10-ilovefake-claim your fame by cristina elvas

Spring 2009 Issue 12

! E M A F R U O Y CLAIM 1

COLOFON

Fall 2008 Issue 10

Editor In Chief & Art Director Jolijn Snijders jolijn@ilovefakemagazine.com Fashion Director Jordy Huinder

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Cover: Photography Dennis schoenberg Model ASH @ SELECT

Editors Debbie Wester Niels Erik Toren Photographers Petrovsky & Ramone, Jeremy Williams, James Mahon, Roman Goebel, Dennis Schoenberg, Jolijn Snijders, George Mavropoulos, Maria Mastori Contributors Matthieu Pabiot, Maud Cohen, Bogomir Doringer, Marilyn New York, Marilyn Paris, Kid Of Tomorrow Agency Stockholm, Johan Johansson Andersson, Deanna Melluso, Arielle de Pinto, Select Models, Alljan Moehamad, Raül Vázquez, Niko Luostarinen, Eric Elenbaas, Karo Kangas, Brand Models Finland, Fumie Sasabuchi, Mylou, Jean-Paul, Ulla Models, Majid Karrouch, House of Orange, Gallery Zink Munich Berlin, Liselotte van Saarloos, Filep Motwary, Linda Charlotte Ehrl, Lena Petersen, Modelwerk, Lisa Legrand Claim Your Fame Featuring Valentina Vos, Kristina Baker, Sophie Curtis, Simon Nunn, Maria Tasula, Jennifer Cox, Ana Laura Perez, Ninja Hanna, Saga Sigurðardóttr, Jamie Hawkesworth, Ricardo Velmor, Hannah Davis, Sarah Hermans, Dan Elhadad, Petrito Zezus, James Mc Loughlin Column Niels Erik Toren Published by Jolijn Snijders Ilovefake Magazine De Zetter 5, 1521CT Wormerveer www.ilovefakemagazine.com Visit us on Myspace: www.myspace.com/ilovefake

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CLAIM YOUR FAME 04 08 10 22 20 32 34 48 52 62 66 76 82 88 104 110 114 124 128 158 164

Letter from the Editor Intro: Almost Famous This is England Interview with Dennis Schoenberg Editorial by James Mahon Column by Niels Erik Toren Step into the world of Antistrot Sweet Child in Time Fashion Editorial by Jolijn Snijders Filep Mostwary by Debbie Wester Interview with James Mahon Artist Interview: Arnie Arnold Enter The New Kingdown Fashion story by Petrovsky & Ramone Interview Fumie Sasabuchi Do it for the Fame Story by Jolijn Snijders Blast from the Past by Debbie Wester & Niels Erik Toren Interview with Roberta Ridolfi Arielle de Pinto by Debbie Wester Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s All About Me Fashion Editorial by Roman Goebel The Infamous tattoo of Boromir Doringer CLAIM YOUR FAME Special showcase for Upcoming Talent Wild Child Fashion Editorial by Jeremy Williams Next Issue: Hardcore

Right page: Photography JOLIJN SNIJDERS, Model TATIANA @ MARILYN PARIS

The hills were higher when we were young. I remember when i was seven year old someone asked me what i wanted to be when i grew up. Instantly i replied with “rich, famous..and eh.. Something else.” Now, two decades later, Istill would choose riches over being broke, but i am still only rich in my heart and head, not in my bank account. It’s okay, because I love doing what i do, and everything else will follow when it does. Being famous however, is not something i would crave for. Fame comes with a big price to pay, who would want the constant attention, losing your freedom to walk around alone, always having to be aware of your actions, not being able to do crazy or clumsy things, the whole world watching your every move. Giving up your privacy is the highest price to pay. They say that money buys you freedom to do with you want, same goes for fame i guess, but being imprisoned in your big mansion with a staff to serve your every need, isn’t my definition of freedom at all. The upside is ofcourse not having to worry so much, being treated as royalty everywhere, not having to stand in a crowd of smelly strangers in a train, not having to wait for a table in a restaurant o club, never having to deal with ordinary irritations like this. If you are a photographer you sometimes get a little taste for this kind of life. The travelling, the hotel rooms, the parties, the free vodka, the front row seats, the models, personal drivers, the designer clothing, the whole fucking deal and a bag of chips. For this issue i have travelled to Stockholm for the Fame shoot and to Finland as well. While i write this i have just come back from Paris, where I have tasted a bit of this upperclass ifestyle again, after having dined and partied in the best clubs until the sun came up, I am sitting in a local town thinking about what just happened.

As I was walking the black empty streets leading to nothing, I looked at you and remembered, I danced with the devil, as I sold my soul in the twilight city again. Wild at heart, we hear ourselves echoing in the streetlights. There are no people around. We live in the night, like we’re lost in the day. The days that pass by so fast, sometimes are so slow, let’s fast forward to another world. Your eyes are out of control, I can keep you sane. We walk for hours, until I left back home, where I danced out of joy. I want to sleep until the night comes to take me again. Here it’s where my life begins. The kids are dressed fresh, and everything is well, as we are ready take over the world. We dance and kiss, and nothing is real. Until truth knocked me back on my feet, a sharp pain is what I feel. I gaze at the tragedy happening right in front of me, about to burst right on the floor. I rush out, I want out, I’m strung out, while I move forward through the crowd. The strange faces of tonight are a blur as I flee the stairs to solitude, I spin from left to right, I look down, I notice this black hole in my body. Dark fluid starts leaking out of the wound and ruins my latest purchase; a charcoal silk dress from La Fayette. Just as I start to collapse, invisible hands grab my throat and start to squeeze. there goes my life. I need to escape, I feel like a wreck. This ruined everything you are. Stars are crashing down, my soul’s crushing. I try to grab my stuff, when I realize I am a mess on the second floor. The quiet backroom and it’s concrete walls save me, a second ago I was cool. The only strangers here leave an empty impression, I walk up to them in tears, like this is just another day, I try to bum a cigarette. Leaning with my elbows on the railing of the upper floor I look down at the unknown crowd losing their innocence. You are in the middle of this chaos. I turn around, I wonder, can I leave this, and everything else behind me. I want to go home. When it hits me I am stuck in this place, I face up to it and give in to the night. I throw off all shame, hit the liquor in front of me, pour this medicine in the wound, I am pleased I am being cleansed. There’s nothing better than to rinse this dirt away and keep it from perverting me further. I want to drown all of this in spirits. As I slowly start to heal, everything becomes a blur, as we strut around Rue de Rivoli. This is where we lose our soul for good, we love, we forget, we spin around, we fall,... we fade into oblivision. I stumble in to the taxi when the birds are about to wake up. Jolijn Snijders - Editor In Chief

contributors JOLIJN SNIJDERS

Founder / Photographer Growing up in The Netherlands with punkrock kids and bands, Jolijn Snijders lives & breathes rock and roll. At gigs she got handed down countless cut & paste fanzines, flyers and homemade coversleeves. “Everything is independent and DIY, you get inspired by everything around you”. Jolijn wanted to create a similar ‘homemade’ zine, one where upcoming talent and established artists meet, mixing art, photography & fashion. Driven on discovering cool mad artists, spotting new talent became her mission and started Ilovefake Magazine in 2005. After graduating Art Academy she worked in advertising for clients such as Guess and Hilfiger. Now the life-source of Ilovefake, and making a living as a photographer with published work by Celeste, Karl Lagerfeld, Indie, Blend, Ellegirl, Ozon & Neo2 Magazine, etc.

JORDY HUINDER Fashion Vixen

Mad as a hatter Jordy lives and works in Amsterdam as a fashion stylist. During his studies as a Fashion Designer at the School of the Arts in Utrecht, he lived in London where he interned for none other than punkrock queen Vivienne Westwood. After that followed an internship at high fashion glossies ELLE and Marie Claire magazine. Currently Huinder is freelancing as fashion stylist for countless magazines. Next to his freelance job he works hard as the new Fashion Director for Ilovefake Magazine.

DEBBIE WESTER Fashion Editor

Fascinated by fashion, rock, tattoo’s and underground scene Debbie worked for the clothing brand gsussindustries and started a few years later as a fashion-editor for the Dutch program RTL Boulevard. There she devised items that contained subjects like fashion, art, design, music and lifestyle. Wester interviewed and met some of her great heroes like Helena Christensen, Walter van Beirendonck, Viktor & Rolf, Dita Von Teese and Cassetteplaya. Now she’s a freelance fashion-editor for several magazines as NewStyle, CODE and worked in Paris with Macedonian fashion designer Marjan Pejoski.

Alljan Moehamad Artist

Alljan Moehamad Was Born in Paramaribo and moved to Amsterdam at the age of 12. Finishing Graphic Design at Lyceum Amsterdam, and the Royal Academy of Art in Den Haag was a hell of a job for this fucker. Alljan has a passion for visualizing, the love to create is what kept him on track “ART WILL SAVE YOUR LIFE” It’s not a romantic story about how Alljan was kept out of the ghetto, but more about showing people ethical ghetto stuff in there own habitat. “Real emotions trough a dark filter.” For this issue we comissioned him to create the famous and infamous skulls from the past!

PETROVSKY & RAMONE Photographer Duo

P&R Have used Arabia, Africa, Europe and the United States as a decor for their staged work, which captures a unique, raw and eccentric yet elegant world full of atmosphere that is caught in a participating and almost documentary style. Morena Ramone and Petra Petrovsky met while assisting the same photographer, travelling the world they started to create concepts and ideas for shoots and realizing them. Their search for adventure, culture , emotions and experience makes them take the initiative to travel the world and shoot. There work has been publisched in magazines as V-Man, Oyster, Herald Tribute, WWD, Elle, Glamour & VICE to name a few.

NIELS ERIK TOREN Editor / Pose Puppy

As tasty as fresh fruit and as new as tomorrow. Moreover he has travelled half of the known galaxy and he has been in bed with numerous women who were all just as creative as himself - now that’s having high standards! Although he blends in just fine in his current climate; a hot, spicy and impulsive jungle which critics claim to be the fashion industry. He is ready to (d)evolve and enter the realm with yet to be discovered advantages. A world the infamous they call:”the real world”.

DENNIS SCHOENBERG Photographer

German born Dennis Schoenberg moved to London in 1995 to study Film and Audio-Visual Production. Subsequently Dennis completed a MA in Photography at Westminster University in 2000. Dennis then went on to work as a photographic assistant for Rankin at Dazed & Confused, before moving to New York to assist Steven Klein. On returning to London Dennis became Studio Manager for Wolfgang Tillmans. Throughout this time Dennis build up a relationship with i-D Magazine for which he started working as a freelance photographer after having left his position at Wolfgang Tillmans. Since this time Dennis has been working as a portrait and fashion photographer.

JAMES MAHON Photographer

James Mahon is a photographer from New York, who has girls walking in to his studio on a daily basis. He photographs and tapes them in a vivid and delicate way, letting them jump around, dance and walk around in the city for hours. Mahon’s photos and films show you how he reaches into their souls and pulling out that special something, what makes them stand out from the crowd. We interviewed him for this issue on page 22. He also shot a the amazing editorial THE REBEL KIDS WHO RUN THIS TOWN.

FAKE

ALMOST FAMOUS

text NIELS ERIK TOREN photo JOLIJN SNIJDERS

On the edge of fame when it is still expensive; living like a star, and things should be handled with extreme precaution. Everything is still delicate and one fuck-up might kill your blossoming career in its wake. One sniff too much of the glam powder and your credit card gets busted and your rep of being a prestigious member of the infamous nouveau riche might be shattered before you ever got far enough to make into the holy-woods. No slips please, these are stilettos your shining in. A crack in the road, a bite on your lips, a bloody nose, might detract attention from the fact that you are obviously a rising star and could make you the topic of vile mockery. There exists an interesting Dutch proverb on this topic: High trees catch allot of wind. High bitches make an excellent subject of gossip. Know this and don’t get too high until you are able to bear the consequences - like Britney can. Aim high, but know when you have crossed the line – a bit too often. But don’t let me scare you or put you down. Keep your eyes on the road, fixated on the lime light. You will get there. Never stop to try, never stop to dream. Hit the gas and ride your hotrod until you get at the green light, and go for it. It’s out there, the only thing you need to learn is how the fuck you will get a grasp on your fading fame and consume it until you decide you have had enough of the spotlight, the flashes and the endless stream of willing groupies licking your genitals. Some people are destined for fame, it is in their blood and it won’t stay there forever. It’ll pop out, out of every 8

hole of their bodies, until their aura is paralyzing and all of the people who consume their souls, are blinded by the light, and book them jobs or kiss their ass. Maybe you are one of those people. Maybe not, but you wouldn’t know until you’ve tried so hard that you are banned from supermarkets and wanted for blackmailing. So hit the streets, club hard, meet people, spend an equal amount of money like the amount of champagne bubbles you have consumed. Balancing between the mindless partying and still being professional is an art you should definitely master. This is just a small part of the advice I have been offered and found useful enough to write down. An excerpt out of allot of rubbish told to me on a continuous basis by people who should know, because they are on top of the pyramid, or close enough to smell the scent of the filthy famous and more than moderately rich. Interestingly enough, I have found that how closer I come to the top of the pyramid how more you realize that the whole glamorous side of fame isn’t all that positive as it seemed to be on MTV or in the movie theatres. That maybe it’s all a big tease, away from the reality that being famous is a lonely existence full of fear and paranoia. One you can only ride out properly on shit loads of cocaine and booze, just like all stars do anyway. Because the luring possibility that you might one day fall and be shoved off into oblivion is a fear which can in no business be more real, than in show business. But even if this is the bitter truth, I’ll have a go at it, and be arrogant enough to say; I’ll be one of those exceptions that make it worth the try. So, lovely, put on your dancing shoes, because if you dance with the devil, you can’t stop dancing until the music stops. Ride or die.

Model ANTON @ KID OF TOMORROW

FAKE

THIS IS ENGLAND Dennis Schoenberg assisted photography masters such as Rankin, Wolfgang Tillmans and Steven Klein. He’s now quickly following their footsteps by building a solid portfolio. In London he captures true punk rock kids. This hardcore attitude towards his work has already been rewarded by an extensive collaboration with I-D magazine. Please write a short bio, who are you and what do you do? I was born in West-Berlin and came to London in 1995 to study Film and Photography. After my studies I began assisting for Rankin, Steven Klein and Wolfgang Tillmans before I became a freelance photographer myself. When did you start your career, how did you get into it? When I was in college I wanted to do film but soon found out that the other students in my course couldn’t really be asked to show up most days as they were hung over from the night before. So when it came to shooting it would be the actor and I and no boom operator, no set designer, etc. That’s when I changed to photography where I didn’t need to rely on anyone else. After that BA I continued with an MA in Photography, started assisting and began knocking on all the doors to show my work. Then in 2003 Terry Jones saw potential in my work and gave me my first editorials for i-D. 11

How would someone describe your photography style? I’ve been told that it’s calm, inquisitive, honest and emotional. What would be your dream shoot? A dream shoot would be to recapture the romanticism, allure and melancholy of Berlin in the late 70’s. It was a city of limitless possibilities, fashions and ideas and attracted many people including David Bowie, Lou Reed, Iggy Pop, Brian Eno and Nick Cave. Who influenced you in your career? The first fashion photographer I ever consciously came across was Helmut Newton. But that was as a young teenager. It was a weird and sexual fantasy that I did not understand but that grabbed my attention and fascinated me. Once I got more involved with photography I became interested in Joseph Szabo, Bruce Davidson, Bill Brandt and Jeanloup Sieff. Then came the 90’s with Nan Goldin and the boom of the Boston School of Photographers. In addition I would not miss a single film by Aki Kaurismaki or Jim Jarmusch. I was very keen on cinematography and the work of Christopher Doyle in particular. So take all of the above and mix them up and that’s what influenced me. What do you like about Fashion? I suppose it’s important to create your own identity (to be comfortable with who you are and how people perceive you) and the quickest and simplest way is via fashion. Which is a blessing and a curse. Tell me about your upcoming projects? In the past couple of years I’ve invested pretty much all of my time into personal projects and didn’t have much time to do fashion shoots. So I’m really looking forward to shooting fashion again and it ought to take up most of my time from now on. Additionally I’m just starting to make little short videos – music videos and audiovisual poems - sort of. What music do you listen to? I will pretty much listen to anything as I can’t be without music. But do you know that great feeling when you found a record that you just keep playing over and over and over again and you can’t get enough of it? And it gets better and 12

better every time you listen to it? And every song is REALLY good? And you put it on and you have to turn the volume up and the next song starts and you have to turn the volume up even more, and then the third song starts and you have to turn it up more, and more, and more, …and you end up at 11!? Here are my top five albums that currently take priority on my iTunes: Einsturzende Neubauten – Alles wieder offen, Portishead – Third, Fuck Buttons – Street Horrrsing, Beck – Modern guilt, Kammarheit – Asleep and well hidden. What are you most proud of right now? That I gave up smoking. What do your parents do? They look after me – still. Is there always a story behind your photos? What do you prefer? I do prefer to always have a story but unfortunately that doesn’t always happen that way. But it doesn’t really matter as the individual photos themselves can tell a story of their own. In my opinion a photo only succeeds when it is strong enough on its own accord and can be taken out of its story and still be exciting. If it relies on the other images within a story to be strong then it’s not a good photograph. That is what I always try to achieve – to approach each shot as its own entity. Do you work alone or in a team? On projects I tend to work alone. That’s the time when I get to be selfish. Within fashion however I like to collaborate with the stylist and art director. When you work as a team your initial idea has the potential to develop beyond your subjective viewpoint and become much stronger. What inspires you? The usual: Art, music, films and literature. But also people. I always feel I could have done so much more when I look at what other people are doing. But all that’s still to come – I’ve only just started. Tell me something about your neighbourhood. What’s it like to live there? I’ve lived in the same place in Hackney (East London) for nearly 10 years

and nothing ever changed - until recently. In the early days it used to be quite run down and poor with burned out cars and old mattresses in the alleys. I live right by a park and have to walk through it to get to my place. It used to be pitch black at night, the lights never worked. No one ever wanted to come and visit. So we once rang up the council and asked them to do something about it and they told us that they had no money to buy light bulbs. But you should see it now. Not only have we got light bulbs but new street lamps, park benches, painted fences, a public toilet and an open air swimming pool! It’s one of the trendiest places in London at the moment. It’s hard to say if it’s for the better though, the whole character’s changed, including the people. If you could repeat something in your life, what would it be? Well, let’s put it this way: If I could start all over again I would take things less seriously and just have a laugh - make more of a fool of myself. The best and worst thing that could ever happen? The best that could ever happen is that we live our lives with spontaneity, joy and love. The worst that could ever happen is that we continue in our muddle without contemplating an alternative. Stop waiting for others to sort out your life and trust yourself to do it. A few people that you would like to work with? Blixa Bargeld, Maggie Cheung, Charlotte Gainsbourg and The Sons of Lee Marvin. Future goals? To be content. Favorite quote? ‘Live the full life of the mind, exhilarated by new ideas, intoxicated by the romance of the unusual.’ – Ernest Hemingway

FAKE

Photography by DENNIS SCHOENBERG

FAKE

Pete Doherty by DENNIS SCHOENBERG

Photography by DENNIS SCHOENBERG

FAKE

Photography by DENNIS SCHOENBERG

WHEN WE’RE AROUND, WE ARE YOUNG WE ARE FRESH WE ARE THE REBEL KIDS WHO RUN THIS TOWN. photography james mahon

FAKE

rough nights and stuff in between Written by Niels Erik Toren Photo JOLIJN SNIJDERS

Every time I think of something incredibly brilliant to write down for this column, I am in the strangest of situations. Like the other day, I am having a nice and quiet drink in the Costes hotel in Paris when I come up with something – mind you; something beautiful – to write down. And as I contemplate its structure and grammatical embodiment I walk to the toilet, thinking I could sit down on the jar for a few minutes and impregnate this idea so far into that decomposing brain of mine, that it will stay there long enough to give me the time to find a peaceful spot to write it down – by any means. And just as my mind was in the very vortex of this inspirational and highly creative outburst, I come across John Malkovich, who just happens to walk out of the same bathroom I wanted to be left alone in. Immediately my ADD (attention deficiency disorder) kicks in full throttle and before you know it, I am fantasizing; John Malkovich doing lines on the toilet paper dash board (however the fuck you call it), and I forget all about the ingenious shit I just creatively spawned in my head. It’s a real bugger you know fame haunting me at the wrong moment I mean. I didn’t ask this aging old prick (love the guy, but let’s face it, he ruined my perfectly orchestrated creative moment) to walk out of the bathroom all high and stuff, at the precise moment I 32

want to meditate on geniality. And I have moments like these too often, all too similar, disturbed at their height of brilliancy by some trivial starlet. I have them all the fucking time. Fame just wants me to produce low leveled crap, keeping the colorblind man down, once again. Anyway, in contradiction to the last paragraph, sometimes, strange situations fuel my inspiration and are in fact the cause of brilliant shit I write down. And because I am a serious adrenaline addict and possess a highly deviant and rebellious mind, I try to be in strange situations constantly, making my life an ongoing spectacle of weirdness. Although for some this might be a hard thing to accomplish – if you are a boring cunt, that is - I get by pretty easily. And I should thank many fellow freaks for this, outcasts who stood by me in times of need, having pity for one of their own. Paris two thousand and nine was a fitting start of the new year and could hardly be more successful in many ways, except maybe the cash flow, which was incredibly disappointing. But since I am not the only one suffering from the direct effects of the financial crisis, I’ll keep myself from whining about it. I remember running for the train on yet another early morning. It had been a pretty rough night and morning, and the odds of catching the

train while dealing with a humongous absinth induced hang over, were definitely against me. Apparently my mother had made unsuccessful attempts to wake me up, I remember vaguely saying something like:” As if I don’t know when my fucking train leaves”. Where after my mother returned to her bed, quietly cursing that drunken son of hers. I woke up approximately twelve minutes before my train was due to depart and without hesitation started collecting my belongings. I kicked my stepfather out of bed and had a small argument with my dear mother. Goddamn I thought, this was going to be a close one. What followed was a horrid car ride, which dealt with a twelve minutes ride in about four, I finally got on my train just moments before it left, with my step dad in his pajamas spurting after me, hastily recollecting items I had dropped on the way.

Two weeks later, I was in the middle of Paris, hitting the Parisian party scene hard. Real hard I might add. Nothing was done to make it all a more healthy experience or to prevent memory loss. It is safe to say, I lost about five years of my life due to those first three terrific weeks in Paris. And although it was around this time I established the fact I am a failed model, I kept my hopes up, knowing my future is to be much brighter than that slick and unholy money trench I was in anyway. Miss Yeddou, Mango and Noortje had been kind to me, taking me everywhere, introducing me to everyone. It sort of all felt like winning the ‘two minutes all free’ prize in the higher social spheres of Paris, meeting high ranking socialites at a rapid rate. A continuous circus event, with no pauses whatsoever.

And now I am back, well, I am in the train to Amsterdam, fighting with personnel. It is maybe three days ago, I was still enjoying a first class dinner in some extravagant Parisian restaurant, and now I’m being treated like Stalin’s son for chrissakes. I have numerous people shouting at me, mostly staff. But I don’t really care, I am looking through my window, quietly wishing I am back in Paris. Where the bubbles never break and the ice never melts. And then I smile, no worries, the train goes both ways.

FASHION

SWEET CHILD IN TIME photography JOLIJN SNIJDERS styling JOHAN JOHANSSON ANDERSSON models ANTON, ALEXANDER H, AGNES, EDDIE @ KID OF TOMORROW

FASHION

Photo MARIA MASTORI

FILEP MOTWARY 48

His fashionblog ‘Un NouVeau Ideal’ one of the best on the world wide web, containing interesting interviews with designers as Jean Charles De Castelbajac, Bernhard Wilhelm and Rick Owens. But that’s not all. Filep Motwary worked, after he graduated, with John Galliano and Phoebe Philo and launched in 2005 his personal collection of womenswear, in a mutual collaboration with Jewellery designer, Maria Mastori. Now he’s ready to publish his first book with all the big names the fashionindustry has. Interview DEBBIE WESTER Photos by MARIA MASTORI, GEORGE MAVROPOULOS & FILEP MOTWARY

Besides being a talented designer you’re also a blogger, photographer, journalist and artist. How come? “One is linked to the other I guess. Blogging started by chance when Diane Pernet asked me to become the Greek correspondent for her page, A SHADED VIEW ON FASHION. A while later she advised me to start my own blog and so I did. It was something very serious for me due to the fact that I discovered a whole new world. In the beginning my page was only about how I spent my daily time out with friends, which was something not that interesting. I gained readers when decided to make it more personal in a creative way, so I changed my approach by taking photographs and posting long essays on fashion or creating collages and interviewing people. On the other hand I pushed my self in photography mostly because I was almost never satisfied when other people shot my clothes. It seemed that I was never touched. I know I sound like a fascist though. My first big interview was with Jean Jacques Picart, maybe one of the greatest Fashion Consultants in the world. A while later, I was approached by magazines asking me to contribute for a column or to photograph a fashion story… Since then, I have interviewed some of the biggest creative individuals, from Dries Van Noten to Bernhard Willhelm and also people of what we call “Fashion Academia” like Lydia Kamitsis or even Maria Luisa Poumaillou”. You won a competition of Dazed and Confuzed and your first book will be published? Tell us more! “Yes indeed. My photograph was presented in the number 66 issue, October 2008. It was something that I never expected. My submission

was sent for fun over their web- page Dazed Digital and next thing I know it was selected. Regarding my book, it will be out in 2010 and it will be focused on my fashion interviews and conversations with designers, photographers, retailers etc from the international fashion scene. One thing is certain, all the big names are part of it and it makes me very very happy”. How did you start your career? “After finishing my fashion studies in Milan and later Athens, I was offered an assistant stylist position for the Greek Edition of L’Officiel. A year later I realized that probably being behind the process of making clothes was far more interesting than gathering clothes to be photographed. I put together a portfolio and started knocking on the doors of designers that I thought as interesting at the time. My first working offer came from Couture designer Loukia and lasted four and a half years”. Why the interest in fashion? “It was something that came naturally. My mother, who is now my right hand in business, was a dress maker. Our home was all about fabrics here and there, ladies trying their pre-ordered clothes on, music and television. I used to see Castelbajac on TV as a young boy, thinking:” GOD, this is fun. Fashion is fun”. As a teenager I was obsessed with magazines and models but maybe this sounds too cliché”. Where did you grew up and how was it like? “I was born and raised in the southern part of Cyprus, three years after the war of 1974. Although it was difficult, there was also something ro49

FASHION

“I used to see Castelbajac on TV as a young boy, thinking:” GOD, this is fun. Fashion is fun”. mantic about it. Back then I couldn’t realise the silence that separates the Nothern from the Southern part, now thinking of it, I get scared. But was all pure fun, among other kids of my age, riding horses and playing out in the fields till late afternoon, careless.

thing else is in order. So I take her by the hand, dressed like that and take her to a location around the neighbourhood where I find interesting to photograph. I never stop writing, even before going to bed; my notebook is ready to be opened, even to write one word in it”.

Describe your style of fashion design and photography? “This is a question that I find very difficult to answer. My work comes from the inside of me, the mood I am in. Every season I grow more mature and feel more secure about who I am within the new collection I make..or at least it feels that way. Certainly I love women and see them as superior to men. My designs salute femininity and embrace their inner qualities. It’s about the role a woman feels for herself not about how she looks in the outside. About photography, there is nothing much to say because I was never trained to be one, nor I know how to use lights. Everything is accomplished by using instinct and the right girl of course”.

You’ve worked for some big designers as John Galliano and Phoebe Philo. How was it like? “I was an intern for both Galliano and Philo, who was at Chloe during that period. It was a great experience although it didn’t last as long as I dreamed it to last”.

Any dream project you would like to do? “There is a whole list of projects. For now, a video with Hungarian Janos Visnyovszky”.

Your blog is one of the favorites on the WWW. How did you come up with the idea? “As I said before, it wasn’t my idea, it was Diane Pernet’s. At the time I only knew how to send a simple email…”

Most favorite song ever and why? “Many songs: All is loneliness by Moondog, Glorybox by Portshead, Saxophone Song by Kate Bush, Tight Rope by Laurie Anderson… Each title reveals the why”

How does it work for you? One day fashion, other day photography and writing? Or is your mind and work a constant ‘playground’ of everything? “I focus on a collection only once per season and twice a year, during the making of, the process of photographing it, re-code each item, style it for the show and then privately present it to the boutiques and clients. Photography is part of this procedure, although, I almost never shoot any MOTWARY catalogues myself. I do photograph my fittings though. I love it when the first girl comes to put the new collection on. It is the moment when the truth is revealed to me, it’s the minute where I know if the collection has an identity or not, if it is strong enough. When the model becomes the character I had in 50 mind in the first place, then every-

Where do you find inspiration for your collections and photographs? “There are no rules when referring to inspiration. It is something that comes from anything and everything”. Most memorable ‘captured’ moment/ shot ever? “My photograph for the “Same Time Tomorrow” collection featuring Maria Chrysavgi as a model. A photograph that was then used by fellow friend and collaborator Jean Baptiste Biche for a large painting that we gave as the show’s invite card. Two years later, thanks to facebook, I discovered that a Greek “artist” stole the image and presented it as his work in a quite important gallery here in Athens. It was something shocking for my team but also when we called him to discover that he wouldn’t understand or admit his mistake”.

What are your future goals? “To achieve my goals....”

Any favorite or inspiring artist we should know about? “Cypriot Maria Loizidou who does this amazing body extensions out of fabrics and plastic and also Dutch, Iris Van Dongen for her ability of portraying. Her approach is something quite modern yet classic”. Who would you like to work with in the future? “With people who understand the meaning of teamwork, which are polite, giving and open”. Read more on his blog: Un NouVeau Ideal http://unnouveauideal.typepad.com

Photo GEORGE MAVROPOULOS

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MADCHEN OF MAHON JAMES MAHON is a photographer from New York, who has girls walking in to his studio on a daily basis. He photographs and tapes them in a vivid and delicate way, letting them jump around, dance and walk around in the city for hours. Mahon’s photos and films show you how he reaches into their souls and pulling out that special something, what makes them stand out from the crowd. A short introduction, who are you and what do you do? My name is James Mahon, I am a photographer living and working in Brooklyn NY

Where do you live?

I live in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. It is atraditional working class Italian neighboorhood. I am on far side of the BQE, so it is a much quieter section of Williamsburg.

How did you start your career?

I started by assisting Bob Richardson in the later part of his career, after his years of homelessness. He was very very supportive of young people that he believed in, and he really helped me start my career.

I like that your photos and films are about the person, instead of the ‘model’

or of the clothes.. It’s a real approach, like you are soul searching. What draws you to photographing these girls?

I am trying to define what beauty is for me. When I first started, I could not get any Hair, Make-Up or Stylist people to work with me. This forced me to figure out how to try and make beautiful photos without any help. I became very focused on what was beautiful to me, not what was in the magazines. What you see in my photos now is me trying over and over again to define beauty.

What keeps you interested in shooting?

When I shoot I try to allow room for mistakes to happen, in addition to shooting what I know will work. Ninety-Five percent of the time those mistakes do not work out, but every so often something amazing happens. That keeps it interesting. 53

What are your favorite cameras or set up to work with?

I shoot with whatever camera I can borrow or rent, and I like to use only available light.

Do you work alone or in a team?

Mostly I work alone, by choice. However, I love working with people that get what I am doing and really bring something to the shoot that elevates the photos. I recently did a fashion story with a stylist that really understood what I was doing and just made the look better. He did not try and change what I do. The results were amazing.

Do you see life in greater detail than others? I think I notice things more, yes.

Who influenced you?

Bob Richardson and Robert Pollard

What music do you listen to while working?

I am obsessed with Bonnie “Prince” Billy, he is in constant rotation at the moment.

What are you most proud of?

I am proud that I have been able to carve this little niche for myself in the photo world among so many talented photographers. Famous people you would love to shoot? Irving Penn What does Fame mean to you? I think Fame is something that should be considered carefully. There seems to be a scale that the more famous you become, the more likely you are missing the mark creatively. Of course, this is not always the case, but it is something to pay attention to. Any cool artists that we need to check out? Steve Keene, he has been around for a while but I rediscovered him recently.

I am working on an idea right now where I take the same photo of every girl that comes in the studio, basically like a naturally lit passport photo. None of the girls have hair and make up done. Some of the girls are famous and some are not, new faces, commercial girls, editorial girls. All of them are models.The idea is to display all of these photos side by side to really look at how we define beauty. The results are fascinating, because when you see them side by side, they look so different.

What would be your dream job?

Ideally I would love to be able to do editorial shoots where magazines just send me clothes say “Go for it, I can not wait to see what you do”.

What keeps you up at night?

Abbey Girl, my dog, bugging me to let her out back to relieve herself.

Artists that inspired you?

Irving Penn, Julia Margaret Cameron, Nan Goldin, Guided By Voices, Jackson Pollock

The best day in your life until now?

Not long ago, my wife, who had been feeling a little strange, told me she was pregnant. It is a bit cliche to say this was the best day, but absolutely true.

Future goals?

I would like to be shooting advertising jobs in the future.

Famous last words?

“Do you honestly think that you could light better than God?” -Bob Richardson

Who do you work for, or what are your favorite projects or clients? 55

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ARNIE ARNOLD Interview JOLIJN SNIJDERS Photos by ARNIE ARNOLD

Have you always wanted to be an artist? I have always placed great importance in my visual surroundings. I grew up with a family who loved art and antiques and I have been surrounded by beautiful things most of my life. I have a over sensitive visual perception, its hard walking down my local streets looking at all the beige houses I just want to paint them all exciting colours! I noticed from a young age that not everyone saw things the way I see things. I have ease with harmonizing colour and objects in there environments. How did you start your career? My career started the year 1996, while strolling through the Art Gallery of NSW in Sydney with friends. Wandering the gallery I responded to the works with notions towards expressing ideas that were not being represented, I felt they were missing like a chapter from a book. I left the gallery inspired to paint, went straight home 62

and pulled out the house paints. With some of my father’s paint brushes, an old real estate sign I started painting and have not stopped. Please tell me about your latest work, what was the process and idea behind it? I have a fascination for all things old, mid to late 20th century that is. The discarded materials I find are media, old text books and ‘how – to’ manuals, popular texts of past days that capture the mood and trends of a time forgotten, amongst other things, which have a useful value and object interest. The inspiration for my new paintings that will be on show this weekend are mixed concepts of collage, digital media and painting sourced from this trash / treasure adventures. Describe your average week for us? Coffee, Op Shops, late nights at the studio, book shops, eating out in Asian food courts, sign making, fatherhood, art openings, long hot baths, eating

mangos and morning swims in the ocean at Bondi Beach. How would you describe your style? I tend to use a candy coded palette, in an undefined style. My style is driven by wanting to produce original material and searching varied influences to create newer realities. I like to create realities that cross fantasy and romanticised imagery. Who do you work for / favourite projects or clients? I’ve done a lot of collaboration with fashion labels, including Ksubi and Insight. I have made chandeliers out of sneakers for Dunlop.. I’ve customised hand painted shoes, for Melissa footwear from Brazil and tend to do a lot of mural work around Sydney. I had a cameo appearance on MTV, pimp my kettle project of 4 artists 2 hours and one kettle! We had to turn a house hold kettle into an art work and that was real fun! I tend to have a talent for innovative unique ideas and don’t

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mind calibrations and commercial work for interesting brands and companies. What are you most proud of until now? I have to say my wife giving birth to my baby girl Arabella. My greatest work of art to date. My second greatest achievement would be sticking through the hard years of being an artist. What are your favourite subjects / themes and why? I tend to like to distort reality in subtle ways. Bending the truth within an image and changing it to a point where it’s a new concept. In my latest series my themes are about nature, recreation and lifestyles. My new works incorporate images of sensual exotic orchids appearing as spirits floating naturally within the photographic image. The orchid images are hand painted giving a deliberate contrast to the visual photographic surface. The viewer can contemplate the eerie other world feeling and at the same time the beauty of the colourful imagined orchids suggesting ideas of a surreal and imaged world on one’s own terms. What would you do if you weren’t an artist? Probably be a yoga and meditation teacher or a film director. Where do you find inspiration? Inspiration mainly comes from second hand book shops, auction houses op shops, found objects, peoples personal discarded belongings, such as letters and objects, which tell stories of times gone and give glimpses into a personal life unknown. Visiting foreign city’s I love the company of expressive, eccentric people. Artists that have inspire(d) you? Takashi Murakami I say a show of his in Paris at the Cartier foundation WOW., The Sacred Teachings of J.R. ‘Bob’ Dobbs by the sub genius foundation it’s my bible to modern lif=e . Different artists for different reasons. 64

Mark Ryden for his subtle warped realities and his old world charm. Too many others to mention I’m more influenced by the global movement in all aspects of creative culture. The morphing of or cross pollination of Design, Architecture, and fashion but I am firmly grounded in the Art world. I think we are in or coming out of a creative renascence the last ten years there was an explosion of ideas. The Internet and the movement of images around the world in seconds, exciting. The best day in your life, what happened or what could it be? Drinking a fresh coconut on a beach with a dreamy sunsets rounded by loved ones. What has been your favourite project until now? Setting up Forbidden City art studios in Sydney being surrounded by interesting and inspired artists and utilizing resources for future expansion. Where do you live and what’s your neighbourhood like? I live in Paddington in Sydney the largest Victorian village in the world still intact. Full of tree lined streets with quaint coffee shops and pubs on every corner. Quaint! What are you working on now? My next series of work will be paintings of all the amazing women in my life. The women, who have influenced me, loved me and inspire me. Future goals? I’d like to travel, exhibit, to be a part of large art fairs, collaborating with established, interesting artists and slowly expanding in associated art genres. I’d like to live and work in New York, Japan, Buenos Aeries, Argentina and Europe more info: http://www.arniearnold.com.au

ENTER THE NEW KINGDOM Photography by Petrovsky & RAMONE / eric elenbaas www.petrovskyramone.com Styled by MAJID KARROUCH / manja Otten PM

Photography Assistant Mylou Styling Assistant JEAN PAUL

Make up & Hair Lisselotte @ House of orange Model RUTGER DERKSEN @ Ulla Models

Black long Jacket & Skirt stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s own, Earring Jean paul gaultier 67vintage

Opposite Page: Grey jacket hugo bossÂ Had pieceÂ Jean paul gaultier vintage

Jacket by Hugo Boss

This Page: Necklace Jean paul gaultier vintage Opposite Page: Black long Jacket & Skirt stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s own, Earring Jean paul gaultier vintage

This Page: Jacket by Hugo Boss Opposite Page: Black long Jacket & Skirt stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s own, Earring Jean paul gaultier vintage

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FUMIE SASABUCHI Fumie Sasabuchi originally studied at the Tama Art University, Tokyo until 2002 and later at the Munich Art Academy. In 2007 she was the first to part-take in Galerie Zinkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Artist in Residence Programme, where an artist from the gallery resides in Harlem, New York for three months. In her most recent solo-show Fumie deconstructs the perception of a perfect physique and plays very deliberately with the subject of death. Text & Images Courtesy Gallery Zink Munich, Berlin Artwork FUMIE SASABUCHI

Galerie Zink Berlin will exhibit works by Fumie Sasabuchi (*1975, Tokyo),from 1st November to 20th December. Fumie Sasabuchi originally studied at the Tama Art University, Tokyo until 2002 and later at the Munich Art Academy under Norbert Prangenberg. In 2007 Fumie Sasabuchi was the first to part-take in Galerie Zinkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Artist in Residence Programme, where an artist from the gallery resides in Harlem, New York for three months. In her most recent solo-show Fumie Sasabuchi deconstructs the perception of a perfect physique and plays very deliberately with the subject of death. Death and our own mortality are taboo topics in our culture. As a result, we issue ourselves with euphemisms to reshape a parallel world. The transience of life combined with different symbols of vanity are demonstrated in contemporary art. Death is personified as skeletons, skulls and various other adjuncts 76

of ephemeral imagery. Exponents express commerce today more than previous canons of beauty and over-reaching themes such as body modification and obsessions with beauty in unacceptable dimensions. The works of Fumie Sasabuchi are neither pure provocations, purposive fractures with common agendas nor moral references. Many object to her work. Superficiality is an amendment through expansion. Fumie Sasabuchi makes the taboo visible and forces us to confront our own mortality. As with a scalpel, Fumie Sasabuchi uses a ball-point pen to freely explore an underlying surface, therefore creating hybrid body images in which promotional aesthetic is fused with material naturalistic anatomical study. Fumie Sasabuchi comments on how our skin naturally protects our body. The clay skulls which appear in the exhibition resemble, by rote, forms of once living objects.

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;Fumie Sasabuchi unlocks the repressed visual world and reveals a new concept of beauty.â&#x20AC;? - Bernhart Schwenk, Curator at the Pinakothek der Moderne, Munich 79

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The observer should perceive it as mirror image which up to today, emblematizes the most intense momentariness of our existence. The paintings and drawings which feature the grim reaper with or without a scythe, refer to eccentric poses interpreted from the ‘death dances’ of the 14th and 15th Centuries, minus the moral teaching imagery. The manipulation of the modern visual world represents, in the 21st Century, an accepted magnitude. However, there are still very clear boundaries with regards to what is allowed to be shown.

“The subject of death remains as one of many taboos in Western culture. Fumie Sasabuchi unlocks the repressed visual world and reveals a new concept of beauty.”

DO IT FOR THE FAME. photography by jolijn snijders @ eric elenbaas styled by Niko Luostarinen Make up KARO KANGAS 83

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M O R F T S A L B A As we were wondering about what’s going on with some of our favorite, famous cult figures while making this issue, we decided to fly two of our reporters to purgatory, where they had the rare chance to interview some of the most influential dead souls. Here’s what happens when our editor Debbie wester had a little talk with the late Paus Paulus II, pin up Bettie Paige, and the style queen herself, Coco Chanel. Interviews by Debbie Wester & Niels-Erik Toren Collage Raül Vázquez / www.raul-vazquez.com

. T S A P THE

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BETTIE KICKIN IT AT MICKEY D’S

Bettie! How are u doing today? “A bit strangled, fucked up and dizzy of all the booze I was drinking behind the counter of Mc Donalds where I work nowadays. When I woke up this morning I thought I got hit by a truck but after a good cup of coffee and a sigarette i’m feeling better already”! Tell me, how is it to be dead at first and then noticing you get a second chance in life? “Well, couldn’t believe it happened! I was really like; wow, I’m a schizophrenic or in a bad movie or something.... but no! My friends were really in shock off course to see me back again. Thank god I wasn’t buried already...” So, still busy at the age of 85? “What do you think! After I lied in the hospital and died from my pneumonia and heart attack somebody needs to make the hard cash now and going back to fetish and filming isn’t an option when you’re old. Since I’m quite a fan of junkfood and knowing that Mc Donalds was looking for someone behind the counter, I applied and started the day after already”.

It’s great here, nice people, colleagues and free food. What more does a person need in life”? Don’t you miss the good old bondage, pin-up period? “Of course, I do.....especially when I see the so called ‘next generation’. I mean, don’t get me wrong about Dita von Teese or something but it’s not the same. Too much for me, too perfect. This whole ‘burlesque hype’ isn’t what it should be.” Any future goals? “Mmm, not really....I don’t have any goals in live for now and to be honest, I don’t really care. Just be healthy and enjoying? Or maybe meeting a cute older guy to spent the rest of my live with that’s ahead of me...yeah, that would be nice!”

But Mc Donalds? “Yeah, what’s wrong with that? My body isn’t in the same shape like I started in the 50’s and as a said before, I LOVE JUNKFOOD!

“I mean, don’t get me wrong about Dita von Teese ... But it’s too much for me.”

illustrations ALLJAN MOEHAMAD

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PAULUS SINS TRUE POLISH STYLE My apalogy dear pope, I almost stepped on you.. “It’s not Pope, Paulus Paashaas is the name. A new life, a new name hahha. I’m so happy to be back. Oh look, my new family!” Huge! How are you doing? “Crazy, great...From being one of the most high respected persons, leader of the Roman Catholic Church and head of state of Vatican City, to a joyful rabbit...I’m so happy about it! Nobody tells me what to do anymore... Enjoying sex, my god..if you see my new family now, all my little ‘kids’ running around, I can almost cry. Though I do miss the travelling a lot. I’ve seen so many places, met great people, kissed the ground all over the world...too bad that’s over”

exacerbate Third World poverty and problems such as street children in South America so. If I think about it, I should have done something about it..” Future plans? “Quote: I had a sweet tooth for song and music. This was my Polish sin but now, hahah...I’ll live by the day! Just enjoying everything around me, no future plans for me anymore” Famous last words? “Freedom consists not in doing what we like, but in having the right to do what we ought.”

How are the reactions? “Well, some oldies from the Vatican are a bit jealous I guess. I mean, I had the choice when I had heart failure. God asked me in heaven, I can reincarnate you but you will return as a rabbit. I thought, why not? It’s joyfull..” If you look back, any regrets? “The gay-rights activists and others that criticised me for maintaining the Church’s unbroken opposition to homosexuality and same-sex marriage just wasn’t good. And critics have also claimed that large families are caused by lack of contraception and

“I’ve seen so many places, met great people, kissed the ground all over the world...too bad that’s over” 93

“I live now... Maybe there is no tomorow.”

COCO’S TEENAGE ANGST Coco CHANEL is reincarnated into a girl after her death, 14 years later she’s all grown up into a regular teenager, hitting puberty hard. From Queen of fashion to anti-fashion? “Yeah, fashion is stupid, waste of money and bad for society and economics. Fashiondesigners are the most pathetic creatures ever...and there are just no good ones these days”. Wow, you dislike Karl Lagerfeld and Chanel? “Yes, for sure...I don’t understand why all these sad women want to buy this Chanel shit for amazingly high prices. What’s so special about it? Tell me...And then the symbol. All over the bags, purses, shoes, clothes. No, I hate it..I buy my stuff online or secondhand. Much better, more special and cheaper”. You’re 14, tell me more about your life?

I see one of your favorite perfumes is still Chanel Nr.05? “Uhhh, yes...what’s wrong with that? I mean, it’s just perfume, nothing else. The smell reminds me about a period in life, that’s all. I love memories” Favorite artist and musician? “I love, love, love Marilyn Manson. His performance, attitude, everything. Yeah, if I ever get a boyfriend he should be like him. I saw ones the documentary ‘Demystifying the Devil’ about him, really impressive. Now he’s busy with his movie ‘Phantasmagoria: The Visions of Lewis Carroll’, cannot wait to see it!” Future plans? “I don’t believe in the future. Thinking about tomorrow, next year or whatever, is for dummies, I live now... maybe there’s no tomorrow. That’s how I live and I can recommend to everybody..”

“I’m still at school but I hardly go and want to quit as soon as possible. Off course my parents are not happy about it but who cares. If you look at the world nowadays with all these ‘high educated’ people it’s not getting any better: money problems, wars, crisis...everybody is just being so selfish. I hate it when people tell me what to do, how to live my life....I can take care of myself”.

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LOCKED AND LOADED After Debbie, our editor Niels Erik Toren kicks in the door to the press room, ready to meet Bonnie & Clyde, Rock legend Kurt Cobain the writers Oscar Wilde and Truman Capote and none other than the notorious serial killer Ted Bundy.

smoke was filling up the room. Fuck I thought, this is serious, here they are, a pack of hellish bikers ready to rip me up. But as the smoke cleared I was happily surprised to see that my first guests had finally arrived.N.E: Good morning miss Bonnie, sir Clyde

So I’m in this pressroom right, a vague, dusty and torn up chamber. The typewriter I am using to type out this extraordinary story had its best times long ago. I arrived in this room this very morning with great expectations and my best suit had been dusted off specially for this occasion. An occasion that called upon me to interview all these famous dead people. And yeah, this is an incredible opportunity, and I admit that in my time I have finished some extraordinary work, but this is probably one of those high peaks that will never come again – that is, if we believe the old bugger in the sky of course. The chair I was sitting on at the time seemed just as dead and worn out as the guests I was expecting, and I nervously played with my pencil while the waiting slowly ate my courage away. They were already twenty minutes late, and to be frank, I was a little bit afraid that the Devil wanted to lay one of his vicious tricks on me, where he would lock the door and send a dozen demonic Hells Angels to penetrate my every hole until the end of times. It was definitely the wrong moment to think of worst case possibilities like these, I was getting sweaty and dangerously paranoid. It took me a minute more of waiting before I was seriously contemplating ringing God and calling the whole thing off. At the precise moment of this ugly thought an enormous blast occurred – which seemed to be associated with an impact against one of the walls - and my chair exhaled its last breath as it shattered on the greasy concrete floor. Whilst I was busy standing up, I noticed a vast amount of

Bonnie: Top of the morning to you, mister.

N.E: Please take a seat. Clyde: We’re fine over here, thank you. N.E: Okay let’s get this show on the road… Why didn’t you just take the door instead of driving your 1934, Ford Fordor Deluxe Sedan, through the wood carbon wall? C: Now don’t get wise mister, you wouldn’t want me to unload one of my pistols in your inner pocket, would you? N.E: Of course not sir, I meant no disrespect. Uhm let’s get on with the questions, shall we? Where do you guys live nowadays?

B: Yeah, but we like to travel around, and this flaming pit of evil just gets boring after a while, plus we have an awful lot of competition over here, there are no coppers, saints or angels to waste and believe me you aren’t much of an outcast here if you’re a vicious and evil coldhearted killer. N.E: Oh, right, I see. Uhm, well what about reincarnation? I heard loads of villains are choosing going for that option right now, ever since rumor had spread that Adolf got to be George W! B: We currently have some legal issues down here, we hired these lawyers from the upper regions and they currently make our deaths not worthwhile, acting as the devil’s advocate, they couldn’t hold up against an appeal from the Almighty himself that if we were to be reincarnated, we would only be able to come back as… C: maggots… N.E: I see… uh, tea anyone? Coffee?

B: I am awfully sorry for Clyde’s response mister , he’s a bit on edge lately. Well, we are dead! so we don’t really have a home, but I guess you can say, we like it hot. N. E: Hmm, right, Any future plans? Wedding, anything like that? C: We are carefully planning our comeback, but I am afraid it’s harder to break out of where we are now, than it is to break out of an high security penitentiary.

“Why didn’t you just take the door instead of driving your 1934, Ford Fordor Deluxe Sedan, through the wood carbon wall?”

illustrations ALLJAN MOEHAMAD

COBAIN VS. WILDE

Suddenly I overheard sirens in the distance and the noise seemed to be approaching in a vicious tempo. The atmosphere got nastier, we stood across each other, me just off one end of the table (carefully maneuvered myself to be able to duck underneath the table when things got even uglier) and the pair just on the other side, near the rear of their medieval Ford automobile. The sweat was on me again as I thought of next worst case scenarios and I contemplated running away whilst screaming like a violated teenage girl who had been just touched up by a pack of Evil Knievel lookalikes. But I decided - probably for the better - to refrain myself from such an act of cowardice and just pass them my car keys so they could move on to different dimensions hastier. There was no communication after this, and they merely took the keys, nodded and ran off. Great, I thought, now I need to text a friend to pick me up, or use the hellish public transportation. Before I knew what happened Kurt and Oscar were staring right at me through the fresh breach in the wall, both looking quite bewildered at their mutual arrival. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m still sure, the call sheets I send them had the right times on them - since they were supposed to arrive one after the other. But what can you expect from dead people anyway? N.E: Oh, uh, hi guys, ...come on in have a seat. Oscar: Good god, what happened here! Couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t you just use the door?! And what is this long haired goof doing here? I thought you had explicitly requested to see me alone?! Kurt: Hahaha, the gap in the wall looks grungy, I like it, but what is this queer, blabbering about? Oscar: Excuse me?! I...! N.E: There is a perfectly healthy explanation for all this, someone must have forged the call sheets, which caused your arrival times to be synchronized. Sir Wilde meet mister Cobain, vica versa. Kurt: Hi there. Oscar: Hmm.

N.E: Gentlemen, please take a seat and make yourself comfortable. K: Okidoki, and Oscar, don’t think I’ll sit on your lap just to make you comfortable, hah! O: The rudeness! You vulgar clowns clearly have no respect for great minds such as myself!

“I have written many brilliant pieces in heaven, which our Lord and Savior himself has read and spoke about favorably and with a respectful kind of amusement.”

N.E: For chrissakes Kurt, go shoot smack or something, leave the old man alone. So, Oscar, tell me, what are you up to these days? Still writing controversial material which tends to alarm people of your rather bisexual or homosexual nature? K: hehe. O: Well, you could say I have been busy, I have written many brilliant pieces in heaven, which our Lord and Savior himself has read and spoke about favorably and with a respectful kind of amusement. N.E. That sounds great! The big G himself! Reading your stuff! *Kurt Yawns* Oscar: Well, what did you expect from a person of such high stature? N.E: Yeah, right, anyway, Kurt, what about you? Have you been busy orchestrating some grand grunge revolution up there or what? Writing some songs? Playing some tunes on a broken guitar with a needle in your arm and a bitch wife by your side? K: I’ve been at it for sure, played some songs up here for the locals, popes, latter day saints and stuff. They seemed to be having fun. It’s really hard to get a shot around here, but I was never on drugs as much as the media thought anyway. I’m trying to stay away of murderous blonde bitches most of the time, because although I like it here, I would rather have killed myself and be down there rocking out, while I surf the lakes of fire… Oscar: Degenerate pig, you don’t deserve heaven! Taking the Lord’s name in vain in such a spoiled fashion!

FAKE sciously tried to trigger, she was aiming for more basic instincts, like the intrinsic pre-programmed ‘run’ mechanism...

TED’S ACID STAMPS Although I would have wanted to get to know them more, the situation was getting too tense. It was just waiting for something bad to happen, like teapots they were boiling up, and I wasn’t quite ready for tea, I wanted some sanity for god sakes. Nobody ever told me dealing with dead people could be such an energy draining thing, and I sort of feel bad for the gypsies down the block now. I shushed them out of the room, which caused Oscar to fall into a fit of uncontrollable rage (he clearly felt me shooing him out was disrespectful, old folks bitching…). Despite Oscar still shouting my tits off, I asked Kurt for his email address. Kurt was off, humming a depressive monologue as he climbed the steps of heaven. But Fucking Oscar wouldn’t leave, prattling, shouting allegations at me which seemed way out of proportion, so I called the D downstairs and told him to send some homophobic demons to run the poor bastard amok. Then I settled myself in the corner of the room, I kneeled down while I named my right hand Hank and cried for a while. Did that last stronghold of sanity finally fell? Those last shattered pieces of humanity, were they really pouring out of the aching holes this day had incited? Ted: Excuse me mister but although they called me a low leveled piece of shit, you seem more pathetic than me. Goddamnit, just met the bastard I thought, a probable hero of some sort, who the fuck was this clown anyway? And why did I put myself in such a position of potential humiliation on such a big day? Get your shit together you old whino, you’ll get out of this dimension soon enough and gravity will pull you back to ordinance. 100

N.E: Oh, fuck, I wasn’t aware you were here already, I’m sorry you had to witness that, I just had a pretty rough day! Please do have a seat sir Bundy! T: A rough day! A rough day! Wait until you see what I’ve got stashed away in my trunk! Talking about rough days! N.E: Hehe, yeah right lets start off with... uh... Let’s just take some drugs shall we? It is important to note, that however I gave up on drugs a long time ago, I seriously felt the need to flee from reality. Moreover because then at least I would have the option to blame the considerable drug use for my conversations with the dead. It seemed all fair at the moment, but looking back on it now; I had no idea what kind of ride I was on. I remember my bosses’ careful approach when she gave me the assignment, she seemed weary and full of a kind of unexplainable pity and shame at the time. She briefed me in on the details in such uncontrollable and unordinary ways, I had no idea what the whole job was about when she was finished with her rapid and confusing monologue. Furthermore I didn’t quite comprehend why she was trying to act so unemotional (and doing such a shit job at it), which confirmed my suspicion that she was struck by the decision of the magazine’s sponsors’ to give the assignment to me. Her apologies didn’t make any sense either, I was too drunk to understand any of it and decided to blame it on pure jealousy. The kind of mean grinned one which tries to put me in a position, where I feel some kind of weird empathy, that it was me and not her who got the job. And ooh, I was wrong, it wasn’t empathy she uncon-

Clearly my mind was going a zillion miles an hour, and thoughts were racing through my head on ramming course like go-carts driven by trailer trash. Meanwhile at the scene, I had snorted a few lines of angel dust along with my new buddy Ted. And I felt pretty goddamn good. It wasn’t until… T: wait here, I’m going to get some acid from the car. … Ted left to the car and I was left alone with my notes and another half a gram of Charlie, when I went through the notes my boss had passed on to me. ‘ Ted Bundy’, interesting stuff I thought, ooh, what’s this? “ Theodore Robert Bundy… was an American serial killer… Typically, Bundy would bludgeon his victims, then strangle them to death… impulsive killer… “So what’s one less? What’s one less person on the face of the planet?”… My first thoughts after reviewing my notes, were probably something like:” Fuck me running! I need to fucking bail”! I couldn’t put them down to paper more accurately. But it all changed when Ted returned with a nice collection of what seemed to be postal stamps drenched in acid. I knew I couldn’t try to run away from a villain like this, according to my notes he once declared:” I have known people who...radiate vulnerability. Their facial expressions say ‘I am afraid of you.’ These people invite abuse...” N.E: Hey, so Ted. Uhm, did you see my car parked outside? T: What? No, I didn’t, look at this beautiful collection of stamps right here! Hahahaha N.E: Yeah Ted, eh… It sure is a VERY nice collection of stamps. But I’d better check up on my car first! T: No way, you’re going to drop some acid with me first and then, I’ll get my camera from the trunk and watch you trying to open the door and check on your car… ahahahha! N.E: hehehaha, sure I’ll take one of your stamps! They seem tempting!

“Typically, Bundy would bludgeon his victims, then strangle them to death… ” 101

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Capote nodded at Ted and then looked straight at me again. Was it so obvious that I was tripping? Did I really have my both hands down my underpants, I couldn’t quite recall.

TRUMAN CAPOTE Fuck, so how was I supposed to run away all high on LSD… in the right direction? Then the situation got even more out of hand when Truman walked in, all out of the fucking blue. It seemed unthinkable at the time, and almost a shade of unnatural. Total confusion was upon me and Ted, who were just in the wake of our horrid LSD trip. The chaos theory was playing with us. But after a moment of revision; I was quite glad to see a face here that didn’t belong to a criminal doomed to the eternal torments of hell. What was next I thought? What would Truman Capote think of two acid freaks reminiscing overdosing on of the most known hallucinogenic drugs of our time? Would he freak out and disappear once again from the unknown (to me) dimension he had just travelled from? Or would he sit down with us, light up the freedom pipe and drop some stamps himself? Who could know? The situation was about to break wide open, and I was up for it, no more horrid thoughts of being locked up in this madman’s trunk, bleeding to death, waiting for him to strangle me to death. A savior was close and I could clearly recognize one in Capote. But then, would he recognize the interviewer from the mass murdered? Capote: Well what the heck boys, what are you doing out here? N.E: I am glad to see you came a little bit earlier mister Capote, I would like you to meet Ted, Ted Bundy…

“A savior was close and I could clearly recognize one in Capote.”

Ted: Ah! More friends on visit! That’s great… The urge to run away came quite unexpectedly, but it was something that had to be done. It wasn’t after; I was positive I could see something shiny coming from one of Ted’s pockets, and I swore I could clearly see it was the neat sharp edge of a ritual dagger of some sort, but then again I couldn’t locate his hands or limps because I was tripping my nips off. But, the animal instinct - my boss had unconsciously wanted to trigger - kicked it, skipping first, second and third gear as I jumped over Capote, who was all the more surprised seeing me, his interviewer in such a state of disillusioned angst. Sometimes I think I could clearly hear Ted laugh in the distance as I ran off like a rabbit hunted down by various kinds of dangerous mammals, or that I could hear definite cries of help from the poor bastard I left him with, an Idol of mine anyway. But at the time I figured those lost souls are dead anyway, they couldn’t kill each other even if they tried a million times over, and that in such a place, between two crazed dead folks (different from each other, but crazed nonetheless) there is no place for an hopeful soul like mine. So, while dripping all sorts of body fluids symbolizing fear, and being paranoid as fuck that the bugs were on me, I was still happy to be on my crappy biopro-life climate saving economy class seat with no alcohol within a heavens reach. I had made it out of that ‘in between’ kind of place, where the sun always shines and flowers always grow and murderers, perverts and degenerates are being trialed at any hour of entire eternity, living happily amongst those middleclass fuckers who cheated once, or sold dope when they were in high school, or were too good to be in heaven. And when I woke up, completely naked in front of my front door, with an acid stamp still in my hand, I never thought it may have all just been a dream or some weird acid frenzy, a psychotic breakdown or psychosis immediatelus, because some questions are not meant to be answered and some things are not meant to be thwarted with, such as my own goddamn faith. Maktoob. 103

FASHION

THE REAL KIDS ROBERTA RIDOLFI’s wonderful work charmed me from the minute I saw it in on the pages of independent fashion magazines such as Baby Baby Baby, Dealer, Nylon and Preen. What sets Roberta Ridolfi apart is the tongue in cheek, “I like working in fashion, I think it can leave you a lot of freedom and allows you to be very imaginative.” She says. The way she captures her subjects is young and playful. “I like my photos to be spontaneous and not too planned. I try to capture something from the people Im shooting and normally the story comes together by itself.” Here come the real teenagers, and not the polished models we normally see in fashion magazines. 104

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Who are you and what do you do? Roberta Ridolfi, born in Rome, live in London since 99 and I’m a photographer. When did you start your career, how did you get into it? I started taking pictures shortly after I moved to london, I was studying philosophy at the university and my uncle gave me an old nikon he had bought in the 70’s and hardly used. I started taking pictures because I had this amazing old camera and wanted to learn what to do with it. I dont know what happened but after a while I decided I didnt want to study philosophy anymore and I went to study photography instead. How would someone describe your photography style? Normally people that look at my photos say they are very fresh...I hope that’s a good thing... What would be your dream shoot? Having time to document someone’s life I feel inspired about, that would be my dream shoot... Who influenced you in your career? I think music and being in London were my first influences...I had a proper obsession with Kurt Cobain when I was

growing up so I guess he was a great influence too... What do you like about Fashion? I like working in fashion, despite make up, hair and all that stuff... I think it can leave you a lot of freedom and allows you to be very imaginative. Tell me about your upcoming projects? I’m going to do a fashion story for NYLON mexico and VICE magazine next and taking photos of a really cool french girl as part of my personal work. What music do you listen to? Lately I’ve been listening to Moldy Peaches, Sonic Youth, Bob Dylan, Deerhunter, Jesus and mary chain, The Cure.... Mainly older bands What are you most proud of right now? To be honest, I’m not too proud of myself right now! Is there always a story behind your photos? What do you prefer? I like my photos to be spontaneous and not too planned. I try to capture something from the people Im shooting and normally the story comes together by itself... 107

Do you work alone or in a team? I tend to work alone most of the time or with the same people. I see my work as a personal thing so I dont like to get too many people involved...I like to style my photos whenever I can. In this way it’s only me and the model and it feels more natural and relaxed. What inspires you? Places, people, movies, songs, 70’s and 80’s photographs, nature... Tell me something about your neighbourhood. I live in a place called Newington Green, it’s nice and quite...and green! If you could repeat something in your life, what would it be? Nothing, I’m happy with how things have turned out!

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The best and worst thing that could ever happen? I can only think of the worst... I eep having nightmares that someone would steal all my cameras in front of my eyes and I can’t do anything... A few people that you would like to work with? Sonic Youth, Cat Power, Chloe Sevigny, Kate Moss Future goals? Spend time in Japan and America and have a dog... Favorite quote? Don’t think twice, it’s alright... More info: www.robertaridolfi.com

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FASHION

SASA ARIELLE DE PINTO

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Twenty-three year old Arielle de Pinto graduated from Concordia University’s Fine Arts program in May 2007. She was chosen as a Gen Art Fresh Faces of Fashion accessory designer for 2007 in New York and was a sponsor-selected participant for Ideal, Berlin 2008 before participating in Rendez-Vous Paris the same year. Her treatment of metal as fiber produces a body of work with considerable weight and brawn, yet yields visually delicate and supple works. While precision and form are essential, de Pinto adopts a consciously unrefined approach in finishing each piece, always exposing a few chain “threads”. Interview Debbie Wester Photos by Martin Thacker

How did you ever got interested in (jewerly) design? “Total fluke, I developed a technique and felt I had to run with it. I mean, my mother always told me she thought that I could possibly end up doing jewelry, but she had lots of confidence in my general ability. I definitely never went to school for it”. Why the interest in jewelry and not in fashion, art or....? “Honestly, I think this is my fascination with jewellery. I try not to bring anything into my home unless I can wear it or it has a particular function. I am pretty in love with accumulating clothes, just fun and unusual things. I would probably drag home a lot of junk, but i cannot justify it unless it has a function (and providing me with ornamentation in and outside of the house counts as a function). It’s a default thing”. Describe your way of designing and style? “I think i’m really laissez-faire until someone else attempts input and realizing I’m a control freak. Just because it appears relaxed (sloppy, at worst) does not mean there is not a level of obsession involved. I am ademently against watching someone fuss over things like rolled up sleeves or doing things like spending an hour straightening their hair. I like to keep

things more or less natural, when it comes to designing and with pretty much every other aspect of life”. Where did you grew up and how was it like? “I grew up at the very edge of Toronto. It’s boring and you need a car for true comfort. Most people have lots of space in their house, there are a lot of chain restaurants but also funny local businesses if you know where to look. It was neither woodsy nor totally urban. I could get to downtown toronto in approximately an hour (which has its own charm, and was exciting enough when I was a teenager) but if I took a long walk with my dog we would go through a schoolyard and then a power field, and then cross the “pickel barrel plaza”. How did you come up with ‘knitted’ jewelry? “I was constantly knitting and crocheting, constantly working with chain, constantly printing, just always doing things with my hands. I was bound to work it together at some point. I was just really drawn to chain as a material, probably because I was looking for fabric trimmings. Had I been frequenting jewellery supply shops and silver markets, I would have been attracted to the only rubber material. It just stood out to me when I was immersed in a program that focused

on textiles, that is just restlessness I suppose”. Tell us more about your great art piece, the mask you designed. It’s quite dark, surrealistic but also fun somehow? “The masks are really an ongoing series, there are three that exist right now and a good many pieces of others that need assembling. They just started from my own amusement. I was so conscious of how extremely feminine and delicate the technique could look. I could be making lace but I’m just not into only that. I love lace, but really I was trying to push my medium. The features of those masks are always inspired by someone. One of them, with the mustache was a bit of my dad, the teeth of another by Shelly Duvall, the eyelashes of another subconsciously by Aloysius Snuffleupagus. But off course it’s difficult to see direct relation”. Any new projects or exhibitions? “There’s currently a show on in El Paso, Texas, some masks that I made at the Stanlee and Gerald Rubin gallery. What inspires you when designing? “I get ideas when I am just making things, if I don’t act on something quickly it’s very hard for me to main111

“The features of those masks are always inspired by someone. One of them, with the mustache, is a bit of my dad.” 26

tain inspired. Sometimes making the first mark is the hardest part, sitting down and focusing. Then everything comes forward and I cannot produce as quickly as wished..-)”. Favorite place to knit? “I actually crochet, it’s just a little different, I used to do it everywhere, all the time. Now I restrict myself to my studio or at a friends’ house. Actually I find I focus best when there is someone else around doing something that could be completely unrelated. I’m lucky that what I have to do most of the time allows for me to interact with others still. All I really need is good light. Armrests are a luxury. Any favorite or inspiring artist we should know about? “Ummm plenty?! Right now I can’t stop staring at Nobuyoshi Araki’s photos, they have been inspiring me for some new pieces”. Who wears your jewelry? Anyone famous? “Yes, but I don’t really keep track. People are always telling me about celebrities wearing my stuff but I never remember. I love seeing people in the street wearing my designs, it makes me blush”. What are your future goals? “I love what I am doing right now but to 112

hire more people to take part of the production would be great. A realistic goal at this point is to be able to do a drawing or speak with someone about an idea or work and just handle the important pieces over to them”. If you could be a famous personality who would you like to be and why? I’d rather have the power to melt through walls, travel through time, fly and not have to breathe than to be a famous personality. I think that famous people aren’t really that far away if that’s really what you want”. If you weren’t a designer what would you be? “I’d still be in school or traveling somehow”. Anyone special you would like to work with in the future? “That comes in time and happens naturally. Most of the people I keep close in my life inspire me, and most of the times they seem to be equally into my work. For the upcoming season I am doing a small collaboration with Anntian, a label from Berlin. For a long time I was in love with their work because I am crazy about hand printed and painted fabrics. It looks like they have so much fun doing it! I was perhaps even slighty jealouse, because I am quite passionate about printmaking and have done it barely since I’m working on my jewelry line”.

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Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all ABOUT me. Photographer Roman Goebel / www.romangoebel.com Styling Linda Charlotte Ehrl / www.lindaehrl.com

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Cashmere pullover LALABERLIN pants BY MARLENE BIRGER socks AMERICAN APPAREL blue shoes RUPERT SANDERSON leather jacket vintage, scarf stylist’s own.

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This page: Jacket SCHERER & GONZALES, Tights A.F.VANDEVORST, Socks AMERICAN APPAREL, Hat stylist’s own. Opposite: Jacket KOSTAS MURKUDIS, Corsage SCHERER & GONZALES, Orange keyhanger MALENE BIRGER, Black key hanger Y-3, Fur stylist’s own.

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Coat and headband DESIGNERS REMIX COLLECTION Dress BO VAN MELSKEN, belt MALENE BIRGER Fur, hat and boots stylist’s own

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pants SCHERER & GONZALES, fur coat vintage, blouse BY MALENE BIRGER, ocks AMERICAN APPAREL, shoes SHOO, gloves HAUTNAH, hat stylist’s own.

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This Page: Fur stylist’s own Opposite: Jacket KOSTAS MURKUDIS, corsage SCHERER & GONZALES, orange keyhanger BY MALENE BIRGER, black key hanger Y-3, Black Legging & socks AMERICAN APPAREL, fur & skates stylist’s own

Hair & Make-up Artist Lena Petersen / Viva Style Model Isabelle Sauer @ www.modelwerk.de Photographer assistant Marcus Paarmann Retouching Czech & Partner 122

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THE INFAMOUS TATTOO OF Bogomir DORINGER Interview DEBBIE WESTER Photos BOGOMIR DORINGER Tattoo drawing on request of Bogomir Doringer by Dejan Kaludjerovic

You’re a multiple talent: artist, director, designer and photographer. How come? “It is my passion. When the whole need for creative work came I could not share it with anybody, I had to do the whole process by my self, and I did. Depending from the issue I was busy with, I was choosing the medium that felt the best. It stayed like that. Now I want to learn more and develop some new mediums”. Three words to describe yourself.. “On my business card it says immigrant, artist, fashion designer. Somebody recently told me that I am much more a nomad then an immigrant. I said fine, hopefully more to come. Defining things is risky sometimes, so I would prefer to escape it” You grew up in Belgrade, Serbia during the war...How did this affect you in person and work? “Amazingly! I have to admit that I adore my childhood in Yugoslavia (these days known as Serbia). I could never achieve such a content and full life experience in any other country. After coming to Amsterdam I can claim this even more easily. Living in a protected space is admiring as well, since it’s something that I’ve never experienced before (trust in social system). But the content, knowledge and inspiration that came out of the mess in Yugoslavia, is my security and “gold”. This mess produced my need to express myself and move towards creative work and critical art. Since I am in love with my work, I have to love or hate the past that brought it as well. I could never be ignorant towards it”.

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Do you approach or see art and fashion in a different way because of your background? “In the war period values are different. Post-war period is even worse. My understanding of fashion was always different. I was never interested to have bunch of fashion addicts wearing my clothes and approaching me with comments like NICE, BEAUTIFFUL etc. Because of the fashion industry this two words lost meaning when you hear them. For me fashion was the perfect way to criticize the society I grew up in. It was a trick to slap the face of the new so called ‘jet-set’, that came out with money from the war. Doing fashion in that period, in order to glorify this big ugly industry, would be a pact with the devil. Now, as a graduated artist, that’s not my purpose. I have bigger responsibilities”. If you could be a famous personality who would you like to be and why? “I would not choose any other personality. Mine needs a lot of more attention and work to be done. It is much more fun dealing with unknown that known. I am sick of pop stars and media to be honest. All this noise about fame is fun when you are young but it should stop around that same age. I think everybody should threat their own personality as the most famous one. Perfect example is the movie “Being John Malkovich”. Tell me more about your latest project ‘Fashion and Despair’ and Natasha Kampush. Where did the idea come from? “Already when the whole scandal about

Natasha Kampusch came out I was astonished, I was still a student back then. Her written statement (or at least presented to us as such) was just so inspiring and it had the similar twist to one of my favorite movies “The Night porter”. Natasha, a very strong female character, is the victim admiring the kidnapper, same as Charlotte Rampling with her NAZI sadomasochistic relationship with a former Nazi SS officer played by Dirk Bogarde. What I liked about Natasha is how she changed the roll of victim in the media. A year, or two later I was invited by curators from Austria to investigate the influence of politic uniforms after 1945 in Austria, on the crowd. The final result was an exhibition at the Museum quartier in Vienna, called the “Fashion and despair”. At the same time a second story came out, this time it was about Mr. Fritzl’s secret. This story was just pure horror and disgusting. Natasha was the first person to give the comment in public about it and referring to the Nazi past of Austria. She was at that moment starting her talk show, which was given to her after all the media booming. Placing her as a talk-show ‘host’ was somehow strange and I decided to investigate it”. You made a tattoo about her. Why the tattoo, it’s quite shocking? “Tattoo is one phase of my project called the “Fashion and despair”. Tattooing is about loosing control, giving your self to the stranger who leaves the trace in your skin forever. It’s painful and there’s blood as well. The whole process observed in close up is related to the sex act, rape to be more precise. In my work, I often place the roll of

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bad guy in order to tell the story. I decided to take the roll of a common person of my age, under the influence of national media and living in Vienna, and pick the person to celebrate. For this occasion I requested Vienna based artist Dejan Kaludjerovic to translate Natasha Kampusch’s photo from her childhood. In his work he’s dealing with the use of children for fashion campaigns, the way how children are presented and often place in adult rolls. His work in some way provokes and is very strong and precise. By placing the image of a young Natasha Kampusch by Dejan Kaludjerovic on my skin, I’m pointing out the trauma of her youth that should never be forgotten”. What do you want to tell people with this story? “This project is done in 4 phases, each phase stands alone but together it’s one story. After 2nd World war, Austria tried to wash the Nazi past image by supporting the movie ‘The Sound of music’, so actually using the fabrication and human nature of forgetting to start a new life. This is legal! In the same way they use fabrication to replace the image of Natasha Kampuch in media. I do not question how impressive she is as a character, I don’t know her. I am dealing with Natasha Kampusch as a brand who got, with full support of Austrian elite, huge attention and insisting. In my project I’m placing Redcap and wolf in Austria, because the story about Natasha and her kidnaper is a story about Redcap and wolf. I am criticizing the media and questioning in which way this decision will influence the audience. Something is weird in the landscapes of Austria and even more in the media. The wolf that we use to run from, will now maybe live with us happy forever. This story is pointing out a much bigger scandal and global problem; problem of trust in media”. What are the reactions on this project so far? “Most people react with heavy breathing and saying that it leaves big impact on them. Tattooing is the most shocking element of it. My body became a moving exhibition. Everybody wants to see it and know more about Natasha’s story. It will be presented in Sweden in May”. You work on more political projects like the ‘Balkan syndrome’. Why so political? The project that I’m nominated for during the Venezia biennale in 2009, is called the “Balkan syndrome”. It is directly related to the NATO and UN use of DU(depleted uranium) weapon in the last 20 years but more to the Italian solders who came home from Balkan

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with symptoms of cancer and leukemia. Nobody in these big forces thought that these solders needed explanation about what kind of weapon they were working with. Serbia was bombed with this weapon. When I was visiting my family I heard this story in a form of gossip, as well it was supported with confirmation from my mother about the higher rate of cancer among young people. She’s a medical worker so she wouldn’t lie. Back in Amsterdam I realized that I had to investigate this. Very soon something that was a gossip became a truth and it was becoming more and more complex. Fashion in this case is showing how uniforms, 2nd skin and Italian solders body are evidence of mistake of global politic and how unfair this whole game is. It’s maybe the most complicated project till now and it becomes more and more political because of the fear of truth in each country who’s involved”. You’ve been selected for quite some awards. Is it helpful for a young artist like you? “I started getting awards at the very early age of 16. Awards are coming from networking, people you know and like your work. Also they will nominate you if they just like your look or when they have some interest in you, or if somebody told them to do so! If your work is great they’re happy to have you in their machine, so you can make some money for them. After you get awards you get more networks and since this is the system we’re living in, I guess it helps”. Ever thinking of going back to Serbia? “At this moment I do not see my self in Serbia, but actually not in any specific country. I travel a lot and there’s no such place as home for me yet. Every country has something that I miss and like, at the same time so many things that I don’t like. I enjoy the idea of being a shark; if I stop I will die. Not sure in what kind of animal I will mutate by the time after all this Depleted uranium in the air, but I like that my choice at this moment is nomadic life”. If I’m famous... “I will have to hide..........”

“The mess produced in Yugoslavia was my need to express myself and move towards creative work and critical art.”

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For our Claim your Fame! feature we asked young artists and photographers to send us their work. Anyone who conrtibuted had the chance to get their work published in Ilovefake. It was fun to see what crazy cool ideas were coming in on a daily basis. Here are our favorite upcoming talents to keep an eye on!

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This spread: Photography VALENTINA VOS, 22, Netherlands

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Photography Jamie Hawkesworth, 21 , London

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Photography Jamie Hawkesworth, 21 , London

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Photography SIMON NUNN, 17, LONDON

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Photography SIMON NUNN, 17, LONDON

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FAME!

Photography Ninja Hanna Model Saga Sigur冒ard贸ttr

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FAME! Illustrations ANA LAURA PEREZ, 25 ARGENTINA

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Photography JENNIFER COX, 24, SPAIN

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Photography JENNIFER COX, 24, SPAIN

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This spread: Photography MARIA TASULA Model lAURI KOPIO, both are 18, FINLAND

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Photography SOPHIE CURTIS, 18, ENGLAND

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Photography SOPHIE CURTIS, 18, ENGLAND

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This Page; Illustration KRISTINA BAKER Opposite Page; Illustrations “They are coming to get you!” by Ricardo Velmor 23, Mexico

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Photography MARIA TASULA Model lAURI KOPIO, Both are 18, From FINLAND

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Photography JENNIFER COX, 24, SPAIN

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Photography JENNIFER COX, 24, SPAIN

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Photography HANNAH DAVIS, 19, London

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Photography HANNAH DAVIS, 19, London

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FAME!

Photography SARAH HERMANS, !8, Belgium

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Photography SARAH HERMANS, !8, Belgium

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FAME!

This Page; Photography dan elhadad 19, PARIS, model CYPRIEN @ SUCCESS Opposite Page; Photography dan elhadad, Model CLEMENT CORRAZE

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This Page: Photography Petrito Zezus, 31 GREECE Opposite Page: Photography JAMES Mc LOUGHLIN, 17, Ireland

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I’VE NEVER LOST CONTROL Photography by Jeremy Williams Styled by Ai

Make up & Hair Deanna Melluso for MAC @ Factory Downtown Model Anastasia Khodkin @ Marilyn NY 158

Denim Shorts LEVI’S, Scarf STYLIST’S OWN159 (VINTAGE)

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This Page: Leather Vest WAYNE, Bikini SMACK, Socks AMERICAN APPAREL, Shoes GIORGIO BRUTINI Opposite: Fur Coat & Top WAYNE, Shoes SEYCHELLES

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Top VINTAGE PAGODA, Shear Tights ANNA SUI, Glasses DR. PEEPERS

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This Page: Hoodie by MERAUDER Legging AMERICAN APPAREL Opposite Page: Shirt SHATTERED 164 REALM Legging H&M, Boots Dr MARTENS

NEXT ISSUE:

HARDCORE!

Photography & Styling JOLIJN SNIJDERS @ ERIC ELENBAAS Make up & Hair LISA LEGRAND @ AIRPORT AGENCY Model LUCYNA @ MARILYN PARIS Special thanks Matthieu PabioT & MAUD COHEN

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www.ilovefakemagazine.com

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