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This book covers it all, from the technical to the creative, and will have you shooting film in no time, whether it’s with an old rangefinder, an inexpensive Holga, or a medium format Rolleiflex or Hasselblad. Interest in film photography has also grown among those who only have experience shooting digitally. Happy shooting!

Aperture ring

Viewfinder

OLYMPUS

Hot shoe

Film rewind knob

LOOK INSIDE

A step-by-step guide to analogue photography

Paul Moon

The MIT Press Massachusetts Institute of Technology Cambridge, Massachusetts 02142 http://mitpress.mit.edu

A step-by-step guide to analogue photography

This book is intended for anyone who is curious about film, whether you need a refresher course or are discovering it for the first time.

FILM IS ALIVE!

CLIC

Paul Moon

FILM IS ALIVE!


Paul Moon

FILM IS ALIVE! A step-by-step guide to analog photography

The MIT Press


Contents 4

Introduction Why analog photography

6

Enjoying the process

8

Equipment

Colophon First published 2017 by MIT Press, 2 Park Square, Milton Park, Abingdon, Oxon OX14 4RN Š 2017 selection and editorial matter, Paul Moon

8 Body of the camera

10

SLR and compact cameras

16

Aperture, shutter speed & ISO

18

Types of 35mm film

22

Lenses

28

Taking pictures

30

The right of Paul Moon to be identified as the authors of the editorial material, and of the authors for their individual chapters, has been asserted in accordance with sections 77 and 78 of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.

Getting started

32

Single exposure

38

Multiple exposure

40

Flash photography

46

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reprinted or reproduced or utilised in any form or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publishers.

Cross processing

48

Flash photography

54

Using the self-timer

60

British Library Cataloging in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library ISBN: 978-0-415-78623-5 (pbk) Publisher's note: Typeset in Trade Gothic produced by Linotype. Printed in Singapore

Developing stage

62 Darkroom set-up

64

Exposure times

80

Specifications

96 Glossary References

98 102


Equipment Body of the camera SLR and compact cameras Aperture, shutter speed & ISO Types of 35mm film Lenses

10 16 18 22 28

The equipment section goes over everything one will need to take some great pictures and develop them their selves. The shooting section covers camera setting from film speeds to f-stops everything one needs to know. Lastly the developing + scanning section involves getting your pictures developed and into a digital format that can be shared with all.


18 / Equipment

Aperture, shutter speed & ISO / 19

Aperture, shutter speed & ISO

Shutter speed (exposure time)

It is difficult to take good pictures without having a solid understanding of aperture, shutter speed and ISO – the three kings of photography, also known as the ‘exposure triangle’. While most new DSLRs have ‘Auto’ modes that automatically pick the right shutter speed, aperture and even ISO for your exposure, using an auto mode puts limits on what you can achieve with your camera. In many cases, the camera has to guess what the right exposure should be by evaluating the amount of light that passes.

Shutter speed refers to the length of time a camera shutter is open to expose light into the camera sensor. Shutter speeds are typically measured in fractions of a second, when they are under a second. Slow shutter speeds allow more light into the camera sensor and are used for lowlight and night photography, while fast

shutter speeds help to freeze motion. Once the light goes past the lens aperture, it then hits the shutter curtain, which is like a window that is closed at all times, but opens when needed. Cameras with an auto mode beside the manual one determine the aperture for the selected shutter speed.

Aperture (depth of field) Aperture is a hole behind the lens, through which light travels into the camera body. The larger the hole, the more light passes to the camera sensor. Aperture also controls the depth of field, which is the portion of a scene that appears to be sharp. If the aperture is very small, the depth of field is large, while if the aperture is large, the depth of field is small.

ƒ / 1.4

ƒ / 2.8

the camera collects more light photos have a blurry background needs faster shutter speed

The aperture is expressed in ‘f’ numbers (also known as ‘focal ratio’, since the f-number is the ratio of the diameter of the lens aperture to the length of the lens). To have a good understanding about exposure and how shutter speed, aperture and ISO affect it, we need to understand what happens within the camera when a picture is taken.

ƒ / 5.6

ƒ/8 depth of field

ƒ / 16

1 / 2000

1 / 500

1 / 125

fast

1 / 30

1/8

moderate

1/2 slow

ISO (film speed) Film speed is the measure of a photographic film’s sensitivity to light, determined by sensitometry and measured on various numerical scales, the most recent being the ISO system. Relatively insensitive film, with a lower speed index, requires more exposure to light to produce the same image density as a more

sensitive film, and is thus commonly termed a slow film. Highly sensitive films are correspondingly termed fast films. In both digital and film photography, the reduction of exposure corresponding to use of higher sensitivities generally leads to reduced image quality.

ƒ / 22

the camera collects less light photos have all objects in focus needs slower shutter speed

100

200

sunny

400

640

cloudy

800

1600

night-time


Types of 35mm film / 23

22 / Equipment

Types of 35mm film 135 is the photographic film in a film format used for still photography. It is a cartridge film with a film gauge of 35 mm, typically used for hand-held photography in 35 mm film cameras. Its engineering standard for the film is controlled by ISO 1007. The term 135 (ISO 1007) was introduced by Kodak in 1934 as a designation for the cassette for 35 mm film, specifically for still photography. It quickly grew in popularity, surpassing 120 film by the late 1960s to become the most popular photographic film size. Despite competition from formats such as 828, 126, 110, and APS, it remains so today and might be like this for a long time.

Negative

Positive

color negative film: Fujifilm Superia 200

black & white negative film: Ilford HP5 400

color positive film: Agfa CT Precisa 200

cross-process of color positive film: Agfa CT Precisa 200

Black & white

C-41 processing good films: Kodak Portra, Ektar 100

E-6 processing good films: Agfa CT Precisa, Velvia 50

C-41 / E-6 processing good films: Ilford, Kodak, Fujichrome

In the case of color negatives, the colors are also reversed into their respective complementary colors. Typical color negatives have an overall dull orange tint due to a color-masking feature that ultimately results in improved color reproduction.

Color reversal film produces positive transparencies, also known as diapositives. Transparencies can be reviewed with the aid of a magnifying loupe and a lightbox. If mounted in small metal, or cardboard frames for use in a slide projector they are commonly called slides.

Conventional black-andwhite negative film can be reversal-processed to produce black-and-white slides, as by Chrome. An acid bleaching solution, the only unusual component which is essential, is easily prepared from scratch.

color negative

normal process

C-41

color slide

normal process

E-6

Cross-processing (also known as ‘x-pro’) is the procedure of processing one type of film in a chemical solution intended for another film. You will get unpredictable and interesting results. For more information go to page 30.

cross process

color negative

color slide


Taking pictures Getting started Single exposure Multiple exposure Flash photography Cross processing Flash photography Using the self-timer

32 38 40 46 48 54 60

The shooting section covers camera setting from film speeds to f-stops everything one needs to know. Here is where you get experimental. The developing and scanning section involves getting your pictures developed and into a digital format that can be shared with all.


32 / Taking pictures

Getting started / 33

Getting started If you’ve never shot film before, or if you’re working with a camera you don’t really know how to use, there are shortcuts to help you get to the gratification of shooting without so many calculations. Obviously, these are shortcuts and do not replace actual learning, but they can definitely helpful for trying out a film camera that you have never used before. Maybe not high noon, but shoot during the day when there’s plenty of light.

3

Lift the film rewind knob slowly, so that you do not break any plastic part and then pull the cover to insert the film

Inserting batteries and film YOU NEED:

• • • •

analog camera two L44 batteries 35mm film enthusiasm

200 FUJIFILM

Most of the time, people think that their analog camera is not working because it is broken or other similar motif but in fact, cameras do not work for the simple reason that they do not have charged batteries inside them. The first thing to do after you buy a camera is to check the batteries and the exposure settings. You can do that with the help of a coin or something similar to unscrew the cap.

4 1

Get a coin and unscrew the cap of the battery holder that is found on the back of the camera. Hold the camera so that used batteries would not fall on the floor.

2

Take your batteries and insert them into the camera in the exact order presented in the image. You must always start with the positive end and then align them so that the polarities complete each other ( + - )

Insert the film into the camera and try to fit the tip of the film in the perforated holes of the roll until it remains fixed into a still position.

5

After that, close the door and wind the film slowly to get it started. Happy shooting!

Technical problems Sometimes it happens to break the film into the camera while loading or rewinding it because it gets stuck into the plastic roll. For more info go to page 93.


40 / Taking pictures

Multiple exposure / 41

Multiple exposure Why are multiple exposures awesome? Because the creative possibilities they open up are unlimited! Plus, once you know some basic principles, they are really easy to do too! Whether you choose to plan out your analogue shots or go randomly with your instincts, multiple-exposed images promise endless experimental opportunities and surprising results that will astound you.

PUS

3

Slowly push the rewind button from the back of the camera in order to keep the frame fixed into place.

CLIC first shot

second shot

H!

4

Wind the film, just like you would do in a normal situation but pay attention to the button. It has to be fixed.

K!

final results

Make a double exposure Don’t give up if you see some blownout shots in your first few rolls; it takes patience and lots of experimentation to achieve excellent multiple exposure photos. Remember to underexpose each single exposure for the best results.

analog camera two L44 batteries 35mm film enthusiasm

YMPUS OL

OLYMPUS

5

Take the second shot for the double exposure but keep in mind the compositional frame of the first one you took. You can try to rotate a bit the camera to get a movement feel.

7

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This is the final result of the double exposure experiment done with a roof grid. Just by rotating the camera, a new structure is created and might be continued with another exposures.

OLYMPUS

in de

Japan

1

50 10

5mm m f=3 a

25

CLIC

IKO 1:3 ZU .

• • • •

5

D

YOU NEED:

0 200 400 8

1st shot

00

Lower the ISO setting by one stop (for example from 400 to 200) if you only do a double exposure picture.

OLYMPUS

2

Take the shot of the first picture with a compositional frame in your mind to interact with the next picture.

2nd shot

6

Similar to step 4, wind the film and stop your exposure process by not pushing the button again. Watch it pop when you wind and you can continue to your next frame.


Glossary / 99

98 / Specifications

Glossary 135 Also called 35mm; the most common film format. 120 A type of paper-backed film used in various medium format cameras. Aperture The hole in which light passes through to expose the film – the lens opening. Aperture is measured in F numbers, the lower the number the bigger the aperture. A high aperture number means a smaller zone of sharpness within the shot. ASA This little acronym refers to how much light you’ll need to expose your film correctly. It stands for American Standards Association, whose photographic exposure system became the basis for the more common International Standards Organization (ISO) film speed system in 1987.

Fisheye lens An extremely wide-angle lens which yields hemispherical images on film, the Fisheye lens is named for the field of vision which fish are believed to have. Cross process There are two types of color film chemistry: C-41 (for color negatives) and E-6 (for color slides). When color slide film is cross-processed in C-41 chemistry, the resulting images have deeply saturated colors and high contrast. Darkroom Literally, a dark room in which you can chemically process film or print from negatives without exposing the photo-sensitive film and paper to light. Double exposure A technique in which a piece of film is exposed twice. Double exposures can result in a dreamy, layered effect, or an upside-down, mish-mash world of your choosing! Expired film Undeveloped film that has gone past its “sell-by-date” – resulting in crazy color shifts and unexpected effects.

Half frame A type of 35mm camera in which the film plane is half its normal width. This allows you to expose twice as many frames as usual on one roll of 35mm film by taking two portrait-rectangular shots where there would normally only be one landscape-rectangular image. Hot shoe The electronic contact point on a camera at which you can attach an electronic flash. ISO speed Controls film sensitivity; the higher the ISO speed, the more sensitive the film is to light. For example: ISO 400 is more light-sensitive than ISO 50. Light leaks White or red streaks on film created by stray light that enters a camera body. While originally accidental, creating light leaks on images is now a well-known technique loved by many photographers.

Auto exposure Found in a number of modern cameras, this is an exposure system that exposes the film correctly every time, without the adjustment of manual settings.

Electronic flash A camera accessory which can add a burst of light to a dark subject for proper film exposure.

B setting This “bulb” mode on certain cameras allows you to keep the shutter open for as long as you want resulting in long exposures and light streak photos.

Emulsion The matte side of a film or paper which is light sensitive. When film or photographic paper is exposed and processed, the emulsion reveals an image.

Long exposure This is an effect achieved by setting a long-duration shutter speed so that stationary objects in the field of view appear sharp while moving elements will be blurred. For best results, practice in low-light condi tions or with a very slow film speed.

Bokeh Refers to the aesthetic quality of the out-of-focus part of an image caused by shallow depth of field.

Exposure The amount of light which reaches your film when taking a photograph.

Pinhole A camera without a lens, basically a lightproof box with a small hole.

F-stop The numbers on the aperture ring that represent the size of the aperture in your lens. A higher f-stop suggests a smaller aperture, which means that less light is coming through.

Redscale A technique of shooting red-orange photos by turning the film the wrong way around and loading the film backwards. The color shift can range from red to a range of warm honey tones.

Bulb Is the shutter setting that keeps the shutter open for as long as you hold down the shutter button.

Shutter speed How long your camera’s shutter stays open; usually measured in fractions of a second. You can adjust your camera’s shutter speed via a dial on the camera body in order to achieve light-streaked photos, correctly expose a scene, or sharply capture a fast-moving object. For example: a fast shutter speed like 1/1000 delivers sharp photos if you’re shooting action photos; a slow shutter speed like 1/30 is ideal for shooting photos in low-light conditions. Slide film A film that yields a positive image when processed normally with E6 chemicals. Vignetting The shadowy, dark corners present on photographic prints which emphasize the photo’s subject and create depth in a photograph.


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