house and mainstream movies with occasional films in English.

Children’s cinema on Saturday mornings at 10am. cinema on Saturday mornings at 10 am.

Legend Cinema 3rd Floor City Mall, Monireth Blvd.

Tel: 088 954 9857 www.legend-cinemas.com International quality cinema showing Hollywood releases in air-conditioned environment including 3D. Screenings:10am - 9pm, box office: 10am - 9pm.

Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd., (opp. Phnom Penh centre) Tel: 012 607 465 Movie shorts and documentaries from Cambodia and the rest of Asia.

Movies normally start at 7pm, closed Mondays.

Galleries

Bophana Audiovisual Resource Centre 64 Street 200 Tel: 023 992 174 Preserving much of Cambodia’s audiovisual material, has regular exhibitions.

Open 8am - 6pm Mon - Fri, 2pm - 6pm Sat. Dori Thy Gallery 9 Street 278 Tel: 012 661 552 Features the black and white photographs of German photographer, Doris Boettcher.

Open Saturday and Sunday 10am-6pm.

Equinox (see Restaurants, International) Cool French-run restaurant and bar has art exhibitions each month.

FCC Phnom Penh (see Restaurants, International) Phnom Penh’s landmark restaurant has a permanent, rotating exhibition devoted to photography.

French Institute 218 Street 184Tel: 023 213 124

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Formerly the Alliance Française, the French Culture Centre (CCF) is one of Phnom Penh’s major venues for the arts. Promoting French culture and Khmer Ongoing cultural activities include exhibitions, festivals, and film screenings. Onsite shop Carnets d’Asie offers a selection of French books.

Java Café & Gallery (see Restaurants, International) Contemporary art gallery with regular exhibitions of Cambodian and international artists. Has second gallery on the ground floor. Website has details about Cambodia’s contemporary art scene.

Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 012 607 465 Multimedia arts centre on three floors has regular exhibitions, interviews with filmmakers and short films, contains the Art Café.

Open Tues – Sun, 2pm - 10pm.

Reyum Institute of Arts & Culture 47 Street 178 Tel: 023 217 149 Gallery with regular exhibitions of Cambodian artists. Part of an NGO established to preserve traditional and contemporary Cambodian arts.

Sa Sa Bassac 18 Sothearos Boulevard, Upstairs.

An expansion of the Sa Sa Art Gallery and a merger with Bassac Art Projects, Sa Sa Bassac is an artist-run gallery for contemporary art. Includes a library, reading and workshop room, and a 60-metre gallery space. Ongoing visual literacy programmes.

The 240 83 Street 240 Tel: 023 218 450 Adjacent to its lobby, The 240 Hotel houses a gallery space dedicated to contemporary art. Picking up where The Chinese House left off, the gallery space presents an ongoing programme of local and international artists.

Open daily from 7am to 10pm.

Performing Arts

Amrita Performing Arts 128-G9 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 220 424 www.amritaperformingarts.org Performance art company that puts on contemporary & classical music and theatre.

Apsara Arts Association 71 Street 598 Tel: 011 550 302 Organisation that promotes Cambodian arts & culture. Open from 7.30am - 10.30am Cambodian Living Arts 407 Street 246 Art organisation devoted to the revival of traditional Khmer performing arts that puts on occasional performances.

Chaktomuk Conference Hall Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 725 119 Designed by master Cambodian architect Vann Molyvann, this under-utilised building is worth a visit. Open from 7am to 11.30am and 2pm to 5pm (Mon. to Fri.).

Chenla Theatre Cnr. Mao Tse Tung & Monireth Blvds.

Tel: 023 883 050 www.culturalcenter-cambodia.com One of the capital’s major theatres, it has regular performances of theatre, dance and music.

Epic Arts 1DE0 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 998 474 www.epicarts.org.uk Organisation that uses art to empower people with disabilities.

Sovanna Phum Khmer Art Association 166 Street 99 corner of 484 Tel: 023 987 564 Theatre with performances of shadow puppetry, classical and masked dances every Friday and Saturday at 7.30pm.

LISTINGS

leisure & wellness Amusement

Cambodian Country Club Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla Tel: 012 231 755 A peaceful heaven providing tennis, swimming, badminton, fitness centre and horse riding, 15 minutes away from the city.

Open from 6.30am until late.

Parkway Square 113 Mao Tse Tung Blvd.

Ten-pin bowling alley and dodgem track.

Phnom Penh Water Park 50 Street 110, Tel: 023 881 008 Traditional mix of slides and wave pools is open daily from 9.30am to 5.30pm.

Phnom Tamao Wildlife Park Phnom Tamao, 44 kilometres out of the capital along Highway 2.

Cambodia’s top wildlife centre. All animals are either rescued from traders or bred at the centre. Many of the animals are critically endangered.

Open daily 8am - 4pm.

Boat Cruises

The Butterfly Cambodia Tel: 012 602 955 thebutterflycambodia@gmail.com Cambodian river adventures, sunset cruises, birthdays and events to floating villages, Silk Island. Plan your trip, per hour, half-day and full-day rates available.

Classes

Cambodian Cooking Class Frizz Restaurant, 67 Street 240 Tel: 012 524 801 First and only Khmer cooking school for travellers & expats in Phnom Penh, includes transport to the market and a colourful 16-page recipe booklet.

Open 10am - 10pm.

Capoeira Home of English, Building D 10B Street 57, Tel: 012 242 396 Lessons in this rhythmic Brazilian cross between dance and martial arts are held every Tuesday from 6.30pm to 8pm.

Central School of Ballet Phnom Penh 10 Street 138 (entrance on Street 406 www.centralschoolofballet.com Cambodia’s first purpose-built ballet school offering classical ballet training for children in the afternoons, contemporary dance, ballet and dance conditioning for adults in the evenings Spacious dance studio equipped with large, custom-made mirrors, barres and a professional, sprung dance floor.

Equestrian Centre CCC, Street 2004 Group 6 Toeuk Thla, Tel: 015 231 755/ 012 704 759 With 31 ponies and horses, an international sized arena and spacious

stables, the only horseriding centre in Phnom Penh Tuesdays to Sundays, 9am to 11am and 2pm to 5.30pm The Flicks Community Movie House 39b, Street 95, @The Empire, 34, Street 130. theflicks-cambodia.com Daily classes in yoga and pilates, check website for schedule, prices and signup form. Stress relief massage therapy sessions by appointment.

Global Art 1 Street 181 & Street 475 (nr Chinese Embassy) Tel: 023 222 084/ 087 222 084 World renowned art and creativity program for young children. Franchisee of Global Art Group. Available in 17 countries with more than 400 centres worldwide.

Music Arts School 9A Street 370 Tel: 023 997 290 www.music-arts-school.org New NGO school providing music training for Cambodians and expats - of all ages and levels - at affordable tuition fees. Learn guitar, piano, violin, vocals, and tradtional Khmer instruments. Also has a scholarship fund to provide music education to the less fortunate.

Nataraj Yoga Center 52 Street 302 Tel 012 250 817 www.yogacambodia.com Daily classes in yoga and pilates, check website for schedule and prices.

Photography Tours 126 Street 136, Tel: 092 526 706 www.nathanhortonphotography.com Weekend photography tuition and guided tours to Kampong Chnang and Udong, covering technical and creative considerations in the context of travel photography.

Scuba Nation Dive Centre 18 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 012 715 785 Learn to scuba dive in Phnom Penh.

The academic part of the course takes place in a local hotel pool, while the real diving is in Sihanoukville.

Open 9am – 6pm, Sun 9am – 5pm.

Simphony Music School No. 243, Street 51, BKKI, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 727 345/ 097 888 8787 www.simphony.com.kh Simphony Music School is the first official music school in Cambodia recognized by the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts, Royal government of Cambodia. The faculty is composed by experienced and qualified music teachers from overseas, speaking fluent English, Chinese, and French. Our curriculum is based on USA curriculum following Orff and Kodály music teaching methods.

The Tennis Club CCC, Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla, Tel: 017 847 802 The two courts are equipped with specially adapted flooring unique in Cambodia, and with quality lightning allowing play past sunset. Skilled English and Cambodian speaking teachers available for private or group lessons. Open daily.

Yoga for life 126 Street 19 Tel: 077589458 Learn to release stress and tension,

find peace and live a healthy life with yoga classes taught by yoga and massage virtuoso, Azmi Samdjaga from Singapore. Classes every Wednesday from 7:30pm witht more classes starting late June 2012. Healthy food and Wifi are also available.

Chemists

U-Care Pharmacy 26-28 Sothearos Bvd. Tel: 023 222 499 14 Sihanouk Bvd. Tel: 023 224 099 High quality western-style chemist and pharmacy that sells the full range of beauty products, including international brands.

Counselling Services

Alcoholics Anonymous 11 Street 420 Tel: 012 813 731 www.aacambodia.org Meets on Friday, Wednesday & Sunday.

Indigo Psychological Services 28 Street 460 Tel: 023 222 614, indigocambodia@gmail.com Professional counselling services in English, French or Khmer for adults, adolescents, children, couples, and families. Assessment and intervention services for children and adolescents with learning and developmental difficulties.

Narcotics Anonymous 11 Street 420, Monivong Blvd., Tel: 012 813 731 NA meets on Monday, Thursday at 8pm and Saturday at 7pm.

Dance

Dance Workshop Cambodia Tel 012 634 008 danceworkshopcambodia@gmail.com The International Dance Connection’ Since 2007, Professional Tuition in R.A.D Ballet, Modern dance and Jazz, Tap, Neo Classical and Contemporary, Classes held after school, 3-6 years, 7-9 years, 10-12 years, 13-16 years, and open adult classes for beginners and intermediate to advanced..

Dental

European Dental Clinic 160A, Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 211 363 www.europeandentalclinic-asia.com Total dental care, Implant, Orthodontist Treatment by expat dentists.

Open Mon - Fri 8am-12pm, 2pm-7pm.

Sat, 8am-1pm International Dental Clinic Phnom Penh 193 Street 208 Tel 023 212 909 www.imiclinic.com Siem Reap 545 National Road N6, Banteay Chas, Stor Kram, Tel: 063 767 618 IMI Dental Cosmetic and Restorative Dentistry Centre has been successfully creating beautiful smiles in Phnom Penh and throughout Cambodia.

Open Mon – Sat, 8am -7pm, Sun 9am - 12pm.

Shigeta Dental Clinic 25 Street 294 cnr Street21 Tel: 023 223 225 010705083 Email: info@shigetadental.com Faebook: shigetadentalclinic High-end Japanese Dental Clinic that caters your dental needs.

Open from Monday to Sunday 8am - 8pm.

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SOS Dental Clinic 161 Street 51 Tel: 023 216 911 International standard dental clinic. Full time dentist Dr. Antonia Moa specialises in pediatric dentistry as well as catering for adults’ dental needs. Services range from routine check ups and cleanings to extractions.

Open 9am - 12pm, 2pm - 6pm Mon – Fri, 9am - 12pm Sat. Open 24/7 for emergencies.

Gyms

The InterContinental Fitness Center 3/F Mao Tse Toung Boulevard, Tel: 023 424 888 ext. 5000 A sophisticated retreat from the crowds, The InterContinental Fitness Center is the place to attain peak performance and wellbeing. Pump up with a full body workout on state-of-the-art equipment, benefit from the experience and guidance of qualified trainers, and relax all year round in the open-air swimming pool.

Fitness Centre CCC, Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla, Tel: 015 704 759 Achieve individual targets whether sports specific or to tone, lose weight, build strength or improve cardiovascular fitness for a healthier and fitter lifestyle.

Open daily 6.30am until late.

Raffles Amrita Spa Raffles Le Royal Hotel Tel: 023 981 888 Modern gym and pool in Phnom Penh’s most elegant hotel. Use of gym, pool, sauna and Jacuzzi is available to nonguests.

Open 6am - 10pm.

Physique Club Hotel Cambodiana, 313 Sisowath Quay Tel: 012 810 432 Reasonable selection of equipment in the gym and a pool overlooking the river.

Open 6am - 10pm.

The Gym at The Place 90 Sihanouk Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 699 Modern establishment featuring a fully equipped gym and weekly classes in dance, yoga and aerobics.

Open 6am - 10pm , Mon – Fri, 8am 10pm Sat/Sun

Hairdressers

De Gran 19 Street 352 Tel: 023 999 707 Classy yet affordable Japanese-run hair salon in beautiful premises with excellent service.

Open 10am – 8pm, closed Tues The Dollhouse 46AE0 Street 322 Tel: 010 329 999 www.dollhousecambodia.com Salon offers cutting, colouring and various treatments, including the Brazilian Keratin Treatment with Collagen to replenish the condition of your hair.

Western hairdresser with international experience. Open Tues – Sat 9am- 7pm, Sun 11am-7pm.

The French Element Himawari Hotel Unit D, 313 Sisowath Quay Tel: 077 263 332 www.thefrenchelement.com Over-looking the Tonle Sap, wonderful spot to relax and pamper yourself.

Offering all hair services such as highlights, colour, cut, Brazilian Keratin Treatment and more. International hairdresser.

Open 10am - 8pm, closed Sun.

Hair & Nail Studio 51D Street 214 Tel: 023 992 626 Sleek Cambodian-run beauty salon offers quality nail care using OPI products, and hair, body and facial treatments.

Open 9am - 8pm.

La Reine Salon 57 Sihanouk Boulevard Tel: 023 212 621 / 092 610 111 www.lareinefashion.com http://www.facebook.com/La%20Reine We provide Hair cut, Make-up, Hair style, Hair color, Hair perm, Hands-Feet Spa, Manicure – Pedicure, Nail color using OPI products with excellent services and reasonable price.

Open daily 8 am – 8 pm.

Medical

American Medical Centre Ground Floor Cambodiana Hotel 313 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 991 863 Led by American surgeon, team of international and Khmer doctors provide general practice services to clients. Can arrange emergency evacuation. 24/7 service.

International Chiropractic Clinic, 67 Bis Street 240, (100m from Monivong Blvd Tel: 023 223 101 www.cambodiachiropractic.com First and only Chiropractic clinic licensed in Cambodia. Our chiropractors are US trained and we provide modern Chiropractic care, physiotherapy and custom made medical grade orthotics. Common conditions treated include neck and back pain, sports injuries, knee pain.

Open Mon - Fri 8.30am-6pm , Sat 8.30am-1pm.

International SOS Medical Clinic 161 Street 51 Tel: 023 216 911 Global provider of medical assistance and international healthcare. Expat and Khmer doctors offer general practice, specialist and emergency medical services. Appointments 8am - 5:30pm Mon – Fri, 8am - 12pm, Sat. Open 24/7 for emergencies.

Physiotherapy Phnom Penh 45C Street 456 Tel: 023 99 63 44 General physiotherapy practice specialising in manual therapy, sports injuries and acupuncture Royal Rattanak Hospital 11 Street 592, Toul Kork

Tel. 023 991 000 www.royalrattanakhospital.com A Thai owned and run private hospital with extensive services that strives to provide high standard and quality medical care by professional care team.

Optics

Grand Optics 11 Norodom Bvd. 337 Monivong Bvd. 150 Sihanouk Blvd.

Tel: 023 213 585 Modern opticians with the latest equipment including free computerised eye test. Makes prescription glasses and lenses.

Pools

Asia Club 456 Monivong Bvd. Tel: 023 721 766 Beautiful swimming pool at rear of Man Han Lou Restaurant. Members get a discount at both restaurant and Master Kang Health Care Centre.

Spas

Amara Spa Cnr Sisowath Quay & St.110 Tel: 023 998 730 www.amaraspa.hotelcara.com Comprehensive day spa providing a wide selection of facials, body massages and treatments, arranged in a four-storey modern facility at riverfront.

Open 11am - 11pm.

Aziadee Spa 16 a/b Street 282 Tel: 023 996 921 aziadee1@yahoo.fr French-run spa offering a good choice of treatments, a range of massages, scrubs, facials, floral baths, manicures, pedicures and waxing in relaxing and tranquil surroundings.

Open 9am-9pm Bi Nail Salon 213a E0 Stret 310 Tel: 023 6324 524 097 798 1122 Bi NAiL is a full service nail salon, for both women and men. Our Japanesetrained nail artists have years of experience. We provide expert personal care in a quiet and relaxing atmosphere.

Full Set Care (Manicure and Pedicure) More than 250 Nail Lacquers and More than 350 Nail Design Simples. Acrylic and Gel Nail (Gel Colors) are available.

Open daily 8am – 7pm.

Bliss 29 Street 240 Tel: 023 215 754 Health spa at back and upstairs in this

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beautiful French colonial building.

Open 9am - 9pm, closed Monday.

flowers as part of its treatment.

Open 10am - 3am.

Bodia Spa 26-28 Sothearos Blvd.

023 226 199 www.bodia-spa.com Using natural, own-brand products Bodia spa offers body wraps, floral baths, scrubs, facials, aromatherapy, massages and mani-pedies, alongdside Jacuzzi and steam. The peaceful atmosphere is enhanced by scented oils and soft music.

Open daily 9am – 9pm.

Thida Salon 16 Street 63 btwn Mao Tse Toung Blvd & Street 466 Tel: 023 223 270 012 692 360 www.facebook.com/thidasalon Recently opened in August, 2012. The staff are trained in the use of Japanese Nail and Esthetics technology. There is also a comfortable café with free Wifi.

Japanese sun-care products and jewelry manufactured in Japan by Japanese designer are on sale.

Open 9am-7pm, closed Tue.

Derma-Care Skin Clinic 161B Norodom Tel: 023 720 042 / 012 415 552 Two qualified dermatologists, this professional skin clinic offers a range of beauty treatments using American Derma-Rx products, minor dermatologic surgery, antioxidant boosters, chemical peeling, and lipolysis.

Open 9am - 9pm.

Derma-MK Skin Center 183 Street 63 Tel: 023 452 5626 Focused on Dermalogica products, this care facility offers facial treatments, including anti-aging and brightening, as well as body treatments such as body scrubs and massage.

Dermal Spa 4C Street 57 Tel: 023 720 042/ 012 415 552 Spa offering beauty salon, foot massage and body massage servies, specializes in Dermalogica skin and beauty products.

Open daily 9am – 9pm.

EL Skin and Wellness Centre 115E0 Street 101 Tel: 012 681 948 Using Dermalogica, L’Oréal, Jane Iredale and OPI products for a variety of face and body treatments, spa provides a professional, relaxed ambience for customers to sample products before purchase.

Open 9am - 7pm.

Master Kang Health Care Centre 456 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 721 765 Health centre next to Man Han Lou Restaurant offers foot massage in public or private rooms, with both Chinese and oil massage. A grand piano is played in the evenings.

Open 10am - 12pm.

Passion Spa & Salon 29 Street 302 Tel: 081 998 227 / 089 998 227 Dedicated to helping you celebrate a happier, healthier lifestyle. Your Day in a healthy, beautiful way.

Open daily 9am – 10pm.

Raffles Amrita Spa Tel: 023 981 888 Raffles Amrita Spa offers relaxation and rejuvenation through a wide selection of services and facilities including treatment rooms, outdoor lap and fun pool, Jacuzzi, fitness centre, sauna and steam room.

Open daily 6am - 10pm.

The Spa at NagaWorld Hun Sen Park Tel: 023 228 822 This luxurious spa promises to bring the ancient Cambodian spa therapy to the world, and claims to be the only all-suite unisex spa in Cambodia. Therapy rooms with sauna, steam and flower bath are inviting, and the spa uses Tomichik

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Villa Spa 456 Monivong Blvd., (cnr. Street 466) Tel: 023 721 765 012 357 561 www.asiagarden.com.kh Aromatherapy massage in private boutique VIP rooms (villa and bungalow style) from professional Chinese and Khmer therapists from Master Kang; women customers only.

Sports General

Ball Hockey Played every Thursday night at City Villa, corner of Streets 360 and 71 at 7pm.

To play, contact Mike: michaelwarford@ ispp.edu.kh Beeline Arena Sangkat Chroychangva, Phnom Penh Tel: 067 716 565 www.banzaicambodia.com Located on the Chroy Changvar peninsula, facing the city of Phnom Penh, the Beeline Arena is the first multipurpose sports arena in Cambodia with international standard, including Multisurface state of the art FIFA regulation pitch, 2,000 person capacity, VIP lounge and restaurant. Rental for futsal, basketball, volleyball, events and more.

Open daily 8am until late.

Cambodian Federation of Rugby cambodianfederationofrugby.com Proper 15-a-side rugby league with four senior teams as well as kid’s touch and women’s rugby teams. Contact Larry: khmer_rugby@yahoo.co.uk for more details.

Cambodia Golf & Country Club Route 4, Kompong Speur Tel: 023 363 666 International standard, 18-hole golf course. Open 6am until dark.

Football: The Bayon Wanderers www.bayonwanderers.com Mixed Khmer and western team. Training at the City Villa court on Wednesday and Friday, 8pm to 10pm, Old Stadium on Tuesday from 4.30 pm. Contact Billy Barnaart on 012 803 040 (available from 11am to 10pm). Sunday play at 2pm.

Hash House Harriers 8, Street 360 (cnr. Street 71) Meets at the railway station every Sunday at 2:15pm. An ideal way to see the countryside walking or running.

Contact 012 832 509.

Phnom Penh Ultimate Frisbee A fast paced fun game that is open to everyone, regardless of skill set or gender, Phnom Penh Ultimate has weekly games at ISPP and Northbridge.

Contact CraigDGerard@gmail.com for details on times and locations.

Touch Rugby Mixed touch rugby is played most Saturday afternoons at 3-5pm at ISPP. Contact pptouchrugby@gmail.com.

sos

Diabetes Dr Claire Uebbing Diabetes is becoming more common throughout the world due to an ageing population and increasing rates of obesity.

According to the World Health Organisation’s 2012 World Health Statistics report, one in ten people have diabetes.

Diabetes is caused by a disorder of the metabolism where the body is unable to utilise sugars. Normally, the pancreas produces the hormone insulin, which takes sugars that you eat and delivers them to the brain, muscles, and liver to use or store. In diabetes, there is either not enough insulin produced or it is ineffective.

There are two main types of diabetes. In type I diabetes the pancreas no longer produces enough insulin. This type usually occurs in childhood and accounts for 10 percent of all cases. In type II diabetes, the body develops resistance to the effects of insulin and does not produce enough extra insulin to overcome the resistance problem. This dysfunction develops slowly over years from consuming a high-calorie diet, too little exercise and obesity. It makes up the other 90 percent of cases.

In both types, untreated diabetes results in elevated sugar levels in the bloodstream.

The excess sugars damage the inside of small blood vessels, leading to inflammation and blockages. Poor blood flow and nerve damage lead to many problems including blindness, hand and foot numbness,

non-healing ulcers and kidney failure. The brain and heart blood vessels are also slowly damaged and contribute to causing heart attacks and strokes.

Diabetes is often a silent disease that can exist for many years without a person knowing it. High blood sugars may cause transient blurry vision and confusion, but more commonly fatigue and mild dehydration.

The classic syndrome of weight loss, excessive thirst and appetite and urinary frequency, only occurs in a minority of cases.

So what can you do? The good news is that, in the majority of cases, diabetes can be completely prevented. The key is to maintain a healthy weight through a well-balanced diet and regular exercise. Try eating smaller, more frequent meals.

Avoid fats and sugars. Watch your portion sizes and stop eating when you feel full.

Exercise everyday and visit the doctor once a year to have your weight and blood pressure checked. If you are over 40 or have a family history of type II diabetes, you should get a blood sugar level check.

If your blood sugars are high, there is a good chance of avoiding taking daily medication if you modify your diet and lose weight. If you do have to take medicine, it may be as pills, insulin injections, or both. Do not lose heart if this happens — you can still prevent serious consequences of diabetes if you keep your sugars under control.

Dr Claire Uebbing is a certified emergency medicine and global health practitioner. She holds a Masters Degree in Public Health.

LISTINGS

family Cafés & Restaurants

Café Fresco II Cnr. Streets 51 & 306 Tel: 023 224 891 Let your children play with puzzles and Lego on beanbags, watch films like the Lion King looked after by a trained staff as you enjoy your cappuccino.

Open daily 6am - 9pm.

Café Living Room 9 Street 306 Tel: 023 726 139 The playroom is stocked with books, games, a wooden dollhouse and even a rattan crib, while the kid’s menu has bite-sized portions. Contact Living Room to see what classes they are currently running.

Open daily 7am - 8.30pm.

Java Café 56 Sihanouk Blvd.

Tel: 023 987 420 Kid’s menu includes chicken nuggets and pizza bagels. Colouring pages and crayons to keep the kids amused. High-chair is available on request and baby-changing facilities are in the toilet. Open daily 7am 10pm Le Jardin 16 Street 360 Tel: 011 723 399 This garden retreat has a great kids’ area with playhouse and sandbox, specialises in birthday parties, with cake, decorations, toys and drawing materials provided for children of all ages.

Open Tue – Sun, 8am - 8pm.

Romdeng (see Restaurants, Cambodian)

Entertainment

Cambodian Country Club Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla, Tel: 012 231 755

Sports centre and a peaceful heaven providing tennis, swimming, badminton, fitness centre and horse riding in an amazing landscape 15 minutes away from the city.

Dedicated to leisure, rest and entertainment, CCC is suitable for children.

Open daily 6.30am until late.

Dragon Water Park Diamond Island (Koh Pich) Tel: 023 45 54 023/ 023 224 776 Clean-Safe-Exciting! Wonderful Water World just in the biggest amusement land, fit for all ages.

Have fun with Crystal Blue Clear Water, immense pools, giant slides up to 15m high and water toys.

Open daily 10:30am until late.

Monkey Business Paragon Department Store, Second Floor, Tel: 023 319 319 Kids can rejoice now that this indoor children’s play centre offers clean, safe facilities. Available for private parties.

Open daily 9am - 8pm.

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Because your health matters to us, nothing can replace AG Cambodia for your insurance needs.

Phnom Tamao Wildlife Park Phnom Tamao Cambodia’s best wildlife centre.

All the animals are either rescued from traders or bred at the centre.

Many of the animals are critically endangered.

Open 8am - 4pm.

International Schools

Footprints School 220 Street 430, Tumnub Teuk, Phnom Penh Tel: 077 222084 www.footprintsschool.edu.kh Established in 2007 Footprints School offers nursery (age 2) through grade 6 and has 4 campuses. The curriculum is designed for the dynamic needs and interests of our students and the staff are hired for their experience and love for children.

Giving Tree International Elementary School of Phnom Penh 40 Street 334 Tel: 017 997 112 www.thegivingtreeschool.com Established to provide an exceptional, affordable, and unique learning environment, based on small class sizes and a international curriculum incorporating compassion, communication, conservation, contemplation, creativity, conscience and global citizenship.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 79

ICan International School 85 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 222 418 www.ican.edu.kh Offers affordable, high quality education to 330 children, aged 2-12, from 31 different nationalities, using British curriculum. iCAN is a contemporary, purpose-built school and is the first in Cambodia with interactive whiteboards in every classroom.

International School of Phnom Penh 146 Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 213 103 www.ispp.edu.kh Founded in 1989, this non-profit, non-sectarian international school currently has over 600 students from Pre-K to Grade 12. The largest international school with over 70 professional teachers, and the only fully authorized IB Programme in the country.

Lycée Français René Descartes Street 96, Tel: 023 722 044 French school offering primary and secondary level education, extra-curricula activities include basketball, football, rugby.

Northbridge School 1km off National Road 4 on the way to the airport, Tel: 023 886 000 www.nisc.edu.kh Founded in 1997, NISC is an authorized IB World School with a growing enrollment of 410 students age 3 to Grade 12.

Spectacular purpose built campus unlike any in Cambodia.

Zaman International School 2843 Street 3 Tel: 023 214 040 www.zamanisc.org International school that teaches a full curriculum to children from four to 18. Facilities include basketball and volleyball courts, a football field and a science lab.

Pre-Schools

DK Schoolhouse No. 7 St. 466 078 777 466 095 777 466 desk@dkschoolhouse.com www.dkschoolhouse.com DK Schoolhouse is an early learning preschool/kindergarten for children aged 2-6. Established by long time residents of the Kingdom, DK Schoolhouse aims to minimize the gap between quality and cost in education while providing a safe and stimulating learning environment.

Our staff are native English speaking, qualified early childhood educators.

Open Mon-Fri 8:00-4:00pm Sat 9:00-11:00am (by appointment only) Gecko & Garden Pre-school 3 Street 21 Tel: 092 575 431 www.geckogarden-preschool.org This is a not-for-profit pre-school, established over ten years ago, which emphasises learning through creative play in a supportive environment forchildren aged 18

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months to 5 years.

Open daily 7:30am - 12pm.

An after school program offering a range of fun activities is available 2:30pm - 5pm daily.

The Giving Tree Nursery and Preschool House #17, Street 71, Bkk Tel: 017 997 112 www.thegivingtreeschool.com Preschool committed to providing a nurturing and supportive environment that supports and extends the child’s overall development. With an international, experienced team of teachers the school offers a play-based programme that is fun and motivating.

Sambo’s Tots www.sambostots.com Playhouse and playschool provides fun edutainment experience for babies and toddlers from 3 months to 5 years where imagination comes to life.

Tchou Tchou 13 Street 21 Tel: 023 362 899, www.tchou-tchou.com Kindergarten and pre-school for 18 months to 5-year-olds, open from 7.30am to 12pm (Mon to Fri). French is the main language, although English and Khmer is also practised.

Shops

Monument Toys 111 Norodom Bvd. Tel: 023 217 617 To the rear of Monument Books is a well-stocked toy section.

It features an excellent range of well-known board games and toys including Barbie dolls, Transformers, Magic 8 balls and more. It has to be the best place in the city for brand name toys and games.

Open daily 7.30am - 8pm.

Shade 7 Outdoor Living Co Ltd Showroon; Borey Chamkarmon Tel: 077 962 467 david@shade7.com www.shade7. com www.springfreetrampoline. com Supplier of Shade7 premium aluminium umbrellas and exclusive distributor of original Springfree range. World class products now available in Cambodia! Stock in country for immediate supply.

Toys & Me 159A Mao Tse Toung Blvd.

Tel: 023 212 081 / 016 808 676 www.toysnme.net Established in 2007, Toys & Me is a leading toys shop in Cambodia.

A one-stop shop you can trust when it comes to educational needs for your children.

Willi Shop 769 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 211 652 All products are imported from France, including bébé brand baby products, the range includes prams, baby care, cots and toys.

Open 8am - 8pm.

kids corner

Social Skills Gemma Jones Have you ever been on a bus or a shopping trip and noticed a parent completely ignoring their child? Isn’t it infuriating? It is crucial that all parents and carers interact and communicate with their children. What makes it worse is that these activities provide the perfect opportunity to do so.

Even if it is imperceptible at times, children pick up on everything you say and do.

They are most likely to mimic and learn from their main carer’s actions and speech, which is why it is very important to give your child plenty of positive attention — speak clearly to them and explain things.

It is never too early to start doing this. Even if it seems odd to be constantly talking to a three-month-old baby, do not refrain from doing so. Children begin to take things in before they can communicate verbally.

Babies, in particular, learn through their senses. It is important to keep all five stimulated. Sing and talk to them as much as possible and remember that, even though babies may not respond every time, they are still soaking everything up.

Once they are a little older, it is a good idea to teach them emotions. For example, show how laughing means happy and crying means sad. Seeing your child comfort others when they are upset is an amazing

sight and should be motivation enough to work on this side of their personality.

It is important to take children to places where they have the opportunity to socialise. Playgroups, a playground, or a friend’s house are perfectly good settings.

They will help your child get used to being in the company of others.

You may find that some of the children will bicker or complain that another child has taken his or her toy, or some other heinous crime, but this is normal behaviour and gives you the opportunity to teach right from wrong and how to share.

Being a good role model for your children is of the utmost importance in helping develop social skills. Always make a show of using your own manners by saying “please” and “thank you” in a pronounced way. After all, this is how you teach your children to be polite.

Parents or carers who always communicate with their children are helping their development a great deal. Parents often know what their offspring want without them saying anything, but encourage your children to ask for things before they receive them. Small, almost imperceptible, steps such as this encourage children to communicate, help develop their language skills and build their social repertoire.

Gemma Jones has been working in childcare for over 10 years.

She holds an NNEB diploma in nursery nursing and is currently a principal at Cambridge Child Development Centre.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 81

services

money matters

Retirement Plan Trevor Keidan Saving for retirement is something that we know we should do, but it can easily get put off because of ‘more pressing’ financial issues.

This can be anything from school fees, a mortgage, loans or simply household bills. But the reality is that the sooner you start to save for retirement, the cheaper it is, and the time you can live on the money generated is longer.

The last point is important.

As life expectancy rises we will need to pay our way for longer. According to the latest longevity data from the Office for National Statistics in the United Kingdom, someone retiring today at 65 can expect to see their 82nd birthday.

With two in five men and nearly half of women aged 35 today expected to live to 100, forward planning is even more essential.

Expats are in an interesting position. While they may have access to some form of pension, it will not necessarily be the same as in their home countries. The tax relief available for personal pensions in the UK or the 401k in the US may not apply, but expats may already have a tax-free income or pay significantly less tax than they did before.

The best way for expats

to save for their retirement may take a variety of guises, from insurance bonds and investment funds to expat pensions. The option that is right for you may not be obvious, so you should get some advice from the experts.

Choosing how you save is just one aspect; you also have to make sure your retirement fund continues to perform in order to reach retirement goals in good financial shape.

You must consider how much risk you are prepared to take and how close you are to retirement. The closer you are, the less risk you should take with investments.

It may be that your funds are not tied up in the same way as a traditional pension, so you may have to use a lot of willpower to leave them untouched until they are needed. In addition, you need to increase savings yearon-year to meet your aims, so each time you get a pay rise think about increasing pension savings by the same proportion.

You can find no end of online calculators to tell you what you should save, but only a good advisor can consider your entire financial position and where to invest.

That is definitely worth a conversation.

Trevor Keidan is Managing Director of Infinity Financial Solutions. This company provides impartial, tailor-made, personal financial advice to clients in Cambodia and Southeast Asia.

Should you wish to contact Trevor, please send an email to info@infinitysolutions.com or visit infinitysolutions.com.

82 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

business & services Architecture, Interior Design & Construction

Beyond Interiors 14e Street 306 Tel: 023 987 840/ 012 930 332 ww.beyondinteriors.biz Managed by Australian designer Bronwyn Blue, this interior design showroom can provide the ultimate design solution to your interior dilemma. All products from Thailand, Vietnam, Indonesia and Cambodia have been treated to withstand any climate.

Open 9am - 7pm Bill Grant Landscape Design Tel: 012 932 225/ 012 738 134 The city’s most talented landscape designer.

Green Goal Ltd 10 Street 296 Tel: 023 223 861 Consultancy offers sustainable and creative architectural and construction services to clients taking into account environmental considerations.

Hemisphere Design & Interiors Tel: 012 602 955 william@norbert-munns.com Western managed renovation company specialising in swimming pools and Jacuzzi construction in fibreglass and concrete.

I Ching Decor 85 Sothearos Blvd.

Tel: 023 220 873. 012 558 000 092 660 746, Boutique interior design shop offering advice on architectural work and interior design, as well as providing custom-made furniture, home accessories, kitchenware, lighting and bedroom suites.

Open 9am - 6pm, closed Sun. The Room Design Studio 9AB Street 288, Tel: 023 992 620 Interior design and architectural company that has 12 years’ experience of designing flats, villas, offices, shops, homes and offices in Asia.

Business Groups

Australian Business Association of Cambodia (ABAC) 20 Street 114 (cnr. Street 67) For information, contact Derek Mayes 012 385 157 abacambodia@gmail.com British Business Association of Cambodia (BBAC) 35 Sihanouk Blvd.

Tel: 012 803 891 Contact enquiries@bbacambodia. com.

Chambre de Commerce FrancoCambodgienne

Office 2nd floor, 33 Street 178 Tel: 023 221 453 www.ccfcambodge.org Canadian Cooperation Office Cambodia Commissioner Service Canadian Embassy 50 Street 334 Tel: 023 215 496 www.cco-cambodia.org Malaysian Business Council of Cambodia Unit G21, Ground Floor, Parkway Square 113, Mao Tse Tung Blvd. mbcc.secretariat@gmail.com Car Rental ACC Car Rental Services 43 Street 160z Toul Kork Tel. 012 456 003/ 015 456 003.

Professional, prompt and organised rental service that provides vehicles for rent with or without a driver.

ACC also rents a range of buses that seat from 12 to 45 people. All vehicles can be delivered to your door.

Asia Vehicle Rental 27 Street 134 Tel: 078 666 557 www.avrcambodia.com With the motto “leave your driving to us”, the rental service offers sedans, pick-ups, SUVs and minibuses in 2WD or 4WD for self-drive or with driver. Insurance offered.

Larryta Trading & Travel Co. Ltd. 9 Street 310 Tel: 023 994 748 www.larrytacarrental.com.kh Vehicle rental for all types of cars,

vans and mini-buses with flexible go-anywhere packages to all areas of Cambodia and neighbouring countries by the day, week or month.

Royal Limousine Services Attwood Business Center, Russian Confederation Blvd.

Tel : 023 218 808 www.royallimousine.com.kh Fleet of late model Mercedes that provides transport for hotels, embassies and luxury tour operators as well as foreign delegates.

Commercial Banks

Acleda Bank 61 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 998 777 www.acledabank.com.kh Specialises in micro, small and medium loans to people throughout the country.

ANZ Royal Bank Main Branch, 20 Street 114 www.anzroyal.com Cambodia’s major commercial bank has brought international standards of banking to Cambodia, with a large number of ATM machines around Phnom Penh. Can arrange money transfers.

CIMB Bank PLC 20AB Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 988 388 www.cimbbank.com.kh Full range of commercial and consumer banking products and services for both Cambodian and foreign businesses and individuals.

The first Japanese bank in Cambodia.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 83

services

LISTINGS

services

Maruhan Japan Bank 83 Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 010 First Japanese bank in Phnom Penh.

systems for bars and restaurants, website designing and telecoms consulting. Has showroom at 385 Street 215.

Bikes & Mechanics

Netpro Cambodia 11 Street 422 Tel: 023 215 141 www.netpro-cambodia.com, IT supports company that delivers high quality and reliable services to home and small to medium size organisations in Cambodia.

Dara Motorbike 43 Street 136 Tel: 012 335 499 Off-road specialist offers repairs, parts and accessories. Tours can be arranged by appointment.

Emerald Garage 11 Street 456 Mechanics specialising in maintenance and repair of vehicles, including oil changing and body painting.

The Bike Shop 31 Street 302 Tel: 012 851 776 Repairs trusty steeds as well as renting them out in the first place.

Also provides dirt bike tours.

Western Service Centre 24 Street 420 Tel: 012 477 831 www.wmg-cambodia.com admin@wmg-cambodia.com A garage with Western and Khmer staff that emphasises communication and trained, attentive skills. Motto is “We don’t know all, we find out all, then we fix.”

IT & Software

Cresittel Co., Ltd. Office 705, KT Tower, 23 Street 112 Tel 098 518 888 Company that provides software solutions and systems, point of sales

Ocean Technology T-20 St Topaz, Sovanna Shopping Centre Tel: 023 211 700 / 010 624 001 www.ocean-tech.biz Technology company that offers GPS navigation systems, an online map directory and vehicle tracking system.

Internet Provider

EMAXX 99 Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 818 EMAXX offers fast internet access via WiMAX , Optical Fiber , and Satellite.

Insurance

AG Cambodia Hotel Cambodiana, 313 Sovanna Sisowath Quay Tel: 017 360 333 info@agcambodia.com Professional insurance agent offering health, home, car, factory, employee and hotel insurance packages.

Infinity Insurance 126 Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 999 888 Prfessional insurance company

SavinG for educaTion

offers motor, property, home, marine cargo, personal accident, healthcare, construction and engineering insurance. Group policies can be customized.

Legal

BNG Legal 64 Street 111 Tel: 023 212 671 023 212 740 www.bnglegal.com BNG Legal is a leading Cambodian law firm providing comprehensive legal services to foreign and local clients. We differentiate ourselves by coupling a deep understanding of the local business environment with international professionalism and integrity.

DFDL Legal and Tax Advisors 33 Street 294 Tel: 023 210 400 www.dfdlmekong.com Law firm providing tailored international standard legal and tax solutions with extensive local and cross-border experience with offices in neighbouring countries.

Gordon and Associates Asia (Cambodia) 21 Street 214 Tel: 023 218 257 US lawyer works with local Cambodian lawyers to provide international quality advice.

Specialises in foreign investment, joint ventures and advising entrepreneurs with an in depth knowledge of the telecoms, agriculture, banking and hospitality sectors.

Sciaroni & Associates 24 Street 462 Tel: 023 210 225 Law firm with a good reputation. Just the ticket if you get into a spot of bother.

Media & Design

Anon Creative Energy Tel: 089 812 123 anoncambodia@gmail.com Internationally trained advertising talent at your service. Strong, strategic ideas. Available for freelance art and copy writing projects.

Asia Media Lab Tel: 012 818 917, www.asiamedialab.com Full service video production company specialises in the creation of dynamic visual content to help bring NGO stories to life for fundraising and advocacy.

Miscellaneous

Sunbird Angkor Co. Ltd. 78 Monireth Blvd.

Tel: 023 98 3333/ 023 99 1010 sunbirdangkor@yahoo.co.kr Worldwide Hotel Reservation, Car Rental Service, Worldwide Medical Service, Convention, Marketing.

Open Mon~Fri 8am ~5:30pm & Sat 8am~1pm Sunbird Global Co., Ltd. 78 St. Monireth Blvd.

Tel: 023 98 3333/023 99 1010 sunbirdglobal@yahoo.co.kr Insurance Service, Air Cargo,

The right medical insurance, at the right price.

Because Infinity is completely independent, we can select expatriate health insurance plans from any of the world’s best international medical insurers.

You benefit from our independent advice, product comparisons and ongoing support at no additional cost – the rates you pay are the same as going directly to the insurance companies. So we can help you to find the best plan for you, at the best price.

Labuan FSA License NO.BS200548 Company No. LL04446

Get a quote online, or give us a call.

Visit infinitysolutions.com Email info@infinitysolutions.com Call Thailand +66 2 261 1571 Cambodia +855 23 997 121 Malaysia +60 3 2164 658 Vietnam +84 8 6255 6914 Hong Kong +852 2855 6961 Shanghai +86 21 6247 5755 An associate of Infinity General Insurance

Infinity_ASIAlife_September 12 Ad_HP.indd 1

The possibilities are endless 8/21/12 4:07 PM

Post Office

Main Post Office Cnr. Streets 102 & 13 The place to go if you want to send something overseas or get a PO Box. Open 6.30am -9pm.

Photography

AsiaMotion Tel: 092 806 117 www.asiamotion.net Photographic agency established in November 2008 as a cooperation between local and international photographers.

Nathan Horton Photography Tel: 092 526 706 www.nathanhortonphotography. com Full service professional photographer. Hotels, bars, restaurants, spas and location work. Call for Travel Photography workshops and tours.

Printing

Sok Heng Printing House 1297B Street Luo 5, Stoeung Mean Chey Tel: 011 939 255/ 012 939 255 Modern print house providing a full range of printing services.

Graphic design available.

Real Estate and Property Services

240Condo 50B Street 240 Tel: 012 271 636 www.240phnompenh.com 240 ids the home of 42 luxury serviced apartments set in the most stylish area of Phnom Penh with spectacular river and city views. The condominium was designed by leading international architects gfab and represents the most contemporary luxury apartment development currently available in Cambodia.

Bizzy Beez 47B Street 466 Tel: 012 755 913 bizzybeezservices@gmail.com Premier handyman service does renovations, construction work, electrics, plumbing, painting and landscaping.

CB Richard Ellis (Cambodia) Co., Ltd. 9th Floor, Hyundai Phnom Penh Tower 445 Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 023 964 099 www.cbre.com.kh The world’s largest commercial real estate services company offering premier quality real estate, valutions, consultancy, investment and property services.

Property Care Services (PCS) 2A Road 7 Tel: 017 555 203 Solution for property support services, including waste management, security, pest control and cleaning. Only company to clean high-rise windows with abseilers.

Relocation, Shipping

Asian Tigers Transport International (Cambodia ) Ltd 86 Street 160 Toul Kork Tel. 023 880 951 One of Asia’s leading move management specialists has

1,500 staff as well as the largest fleet of trucks and the most warehouse space in the Far East.

services

Worldwide Express, Trading.

Open Mon~Fri 8am ~5:30pm & Sat 8am~1pm

Crown 115-116 Street 335 Tel: 023 881 004 www.crownrelo.com Global transportation and relocation company with over 150 offices in 50 countries, specialising in expat support and household shipment.

Open 8:30am - 5:30pm Mon - Fri, 8:30am - 12pm, Sat. Home Connect Cambodia 86 Street 160 Tel: 023 88 56 85 www.homeconnect.asia Home search company, dedicated to making the home search process easy and specializing in finding rental homes for the expatriate community. Best of all for our clients, our services are FREE JVK – NAGA 1157 National Road 2 Tel: 023 216 781 Asian-based relocation company with years of experience operating in most major Asian cities, offers record management and warehouse and distribution services.

Taxi Services

Choice Taxi Tel: 023 888 023 / 090 882 882 Metered taxi service with rates from US$1 for first 2km.

Giant Ibis Transport Phnom Penh 3 Street 106, next to Night Market.

Tel: 023 999 333 www.giantibis.com Siem Reap 64 Street Sivatha, Mondol 1, Svay Dankum.

Travel “Affordable Luxury” to Siem Reap and other destinations in brand new 2012 buses with comforablt reclining seats, spacious leg room, A/C, Wi-fi, complementary snacks and pickup service.

Global Meter Taxi Tel: 011 311 888 092 889 962 016 680 118 Modern metered taxi fleet with rates from less than US$1 for first two km.

Telecoms

Ezecom 7D Russian Blvd.

Tel: 023 888 181 www.ezecom.com.kh Internet service provider that promises boundless internet packages suited to everyone’s needs. Good packages for those looking for unlimited downloads.

Mobitel 33 Sihanouk Blvd.

Tel: 012 801 801 Largest ISP in the country. Major mobile phone company which issues the 012 SIM card.

Smart Mobile 464A Preah Monivong Blvd.

Tel: 010 201 000 www.smart.com.kh facebook.com/SmartMobileKH One of the most dynamic and fastest growing mobile telecom service providers in the country.

Issues the 010, 069, 070, 086, 093 and 098 prefixes.

We supply best on:

∙ All kind of offset printing ∙ All kind of inkjet printing ∙ All kind of plastic printing ∙ In-outdoor advs production ∙ Graphic design

No. 1297B, Street Luo 5, Stoeung Mean Chey, Phnom Penh, Kingdom of Cambodia.

HP: (855)-11/12 939 255 Email: sokheng.printing@gmail.com

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 85

LISTINGS

shopping Art

Happy Painting Gallery FCC, Sisowath Quay www.happypainting.net Open since 1995, popular air-con art shop sells the extremely colourful and positive works of iconic artist Stef. Accepts all major credit cards.

Open 8am - 10pm.

Beauty Products

Angkor Soap 16C Street 374 Tel: 023 223 720/ 015 935 789. www. angkorsoaps.com Specialising in handmade soaps and natural spa products. Open daily 8am - 5pm Raffles Amrita Spa Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 www.raffles.com/phnompenh spa. phnompenh@raffles.com Distinctive collection of Raffles Amrita spa private label and international spa products are available for purchase.

Open 6am - 10pm.

Books & CDS

Carnets d’Asie French Cultural Centre 218 Street 184 Tel: 012 799 959 French-language bookshop has sections on Cambodia and Asia as well as general fiction, with a good range of French magazines and newspapers.

Open 8am - 8pm D’s Books 12E Street 178 & 79 Street 240 Tel: 092 675 629 Second-hand book shop with over 20,000 copies and some originals, with a heavy emphasis on best sellers and travel books.

Open 9am - 9pm.

Le Phnom Shop Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 www.raffles.com/phnompenh, Small shop offering books and souvenirs including recipes from the hotel’s pastry chef. Open 7am - 9pm.

86 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

Monument Books 111 Norodom Blvd.

Tel: 023 217 617 Extensive range of new English-language books in town including recent releases and sections on Asia, Cambodia, travel, cuisine, design and management. Good children’s section as well as a wide choice of magazines and newspapers.

Open 7am - 8.30pm.

Crafts & Furniture

Art des Lignes 42B Mao Tse Toung Blvd.

Tel: 012 211 520 www.artdeslignes.com This new interior design showroom provides branded products of high-quality like luxury leather sofas and LED lighting, as well as furniture and metal artworks in contemporary style. Upstairs, the architecture and interior design office can offer complete solutions for projects, with a resolutely modern spirit and French Touch.

Open 8:30am - 7:00pm .closed Sun. Artisans D’Angkor 12AEo Street 13, Craft Centr Tel: 063 963 330 Silk Farm Tel: 063 380 375 Specialising in stone and wood carving, lacquering and silk paintings, all items are hand made by the students at the organisation’s training centre.

Open daily 9am - 9pm.

DeCosy 219 Street 19, Tel: 023 219 276 Stocking charming knick-knacks and furniture,is the place to find the things to make your house a home. Open daily from 9am to 7pm.

NatureWild 10Eo Street 420 Tel: 023 727 407 www.naturewildcambodia.com A sustainable lifestyle store featuring community products made from natural and wild materials from the forests of Cambodia, ideal for gifts.

Pavillon d’Asie 24, 26 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 012 497 217 Antique lovers dream, a large array of well-restored furniture and decorative objects. Wooden cabinets jostle for space with Buddha statues and old wooden boxes. Upstairs are pieces from the French colonial era. Open 10am - 7pm, closed Sun.

Fashion

Ambre 37 Street 178 Tel: 023 217 935 The high-end fashion designs created by Cambodian designer Romyda Keth are

popular all over the world, this beautiful colonial building makes the perfect setting for the city’s most glamorous design shop. Also has men’s fashion.

Open 10am - 6pm, closed Sun. A.N.D. 52c Street 240 Tel: 017 854 726 artisandesigners@gmail.com The designers at A.N.D. work with many local artisans, giving a fashion twist to traditional skills: look for generously-sized ikat wraps in pure cotton, innovative up-cycled bags, and covetable jewellery combining hand-carved hardwoods with silver and vintage porcelain.

Bambou Indochine 7 Street 178 Tel: 023 214 720, Facebook: bambouindochine High-quality T-shirts, Polo shirts and comfortable clothes in original designs.

A full-range of sizes for men, women and children.

Open daily 8am -10pm.

Khmer silk clothing for men, women and children, including designs by Romyda Keth, and exclusive jewellery that complement the limited edition outfits.

La Clef de Sol A design boutique offering home decor, women’s fashion, kids clothes, bags, accessories and continually updated design surprises. Next to K’nyay restaurant, in the alley across the park from java cafe.

Open 10am - 7pm, closed Sun. Lim Keo 9 Street 222 Tel: 012 941 643 Pret a porter by Lim Keo, son of Sylvain Lim, the master of Cambodian fashion.

Luna Boutique 8E1Street 278 Tel: 023 220 176 www.lunaboutiquephnompenh.com Original and stylish fashion designs for men and women, from work suits to evening dresses. The tailor-made creations, designed by modern Cambodian stylist Mengchou Kit, are fit for any occasion.

Beautiful Shoes Luna Boutique is located in the heart of 138 Street 143 Tel: 012 848 438 Phnom Penh, in front of Anise Hotel, while Family-run business measures your feet its sister shop - Luna Shoes - is just next and designs the shoe exactly as you wish. door and hosts a large selection of The shop also caters for men. Open from shoes, bags, and women’s accessories 7am to 6.30pm. to complement your style.

Open daily 8am - 9pm.

Bliss 29 Street 240 Tel: 023 215 754 Promesses and Kaprices A beautiful colonial building houses this 20 Street 282, exquisite shop with funky patterned cush- Tel: 023 993 527 ions, quilts and an excellent clothing line.

Lingerie shop stocked with exclusive The health spa at the back of the shop French and Thai undergarments. Chic, also sells Spana beauty products. Open new prêt-à-porter shop Kaprices is from 9am to 9pm (closed Mondays). located upstairs.

Open 9am - 7pm.

Couleurs D’Asie 33 Street 240 SALT Tel: 023 221 075/ 099 499 478 2 Street 294 Tel: 012 815 066 www.couleursdasie.net SentosaSilk’s younger sibling has just info@couleursdasie.net opened in the comfortable surroundEstablished in Cambodia for more than ings of BKK1. Its stylish wooden interior 15 years, Couleurs d´Asie has developed complements the products sold, ranging a full range of textile products for home from bags and shoes, clothes and decoration, clothing and fashion accesdresses to accessories. sories. Jewellery, essential oils, soaps and Open daily 9am - 7pm more are on offer. A custom service for existing products is also available.

SentosaSilk Uniform 33 Sothearos Blvd, cnr Street 178 Jasmine Boutique Tel: 012 962 911/ 023 222 974 73 Street 240, Tel: 023 223 103 sentosa@online.com.kh www.jasmineboutique.net Well known for its professional manageEstablished in 2001 by Kellianne Karatau ment ability, SentosaSilk gives clients efand Cassandra McMillan, this boutique ficient and reliable service through quality creates its own collection of designs twice systems and procedures that consistently a year using hand-woven Cambodian silk. enhance product quality and reliability.

Open 8am - 6pm.

Sobbhana Boutique 23-24 Street 144/49 Khmer Attitude Tel: 023 219 455/ 023 219 452 Raffles Hotel Le Royal www.sobbhana.org, Tel: 023 981 888 A not for profit organisation founded by Fashion boutique that offers the finest

Princess Norodom Marie, offering a range of colourful, handwoven silk products.

Profits fund training, medical care and education of weavers.

Smateria 8Eo Street 5 Tel: 023 211 701 7 Street 178 Tel: 023 214 720 www.smateria.com Boutique specialising in accessories made from recycled materials including a range of bags and wallets made from old fruit juice cartons, plastic bags and mosquito nets.

Subtyl 43 Street 240 Tel 023 992 710 www.subtyl.com Up-market boutique selling Cambodian handmade women’s clothes, scarves, shoes, bags and other accessories in contemporary and interesting designs, the Subtyl collection combines class with colour. ChilliKids children’s clothing is also stocked at the shop.

Open 9am - 7pm.

Food & Wine

AusKhmer – The Pantry Shop 125 Street 105 9 Street 306, (The Livingroom) Tel: 023 993 859 /023 214 478 This small deli features a variety of well priced wines, Australian beers, and French delicacies, cheeses, antipasti, and cold cuts.

Open 10am - 8pm.

Camory – Premium Cookie Boutique 167 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 224 937 Makes cookies using produce from the provinces such as cashews from Kampong Cham and Mondulkiri honey. A portion of the profits fund education for a local orphanage.

Open 9am - 8.30pm.

Celliers d’Asie 62B & 98 Street 432 Tel: 023 986 350 Wine supplier with the largest quantity of retail stock in town, has been providing wine to most of the top hotels and restaurants for over ten years.

Open 8am -12pm , 2pm - 6pm, closed Sun.

Open7:30 - 6:30, closed Sun. Kurata Pepper Cnr. Streets 63 & 322, Tel: 023 726 480 Selling organic Koh Kong pepper and associated products, Kurata is one of the more unusual shops in town.

Open daily 8am - 7pm.

Open Wine 219 Street 19 Tel: 023 223 527 Aircon wine shop and tasting gallery sells wines, severac, calvados and meat.

Open 7pm - 11pm.

Red Apron 15-17 Eo Street 240 Tel: 023 990 951 Home of wine enthusiasts in Phnom Penh is both a wine boutique and tasting gallery.

With around 300 wines, the boutique has more range than the supermarkets.

Open 9am - 9pm.

Supercheap Cambodia 87 Street 360 Tel: 023 631 3668 www.supercheap.com.kh Budget shop claims to offer the biggest variety of wines and spirits in Cambodia as well as the cheapest prices.

Open 8am - 10pm.

The Deli 13 Street 178, Tel: 012 851 234 Café and bakery with take away breads, sandwiches and pastries. Now has a second outlet on Street 51. Open 6.30am - 6.30pm, delivery service (within 30 minutes) 7am t-11pm.

Silks & Accessories

Friends ‘n’ Stuff 215 Street 13 Tel: 012 955 722 Colourful shop with unique products designed by Mith Samlahn/Friends students and parents of former street kids. Range includes cclothes, necklaces, purses and second hand goods. Has a nail bar run by students from the beauty class.

Open 11am - 9pm.

Mekong Quilts 49 Street 240 Tel: 023 219 607 www.mekong-quilts.org Outlet for NGO Mekong Plus, stocks a large range of hand-crafted bed covers, home accessories, gifts and decorations.

Benefits Mekong Plus, which promotes health initiatives in Svay Rieng Province.

Open 9am - 7pm.

Comme a la Maison 13 Street 57 Tel: 012 951 869 Decidedly sophisticated French restaurant has a small delicatessen and bakery at the back of the restaurant ideal for that morn- Sentosa Silk ing baguette or croissant with your coffee. 33 Sothearos Blvd, cnr Street 178 Tel: 023 222 974 Open from 6am - 10.30pm. www.sentosasilk.com Using a colourful range of Asian silks, Dan Meats Sentosa creates men’s and women’s 51A Street 214 Tel: 012 906 072 clothing, accessories and soft furnishings.

Phnom Penh’s man of meat, Lanzi, supSentosa employs disadvantaged people. plies his strictly non-vegetarian products Open daily 8am - 7pm. to many restaurants around town.

#8E0, St. 57, Phnom Penh #7, St. 178, Phnom Penh Phnom Penh Int. Airport The Alley West, Siem Reap e: jennifer@smateria.com m: 012 64 70 61 www.smateria.com

BAGS & ACCESSORIES

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 87

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Oktoberfest @ Koh Pich

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Skate Park Opening @ Skateistan

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soundfix album review

by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

TAKEN BY TREES

MIGUEL

TOY

BAT FOR LASHES

OTHER WORLDS

KALEIDOSCOPE DREAM

TOY

THE HAUNTED MAN

Ever since Sweden’s Victoria Bergsman sang on Peter, Bjorn and John’s 2006 hit ‘Young Folks’, she’s been one to keep an eye on. The former frontwoman of The Concretes has spent the past few years focusing on her solo career. Performing as Taken by Trees, Other Worlds is Bergsman’s third solo album.

The cover shows her shadowy silhouette holding a conch shell to her ear and facing an ocean. It’s an image that perfectly forecasts the album’s sound. Gentle waves of breezy singing, jaunty seaside rhythms and gentle production are as pleasant as a sunny day on the coast. And that’s just where Bergsman recorded, with studio space in the Hawaiian Islands.

Not since the mid-1990s has R&B been so in vogue. Where critics’ darlings Frank Ocean and The Wknd have broken down R&B elements and rebuilt the genre with a contemporary, electronic approach, Miguel goes for more traditional smooth jams. The retrospective outlook is refreshing. His crooning style recalls that of Usher — suave, sensual and with a killer falsetto — embellished with some lusty synthesiser and snares. Miguel’s second album looks to be the breakout that his 2010 debut didn’t quite become. The mix of velveteen vocals and electric guitar riffs on ‘Arch & Point’ make it the catchiest number, whereas ‘How Many Drinks?’ is old school R&B at its finest.

With a name like Joe Lean and The Jing Jang Jong, the band seemed doomed to fail.

And it did. But like a phoenix rising, the former group’s three members recouped, added two musicians and became Toy. The eponymous album serves up a mix of 1970s Krautrock and psychedelia, which sounds like a recipe for over-indulgence, but is somehow pulled off with flair.

‘My Heart Skips A Beat’ reveals the band at its most tender, sung

by Tom Dougall’s boyish voice over cinematic instrumentals.

The track is followed by another knockout, ‘Strange’, with a wink and a nod to the shoe-gazing genre. It seems a rebirth can work wonders.

It’s hard to believe that this is the artist who asked ‘What’s a Girl to Do’ on her first album.

Five years later, Bat For Lashes — otherwise known as Natasha Khan — sounds like she knows exactly what she is doing.

Khan’s third album is her most polished yet. This doesn’t mean the singer-songwriter’s taken a hit on creativity, merely that she’s had time to mature and produce something cohesive.

Khan draws comparison to Kate Bush at her calmest, given the delicate voice and a penchant for eccentric lyrics and tone. With this latest album, Khan may start commanding the critical attention and popular appeal she’s only flirted with in the past.

92 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

topten

endorsed

Official 97.5 Love FM Phnom Penh Top Ten 1 We Are Never Ever Getting Back Together 2 As Long As You Love Me 3 More Than This 4 Good Time 5 One More Night 6 Whistle 7 Turn Up The Love 8 Oh Love 9 Heart Skips A Beat 10 Pound The Alarm

Taylor Swift Justin Bieber One Direction Owl City & Carly Rae Jepson Maroon 5 Flo Rida Far East Movement Green Day Olly Murs Nicki Minaj

Capsule Coffee Martin Ho

UK Top Ten 1 Don’t You Worry Child 2 Skyfall 3 Gangnam Style 4 Diamonds 5 Anything Could Happen 6 Live While We’re Young 7 Trouble 8 Turn Around 9 I Cry 10 Hall of Fame

Swedish House Mafia Adele PSY Rihanna Ellie Goulding One Direction Leona Lewis Conor Maynard Flo Rida The Script

US Top Ten 1 One More Night 2 Gangnam Style 3 I Knew You Were Trouble 4 Some Nights 5 We Are Never Ever Getting Back Together 6 As Long As You Love Me 7 Too Close 8 Die Young 9 Blow Me (One Last Kiss) 10 Good Time

Maroon 5 PSY Taylor Swift fun Taylor Swift Justin Bieber Alex Clare Ke$ha Pink Owl City & Carly Rae Jepson

There has been an upsurge in popularity for capsule coffee machines in Europe and the trend has made its way to Asia.

These machines use prepackaged coffee that comes in small, sealed cups. Instead of fumbling around with loose coffee, you simply add a little package into the machine, press a button, and wait for espresso to drip out of the spout.

Coffee capsules contain hermetically-sealed ground coffee and, despite their size, deliver a punchy flavour. The machines pierce the capsules and force hot water through the hole to make espresso.

They contain just enough coffee for one shot.

Not only are these machines easy to use, but they’re also clean, extremely convenient, and there are plenty of options priced well below $300. However, like printer toner, the manufacturers make their money on the coffee rather than the machines themselves, as the capsules’ shapes and sizes are specific to the machines they were designed for and are often not interchangeable.

My experience buying a machine in Paris was quite interesting. The shop I visited was glamorous, akin to a boutique on 5th Avenue. The staff members were dressed in nice suits and spoke with their noses upturned.

This shop was replete with a spacious lounge for customers to take their time sampling more than 15 different coffees and hot chocolates, which were all produced from capsules.

Once customers decide on the flavours they want to take home, they are expected to line up for at least 15 to 30 minutes if they haven’t ordered online. The stores can be packed with hundreds of customers. I don’t mean to make it sound off-putting, but rather enticing. There is so much ceremony and elegance attached to such a product. I loved the quality of the coffee enough to buy 50 boxes of capsules, and I continue to harass my friends to bring me back more from countries where they sell my brand of choice. Paris prices ran $5 for a box of 10 capsules to $130 for a box of 250.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 93

bookshelf Kevin Powers The Yellow Birds Little, Brown & Company A Catch-22 for this generation, The Yellow Birds provides a literary window into the frontline of the Iraq War. Drawing from his own experiences as a machine-gunner in Iraq, Kevin Powers — a first-time novelist with an academic background in poetry — portrays the everyday struggles and ironies of war. The plotline follows 21-yearold Private John Bartle from 2003 to 2009, through the United States, Germany and Iraq. A nonlinear format leaves readers to put together the pieces of a puzzle based on Bartle’s hazy memories of the war and the trauma he experiences both during deployment and after his return.

Orhan Pamuk Silent House Alfred A Knopf Not to be confused with a thriller film of the same title, Silent House is Orhan Pamuk’s latest work to be translated into English. First published in Turkish in 1983, the novel tells the story of a family gathering on the coast near Istanbul.

As the impending military coup of 1980 looms, the family — an ageing mother, her three grandchildren and her husband’s son by a mistress — struggles to reconcile their own differences and confront the changing society around them. The winner of the 2006 Nobel Prize for Literature, Pamuk delivers the story with a compelling writing style.

94 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

Lois Lowry Son Houghton Mifflins Lois Lowry published The Giver nearly 20 years ago.

Written for young adults, the powerful novel features characters who come of age within a dystopian community. With its mature, thought-provoking themes, The Giver has become required reading in many schools.

Written with the same sparse, stirring style, Son revisits the strange community and features a 14-year-old girl as its protagonist. Claire serves as a vessel, which the reader comes to learn is responsible for birthing. Although the community forbids parents from having any connection with their children — who are raised communally — Claire becomes determined to know her child.

Hunter Davies The John Lennon Letters Weidenfield and Nicolson John Lennon imagined a world that was better than the one we have. Beyond his musical abilities, it was Lennon’s creative spirit that made him one of the most significant artists of the last century. Editor Hunter Davies — who wrote an authorised Beatles biography more than 40 years ago — presents a collection of Lennon’s hand-drawn postcards, love letters and rambles. This correspondence presents a vision of the artist as a man, while also revealing how he incorporated art into his everyday life.

As the lyricist behind ‘Strawberry Fields’ and ‘Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds’, Lennon’s writing is equally composed with clever wordplay and poetic sensibilities.

boxoffice

SKYFALL

LIFE OF PI

BREAKING DAWN PART 2

WRECK-IT RALPH

Bond is back. In Skyfall, Daniel Craig reprises his role as Agent 007 for the third time. After a mishap in Istanbul, the identities of undercover MI6 agents around the world are exposed.

When agency head M (Judi Dench) comes under fire for her handling of the secret service, Bond sets out to take on villain Raoul Silva (Javier Bardem).

Tracking Silva from London to China — where he meets Sévérine, played by FrenchCambodian beauty Bérénice Marlohe — Bond questions whether he can trust M.

In what looks to be this year’s most visually stunning motion picture, Ang Lee directs a 3D adaptation of Life of Pi. The much-anticipated film is based on Yann Martel’s 2002 Man Booker Prize-winning novel. Pi (Suraj Sharma) is a 16-year-old Indian boy, the son of a zookeeper. When the zoo’s animals are being moved overseas, Pi finds himself shipwrecked with a hyena, zebra, orangutan and a Bengal tiger. Part metaphorical fable, part spiritual tale, the story explores both human and animal natures.

In the final instalment of the Twilight series, Edward and Bella Cullen face their biggest challenge yet. With Bella now turned vampire, the eternal couple raises their young daughter, Renesmee. Seeking revenge on the Cullens, another vampire claims Renesmee is an immortal child whom the couple have bitten rather than birthed — an act deemed illegal by those who govern the world’s vampires. When the Volturi set out to punish the Cullens, Edward and Bella draw together other vampire clans to protect their daughter.

Fed up with being a video game bad guy, Wreck-It Ralph decides to change his fate. He swaps his game for one called Hero’s Duty to do good guy training, which creates mayhem for an entire arcade. Despite all the other game characters’ scepticism — including the villains in support group Bad-Anon — can Ralph do good and save everyone?

In this Disney 3D animated film, John C Reilly voices Ralph, with Jack McBrayer as Fix-It Felix, Sarah Silverman as Vanellope von Schweetz and Jane Lynch as Sergeant Calhoun.

COMING SOON NOVEMBER MOVIE RELEASES Platinum Cineplex See thecineplexs.com for screening schedule.

Arb Wear Helmet (Khmer) Still Showing My Girlfriend Arb (Khmer) Still Showing Paranormal Activity 4 Still Showing Silent Hill: Revelation (3D) Still Showing Skyfall Nov. 15 Raaz 3 (3D) Nov. 15 Wreck-It Ralph (3D) Nov. 22 Twilight Saga: Breaking Dawn Part 2 Nov. 22 Life of Pi Nov. 29

Legend Cinema See legend-cinemas.com for screening schedule.

Tai Chi Hero Nov. 8 Skyfall Nov. 15 Thunder Ghost Nov. 22 Wreck-It Ralph (3D) Nov. 22 Life of Pi (3D) Nov. 29

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 95

THE TWO OF US

Friends and business partners captain Kim Seng and William Norbert-Munns run river cruises in Phnom Penh on their two boats — The Butterfly and The Mayfly. Bridget Di Certo caught up with the pair to see where it all began. Photography by Conor Wall.

Kim

William I met Kim in maybe January 2009 and I was looking for something that we could do in order to go out for the weekends. We didn’t really intend to do a business, but then it became something quite nice. We decided to use it as a business, and we have done ever since.

The first boat that we did together was the Butterfly. It is designed for getting out on the river and experiencing another view of Phnom Penh. We run it for expats, tourists, anyone that wants to go out and do something a little bit nicer than [on] some of the other boats.

In 2011, we built another boat and we have been pushing the adventure. You can go out see the river, do whatever you want.

Kim is on the water every day. He greets the customers, takes them on tours and shows them life on the river. One other thing I should add about Kim is that he is very good at knowing what I expect, knowing what the boat should look like and knowing what is better than the other boats.

96 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

Safety is something that he pushes a lot. It can be quite hard to keep the boats maintained because of the weather, the rain and the storms, so it’s an intensive job to keep everything ship shape, as you would say.

Everybody on the river likes Kim because we don’t poach customers. We are always trying to change things on the boats. I’ve got carpenters that work with me out there doing different things with the wood work. We are trying to push morning cruises. Nobody really does that at all.

In terms of communication, Kim is a stand out. We’ve had a very good relationship ever since we met. Any problems, we can communicate. We SMS, we have drinks sometimes together. Kim has better English handwriting than me. He is very patient and very calm and keeps the stress down.

For the future, obviously our friendship will always be there, but expanding is something that really interests us.

I have worked a long time on the tourist boats in the river.

Previously [I worked] with my friends on some boats because I could speak English and communicate with the guests.

Then I used to impress the customers and get lots of tips.

With the tips I could save the money and then get a loan to get my own boat.

After I met William, we went in 50-50 in the Butterfly.

Since 2009, the Butterfly has been the best boat on the river.

Everybody knows the Butterfly, and now it is still the best.

Lots of people try to copy the Butterfly, which was the first boat like that. They copy it [in order] to have a long boat with arm chairs and cushions and curtains, everything that is special. It looks fun, it looks sexy.

I remember being impressed by [William] when I first met him. I am happy to work with him. He has good ideas.

William has helped me learn about the tourists and what it is that tourists like — the

locations, the drinks and the music. We always concentrate on safety first. We make sure the boat is not too high from the water.

My favourite thing about my job is to take care of customers and show them the river, explain things to them such as what’s the Mekong, what’s the Tonle Sap. I also like working on the party cruises. They always have more than two hour cruises. I still like [to] steer the boat sometimes.

In the future we would like to have more boats. It’s not such hard work, maybe sometimes if the weather is bad it is a bit stressful because we have to take care of the boat. But then there is the calm when you are on the water. [Out] there it is peaceful.

To find out more about the morning and sunset cruises email thebutterflycambodia@gmail.com or contact captain Kim on 012 981 559. Bookings are essential.

Morning cruises start at 10am and sunset cruises at 5pm, depending on the season.

AsiaLIFE magazine wishes to express our sympathy and condolences to His Majesty King Norodom Sihamoni, his family and all of the people in the Kingdom of Cambodia on the solemn occasion of the passing of the King Father Norodom Sihanouk.

pub quiz

In the Drink 6. What was originally billed as an “esteemed brain tonic and intellectual beverage” when it first appeared on the market in 1886?

7. What fruit is the basis of Calvados?

8. The letters ABV found on drinks containers are an abbreviation for what?

9. What is Adams Ale? 10. What drink, by European law, must come from the area around the Spanish town of Jerez?

When They Were Young 26

27

4 1 6

Cats & Dogs

11. What animal are the Canary Islands named after?

12. What does an Isle of Man Manx cat not have?

13. Which Dickens character owned a dog named Bull’s Eye? 14. Steven Georgi is now Yusuf Islam. By what other name was this singer known?

15. Who won the 1965 Best Actor Oscar for his portrayal of Cat Ballou?

Depths 98 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

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Heights 16. What was the highest building in the world until 1930?

17. Angel Falls is the world’s highest uninterrupted waterfall.

In what country is it?

18. In which US state is its highest mountain?

19. What is Africa’s highest mountain?

20. Which country’s highest mountain is the Grossglockner?

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pub quiz answers

1. Ratty, Toad, Badger and Mole are all characters in which 1908 novel?

2. What was the title of the song that was a hit for Laurel and Hardy from the 1937 film Way Out West?

3. Which spy character did Michael Caine play in the 1960’s films The Ipcress File, Funeral in Berlin and The Billion Dollar Brain?

4. Which film featured the character Freddie Kruger?

5. What phrase connects a funeral service and the title of a number one David Bowie hit?

21. Which lake is the deepest in the world?

22. The Mariana Trench is the deepest part of the world’s oceans. In which ocean is it?

23. What was codename of Bob Woodward’s Watergate contact?

24. What was the purpose of the IBM developed computer Deep Blue?

25. ‘Smoke on the Water’ is a famous song by which band, who were once listed by the Guinness Book of World Records as “the globe’s loudest band”?

1. The Wind In The Willows 2. The Trail Of The Lonesome Pine 3. Harry Palmer 4. Nightmare On Elm Street 5. Ashes to Ashes 6. Coca Cola 7. Apples 8. Alcohol By Volume 9. Water 10. Sherry 11. Dogs 12. A tail 13. Bill Sikes 14. Cat Stevens 15. Lee Marvin 16. The Eiffel Tower 17. Venezuela 18. Alaska 19. Kilimanjaro 20. Austria 21. Baikal 22. Pacific 23. Deep Throat 24. To play chess 25. Deep Purple 26. William Shatner 27. Christopher Walken 28. Ozzy Osbourne 29. William Shatner 30. Charlize Theron

Take A Bough?

no holds barred